Patent Description:
In the production of fabric for footwear or apparel, it is frequently necessary to seal a cutting edge to prevent fraying or tearing. Presently, this involves a process in which a hotmelt is applied to the fabric in a first step, exposed to heat in a second step, and subjected to pressure in a third step. In other words, presently there are at least three separate steps required for sealing a fabric with hotmelt. It is therefore an object underlying the present invention, to provide a method and apparatus to reduce the number of steps required for sealing a fabric. A reduced number of steps, reduces the complexity of the method and may reduce the time for production and thus the cost of an item of apparel or footwear.

Moreover, since the application of heat and pressure are separate steps, there is a risk that the softened hotmelt becomes misaligned after being exposed to heat and prior to being subjected to pressure. Therefore, a reduction in the number of process steps may also reduce the risk of misalignment and thus the amount of fabric that has to be disposed off due to production faults.

Processes according to the prior art are described in <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT> and <CIT>.

The invention is disclosed in the independent claims with preferred embodiments in the dependent claims.

<CIT> relates to arrangements for manufacturing rubber products, more particularly of moulded vulcanised rubber products, and has for its main object to provide a machine of cyclical operation which performs, by itself, all the necessary operations, from the preparation of the rubber mixture or the reception of the rubber mixture already prepared, to the final finish of the product.

<CIT> concerns a laminate structure that includes a first substrate and a second substrate. In one embodiment, the substrates can contain thermoplastic polymers that are fused together to form bonded portions and unbonded portions located between the bonded portions. internal surface, the internal surface defining a core, wherein the core comprises a first heating element.

The term "hollow" means that the empty, unfilled first roll itself is at least partly hollow, i.e. that it comprises a cavity or core, defined by an external surface and an internal surface of the first roll. The cavity or core does not have to extend of a whole length of the first roll. The first core may extend over at least <NUM>% of a length of the first roll, preferably at least <NUM>%. This enables a uniform transmission of heat from the core to the external surface. For example, the first core may be formed by a milling process, starting from a solid essentially cylindrical workpiece, e.g. a piece of metal, e.g. a rod.

However, the core comprises a first heating element which partially or entirely fills the core. It is also possible that additional elements are arranged in the core. In other words, the term hollow is not to be construed in such a way that it requires an empty core of the first roll or a core that comprises only the first heating element.

The first roll may, for example, be essentially cylindrical. The term "essentially cylindrical" is to be understood such that the external surface is cylindrical in a topological sense. The essentially cylindrical external surface may have a variable radius, due to manufacturing imperfections or to selectively compress certain regions of a fabric, of an article of footwear or apparel, more than others. The essentially cylindrical external surface may also comprise a texture, in order to impart a texture onto the fabric. A "fabric" in the present context may be any textile, for example a weft-knitted textile, warp-knitted textile, a woven textile, a non-woven textile, a leather etc..

The heat-press system allows the simultaneous application of heat and compression of the fabric for an article of apparel or footwear in a single process step, for example for sealing a cutting edge of the fabric or for creating a reinforcement region of increased bending stiffness. Therefore, the number of steps required is reduced compared with methods that employ an apparatus, e.g. a press, as known in the art, thus reducing the complexity. For example, a bonding agent may be applied to the fabric for the article of apparel or footwear, as described elsewhere herein. Alternatively, or additionally, the fabric may comprise a meltable yarn, that may have a melting temperature of less than <NUM>, preferably less than <NUM>. Moreover, the risk of misalignment, for example of a hotmelt applied to the fabric, is reduced by combining the steps of heating and applying pressure.

The first roll may comprise a material with a thermal conductivity greater than <NUM> W/mK, preferably greater than <NUM> W/mK, most preferably greater than <NUM> W/mK. It is to be understood that the thermal conductivity is to be measured using standard techniques at <NUM> and at a pressure of <NUM> bar, also known as standard temperature and pressure (STP). Therefore, heat generated by the first heating element is conducted well from the first core to the external surface. Suitable materials for the first roll include, for example, stainless steel, copper, steel, aluminium, other metals, a polymer or plastic with the given thermal conductivity, combinations thereof, and other suitable materials. These materials have a desirable thermal conductivity and provide good abrasion resistance.

