Source: https://eoceanic.com/sailing/routes/europe/ireland/26/southwest_coast_%28clockwise%29%3B_northbound_from_mizen_head_to_sybil_point
Timestamp: 2019-04-18 20:35:55+00:00

Document:
This is the primary coastal description and set of waypoints for the area between Mizen Head and Loop Head. The detailed coastal description may be used by those planning to come closer inshore or to approach one of the useful passage havens that are listed along the length of the route. The sequence of description is from south to north or coastal clockwise.
The preceding southwestern coast's set of waypoints and coastal description is available by clicking 'Previous', above, and vessels planning on continuing northwards, into the Shannon and beyond, can find the following sets of waypoints and coastal descriptions by clicking 'Next'.
This is a coastal sequence for cruisers who want to stay out in safe water but easily turn in and explore the simply beautiful islands, deep bays and estuaries this coast has to offer.
The ninety miles of coastline between Mizen Head and Loop Head is characterised by bold mountainous peninsulas with deeply indented bays. Taking the full violence of the North Atlantic’s prevailing gales it is subject to heavy seas and swell.
This has created an irregular broken aspect, indented with several deep bays and estuaries that make it a perfect cruising haven. The deep inlets abound in safe anchorages with easy access and navigation is relatively easy as, although the headlands are fringed with outlying rocks and islands, they have deep water close to them with few hidden dangers. The area is also particularly beautiful; most of the coast is bordered by rock and cliff shorelines, with some of the headlands, bays and coves fringed with white sandy beaches. The coastal area to the north of Sybil Point has an added accent on the white sandy beaches lapped by turquoise waters and is outstandingly beautiful.
Offshore dangers and islands are few off this coastline. Dursey Island resides immediately west of its promontory with The Bull that has several detached rocks in its vicinity. The Skelligs, consisting of two conspicuous pinnacle rocky islets, lie about fourteen miles northwest of The Bull. Little Skellig also has the Lemon Rock sea stack a couple miles to the northeast.
The great tidal wave from the Atlantic Ocean splits a little to the south of the Skelligs, and sets in two separate paths around the island of Ireland. One part goes to the north, sweeping round the northwest coasts and enters the Irish Sea by the North Channel. The other part goes to the east, rounding Cape Clear to enter the Irish Sea by the South Channel. Seven hours after the separation occurred the two streams flow together again in the vicinity of St. John’s Point, to the south of Strangford Lough. Along the west and south coasts the stream is weak seldom exceeding a maximum of 1 to 1.5 knots, but as the Irish Sea’s constricting north and south channels are approached the flows acquire a higher velocity. This is particularly the case in the North Channel, where it runs at a rate of 6 knots on springs.
Cruisers should pay particular attention to the areas excellent weather forecasting and not risk a gale at sea; over what would most likely be a lee shore. On the first appearance of a change, seek shelter in one of the host of harbours the coast has to offer. Marine farming in and around this coastal area is rapidly growing. Large steel-jointed fish cages with tubular rubber sides, are marked on the charts but may be placed anywhere, and the structures are hardly visible. Each cage is required to be marked by two yellow flashing lights and a radar reflector.
The complete course is 94.93 miles from the waypoint '½ a mile southwest of Mizen Head' to '2 miles west of Loop Head' tending in a northerly direction (reciprocal southerly).
This is immediately outside the races that form, in both directions, of Mizen Head. The headland is made conspicuous lighthouse on a concrete platform, Iso.W 4s 44m 15M, with the lantern visible 313° - 133° T.
This is a 21 metres high rock that lies ¾ of a mile to the southwest of Dursey Head. Calf, with its off-lying Heifer about half its size and height, has a red unlighted iron pillar and the stub of a lighthouse destroyed in 1881.
This 89 metres high remote and mighty pyramid shaped rock that that lies 2½ miles west-northwest of Dursey Head. Detached rocks lie out to 600 metres west from The Bull, terminating at the 6.1 metres high Gull Rock. Bull Rock Light, Fl 15s W Vis 220°-186° (326°), a white 15 metres tower stands on the seaward side of The Bull.
