Patent Description:
Shoe uppers are typically fabricated from a plurality of different materials in order to provide different performance characteristics at different locations on the shoe. For example, it might be desirable for the shoe to be breathable near the toes to allow perspiration to escape, but more rigid at the heel to keep the shoe attached to the foot during use. Thus, a shoe might incorporate a fabric mesh panel near the toe cap and a reinforced polymer panel near the heel cap. Other materials used in footwear may be relatively flexible and tough such as those used near the metatarsophalangeal (MTP) joint between the metatarsal bones of the foot and the proximal phalanges of the toes where repeated bending occurs. Thus, a shoe might incorporate a panel made of leather, vinyl or the like at the vamp.

In order to accommodate the different sizes, shapes and materials used in the panels of shoe uppers, a variety of seaming and joining methods are typically used. Lap joints and butt joints have conventionally been used, as is described in <CIT> <CIT>describes supplementary fiber structures for leather. Felt, felting or needle punching have been described generally as being used in articles of footwear in <CIT>, <CIT>, <CIT>and <CIT>.

Document <CIT> describes a multi-needle head and needling machine comprising a multi-needle block constituting a multi-needle head to be attached to the needle bar tip of a needling machine, a needling-fixing pedestal is provided with needle-fixing vertical holes into which the base portions of the punching needles are inserted, and lateral screw holes penetrated to the needle- fixing vertical holes, from the side surface.

Document <CIT> describes a method for converting a lock-stitch sewing machine to a machine for decorating fabrics with at least one untwisted strand of keratinous fiber applied in a pattern to the fabric.

Document <CIT> describes a plurality of pieces of fabric that are sewn together by performing needle felting in which wool yarn is placed at a sewing location and a felting needle is made to prick through the plurality of pieces of fabric together with the wool yarn so that a fiber of the wool yarn is intertwined with fibers of the sewn pieces of fabric.

Document <CIT> describes a punching device that is fastened at the pressure shaft of a sewing machine, vertically displaceable via a carrier. The vertical position of the press pad at the body can be adjusted by an adjustment screw to the thickness of the textiles/work pieces to be processed.

Document <CIT> discloses a needle assembly according to the preamble of claim <NUM> and as such describes a multi-needle head of a needle-punching machine comprising a guide groove opened on the outer peripheral side of a pedestal holder formed on the lower side of the pedestal holder and attached to the lower end of a needle rod, vertically penetrated needle-inserting holes formed in the upper pedestal of a needle holder to be pulled from or inserted into the guide groove. Punching needles are inserted into the needle-inserting holes, and crank portions disposed in the head portions of the punching needles are nipped with the pedestal and the pedestal holder to fix the punching needles.

The claimed invention is defined by the features disclosed in the independent claim.

The dependent claims relate to further aspects of the claimed invention.

The present inventors have recognized the need for articles of footwear having uppers that include felting to be durable and rugged, comfortable and aesthetically pleasing. The present subject matter can help provide a solution to this problem by providing an upper for an article of footwear that includes felting seams that are not excessively thick or bulky, that provide adequate strength between panels of material of the upper, and that can be made in an aesthetically pleasing pattern.

Furthermore, the present inventors have recognized, among other things, that conventional felting or needle punching machines are typically large systems that are configured for bulk processing of textiles, typically by moving a large piece, such as from a roll, linearly through the machine. Thus, it can be difficult or impossible for conventional felting machines to produce highly customized, unique or non-repeating patterns. Another problem with conventional felting machines is the lack of a needle punching head having a high density of needles. This can result in conventional felting machines having to spend a significant amount of time in producing a felting pattern of a desired density.

The present subject matter can help provide a solution to these problems, such as by providing a felting or needle punching machine that is capable of felting along a highly customized, non-repeating felting pattern with a needle head having a needle density that can help reduce manufacturing times. For example, a needle punching machine can include a stitching jig having a multi-row and multi-column matrix of felting needles. The stitching jig can be reciprocated relative to a feeding frame that can move along a multi-direction feed path, such as via a computer programmable actuation mechanism that controls a felting path of the stitching jig.

In an example, a needle assembly for a stitching machine can comprise: a stitching jig comprising a needle holder, a needle clamp hoop and a fixing jig. The needle holder can have a plurality of needle sockets configured to hold a plurality of needles. The needle clamp hoop can be connected to the needle holder to retain needles in the plurality of sockets. The fixing jig can be connected to the needle clamp hoop configured to couple with a reciprocating bar of the stitching machine.

In an example, a needle punching machine can comprise: a punching bar, a presser bar, a stitching jig, a presser foot and a hook cover plate. The punching bar can be connected to the needle punching machine and configured to be reciprocated. The presser bar can be connected to the needle punching machine and configured to be locked into a stationary disposition. The stitching jig can comprise a fixing jig coupled to the punching bar, and a needle holder having a plurality of sockets. The presser foot can comprise a lifter coupled to the presser bar, and a plurality of through-bores configured to align with the plurality of sockets. The hook cover plate can be connected to the needle punching machine opposite the presser foot. The hook cover plate can include a plurality of holes configured to align with the plurality of sockets and the plurality of through-bores.

In an example, a method of manufacturing a shoe upper can comprise: positioning a first sheet of material for a shoe upper adjacent a hook cover plate including a first matrix of holes; positioning a second sheet of material for the shoe upper to at least partially overlap with the first sheet of material at an overlap adjacent the plurality of holes; reciprocating a stitching jig to repetitively advance a plurality of barbed needles arranged in a second matrix matching the first matrix through the overlap of first and second sheets of material and into the plurality of holes; and translating the first and second sheets of material to move the overlap along the first matrix of holes.

In an example, a method for manufacturing an upper for an article of footwear can comprise: laying out a first sheet of material; positioning a second sheet of material to at least partially overlap with the first sheet of material at an overlap; positioning a felt material adjacent the overlap so that the second sheet of material is at least partially between the first sheet of material and the felt material; and felting the felt material to draw fibers of the felt material through the first and second sheets of material to join the first and second sheets of material at a felting seam.

<FIG> is a perspective view of article of footwear <NUM> having felting 12A on upper <NUM>, which is connected to sole structure <NUM>. Article of footwear <NUM> includes lateral side <NUM> and medial side <NUM> having felting 12A and 12B (<FIG>), respectively. Article of footwear <NUM> can also include forefoot region <NUM>, midfoot region <NUM>, and heel region <NUM>. Sole structure <NUM> can include outsole <NUM> and midsole <NUM>. Upper <NUM> can include lace <NUM>, tongue <NUM> and collar element <NUM>. Upper <NUM> can be comprised of a plurality of panels of different or identical type of material, such as toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. Various panels of upper <NUM> can be connected to each other via felting 12A.

