Patent Description:
The invention furthermore relates to a system for manufacturing footwear, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper part of said footwear.

Prior art methods and systems for manufacturing footwear rely to a large degree on manual handling of e.g. footwear parts, including manual handling of footwear parts when these are positioned prior to being connected by stitching and including manual operation in connection with stitching, etc. In the prior art, custom made jigs have been used, e.g. for fixating footwear parts after they have been manually positioned. However, such prior art systems require a multitude of various custom-made jigs to be made and to be made available at the manufacturing facility, which may increase manufacturing costs. Also, it is noted that such methods are still relatively labour intensive. Thus, it is desired to reduce the rate of manual labour in connection with manufacture of footwear.

<CIT> relates to a method for the manufacture of a plurality of shoes, which comprises providing a plurality of first shoe components for the manufacture of the plurality of shoes and moving the plurality of first shoe components with a transport means which is at least partially comprised of the plurality of first shoe components, e.g. where the transport means is provided as a transport belt.

<CIT> relates to automated assembly and stitching of shoe parts wherein shoe parts may be retrieved and temporarily assembled according to preset relative positions to form stacks, whereafter the part stacks may be placed at a stitching machine for more permanent attachment of the parts to form a shoe assembly.

<CIT> relates to a system that positions a shoe part in an automated manner during a shoe-manufacturing process, wherein a part-recognition system analyses an image of a shoe part to identify the part and determine a location of the part.

<CIT> relates to a shoe manufacturing technique, wherein parts of a shoe upper are stitched together by a computer guided sewing machine. The parts are aligned on a cardboard base, where plotted lines outline the positions of the parts and where the cardboard base includes windows in areas where the parts will be stitched.

The invention relates to a method of manufacturing footwear as specified in the appended claim <NUM>, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper part of said footwear, said method comprising.

Hereby, the manufacturing of footwear may be improved as regards cost-efficiency and production speed, for example since the manufacturing may take place in a highly or at least partly automated manner and since the base layer may serve as a means of accommodating the footwear parts in individual form as well as in the processed connected form after being stitched. Thus, the base layer may also serve as a means for handling the footwear parts, the connected footwear parts and/or other assemblies of footwear parts and may serve as a means for transport, e.g. along a process line, from one processing step to the next, etc. Thus, manual handling may be reduced or possibly totally avoided for a large number of process steps, e.g. since the base layer with or without the positioned and/or processed parts may be serve as a work base as well as transport means.

The base layer may be a uniform sheet or layer of material, e.g. wherein the base layer may be continuous along at least a part of the length and a least a part of the width of the base layer and having essentially uniform characteristics.

The base layer may be a uniform sheet or layer of material, e.g. wherein the base layer may be continuous along the length and the width of the base layer and having essentially uniform characteristics.

The at least two footwear parts that are being fixated and later e.g. stitched together and/or to the base layer may for example be.

Thus, the method may involve that any such combination of footwear parts is provided and positioned on the base layer in accordance with the invention. It will be understood that the order, in which the at least two footwear parts are provided and positioned may be arbitrary but may customarily depend on the actual footwear construction and/or design. Thus, in case the specific combination of footwear parts is a vamp and a tongue, the vamp may be positioned as the first out of the at least two and the tongue as the second footwear part, but the order of positioning these two footwear parts may be reversed.

Furthermore, it will be understood that other combinations than the above-mentioned may be selected as the at least two footwear parts to be provided and positioned, etc. in accordance with specific embodiments of the invention.

Even further, it is noted that the at least two footwear parts may be positioned and subsequently fixated on the base layer with the side of each of the at least two footwear parts that normally will be facing the inner of the completed footwear facing the base layer. Other variations are possible, e.g. with one of the at least two footwear parts being reversed.

According to the invention, advantages may be achieved due to automation, e.g. as regards cost-efficiency, production speed, etc. as mentioned above. In particular, the automation may be effected due to the automated stitching, which may be provided by an automated stitching device, e.g. a motor driven stitching device, which furthermore may perform the stitching in an at least partly automatically controlled manner, which may be applied in a multitude of ways. For example, the stitching device may perform the stitching in accordance with a predefined route, defined in relation to the positions and/or orientation of the at least two footwear parts that have been fixated on the base layer. Thus, a stitching route or routes may be defined in e.g. an X-Y system on the base layer and implemented by the stitching device. Another possibility is that the automated stitching device is configured to stitch along a route, which has been indicated on at least one of the at least two footwear parts, e.g. with a visible marking, which may be followed by the stitching device, which may receive input data from an e.g. vision device, which may be combined with the stitching device or may be an independent device. Such a marking may instead be invisible, e.g. an electronical or magnetic trail, a radiation trail, etc. which may require corresponding sensing devices to control the stitching device. Also, it may be a possibility that the stitching device may be controlled to follow an edge of one of the at least two footwear parts and stitch in a predetermined distance to the relevant footwear part, in which case input data may be provided by vision equipment or other means of detecting and/or following e.g. an edge part. Other options for controlling or guiding the automated stitching are possible. Also, it may be a possibility that such options may be combined, for example in case a stitching route is defined as a route in relation to an X-Y system on the base layer, where furthermore it may be supplemented with a guiding system, for example using a vision system to effect a predefined distance to an edge of one of the footwear parts and/or which ensures that the stitching is started and/or stopped, when e.g. the at least two footwear parts are not overlapping.

The method may be automated in other manners. For example, the base layer may be provided in an automated manner, for example being delivered by a denesting device or a similar arrangement, whereby the base layers from e.g. a stack are being delivered one by one and for example put onto a conveyor system or the like. Robotic delivering means may also be utilized for providing the base layers.

As regards the step of providing the at least two footwear parts and positioning these various manners of automating these may be utilized, including the use of robotic means, e.g. robots that may grip the footwear parts by e.g. vacuum grippers and place these on the base layer, controlled by a controller that further receives input as regards the position of the footwear part e.g. above the base layer. In this connection it is noted that in case robotic vacuum grippers are used, these may be equipped with a plurality of relatively small suctions cups or the like, e.g. arranged in an array corresponding to e.g. the size of footwear parts to be gripped. The individual suction cups or the like may be individually supplied with vacuum. Additionally, it is noted that a further axis of the vacuum gripper robot may be implemented by having the active suctions cups or the like, e.g. the suction cups actually gripping a footwear part, be controlled to be extended or in another configuration by having the inactive suction cups be controlled to be retracted, when gripping, positioning and/or moving etc. a footwear part. Hereby, a number of advantages may be achieved, e.g. that the inactive suctions cups or the like that are actually not involved in gripping a footwear part, will not be near or will at least be positioned a distance from the footwear part, thus making it easier to maneuver the vacuum gripper and/or the gripped footwear part, e.g. because the inactive suctions cups or the like are less likely to collide with other objects, for example a fixture for the base layer, conveyor parts or other parts involved in the processing. Hence, the robotic vacuum gripper may, when implemented in such a manner with a further axis, be used with greater delicacy, with greater precision and in general with greater degrees of freedom as regards e.g. the ability to turn or in general angularly maneuver a footwear part, position a footwear part near a frame or fixture for the base layer, utilize the available base layer area to a greater extent, etc. Other automation means are possible in this regard.

Further, as regards the fixating of the at least two footwear parts on the base layer, various manners of automating this will be available as it has been exemplified herein. Thus, automation may be implemented in connection with application of adhesives, e.g. automated application in certain areas, etc., activation of applied adhesives, etc., where automated devices may be utilized.