The 214 metres Great Skellig shows a light, from a 12 metre high white tower Fl (3) 15s, that stands on the islands southwestern extremity. The light is sectored to cover Little Skellig and Lemon Rock, West Vis 262°-115° (213°), the inshore dangers.
Great Foze Rock is a rugged little islet that lies about three miles south-southwest of Tearaght Island that carries a lighthouse. About 120 metres wide and 27 metres high it carries no light.
The small precipitous 179 metre high Tearaght Island lies almost three miles west of the southwestern end of Great Blasket Island and it is the most westerly and remote of all the Blasket Islands. It is steep-to all round, except to the west, where some high, detached rocks and islets lie about ¾ of a mile westward of the island's western extremity. The western side of the island has the prominent Inishtearaght Light, a white 17 metres high tower that stands at an elevation of 84 metres, Fl (2) 20s W Vis 318°-221° (263°).
Sybil Point sheer cliffs lie about a mile from Clogher Head, and nearly in the same line of direction from Dunmore Head, and to the north of Great Blasket Island. It is surmounted by a ruined telegraph tower at an elevation 126 metres.
Mizen Head is one of Ireland's extreme points that was, for many seafarers, the first (or last) sight of Europe. The headland is made conspicuous by its remarkable 229 meters high Mizen Peak located about a mile to the northeast. This sharp peak is the highest hill in the vicinity and about halfway between Mizen Head and the peak a ruined tower can be seen at an elevation of 128 metres.
Mizen Head has a light shown from a light structure on a concrete platform with the lantern visible 313°-133°.
The tip of the peninsula is almost an island, cut off by a deep chasm, is spanned by a bridge that gives access to the lighthouse and weather station.
Two miles to the north of Mizzen Head, sloping down from the height of 111 metres to a low black point is Three Castle Head that forms the south point of the entrance to Dunmanus Bay. 700 metres to the west of Three Castle Head is South Bullig Rock. It has 4.6 metres of water over it and from 29 to 35 metres close around it. The seas break in bad weather around South Bullig and it should be kept clear of in any stiff weather conditions. The small and open bay Dunlough Bay, residing between Mizzen and Three Castle Heads, is exposed to the prevailing winds and offers no shelter.
The long narrow Dunmanus Bay is an Atlantic Ocean inlet situated between Mizen Head, to the south, and Bantry Bay to the north. It is entered four miles north of Mizen Head between Three Castle Head and Sheep’s Head, a distance of about 3.5 miles apart. The bay extends easterly for a distance of 12 miles inland up to the small village of Durrus at the head of the bay within Dunbeacon Harbour. Details for the run up the long and narrow Dunmanus Bay are covered in the Dunbeacon Harbour entry.
Approaching the bay from seaward several prominent mountain peaks can be identified. On the north shore there is the 340 meters high Caher Mountain, located about 4.8 miles northeast of Sheep’s Head, then the 342 metre high Seefin two mile northwest, and the 302 metres high Gouldane a further 2 miles to the northwest. On the southern shore there are the 205 metres high Cruckna Sassenagh, located about 1.8 miles east-northeast of Three Castle Head, then the 311 metres high Knocknamaddree 2.5 miles to the northeast, and then 1.7 miles further east-northeast is the 235 metres high Knockaphuca.
Many coastal cruising sailors overlook Dunmanus Bay for fear of being trapped in the deep inlet by a strengthening of the prevailing south westerlies. But Dunmanus Bay affords ample room and safe anchorages. At about midway Kitchen Cove , plus its facing Dunmanus Harbour and Dunbeacon Harbour , at the head of the Dunmanus Bay cul-de-sac provide more than serviceable havens that warrant a visit as part any southern Ireland cruise. If vessels are time-bound a good weather window would be required to visit any of Dunmanus Bay’s havens. Especially so the inner havens that are situated close to the head of the bay. For those constrained by time, though good shelter may be found, it would, however, be difficult to sail out of the bay against an inauspicious strengthening of the prevailing wind to meet a schedule.
