Patent Description:
The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibres.

It is well known that hair may be sensitized or embrittled to varying degrees as a result of the action of atmospheric agents such as light, water and moisture, and also repeated mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, washing, bleaching, permanent waving, relaxing and/or dyeing. These attacking factors impair the hair fibre and reduce its mechanical properties such as the tensile strength, the breaking load and the elasticity, or its resistance to swelling in an aqueous medium. The hair is dull, coarse and brittle. The hair is difficult to disentangle and to style.

Substances for protecting the hair against such degradation have been sought for many years in the cosmetics industry; products that improve the cosmetic properties, notably the disentangling, soft feel and volume of the head of hair, and that preserve or reinforce the intrinsic mechanical properties of keratin fibres, such as the tensile strength, the breaking load and the elasticity, or their resistance to swelling in an aqueous medium, are sought in particular.

Thus, care/conditioning compositions have been proposed, notably for sensitized hair, which comprise one or more silicones, to obtain acceptable cosmetic performance qualities.

However, these compositions have several drawbacks: presence of silicone, the environmental profile (biodegradability, water footprint) of which is not always optimal, generally opaque (sparingly aesthetic) appearance of the composition associated with the presence of silicone, and rapid regreasing of the hair accompanied by lankness.

In addition, repeated applications of these compositions often have the effect of giving the hair an unpleasant feel, loss of volume and liveliness of the head of hair, and occasionally lack of sheen.

These observations gave rise to the interest in developing a care/conditioning composition which can, where appropriate, be formulated without silicone (silicone-free), while at the same time having improved working qualities and good cosmetic properties, and which is capable of repairing/conditioning keratin fibres without making them lank, so as to give them good conditioning properties. This composition must in particular make it possible to treat sensitized, embrittled or damaged keratin fibres, and more particularly fine hair.

These objectives are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is notably a composition comprising:.

the sum of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) and of the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) being greater than or equal to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A silicone free commercial moisturizing conditioner comprising (i) Simmondsia Chinensis seed oil, prunus amygdalus dulcis oil and glycine soja oil, (ii) squalene, (iii) polygycleryl-<NUM> diisostearate, (iv) xanthan gum and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, (v) isopropanol and (vi) water, is known from the prior art (Database GNPD Mintel, Record ID <NUM>). But the content of the plant oils (i) and of the squalene (ii) is not described.

It has been found that hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly clean and has good cosmetic properties. Hair thus treated is particularly light, soft- and smooth-feeling, shiny, easy to disentangle, more manageable, and has good volume and also repaired ends.

Furthermore, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention gives the hair (mechanical) strength.

Moreover, the Applicant has also found that the use of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to substantially reduce its environmental impact relative to a conventional washing and conditioning composition.

A subject of the invention is also a treatment process, preferably for caring for/conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for treating keratin fibres, and more particularly for caring for/conditioning keratin fibres.

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.

The term "silicone-free" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to <NUM>% by weight, preferably less than <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (<NUM>% by weight).

The term "silicone" means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and essentially constituted of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more plant oils.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (<NUM>) and at atmospheric pressure (<NUM> × <NUM><NUM> Pa).

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (<NUM>) and at atmospheric pressure (<NUM>×<NUM><NUM> Pa) (solubility of less than <NUM>% by weight, preferably less than <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially less than <NUM>% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least <NUM> carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the plant oil(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C<NUM> to C<NUM>, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, beauty-leaf oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, marrow oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passion flower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, Brazil nut oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol <NUM>®, <NUM>® and <NUM>® by the company Dynamit Nobel, and the refined plant-based perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by the company Cognis; the plant-based squalene sold, for example, under the name Squalive by the company Biosynthis.

The plant oils that may be used according to the invention are neither silicone-based nor oxyalkylenated (i.e. in particular neither oxypropylenated nor oxyethylenated).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the plant oil(s) are chosen from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camellina oil, safflower oil, beauty-leaf oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, marrow oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening-primrose oil, palm oil, passion flower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, marula oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, Brazil nut oil, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from soybean oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises jojoba oil.

Preferably, the total content of plant oil(s) present in the composition according to the invention is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon-based oils other than the plant oils (i).

For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms. In particular, a hydrocarbon-based oil according to the invention may optionally include one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

For the purposes of the invention, a hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.

Generally, the hydrocarbon-based oil (ii) according to the invention has a viscosity of from <NUM> to <NUM><NUM> mPa. s, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM><NUM> mPa. s and more preferably from <NUM> to <NUM><NUM> mPa. s, measured at a temperature of <NUM> using a Rheomat® RM <NUM> viscometer at a shear rate of <NUM>-<NUM>.

The hydrocarbon-based oils (ii) according to the invention are not of plant origin.