In the example shown, upper <NUM> includes toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> that together at least partially surround a foot. Each of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> can wrap, at least partially, around medial and lateral sides of upper <NUM>. For example, toe panel <NUM> can form a vamp for footwear <NUM>, extending from the lateral MTP joint area of the foot, around the toe cap of footwear <NUM><NUM>, and to the medial metatarsophalangeal (MTP) joint area of the foot. Likewise, heel panel <NUM> can form a heel counter and quarters for footwear <NUM>, extending from the lateral midfoot area of the foot, around the heel cap of footwear <NUM>, and to the medial midfoot area of the foot. Collectively, panels <NUM> and <NUM>, along with other parts of footwear <NUM>, form a housing when joined to sole structure <NUM> for at least partially enclosing the foot. Upper <NUM> can include apertures <NUM>, insole <NUM> (<FIG>), lining <NUM> and foot space <NUM>. Components of upper <NUM>, including tongue <NUM>, collar element <NUM>, toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>, can be formed of various materials, such as knitted, woven, natural or synthetic materials. Toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> can be comprised of one or more sub-panels. Each panel <NUM> and <NUM> and sub-panel of footwear <NUM> can be joined together using conventional stitching and seaming structures and methods. Additionally, as described herein, various panels and sub-panels can be joined using a felting stitch that results in a felting pattern or "felting" that can indirectly or directly link the panels <NUM> and <NUM> together such as via a backing panel. In the example, shown, felting 12A extends across anterior-posterior ends or edges of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. The ends or edges of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> can be arranged in an abutting or overlapping relationship. Felting 12A can form a junction therebetween to mechanically interlock panels <NUM> and <NUM>, thereby reducing or eliminating the need for separate strengthening stitching that directly links panel <NUM> and panel <NUM>. Additionally, felting 12A can have different densities on the materials of panels <NUM> and <NUM> to provide varying levels of frictional interlock, as discussed in greater detail below. Felting 12A can have a gradient to provide a transition between the colors, textures and materials, and combinations thereof, of panels <NUM> and <NUM>. Furthermore, felting 12A can be shaped to provide aesthetic aspects to footwear <NUM>. The structure, shape and density of felting 12A can be controlled and fabricated using the stitching machine and multi-needle felting assembly (needle assembly for a stitching machine) of <FIG> described herein.

Forefoot region <NUM> generally includes portions of footwear <NUM> corresponding with the toes and the joints connecting the metatarsals with the phalanges (the MTP joints). Midfoot region <NUM> generally includes portions of footwear <NUM> corresponding with the arch area of the foot. Heel region <NUM> generally corresponds with the heel area of the foot, including the calcaneus bone. Lateral side <NUM> and medial side <NUM> extend through each of regions <NUM> - <NUM> in an anterior-posterior direction. Regions <NUM> - <NUM> and sides <NUM> and <NUM> are not intended to demarcate precise areas of footwear <NUM>. Rather, regions <NUM> - <NUM> and sides <NUM> and <NUM> are intended to represent general areas of footwear <NUM> to aid in the discussion of footwear <NUM>.

Felting of the present disclosure, such as felting 12A and 12B, can be located in various places and in various orientations in each of the regions and sides of footwear <NUM>. It can, however, be desirable to position felting away from high stress points of footwear <NUM>. For example, it can be desirable to position felting away from the MTP joint to avoid stressing the felting fibers due to the repeated bending of the foot. In the example described herein, felting 12A is located along the tarsals, posterior of the MTP joint, and felting 12B is located along the instep of the foot, posterior of the MTP joint. Felting can additionally or alternatively be located on the distal superior surface of toe panel <NUM>, on the posterior surface of heel panel <NUM>, on tongue <NUM> and other locations throughout footwear <NUM>. However, it is contemplated that the stitching machine and multi-needle felting assembly (needle assembly for a stitching machine) of <FIG> described herein can provide stitching strong enough to be applied to a high stress region of upper <NUM>, such as the MTP joint area, without experiencing premature degradation.

Tongue <NUM> can be connected to toe panel <NUM> and can extend under lace <NUM> to enhance the comfort and adjustability of footwear <NUM>. Tongue <NUM> can extend between opposing portions of toe panel <NUM> and opposing portions of heel panel <NUM>. Opposing portions of heel panel <NUM> can be fitted with collar element <NUM>. Collar element <NUM> is located in at least heel region <NUM>. Collar element <NUM> and tongue <NUM> form an opening for providing an access point for a foot into the interior of upper <NUM>. Lace <NUM> extends through various lace apertures <NUM> and across throat area <NUM> of upper <NUM> to permit a wearer of footwear <NUM> to modify dimensions of upper <NUM> and accommodate the proportions of the foot. Lace <NUM> can operate in a generally conventional manner to tighten upper <NUM> around the foot when lace <NUM> is cinched, thereby shrinking the size of foot space <NUM> of the housing formed by panels <NUM> and <NUM>. When lace <NUM> is loosened, upper <NUM> is also loosened to enlarge the size of foot space <NUM> of the housing. Footwear <NUM> can alternatively be provided with other types of fastening systems, such as electronic, elastic, hook and loop fastener and similar systems.

A foot of a wearer of footwear <NUM> can rest on sole structure <NUM>, while upper <NUM> surrounds the foot to maintain the foot inserted into footwear <NUM>. Sole structure <NUM> is secured to upper <NUM> and extends between the foot and the ground when footwear <NUM> is worn. Midsole <NUM> is secured to lower portions of upper <NUM> and can be secured to upper <NUM> by adhesive, stitching or other suitable means.

Suitable materials for midsole <NUM> include polymer foam materials such as ethylvinylacetate or polyurethane, or any other material that compresses resiliently so as to attenuate ground reaction forces (i.e., provide cushioning) when compressed between the foot and the ground during walking, running, or other ambulatory or athletic activities associated with a human gait or movement of the foot.

Insole <NUM> (<FIG>) can typically comprises a removable insert disposed atop midsole <NUM>, and can provide additional cushioning or ventilation (e.g. by including perforations). Insole <NUM> can be located within upper <NUM> and is positioned to extend under a lower or inferior surface of the foot.

Outsole <NUM> is secured to a lower surface of midsole <NUM> and may be formed from a wear-resistant rubber material that is textured to impart traction. Outsole <NUM> can be attached to the lower surface of midsole <NUM> by adhesive or other suitable means. Suitable materials for outsole <NUM> include polymers, e.g., polyether-block copolyamide polymers (sold as Pebax® by ATOFINA Chemicals of Philadelphia, Pa. ), and nylon resins such as Zytel®, sold by Dupont. Other suitable materials for outsole <NUM> and midsole <NUM> can also be used as are known in the art. Outsole <NUM> can include various features for providing traction, such as lugs and ribs.