Even further, it should be noted that in connection with the further processing of the at least two footwear parts in connected form to provide a completed piece of footwear numerous automation steps and automation means may be presented as it has been exemplified in the present application.

According to an embodiment of the invention, at least one of said at least two footwear parts may be a leather footwear part.

According to the invention, the method comprises the step of providing a fixture frame for said base layer and comprises the step of arranging the base layer to be held by said fixture frame.

Hereby, the base layer, when held by such a fixture frame, may provide improved characteristics as regards e.g. strength, rigidity, load bearing capability, precision as regards positioning of e.g. footwear parts on it, etc. since the fixture may serve as a rigid frame or the like, by means of which the base layer may be e.g. tightened, for example to provide a planar surface, on which the e.g. footwear parts may be positioned with great precision. Furthermore, the fixture may facilitate the e.g. handling and/or transport of the base layer, with or without parts positioned on it.

In an embodiment of the invention a reference may be provided for positioning said at least two footwear parts on said base layer.

Hereby, the positioning of the at least two footwear parts is supported, for example in case the position and/or orientation of the at least two footwear parts is based on distances from the reference, coordinates based on a reference coordinate system, etc. The reference may be a visual reference, which may be utilized when manually positioning the at least two footwear parts and/or which may also be utilized when positioning the at least two footwear parts in an automated manner, e.g. using a robotic unit that may have vision means to enable the placing. The reference may instead be based on other means such as electronic means, magnetic means, radiation means of various kinds, etc, as it will be apparent to a person skilled within the art of automation and related fields.

Said reference may be provided by the base layer and/or said fixture for the base layer.

Hereby, the reference may be provided in advantageous manners, e.g. combined and/or incorporated with the base layer, e.g. embedded in or placed on the base layer material for example as a visual coordinate system or as an electronic device indicating origin and direction to be used by e.g. a robot. Similar applies when the reference is provided by the fixture, but where e.g. a rectangular frame may serve to provide the reference, for example with one inner corner providing the origin and the corresponding two frame parts providing x- and y-axes that may be detected using visual means or other means, e.g. in case one or more detectable objects have been embedded in the frame, which for example may be made from epoxy or other synthetic materials, e.g. glass fibre reinforced epoxy or similar materials. Further, it is noted that since the fixture preferably is reusable, a reference provided by the fixture may be technically more advanced, which relates to the reference means itself as well as the detector or sensing means that for example provides control input to e.g. a robotic apparatus for placing the parts.

According to an embodiment of the invention, said step of fixating said at least two footwear parts on said base layer in respective positions may comprise adhering the at least two shoe parts on said base layer with an adhesive.

Hereby, it may be achieved that the at least two footwear parts may not be accidentally moved from the intended position(s) and may remain there until having been connected by the automated stitching. Such unintended moving of the at least two footwear parts might otherwise happen when the base layer or the fixture is being transported from one process step to the next and in particular when the base layer and the at least two footwear parts has to the stitched by an automatic stitching apparatus.

According to an embodiment of the invention, said adhesive may be provided as a non-activated adhesive on said base layer, which is activated when fixating the at least two footwear parts on the base layer.

Hereby, it is achieved that the at least two footwear parts may be adhered to the base layer in a relatively uncomplicated manner, when the footwear parts have been positioned, at which point in time the adhering may be established by activating the adhesive, which may be done in various manners. It is noted that in case one of the two at least two footwear parts is overlapping the other and it is intended to fixate these two at e.g. the overlap as well, the overlap part of at least one of the at least two footwear parts may have been applied with adhesive in advance or in connection with the positioning of the footwear parts. When the non-activated adhesive of the base layer is activated, the adhesive of the overlap part(s) may be activated at the same time.

Said non-activated adhesive on said base layer may be activated using friction, pressure, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat transfer or any combination hereof.

Heat transfer may be applied by heat conducting or heat conduction.

The non-activated adhesive is defined as an adhesive that has not yet been activated. Adhesives may be non-reactive glue e.g. hot-melt adhesives including thermo-polymer, polyamide, polyesters, polyurethane, polyolefins etc..

Hot melt glues may consist of one base material with various additives. The composition is usually formulated to have a glass transition temperature (onset of brittleness) and a suitable high melt temperature as well.

The hot-melt adhesive may have a Tg (Tg: Glass transition temperature) between <NUM> degrees Celsius and <NUM> degrees Celsius, such as between <NUM> degrees Celsius and <NUM> degrees Celsius, such as between <NUM> degrees Celsius and <NUM> degrees Celsius, such as between <NUM> degrees Celsius and <NUM> degrees Celsius, such as between <NUM> degrees Celsius and <NUM> degrees Celsius, such as between <NUM> degrees Celsius and <NUM> degrees Celsius.

An advantage of applying heat to the process is that it is possible to control the adherence of adhesive to leather. The temperature is raised as the adhesive is applied to the leather and/or base layer as e.g. a web and needs to be heated in order to melt and facilitate a strong mutual bonding between the leather pieces/layers.

The pressure P applied may be at least <NUM> bar, such as at least <NUM> bar, such as at least <NUM> bar, such as at least <NUM> bars. Pressure should be below a pressure where the leather is damaged or where the bonding is not performed according to intentions. An upper pressure could e.g. be <NUM> bar, where 1bar equals 100kPa.

An advantage of applying pressure to the leather during heating of the leather is that the temperature of the leather may be lower than if not applying pressure. The lower temperature is an advantage as the leather may not be burned and it will further keep the leather in the right shape with a minimum of shrinkage. If the temperature is too high, the leather may lose its moisture and therefore turn hard and wavy and thereby loose the flexibility and softness of the leather.

Leather layers comprising said non-activated adhesive may have a water vapor permeability of above <NUM>/cm2/hour, such as above <NUM>/cm2/hour, such as above <NUM>/cm2/hour.

Hereby, the material allows liquid water (perspiration) to transport away from the skin to the outside, thus allowing comprehensive comfort to the wearer. Breathability and water vapor permeability may be used interchangeably and may be evaluated by suitable methods for determining water vapor permeability of leather. Standard methods such as SATRA TM <NUM> may be used to test the water vapor permeability. Briefly, the measurement may be of a test piece of material fixed over the opening of a jar. Mass of the moisture passing through the test piece in the jar is weighted and water vapor permeability can be calculated.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the positioning of said at least two footwear parts on said base layer may be performed by a robotic pick and place apparatus, e.g. by sequentially picking each shoe part and placing it on the base layer at a predefined position and possibly with a predefined orientation.

Hereby, it is achieved that when an empty base layer has been provided, possibly held by a fixture, the robotic pick and place apparatus may, controlled by control software of an e.g. central or local control unit, pick a first one of the at least two footwear parts from e.g. a local store and place it on the base layer, possibly at a predetermined position and possibly with a predetermined orientation. Subsequently, the robotic pick and place apparatus may, controlled by the control software, pick a second one of the at least two footwear parts from e.g. a local store and place it on the base layer, possibly at a predetermined position and/or with predetermined orientation or possibly at a predetermined position and/or with a predetermined orientation in relation to the first footwear part. In case more than two footwear parts have to be placed, these steps may be repeated.

