Patent Publication Number: US-5422031-A

Title: Hair tinting shampoo

Description:
This application is a continuation of application Ser. No. 07/942,266, filed on Sep. 9, 1992, now abandoned. 
    
    
     The present invention refers to a coloring shampoo which not only provides thorough and gentle cleansing of the hair, but also shows an excellent tinting effect. Shampoos with coloring properties, so-called tinting shampoos, have been known for a long time. Normally, they consist of a surfactant base and one or more direct dyes included therein. Examples of those tinting shampoos may be found in cosmetic monographies, e.g. K. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2nd Ed. (Huethig Buchverlag Heidelberg, 1989), pp.805 to 806, and p.814. 
     These coloring shampoos suffer from the disadvantage that hair colorations achieved by them are often not sufficiently intense and, therefore, fade or even disappear completely after relatively few shampoo treatments. 
     Hence the invention starts from the problem of creating a composition for a coloring shampoo that does not show these disadvantages, i.e. that not only cleanses the hair thoroughly and gently, but also allows the direct dyestuff to be absorbed in such a way as to achieve an improved and lasting color intensity. 
     The present inventors have found that the solution to this problem is the use of a coloring shampoo comprising at least one direct hair dyestuff which is present in a surfactant mixture in an aqueous base, whereby the base contains a surfactant mixture of the following composition: 
     5 to 35% by weight of an anionic surfactant; 
     0.5 to 10% by weight of a surface-active amine oxide; 
     2.5 to 15% by weight of an alkyl polyglycoside of the general formula RO (R 1  O) t  Z x , 
     where Z represents a reducing saccharide residue with 5 to 6 carbon atoms, R represents an alkyl having group from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R 1  represents an ethylene or propylene residue, t is a number from zero to ten and x a number from one to five, and, optionally, 0.5 to 5% by weight of another nonionic surfactant, and (or) about 0.5 to 10% by weight of an amphoteric surfactant. 
     The above percentages each refer to the total composition of the tinting shampoo. 
     EP-A 137 178 already discloses coloring shampoos containing, in addition to a direct dyestuff, an anionic surfactant and an &#34;auxiliary surfactant&#34; which should be a cationic and/or a betaine surfactant. 
     However, these compositions, too, are not entirely satisfactory with respect to optimal color luster and color depth imparted to the hair. 
     Another problem has been set in EP-A 367 926, again describing hair dyeing or hair tinting products on the basis of at least one direct dyestuff in a base mixture of surfactants and usual additives, whereby this base mixture contains 
     2.5 to 20% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant, 
     1 to 10% by weight of at least one surface active amine oxide, and 
     1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant. 
     It is not possible to draw any conclusions as to a solution to the problem of the present invention from the publication mentioned above, especially because this publication clearly states that anionic surfactants, particularly fatty alcohol ether sulphates, should only be used in minor quantities, if at all. 
     Finally, from EP-A 46 543, preparations are known which simultaneously color, wash, and condition the hair. However, these products obligatorily include oxidation dyes, as compared to the present invention which is primarily related to direct dyestuffs. In addition, the shampoo basis composition used in this European publication is fundamentally different in its surfactant composition from the surfactant composition used in the present invention. 
     Anionic surfactants suitable within the scope of the present invention are especially alkali salts of sulphosuccinic acid semi-esters, and particularly the disodium salt of the monooctylsulphosuccinate and alkali salts of long-chain monoalkyl ethoxy sulphosuccinates. 
     An additionally preferred category of anionic surfactants are long-chain acyl sarcosinates or their alkali salts, e.g. sodium lauroylsarcosinate. 
     As already mentioned, the proportion of anionic surfactants in the compositions of the invention is about 5 to about 35% by weight, based on the total composition of the coloring shampoo. A preferred range thereby is about 8 to about 25, and preferably 10 to 20% by weight of anion-active surfactant. A preferred surfactant mixture is composed of an alkali salt of a sulphosuccinate, e.g. disodium laurylether sulphosuccinate, and an acylamino carboxylic acid salt, e.g. sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, preferably in a weight proportion of about 5:1 to 2:1, and particularly 3 to 4:1. In the place of or as a supplement to the preferably used anionic surfactants, as mentioned above, further anion-active surfactants may be used, e.g. the known C 10  -C 18  alkylether sulphates, especially the C 12  -C 14  alkylether sulphates or laurylether sulphate, particularly those containing one to four ethylene oxide groups per mole. 
     Further suitable anion-active surfactants are fatty alcohol sulphates, e.g. laurylsulphate, monoglyceride sulphates, fatty acid amide sulphates produced by ethoxylation and following sulphation of fatty acid monoalkanolamides, alkylether carboxylic acids and alkali salts of long-chain alkylphosphates which are also mild and especially skin-compatible detergents. 
     In admixture with other anionic surfactants, well-known protein-fatty acid-condensation products may also be used. A survey of anion-active surfactants employed in shampoos is, e.g., given in the monography of K. Schrader, 1.c., pp.683 to 691. 