Furthermore, the hydrocarbon-based oils (ii) according to the invention are different from the plant oils (i) described above, and from the glycerolated nonionic surfactants (iii), from the C<NUM> to C<NUM> polyols, from the non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty alcohols and from the C<NUM> to C<NUM> monoalcohols described below.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) have a surface tension of less than or equal to <NUM> mN/m, more preferentially less than or equal to <NUM> mN/m.

The surface tension is measured at room temperature (<NUM>) and at atmospheric pressure (<NUM>×<NUM><NUM> Pa).

In a manner known per se, the surface tension may be measured using a Wilhelmy plate tensiometer (standard NF EN <NUM>).

For information purposes, the surface tension values of certain hydrocarbon-based oils are given below, measured at room temperature (<NUM>) and at atmospheric pressure (<NUM>×<NUM><NUM> Pa):
<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-pentamethylpentane (<NUM> mN/m), <NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM>-heptamethylnonane (<NUM> mN/m), dodecane (<NUM> mN/m), hemisqualane (<NUM> mN/m), isodecyl neopentanoate (<NUM> mN/m), cocoyl caprylate (<NUM> mN/m), dioctyl ether (<NUM> mN/m), isopropyl myristate (<NUM> mN/m), tetradecane (<NUM> mN/m).

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) have an evaporation rate of greater than <NUM>% after <NUM> minutes.

The evaporation rate of a hydrocarbon-based oil in accordance with the invention may notably be evaluated by means of the protocol described in <CIT>, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below. <NUM> of hydrocarbon-based oil are placed in a crystallizing dish (diameter: <NUM>) placed on a balance that is in a chamber of about <NUM><NUM> with regulated temperature (<NUM>) and hygrometry (<NUM>% relative humidity).

The hydrocarbon-based oil is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference <NUM> N, rotating at <NUM> rpm) placed vertically above the crystallizing dish containing the hydrocarbon-based oil, the blades being directed toward the crystallizing dish, <NUM> away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.

The mass of hydrocarbon-based oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals.

The evaporation profile of the hydrocarbon-based oil is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg/cm<NUM>) as a function of time (in minutes).

The evaporation rate is then calculated, which corresponds to the tangent to the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of hydrocarbon-based oil evaporated per unit area (cm<NUM>) and per unit time (minutes).

The hydrocarbon-based oils are advantageously chosen from:.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more C<NUM> to C<NUM> hydrocarbon-based oils; more preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from branched C<NUM> to C<NUM> alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, linear C<NUM> to C<NUM> alkanes such as n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) present in the composition according to the invention is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight and better still between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferentially, the total content of C<NUM> to C<NUM> hydrocarbon-based oil(s) present in the composition according to the invention is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight or even between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The sum of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) and of the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the sum of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) and of the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, better still between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

More preferentially, the sum of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) and of the total content of C<NUM> to C<NUM> hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) is greater than or equal to <NUM>% by weight; even more preferentially, said sum is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, better still between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, or even between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more glycerolated nonionic surfactants.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "glycerolated nonionic surfactant" means a nonionic surfactant comprising at least one mole of glycerol, preferably comprising a number of moles of glycerol ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM> and even more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM>.

Examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants that are preferably used, alone or as a mixture, include:.

Preferably, the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) according to the invention do not comprise any oxyalkylenes units, such as oxyethylenes or oxypropylenes.

Monoesters or diesters of linear or branched, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM>, more preferentially C<NUM> to C<NUM>, better still C<NUM> to C<NUM> or even C<NUM> to C<NUM> acids, comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> mol of glycerol, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM> or even from <NUM> to <NUM> mol of glycerol, will be preferred most particularly, alone or as a mixture; and better still, alone or as a mixture:.

Preferably, the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) (iii) represent from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when one or more (poly)glycerol (poly)esters of C<NUM> to C<NUM> acids are present in the composition according to the invention, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated monoesters or polyesters of linear or branched C<NUM> to C<NUM> acids, comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> mol of glycerol, represent from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) as described previously, on the one hand, to the total content of glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) (iii) as described previously, on the other hand, is greater than or equal to <NUM>, more preferentially greater than or equal to <NUM> and even more preferentially between <NUM> and <NUM>.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) as described previously, on the one hand, to the total content of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated monoesters or polyesters of linear or branched C<NUM> to C<NUM> acids, comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> mol of glycerol as described previously, on the other hand, is greater than or equal to <NUM>, more preferentially greater than or equal to <NUM> and even more preferentially between <NUM> and <NUM>.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional nonionic surfactants other than the glycerolated nonionic surfactants (iii) as described above.

Examples of additional nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following nonionic surfactants:.

The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from <NUM> to <NUM>, more particularly from <NUM> to <NUM> and better still from <NUM> to <NUM>.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of additional nonionic surfactants (other than the glycerolated nonionic surfactants (iii)) such as those described above.