The bold and rugged Sheep Head resides at the extremity of the long and narrow promontory that separates Dunmanus and Bantry Bays, about 3.5 miles north of Three Castle Head. Rising to an elevation of 168 metres within ½ a mile inland it stands conspicuous when viewed from the southwest, where it is easily recognised from seaward. A lighthouse resides on its extremity with a sectored light R007°-017° (10°), W017°-212° (195°).
The only danger near it is Bullig Rock, lying 300 metres from the point, with 6.2 metres of water over it and 18 to 30 metres of water 400 metres outside it.
Immediately north of Sheep’s Head is Bantry Bay that is entered between it and Black Ball Head, located 7.5 miles west-northwest. It is from 3 to 4 miles wide and extends into the land about 18 miles in an easterly direction. Depths gradually decrease from 50 metres at the entrance, between Sheep Head and Bear Island, to 27 metres at the head of the bay, over a clean bottom. Being free from fairway dangers and with scarcely any tidal stream it is very easily accessed. It is however exposed to the effects of westerly winds, but against these, the harbours of Bearhaven, on the north shore, and those of Whiddy and Glengarriff near the head of the bay, provide complete protection with equally safe and convenient access.
The south shore of the bay, formed by the Sheep’s Head promontory, presents a series of rugged inaccessible precipices, steep-to and free from danger. Off Glanalincoosh, 7 miles to the east of the head and 600 metres from the shore, there is a rocky patch with 9.3 metres of water, upon which the sea often breaks in gales.
To the east of this, the shore may be approached to 300 metres. ¾ of a mile of Reen Point when it the only obstacle is a well-covered rock with 2.6 metres over it lying 300 metres off but this is of little concern to cruising vessels.
The mountain range of Gouladane, rising to heights in excess of 340 metres at ½ a mile from the shore, occasions heavy squalls with southerly and south-east winds.
The north shore is of the same mountainous character as the south, but more indented. The Slieve Miskish Mountains, will be sighted from a great distance from seaward. The key mountains that present themselves from the range are the 486 metres high Knockgour, with a television mast at its peak, located about 3.2 miles to the northeast of Black Ball Head. The 487 metres high Knockoura resides about 0.8 mile to the north-northeast and a further 1.5 miles northeast the 384 metres high Miskish. Finally, the most significant mountain of Hungry Hillis easy to identify being 682 metres high. Notable for a pyramid on its summit, it rises about 6.5 miles east-northeast of Miskish and to the northwest of Bear Island.
Five miles to the west of Bear Island, Black Ball Head is a prominent feature when approaching the bay. It stands 81 metres high and crowned by the ruins of an old signal tower. About 135 metres offshore and to the west of the head is Gull Rock that can be clearly seen above water. Black Ball Harbour, a little creek on the west side of the head, affords shelter for small fishing boats.
During strong northwest winds this entire area is subject to heavy squalls, that vessels passing along shore must be prepared for.
Four miles to the east of the head the west entrance to Bearhaven opens. The coast between is composed of precipices of varying height that are free from dangers out beyond 200 metres. Pulleen Harbour, or Blind Harbour, is a little inlet between the cliffs situated 1.25 miles to the west of Bearhaven’s western entrance, for which it has sometimes been mistaken. It affords no practical shelter except for open fishing boats.
The Slieve Miskish Mountain ranges, rising to an elevation of over 304 metres ½ a mile inland, causing heavy squalls in south to south-easterly wind conditions.
About 4.5 miles north of Sheep’s Head the high and rugged Bear Island rises to 209 metres at its western summit, where a conspicuous ruin of an old telegraph tower stands. A mile to the east of it the island rises to its 270-meter high central summit Knockanalling to descend gradually towards the eastern point. A mile east-northeast of Knockanalling, upon a 164 metres high crest, is a conspicuous Martello tower. Another prominent Martello tower will be seen on a 95-metre high crest on the southern shore. This is located about 1½ miles east-southeast from the higher tower and to the north of Cloonaghlin Head.
Bear Island can be difficult to identify at a distance when viewed against the high land that forms its background. On closer approaches, the Martello towers serve to define the outline of the island.
Bear Island’s southern shore is steep and cliffy, especially so on its western side, with deep water close to the breakers. Off its middle part of the island, at about 200 metres from the shore, lies the 12-metre high Greenane Rock, and 200 metres further to the south of it a smaller rock, about 0.9 metres high, called the Feagh Rock.
