Patent Description:
In the field of hair cosmetic treatments, leave-on type and leave-off type hair cosmetics are important sectors in the hair care category, and consumers use these hair cosmetics to provide hair with smoothness, moist feeling, volume control and the like. Recently, consumers are attracted by transparent hair cosmetics due to their clean appearance.

<CIT> discloses a transparent hair cosmetic composition including a specific cationic surfactant, an ethyleneoxide adduct to <NUM>,<NUM>-dodecanediol, and water, wherein the amounts of these ingredient are limited to certain ranges. The hair cosmetic composition disclosed in <CIT> may include silicone. However, the amount of silicone is limited to up to <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

<CIT> also discloses a transparent or translucent hair cosmetic composition including a thickener, a cationic surfactant and/or a nonionic surfactant, a hydrophobicized amidesilicone copolyol, wherein the amounts of these ingredients are limited to certain ranges. The amount of the hydrophobicized amidesilicone copolyol is limited to up to about <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

<CIT> and <CIT> relate to compositions suitable for treating hair comprising <NUM> wt. -% silicone oil, water, <NUM> wt. -% polyol, wherein the water:polyol weight ratio is <NUM> or less. <CIT> and <CIT> also relate to a hair treating composition comprising <NUM> wt. -% silicone oil, water, <NUM> wt. -% polyol with a water:polyol weight ratio of <NUM> or less. <CIT> relates to compositions for preventing and reducing frizzy appearance of hair comprising silicone acrylate films, silicone film formers and volatile silicone.

An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for hair comprising the step of applying to hair a composition for hair which is transparent and stable, and can provide the hair with improved conditioning and manageability cosmetic effects such as smoothness, ease of running fingers through the hair, moist feeling, less stickiness on hair, and volume down control. The term "volume down" means that the spreading of hair is reduced or controlled, and therefore, the style of the hair can be well controlled.

The above objective can be achieved by a cosmetic process for hair comprising the step of applying to hair a composition for treating hair, comprising:.

wherein
the weight ratio of the amount of the (b) water/the amount of the (c) polyol is <NUM> or less.

The amount of the (a) silicone oil in the composition may be <NUM>% by weight or less, preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a) silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The (a) silicone oil may comprise both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, and the amount of the non-volatile silicone oil is from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>%, and more preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The volatile silicone oil may be selected from cyclic silicones.

The non-volatile silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes and organo-modified polydimethylsiloxanes.

The organo-modified polydimethylsiloxane may be selected from amodimethicones.

The amount of the (b) water in the composition may range from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (c) polyol in the composition may be <NUM>% by weight or less, preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the amount of the (b) water/the amount of the (c) polyol may be <NUM> or more, more preferably <NUM> or more, and more preferably <NUM> or more.

The composition applied according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one cationic polymer.

The composition applied according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one cationic surfactant.

The composition applied according to the present invention may be leave-on type or leave-off type.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a cosmetic process for hair comprising the step of applying to hair a composition for hair which is transparent and stable, and can provide the hair with improved conditioning and manageability cosmetic effects such as smoothness, ease of running fingers through the hair, moist feeling, less stickiness on hair, and volume down control.

Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a cosmetic process for hair comprising the step of applying to hair a composition for treating hair, comprising:.

The composition applied according to the present invention includes a relatively higher amount of silicone oil(s) and polyol(s) as compared to conventional hair cosmetic compositions.

The composition applied according to the present invention is transparent and the transparent aspect of the present invention is stable over time, and therefore the application of the composition according to the present invention can be attractive for consumers.

The application of the composition according to the present invention can also provide hair with improved conditioning and manageability cosmetic effects such as smoothness (e.g., smooth combing even if the is wet, and smooth feeling to touch when the hair is dry), ease of running fingers through the hair even if the hair is wet, moist feeling even if the hair is dry, less stickiness (or less greasy) on hair when the hair is dry, and volume down control (therefore, it can be easy to style the shape of hair, due to anti-frizz properties of the application of the composition according to the present invention).

Hereafter, the present invention will be described in a detailed manner.

One aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for hair comprising the step of applying to hair a composition for treating hair, comprising:.

The composition applied according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) silicone oil. A single type of silicone oil may be used, or two or more different types of silicone oils may be used in combination.

Here, "silicone oil" means a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (<NUM>) under atmospheric pressure (<NUM> mmHg). As the silicone oils, those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination thereof.

Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for instance, by <NPL>. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

Thus, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be selected from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the (a) silicone oil may comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched, or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organo-functional moiety or group.