The first roll may further comprise a first thermometer. The first thermometer may be detachable to allow easy replacement of broken thermometers. The first thermometer could be any device suitable for measuring temperature on a relative or absolute scale by any suitable method. For example, a thermocouple would be suitable. The first thermometer therefore allows the temperature of the first roll to be determined, in order to allow selecting a temperature that is sufficiently high in order to melt the bonding agent and/or the meltable yarn, yet that is not too high, such that damage to the fabric may be prevented. The thermometer may be arranged between the heating element and the external surface to allow an accurate determination of the temperature.

The heating element may comprise a first electrically-conducting wire. This allows a safe and controllable generation of heat by Joule heating. For example, the first electrically-conducting wire may comprise a metal alloy comprising iron, nickel, chromium, copper, manganese, and/or cobalt. Such alloys have a high melting temperature and have a fairly constant specific electrical resistivity over a large temperature range, allowing a safe operation and easy control of the temperature. The term "electrically conducting" is understood in its usual sense, i.e. materials can be classified into electrical conductors, semiconductors, and electrical insulators.

The first roll may comprise a coil, which comprises the first electrically-conducting wire. To generate a preferable amount of heat, it may be required to use a first electrically-conducting wire that has a length much greater than a longitudinal length of the first roll, in order to prevent overheating of the first electrically-conducting wire. Therefore, the first electrically-conducting wire is preferably arranged in the shape of a coil, in order to save space and to provide a sufficient dissipation of heat to the external surface.

The electrically-conducting wire may comprise an electrical insulation with a thermal conductivity greater than <NUM> W/mK. The inventors have found, that to ensure an effective application of heat by the first roll, the electrical insulation preferably comprises a thermal conductivity greater than <NUM> W/mK, more preferably <NUM> W/mK, most preferably <NUM> W/mK.

The electrical insulation may be applied as a coating to the electrically-conducting wire. It is also possible that the surface of the wire comprises an oxide, for example a magnesium oxide that serves as electrical insulation. This arrangement is particularly space-efficient. Alternatively, or additionally the electrical insulation may be take up a substantial part of the volume of the core, for example at least <NUM>%, preferably at least <NUM>%, most preferably at least <NUM>%, for example as a filler, which fills essentially all available space in the first core. The inventors have found, that this improves the thermal contact between the first heating element and the external surface. It is possible that a first material is used as a coating and a different second material is used to create a strong thermal bond surrounding the insulated electrically-conducting wire.

The electrical insulation, i.e. the first and / or the second material, may comprise a ceramic, for example porcelain, a glass, quartz, mica, chamotte, silica, alumina, and / or steatite. Any of these materials may be in the form of a powder, a solid, or a potting compound. In order to prevent a short circuit, the electrically-conducting wire needs to be electrically insulated. However, many electrical insulators are poor thermal conductors since poor electrical conductors tend to be poor thermal conductors and vice versa.

The electrical insulation may comprise a magnesium oxide. A magnesium oxide may allow a particularly high thermal conductivity, between <NUM> and <NUM> W/mK, therefore allowing a particularly good thermal contact between the first heating element and the external surface.

The external surface of the first roll may comprise a first circumferential indentation or a first circumferential projection. An indentation may be a groove. This may improve the alignment of a fabric and may prevent unintended lateral movement of the fabric during the procedure.

The heat-press system may further comprise an abutting surface configured to form a compression zone with the external surface of the first roll for compressing a fabric for an article footwear or apparel.

It is to be understood that an abutting surface does not need to make direct contact with the first roll. Typically, the fabric will be arranged at least partially between the first roll and the abutting surface in the compression zone.

It is to be understood that the presence of an abutting surface may be advantageous but is not essential for the operation of the heat-press system. For example, it is possible that the heat-press system is used to simultaneously apply heat and pressure to a fabric held under tension, without the presence of an abutting surface.

The external surface of the first roll and / or the abutting surface may be coupled to a biasing mechanism. A biasing mechanism, or suspension mechanism may be biased, or pre-loaded. The coupling may be direct or may involve one or more intermediate elements. For example, the first roll may be moveable over a sled, with the contact force adjusted by the biasing mechanism. The biasing mechanism allows the relative position of the first and the abutting surface to be controlled. Therefore, the force exerted by the external surface and the abutting surface on a fabric may be controlled. This is particularly useful, because it means that the heat-press system may be used for different thicknesses of fabric and / or bonding agent without requiring any adjustment. Moreover, too much force, or pressure, may damage the fabric, which may be prevented by the biasing mechanism.

