Patent Document

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION  
         [0001]    This invention relates to a setting for a jewelry item, and more particularly, to a prong setting for accommodating different size jewelry stones.  
           [0002]    In the jewelry trade, prong settings are used to hold and retain diamonds and other types of precious or semi-precious stones. Presently, prong settings are fixed in position with respect to the jewerly item, and therefore different bezel sizes (openings) are required for different size stones. Prong settings usually come in ¼ carat (4 m/m), ⅜ carat (4½ m/m), one-half carat—⅝ carat—¾ carat—1 carat—all the way up to about 2 carats. For each size, there is a ½ m/m increase. Moreover, even with the ½ m/m separation, the stone that is used often does not fit appropriately.  
           [0003]    The problem with the prior art prong settings is that it is necessary to have a different size setting for each ring or other jewelry item in order to cover the various range of stone sizes. Moreover, even having different size settings is less than desirable, since some stones may not fit appropriately within the prong setting. Moreover, prior art prong settings are less than adequate in terms of strength in holding a stone in position therewithin. Even though a conventional bezel setting overcomes this disadvantage and has added strength for holding the stone in position within the setting, such a setting is less than desirable from an aesthetic point of view. In a conventional bezel setting, a substantial portion of the retained stone is partially or completely hidden from view.  
           [0004]    Accordingly, it is desirable to provide a prong type setting for a ring or other jewelry item which overcomes the above disadvantages and enables the easy retention of various size jewelry stones.  
         SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION  
         [0005]    Generally speaking, in accordance with the invention, a prong setting for a ring or other jewelry item is provided. The prong setting is mounted along the jewelry item and includes a first prong element and a facing second prong element for defining an opening therebetween in which a jewelry stone is received. In one embodiment, the prong elements are movable with respect to one another in order to be able to selectively adjust the distance between the prong elements, and thus the size of the opening. As a result, the prong setting can accommodate jewelry stones of varying size.  
           [0006]    Preferably, the prong elements of the setting are movable with respect to one another by being pivotally attached along the jewelry item. In particular, each prong element has a depending flexible pin element coupled to the jewelry item. Each pin element is received in a hole formed in the jewelry unit and can flex in both a forward and back direction. As a result, each prong element is adjustable in both a forward and back direction so that the setting is capable of receiving different size jewelry stones.  
           [0007]    After the prong elements for any given jewelry item have been moved or positioned as directed, each prong element, including its corresponding depending pin element, is soldered and/or bonded in position.  
           [0008]    In a preferred design, the prong elements include a top lip or wire portion used to engage the jewelry stone. The lip or wire portion of the design is specially sized and shaped to enhance the strength of the setting in holding the stone in position therewithin.  
           [0009]    Accordingly, it is an object of the invention to provide an improved prong setting for a jewelry item.  
           [0010]    Still another object of the invention is to provide a prong setting for a jewelry item which can accommodate various size jewelry stones.  
           [0011]    Still a further object of the invention is to provide a prong setting for a jewelry item in which the bezel elements thereof may be adjusted in position therealong.  
           [0012]    Yet another object of the invention is to provide a prong setting for a jewelry item in which a jewelry stone fits correctly therewithin.  
           [0013]    A further object of the invention is to provide a setting for a jewelry item which has greater strength in retaining a stone.  
           [0014]    Another object of the invention is to provide a setting for a jewelry item which enables better viewing of the retained stone.  
           [0015]    Still other objects and advantages of the invention will in part be obvious and will in part be apparent from the following description.  
           [0016]    The invention accordingly comprises the features, elements and parts as described in the following description, and the scope of the invention will be indicated in the claims. 
       
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS  
       [0017]    For a fuller understanding of the invention, reference is made to the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:  
         [0018]    [0018]FIG. 1 is an exploded perspective view showing the various component parts of a ring assembly incorporating the inventive bezel setting;  
         [0019]    [0019]FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the inventive bezel setting mounted to a ring and retaining a jewelry stone therewithin.  