It is noted that the footwear parts may be supplied to the robotic pick and place apparatus in the order, in which they have to be placed and that they in this manner are being identified to the robotic pick and place apparatus. It is also a possibility that the individual types of footwear parts are stored in individual e.g. store compartments, known to the control system and that the robotic pick and place apparatus in this manner may be controlled to pick the right footwear parts in the right order. A still other possibility is that the individual types of footwear parts are provided with identifications, e.g. numbers, bar codes, RFID devices, etc. that are readable by the robotic pick and place apparatus and that the robotic pick and place apparatus in this manner identifies the correct footwear part to be picked, e. the correct type, the right size, the right colour, left or right type, etc..

The at least two footwear parts may be stacked on the base layer and/or a plurality of said base layers may be stacked.

Hereby, improvements may be achieved as regards efficiency. For example, it is noted that empty fixture frames may advantageously be stacked, whereby the job of mounting a base layer in each of these may be facilitated, and that the such prepared fixture frames may also be stacked, ready to be added to e.g. an input of the manufacturing line. In a similar manner, the fixture frames that have travelled through the processing may be stacked, e.g. after being relieved of surplus base layer material, etc. and be made ready to be re-introduced in the manufacturing liner.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the positioning of said at least two footwear parts on said base layer may be performed using input from a visual detection system, e.g. using a camera, a vision system or the like.

Hereby, it is achieved that the positioning of the first as well as the subsequent footwear parts may be placed optimally as well as efficiently, e.g. using not only a possible reference and/or a fixture frame as reference, when placing the first footwear part, but also using an already placed footwear part, when placing a subsequent footwear part, so that e.g. a possible overlap between the parts will have an optimal size in view of e.g. a stitching seam or the like and whereby the finished product may have the required characteristics as regards e.g. strength as well as appearance.

Said automated stitching may be made by an automated stitching device.

Hereby, it is achieved that the connection of the footwear parts may be made relatively quickly, efficiently and with the required precision, which in the prior art has not been possible, since an automated stitching of footwear parts, e.g. leather footwear parts has proven to be difficult to exercise and has turned out to have certain deficiencies, such as lack of precision, ill-fitting parts, etc. However, in connection with the invention, where a base layer is used and where the at least two footwear parts are fixated to this base layer, it has been shown that an automated stitching using an automated stitching device may be performed due to the footwear parts being fixated in the intended positions and whereby the desired quality and appearance of the completed footwear may be achieved.

It is noted that in connection with the automated stitching of the at least two footwear parts, of which at least one of these and possibly both may be a leather footwear part, the respective footwear parts may be positioned and fixated on the base layer such that considerations are made as regards possible shifting of the overlapping leather parts that may happen, when stitching, due to the thickness and inherent characteristics such as flexibility of the leather material. Thus, when determining, e.g. by control software and by a control system, the respective positions for the at least two footwear parts, adjustments may be made to anticipate any movements of the leather parts that may happen during the automated stitching, such that the finished result may come out as originally intended. In the prior art, such stitching is usually made manually by experienced persons, who during the machine stitching may make e.g. small adjustments and corrections to achieve a satisfactory result in spite of the movements of the leather material. According to this embodiment of the invention, initial adjustments may be made to anticipate such movements, whereby an automated stitching may be made of the at least two footwear parts that are fixated to the base layer.

It should be noted that an automated stitching device in this connection will be understood as being an e.g. motor driven stitching device, which furthermore may perform the stitching in an at least partly automatically controlled manner. The at least partly automatic control may be applied in a multitude of ways. For example, the stitching device may perform the stitching in accordance with a predefined route, defined in relation to the positions and/or orientation of the at least two footwear parts that have been fixated on the base layer. Thus, a stitching route or routes may be defined in e.g. an X-Y system on the base layer and implemented by the stitching device. Another possibility is that the automated stitching device is configured to stitch along a route, which has been indicated on at least one of the at least two footwear parts, e.g. with a visible marking, which may be followed by the stitching device, which may receive input data from an e.g. vision device, which may be combined with the stitching device or may be an independent device. Such a marking may instead be invisible, e.g. an electronical or magnetic trail, a radiation trail, etc. which may require corresponding sensing devices to control the stitching device. Also, it may be a possibility that the stitching device may be controlled to follow an edge of one of the at least two footwear parts and stitch in a predetermined distance to the relevant footwear part, in which case input data may be provided by vision equipment or other means of detecting and/or following e.g. an edge part. Other options for controlling or guiding the automated stitching are possible. Also, it may be a possibility that such options may be combined, for example in case a stitching route is defined as a route in relation to an X-Y system on the base layer, where furthermore it may be supplemented with a guiding system, for example using a vision system to effect a predefined distance to an edge of one of the footwear parts and/or which ensures that the stitching is started and/or stopped, when e.g. the at least two footwear parts are not overlapping.

According to an embodiment of the invention, said at least two footwear parts may subsequent to being positioned on said base layer be transportable by moving said base layer.

Hereby, the at least two shoe parts, when they are fixated, connected by stitching or even when they are not connected or fixated may be moved with precision and efficiently when the base layer is moved, no matter whether this is via a conveyor, via a robotic pick and place device or in any other suitable manner, including manual handling, for example in connection with manual workstations, where for example the base layer and the connected at least two footwear parts may be processed manually, e.g. in connection with 3D stitching, transfer to a last, corrective handling, inspection or the like. To this can be added the possibility of handling the base layer with the at least two footwear parts connected to the base layer for further process step. Here, it may be noted that in the first of a plurality of process steps the processes may be performed in a single plane, i.e. a 2D plane, for example stitching in a single plane as defined by the base layer held by a fixture and/or the base layer held in itself by an e.g. conveyor. Subsequent to being removed from e.g. the fixture, the base layer with the at least two footwear parts connected to the base layer may be handled and processed within a 3D space, where for example 3D stitching of the footwear parts may be performed to provide a spatial form of the footwear parts on the process path to provide a completed footwear. Furthermore, the base layer may be moved to a last for some of the later process steps, in particular for the steps relating to the application of a sole, for direct injection moulding of a sole, etc..

Said base layer may be transportable by moving said fixture, which may comprise conveyance arrangement.

Hereby, the at least two shoe parts carried by the base layer, no matter whether they are fixated, connected by stitching or even when they are not connected or fixated may be moved in an automated manner by moving the fixture, which via the conveyance arrangement may be connected to a conveyor arrangement. The conveyor arrangement may be a traditional conveyor belt, conveyor chain or the like, or may be a conveyor track or the like, upon which the fixture may be transported and/or guided. Other conveyor arrangements are possible.

Further, it is noted that the conveyance arrangement may be configured in such a manner that the fixture and thus also the base layer may be movable in relation to e.g. a conveyor, track or the like. Such a movement may be controllable by e.g. a control system and perform in an automated manner, e.g. in order to place the fixture in a suitable position, orientation, inclination, etc. for the actual processing step to be performed, e.g. for example when allowing a heat press to fixate the footwear parts by activating the adhesive and thus e.g. pressing from above as well as below. Another example may be tilting the fixture when allowing an automated stitching apparatus to grip on upper and lower side of the base layer to perform the stitching, etc. Thus, the conveyance arrangement may be configured to have several degrees or freedom, e.g. being able to rotate around vertical as well as horizontal axes, tilt sideways and/or lengthways, etc..

According to an embodiment of the invention, an identifier may be provided for identifying at least one of the base layer, the fixture frame and at least one of the at least two footwear parts.

