Source: https://www.scribd.com/document/7016372/Group-2-Brakes
Timestamp: 2018-05-24 14:41:39
Document Index: 419605036

Matched Legal Cases: ['ART 2', 'ART 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'ART 2', 'art 3', 'art 3', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 4', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'art 2', 'ARTS 1']

Group 2 Brakes | Brake | Machines
PAGE PART 2-1 . .2-1 GENERAL BRAKESERVICE. . . .,. . . .
PART 2-2 BRAKESYSTEM 2-8
. .2-39
Section Page I Diagnosis and Testing 2-1 Preliminary Tests 2-1 Road Test 2-1 Disc Brake Trouble,Symptoms and Possible Causes. . . . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-2 Drum Brake Trouble Symptoms and Possible Causes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-3 Booster Diagnosis Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-4 2 Common Adjustments and Repairs. . . . . . . . . . .2-4
FLum LEVEL Check the fluid in the master cylinder, and add Rotunda (R-IO3-A (B7AZ-19542-A) heavy-duty brake fluid. AUTOMATIC ADJUSTERS Push the brake pedal down as far as it will go while the car is standing. If the car is equipped with power brakes, the engine should be running while making this test. If the brake pedal travels more than half-way between the released position and the floor, check the automatic adjusters for being inoperative. To check adjuster operation, inspect the brake shoes and the adjuster components for binding or improper installation and follow the procedure described under Brake Shoe Adjustments in Part 2-2, Section 2. Make several reverse stops to ensure uniform adjustment at all wheels. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM If the car is equipped with power brakes, shut off the engine and ex-
haust all vacuum from the booster system before performing this test. Depress the brake pedal and hold it in the applied position. If the pedal gradually falls away under this pressure, the hydraulic system is leaking. Check all tubing, hoses, and connections for leaks. If the brake pedal movement feels spongy, bleed the hydraulic system to remove air from the lines and cylinder. See Hydraulic System Bleeding, Section 2. Also, check for leaks or insufficient fluid. BOOSTER With the transmission in neutral, stop the engine and apply the parking brake. Depress the service brake pedal several times to exhaust all vacuum in the system. Then, depress the pedal and hold it in the applied position. Start the engine. If the vacuum system is operating, the pedal will tend to fall away under foot pressure and less pressure will be required to hold the pedal in the applied position. If no action is felt, the vacuum booster system is not functioning. Follo,.the procedures in the Booster Diagnosis Guide.
For booster removal and installation procedures,refer to Part 2-2, Section 3. For disassembly and assemblyprocedures, refer to Part 2-2 Section4. For cleaning and inspection refer to Part 2-1, Section3.
LOCKED BRAKES Should one of the brakes be locked and the car must be moved, open the brake cylinder bleeder screw long enough to let out a few drops of brake fluid. This bleeding operation will release the brakes, but it will not correct the cause of the trouble.
The car should be road tested only if the brakes win safely stop the car. Apply the brakes at a speed of 25-30 mph to check for the existence of the trouble symptoms listed in Table I, with the exception of those resolved in the preliminary tests and brake chatter. For each of the symtoms encountered, check and eliminate the causes which are also listed in Table 1. To check for brake chatter or surge, apply the brakes lightly from approximately 50 mph.
TABLE 1-Disc Brake Trouble Symptoms and Possible Causes
"C C ~ "Q; > co
Possible Causes of Trouble Symptoms
"iij "C Q) Do
Q) > .~ '" Q) .. .. ...
"'"'~ 40-= C40 .c~ bQ= 0 ~ 40 oX ~ .%;
.. "5 A. "E ~ =
:~ Q DO c :; Q Co.. :0", ...~ ~.. ""0; := "'0 ~~
OJ "C
-:;:. Coo)
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c ~ > ~
~:: ~:.: w' 00 ..cC "-i.~ =... 0";: z~
Cc ~.~
~.m...
"... ~-
bOCC CbO :C.: .c~ ~~
Shoeand Lining Knock-back after violent corneringor rough road travel Piston and Shoeand lining Assembly Properly Not Seatedor Positioned
Air leak or Insufficient Fluid in System or Caliper Loose Wheel Bearing Adjustment
Damaged Worn CaliperPiston Seal or
I Excessive Lateral Run-out Rotor of
IRotor Excessively Out of Parallel
I Frozen or Seized Pistons
I BrakeFluid, Oil or Grease Linings on Shoeand lining WornBelowSpecifications Proportioning ValveMalfunction CaliperOut of Alignmentwith Rotor
LooseCaliperAttachment ~hoe Hold-Down Clips Missingor ImproperlyPositioned OperatorRidingBrakePedal Scoresin the CylinderBore CorrosionBuild-upin the CylinderBore or on the Piston Surface
IBleederScrewStill Open
Lines FromMaster Cylinderto Proportioning Valve Interchanged
GENERALBRAKE SERVICE
TABLE 2-Drum Brake TroubleSymptoms and Possible Causes
TROUBLESYMPTOMS
PossibleCauses of TroubleSymptoms
., .¥ ~ =",
AO"D ~ '" ., .¥ ~ "ia ~ ., ~ Q.
AO > ."'-
>=.. COo
"DCO'" .. ~ 0 -
2"'., =-c =.~'" ~., ~C ~c
.,bO c~ 0':;
=bO -~ c,:;
OJ OJ .c ~'"
~ OJu Co 0-'
CO .. =
"CO"DAO "'1-
AOO ~~
Mechanical Resistance Pedalor Shoes at Damaged Linkage I BrakeLine Restricted leaks or Insufficient Fluid ImproperTire Pressure ImproperlyAdjustedor WornWheelBearing Distortedor ImproperlyAdjustedBrakeShoe FaultyRetractingSpring DrumOut of Round LiningsGlazed Worn or Oil or Greasein Lining loose Carrier Plate loose Lining ScoredDrum Dirt on Drum-Lining Surface FaultyWheelCylinder Dirty BrakeFluid Faulty MasterCylinder Air in HydraulicSystem Self AdjustersNot Operating InsufficientShoe-to-Carrier Plate lubrication Tire TreadWorn PoorLining to DrumContact loose Front Suspension "Threads" left by DrumTurningTool Pull ShoesSideways CrackedDrum Sticking BoosterControlValve
BRAKE BOOSTER TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
BOOSTER INOPERATIVEHARD PEDAL
If the preliminary tests show that the booster is inoperative or if a hard pedal condition still exists after eliminating the causes of Hard Pedal listed in Table 2, the trouble may be caused by vacuum leakage. Disconnect the vacuum line (two lines if equipped with an automatic transmission) at the booster, remove the vacuum manifold and check valve assembly, and look for a sticking or faulty check valve. Check all vacuum connections for leakage or obstruction. Check all hoses for a If the brakes still drag or grab after eliminating the causes listed in Table 1, the condition is probably caused by a sticking valve plunger Remove and disassemble booster. Check the diaphragm being out of locating radii in housing. Check for a sticking or the for the un-
leaking or collapsed condition. Repair or replace parts as necessary. If the foregoing procedure does not eliminate the trouble, remove the booster from the car. Separate the booster body from the end plate, and check the bellows, booster body, and diaphragm assembly for damage that would cause leaks. When assembling, be sure that the diaphragm assembly is properly positioned. Improper location could cause leakage between the vacuum and atmospheric sides of the diaphragm. assembly. Remove and disassemble the booster. Clean, inspect, and replace parts as necessary.
BRAKES DRAG OR GRAB
SELF APPLICA nON OF BRAKES WHEN ENGINE STARTS
seatedatmosphericvalve. Clean,inspect,and replaceparts as necessary. Be sure that the diaphragmis properly located when assembling.
PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT MUSTANG Check the parking brake cables when the brakes are fully released. If the cables are loose, adjust them as follows: 1. Fully release the parking brake by turning the handle counterclockwise and pushing it inward. 2. Pull the parking brake handle outward to the third notch from its normal released position. 3. Raise the car. 4. Turn the locking adjustment nut forward against the equalizer (Fig. 1) until a moderate drag is felt when turning the rear wheels in the direction of forward rotation. S. Release the parking brake, and make sure that the brake shoes return to the fully released position and no drag is felt when turning the rear wheels. COMET -F ALCON-F AIRLANE Check the parking brake cables when the brakes are fully released. If the cables are loose, adjust them as follows: 1. Fully release the parking brake pedal. 2. Depress the parking brake pedal one notch from its normal released position. 3. Raise the car. 4. Loosen the equalizer lock nut and turn the adjusting nut forward against the equalizer until a moderate drag is felt when turning the rear wheels (Fig. 2). Tighten the lock nut. S. Release the parking brake, and make sure that the brake shoes return to the fully released position. POWER BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER PUSH ROD ADJUSTMENT The push rod is provided with an adjustment screw to maintain the correct relationship between the booster control valve plunger and the master cylinder piston. Failure to maintain this relationship will pre» vent the master cylinder piston from completely releasing hydraulic pressure and can cause the brakes to drag, or cause excessive brake pedal travel. To check the adjustment of the screw, fabricate a gauge of the dimension shown in Fig. 3. Then place the gauge against the master cylinder mounting surface of the booster body as shown in Fig. 4 or 5. The push rod screw should be adjusted so that the end of the screw just touches the inner edge of the slot in the gauge. Do not set up side forces on the push rod. Side forces may break the valve plunger. This is an approximate adjustment only. The push rod should not move more than 0.015 inch as it contacts the master cylinder piston. No movement (exact contact) is ideal. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action. Bleed the hydraulic system after it has been properly connected to be sure that all air is expelled from the brake cylinders or disc brake calipers, and lines. The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment. With disc brakes, more pumping of the pedal is required and more frequent checking of the master cylinder may be necessary while bleeding. On a car with disc brakes, remove the front wheels and tires to gain access to the bleeder fitting on the disc brake calipers.
H.1328.A
FIG. 1-Parking Brake Linkage-Mustang
EQJALIZER
H 1405-A
FIG. 2-Parking Brake linkage Adjustment CometFairlane-Falcon
FIG. 4-Push Rod Adjustment
MANUAL BLEEDING Bleed the longest lines first. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with new Rotunda R-IO3-A (B7AZ19542-A) brake fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid which has been drained from the hydraulic sys-Midland-Ross 1. Position a bent 3/8 -inch box wrench on the bleeder fitting on the right rear brake wheel cylinder (Fig. 6). Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the
hi 6tfino
3-Push .
BRAKES sealed on the master cylinder or leakage will occur. 3. Position a 3/s-inch box wrench on the bleeder fitting on the right rear brake wheel cylinder (Fig. 6). Attach a rubber drain tube to the bleeder fitting. The end of the tube should fit snugly around the bleeder fitting. 4. Open the valve on the bleeder tank to admit pressurized brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. 5. Submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid, and loosen the bleeder fitting. 6. When air bubbles cease to appear in the fluid at the submerged end of the drain tube, close the bleeder fitting and remove the tube. 7. Repeat this procedure on the brake cylinder or disc caliper at each wheel in order: left rear, right front, and left front. Refill the master cylinder reservoir after each brake cylinder is bled. 8. When the bleeding operation is completed, close the bleeder tank valve and remove the tank hose from the adapter fitting. 9. Remove the adapter cap, refill the master cylinder reservoir to within 3/8 -inch from the top of the reservoir. Be sure that the diaphragm-type gasket is properly positioned in the reservoir cap, and then install the cap. 10. On a car with disc brakes, pump the brake pedal until the front brake pistons are returned to their nonnal positions and the shoe and lining assembliesare properly seated. 11. Before driving the car, check the operation of the brakes and be sure that a firm pedal is obtained.
FIG. S-Push-Rod AdjustmentBendix
4. When the ftuid is completely free of air bubbles, close the bleeder fitting and remove the drain tube. 5. Repeat this procedure on the brake cylinders or disc calipers at each wheel in order: left rear, right front, and left front. Refill the master cylinder reservoir after each brake cylinder is bled and when the bleeding operation is completed. The fluid level should be within 3/8 inch of the top of the reservoir. The diaphragm-type gasket should be properly positioned in the reservoir cap before the cap is installed. 6. On a car with disc brakes, pump the brake pedal until the front brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and that the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated. 7. Before driving the car, check the operation of the brakes and be sure that a firm pedal is obtained. PRESSURE BLEEDING Bleed the longest lines first. Never use brake fluid which has been drained from the hydraulic system. The bleeder tank should contain enough new heavy-duty brake fluid to complete the bleeding operation, and it should be charged with 10-30 pounds of air pressure. 1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder reservoir cap. 2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, install an adapter cap to the reservoir, and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter cap; An adapter cap can be fabricated by cutting a hole in the center of a reservoir cap and smoldering a fitting at the hole. The adapter cap must be securely seated and completely
FIG. 6-Brake
2. Submerge the free end of the tllbe in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately 3/4turn. 3. Push the brake pedal down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting, then return the pedal to the fully-released position. Repeat this operation until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the tube.
