Patent Publication Number: US-11653707-B2

Title: Upper and lower torso garments having an improved band

Description:
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS 
     This application is a continuation of and claims the benefit of priority to U.S. application Ser. No. 16/677,358, filed on Nov. 7, 2019, which is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No. 16/355,078, now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 10,477,903 on Nov. 19, 2019, which is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No. 16/112,390, now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 10,258,090 on Apr. 16, 2019, which is a divisional application of U.S. application Ser. No. 14/845,181, now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 10,117,469 on Nov. 6, 2018, which is a continuation-in-part of U.S. application Ser. No. 13/782,736, now issued as U.S. Pat. No. 9,254,009 on Feb. 9, 2016, the contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference. 
    
    
     TECHNICAL FIELD 
     This disclosure relates to circularly knitted upper and lower torso garments, such as a brassiere or brief. More particularly, the present disclosure relates to a circularly knitted brassiere and a lower torso undergarment having an improved chest band and waist band, respectively, affixed between the overlapping plies of fabric. 
     BACKGROUND 
     Upper torso garments, such as, brassieres generally and sports bras in particular have a torso encircling band that is knitted at or attached to the lower edge of the brassiere to provide stability and additional support to the wearer. Such bands also are knitted at or attached to the upper edge of lower torso undergarments, such as briefs, to function as a waist band. One known way to form a chest band or waist band is to knit a turned welt during the process of knitting the fabric tube. An alternative method is to stitch an elastomeric band to the bottom edge of the brassiere, or the top edge of the brief, around the entire periphery; this additional step requires additional labor and increases costs. The resulting band tends to be relatively bulky and thick, and, therefore more visible and less comfortable when worn. 
     SUMMARY 
     An aspect of the present disclosure is a circularly knitted garment, such as a brassiere or brief, having a thin elastomeric band affixed between overlapping plies of knitted fabric. In one exemplary embodiment, the elastomeric band comprises a thin polyamide film having a modulus (kilograms of holding power) that is greater than can be achieved by conventional elastomeric yarns, such as spandex and Lycra®. The modulus of the plies and film combined may be between about 1.0 kg and 4 kg. As used herein, the term “modulus” refers to the kilograms of recovery force available in the material at a given percentage of stretch. The greater the modulus, the stiffer the material, i.e. the more resistant the material will be to linear stretch. Depending upon the type of elastomeric material, its width and thickness, its modulus may vary widely. 
     Another aspect of the present disclosure is a method of forming a brassiere or lower torso undergarment having an elastomeric band affixed between the overlapping plies of fabric. The method comprises circularly knitting a body that is symmetrically dimensioned for forming a two-ply garment, comprising inner and outer layers when folded about a central fold line. The elastomeric band is positioned proximate the fold line and the plies are symmetrically overlapped about the fold line, thus enclosing the elastomeric band and forming the two-ply garment with a torso band that is thinner and, therefore, less visible and more comfortable when worn. In one embodiment, the elastomeric band is affixed to one or both of the inner and outer layers of knitted fabric by the application of temperature and pressure for a selected amount of time. 
    
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
       The present disclosure will be more apparent from the following detailed explanation of embodiments of the disclosure in connection with the accompanying drawings. 
         FIG.  1    is a front perspective environmental view of an example brassiere. 
         FIG.  2    is a rear perspective environmental view of the example brassiere of  FIG.  1   , illustrating an embodiment having a rear closure. 
         FIG.  3    is a rear perspective environmental view of the example brassiere of  FIG.  1   , illustrating a sports-type bra embodiment without a rear closure. 
         FIG.  4    is a front view of the example brassiere of  FIGS.  1  and  2   . 
         FIG.  5    is a rear view of the example brassiere of  FIGS.  1  and  2   . 
         FIG.  6    is a cross-sectional view of the example brassiere of  FIG.  1   , taken along Line  6 - 6 . 
         FIG.  7    is a front perspective environmental view of example boxer briefs. 
         FIG.  8    is a cross-sectional view of the example boxer briefs of  FIG.  7   , taken along line  8 - 8 . 
     