The biasing mechanism may allow an essentially-linear displacement, and/or a rotary displacement.

The biasing mechanism may comprise a spring. A spring allows a simple and durable construction of a biasing mechanism, allowing both essentially-linear displacement as well as rotary displacement. A rubber pad and / or rubber shock may be used additionally and or alternatively, for example for setting a desired compression force.

The heat-press system may further comprise a second roll, wherein the second roll comprises an external surface, and wherein the external surface forms the abutting surface of the heat press system. The inventors have found, that using the first roll and the second roll allows for particularly high production speeds. Alternatively, the abutting surface may be essentially flat.

The second roll may further comprise an internal surface, the internal surface defining a second core, the second core comprising a second heating element. The inventors have found, that it is advantageous for a uniform application of heat, for the fabric and / or the bonding agent to be heated from both sides, i.e. by the first roll and the second roll.

Generally, the second roll may have similar or identical properties to the first roll as described herein.

At least one of the first roll and the abutting surface may comprise a projection. Only one of the first roll and the abutting surface may comprise a projection.

Alternatively, both the first roll and the abutting surface may comprise a projection. The inventors have found, that a projection is useful to prevent unintended slipping of the fabric during use of the heat-press system. It is not necessary for the other one of the first roll and the abutting surface to comprise a corresponding groove.

The other one of the first roll and the abutting surface may comprise a groove wherein the projection is configured to be inserted into the groove when the first roll and the abutting surface abut. In other words, the first roll may comprise a groove and the abutting surface, e.g. the second roll, may comprise a corresponding projection. Alternatively, the first roll may comprise a projection and the abutting surface, e.g. the second roll, may comprise a corresponding groove. Alternatively, the first roll may comprise a first projection and a second groove and the abutting surface, e.g. the second roll, may comprise a first groove corresponding to the first projection and a second projection corresponding to the second groove. Thus, the groove(s) may form a path for the fabric and/or the bonding agent to pass through. Therefore, this arrangement advantageously improves the alignment of the fabric and the bonding agent, especially before the fabric and/or the bonding agent solidifies.

The projection and / or the groove may be arranged circumferentially around the first and / or the second roll. This allows for a particularly simple and reliable processing.

The heat-press system may further comprise at least one motor, wherein the first roll is rotatable about a first axis and / or the second roll is rotatable about a second axis, by means of the motor. A single motor may be used to rotate the first roll and the second roll. Alternatively, a first motor may be used to rotate the first roll and a second motor may be used to rotate the second roll. A motor may be controlled precisely electronically and may be preferable compared with hand-operated rotation, in order to automate the process and prevent worker fatigue.

The heat-press system may further comprise a guiding means to guide a fabric for a piece of footwear or apparel toward the compression zone located between the first roll and the abutting surface, e.g. the second roll.

The guiding means, or feeder, may be used to ensure that a bonding agent is correctly aligned before being arranged on the fabric, for example on the edge of the fabric, and before the fabric, and bonding agent if present, enter the compression zone.

The guiding means may comprise a material with a thermal conductivity greater than <NUM> W/mK, preferably greater than <NUM> W/mK, most preferably greater than <NUM> W/mK. Suitable materials include, for example, stainless steel, copper, steel, aluminium, and other metals. These materials have a desirable thermal conductivity and provide good abrasion resistance.

The guiding means may comprise a third heating element. Therefore, the guiding means may pre-heat the fabric and/or the bonding agent. This may increase production speed as a shorter compression time, during which the fabric is compressed in-between the external surface and the abutting surface, may be required. The guiding means may comprise a third thermometer, in order to ensure that a suitable temperature, that is neither too high, nor too low, is set.

The guiding means may comprise a first guiding surface and a second guiding surface arranged in a V-shaped configuration. The first and/or the second guiding surface may be essentially flat. A V-shaped configuration is understood as any configuration in which the first and the second guiding surfaces are arranged at an angle between <NUM>° and <NUM>°, preferably between <NUM>° and <NUM>°, which may help to pre-fold the bonding agent around the fabric.

