Patent Description:
Changing ones hair shape has always been in vogue. Already in the ancient Egyptian era, long, straight hair was popular. Women, which were not blessed with this kind of natural hair already used in fire heated iron plates to get their hair in the desired shape. This procedure often led to severe burns to the face and hands. It was not before the early 19th century that straightening irons became more professional with the invention of a hair tong made by Marcel Grateau. Nowadays, hot tools like straightening irons as well as blow dryers are more popular than ever before. They got into the focus of consumers in both salon and mass market. These tools lead to satisfying results as they work at high temperatures (up to <NUM> for a straightening iron). When dry hair is getting in contact with the hot iron and a proper pressure is applied at the same time, the hair shape can be fixed for a certain amount of time until hair is humidified again. Unfortunately, application of such hot temperature leads to extreme hair damage and thus results in a bad hair feel after their usage. Consequently, there is a huge need of products, which allow straightening of hair more effectively to limit the contact time between iron and hair while reducing damage and leaving a pleasant hair feel after application at the same time. Additionally, there is a need for completely abandoning straight irons from the daily styling routine in order to achieve efficiently a smooth and even result with reduced volume by only blow-drying the hair. Glyoxylic acid is a known ingredient for hair cosmetics, which allows long-lasting curl relaxation and volume reduction especially in combination with straightening irons at high temperatures. Combined with only blow-drying of the hair, the volume reduction and especially curl relaxation is way less effective with lower durability and often higher amounts of Glyoxylic Acid are needed. For both applications, there is a general need to reduce the usage amount of Glyoxylic Acid to avoid unwanted side effects. This includes a sensitizing potential as well as a stiff hair feel and an unpleasant smell that comes with the application of higher amounts of Glyoxylic Acid. To achieve the maximum results with the use of as little Glyoxylic Acid as possible it is of advantage not to rinse out the product before blow-drying and optimal straightening the hair. Unfortunately, a composition containing Glyoxylic Acid leaves sticky residues on the hair during drying and makes handling hair often very difficult; especially combing hair becomes relatively difficult.

In this respect, <CIT> describes a process for semi-permanent hair straightening, which involves applying a composition comprising an α-keto acid onto the hair, leaving the composition in contact with the hair for <NUM> to <NUM> minutes, drying the hair and straightening the hair with a straightening iron at a temperature of <NUM> +-<NUM>.

Furthermore, <CIT> describes a treatment for semi-permanent straightening of curly, frizzy or wavy hair by applying a solution of glyoxylic acid in combination with mechanical straightening, using a straightening iron at a temperature of <NUM> +- <NUM>. After the treatment, the hair is said to retain its shape for at least six consecutive washings.

<CIT> is a post-published document according to Article <NUM>(<NUM>) EPC, which relates to a hair straightening procedure involving the application of a glyoxylic acid-containing composition onto the hair, followed by the application of a composition comprising a fatty alcohol or a cationic conditioning agent and the use heat, e.g., by means of a straightening iron. The cationic conditioning agent may be a cationic polymer. The glyoxylic acid-containing compositions may also include a nonionic cellulose-based polymer such as methylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose.

<CIT> is a post-published document according to Article <NUM>(<NUM>) EPC and concerns a hair straightening composition comprising a certain dicarbonyl compound such as glyoxylic acid in combination with at least one cationic and/or at least one amphoteric polymer. The described compositions also may comprise hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

The present invention provides a composition that enables efficient straightening while providing an easy handling when blow-drying and / or straight ironing due to a less sticky hair feel. With the use of the composition of the present invention prior to hair straightening as well as blow drying process, semi-permanent hair straightening result and a volume down effect are achieved while still keeping good handling of hair during and as well as after blow drying and/or straightening.

The inventor of the present invention has unexpectedly observed that an aqueous composition comprising an organic carboxylic acid and nonionic surfactant makes possible semi-permanent straightening and volume reduction of hair possible while achieving improved combing of the hair.

The first object of the present invention is an aqueous composition for semi-permanent straightening keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising a concentration in the range of <NUM> to <NUM> % by weight of glyoxylic acid ; and a concentration in the range of <NUM> to <NUM> % by weight of a polyethylene glycol alkyl ether according to the general structure.

wherein R<NUM> is a saturated alkyl chain with <NUM> to <NUM> C atoms and n is a value in the range of <NUM> to <NUM>, wherein it has a pH <NUM> or below, wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total of the composition, wherein the composition is free of sulfur-based reducing agents.