     A further component of the composition of the present invention is a surface-active oxide in a proportion of about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5, and particularly 1.5 to 3% by weight of the total composition. Suitable amine oxides are e.g. C 12  -C 18  alkyl dimethyl amine oxides, e.g. lauryl dimethyl amine oxide or coco-di(hydroxyethyl)amine oxide. 
     The long-chain alkyl residue may also be substituted by amide groups, such as a C 7  -C 17  alkanoylamino-3-dimethyl amino propane-3-N-oxide. Polyoxyethylated amine oxides, are also suitable, as are amine oxides of the type diethylaminopropyl palmitamide-N-oxide, etc. 
     Finally, the compositions of the present invention comprise 2.5 to 15% by weight of an alkylpolyglycoside of the general formula RO(R 1  O) t  Z x , where Z represents a reducing saccharide residue with 5 to 6 carbon atoms, R an alkyl group from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R 1  an ethylene or propylene residue, t a number between zero and ten and x a number between one and five. The preferred proportion is between 5 and 10% by weight of the total composition. Mixtures of anion-active surfactants and alkylpolyglycosides and their use in hair shampoos are already common knowledge, e.g. from EP-A 70 074. 
     The alkyl polyglycosides described therein are principally suitable as well within the scope of the present invention; however, this invention uses, as a specially preferred alkyl polyglycoside, a material with approximately 9 to 11 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and a condensation degree of less than 1.4, preferably 1.35. 
     Mixtures of sulphosuccinates with alkyl polyglycosides are already known as well from EP-A 358 216; the mixtures described therein are also excellently suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. 
     In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of this invention also contain 0.5 to 10, preferably 1 to 5% by weight calculated based on the total composition, of one or more amphoteric surfactants. The various known betaines like fatty acid amido alkylbetaines, long-chain alkyl aminopropionates as well as preferably sulphobetaines are suitable as such. A particularly suitable betaine in this respect is laurylhydroxysulphobetaine. 
     Schrader, 1.c., pp. 598 to 600, also describes amphoteric surfactants suitable for shampoos. 
     Preferred optional ingredients of the composition of this invention are additional nonionic surfactants, preferably in a proportion of approximately 0.5 to approximately 5.0%, especially 1 to 3% by weight calculated based on the total composition. 
     Such nonionic surfactants are, e.g., the various sorbitol esters, for example, polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic acid ester such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate with 20 to 60 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid polyglycolesters or fatty acid glyceride oxyethylate, fatty alcohol polyglycolether and also mixed condensates from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, as they are, e.g., available under the trade name &#34;Pluronic&#34;. 
     As additional nonionic surfactant ingredients, the coloring shampoos of the invention may contain, e.g., long-chain fatty acid monoalkanolamides and dialkanolamides, for example, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide or myristic fatty acid diethanolamide. The proportion of these alkanolamides is preferably between about 0.2 and 2.5, especially 0.5 and 2% by weight of the total composition. 
     Such mixtures of alkylpolyglycosides with fatty acid alkanolamides are, e.g. the object of EP-A 70 076. 
     Hair coloring shampoos of this invention may, of course, include all other substances which are usually employed in those products. As such shall be mentioned: complexing agents, further dyestuffs to tint the shampoo itself, preservatives, pH regulators, viscosity regulators such as inorganic salts, as far as they are not part of the surfactant composition, fragrances, agents to give pearly luster, thickeners, etc. A list of those additional substances is , e.g., disclosed by Schrader, 1.c., pp.695 to 722. 
     Additional useful additives are hair conditioning substances. As such particularly cationic polymers are used, preferably in a proportion between 0.1 to 1.5, especially 0.25 to 1.0% by weight of the total composition. From EP-A 337 354, the use of cationic polymers in alkylpolysaccharide surfactant preparations is already known; the cationic polymers listed therein on pp.3 to 7 are also suitable as conditioning additives in the compositions of this invention. 
     Additional hair conditioning additives are the well-known protein hydrolyzates, e.g. in a proportion of 0.25 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of the total composition. Moreover, water-soluble collagen or water-soluble collagen derivatives are suitable. Finally, as already known, the various polysiloxanes may also be used additionally as conditioning agents in the hair coloring shampoo of this invention. The preferred proportion thereof is between approximately 0.5 and approximately 7.5, especially 1 to 5% by weight of the total composition. Suitable are high volatile as well as less volatile cyclic or linear polysiloxanes, e.g. silicone oils known by their common names &#34;dimethicone&#34; or &#34;phenyldimethicone&#34; and (or) &#34;cyclomethicone&#34;. 
     Naturally, an essential part of the hair coloring shampoos of the invention are direct dyestuffs. Their selection and concentration, of course, is dependent on the desired color shade, because of which the following list may only be taken as an example: 
     Especially suitable are the so-called &#34;Arianor&#34; dyestuffs such as 
     
