Patent Description:
Hair generally can be straight, wavy, curly, kinky or twisted. A human hair includes three main morphological components, the cuticle (a thin, outer-most shell of several concentric layers), the cortex (the main body of the hair), and, in case of higher diameter hair, the medulla (a thin, central core). The cuticle and cortex provide the hair strand's mechanical properties, that is, its tendency to have a wave, curl, or kink. A straight hair strand can resemble a rod with a circular cross-section, a wavy hair strand can appear compressed into an oval cross-section, a curly strand can appear further compressed into an elongated ellipse cross-section, and a kinky hair strand cross-section can be flatter still.

The primary component of hair is the cross-linked, alpha-helix protein keratin. Keratins are intermediate filament proteins found specifically in epithelial cells, e.g. human skin and hair, wool, feathers, and nails. The α-helical type I and II keratin intermediate filament proteins (KIFs) with molecular weights around <NUM>-<NUM> kDa are embedded in an amorphous matrix of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) with molecular weights between <NUM> to <NUM> kDa (<NPL>); both intra- and intermolecular disulfide bonds provided by cystines contribute to the cytoskeletal protein network maintaining the cellular scaffolding. In addition to the disulfide cross-links ionic bonding or salt bridges which pair various amino acids found in the hair proteins contribute to the hair strand's outward shape.

It is known in the art that hair can be treated with functionalized silicones which deliver one or more cosmetic benefits, such as conditioning, shine and UV protection as well as color retention. Typically, these silicones are physically deposited on the fiber surface (cuticle) and therefore responsible for the outward appearance of the hair. They can be removed partially or completely by repeated washing processes. While the deposited silicones considerably improve the surface properties of hair, i.e. smoothness and friction, they do not substantially impact the shape, the mechanical properties and the release properties of the hair.

Alternative hair treatment methods are available, but these often involve the use of harsh and regulated substances.

Traditionally, aldehyde based formulations for a permanent hair shaping and hair strengthening were developed. Most frequently formaldehyde is used for this so called Brazilian keratin shaping method (<CIT>). The underlying principle is the crosslinking reaction between formaldehyde and keratin based amino and amido groups (<NPL>) or between formaldehyde and -SH groups (<CIT>).

Mixed esters based on glycerol, fatty acids and succinic acid are widely used as emulsifiers in food related applications (<CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>). These mixed esters based on glycerol, fatty acids and succinic acid were also proposed as lubricants (<CIT>, <CIT>). They are also known as emulsifiers in cosmetic formulations (<CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>). Mixed esters based on glycerol, phthalic or terephthalic acid and succinic acid yield crosslinked polymers for electrical insulations (<CIT>, <CIT>).

Surface active esters based on alkyl/alkenylsuccinic acid and glycerol are used as additives for lubricants (<CIT>), in cleaning formulations (<CIT>), as rust inhibitors (<CIT>) and for textile coatings ((<CIT>).

Glycerol <NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-tris(methylsuccinate) is known as an insulin stimulant (<NPL>; <NPL>; <NPL>).

Esters of ethoxylated glycerol and succinic acid are described in <CIT>.

Glycerol - succinic acid esters are described in <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>. The can be used in photo (<CIT>) and agrochemical formulations (<CIT>).

Hyperbranched glycerol - succinic acid copolymers for controlled delivery purposes are also described (<NPL>; <NPL>; <NPL>).

Composites using glycerol - succinic acid copolymers as intermediates are described as well (<NPL>; <NPL>).

Esters of diacetyltartaric acid with glycerol are known as food additives (<CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>).

These diacetyltartaric acid glycerol esters are also known in encapsulations (<CIT>) and in plastisizer formulations (<CIT>).

Mixed esters of tartaric acid with fatty acids and glycerol are also known as food additives (<CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>).

They were also proposed for other applications, i.e. resins (<CIT>), finishes (<CIT>, <CIT>), alkyd formulations (<CIT>, <CIT>), lubricants (<CIT>), photo (<CIT>) and cosmetics (<CIT>).

Tartaric acid glycerol ester were proposed i.e. for resins (<CIT>, <CIT>), for the modification of fibres (<CIT>, <CIT>) or as intermediate for emulsifiers (<CIT>).

Si-O-C linked silicone-amino acid condensates for cosmetic applications are described in <CIT> and <CIT>.

<CIT> and <CIT> describe Si-C- linked amino acid modified silicones. <CIT> and <CIT> describe aspartic acid modified silicones.

<CIT> describes aspartic acid modified silicone derivatives bearing a cyclic amino acid structure.

<CIT>, relates to the preparation of amide ester carboxylic acids or their salts for use in cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair.

<NPL>, discloses various oligoethylene glycol carboxylic ester and amide derivatives. <CIT>, discloses resin reaction products of carboxyl terminated <NUM>,<NUM>-polybutadiene with epoxides and acid terminated difunctional aliphatic alcohols.

<CIT>, discloses a composition for improving a condition of damaged hair comprising <NUM>, <NUM>-Diaminoethane dimaleate (<NUM>, <NUM>-DAEDM) synthetic agents, or <NUM>, <NUM>-Diaminopropane dimaleate (<NUM>, <NUM>-DAPDM) synthetic agents.

There has been a need for efficient compounds for the treatment of fibrous amino acid based substrates, especially hair which can be synthesized in a straight forward and cost efficient way, which are easy to formulate and easy to use, yielding long term stable formulations even in the presence of other performance ingredients and which are useful for strengthening of hair, for hair color retention, for hair color enhancement, hair color deepening, for hair color protection, for shaping of hair, i.e. the curling and straightening of hair, for hair conditioning, for hair smoothening or softening, for hair straightening, and for improving manageability of the hair, in particular for improving the combability of the hair. In particular, benefits regarding the retention of artificial hair colours without the usage of strongly irritating auxiliaries should be achieved.

The present inventors found that new polycarboxylic acid compounds and aqueous compositions comprising the same are suitable to satisfy the above need. The present invention accordingly provides new polycarboxylic acid compounds, aqueous compositions comprising the same, cosmetic compositions comprising the same, in particular, hair care compositions, and their use for the treatment of hair, and a process for the treatment of hair comprising the use of said cosmetic compositions, which polycarboxylic acid compounds can be synthesized in a straightforward and cost-efficient way, are easy to formulate and to use, and are useful for strengthening of hair, for hair color retention, for hair color enhancement, hair color deepening, for hair color protection, for shaping of hair, i.e. the curling and straightening of hair, for hair conditioning, for hair smoothening or softening, for hair straightening, and for improving manageability of the hair, in particular for improving the combability of the hair. In particular, the new polycarboxylic acid compounds and the aqueous compositions comprising the same avoid the usage of strongly irritating auxiliaries.

In accordance with the present invention, a compound of the formula:.

The compounds of the invention are in particular useful for the color treatment of hair, which preferably comprises all kind of treatments involving hair coloring or hair color, e.g. applying hair color, deepening, enhancing or protecting hair color, retaining of hair color, etc. The compounds of the invention are in particular also useful for the shape treatment of hairs, which shall mean all kind of treatments that have an influence on the shape of hairs, in particular, hair strengthening, hair curling, hair straightening, generally improving the manageability of hairs, as outlined in more detail below.

Salts of the compounds of the invention may include for example an alkali metal salt, for example a sodium or potassium salt, an alkaline earth metal salt, for example a calcium, magnesium or strontium salt, or an aluminium or a zinc salt, or an ammonium salt derived from ammonia or from an organic primary, secondary or tertiary amine having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, such as ethylamine, diethylamine, triethylamine, ethyldiisopropylamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, dicyclohexylamine, dimethylaminoethanol, diethylaminoethanol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, procaine, dibenzylamine, N-methylmorpholine, arginine, lysine, <NUM>,<NUM>-ethylenediamine, N-methylpiperidine, N-methylglucamine, N,N-dimethyl-glucamine, N-ethyl-glucamine, <NUM>,<NUM>-hexanediamine, glucosamine, sarcosine, serinol, <NUM>-amino-<NUM>,<NUM>-propanediol, <NUM>-amino-<NUM>,<NUM>-propanediol, <NUM>-amino-<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-butanetriol, or a salt with a quarternary ammonium ion having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, such as tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra(n-propyl)ammonium, tetra(n-butyl)ammonium, N-benzyl-N,N,N-trimethylammonium, choline or benzalkonium. The salts of compounds of the present invention can be prepared in particular by reacting the compounds of the present invention with the appropriate bases via a variety of known methods.

The groups F are of the formula selected from:.

wherein the bond marked with the asterisk bind to a carbon atom of R<NUM>.

The groups F can be also depicted as:
<CHM>
wherein the dotted lines bind to a carbon atom of R<NUM>.

The preferred group F is *-O-C(O)-R<NUM>-C(O)OH.