The second object is a process for semi-permanent straightening keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising the following steps performed in this order:.

The third object is kit for keratin fibers especially human hair comprising the composition of the present invention. examples are glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and <NUM>-ketobutyric acid.

The glyoxylic acid may be comprised in the composition in its free acid form. The carbonyl group adjacent to the acid group of the acid may also be present in the hydrate form. Apart from the free acid form and the hydrate thereof, salts of the acid or the hydrate may also be used.

Glyoxylic acid (H-CO-COOH) in aqueous solution is almost quantitatively present as the hydrate (H-C(OH)<NUM>-COOH) Besides, the hydrate may also condense to dimers. A salt of the carboxylic acid may also be used. As examples, alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt or the calcium salt and tertiary and quaternary ammonium salts may be mentioned.

Conventional permanent hair shaping/straightening techniques are based on the reorganization of the disulfide bridges and involve a cleavage of the disulfide bonds either by using a sulfur-based reducing agent or an alkali agent, followed by the shaping of the hair and the formation of new bonds (i.e., disulfide bonds formed by the action of an oxidizing agent or thioether bonds, respectively). In contrast to these permanent straightening methods, the present invention does not utilize cleavage of the disulfide bonds and fixing the bonds in the new shape. Therefore, the semi-permanent straightening composition is free of sulfur based reducing agents. pH of the aqueous composition is <NUM> or less, preferably in the range of <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> and more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, as measured directly and at ambient temperature (<NUM>). The pH of the composition may be adjusted using known alkaline solutions, preferably with sodium hydroxide solution.

The concentration of polyethylene glycol alkyl ether of the above general structure is in the range of <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, preferably <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition.

Suitable non-limiting and preferred polyethylene glycol alkyl ether is C12-<NUM> pareth-<NUM>. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous composition comprises foaming surfactant at a total concentration <NUM>% by weight or less, calculated to the total of the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention the aqueous composition of the present invention comprises one or more thickening polymers preferably selected from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having a viscosity of at least <NUM> mPa·s measured at a polymer concentration of <NUM>% by weight, in water and at <NUM> with a Brookfield viscometer.

Suitable non-limiting non-ionic polymers are include neutral polysaccharides and derivatives such as ethers or esters thereof. In this respect, neutral gums such as, sclerotium gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, cellulose ethers such as hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), methyl hydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC), ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC), methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose (MEHEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof such as HM-EHEC, starch and dextrins may be mentioned.

Non-limiting examples for the anionic polymer include anionic polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, such as alginate, pectin, hyaluronate, anionic gums such as xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, gum arabic, gum karaya or gum tragacanth, or anionic cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC). Further examples include synthetic anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acid or copolymers containing acrylic acid in combination with neutral vinylic and/or acrylic monomers, and salts thereof such as sodium polyacrylate.

Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers include cationized cellulose, cationic starch, cationic guar gum, a vinylic or (meth)acrylic polymer or copolymer having quaternary ammonium side chains, (meth)acrylate/aminoacrylate copolymer, amine substituted polyacrylate crosspolymers, a polymer or copolymer of a diallyl quaternary ammonium salt, and quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone. As an example of the vinylic or (meth)acrylic polymer or copolymer having quaternary ammonium side chains, poly(<NUM>- methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (Polyquaternium- <NUM>) may be mentioned. Specific examples of the quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone include quaternary ammonium salts synthesized from a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, and diethyl sulfate (polyquaternium-<NUM>). As an example of the (meth)acrylate/aminoacrylate copolymer, Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/Cl0-<NUM> Alkyl PEG-<NUM> Itaconate Copolymer may be mentioned. As an example of the amine substituted polyacrylate crosspolymers, Polyacrylates-<NUM> Crosspolymer may be mentioned. Specific examples of the cationized cellulose include a polymer of a quaternary ammonium salt obtained by adding glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride to hydroxyethylcellulose (polyquaternium <NUM>), and a hydroxyethylcellulose/ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer (polyquaternium- <NUM>), and a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (polyqauternium-<NUM>).

