Patent Publication Number: US-8123589-B2

Title: System and method of constructing and sizing brassieres

Description:
BACKGROUND 
     The present invention relates to women&#39;s support undergarments, and more particularly, to a system and method of constructing and sizing women&#39;s brassieres. 
     Brassieres are commonly worn by women under their clothing to support their breasts. A brassiere, more commonly known to consumers as a bra, typically includes cups to support the breasts and wing portions that attach to the cups and encircle the upper torso of the woman to hold the bra on the woman&#39;s body. Traditional bra design and sizing is not consistent across designers and involves the use of mathematical equations and analysis to translate direct body measurements into a suggested bra size based on adjusted or indirect body measurements. It is thus desirable to provide a system and method of constructing and sizing brassieres that is directly related to body measurements to provide a comfortable and well-fitted bra based on a sizing system that is easy for a consumer to understand. 
     SUMMARY 
     The present invention relates to a non-customized, standard array of brassieres that is constructed based on a grading array extracted from scanned body data. The non-customized, standard array provides a plurality of commercially available, non-customized standard brassieres for the consumer. The standard array fits a wide range of the consumer population based on the compiled scanned body measurements. However, unlike the prior art, which in some cases can provide individually customized brassieres based on specific measurements of an individual consumer, the commercially available standard array of brassieres formed from the process of the present invention are not individually customized to each individual consumer&#39;s measurements. 
     The grading array is built from a number of differently-sized bands that each defines an arc. The grading array defines a constant band end location based on a constant angular position on the arc relative to the centerline across a plurality of band lengths. The grading array also defines a constant cup location based on a constant angular position on the arc relative to the centerline for different-sized cups on a single band length as well as for the same or different-sized cups across a plurality of band lengths. The grading array further defines a variable bridge distance (i.e., the distance between cups on a brassiere) that varies on a single band length based on cup size and varies across a plurality of band lengths across the grading array based on cup size and band length. 
     The non-customized, standard array of brassieres is identifiable by a standard brassiere measuring system where the volume identifier represents a consistent volume regardless of the band length for which the volume group is associated. Further, the standard brassiere measuring system is based on direct body measurements representative of breast volume and underbust circumference. 
     In one embodiment, the invention provides a non-customized standard array of brassieres. The standard array of brassieres includes a plurality of fabric bands generated from a corresponding plurality of bands of varying lengths. Each of the plurality of bands includes a center point, a first end point on one side of the center point, and a second end point on the opposite side of the center point. The center point, the first end point, and the second end point of a corresponding band define an arc having a substantially constant radius. The first end point of each of the plurality of bands is located at an angular distance from the center point of the corresponding band. The angular distance is constant across the plurality of bands. 
     In another embodiment, the non-customized standard array of brassieres includes a plurality of cup pairs based on a corresponding plurality of breast volumes. The plurality of cup pairs have different sizes. The standard array also includes a plurality of fabric bands including a first plurality of fabric bands having a common length, and a second plurality of fabric bands having different lengths relative to each other. One cup pair of the plurality of cup pairs is attached to each fabric band. Each fabric band of the plurality of fabric bands includes a bridge defined by the distance between the cups of the cup pair attached to the fabric band. The distance varying across at least one of the first plurality of fabric bands and the second plurality of fabric bands. 
     In another embodiment, the non-customized standard array of brassieres includes first and second brassieres of a non-customized, standard array of brassieres. The first brassiere includes a first fabric band having a first length and a first cup pair attached to the first fabric band and including a volume identifier. Each cup of the first cup pair is configured to contain a specified volume corresponding to a predetermined breast volume. The second brassiere including a second fabric band having a second length different from the first length. The second brassiere including a second cup pair attached to the second fabric band and including the volume identifier. Each cup of the second cup pair is configured to contain the specified volume corresponding to the predetermined breast volume. 
     In another embodiment, the non-customized standard array of brassieres includes a plurality of cup pairs, a plurality of fabric bands generated from a plurality of bands including a first plurality of bands of varying lengths and a second plurality of bands having a common length. Each of the plurality of bands including a center point, a first end point on one side of the center point, and a second end point on the opposite side of the center point. The center point, the first end point, and the second end point define an arc having a substantially constant radius. One cup pair of the plurality of cup pairs is attached to each fabric band. A cup of each cup pair of the plurality of cup pairs is located at an angular distance from the end point of the corresponding band. The angular position is constant across at least one of the first plurality of bands and the second plurality of bands. 
     In another embodiment, the non-customized standard array of brassieres includes a plurality of brassieres. Each brassiere of the plurality of brassieres includes a fabric band having a length identifier equaling a predetermined underbust size, and a cup pair attached to the fabric band. The cup pair includes a volume identifier corresponding to a predetermined breast volume. Each brassiere of the plurality of brassieres is identifiable by a consumer by the volume identifier and the length identifier. 
     Other aspects of the invention will become apparent by consideration of the detailed description and accompanying drawings. 
    