The heat-press system may further comprise at least one control unit to control the temperature of the first, second (if present), and / or third (if present) heating element. For example, a first control unit may control the temperature of the first heating element, the second control unit may control the temperature of the second heating element and a third control unit may control the temperature of the third heating element. Alternatively, a single control unit may control the temperature of all three heating elements. The inventors have found that it is important to accurately control the temperature of the heating elements in order to prevent damage to the fabric and / or to prevent any meltable material, for example the bonding agent and / or the meltable yarn, from sticking to the heat-press system. On the other hand, the temperature needs to be sufficiently high in order to melt the bonding agent and/or the meltable yarn. For example, the least one control unit may allow the temperature of the first roll, the second roll and/or the guiding means to be controlled to better than <NUM> precision preferably better than <NUM> precision.

The heat-press system may be for sealing an edge of a fabric. The inventors have found that the heat-press system is particularly useful for sealing the edge of a fabric, e.g. a cutting edge since it the fabric to be compressed and heated in a single process step thus simplifying the production and reducing the likelihood of errors due to misalignment.

Sealing the edge of the fabric may comprise the use of a hotmelt, a ribbon, or a seam tape. A seam tape and / or a ribbon may comprise a hotmelt. A seam tape is configured to fit around the edge of a seam in order to allow the seam to be sealed. This allows a precise and localized bond to be achieved.

The invention further concerns a method of treating a fabric for an article of footwear or apparel, comprising applying a bonding agent, which melts or softens upon application of heat, to the fabric and / or incorporating a meltable yarn into the fabric, and feeding the fabric into the heat-press system according to the present invention.

A bonding agent may be any material that melts or softens upon application of heat, preferably at less than <NUM>° C, more preferably at less than <NUM>° C. For example, a hotmelt or a metal or metal alloy with a low melting temperature, for example an alloy comprising tin, is a bonding agent. A meltable yarn may be incorporated by any known method, for example stitching, knitting, weaving etc..

The present method offers a reduced number of process steps and thus a reduced complexity compared to methods known in the art. Furthermore, the production time may also be reduced compared to techniques known in the art.

The feeding of the fabric into the heat-press system according to the present invention may comprise: (c) heating at least a first portion the fabric and / or the bonding agent by heating at least one of the first, second (if present), or third (if present) heating element, and (d) compressing at least a second portion of the fabric in the compression zone. The first portion and the second portion may overlap partially or entirely. Therefore, the benefits of the heat-press system described herein are fully exploited.

The bonding agent and / or the meltable yarn may comprise a thermoplastic polymer. For example, the bonding agent and / or the meltable yarn may comprise thermoplastic polyurethane, which has excellent adhesive properties and is non-toxic.

The bonding agent may have the shape of a seam tape, a ribbon or a film. The shape allows a particularly simple and accurate placement of the bonding agent on the fabric. The placement may be performed by an automated setup, such as a patch-placement machine.

The bonding agent may be applied to an edge of the fabric. This may help to prevent fraying and tearing, which might otherwise result at the edge of the fabric due to lose cut fibers or yarns. For example, applying a ribbon may comprise folding the ribbon over the cut edge.

The fabric may be for an upper of an article of footwear. For example, the bonding agent may be used around the collar opening of an upper for an article of footwear. The collar opening is subject to significant stresses during exercise and therefore the method according to the present invention not only prevents fraying but may also increase the bending stiffness of the upper around the collar opening, thus increasing stability.

The invention further concerns an article of footwear or apparel comprising a fabric produced by method according to the present invention. An article of footwear may be any shoe, especially a sports shoe, such as a football boot, a running shoe, a basketball boot, a golf shoe, tennis shoe, hiking shoe, a hiking boot, etc. An apparel may be any type of apparel, especially sports apparel, for example a shirt, a jersey, shorts, trousers, a cap, etc. An article of footwear or apparel produced by a method according to the present invention is less prone to manufacturing defects such as inaccurately aligned sealing elements, e.g. hotmelt patches than those known in the art. As a result, an article of footwear or apparel according to the present invention is also more durable than those known in the art.

In the following, some exemplary embodiments of the invention are described with reference to the figures.

In the following only some embodiments of the invention are described in detail. It is to be understood that these exemplary embodiments can be modified in a number of ways and combined with each other whenever compatible and that certain features may be omitted in so far as they appear dispensable.

<FIG> show an exemplary heat-press system <NUM> for use in the production of footwear or apparel, comprising: at least a hollow first roll <NUM> comprising an external surface <NUM> and an internal surface <NUM>, the internal surface <NUM> defining a core <NUM>, wherein the core <NUM> comprises a first heating element <NUM>.

