Patent Description:
A subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in which said composition is applied to said keratin materials.

Another subject of the invention is the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

In the cosmetics field, an increasing number of consumers are looking for cosmetic products of natural origin, while the same time remaining very demanding with regard to the sensory qualities and to the performance quality thereof.

It is therefore necessary to formulate with a maximum of natural ingredients and/or ingredients of natural origin which make it possible to have cosmetic compositions with use qualities that are as close as possible to those of conventional cosmetics.

However, formulae which have a high number of natural ingredients and/or ingredients of natural origin have presentation forms that can cause an impairment to the application to keratin materials. This is because their appearance can be perceived as "pasty" and leading to a soapy effect, also known as whitening effect, on application.

Furthermore, formulae which have a high number of natural ingredients and/or ingredients of natural origin can exhibit problems of stability over time in combination with certain active agents such as anti-ageing agents.

There thus remains the need to provide cosmetic compositions predominantly formulated with natural ingredients and/or ingredients of natural origin that are devoid of the above-mentioned drawbacks.

The term "natural compound" is intended to mean a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

The term compounds "of natural origin" is intended to mean a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above.

Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a cosmetic composition which has good sensory and cosmetic properties, in particular to have a cosmetic composition which has a less pasty appearance and exhibits little or no soaping problem during application, and also good stability over time.

A subject of the present invention, not encompassed by the wording of the claims, is a composition comprising:.

A subject of the present invention, is a composition as claimed in claim <NUM>.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

Thus, the inventors have demonstrated that a composition comprising at least one specific AMPS® copolymer in combination with at least one acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof and an emulsifying system has a softer appearance and is more pleasant to the touch, allowing easy application to keratin materials such as the skin, and reduces, or even eliminates, the problem of soaping during application.

Furthermore, this composition exhibits stability over time in combination with active agents, such as anti-ageing active agents.

The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the various examples may in particular be combined within variants which are not illustrated.

The expression "comprising a" should be understood as meaning "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expression "at least one" is intended to mean "one or more".

According to the invention, the term "pasty" is intended to mean a composition which has a "viscous" consistency that is difficult to take up and to apply to keratin materials such as the skin.

According to the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to mean the skin, of the body, face and/or area around the eyes, the lips, the nails, mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, bodily hair, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair and/or the skin.

Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention are the skin.

The term "skin" is intended to mean all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face, in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin and area around the eyes.

The term "copolymer" is intended to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferentially a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin materials such as the skin.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one <NUM>-acrylamido-<NUM>-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS@) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) may be crosslinked. When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

The term "crosslinked copolymer" is understood to be a non-linear copolymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.

The crosslinking agent is more particularly chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide, or a mixture of these compounds. Preferably, the crosslinking agent is trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

The <NUM>-acrylamido-<NUM>-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) of the copolymer contained in the composition in accordance with the invention are in free form or are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and the mixture of these compounds.

According to the present disclosure, which is not encompassed by the wording of the claims, the <NUM>-acrylamido-<NUM>-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS@) monomers preferably correspond to general formula (I) below:
<CHM>
<CHM>
in which X+ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R<NUM> denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkyl radical such as methyl, and R<NUM> preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the <NUM>-acrylamido-<NUM>-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) are partially or completely salified in the form of the ammonium salt.

More preferentially, the <NUM>-acrylamido-<NUM>-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) are completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain part comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM> and more particularly from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms.

This ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer is chosen from the acrylates of formula (II), which is not encompassed by the wording of the claims:
<CHM>.

According to the invention, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R<NUM> represents a methyl, the group R<NUM> represents an alkyl radical comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between <NUM> and <NUM>.

Preferably, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is ethoxylated (25EO) stearyl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group R<NUM> represents a methyl, the group Y denotes O, the group R<NUM> represents an alkyl radical comprising <NUM> carbon atoms and x is equal to <NUM>.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group R<NUM> represents a methyl, the group Y denotes O, the group R<NUM> represents an alkyl radical comprising <NUM> carbon atoms and x is equal to <NUM>.

In this embodiment, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

Preferably, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is ethoxylated (25EO) lauryl methacrylate.

As AMPS® copolymer, mention may be made of the copolymer sold under the reference Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant, of INCI name Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-<NUM> methacrylate crosspolymer.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) described above may be present in the composition in a content ranging from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight and even more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates).

Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, such as lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, especially the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline-earth metals such as Mg, or the ammonium salts of said acids.

Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or a salt thereof are chosen from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by the company Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS <NUM> PF, Amisoft MK-<NUM>, Amisoft LK-<NUM> and Amisoft CK-<NUM>, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by the company Cognis.

Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by the company Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-<NUM> by the company Ajinomoto.

As acyl glutamic acid salt, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS <NUM> by the company Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-<NUM> by the company Ajinomoto.

Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, for instance the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-<NUM> sold by Ajinomoto.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by the company Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS <NUM> PF, is used.

The acyl glutamic acid(s) and salts thereof may be present in the composition in a content ranging from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside.

The term "emulsifying system" is intended to mean a system capable of forming an emulsion comprising surfactants.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkyl polyglucoside" is intended to mean an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization <NUM>) or an alkyl polysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than <NUM>).

The alkyl polyglucosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkyl polyglucosides. They generally correspond to formula (IV) below:.

Examples of alkyl polyglucosides that may be mentioned include decyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol <NUM>® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare <NUM> UP® by the company Henkel or the product sold under the name Oramix NS <NUM>® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE <NUM>® by the company Cognis or Oramix CG <NUM>® by the company SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare <NUM> UP® by the company Henkel or Plantaren <NUM> N® by the company Henkel; cetearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name Montanov <NUM> by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego Care CG90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the names Emulgade PL1618 or Emulgade KE <NUM> by the company Cognis; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov <NUM> by the company SEPPIC; cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare <NUM> UP® by the company Henkel; or the product in the form of a mixture of cocyl polyglucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols (<NUM>/<NUM>) sold under the name Montanov <NUM> by the company SEPPIC; methyl cocoyl glucoside sold under the name Eumulgin GTS by the company Cognis; octyldodecyl xyloside sold, for example, under the names Fluidanov 20X or Easynov by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare <NUM> UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the radical R<NUM> denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>, and even more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM>.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, (G)a is a glucoside group comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> and especially <NUM> to <NUM> glucoside units.

Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) correspond to formula (V) below:.

The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the saccharide residue is glucose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkyl polyglucoside may be in α or β isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.

It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkyl polysaccharides, which may differ from one another in the nature of the borne alkyl unit and/or the nature of the bearing polysaccharide chain.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside may be used as a mixture with at least one fatty alcohol, especially a fatty alcohol containing from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms and more particularly from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms.

In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to use together a fatty alcohol and an alkyl polyglucoside of which the alkyl part is identical to that of the selected fatty alcohol.

The fatty alcohol/alkyl polyglucoside emulsifying mixtures as defined above are known as such. They are described especially in <CIT>, <CIT> and <CIT> and prepared according to the preparation processes indicated in these documents.

Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohols/alkyl polyglucoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov®, such as the following mixtures:.

Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) employed in the composition according to the invention are chosen from cetylstearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) employed in the composition according to the invention are used in the form of a mixture with a fatty alcohol chosen from cetylstearyl alcohol (also called cetearyl alcohol), arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture, the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside chosen from the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture, the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made of the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov <NUM>®, constituted of approximately <NUM>% of cetylstearyl glucoside and approximately <NUM>% of cetylstearyl alcohol.

Mention may also be made of the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov <NUM>®.

The alkyl polyglucoside(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty substance.

The term "fatty substance" is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary ambient temperature (<NUM>) and at atmospheric pressure (<NUM> mmHg) (solubility of less than <NUM>%, preferably less than <NUM>% and even more preferentially less than <NUM>%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least <NUM> carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

These fatty substances are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are in particular chosen from C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of plant origin, glycerides, fluoro oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular <NUM> to <NUM>) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkanes, they may be linear or branched, and possibly cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than <NUM> carbon atoms may be chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

According to one particular embodiment, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition of the invention are chosen from volatile linear alkanes.

The term "one or more volatile linear alkanes" is intended to mean, without distinction, "one or more volatile linear alkane oils".

A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about <NUM>) and atmospheric pressure (<NUM><NUM> Pa or <NUM> mmHg).

The term "volatile linear alkane" that is suitable for the invention is intended to mean a linear alkane that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (<NUM>) and atmospheric pressure (<NUM><NUM> Pa), which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having an evaporation rate ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>/cm<NUM>/minute, at ambient temperature (<NUM>) and atmospheric pressure (<NUM><NUM> Pa).

Preferably, the volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>/cm<NUM>/minute and better still from <NUM> to <NUM>/cm<NUM>/minute, at ambient temperature (<NUM>) and atmospheric pressure (<NUM><NUM> Pa).

More preferably, the volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>/cm<NUM>/minute, preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM>/cm<NUM>/minute and even more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM>/cm<NUM>/minute, at ambient temperature (<NUM>) and atmospheric pressure (<NUM><NUM> Pa).

The evaporation rate of a volatile alkane in accordance with the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) may in particular be evaluated by means of the protocol described in <CIT>, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.

<NUM> of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent are placed in a crystallizing dish (diameter: <NUM>) placed on a balance that is in a chamber of about <NUM><NUM> which is temperature-regulated (<NUM>) and hygrometry-regulated (<NUM>% relative humidity).

The volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference <NUM> N, rotating at <NUM> rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, <NUM> away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.