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
         FIG. 1  is a grading array for a non-customized, standard array of brassieres according to one embodiment of the present invention. 
         FIGS. 2-3  illustrate the process for constructing a girth band. 
         FIG. 4  illustrates the girth band as shown in  FIG. 3  laid flat in two dimensions. 
         FIG. 5 . illustrates a center-back to breast-side-crease distance measurement. 
         FIG. 6  illustrates one band from the grading array of  FIG. 1 , illustrating the positions of multiple cup sizes on the band. 
         FIGS. 7-17  illustrate the process for building a band pattern from the bands of the grading array of  FIG. 1 . 
         FIG. 18  illustrates multiple band patterns built from the grading array of  FIG. 1 , illustrating the different band patterns having a common band pattern length for accommodating different cup sizes. 
         FIG. 19  illustrates multiple band patterns built from the grading array of  FIG. 1 , illustrating different band pattern lengths for accommodating a common cup size. 
         FIG. 20  illustrates armatures associated with different cup sizes. 
         FIG. 21  illustrates one of a plurality of brassieres of a non-customized, standard array of brassieres manufactured from a fabric band generated from a corresponding band pattern, which was generated from a corresponding band of the grading array of  FIG. 1 . 
     
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
     Before any embodiments of the invention are explained in detail, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited in its application to the details of construction and the arrangement of components set forth in the following description or illustrated in the following drawings. The invention is capable of other embodiments and of being practiced or of being carried out in various ways. Also, it is to be understood that the phraseology and terminology used herein is for the purpose of description and should not be regarded as limiting. The use of “including,” “comprising,” or “having” and variations thereof herein is meant to encompass the items listed thereafter and equivalents thereof as well as additional items. 
       FIG. 1  illustrates a grading array  10  according to one embodiment of the present invention. The grading array  10  includes ten bands  14   a ,  14   b ,  14   c ,  14   d ,  14   e ,  14   f ,  14   g ,  14   h ,  14   i ,  14   j  corresponding to ten underbust measurement ranges (26 up to but not including 28 inches, 28 up to but not including 30 inches, 30 up to but not including 32 inches, 32 up to but not including 34 inches, 34 up to but not including 36 inches, 36 up to but not including 38 inches, 38 up to but not including 40 inches, 40 up to but not including 42 inches, 42 up to but not including 44 inches, and 44 up to but not including 46 inches, respectively). Each band  14  is used as a foundation to build a band pattern  118  and ultimately a fabric band  150  ( FIG. 21 ) for a brassiere  152 , and thus the grading array  10  is the foundation to build a non-customized, standard array of brassieres  152 . 
     The grading array  10  is based on three-dimensional measurement and analysis of the human anthropometric form. More specifically, the measurement and analysis relate to the female upper torso focusing on the volume of the breast and underbust shape to develop a sizing system for improved overall fit and comfort of brassieres  152  on women. The three-dimensional data is collected via laser scanning techniques, and in the present invention, involves the scanning of over 400 female bodies with their breasts unsupported. The over 400 female bodies is a representative sample of bodies within the female population. 
     As shown in  FIGS. 2-4 , the grading array  10  is developed in multiple stages. First, underbust measurements are assessed. In building the grading array  10 , the underbust measurements of the scanned participants ranged from 26.25 inches to over 50 inches. Using this information, the underbust measurement ranges for the grading array  10  are created at two-inch increments beginning at a 26-inch direct underbust measurement and ending at a 44-inch direct underbust measurement. In other embodiments, the grading array may have higher or lower measurement ranges for both the maximum and minimum ranges. The selected ranges on the grading array  10  offer an improved fit for a greater percentage of the female population over traditional brassiere sizes that presently range to fit underbust measurements of approximately 30 to 48-inches. 
     In order to generate the bands  14   a - 14   j  in the grading array, the scanned data is manipulated to create a brassier  152  that will sit lower on a back of a woman so as to keep the brassiere  152  from moving up on the back of the wearer while being worn. With reference to  FIG. 2 , for each scanned model having an underbust measurement within the 26 to 44 inch ranges a first horizontal plane  22  is placed at the location of the sixth rib. A second horizontal plane  26  is offset at, for example, a one-inch drop from the location of the sixth rib. In other embodiments, and depending on the bra style and design, the second horizontal plane may be offset by other measurements, including but not limited to, a greater or lesser offset than a one-inch drop from the location of the sixth rib. The first horizontal plane  22  and the second horizontal plane  26  are connected with a diagonal plane  30 . Next, as shown in  FIG. 3 , the diagonal plane  30  is moved downward one-inch to create a sloped plane  34  with a one-inch drop from center-front to center-back with reference to the scanned female torso. The sloped plane generates brassieres  152  that will reduce the rise generated during typical wear of the brassieres  152 . Next, a second diagonal plane  38  is created at, for example, a five-inch offset from the first diagonal plane to generate the girth band  25 . In other embodiments, and depending on bra style and design, the second diagonal plane may be offset by other measurements, including, but not limited to, a greater or lesser offset than a five-inch offset from the first diagonal plane. As shown in  FIG. 4 , the dimensions of the girth band  25  from the scanned model are then imported into a CAD software system to generate a two-dimensional girth band  25 . Essentially, the software opens the enclosed loop of the girth band  25  from the three-dimensional model of  FIG. 3 , separates the loop along the center back location, and lays the now-opened loop flat as shown in  FIG. 4 . 