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Basic Brown 17,  Colour Index No. 12,251;                                 
Basic Brown 16,  C.I. No. 12,250;                                         
Basic Red 76,    C.I. No. 12,245;                                         
Basic Yellow 57, C.I. No. 12,719;                                         
Basic Blue 99,   C.I. No. 56,059;                                         
Basic Violet,    C.I. No. 45,170 or                                       
Basic Violet 1,  C.I. No. 42,535 and                                      
Basic Violet 3,  C.I. No. 42,555;                                         
Acid Yellow 1,   C.I. No. 10,316;                                         
Acid Yellow 9,   C.I. No. 13,015;                                         
Disperse Yellow 3,                                                        
                 C.I. No. 11,855; and                                     
Disperse Yellow 1,                                                        
                 C.I. No. 10,345.                                         
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 Direct hair dyes are also listed at Schrader, 1.c., pp. 800 to 805. Of
 course natural direct dyestuffs, such as henna, may be used additionally.
 
    
    
    
     The following examples give non-limiting illustrations of the invention: 
     EXAMPLE 1 
     
         ______________________________________                                    
Disodium laurylether sulphosuccinate                                      
                            27.00% (by weight)                            
(30%)                                                                     
Sodium lauroylsarcosinate (30%)                                           
                            7.50                                          
C.sub.9 -C.sub.11 -Alkyl polyglycoside (x = 1.35),                        
                            19.00                                         
30%                                                                       
Dimethyl laurylamine oxide (35%)                                          
                            6.00                                          
Lauryl hydroxy sulphobetaine (30%)                                        
                            3.50                                          
PEG-160-sorbitan tristearate                                              
                            1.00                                          
Polysorbate 40              1.00                                          
Preservatives (parabens)    0.30                                          
Complexing agents (EDTA)    0.30                                          
Cationic polymer            0.50                                          
(polydimethyl diallyl                                                     
ammonium chloride)                                                        
Citric acid                 1.00                                          
Henna extract               0.10                                          
Basic Yellow 57             0.01                                          
Basic Red 76                0.08                                          
Basic Blue 99               0.01                                          
Water                ad    100.00                                         
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     The application of this coloring shampoo produces a significant, lasting red shade on the hair. 
     Example 2 
     
         ______________________________________                                    
Disodium laurylether sulphosuccinate                                      
                            25.00% (by weight)                            
(2 to 4 EO-units; 30%)                                                    
C.sub.9 -C.sub.11 -Alkylpolyglycoside (x = 1.35),                         
                            20.00                                         
35%                                                                       
Lauryl dimethyl amine oxide (35%)                                         
                            4.50                                          
Coconut fatty acid amido propylbetaine                                    
                            3.50                                          
(35%)                                                                     
Coconut fatty acid protein-condensate,                                    
                            2.00                                          
sodium salt (30%)                                                         
Complexing agent (HEDP)     0.50                                          
Opacifier                   2.00                                          
Solubilizer (polyoxyethylated hydrated                                    
                            1.00                                          
castor oil fatty acid ester)                                              
Cationic cellulose derivative                                             
                            0.50                                          
(Polyquaternium-10)                                                       
Dyestuff C.I. No. 12,719    0.02                                          
Dyestuff C.I. No. 12,251    0.02                                          
Dyestuff C.I. No. 12,250    0.04                                          
Dyestuff C.I. No. 56,059    0.03                                          
Perfume                     0.65                                          
Preservatives (parabens)    0.25                                          
Water                ad    100.00                                         
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 After washing the hair with this coloring shampoo, a bright light blonde
 tone is achieved.