3. With the shoe and lining asDISC BRAKES po semblies installed, insert a feeler 1. Remove the wheel and tire, gauge between the lining and rotor. caliper splash shield, and the shoes If the clearnace is not within 0.002and linings as outlined in Part 2-2, 0.0 1O-inch, check for shoe and lining Section 2. assemblies not being properly seated 2. Make three thickness measureon the caliper bridges, for a piston ments with a micrometer across the pushed back in the cylinder bore, for middle section of the shoe and lina seized piston, or for malfunction ing. Take one reading at each side of a piston seal. and one in the center. If the assemOrdinarily, the clearance should bly has worn to a thickness of be 0.002-0.010 inch. However, if the O.195-inch (shoe and lining together) car was stopped by a brake applicaat anyone of the three measuring lotion just prior to checking the clearcations, replace all (4) shoe and linance, the brakes may drag slightly. ing assemblieson both front wheels. 4. To check rotor runout, first eliminate the wheel bearing end play by tightening the adjusting nut. After tightening the nut make certain that the rotor can still be rotated. 5. Clamp a dial indicator to the caliper housing so that the stylus contacts the rotor at a point approximately 1 inch from the outer edge. Rotate the rotor and take an indicator reading. If the reading exceeds 0.0025 inch total indicator runout, replace the rotor. Do not attempt to refinish a rotor that indicates mnout
in excess of specification. When the runout check is finished be sure to adjust the bearings as outlined in Group 3, in order to prevent bearing failure. 6. Check the rotor for scoring. Minor scores can be removed with a fine emery cloth. If the rotor is excessively scored, replace it. 7. Visually check the caliper. If it is cracked it should be replaced. If leakage or seized pistons is evident, disassembleand repair the caliper as required. 8. If upon disassembly the caliper is found to be distorted or damaged, or if the cylinder bores are scored or excessively worn, replace the assembly. The two halves of the caliper assembly should never be separated. Damage or failure of one requires replacement of both as a unit.
2-7 and replace any that are worn or damaged. 7. Inspect the brake drums and, if necessary, refinish. Refer to Part 2-2, Section 4 for refinishing. BOOSTER UNITS Disassembled views of the brake booster are shown in Figs. 40, 49 and 50, Part 2-2. After disassembly, immerse all metal parts in a suitable solvent. Use-only alcohol on rubber parts or parts containing rubber. After the parts have been thoroughly cleaned and rinsed in cleaning solvent, the metal parts which come in contact with hydraulic brake fluid or rubber parts should be rewashed in clean alcohol before assembly. Use an air hose to blow dirt and cleaning fluid from the recessesand internal passages.When overhauling a power booster, use all parts furnished in the repair kit. Discard all old rubber parts. Inspect all other parts for damage or excessive wear. Replace damaged or excessively worn parts. If the inside of the booster body is rusted or corroded, polish it with steel wool or fine emery cloth.
DRUM BRAKES 1. Remove the wheel from the drum, and remove the drum as outlined in Part 2-2, Section 2. Wash all the parts except the brake shoes in a cleaningfluid and dry with compressed air. 2. Brush all dust from the carrier plate and interior of the brake drum.
3. Inspect the brake shoes for excessive lining wear or shoe damage. If the lining is worn to within 1/32 inch of the rivet heads or if the shoes are damaged, they must be replaced. Replace any lining that has been oil saturated. Replace the lining in axle sets. Prior to replacement of the lining, the drum diameter should be checked to determine if oversize linings must be installed. 4. Check the condition of the brake shoes, retracting springs, and drum for signs of overheating. If the shoes have a slight blue coloring, or if the springs show a change in free length, indicating overheating, replacement of the retracting and hold down springs is necessary. Overheated springs lose their force and could cause the new lining to wear prematurely if they are not replaced. 5. If the car has 30,000 or more miles of operation on the brake linings, or signs of overheating are present when relining brakes, the wheel cylinders should be disassembled and inspected for wear and dirt in the cylinder. The cylinder cups and other parts contained in the overhaul kit should be replaced, thus avoiding future problems. 6. Inspect all other brake parts
Section Page Hydraulic Lines 2-24 Brake Tube Replacement 2-24 Brake Hose Replacement. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-24 3 Removal and Installation 2-24 Master Cylinder-Standard Brakes 2-24 Master Cylinder-Power Brakes .2-24 Booster Unit 2-25 Brake Pedal-Manual Shift Transmission. . . .2-25 Brake Pedal-Automatic Transmission. . . . . .2-27 Parking Brake Control Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . .2-27 Parking Brake Equalizer to Control Cable. . . .2-27 Parking Brake Equalizer to Rear Wheel Cable. 2-30 4 Major Repair Operations 2-31
Section I Description and Operation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic Self-Adjusting Brake System. . . . Booster System-Bendix. ...............
Page . .2-8 . .2-8 . .2-8
2 In-Car Adjustmentsand Repairs. . . . . . . . . .
Booster Parking System-Midland-Ross Brake
.2-11 .2-13 .2-14 .2-16 Brake Shoe Adjustments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-16 Brake Shoes and Adjusting Screw. . . . . . . . . .2-17 .2-17 .2-17 Disc Brake Shoe and Lining Replacement. . .2-18 .2-19 Front Wheel Hub and Rotor Assembly-Disc
Brakes " " Disc Brake Rotor Splash Shield. . . . . . . . . . . Wheel Cylinder Replacement. . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wheel. Proportioning Cylinder Valve Repair
2-19 .2-20 .2-20 .2-21 .2-21
Brake Carrier Plate Replacement. . . . . . . . . ,
.2-24
Brake Drum Refinishing. .. .. .. .. .. . .. .2-31 Brake Shoe Relining 2-31 Master Cylinder 2-31 Disassembly BendixType Booster. . . . . . . . .2-33 of Assembly of Bendix Type Booster .2-34 Disassembly Midland-Ross of Type Booster. . .2-35 Assemblyof Midland-Ross Type Booster. . . . .2-36
Disc brakes are available as optional equipmentfor the front wheels on Mustang 8-cylinder cars. The hydraulic brake system employs duoservosingle anchor, internal expanding and self-adjusting drum brake assemblieson the rear wheelsof cars with disc brakes, and of front and rear wheels of all others. A vacuum booster is available as optional eqipmenton all modelsexcept Mustangs equipped with disc brakes. The mastercylinder convertsphysical force from the brake pedal (and booster if so equipped) into hydraulic pressure againstthe pistons in the calipers (disc brakes) or in the wheel cylinders (drum brakes). The pistons in turn convert hydraulic pressureback into physical force at the brake shoes.
SELF ADJUSTING DRUM BRAKE ASSEMBLIES The self-adjusting brake mechanism consists of a cable, cable guide, adjusting lever, and adjuster spring (Fig. 1 and 2). The cable is hooked over the anchor pin at the top and is connected to the lever at the bottom. The cable is connected to the secondary brake shoe by means of the cable guide. The adjuster spring is hooked to the primary brake shoe and to the lever. The automatic adjuster operates only when the brakes are applied while the car is moving rearward and only when the secondary shoe is free to move toward the drum beyond a predetermined point. With the car moving rearward and the brakes applied, the wraparound action of the shoes following the drum forces the upper end of the primary shoe against the anchor pin. The action of the wheel cylinder moves the upper end of the secondary shoe away from the anchor pin. The movement of the secondary shoe causes the cable to pull the adjusting lever upward and against the end of a tooth on the adjusting screw star-wheel. The upward travel of the lever increases as lining wear increases.When the lever can move upward far enough, it passesover the end of the tooth and engages the tooth. When the brakes are released, the adjusting spring pulls the lever downward causing the star-wheel to turn and expand the shoes. The star-wheel is turned one tooth at a time as the linings pro-
gressivelywear. With the car moving forward and the brakes applied, the secondary shoe is against the anchor pin and the primary shoe is moved toward the drum. Therefore, the adjuster does not operate. The rear brake assembly basicis ally the same as the front brake. The conventional parking brake lever, link, and spring are used in the rear brake. The anchor pins on all brakesare fixed and are non-adjustable. DISC BRAKE ASSEMBLIES
RELATION AND FUNCTION OF COMPONENT PARTS The disc brake is a fixed caliper, opposed piston, non-energized, ventilated disc type, actuated by a hydraulic system (Fig. 3). There is no lateral movement of either the disc (rotor) or the caliper. The caliper assembly consists of two caliper housings bolted together with each half containing two cylinder bores of 115/1a inch diameter. Each cylinder bore contains a piston with an attached molded rubber dust boot to
PART 2-2-BRAKE
SPRING WASHER PARKING BRAKE
LEVER RETAINING CLIP
WHEELCYLINDER PRIMARY SPRING PRIMARY , SHOE
LINK SPRING { SECONDARY SHOE
PARKING BRAKE LEVER ADJUSTING LEVER
'HOLD-DOWN SPRING
PARKING BRAKE .CABLE AND HOUSING
~ -. SPRING -. NUT SCREW FRONT BRAKE H 1323-A
FIG. 1-Self-Adjusting Brake Assemblies-9 Inch Drum
ANCHOR PIN CABLEGUIDE
PARKING BRAKE LEVER RETAINING CLIP
PRIMARY SHOE- TO-ANCHOR , SPRING SECONDARY SHOE
PARKINGBRAKE LINK
RETRACTING ASSIST SPRING
PRIMARYSHOE
SH~OE HOLD-DOWN SPRING CABLE HOOK
, CARRIER PLATE
SECONDARY SHOE-"" TO- ANCHOR SPRING SECONDARY SHOE
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER PIVOT NUT SPRING SOCKET '. ADJUSTINGSCREW
FRONT BRAKE PARKING.
PARKING BRAKE CABLE HOUSING
RETAININGGROMMET AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER SPRING
H1220-A
Adjusting Brake Assemblies-l0 Inch Drum 2. They return the pistons to releasedposition, when hydraulic pressure is released. 3. They maintain the shoes corin rect adjustment at all times (comparable to the automatic adjusters in drum-type brakes). draulically by means of internal passages in the caliper housing and an external transfer tube between the two halves of the caliper assembly. One bleeder screw and fluid inlet fitting is provided on each caliper assembly. The shoe and linin2 assembliesare
sealthe cylinder bore from contamination. (Fig. 4). Square-section rubber piston seals are positioned in grooves the cylinder bores. in The piston sealsperform three important tasks: 1. They provide hydraulic sealing
between cylindersandpistons. the
The cylinders are conneced hy-
Caliper Assembly- ;ectional View
matic adjustment is achieved by the pistons sliding in the seals outward from the cylinder bores. The piston gradually changes its position relative to the seal as the lining wears and, thus, maintains the correct adjustment location at all times. When the brakes are in the unapplied position, there is no hydraulic pressure to the calipers because the fluid source at the master cylinder by-passes the residual check valve. A warning sound feature is incorporated in the design of the brake shoes. Metal tabs on the ends of the shoes create an audible metallic, scraping noise, when the linings become worn enough to allow the tabs to contact the rotor. This metal-tometal contact warns the driver that the shoes need replacing and is not detrimental to the function of the disc brake. A proportioning valve located be-
FIG. 3-Typical Disc Brake
located between parallel machined abutments within the caliper, and are supported radially by tabs on the outer ends of the shoe assemblies (Fig. 35). The shoes slide axially in the caliper abutments by means of the tabs which ride on machined ledges (bridges) when hydraulic pressure is applied to the piston (Fig. 19). A shoe and lining assembly consists of friction material bonded to a metal plate called the shoe. It is replaced as a unit. Brake torque is absorbed by the mating of the shoe end against the caliper abutments (Fig. 35). A splash shield is attached to the top of the caliper to retain the shoe and lining assemblies and reduce contamination. The caliper assembly is mounted to a bracket located between the spindle and rotor splash shield, to the front of the wheel vertical centerline. The cast iron disc is of the ventilated rotor type incorporating forty fins and is staked to, and rotates with, the wheel hub. The outside diameter of the rotor is 11.375 inches and the inside diameter is 7.375 inches. This type of design increases cooling area and permits circulation of air through the rotor resulting in more rapid cooling of the brake. A splash shield bolted to the spindle is used primarily to prevent road contaminants from contacting the inboard rotor and lining surfaces (Fig. 20). The wheel provides protection for the outboard ~urface of the rotor.
OPERATION As the brake pedal is depressed, hydraulic pressurefrom the master cylinder forces the pistonsout of the caliper bores againsttheir respective shoe and lining assemblies.The force of the pistonsagainstthe shoes moves the linings againstboth sides
of the revolving rotor to effect braking action.