In case R<NUM> has an asymmetric structure two isomers can be formed if the underlying dicarboxylic acids
<CHM>
react with a compound providing the moiety R<NUM>, and such isomers are included in the scope of the inventions, even though they are not expressly mentioned.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the optional substituents of the groups R<NUM>, R<NUM> and R<NUM> are selected from the groups consisting of hydroxyl, amino and halogen, preferably hydroxyl and amino, and the number of the substituents may be up to <NUM>, preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, whereby R<NUM> contains one or more groups -O-, and is substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, n-, iso-, or tert. -C<NUM>-C<NUM>-alkyl, C<NUM>-C<NUM>-alkoxyalkyl, C<NUM>-C<NUM>-cycloalkyl, C<NUM>-C<NUM>-aryl, C<NUM>-C<NUM>-aryl(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkyl, C<NUM>-C<NUM>-alkylaryl, C<NUM>-C<NUM>-alkenyl, C<NUM>-C<NUM>-alkenyloxyalkyl, which optionally can be each substituted by hydroxyl and halogen, and which optionally can contain one or more ether groups (-O-), preferably hydrogen or n-, iso-, or tert. -C<NUM>-C<NUM>-alkyl. Most preferred R<NUM> is hydrogen.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> is selected from divalent to decavalent, more preferred divalent to hexavalent, even more preferred divalent, preferably aliphatic, hydrocarbon radicals which have <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms and may contain optionally one or more groups selected from -NH-, -C(O)-, -C(S) -, and wherein R<NUM> contains one or more groups -O-, and R<NUM> is substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> has a valency of <NUM> to <NUM>, preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, and still more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, such as <NUM> to <NUM>, specifically <NUM> or <NUM> or <NUM>.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> is selected from the group consisting of:.

R<NUM> contains one or more groups -O-, such as one to five. These groups -O- are preferably ether groups, but can also form an ester group together with a carbonyl group. The groups R<NUM> are substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the compound according to the invention has the formula:
<CHM>
wherein R<NUM> is selected from the group consisting of hydroxy or F, wherein F is as defined above, with the proviso that at least two of R<NUM> are F.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the compound according to the invention has the formula:
<CHM>
wherein one of R<NUM> is hydroxy and one of R<NUM> is a group of the formula
<CHM>
and wherein F is as defined above and the dotted line is the bond to the carbon atom.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the compound according to the invention is a mixture of the following two isomers:
<CHM>
and
<CHM>
wherein F is as defined above.

Examples for precursors for glycerol moieties containing compounds according to the invention are the glycidyl functional Denacol types EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM>, EX <NUM>, EX <NUM> (Nagase). Examples for precursors for trimethylolpropane, pentaerythrol and neopentyl glycol moieties containing compounds according to the invention are the glycidyl functional Denacol types EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM> and EX-<NUM> (Nagase).

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the compound according to the invention has the formula:
<CHM>
wherein x is from <NUM> to <NUM>, preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, and F is as defined above.

Examples for precursors for propylene glycol moieties containing compounds according to the invention are the glycidyl functional Denacol types EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM> (Nagase).

Examples for precursors for ethylene glycol moieties containing compounds according to the invention are the glycidyl functional Denacol types EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM>, EX-<NUM> (Nagase).

In a preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> is selected from the group consisting of a single bond and straight-chain, cyclic or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radicals which have up to <NUM>, preferably up to <NUM>, more preferably up to <NUM> carbon atoms, and which optionally contain one or more groups selected from -O-, -NH-, -C(O)-, and wherein R<NUM> is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl groups, amino groups, and carboxy groups.

If R<NUM> is an aromatic hydrocarbon radical, preferably it does not have a hydroxyl substituent, more preferably R<NUM> is an unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical.

Preferably R<NUM> is selected from aliphatic groups, that is, optionally substituted straight-chain, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals which have up to <NUM> carbon atoms, which optionally contain one or more groups selected from -O-, -NH-, -C(O)-, -C(S)-, tertiary amino groups
<CHM>
and quaternary ammonium groups (
<CHM>
with the proviso that R<NUM> is not -CH=CH-.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> is derived from a dicarboxylic acid. Here and in the context of the present invention "derived from" shall mean in particular, residues that are formally formed from compounds by reacting those compounds to arrive at the compounds of the invention. For example, considering the embodiment where R<NUM> is derived from a dicarboxylic acid, in such case R<NUM> derived from a dicarboxylic acid would result e.g. from the reaction of a polyol or a polyepoxide or a polyamine of formula:.

wherein A is OH and/or an epoxy group and/or an amino group, preferably OH and/or an epoxy group, preferably an epoxy group of the formula:
<CHM>
and wherein c = <NUM>-<NUM>, preferably c = <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably c = <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably c = <NUM> to <NUM>, with a dicarboxylic acid
<CHM>
to form e.g..

with b ≥ <NUM> and a+b = <NUM> to <NUM>, preferably b = <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably b = <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably b = <NUM>, and a+b = preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably a+b = <NUM> to <NUM>.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> is derived from a dicarboxylic acid of the formula:
<CHM>
wherein R<NUM> is as defined above, such as optionally substituted aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic dicarboxylic acids, such as oxalic acid (ethanedioic acid), malonic acid (propanedioic acid), succinic acid (butanedioic acid), glutaric acid (pentanedioic acid), adipic acid (hexanedioic acid), pimelic acid (heptanedioic acid), suberic acid (octanedioic acid), azelaic acid (nonanedioic acid), sebacic acid (decanedioic acid), undecanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, brassylic acid (tridecanedioic acid), thapsic acid (hexadecanedioic acid), glutaconic acid (pent-<NUM>-enedioic acid), citraconic acid ((2Z)-<NUM>-methylbut-<NUM>-enedioic acid), mesaconic acid ((2E)-<NUM>-methyl-<NUM>-butenedioic acid), itaconic acid (<NUM>-methylidenebutanedioic acid), tartronic acid (<NUM>-hydroxypropanedioic acid), mesoxalic acid (oxopropanedioic acid), malic acid (hydroxybutanedioic acid), tartaric acid (<NUM>,<NUM>-dihydroxybutanedioic acid), oxaloacetic acid (oxobutanedioic acid), aspartic acid (<NUM>-aminobutanedioic acid), α-hydroxy glutaric acid (<NUM>-hydroxypentanedioic acid), arabinaric acid (<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-trihydroxypentanedioic acid), acetonedicarboxylic acid (<NUM>-oxopentanedioic acid), α-ketoglutaric acid (<NUM>-oxopentanedioic acid), glutamic acid (<NUM>-aminopentanedioic acid), diaminopimelic acid ((2R,<NUM>)-<NUM>,<NUM>-diaminoheptanedioic acid), saccharic acid ((<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,5R)-<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-tetrahydroxyhexanedioic acid), phthalic acid (benzene-<NUM>,<NUM>-dicarboxylic acid), isophthalic acid (benzene-<NUM>,<NUM>-dicarboxylic acid), terepthtalic acid ((benzene-<NUM>,<NUM>-dicarboxylic acid)), diphenic acid (<NUM>-(<NUM>-carboxyphenyl)benzoic acid), <NUM>,<NUM>-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, norbornene dicarboxylic acid, norbornane dicarboxylic acid, and trimellitic acid, or R<NUM> is derived from an aliphatic or aromatic tricarboxylic acid, wherein R<NUM> is substituted with carboxyl group (COOH), such as citric acid (<NUM>-hydroxypropane-<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-tricarboxylic acid), isocitric acid (<NUM>-hydroxypropane-<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-tricarboxylic acid), aconitic acid ((cis or trans prop-<NUM>-ene-<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-tricarboxylic acid), propane-<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-tricarboxylic acid; trimesic acid (benzene-<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-tricarboxylic acid). Preferred dicarboxylic acids include: succinic acid, adipic acid, itaconic acid, tartaric acid, the reaction products of carboxylic acid anhydrides, such as maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride, with amino acids and amino acid derivatives, such as β-alanine and asparagine, i.e. N-acetyl aspartic acid, N-maleoyl-ß-alanine ((E)-<NUM>-(<NUM>-carboxyethylamino)-<NUM>-oxo-but-<NUM>-enoic acid), N-maleoyl-asparagine (<NUM>-amino-<NUM>-[[(E)-<NUM>-hydroxy-<NUM>-oxo-but-<NUM>-enoyl]amino]-<NUM>-oxo-butanoic acid), etc. As mentioned above asymmetric dicarboxylic acids may lead to the formation of isomers, which are all included in the scope of the present invention.

Most preferred for hair color deepening are succinic acid and tartaric acid. Most preferred for hair color retention (lower color loss value) are succinic acid, tartaric acid, N-acetyl aspartic acid and N-maleoyl-ß-alanine ((E)-<NUM>-(<NUM>-carboxyethylamino)-<NUM>-oxo-but-<NUM>-enoic acid.

Also anhydrides of such dicarboxylic acids such as succinic acid anhydride, itaconic acid anhydride, etc. can be used to react e.g. with hydroxyl and/or amino functional compounds of the formula R<NUM>'(-A)c as defined before.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention F is selected from the group consisting of the formulas:
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
<CHM>
wherein the dotted line in the above formulae represents the bond to the oxygen atom, and wherein there are a least two groups F.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention R<NUM> is not derived from a carbohydrate (saccharide), such as monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, and polysaccharides, or a sugar alcohol. A carbohydrate or saccharide is a biomolecule consisting of carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O) atoms, usually with a hydrogen-oxygen atom ratio of <NUM>:<NUM> (as in water) and thus with the empirical formula Cm(H<NUM>O)n (where m may be different from n). They also include deoxyribose, and structurally include in particular aldoses and ketoses, residues derived from which are thus preferably excluded from R<NUM>. Sugar alcohols (also called polyhydric alcohols, polyalcohols, alditols or glycitols) are organic compounds, typically derived from sugars, that comprise a class of polyols, and commonly include e.g. ethylene glycol, glycerol, erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol etc. (see e.g. https://en. org/wiki/Sugar_alcohol). In particular, R<NUM> derived from ethylene glycol and glycerol are preferably excluded.