Hereby, the identity of the actual piece of footwear being manufactured may be known, e.g. whether it is the fixture, the base layer or at least one of the footwear parts that are proceeding along the manufacturing line that is identified. Thus, when proceeding along the manufacturing line and through the processing steps, the control system may read the identity and perform the correct next step to be performed. Thus, it may for example be possible that the control system, when identifying the actual fixture, the actual base layer and/or an actual footwear part, may know that it is left hand shoe being made in size <NUM> with a specific colour and that the next step is addition of a facing. The control system may thus retrieve such a shoe part and place it in the correct position, where after the fixture may be conveyed further on for fixation of the facing and subsequent automated stitching of the facing to the assembly. Hence, it will be understood that due to the identifier, the actual footwear being made may be understood as effectively controlling the manufacturing and processing steps, e.g. being the actual controller itself, in that the specific steps being performed will depend on the actual identity of the footwear being manufactured.

Such identifiers may be RFID devices or similar electronic devices.

According to the invention, the automated stitching includes stitching at least part of one of said at least two footwear parts to the base layer.

Hereby, the automated stitching may be effected in a straightforward manner, e.g. by stitching through e.g. the at least two footwear parts as well as the underlying base layer. Further, it is achieved that parts of the base layer that in this manner is being stitched to the footwear parts that at least partly forms a footwear upper, may serve as a part of the completed piece of footwear.

The method may comprise removal of the base layer from the at least two footwear parts prior to completion of the footwear or trimming of the base layer prior to completion of the footwear.

Hereby, the at least two footwear parts, when having been connected by automated stitching and possibly after having been connected with further footwear parts, may be removed from the base layer and/or fixture at a suitable point in time, for example when stitching in a single plane, i.e. 2D stitching has been made and subsequent stitching in 3D is the next processing step and/or where the connected footwear parts are planned to be mounted on e.g. a last for the further processing steps. At these points in time, the base layer may possibly be removed totally or only parts of the base layer that may not be needed for the further processing and possible use in the completed footwear may be removed, e.g. in connection with a trimming of the surplus parts of the base layer and in connection with the removal of a possible fixture.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the base layer may be the lining of the footwear.

Hereby, the base layer may fulfil the function both as a based layer and as lining of the footwear. This will effectuate the process of shoe making as the step of adding a lining may not be necessary. Lining is defined as the material inside of the shoe that may come into contact with the entire foot; sides, top and heels. The lining may be any suitable material such as e.g. leather or fabric such as cotton and viscose and/or synthetic material like e.g. polyester, acrylic and elastane. Other material for cold weather shoes may also be used such as e.g. wool or lambskin.

There may be a further layer of lining e.g. as a middle layer between the base layer and the layer of leather. An advantage of a middle layer could be improved insulation, rigidity, durability or other advantages suitable for footwear.

The elongation at break of the base layer may be less than <NUM>%.

Suitably, the elongation at break of the base layer material (i.e. the elongation of the fabric when stretched to its breaking point) is less than <NUM>%, typically less than <NUM>%, or even less than <NUM>%.

A suitable test for measuring the elongation at break is ISO3376:<NUM>.

The base layer may be a reinforcing fabric with a tensile strength (breaking strength) above <NUM> N/mm, more typically above <NUM> N/mm, or even above <NUM> N/mm.

The ultimate tensile strength expressed in N/mm is the pulling force required to break a <NUM> wide sample of the material. A suitable test for measuring the ultimate tensile strength of the reinforcing fabric is ISO <NUM> : <NUM>.

The needle for stitching may be at least <NUM> in diameter.

Hereby, the needle is thick enough to pierce the leather without breaking the needle. Further, the needle may be spear shaped to help cut the leather as the stitch is being formed.

Examples of needles suitable for sewing leather may be needles such as e.g. <NUM> LR, <NUM> FFG/R, <NUM> LR, <NUM> FFG/R.

Hereby, by using needles with a coating, it is possible to reduce thermal and mechanical faults caused by the sewing needle. During sewing, the fabric resists the penetration of the needle. This frictional resistance between the needle and the fabric produces heat and it may cause the needle to overheat during high-speed sewing.

Sewing needles may be coated with different materials such as e.g. Cr (Chrome), PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) and TiN (Titanium nitride).

The type of thread used for sewing may for example be synthetic sewing threads, e.g. made from a material such as e.g. polyester or nylon threads.

Examples of threads used for sewing, according to embodiments of the invention, may be Amann Size <NUM>/<NUM>, <NUM>/<NUM> and <NUM>/<NUM>.

The stitching length may be more than <NUM> stiches per cm, such as <NUM> stiches per cm, such as <NUM> stiches per cm.

The method may further comprise inspection of said at least two footwear parts when said at least two footwear parts have been positioned on the base layer, when said at least two footwear parts have been fixated and/or when said at least two footwear parts have been connected by an automated stitching.

Hereby, it may be controlled that the respective manufacturing steps have been performed as intended, before proceeding to the next steps, and in case it turns out that non-acceptable tolerances are detected, corrective actions may be taken and/or the relevant inspected item may be removed from the processing for correction and/or reuse. The inspection may be made by means of vision means, camera means, radiation means, etc..

In a further aspect, the invention relates to a system for manufacturing footwear as specified in the appended independent claim <NUM>, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper part of said footwear, said system comprising.

wherein said base layer holding device configured for holding said base layer is a fixture frame.

At least one of said at least two footwear parts may be a leather footwear part.

According to the invention, said base layer holding device configured for holding said base layer is a fixture frame.

Hereby, the base layer, when held by such a fixture frame, may provide improved characteristics as regards e.g. strength, rigidity, load bearing capability, precision as regards positioning of e.g. footwear parts on it, etc. since the fixture frame may serve as a rigid frame or the like, by means of which the base layer may be e.g. tightened, for example to provide a planar surface, on which the e.g. footwear parts may be positioned with great precision. Furthermore, the fixture may facilitate the e.g. handling and/or transport of the base layer, with or without parts positioned on it.

In an embodiment of the invention, said fixture frame may comprise conveyance arrangements configured for transport of said fixture frame.

In an embodiment of the invention, said positioning device may comprise a robotic apparatus, e.g. a robotic pick and place apparatus.

In an embodiment of the invention, said positioning device may further comprise a visual detection system, e.g. comprising a camera, a vision system, etc..

In an embodiment of the invention, said adhering activating device may be configured for fixating said at least two footwear parts on said base layer in respective relative positions comprising an arrangement for activating non-activated adhesive, e.g. using friction, pressure, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat transfer or any combination hereof.

The pressure P applied may be at least <NUM> bar, such as at least <NUM> bar, such as at least <NUM> bar. Pressure should be below a pressure where the leather is damaged or where the bonding is not performed according to intentions. An upper pressure could e.g. be <NUM> bar, where 1bar equals 100kPa.

Said system may comprise a reference for positioning said at least two footwear parts on said base layer.

Said base layer and/or said fixture for the base layer may comprise said reference.

Said base layer may comprise an adhesive on at least a part of its surface.

The system may further comprise an applicator for applying adhesive to at least part of said base layer and/or at least part of at least one of said at least two footwear parts.

Said adhesive may be provided as a non-activated adhesive on said base layer and/or said at least one of said at least two footwear parts, which non-activated adhesive is activatable for fixating the at least two footwear parts on the base layer.

Said non-activated adhesive on said base layer and/or said at least one of said at least two footwear parts may be activatable using friction, pressure, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat transfer or any combination hereof.

Leather layers of said at least one of said at least two footwear parts comprising said non-activated adhesive may have a water vapor permeability of above <NUM>/cm2/hour, such as above <NUM>/cm2/hour, such as above <NUM>/cm2/hour.