During brake application,the rubber seal on each piston stretchesas the piston moves against the shoe (Fig. 5). When the hydraulic pressure against the piston is released, the seal relaxes or rolls back. This roll-back action pulls the piston away from the shoe approximately 0.005 inch to relieve the force of the lining against the rotor and, thereby, provide the required running clearance.Also, inherent rotor runout contributes to the maintenance of running clearance. Auto-
H1370'B
FIG. 5-Function of PistonSeal
tween the master cylinder and the rear brake wheel cylinders provides balanced braking action between the front and the rear brakes under a wide range of braking conditions. (Fig. 21). By regulating the hydraulic pressure applied to the rear wheel cylinders, the valve limits rear braking action when high pressures are required at the front brakes. In this manner, premature rear wheel skid is prevented. The proportioning valve is serviced as an assembly and is never adjusted or overhauled. BOOSTER SYSTEM-BENDIX TYPE The diaphragm type brake booster is a self contained vacuum-hydraulic braking unit mounted on the engine side of the dash panel. The vacuum power chamber consists of a front and rear shell locked together. Within the vacuum chamber are the rubber diaphragm and the integral valve hub and diaphragm plate. The rubber diaphragm fits over the plate, and the outer bead of the diaphragm is locked between the front and rear shells (Fig. 6). The diaphragm return spring is located between the diaphragm plate and the front shell. The valve hub section of the diaphragm plate protrudes from the
site end has a piston head which enters the diaphragm plate. A seal, located in the front shell, seals the opening between the hydraulic push rod and the shell. Engine manifold vacuum is supplied to the booster through a vacuum check valve located in the front shell. Air is admitted through the air filter located at the end of the valve hub. The hydraulic push rod is actuated by pedal pressure assisted by the diaphragm, which derives power from the pressure differential existing between the vacuum on its front side and atmospheric pressure on its rear side. A passage in the diaphragm plate permits vacuum to pass from the front to the rear side of the diaphragm when the vacuum port opens as the brakes are released.
rear shell. A synthetic rubber seal is used between the valve hub and the rear shell. The seal and the valve hub are protected from dirt by a rubber guard connected between the air filter at the end of the hub and a flange on the rear shell. The control valve assembly fits into the hub and is connected to the brake pedal by the valve operating rod. The control valve assembly consists of a plunger, a valve body which supports a single poppet of flexible rubber, and two return springs. When the brake pedal is in the released position the valve return spring holds the valve assembly and operating rod away from the diaphragm plate. In this position, the poppet on the valve body is off the vacuum port seat which is a part of the diaphragm plate. The poppet return spring likewise holds the poppet against the atmospheric port seat which is a part of the plunger. The hydraulic master cylinder which contains all of the components of the conventional master cylinder is bolted to the booster front shell. The hydraulic push rod forms the link between the master cylinder piston and the vacuum power diaphragm assembly. The end of the push rod, .that enters the master cylinder piston, is equipped with a selflocking adjusting screw. The oppoREAR SHELL
RELEASED POSITION With the engine running and the brakes released (Fig. 7), vacuum from the intake manifold is admitted through the check valve to the front (constantvacuum) chamberof the power unit. In the released position (no pressure appliedto the brake pedal), the valve operating rod and valve plunger are held to the rear in the valve hub by the valve return spring to CLOSE the atmospheric
VACUUM PORT OPEN
ATMOSPHERIC SOURCE
ATMOSPHERIC PORT CLOSED
H132S-A
FIG. 7-Booster in Released Positi ,n-Bendix- Type
port and OPEN the vacuum port. With the valve in this position, the rear (control vacuum) chamber is also open to vacuum through the porting in the diaphragm and valve hug assembly. The diaphragm is then balanced or suspended in vacuum, since vacuum is present on both sides of the power diaphragm. With the power diaphragm balanced in vacuum, the diaphragm return spring holds the diaphragm and hydraulic push rod in the fully released position. With the hydraulic push rod in this position, the hydraulic compensating port in the hydraulic master cylinder is OPEN. The open port permits brake fluid to either return from the brake system to the fluid reservoir or enter the brake system from the fluid reservoir to compensate for any gain or loss in fluid volume. APPLIED POSITION When the brakes are applied (Fig. 8), the valve operating rod and valve plunger move forward in the valve hub section of the diaphragm plate to compress the valve return spring and force the poppet against the vacuum valve seat in the diaphragm plate to CLOSE the vacuum port. Any additional movement of the valve operating rod in the applied direction moves the valve plunger away from the poppet valve to OPEN the atmospheric port and admit atmosphere through the air cleaner and passages in the diaphragm plate to the rear side of the power chamber. With vacuum present on the front side of the diaphragm and valve housing and atmospheric pressure present on the rear side of the diaphragm, a force is developed to move the vacuum power diaphragm assembly,hydraulic
push rod and master cylinder piston forward to close the compensating port and force hydraulic fluid under pressure through the residual check valve and brake tubes into the brake wheel cylinders. As hydraulic pressure is developed in the brake master cylinder, a counter force (to the rear) acting through the hydraulic push rod, sets up a reaction force against the power diaphragm assembly and valve plunger through the rubber reaction disc (located at the end of the hydraulic push rod). The rubber reaction disc acts similar to a column of fluid to distribute the pressure between the vacuum power diaphragm assembly and the valve plunger in proportion to their respective contact areas. The pressure acting against the valve plunger and valve hub assembly to close off the the valve plunger slightly to the rear in relation to the diaphragm and valve hub assembly to close off the atmospheric port. The driver is thus assured a feel of the brake, since part of the counter force reacts through the valve plunger, valve operating rod, and pedal linkage against the driver's foot. This reaction force is in direct proportion to the hydraulic pressure developed within the brake system. HOLDING POSITION During brake application, the reaction force which opposes the
VACUUM PORT CLOSED
ATMOSPHERIC SOURCE , !
ATMOSPHERIC PORT OPEN
H1326-A
FIG. 8-Booster in Applied Position-Bendix-Type
force applied by the driver, tends to close the atmospheric port. When both atmospheric and vacuum ports are CLOSED, the booster is said to be in the holding position (Fig. 9).
and vacuum chamber, it is possible to obtain several power assisted brake applications with the engine shut off. This arrangement makes a vacuum reservoir unnecessary. Wither vacuum from the forward side of the diaphragm or air from the bellows (atmospheric chamber) can be connected to the rear side of the diaphragm through porting in the control valve hub and the plunger assembly.
power brake application may be made from the vacuum in the booster.With the engineoff and no vacuum in the power system, the brakescan be applied in the conven-
FIG. 9-Booster in Holding Position-Bendix- Type
With both valves closed, any degree of brake application attained will be held until either the atmospheric port is reopened by an increase in pedal pressure to further increase the brake application or by a decrease in pedal pressure to reopen the vacuum port to decrease the brake application. Whenever the pressure applied to the brake pedal is held constant for a moment, the valve returns to its holding position. However, upon reaching the fully applied position the force applied to the brake pedal overrules the reaction force. In this position the valve plunger and atmospheric valve seat are held away from the valve poppet to admit maximum atmospheric pressure to the rear chamber. With the front chamber open to manifold vacuum, full power application is attained which is referred to as the run-out of the power unit. Any increase in hydraulic pressure beyond this point must be supplied by physical effort of the driver. NO POWER CONDITION It should be noted that in case of engine failure and consequent loss of engine vaCUllm, at least one full
tional manner by applying more physicaleffort to the brakepedal.
BOOSTER SYSTEMMIDLAND-ROSS The optional power brake booster is installed on the engine side of the dash panel and is connected to the brake pedal through a lever assembly and push rod link. The booster consists of a vacuum chamber, atmospheric valve, control valve plunger assembly, diaphragm, and an atmospheric chamber (Figs. 10, II and 12). Atmospheric pressure is present at all times in the atmospheric chamber at the front side of the atmospheric valve. The air intake to the atmospheric chamber is protected by an air filter. The atmospheric chamber is separated from the vacuum chamber by the bellows assembly within the vacuum chamber. Vacuum is present at all times in that area of the vacuum chamber forward of the diaphragm. Vacuum is supplied through a hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum manifold and check valve on the booster body. With this integral check valve
APPLYING POSITION As the brake pedal is depressed, the valve operating rod and valve plunger assembly move forward compressing the plunger return spring (Fig. 10). The initial movement of the plunger closesthe porting from the vacuum chamber preventing further evacuation of the area back of the diaphragm. Further movementof the plunger forces the atmosphericvalve off its seat so that atmosphericpressurefrom the bellows can enter the hub porting that leads to the rear side of the diaphragm. With vacuumon the front side of the diaphragm and atmospheric pressureon the back side of the diaphragm, a force is developed to move the diaphragm,push rod and master cylinder piston forward to close the compensating port and force hydraulic fluid under pressure through the residual pressurecheck valve and brake tubes to the wheel brakes. As hydraulic pressureis developed in the hydraulic system,a reaction counter-force acts against the reaction lever and ring assembly. This reaction lever and ring assembly is designed transmit the reacto tion forces back through the actuating control valve assemblyto the brake pedal and provide the driver with a resistancethat is in proportion to the brake hydraulic apply forces. This is the meansof providing the proper driver feel to the power brake unit.
HOLDING POSmON When the forward motion of the brake pedal is stopped and held, the valve operating rod ceasesto move the control valve plunger forward. However, the unbalanced forces of atmospheric pressure and vacuum on each side of the diaphragm will continue to move the outer sleeve of the control valve plunger forward keeping the vacuum porting closed. At the same time, the reaction force
~.::::::~:::
and the hydraulic fluid, to return the master cylinder piston and push rod to the released positioned. With the piston and push rod in the releasedposition, the hydraulic compensating port in the mastercylinder is open. The open port permits fluid to either return from the brake systemto the fluid reservoir, or enter the brake systemfrom the reservoir. PARKING BRAKES-MUSTANG An independent hand-operated parking brake control actuates the rear wheel brake shoes through a cable linkage. The operating cable is routed from the parking brake control assembly to the equalizer lever which is attachedto the equalizer assembly. The rear brake cables connectthe equalizerassembly the to parking brake lever at eachrear secondary shoeas shownin Figs. 1 and 2. When the handleis pulled the primary and secondary brake shoesare forced againstthe rear brake drums. The handle is held in the applied position by the engagementof a spring loaded pawl with a ratchet. Turning the handlecounterclockwise disengages pawl from the ratchet the to releasethe brakes.
PARKING BRAKE COMET, FAIRLANE AND FALCON An independent foot-operated parking brake control actuates the rear wheel brake shoes through a cable linkage. The operating cable is routed from the parking brake control assembly to the equalizer. The rear brake cables connect the equalizer assembly to the parking brake lever at each rear secondary shoe (Fig. 1). When the pedal is depressed the secondary brake shoes are forced against the rear brake drums. The pedal is held in the applied position by the engagement of a spring-loaded pawl with a ratchet in the control assembly (Fig. 29). The parking brake control assembly is mounted to the cowl inner side panel. The pedal pivots on a stationary pedal mount. A spring-loaded pawl and a release lever are assembled to the pedal. A ratchet is assembled to the upper end of the pedal. The pawl contacts the rachet at such an angle that the rachet teeth will slide over the pawl as the pedal is depressed; however, when
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H1357.A
FIG. 10-Booster in Applied Position-Midland-Ross
acting through the reaction ring and lever assembly will tend to move the atmospheric valve to the closed position (Fig. 11). When these combined forces balance, the porting to the vacuum supply will remain closed and the atmospheric valve will cut off any further passage of atmospheric pressure to ,the area behind the diaphragm. Therefore, the power assist force acting on the master cylinder piston will stabilize and the hydraulic force applying the brakes will be maintained at a constant level. RELEASED POSITION When the pedal pressure is released from the valve operating rod and plunger assembly, the plunger return spring moves the plunger away from the atmospheric valve allowing the valve to seat against the hub (Fie. 12). This seatin.2 of the valve closes off the bellows chamber from the hub porting that connects to the rear side of the diaphragm. At the same time, the rearward movement of the plunger opens the porting from the vacuum chamber and draws out the air from the rear side of the power diaphragm. With vacuum on both sides of the diaphragm, the assist force against the master cylinder push rod is eliminated. Also, a pressure differential is created by the presence of vacuum on the rear (small diameter) side of the valve hub and atmospheric (bellows) pressure on the front (large diameter) side. This pressure differential moves the valve hub and, with it, the valve plunger and diaphragm assembly back to the released position. This releasing action permits the brake shoe retracting springs, acting through the wheel cylinder pistons
FIG. 11-Booster
in Holding Position-Midland-Ross brakes in the applied position. When the manual release lever is pulled back, (Fig. 29), the cam ac-
the applying motion stops and the pedal starts to release, the pawl engages the ratchet and thus locks the
tion of the lever on the pawl cam pin will disengage pawl from the the ratchet to releasethe brakes.
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"" ATMOSPHERIC PORT CLOSED
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H1359.A
FIG. 1 2-Booster in Released Position-Midland-Ross
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENTS The hydraulic service brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been relined, replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation. The manual adjustment is performed with the drums removed, using the tool and the procedure detailed below. In case a brake drum cannot be removed in the normal manner, an access knock-out slug is provided in the brake carrier plate. Knock the slug out with a punch and 'then release the brake shoe as detailed under Brake Drum-Removal. Re-
move the drum and knock-out slug. (Install a standard adjusting hole cover in the carrier plate when assembling). When adjusting the rear brake shoes, check the parking brake cablesfor proper adjustment.Make sure that the equalizer operates freely. To adjust the brake shoes: 1. Using Rotunda Tool HRE 8650, (Fig. 13) determinethe inside diameter of the drum braking surface. 2. Reversethe tool as shown in Fig. 14 and adjust the brake shoe diameter to fit the gauge.Hold the automatic adjustinglever out of engagementwhile rotating the adjust-
FIG. 13-Measuring Drum
ing screw, to prevent burring the screw slots. Make sure the adjusting screw rotates freely. If neces-
hole in the carrier plate, and disengage the adjusting lever from the adjusting screw. While holding the adjusting lever away from the adjusting screw, back off the adjusting screw with the brake adjusting tool (Fig. 15). Be very careful not to burr, chip or damage the notches in the adjusting screw; otherwise, the self-adjusting mechanism will not function properly. If the adjustment was backed off, make sure that the adjuster lever is properly seated in the shoe web.