A further embodiment of the invention relates to a process for the manufacture of the compounds according to the invention, which process is selected from the group consisting of the following processes:.

A further embodiment of the invention relates to an aqueous composition comprising one or more compounds according to the invention.

In a preferred embodiment of the aqueous composition according to the invention it comprises at least one surfactant. In a further preferred embodiment of the aqueous composition according to the invention it comprises metal salts, preferably Zn<NUM>+, Fe<NUM>+ and/or Fe<NUM>+ salts.

In a preferred embodiment of the aqueous composition according to the invention the weight ratio of said surfactant and/or metal salt to the compound according to the invention, is at least <NUM>, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, specifically <NUM> to <NUM>.

In a preferred embodiment of the aqueous composition according to the invention the optional surfactant is present in an amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight of the aqueous composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the aqueous composition according to the invention it comprises preferably <NUM> to <NUM> %, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM> %, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM> %, even more preferred from <NUM> to <NUM> wt-%, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> wt-%, and more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> wt-% of the compound according to the invention, based on the weight of the aqueous composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the aqueous composition according to the invention the surfactant is selected from cationic, nonionic, betaine and anionic surfactants, preferably having a HLB value ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>, preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>.

More preferably the surfactant is selected from hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based emulsifiers.

The cationic surfactant is preferably selected from primary, secondary, or tertiary amine compounds having up to <NUM> carbon atoms and salts thereof, amido amine compounds having up to <NUM> carbon atoms and salts thereof, such as behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and quaternary ammonium compounds, having up to <NUM> carbon atoms, and preferably with up to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl groups thereof, such as tetraalkyl ammonium compounds, e.g. hexadecyl-trimethylammonium salts, dimethyldioctadecylammonium salts, distearyldimethylammonium salts, cetrimonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, alkylbenzyldimethylammonium salts such as benzalkonium salts, benzethonium salts, ester quats having at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one ester group.

Further preferred examples for cationic emulsifiers are quaternary ammonium groups or amino groups containing linear or branched C8 to C50, preferred C8 to <NUM>, more preferred C8 to C30 alkyl, fatty alcohol and fatty acid based emulsifiers, i.e. fatty acid based ester quats containing one or two fatty acid moieties, fatty amines and ethoxylated/propoxylated fatty amines.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant is a mono-long alkyl -tri short alkyl quaternized ammonium salt or di-long alkyl -di short alkyl quaternized ammonium salt wherein one or two alkyl substituents are selected from an aliphatic group of from about <NUM> to about <NUM> carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about <NUM> carbon atoms; the other alkyl groups are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from about <NUM> to about <NUM> carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about <NUM> carbon atoms; and the counter ion is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, glutamate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about <NUM> carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, one alkyl group is selected from an alkyl group of from about <NUM> to about <NUM> carbon atoms, more preferably from about <NUM> to about <NUM> carbon atoms, still more preferably from about <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms; the other alkyl groups are independently selected from the group consisting of -CH<NUM>, -C<NUM>H<NUM>, -C<NUM>H<NUM>OH, -CH<NUM>C<NUM>H<NUM>, and mixtures thereof; and the counter ion is selected from the group consisting of Cl-, Br-, CH<NUM>OSO<NUM>-, and mixtures thereof. It is believed that such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts can provide, in addition to their emulsification capability, improved slippery and slick feel on wet hair, compared to multi-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts. It is also believed that mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts can provide improved hydrophobicity and smooth feel on dry hair, compared to amine or amine salt cationic surfactants.

Nonlimiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename Genamine KDMP from Clariant, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-<NUM> from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei; stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-<NUM> from Nikko Chemicals; cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-<NUM> from Nikko Chemicals; behenyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate, available from FeiXiang; hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride; and stearoyl amidopropyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride.

Preferred cationic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based mono-ester and di-ester quats (quats = quaternary ammonium cation comprising compound) having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Commercially available examples are Arquad PC SV-<NUM> PG and Armocare VGH70 (Akzo Nobel).

Details on cationic surfactants are disclosed in <CIT>.

The aqueous compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the optional cationic surfactant in amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, alternatively <NUM> wt% of the composition.

Preferred examples for nonionic emulsifiers are ethylene oxide (EO), propylene oxide (PO) and butylene oxide (BO) containing linear or branched C8 to C50, preferred C8 to <NUM>, more preferred C8 to C24 fatty alcohol and fatty acid based emulsifiers as well as saccharide based emulsifiers, i.e. alkyl glycosides, alkoxylated fatty acid sorbitane esters and fatty acid glucamides. Another variety of preferred nonionic surfactants are the semi-polar amine oxides, phosphine oxides, and sulfoxides.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated natural alcohol based ethoxylates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Genapol C, LA, V, O and T types (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are linear or branched oxo alcohol based ethoxylates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Genapol UD, OA, OX, X, LCN types (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated alcohol based block ethoxylates-propoxylates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Genapol EP types (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are ethoxylate-propoxylate block copolymers containing <NUM> to <NUM>% wt% EO units. Commercially available examples are the Genapol PF and PH types (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based ethoxylates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Genagen O and S types (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based castor oil ethoxylates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chains and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Emulsogen HCO and EL types (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid derivatized oligoglycerines. Preferred examples are fatty acid derivatized di-, tri, or tetraglycerines, i.e. mono- or diesters of diglycerine having having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and optionally <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Hostacerine types (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid sorbitane ester based ethoxylates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units attached to the sorbitane ring. A commercially available example is Emulsogen <NUM> (Clariant).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated alcohol based glycosides having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> glycosyl units. Commercially available examples are Plantacare 818up and 1200up (BASF).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based glucamides, preferred fatty acid N-methylglucamides, having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. A commercially available example is the MEGA-<NUM> type (Avanti).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based alkanolamides, preferred fatty acid based ethanolamides, having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Commercially available examples are the Aminon C types (Kao).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are the fatty amine or fatty acid amide based amine oxides having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Commercially available examples are the Tomamine AO types (Air products) and the Genamineox types (Clariant).

The aqueous compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the optional nonionic surfactant in amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, alternatively <NUM> wt% of the composition.

Preferred examples for betaine emulsifiers are carbobetaine, sulfobetaine, phosphatobetaine and phosphonatobetaine groups containing linear or branched C8 to C50, preferred C8 to <NUM>, more preferred C8 to C30 alkyl, fatty alcohol and fatty acid based emulsifiers, i.e. cocoamidopropyl carbobetaines.

Preferably, suitable betaine surfactants for use in compositions according to the invention include those which are known for use in shampoo or other personal care cleansing. They include those surfactants broadly described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about <NUM> to about <NUM> carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Exemplary amphoteric surfactants for use in the formulations of the present invention include cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, lauroamphoacetate, lauroamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof. They also include those surfactants broadly described as derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium, and sulfonium compounds, in which the aliphatic radicals can be straight or branched chain, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about <NUM> to about <NUM> carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

Preferred carbobetaine surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based sarcosides having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. A commercially available example is Medialan LD (Clariant).

Preferred carbobetaine surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based amido propyl betaines having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. A commercially available example is Genagen CAB (Clariant).

Preferred sulfobetaine surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid based taurides having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. A commercially available example is Hostapon CT (Clariant).

Details on betaine surfactants are disclosed in <CIT>.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the optional betaine surfactant in amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, alternatively <NUM> wt% of the composition.

Preferred examples for anionic emulsifiers are carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, phosphate and phosphonate groups containing linear or branched C8 to C50, preferred C8 to <NUM>, more preferred C8 to C24 alkyl, fatty alcohol and fatty acid based emulsifiers, i.e. C8 to C24 fatty acid carboxylates, C8 to C24 fatty acid polyether carboxylates, C8 to C24 fatty acid polyether sulfates, C8 to C24 maleic acid addition products, C8 to C24 fatty alcohol sulfates, C8 to C24 sulfonates, C8 to C40 phosphates containing one or two fatty acid moieties.

Preferably, anionic surfactants suitable for use in the compositions are the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. Other suitable anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of organic, sulfuric acid reaction products. Still other suitable anionic surfactants are the reaction products of fatty acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide. Exemplary anionic surfactants for use in the shampoo composition include ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylamine lauryl sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine lauryl sulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, lauric monoglyceride sodium sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl sarcosine, cocoyl sarcosine, ammonium cocoyl sulfate, ammonium lauroyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl sulfate, sodium lauroyl sulfate, potassium cocoyl sulfate, potassium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, monoethanolamine cocoyl sulfate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium tridecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and combinations thereof. In a further embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate (sodium lauryl ether sulfate).

Preferred anionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol based polyether sulfates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Emulsogen EPM types (Clariant).

Preferred anionic surfactants are saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol based polyether carboxylates having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and <NUM> to <NUM> EO units. Commercially available examples are the Empicol types (Huntsman).

Details on anionic surfactants are disclosed in <CIT>.

Soaps include in particular salts of fatty acids such as alkaline or earth alkaline metal salts, such as sodium or potassium or calcium salts of C6 to C22 fatty acids, such as those obtained from saponification of triglycerides, e.g. alkaline or earth alkaline metal salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the optional anionic surfactant in amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, alternatively <NUM> wt% of the composition.