For example, the (a) silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organo-functional moiety or group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, amine or amide moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, hydroxyacylamino moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups, polyamine or polyamide moieties or groups, and oxazoline moieties.

If the (a) silicone oil(s) is/are volatile, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from <NUM> to <NUM>, for example:.

If the (a) silicone oil(s) is/are volatile, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from cyclic silicones.

On the other hand, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organo-modified polysiloxanes as explained above.

According to one embodiment, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:.

Products marketed under the trade names "ABIL Wax® <NUM> and <NUM>" by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, which are polydialkyl (C<NUM>-C<NUM>) siloxanes, may also be used.

Polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenyl siloxanes.

Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylarylsiloxanes include the products marketed under the following trade names:.

Organo-modified silicones which may be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those previously defined and comprising within their structure at least one organo-functional moiety or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group.

Organo-modified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy moieties optionally comprising C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkyl moieties, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC <NUM> and under the trade name DC Q2-<NUM> and SILWET® L <NUM>, L <NUM>, L <NUM>, and L <NUM> fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE, as well as PEG12 dimethicone marked under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-<NUM> FLUID by DOW CORNING, and (C<NUM>)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 <NUM>; optionally substituted amine moieties, for example, the products marketed under the trade name GP <NUM> Silicone Fluid and GP <NUM> by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 <NUM> and DOW CORNING <NUM> and <NUM> by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine moieties may be chosen, for example, from amino C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkyl moieties. Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have additional C<NUM>-C<NUM> alkoxy functional groups, such as those corresponding to the WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG <NUM> product. Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have at least one, preferably two, additional alkyl group(s) such as C<NUM>-C<NUM>, preferably C<NUM>-C<NUM>, and more preferably C<NUM> -C<NUM> alkyl groups, preferably at the terminal(s) of the molecular chain thereof, such as bis-cetearylamodimethicone, marketed under the trade name "Silsoft Ax" by Momentive Performance Materials;.

Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as fluids of the <NUM> series marketed by RHODIA.

If the (a) silicone oil(s) is/are non-volatile, the (a) silicone oil(s) may be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and organo-modified polydimethylsiloxanes. The organo-modified polydimethylsiloxane may be selected from amodimethicones. The viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane or the organo-modified polydimethylsiloxane may be from <NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM> cst to <NUM>,<NUM>,<NUM> cst.

It may be preferable that the (a) silicone oil be selected from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups that are pendent and/or at the end(s) of the silicone chain, which groups have from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, <NUM>-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organo-modified silicones such as dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol (e.g., PEG12 dimethicone) and amodimethicone (e.g., bis-cetearylamodimethicone).

It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone, as the (a) silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for instance, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-<NUM> Fluid by Dow Coming.

The amount of the (a) silicone oil in the composition applied according to the present invention is <NUM>% by weight or more, preferably <NUM>% by weight or more, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of the (a) silicone oil in the composition applied according to the present invention may be <NUM>% by weight or less, preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Accordingly, the amount of the (a) silicone in the composition applied according to the present invention may range from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

If the (a) silicone oil comprises both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, the amount of the non-volatile silicone oil may be from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>%, and more preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition applied according to the present invention comprises (b) water.

The amount of the (b) water in the composition applied according to the present invention may be <NUM>% by weight or more, preferably <NUM>% by weight or more, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) water in the composition applied according to the present invention may be <NUM>% by weight or less, preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the amount of the (b) water in the composition applied according to the present invention may range from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition applied according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

The (c) polyol may be a C<NUM>-<NUM> polyol, preferably a C<NUM>-<NUM> polyol, comprising at least <NUM> hydroxy groups, and preferably <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxy groups.

The (c) polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The (c) polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The (c) polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, polypropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, <NUM>,<NUM>-propanediol, <NUM>,<NUM>-propanediol, and <NUM>,<NUM>-pentanediol.

It may be preferable that the (c) polyol have <NUM> or more carbon atoms, and be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol and mixtures thereof.

It may be more preferable that the (c) polyol have a refractive index of <NUM> or more.

The polyol may be an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula (I):.

The aforementioned alkylene oxide derivatives may be a single type thereof, or a mixture of plural types thereof.