Hereby, the material allows liquid water (perspiration) to transport away from the skin to the outside, thus allowing comprehensive comfort to the wearer.

Said positioning device for positioning said at least two footwear parts on said base layer may comprise a robotic pick and place apparatus, e.g. configured for sequentially picking each footwear part and placing it on the base layer at a predefined position and possibly with a predefined orientation.

Said robotic pick and place apparatus may comprise a vacuum gripper.

In this connection it is noted that when a robotic vacuum gripper is used, this may be equipped with a plurality of relatively small suctions cups or the like, e.g. arranged in an array corresponding to e.g. the size of footwear parts to be gripped. The individual suction cups or the like may be individually supplied with vacuum. Additionally, it is noted that a further axis of the vacuum gripper robot may be implemented by having the active suctions cups or the like, e.g. the suction cups actually gripping a footwear part, be controlled to be extended or in another configuration by having the inactive suction cups be controlled to be retracted, when gripping, positioning and/or moving etc. a footwear part. Hereby, a number of advantages may be achieved, e.g. that the inactive suctions cups or the like that are actually not involved in gripping a footwear part, will not be near or will at least be positioned a distance from the footwear part, thus making it easier to maneuver the vacuum gripper and/or the gripped footwear part, e.g. because the inactive suctions cups or the like are less likely to collide with other objects, for example a fixture for the base layer, conveyor parts or other parts involved in the processing. Hence, the robotic vacuum gripper may, when implemented in such a manner with a further axis, be used with greater delicacy, with greater precision and in general with greater degrees of freedom as regards e.g. the ability to turn or in general angularly maneuver a footwear part, position a footwear part near a frame or fixture for the base layer, utilize the available base layer area to a greater extent, etc..

Said system may be configured for stacking parts such as the at least two footwear parts on the base layer, a plurality of said footwear parts and/or a plurality of said base layers.

The system may comprise a visual detection system, e.g. having a camera, a vision system or the like for providing input for the positioning device.

Said automated stitching device may be configured for stitching at least part of one of said at least two footwear parts to the base layer and/or to the other one of said at least two footwear parts in an at least partly automatically controlled manner.

The system may further comprise a conveying device wherein said at least two footwear parts subsequent to being positioned on said base layer are transportable by moving said base layer.

Said fixture may comprise a conveyance arrangement.

Hereby, the at least two shoe parts carried by the base layer may be moved in an automated manner by moving the fixture, which via the conveyance arrangement may be connected to a conveyor arrangement. The conveyor arrangement may be a traditional conveyor belt, conveyor chain or the like, or may be a conveyor track or the like, upon which the fixture may be transported and/or guided. Other conveyor arrangements are possible.

In an embodiment of the invention, an identifier may be provided for identifying at least one of the base layer, the fixture frame and at least one of the at least two footwear parts.

Hereby, the identity of the actual piece of footwear being manufactured may be known, e.g. whether it is the fixture frame, the base layer or at least one of the footwear parts that are proceeding along the manufacturing line that is identified. Thus, when proceeding along the manufacturing line and through the processing steps, the control system may read the identity and perform the correct next step to be performed. Thus, it may for example be possible that the control system, when identifying the actual fixture, the actual base layer and/or an actual footwear part, may know that it is left hand shoe being made in size <NUM> with a specific colour and that the next step is addition of a facing. The control system may thus retrieve such a shoe part and place it in the correct position, where after the fixture may be conveyed further on for fixation of the facing and subsequent automated stitching of the facing to the assembly. Hence, it will be understood that due to the identifier, the actual footwear being made may be understood as effectively controlling the manufacturing and processing steps, e.g. being the actual controller itself, in that the specific steps being performed will depend on the actual identity of the footwear being manufactured.

According to the invention, the automated stitching device is configured for stitching at least part of one of said at least two footwear parts to the base layer.

The system may be configured for removal of the base layer from the at least two footwear parts prior to completion of the footwear or trimming of the base layer prior to completion of the footwear.

The base layer may be the lining of the footwear.

Hereby, the base layer may fulfil the function both as a base layer and as lining of the footwear. This will effectuate the process of shoe making as the step of adding a lining may not be necessary. Lining is defined as the material inside of the shoe that may come into contact with the entire foot; sides, top and heels. The lining may be any suitable material such as e.g. leather or fabric such as cotton and viscose and/or synthetic material like e.g. polyester, acrylic and elastane. Other material for cold weather shoes may also be used such as e.g. wool or lambskin.

The system may further comprise a quality inspection system for inspection of said at least two footwear parts, e.g. when said at least two footwear parts have been positioned on the base layer, when said at least two footwear parts have been fixated and/or when said at least two footwear parts have been connected by an automated stitching.

The invention will be explained in further detail below with reference to the figures of which.

<FIG> illustrates an exemplary footwear which may be made within the scope of the invention. The exemplified footwear is a shoe <NUM> comprising an upper <NUM> wherein the upper <NUM> comprises footwear defining parts. The footwear defining parts are exemplified with a vamp <NUM> located as the section of the upper that covers the front of the foot as far back as the join of the quarter; a tongue <NUM> defined as a strip of material located under the laces of a shoe. The tongue may sit on the top center part of the shoe on top of the bridge of the foot and may be attached to the vamp <NUM>; quarter <NUM> located on the rear and sides of the upper that covers the heel that are behind the vamp. The heel section of the quarter <NUM> may be strengthened with a stiffener, which helps support the rear of the foot. Further, a toe cap <NUM> wherein toe caps can take various forms, but types may be complete replacements for the front upper of the shoe; stitched over toecaps that add an extra layer to the upper; solid toe caps for protection, such as steel toe caps. Stitch over toe caps may be decorative in nature. Also, an outer counter <NUM> located at the heel of the shoe as a stiff piece of material positioned between the lining and upper that helps maintain the shape of the shoe, eyelets <NUM> as the holes for shoelaces and facing <NUM> being the part of the shoe where the shoelace eyelets are located.

The illustrated shoe <NUM> may preferably comprise a lining <NUM> on the inner side of the quarter.

The illustrated shoe parts may preferably be attached to a sole <NUM> e.g. by adhesion, gluing, stitching, injection molding or any relevant methods of attaching a sole. The sole may comprise several parts and layers e.g. inner sole <NUM>, mid-sole (not shown) and outer sole <NUM>.

The shoe may of course comprise other not-shown features and parts and the shapes and configuration of the parts may be different. Most shoes may comprise more than <NUM> or <NUM> shoe defining parts.

<FIG> illustrates a top view of parts of an upper e.g. of the shoe of <FIG>, comprising a vamp <NUM>, a toe cap <NUM> and facing <NUM> made within the scope of the invention. The vamp <NUM> and toe cap <NUM> are assembled by fitting the toe cap <NUM> on top of the vamp <NUM> as illustrated and then attached together. The vamp and facing are in the same way assembled by fitting the facing <NUM> on top of the vamp <NUM> as illustrated and then attached to each other.

The attachment of the leather pieces may be mediated by adhesion e.g. glue or any suitable adhesions but may also be a more lose attachment or they may only be loosely assembled to each other.

The leather pieces may then be sewed together as illustrated with a stitching line <NUM> by the method according to the invention. Stitching methods applied may be any methods relevant for stitching shoes.