The weight of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals. The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg/cm<NUM>) as a function of the time (in minutes).

The evaporation rate is then calculated, which corresponds to the tangent to the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit of surface area (cm<NUM>) and per unit of time (minute).

According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapour pressure (also known as saturation vapour pressure), at ambient temperature, in particular a vapour pressure ranging from <NUM> Pa to <NUM> Pa.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from <NUM> to <NUM> Pa and better still from <NUM> to <NUM> Pa, at ambient temperature (<NUM>). More preferably, the volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from <NUM> to <NUM> Pa, preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM> Pa and even more preferentially from <NUM> to <NUM> Pa, at ambient temperature (<NUM>).

A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention may have a flash point that is within the range from <NUM> to <NUM> and more particularly from <NUM> to <NUM>. The flash point is in particular measured according to standard ISO <NUM>.

The volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention may be linear alkanes comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms and better still from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms.

A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.

As examples of alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications <CIT> and <CIT>. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and n-pentadecane (C15) and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples <NUM> and <NUM> of application <CIT>.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold, respectively, under the references Parafol <NUM>-<NUM> and Parafol <NUM>-<NUM> by the company Sasol, and also mixtures thereof.

One embodiment consists in using only one volatile linear alkane. Alternatively, a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes, differing from one another by a carbon number n of at least <NUM>, in particular differing from one another by a carbon number of <NUM> or <NUM>, may be used.

Among the animal oils, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Among the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, coriander oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® <NUM>, <NUM> and <NUM> by Dynamit Nobel.

Fluoro oils that may be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-<NUM>,<NUM>-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-<NUM>,<NUM>-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF <NUM>® and PF <NUM>® by the company <NUM>, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as <NUM>-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF <NUM>® by the company <NUM>.

The fatty alcohols that may be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and comprise from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms and more particularly from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, <NUM>-butyloctanol, <NUM>-hexyldecanol, <NUM>-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

The wax(es) that may be used in the cosmetic composition of the invention are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

As regards the fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C<NUM>-C<NUM> aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C<NUM>-C<NUM> aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to <NUM>.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; <NUM>-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, <NUM>-ethylhexyl palmitate, <NUM>-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, <NUM>-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, <NUM>-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this variant, esters of C<NUM>-C<NUM> dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C<NUM>-C<NUM> alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C<NUM>-C<NUM> di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, <NUM>-ethylhexyl palmitate, <NUM>-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or <NUM>-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, <NUM>-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C<NUM>-C<NUM> and preferably C<NUM>-C<NUM> fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" is intended to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least <NUM> carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be in particular chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C<NUM>-C<NUM> and preferably C<NUM>-C<NUM> fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate or oleostearate.

The silicones that may be used in the present composition are volatile or nonvolatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from <NUM>×<NUM>-<NUM> to <NUM><NUM>/s at <NUM>, and preferably <NUM>×<NUM>-<NUM> to <NUM><NUM>/s.

The silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums, preferably silicone oils.

Preferably, the silicone(s) are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyethylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

The fatty substance(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight and more preferentially from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer, different from the AMPS® copolymer described above.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer.

The homopolymer may be crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, chosen especially from pentaerythrityl allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether and propylene allyl ether.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the names Carbopol <NUM>, <NUM>, <NUM>, <NUM>, <NUM> P, <NUM>, <NUM>, <NUM>, <NUM> and Carbopol Ultrez <NUM> Polymer (INCI name: carbomer), or by the company 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L or Synthalen® M.

The crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, different from the AMPS® copolymer described above, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, different from the AMPS® copolymer described above.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, polysaccharides of biotechnological origin, and mixtures thereof.

As an example of polysaccharides of biotechnological origin, mention may be made of xanthan gum.

The plant-derived polysaccharide(s) may, where appropriate, be chemically modified to promote their hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses (e.g.: hydroxyethylcellulose).

As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of:.

Preferentially, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gums, modified or unmodified starches, celluloses and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Said hydrophilic gelling agent(s), different from the AMPS® copolymer described above, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise water in a content of greater than or equal to <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises water in a total amount of between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, better still between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents different from the fatty substances described above.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include lower C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance <NUM>-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents, different from the fatty substances described above.

The organic solvent(s) may be present in proportions preferably inclusively between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight approximately and even more particularly inclusively between <NUM>% and <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from deodorant active agents, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, moisturizers, calmatives, antioxidants, astringents, anti-ageing agents, antiwrinkle agents; softeners, antioxidants, stabilizers, UV-screening agents, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, dyes, fragrances or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a gel, an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, or a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O), in the form of a cream, a mousse, a stick, a dispersion of vesicles, especially of ionic or non-ionic lipids, or a two-phase or multi-phase lotion.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

Those skilled in the art may select the appropriate presentation form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a "physiologically acceptable medium". The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium that is suitable for the topical administration of a composition, and that is compatible with all human keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin.