FIG. 14-Measuring Shoes
sary, lubricate the adjusting screw threadswith a thin, uniform coating of CIAZ-19590-B Grease. 3. Rotate Tool HRE 8650 around the brake shoesto be sure of the setting. 4. Apply a small quantity of high temperature grease to the points where the shoescontact the carrier plate, being careful not to get the lubricant on the linings. 5. Install the wheel on the drum and tighten the mounting nuts to specification. 6. Complete the adjustment by applying the brakes several times while backing the car. 7. After the brake shoes have been properly adjusted, check the operation of the brakes by making several stops while operating in a forward direction.
FIG. 15-Backing Off Brake Adjustment
4. Pull the hub and drum assembly off the wheel spindle. INSTALLATION 1. If the drum is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new drum with carburetor degreaser. Install new bearings and grease retainer. Soak the new grease retainer in light engine oil at least 30 minutes before installation if retainer is of a leather composition. Rubber seals need not be treated with oil before installation. Pack the wheel bearings, install the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup, and install the new grease retainer. See Part 3-5, Section 4 for procedure. If the original drum is being installed, make sure that the grease in the hub is clean and adequate. 2. Adjust the brakes and install the drum assembly as outlined under "Brake Shoe Adjustments" in this section. 3. Install the outer wheel bearing, washer and adjusting nut. 4. Adjust the wheel bearing as outlined in Part 3-5, Section 2, then install the cotter pin grease cap. Install the wheel and hub cap.
INSTALLATION 1. Removethe protective coating from a new drum with carburetor degreaser. 2. Adjust the brakes as outlined under Brake Shoe Adjustments in this section. 3. Place the drum over the brake assemblyand into position. Install the three Tinnermannuts and tighten them securely.Install the wheel on the axle shaft flange studs against the drum, and tighten the attaching nuts to specifications.
BRAKE SHOES AND ADJUSTING SCREW REMOVAL 1. With the wheel and drum removed, install a clamp over the ends of the wheel cylinder as shown in Fig. 16.
Tool-2035.N or 2086.L
1. Raise the car until the wheel and tire clear the floor. Remove the wheel cover or hub cap, and remove the wheel and tire from the drum. 2. Remove the drum. If the drum will not come off, knock the access slug out of the brake carrier plate, using a punch. Insert a narrow screwdriver through the slot and disengage the adjusting lever from the adjusting screw. While holding the adjusting lever away from the screw, back off the adjusting screw with the brake adjusting tool (Fig. 15). Be very careful not to burr, chip, or damage the notches in the adjusting screws; otherwise the self. adjusting mechanism will not func. tion properly. 3. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and flat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly.
--r;;-;;I~w:ii9-
Hl146-B
16-Retracting
Removal- Typical REAR BRAKE DRUM
REMOVAL 1. Raise the car so that the wheel is clear of the floor. 2. Remove the hub cap and wheel. Remove the three Tinnerman nuts and remove the brake drum. If the drum will not come off, knock the excess slug out of the brake carrier plate, using a punch. Insert a narrow screwdriver through the 2. Remove the brake retracting springs using Tool 2035-N or 2086-L (Fig. 16). 3. Disconnect the brake shoe holddown springs and remove the brake shoe assemblies along with the complete automatic adjustment mechanism. 4. Disassemble the brake shoes. 5. On rear brakes, remove the parking brake link and spring from
the brake assemblies.Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever. 6. After removing the rear brake shoesdisassemble parking brake the lever from the secondary shoeby removing the retaining clip and spring washer (Fig. 1 and 2).
INSTALLATION 10 Before installing the rear brake shoes, assemble the parking brake lever to the secondary shoe and secure it with the spring washer and retaining clip. 20 Apply a light coating of hightemperature grease at the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate. 30 Position the brake shoes on the backing plate and secure them with the hold down springs. On the rear brake, install the parking brake link and spring. Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever. Install the cable guide on the secondary shoe web with the flanged hole properly fitted into the hole in the secondary shoe web. Install the secondary shoe to anchor spring (Figs. 1 and 2). So Place the cable eye over the anchor pin with the crimped side toward the backing plate. Install the primary shoe to anchor spring with the tool shown in Fig. 17.
BRAKES action of the adjuster by pulling the section of the cable between the cable guide and the adjusting lever toward the secondary shoe web far enough to lift the lever past a tooth on the adjusting screw wheel. The lever should snap into position behind the next tooth, and release of the cable should cause the adjuster spring to return the lever to its original position. This return action of the lever will turn the adjusting screw one tooth. If pulling the cable does not produce the action described, or if the lever action is sluggish instead of positive and sharp, check the position of the lever on the adjusting screw toothed wheel. With the brake in a vertical position (anchor at the top), the lever should contact the adjusting wheel 3/16inch (plus or minus 1/32 inch) above the centerline of the screw. If the contact point is below the centerline, the lever will not lock on the teeth in the adjusting screw wheel, and the screw will not be turned as the lever is actuated by the cable. To determine the cause of this condition: a. Check the cable end fittings. The cable should completely fill or extend slightly beyond the crimped section of the fittings. If it does not meet this specification, possible damage is indicated and the cable assembly should be replaced. b. Check the cable length. The cable should measure 83/16inches on 9 inch brakes or 101/8 inches on 10 inch brakes from the end of the cable anchor to the end of the cable hook. c. Check the cable guide for damage. The cable groove should be parallel to the shoe web, and the body of the guide should lie flat against the web. Replace the guide if it shows damage. d. Check the pivot hook on the lever. The hook surfaces should be square with the body of the lever for proper pivoting. Replace the lever if the hook shows damage. e. See that the adjusting screw socket is properly seated in the notch in the shoe web.
DISC BRAKE SHOE AND LINING REPLACEMENT After any brake service work, pump the brake pedal to obtain a firm pedal before moving the car. Riding the brake pedal (common on left foot applications) should be avoided when driving the car.
7. Apply a small amount of hightemperature grease to the threads and the socket end of the adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw into the adjusting pivot nut to the limit of the threads and then back off 1/2 turn. Interchanging the brake shoe adjusting screw assemblies from one side of the car to the other would cause the brake shoes to retract rather than expand each time the automatic adjusting mechanism operated. To prevent accidental installation of the adjusting screw on the wrong side of the car the socket end of the adjusting screw is stamped with an R or L (Fig. 18). The adADJUSTING LEVER
WASHER "
ADJUSTINGSCREW
"IDENTIFICATION LINES
Hl143.B
FIG. 1 8-Adjusting Screwand LeverIdentification
justing pivot nuts can be distinguished by the number of grooves machined around the body of the nut. Two grooves indicate a righthand nut: one groove indicates a lefthand nut. 8. Place the adjusting socket on the screw and install this assembly between the shoe ends with the adjusting screw toothed wheel nearest the secondary shoe. 9. Hook the cable hook into the hole in the adjusting lever. The adjusting levers are stamped with an R or L to indicate their installation on a right or left brake assembly (Fig. 18). 10. Position the hooked end of the adjuster spring completely into the large hole in the primary shoe web. The last coil of the spring should be at the edge of the hole. Connect the loop end of the spring to the adjuster lever hole (Figs. 1 and 2). 11. Pull the adjuster lever, cable and automatic adjuster spring down and toward the rear to engage the pivot hook in the large hole in the secondary shoe web. 12. After installation, check the
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H1147-B
FIG. 17 -Retracting Spring Installation-Typical
6. Thread the cable around the cable guide groove. It is imperative that the cable be positioned in this groove and not between the guide and the shoe web. Be certain that the cable eye is not cocked or binding on the anchor pin when installed. All parts should be flat on the anchor pin. Remove the brake cylinder clamp.
REMOVAL 1. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub and rotor assembly. Be careful to avoid damageor interference with the caliper splash shield,bleederscrew fitting or transfer tube. 2. Remove the two bolts that attach the caliper splashshield, and remove the shield (Fig. 3). 3. To facilitate removal and installation of the shoe and lining assemblies,the pistons must be pushed into their bores. Apply a steadyinward pressureagainst each shoe and lining assemblytoward its respectivecaliper housing on each side of the rotor (Fig. 4). Maintain the pressurefor at least a minute. If the pistons will not go in easily, force them in with water pump pliers. 4. Grasp the metal flange on the outer end of the shoewith two pairs of pliers and pull the shoeout of the caliper (Fig. 19).
hose should be checked for correct routing.
assemblyon each side of the rotor so that the lining facesthe rotor. Be surethat the tabs on the shoeflanges seat fully againstthe caliper bridges (Fig. 19). 2. Install the caliper splashshield and securethe shield to the caliper with two retaining bolts (Fig 3). 3. Pump the brake pedal several times until a firm pedal is obtained and the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated.
4. Install the wheel and tire on the hub and rotor assembly.
4. Bleed the brake systemas outlined in Section2-1. Check the master cylinder fluid level, and the specifiedbrake fluid as required. s. Pump the brake pedal several times to actuatethe piston sealsand to position the shoe and lining assemblies. 6. Install the wheeland tire. 7. Road test the car.
FRONT WHEEL HUB AND ROTOR ASSEMBLY-DISC BRAKES REMOVAL 1. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub and rotor assembly (Fig. 20). Be careful to avoid damage or interference with the caliper splash shield, bleeder screw fitting or transfer tube. 2. Remove the caliper assembly from the spindle and the rotor. If the caliper does not require servicing, it is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose or remove the caliper from the car. Position the caliper out of the way, and support it with a wire to avoid damaging the caliper or stretching the hose. Insert a clean cardboard spacer between the linings to prevent the pistons from coming out of the cylinder bores while the caliper is removed. Handle the rotor and caliper assemblies in such a way as to avoid deformation of the rotor and nicking or scratching of the brake linings. 3. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and fiat washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly. 4. Remove the hub and rotor assembly from the spindle. INSTALLATION 1. If the rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor with carblAretor degreaser. Pack a new set of bearings with specified grease, and install the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly bet}Veen the lips of a new grease retainer and install the retainer (Fig. 20). If the original rotor is being installed, make sure that the grease in the hub is clean and adequate, that the inner bearing and grease retainer are lubricated and in good condition, and that the rotor braking surfaces are clean.
5. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir with specified brake fluid as required. 6. Roadtestthe car. It shouldnot be necessary bleed to the system after a shoe and lining replacement.
ASSEMBLY CALIPER
1. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub and rotor assembly. Be careful to avoid damage or interference with the caliper splash shield, bleeder screw fitting or transfer tube. 2. Disconnect the front brake flexible hose from the brake tube at the bracket on the frame (Fig. 24). 3. Remove the two bolts that attach the caliper to the mounting bracket. Take care to avoid loosening the bridge bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together. 4. Lift the caliper assembly off the rotor. INST ALLA nON 1. Position the caliper assembly on the rotor, and mate the mounting bolt holes in the caliper with those in the spindle. It may be necessary to push the caliper pistons into the cylinder bores to obtain clearance between the shoe and lining assemblies and the rotor. The shoe and lining assemblies should be seated properly on the bridges. 2. Install the caliper to mounting bracket attaching bolts and torque to specification. Check to insure that the rotor runs squarely and centrally between the two halves of the caliper. There should be approximately 0.090-0.120 inch clearance between the caliper and the rotor outside diameter (Fig. 4). 3. Connect the front wheel brake flexible hose to the brake tube at the bracket on the frame (Fig. 24). The
FIG. 19-Removing DiscBrake Shoeand lining AssemblyTypical
CLEANING AND INSPECTION When the shoe and lining assemblies are replaced, remove the dust boots from the pistons. Check the condition of the boots, and inspect each piston surface for damage or corrosion. Thoroughly clean each dust boot and surrounding area before installing. INSTALLATION 1. Position a new shoe and lining
FIG. 20-Disc Brake Disassembled
2. Install the hub and rotor assembly on the spindle.
3. Lubricate and install the outer wheel bearing,washerand adjusting nut. 4. Adjust the wheel bearings to specification, and then install the nut lock, cotter pin, and greasecap. The wheel bearing adjustmentis especiallyimportant with disc brakes. 5. Mount the caliper assembly on the mounting bracketand torque the two mounting bolts to specification. If necessary, push the caliper pistons into the cylinder bores to obtain clearancebetweenthe shoeand lining assemblies the rotor. Be sure and that the shoe and lining assemblies are seatedon the bridges.Check the flexible hose for correct routing. 6. Install the wheel and tire on the hub and rotor assembly.
