Patent Description:
Among the raw materials of the cosmetic industry, those in powder form represent a very important and varied family of ingredients, being used in many cosmetic products both in emulsion, in gel and in the form of solid products. Among the latter there are the anhydrous, essentially formed by oils and waxes, which once melted are poured into stick molds (like lipsticks) or in jars, and the powders, which can be left free, or can be compacted using presses, or cooked in specific ovens to obtain the common wafers.

Raw materials in powder form are used in many cosmetic products, especially for make-up, and can have various functions, such as for example the functions of texturizers, fillers, absorbents, mattifying agents, "soft-focus" enhancers and others.

Fillers are used in powder formulations with the main purpose of diluting the active components and lowering the cost of the formulation. The most common and used filler powder is talc, which is inexpensive and extremely smooth and soft to the touch; however, the cosmetic market is gradually moving away from this ingredient, due to the risk of possible asbestos contamination that this raw material presents and, therefore, the risk of probable consequences on health ><NPL>; <NPL>).

Other powders have been considered as substitutes for talc: an example is mica, which however has a higher price, is greyish and does not have the soft touch of talc. Other alternatives are kaolin, which however absorbs sebum a lot and risks excessively drying the skin, or vegetable starches or clays, which however very often present problems linked to microbiological contamination.

Coloring powders, more commonly referred to as pigments, have the characteristic of releasing color when applied to a surface and therefore hiding the color of the surface itself: they therefore have the ability to "write". The "writing ability" is an intrinsic characteristic of some powders and is directly proportional to their refractive index: the higher the refractive index, the more difficult it is to see transparently through the powder and vice versa. The most used pigments in cosmetics are ionic compounds, or metal oxides, and among the most common are iron oxides (yellow, red, black), zinc oxide (white) and titanium dioxide (white).

The latter is undoubtedly the most widely used pigment, firstly because white remains the base color on which to prepare all the other colors, and secondly because it has a coverage and a writing effect superior to all the other whites on the market. However, the use of titanium dioxide involves the fact that this compound has been classified as a carcinogen by inhalation as a non-negligible problem, which implies possible risks on the safety of cosmetic products that contain it, especially when it comes to make-up powders. -up, easily inhalable (<NPL>).

Another type of powder commonly used in cosmetic technology are texturizers (also called, in English, "skin-feel enhancers"), i.e. those ingredients that have the purpose of improving the touch of cosmetic products, making them more velvety, creamy, smooth when picked up and/or applied. In general, these properties largely depend on the size and shape of the particles that compose them, on the coefficient of friction between particles and on their elasticity. Most of these powders are composed of synthetic, non-biodegradable polymers, commonly called "microplastics" (nylon, PMMA, PTFE, polyurethanes, etc.), whose main problem is that they are not sustainable and irreversibly pollute the environment (<NPL>). Other solid powder materials used as texturizers, but more expensive, are silica powder, characterized by perfectly spherical particles, and mica itself, which is composed of lamellar particles.

Some powders are specifically chosen for their "soft-focus" effect, i.e. the ability to enter the hollows of the skin and reflect light in different directions in order to hide wrinkles and imperfections, mattifying the complexion and making it more homogeneous. Sometimes this characteristic is also combined with the absorption capacity of oils, which allows both to obtain less greasy formulas and to absorb excess sebum, eliminating the shiny effect of the complexion.

It is evident from the foregoing that it would be extremely useful to have a raw material in powder form that can be used in the cosmetic industry to improve the performance of the ingredients mentioned above, or as a total or partial replacement of those ingredients that have proved to be potentially harmful to the environment and/or hazardous to human health, such as microplastics, talc and titanium dioxide in particular. In particular, it would be extremely advantageous to be able to include in the composition of a cosmetic make-up product a multifunctional ingredient which allows to enhance the color of the pigments and to replace at least partially the titanium dioxide as a white pigment.

<CIT> discloses the use of calcium carbonate materials such as huntite powder as a multifunctional ingredient for the preparation of various compositions, including cosmetic products for make-up.

In the frame of the studies which led to the present invention, a mineral of calcium and magnesium carbonate was taken into consideration, huntite, which had been studied and used in recent decades due to the excellent properties of its natural mixture with hydromagnesite as a flame retardant (<NPL>; <NPL>).