     The angle  44  defined by the span of the girth band  25  is then measured, and averaged for all of the scanned models within the 26-inch to 44-inch underbust measurement ranges. Each girth band includes a first end point  46 , a second end point  50 , and a center point  54  that together define an arc or band  14 . The resulting angle  44  of all of the two-dimensional girth bands  25  measured along the arc  14  from a centerline  40  to an end of the girth band  25  has a mean of approximately 22.4 degrees and a median of approximately 23 degrees (i.e., an angle of 46 degrees is defined between the ends of the averaged girth band  25 ). Using the 23-degree angle from the centerline  40  as well as the averaged arc  14  from girth bands  25  of all the scanned models in each underbust measurement range, the three-point arcs  14   a - 14   j  were created for each of the underbust measurements ranges from 26 inches to 44 inches to give the basis of the grading array  10 . Each band  14  on the grading array  10  includes the first end point  46 , the second end point  50 , and the center point  54  of the averaged girth band  25  for that specific underbust measurement range. Each band  14   a - 14   j  has a substantially constant radius, and the radius of each band is different from the radii of the other bands in the grading array  10 . Further, the value of 23 degrees is used as the value for the angle  44 , which defines a first index line  11  on the grading array  10 . In other embodiments, the angle  44  is within the range of 15-30 degrees, and more particularly within the range of 20-25 degrees. 
     As shown in  FIG. 5 , the second stage is the review and assessment of center-back-to-breast-side-crease measurements, which will determine the breast cup  18  location on the grading array  10  and ultimately the breast cup location on the brassiere. First, the distance from the crease mark  62 , or the side of the breast tissue, of the left breast to the crease mark  66  of the right breast is measured for each of the scanned participants and averaged for all of the scanned models within each of the 26-inch to 44-inch underbust measurement ranges. In other words, these measurements are then segmented into each of the underbust measurement ranges. The distance of the crease-to-crease measurement  58  is divided in half, thereby yielding the distance from the center-back to the crease mark. The center-back to breast-side-crease measurements range from 8.2 inches to 15.16 inches. The minimum value of 8.3 inches corresponds to the arc  14   a  on the grading array, and increases in a non-linear fashion with every subsequent band to a value of 13.5 inches on the arc  14   j  of the grading array  10 . 
     Using this data, and measuring back on the bands  14  from the first index line  11 , second index lines  13 ,  15  are positioned on the grading array  10  at a constant pitch angle  48  over the bands  14  of the grading array  10 . The angle  48  is calculated as approximately 14.75 degrees. Pitch angle  48  is applied to both sides of the grading array  10  and defines portions of the band  14  commonly referred to as the left and right wing components of a brassiere. The sizes may be extended below 26 inches or beyond 44 inches, while keeping within the standard array index lines  13 ,  15  at 14.75 degrees and 23 degrees in order to accommodate specific markets. For example, a band size below 26 inches may be applicable to teenage or adolescent markets, whereas, a band size above 44 inches may be applicable to queen or plus-size markets. In some embodiments, the grading array may have a pitch angle  48  that is less than or greater than 14.75 degrees to account for any variances, such as including, but not limited to, fabric stretch, cultural population differences, style changes, but which will still produce a similar comfort-fitting brassiere. In other embodiments, the pitch angle is within the range of 5-25 degrees, or more particularly 10-20 degrees. 
     The third stage in building the grading array  10  is the review and assessment of breast volumes. The brassiere system utilizes the volume of the breast as one of the measurement components for brassiere selection. In the illustrated embodiment, there are eight volume groups identified in the standard array of brassieres  152  which are determined from statistical analysis and clustering effects of the data collected from the scanned study participants. Each volume group corresponds to a cup size  1 - 8  (represented in the Figures as  18 - 1 ,  18 - 2 ,  18 - 3 ,  18 - 4 ,  18 - 5 ,  18 - 6 ,  18 - 7 , and  18 - 8 ) containing the predetermined volume of the respective volume group. In other embodiments, the volume groups may be represented by their respective volume size, a color, a shape, a letter, a graphic, a name, or other type of identification. In contrast to the process of the present invention, traditional cup sizes in the US market are AA, A, B, C, D, DD, and E. Each cup is associated with numerous band sizes, and each cup size is not representative of a consistent volume because the volume of the cup size will vary between manufacturers as well as vary between band sizes for a single manufacturer. 
     To determine the breast volumes to build the grading array of the present invention, the left and right breasts of each scan participant are extracted from the torso of the initial data collection scan. The individual breast volumes of the participants are grouped according to clusters of volumes among participants. By clustering the volumes, the breast volumes fall into eight main volume groups as illustrated in Table 1 below. In other embodiments, additional volume groups may be added above or below the eight main volume groups illustrated in Table 1. 
     