In this example, the external surface <NUM> is essentially cylindrical.

The first roll <NUM> comprises a material with a thermal conductivity greater than <NUM> W/mK. at <NUM> and at a pressure of <NUM> bar, also known as standard temperature and pressure (STP). The first roll <NUM> comprises stainless steel.

The first core <NUM> extends over more than <NUM>% of a length of the first roll. The first roll <NUM> is attached to a separate mount <NUM>, which is to facilitate mounting the first roll <NUM> in a heat-press system <NUM> as described with reference to <FIG> and <FIG>.

The first heating element <NUM> comprises a first electrically-conducting wire, wound up as a coil, which comprises the first electrically-conducting wire. In this example, the wire comprises an alloy comprising about <NUM>% copper, <NUM>% nickel, and <NUM>% manganese, sometimes also referred to as Constantan® or Konstantan®. The electrically-conducting wire comprises an electrical insulation with a thermal conductivity greater than <NUM> W/mK. In this example, the electrical insulation is applied as a coating on the electrically-conducting wire. This arrangement is particularly space-efficient.

The electrical insulation comprises a magnesium oxide, which allows a particularly high thermal conductivity, between <NUM> and <NUM> W/mK, therefore allowing a particularly good thermal contact between the first heating element <NUM> and the external surface <NUM>.

The external surface <NUM> of the first roll <NUM> comprises a first circumferential groove <NUM>.

<FIG> show an example in which the electrical insulation is only applied as a coating on the electrically-conducting wire.

<FIG> shows a cross-section of a first roll <NUM> according to another embodiment. The first roll <NUM> comprises an external surface <NUM> and an internal surface <NUM> configured to form a first core <NUM>. The first core <NUM> comprises a heating element <NUM>. In this example, the first core <NUM> comprises an electrically insulating but thermally conducting filler material <NUM>, which fills substantially the entire available volume in the core <NUM>. The filler material <NUM> takes up more than <NUM>% of the volume of the core <NUM>.

The first roll <NUM> further comprises a first thermometer <NUM>, arranged between the first heating element <NUM> and the first core <NUM>. The first thermometer <NUM> is detachable to allow easy replacement of broken thermometers. In this example, a thermocouple is used as first thermometer <NUM>.

<FIG> shows another exemplary heat-press system <NUM> according to the present invention. <FIG> shows the general arrangement of the heat-press system <NUM>, while <FIG> shows a cross-section of the second roll <NUM>.

As shown in <FIG>, the heat-press system <NUM> is for use in the production of footwear or apparel and comprises: a hollow first roll <NUM> comprising an external surface <NUM> and an internal surface (not shown), the internal surface defining a core (not shown), wherein the core comprises a first heating element.

The heat-press system <NUM> further comprises an abutting surface <NUM> configured to form a compression zone <NUM> with the external surface <NUM> of the first roll <NUM> for compressing a fabric for an article footwear or apparel (not shown).

The external surface <NUM> of the roll <NUM> is coupled to a biasing mechanism <NUM>. In this example, the biasing mechanism <NUM> allows an essentially-linear displacement. However, in other examples, the biasing mechanism <NUM> may allow a rotary displacement. The biasing mechanism <NUM> comprises a spring, which is attached to a base <NUM>. Alternatively, or additionally, a rubber pad and / or rubber shock may be used.

The heat-press system <NUM> further comprises a second roll <NUM>. The second roll <NUM> comprises an external surface <NUM>, and wherein the external surface <NUM> forms the abutting surface <NUM> of the heat press system.

<FIG> shows a cross-section of the second roll <NUM>. The second roll <NUM> further comprises an internal surface <NUM>, the internal surface <NUM> defining a second core <NUM>, the second core <NUM> comprising a second heating element <NUM> and a second thermometer <NUM>.

The second heating element <NUM> comprises a second electrically-conducting wire, wound up as a coil, which comprises the second electrically-conducting wire. The second electrically-conducting wire comprises an insulation applied as a coating. Unlike in the example shown in <FIG>, the second core <NUM> does not comprise a filler material. It is, however, possible that the second core also comprises a filler material. Likewise, it is also possible the first core shown in <FIG> does not comprise a filler material.