Huntite is a mineral composed of calcium and magnesium carbonates, having the chemical formula Mg<NUM>Ca(CO<NUM>)<NUM>, which crystallizes in trigonal systems and is typically found in deposits in dusty masses characterized by planar crystals wet with water. Once extracted, dried and broken up, its form is that of a very fine and airy white lamellar powder which does not pack or agglomerate. By way of illustration, <FIG> of the accompanying illustrations shows a photomicrograph of huntite crystals (on the right) flanked by hydromagnesite crystals (on the left), while <FIG> shows the three-dimensional structure of the huntite crystal lattice and <FIG> is a photograph of a huntite powder obtained from Greek ore.

It is also known that huntite, due to its lamellar structure and its white color, can be used in paints as a filler powder (extender), thus allowing to reduce the amount of pigment (for example, TiO<NUM>) thanks to its disruptive and light diffusing properties (Sibelco, https://coatings. sibelcotools. com/mineral/huntite/).

Furthermore, mixed carbonate materials of magnesium and calcium of formula Mg<NUM>Ca(CO<NUM>)<NUM> corresponding to huntite can also be synthesized in the laboratory through the use of carbonates as reagents, or through some strains of cyanobacteria.

According to the present invention, it has been found that huntite possesses physico-chemical and morphological properties such as to make it suitable for carrying out various specific functions in a cosmetic composition, according to the formulation in which it is inserted. These properties enable this material to replace, in whole or in part, raw materials in powder form such as talc, microplastics or titanium dioxide, the use of which in a cosmetic product is not recommended for reasons of environmental sustainability, of health risks or commercial opportunity.

In particular, it has been found that huntite powder, inserted in a suitable quantity in make-up formulations such as lipsticks, eye shadows, foundations, concealers and nail polishes, has the ability to enhance the color of the pigments contained in these formulations, increasing its intensity and brilliance. This also makes it possible to reduce the content of colored ingredients, such as pigments and lacquers, obtaining an equivalent or superior final result.

Therefore, the present invention proposes to use huntite powder as a color enhancer for pigments, and in general as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient, exploiting its main characteristics related to the lamellar shape of its powder and the complete absence of agglomerates, which make it very soft and airy to the touch, easily workable and dispersible in liquids. Huntite generally has a very high white point according to ISO2470 (above <NUM>%), a refractive index ranging from <NUM> to <NUM> and a medium oil absorption degree, ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>/<NUM> according to method ISO <NUM>/<NUM>.

It should be noted that in addition to presenting the properties already known and exploited in the paint sector, such as the white color and the disintegrating capacity with respect to other powders due to its lamellar structure, powdered huntite proves to be unexpectedly advantageous as a powder material the production of cosmetic preparations because it also has a soft touch, unlike, for example, mica, as well as an adhesive capacity towards the skin. If used in cosmetic products, it gives them various additional effects in addition to increasing the writing ability of the other pigments, such as improving the texture of the product and the soft-focus effect.

The specific features of the invention, as well as its advantages, will become more evident with reference to the attached figure, wherein:.

The present invention specifically provides the use of natural huntite powder as a color enhancer for pigments, with multiple possible additional functions, in cosmetic products for make-up as defined by claim <NUM> of the appended claims.

As a color release enhancer in make-up formulations, huntite has proved to be particularly advantageous, as the fine and lamellar shape of the particles allows them to act as a disintegrant by breaking up the agglomerates of pigment during processing. In this way, the yield of the color is significantly improved when considering the writing ability, and the color is more opaque, uniform and brilliant. This property allows the formulation of make-up products (lipsticks, foundations, eye shadows, nail polishes, etc.) with a lower percentage of pigment, and facilitates their processing during preparation.

Furthermore, huntite has a very high white point, even if the refractive index is low compared to TiO<NUM>; the fact that it is very fine and lamellar allows a homogeneous distribution on the skin and consequently the opacity obtained is comparable to that of titanium dioxide. If the powder is wetted in water or oil, it loses this characteristic and the opacity is reduced because the particles are distributed in the liquid and no longer adhere to the surface. This feature allows a formulator to design powder products for make-up, such as free, compact and cooked powders, without the use of other white pigments.

It should be noted that the other properties of the powdered huntite illustrated in the summary of the present invention are also much sought after in a cosmetic powder, because they guarantee various further improvements. Specifically, huntite can have the following additional uses and applications in the cosmetic sector:.

Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, huntite for cosmetic use, in addition to the function of color enhancer, has one or more of the following additional functions: texturizing agent, filler, mattifying agent, dispersant, adhesion enhancer, soft-focus effect enhancer. In view of the foregoing, the concerned huntite can be used in many types of cosmetic products: from powders, to casts, to emulsions, to tensiolites, preferably as a total or partial replacement of ingredients such as titanium dioxide, talc, mica or microplastics, whose presence in a cosmetic formulation is unwanted for safety, sustainability and/or cost reasons. In such products, huntite performs the same functions as the ingredients it replaces, while also bringing additional benefits, due to its multiple functionality.

