Patent Description:
It concerns in particular the industries of cosmetic, dermatological products, and the industry of hygiene and personal care products.

Peptides have an important signal function and coordinate many biochemical processes. As a result, they have long become unavoidable and promising active ingredients, particularly in the cosmetic industry, where new compounds are constantly being searched that can beautify the skin and the appendages, namely to improve their general condition.

Numerous peptides or peptide mixtures having properties on the dermal extracellular matrix and thus having anti-aging applications have already been proposed, in particular by the Applicant, such as the Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) sold under the trademark MATRIXYL®, the Pal-GHK/Pal-GQPR mixture (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) sold under the trademark MATRIXYL® <NUM>, the Pal-KMO2K sold under the trademark MATRIXYL® Synthe'<NUM>® (MO2 corresponding to a dioxygenated methionine) or more recently the Pal-K(P)HG (having a proline grafted on a lysine) sold under the trademark MATRIXYL®Morphomics™. Other known peptides are mentioned below in the description.

In the general class of peptides, there are the cyclic peptides (or cyclopeptides). Many of them have been discovered in nature. They can also be synthesized in laboratories. Their length varies from two amino acid residues to several hundred. They have found many applications in medicine and biology.

The simpliest are peptides having neither -NH<NUM> terminal group nor terminal COOH group, these two terminal groups having reacted together to form a peptide bond and thus having closed the peptide backbone. There are also some cyclic peptides for which the covalent bond is created between the terminal amine and a side chain or between the terminal carboxyl and a side chain or between two side chains, which makes the peptide molecule partially cyclic.

Cyclic peptides have a number of advantages over conventional peptides. For example, they are insensitive to exo-peptidases which attack the linear peptides by the C and/or N terminal ends to degrade them into amino acids. Cyclic peptides are thus more stable than their linear counterparts. Regarding their activity, due to the curvature of their skeleton and the lesser degree of freedom, many rotations of bonds are blocked, and cyclic peptides have side chains more available for interactions with external targets. The strength of the interactions with their target can thus be increased, the adjacent amino acids not disturbing the molecular interaction. This may give them increased bioavailability over linear peptides.

Plants or microorganisms represent a natural source of cyclic peptides (see, for example, the review of synthesis which lists plant cyclopeptides: "<NPL>). Therefore, cyclic peptides have also the advantage of being able to be produced by means of an eco-designed chemistry, from a natural material and without solvents dangerous for the environment and health.

In particular, flax seed oil (Linum usitatissimum L. ) is known to contain cyclic peptides. Flax is part of the Linaceae family. This annual herb is exploited in its entirety for its fiber and oilseeds. Its origin is uncertain. It would substantially come from Eurasia. Domesticated for a very long time (several thousand years ago, first trace <NUM>,<NUM> years ago), flax is now cultivated all over the world. Canada is the largest producer. Linseed oil contains many components. It is rich in triglycerides of unsaturated fatty acids, especially linolenic acid. It also contains mucilage, triterpenes and sterols, cyanogenic heterosides, lignans and proteins (including cyclic peptides). The following medical activities of linseed oil are especially described: laxative, softening on the irritation of the mucous membranes, anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antipyretic, preventive on the cardiovascular system, hormonal, antidiabetic and anticancer.

Some cyclic peptides of linseed oil (Linum usitatissimum L. ), a by-product of the flax industry, have been proposed in the context of medical applications: against neurodegenerative, hematological, inflammatory and viral infections, autoimmune diseases and cancer (<CIT>), to improve health by stimulating growth, cell cycle and weight gain, by controlling enteritis, fungal growth, modulating microorganisms of the gastrointestinal tract and inhibiting infiltration of inflammatory cells in intestinal mucosa (<CIT>), against osteoporosis (<CIT>) and for immunosuppressive therapy (<CIT>).

In addition, a review summarizes the cyclic peptides of plants used in the Chinese pharmacopoeia ("<NPL>).

In the field of active ingredients for cosmetics, MERCK has already sold RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-<NUM> as an anti-wrinkle active. This particular cyclic peptide obtained by synthesis (the Cyclo (<NUM>-aminocyclohexanecarbonyl-L-arginylglycyl-L-alpha-aspartyl-D-phenylalanyl, SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) was the subject of the patent application <CIT>. Other cyclic peptides for cosmetic treatment of skin have been disclosed for example in <CIT> and <CIT>.

The aim of the present invention is to provide cyclic peptides which may be provided in the form of an active ingredient, in particular for cosmetics, capable of improving the general condition of the skin and/or its appendages, and more particularly cyclic peptides active not only on the synthesis of the main molecules of the extracellular matrix but also on other complementary biological targets. In addition, the invention aims to provide cyclic peptides sufficiently effective to be used alone or in combination, in proportions of a few ppm, and that can be used in the form of topical composition, including cosmetic composition.

For this purpose, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides the use of at least one cyclic peptide as active component in a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and/or its appendages, said cyclic peptide consisting of at least five amino acids being constituted of at least one proline (Pro) and at least two phenylalanines (Phe), the other amino acids being chosen in the group comprising leucine (Leu), isoleucine (Ile), valine (Val), alanine (Ala), glycine (Gly), methionine (Met) and tryptophan (Trp); the methionine (Met), when present, being non-oxidized or oxidized. Moreover, according to this first aspect, said cyclic peptide comprises at most <NUM> amino acids, comprises at least one leucine and comprises at least two phenylalanines and/or at least two prolines.

Preferably, the cyclic peptides according to the invention are cyclic peptides formed from a single ring formed solely of a peptide backbone and having neither a terminal -NH<NUM> group nor a terminal COOH group, as according to the following formula I:
<CHM>.

As shown by the in vitro and in vivo results given below in the detailed description, the particular cyclic peptides according to the invention are of interest in the field of active ingredients for the cosmetic industry.

Indeed, they possess the following beneficial activities for the skin and its appendages:.

The decrease in synthesis of these molecules leads to poorer communication between melanocytes, keratinocytes and DEJ, and to less flexibility of the system. In contrast, an appropriate synthesis of these molecules helps to restore/strengthen the DEJ. Collagen IV forms a two-dimensional network and is one of the major components of the DEJ. Laminins are also contained in the basal layer and participate in the anchoring of cell surfaces to the basal lamina. Together, these two essential components of the DEJ ensure to the keratinocyte of the basal lamina a better anchoring and help maintaining the flexibility of the epidermis.

The stimulation of the syntheses of these proteins of the dermis and the DEJ makes it possible to obtain results on the embellishment and the general state of the skin, mainly on the level of the mechanical properties: a skin more dense, re-inflated, more firm, more tonic, more flexible and elastic, but also at the visual level with, consequently, a more homogeneous and smooth skin texture.

<NUM>) A reduction activity of the production of sebum by the sebocytes in order to reduce the size of the pores and to make them less visible (the skin appears smoother with a more regular grain), and where necessary in order to contribute to decrease the glossy appearance which is characteristic of an oily skin.

<NUM>) An activity of lowering the level of mediators of inflammation very present in microinflammatory phenomena which has the effect of reducing sensations of discomfort of sensitive skin and rednesses.

<NUM>) A modulation activity of the production of stratifin.

Stratifin is a recently discovered protein synthetised by the epidermis, which is found after in the dermis and acts negatively on its components. The production of this protein by the keratinocyte is increased in oxidizing conditions (UV-type stress for example) that are known to increase premature aging. After migration into the dermis, stratifin causes on the one hand the production by fibroblasts of proteases that attack the dermal proteins (MMP-<NUM> and -<NUM> in particular), and on the other hand, it reduces the production of mRNA collagen type I and fibronectin. Its increase is therefore linked to the degradation of the quality of the supporting tissues and to premature aging. It is therefore interesting to limit the production of stratifin.