As examples for the amphoteric polymer, carboxyl-modified or sulfonate-modified cationic polysaccharides such as carboxymethylchitosan may be mentioned. Further examples include copolymers of cationic vinylic or (meth)acrylic monomers with (meth)acrylic acid, such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylic acid copolymer (polyquaternium-<NUM>).

Anionic poklymers are preferred and in particular the thickening polymer is selected from xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum and dehydro xanthan gum and their mixtures.

The concentration of the one or more thickening polymers is in the range of <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, preferably <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, more preferable <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, and more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> wt. % calculated to the total of the composition.

The aqueous composition comprises one or more quaternary ammonium surfactant of the general formula
<CHM>
wherein R<NUM> and R<NUM> are independent from each other a saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight alkyl chain with <NUM>-<NUM> C atoms or.

The total concentration of one or more ammonium surfactant of the above general formula is in the range of <NUM> to <NUM>%, preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition.

The composition preferably comprises one or more oils, preferably selected from silicone oils, natural oils, mineral oil and synthetic oils.

The total concentration of one or more oils is in the range of <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, and even more preferably <NUM>% to <NUM> wt. %, calculated to the total of the composition.

The suitable silicone oils are dimethylpolysiloxane, and modified silicone (for example, amino-modified silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, alcohol-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone, epoxy-modified silicone, polyoxazoline silicone (as described in <CIT>), or alkyl-modified silicone), but dimethylpolysiloxane, polyether-modified silicone and aminomodified silicone are preferred.

The dimethylpolysiloxane may be any cyclic or non-cyclic dimethylsiloxane polymer, and examples thereof include SH200 series, BY22-<NUM>, BY22-<NUM>, BYII-<NUM>, B22-<NUM>, BY22-<NUM>, BY22-050A, BY22-<NUM>, BY22-<NUM>, BY22-<NUM>, FZ-<NUM> (all by Dow Corning Toray Co. ), KF-<NUM>, KM-<NUM> series, MK-<NUM>, and MK-<NUM> (all by ShinEtsu Chemical Co.

The polyether-modified silicone may be any silicone having a polyoxyalkylene group, and the group constituting the polyoxyalkylene group may be an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group. More specific examples include KF-<NUM>, KF-945A, KF-<NUM>, KF-<NUM>, KF-<NUM>, KF-<NUM>, KF-<NUM>, KF- <NUM>, KF-<NUM>, KF-353A, KF-354A, KF-355A (all by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. ), FZ-<NUM>, SS-<NUM>, FZ-<NUM>, FZ-<NUM>, SH3771M, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M, SH3749, SS-280X series, BY22-<NUM>, BYII-<NUM>, and BY25-<NUM> (all by Dow Corning Toray Co.

The amino-modified silicone may be any silicone having an amino group or an ammonium group, and examples thereof include an amino-modified silicone oil having all or a part of the terminal hydroxyl groups capped with a methyl group or the like, and an amodimethicone which does not have the terminals capped. A preferred example of the amino-modified silicone may be a compound represented by the following formula:
<CHM>
wherein R' represents a hydroxyl group, a hydrogen atom or Rx; Rx represents a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms; D represents Rx, R"- (NHCH2CH2 )mNH2 , ORx, or a hydroxyl group; R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon group having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms; m represents a number from Oto <NUM>; p and q represent numbers, the sum of which is, as a number average, equal to or greater than <NUM> and less than <NUM>,<NUM>, preferably equal to or greater than <NUM> and less than <NUM>, more preferably equal to or greater than <NUM> and less than <NUM>, and even more preferably equal to or greater than <NUM> and less than <NUM>.

Specific examples of suitable commercially available products of the amino-modified silicone include amino-modified silicone oils such as SF8452C, SS-<NUM> (all by Dow Corning Toray Co. ), KF-<NUM>, KF-<NUM>, and KF-<NUM> (all by ShinEtsu Chemical Co. ); and amodimethicone emulsions such as SM8704C, SM8904, BY22-<NUM>, FZ-<NUM>, and FZ-<NUM> (all by Dow corning Toray Co.