DISC BRAKE ROTOR SPLASH SHIELD REMOVAL 1. Remove the caliper and the hub and rotor assembly as outlined under Removal in the foregoing procedure. 2. Remove the four nuts that
attach the splash
INSTALLATION 1. Install the gasket. 2. If the shield is bent, straighten it out before installation. Position the shield to the mounting bracket, install the attachingnuts, and torque to specification (Fig. 20). 3. Install the hub and rotor assembly and the caliper as outlined under Installation in the foregoing procedure.
PROPORTIONING VALVE The proportioning valve is serviced as an assembly and is never adjusted or overhauled. REMOVAL 1. Disconnect
BOL T;'PROPORTIONING
and remove the - proportioning valve brake tube (Fig. 23). 2. Disconnect the front-to-rear brake tube from the proportioning valve. 3. Working underneath the left fender, remove the bolt that attaches the porportioning valve to the fender apron and remove the valve through the access hole (Fig. 21).
Master cylinder - to
MOUNTINGTANG
FENDER APRONHI36S-A
FIG. 21-Removing or Installing Proportioning Valve
apron so that the mounting tang extends through the hole in the fender apron as shown in Fig. 21. Install the attaching bolt. 2. Connectthe front-to-rear brake tube to the valve (Fig. 23).
shieldto the mount-
ing bracket and remove the shield (Fig. 20). 3. Remove the gasket.
INST ALLA TION 1. From underneath the left fender, install the proportioning valve through the accesshole in the fender apron. Position the valve to the
3. Position and connect the master cylinder-to-proportioning valve brake tube. 4. Bleedthe brake system.
WHEEL CYLINDER REPAIR It is not necessary to remove the wheel cylinder from the backing plate to disassemble,inspect, or hone and overhaul it. Removal is necessary only when the cylinder is damaged or scored beyond repair. DISASSEMBLY 1. With the wheel in a raised position, remove the wheel and the drum. 2. Place a clamp over the ends of the brake cylinder as shown in Fig. 16.
2. Placea clamp over the endsof the wheel cylinder as shown in Fig. 16.
3. Remove the brake shoe assemblies, following procedures outlined in this section. 4. Disconnect the brake line from the brake cylinder. On a car with a vacuum brake booster, be sure the engine is stopped and there is no vacuum in the booster system before disconnecting the hydraulic lines. To disconnect the hose at a front cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that connects the opposite end of the hose to the brake tube at a bracket on the frame. Remove the horseshoetype retaining clip from the hose and bracket, disengage the hose from the bracket, then unscrew the entire hose assembly from the front wheel cylinder. At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tube fitting that connects the tube to the cylinder. Do not pull the metal tube away from the cylinder. Pulling the tube out of the cylinder connection will bend the metal tube and make installation difficult. The tube will separate from the cylinder when the cylinder is removed from the carrier plate. 5. Remove the wheel cylinder attaching bolts and lock washers and remove the cylinder.
the internal parts require replacing, all should be replaced. 3. Inspect the cylinder bore for score marks or rust. If either condition is present, the cylinder bore must be honed. However, the cylinder should not be honed more than 0.003 inch beyond its original diameter. A baffle in the front wheel cylinder of the 6-cylinder Falcon and Mustang models prevents honing; therefore, the cylinder must be replaced. 4. Check the bleeder hole to be sure that it is open.
3. Removethe brake shoe assemblies following procedures outlined in this section. 4. The 6-cylinder Falcon and Mustang models are not provided with links. Removethe rubber boots from the ends of the piston. On 8-cylinder models and on all Comets and Fairlanes, remove the links and rubber bootsfrom the ends of the piston. Remove the pistons, cups, and return spring from the cylinder bore (Fig. 22). 5. Remove the bleeder screw from the cylinder. INSPECTION 1. Wash all parts in clean denatured alcohol. If alcohol is not available, use specifiedbrake fluid. Dry with compressed air. 2. Check all the internal parts for excessive wear or damage.If any of
ASSEMBLY 1. Apply a coating of heavy-duty brake fluid to all internal parts. 2. Thread the bleeder screw into the cylinder and tighten securely. 3. Insert the return spring, cups, and pistonsinto their respective positions in the cylinder bore (Fig. 22). Place a boot over each end of the cylinder. On 8-cylinder model Mustangs and Falcons and all Comets and Fairlanes, install the links in the endsof the brake cylinders. 4. Install the shoeand adjusterassemblies,then adjust the shoes as outlined in this section. 5. Install the brake drum and wheel, then bleed the brakesas outlined in this section.
REMOVAL 1. With the wheel in a raisedposition, remove the wheel and the drum.
BLEEDER SCRE~
I =--,,'
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CUP BOOT/
H1197-B
FIG. 22-Front and RearWheel Cylinders
INSTALLATION Wipe the end(s) of the hydraulic line to remove any foreign matter before making connections. 1. To install a front cylinder: a. Position the cylinder in place against the carrier plate. Install the two lock washers and attachingbolts. Torque them to specifications. b. Install a new copper gasket over the hose fitting. Thread the hose assemblyinto the cylinder and tighten it securely. c. Engagethe oppositeend of the hose to the bracket on the frame, install the horseshoe-type retaining clip, and connect the brake tube to the hose with the tube fitting nut. Tighten the nut to specifications. 2. To install a rear cylinder: a. Positionthe rear wheel cylinder in placeagainstthe carrier plate. Enter the tubing into the cylinder, and start the tube fitting nut into the threadsof the cylinder. b. Securethe cylinder to the carrier plate with the attaching bolts and lock washers. c. Tighten the tube fitting nut to specifications.
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GJ C C ~ .5 ~ ..:. GJ E 0
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3. Install the links in the ends of the wheel cylinder (8-cylinder models only on Falcon and Mustang and all Comet and Fairlane models). 4. Install the brake shoes as detailed in this section. 5. Adjust the brakesas detailedin Part 2-2, Section 2. 6. Install the brake drums and wheels. 7. Bleed the brakesas detailed in Part 2-1, Section 2. BRAKE CARRIER PLATE REPLACEMENT REMOVAL 1. Remove the wheel and brake drum. Disconnect the brake line from the brake cylinder. 1. Removethe brake shoeand adjuster assemblies the wheel cyland inder as outlined in this section.On the rear wheels,disconnect parkthe ing brake lever from the cable. 3. If the rear carrier plate is being replaced,rotate the axle shaft so that the hole in the axle shaft flange lines up with the carrier plate retaining nuts and remove the nuts. Pull the axle shaft assemblyout of the housing with tool 4235-C and a slide hammer (Part 4-2), then remove the carrier plate. If the front carrier plate is being replaced,remove the bolts and nuts that secure the plate to the front wheel spindle and remove the plate. INSTALLADON 1. Position a new rear carrier plate on the attaching bolts in the
axle housing flange. Insert the axle shaft into the housing so that the splines engage the differential side gear with the bearingretainer sliding onto the retaining bolts and against the carrier plate. Install the attaching nuts through the accesshole in the axle shaft flange. Position a new front carrier plate to the wheel spindle and install the attaching bolts and nuts. 2. Install the wheel cylinder and connectthe brake line as outlined in this section. 3. Install the brake shoe and adjuster assemblies outlined in this as section.On a rear brake, connectthe parking brake cable to the lever. 4. Adjust the brake shoes(Section
brake tubing to fit underbody or rear axle contours, be careful not to kink or crack the tube. All brake tubing should be flared properly to provide good leak-proof connections. Clean the brake tubing by flushing with clean denatured alcohol, before installation. When connecting a tube to a hose, tube connector, disc caliper, or brake cylinder, tighten the tube fitting nut to specified torque with Milbar tool 1112-144 or equivalent. BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT A flexible brake hose should be replaced if it shows signs of softening, cracking, or other damage. When installing a new front brake hose, position the hose to avoid contact with other chassis parts. Place a new copper gasket over the hose fitting and screw the hose assembly into the front brake cylinder. Engage the opposite end of the hose to the bracket on the frame. Install the horseshoe-type retaining clip, and connect the tube to the hose with the tube fitting nut. A rear brake hose should be installed so that it does not touch the muffler outlet pipe or shock absorber. Since the rear brake hose is integral with the rear brake tube connector, the entire hose and connector is replaced as an assembly. Mount the connector to the rear axle housing with the retaining bolt (axle vent) and lock washer. Connect the two rear wheel brake tubes to the connector.
5. Install the brake drum and wheel and bleed the brake systemas outlined in Part 2-1, Section2.
HYDRAULIC LINES Steel tubing is used throughout the brake system with the exception of the flexible hoses at the front wheels and at the rear axle housing brake tube connector (Figs. 23 and 24). Always bleed the entire hydraulic system after any hose or line replacement. BRAKE TUBE REPLACEMENT If a section of the brake tubing becomes damaged, the entire section should be replaced with tubing of the same type, size, shape and length. Copper tubing should not be used in a hydraulic system. When bending
MASTER CYLINDERSTANDARD BRAKES REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the rubber boot from the rear end of the mastercylinder in the passenger compartment.
2. Disconnect the brake line(s) from the master cylinder (Fig. 27)
3. Remove the bolts that secure the mastercylinder to the dashpanel and lift the cylinder out and away from the push rod. Removethe rubber boot from the push rod. INSTALLATION 1. With the rubber boot on the push rod, guide the master cylinder over the end of the push rod, and positionthe cylinder againstthe dash panel.
2. Install and torque the mounting bolts to specification. 3. Connect the brake line(s) to the master cylinder fitting, but leave the brakeline fitting(s)loose. 4. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with heavy-dutyRotunda brake fluid to within 3/8inch of the top. Install and tighten the filler cap. 5. Bleed the mastercylinder to let air escapefrom the cylinder at the brake line fitting(s). Then tighten the fitting(s). 6. Remove the filler cap and fill the reservoir to the level specified. Be sure that the diaphragmtype gasket is properly seatedin the cap. Install the cap and wipe off any fluid from the cylinder. 7. Connectthe rubber boot to the master cylinder.
MASTER CYLINDERPOWER BRAKES REMOVAL 1. Disconnectthe hydraulic line{s) from the mastercylinder. 2. Removethe two nuts and lock washersthat attach the master cylinder to the booser. 3. Remove the master cylinder from the vacuum booster. INSTALLATION 1. Beforeinstalling the mastercylinder, check the distance from the outer end of the push rod to the master cylinder mounting surfaceat at the end of the vacuum cylinder (Fig. 4 or S, Part 2-1). If the push rod dimension is not correct, see Master Cylinder Push Rod Adjust-
ment Part 2-1, Section 2. 2. Position the master cylinder over the push rod onto the two studs that are integral with the booster body. 3. Install, but do not tighten the attaching nuts andlock washers. 4. Connect the hydraulic line(s) to the mastercylinder. S. Tighten the two master cylinder attaching nuts. 6. Tighten all hydraulic line fittings. 7. Bleedthe brake system. Fill the mastercylinder to 3/8inch from the top of the filler opening.Be surethat the diaphragmtype gasketis properly seatedin the reservoir cap, and install the cap.
BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL 1. Working inside the car below the instrument panel, disconnect the stop light switch wires at the connector. 2. Remove the hairpin type retainer. Slide the stop light switch off the brake pedal pin just far enough for the switch outer hole to clear the pin, and then lower the switch away from the pin. Slide the master cylinder push rod link and the nylon washers and bushing off from the brake pedal pin (Fig. 25 or 26). 3. Working in the engine compartment, loosen the hose clamp, and disconnect the vacuum hose from the booster at the check valve. 4. Remove the two master cylinder attaching nuts and pull the master cylinder from the booster, without disconnecting the hydraulic lines. Secure the master cylinder out of the way. S. Remove the four mounting bracket-to-dash panel attaching bolts. 6. Remove the booster and bracket assembly from the dash panel, sliding the push rod link out from the engine side of the dash panel. INSTALLATION 1. Mount the booster and bracket assembly to the dash panel by sliding the push rod link in through the hole in the dash panel. Install the four attaching bolts. 2. Position the brake master cylinder to the booster assembly and install the attaching nuts. 3. Connect the vacuum hose to the booster at the check valve, and tighten the hose clamp.
",,',.~..
FIG. 2S-Vacuum BoosterInstallation-Comet-Fairlane-Falcon
--~:::::::::::;;:;;
376977.52 4 REQD.
31498-58 2 REQD.