½ to the east of these rocks and about 800 metres southwest of Cloonaghlin Head, distinguished by the aforementioned Martello tower, there is a rocky patch with 7.3 metres of water that breaks in westerly gales.
The east extreme of the island, Lonehort Point is low, shelving, and ill-defined. The remains of an old pile lighthouse may still be seen on the point. It terminates in a dangerous reef, very much in the way of vessels going into Bearhaven by the east entrance.
The highest part of this reef is called Carrigavaddra. It is situated 800 metres southeast from Lonehort Point and is just covered on neap tides. It is marked by an unlighted beacon upon a 2.7-metre high rocky area ½ a mile southeast of Lonehort Point.
1¼ miles to the east of Lonehort Point there are some detached rocks and islets, the largest of which is Roancarrigmore Island. This low, 6 metres high, flat-capped island is reef-fringed, but steep-to and clear from danger beyond 200 metres to its south and west sides. A lighthouse stands on the island with a white round tower with a black band - alongside are buildings enclosed by a prominent white wall and a flagstaff stands close west.
A ¼ of a mile to the north of it there is a rock called Roancarrigbeg. It consists of several above-water rocks surrounded by reefs, from which a rocky shoal extends halfway across to the island.
The Deucalia Rocks, uncovered on last quarter ebb, lie a ½ mile to the east of Roancarrigmore Island. The lighthouse in line with Coarrid Point, on the north side of Bearhaven, as marked on Admiralty chart 1840, leads to the south of all these.
The well-covered Bulliga Ledge, with 3.7 metres of water, lies ½ a mile northeast of the Doucallia Rock, and 600 metres southeast of Bulliga Point. There are deep channels between these dangers and also between them and the mainland, and leisure craft tend to pass outside them all.
Formed by the strait that separates Bear Island from the mainland is the excellent harbour of Bearhaven that provides shelter to all vessels from all wind direction. It is spacious with easy access and has good holding ground. With its ocean proximity, accompanied by a host of resources, it is an attractive and well-used sailing destination. Castletown Bearhaven , stands on the shore of a little creek in the northwest corner of the harbour.
There are two entrances to Bearhaven, one round the western end of Bear Island, and the other from the east between Carrigavaddra and Roancarrigmore Island. Both are straightforward but the eastern is wider and deeper entrance and is as such preferred. With the exception of the well-covered George Rock, about 1.7 miles within the east entrance, the fairway is clear of dangers.
Bearhaven’s east entrance is ¾ of a mile wide with from 17 to 32 metres of water. Access is easy and a vessel may work through it at any time without difficulty, as there is very little tidal stream in it. The buildings on the north side of the island will be seen on approach.
Coming in by the east entrance, after rounding Carrigavaddra, there is no danger in a mid-channel course until the well-covered George Rock buoy is approached. This is a small bank of coarse ground that has 7 metres of water. Lying 1.5 miles to the west of Lonehort Point it resides near the middle of the haven and is marked by a lit buoy.
The north side of Lonehort Point is foul, with 2.7 metres of water 300 metres out from it. The opposite shore of the mainland is also foul, with a bank with 1 to 1.8 metres of water stretching 400 metres to the south-east of Carriglea Point.
1½ miles to the west of Lonehort Point, Lawrence’s Cove provides an anchorage, moorings and marina.
Its shores are rocky and foul, particularly on the east side of the cove, where the Palmer Rock resides, 600 metres northeast of Turk Island and 300 metres offshore, with 1.8 metres of cover.
Plus ½ a mile east-northeast off the northern mainland the haven has Hornet Rock, with 1.2 metres of water. This lies at the outer end of a shoal that extends 400 metres south from the western entrance point of Mill Cove. A lighted south cardinal buoy is moored 135 metres to the southeast of the rock.
Between Hornet Rock and Dinish Island the north side of Bearhaven is fringed by rocks, shoals, and other dangers.