In the alkylene oxide derivative represented by formula (I), Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups, and a denotes the number of hydroxyl groups of the compound and is <NUM> to <NUM>. As examples of compounds having <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups, mention may be made of, for example, in the case of a = <NUM>, glycerin, and trimethylolpropane; in the case of a = <NUM>, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, alkylglycosides, and diglycerin; in the case of a = <NUM>, xylitol; in the case of a = <NUM>, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, and inositol; in the case of a = <NUM>, sucrose, and trehalose; in the case of a = <NUM>, maltitol; mixtures thereof; and the like. Preferably, Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl group(s) from a compound having <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups, and a satisfies <NUM> ≤ a ≤ <NUM>. As the compound having <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups, glycerin or trimethylolpropane is preferable, and in particular, glycerin is preferable. In the case of a ≤ <NUM>, poor compatibility with oil components such as fats and oils may be exhibited, and blending stability in an oil-based formulation may tend to be impaired. In the case of <NUM> ≤ a, stickiness may occur.

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms. As examples thereof, mention may be made of, for example, an oxypropylene group, an oxybutylene group (an oxy-n-butylene group, an oxyisobutylene group, or an oxy-t-butylene group), an oxytrimethylene group, an oxytetramethylene group, and the like. The oxypropylene group and oxybutylene group are preferable, and the oxypropylene group is more preferable.

<NUM> denotes the average addition mole number of AO, and satisfies <NUM> ≤ <NUM> ≤ <NUM>, and preferably <NUM> ≤ <NUM> ≤ <NUM>. m denotes the average addition mole number of EO, and satisfies <NUM> ≤ m ≤ <NUM>, and preferably <NUM> ≤ m ≤ <NUM>. If <NUM> is <NUM>, stickiness may occur. On the other hand, if <NUM> exceeds <NUM>, moisturizing effects may be decreased. In addition, if m is <NUM>, moisturizing effects may be decreased. On the other hand, if m exceeds <NUM>, stickiness may occur.

The weight ratio of AO to EO (AO/EO) ranges from <NUM>/<NUM> to <NUM>/<NUM>, and preferably ranges from <NUM>/<NUM> to <NUM>/<NUM>. If AO/EO is below <NUM>/<NUM>, stickiness may occur. On the other hand, if AO/EO exceeds <NUM>/<NUM>, the moisturizing sensation may be decreased. The order of adding AO and EO is not particularly specified. AO and EO can be added randomly or in the form of blocks. In order to obtain superior effects of preventing skin roughness, AO and EO are preferably added randomly.

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having <NUM> carbon atoms. As examples thereof, mention may be made of, for example, an oxybutylene group (an oxy-n-butylene group, an oxy-isobutylene group, or an oxy-t-butylene group), an oxytetramethylene group, and the like. The oxybutylene group is preferable.

n denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and satisfies <NUM> <n ≤ <NUM>, preferably <NUM> ≤ n ≤ <NUM>, and more preferably <NUM> ≤ n ≤ <NUM>. If n is below <NUM>, stickiness may occur. On the other hand, if n exceeds <NUM>, moisturizing effects may be decreased. In formula (I), it is necessary that (BO)n bonds to the terminal hydrogen atom.

The alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I) can be produced by means of known methods. For example, the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I) can be obtained by additive-polymerizing ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms to a compound having <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups, and subsequently reacting with an alkylene oxide having <NUM> carbon atoms. When additive-polymerizing ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms to a compound having <NUM> to <NUM> hydroxyl groups, the ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide may be polymerized randomly or in the form of blocks.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I), preferable examples of the aforementioned alkylene oxide derivatives include, for example, an alkylene oxide derivative (polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol) represented by formula (II) shown below:.

The aforementioned alkylene oxide derivative represented by formula (II) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin, in the ratio of <NUM> to <NUM> mole equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to glycerin, and subsequently, adding the alkylene oxide having <NUM> carbon atoms in the ratio of <NUM> to <NUM> mole equivalents thereof with respect to glycerin.

In the case of adding the aforementioned alkylene oxides to glycerin, the addition reactions are carried out with an alkali catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or the like. In general, an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferably employed.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I), more preferable derivatives are obtained by adding <NUM> to <NUM> mol of ethylene oxide and <NUM> to <NUM> mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding <NUM> to <NUM> mol of butylene oxide.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I), a further more preferable derivative is polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, which is obtained by adding <NUM> mol of ethylene oxide and <NUM> mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding <NUM> mol of butylene oxide, and which has an INCI name of PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-<NUM>/<NUM>/<NUM> glycerin. PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-<NUM>/<NUM>/<NUM> glycerin is commercially available under the trade name of WILBRIDE S-<NUM> from NOF Corporation.

