Patent Publication Number: US-3877079-A

Title: Method for making an article conformable to a variably shaped cylindrical surface

Description:
United States Patent 1191 OBryant METHOD FOR MAKING AN ARTICLE CONFORMABLE TO A VARIABLY SHAPED CYLINDRICAL SURFACE [76] Inventor: Mary Louetta OBryant, 304  
 Fontana Pl., N.E., Albuquerque, N. Mex. 87108 [22] Filed: Dec. 10, 1973 [21] Appl. No.: 423,069  
 &#39; [52] US. Cl 2/243 B [51] Int. Cl A41h 3/00 [58] Field of Search 2/1, 47, 65, 69.5, 74,  
 2/88, 89, 90, 211, 216, 217, 243 R, 243 A1243 B; 52/80, 81  
 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,292,316 12/1966 Zeinetz 52/81 3,530,620 9/1970 Heieren 52/81 3,710,806 l/l973 Kelly et a1 52/81 X FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 1,191,776 10/1959 France 52/81 1 Apr. 15, 1975 593,639 3/1959 Italy 2/243 R Primary Examiner-Werner H. Schroeder Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Robert W. Weig ABSTRACT The disclosure relates to a method for making an article capable of conforming to a substantially cylindrical surface. The surface is partitioned into a pattern of diamond-shaped segments by constructing a plurality of substantially arcuate intersecting diagonals on the surface of the cylinder. Flexible planar material is formed into elements corresponding to the diamond- Shaped segments. Each of the elements comprises a different diamond-shaped component part corresponding to a different segment. The elements are then fastened together to form a diamond-shaped pattern of planar material conformable to the cylindrical surface. The cylindrical surface can be varying in nature, such as barrel-shaped, truncated pyramidal or spherical.  
 9 Claims, 21 Drawing Figures M&#39;JENTEBA I 5 I95 SfiZET 4 UF 6 Fig. 6 0  
 Fig. 60  
 Back View Front View PATENTEDAPRISIHYS a 877 079 SHEET 5 o METHOD FOR MAKING AN ARTICLE CONFORMABLE TO A VARIABLY SHAPED CYLINDRICAL SURFACE FIELD OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to a method for making an article capable of conforming to a substantially cylindrical surface and more particularly to a method of making such an article comprising diamond-shaped elements of planar material.  
 BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION In the manufacture of clothing, in order to conform a flat planar material into an article capable of conforming to the curves of the human body, one must pleat, dart, or gather the material in accordance with the shape of the human body. Doing this frequently distorts the pattern in the material, causing nonconformities therein, as well as anomalies on the surface thereof.  
  Although the human body can be said to be substantially cylindrical, the circumference of a cylindrical portion of an article of clothing varies at different points thereon and the rate of change of the circumfer ence of the cylinder also varies at different points thereon. Most articles of clothing may be partitioned into several cylindrical components which cover the trunk, the arms and the legs. An article of clothing covering the body may be substantially cylindrical in its entirety, such as a full length dress, or it may comprise a substantially cylindrical trunk portion and cylindrical portions that cover the arms, such as the sleeves of a shirt. Pants comprise a short cylindrical top portion and two longer cylindrical portions of approximately equal size. In forming any of these articles of clothing, one must typically use darts, pleats, or gathers to make clothing which suitably fits the human body from piecegoods or yardgoods.  
 SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In accordance with the invention, there is provided a method for making an article of clothing, or other article capable of conforming to a substantially cylindrical surface. The method comprises partitioning the cylindrical surface of interest into diamond-shaped segments by constructing a plurality of substantially arcuate intersecting diagonals thereacross. The average degree of curvature of the diagonals at any one point is related to the circumference of the cylinder and the rate of change of the circumference of the cylinder at such a point. Elements, formed from any planar material desired, and which comprise diamond-shaped component parts corresponding to the diamond-shaped segments constructed upon the cylindrical surface, may be fastened together, or packaged in a kit, so that one may later fasten the elements together. The diamondshaped segments and/or their corresponding elements may be appropriately labelled so that the article may be easily made from them. In addition, the cylindrical sur face may be partitioned into several pluralities of equivalent diamond-shaped segments to yield pluralities of interchangeable elements. Thus, a desired one of several possible designs may be incorporated into the article made if several different colors or patterns of piecegoods are used to make the elements.  