Further details on surfactants are disclosed in <CIT>.

Preferred examples for silicone based emulsifiers are cationic, nonionic, betaine and anionic emulsifiers.

Preferred examples for cationic emulsifiers are quaternary ammonium groups containing emulsifiers of the ABA type with EO/PO moieties attached to the terminal quat (quaternary ammonium cation comprising) ends of a silicone chain (<CIT>) or quaternized emulsifiers having polyether moieties attached to the silicone chain in a comb like arrangement (<CIT>).

In another preferred embodiment of the invention hydrophilic polyhydroxy moieties as well as oleophilic fatty alkyl or fatty alkyl ester moieties are attached to the silicone chain (<CIT>). A commercially available example for this type of W/O emulsifier is Silform® EOF (available from Momentive Performance Materials).

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the optional silicone based cationic surfactant in amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight of the composition.

Preferred examples for siloxane based nonionic emulsifiers are ethylene oxide (EO), propylene oxide (PO) and butylene oxide (BO) containing emulsifiers of the ABA type with EO/PO/BO moieties attached to the terminal ends of a silicone chain or emulsifiers having polyether moieties attached to the silicone chain in a comb like arrangement. A commercially available example is SF <NUM> (available from Momentive Performance Materials). In another preferred embodiment of the invention, hydrophilic polyether moieties as well as oleophilic alkyl chains are attached to the silicone chain (<CIT>). In another preferred embodiment of the invention, hydrophilic polyglycerol moieties as well as alkyl or fatty alcohol ether/fatty acid ester moieties are attached to the silicone chain (<CIT>, <CIT>). In another preferred embodiment of the invention amodimethicone glycerocarbamates are used (<NPL> and <CIT>). In another preferred embodiment of the invention, cetyl diglyceryl tris(trismethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicones are used (http://ec. eu/consumers/cosmetics/cosing/index. cfm?fuseaction=search. details_v2&id =<NUM>).

The latter four types of emulsifier are especially preferred for W/O emulsions.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the optional silicone based nonionic surfactant in amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>%, alternatively <NUM> wt% by weight of the composition.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise the optional silicone based betaine and anionic surfactant in amount of from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>%%, alternatively <NUM> wt% by weight of the composition.

It is within the scope of the invention to use more than one surfactant in order to optimize the formulation stability. The total amount on optional surfactants in the compositions of the present invention preferably ranges from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, still more preferably from about <NUM>% to about <NUM>%, specifically from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, alternatively <NUM> wt% of the composition.

In a further embodiment of the invention the aqueous compositions optionally comprise additional additives, such as.

with the proviso that oxidizing agents and reducing agents are not present simultaneously in a given composition.

Preferably, the aqueous compositions and also the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise the following components:.

wherein the wt-percentages relate to the complete weight of the aqueous compositions, and the individual wt-ranges may relate to a single component of the said class of components, but preferably relates to the total weight of each components of the said class of components.

The term "diluents/solvents" refers to substances that may be used to dilute/solvatize the at least one polyorganosiloxane (A) and/or the at least one organic compound (B) according to the invention and the other optional other ingredients as mentioned before in addition to water. Suitable organic solvents are i.e. <NUM>-methyl-<NUM>,<NUM>-propanediol, mono and dialcohols or the ethers and esters thereof, in particular mono-C1-C3-alkyl ether, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropyl alcohol, tert. butanol, <NUM>-methoxypropanol, <NUM>-ethoxypropanol and ethoxydiglycol, diols and their ethers and esters, <NUM>,<NUM> propanediol, <NUM>,<NUM>- and <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethyleneglycol and the monomethyl and monoethyl ether thereof, dipropylene glycol and the monomethyl and monoethyl ether thereof, glycerol, diglycerol, hexanetriol, sorbitol, ethyl carbitol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxy ethanol, propylene carbonate, N-alkyl pyrrolidone. In a preferred embodiment water/ethanol, water/isopropyl alcohol, water/dipropylene glycol and water propylene glycol mono methyl ether mixtures are used. Generally, the addition of certain amounts of short chained alcohols improves the homogeneity of the formulations and the penetration of the formulations into the hair. Depending on the polymer structure type and the application purpose certain quantities on acids, bases and/or short chained alcohols are required in order to get transparent formulations. Suitable acids include inorganic or organic acids, like for example carboxyl acids, like acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid. Suitable bases include aqueous ammonia, alkaline hydroxides, alkaline carbonates, etc..

The optional protein, preferred keratin protein fractions used comprise hydrolyzed keratin produced by alkaline and/or enzymatic hydrolysis using methods known in the art. The keratin hydrolysate is about <NUM>,<NUM>-<NUM>,<NUM> molecular weight. The keratin may be derived from human or other mammalian sources such as goat hair (<CIT>), hoof or horn meals, (<CIT>). Alternatively, "keratin protein fraction" is a purified form of keratin that contains predominantly, although not entirely, one distinct protein group as described in <CIT>. Details on the keratin and keratin fractions are disclosed in <CIT>.

A further optional ingredient of the hair treatment formulations is one or more emollients. An "emollient" is a material that protects against wetness or irritation, softens, soothes, supples, coats, lubricates, moisturizes, protects and/or cleanses the skin. Emollients used comprise one or more of: a silicone compound, i.e. dimethicones, cyclomethicones, preferred D<NUM> and D<NUM> cyclosiloxanes, dimethicone copolyols or mixtures of cyclomethicones and dimethicone/vinyldimethicone cross polymer), polyols such as sorbitol, glycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polypropylene glycol, <NUM>,<NUM>-butane diol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, xylitol, ethylhexyl palmitate, a triglyceride such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and fatty acid ester such as cetearyl isononanoate or cetyl palmitate. Details on emollients are disclosed in <CIT>.

As fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature, often referred to as oils, that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based plant oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, for instance purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, <NUM>-ethylhexyl palmitate, <NUM>-octyldodecyl stearate, <NUM>-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoate, octanoate and decanoate; polyol ester, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, pentaerythritol esters, fatty alcohols having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, <NUM>-butyloctanol, <NUM>-hexyldecanol, <NUM>-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature (<NUM>), such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylmethyl- dimethyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones , polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof. Details on suitable fatty substances are disclosed in <CIT>.

Optionally, one or more preservatives may be included in the hair treatment formulations. Examples of such preservatives comprise one or more glycerin containing compound (e.g., glycerin or ethylhexylglycerin or phenoxyethanol), lactic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, potassium sorbate and/or grapefruit seed extract. In a preferred embodiment, the hair straightening formulations are paraben free. Details on preservatives are disclosed in <CIT>.

Optionally, the hair treatment formulations comprise one or more skin protecting agents. Skin protecting agents comprise one or more agents that prevent the undesired transmission of microbes or organic/inorganic chemicals. Details on skin protecting agents are disclosed for examples in <CIT>.

Optionally, one or more conditioning agent may be included in the hair treatment formulations. In one preferred embodiment silicone based conditioning agents are incorporated. Preferred materials are PDMS grades ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>. s, C2 to C18-alkyl derivatized silicones, dimethiconols, polyether modified silicones, amino groups or quaternized ammonium groups containing silicones. They may be also selected from polyorganosiloxanes having functional groups FA as defined above. These silicones can be incorporated as neat materials, organic solutions, emulsions or microemulsions.

Preferred examples for quaternary ammonium groups (quats) containing conditioning agents are α,ω-quat group terminated silicones (<CIT>), quat group terminated T shaped silicones (<CIT>), α,ω-silicone block terminated quats (<CIT>) and silicones containing quat groups in a comb like arrangement, optionally containing additional moieties, i.e. polyethers or aromatic structures (<CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>). Other preferred examples are quat group/silicone block based copolymers (<CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>). In another preferred embodiment quat group/silicone block/hydrophilic block based copolymers are used (<CIT> and <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>). Other preferred examples are quat group/silicone block based copolymers and quat group/silicone block/hydrophilic block based copolymers bearing terminal monofunctional silicone moieties (<CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>). In another preferred embodiment of the invention quat group terminated silicones bearing pending amino groups are used (<CIT>). Other preferred examples are silicone betaines (<CIT>, <CIT>). Commercially available examples for quaternary ammonium groups containing siloxanes are Silsoft Silk and Silsoft Q (available from Momentive Performance Materials).

The above described silicone based conditioning agents in particular impart a smooth and silky feel to hair.

Alternatively, hydrocarbon based conditioning agents can be included. Details on these cationic types of material, containing amino and/or quaternary ammonium groups are disclosed for example in <CIT> and <CIT>.

Optionally, one or more oxidizing agent may be included in the hair treatment formulations. Preferred oxidizing agents include organic oxidizers, i.e. benzoquinone, other quinone derivatives including hydroquinone and aminoquinones and suitable organic peroxides. Details on organic oxidizers are disclosed in <CIT> and <CIT>.

Hydrogen peroxide is the preferred inorganic oxidizing agent. Persulfates, in the form of their sodium potassium and ammonium salts, may also be used alone or in combination with the hydrogen peroxide just before use. Other possible oxidizing agents include sodium percarbonate, sodium perborate, magnesium perborate, magnesium dioxide and barium dioxide. Details on these oxidizing agents are disclosed in <CIT>.