The amount of the (c) polyol(s) in the composition applied according to the present invention may be <NUM>% by weight or less, preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of the (c) polyol(s) in the composition applied according to the present invention is <NUM>% by weight or more, and more preferably from <NUM>% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Accordingly, the amount of the (c) polyol(s) in the composition applied according to the present invention may range from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention, the weight ratio of the amount of the (b) water/the amount of the (c) polyol is <NUM> or less, preferably <NUM> or less, more preferably <NUM> or less, and even more preferably <NUM> or less.

On the other hand, the weight ratio of the amount of the (b) water/the amount of the (c) polyol may be <NUM> or more, preferably <NUM> or more, more preferably <NUM> or more, and even more preferably <NUM> or more.

Accordingly, the weight ratio of the amount of the (b) water/the amount of the (c) polyol may be from <NUM> to <NUM>, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>, and even more preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>.

The composition applied according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one cationic polymer. A single type of cationic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

It should be noted that, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.

Such polymers may be chosen from those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e., especially those described in patent application <CIT> and in French patents <CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT> and <CIT>.

The cationic polymers that are preferred are chosen from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups, which may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between approximately <NUM> and approximately <NUM>×<NUM><NUM> and preferably between approximately <NUM><NUM> and approximately <NUM>×<NUM><NUM>.

Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type.

These are known products. They are described in particular in <CIT> and <CIT>. Among the said polymers, mention may be made of the following.

The polymers of family (<NUM>) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C<NUM>-C<NUM>) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these polymers of family (<NUM>), mention may be made of:.

(<NUM>) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, which are described in <CIT>, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR <NUM>, JR <NUM>, JR <NUM>) or "LR" (LR <NUM>, LR <NUM>) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammoniums that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

(<NUM>) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as the copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, described especially in <CIT>, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyl-trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name Celquat L <NUM> and Celquat H <NUM> by the company Akzo Nobel.

(<NUM>) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in <CIT> and <CIT>, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a salt (e.g., chloride) of <NUM>,<NUM>-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium. Mention may be made of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, such as those sold especially under the trade names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C14S, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

(<NUM>) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, in particular, in <CIT> and <CIT>.

(<NUM>) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from <NUM> to <NUM> mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, in <CIT> and <CIT>.

(<NUM>) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as a main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (V) or (VI):
<CHM>
in which formulae
k and t are equal to <NUM> or <NUM>, the sum k + t being equal to <NUM>; R<NUM> denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R<NUM> and R<NUM>, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, a lower (C<NUM>-C<NUM>) amidoalkyl group, or R<NUM> and R<NUM> can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R<NUM> and R<NUM>, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms; and Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in <CIT> and in its Certificate of Addition <CIT>.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "Merquat <NUM>" by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the name "Merquat <NUM>".

(<NUM>) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to the formula:
<CHM>
in which formula (VII):.

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers generally have a number-average molecular mass of between <NUM> and <NUM><NUM>.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in <CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT> and <CIT> and <CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT><CIT> and <CIT>.

It is more particularly possible to use polymers that consist of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (VIII):
<CHM>
in which
R<NUM>, R<NUM>, R<NUM> and R<NUM>, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from <NUM> to <NUM> approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

One particularly preferred compound of formula (VIII) is that for which R<NUM>, R<NUM> R<NUM> and R<NUM> represent a methyl group, n=<NUM>, p=<NUM> and X=Cl, which is called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI(CTFA) nomenclature.

(<NUM>) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Cognis, which is given under the reference name "Polyethylene glycol (<NUM>) tallow polyamine" in the CTFA dictionary.

(<NUM>) Crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkyltri(C<NUM>-C<NUM>)alkylammonium salt polymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (<NUM>/<NUM> by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing <NUM>% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name "Salcare® SC <NUM>" by the company BASF. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about <NUM>% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names "Salcare® SC <NUM>" and "Salcare® SC <NUM>" by the company Allied Colloids.

(<NUM>) Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

It is preferable that the cationic polymer be a polyquaternium polymer or a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt.

Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts are cationic polymers comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom. Mention may in particular be made, as polymeric quaternary ammonium salts, of the Polyquaternium products (CTFA name), which contribute mainly to the quality of foam and feeling of the skin after use, in particular the feeling of the skin after use. These polymers can preferably be chosen from the following polymers:.

The amount of the (d) cationic polymer(s) may be <NUM>% by weight or less, preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition applied according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (d) cationic polymer(s) is not zero. The amount of the (d) cationic polymer(s) may be <NUM>% by weight or more, preferably <NUM>% by weight or more, and more preferably from <NUM>% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition applied according to the present invention.