         [0020]    [0020]FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view taken along line  3 - 3  of FIG. 2;  
         [0021]    [0021]FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view taken along line  4 - 4  of FIG. 3;  
         [0022]    [0022]FIG. 5 is a cross-sectional view taken along line  5 - 5  of FIG. 3;  
         [0023]    [0023]FIG. 6 is side elevational view in partial cross-section showing the bezel elements of the inventive bezel setting being outwardly adjusted in position in accommodate a larger size stone;  
         [0024]    [0024]FIG. 7 is a side elevational view in partial cross-section showing the bezel elements of the inventive bezel setting being adjusted inwardly in order to accommodate a smaller size stone;  
         [0025]    [0025]FIG. 8 is an enlarged cross-sectional view showing a portion of the inventive bezel setting once soldering has taken place;  
         [0026]    [0026]FIG. 9 is a side elevational view showing the inventive bezel setting retaining a jewelry stone and permanently fixed to the ring;  
         [0027]    [0027]FIG. 10 is an exploded perspective view showing the component parts of a ring assembly incorporating the inventive prong setting;  
         [0028]    [0028]FIG. 11 is a perspective view of the inventive prong setting mounted to a ring and retaining a jewelry stone therewithin;  
         [0029]    [0029]FIG. 12 is a cross-sectional view showing the inventive prong setting mounted to the ring;  
         [0030]    [0030]FIG. 13 is an exploded perspective view showing the component parts of a ring assembly incorporating an alternate embodiment of the inventive prong setting;  
         [0031]    [0031]FIG. 14 is a side elevational view of the alternative embodiment of the inventive prong setting mounted to the ring; and  
         [0032]    [0032]FIG. 15 is a top plan view of the alternative embodiment of the inventive prong setting mounted to the ring. 
     
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT  
       [0033]    Referring first to FIGS.  1 - 5 , a ring assembly generally indicated at  11  and which utilizes the inventive setting  18  is described. Ring assembly  11  consists of a ring or shank  13  made from a precious metal such as gold, silver or platinum, defined by an outer surface  17 , an inner surface  15  and a pair of sidewalls  14 , as is well known in the art. Ring  13  is formed with a cut-out  19  in outer surface  17  in which setting  18  of the invention is received. Cut-out  19  formed in ring  13  is defined by a pair of sloped end walls  16  which lead to a separating protrusion  20 , as shown in FIG. 1. Each of end walls  16  is formed with a radially inwardly extending hole  29  that is used for mounting bezel setting  18  within cut-out  19  of ring  13 , as described below.  
         [0034]    Setting  18  is defined by two facing bezel elements  21  also made from a precious metal. Each bezel element  21  includes an inwardly curved member  25  (see FIG. 4) formed with a slot  26  that is sized to slidably pivot along outside surface  17  of ring  13 . Curved member  25  increases in radial dimension in an upward direction and is formed with an annular running tubular lip  27 . Lip  27  includes an underlying annular groove  28  in which the girdle of a stone mounted in bezel setting  18  is matingly received. Curved member  25  of each of bezel elements  21  leads to a lower axially running supporting bridge element  22  from which a depending pin  23  projects. Depending pin  23  of each of bezel elements  21  is designed for reception within holes  29  formed in cut-out  19  of ring  13 , as best shown in FIGS. 2 and 3.  
         [0035]    As is well known in the art, a jewelry stone, such as a round diamond, is generally indicated at  31  and includes a table portion  33 , a girdle  35  below which is a tapered portion leading to a cutlet  37 . Stone  31  is mounted within bezel elements  21  of bezel setting  18  (see FIGS. 2 and 3) such that girdle  35  is matingly received within grooves  28  of bezel elements  21 , as discussed above, and cutlet  37  is disposed above bridge element  22 .  
         [0036]    In order for setting  18  to accommodate varying size jewelry stones, pins  23 , which are made from metal, of bezel elements  21  are selectively flexible in is both forward and back directions (see FIGS. 6 and 7), such that each bezel element  21  is capable of slidably moving along ring  13  in corresponding forward and back directions. This is in part achievable since each bezel element  21  has a cut-out  26  which is shaped and sized to slidably fit over outside wall  17  of ring  13  at a location adjacent to where cut-out  19  is formed in ring  13 . Accordingly, as shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, a larger size stone  33 A, having a table portion  31 A, girdle  35 A and cutlet  37 A, as well as a smaller size stone  31 B, having a table portion  33 B, a girdle  35 B and a cutlet  37 B, can be engagingly accommodated within inventive bezel setting  18 .  
         [0037]    As shown in FIGS. 8 and 9, once each of bezel elements  21  of setting  18  are slidably adjusted in position for accommodating a selected size jewelry stone, both curved member  25  and pin  23  are soldered or bonded in some other manner along end walls  16  of cut-out  19  formed in ring  13  by means of solder or bonding agent  38 . A finished ring product, as shown in FIG. 9, is then achieved.  
         [0038]    In accordance with the invention, each setting element is capable of being selectively moved back and forth to accommodate different size jewelry stones. Thus, a selected stone may be laid into the bezel setting in order to obtain a more desired fit than in conventional bezel settings. The advantage is that a buyer can see the jewelry stone in the setting as if it were set permanently therewithin, helping the buyer to envision what the jewelry item will look like when delivered to the buyer in permanent condition. In contrast, prior art bezel settings were not capable of having the stone fit correctly therein, and oftentimes the stone tends to float on top or go too low in the setting, which is less than desirable.  