<FIG> illustrates in a similar manner a top view of parts of an upper e.g. of the shoe of <FIG>, where the parts comprise a vamp <NUM>, a toe cap <NUM>, a facing <NUM> and a quarter <NUM> made within the scope of the invention. The vamp <NUM> and toe cap <NUM> are assembled by fitting the toe cap <NUM> on top of the vamp <NUM> as illustrated and then attached together. The vamp and facing are in the same way assembled by fitting the facing <NUM> on top of the vamp <NUM> as illustrated and then attached to each other.

The quarter <NUM> and the vamp <NUM> are in the same way assembled by fitting the quarter <NUM> on top of the vamp <NUM> at one side of the vamp as illustrated and then attached to each other.

The leather pieces may then be sewed together as it is illustrated with a stitching line <NUM> by an embodiment of the method according to the invention. Stitching methods applied may be any methods relevant for stitching shoes.

As regards the embodiment shown in <FIG>, it is noted that subsequent to e.g. stitching of footwear pieces, the part of the quarter <NUM> pointing downwards in <FIG> may be assembled with the other side of the vamp <NUM>, requiring that the parts are formed <NUM>-dimensionally to essentially take the form of a shoe upper and stitched together as indicated with the stitching line <NUM> on the lower part of the quarter <NUM>.

It will be understood that other shoe parts in addition to the parts illustrated in <FIG> and <FIG> may be introduced in similar manners and assembled with the illustrated parts to eventually form an upper of a shoe.

<FIG> illustrate in perspective views an exemplary base layer <NUM>, whereon footwear parts such as a vamp <NUM> and a toe cap <NUM> are positioned in accordance with various embodiments of the invention. <FIG> illustrates a lining <NUM> being used as a base layer and with shoe parts exemplified by a vamp <NUM> and a toe cap <NUM> positioned on the base layer <NUM>. For reasons of clarity, only a few footwear parts are illustrated in <FIG>, but it will be noted that further footwear parts may be positioned on the base layer, e.g. corresponding to the footwear parts as illustrated in <FIG> and <FIG> and/or <FIG>, which footwear parts may be processed in essence as described in the following concerning the various embodiments of the method according to the present invention. However, it is further noted that any relevant shoe parts or even accessories in the shoe manufacturing may be relevant in connection with the invention. After being positioned on the base layer <NUM>, e.g. by means of for example a pick and place robot, the vamp <NUM> and the toe cap <NUM> are being fixated on the base layer, for example by activating an adhesive on the base layer. The non-activated adhesive may be activated by using pressure, friction, ultrasonic radiation, infrared radiation, heat, possibly in any combination. When the footwear parts have been fixated, the base layer <NUM> comprising the fixated footwear parts can now - possibly after being inspected as regards quality - be transported to e.g. an automated stitching station, where the footwear parts are being connected to the base layer and/or each other by an automatic stitching process as will be described in further detail below.

<FIG> corresponds to <FIG>, but here it is illustrated that a quarter <NUM> has been positioned at one side of the vamp <NUM>, fixated on the base layer <NUM>, etc. in such a manner that by a subsequent stitching process the footwear parts are being connected together and to the base layer.

<FIG> corresponds essentially to the scenario as shown in <FIG>, but in <FIG> it is illustrated that the base layer material is exploited to a greater degree by placing footwear parts, e.g. a further vamp <NUM>, toe cap <NUM> and quarter <NUM>, forming a further footwear upper, where these further parts form a mirrored version of the first mentioned footwear parts such that the first may relate to a left footwear upper and the second may relate to a right footwear upper. Another advantage may be that a pair of footwear uppers, e.g. relating to one and the same size, type, etc. in this manner may be processed simultaneously and/or following each other in the manufacturing process.

<FIG> illustrates the footwear upper parts as shown in <FIG> after they have been connected by stitching and where the superfluous parts of the base layer have been trimmed off, thus leaving essentially only the base layer <NUM> that is on the underside of the parts <NUM>, <NUM> and <NUM>. Hereafter, a folding of the connected footwear parts into a 3D upper may be performed as illustrated by the arrow A. Subsequently, the footwear upper may be connected and stitched as it has been explained above in connection with <FIG>. It is noted that the base layer material will thus serve as a lining in the manufactured footwear upper.

<FIG> illustrate an example of initial or preparatory steps of an automatic stitching method according to an embodiment of the invention, wherein a fixture <NUM> is utilized in the processing steps as it will be explained in detail further below. The fixture may be configured in a multitude of variations. However, in order to elucidate the invention, the fixture <NUM> is here illustrated, seen in a perspective view partly from above and partly from the side, as being an essentially rectangular fixture frame <NUM> as shown in <FIG>, which fixture frame serves to withhold a base layer. Further, it is noted that the fixture <NUM> comprises or can be combined with conveyance arrangements <NUM> (indicated in <FIG>), e.g. placed underneath the fixture frame <NUM> and configured for facilitating a controllable transport, e.g. along a conveyor, along a track or in any other suitable manner.

As indicated in <FIG>, the fixture <NUM>, e.g. the fixture frame <NUM> is configured for holding a base layer <NUM>. For example, the fixture frame <NUM> may have a clamping function, e.g. by being openable and closable, and a base layer <NUM> may thus be gripped by the fixture frame <NUM> along the outer perimeter of the base layer. The base layer <NUM>, which is an essentially non-stretchable material, is held by the fixture <NUM> in such a manner that the base layer <NUM> extends in a plane defined by the fixture and essentially without deviating from the plane at locations within the inner of the fixture frame. As further indicated in <FIG>, a reference <NUM> may be defined in the <NUM>-dimensional plane defined by the base layer <NUM>, e.g. for example at a corner of the fixture frame <NUM>, which reference may serve as reference point for the further processing, e.g. when positioning footwear parts, when stitching, etc. as it will be exemplified further below. The reference <NUM> may be defined in other manners, e.g. by having a marking on the base layer <NUM>, for example visible and/or detectable by e.g. vision equipment, detecting apparatus, etc..

In <FIG> it is shown that the fixture <NUM> with a base layer <NUM> mounted has been placed in a processing line and based on the reference <NUM> and in accordance with work instructions, e.g. control software, a footwear part such as e.g. a vamp <NUM> is positioned on the base layer <NUM> in a position and possibly with an orientation in accordance with the work instructions, e.g. the control software. The footwear part may for example be gripped and positioned on the base layer by a pick and place robot or another type of robotic apparatus.

In the next step, it is illustrated in <FIG> that a further footwear part, e.g. a toe cap <NUM>, has been positioned at least partly overlapping the previously positioned footwear part. The toe cap <NUM> may be positioned based on the reference <NUM> and in accordance with work instructions, e.g. control software, for e.g. a pick and place robot or the like. It is noted that the control software may receive input not only regarding the reference <NUM> but may also receive input as regards the actual position and/or orientation of the previously placed footwear part. It is noted that it is a possibility that the latter positioned part, e.g. the toe cap <NUM>, may be positioned based alone on the position of the former positioned part, e.g. the vamp <NUM>. A combination may be preferable, though.

Furthermore, it is indicated in <FIG> that an identifier <NUM> may be arranged on the fixture <NUM>, e.g. on, at or in the fixture frame <NUM>. Instead or in addition such an identifier <NUM>' may be arranged in connection with the base layer <NUM>. Further, it is noted that the identifier, which in such case will be referred to as <NUM>", instead or additionally may be arranged in connection with the footwear parts, e.g. on or in one or more of the footwear parts.