For the cosmetic applications of the invention, the huntite powder has particle sizes between <NUM> and <NUM>, preferably between <NUM> and <NUM>, or in some cases it is entirely submicronic, meaning that <NUM>% of the particles have a size of less than <NUM>.

According to a further aspect thereof, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for make-up, which is characterized in that it contains one or more pigments, and natural huntite powder as color enhancer, as defined by claim <NUM> of the appended claims.

More specifically, the cosmetic product made with the composition is a lipstick or a concealer, and the composition may preferably comprise from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of powdered huntite powder as a color enhancer, having additional functions as texturizer and adhesion enhancer.

In further embodiments, the cosmetic product made with the composition is a nail polish, and the composition of the product may comprise <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of powdered huntite as a color enhancer.

In further embodiments, the product made with the composition is an eyeshadow, and the composition thereof may preferably comprise from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of powdered huntite powder as a color enhancer, with additional functions of texturizer and adhesion enhancer.

In still further embodiments, the product obtained from the composition of the invention is a mattifying compact powder, and the composition preferably comprises from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of powdered huntite as a white pigment, texturizer and soft focus agent.

Thanks to the characteristics of the raw material, huntite powder can be handled as easily as other cosmetic powders. It is easily dispersible in water or oils with common laboratory and industrial instruments, such as turboemulsifiers and mixers. For an optimal result it is possible to carry out some passages in a three-cylinder laminator together with the other powders of the formulation. Due to the nature of the mineral, it is possible to treat huntite even at high temperatures without degradation or other chemical-physical transformations.

The other ingredients used in the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may include, in addition to the multifunctional ingredient of the present invention, all the ingredients commonly used in cosmetic formulations, such as structuring agents, emollients, pigments, texturizers, film formers, preservatives, fillers or carriers, surfactants, rheological modifiers, mattifying agents and pearlescent agents, conditioners, emulsifiers, binders, solvents, UV filters and others, where "others" are intended as optional secondary ingredients that improve aspects of the sensoriality and functionality or of the stability of the formula, for example perfumes, flavoring, gloss enhancers, active ingredients, antioxidants, chelators, stabilizers, pH regulators. These ingredients will be selected according to the current cosmetic technique, based on the desired properties in the final product.

Some specific embodiments of the cosmetic use of huntite according to the present invention, with the corresponding products, and including some experimental results, are reported by way of not limiting examples in the following.

Two solid lipsticks having the composition indicated below were obtained by applying the procedure reported after the table.

These lipsticks can be prepared by heating the phase A and phase B ingredients until the waxes are completely melted and incorporating the phase C ingredients under constant stirring. The product is then poured into a lipstick mold at a temperature of <NUM>.

As can also be seen in <FIG>, the lipstick A. <NUM> according to the invention has a more marked blue shade, a sign that the pigment has developed better; the release of the pastel is similar, but on a color level, A. <NUM> is more opaque and the color more vivid. Even the brightness of the product is not affected by the use of huntite. Furthermore, the application of A. <NUM> is more homogeneous and much smoother on test than the application of A.

It can be concluded that huntite improves color release and development, and can be effectively used as a texturizer to improve the smoothness of pastels.

A further experimentation on the properties of the lipsticks obtained is presented in the final section of the present description.

These lipsticks can be prepared by heating the phase A ingredients and the phase B ingredients until the waxes are completely melted. The ingredients of phase C are added to the molten mass and then the whole is rolled in a three-cylinder laminator to obtain a homogeneous paste. The product is poured into a lipstick mold at a temperature of <NUM>.

As can also be seen from <FIG>, lipstick B. <NUM> according to the invention has a more intense color when applied and is smoother than lipstick B. Huntite therefore improves ease, homogeneity of application and color release. There is also an increase in adhesion, i.e. a greater resistance to smudging.

It can be concluded, as previously, that huntite improves the release and development of color, and that it improves the application of the product and increases its adhesion compared to the same formulation containing sericite.

Two solid concealers having the composition indicated below were obtained by applying the procedure reported after the table.

These products can be prepared by heating the phase A ingredients and the phase B ingredients until the waxes are completely melted. The ingredients of phase C are added to the molten mass and then the whole is rolled in a three-cylinder laminator to obtain a homogeneous paste. The product is poured into an appropriate casing at a temperature of <NUM>.

