Boardsesh climb generator models
Small models that write climbs for standardised LED training boards, for the experimental climb generator in the
Boardsesh mobile app. The app downloads a board's files the first time you
open the generator on that board, checks them against that generation's manifest.json, and keeps them on the
phone.
There are two generations, each in its own folder:
v2/: every board below. A climb writer plus a grader.v3/: Kilter Original and Tension Board 1, for now. It adds a "classic" quality token to the writer, a realism critic that ranks down climbs that don't look human-set, a reach safety net, and a check that rejects near-copies of existing climbs. The app has a v2/v3 switch on those boards so the two can be compared on the wall. Details:V3.md.
Training code: ml/climbgen.
Boards (v2)
Each folder in v2/ is one board layout, named <board>-<layout id> after the layout IDs in the board catalogue.
| Folder | Board | Training rows | Grader error | Real grade inside the shown range, V0–V7 / V8–V11 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
kilter-1 |
Kilter Board Original (12x12) | 126k | 0.99 V | 84–86% / 80% |
tension-9 |
Tension Board 1 | 40k | 0.96 V | 82–86% / 79% |
tension-10 |
Tension Board 2 Mirror | 24k | 1.05 V | 84–86% / 79% |
tension-11 |
Tension Board 2 Spray | 19k | 1.08 V | 82% / 73% |
kilter-8 |
Kilter Board Homewall (10x12) | 24k | 0.91 V | 85% / 78% |
moonboard-2 |
MoonBoard 2016 | 50k | 1.09 V | 90% / 80% |
moonboard-3 |
MoonBoard 2024 | 18k | 1.07 V | 90–91% / 84% |
moonboard-4 |
MoonBoard Masters 2017 | 49k | 1.38 V | 88–89% / 90% |
moonboard-5 |
MoonBoard Masters 2019 | 33k | 1.24 V | 88% / 81% |
The two Tension Board 2 layouts share most holes but bolt different holds into them, so each has its own model. The four MoonBoards are different hold sets on one 11x18 grid; their holds are numbered by grid cell, and they have no foot-only role.
The MoonBoard graders give wider ranges than the others (about 4.5–6 grades on Masters 2017, Masters 2019 and 2024, against about 3.5 elsewhere), and read the easiest climbs (6A+, about V3–V4) up to a grade high, because most MoonBoard climbs sit at the bottom of the scale.
Grader numbers are from climbs held out of training and tuning. "Grader error" is how far the grader's middle guess is from the climb's crowd grade, on average. The last column takes the range the app shows for a climb (for example "V8–V10") and counts how often the climb's crowd grade falls inside it. It's given separately for easier climbs (V0–V7) and harder ones (V8–V11), because hard climbs are rarer and the grader is less sure of them. The ranges aim for about 80%.
Files
v2/manifest.json every board's current version, file paths and SHA-256
v2/<board>/<version>/weights.bin the climb writer: a small transformer, int8 weights
v2/<board>/<version>/grader.json the grader: a probability for each V-grade, so the app can show a range
v2/<board>/<version>/model-meta.json the board's holds and positions, hold roles, angles, keywords, tensor layout
v3/manifest.json the same, for v3
v3/<board>/<version>/weights.bin the climb writer, trained with the quality token
v3/<board>/<version>/grader.json the grader (v2's)
v3/<board>/<version>/critic.json the realism critic, tied to its writer by SHA-256
v3/<board>/<version>/geometry.json the longest reaches and gaps real classics have, per grade and angle
v3/<board>/<version>/known-climbs.bin every known climb's holds, for rejecting near-copies
v3/<board>/<version>/model-meta.json as in v2
Paths in each manifest are from the repo root (v2/..., v3/...).
A retrained model goes in a new version folder (a date) and its generation's manifest.json points at it; phones pick it up on
their next open and delete the old one.
Data
Trained on the public nightly board snapshots Boardsesh publishes (dataset docs): listed climbs with at least 3 ascents, one example per climb and angle. The climbs and grades are created by each board's climbing community.
Kilter, Tension and MoonBoard are trademarks of their respective owners. These models and Boardsesh are not affiliated with or endorsed by Aurora Climbing, Moon Climbing or any board manufacturer.