STOPLIGHT SWITCH /'
~ ~~ I 't}J/l\
2B129 REQD. 2
BUSHING-2A309
VACUUM LlNE-2AO47 ,.\
2AO40
~RETAINE}'~ ~ 379897oS2R
"IISH '_'0"
-"'--PEDAL-2457
BOOSTERASSY.-200S
H1403.A
FIG.. 26-Booster
Installation-Mustang parts to the pin with the hairpin type retainer. 5. Connect the stop light switch wires to the connector, and install the wires in the retaining clip. BRAKE PEDAL-MANUAL SHIFT TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
1. On a Falcon, Comet or Fairlane, remove the clutch pedal assist spring, (Fig. 27).
4. Working from inside the car, install the inner nylon washer, the master cylinder push rod link, and the bushing on the brake pedal pin. Position the switch so that it straddles the push rod with the switch slot on the pedal pin and the switch outer hole just clearing the pin. Slide the switch completely onto the pin, and install the outer nylon washer as shown in Fig. 25 or 26. Secure these
H1361-B
FIG. 27-Master Cylinder,Brake Pedaland RelatedParts-Falcon,Fairlane, Cometand Mustang
On a Mustang, remove the pedal bumper and bracket assembly from the pedal support bracket to relieve the tension on the assist spring, and then remove the spring. 2. Disconnect the clutch pedal-toequalizer rod at the clutch pedal by removing the hairpin type retainer and bushing. 3. Disconnect the stop light switch wires at the connector. 4. Remove the switch retainer, and slide the stop light switch off the brake pedal pin just far enough for the switch outer hole to clear the pin. Then lower the switch away from the pin. 5. Slide the master cylinder push rod and the nylon washers and bushing off from the brake pedal pin (Fig. 27). 6. Remove the self-locking pin and washer from the clutch and brake pedal shaft, then remove the clutch pedal and shaft assembly, the brake pedal assembly, and the bushings from the pedal support bracket (Fig. 27). INSTALLATION 1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 engine oil to the bushings and locate all bushings in their proper places on the clutch and brake pedal assemblies. -2. Position the brake pedal to the support bracket, then install the clutch pedal and shaft assembly through the support bracket and brake pedal assembly. Install the spring washer and retainer. (Fig. 27). 3. Install the split bushing in the spring groove of the clutch pedal. Hook the clutch assist spring to the groove and to the spring retainer. 4. Connect the clutch pedal to equalizer rod to the clutch pedal assembly with the bushing and the hairpin retainer. Apply SAE 10 engine oil to the bushing. 5. Install the inner nylon washer, the master cylinder push rod, and the bushing on the brake pedal pin. Position the switch so that it straddles the push rod with the switch slot on the pedal pin and the switch outer hole just clearing the pin. Slide the switch completely onto the pin, and install the outer nylon washer as shown in Fig. 27. Secure these parts to the pin with the self-locking pin. 6. Connect the stop light switch wires to the connector, and install the wires to the retaining clip.
INSTALLATION 1. Disengage locking rod and the connectthe ball end of the cable to the slot on the control assembly. 2. Assemble pulley to the conthe trol handle and the clevis pin. 3. Position the assemblyagainst the dashpaneland instrumentpanel. Secure the assemblyto the instrument panel with the two screws. 4. Install the insulator bracket with the attachingscrews (Fig.. 28). 5. Working from under the left front fender, install the two lock washers and attaching nuts.
PEDALTRANSMISSION
REMOVAL 1. Disconnect the stop light switch wires at the connector. 2. Remove the self-locking pin and slide the stop light switch off the brake pedal pin just far enough for the switch outer hole to clear the pin. Then lower the switch away from the pin. Slide the master cylinder push rod and the nylon washers and bushing off from the brake pedal pin (Fig. 27). 3. Remove the self-locking pin and washer from the brake pedal shaft, then remove the shaft, the brake pedal assembly and the bushings from the pedal support bracket. INSTALLATION 1. Apply a coating of SAEIO engine oil to the bushings and locate all the bushings in their proper places on the pedal assembly and pedal support bracket, (Fig. 27). 2. Position the brake pedal assembly to the support bracket, then install the pedal shaft through the support bracket and brake pedal assembly. Install the washer and self-locking pin. 3. Install the inner nylon washer, the master cylinder push rod, and the bushing on the brake pedal pin. Position the switch so that it straddles the push rod with the switch slot on the pedal pin, and the switch outer hole just clearing the pin. Slide the switch completely onto the pin, and install the outer nylon washer as shown in Fig 27. Secure these parts to the pin with the self-locking pin. 4. Connect the stop light switch wires to the connector, and install the wires in the retaining clip. PARKING BRAKE HANDLEMUSTANG REMOVAL 1. Remove the two screws that hold the handle bracket on the instrument panel. Remove the attaching screws and the insulator bracket (Fig. 28). 2. Remove the two nuts and lock washers that secure the control to the dash panel. 3. Remove the clevis pin that secures the pulley to the control handle assembly. 4. Disengage the locking rod and remove the ball on the cable from the slot in the control assembly.
ASSEMBL Y-FAIRLANE,
REMOVAL 1. Make sure the parking brake is completely released. Remove the 3 screws (Fig. 29) that attach the control assembly to the cowl inner side panel. 2. Pull the control away from the cowl panel and remove the hairpin lock retaining the parking brake cable housing to the control assembly. 3. Disconnect the ball-end of the parking brake cable from the control and remove the control assembly. INSTALLATION 1. Connect the ball-end of the parking brake cable to the control. 2. Install the hair-pin cable housing retainer. 3. Position the control assembly to the cowl side panel and install the attaching screws. Torque to 12-20 it-lb.
TO HAN DLE CABLEMUSTANG REMOVAL 1. Remove the attaching screws and insulator-bracket from the dash panel (Fig. 28). 2. Remove the parking brake handle assembly and disengage the cable from the handle as outlined in this section. 3. Pull the cable down through the hole in the dash panel. 4. Remove the hairpin retainer, and disengage the cable and housing from the bracket on the crossmember. S. Disconnect the cable ball from the equalizer lever, and remove the cable from the car.
11404-8
FIG. 28-Parking Brake Linkage-Mustang
INSTALLATION 1. Connect the cable lower ball to the equalizer lever (Fig. 28). 2. Engage the cable and housing to the bracket on the crossmember and secure with the hairpin retainer. 3. Push the upper end of the cable up through the hole in the dash panel. 4. Connect the cable upper ball to the parking brake handle, and install the handle assembly as outlined in this section. 5. Install the insulator bracket to the dash panel and secure with the two attaching screws. PARKING BRAKE EQUALIZER TO PEDAL CABLE-FAIRLANE, COMET, FALCON REMOVAL 1. Remove the two nuts that attach the cable to the equalizer and remove the equalizer and spring (Fig. 29). 2. Remove the hair pin retainer holding the cable housing to the frame bracket at the equalizer. 3. Working from inside the car, remove the hair pin retainer holding the cable housing to the parking brake control assembly. 4. Disconnect the ball end of the cable from the parking brake control arm. 5. Remove the left front cowl side trim panel, roll back the floor mat and pull the cable assembly from the floor. INSTALLATION 1. Position the cable housing through the opening in the floor and pull the grommet into position from under the car. 2. Install the ball-end of the cable in the parking brake control. 3. Install the hair pin retainer to lock the cable housing in position on the parking brake control. 4. Working from under the car, position the cable housing in the frame bracket and install the retainer. 5. Position the spring and equalizer on the cable and install the adjusting nut. 6. Apply the parking brake one notch from the released position. 7. Tighten the adjusting nut until a light to moderate drag is felt when the rear wheels are rotated. 8. Tighten the check nut securely. 9. Fully release the parking brake. No drag should be felt when the wheels are rotated.
BRAKES FAIRLANE AND COMET STA nON WAGONS AND FALCON PASSENGER CAR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 1. Generally follow the procedure given above, omitting separation of the cables, since the hand brake cable supplied for these models is in one piece. Removal and installation of both rear wheels, tires and drums will also be required. MUST ANG REMOVAL 1. Remove the adjusting lock nut and cable yoke from the equalizer rod (Fig. 28), along with the rear cable assembly. 2. Remove the hairpin retainers and disengage the cable rear housings from the brackets on the underbody. 3. If an 8-cylinder model, remove the single bolt and clamp retaining the cable housing to the underbody immediately behind the cable housing bracket. 4. Remove the two bolts and clamp securing the cable housing to the underbody on all models. 5. Remove the wheels and tires and the rear brake drums as outlined in Section 2. 6. Disconnect the rear ends of the cable from the parking brake levers on the brake shoes. Disengage the cable housing retaining grommets from the carrier plates and withdraw the cable ends and housings from the inboard sides of the carrier plates. 7. Slide the cable housings out of the main side brackets and remove the cable assembly from the car. INSTALLATION 1. Insert both cable ends and housings through the holes in the carrier plates from the inboard side. 2. Connect the cable ends to the parking brake levers on the brake shoes and engage the cable housing retaining grommets to the carrier plate. 3. Position the cable housings in the main side brackets and install the hairpin retainers. 4. Install the front clamp with one bolt, if an 8-cylinder model. 5. Install the rear clamp with two bolts. 6. Position the cable yoke and cable on the equalizer rod and install the adjusting locknut. 7. Adjust the parking brake as directed in Part 2-1, Section 2.
10. Position the floor mat and install the cowl side trim panel. PARKING BRAKE EQUALIZER TO REAR WHEEL CABLE A single cable passing through the equalizer and cable guides connects both parking brake assemblies on Comet and Fairlane station wagons and on Falcon and Mustang passenger cars. Separate cables for each parking brake are used on Comet and Fairlane passengercars. FAIRLANE AND COMET PASSENGER CARS REMOVAL 1. Remove the equalizer lock nut and adjusting nut, equalizer and spring. 2. With the cables slack, disconnect the ball-ends from the connector (Fig. 29). 3. Remove the cable from the guide, if required. 4. Remove the hair pin lock retaining the cable housing to the side rail bracket. 5. Remove the wheel and tire and the rear brake drum as outlined in Section 2. 6. Disconnect the rear end of the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe. Disengage the cable housing retaining grommet from the carrier plate and withdraw the cable and housing from the inboard side of the carrier plate. 7. Slide the cable and housing out of the side rail bracket. INSTALLATION 1. Insert the rear end of the cable through the side rail bracket and pull the cable and housing into position. 2. Insert the rear end of the cable and housing through the hole in the carrier plate from the inboard side. 3. Connect the cable to the parking brake lever on the brake shoe, and install the cable housing retaining the grommet in the carrier plate. 4. Position the cable housing in the side rail bracket and install the hair pin type retainer. S. Position the cable in the guide and install the connector, thus hooking the two cables together. 6. Insert the cable into the equalizer and install the equalizer, spring, adjusting nut and lock nut to the front, parking brake control, cable. 7. Adjust the parking brake as directed in Part 2-1, Section 2.
BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING The 6-cylinder Falcon and Mustang models are equipped with 9inch brake drums. All other models are equippedwith 10-inch drums. Minor scores a brake drum can on be removedwith a fine emery cloth. A drum that is excessively scoredor shows a total indicator runout of over 0.007 inch should be turned down. Removeonly enoughstock to eliminatethe scoresand true up the drum. The refinisheddiameter must not exceed0.060 inch oversize. If the drum diameter is less than 0.030 inch oversize (9.030 inches 6-cylinder Falcon or Mustang, or 10.030incheson other modelsafter refinishing, standard lining may be installed. If the drum diameter is more than 9.030 inches or 10.030 inches, oversizelinings must be installed. After a drum is turned down, wipe the refinished surface with a cloth soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If one drum is turned down, the opposite drum on the same axle should also be cut down to the same size.
BRAKE SHOE RELINING Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32inch of any rivet or have been saturated with grease or oil should be replaced. Failure to replace worn linings will result in a scored drum. When it is necessary to replace linings, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the opposite side of the car. Inspect brake shoes for distortion, cracks, or looseness. If this condition exists, the shoe should be discarded. Do not repair a defective brake shoe. 1. Wash the brake shoes thoroughly in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs or rough spots from the shoes. 2. Check the inside diameter of the brake drum. If the diameter is less than 9.030 or 10.030 inches, standard lining may be installed. If the diameter is 9.030 to 9.060 or 10.030 to 10.060 inches, oversize lining should be installed. 3. Position the new lining on the shoe. Starting in the center, insert and secure the rivets working alternately towards each end. Install all parts supplied in the kit. Genuine replacement linings are ground and no further grinding is required.
4. Check the clearance between the shoe and lining. The lining must seat tightly against the shoe with not more than .005 inch clearance between any two rivets.
MASTER CYLINDEREXCEPTCARS WITH DISC BRAKES DISASSEMBLY 1. Clean the outsideof the cylinder, and remove the filler cap and gasket.Pour out any brake fluid that may remain in the cylinder or reservoir.
2. Remove the snap ring from the bore at the rear of the cylinder with tool 33621 (Fig. 32). 3. When disassembling a master cylinder used with the standard brake system, remove the piston assembly, cup, spring, check valve, and valve seat from the cylinder bore (Fig. 30). When disassembling a master cylinder used with a booster, remove the piston assembly, cup, and the spring and check valve assembly from the cylinder bore. Remove the O-ring from the piston (Fig. 31).
PRIMARY CUP SPRING FITTING
)VALVE SEAT
""'T ,.~,
~'-"'".;;;Jr" ,.