Preferably, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polysaccharides.

According to the invention, the polysaccharides are also referred to as polymers bearing sugar units.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least <NUM> carbon atoms.

The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units of the thickening polymers are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from non-associative polysaccharides, associative polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

Non-associative polysaccharides that may notably be mentioned include native gums such as:.

These polysaccharides may be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may notably be made of the temperature.

Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C<NUM>-C<NUM> (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the C<NUM>-C<NUM> (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from <NUM> to <NUM> and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Use may also be made of cationic galactomannan gums such as those described more particularly in patents <CIT> and <CIT>, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a <NUM>,<NUM>-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C <NUM>, Jaguar C <NUM> and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-<NUM>-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel <NUM> (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

The non-associative polysaccharides of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not including a C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty chain in their structure.

According to the invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" refers to any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via β-<NUM>,<NUM> bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

Among the cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic esters of cellulose (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/inorganic esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C<NUM>-C<NUM> fatty chain, i.e. which are "non-associative", mention may be made of (C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard <NUM> Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol <NUM> HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkyl-(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E <NUM> FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose <NUM> from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and notably described in patent <CIT>, such as (poly)hydroxy(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L <NUM> and Celquat® H <NUM> by the company National Starch.

Use may also be made of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups such as the compounds notably described in <CIT>; mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR <NUM> LT, JR <NUM> and JR <NUM>) or LR (LR <NUM> and LR <NUM>) by the company Amerchol.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the non-associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from microbial gums; more preferentially from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.

According to this embodiment, the total content of non-associative polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is preferably between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polysaccharides according to the invention that may also be mentioned include associative polysaccharides.

It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

The term "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least <NUM> carbon atoms, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, in particular from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms and more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms.

Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

The associative polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from nonionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from nonionic associative celluloses and nonionic associative galactomannan gums.

Preferentially, the nonionic associative polysaccharides are chosen from:.

The associative polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from cationic associative polysaccharides, notably cationic associative celluloses and cationic associative galactomannan gums.

The cationic associative celluloses may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least <NUM> carbon atoms, notably from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, better still from <NUM> to <NUM>, or even from <NUM> to <NUM>, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least <NUM> carbon atoms, notably from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, better still from <NUM> to <NUM>, or even from <NUM> to <NUM>, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):
<CHM>
in which:.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b or R'c represents a linear or branched C<NUM> to C<NUM>, better still C<NUM> to C<NUM> or even C<NUM> to C<NUM> alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C<NUM>). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkyl, notably methyl.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b or R'c represents a linear or branched C<NUM> to C<NUM>, better still C<NUM> to C<NUM> or even C<NUM> to C<NUM> alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C<NUM>). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C<NUM> to C<NUM> alkyl, notably methyl.

Better still, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH<NUM>)<NUM>, Q'- and -N+(C<NUM>H<NUM>)(CH<NUM>)<NUM>, Q'-, preferably a group -N+(CH<NUM>)<NUM>, Q'-.

Even better still, R' may be a group -N+(C<NUM>H<NUM>)(CH<NUM>)<NUM>, Q'-.

The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:.

Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH<NUM>)<NUM>N+-, Cl- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH<NUM>)<NUM>(C<NUM>H<NUM>)N+-, Cl-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-<NUM>; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-<NUM>, SL-<NUM>, SL-<NUM> and SL-<NUM>, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical.

More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between <NUM> and <NUM> cPs inclusive, preferentially between <NUM> and <NUM> cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-<NUM> has a viscosity of <NUM> cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-<NUM> has a viscosity of <NUM> cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-<NUM> has a viscosity of <NUM> cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-<NUM> has a viscosity of <NUM> cPs. Use may also be made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between <NUM> and <NUM> cPs.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the associative polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic associative celluloses; more preferentially from quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least <NUM> carbon atoms, notably from <NUM> to <NUM>, better still from <NUM> to <NUM>, or even from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

Most particularly preferably, in this embodiment, the associative polysaccharide is Polyquaternium-<NUM>.

According to this embodiment, the total content of associative polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is preferably between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) (iv) are chosen from microbial gums, cationic associative celluloses, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from microbial gums, quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least <NUM> carbon atoms, notably from <NUM> to <NUM>, better still from <NUM> to <NUM>, or even from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, Polyquaternium-<NUM>, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of polysaccharide(s) (iv) present in the composition according to the invention is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty alcohols.