Further oil suitable oil components are hydrocarbon oils having at least <NUM> carbon atoms, a polyolefin, a fatty acid ester, a fatty acid amide, a polyalkylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include a cyclic hydrocarbon, a linear aliphatic hydrocarbon (saturated or unsaturated), and a branched aliphatic hydrocarbon (saturated or unsaturated), and polymers or mixtures thereof are also included. The linear hydrocarbon oil preferably has <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms. The branched hydrocarbon oil includes hydrocarbon polymers, and preferably has more than <NUM> carbon atoms.

The polyolefin is a liquid polyolefin, more preferably a liquid poly-a-olefin, and even more preferably a hydrogenated liquid poly-a-olefin. The polyolefin used herein is prepared by polymerizing an olefin monomer having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, and preferably <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms.

The fatty acid ester may be, for example, a fatty acid ester having at least <NUM> carbon atoms. Examples of such a fatty acid ester include esters having a hydrocarbon chain derived from a fatty acid and an alcohol (for example, monoesters, polyhydric alcohol esters, or di- and tricarboxylic acid esters). The hydrocarbon group of these fatty acid esters may have another compatible functional group such as an amide group or an alkoxy group as a substituent, or the hydrocarbon group may be covalently bonded to those functional groups.

More specifically, an alkyl and alkenyl ester of a fatty acid having a fatty acid chain having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, a carboxylic acid ester of an aliphatic alcohol having an aliphatic chain derived from an alkyl and/or alkenyl alcohol having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, and a mixture thereof are suitably used. Specific examples of these preferred fatty acid esters include isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palrnitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl rnyristate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, dihexadecyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate and dioleyl adipate.

Further suitable oil components are natural oils such as paraffin oil and natural triglycerides. Suitable natural triglycerides are argan oil, shea butter oil, karite oil, olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, ricinus oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, macadamia oil, night primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, soya oil, lanolin, passiflora oil, black cumin oil, borage oils, grapeseed oil, hempseed oil, kukui nut oil, and rosehip oil.

The composition may be in the form of an emulsion.

The composition may further comprise one or more fatty alcohol, preferably at a total concentration in the range of <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, most preferably <NUM> to <NUM> wt. %, calculated to the total of the composition.

The suitable fatty alcohols are having an alkyl chain which may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched and with <NUM> to <NUM> C atoms. Suitable non-limiting examples are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The semi-permanent straightening process is carried out comprising the following steps performed in this order:.

In step (a) of the process of the present invention, the aqueous composition composition is applied to the hair. The application weight ratio of hair to composition is <NUM>:<NUM> to <NUM>:<NUM>, preferably <NUM>:<NUM> to <NUM>:<NUM>, more preferably about <NUM>:<NUM>. Subsequent to the application, the straightening composition is left on the hair for <NUM> to <NUM> minutes, preferably <NUM> to <NUM> minutes, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> minutes and more preferably <NUM> to <NUM> minutes at a temperature range of <NUM> to <NUM>, preferably at ambient temperature (step (b)). Then, the composition is optionally rinsed off from hair (step (c)). In subsequent step (d), the hair is dried with a blow drier. It is preferable to dry the hair under continuous combing in order to prevent entanglement of the hair. Subsequent to the drying, the hair may be treated with an iron having a surface temperature of <NUM>±<NUM>, preferably <NUM> to <NUM>. A usual straightening iron may be used for this purpose (step (e)). Furthermore, the hair may optionally be rinsed off with water and/or shampooed and dried again (step ( f) ).

The aqueous composition is provided to the user in a kit, which comprises the composition of the present invention and optionally one or more of additional compositions and /or hair appliances such as a hair drier. In the preferred form, the kit comprises the composition of the present invention and a hair drier and optionally a hair straightening iron.

Claim 1:
An aqueous composition for semi-permanent straightening and/or volume reduction of keratin fibers, especially human hair, characterized in that it comprises glyoxylic acid, hydrates thereof, or their salts at a concentration in the range of <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight,
and a polyethylene glycol alkyl ether according to the general structure

        R<NUM> - O - (CH<NUM>CH<NUM>O)n H

wherein R<NUM> is a saturated alkyl chain with <NUM> to <NUM> C atoms and n is a value in the range of <NUM> to <NUM> at a concentration in the range of <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, and
it has a pH <NUM> or below,
wherein all concentrations are calculated to the total of the composition,
wherein the composition is free of sulfur-based reducing agents.