  One object of the present invention is to provide an article of clothing suitably conformable to the human body and which is free of darts, pleats or gathers.  
  Another object of the present invention is to provide an article of clothing made from elements comprising diamond-shaped component parts having an attractive design.  
  Yet another object of the present invention is to provide ss an article comprising a plurality of elements comprising diamond-shaped component parts of planar material capable of conforming to a selected substantially cylindrical surface.  
  Still another object of the present invention is to pro vide a plurality of elements comprising diamondshaped component parts which may be fastened&#39;together into an article of clothing comprising any one of a possible plurality of colorful designs.  
  One advantage of the present invention is that in accordance therewith, a pleatless, dartless and gatherless article of clothing may be made.  
  Another advantage of the present invention is that in accordance therewith, an article of clothing can be made into a desired one of several possible designs from several pluralities of different and interchangeable elements comprising diamond-shaped component parts.  
  Another advantage of the present invention is that kits may be provided of elements comprising diamondshaped component parts for assembly into at least one of a possible plurality of designs.  
  Other objects and advantages of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following description with reference to the appended drawings, wherein like numbers denote like parts and wherein:  
  FIG. 1 shows a simple straight cylinder divided into diamond-shaped segments with intersecting diagonals;  
  FIG. 2 shows a cylinder or truncated cone which has a constant rate of change of circumference divided into diamond-shaped segments in accordance with the invention;  
  FIG. 3 shows the cylindrical surface of FIG. 2, as divided into diamond-shaped segments, laid flat;  
  FIGS. 4a-d show several embodiments of the invention illustrating the diamond-shaped segments of the invention;  
  FIGS. Sa-d show several exemplary embodiments of cylindrical surfaces having essentially diamond-shaped segments constructed thereon in accordance with the invention;  
  FIGS. 6a-e show skirts constructed in accordance with the invention illustrating some possible designs incorporating interchangeable pluralities of diamondshaped component parts; and  
  FIGS. 7a-e show how articles of clothing may comprise portions thereof constructed in accordance with the method of the invention.  
 DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Reference is now made to FIG. 1 which shows a simple straight cylindrical surface 10 partitioned into diamond-shaped segments by two sets of substantially parallel intersecting diagonals l2 and 14 constructed thereon. In FIG. 1, the cylindrical surface is traced by moving a straight line parallel to and at a fixed distance from a stationary straight line (the axis of the cylinder formed). In the FIG. 1 cylinder, all intersecting diago- 3 nals are clearly parallel with one another. If the cylindrical surface is opened and laid flat, the diagonals form straight lines, i.e., the diagonals have infinite radii of curvature. Too, the diamond-shaped segments of surface It) are equivalent, i.e., equal in size .and shape.  
  FIG. 2 illustrates a cylindrical surface 14, which may also be termed a truncated cone. The FIG. 2 cylindrical surface is generated by a point which always moves so that the ratio of its distance from a fixed point to its distance from a fixed line is constant. Hence, the diagonals in each set of diagonals, l8 and 20, I will call substantially or essentially&#34; parallel because they do not intersect, although the smaller the circumference of the cylinder becomes, the closer together come the parallel diagonals.  
  The cylindrical surface 16 of FIG. 2, laid out on a flat surface, appears in FIG. 3. Diagonals 20, as shown herein, are essentially or substantially arcuate, and form substantially or essentially diamondshaped segments as shown in FIGS. ta-d.  
  In FIG. 4a, the diagonals curve continuously in the same direction. In FIG. 4b, the diagonals curve continuously, but cyclically, such as in a sine wave on an axis having a large radius of curvature (the basic curvature of one of the diagonals shown in FIG. 3). The FIG. 4c diagonals are similar to those of FIG. 4b but intersect differently. Too, one set of diagonals may be cyclically curved such as those of FIGS. 4b or 4c whereas the other set of diagonals may comprise diagonals which continuously curve in the same direction such as those of FIG. 4a. In the preferred embodiment of the invention the diagonals are essentially or substantially arcuate, and formed of straight-line parts such as shown in FIG. 4d. Substantially or essentially arcuate diagonals may also comprise combinations and/or permutations of straight-line parts, cyclically curved, and/or continously curved parts to form other essentially or substantially diamond-shaped segments. One could also alternate the form of diagonals in any set of parallel diagonals to form several types of diamond-shaped segments in a pattern or at random. It will be appreciated that the substantially or essentially diamond-shaped segments shown in FIGS. 4a-e are illustrative only, and other variations of substantially or essentially diamondshaped segments not shown but within the scope of the invention, will be apparent to those skilled in the art.  