It has been found that the C. <NUM> version of the concealer according to the invention is more easily workable, because the huntite does not increase the viscosity of the product, which instead happens in the version with mica. As can also be seen in <FIG>, produced with huntite does not create color halos, has a more homogeneous application, a more vivid and full color and has a better wrinkle filling effect than sample C.

Also from a sensory point of view, the C. <NUM> version is softer to apply and easier to apply.

Two compact mattifying powders having the composition indicated below were obtained by applying the procedure reported after the table.

These products are obtained by inserting the ingredients of phases A and B into a mill and mixing until a homogeneous powder is obtained. The ingredients of phases C and D are then introduced, mixing until homogeneity. The product is then compacted with a special press in a bottom.

As can also be seen from <FIG>, the product D. <NUM> according to the invention, containing huntite, is opaque, even if not as much as that formulated with titanium dioxide; it has been seen that huntite can still be used in powder formulations to obtain medium coverage products, without titanium dioxide.

Furthermore, during application the D. <NUM> product flows more and is more homogeneous, making it easier to apply on the face. There is also an excellent wrinkle filling and soft-focus effect.

Three solid lipsticks having the composition indicated below were obtained by applying the procedure reported after the table.

These lipsticks can be prepared by heating the phase A ingredients and the phase B ingredients until the waxes are completely melted. The ingredients of phase C are added to the molten mass and then the whole is rolled in a three-cylinder laminator to obtain a homogeneous paste. The product is then heated until it is completely melted and the ingredients of phase D are added. It is then poured into a lipstick mold at a temperature of <NUM>.

Experimentation on the properties of the lipsticks obtained is presented in the final section of the present description.

These lipsticks can be prepared with a procedure similar to that of Example <NUM>.

Two compact powder eyeshadows having the composition indicated below were obtained by applying the procedure reported after the table.

These eyeshadows can be prepared with a procedure similar to that of Example <NUM>.

Experimentation on the properties of the eyeshadows obtained is presented in the final section of the present description.

Exemplary nail polishes according to the invention have the compositions indicated below.

To instrumentally verify the ability of the mineral to enhance the color of the pigments, a study was carried out on some simple, colored formulations, in which the color being applied was evaluated using a Konica Minolta CR-<NUM> portable colorimeter.

The following make-up formulations were taken into consideration:.

A uniform layer of each product was spread on a white sheet, and the CIELAB coordinates (L* a* b*) were measured in order to evaluate the color intensity.

Through the CIELAB color space it is possible to give a numerical value to the perceived color through the coordinates L*, a* and b*. The coordinates a and b represent the two ranges of colors which go respectively from green to red and from blue to yellow (-a= green; +a=red; -b=blue; +b=yellow), L represents the brilliance, then the white value (-L=black; +L=white).

Lipsticks E and F were prepared according to the following scheme: a reference lipstick, without huntite; a lipstick like the previous one, but with huntite which enhances the color rendering; a lipstick without huntite but with an increase in pigment in order to obtain a color rendering similar to the version with huntite.

Since the prevailing color in each formulation is red, the value a* was compared, which according to the CIELAB method is indicative of the intensity of red. Therefore, the more intense the color of the lipstick, the higher the a* value will be.

The results are set out in the following Table <NUM>, and represented in the form of a histogram in <FIG> of the accompanying drawings.

As can be seen from the diagrams, the lipsticks containing huntite have a higher a* value, which measures the intensity of the red, than in the reference versions without huntite. Lipsticks A. <NUM> and B. <NUM>, which contain a greater quantity of pigment, demonstrate that the use of huntite allows to considerably reduce the quantity of pigment, maintaining the same color rendering.

The lipsticks A and G of Examples <NUM> and <NUM> were prepared in versions with and without huntite.

The results are set out in the following Table <NUM>, and represented in histogram form in <FIG> of the accompanying drawings.

As can be seen from the diagrams, the lipsticks containing huntite have a higher a* value, which measures the intensity of red, than in the reference versions without huntite.

The eyeshadows H, I and L of Examples <NUM>, <NUM> and <NUM> were prepared in versions with and without huntite.

Since there is not a single prevailing color in these formulas, the L* value was compared, which according to the CIELAB method is indicative of the intensity of white. Therefore, the more intense the color of the eyeshadow, therefore not dirty by white, the lower the L* value will be.

Claim 1:
Use of a natural huntite powder as a color enhancer for pigments, with possible additional functions, in cosmetic products for make-up, wherein said cosmetic products contain one or more pigments, and from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of powdered huntite, and
wherein the color of said cosmetic products, evaluated using a Konica Minolta CR-<NUM> portable color meter and using the CIELAB coordinates (L* a* b*), is more intense than the color of cosmetic products having the same composition without huntite.