Midsole <NUM> may incorporate fluid-filled chambers, plates, moderators, or other elements that further attenuate forces, enhance stability, or influence motions of the foot, or midsole <NUM> may be primarily formed from a fluid-filled chamber. An air bladder can comprise two plies of polymeric membrane, as is described in <CIT>. In another example, a four-ply air bladder can be used, as is described in <CIT>. In yet another example, a fabric cushioning element can be used, as is described in <CIT>. The entire contents of <CIT>; <CIT>; and <CIT>. In yet other examples, a bladder may be filled with other gases, such as nitrogen, helium or so-called dense gases such as sulfur hexafluoride, a liquid, or gel.

Upper <NUM> and sole structure <NUM> can be configured to enhance the appearance, comfort and performance of footwear during a variety of activities. Although the present description is written with reference to a general purpose athletic shoe, the disclosure of the present application can be applied equally to other types of footwear, such as, but not limited to, dress shoes, running shoes, leisure shoes, fashion shoes, golf shoes, football cleats, soccer cleats, baseball cleats, tennis shoes, sandals, boots, slippers and the like. Additionally, the disclosure of the present application may be used in other articles of manufacture including textiles, articles of apparel and articles of clothing.

<FIG> is a cross-sectional view of article of footwear <NUM> of <FIG> taken along a toe-to-heel cut to show insole <NUM> and lining layer <NUM> within internal foot space <NUM>. A portion of lining layer <NUM> is broken away in <FIG> to show felting 12B on an interior side of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>.

Upper <NUM> is formed from various layers including those formed by toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> that combine to provide a structure for securely and comfortably receiving a foot. Although the configuration of upper <NUM> may vary significantly, the various elements generally define a void within footwear <NUM> for receiving and securing the foot relative to sole structure <NUM> within foot space <NUM>. Additionally, upper <NUM> can include internal layers, such as lining layer <NUM>. Lining <NUM> can provide a smooth, aesthetically appealing, comfortable surface within foot space <NUM> for the foot and can line the entirety or most of upper <NUM> in foot space <NUM>. Panels <NUM> and <NUM> form at least a portion of an exterior surface of upper <NUM>. Lining layer <NUM> forms at least a portion of an interior surface of upper <NUM>, i.e., the surface defining foot space <NUM>.

Panels <NUM> and <NUM> and lining layer <NUM> may be formed from a variety of materials (e.g., textiles, fabrics, polymer foam, leather, synthetics) that can be stitched, bonded or felted together. As an example, panel <NUM> can be formed of a smooth material, such as leather or a synthetic material, while panel <NUM> can be formed of a breathable material, such as a mesh, woven or knitted material. In many conventional shoes, panels of starkly contrasting materials adjoin at edges that form distinct lines. Those lines can be covered with various foxing, striping, piping or webbing, but those items themselves can leave sharply visible edge lines and add potentially undesirable thickness and stiffness to the shoe. Upper <NUM> of footwear <NUM> can, however, include foxing, striping, piping or webbing.

Felting 12A can be configured to provide a comfortable, aesthetically pleasing joint between toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. Felting 12A can include backing panel <NUM>, which can be located in the interior I of upper <NUM> in foot space <NUM>. Backing panel <NUM> provides a material having fibers that can be extended into toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>, such as by using the stitching machine and multi-needle felting assembly of <FIG> described herein. For example, fibers of backing panel <NUM> can be pushed or pulled through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> using barbed needles to the exterior E of footwear <NUM>. The displaced fibers of backing panel <NUM> remain connected to backing panel <NUM> to interlock each of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> with backing panel <NUM>. The portions of the fibers extended out to the exterior E can affect the feel and look of upper <NUM>.

<FIG> is a schematic view of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> of upper <NUM> for article of footwear <NUM> joined by felting 12A. Felting 12A comprises fibers of a backing panel, e.g. backing panel <NUM> of <FIG>, that are pushed or pulled, so as to extend, through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> to interlock the panels of upper <NUM> with backing panel <NUM>, thereby linking panels <NUM> and <NUM> of upper <NUM> to each other.

In the example of <FIG>, toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> are positioned in an overlapping relationship such that posterior edge <NUM> of toe panel <NUM> overlaps anterior edge <NUM> of heel panel <NUM>, as can be seen in <FIG>. Portions of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> near posterior edge <NUM> and anterior edge <NUM> can be joined by stitch <NUM>. Stitch <NUM> comprises an initial connection between toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> that provides immobilization between the two panels in order to allow the felting process to take place. In other examples, stitch <NUM> is omitted. Stitch <NUM> may comprise a single fiber or strand having a zigzag shape. In yet other examples, a stitch having a different shape or different number of strands can be used. For example, a smoothly curved stitch or a two- or three-strand stitch may be used. However, the fastening provided by stitch <NUM>, or its alternatives, need not provide the main securing force between panels <NUM> and <NUM> as can be provided by felting 12A.

Felting 12A simultaneously provides mechanical coupling between panels <NUM> and <NUM> and a customizable, aesthetically variable arrangement or pattern on upper <NUM>. In the example of <FIG>, felting 12A forms a gradient between panels <NUM> and <NUM> that provides a linear change in the density of felting 12A from panel <NUM> to panel <NUM>. Thus, felting 12A can provide a transition between panel <NUM> and panel <NUM> that softens the hard edge formed at the juncture of posterior edge <NUM> and anterior edge <NUM>. Felting 12A can also be used to provide an aesthetically pleasing transition between toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>, such as a bleed pattern. In the example of <FIG> and <FIG>, the density of felting 12A trails off, or becomes reduced in density as it extends from heel panel <NUM> into toe panel <NUM>. As such, backing panel <NUM> can match the color or material of heel panel <NUM> and felting 12A can appear to simulate a fading of heel panel <NUM> into toe panel <NUM>.

<FIG> is a cross-sectional view of felting 12A of <FIG> showing an embodiment where backing panel <NUM> is positioned along an interior I of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. Backing panel <NUM> includes fibers <NUM> that extend through to an exterior E of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. The extension of fibers <NUM> through panels <NUM> and <NUM> can be produced utilizing the systems, machines, tools and devices described below with reference to <FIG>.

The dimensions, e.g. thicknesses, of panels <NUM> and <NUM> and backing panel <NUM> are, unless otherwise specified, not drawn to scale and are exaggerated for illustrative purposes. Together, toe panel <NUM>, heel panel <NUM> and backing panel <NUM> combine to provide upper <NUM> with a plurality of zones on exterior E of footwear <NUM>. In the example of <FIG>, zones Z1 through Z3 are shown, each zone having a different material and felting combination.