Optionally, one or more reducing agent may be included in the hair treatment formulations with the proviso that oxidizing agents and reducing agents are not present simultaneously in a given formulation. Preferred reducing agents are thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid as well as the salts thereof, in particular the ammonium and ethanolamine salts. Further useful thio compounds are in particular cysteine or the hydrochloride thereof, homocysteine, cysteamine, N-acetyl cysteine, thioglycerol, ethanediol monothioglycollate, <NUM>,<NUM>-propyleneglycol monothioglycollate (see also <CIT>), <NUM>-<NUM>-propanediol monothioglycollate or the isomer mixture resulting therefrom, <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol and <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol monothioglycollate and the isomer mixtures therefrom, polyethylene glycol, such as di-, tri- and tetraethyleneglycol monothioglycollates, glycerol monothiolactate and further thio acids and the esters thereof, as well as mixtures thereof. Details on these organic reducing agents are disclosed in <CIT>.

The usage of inorganic reducing sulfur compounds is basically also possible. Representative examples for use in the reducing compositions include cosmetically acceptable salts (e.g., alkali metal (e.g., sodium and potassium) and ammonium salts), esters (e.g., lower alkyl amines (e.g., triethanolamine (TEA), monoethanolamine (MEA) and aminomethyl propanol (AMP), of sulfite, disulfite, bisulfite, metabisulfite, hydrosulfite, hyposulfite and pyrosulfite). Specific examples of suitable reducing agents thus include sodium metabisulfite, potassium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, sodium thiosulfate, potassium thiosulfate, ammonium bisulfite, ammonium sulfite, ammonium metabisulfite, MEA sulfite, MEA metabisulfite, potassium bisulfite, sodium bisulfite, ammonium bisulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, potassium hydrosulfite, ammonium hydrosulfite, anhydrous sodium sulfite, diammonium sulfite, dipotassium disulfite, dipotassium pyrosulfite, AMP sulfite, AMP metabisulfite, TEA sulfite, TEA metabisulfite, sodium acid sulfite, sodium hyposulfite, sodium pyrosulfite, and sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate. Details on these inorganic reducing agents are disclosed in <CIT>.

Alternatively, high temperature and alkali-treated keratin, wherein the keratin is heated to around <NUM> or above, dithionites and certain hydrides can be used. Details on these reducing agents are disclosed in <CIT>.

Optionally one or more tannins, specifically gallotannins, ellagitannins, complex tannins, condensed tannins, i.e. tannic acid and its other forms quercitannic acid and gallotannic acid may be used. Tannins represent a class of polyphenol derivatives and are known for their structural diversity. A classification is given based on <NPL> which is herewith included by reference and used to define the term tannins in the context of the present invention. The most preferred tannin is gallotannic acid (= tannic acid). Preferred tannins include:
<CHM>.

An example for a complex tannin is Acutissimin A
<CHM>.

Examples for condensed tannins are procyanidin B2 (<NUM>), proanthocyanidin A1 (<NUM>), proanthocyanidin A2 (<NUM>) and proanthocyanidin C1 (<NUM>):
<CHM>.

The most preferred tannin is tannic acid:
<CHM>.

Include in particular those of general formula:.

wherein Me in this formula is a metal cation and the number of cations Me is x and the number of anions A is y and the numbers x and y are such that the salt is neutral. x may be e.g. <NUM> or <NUM>, y may be e.g. <NUM> to <NUM> in particular. A is preferably (i) the anion of an oxidized carbohydrate of the formula -O-C(O)-R, or an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid. Me is preferably an iron or zinc cation.

Particular preferred salts are Fe or Zn salts, which are preferably water-soluble, such as Fe<NUM>+ lactobionate, Fe<NUM>+ maltobionate, Fe<NUM>+ isomaltobionate, Fe<NUM>+ lactobionate, Fe<NUM>+ maltobionate, Fe<NUM>+ isomaltobionate, Fe<NUM>+ gluconate, Fe<NUM>+ gluconate, Fe<NUM>+ glucoheptonate, Fe<NUM>+ glucoheptonate, Fe<NUM>+ glycerophosphate, Fe<NUM>+ glycerophosphate, Zn<NUM>+ lactobionate, Zn<NUM>+ maltobionate, Zn<NUM>+ isomaltobionate, Zn<NUM>+ gluconate, and Zn<NUM>+ glycerophosphate, Fe<NUM>+ tartrate, Fe<NUM>+ glucarate, Fe<NUM>+ tartrate, Fe<NUM>+ glucarate, Zn<NUM>+ tartrate, Zn<NUM>+ glucarate.

The weight ratio of the optional water soluble Fe and/or Zn salt to the compound according to the invention is at least <NUM>, preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, specifically <NUM> to <NUM>, even more specific <NUM> to <NUM>. If the optional tannins are used then the weight ratio of the water soluble Fe and/or Zn salt to the inventive compound plus tannins is at least <NUM>, preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, specifically <NUM> to <NUM>, even more specific <NUM> to <NUM>.

The specific amount of water soluble Fe or Zn salt depends on the molecular weight and the structure of the water soluble Fe or Zn salt as well as on molar ratio of the carboxy groups in the inventive compound and the molar amount of the optionally used tannins. Typically, the higher the molecular weight of the water soluble Fe or Zn salt and/or the higher the molar amount of carboxy groups in the inventive organic compounds and the higher the molar amount of optional tannins the higher the specific amount on water soluble Fe or Zn salt used.

The hair treatment formulations may also comprise one or more additional auxiliaries, i.e. pH adjusting agents, such acids, bases and buffers to adjust the pH value, thickeners (such as polysaccharide thickeners, starch, modified starches, xanthan, gellan, carragenan, pullulan, cellulose, cellulose derivatives, polyacrylic acids, polyacrylates copolymers, polyacrylamides, pectins, clays, fumed silica), lipids, amino acids, sugars, fragrances, sunscreen agents, vitamins, pearlescent agents, gelling agents, trace elements, sequestering agents, antioxidants, humectants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, ceramides, polymers, in particular film-forming polymers; fillers, nacres, colorants and in particular pigments and dyes, including hair dyeing agents as described below, all kinds of bioactive phytochemicals, and also mixtures thereof.

Hair dyeing agents include commonly used oxidative or non-oxidative, temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent and permanent hair dyes. Temporary non-oxidative dyes include e.g. Acid Yellow, Acid Orange <NUM>, Acid Yellow <NUM>, Acid Red <NUM>, Acid Red <NUM>, Acid Violet <NUM>, Acid Blue <NUM>, Acid Black <NUM>, which are commonly used in mixtures. Semi-Permanent Non-Oxidative Hair Dyeing Agents contain basic or cationic dyes with low molar mass, and include in particular HC Yellow No. <NUM>, HC Red No. <NUM>, <NUM>-hydroxypropylamino-<NUM>-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis-(<NUM>-hydroxyethyl)-<NUM>-nitrophenylenediamine, HC Blue No. <NUM>, Basic Red <NUM>, Basic Red <NUM>, Basic Brown <NUM>, Basic Brown <NUM>, Basic Blue <NUM>, Basic Yellow <NUM>. Other semipermanent dyes, include metallic and vegetables derivatives (such as Henna). The metallic dyes are derived from silver salts, lead, and bismuth. Permanent Oxidative Hair Dyeing Agents include commonly used complex systems of precursors in the presence of an oxidizing agent. Depending on the polymer structure type and the application purpose certain quantities on acids, bases and/or short chained alcohols are required in order to get transparent formulations. Suitable acids include inorganic or organic acids, like for example carboxylic acids, like acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, and phosphoric acid. Suitable bases include aqueous ammonia, alkaline hydroxides, alkaline carbonates, etc..

By adding for example such acids or bases suitable pH ranges of the the aqueous compositions can be adjusted such as below <NUM>, preferably below <NUM>, preferably below <NUM>, more preferably below <NUM>.

A further preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition or personal care formulation comprising at least one compound according to the invention, or at least one aqueous composition according to the invention, each as defined herein.