  The cylindrical surfaces of FIGS. 1 and 2 are constructed so that they are circular in cross-section and their elements of rotation:, i.e., lines in their surfaces in a common plane with their axes of symmetry, are straight lines. FIG. 5a illustrates a barrel-shaped cylindrical surface having convex elements of rotation, whereas FIG. 5b shows a cylindrical surface having concavely curved elements of rotation. FIG. 5c shows a conically cylindrical surface having convex elements ofrotation and FIG. 5d shows a conically cylindrical surface having concave elements of rotation. All of these cylindrical surfaces may have intersecting sets of substantially or essentially parallel, essentially or sub stantially arcuate diagonals constructed thereon to form diamondshaped segments in accordance the invention. 7 g  
  It will be apparent to those&#39;skilled in the art that the cylindrical surfaces shown are exemplary only and that other more complex cylindrical surfaces which are non-circular in cross-section, andindeed, which may randomly or otherwise symmetrically or unsymmetrically vary in cross-sectional shape and dimensions may be partitioned into substantially diamond-shaped segments in accordance with the invention.  
  As heretofore pointed out, articles of clothing generally comprise cylindrical shapes. For example, a shirt, jacket or blouse may comprise a tapered or untapered substantially cylindrical body, and two cylindrical sleeves. Pants comprise two cylindrical leg portions joined at one end into a somewhat shorter, but widerin-diameter, trunk fitting portion. Skirts and dresses comprise cylindrical surfaces of varying diameter and shape.  
  In accordance with the invention, an article of clothing can be made from planar elements of yardgoods, piecegoods, leather or other such material, flexible or inflexible, comprising substantially diamond-shaped component parts. As stated above, by practicing the invention, one can eliminate the need for darts, pleats or gathers in an article of clothing. And, by eliminating darts, pleats or gathers, one can preserve a particular pattern or design, inconsistency and anomaly free.  
  It is clear that by varying the shape and the size of the diamond-shaped segments, the garment can be conformed to the cylindrical surface of interest without pleats, darts or gathers.  
  In making an article of clothing, or a portion thereof, in accordance with the invention, one preferably follows this method:  
  A pattern of diamond-shaped segments is developed by constructing intersecting sets of pluralities of essentially parallel diagonals on the cylindrical surface of interest. One may sometimes make a selected cylinder of planar material, such as paper, and lay it flat before constructing diamond shapes thereon. This is not always possible because some cylindrical surfaces, such as those of FIGS. Sa-a&#39;, as well as other more complex cylinders can not be laid flat. Individual diamondshaped segments are then cut out of&#39;the pattern, after preferably appropriately labelling them as exemplarily shown in FIG. 4a. This pattern making step may be eliminated and diamond-shaped segments directly constructed on the yardgoods if one is sufficiently skilled in the art. a  
  The yardgoods, piecegoods, or any planar material the seamstress wants to use may then be cut or formed in accordance with the diamond-shaped segment pattern. The goods are preferably labelled as the pattern of segments for identification of elements, as shown in FIG. 4a. As known to those skilled in the garment arts, pieces of fabric are usually not cut to abut, but rather to overlap so that they may be sewn together securely without danger of raveling or otherwise coming apart. Thus, the elements which comprise diamond-shaped component parts are larger than their corresponding segments in order to provide sufficient material to cover said segments by a convenient margin.  
  The elements are fastened together as labelled. In most cases, some of the diamond-shaped segments will be equivalent and-hence their corresponding elements will be interchangeable.Different elements may be formed from different fabrics having various colors and/or patterns. The elements may then be combined to provide a desired design on the finished article of clothing. If interchangeable pluralities of elements are i used, a varietyof designs are possible from given different elem en ts. ..An example of design varietyattainable from a given pattern is shown in the skirts of FIGS.  