       
         
           
               
               
               
             
               
                   
                 TABLE 1 
               
               
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Volume Group 
                 Volume (cc) 
               
               
                   
                   
               
             
            
               
                   
               
            
           
           
               
               
               
            
               
                   
                 1 
                 203 
               
               
                   
                 2 
                 348 
               
               
                   
                 3 
                 499 
               
               
                   
                 4 
                 658 
               
               
                   
                 5 
                 814 
               
               
                   
                 6 
                 994 
               
               
                   
                 7 
                 1154 
               
               
                   
                 8 
                 1332 
               
               
                   
                   
               
            
           
         
       
     
     With reference to Table 1, cup  18 - 1  relates to volume group 1, cup  18 - 2  relates to volume group 2, cup  18 - 3  relates to volume group 3, cup  18 - 4  relates to volume group 4, cup  18 - 5  relates to volume group 5, cup  18 - 6  relates to volume group 6, cup  18 - 7  relates to volume group 7, cup  18 - 8  relates to volume group 8. The actual volume of any cup  18 - 1 - 18 - 8  is the same regardless of the size of the brassiere to which it is associated. That is, the volume identifier for each cup represents the same volume regarding of the size of the brassiere it is attached. For example, cup  18 - 3  has a breast volume amount of 499 cc. This volume amount is constant for women with direct underbust measurements ranging from 28 up to but not including 30 inches to 42 up to but not including 44 inches (Table 3). In contrast, in traditional brassieres, 36DD and 44DD cups are not equivalent in cup volume capacity. Accordingly, in the traditional brassiere sizing system, there is no direct volume definition for a particular cup letter or volume identifier. Typically, the traditional brassiere sizing system grades cups in increments of quarter-inches that increases in four directions (North, South, East, West) from the center of the cup. 
     Furthermore, in comparison of volume to cup sizing, traditional cup sizing utilizes cross grading of cups. For example, in traditional brassiere sizing, the cup used for a 34C brassiere is also used for 36B brassiere. Table 2 illustrates typical cross grading of cups for traditional brassiere sizing methods. In Table 2 below, the same sized cups are used for all bras located within a particular column. 
     