Examples of personal care compositions or cosmetic compositions in which the compounds or the invention can be utilized include, but are not limited to, e.g. deodorants, antiperspirants, antiperspirant/deodorants, including sprays, sticks and roll-on products, shaving products, skin lotions, moisturizers, toners, bath products, cleansing products, shampoos, conditioners, combined shampoo/conditioners, mousses, styling gels, hair sprays, hair dyes, hair color products, hair bleaches, waving products, hair straighteners, nail polish, nail polish remover, nail creams and lotions, cuticle softeners, sunscreen, insect repellent, anti-aging products, lipsticks, foundations, face powders, eye liners, eye shadows, blushes, makeup, mascaras, moisturizing preparations, foundations, body and hand preparations, skin care preparations, face and neck preparations, tonics, dressings, hair grooming aids, aerosol fixatives, fragrance preparations, aftershaves, make-up preparations, soft focus applications, night and day skin care preparations, non-coloring hair preparations, tanning preparations, synthetic and non-synthetic soap bars, hand liquids, nose strips, non-woven applications for personal care, baby lotions, baby baths and shampoos, baby conditioners, shaving preparations, cucumber slices, skin pads, make-up removers, facial cleansing products, cold creams, sunscreen products, mousses, spritzes, paste masks and muds, face masks, colognes and toilet waters, hair cuticle coats, shower gels, face and body washes, personal care rinse-off products, gels, foam baths, scrubbing cleansers, astringents, nail conditioners, eye shadow sticks, powders for face or eye, lip balms, lip glosses, hair care pump sprays and other non-aerosol sprays, hair-frizz-control gels, hair leave-in conditioners, hair pomades, hair de-tangling products, hair fixatives, hair bleach products, skin lotions, pre-shaves and pre-electric shaves, anhydrous creams and lotions, oil/water, water/oil, multiple and macro and micro emulsions, water-resistant creams and lotions, anti-acne preparations, mouth-washes, massage oils, toothpastes, clear gels and sticks, ointment bases, topical wound-healing products, aerosol talcs, barrier sprays, vitamin and anti-aging preparations, herbal-extract preparations, bath salts, bath and body milks, hair styling aids, hair-, eye-, nail- and skin-soft solid applications, controlled-release personal care products, hair conditioning mists, skin care moisturizing mists, skin wipes, pore skin wipes, pore cleaners, blemish reducers, skin exfoliators, skin desquamation enhancers, skin towelettes and cloths, depilatory preparations, personal care lubricants, nail coloring preparations, sunscreens, cosmetics, hair care products, skin care products, toothpastes, drug delivery systems for topical application of medicinal compositions that are to be applied to the skin, combinations of two or more thereof, etc. Such cosmetic or personal care compositions of the present invention may include other ingredients and components as desired for a particular purpose or intended use. For example, personal care compositions may include ingredients chosen from emollient, moisturizer, humectant, pigment, coated mica, colorant, fragrance, biocide, preservative, antioxidant, anti-microbial agent, anti-fungal agent, antiperspirant agent, exfoliant, hormone, enzyme, medicinal compound, vitamin, salt, electrolyte, alcohol, polyol, absorbing agent for ultraviolet radiation, botanical extract, surfactant, silicone oil, organic oil, wax, film former, thickening agent, particulate filler, clay, surfactants, emulsifiers, solvents, emollients, moisturizers, humectants, pigments, colorants, fragrances, biocides, preservatives, chelating agents, antioxidants, anti-microbial agents, anti-fungal agents, antiperspirant agents, exfoliants, hormones, enzymes, medicinal compounds, vitamins, alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, retinols, niacinamide, skin lightening agents, salts, electrolytes, alcohols, polyols, absorbing agents for ultraviolet radiation, botanical extracts, organic oils, waxes, film formers, thickening agents, particulate fillers, silicones, clays, plasticizers, humectants, occlusive, sensory enhancers, esters, resins, film formers, film forming emulsifiers, high refractive index materials, combinations of two or more thereof, etc..

Cosmetic products that can be applied to the face such as skin-care creams, lipsticks, eye and facial makeup, towelettes, and colored contact lenses. Cosmetic products that can be applied to the body such as deodorants, lotions, powders, perfumes, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, and body butters; to the hands/nails: fingernail and toe nail polish, and hand sanitizer; to the hair: permanent chemicals, hair colors, hair sprays, and gels; makeup compositions comprising color pigments, cosmetic products that can applied in particular to the face and eye area such as primers, foundations or eyeshadows, lipsticks, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip stain, lip conditioner, lip primer, lip boosters, and lip butters which may contain sunscreens, concealers, face powders, mascara, eye shadow, eye liner, eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels, and powders which are used to color, fill in, and define the brows; lotions, cleansing formulations; toners; facial masks; peel masks, sheet masks, exfoliant products, moisturizers such as creams or lotions which may contain essential oils, herbal extracts, or other chemicals; night creams, day creams, sunscreen compositions, nail polishes etc..

Personal care articles, which may comprise the compounds of the invention, include e.g. cosmetic and medical articles, such e.g. bar soap, liquid soap (e.g., hand soap), hand sanitizer (including rinse off and leave-on alcohol based and aqueous-based hand disinfectants), preoperative skin disinfectant, cleansing wipes, disinfecting wipes, body wash, acne treatment products, skin cream, shampoo, conditioner, cosmetics (including but not limited to liquid or powder foundation, liquid or solid eyeliner, mascara, cream eye shadow, tinted powder, "pancake" type powder to be used dry or moistened, etc.) deodorant, antimicrobial creams, body lotion, hand cream, topical cream, aftershave lotion, skin toner, mouth wash, toothpaste, sunscreen lotion, and baby products such as, but not limited to, cleansing wipes, baby shampoo, baby soap, and diaper cream, Wound care items, such as, but not limited to, wound healing ointments, creams, and lotions, wound coverings, burn wound cream, bandages, tape, and steri-strips, and medical articles such as medical gowns, caps, face masks, and shoe-covers, surgical drops, etc. Additional products include but are not limited to oral products such as mouth rinse, toothpaste, and dental floss coatings, veterinary and pet care products, preservative compositions, and surface disinfectants including solutions, sprays or wipes, etc..

The aqueous or cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be (used in or) formulated, in particular, into a form typical for hair treatment compositions. Preferred are topical hair care or treatment compositions, e.g. hair tonics, conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pre-treatment preparations, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments e. leave-on and rinse-off deep conditioners, hair-structuring preparations, e.g. hair-waving preparations for permanent waves (hot wave, mild wave, cold wave), hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams, hair serums, hair sprays, bleaching preparations, e g. hydrogen peroxide solutions, lightening shampoos, bleaching creams, bleaching powders, bleaching pastes or oils, temporary, semi-permanent or permanent hair colorants, preparations containing self-oxidizing dyes, or natural hair colorants, such as henna or chamomile. Based on the application the hair care preparations may be in particular in the form of a (aerosol) spray, (aerosol) foam, gel, gel spray, cream, lotion, liquid, serum or a wax, mousse, shampoo, such as pearl shampoo, anti-frizz shampoo etc.. The aqueous compositions according to the invention can be used as leave-on or rinse-off hair treatment compositions. A particular preferred cosmetic composition according to the invention is for use in hair treatment, preferably for use in hair coloring treatment. The above described aqueous cosmetic compositions according to the invention can provide particularly benefits with respect to an improved durability of artificial colors on hair. In addition the aqueous hair treatment formulations according to the invention provide a hair strengthening and shaping effect as well as a conditioning effect, in particular, before, during and after a hair dyeing treatment, such as hair bleaching treatment. The hair treatment compositions according to the invention can provide benefits with respect to the strengthening of hair, the hair coloration, the color retention and the shaping of hair, i.e. the curling and straightening of hair.

Preferred cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of a hair shampoo composition, hair care composition, hair conditioning composition, hair strengthening composition, hair coloration or dyeing composition, hair combability improving composition, anti-frizz composition, hair rinse-off and leave-on compositions.

In a further embodiment the invention relates to a process for the treatment of hair which comprises the steps of providing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, and applying said cosmetic composition to said hair. Such process for the treatment of hair may further comprises the step of dyeing the hair.

A particular preferred process for the treatment of hair involves steps of:.

Another particular preferred process for the treatment of hair involves steps of:.

In the above processes the weight ratio of the optional water soluble Fe and/or Zn salt to the compound according to the invention is at least <NUM>, preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, specifically <NUM> to <NUM>, even more specific <NUM> to <NUM>. If the optional tannins are used then the weight ratio of the water soluble Fe and/or Zn salt to the inventive compound (polyorganosiloxane of formula (A) and/or compound of formula (B)) plus tannins is at least <NUM>, preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, specifically <NUM> to <NUM>, even more specific <NUM> to <NUM>. The specific amount of water soluble Fe and/or Zn salt depends on the molecular weight and the structure of the water soluble Fe or Zn salt as well as on molar ratio of the carboxy groups in the inventive compound and the molar amount of the optionally used tannins. Typically, the higher the molecular weight of the water soluble Fe or Zn salt and/or the higher the molar amount of carboxy groups in the inventive organic compounds and the higher the molar amount of optional tannins the higher the specific amount on water soluble Fe or Zn salt used.

Preferably, process step <NUM>), contacting the hair with the aqueous cosmetic composition of the invention, to form treated hair is carried out at a temperature and length of time sufficient to penetrate the fiber. Typically, process step <NUM>) is carried out at <NUM> to <NUM>, preferred at <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred room temperature, for <NUM> to <NUM>, preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>.

Preferably, process step <NUM>), contacting the hair with the inventive hair treatment compositions based on water soluble Zn<NUM>+, Fe<NUM>+ and/or Fe<NUM>+ salts to form further treated hair is carried out at a temperature and length of time sufficient to penetrate the fiber. Typically, process step <NUM>) is carried out at <NUM> to <NUM>, preferred at <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred room temperature, for <NUM> to <NUM>, preferred <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferred <NUM> to <NUM>.

Preferably, process step <NUM>) drying the treated hair by applying heat with a temperature of ><NUM>, preferably is a hot ironing step which permanently bonds to the hair or incorporates into the hair the inventive hair treatment compositions or parts of the hair treatment compositions used in steps <NUM>) and <NUM>). The elevated temperature can result in chemical reactions of components of the compositions used in steps <NUM>) and <NUM>) with reactive moieties of the keratin fiber or the formation of complexes of components of the compositions used in steps <NUM>) and <NUM>). Preferred temperatures range from <NUM> to about <NUM>, more preferred from <NUM> to about <NUM>, even more preferred from <NUM> to about <NUM>. Typically, <NUM> to <NUM> rounds of hot ironing are applied in case of drying the hair.