In the example shown, backing panel <NUM> is positioned directly against major surfaces of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> within the interior <NUM>, with toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> partially overlapping. Fibers <NUM> of backing panel extend through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. Tips and loop-ends of fibers <NUM> extend beyond an exterior E of toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> in order to provide a visual and tangible finish to major surfaces of panels <NUM> and <NUM> from the exterior E. As such, backing panel <NUM> can be fabricated from a material that is made of a plurality of fibers or strands, or a jumbled mesh of a single strand or fiber or multiple strands or fibers. In examples, backing panel <NUM> can comprise a panel fabricated from a plurality of densely packed fibers, such as felt or wool. In examples, a width of backing panel <NUM> can be wider than felting 12A, as shown in <FIG>. In other examples, the width of backing panel <NUM> can be approximately the same width as felting <NUM> A. In additional examples, backing panel <NUM> can extend across an entirety of, or a substantial portion of, the interior surfaces of upper <NUM>. In such an example, backing panel <NUM> can, but need not, act as or replace lining <NUM>.

In an example, panels <NUM> and <NUM> have different color and texture. For example, panel <NUM> can comprise leather and panel <NUM> can comprise wool fabric. In such an example, backing panel <NUM> can comprise a felt having the color of heel panel <NUM>. In an example, zone Z1 comprises a heel region where upper <NUM> has the appearance of unfelted material of heel panel <NUM>. Thus, in the example of <FIG> and <FIG>, heel panel <NUM> comprises unfelted wool fabric. Zone Z2 comprises a toe region where upper <NUM> has the appearance of felted material of toe panel <NUM>. Thus, in the example of <FIG> and <FIG>, toe panel <NUM> comprises a region of felted leather. Zone Z3 comprises a toe region where upper <NUM> has the appearance of unfelted material of toe panel <NUM>. Thus, in the example of <FIG> and <FIG>, toe panel <NUM> comprises unfelted leather. Other zones could be included in upper <NUM>. For example, fibers of backing <NUM> could be extended through heel panel <NUM> to produce a zone where a heel region of upper <NUM> has the appearance of felted material of heel panel <NUM>. Thus, in the example of <FIG> and <FIG>, heel panel <NUM> may include a felted wool fabric zone between zone <NUM> and zone <NUM>.

Additionally, the degree, density or amount of felting, e.g. the quantity of fibers <NUM> from backing panel <NUM> extending through the material of upper <NUM>, can depend on the density of needles used in a stitching machine (e.g., stitching machine <NUM> discussed below) or the pattern that the stitching machine makes relative to upper <NUM>. The stitching machine can be configured to provide different densities of felting. For example, a higher density of felting can be provided in zone <NUM> near heel panel <NUM> so the felting appears similar to the texture of heel panel <NUM>, and a lower density of felting can be provided in zone <NUM> near toe panel <NUM> so the felting appears similar to the texture of toe panel <NUM> (as is illustrated in <FIG>).

Felting 12A described thus far, as well as other felting shapes, patterns, designs and structures can be produced using the stitching machine and multi-needle felting assembly of <FIG> described below.

<FIG> is a perspective view of stitching machine <NUM> in which multi-needle felting assembly <NUM> of the present disclosure can be used. Stitching machine <NUM> can include housing <NUM>, feeding frame <NUM>, actuation mechanism <NUM>, foot pedal <NUM> and control panel <NUM>. Multi-needle felting assembly <NUM> can include stitching jig <NUM> and cover plate <NUM>. <FIG> is a schematic of stitching machine <NUM> of <FIG> showing various components for control and automation of feeding frame <NUM> and multi-needle felting assembly <NUM>, such as motor 97A and motor 97B. <FIG> and <FIG> are discussed concurrently.

Housing <NUM> can include motor 97A (<FIG>) that can cause reciprocation of components of stitching machine <NUM>. For example, stitching jig <NUM> can be mounted to a punching bar <NUM> (<FIG>) that causes a block of felting needles to reciprocate through holes in cover plate <NUM>. Motor 97A can be activated by foot pedal <NUM>. A material component, such as a footwear upper or the like, can be connected to feeding frame <NUM> in order to receive stitching from stitching jig <NUM>. Feeding frame <NUM> can be moved by actuation mechanism <NUM> in order to move different portions of the material component relative to stitching jig <NUM> and cover plate <NUM>. Actuation mechanism <NUM> can include various components to move feeding frame <NUM>, such as motor 97B, actuator 97C, drives, belts, gears, pulleys and the like. For example, stitching jig <NUM> can be configured to move in an up and down manner along an X axis, while actuation mechanism <NUM> can be configured to move or translate feeding frame <NUM> along a Y axis and a Z axis that are perpendicular to the X axis. As such, feeding frame <NUM> can direct a <NUM>-dimensional felting pattern to me made on the material component loaded into feeding frame <NUM> while stitching jig <NUM> is reciprocated into and out of the material component perpendicular to the <NUM>-dimensional felting pattern. Thus, feeding frame <NUM> can direct a multi-directional felting path for the material component. Control panel <NUM> can be used to program stitching machine <NUM> to move feeding frame <NUM> through various patterns to provide stitching or felting along different paths and densities on the material component. Stitching machine <NUM> can thus include various computer elements for receiving, storing and reading programming instructions, such as microprocessors 95A, a control circuit or central processing units (CPUs) 95B, memory 95C, input devices (e.g., a keypad) 95D, output devices (e.g., a monitor) 95E, a power supply 95F', a power switch <NUM> and the like, as shown in <FIG>. In an example, stitching machine <NUM>, except for stitching jig <NUM> and cover plate <NUM>, can comprise an AMS-221EN-<NUM> sewing machine commercially available from JUKI Corporation. For example, the aforementioned commercially available sewing machine can be operated with stitching jig <NUM> and cover plate <NUM> after removing the bobbin case and hook.

<FIG> is close-up view of multi-needle felting assembly <NUM> of stitching machine <NUM> of <FIG> showing stitching jig <NUM>, hook cover plate <NUM> and presser foot <NUM>. <FIG> is a partially exploded view of multi-needle felting assembly <NUM> of <FIG> showing hook cover plate <NUM>, presser foot <NUM> and stitching jig <NUM>. <FIG> and <FIG> are discussed concurrently.

Multi-needle felting assembly <NUM> includes presser foot <NUM>, as well as stitching jig <NUM> and hook cover plate <NUM>. Stitching jig <NUM> can be mounted to punching bar <NUM> and presser foot <NUM> can be mounted to presser bar <NUM>. Stitching jig <NUM> comprises fixing jig <NUM>, needle clamp hoop <NUM> and needle holder <NUM>. Presser foot <NUM> includes lifter <NUM> and plate <NUM>.