       
         
           
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
             
               
                 TABLE 2 
               
               
                   
               
             
            
               
                 32A 
                 34A 
                 36A 
                 38A 
                 40A 
                   
                   
                   
                   
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 32B 
                 34B 
                 36B 
                 38B 
                 40B 
                 42B 
               
               
                   
                   
                 32C 
                 34C 
                 36C 
                 38C 
                 40C 
                 42C 
                 44C 
               
               
                   
                   
                   
                 32D 
                 34D 
                 36D 
                 38D 
                 40D 
                 42D 
                 44D 
               
               
                   
                   
                   
                   
                 32DD 
                 34DD 
                 36DD 
                 38DD 
                 40DD 
                 42DD 
                 44DD 
               
               
                   
               
            
           
         
       
     
     Unlike traditional brassiere sizing methods, the system of the present invention does not cross grade across volume groups. Although each of the eight volume groups can be represented in the each of the band sizes, it has been determined from statistical analysis that the underbust measurement and volume groupings illustrated in Table 3 are capable of fitting over approximately 85% of the female population. With reference to Table 3, the volumes per group are related back to the underbust measurement within the grading array  10 . 
     
       
         
           
               
               
             
               
                 TABLE 3 
               
             
            
               
                   
               
               
                 Underbust 
                 Volume Group 
               
            
           
           
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
            
               
                 Measurement 
                 1 
                 2 
                 3 
                 4 
                 5 
                 6 
                 7 
                 8 
               
               
                 (in) 
                 (203 cc) 
                 (348 cc) 
                 (499 cc) 
                 (658 cc) 
                 (814 cc) 
                 (994 cc) 
                 (1154 cc) 
                 (1332 cc) 
               
               
                   
               
               
                 26-28 
                 X 
                   
                   
                   
                   
                   
                   
                   
               
               
                 28-30 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 30-32 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 32-34 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 34-36 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 36-38 
                   
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 38-40 
                   
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 40-42 
                   
                   
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 42-44 
                   
                   
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                 44-46 
                   
                   
                   
                   
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
                 X 
               
               
                   
               
            
           
         
       
     