-~ LOCKWASHER
VALVE H 1360-A
30-Master Cylinder With Standard Brake System
H1279.B
FIG. 31-Master Cylinder With Booster
ASSEMBLY 1. Dip all parts except the master cylinder body in clean Rotunda 103-A heavy-duty brake fluid. 2. Install the brake line fitting(s) on the cylinder and tighten them securely. 3. When assembling a master cylinder used with the standard brake system, install the valve seat, check valve, spring, cup, and piston assembly in the cylinder bore (Fig. 30). When assembling a master cylinder used with a booster, install the O-ring on the piston. Install the spring and check valve assembly, cup, and piston in the cylinder bore (Fig. 31). 4. Install the snap-ring in the back of the bore (Fig. 32).
,DIAPHRAGM
DISASSEMBLY Do not remove the bridge bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together. The two caliper housings are shown separated in Fig. 35 for illustration purposes only. 1. Remove the caliper assembly from the car as outlined in Section 2. 2. Remove the two retaining bolts and the caliper splash shield Fig. 35.
3. Remove the two shoe and lining assemblies.
FIG. 33-Master Cylinder Used With Disc Brakes-Disassembled
the snap ring in the groove in the cylinder bore. 5. Install a new diaphragm (only if the old one is defective) in the cover, and attach the cover to the cylinder with the spring clips. MASTER CYLINDER CLEANING AND INSPECTION 1. Clean all master cylinder parts in clean denatured alcohol, and inspect the parts for wear or damage, replacing them as required. When using a master cylinder repair kit, instaU aU of the parts supplied. 2. Check the ports and vents in the master cylinder to make sure that all are open and free of foreign matter. Check the condition of the diaphragm type gasket. 3. A leaf-type valve is riveted to the front end of the piston in a master cylinder used with the standard brake system (Fig. 30). If this valve is loose or has moved so that the piston ports are open, replace the piston. When inspecting a master cylinder used with a booster, check the ports in the piston to make sure that they are open and free of foreign material (Fig. 31). 4. Inspect the cylinder walls for scores or rust, and recondition them if necessary.Hone the cylinder walls no more than necessary (0.003 inch maximum). Oversize pistons and cups are not available for excessively honed cylinders. S. Remove any burrs or loose metal that may have resulted from the honing operation, and clean the cylinder with denatured alcohol.
4. Remove the flexible brake hose from the caliper. 5. Remove the external transfer tube. 6. Remove the four dust boots from the caliper housings and piston grooves. 7. Clamp the caliper in a vise and secure it by the mounting flanges on the inboard housing (Fig. 34).
H1291-A
FIG. 32-Removing Snap Ring From Master Cylinder-Typical
MASTER CYLINDERWITH DISC BRAKES DISASSEMBLY 1. Press in against the piston while removing the snap ring retainer, and then remove the piston assembly, cup, spring, residual check valve and seat. (Fig. 33). 2. Remove secondary cup from the piston. Remove the cover by releasing the spring clips on the sides, and remove the diaphragm. ASSEMBLY 1. Clamp the master cylinder housing in a vise. Dip the hydraulic cylinder parts in brake fluid and assemble the check valve seal, residual check valve, and piston return spring in the bore of the cylinder in the order shown in Fig. 33. 2. If the secondary piston cup was removed from the piston, dip the cup in brake fluid and assemble the cup in the groove of the piston with the lip of the cup as shown. 3. Place the primary cup on the end of the piston assembly, and guide it into the cylinder bore. 4. Press in against the piston to compress the spring while seating
FIG. 34-Removing Installing Pistons
8. Remove the four pistons from the cylinder bores with the special tool shown in Fig. 34. To prevent cocking with consequent damage to the piston or bore, rotate the piston with the tool while pulling it outward at the same time. Be careful to avoid scratching or damaging the outside diameter surface or dust boot retaining groove of the piston. Such damage causes poor sealing. If a piston is so completely seized in the cylinder bore that it can not be removed with the special tool, force the cylinder out of the bore by positioning two screwdrivers in the piston dust boot retaining groove and prying outward. To prevent
cocking, tap the end of the piston lightly around the circumference with a hammer, while the prying force is being applied. Be careful to avoid damaging the dust boot retainer in the caliper housing (Fig. 35). If this method of removal is used, the pistons must be replaced. If the caliper dust boot retainer or retaining groove is damaged or scratched, pry the retainer out of the caliper housing with screwdrivers. 9. Remove the rubber piston seals from the grooves in the cylinder bores by carefully inserting the point of a small knife or other pointed instrument under the seal and raising the seal up far enough to be pulled out with the fingers. CLEANING AND INSPECTION Clean all metal parts with alcohol or a suitable solvent (Fig. 35). Use clean, dry compressed air to clean out and dry the grooves and passageways. Be sure that the caliper bore and component parts are completely free of any foreign material. Check the cylinder bores and pistons for damage or excessive wear. Replace the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the chrome plating is worn
piston seal and the installation of the seal. If the piston still will not go in with bore in good condition and the piston sealproperly installed, use the tool shown in Fig. 34. Rotate the piston with the tool while pushing it inward at the sametime. 5. Carefully install four new dust bootson the caliperhousings pisand tons. Be sure that each boot is fully seated the grooveof its respective in caliper housing and piston (Fig. 35). Do not use the old dust boots. 6. Install the external transfer tube. 7. Install the flexiblebrakehoseto the caliper. 8. Install the caliper assembly on the spindle,and install the shoeand lining assembliesand the splash shield as outlined in Section2. 9. Checkthe caliper for fluid leaks under maximum pedal pressures. Do not move the car until a firm brake pedal is obtained. DISASSEMBLYOF BOOSTERBENDIX TYPE 1. Removethe speednuts that attach the mounting plate to the rear shell and remove the plate. On a Mustang,removethe retaining nuts and lockwashers remove and the mounting bracketsfrom the rear shell (Fig. 40.) 2. Pull the hydraulic push rod and front seal (Fig. 36) from the front shell. 3. Scribean index mark across the front and rear shells. 4. Place the booster in a vise as shownin Fig. 37. Pressdownward on the rear shell and at the same time, turn it counterclockwise with a flat bar to releaseit from the front shell. Releasethe pressureon the rear shell slowly to prevent the dia-
off. Check the caliper dust boot retainer for wear or damage. ASSEMBLY 1. Clamp the caliper in a vise and secure it by the mounting flange on the inboard housing. 2. If a new caliper dust boot retainer is to be installed, thoroughly clean the contact area on the caliper housing and apply Loctite Sealant, Grade H to the retainer surface that seats in the housing. Install the retainer in the caliper housing. 3. Apply a film of clean brake fluid to new caliper piston seals and install them in the grooves of the cylinder bore. The seal should be positioned at one area in the groove and gently worked around. Do not use the old seals. 4. Coat the outside diameter of the pistons with brake fluid and install them in the cylinder bores so that the open end of the piston and the boot retaining groove face out of the bore. To avoid cocking, locate the piston squarely in the bore and apply a slow, steady pressure. If a piston will not easily go all the way into the bore, remove it and thoroughly inspect the cylinder bore, the
CALIPER ABUTMENTS
H1334-A
H1367.A
35-(aliper
Assembly-Disassembled
FIG. 36-Removing Front Seal and PushRod-Bendix Booster
FIG. 37-Separating Booster
Shells-Bendix Booster
phragm plate return spring from flying out.
H1336-A
FIG. 38-Removing -Bendix Booster
5. Separate two shellsand rethe move the return spring. 6. Withdraw the diaphragm plate and diaphragmfrom the rear shell. Remove the dust shield. 7. Remove the diaphragm from the diaphragmplate asshownin Fig. 38.
8. Pry the filter retainer off the diaphragm plate being careful not to chip or damage the plate.
FIG. 39-Removing or Installing Valve Retainer-Bendix Booster shell with a punch or screwdriver. (Fig. 40). Discard the seal. 13. Working from the inside of the front shell, cut the bead off the check valve grommet. Remove the check valve. ASSEMBLY OF BOOSTERBENDIX-TYPE 1. Place the rear shell on two
9. Hold the diaphragm plate so that the valve retainer is facing downward.Pressthe valve push rod inward to releasethe tension on the retainer and allow it to drop out of the plate (Fig. 39). 10. Withdraw the valve and rod from the plate.
11. Press the reaction disc out of the diaphragm plate.
12. Drive the seal out of the rear
'C~E
;NAP PI"""'"
H1345- B
40-Vacuum
Booster Disassembled-Booster
5. Disconnectthe lever assembly from the end plate bracketsby removing the retainer clip and pivot pin. 6. Disconnect the push rod link from the lever assemblyby removing the retainer and connectingpin. 7. Removethe attachingnuts, and disassemble the brackets from the end plate. 8. Removethe rubber boot from the valveoperatingrod.
SEPARATION OF MAJOR COMPONENTS 1. Scribe a line across the booster body, clamp band, and end plate. 2. Remove the clamp band screw and nut, and separate the clamp band, booster body, and end plate (Fig. 49). 3. Push the bellows assembly into the vacuum chamber (Fig. 43), and separate the bellows, control valve, diaphragm assembly, and end plate from the booster body.
BOOSTER BOD1
FIG. 41-lnstalling Rear Shell
Seal-Bendix Booster
wood blocks as shown in Fig. 41. Press a new seal, plastic side first, into the recess on the inside of the shell to a depth of 1/4inch. 2. Dip a new check valve grommet (Fig. 40) in alcohol and install it in the front shell making sure that the beveled edge is toward the inside. Make sure that the grommet is seated. Dip the shoulder of the check valve in alcohol and install it in the grommet. Press the check valve into the grommet until the flange contacts the grommet. 3. Apply silicone grease to the outer surface of the diaphragm plate hub of the diaphragm plate. Push surfaces of the valve. 4. Insert the valve and rod into the hub of the diaphragm plate. Push the rod inward until the retaining groove is aligned with the slot, and then slide the retainer into the groove (Fig. 39). 5. Tuck the filter into place in the plate hub. Press the filter retainer onto the hub being careful not to chip or damage the plastic. (Fig. 38). 6. Install the diaphragm on the diaphragm plate, making sure that the diaphragm lip is tucked in all around the recess between the hub and the plate (Fig. 38). 7. Place the rear shell in a vise. Apply silicone lubricant generously to the top outer flange of the shell. Apply silicone grease to the seal in the rear shell. 8. Carefully guide the valve rod and diaphragm plate hub through the seal in the rear shell. 9. Center the large end of the return spring on the diaphragm plate. 10. Align the index mark on the front shell with the one on the rear shell. Place a flat bar on the front
shell and compress the spring until the tangs on the rear shell contact the notched sections of the front shell, and then rotate it clockwise to lock it in place. 11. Apply lubricant sparingly to the stem of the hydraulic push rod keeping it away from the adjusting screw area. Apply silicone grease liberally to the piston area of the push rod and to the reaction disc. 12. Center the reaction disc on the push rod piston. Guide the disc and push rod into the base of the diaphragm plate, and press the rod inward until the disc is bottomed (Fig. 42).
FIG. 42-lnstalling Reaction Disc, Push Rod and Front Seal -Bendix Booster
13. Press a new front seal into the front shell until it bottoms in the recess (Fig. 42). 14. Install a new dust seal over the push rod and onto the rear shell. 15. On a Comet, position the mounting plate on the rear shell and secure it in place with speed nuts. On a Mustang, position the two mounting brackets on the rear shell studs, and install the retaining nuts and lock washers (Fig. 40). DISASSEMBLY OF BOOSTERMIDLAND-ROSS TYPE
H126S-A
FIG. 43-Bellows to Booster Body Engagement-Midland-Ross 4. Push the valve, tail stock, and diaphragmassemblyout of the end plate. 5. Removethe rear seal from the end plate (Fig. 44). DISASSEMBLYOF BELLOWS, PUSH ROD AND VALVE ASSEMBLY FROM DIAPHRAGM 1. Removethe large bellowsclamp and separate the bellows, bellows support rings, and bellowsprotector from the diaphragm and valve assembly (Fig. 45). 2. Removethe two support rings and the protector from the bellows. 3. Removethe push rod assembly and the reactionlever assembly from the control hub (Fig. 46).
OF EXTERNAL PARTS 1. Removethe two attachingnuts and lockwashers,and separatethe master cylinder from the booster body. 2. Removethe air filter assembly from the boosterbody. Separate the cover and retainer, and remove the air filter (Fig. 49). 3. Remove the vacuum manifold and check valve assemblyand the rubber grommet from the booster body (Fig. 49). 4. Disconnectthe valve operating rod from the lever assemblyby removing the retainer clip and connectin2 pin (Fig. 49).
'\ !",
:"c, Co'
H1363-A
FIG. 44-Removing or Installing Rear Seal to End Plate
-Midland-Ross
rc;-
PUSH ROO ASSEMBLY
H1396..A
FIG. 46-Push Rod Assembly, Reaction Lever and Control Hub-Midland-Ross
FIG. 45-Removing or Installing the Bellows Assembly
4. Removethe two plastic guides from the push rod. Removethe reaction cone retainer and the cone from the push rod (Fig. 46). 5. Removethe valve operatingrod from the plunger. To remove, hold the rod firmly and force the plunger off the rod breaking the plastic retainer. If the plunger is to be used again, remove all the broken pieces of the plastic retainer from the groove in the plunger. 6. Turn the control hub and plunger assemblyclockwise to separate it from the diaphragm, and then removethe tail stock and a-ring from the diaphragm(Fig. 47). 7. Removethe retainer that holds the plunger to the control hub (Fig. 48). Separatethe control hub and plunger assembly.It may be necessary to me the burr from the pro-
H1398.A
FIG. 48-Removing or Installing Plunger to Control Hub Retainer-Midland-Ross FIG. 47-Removing or Installing Control Hub and Plunger Assembly-Midland-Ross
truding end of the plunger before it can be separated from the control hub. DISASSEMBLY OF CONTROL VALVE PLUNGER 1. Compress the spring towards the rubber valve and remove the spring retainer. 2. Remove the spring, valve plate,
rubber valve, a-ring, and fiber washer from the plunger(Fig. 49).