According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which is free of any odour or unpleasant appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention is suitable for topical administration, that is to say for application to the surface of the keratin material under consideration, such as the skin under consideration.

The compositions according to the invention are preferentially cosmetic compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin.

These compositions are in particular intended for topical application to the face and/or the body.

In particular, the composition is applied to the areas of the face, in particular the T area (forehead, nose, cheeks and chin), in particular the forehead and the nose, exhibiting shiny skin.

In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention has a pH of between <NUM> and <NUM>, preferably of between <NUM> and <NUM>.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention having a pH of between <NUM> and <NUM>, preferably having a pH of between <NUM> and <NUM>, have improved stability, in particular with regard to the chemical ingredients present in said compositions.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the combination of a copolymer of <NUM>-acrylamido-<NUM>-methylpropanesulfonic acid which is preferably totally salified in the form of an ammonium salt, and of ethoxylated (25EO) stearyl methacrylate. , and of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid mono sodium salt; with a mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearylglucoside, of arachidyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside.

Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

Another subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to ambient temperature (<NUM>-<NUM>), unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise indicated. Moreover, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

The following compositions were prepared according to the process below:.

The viscosity of compositions A, B and C was analysed using the method described below.

Compositions A1 and A2 are identical, in terms of compounds, to composition A according to the invention with a different acyl glutamic acid salt (sodium stearoyl glutamate) (see Table <NUM>).

The viscosity of the compositions is measured using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer. The measurements are performed after a resting period of <NUM> hours, at ambient temperature (<NUM>) using the M4 spindle provided with the measuring device. The measurements are performed at controlled ambient temperature (<NUM>).

The viscosity of the compositions was analysed at <NUM> seconds and at <NUM> minutes.

Results of the viscosity of the compositions:.

The compositions according to the invention (A, A1, A2 and B) comprising an acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof at different concentrations have a lower viscosity at <NUM> seconds and at <NUM> minutes than the comparative composition not comprising acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof. Thus, the compositions according to the invention have an appearance that is not very "pasty" and they are easier to take up and to apply while the same time being more pleasant at the time of application.

Compositions A, B and C according to the invention are applied to the skin, in a proportion of <NUM> of product on the hand, making circular movements <NUM> times with the index finger and while subsequently evaluating the application of the formulae, by a panel of <NUM> individuals.

Compositions A and B according to the invention have an appearance that is not very "pasty", and are therefore easy to apply. Furthermore, there is barely a soaping effect observed on the skin during the application of the compositions according to the invention.

Comparative composition C exhibits a very considerable soaping effect on the skin compared with the compositions according to the invention.

The stability of a composition of the invention can be evaluated by means of the following protocol.

A composition is prepared and is then placed at ambient temperature, in an incubator at a temperature of <NUM>, in an incubator at a temperature of <NUM> and in an incubator at a temperature of <NUM> (for example an incubator of the Firlabo Bio concept brand).

At T=<NUM>, the pH is evaluated and the viscosity is measured for each composition, and also the appearance, colour and odour of the composition. Each composition is also observed under a microscope between a cover slip and slide, at a magnification of X10.

At T=<NUM> month, the appearance, colour and odour of each composition is evaluated. Each composition is also observed under a microscope between a cover slip and slide, at a magnification of X10. Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial appearance.

At T=<NUM> months, the pH is evaluated and the viscosity is measured for each composition, and also the appearance, colour and odour of the composition. Each composition is also observed under a microscope between a cover slip and slide, at a magnification of X10. Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial appearance.

The composition must not exhibit any modification of the macroscopic appearance: it must remain smooth and homogeneous, without any release, without any phase separation and without any colour change.

Compositions A and B according to the invention do not exhibit any macroscopic or microscopic appearance modifications; they are considered to be stable.

Comparative composition C exhibits stability problems after <NUM> months spent in the incubator at <NUM>.

The following compositions were prepared according to the process as described in example <NUM>.

Composition D according to the invention and comparative composition E are applied to the skin, in a proportion of <NUM> of product on the hand, making circular movements <NUM> times with the index finger and while subsequently evaluating the application of the formulae, by a panel of <NUM> individuals.

Composition D according to the invention have an appearance that is not very "pasty", and are therefore easy to apply. Furthermore, there is barely a soaping effect observed on the skin during the application of the composition according to the invention.

Claim 1:
Composition comprising:
a) at least one copolymer comprising at least one <NUM>-acrylamido-<NUM>-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group,
b) at least one acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, and
c) at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside; and
wherein the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is chosen from the acrylates of formula (II):
<CHM>
in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R<NUM> represents a methyl, the group R<NUM> represents an alkyl radical comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between <NUM> and <NUM>.