Hereby, the fixture, the base layer with the parts being positioned on it and/or the footwear part(s) may be e.g. tracked along a processing line and in case a control system has been provided with information concerning the involved identifiers, the relevant processing may be performed in accordance with e.g. a predefined set of specifications as the parts proceed along the processing line. Further, it is noted that the use of such identifiers may allow that e.g. a particular fixture, base layer and/or footwear parts may be removed from e.g. the processing line and later added again, at which stage the identifier may be read by a reader and an e.g. status of steps already performed may be provided to the control system as well as the actual characteristics of the work in progress.

As an example, it may be mentioned that the identifier devices may be RFID devices or any other suitable electronically readable devices.

Furthermore, it should be noted that the exemplary footwear parts shown in <FIG>, e.g. a vamp <NUM> and a toe cap <NUM>, are for illustrative purposes only and that other footwear parts may be used as exemplary footwear parts such as shown and explained in connection with <FIG>, <FIG> and <FIG>. Thus, it will also be understood that a fixture <NUM> with a base layer <NUM> may be utilized when positioning footwear parts for a single footwear upper, e.g. as it has been illustrated in <FIG>, but that advantageously a pair of footwear uppers may be processed on a single fixture with a base layer such as it has been explained with reference to <FIG>. Further configurations are possible, e.g. with a single fixture frame <NUM> and its associated base layer <NUM> carrying parts for more than two footwear uppers, etc. if the sizes permits. Even further, as mentioned above, it should be noted that the base layer <NUM> may be utilized in a completed footwear upper as a lining <NUM>.

In <FIG> a possible outlay of a module-based manufacturing line <NUM> according to an embodiment of the invention is illustrated, seen from above. Here, a number of modules <NUM>-<NUM> are shown, which may be utilized in connection with a manufacturing line for footwear and where e.g. footwear parts, materials, etc. necessary for the manufacture as well as subparts of the e.g. footwear may be transported along the manufacturing line <NUM>, e.g. generally from left to right in <FIG>, while manufacturing steps, handling, etc, are being performed along the line <NUM>. As illustrated in <FIG>, the transport, e.g. conveying may take place along the hatched route and as illustrated with the arrows as it will be further elucidated in the following.

It should be noted that the respective modules are configured with interfaces, e.g. clear mechanical, pneumatic, electronic and/or communication interfaces, thereby enabling a quick reconfiguration of the modules and the line <NUM> to accommodate manufacture of e.g. new or changed products, to enable additional modules to be included, e.g. a further workstation for automatic stitching, etc..

The module <NUM> is a module for a stacking device, where stacks of e.g. footwear parts, base layers, etc. S <NUM>, S2, S3 and Sn may be fed to the line. In particular, the module <NUM> may handle stacks of fixtures <NUM>, each comprising a fixture frame <NUM> and a base layer <NUM> that may be a lining material <NUM>, which e.g. one by one are fed to the manufacturing line <NUM>. From this module <NUM> for a stacking device the objects may be forwarded to different locations via a module <NUM> for <NUM>-way transfer as illustrated by the arrows, e.g. moved across the module <NUM> to the next module <NUM> or directed to the module <NUM>, e.g. a work station, at the side. Also, the module <NUM> for <NUM>-way transfer may serve to forward objects from the module <NUM>, e.g. a work station, to the next module <NUM>. The module <NUM> at the side of the line may be a work station such as a module for a pick and place device, which furthermore may comprise a visual detection system to enable the pick and place device to e.g. grip a footwear part and place it at a specific location at/on a base layer. Furthermore, the pick and place device at the module <NUM> may e.g. grip one or more further footwear part(s) and place it (them) at a further specific location at the base layer and/or at overlapping positions on the first placed footwear part. Also, it should be noted that the pick and place device may place the footwear part(s) with a desired orientation, e.g. in relation to the base layer and/or in relation to a previously placed footwear part.

As it will be understood from the foregoing, the object being transported from the module <NUM> to the module <NUM> may be a base layer, upon which two or more footwear parts are positioned. At the module <NUM> a heat press device or another type of device for activating a layer of non-activated adhesive on the base layer is arranged for activating the adhesive as previously discussed, thereby fixating the footwear parts on the lase layer in the positions, in which they have been placed.

The base layer with the fixated footwear parts may next be forwarded to a module <NUM> having a process quality inspection system, e.g. having a vision or camera component for checking e.g. the positions of the footwear parts, the overlap, etc. In case there is any flaw, the specific base layer with footwear parts may proceed e.g. directly to the end of the line, may be redirected without being used or may be removed in another manner, in all cases possibly for being corrected, used for other purposes or in other manners reused.

When the base layer with footwear parts passes the module <NUM> having the process quality inspection system, it reaches a second module <NUM> having a <NUM>-way transfer as illustrated by the arrows. Here, the base layer with footwear parts may be directed to module <NUM>, e.g. a workstation having an automated stitching device in the form of e.g. a robotic stitching system, by means of which the fixated footwear parts and possibly the base layer are being connected to each other by stitching.

When having been stitched, the base layer with the fixated and now connected footwear parts is being transported to a module <NUM> for a stacking device, where a stacking of the processed base layers with the fixated and now connected footwear parts is being performed before being subjected to further processing in order to provide a completed piece of footwear. Here, the further processing may include removal of the base layer <NUM> with the connected footwear parts from the fixture frames <NUM>, whereafter the fixture frames may be prepared for being returned to the input of the manufacturing line <NUM>.

Furthermore, a module <NUM> is illustrated, which is a module for a fixture or jig preparation device, where for example base layers <NUM> may be mounted in or on the individual fixtures <NUM> and in general made ready to enter a manufacturing line <NUM> as illustrated in <FIG>. The module <NUM> may for example comprise a movable magazine, which can be moved to the module <NUM> when the magazine has been filled with fixtures <NUM>, which have been provided with new base layer material.

In <FIG> a further example of a manufacturing line <NUM> is illustrated. This corresponds in essence to the manufacturing line that has been shown in <FIG> and has been explained in connection with <FIG>. However, in <FIG> the fixture preparation module <NUM> is placed in front of the manufacturing line <NUM>. Further, the fixture preparation module <NUM> as well as the module <NUM> for a stacker device at the end of the manufacturing line <NUM> may comprise an elevator each. Even further, an underlying conveyor <NUM>, e.g. a conveyor belt, is arranged, leading from the module <NUM> to the fixture preparation module <NUM>. This underlying conveyor <NUM> may be arranged in lower parts of the respective modules, e.g. arranged under a conveyor <NUM> that transports fixtures in the manufacturing direction. Thus, fixture frames that arrive at the module <NUM> may be lowered down by the elevator and transported to the fixture preparation module <NUM> by the underlying conveyor <NUM>. Here, they are lifted upwards and may be prepared by removing any base material left and by mounting a new piece of base layer material in the fixture frame. This may be done by an operator <NUM>, who also pushes the now prepared fixture frame to the module <NUM> for a stacking device, ready to be used in the manufacture. The module <NUM> for a stacking device may hold a plurality, e.g. <NUM> or more, of fixture frames and may thus serve as a buffer.

The fixture handling and transport arrangement shown in <FIG> may be used in connection with other manufacturing line configurations as well, e.g. the examples shown in <FIG>, <FIG> and <FIG>.