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
     One aspect of the present disclosure is directed to an upper torso garment, such as, a brassiere, a sports bra or a camisole. Referring to  FIGS.  1 - 6    in general, a circularly-knitted brassiere is shown generally as  100 . The circularly-knitted brassiere  100 , which is formed on a conventional circular knitting machine, may comprise a two-ply brassiere body having overlapping inner  112  and outer  114  layers, or plies. While a two-ply brassiere is illustrated and described herein, the disclosure is not limited to a two-ply garment; rather, one-ply garments, such as brassieres and lower torso undergarments, are within the scope of the disclosure. 
     The brassiere body may be formed of any of the conventional materials such as polyester, nylon, etc. The body may be formed by also knitting in one or more elastomeric yarns, such as spandex, having some degree of elasticity for securing the garment about the wearer&#39;s torso. Each ply of fabric for the embodiments described herein may be between about 0.6 mm and about 2.0 mm thick. 
     As shown in  FIGS.  2 ,  4  and  5   , the brassiere disclosed herein comprises a pair of breast cups  120 , and a torso encircling strap  130  extending outwardly from the outer edges of each breast cup  120 , with the two torso straps  130  fastening at the back of the wearer with fasteners  150 . In the exemplary embodiment shown in  FIG.  3   , a single continuous torso strap  135  extends between the outer edges of the breast cups  120  to encircle the torso of the wearer. This embodiment is typical of a pullover sports-type brassiere. Further, the breast cups  120  may be either molded after the brassiere body is formed, or may be knitted in as loose areas on the front of the body during the knitting process. 
     As shown in  FIGS.  1 - 6   , an elastomeric band  170  is inserted along the bottom of the brassiere  100 , between the inner  112  and outer  114  plies, and extends beneath the breast cups  120 , the central gore  180 , and along the lower edges of the torso straps  130 ,  135 . 
     Turning now to  FIG.  6   , the elastomeric band  170  of the brassiere  100  comprises a relatively thin elastomeric material having an improved modulus and that maintains a relatively consistent modulus across a useful range of elongation. Depending upon the type and style of the brassiere  100 , the thickness of the elastomeric band  170  may range from between about 0.010 mm and 0.45 mm to reduce the visibility of the elastomeric material when the garment is worn. The optimal thickness of the elastomeric band  170  will depend on the desired level of control to be provided for the brassiere  100 , which is typically size dependent. As will be appreciated, the thinner the elastomeric band  170 , the less visible the band when worn. The degree of control and support for the brassiere  100  type and style also depends on the width of the elastomeric band  170 . The width of the elastomeric band  170  can range from about one-quarter (¼) inch for a minimally supporting bra up to seven (7) or more inches wide for a lower torso control garment. An optimal width for the exemplary embodiments illustrated herein is between about three-quarters (¾) inch and one and one-quarter (1¼) inches. 
     In one embodiment, the elastomeric band  170  comprises a thin film of thermoplastic elastomer (TPE). In another embodiment, the elastomeric band  170  comprises a woven or nonwoven material of filaments and/or fibers of thermoplastic elastomer (TPE). In certain instances, the elastomeric band includes multiple plies of material, with at least one of the plies being TPE. The thermoplastic elastomer may comprise a polyamide blend. One such polyamide blend is available under the trademark Pebax® from Arkema Inc. of King of Prussia, Pa. Other thin elastomeric materials, including other films, having the physical properties described below, may be suitable to form the elastomeric band  170 . For example, the thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) can include styrene-based block copolymers, and/or thermoplastic urethane (TPU). One such styrenic block copolymer is SBC by Kraton®, as shown in Table 1 below. In some examples, the TPE can include styrene ethylene butadiene styrene (SEBS) block copolymers, styrene ethylene propylene (SEP) block copolymers, styrene isoprene styrene (SIS), styrene ethylene ethylene propylene styrene (SEEPS) block copolymers, styrene ethylene propylene styrene (SEPS) block copolymers, combinations of the foregoing block copolymers, and/or other styrenic block copolymers. In certain implementations, the elastomeric band  170  includes thermoplastic elastomeric fibers integral to the band  170 . 
     In some implementations, the elastomeric band  170  has elastic recovery properties described below following test methods and procedures, for example, according to ASTM D4964. This test method includes constant rate of extension testing (i.e., stretch-strain testing). For example, elastomeric properties of the elastomeric band  170  can include a substantially zero hysteresis loss, where the elastomeric band  170  has an elasticity that is substantially maintained between a stretched state and an unstretched state of the band  170 . In other words, a return percentage (e.g., stretch-back) of the elastomeric band  170  after stretch is at least about 98%, for example, up to about 99.9%. In certain implementations, the elastic band  170  can withstand at least 25 launderability cycles (e.g., washing and drying cycles) while retaining a percentage retention (e.g.,  95 % stretch retention). In some instances, the elastic band  170  is resistant to ultraviolet light and nitrous oxide (NO) gas degradation (e.g., discoloration, negative elastomeric effects, and/or other). In certain implementations, desired elastic film characteristics of the elastomeric band  170  can be achieved through adjustment of certain polymer ratios, and the addition of process oils, thermosetting resins, tackifier resins, anti-shrink agents, pigments, and/or other chemistry agents. 
     An example testing method (the “Stretch Back Indicator Test”) for determining a stretch-back of the elastomeric band  170  includes a length of 1-inch-wide elastomeric band  170  held on each longitudinal end. The band is stretched to a length 150% of the initial unstretched length, for example, on a Zwick testing machine. After reaching the stretched length, the band is immediately returned to an unstretched state (e.g., without holding at stretched length). After cycling the band through two exercises of three cycles, a final unstretched length is determined every third cycle and compared to the initial unstretched length of the band. After the test is performed through the two exercises of three cycles for each sample, an indication of stretch-back (i.e., elastic recovery) is determined (e.g., by machine output) for the band by dividing the initial unstretched length over the final unstretched length and multiplying by  100  to obtain a percentage. The closer the final result is to 100%, the better the stretch back properties. 
     By way of example and comparison, for the exemplary embodiments shown herein, a typical knitted-in torso band, e.g., a turned welt, would be approximately 2.0 mm thick. A cut and sew brassiere with a sewn in elastic band of similar weight to the turned welt would be approximately 1.8 mm thick. For example, a band having the thermoplastic elastomeric polyamide film described above can be approximately 1.5 mm thick. 
     The modulus of the elastomeric material depends on its type of material, width and thickness. In the exemplary embodiments described herein, an optimal modulus may be between about 1.0 and 4.0 kilograms. As shown in the several examples in Table 1 below, this range in the modulus corresponds to between about 95% and 140% in deformation (stretch) when the elastomeric band  170  is subjected to a length direction static load of 7 kilograms. 
     