     With reference to  FIGS. 1 and 6 , the various brassiere cups  18  can then be located onto the grading array  10 . The grading array  10  provides for the proper and consistent placement of the cups  18  on the band  14  regardless of the underbust measurement or the cup size. As shown in  FIG. 6 , the band  14  (either  14   c  or  14   d ) can be associated with cups  18 - 2 - 18 - 8 . The cups  18 - 2 - 18 - 8  are placed onto the grading array  10  and represented by a circle (as determined by a ½ sphere having the same volume) onto the grading array  10 . For example, volume group 4 has a radius of 2.677 inches. The side of the circle  18  must lay tangent to the index line  13 ,  15  produced by the 14.75 degree pitch angle  48 . Additionally, the bottom of the circle  18  must touch the base line of the band  14 . This locating method is used for all bands  14  to position all the cups  18  that are associated with that particular band  14 . 
     Traditional brassiere design utilizes brassiere patterns that use the placement of the center-front to direct the location of the brassiere cups. Traditional brassiere design also does not use any angle to either place the brassiere cup or to produce the curvature of the band. As the center-front portion is graded taller for each increase in cup size, the placement of the brassiere cup changes to reflect the height of the center-front position. Accordingly, the curvature of the band and the placement of the brassiere cups are variable among brassiere designers and pattern makers. 
     With reference to  FIG. 1 , once the circle  18  with the corresponding diameter for the volume group is placed on the grading array  10 , the center-front measurement  70  (or bridge) is determined. The center-front measurement  70  is the band length  14 , minus the center-back to breast-side-crease measurements on the left and right sides minus the diameters of the cup circles  18  on the left and right sides. There are various center-front sizes of each band size similar to the plurality of volume groups for each band size. The center-front measurement contributes to central positioning of the breasts in an appropriate position for a given silhouette, which provides a more natural and comfortable position in the brassiere design. The center-front may be a fabric, metallic, plastic, or other material component. The center-front measurement  70  provides the bridge between the breast cups  18 . The process of the present invention contrasts with traditional brassiere patterning wherein the center-front is the first component utilized in pattern building and wherein the center-front component generally has minimal to no change in horizontal component when grading to a smaller or larger cup size. Rather, grading in the traditional systems is generally completed in the vertical component. 
       FIGS. 7-17  illustrate the process for developing a band pattern  118  from the grading array  10 . This process is completed with an electronic pattern processing system. First, with respect to  FIG. 7 , each band  14  is separated by size, and the volume group circles  18  are retained on the underband arc  14 . For example, band  14   a  has only one volume cup  18 - 1 , whereas band size  14   e  has seven volume cups  18 - 1 - 18 - 7 . The volume circles and bands  14  are linked for every possible combination of band  14  and volume group of the grading array  10  identified in Table 3.  FIG. 7  represents one such combination and the making of the band pattern  118  from the grading array  10  will be described relative to this combination. Is should be understood that all other band patterns can be generated from the remaining combinations in a similar manner. For example, band pattern  118   a  is generated from band  14   a , band pattern  118   b  is generated from band  14   b , and so on. Only one band pattern  118   a  is generated because it is only associated with a single cup size  18 A. In contrast, four distinct band patterns  118   b  are generated to accommodate the four different cup sizes available for the band  14   b  (cups  18 - 1 ,  18 - 2 ,  18 - 3 , and  18 - 4 ). 
     With reference to  FIG. 8 , a horizontal line  90  is drawn through the center of the circle  18 .  FIG. 9  shows a horizontal line  94  offset two inches from the center of circle  18 . With reference to  FIG. 10 , an arc  98  is created at, for example, a 0.5-inch offset up from the bottom band  14 . In other embodiments, and depending on bra style and design, the arc can be created at a greater or lesser offset than a 0.5-inch offset up from the bottom band. A line  102  is drawn from the intersection of the line  98  and index line  11  and the 2-inch offset horizontal line  94  and the index line  13  as shown in  FIG. 11 . Next, with reference to  FIG. 12 , a line  104  is drawn from the intersection of the index line  13  and the arc  98  perpendicular to the circle  18 . Line  104  splits the included angle between index line  13  and the arc  98  approximately in half. A curve  106  drawn from the intersection point of line  104  on the circle  18  to a point located one-inch downward on line  102  from index line  13 .  FIG. 14  shows another arc  110  is created at, for example, a 0.5-inch offset downward from the band  14 . In other embodiments, and depending on bra style and design, the arc may be offset at a greater or lesser offset than 0.5-inch offset downward from the bottom band.  FIG. 15  shows a new line  114  that is an extension of line  90  from the circle  18  to center line  40 .  FIG. 16  shows the completion of the pattern  118  by connecting lines along center line  40  and the line  11 . A new central line  40 A is added connecting the line  110  to the line  114  along line  40  and a new attachment end line  116  is added connecting the line  110  to line  102  along line  11 .  FIG. 17  shows the resultant band pattern template or band pattern  118  having a receiving area  23  for receiving a breast cup  18 .  FIG. 17  also shows the mirror image  118 A of the band pattern  118 , thereby creating a complete band pattern. As used herein, band pattern may refer to either the half band pattern  118 , or the complete band pattern as illustrated in  FIG. 17 . 
     As an example,  FIG. 18  shows six distinct band patterns  118   d  that corresponds to band  14   d  on the grading array  10 . The band patterns  118   d  of  FIG. 18  each includes a receiving areas  23  for receiving one of a plurality of volume cup sizes  18 - 1 ,  18 - 2 ,  18 - 3 ,  18 - 4 ,  18 - 5 , or  18 - 6  associated with the band  14   d .  FIG. 19  shows a plurality of band patterns  118   b ,  118   c ,  118   d ,  118   e ,  118   f ,  118   g ,  118   h ,  118   i  each including a receiving area  23  for receiving a volume cup size  18 - 4 . 
     As seen in  FIGS. 18 and 19 , attachment ends  116  are located on the end of the band patterns  118 . The attachment ends  116  represent the portions of the brassiere that will be connected together around the back of the wearer to hold the brassiere  152  onto the wearer. The attachment ends  130  each define an included angle that equals the angle  44  of about 23 degrees relative to the center line  40 A. In other embodiments, the included angle is within the range of 15-30 degrees, or more particularly 20-25 degrees. 
       FIG. 20  illustrates a plurality of armatures  82 - 1 ,  82 - 2 ,  82 - 3 ,  82 - 4 ,  82 - 5 ,  82 - 6 ,  82 - 7 , and  82 - 8  for assembly into the non-customized standard array of brassieres. The armature  82  is the subject of U.S. patent application Ser. No. 11/767,079, filed on Jun. 22, 2007 and entitled “ARMATURE FOR A BRASSIERE”, the entire contents of which are incorporated by reference. The armature  82  has a distal portion  126  that terminates at the side crease mark  62  of the breast  122 . A proximal portion  146  ends adjacent the center front distance  70 . 
       FIG. 21  illustrates the resultant fabric band  150  generated from the corresponding band pattern  118 . The fabric band  150  is used to build a non-customized standard brassiere  152  according to the grading array  10  of the present invention. The band pattern  118  may be scaled as necessary to account for fabric stretch such that the when the fabric is stretched by an acceptable stretching force, the stretched fabric will substantially match the original unscaled band pattern  118 . For example, the band pattern  118  can be scaled down, and then the fabric band can be cut from the scaled band pattern. As such, fabric tolerances and stretch factors are accounted for when preparing a fabric band  150  from a band pattern  118 , such that different fabric bands  150  may have different sizes based on the specific fabric characteristics even though they were generated from the same band pattern  118 . In other words, a fabric band  150  having a greater fabric stretch will be cut slightly smaller than a fabric band  150  with a lesser stretch in order to accommodate for the fabric tolerances, or fabric stretch ratios. 
     As shown in  FIG. 21 , the armatures  82  are inserted into pockets created in the fabric band  150  at the base of each breast cup  18 , which are then stitched to the fabric band  150 . In other embodiments, the armatures may be embedded into materials in the brassiere, such as foam. In still other embodiments, the armatures may be stitched onto the brassiere. In further embodiments, the armatures may be coupled to the brassiere depending on the brassiere style and design. The brassiere  152  can be completed with, but not limited to the following, straps  160 , adornments or other decoration. 
     The sizing identification system of the present invention utilizes a direct measurement of the girth, or underbust circumference rather than the indirect measurement found in traditional brassiere sizing. This system reduces consumer confusion regarding measurement and selection of the correct band size. The system involves direct measurement and requires no knowledge of a particular sizing equation or measurement manipulation for band selection in selection of a brassiere from one of the non-customized standard array of brassieres. Furthermore, the volume of each group directly corresponds to the volume obtained by using a measurement device for measuring breast volume such as, for example, a fabric sleeve. 
     In contrast to the direct measurement process of the present invention, band sizes for a traditional brassiere design are currently based on an approximately 30-inch to 48-inch band size. Traditional band size is based on direct underbust measurement with an additional four or five-inches added to the resultant band size to get an adjusted underbust size. Generally, four inches are added to an even underbust measurement, whereas, five inches are added to an odd underbust measurement. For example, a woman with a 30-inch direct underbust measurement would have a 34-inch final band size, and a woman with a 31-inch direct underbust measurement would have a 36-inch final band size. Next, the overbust, or bust at the fullest point, is measured in inches. The adjusted underbust is then subtracted from the overbust for a resultant value. The resultant value is then converted using Table 4 and used for traditional brassiere selection. 
     