         [0039]    Referring now to FIGS.  10 - 12 , a prong setting is shown substituted for a bezel setting and is defined by two facing bezel elements  121  made from a precious metal. Each bezel element  121  includes a pair of upwardly depending prongs  125  separated by a slot  126  that is sized to slidably pivot along outside surface  17  of ring  13 . Prongs  125  are each formed with a lip or wire portion  127  at the top end thereof. Lip or wire portion  127  of each prong  125  includes an underlying annular groove  128  in which girdle  35  of stone  31  mounted in the prong setting is matingly received. Prongs  125  of each of bezel elements  121  leads to a lower axially running supporting bridge element  122  from which a depending pin  123  projects. Depending pin  123  of each of bezel elements  121  is designed for reception within holes  29  formed in cut-out  19  of ring  13 , as best shown in FIG. 11. As with the first embodiment of the invention, pins  123  of prong elements  121  are selectively flexible in both forward and back directions such that bezel elements  121  are capable of slidably moving along ring  13  in corresponding forward and back directions.  
         [0040]    Referring now to FIGS.  13 - 15 , an alternative embodiment of a ring assembly which utilizes the inventive prong setting is generally indicated at  211 . Ring assembly  211  consists of a ring or shank  213  made from a precious metal such as gold, silver or platinum, and defined by an outer surface  217 , an inner surface  215  and a pair of side walls  214 , as is well known in the art. Ring  213  is formed with a cut-out portion  219  in which setting  218  of the invention is received.  
         [0041]    Setting  218  includes a bottom  223  from which four upwardly depending, angularly directed and equally spaced prongs  225  extend. Each prong  225  is formed with a lip or wire portion  227  at the top end thereof. Lip or wire portion  227  of each prong  225  includes an underlying groove  228  in which girdle  35  of stone  31  mounted in prong setting  218  is matingly received. Each of lip or wire portions  227  has a substantially cylindrical configuration defining an arcuate length A (see FIG. 15) which extends from between about 18° and 27°. Significantly, the sum of the arcuate lengths of each of lip or wire portions  127  of prongs  225  is between about 20% and 30% of the circumference defined by girdle  35  of stone  31 . This feature is found in both the embodiment of FIG. 13 and  15 , as well as the embodiment of FIGS.  10 - 12 .  
         [0042]    In the specific example shown in FIGS.  3 - 5 , setting  218  consists of four prongs  225  having four corresponding lip or wire portions  227 , as described above. Each wire portion  227 , which is disposed at a substantially equal angular distances from the two adjacent wire portions  227 , has an angular length A. The length A of each wire portion  227  is from between about 20% and 30% of one-quarter of the circumference defined by girdle  235 —in other words, each wire portion  227  has an arcuate extent of 18° to 27°. This ensures sufficient contact between each of lip or wire portions  227  to girdle  35 , maintaining a more secure engagement of stone  31  within setting  218 . Preferably, each lip or wire portion  227  has an arcuate length of from between about 1½ and 2½ millimeters, with a width or thickness of B (see FIG. 14) of between about ¾ and 1¼ millimeters.  
         [0043]    As can be appreciated from viewing the embodiment of FIGS.  13 - 15 , as well as the embodiment previously discussed of FIGS.  10 - 12 , lip or wire portion  227  of each of prongs  225  bulges outwardly in a direction away from stone  31 . Significantly, lip or wire portion  227  bulges outwardly past the outside wall of each of prongs  225  in an amount between about 10% and 25% as compared to the width or thickness of each of prongs  225 . This feature provides further reinforcement to the setting  218 , enhancing its holding strength with respect to stone  31 .  
         [0044]    As can be appreciated from viewing FIGS.  11 - 12  and  14 - 15 , the inventive prong setting design, while providing enhanced strength in holding a stone within the setting, still enables a substantial portion of the stone, whether viewed from the side, top or at an angle, to be visible. This is advantageous as compared to a bezel-type setting, as, by way of example, described in the embodiment of FIGS.  1 - 9 .  
         [0045]    It will thus be seen that the objects set forth above, among those made apparent from the preceding description, are efficiently attained, and since certain changes may be made in the invention described herein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.  
         [0046]    It is also to be understood that the following claims are intended to cover all of the generic and specific features of the invention described herein, and all statements of the scope of the invention which, as a matter of language, might be said to fall therebetween.

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