As shown in <FIG>, lifter <NUM> of presser foot <NUM> can be connected to presser bar <NUM>, such as via fastener <NUM>. Lifter <NUM> includes a bore or socket (e.g., between flanges 158A and 158B of <FIG>) into which presser bar <NUM> can be inserted. Fastener <NUM> can penetrate the socket to engage presser bar <NUM>. Presser bar <NUM> can be held in a stationary position relative to housing <NUM> of stitching machine <NUM> (<FIG>). Presser bar <NUM> can, however, be configured to be raised and lowered relative to cover plate <NUM>, such as via an action of an operator of stitching machine <NUM>. For example, housing <NUM> can include a lever that raises and lowers presser bar <NUM> and a locking mechanism that immobilizes presser bar <NUM>. As such, plate <NUM> of presser foot <NUM> can be adjusted to a desired height above cover plate <NUM> to allow material components of different thicknesses to be inserted between presser foot <NUM> and cover plate <NUM>, with an appropriate or desired amount of pressure to be applied by presser foot <NUM> onto the material component.

Plate <NUM> of presser foot <NUM> includes needle holes <NUM>. Cover plate <NUM> includes needle holes <NUM>. Needle holes <NUM> and needle holes <NUM> can be arranged to have the same size of holes that are arranged in the same pattern. Plate <NUM> has a smaller subset of holes <NUM> as compared to holes <NUM>, but they may be arranged in the same pattern. Presser bar <NUM> can hold presser foot <NUM> so that holes <NUM> align with holes <NUM>. Holes <NUM> and, optionally, holes <NUM>, are configured as through-bores through plate <NUM> and cover plate <NUM>, respectively.

Punching bar <NUM> is coupled to stitching machine <NUM> in a moveable manner so as to be able to be reciprocated relative to cover plate <NUM>, as discussed above. Punching bar <NUM> comprises a reciprocating bar that couples to fixing jig <NUM>. As shown in <FIG>, fixing jig <NUM> includes socket <NUM> into which punching bar <NUM> can be inserted. Fixing jig <NUM> can include a fastener (not shown) to secure punching bar <NUM> within socket <NUM>. Fixing jig <NUM> connects to needle clamp hoop <NUM>. For example, fasteners <NUM> can be inserted through fixing jig <NUM> and into needle clamp hoop <NUM>. Needle clamp hoop <NUM> can comprise a body that facilitates attachment of a block of needles to fixing jig <NUM> and punching bar <NUM>. For example, needle clamp hoop <NUM> can include socket <NUM> into which needle holder <NUM> can be disposed. Needle holder <NUM> can comprise a body having a plurality of sockets for receiving needles <NUM>. The plurality of sockets can be arranged in the same pattern as holes <NUM> and <NUM>. As such, needles <NUM> can extend from needle holder <NUM> of stitching jig <NUM>, through holes <NUM> in presser foot <NUM> and into holes <NUM> in cover plate <NUM>.

As shown in <FIG>, needle holes <NUM> in plate <NUM> of presser foot <NUM> can be arranged in a matrix. For example, <FIG> shows a four-by-nine matrix having four columns and nine rows. Two columns are illustrated as having four of holes <NUM> and two columns are illustrated as having five of holes <NUM>. Each row is illustrated as having two of holes <NUM>. The columns can be offset from the rows such that each row does not include a hole <NUM> in each column. In other words, the columns and rows are offset so that the density of holes <NUM> can be increased by having holes <NUM> partially overlap in adjacent rows and columns. Holes <NUM> in cover plate <NUM> can be arranged in the same matrix pattern with a larger amount of holes <NUM>.

For example, as shown in <FIG>, holes <NUM> can be arranged in a four-by-nine matrix wherein each row has two of holes <NUM> and there are two columns with six of holes <NUM> and two columns with five of holes <NUM>. Thus, even though a different amount of holes are present, the holes are sized and arranged so that each of holes <NUM> in presser foot <NUM> aligns with one of holes <NUM> in cover plate <NUM>. Because cover plate <NUM> includes a greater number of holes <NUM>, the position of presser foot <NUM> and needles <NUM> can be adjusted relative to cover plate <NUM> without having to change the position of cover plate <NUM> to realign holes <NUM>. As shown in <FIG>, needle holder <NUM> has a plurality of sockets (e.g., needle bores <NUM>) arranged in the same matrix pattern as that of holes <NUM> and holes <NUM>. Holes <NUM> and <NUM> can, in various examples have diameters of approximately <NUM> millimeters.

<FIG> is an exploded view of multi-needle felting assembly <NUM> of <FIG> showing presser foot <NUM> and stitching jig <NUM>, including needle holder <NUM>, needle clamp hoop <NUM> and fixing jig <NUM>. In various embodiments, presser foot <NUM>, needle holder <NUM>, needle clamp hoop <NUM> and fixing jig <NUM> can be fabricated from steel materials.

Fixing jig <NUM> includes a base <NUM> and a neck <NUM>. Base <NUM> can include coupling bores <NUM> and neck <NUM> can include socket <NUM>. Base <NUM> can comprise a hexahedron body having first major surface 130A and second major surface 130B that are connected by four side surfaces <NUM>. Neck <NUM> can comprise a hexahedron body connected to first major surface 130A. Neck <NUM> can include first major surface 134A and second major surface 134B that are connected by four side surfaces <NUM>. Base <NUM> and neck <NUM> can have other shapes than hexahedron, such as cylindrical or oval, and can have smooth or chamfered sides rather than edges. The base <NUM> has a large enough surface area to cover the matrix of holes <NUM> in presser foot <NUM> and bores <NUM> in needle holder <NUM> in order to ensure adequate force transmission from punching bar <NUM> to each of needles <NUM>. Neck <NUM> and base <NUM> can be fabricated from the same monolithic piece of material, such as via machining. In other examples, neck <NUM> can be attached to base <NUM> such as via welding or brazing.

Needle clamp hoop <NUM> can include back wall <NUM> and side flanges 140A and 140B. Backing wall <NUM> can include coupling bores <NUM> and each side flange 140A and 140B can include coupling bores 144A and 144B. Back wall <NUM> can comprise a hexahedron body having the same perimeter shape as base <NUM> of fixing jig <NUM>. Coupling bores <NUM> are configured to align with coupling bores <NUM>. Fasteners, such as fasteners <NUM> (<FIG>) can be inserted through coupling bores <NUM> and into coupling bores <NUM> to connect fixing jig <NUM> to needle clamp hoop <NUM>. Side flanges 140A and 140B can extend from edges of back wall <NUM> so that side flange 140A, back wall <NUM> and side flange 140B for a U-shaped body forming socket <NUM>. Socket <NUM> can comprise a hexahedron shape that can match the shape of needle holder <NUM>. Flanges 140A and 140B can comprise hexahedron shaped bodies that extend from back wall <NUM>. Flanges 140A and 140B can be fabricated from the same monolithic piece of material as back wall <NUM>, such as via machining. In other examples, flanges 140A and 140B can be attached to back wall <NUM> such as via welding or brazing. Needle clamp hoop <NUM> is illustrated and described as having a particular rectangular shape. However, needle clamp hoop <NUM> can have other shapes that permit coupling to fixing jig <NUM> and reception of needle holder <NUM>. It is desirable that needle clamp hoop <NUM> be firmly engaged with fixing jig <NUM> and needle holder <NUM> to prevent vibration, misalignment or improper transmission of forces from punching bar <NUM> (<FIG>) to needles <NUM> (<FIG>).