The non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated fatty alcohols comprise from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, and also saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention may be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, said saturated fatty alcohols are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, <NUM>-hexyldecanol, and also palmityl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl and lauryl alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

The unsaturated fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably <NUM> or <NUM> of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the unsaturated fatty alcohols are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty alcohols, more preferentially chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when one or more non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty alcohols are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty alcohol(s) is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, and even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more structuring agents, i.e. one or more agents capable of thickening or even gelling the final composition, in particular by thickening the oils.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises one or more structuring agents chosen from dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, sorbitol/sebacic acid/behenate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when one or more structuring agents are present in the composition according to the invention, the content of structuring agent(s) is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more C<NUM> to C<NUM> polyols.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "C<NUM> to C<NUM> polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl (-OH) groups borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and in liquid form at room temperature (<NUM>) and at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the polyol(s) according to the invention are acyclic and non-aromatic.

The polyols according to the invention comprise in their structure a number of carbon atoms preferably less than <NUM>, more preferentially ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>, even more preferentially ranging from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms.

The C<NUM> to C<NUM> polyols according to the invention are different from the non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty alcohols described previously.

More particularly, the C<NUM> to C<NUM> polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention comprise from <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups, more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups and even more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms, ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from propylene glycol, <NUM>,<NUM>-propanediol, <NUM>,<NUM>-butylene glycol, <NUM>,<NUM>-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when one or more polyols are present in the composition according to the invention, the content of C<NUM> to C<NUM> polyol(s) is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more C<NUM> to C<NUM> monoalcohols.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "C<NUM> to C<NUM> monoalcohol" means an aliphatic compound, preferably an alkane, comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms and only one hydroxyl radical -OH.

The C<NUM> to C<NUM> monoalcohols according to the invention are different from the C<NUM> to C<NUM> polyols and from the non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C<NUM> to C<NUM> fatty alcohols described previously.

Preferably, the C<NUM> to C<NUM> monoalcohol(s) are chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.

Preferably, the total content of C<NUM> to C<NUM> monoalcohol(s) is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the invention comprises water.

Preferably, the water content is between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, even more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pH of the composition is between <NUM> and <NUM>, more preferentially between <NUM> and <NUM> and even more preferentially between <NUM> and <NUM>.

The pH of these compositions may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents that are usually used. Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, and mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

The composition according to the invention may also contain additives used in cosmetics, such as preserving agents, fragrances, colorants and pigments.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and amounts thereof so that they do not damage the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a milk, a lotion or a gel. More preferentially, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a milk.

Another subject of the invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined previously, for the cosmetic treatment of, more preferentially for caring for and/or conditioning, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The composition may be used on wet or dry hair, in rinse-out or leave-in mode.

Preferably, the keratin fibres are not rinsed after the application of the composition according to the invention.

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for treating, preferably for caring for and/or conditioning, keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition as described previously.

The composition may be applied to wet or dry hair, in rinse-out or leave-in mode.

Preferably, the keratin fibres are not rinsed after the step(s) of applying a composition according to the invention to said fibres.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

The cosmetic compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the tables below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

Compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention were each applied to locks of sensitized hair of Caucasian type (SA20), at a rate of <NUM> of composition per gram of hair.

A sensory evaluation of the disentangling of the hair, of the cleanliness of the hair, of the smooth feel and smooth look, and of the sheen is then performed by three experts on each of the non-rinsed locks.

At T<NUM>, it is observed that the locks of hair treated with one of the compositions (A) or (B) according to the invention have a good level of care/conditioning, notably in terms of the disentangling, sheen, cleanliness, smooth feel and smooth look of the hair.

The cosmetic compositions (C) and (D) are prepared from the ingredients shown in the tables below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

Compositions (C) and (D) were each applied to locks of sensitized hair of Caucasian type (SA20), at a rate of <NUM> of composition per lock of hair of <NUM>.

The compositions were distributed homogeneously from the roots to the ends of the hair.

The locks of hair were then dried for <NUM> minutes in the open air.

A sensory evaluation of the smooth feel and of the lightness is then performed on dry hair by six experts, in a blind test, on each of the non-rinsed locks.

The experts evaluated using a rating scale ranging from <NUM> (very poor) to <NUM> (very good). The rating scale varies in steps of <NUM>.

To evaluate the smooth feel, the expert grasps the lock between the thumb and forefinger, and slides his fingers along the lock from the roots to the ends. He evaluates whether the hair is soft, if it does not have any roughness, if it does not hold the fingers, if the touch is homogeneous.

To evaluate the lightness, the expert lifts the hair in large strands with the hands and looks at the way the hair falls: the light hair is individualized, flowing and does not fall out in clumps.

The results are summarized in the tables below:.

Claim 1:
Composition comprising:
(i) one or more plant oils,
(ii) one or more hydrocarbon-based oils other than the plant oils (i),
(iii) one or more glycerolated nonionic surfactants,
(iv) one or more polysaccharides,
(v) one or more C<NUM> to C<NUM> monoalcohols and
(vi) water; and
the sum of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) and of the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) being greater than or equal to <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.