<NUM>) A stimulating activity of the proteins involved in the proper functioning of the mitochondria.

These proteins participate in the production of energy, the transport of metabolites between the cytoplasm and the mitochondria, and the defense against oxidative stress. The synthesis of these proteins decreases with age (in quantity and quality). Therefore, fighting against skin aging involves the positive regulation of the production of these proteins.

The present invention can thus aim a cosmetic treatment intended to improve the elastic properties, the firmness, the texture and/or the radiance or brightness of the skin. This treatment can be selected from a treatment of wrinkles and fine lines, a smoothing, firming, restructuring, plumping, anti-sagging treatment, to reduce pore size (tightening) and/or to reduce the shine of the skin due to an excess of sebum and/or to reduce cutaneous micro-inflammations.

Other applications are also envisageable for the cyclic peptide(s) according to the invention, especially a moisturizing, slimming, detoxifying, but also anti-glycation, anti-radical, anti-fatigue, anti-undereye bags and/or dark circles, an action on the growth of hairs (head and body), an action on pigmentation, on the scalp, tensor effect etc. as preventive or curative.

According to preferred features, the cyclic peptide comprises particular amino acids and/or particular amino acid sequences, more particularly:.

Thus, said at least one cyclic peptide is according to the first aspect of the invention selected from the group comprising:.

According to the first aspect of the invention, preferably, as shown by the comparative results given below in the description, a mixture of at least two cyclic peptides is used, said at least two cyclic peptides being chosen from the group comprising the following three cyclic peptides:.

more particularly, a mixture advantageously comprising these three cyclic peptides, in particular a mixture comprising at least <NUM>% by weight, preferably at least <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably at least <NUM>% by weight, with respect to total weight of said mixture of cyclic peptides.

Preferably, the balance in% by weight relative to the total weight of said mixture of cyclic peptides comprises at least one cyclic peptide chosen from the group comprising:.

More particularly, the cyclic peptide mixture comprises:.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a mixture of cyclic peptides comprising:.

These cyclic peptide(s) may be manufactured by peptide synthesis or may advantageously be extracted from linseed oil (Linum usitatissimum L. ) with a suitable solvent, in particular an alcoholic solvent, for example vegetable ethanol, or any other solvent with low impact for human and environment, either as a mixture or alone after purification. A preparation method is given below in the detailed description.

Preferably, the cyclic peptides used according to the invention, alone or as a mixture, are partially oxidized, to sulfoxides or sulfone, preferably sulfoxides, and preferably slightly oxidized to sulfoxides, and more preferably being not oxidized.

Commonly, the cyclic peptide(s) may be combined with other active agents, at effective concentrations that can act synergistically or as a reinforcement of activity, such as the following agents: anti-aging, anti-wrinkles and fine lines, lightening, pro-pigmenting, moisturizing, hydrating, astringent, anti-seborrhea, slimming, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidants, acting on the radiance of the complexion, anti-glycation, volumizers, restructuring, anti-carbonylation, dermo-relaxants, anti-hair regrowth, acting on the stratum corneum, on the dermis-epidermis junction, on the production of protein HSPs, on the firmness, the elasticity, the tone of the skin, regrowth of hair (eyelashes, eyebrows for example), etc..

Particularly and advantageously, in the context of the use according to the first aspect of the invention and of the ingredient according to the second aspect of the invention, the cyclic peptide(s) may be associated with at least one active agent adapted to act in a complementary manner on the properties of the epidermis and/or the stratum corneum (for example protective of the cutaneous barrier and/or moisturizing).

Such additional active agent may be chosen from the group comprising: phospholipids, the various ceramides, sphingosine, phytosphingosine, glycosphingolipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, sterols (in particular those of canola and soybean), fatty acids (including linoleic acid, palmitic acid, lipoic acid, thioctic acid), squalane (especially of olives), triglycerides (especially of coconut oil), lanolin, alcohols from lanolin, lanosterol, vitamin D3, tocopheryl nicotinate, various oils (especially, argan, rose, baobab), ascorbic acid, N-acetyl cysteine and N-acetyl-L-serine, vitamin B3compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid), panthenol, pseudofilaggrin, arginine, serine, PCA salts (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), Centella asiatica leaf extract (titrated in madecassoside and asiaticoside), some plant extracts (roots of wild yam, chestnut, bud of cedar, solanaceae), extracts of plankton and yeast. The following actives sold by Sederma can also be mentioned: Venuceane™ (extract of the fermentation medium of Thermus thermophilus), Moist <NUM>™ (hydroglycolic extract of Imperata cylindrica roots), Dermaxyl™ (association of ceramide <NUM> and of the peptide Pal-VGVAPG), Senestem™ (from in-vitro cell cultures of Plantago lanceolata), Ceramide <NUM>™ (ceramide), Ceramide HO3™ (hydroxyceramide), Optim Hyal™ (oligosaccharides of acetylated glucuronic acids), Meiritage™ (association of extracts of Bupleurum falcatum, Astragalus membranaceus and Atractylodes macrocephalea roots), Revidrate™ (myristyl phosphomalate), Pacifeel™ (an extract of Mirabilis jalapa), Hydronesis™ (from the fermentation of Salinococcus hispanicus), NG unsaponifiables of shea butter™ and Citystem™ (from in-vitro cell culture of Marrubium vulgare).

Similarly, in a particular and advantageous manner, in the context of the use according to the first aspect of the invention and of the ingredient according to the second aspect of the invention, the cyclic peptide(s) can be associated with at least one active agent adapted to act on the reduction of sebum production by the sebocytes, the cyclic peptide(s) acting on the dermis, therefore on the reinforcement of the pore-supporting tissue and the additional active agent acting in reinforcement of the activity on sebum production. Thus, advantageously an ingredient is provided that is particularly active to beautify the skin's grain and therefore its radiance. Such additional active agent may be chosen from the group comprising: one or more pure molecules: an alkyl-phthalide or a plant extract comprising it, sulfur and its organic derivatives (for example S-carboxymethylcysteine), but also sulfur amino acids, cystine, cysteine, methionine, zinc and/or copper salts, for example the salts of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (Cuivridone® and Zincidone® from Solabia), retinoic acid, vitamin B6, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, ammonium lactate, aluminum hydroxy chloride, <NUM>-hydroxydecanoic acid, glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic, trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL®ECI by the company Sasol. Among the extracts of natural origin, there are in particular an argan oil, a clove extract, a Serenoa serrulata extract, a Ulmaire extract, a Cinchona succirubra bark extract, a Phellodendron extract, a meadowsweet extract, a Sophora extract, a Laminaria seaweed extract, a Porphyridium cruentum micro-algae extract enriched in zinc sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®, and kaolin (white clay).

Actives of this type are also sold by Sederma, in particular: Biodermine™ (bacterial culture filtrate rich in peptides), Sebosoft™ (sebacic acid in a polyacrylate gel), Sebomine SB12™ (a combination of lactoferrin, glucose oxidase, lactoperoxidase and potassium thiocyanate), Normaseb™ (fermented casein filtrate), Yeast Biomembranes™, Sebuless™ (an extract of Syringa vulgaris cell culture), Evermat™ (a combination of an Enantia chlorantha extract and oleanolic acid)) and ac. net ™ (a combination of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid).