Needle holder <NUM> can include block <NUM> and needle bores. Block <NUM> can comprise a hexahedron shaped body that fits within socket <NUM>. Needle holder <NUM> can include coupling bores <NUM>. Fasteners can be inserted through coupling bores 144A and 144B in needle clamp hoop <NUM> to engage coupling bores <NUM> of needle holder <NUM>. Needle holder <NUM> can have a plurality of coupling bores <NUM> so that the position of block <NUM> can be adjusted in socket <NUM>. Needle bores are configured to receive the non-pointed or non-barbed ends of needles <NUM>. Needle bores can comprise through-bores that extend all the way through needle holder <NUM> from a first major surface 151A to a second major surface 151B. Each of needle bores can be sized to receive one of needles <NUM> in a force-fit manner. Engagement of needle holder <NUM> with back wall <NUM> can help prevent needles <NUM>.

from being pushed out of needle bores during operation of stitching jig <NUM>. Needle holder <NUM> is described as having a rectangular shape, but can have other shapes that facilitate reception of needles <NUM> and assembly with needle clamp hoop <NUM>. Assembly of needle holder <NUM> with needle clamp hoop <NUM> and fixing jig <NUM> can be configured to align needle bores <NUM> with needle holes <NUM> of presser foot <NUM>.

Presser foot <NUM> includes lifter <NUM> and plate <NUM>. Lifter <NUM> can comprise an elongate body having first end 152A and second end 152B and slot <NUM>. Lifter <NUM> can have a variety of different cross-sectional profiles between first end 152A and second end 152B. For example, in the depicted embodiment, lifter <NUM> has a C-shaped cross-sectional profile wherein main body <NUM> includes flanges 158A and 158B that can provide strengthening to main body <NUM>, for example. Lifter <NUM> can be configured to be coupled to presser bar <NUM> (<FIG>). For example, presser bar <NUM> can include a bore (not shown) that can be threadably coupled to fastener <NUM> (<FIG>). Fastener <NUM> can be extended through slot <NUM> in main body <NUM> before coupling to the bore of presser bar <NUM> to connect presser foot <NUM> to presser bar <NUM>. Slot <NUM> can be oblong in shape, or wider that the width of fastener <NUM>, so that main body <NUM> can be adjustably positioned relative to presser bar <NUM>.

Plate <NUM> of presser foot <NUM> can comprise body <NUM> having first major surface 162A and second major surface 162B that can be connected by side surfaces <NUM>. Side surfaces <NUM> can be hexahedron and can include one or more chamfers <NUM> to remove sharp edges and prevent snagging with material components being slid underneath plate <NUM>. Lifter <NUM> can be attached to an edge of plate <NUM> so that holes <NUM> can be positioned over holes <NUM> of cover plate <NUM> without interference from lifter <NUM> and presser bar <NUM>. Plate <NUM> and lifter <NUM> can be fabricated from the same monolithic piece of material, such as via machining. In other examples, plate <NUM> and lifter <NUM> can be attached to each other such as via welding or brazing. Lifter <NUM> and plate <NUM> are described as illustrated and described as having particular shapes, but can be fabricated in other shapes that provide enough surface area for holes <NUM> and that can provide coupling to presser bar <NUM>, for example.

<FIG> is a schematic view of stitching jig <NUM> of <FIG> having barbed needles <NUM> pushed through layers <NUM> and <NUM> of shoe upper <NUM>. Shoe upper <NUM> can include toe panel <NUM>, heel panel <NUM> and backing panel <NUM>. As discussed above with reference to <FIG>, toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> can be positioned to partially overlap at lap joint <NUM>. Backing panel <NUM> can be positioned to cover lap joint <NUM>. Toe panel <NUM> can be partially skived at lap joint <NUM> to form thinned portion <NUM>. Backing panel <NUM> can also be skived or thinned at or adjacent lap joint <NUM>, such as via inclusion of chamfer <NUM>. Chamfer <NUM> and thinned portion <NUM> can assist in eliminating or reducing bulges in shoe upper <NUM>. Stitching jig <NUM> can be reciprocated (as shown by arrows A1 and A2) through backing panel <NUM>, heel panel <NUM> and toe panel <NUM> to produce felting 12A (<FIG>). In particular, needles <NUM> can include hooks or barbs that grab or snag fibers <NUM> of backing panel <NUM> to push fibers <NUM> through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>.

<FIG> is a schematic view of stitching jig <NUM> of <FIG> with barbed needles <NUM> withdrawn from layers <NUM> and <NUM> of shoe upper <NUM> to show felting fibers <NUM> entrained in shoe upper <NUM> layers. Barbed needles <NUM> can include small barbs or hooks <NUM> (<FIG>) at distal portions <NUM> that become entrained with the fibers or strands of backing panel <NUM> to grab fibers <NUM>. Hooks <NUM><NUM> can be shaped and oriented so that when needles <NUM> move downward through backing panel <NUM> the fibers or strands of backing panel <NUM> attach to hooks <NUM>, thereby also dragging fibers <NUM> through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. However, hooks <NUM> can be shaped and oriented so that as needles <NUM> move upward through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>, hooks <NUM> release fibers <NUM> so that fibers <NUM> remain extended through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> and hooks <NUM> do not pull fibers <NUM> back up as stitching jig <NUM> move back up. Stitching jig <NUM> can be reciprocated to repeatedly move needles through backing panel <NUM> and push fibers <NUM> through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM> to produce felting 12A. The longer stitching jig <NUM> is held in one place, the more of fibers <NUM> will be pushed through toe panel <NUM> and heel panel <NUM>. Thus, the density of felting produced by stitching jig <NUM> can be varied by the number of needles <NUM> and length of time the stitching process is carried out.

<FIG> is a schematic side view of barbed needle <NUM> for use in the stitching jig of <FIG>. Needle <NUM> can extend from distal portion <NUM> to proximal portion <NUM>, and can include hooks <NUM>. In an example, needles <NUM> can be commercially available needles, such as those available from Groz-Beckert Industrial CO. In other examples, commercially available needles can be cut down to shorter lengths for coupling with bores of needle holder <NUM>. For example, proximal portions <NUM> of needles <NUM> can be shortened so that the total length L of each needle <NUM> is approximately <NUM> millimeters. As shown in <FIG>, hooks <NUM> are oriented downward toward distal portion <NUM> so that needle <NUM> can push fibers through a material. In other embodiments, hooks <NUM> can be oriented upward toward proximal portion <NUM> so as to be configured to pull fibers through a material. The felting process described with reference to <FIG> can be used to manufacture shoe uppers having panels attached to each other via the felting process, as discussed with reference to <FIG>.