 6a-e. In the skirts of FIGS. 6u-e, at the waist, the diamond-shaped segments are comparatively narrow and tall, but as one looks lower and lower on the skirt, each successive row of diamonds becomes wider and shorter until near its middle the diamonds are substantially square. Below the middle of the skirt the diamonds get wider and shorter, being wider than they are tall. Therefore, one can see that in any one row on a rotationally symmetrical cylindrical skirt, the elements are interchangeable. The waist and hem comprise diamonds cut in half, or otherwise truncated.  
  FIGS. 7a-e illustrate how portions of almost any article of clothing may be made by practicing the invention. Note the morning glory sleeves in the dress of FIG. 71). Morning glory sleeves are fuller about their circumferences than a complete circle and can be made pleatless, dartless and gatherless to preserve the diamond pattern in accordance with the invention.  
  The pants and sleeves of the pants-suit of FIG. 7a and the lower portions of the dress of FIG. 70 comprise conically spherical cylindrical surfaces such as that of FIG. 2. The trumpet or puffed sleeves of FIG. 7e comprise diamond-shaped segments in accordance with the invention and are pleatless, gatherless and dartless, preserving a diamond pattern.  
  In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, diamond shaped segments and diamond shaped component parts comprise rhombi, as seen particularly clearly in FIG. 4d. As shown therein, all the rhombi in a selected article of clothing are equilateral and all the sides of all the rhombi in the article are of equal length. The article illustrated in FIG. 4d will be a skirt if the two sides are joined together. As can be seen from the Figure, at and near the waistline, the rhombi are comparatively tall and narrow. Further down, the rhombi are square, and at or near the bottom, the rhombi are short and wide. Nevertheless, all the rhombi in the skirt have sides of equal length. Each row has the same number of rhombi in it as any other row. Too, the diamond shaped parts in a particular row around the skirt are identical in size and shape and are therefore interchangeable. This is because this particular skirt is symmetric about its axis of revolution, an imaginary line running from the lower hemline to the waistline through the center of the skirt enclosed volume.  
  The various features and advantages of the invention are thought to be clear from the foregoing description. However, various other features and advantages not specifically enumerated will undoubtedly occur to those versed in the art, as likewise will many variations and modifications of the embodiments illustrated herein, all of which may be achieved without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.  
 I claim:  
  1. A method of making elements for forming a cylindrical portion of an article of clothing, from elements of planar material comprising essentially diamondshaped component parts, the method comprising the steps of:  
 conforming a flexible sheet of a first material to the desired cylindrical shape;  
 constructing intersecting groups of quasi-parallel diagonals on the first material to form essentially dia mond-shaped segments thereon;  
 labelling the segments to establish their juxtapositional relationship to one another on the surface; and  
 cutting a second planar material to provide elements comprising diamond-shaped component parts, every one of the component parts corresponding to a different one of the segments of the first material.  
  2. The invention of claim 1 further comprising fastening the elements of the second material together in accordance with the juxta-positional relationship of corresponding segments in the first material to form the cylindrical portion of an article of clothing conformable to the desired cylindrical surface.  
  3. The invention of claim 1 further comprising labelling the elements of the second material so that they can be juxta-positioned in the same relationship to one another as their corresponding segments of the first material are to one another.  
  4. The invention of claim I further comprising labelling the edges of the elements ofthe second material so that they are identifiable for fastening in an appropriate juxta-positional relationship to form the portion of the article of clothing.  
  5. The invention of claim 1 wherein arcuate diagonals are constructed.  
  6. The invention of claim 1 wherein essentially arcuate diagonals comprising straight-line parts are constructed.  
  7. The invention of claim 1 wherein the second material comprises a plurality of piecegoods visually distinguishable from one another and elements formed of the plurality of piecegoods are fastenable together in a plurality of visually ascertainable designs comprising essentially diamond shapes.  
  8. The invention of claim 7 wherein the diagonals are constructed to provide at least one plurality of essentially identical diamond-shaped segments, so that essentially identical elements comprising different piecegoods are interchangeable with one another to enable them to be fastened together into a desired one of several designs.  
 9. An article of clothing, at least one part of which is made according to the method of claim 8.