       
         
           
               
               
               
               
               
             
               
                 TABLE 1 
               
               
                   
               
               
                   
                 Thickness  
                 Modulus (kg) 
                 Modulus (kg) 
                   
               
               
                   
                 of 
                 (40%  
                 (60%  
                 Total Percent 
               
               
                 Elastomeric 
                 Elasto- 
                 elongation) 
                 elongation) 
                 Deformation 
               
               
                 Band 
                 meric 
                 (band  
                 (band  
                 (band  
               
               
                 Material 
                 Band 
                 plus plies) 
                 plus plies) 
                 plus plies) 
               
               
                   
               
             
            
               
                 Pebax ® 
                 0.10 mm 
                 1.08 
                 1.66 
                 132% 
               
               
                 Pebax ® 
                 0.15 mm 
                 1.59 
                 2.25 
                 123% 
               
               
                 SBC by  
                 0.30 mm 
                 2.31 
                 3.50 
                 102% 
               
               
                 Kraton ® 
               
               
                   
               
            
           
         
       
     
     By way of comparison, the body of brassiere  100  will have a modulus of less than 1 kilogram. For example, the two overlapped plies, formed from a conventional blend of 89% weight nylon and 11% weight spandex has a modulus of about 0.132 kg at 40% elongation and about 0.35 kg at 60% elongation. As seen in Table 1 above, the elastomeric bands provide a reduced increase in modulus with increased elongation. This produces a brassiere  100  that will be comfortable over a larger range of sizes. In the torso band region at the bottom of the brassiere proximate the fold line  173 , the two-ply body material alone would allow for elongation of 160% when tested under the same 7 kg load as the samples in Table 1. 
     Referring again to  FIG.  6   , the method of forming the brassiere  100  of the present disclosure is best illustrated. The brassiere body or blank is knitted in the form of a tube on a conventional circular knitting machine. The center periphery of the tube corresponds to the fold line  173  about which the inner  112  and outer  114  layers will be overlapped into the two-ply brassiere body. 
     The elastomeric band  170  is positioned proximate the center fold line  173  on what will become the inner surfaces of the two-ply brassiere body when the tube is folded. The elastomeric band  170  may be coated on one or both sides with a heat-sealable adhesive  172  for adhering the elastomeric band  170  in position once the brassiere construction is complete. One suitable heat-sealable adhesive  172  is RX 2641, available from Bixby International Corp. of Newburyport, Mass. The disclosure, however, is not limited to using a heat-sealable adhesive to adhere the band  170 ; rather, the use of other suitable materials and methods for securing the band to the garment are within the scope of the disclosure. 
     The inner  112  and outer  114  layers of the brassiere body are next symmetrically overlapped about the fold line  173 , enclosing the elastomeric band  170  and forming the two-ply brassiere body as described above. Where a heat-sealable adhesive  172  is applied to one or both sides of the elastomeric band  170 , the elastomeric band  170  is affixed between the two plies with an air-operated press having upper and lower heating elements. An application temperature may be between about 150 degrees Fahrenheit and 380 degrees Fahrenheit, preferable about 320 degrees Fahrenheit. The application pressure should be no less than about 10 psi and no more than about 120 psi, preferably between about 30 and about 60 psi. The preferred pressure should be applied for no less than about 5 seconds and no more than about 90 seconds, preferably between about 20 and about 30 seconds. In certain implementations, the elastomeric band  170  can be applied to fabric layers without the heat-sealable adhesive  172 . For example, the elastomeric band  170  can have melt properties allowing the elastomeric band  170  to fuse (e.g., heat-set, melt, and/or otherwise affix) to a fabric layer with an applied heat of between about 300 degrees Fahrenheit and about 360 degrees Fahrenheit. Alternatively, the elastomeric band  170  can have melt properties allowing the elastomeric band  170  to fuse (e.g., heat-set, melt, and/or otherwise affix) to a fabric layer with an applied heat of between about 300 degrees Fahrenheit and about 340 degrees Fahrenheit. As yet another alternative, the elastomeric band  170  can have melt properties allowing the elastomeric band  170  to fuse (e.g., heat-set, melt, and/or otherwise affix) to a fabric layer with an applied heat of between about 320 degrees Fahrenheit and about 340 degrees Fahrenheit. (e.g., at about 300, 305, 310, 315, 320, 325, 330, 335 or 340 degrees Fahrenheit). 
     Once the elastomeric band  170  is adhered between the inner  112  and outer  114  layers, the brassiere body may be cut to the desired shape. Subsequently, trim  190  is applied along the free edges, shoulder straps  160  attached, and fasteners  150  are affixed to complete the brassiere  100  construction. Where shoulder strap portions  160  are formed and cut with the brassiere body, they need only to be seamed together proximate the top of the shoulder. Similarly, where the torso strap  135  is continuous, no fasteners  150  are necessary. 
     Another aspect of the present disclosure is directed to a circularly-knitted lower torso undergarment, such as a boxer, a brief, a boxer brief, panties, pantyhose or shapewear. Referring to  FIGS.  7  and  8   , a boxer brief is shown generally as  200 . The circularly-knitted brief  200 , which is formed on a conventional circular knitting machine, comprises a body formed of any of the conventional materials such as polyester, nylon, etc. The body may be formed by also knitting in one or more elastomeric yarns, such as spandex, having some degree of elasticity for securing the garment about the wearer&#39;s lower torso. 
     The briefs  200  of the present disclosure comprises a pair of leg openings  210 , a crotch portion  230  and a waist opening  220  surrounded by a waist band  250  of the present disclosure. The embodiment illustrated includes leg portions  240  as is typical of boxer style briefs. Conventional briefs, i.e. without leg portions  240 , for males or females having the waist band  250  are also within the scope of the disclosure. 
     As best seen in  FIG.  8   , an elastomeric band  270 , as described above, is inserted along the waist opening  220  of the brief  200 , between inner  212  and outer  214  plies. Both the inner and outer plies  212 ,  214  are formed as parts of a single tube created by a circular knitting machine. The top portion of the tube is then folded downward along a top fold line  273  to form the waist band  250  having two plies, the elastomeric band  270  disposed adjacent to the fold line  273  and covered by the two plies. The elastomeric band  270 , inner ply  212  and outer ply  214  may be held in place by adhesive  272 , set using heat and pressure similar to the method discussed above. Alternate methods of adhering the elastomeric band to the body of the brief  200  are within the scope of the present disclosure. 
     It should be understood that the foregoing descriptions and examples are only illustrative of the disclosure. Various alternatives and modifications thereof can be devised by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the present disclosure. Accordingly, the present disclosure is intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications, and variations.