<FIG> is a plan view of various material component layers, or sheets, of shoe upper <NUM>, such as for article of footwear <NUM> of <FIG> and <FIG>, including medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B, medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B, needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM>, vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> and vamp <NUM>.

Quarters 202A and 202B can comprise portions of shoe upper <NUM> that form an outer layer of a heel portion of a shoe. Medial quarter 202A can comprise sole edge 212A, heel edge 214A, intermediate edge 216A, throat edge 218A and collar edge 220A. Lateral quarter 202B can comprise sole edge 212B, heel edge 214B, intermediate edge 216B, collar edge 220B and throat edge 222B. In an example, quarters 202A and 202B can be made of a lightweight, cloth material, such as a nylon mesh. In an example, quarters 202A and 202B can be approximately <NUM> millimeter thick.

Medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B can comprise portions of shoe upper <NUM> that form an inner layer of a heel portion of a shoe. Medial layer 204A can comprise sole edge 222A, heel edge 224A, intermediate edge 226A, throat edge 228A and collar edge 230A. Lateral layer 204B can comprise sole edge 222B, heel edge 224B, intermediate edge 226B, throat edge 228B and collar edge 230B. In an example, medial and lateral layers 204A and 204B can be made of a felt material and can be used as the basis of a felting layer. In an example, backing layers 204A and 204B can be approximately <NUM> millimeters thick.

Medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B can also comprise skiving areas 231A and 231B, respectively. In examples, skiving areas 231A and 231B can have widths of approximately <NUM> millimeters in order to permit sufficient overlap with skiving area <NUM> of vamp <NUM>. Skiving areas 231A and 231B can have a thickness or depth to accommodate the thickness of medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B when assembled. In examples, skiving areas 231A and 231B can have thicknesses of approximately <NUM> millimeters.

Needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM> can comprise a portion of shoe upper <NUM> that forms an inner layer of toe and lateral portions of a shoe. Needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM> can comprise toe edge <NUM>, sole edges 234A and 234B, heel edges 236A and 236B, throat edges 238A and 238B and collar edges 240A and 240B. In an example, needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM> can comprise a cloth material.

Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> can comprise portions of shoe upper <NUM> that form an inner layer of a toe portion of a shoe. Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> can comprise toe edge <NUM>, sole edges 244A and 244B, intermediate edges 246A and 246B and throat edges 248A and 248B. In an example, vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> can comprise canvas material.

Vamp <NUM> can comprise a portion of shoe upper <NUM> that forms an outer layer of a toe portion of a shoe. Vamp <NUM> can comprise toe edge <NUM>, sole edges 252A and 252B and intermediate edges 254A and 254B. Vamp <NUM> can also comprise skiving area <NUM> that can form throat area <NUM>. Skiving area <NUM> can be sufficiently large to accommodate the needle punching process described therein and also to permit folding of the shoe upper, such as around the throat area of the shoe. In an example, vamp <NUM> can comprise leather material. In an example, vamp <NUM> can be approximately <NUM> to <NUM> millimeters thick.

As described below with reference to <FIG>, medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B, medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B, needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM>, vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> and vamp <NUM> can be layered up and attached to fashion an upper for an article of footwear using, at least partially, multi-needle felting assembly <NUM> described above with reference to <FIG>.

<FIG> is a plan view of vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> attached to an interior side of vamp <NUM> of <FIG>. Vamp <NUM> is positioned so that inside surface <NUM> is showing and skiving <NUM> is facing up. Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> is uniform such that it is the same face up or face down. Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> has a similar profile shape as vamp <NUM>, but is smaller so that vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> can be bounded by vamp <NUM> when vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> is positioned, e.g., centered, on top of vamp <NUM>. Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> is positioned adjacent vamp <NUM> so that toe edges <NUM> and <NUM> are spaced from each other and intermediate edges 246A and 246B are spaced from intermediate edges 254A and 254B, respectively. Correspondingly, sole edges 244A and 244B will be spaced from sole edges 252A and 252B, respectively. Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> can be attached to vamp <NUM> to form a layered stack of material components comprising reinforced vamp <NUM>. Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> can be attached to vamp <NUM> using a variety of suitable methods. In embodiments, vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> is attached using hot melt adhesive. For example, HM-102P can be applied at a temperature of approximately <NUM>°-<NUM>° C.

<FIG> is a plan view of the outside of vamp <NUM>, medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B, and medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B (not visible) of <FIG> attached to each other via anchor stitching 264A and 264B. The material components of <FIG> form a layered stack comprising rough shoe upper <NUM>.

Medial quarter 202A can have the same shape and size as medial backing layer 204A, except medial backing layer 204A can have the addition of skiving area 231A. Medial quarter 202A can be positioned over the top of medial backing layer 204A so that skiving area 231A protrudes from behind medial quarter 202A. Lateral quarter 202B can have the same shape and size as lateral backing layer 204B, except lateral backing layer 204B can have the addition of skiving area 231B. Lateral quarter 202B can be positioned over the top of medial backing layer 204B so that skiving area 231B protrudes from behind lateral quarter 202B. Reinforced vamp <NUM> can be positioned with an exterior surface <NUM> facing outward (with skiving area <NUM> facing in) so that intermediate edges 264A and 264B cover skiving areas 231B and 231A, respectively, which are facing out.

Anchor stitching 264A and 264B can be provided to initially attach quarters 202A and 202B to vamp <NUM>, and backing layers 204A and 204B to quarters 202A and 202B, respectively. Anchor stitching 264A can be placed in three legs 264C, 264D and 264E. Anchor stitching 264B can be placed in three legs 264F, <NUM> and <NUM>. Anchor stitching 264A and 264B can be applied with a computer controlled stitching machine. Anchor stitching 264A and 264B can be constructed similarly to stitch <NUM> (<FIG>).

Anchor stitching leg 264C can be positioned to extend along edge 252A of vamp <NUM> and edge 212B of lateral quarter 202B. Anchor stitching leg 264D can positioned along edge 218B of lateral quarter 202B and can extend into vamp <NUM>. Anchor stitching leg 264E can be positioned to connect anchor stitching legs 264C and 264D, and can be positioned anywhere between anchor stitching legs 264C and 264D. Anchor stitching legs 264C and 264D can be positioned approximately <NUM> millimeters from the edges of vamp <NUM> and lateral quarter 202B. Anchor stitching 264A can have a stitch density of <NUM> to <NUM> stitches per inch (~<NUM> to <NUM> stitches per centimeter). Anchor stitching legs 264F, <NUM> and <NUM> can be positioned and configured similarly to anchor stitching legs 264C, 264D and 264E, respectively.