Likewise, in a particular and advantageous manner, in the context of the use according to the first aspect of the invention and of the ingredient according to the second aspect of the invention, the cyclic peptide(s) can be associated with at least one astringent active to "mechanically" tighten the pores to further improve the immediate smoothing and homogenizing effect of the cyclic peptides. Such additional active ingredient may be chosen from the group comprising as pure molecules: certain aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride, dihydroxy aluminum, alum, aluminum acetate, allantoin dihydroxy aluminum; zinc phenolsulfonate of Interchemical, zinc sulfate, zinc oxide, tannic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid; as plant extracts: tannins, especially condensed or ellagic, extracts of horse chestnut, mauve, Hammamelis, oats, sweet almonds, althaea officinalis roots, burdock root, poison ivy, birch bark, horsetail, chamomile, scutellaria, cohosh roots, ulmaria, St. John's wort, willow, myrtle, a mixture of extracts of white ginger, horsetail, poison ivy, rosemary, yucca, extracts of acacia, elm, white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, gentian, cucumber, walnut, ratanhia, grapefruit, extract of many fruits of the Rosaseae family such as prunella, loquat, but also apple, pear, quince, the mountain ash, the hawthorn; immature persimmon, green banana, species extracts of the genus Myrica, chicory roots, blackcurrant berries, currant, blueberry, cranberry, sea buckthorn and goji.

Preferably, said additional active agent is at least one alkyl phthalide chosen from the group comprising sedanenolide, sedanolide and <NUM>-n-butylphthalide, preferably sedanenolide, or an extract of Apium graveolens seeds comprising a mixture of sedanenolide, sedanolide and <NUM>-n-butylphthalide, preferably a supercritical CO<NUM> extract, and preferably an extract comprising a mixture of alkyl-phthalides comprising the sedanenolide as the major compound (in% by weight relative to the total weight of alkyl-phthalides). An ingredient of this type is described in the patent application <CIT>. This active ingredient is advantageously capable of acting on two aspects, epidermis via a prodifferentiation of keratinocytes and on the production of sebum by the sebocytes. In-vitro and in-vivo results are given below in the description for this particularly advantageous combination.

The cyclic peptide(s) according to the invention may also be combined with at least one of the compounds chosen from vitamin B3 compounds, compounds such as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA, hyaluronic acid, peptides, especially N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl, Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), Pal-GHK, Pal-KMO2K, Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) and Pal-K(P)HG, which are conventional active ingredients used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

According to a third aspect, the present invention provides a composition comprising the ingredient according to the second aspect of the invention described above, such a composition that can be used in cosmetics or for a topical medical application for the care of skin, its appendages and mucous membranes.

According to a fourth aspect, the present invention also provides a non-therapeutic method for improving the aesthetic appearance of the skin comprising topically applying to the skin an effective amount of a cosmetic composition comprising the active cosmetic ingredient according to the second aspect of the invention described above.

The cyclic peptides according to the invention may be optically pure or may consist of L or D isomers or a mixture thereof. The naturally occurring L-isomers may be preferred. The peptides may be found in the form of salts.

The present invention encompasses also cyclic peptide derivatives (with modification and/or addition of a chemical function but without change in the carbon skeleton) and analogues (with modification and/or addition of a chemical function but with additionally a change in the carbon skeleton), complexes with other species such as a metal ion (eg copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others).

"Physiologically acceptable medium" means according to the present invention, without limitation, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles or a powder.

"Physiologically acceptable" means that the compositions are suitable for topical use in contact with the skin and scalp of mammals and more particularly of human, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, among others. This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms what is usually called the excipient of the composition.

The cyclic peptides used according to the invention may be solubilized in a lipophilic or hydrophilic matrix with, if appropriate, a solubilizer, depending on the future end application.

A composition according to the invention can be applied to all parts of the body, and more specifically according to the indication recommended on the face, body, neckline or scalp, in any form or vehicle known to the skilled persons in the art, particularly in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or in premix or be conveyed individually or premixed with vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macro-sponges, micro-sponges or nanosponges, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on polymers powdery organic, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines and other mineral or organic carriers.

In cosmetics in particular, applications can be proposed especially in the skincare ranges of the face, body, hair, and scalp and in make-up care ranges.

In general, the cyclic peptides according to the present invention can be used in any form, in a bound form, incorporated or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, and nanoparticles, or on macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibers, wools, and any material intended to come into contact with the skin and which may be used in clothing, underwear, day or night, handkerchiefs, or the tissues, in order to exert its cosmetic or therapeutic effect through this skin/textile contact and to allow a continuous topical delivery.

The CTFA ("<NPL>) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic ingredients usually used in the skincare and scalp care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions of the present invention.

Other additional skin care actives that are particularly useful can be found in Sederma's commercial literature and at www. com or www.

The following commercial actives can also be mentioned as examples: betain, glycerol, Actimoist Bio <NUM>™ (Active organics), AquaCacteen™ (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), Aquaphyline™ (Silab), AquaregulK™ (Solabia), Carciline™ (Greentech), Codiavelane™ (Biotech Marine), Dermaflux™ (Arch Chemicals, Inc), Hydra'Flow™ (Sochibo), Hydromoist L™ (Symrise), RenovHyal™ (Soliance), Seamoss™ (Biotech Marine), Argireline™ (nom commercial de l'acétyl hexapeptide-<NUM> from Lipotec), spilanthol or an extract of Acmella oleracea known under the trade name Gatuline Expression™, an extract of Boswellia serrata known under the name Boswellin™, Deepaline PVB™ (Seppic), Syn-AKE™ (Pentapharm), Ameliox™, Bioxilift™ (Silab), PhytoCellTec™Argan (Mibelle), Papilactyl D™ (Silab), Preventhelia™ (Lipotec), or one or more of the following active ingredient sold by Sederma : Subliskin™, Venuceane™, Moist <NUM>™, Vegesome Moist <NUM>™, Essenskin™, Juvinity™, Revidrat™, Resistem™, Chronodyn™, Kombuchka™, Chromocare™, Calmosensine™, Glycokin factor S™, Biobustyl™, Idealift™, Ceramide <NUM>™, Ceramide A2™, Ceramide HO3™, Legance™, Intenslim™, Prodizia™, Beautifeye™, PacifeelTM, Zingerslim™, Meiritage™, Senestem™, Sebuless™, Majestem™, Apiscalp™, Rubistem™, CitystemTM, Neonyca™, NG Insaponifiables de Beurre de Karité™, Majestem™, Hydronesis™, Poretect™ and Crystalide™, or mixture thereof.

Among plant extracts (in the form of conventional extracts or prepared by an in vitro method) that can be combined with the cyclic peptide(s) according to the invention, there may more particularly be mentioned extracts of Ivy, in particular English Ivy (Hedera helix), of Bupleurum chinensis, of Bupleurum falcatum, of arnica (Arnica montana L), of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), of marigold (Calendula officinalis), of sage (Salvia officinalis L), of ginseng (Panax ginseng), of ginko biloba, of St. -John's-Wort (Hyperycum perforatum), of butcher's-broom (Ruscus aculeatus L), of European meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria L), of big- flowered Jarva tea (Orthosiphon stamincus benth), of artichoke (Cynara scolymus), of algae (Fucus vesiculosus), of birch (Betula alba), of green tea, of cola nuts (Cola nipida), of horse-chestnut, of bamboo, of Centella asiatica, of heather, of fucus, of willow, of mouse-ear, of escine, of cangzhu, of chrysanthellum indicum, of the plants of the Armeniacea genus, Atractylodis platicodon, Sinnomenum, Pharbitidis, Flemingia, of Coleus such as C. Forskohlii, C. esquirolii, C. scutellaroides, C. xanthantus and C. Barbatus, such as the extract of root of Coleus barbatus, extracts of Ballote, of Guioa, of Davallia, of Terminalia, of Barringtonia, of Trema, of antirobia, cecropia, argania, dioscoreae such as Dioscorea opposita or Mexican, extracts of Ammi visnaga, of Siegesbeckia, in particular Siegesbeckia orientalis, vegetable extracts of the family of Ericaceae, in particular bilberry extracts (Vaccinium angustifollium) or Arctostaphylos uva ursi, aloe vera, plant containing sterols (e.g., phytosterol), Manjistha (extracted from plants of the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from plants of the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora mukul), kola extract, chamomile, red clover extract, Piper methysticum extract (Kava Kava™ from Sederma), Bacopa monieri extract (Bacocalmine™ from Sederma) and sea whip extract, extracts of Glycyrrhiza glabra, of mulberry, of melaleuca (tea tree), of Larrea divaricata, of Rabdosia rubescens, of Euglena gracilis, of Fibraurea recisa Hirudinea, of Chaparral Sorghum, of sun flower extract, of Enantia chlorantha, of Mitracarpe of Spermacocea genus, of Buchu barosma, of Lawsonia inermis L. , of Adiantium capillus-veneris L. , of Chelidonium majus, of Luffa cylindrica, of Japanese Mandarin (Citrus reticulata Blanco var. unshiu), of Camelia sinensis, of Imperata cylindrica, of Glaucium Flavum, of Cupressus sempervirens, of Polygonatum multiflorum, of loveyly hemsleya, of Sambucus nigra, of Phaseolus lunatus, of Centaurium, of Macrocystis pyrifera, of Turnera diffusa, of Anemarrhena asphodeloides, of Portulaca pilosa, of Humulus lupulus, of Coffea arabica, of Ilex paraguariensis, or of Globularia cordifolia, of Albizzia julibrissin, of Oxydendron arboretum, of Zingimber zerumbet smith, of Astragalus membranaceus, of Atractylodes macrocephalae, of Plantago lanceolata, of Leontopodium alpinum, of Mirabilis jalapa, of Marrubium vulgare, or of orchids.