The composition applied according to the present invention may contain the (d) cationic polymer(s) in an amount of from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition applied according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one cationic surfactant. A single type of cationic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of cationic surfactants may be used in combination.

The (e) cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
those of general formula (V) below:
<CHM>
wherein.

An example of one such diquaternary ammonium salt is propanetallowdiammonium dichloride; and
quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VIII) below:
<CHM>
wherein:.

In one embodiment, y is equal to <NUM>. In another embodiment, r, n and p, which may be identical or different, are equal to <NUM> or <NUM>, for example equal to <NUM>. The anion X- may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and C1-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the invention. In one embodiment, the anion X- is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.

In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) may be used, wherein:.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (VIII) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylamm- onium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE <NUM>" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

The compositions applied according to the invention may comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

A non-limiting example of a mixture of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the invention is that comprising from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate, from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate, and from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radicals of all these compounds comprising from <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms and being derived from optionally partially hydrogenated palm oil.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in <CIT> and <CIT>.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in compositions according to the invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (V), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about <NUM> to <NUM> carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® <NUM>" by the company Van Dyk.

According to one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant that may be used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (cetrimonium chloride), Quaternium-<NUM>, Quaternium-<NUM>, Quaternium-<NUM>, behenylamidopropyl-<NUM>,<NUM>-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

The amount of the (e) cationic surfactant(s) may be <NUM>% by weight or less, preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, and more preferably <NUM>% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition applied according to the present invention, with the proviso that the amount of the (e) cationic surfactant(s) is not zero. The amount of the (e) cationic surfactant(s) may be <NUM>% by weight or more, preferably <NUM>% by weight or more, and more preferably from <NUM>% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition applied according to the present invention.

The composition applied according to the present invention may contain the (e) cationic surfactant (s) in an amount of from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition applied according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.

The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for water or oils; suspending agents; sequestering agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, and more preferably from <NUM>% to <NUM>% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition applied according to the present invention.

The composition applied according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition applied according to the present invention.

The composition applied according to the present invention may be leave-on type or leave-off type, preferably leave-on type.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for hair, comprising the step of applying the composition as described herein to the hair.

The hair to which the composition as described herein has been applied can be left for an appropriate time which is required to treat the hair. The time length for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from <NUM> minute to <NUM> minutes, preferably from <NUM> minute to <NUM> minutes, and more preferably from <NUM> minute to <NUM> minutes. Thus, for example, the total time for the treatments according to the present invention may be from <NUM> to <NUM> minutes, preferably from <NUM> to <NUM> minutes, and more preferably from <NUM> minutes to <NUM> minutes.

The hair may be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the hair can be heated at <NUM> to <NUM>, preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, and even more preferably <NUM> to <NUM>, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto the hairs.

The hair to which the composition as described herein has been applied may or may not be rinsed.

The cosmetic process, according to the present invention can provide hair with improved conditioning and manageability cosmetic effects such as smoothness (e.g., smooth combing even if the hair is wet, and smooth feeling to touch when the hair is dry), ease of running fingers through the hair even if the hair is wet, moist feeling even if the hair is dry, less stickiness (or less greasy) on hair when the hair is, and volume down control (therefore, it can be easy to style the shape of hair, due to anti-frizz properties of the composition as described herein). The term "volume down" means that spreading of hair is reduced or controlled, and therefore, the style of the hair can be well controlled.

In particular, the process according to the present invention can provide hair with higher level of smoothness, moisturizing, volume control and the like, as well as less stickiness, without over-greasiness.

The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.

Each of the compositions for hair according to Example <NUM> (Ex. <NUM>) and Comparative Examples <NUM> to <NUM> (Comp. <NUM> to Comp. <NUM>) was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table <NUM>. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.

Just after the preparation of the compositions according to Example <NUM> and Comparative Examples <NUM> to <NUM>, the appearance of each composition was visually observed at room temperature and categorized in accordance with the following criteria. The results are shown in the line of "Appearance at room temperature" in Table <NUM>.

<NUM> hours after the preparation of the compositions according to Example <NUM> and Comparative Examples <NUM> to <NUM>, the appearance of each composition was visually observed at room temperature and categorized in accordance with the following criteria. The results are shown in the line of "Stability after <NUM> hours at room temperature" in Table <NUM>.