As mentioned, vamp <NUM> can be positioned so that intermediate edges 254A and 254B extend over skiving areas 231A and <NUM>1B, as can be best seen in <FIG>.

<FIG> is a schematic cross-sectional view of vamp <NUM>, medial quarter 202A, and medial backing layer 204A of <FIG> showing skiving area <NUM> of vamp <NUM>, skiving area 231A of backing layer 204A and anchor stitching 264E. The outer surface of medial quarter 202A is positioned adjacent skiving area <NUM> of vamp <NUM> so that lateral edge 216B is within skiving area <NUM>. Medial backing layer 204A is positioned adjacent the inner surface of medial quarter 202A so that skiving area 231A faces outward opposite skiving area <NUM>. Thus, skiving area 231A can align with skiving area <NUM> to limit the thickness of rough shoe upper <NUM>. Anchor stitching 264E can be applied through all three layers of vamp <NUM>, medial quarter 202A and medial backing layer 204A. Anchor stitching 264E can immobilize vamp <NUM>, medial quarter 202A and medial backing layer 204A for the formation of rough shoe upper <NUM> and in preparation for a felting process.

lID is a plan view of the inside of vamp <NUM> and medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B of rough shoe upper <NUM> after a felting process. Vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> is not shown in <FIG>. Medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B are disposed underneath medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B, respectively, and are therefore not visible in <FIG>. A felting process can be applied to the interior surface of medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B shown in <FIG> to form felting areas 268A and 268B. Felting areas 268A and 268B are applied across skiving area 231A of vamp <NUM> and skiving area <NUM> of backing layer 204A (<FIG>). In an example, stitching machine <NUM> described above can be operated at approximately <NUM> to <NUM> revolutions per minute (RPM) to reciprocate stitching jig <NUM>, with presser foot <NUM> positioned approximately <NUM> millimeters to <NUM> millimeters above cover plate <NUM>. Felt of backing layers 204A and 204B can be cleaned using compressed air. After the felting process rough shoe upper <NUM> can be passed through a metal detector machine to ensure that any metal particles are not present in rough shoe upper <NUM> that may have resulted from the felting process.

<FIG> is a plan view of the outside of rough shoe upper <NUM> of <FIG> showing the location for adhesive areas 270A and 270B between medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B and medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B, respectively. Medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B can be peeled back up to anchor stitching 264A and 264B, respectively, so that an adhesive can be applied between medial and lateral quarters 202A and 202B and medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B, respectively, at adhesive areas 270A and 270B. In embodiments, medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B are attached using a hot melt adhesive spray process. For example, HM-102P can be applied at a temperature of approximately <NUM>° - <NUM>° C. Hot melt adhesive can be applied to medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B in heel and quarter areas where needle punching or felting is not present.

<FIG> is a plan view of the outside of rough shoe upper <NUM> of <FIG> after cutting to form refined shoe upper <NUM>. Refined shoe upper <NUM> can include vamp <NUM>, medial quarter 202A and lateral quarter 202B, with medial and lateral backing layers <NUM> A and 204B and vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> being attached to the underside. Vamp <NUM> can be cut to remove throat area <NUM> and form throat cut <NUM>. Cutting of rough shoe upper <NUM> can be performed with a swing arm cutting machine.

<FIG> is a plan view of the inside of refined shoe upper <NUM> of <FIG> after needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM> is attached. Needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM> can be shaped to match the size and shape of refined shoe upper <NUM> after rough shoe upper <NUM> has been cut down to size. Needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM>, however, can be slightly smaller in collar area so that throat cut <NUM> of vamp <NUM> and throat edges 218A and 218B of medial and lateral backing layers 204A and 204B, respectively, are exposed. Needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM> can provide a single-piece reinforcement to the various components of refined shoe upper <NUM>, such as felting areas 268A and 268B. In an example, reinforcement layer <NUM> can comprise lining layer <NUM> (<FIG>). Needle punch reinforcement layer <NUM> can be attached to rough shoe upper <NUM> with an adhesive, such as a hot melt adhesive. For example, HM-102P can be applied at a temperature of approximately <NUM>° to <NUM>° C. Additional finishing processes, such as pressing refined shoe upper <NUM> at a temperature of approximately <NUM>° to <NUM>° C at a pressure of <NUM> to <NUM>/cm<NUM> for approximately <NUM> to <NUM> minutes, can be performed on refined shoe upper <NUM>. Subsequently, any edge folding, binding or stitching and turning operations that are desired can be performed, such as along throat and collar portions of refined shoe upper <NUM>. <FIG> is a schematic cross-sectional view of refined shoe upper <NUM> of <FIG> showing the build-up of the various material components of <FIG>. Refined shoe upper <NUM> can comprise needle reinforcement layer <NUM>, lateral backing layer 204B lateral quarter 202B, vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> and vamp <NUM>. <FIG> shows adhesive layer <NUM> disposed between reinforcement layer <NUM> and vamp reinforcement layer <NUM> and lateral backing layer 204B. Adhesive area 270B is also shown between lateral backing layer 204B and later quarter 202B. Adhesive layer <NUM> is shown between vamp <NUM> and vamp reinforcement layer <NUM>.

Claim 1:
A needle assembly (<NUM>) for a stitching machine, the needle assembly (<NUM>) comprising:
a stitching jig (<NUM>) comprising:
a needle holder (<NUM>) having a plurality of needle sockets configured to hold a plurality of needles (<NUM>);
a needle clamp hoop (<NUM>) connected to the needle holder (<NUM>) to retain needles (<NUM>) in the plurality of needle sockets; and
a fixing jig (<NUM>) connected to the needle clamp hoop (<NUM>) and configured to couple with a reciprocating bar (<NUM>) of the stitching machine;
wherein the fixing jig (<NUM>) includes a bar socket (<NUM>) configured to receive the reciprocating bar (<NUM>), the bar socket (<NUM>) disposed parallel to each of the plurality of needle sockets;
a presser foot (<NUM>), the presser foot (<NUM>) comprising:
a lifter (<NUM>) configured to couple with a presser bar (<NUM>) of the stitching machine; and
a presser foot plate (<NUM>) having a plurality of holes (<NUM>), the plurality of holes (<NUM>) being configured as through-bores (<NUM>) configured to align with the plurality of sockets;
wherein the fixing jig (<NUM>) includes a base (<NUM>) and a neck (<NUM>), the base (<NUM>) having a surface configured to cover a matrix of holes (<NUM>) in the presser foot (<NUM>) and bores in the needle holder (<NUM>), and
a hook cover plate (<NUM>) including a plurality of holes (<NUM>) configured to align with the plurality of needle sockets, characterized in that the hook cover plate (<NUM>) includes a greater number of holes (<NUM>) than the presser foot plate (<NUM>).