The compositions of the present invention may include one or more additional peptides, including, without limitation, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-and hexapeptides and their derivatives. According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of the additional peptide, in the composition, ranges from 1x10-<NUM>% and <NUM>%, preferably from 1x10-<NUM>% and <NUM>%, preferably between 1x10-<NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight. The term "peptide" refers here to peptides containing <NUM> amino acids or less, their derivatives, isomers and complexes with other species such as a metal ion (e.g. copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others). The term "peptides" refers to both natural peptides and synthetic peptides. It also refers to compositions that contain peptides and which are found in nature, and/or are commercially available.

Suitable dipeptides for use herein include but are not limited to Carnosine (βAH), YR, VW, NF, DF, KT, KC, CK, KP, KK, TT, PA, PM or PP.

Suitable tripeptides for use herein include, but are not limited to RKR, HGG, GKH, GHK, GGH, GHG, KFK, KAvaK, KβAK, KAbuK, KAcaK, KPK, KMOK, KMO<NUM>K (MO<NUM> being a di-oxygenated sulfoxide methionine), KVK, PPL, PPR, SPR, QPA, LPA or SPA.

Suitable tetrapeptides for use as additional peptides herein include but are not limited to RSRK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), GQPR (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), KTFK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), KTAK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), KAYK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) or KFYK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>). Suitable pentapeptides include but are not limited to KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>). Suitable hexapeptides include but are not limited to GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) and VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>).

Other suitable peptides for use as additional peptides herein include but are not limited to: lipophilic derivatives of peptides, preferably palmitoyl (Pal) derivatives or myristoyl (Myr), and metal complexes as aforementioned (e.g. copper complex of the tripeptide HGG). Preferred dipeptides include for example N-Palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexadecylester (Calmosensine™, Idealift™ from Sederma), Pal-RT or Pal-KT (Sederma). Preferred tripeptide derivatives include for example Pal-GKH and Pal-GHK (from Sederma), the copper derivative of HGG (Lamin™ from Sigma), Pal-GHK, Lipospondin (N-Elaidoyl-KFK) and its analogs of conservative substitution, N-Acetyl-RKR-NH<NUM> (Peptide CK+), N-Biot-GHK (from Sederma), Pal-KAvaK, Pal-KβAlaK, Pal-KAbuK, Pal-KAcaK, or Pal-KMO<NUM>K (Matrixyl®synthe'<NUM>® from Sederma), Pal-KVK (Syn-Coll™ of DSM), and derivatives thereof.

Mention may also be made here of the anti-aging tripeptides of general formula X-Pro*-Pro*-Xaa-Y described in <CIT>application with Xaa selected from Leu, Arg, Lys, Ala, Ser, and Asp, at the N-terminus , X chosen from H, -CO-R1 and -SO2 -R1 and at the C-terminal end Y chosen from OH, OR1, NH <NUM>, NHR1 or NR1R2, R1 and R2 being, independently of one another, chosen from a alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy and aryloxy group, which may be linear, branched, cyclic, polycyclic, unsaturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated and/or sulfurized, said group possibly possessing in its backbone a heteroatom particularly O, S and/or or N, and Pro* corresponding to Proline, an analogue or derivative thereof; comprising, for example, Myr-PPL-OH and Myr-PPR-OH.

Here can further be cited also the propigmenting and/or pro-mec dipeptides and tripeptides of general formula X-(Xaa<NUM>)n-Pro*-Xaa<NUM>-Y disclosed in <CIT>, with n=<NUM>, <NUM> or <NUM>, Xaa<NUM> an hydrophobic aminoacid selected from Ala, Val, Met, Leu, Iso, Phe, Pro, and analogs and derivatives thereof; or a polar aminoacid selected from Ser, Thr, Tyr, Asp, Glu and analogs and derivatives thereof; and when n=<NUM> the two aminoacids Xaa<NUM> being the same or different; Xaa<NUM> being an hydrophobic aminoacid selected from Ala, Val, Met, Leu, Iso, Phe, and analogs and derivatives thereof, or a basic aminoacid selected from Arg, Lys, His, and analogs and derivatives thereof; at the N terminal end X being selected from H, -CO-R<NUM> and -SO<NUM>-R<NUM>; at the C terminal end Y being selected from OH, OR<NUM>, NH<NUM>, NHR<NUM> or NR<NUM>R<NUM>; R<NUM> and R<NUM> being, independently from each other, selected from an alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkoxy et aryloxy group, that can be linear, branched, cyclic polycyclic, saturated, unsaturated, hydroxylated, carbonylated, phosphorylated and/or sulfured, said group having or not an O, S and/or N heteroatom in its skeleton and Pro* corresponding to a Proline, analog or derivative thereof; comprising for example the following peptides Pal-SPR-OH, Pal-PPR-OH, Pal-QPA-OH, Pal-LPAOH, Myr-SPA-OH, Pal-PM-OH, Pal-PA-OH and Pal-PP-OH.

Suitable tetrapeptide derivatives for use as additional peptides according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) (from Sederma) and Pal-KTFK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) or Ela-KTFK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), Ela-KTAK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), Ela-KAYK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) or Ela-KFYK (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>). Suitable pentapeptide derivatives for use as additional peptides herein include, but are not limited to, Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) (available as Matrixyl® from Sederma), Pal-YGGFXaa (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) with Xaa being Leu or Pro, or mixtures thereof. Suitable hexapeptide derivatives for use herein include, but are not limited to, Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), Pal-GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>), Pal-HLDIIXaa with Xaa being Trp, Phe, Tyr, Tic, <NUM>-hydroxy-Tic ou Tpi (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) and derivatives thereof. The mixture of Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) (Matrixyl® <NUM>, Sederma) can also be mentioned.

The preferred compositions commercially available containing a tripeptide or a derivative include Biopeptide-CL™, Maxilip™, Biobustyl™, Procapil™ and Matrixyl®synthe'<NUM>® of Sederma. The compositions commercially available preferred sources of tetrapeptides include Rigin™, Eyeliss™, Matrixyl® Reloaded and Matrixyl <NUM>® which contain between <NUM> and <NUM> ppm of Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO: <NUM>) and an excipient, proposed by Sederma.

The following sold peptides can be mentioned as well as additional active ingredients:.

According to the invention, by "topical treatment" or "topical use" is meant an application that is intended to act at the place where it is applied: skin, muquous membrane, skin appendages.