In the context of the present invention water soluble Zn and/or Fe salts used in step <NUM>) preferably have a water solubility of at least <NUM>/l at <NUM>.

The above described hair treatment process according to the invention can provide benefits with respect to the strengthening of hair, the hair shaping, i.e. the curling and straightening of hair, the hair coloration, the hair color deepening, the hair bleaching, the hair color retention, the hair conditioning.

The present invention further relates to the use of the aqueous compositions according to the invention for the treatment of hair, in particular, for strengthening of hair, for hair color retention, for hair color enhancement, for hair color deepening, for hair color protection, for shaping of hair, i.e. the curling and straightening of hair, for hair conditioning, for hair smoothening or softening, for hair straightening, for improving manageability of the hair, in particular for improving the combability of the hair.

Most preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are for use in hair treatment, preferably for use in hair coloring.

Most preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are selected from a hair shampoo composition, hair care composition, hair conditioning composition, hair strengthening composition, hair coloration or dyeing composition, hair color deepening composition, hair combability improving composition, anti-frizz composition, hair rinse-off and leave-on compositions.

The present invention further relates to the use of the compounds according to the invention or the aqueous composition according to the invention for the treatment of hair, preferably for strengthening of hair, for hair color retention, for hair color enhancement, for hair color deepening, for hair color protection, for shaping of hair, i.e. the curling and straightening of hair, for hair conditioning, for hair smoothening or softening, for hair straightening, for improving manageability of the hair, in particular for improving the combability of the hair. Aspects of the invention may be further understood with reference to the following nonlimiting examples.

(The percentages refer to weight-% unless otherwise indicated).

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) succinic acid, <NUM> dipropylene glycol and <NUM> triethylamine are mixed and heated to <NUM>. <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) glycerol diglycidylether (
<CHM>
R = (<NUM>:<NUM>) H or
<CHM>
) are added dropwise within <NUM> minutes. The mixture is kept at <NUM> for <NUM> hours. Afterwards, the transparent slightly yellow mixture is cooled to room temperature and the conversion of the epoxide groups determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy. The conversion of epoxy groups is <NUM>%. A product essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained
<CHM>
<CHM>.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) of glycerol diglycidylether, <NUM> succinic acid (<NUM> mmol), <NUM>,<NUM> methoxypropyl acetate and <NUM> trimethylamine are mixed and heated to <NUM> for 15hrs. Upon progression of the esterification reaction the mixture turns turbid. The conversion of the epoxide groups, as determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy is <NUM>%.

<NUM> (<NUM> mmol) succinic acid anhydride are added and the reaction continued at <NUM>° C for 6hrs. Upon progression of this second esterification reaction the mixture turns transparent (slightly brownish). The conversion of the anhydride groups, as determined by means of<NUM>H NMR spectroscopy, is <NUM>%.

<NUM> <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol are added. The methoxypropyl acetate is removed under reduced pressure at <NUM>/<NUM> Hg.

A slightly brownish transparent liquid is obtained.

A product essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained
<CHM>
<CHM>
with R<NUM> being -OH and -OC(O)CH<NUM>CH<NUM>COOH in a ratio of <NUM>:<NUM>.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) of glycerol diglycidylether, <NUM> adipic acid (<NUM> mmol), <NUM> <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol and <NUM> trimethylamine are mixed and heated to <NUM> for <NUM> hrs. The conversion of the epoxide groups, as determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy is <NUM>%. A colorless transparent liquid is obtained.

A product essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained:
<CHM>
<CHM>.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> adipic acid (<NUM> mmol), <NUM> methoxypropyl acetate and <NUM> trimethylamine are mixed and heated to <NUM>. <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) of glycerol diglycidylether are added during <NUM> minutes. The initially turbid mixture turns clear. Afterwards, the temperature is increased to <NUM> and maintained for 11hrs.

The conversion of the epoxide groups, as determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy is <NUM>%.

<NUM> (<NUM> mmol) succinic acid anhydride are added and the reaction continued at <NUM>° C for <NUM> hrs. The conversion of the anhydride groups, as determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy, is <NUM>%. Upon cooling to room temperature the target product precipitates from the solution.

<NUM> <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol are added. The methoxypropyl acetate is removed under reduced pressure at <NUM> / <NUM> Hg.

A slightly yellowish transparent liquid is obtained.

A product essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained:
<CHM>
<CHM>
with R<NUM> being -OH and -OC(O)CH<NUM>CH<NUM>COOH in the ratio of <NUM>:<NUM>.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> methoxypropyl acetate, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) triglycerol
<CHM>
and <NUM> triethylamine are mixed and heated to <NUM>. <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) itaconic acid anhydride are added dropwise within <NUM> minutes. The mixture is heated to <NUM> for <NUM> hours.

The initially yellow dispersion turns slightly reddish during the course of the reaction. The conversion of the anhydride is determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy. The conversion of the anhydride is <NUM>%. Afterwards, <NUM> <NUM>,<NUM> butanediol are added and the methoxypropyl acetate removed at <NUM>/20mbar during <NUM> hrs. A slightly yellow transparent solution is obtained.

A product essentially consisting of the following structure
<CHM>
with two of the R being:
<CHM>
or
<CHM>
(wherein the dotted line is the bond to the oxygen atom)
and three being hydrogen, is obtained.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) itaconic acid, <NUM> <NUM>,<NUM> butanediol and <NUM> triethylamine are mixed and heated to <NUM>. <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) glycerol diglycidylether are added dropwise within <NUM> minutes. The temperature increased to <NUM>. It is further increased to <NUM> and kept there for <NUM> hours. Afterwards, the transparent colorless mixture is cooled to room temperature and the conversion of the epoxide groups determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy. The conversion of epoxy groups is <NUM>%.

A product essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained:
<CHM>
<CHM>
with R<NUM>
<CHM>
or
<CHM>
(wherein the dotted line is the bond to the oxygen atom).

Test method for evaluation of the color retention is described in detail in <CIT>. The method determines the hair color changes before and after washes by Delta E. Color changes were measured by measuring CIE L*, a* and b* values (or CIELAB color space) on a HunterLab colorimeter.

The meaning of L*, a*, b* was elaborated in "<NPL>. The L* value measures the lightness from L* = <NUM> (black) to L* = <NUM> (white). The color is measured by a* from negative value (green) to positive value (red) and b* from negative value (blue) to positive value (yellow). For example, a medium blonde has an L*, a*, b* value of L* = <NUM>, a* = <NUM>, b* = <NUM> and a medium auburn has an L*, a*, b* value of L* = <NUM>, a* = <NUM>, b* = <NUM>.

Delta E was calculated using the following equation to evaluate color change before and after washes.

Where <MAT>, and <MAT> are measured CIE L*, a*, b* color parameters (CIELAB color space) before and after washing, respectively.

The larger value of Delta E reflects greater change of color, so smaller Delta E is desired because it indicates less color loss after washing.

Similarly, color enhancement was calculated using the following equation to evaluate initial color depth increase with treatment.

Where <MAT>, and <MAT> are measured CIE L*, a*, b* before washing color parameters with and without treatment respectively. Here larger Delta E is desired because it means more initial color enhancement.

The following treatment solution was prepared:
TS1 solution (polyglycerol succinic ester from example <NUM>) approximately <NUM> was composed of <NUM> of the polyglycerol succinic ester from example <NUM>, <NUM> dipropylene glycol (that is <NUM> solution of the polyglycerol succinic ester in dipropylene glycol obtained in example <NUM>), and <NUM> water.

The hair dye was a commercial hair dye Garnier Nutrisse Ultra Color R3, Light Intense Auburn, from L'Oreal.

A bundle of <NUM> single bleached European hair tress (Kerling International Haarfarbrik GMBH) was immersed in <NUM> TS1 solution for <NUM> minutes. Then the hair was dried at room temperature overnight. The hair bundle was then washed by <NUM> wt-% SLES (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate) for <NUM> times. Hair was dried and then dyed with Garnier R3 dye for <NUM> minutes following the standard dyeing procedure of Garnier R3.

The control tress was the tress treated by <NUM> water. And then washed with <NUM> wt-% SLES and dyed with Garnier R3 dye same as hair tress treated by crosslinking technology. The initial color was measured.

A bundle of <NUM> single bleached European hair tress (Kerling International Haarfarbrik GMBH) dyed with Garnier R3 dye for <NUM> minutes following the standard dyeing procedure of Garnier R3. Then the hair was dried by bonnet. The initial color was measured. The dried hair was immersed in <NUM> TS1 solution for <NUM> minutes. Then the hair was dried at room temperature overnight. The hair bundle was then washed by <NUM> wt-% SLES (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate) for <NUM> times. Hair was then dried.

The control tress was Garnier R3 dyed tress treated by <NUM> water. The hair was then washed with <NUM> wt-% SLES and dried same as hair tress treated by crosslinking technology.

The <NUM> hair tresses were put in <NUM> conical flask with <NUM> <NUM>% SLES solution. The flask was shaked at <NUM> rpm <NUM> in Shel Lab shaking water bath for <NUM> minutes, (<NUM> minutes wash equals <NUM> hand washes. ) After <NUM> minutes, the hair was dried and the hair color was measured.

The hair treated by the technology according to the invention before dyeing shows a color enhancement effect with darker initial color compared to the control.