ASSEMBLY OF BOOSTERMIDLAND-ROSS TYPE
1. Assemble the rubber valve, valve plate, spring, O-ring, and fiber washer on the plunger. 2. Compress the spring towards the rubber valve and assemble the spring retainer on the plunger with the flange towards the spring (Fig. 49).
'(Q~ )
REAR SEAL \
VALVE OPERATING ROD
PLASTICRETAINER
h ~// / ~
\ LEVER
END PLATE FIG.
H1362.B
49-Booster
Unit Disassembled-Midland-Ross
tainer, and two plastic push rod guides on the push rod. Install the push rod assembly in the valve hub so that the push rod indexes in the valve plunger. 7. Install the two bellows support rings and bellows protector on the bellows. The support rings are positioned in the two larger folds of the bellows and the protector in the smaller fold. 8. Assemble the bellows on the control hub so that the lip of the bellows indexes in the groove on the hub. Secure the bellows to the hub by assembling the large bellows clamp on the diaphragm end of the bellows approximately 1/32inch from the end of the bellows (Fig. 45). ASSEMBLY OF MAJOR COMPONENTS 1. Assemble the rear seal in the end plate (Fig. 44) and position the diaphragm, the control valve components, and the bellows as an assembly into the end plate. 2. Install the rubber grommet in the booster body with the large diameter side to be outside of the booster. Force the vacuum manifold and check valve assembly through the grommet (Fig. 49). 3. Assemble the booster body to the end plate. Make sure that the lip of the diaphragm is evenly positioned on tbe retaining radius of the end plate and the booster body. Pull the front lip of the bellows through the booster body and position it evenly around the hole in the booster body (Fig. 46). 4. Install the clamp band over the lips of the booster body and end plate. Align the scribe lines, compress the assembly together, and secure with the clamp and band bolt. Tap the clamp band with a fibre hammer around its circumference as the bolt is being tightened. Tighten to 15 inch-pounds of torque. INSTALLATION OF EXTERNAL
ASSEMBLYOF VALVE ASSEMBLY,PUSH ROD, AND BELLOWSTO DIAPHRAGM
1. Assemble the control valve plunger assembly into the control hub so that the round holes in the rubber valve index with the raised projections on the hub, and the flat on the valve plate indexes with the flat projection on the hub (Fig. 50). Compress the valve spring, and install the retainer in the plunger groove to secure the control valve plunger to the control hub (Fig. 48). 2. Assemble the tail stock over the plunger with the flat on the tail stock indexing with the flat on the hub. 3. Assemble the O-ring over the tail stock and into the "V" groove formed by the tail stock and hub. 4. Assemble the tail stock and the plunger and control hub assembly to the diaphragm, and turn the hub counterclockwise to secure these parts together (Fig. 47). S. Install the lever assembly in the control hub with the rubber protrusions toward the hub (Fig. 46). 6. Assemble the reaction cone, re-
1. Install the rubber boot to the valve operating rod and assemble the plastic retainer to the end of the rod. Insert the rod into the plunger so that the retainer engages the groove in the plunger. Install the lip of the boot in the groove of the rear seal (Fill. 49).
GROUP 2 - BRAKES
2. Connect the valve operating rod to the upper end of the lever, and connectthe push rod link to the center of the lever with the connecting pins and clips. 3. Position the mounting brackets to the end plate and install the retaining nuts. 4. Connect the lever assemblyto the lower end of the mountingbrackets with the pivot pin and clip. S. Position the air filter in the plastic filter cover and then snapthe cover and filter on the metal hub with the filter between. 6. Assemblethe cover, filter, and hub assemblyto the booster body with the metal hub against the boosterbody. 7. Assemble the master cylinder to the booster body. Torque the master cylinder mounting nuts to specification.
RAISED PRDJECTIDNS MATCHING HOLES
HUB""
H1399-A
FIG. 50-Assembling Valve Plunger to Hub-Midland-Ross
MODELS POSITION Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Primary Secondary
2.25 x 7.75 2.25 x 10.0 2.25 x 8.35 2.25 x 10.75 2.25 x 8.35 2.25 x 10.75 2.50 x 8.35 2.50 x 10.75
Falcon Sedan& Hardtop.--SixCylinder
1.5 x 7.75 1.5 x 10.0 2.25 x 8.35 2.25 x 10.75 1.75 x 8.35 1.75 x 10.75 2.00 x 8.35
Red-Blue Green Silver Yellow-Black Silver Yellow-White Yellow-Black Black-Black
, StationWagons-Six Cylinder
Falcon Sedans-Eight Cylinder StationWagon-Eight Cylinder MUSTANG MODELS
All Six Cylinder
POSITION Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Disc
FRONT 2.25 x 7.75 2.25 x 10.0 2.25 X 8.35 2.25 X 10.75
4.82 X 1.84
REAR 1.5 x 7.75 1.5 x 10.0
Red-Blue Green Silver Yellow-White White
All EightCylinder All Eight Cylinder
FAIRLANEAND CDMET
1.75x 8.35 1.75x 10.75
POSITION Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Primary Secondary Primary Secondary FRONT 2.25 x 10.75
MODELS Fairlane& Comet200 & 289 Passenger Cars Fairlane& CometlPO Police & 390 Passenger Cars Maximum FadeResist. Fairlane& CometLPOTaxiMax.WearResist.(Bonded) Station Wagons-Fairlane& Comet 200 & 289 Station Wagon Fairlane& Comet390 FALCON MasterCylinderBore Diameter Standard
REAR 1.75 x 8.35 1.75x 10.75 2.00 x
2.25x 8.35
Silver Yellow-White Yellow-Black Black-Black
x 8.35 2.50x 10.75
2.50 x 9.51 2.50 x 10.75 2.50 x
2.00x 10.75
2.00 x 9.51 2.00 x 10.75 2.00 x 8.35 2.00 x 10.75 2.50 x 8.35 2.50 x 10.75
Yellow-Black Black-Black Yellow-Black Black-Black
2.50x 10.75
2.50 x 8.35 2.50 x 10.75
CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS-INCHES
Lining Maximum WearLimit (FromTopof Rivets) Lining Maximum Clearance Shoe to (MidwayBetween Rivets) PedalTravel-Standard PedalTravel-Power PushRodAdjustment-Power BrakesBendix-Midland-Ross HydraulicLine Diameter ParkingBrake-Type Foot Operated with PedalMountedBelow Left Side of the InstrumentPanel 0.031
1.000 0.003 1.062 1.125 0.844 0.906
IMasterCylinderMaximumAllowableHone
Front Wheel Cylinder Bore Diameter 9" Brake
10" Brake RearWheelCylinderBore Diameter 9" Brake 10" Brake
Wheel Cylinder Maximum Allowable HoneCD
6.50 4.50 0.980-0.995 0.995-1.005 0.188
9" Brake 10" Brake
I Drum Maximum Allowable
9.060 10.060
DrumMaximum Boring Diameter 9" Brake 10" Brake
crJFront WheelBrakeCylinderson Carswith 9" Brakescannot be Honed
MUSTANG MasterCylinderBore Diameter Standard Power MasterCylinderMaximum AllowableHone FrontWheelCylinderBore Diameter 6 CylinderEngine 8 CylinderEngine RearWheelCylinderBore Diameter 6 CylinderEngine 8 CylinderEngine
Wheel Cylinder Maximum Allowable Hone<D
1.000 0.875 0.003
lining Maximum Wearlimit (FromTopof Rivets) Lining Maximum Clearance Shoe to (MidwayBetweenRivets)
0.008 6.3:1 6.50
1.062 1.125 0.844 0.906 0.003
Pedal Ratio Pedal Travel-Standard
PedalTravel-Power PushRodAdjustment-Power Brakes Bendix Midland-Ross
0.980-0.995 0.995-1.005
DrumDiameter: 6 CylinderEngine 8 CylinderEngine
Drum Maximum Allowable Run-Out
Hydraul line Diameter ic 9.0 10.0 ParkingBrake-Type HandOperated with HandleMountedon Lower Left Sideof the InstrumentPanel
DrumMaximum BoringDiameter 6 CylinderEngine 8 CylinderEngine
FRONTWHEELDISC BRAKE(RPO-8 CYLINDERENGINE)
I MasterCylinderBoreDiameter
I MasterCylinderMaximumAllowableHone
I CaliperCylinderBore Diameter
0.938 0.003 1.636
Lining Thickness: lining Maximum Wearlimit (FromSurfaceof Shoe) lining to Rotor Clearance (BrakesReleased)
Pedal Travel (Non Power) Pedal Ratio
0.400 Nominal
0.002-0.010 I
11.375 7.375 0.810 0.002
34.00 sq. in.
Rotor Thickness Rotor Maximum Allowable Runout Lining Area
6.50 5.57:1
CDFront WheelBrakeCylinderson 6 Cyl. Carscannotbe Honed
FAIRLANE AND COMET
IM;ster Cylinder BoreDiameter
I MasterCylinderMaximum AllowableHone FrontWheelCylinderBore Diameter Passenger-200 & 289 Station Wagonand390 Car RearWheelCylinderBore Diameter390 Car Passenger-200 & 289 Station Wagon-dll
LPO Maximum Fade & Maximum Wear Resistant Wheel Cylinders (200 & 289)
0.003 1.125 1.094 0.875 0.906 0.938
Lining Maximum WearLimit (FromTopof Rivetsor ShoeRim)
lining Maximum Clearance Shoe to (MidwayBetweenRivets) PedalTravel-Standard PedalTravel-Power PushRodAdjustment-Power Brakes Bendix Midland-Ross
FrontWheelCylinderBoreDiameter RearWheelCylinderBoreDiameter DrumDiameter DrumMaximum AllowableRun-Out DrumMaximumBoring Diameter DrumWidth-Front Passenger StationWagon-MaximumFadeandWear Resistant& 390 car DrumWidth-Rear Passenger StationWagon Maximum Fade& Maximum WearResistant
0.875 10.0 0.007 10.060
2.25 2.50 1.75 2.50 2.00
HydraulicLine Diameter
ParkingBrake-Type
Foot Operated With Pedal Mounted Below left Side of the Instrument Panel
LIMITS-BRAKES
Description Falcon ft-ibs 5-7 15-20 20-34 6-12 FingerTight 15-20 10-15 20-34 9-13 5 Lug-75-110 4 Lug-55-85 17-25 25-45 8 Cyl.-30-40 6 Cyl.-25-35 HandPushFit 4 Lug-55-85 5 Lug-75-110 12-18 50 in-ibs Max.
Mustang ft-ibs 5.7 8.12 18.25 6-12 Finger Tight 8-12 10.15 20-34 9-13 5 Lug-6 Cyl. 4 Lug-8 Cyl. 17-25 25-45 8 Cyl.-30-40 6 Cyl.-25-35 Hand Push Fit 4 Lug-55-85 5 Lug-75-110 12-18 50 in.lbsMax.
Cometand Fairlane ft-ibs 10-20 15-20 20-34 6-12 FingerTight 15-20 10-15 20-34 9-13 75-110
BrakeCylinderto BrakeCarrier Plate Bolt ParkingBrakeControlAssembly InstrumentPane!Bolt to MasterCylinderto DashPanelBolt TubeConnector MasterCylinder to MasterCylinderCover ParkingBrakeControlAssembly DashPanelBolt to BrakeHoseBolt BrakePedalSupportBracketto DashPanelBolt BrakePedalSupportBracketto InstrumentPanelNut
FRONT DRUM BRAKES ONLY
WheelAssembly WheelHuband DrumAssembly to Nut Wheel,Huband DrumAssembly WheelSpindleNutCD to Carrier Plateto SpindleNut
17.25 25-45
Axle Housingto Carrier Plate Lock Nut Drumto Axle Shaft Assembly Speednut WheelAssembly Axle Shaft to DrumAssembly to Nut
30-40 HandPushFit
Brake Connection AxleHousing line to Bolt Bleeder Screw Wheel to Cylinder
55 in-ibsMax.
Vacuum Manifold to BoosterBodyMountingBolt MasterCylinderto BoosterBody BrakeBoosterto DashPanel PushRodto BrakePedalBolt
CD.0005to .0065 Bearing end play at assembly.
8-10 10-13 12-15 10-15
TORQUE LIMITS-DISC
0.0005" to .0065" maximumbearing end play with torque specifi. ~"tinn nf 17.?~ ft /Ih~
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