In <FIG> an example of a schematically shown workstation <NUM> for gripping a footwear part and placing it at a specific location at/on a base layer is shown in an enlarged view from above. Here, it is shown that a fixture <NUM> comprising a base layer <NUM> have been transported to the workstation <NUM> by e.g. a conveyor <NUM>. The workstation comprises a pick and place robot <NUM>, which has a robot arm <NUM>, for example an articulated and extendable arm that may be rotated around a base part and which has a gripper such as a vacuum gripper <NUM>. It is noted that various types of robots may be utilized for picking and placing the footwear parts and it should be mentioned that for example a SCARA robot may be utilized. It is furthermore noted that in case a robotic vacuum gripper is used, this may be equipped with a plurality of relatively small suctions cups or the like, e.g. arranged in an array corresponding to e.g. the size of footwear parts to be gripped. The individual suction cups or the like may be individually supplied with vacuum. Additionally, it is noted that a further axis of the vacuum gripper robot may be implemented by having the active suctions cups or the like, e.g. the suction cups actually gripping a footwear part, be controlled to be extended or in another configuration by having the inactive suction cups be controlled to be retracted, when gripping, positioning and/or moving etc. a footwear part. Hereby, a number of advantages may be achieved, e.g. that the inactive suctions cups or the like that are actually not involved in gripping a footwear part, will not be near or will at least be positioned a distance from the footwear part, thus making it easier to maneuver the vacuum gripper and/or the gripped footwear part, e.g. because the inactive suctions cups or the like are less likely to collide with other objects, for example a fixture for the base layer, conveyor parts or other parts involved in the processing. Hence, the robotic vacuum gripper may, when implemented in such a manner with a further axis, be used with greater delicacy, with greater precision and in general with greater degrees of freedom as regards e.g. the ability to turn or in general angularly maneuver a footwear part, position a footwear part near a frame or fixture for the base layer, utilize the available base layer area to a greater extent, etc..

The workstation <NUM> may furthermore comprise a visual detection system to enable the pick and place device to operate, where the visual detection system may comprise a detector device <NUM> that may be connected to various detectors, cameras, vision devices in order to provide the desired to the e.g. robot <NUM>.

The robot <NUM> is controlled by software to pick individual footwear parts, e.g. leather parts and place these on the base layer <NUM> at specified positions, in a certain order, etc. as it has been explained above. These footwear parts may be picked from e.g. leather part supplies <NUM>. When the fixture <NUM> with the base layer <NUM> has received for example two assemblies <NUM> of footwear parts, it may be transported further on in the processing line, e.g. to the module <NUM> for activating adhesive or to another module. Also, it may be parked for a longer or shorter time until processing capacity is ready, for example at the workstation <NUM> that may also serve as a buffer.

In <FIG> an example of a schematically shown workstation <NUM> for automated stitching is shown in an enlarged view from above. Here, it is shown that a fixture <NUM> comprising a base layer <NUM> and whereon for example two assemblies <NUM> of footwear parts are fixated has been transported to the workstation <NUM> by e.g. a conveyor <NUM>.

The workstation <NUM> comprises a schematically illustrated automated stitching apparatus <NUM>, which is arranged in connection with a gantry device <NUM>, possibly a gantry robot, in such a manner that relative movement in the transverse as well as the conveyor direction (the longitudinal direction) is facilitated. Thus, the footwear parts of the e.g. two assemblies <NUM> may in this manner be stitched to the base layer <NUM> and to each other.

The workstation <NUM> may furthermore comprise a visual detection system to enable the automated stitching apparatus <NUM> to operate, where the visual detection system may comprise a detector device <NUM> that may be connected to various detectors, cameras, vision devices in order to provide the desired control signals to the e.g. gantry device <NUM> and the automated stitching apparatus <NUM>. These are controlled by software to e.g. perform a stitching along predefined routes, along certain edges of the footwear parts or in any other manner to provide a predefined stitching of the footwear parts. When the stitching of the two assemblies <NUM> of footwear parts have been performed, the fixture <NUM> with the base layer <NUM> and the two assemblies <NUM> of footwear parts may be transported further on in the processing line, e.g. to the module <NUM> for further processing. However, it may be parked for a longer or shorter time until processing capacity is ready, for example at the workstation <NUM> that may also serve as a buffer.

In <FIG> a possible outlay of a continuation of a module based manufacturing line <NUM> according to an embodiment of the invention is illustrated, seen from above. Here, the modules are illustrated as a continuation of modules e.g. from a series of modules <NUM> that may be a series of modules as illustrated in <FIG>. It may also be a continuation of the illustrated modules to other manufacturing processes relevant for footwear making.

In <FIG> a further example of a manufacturing line <NUM> is illustrated. This corresponds in essence to the manufacturing line that has been shown in <FIG> and has been explained in connection with <FIG>, but in <FIG> it is exemplified that quality inspection may be performed at different steps in the manufacturing line <NUM>. In <FIG> it was shown that a module <NUM> for process quality inspection was placed following the module <NUM> for activation of adhesive. As shown in <FIG>, the module <NUM> for process quality inspection may instead be placed following immediately after the automated stitching has been performed, e.g. after the module <NUM> for automated stitching and the module <NUM> for <NUM>-way transfer. It will be apparent that a process quality inspection may be performed at both of these exemplified positions, at only one of these and/or at any other suitable position.

Furthermore, it should be noted that other configurations of the various modules <NUM>-<NUM> are possible in addition to the configurations exemplified in the figures. For example, it is noted that whereas is it shown that the modules <NUM> and <NUM> relating to the robotic positioning of shoe parts on fixture frames holding base layer and the automated stitching, respectively, are exemplified as stations, where the objects are being removed from a main process line and are being processed in e.g. a loop configuration, it is a possibility that these operations may be performed as inline processes, e.g. being performed in the main process line without being looped out.

In <FIG> a further example of a configuration of a manufacturing line <NUM> is illustrated. This corresponds in essence to the manufacturing line that has been shown in <FIG> and has been explained in connection with <FIG>, but here it is further shown that the output from the module <NUM>, e.g. base layers with stitched footwear parts that have been stitched in a <NUM> dimensional plane and where e.g. the surplus base layer has been trimmed so that the remaining base material may serve as lining, is being forwarded to a further 3D processing <NUM>. This 3D processing <NUM> may e.g. include closing the footwear uppers by stitching them together as it has been explained above, e.g. in connection with <FIG> and may further comprise attaching Strobel material to the 3D upper in advance of e.g. injection of sole material. Further processes may be performed here at <NUM>, as it will be apparent to a person skilled within the field of footwear manufacture. Next, the completed footwear upper is forwarded to a sole attachment process, such as for example a direct injection production (DIP) <NUM> and related operations, resulting in a completed piece of footwear <NUM>.

Claim 1:
A method of manufacturing footwear, said footwear comprising at least two footwear parts, e.g. shoe parts, which footwear parts are at least partly connected together by stitching for forming at least part of an upper (<NUM>) part of said footwear, said method comprising
- providing a base layer (<NUM>),
- providing a fixture frame (<NUM>) for said base layer (<NUM>),
- arranging the base layer (<NUM>) to be held by said fixture frame (<NUM>),
- providing said at least two footwear parts and positioning said at least two footwear parts on said base layer (<NUM>),
- fixating said at least two footwear parts on said base layer in respective relative positions corresponding to predefined connected positions,
- connecting said at least two footwear parts with each other by an automated stitching, wherein the automated stitching includes stitching at least part of one of said at least two footwear parts to the base layer (<NUM>), and
- further processing the at least two footwear parts in connected form to provide said footwear.