A wet hair swatch (<NUM>, <NUM>) to which the same amount of each of the composition according to Example <NUM> and Comparative Examples <NUM> to <NUM> had been applied was placed on a combing machine (Diastron MTT <NUM> by Dia-Stron Limited UK) and put a comb with a sensor into the hair fibers. Combing was performed by scanning the hair swatch from root to tip, and measured friction force. The measurements were performed <NUM> times per one wet hair swatch. The same operation was repeated for other two wet hair swatches. In total, the measurements were performed for three hair swatches. The maximum force was selected from the measured data of each hair swatch. The average value of the three maximum forces was calculated and categorized in accordance with the following criteria. The results are shown in the line of "Force of wet combing" in Table <NUM>.

The hair swatch was shampooed before application. The hair swatch was placed on a hot plate (<NUM>), and then the composition was applied onto the hair swatch and rinsed off under running water.

A hair swatch (<NUM>, <NUM>) to which the same amount of each of the composition according to Example <NUM> and Comparative Examples <NUM> to <NUM> had been applied was dried, and the width of the hair swatch at the middle of the length of the hair swatch was measured just after the drying.

The measured value was categorized in accordance with the following criteria. The results are shown in the line of "T<NUM> Volume/cm width" in Table <NUM>. Then, the hair swatch was left for <NUM> hours at <NUM> under <NUM>% humidity. The width of the hair swatch at the middle of the length of the hair swatch was measured again. The measured value was categorized in accordance with the following criteria. The results are shown in the line of "T<NUM> Volume/cm width" in Table <NUM>.

Using Japanese slightly bleached hair swatch, the items of finger through hair when wet, smoothness of hair when dry, moist feeling of hair when dry, and stickiness of hair when dry, after the application of each of the composition according to Example <NUM> and Comparative Examples <NUM> to <NUM>, were evaluated by <NUM> panelists in accordance with the following criteria.

The average of the scores by the panelists for each sensory assessment was categorized in accordance with the following criteria. The results are shown in the lines of "finger of hair when wet", "smoothness of hair when dry", "moist feeling of hair when dry", and "stickiness of hair when dry" in Table <NUM>.

The hair swatch was shampooed before application. The hair swatch was placed on a hot plate (<NUM>), and then the composition was applied onto the hair swatch and rinsed off under running water. With regard to the evaluation of "smoothness of hair when dry", "moist feeling of hair when dry", and "stickiness of hair when dry", the hair swatch was dried at ambient temperature.

Table <NUM> shows that the composition according to Example <NUM> was transparent and stable for a long period of time. The composition according to Example <NUM> can also provide low wet combing force which results in smooth combing. Table <NUM> also shows that the composition according to Example <NUM> can provide excellent volume control effects just after application and <NUM> hours after the application even under high temperature and humid conditions. Table <NUM> also shows that the composition according to Example <NUM> can provide better cosmetic effects to hair under both wet and dry conditions.

The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> included no water, and was opaque. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided high wet combing force which results in less smooth combing. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor volume control effects just after application and <NUM> hours after the application under high temperature and humid conditions. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided very sticky feeling to touch when dry conditions.

The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> included silicone oils in an amount of less than <NUM>% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and was translucent and unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided high wet combing force which results in less smooth combing. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor volume control effects just after application and <NUM> hours after the application under high temperature and humid conditions. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor cosmetic effects to hair under both wet and dry conditions.

The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> included no silicones, and was transparent and stable. However, the composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided high wet combing force which results in less smooth combing. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor volume control effects just after application and <NUM> hours after the application under high temperature and humid conditions. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor cosmetic effects on hair under both wet and dry conditions.

The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> included no polyol, and was opaque and unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided low wet combing force which results in smooth combing. However, the composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor volume control effects just after application and <NUM> hours after the application under high temperature and humid conditions. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor cosmetic effects in terms of finger through hair when wet and stickiness of hair when dry.

The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> included polyol but the weight ratio of water/polyol was more than <NUM>, and was opaque and unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided high wet combing force which results in less smooth combing. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor volume control effects just after application and <NUM> hours after the application under high temperature and humid conditions. The composition according to Comparative Example <NUM> provided poor cosmetic effects in terms of finger through when wet and stickiness of hair when dry.

Claim 1:
A cosmetic process for hair, comprising the step of applying to hair, a composition for treating hair, comprising:
(a) at least one silicone oil in an amount of <NUM>% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition;
(b) water; and
(c) at least one polyol in an amount of <NUM>% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition,
wherein
the weight ratio of the amount of the (b) water/the amount of the (c) polyol is <NUM> or less.