The cyclic peptide(s) or the composition according to the invention can be applied locally to the targeted areas, for example using a canula-type applicator.

The "effective" amount depends on a variety of factors, such as age, condition of the patient, severity of the disorder or condition and the way of administration. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

In a cosmetic composition according to the invention, the cyclic peptide(s) to be present in an effective amount, are generally in proportions of between <NUM>% and <NUM>% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between <NUM>% and <NUM>%, more preferably between about <NUM> and <NUM>%, depending on the destination of the composition and the desired effect more or less pronounced.

All percentages and ratios used in this application are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at <NUM> unless otherwise specified.

As for example, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard application amount of a cream of <NUM>/cm<NUM>/day/person and for a lotion for the body of <NUM>/cm<NUM>/day/person.

According to other features, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may be associated with one or more other treatment methods for the skin, such as, for example, light therapy, heat or aromatherapy treatments.

According to the invention, it is possible to propose devices with several compartments or kits intended for the implementation of the method described above, and which could include, by way of example, and without being limiting, in a first compartment a composition containing at least the active according to the invention and in a second compartment an additional excipient and/or active, the compositions contained in said first and second compartments being here considered as a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or spread over time use, especially in one of the treatments defined above.

A composition according to the third aspect of the invention is suitable for a therapeutic treatment, in particular a treatment of the skin, in particular a skin deficient in molecules constituting the dermal extracellular matrix.

The following examples describe and illustrate certain aspects of the invention. They should not be perceived as limiting the disclosure, as they provide mainly information useful for its understanding and implementation. The detailed description is made with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:.

Flax seeds (Linum usitatissimum L. ) are milled in an oil press and then extracted with aqueous ethanol. The mixture is then stirred about <NUM> hour under blades or any other suitable means. The suspension is allowed to separate into two phases for <NUM> to <NUM> days. The fractions of spent oil (emptied of cyclic peptides) and ethanol are separated. The oily fraction is removed. The ethanol is evaporated under vacuum. The solid residue constituting the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention is collected, dried and grounded into a fine powder.

The mixture obtained by this method essentially consists of cyclic peptides and for the rest of lipids (fatty acids and triglycerides).

The cyclic peptides were separated and quantified by HPLC in the system: C18Column, with a <NUM> ammonium acetonitrile/formate gradient (detection at <NUM> that can be supplemented by mass spectrometry analysis).

<FIG> gives the qualitative and quantitative composition of the mixture:.

The Linusorb B1, B2, A1, A2 and A3 have in their sequence a methionine which can be oxidized according in particular to the origin of the seeds. In the mixture described above, part of the methionines is oxidized to sulphoxides, representing approximately <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of cyclic peptides.

Other examples of cyclic peptides according to the invention and of their preparation have also been described in patent applications <CIT> and <CIT>.

Active: <NUM> ppm of the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention, whose preparation is described in A) above.

Excipient: a fatty excipient, for example an esterified oil of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride type. Procedure: hot solubilization of the active and under middle stirring in the fatty excipient.

As disclosed above, the mixture according to the invention of cyclic peptides can advantageously be combined with a supercritical CO<NUM> extract of celery seeds (Apium graveolens).

An extract of this type, described by the Applicant in the patent application <CIT>, is prepared in the following manner: the celery seeds are crushed to obtain a particle size powder around <NUM>. This powder is then extracted with supercritical CO<NUM> at <NUM> bars of pressure and at <NUM>. Residual water that may be present in the final extract is then removed. The extract is in the form of an oily liquid comprising <NUM>% by weight of total phthalides comprising <NUM> alkyl phthalides: <NUM>% of <NUM>-n-butylphthalide, <NUM>% of sedanolide and <NUM>% of sedanenolide, in % by weight relative to the total weight of phthalides.

Actives: <NUM> ppm of the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention, the manufacture of which has been described in A) above + <NUM> ppm of the supercritical CO<NUM> extract of celery seeds (comprising at the end <NUM> ppm of total phthalides).

Excipient: a fatty excipient (for example an esterified oil of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride type) in the presence of a surfactant (for example a sorbitan trioleate).

Procedure: the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention manufactured in A) is hot solubilized and under medium stirring in a portion of the fatty excipient, in the presence of the surfactant. Without cooling, the remainder of the fatty excipient is added while continuing stirring to room temperature. The supercritical CO<NUM> extract of celery seeds is then solubilized in the mixture with medium agitation.

As an example, and for the description of the in-vivo tests and the galenic of the point D), it is these ingredients which have been used (between <NUM>% and <NUM>% of the ingredient <NUM> or the ingredient <NUM> in a cosmetic composition applicable to the skin).

They were conducted in three distinct phases developed below:.

The dermis of an <NUM>-year-old person contains four times more fragmented collagen than people aged <NUM>-<NUM> who have longer fibers. This fragmentation leads to reducing up to <NUM>% of the interactions that the cells maintain with their matrix. With age, dermal fibroblasts produce less supportive proteins, including less collagen-I, the most abundant protein in the skin, and also elastin.

This explains the structural and functional decline of the skin that becomes less dense, less organized, less dynamic. The weakening of the qualities of the supporting tissue causes a decrease in the visco-elastic characteristics of the skin: firmness, elasticity and tone are thus reduced by about <NUM>% per decade.

A cosmetic active capable of stimulating the production of components of the dermis matrix is therefore particularly searched.

Two complementary methods were used. Human fibroblasts of dermal origin (HDF) were seeded in a culture medium providing them the growth factors necessary for their physiology and their multiplication. When the cells reached confluency, they received the products to be tested. After three days of contact, the culture media were removed, and the amount of elastin produced by the cells was assayed by ELISA (n = <NUM>) and compared with that obtained with the product solvent (control) (Table <NUM> below).

In a second series of experiments, after a contact of seven days, the elastin fibers produced by the cells were highlighted by fluorescence immunocytology (IMF, n = <NUM>) on the fixed mats and quantified by analysis of the images. The results are expressed in arbitrary fluorescence units/<NUM><NUM> cells.

The number of cells was assessed using the Hoescht <NUM> method, which marks the DNA. A variance study and a Student t-test for non-paired series were performed to evaluate the significance of the results.

The production of collagen-I was demonstrated with the same methods (Table <NUM>).

These data indicate the potential of the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention in optical reinforcement of the tissues supporting the dermis, for more firmness and elasticity.

Laminins are important at the level of the DEJ. They are part of the basal layer and ensure the proper anchoring of basal keratinocytes on the basal membrane and are responsible for the flexibility of the epidermis. In addition, they stimulate the proliferation of keratinocytes, allowing them to engage in differentiation. On older cells they are no longer replaced as efficiently as on young cells, hence the interest of stimulating their biosynthesis for a better renewal.

The increase of collagen IV syntheses is also searched. It helps restore/strengthen the DEJ. Collagen IV forms a two-dimensional network and is one of the major components of the DEJ.

The reduction of protein synthesis with age is felt at the level of the DEJ. Thus, collagen IV is more fragmented and at the same time less produced, as well as are laminins, which in some areas leads to an alteration of the DEJ and a poorer communication between melanocytes, keratinocytes and DEJ and less flexibility of the system. The interest of stimulating the synthesis of these two proteins therefore clearly appears.

The mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention in solution in the culture medium was brought into contact with HDF. An assay of laminins and collagen IV was made on the media; the result is reduced to the number of cells present on the mat.

The mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention positively modulates the production of laminins. The effect is clear from <NUM> ppm and reaches +<NUM>% (p<<NUM>).

The mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention positively modulates the production of collagen IV. The effect is clear from 5ppm and reaches + <NUM>% (p<<NUM>).

The mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention thus stimulates the synthesis of laminins and IV collagen favoring better anchoring of basal keratinocytes to the DEJ, their proliferation/differentiation and a better anchoring of the DEJ on the elastic components of the dermis.

Sensitive and irritated skin is characterized by an abnormally high secretion of cytokines, pro-inflammatory peptides (IL-<NUM>, IL-<NUM> for example) and pro-inflammatory lipids (PGE-<NUM> for example). In addition, inflammation mediators, IL-<NUM> and PGE-<NUM>, are known to induce premature aging phenomena via micro-inflammations.

It is thus searched in cosmetic formulations to integrate actives to reduce the production of IL-<NUM>, IL-<NUM> and PGE2, so as to reduce inflammatory response and slow skin aging.

To test the active ingredients, skin cells were cultured under mild stress conditions (application of UVB radiation) to mimic micro-inflammation. In this situation a significant decrease in mediators of inflammation, IL-<NUM>, IL-<NUM> and PGE-<NUM>, will be interpreted in the sense of an anti-inflammatory action.

HDF are grown until a confluent mat is obtained. At this stage, the HDF are put in contact with the test products for <NUM> hours, then the mats were irradiated with UVB and brought back into contact with the products to be tested for <NUM> hours. The amounts of PGE-<NUM> and IL-<NUM> synthesized were measured in culture supernatants by ELISA assay. The number of cells was evaluated in order to normalize the data. A study of the variances and a Student t-test for non-paired series were performed to evaluate the significance of the results.

Human keratinocytes (HK) were cultured until a confluent mat is obtained. At this stage, they were put in contact with the test products for <NUM> hours, then the mats were irradiated with UVB and brought back into contact with the products to be tested for <NUM> hours. The amounts of PGE-<NUM> and IL-<NUM> synthesized were measured in culture supernatants by ELISA assay. The number of cells was evaluated in order to normalize the data. A study of the variances and a Student t-test for non-paired series were performed to evaluate the significance of the results.

Thus, advantageously, the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention strongly and significantly reduces the two pro-inflammatory messengers in the two types of cells.

The skin has many pores on its surface whose function is to remove excess sebum and impurities from the skin such as dead skin cells and sweat. Oily skin is associated with too much sebum production by the sebocytes. Too much sebum causes changes in the properties of the skin and scalp, for example by increasing the formation of pimples, blackheads and obstructing the pores which will then expand, become more visible and make the skin grain irregular.

An anti-seborrheic cosmetic active will oppose this evolution by reducing the production of sebum, which will have the effect of tightening the pores of the skin, to smooth and reduce the fat/shine appearance with an irregular grain, especially characteristic of oily skin.

Principe: sebocytes were seeded in their growth medium. At confluency, the cells are brought into contact with the cyclic peptide mixture according to the invention for <NUM> hours. After removal of the media, the cell mats are incubated with the intracellular lipid marker Red Nile, which allows the amount of lipids present in the cells to be estimated by measuring the fluorescence emitted. The viability estimation is performed in parallel on the same mats using a fluorescent dye.

These results show that exposure of the sebocytes to the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the amount of lipids in these sebum-producing cells.

The mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention can therefore be used to treat skin disorders associated with oily skin or oily prone skin, such as the shiny, glossy appearance, the size and the number of pores, to give the skin a smoother appearance, uniform, more harmonious.

HK were cultured to confluency and received different doses of the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention or nothing (solvent control) for <NUM> hours. The cells, once rinsed, were then irradiated with ultraviolet B, so as to create a slight oxidative stress, and returned to culture for <NUM> hours. A non-irradiated HK culture served as a negative control. The culture medium of these stressed HK (conditioned medium) were removed and then deposited on human fibroblasts in order to evaluate the collagen-I production (by IMF) and the production of MMP1 (by ELISA) that can be induced by this conditioned medium.

This test confirmed the increase in collagen-I and MMP1 production by fibroblasts in the presence of stratifin.

HK were prepared as before, then received the cyclic peptide mixture according to the invention or its solvent as a negative control for <NUM> hours and were irradiated with type B ultraviolet in a neutral buffer to increase the production of the stratifin protein. The latter was then assayed by the Western Blot technique in culture media.

With this test, it was demonstrated that the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention has the capacity to reduce the production of stratifin by HK subjected to UVB irradiation (-<NUM>% at 10ppm; p><NUM>. <NUM>) and consequently to strongly limit the effects induced by this protein on fibroblasts (decrease of collagen synthesis and increase of proteases of dermal proteins).

The mixture of cyclic peptides therefore has a protective effect with regard to the detrimental effects of stratifin on collagen I and MMP1.

Each mammalian cell comprises about <NUM> mitochondria which provide the energy necessary for the functioning, the syntheses, the defense, and more generally the cutaneous homeostasis. Age-related mitochondrial DNA mutations can weaken the respiratory chain and increase well-known oxygen radical species known as a major factor in aging. There are also links between the decline of essential compounds for mitochondria and failures in mitochondrial energy production, dysfunctions or even pathologies. This phenomenon accelerates the aging of the organs and the skin in particular. Mitochondria require <NUM>,<NUM> proteins: <NUM>% are encoded by the nuclear DNA, only <NUM> proteins, all important for respiration and ATP production, are designed in the mitochondria. Age or exogenous reasons (solar stress, alcohol, pollutants, drugs. ) reduce the supply of proteins from the cytoplasm, produce defective proteins and cause damage to the mitochondrial DNA.

The proper functioning of the mitochondria requires a sufficient amount of all these proteins as well as their integrity. An active capable of positively regulating the production of these key proteins is considered as a tool against skin aging. The following proteins and their functions can be mentioned: MPV17: involved in the maintenance of the mitochondrial genome and the regulation of the metabolism of reactive oxygen species.

DNJB4: involved in the response to heat and protein folding.

SELT: involved in redox balance and antioxidant action.

TIM14: action on protein transport inside the inner membrane of the mitochondria (participates in the protein complex allowing this transport).

MFN2: involved inter alia in the organization of the mitochondrial membrane.

PTCD3: involved in the mechanisms of mitochondrial translation.

MTCH1: involved in the regulation of the apoptotic process.

TIMMDC1: involved in the assembly of complex I of the respiratory chain.

TOM20: involved in the assembly of the complex allowing translocation in the outer mitochondrial membrane.

SLC25A20: involved in transport within the mitochondria.

hPREP: a protease that destroys a marker peptide that allows protein entry into the mitochondria, after this peptide has detached from the protein.

MsRA: detoxifying action on oxidized proteins.

TIM16: action on the transport of proteins inside the inner membrane of the mitochondria (participates in the protein complex allowing this transport).

MFTC: transports vitamin folate in the mitochondria.

LYRM7: assembly factor of complex III essential for homeostasis of mitochondria.

HDFs are grown until a confluent mat is obtained. They were then brought into contact with <NUM> ppm of the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention (or its excipient for the control cases) for <NUM> days, with change of the medium every <NUM> days. At the end of this contact, the cells were lysed so as to extract the proteins and to analyze them in the form of crushed material by a method associating the action of a protease on the crushed material, the separation of the fragments by coupled liquid chromatography to mass spectrometry then the identification and concentration of pre-existing proteins according to the nature and the quantity of the fragments obtained. An analysis of variance and a Student t-test for non-paired series were performed to evaluate the significance of the results.

These results show that <NUM> ppm of the mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention are able to stimulate the synthesis of several mitochondrial proteins involved in the transport of proteins in the mitochondria, the defense of mitochondria facing oxidative stress, dynamism and of mitochondria homeostasis. These stimulations improve the metabolism of the mitochondria and, by the same, cutaneous cells containing them.

The aim of this part is to compare the activity of the purified cyclic peptides according to the invention with that of a mixture of cyclic peptides according to the invention. The tests used for this comparison are those relating to the synthesis of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts.