The technology according to the invention (TS1 containing Example <NUM>) shows a color retention effect with lower color loss Delta E than for the control.

Post-treatment by polyglycerol succinic ester from example <NUM> kept the original color darkness with almost no change in L*.

Post-treatment by the technology according to the invention (TS1) reduced the color loss Delta E by more than <NUM> units compared to the control.

<NUM> grams undamaged Dark brown hair tresses were obtained from Hair International Importers. A commercial bleaching lightener powder (<NUM> grams) and a commercial <NUM> volume developer (<NUM> grams) were mixed together. The bleaching composition was applied to the virgin dark brown hair tress, spread through and left on the hair tress for <NUM>. After rinsing the dye from the tress with tap water, the tress was washed with a <NUM> wt% Sodium Laureth Sulfate (<NUM> EO) solution and rinsed. The dried hair was immersed in <NUM> TS1 solution for <NUM> minutes. Then the hair was dried at room temperature overnight. The hair bundle was then washed by <NUM> wt-% SLES (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate) for <NUM> times. Hair was then dried.

This treatment is to strengthen the hair after bleaching.

Part A: The components of part A were mixed with an overhead mechanical stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part B: <NUM> ethylene glycol distearate and <NUM> water were mixed with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part C: <NUM> cocamide monoethanolamide and <NUM> water were mixed with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

The components of part D were added to part A and stirred with an overhead mechanical stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes. A mixture A+D was obtained.

Part B was added to the mixture A+D and stirred for <NUM> minutes at <NUM> rpm with a mechanical stirrer. Mixture A+D+B was obtained.

Part C was added to the mixture A+D+B and stirred for <NUM> minutes at <NUM> rpm with a mechanical stirrer. Mixture A+D+B+C was obtained.

Part E was added to the mixture A+D+B+C and stirred for <NUM> minutes at <NUM> rpm with a mechanical stirrer. Mixture A+D+B+C+E was obtained.

Part F was added last to the mixture A+D+B+C+E and the mixture stirred for <NUM> minutes at <NUM> rpm with a mechanical stirrer.

Part B: <NUM> cocamide monoethanolamide was mixed with <NUM> water (<NUM>) with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part C: <NUM> hydroxypropyl methylcellulose powder was slowly added to <NUM> water (<NUM>) and stirred with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part D: <NUM> ethylene glycol distearate powder was slowly added to <NUM> water (<NUM>) and stirred with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part B was slowly added to part A with mechanical stirring at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes. Mixture A+B was obtained.

Part C was slowly added to part A+B with mechanical stirring at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes. Mixture A+B+C was obtained.

Part D was slowly added to part A+B+C with mechanical stirring at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes. Mixture A+B+C+D was obtained.

Part E was added to part A+B+C+D with mechanical stirring at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes. Mixture A+B+C+D+E was obtained.

Part F was added to the mixture A+B+C+D+E and mechanically stirred for <NUM> minutes at <NUM> rpm.

Finally, Part G was added and the mixture stirred at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part A: The components of part A were mixed with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part B: The components of part B were mixed with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

Part B was added to part A and the mixture stirred with an overhead mechanical stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

The Components of part C were added to the mixture A+B and stirred with an overhead mechanical stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> hour.

The components of part D were mixed with a magnetic stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes and afterwards added to the mixture A+B+C.

Finally, the complete mixture A+B+C+D was mixed with a mechanical stirrer at <NUM> rpm for <NUM> minutes.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) of glycerol diglycidylether, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) tartaric acid, <NUM> trimethylamine and <NUM> dipropylene glycol are mixed and heated to <NUM> for <NUM> hrs. Afterwards, the mixture is cooled to room temperature and the conversion of the epoxide groups determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy. The conversion epoxy groups is <NUM>%.

A colorless product essentially consisting of the following isomers:
<CHM>
<CHM>
with.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) of glycerol diglycidylether, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) N-acetyl aspartic acid:
<CHM>
<NUM> trimethylamine and <NUM> <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol are mixed and heated to <NUM> for <NUM> hrs. Afterwards, the mixture is cooled to room temperature and the conversion of the epoxide groups determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy. The conversion epoxy groups is <NUM>%.

A slightly yellowish product essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained:
<CHM>
<CHM>
with.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) of β-alanine are dissolved in <NUM> DI water at room temperature. <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) of maleic acid anhydride are added. The temperature increases from <NUM> to <NUM> within <NUM> minutes. The mixture turns into a turbid white dispersion.

The temperature is adjusted at <NUM> for <NUM> hrs. Afterwards, the precipitate is filtered, washed 10x with <NUM> DI water and 3x with <NUM> cyclohexane. Finally, the volatiles are removed at <NUM>/<NUM> Hg. The structure of the material was confirmed by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy.

<NUM> of a white powder essentially consisting of the following structure are obtained. N-Maleoyl-β-alanine ((E)-<NUM>-(<NUM>-carboxyethylamino)-<NUM>-oxo-but-<NUM>-enoic acid):
<CHM>.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) of the N-maleoyl β-alanine according to example <NUM>, <NUM> <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol and <NUM> trimethylamine are mixed at room temperature and heated to <NUM>. <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) of glycerol diglycidylether are added. The mixture is heated to <NUM> for 12hrs. The mixture turns transparent during the heating process. Afterwards, the mixture is cooled to room temperature and the conversion of the epoxide groups determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy. The conversion epoxy groups is <NUM>%.

A reddish product essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained:
<CHM>
<CHM>
with
R<NUM> being -OC(O)CH=CHC(O)NHCH<NUM>CH<NUM>C(O)OH or -OC(O)CH<NUM>CH<NUM>NHC(O)CH=CHC(O)OH.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) of asparagine are dispersed in <NUM> DI water at room temperature. <NUM> (200mmol) of maleic acid anhydride are added. The mixture forms a white dispersion which is stirred at <NUM> for <NUM> hrs. Afterwards, the mixture is heated to <NUM> for <NUM> hrs. It forms a transparent solution. Volatiles are removed at <NUM>/<NUM> Hg. The sticky residue is twice washed with <NUM>-propanol and volatile components removed at <NUM>/20mmHg. The structure of the material was confirmed by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy.

A colorless candy like material essentially consisting of the following structure is obtained
<CHM>.

In a <NUM> three-necked flask, equipped with refluxing condenser, thermometer and magnetic stirrer, <NUM> (<NUM> mmol) of the N-maleoyl asparagine according to example <NUM>, <NUM> <NUM>,<NUM>-butanediol and <NUM> trimethylamine are mixed at room temperature and heated to <NUM>. <NUM> (<NUM> mmol epoxy groups) of glycerol diglycidylether are added. The mixture is heated to <NUM> for 12hrs. A white dispersion is formed during the heating process. Afterwards, the mixture is cooled to room temperature and the conversion of the epoxide groups determined by means of <NUM>H NMR spectroscopy. The conversion epoxy groups is ><NUM>%.

A white dispersion essentially consisting of the following isomers is obtained:
<CHM>
<CHM>
with.

The material is instantaneously soluble in DI water.

The following treatment solution was prepared:.

A bundle of <NUM> single bleached European hair tress (Kerling International Haarfarbrik GmbH) dyed with Garnier R3 dye for <NUM> minutes following the standard dyeing procedure of Garnier R3. Then the hair was dried by bonnet. The initial color was measured. The dried hair was immersed in <NUM> TS2 solution or TS3 solution or TS4 solution for <NUM> minutes. Then the hair was dried at room temperature overnight. The hair bundle was then washed by <NUM> wt-% SLES (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate) for <NUM> times. Hair was then dried.

The <NUM> hair tresses were put in <NUM> conical flask with <NUM> <NUM>% SLES solution. The flask was shaken at <NUM> rpm <NUM> in Shel Lab shaking water bath for <NUM> minutes, (<NUM> minutes wash equals <NUM> hand washes. ) After <NUM> minutes, the hair was dried and the hair color was measured.

TS2 notably deepens the hair color tone upon a post-treatment protocol.

The TS3 and TS4 treatments do not deepen the color tone.

Claim 1:
A compound of the formula:

        R<NUM>(-F)<NUM>-<NUM>

wherein
R<NUM> is selected from divalent to octadecavalent, optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals which have up to <NUM> carbon atoms, and may contain optionally one or more groups selected from -O-, -NH-, -C(O)-, -C(S)-, tertiary amino groups
<CHM>
and quaternary ammonium groups
<CHM>
wherein R<NUM> contains one or more groups -O-, and is substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and
F is selected from:

        -O-C(O)-R<NUM>-C(O)OH,

and

        -NR<NUM>-C(O)-R<NUM>-C(O)OH,

the groups F bind to a carbon atom of R<NUM>,
wherein
R<NUM> is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, or optionally substituted straight-chain, cyclic or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radicals which have up to <NUM> carbon atoms which optionally contain one or more groups selected from -O-, -NH-, -C(O)-, -C(S)-, tertiary amino groups
<CHM>
and quaternary ammonium groups
<CHM>
R<NUM> is selected from a single bond or optionally substituted straight-chain, cyclic or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radicals which have up to <NUM> carbon atoms, which optionally contain one or more groups selected from -O-, -NH-, -C(O)-, -C(S)-, tertiary amino groups
<CHM>
and quaternary ammonium groups
<CHM>
with the proviso that R<NUM> is not -CH=CH-,
and salts thereof.