       
         
           
               
               
             
               
                   
                 TABLE 4 
               
             
            
               
                   
                   
               
               
                   
                 Cup Size 
               
            
           
           
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
            
               
                   
                 AA 
                 A 
                 B 
                 C 
                 D 
                 DD 
                 E 
               
               
                   
                   
               
            
           
           
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
               
            
               
                 Resultant Value 
                 −1 
                 0 
                 1 
                 2 
                 3 
                 4 
                 5 
               
               
                   
               
            
           
         
       
     
     The commercially available brassieres of the present invention will be identifiable to a consumer by both the underband size and the breast volume measurement. For example, the commercially available, non-customized, standard array of brassieres will be identifiable by an underbust size range, such as 28-30, and a volume group, such as Group 1, Red, and the like. Accordingly, the consumer will be able to select from one of a plurality of non-customized, standard array of brassieres directly related to body measurements to provide a comfortable and well-fitted bra based on a sizing system that is easy for a consumer to understand. 
     For example, a consumer is sized for a particular brassiere size of the non-customized standard array of brassieres by first measuring the underbust (i.e., 29 inches). Next, the band size range is determined (i.e., 28-30). The breast size is then measured using a measurement device (i.e., 400 cc breast size measurement), and the cup size is determined. For example and with reference to Table 3, a 400 cc breast size measurement would likely use a volume group 2 cup size (348 cc). Alternatively, a consumer with a 400 cc breast size measurement may also try a volume group 3 cup size (499 cc). Finally, the band size and cup size measurements enable a consumer to select a suggested brassiere by comparison of ranges and sizes without mathematical manipulation of the measurements (i.e., a brassiere having a 28-30 underbust measurement with a volume group 2 cup size). 
     Various features and advantages of the invention are set forth in the following claims.