HNFs were grown in <NUM>-well plates for <NUM> hours. The cells were placed in contact or not with test products at different concentrations for <NUM> days. The collagen synthesis was evaluated by ELISA assay on the culture supernatant and the result was reduced to the number of cells.

FHNs were grown in <NUM>-well plates for <NUM> hours. The cells were placed in contact with test products (or their excipient) at different concentrations for <NUM> days. The collagen I produced by the cells was then quantified by immunofluorescence on the fixed mats, and the result was then reduced to the number of cells.

The results of these tests show the advantage of using a mixture of cyclic peptides in certain cases with respect to purified cyclic peptides.

The principes in the different tests presented below are the same as those described previously in this part, in point <NUM>/. In these tests, it is the active ingredient according to the invention defined above in B) <NUM>), associating <NUM> ppm of mixture of cyclic peptides (see part A) and <NUM> ppm of the supercritical CO<NUM> extract of seeds of Apium graveolens (at the end comprising <NUM>% of total phthalides), as described in part B), which was evaluated. This active ingredient was tested at <NUM>%, <NUM>% or <NUM>%; that is to say respectively <NUM> ppm, <NUM> ppm or <NUM> ppm of the cyclic peptide mixture, and <NUM> ppm, <NUM> ppm or <NUM> ppm of the supercritical CO<NUM> extract of Apium graveolens seeds.

For the in vitro tests, cyclic peptides and alkyl phthalides were pre-solubilized in acid DMSO (for cyclic peptides) and in ethanol (for the Apium graveolens seed extract containing alkyl phthalides), before to be introduced in the medium of each test. Therefore, reference is thereafter made to an equivalent of the active ingredient (in Tables <NUM>-<NUM> and <NUM> below).

Principe: as disclosed above at point <NUM>/.

These data show that the active ingredient according to the invention significantly moderates the basal productions, in the absence of irradiation, of IL6 and PGE2 mediators known for their involvement in micro-inflammations.

As expected, the stress model used (UVB) induces large increases in IL-<NUM> and PGE2 in the control without active. The active ingredient according to the invention reduces these inductions in a dose-dependent and significant manner.

These results were confirmed on keratinocytes in complementary tests in which the active ingredient according to the invention reduces, in a dose-dependent manner, the production of UVB-induced IL-<NUM> (-<NUM>%, p<<NUM>, at <NUM>% of its equivalent).

Principe: as disclosed at point <NUM>/ above.

As in the previous studies, there is a clear reduction in lipid storage in sebocytes in-vitro. This lower storage (-<NUM>% for the equivalent of <NUM>% of the active ingredient according to the invention) compared to the control cases indicates a lower production of lipids forming sebum.

The same tests as those described in point <NUM>/ above were conducted and demonstrated that the mixture of cyclic peptides and Apium graveoloens seed extract according to the invention also had the capacity to reduce the production of stratifin by keratinocytes subjected to UVB irradiation (-<NUM>% at 10ppm; p><NUM>) and consequently greatly limit the effects induced by this protein on fibroblasts (collagen synthesis decreases and protein proteases increase in the dermis).

These results show that the active ingredient according to the invention stimulates the synthesis of several proteins involved in the transport of proteins in the mitochondria or in the defense of the mitochondria. These stimulations will improve the mitochondrial metabolism.

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis. It is continually renewed by desquamation. It forms a hydrophobic barrier that is very effective with respect to the molecules of the external environment. In addition, it limits the loss of water of the body, thanks in particular to the NMF. This barrier is an assembly of great complexity associating, on the one hand, flat cells without nucleus, strongly linked, and on the other hand, lipids and proteins whose composition and assembly ensure the unique properties of this structure very resistant to physical, chemical and biological attacks of the environment. It is therefore important in a perspective of maintaining a good hydration of the skin to keep the skin barrier in good condition.

The following tests show that the ingredient according to the invention makes it possible to meet this aim: the first test at a visual level (state of differentiation of a cell layer), the other tests at a molecular level by assaying different markers of epidermal differentiation on two distinct biological systems (human keratinocytes thin layer culture or human skin explants culture).

Near-confluent human keratinocytes were contacted <NUM>, <NUM> and <NUM> days with the equivalent of the active ingredient according to the invention (or its placebo) in a suitable culture medium in order to study their phenotypic modifications under the microscope, according to the appearance of the cells. It is observed with the equivalent of the active ingredient according to the invention (from <NUM>%) a clear acceleration of the phenotypes that are characteristic of the differentiation with the presence of typical structures of the upper layers of the epidermis (presence of branched structures characteristic of the proteolipidic rigid matrix and in multilayer of the horny envelope; refractive network).

The same cell layers as those studied above in fresh state in the part are stopped after <NUM> days of contact with the equivalent of the active ingredient according to the invention (or its solvent control). They were then fixed and immunostained (through the use of specific primary antibodies and fluorescent secondary antibodies) to visualize the synthesis of <NUM> epidermal differentiation markers, loricrin and involucrine. <NUM> photos were made on each of the <NUM> replicas. Quantification of the markings was performed by image analysis. Counterstaining the cell nuclei makes it possible to estimate the number of cells and thus normalize the data. An analysis of variance and a non-paired student test t were performed to validate the significance of the results.

Standardized abdominal skin explants from a patient were received immediately after collection. After acclimation to <NUM>, a cream containing <NUM>% of the active ingredient according to the invention or a placebo cream is applied to the surface of the explants <NUM> time per day for <NUM> days with a daily renewal of the application. After <NUM> days of culture the explants were stopped, frozen in nitrogen and cut. Immunolabeling of the differentiating marker proteins PNPLA1, K24 and K10 was then carried out by the use of specific primary antibodies and fluorescent secondary antibodies. Each condition was photographed under a fluorescence microscope. Quantification of the markings was performed by image analysis. An analysis of variance and a non-paired student test t are performed to validate the significance of the results.

The same cell layers as those studied above in the fresh state were stopped after <NUM> days of contact with <NUM>% of the equivalent of the active ingredient according to the invention (or its placebo). They were then fixed and stained with Nile Blue (neutral lipid markers) and a nuclei marker for cell quantification. Photos were taken to evaluate each marking and quantified by image analysis. An analysis of variance and a non-paired student test t were performed to validate the significance of the results.

All these results agree to show the interest of the active ingredient according to the invention in the establishment, reinforcement and restoration of the cutaneous barrier. The known protein markers of the quality of the formation of this barrier: involucrine, loricrine PNPLA1, K24 and K10 are all increasing thanks to the active ingredient according to the invention. It is the same for a category of lipids that is determining for the formation of the stratum corneum: the neutral lipids.

Various compositions/formulations are described below. Additional active cosmetic ingredients, optionally supporting and/or complementing the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention may be added in the appropriate phase according to their hydrophobic or hydrophilic nature. These ingredients can be of any category depending on their function(s), the place of application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, etc.), the desired end effect and the targeted consumer, for example antioxidant, tensor, moisturizer, nourishing, protective, smoothing, remodeling, volumizing (lipofiling), acting on the radiance of the complexion, against undereye bags and dark circles, concealer, anti-glycation, slimming, soothing, myo-relaxing, anti-redness, anti-stretch marks, sunscreen, etc. They are mentioned above in the description.

Active ingredient according to the invention: as described at the point B. <NUM>/ above or B. <NUM>/ above (further comprising an extract of Apium graveolens seeds). This ingredient can be formulated between <NUM> and <NUM>%, preferably <NUM>%.

<NUM>) Fluid form cream, for example to realise a light firming base for the face for use before makeup (acting in particular on the densification of the dermis and thus on the tightening of the pores).

Tested product: the cream <NUM>) of point D) of the Galenic above.

Principes: the evaluation of the efficacy of the mixture was conducted on a total of <NUM> volunteers in a study, against placebo, to measure the improvement of the quality of the skin by following the following parameters: re-densification, firmness, state surface and re-pulping effect.