Returning to <FIG>, the first roll <NUM> comprises a groove <NUM> and the abutting surface <NUM> comprises a corresponding projection <NUM>, wherein the projection <NUM> is configured to be inserted into the groove <NUM> when the first roll <NUM> and the abutting surface <NUM> abut. In other examples, the first roll <NUM> may not comprise a groove while the abutting surface <NUM> still comprises a projection, or vice versa. It is also possible that the first roll <NUM> comprises a first projection and a second groove and the abutting surface <NUM>, e.g. the second roll, comprises a first groove corresponding to the first projection and a second projection corresponding to the second groove. In this example, the projection <NUM> is arranged to circumferentially extend around the second roll <NUM>, while the groove <NUM> is arranged to circumferentially extend around the first roll <NUM>. The groove <NUM> therefore forms a path for the fabric and/or the bonding agent to pass through.

<FIG> and <FIG> show an exemplary guiding means <NUM> for a heat-press system <NUM> according to the present invention.

The guiding means <NUM> guides a fabric toward the compression zone <NUM> located between the external surface <NUM> and the abutting surface <NUM>. The guiding means <NUM>, or feeder, may be used to ensure that a bonding agent is correctly aligned before being arranged on the fabric, for example the edge of the fabric or a fiber, and before the fabric and/or bonding agent enters the compression zone <NUM>.

The guiding means <NUM> comprises a material with a thermal conductivity greater than <NUM> W/mK. In this example, the guiding means <NUM> comprises stainless steel.

In the example of <FIG>, the guiding means <NUM> comprises a third heating element <NUM>. Therefore, the guiding means <NUM> may pre-heat the fabric and/or the bonding agent. In the example of <FIG>, the guiding means <NUM> does not comprise a heating element.

The guiding means <NUM> comprises a first guiding surface <NUM> and a second guiding surface <NUM> arranged in a V-shaped configuration. In the example of <FIG>, the guiding surfaces are longer than in the example of <FIG>. The first <NUM> and/or the second <NUM> guiding surfaces are essentially flat in both examples.

<FIG> shows another exemplary heat-press system <NUM> according to the present invention.

The heat-press system <NUM> is similar to the heat-press system <NUM> described with reference to <FIG> but additionally comprises a guiding means <NUM>, for example as described with reference to <FIG>. An opening of the V-shaped guiding surfaces of the guiding means <NUM> along a vertical direction. The arrow labelled with reference numeral <NUM> indicates the direction in which a fabric to which a bonding agent may have been applied would be inserted into the heat-press.

The exemplary heat-press system <NUM> further comprises a motor and control unit <NUM>. In this example, the second roll <NUM> is rotatable about a second by means of the motor. Alternatively, a first motor may be used to rotate the first roll <NUM> and a second motor may be used to rotate the second roll <NUM>. The control unit controls the temperature of the first and the second heating element. The exemplary control unit allows the temperature of the first roll <NUM> and the second roll <NUM> to be controlled to better than <NUM> precision.

<FIG> illustrate an exemplary method according to the present invention. <FIG> shows an exemplary fabric for an upper <NUM> of an article of footwear. The upper <NUM> comprises a plurality of yarns <NUM>. Some the yarns are loose around the collar opening <NUM> of the upper, due to previous processing steps such as cutting.

In <FIG> a seam tape comprising a bonding agent <NUM>, which melts or softens upon application of heat has been applied. The melting temperature of the exemplary bonding agent is about <NUM>° C. In this example the bonding agent <NUM> is a hotmelt. The bonding agent comprises thermoplastic polyurethane, which has excellent adhesive properties and is non-toxic.

The shoe upper with the bonding agent applied will then be fed into the heat-press system <NUM> described herein in order to seal the collar opening.

<FIG> shows the consolidation of a seam by a method and apparatus according to the present invention including the use of a seam tape.

Claim 1:
A heat-press system (<NUM>) for use in the production of footwear or apparel, comprising:
at least a hollow first roll (<NUM>) comprising an external surface (<NUM>) and an internal surface (<NUM>), the internal surface (<NUM>) defining a core (<NUM>), wherein the core (<NUM>) comprises a first heating element (<NUM>);
an abutting surface (<NUM>) configured to form a compression zone (<NUM>) with the external surface (<NUM>) of the first roll (<NUM>) for compressing a fabric for an article of footwear or apparel; and characterised in it comprises a guiding means (<NUM>) to guide a fabric for a piece of footwear or apparel toward the compression zone (<NUM>) located between the first roll (<NUM>) and the abutting surface (<NUM>).