Several complementary techniques have been used to study different parameters:.

The study was conducted on a panel of <NUM> women volunteers, mean age <NUM> years (<NUM> - <NUM> years), visually presenting a decrease in densification of the skin found by the presence of slightly dilated pores. They were asked for a hormonal consistency during the <NUM> months preceding the test and during the test. In addition, the volunteers had to observe a wash-out period of <NUM> days, with a moisturizer and exclude any cosmetic act of scrub or mask type.

The volunteers were not aware of the composition of the two products tested, these being organoleptically and visually identical. The creams were applied to the face, each volunteer applied on one side of the face a cream according to the invention and a placebo cream on the other side of the face. The creams were applied in bi-daily massage for <NUM> weeks.

Statistical studies were performed using Student t-test or, if required, a non-parametric Wilcoxon test. The tests were performed on matched series.

The Cutometer® MPA580 (Courage & Khazaka) was used to measure viscoelastic parameters on the cheek of volunteers. This device measures the deformation of a cutaneous zone, subjected to repeated mechanical stresses of suction, as well as its recovery power. The apparatus provides graphs of deformation of the skin as a function of time as shown in <FIG>. In this figure are indicated the parameters Ur / Ue, Ur / Uf and Ur, respectively called Firmness, Elasticity and Tone, varying with age, that were chosen. Three independent acquisitions were made at T0 and T8 weeks.

The results in the table above show a net increase of the three parameters studied.

These results therefore show a clear improvement of the viscoelastic parameters of the cheek related to the re-pulping effect of the cream according to the invention, firmness + <NUM>%; Elasticity + <NUM> % and Tone + <NUM>%. This improvement is significant (p <<NUM>) compared with placebo. These results are in line with those obtained in-vitro showing that cyclic peptides activate collagen-I synthesis and moderate the "cross-talking" of the anti-matrix agents.

As explained above, skin density as part of anti-aging strategies is very important. The quality of the skin has been evaluated for a long time non-invasively using sound measurements (ultrasound for example) or through different types of lights (UV, visible, IR) which allows measurements to be made on and in the skin. A Translucymeter® TLS <NUM> (Diastron), measuring the path of light in the skin, was used. The skin, like many materials, is neither totally transparent (transmission of a clear image), nor totally opaque (no transmitted light): it is translucent. The degree of translucency depends on the absorption coefficient and dispersion of the material with regards to the light entering it.

Translucymeter® illuminates the skin with narrow beams of color. These lights penetrate into the skin where they meet the layers (junctions between stratum corneum and epidermis, epidermis-dermis. ) and macromolecules (especially collagen fibers which represent <NUM>% of the mass of the skin). These fibers are of very different density and quality depending on depth and age. The lights will be more or less absorbed or deflected in different directions or returned to the probe (backscattering), the latter analyzing the signal and translating it into light level.

Measurements at T2 months of the <NUM> volunteers (n = <NUM>), having applied the cream according to the invention to one side of the face and placebo contralateral, were performed.

It can be seen that the attenuation value of the light is significantly greater by + <NUM>% (p <<NUM>) on the side of the face which has received the cream according to the invention for two months compared with that which has received the placebo. These data indicate that the side treated with the cream according to the invention is denser than the other side.

As explained above, the supporting tissues lose density with age, which results in the impression of having a skin with more open pores. At an intermediate time (T1 month) a study was carried out on persons who had clearly visible pores at T0 (n=<NUM>): horizontal optical sections of the skin were made using a confocal laser microscope (VivaScope® <NUM>, Mavig GmbH).

This camera takes pictures at different depths of the skin and allows a completely painless and non-invasive way of "traveling" in the latter to the papillary dermis (near the epidermis). The optical sections thus produced are only <NUM> microns (µm) deep apart from each other.

The set of horizontal photos, taken at the level of the dermis of two pores, made it possible to extract the peripheral zone of the pores. An image of a vertical channel surrounded by its supporting tissue is obtained, this image allows the analysis and quantification of the density of the supporting tissue.

Photographs, taken on volunteers, illustrate the effect of the cream according to the invention between T0 and T2months on the pore opening parameter. In these volunteers, there is a marked change in the appearance of the skin after application.

Against placebo: parametric test, unilateral; p<<NUM>. <NUM> bilaterally.

The results show that the application for only four weeks of the cream according to the invention makes it possible to improve the densification of the peripheral pore tissue by <NUM>% in one month this very significantly (p<<NUM>) compared to placebo which does not significantly improve this tissue (+<NUM>%, nsd). These results confirm those obtained using the cutometer and the translucometer: it is demonstrated that the cream according to the invention re-pulps and re-densifies skin supporting tissues better and significantly compared to placebo. No significant difference between the two sides at T0 was observed.

With ageing, the surface of the skin loses its homogeneity because of the increase of the microroughness and the enlargement of the pores in particular. A young skin with a regular and uniform texture will better reflect the light it receives and will give the skin a satin finish. It is the loss of homogeneity of the texture that changes the way the light is reflected by it and can make the skin duller, less radiant. The cream according to the invention has a beneficial effect of resurfacing the skin in addition to its plumping effect of the dermis.

Quantification of the light scattering at the surface of the skin can be carried out <NUM>) by clinical observation, which is a very dependent of the operator, <NUM>) by the extraction of the gloss components on photos, a method closely related to the quality of photos capturing this brilliance, or <NUM>) by metrological optical means of the goniometer type, a method which was retained here by using a Goniolux® (Orion Technoloabtm, France).

Goniolux® measures the intensity of light reflected from different angles. Its cylinder is applied in a controlled manner on the selected skin area. Its illumination system sends a light whose return is collected by means of several optical fibers regularly distributed on a hemisphere. The light reflected by the skin breaks down into specular reflected light (mirror effect) and diffuse reflected light (satin effect), a parameter that has been used. The scale of the device is in arbitrary units and then converted into percentage (hence from <NUM> to <NUM>). On Caucasian skin, the dynamics evolve little: <NUM>% for a very shiny skin to <NUM>% for a very satiny skin. The variations were expressed using this scale.

It is observed, after one month of application with the cream according to the invention, that the level of scattered light is increased significantly, on the physiological scale, by <NUM>% (p<<NUM>) compared to the beginning of the test and compared to placebo. At the same time, the massage with the placebo also improves the satin aspect but more moderately (+<NUM>%).

This leads to a more satin-like face where light diffuses to the surface of the skin and produces a naturally softer illumination.

The variation of the texture was measured using another technique, robust and proven, which perfectly complements the method used previously and the observations on photos. At each of the times, a negative molding of the cheek skin of the volunteers was performed using a silicone polymer. An acquisition is then made by the technique of drop shadows (Visioline, Monaderm), then the analysis is conducted with a specialized software.

In order to reflect the texture of the micro-depressional network of the skin, the isotropy parameter was chosen. It is known that a young skin has a high surface homogeneity, being isotropic. This skin diffuses the light better because it has microgrooves well present and oriented in all directions, it also has fewer surface defects and they are less exacerbated. The footprints of <NUM> volunteers were retained.

Claim 1:
Use of at least one cyclic peptide as an active component in a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and/or its appendages, said cyclic peptide consisting of at least five amino acids including at least one proline (Pro) and at least two phenylalanine (Phe), the other amino acids being selected from the group comprising leucine (Leu), isoleucine (Ile), valine (Val), alanine (Ala), glycine (Gly) Methionine (Met) and Tryptophan (Trp), Methionine (Met), when present, may be unoxidized or oxidized,
wherein said cyclic peptide comprises at most <NUM> amino acids, wherein the cyclic peptide comprises at least one leucine, and
wherein the cyclic peptide comprises at least two phenylalanines and/or at least two prolines.