Bearhaven’s west entrance, is entered between Fair Head and Ardnakinna Point. It resides between high precipitous shores that are 400 metres apart with a least depth of 7.9 metres in the fairway. About ½ a mile within the entrance, between Piper Point and Naglas Point, is the narrowest part of the channel that is 228 metres wide.
Doonbeg Head, a prominent 84-metre high headland, located l.2 miles east southeast of Ardnakinna Point, also helps identify the entrance.
The west entrance is subject to baffling winds and a heavy ground swell, and should not, therefore, be attempted under sail without a leading wind.
The entrance has supporting beacons and leading lights all the way into Castletown Bearhaven harbour. The first set leads up to Dinish Island then a second into the inner harbour itself.
The first set of leading lights will be seen approaching the entrance on a bearing of 024°T up to Dinish Island. Located about 1.7 miles north-northeast of Ardnakinna Point the island lies on the north side of Bearhaven and is connected by a bridge to the mainland.
This is a 6 metres high white concrete hut with a red stripe situated on the southwest end of the island. There is also a hut on the mainland, about 0.3 miles beyond, with a 12 metres high beacon. By day the alignment of the hut and beacon are (red with white vertical stripes on lighthouse) and at night the white sector with the sectored light as follows: G 019.5°-023° (3.5°), W 023°-023.5° (0.5°), R 023.5°-027° (3.5°).
There are few rocks within the west entrance that present any danger to leisure craft. The key rocks passed are all deep; the pinnacle of Harbour Rock, a ⅓ of a mile north-northeast of Piper Point immediately west of the fairway, has 3.7 metres of cover. Walter Scott Rock, lies at the outer end of the foul ground, extending from the south side of Dinish Island with 2.7 metres of water over it, resides 400 metres southwest of Dinish Island and is marked by a south cardinal.
The rock that leisure craft must pay attention to is Colt Rock that is detached and dries to 2.1 metres on last quarter ebb. The rock is marked by a distinctive Colt Rock Marker that stands on the rock; red with a red horse and rider figure on top.
Colt Rock - perch (unlighted) position: 51° 38.068’N 009° 55.087’W.
Colt Rock lies abreast of Dunboy Bay , where an anchorage can be found. It is 200 metres west of the fairway channel and opposite Fort Point on Bear Island.
On the Bear Island side, Fort Point, distinguished by a battery and square blockhouse, is foul out to 200 metres off, as is also the shore to the east of it as far as Sheep Island.
These are the Foilnaboe Rocks that dry out to a height of 1.8 metres and are marked by a lighted starboard buoy.
Long Point, extends in a westerly direction from Sheep Island, is covered at high water, and should not be approached too close. Apart from these two parts the dangers on the east side of the fairway do not reach out beyond 200 metres of the west side of Bear Island.
Between Sheep Island and Walter Scott Rock on the north side, the channel is not more than 300 metres wide and is the narrowest part of the haven.
Continuing east from Bear Island, Bulliga Point is on the north side of the bay, about a 1½ miles northeast of the east entrance to Bear Haven.
A ½ a mile northeast of Bulliga Point, and 1½ miles to the east of Roancarrigmore lighthouse, is the very pleasant inlet than forms Adrigole Harbour . Orthons Island is located in the middle of the harbour, and is surrounded by sunken rocks with the deep water channel is between it and the east shore.
Leisure craft may obtain an anchorage to the east of Orthons Island or further to the north in the centre of the bay. Vessels should keep 200 metres north of the island, to avoid offlying northern outcrops, and entirely avoid the area between the west side of the island and the bay’s western shore as it is completely obstructed. The northern shore of the harbour dries out.
Two miles east of Bulliga Point, is the steep-to Shot Head. A temporary shelter may be obtained to the northwest of it during easterly winds. Between Shot Head and Sheelane Islet, about 3.2 miles, the shore is steep-to and free of dangers. The shore between Sheelane Islet and Four Heads Point to the northeast is fringed by foul grounds and the area has two lighted port hand markers Sheelane South and Coulagh Rocks. However from Adrigole harbour to the east as far as Cowdy Point, at the entrance of Glengarriff Harbour, the shore is clear out beyond a distance of a 200 metres and steep-to.
Famed for its scenic beauty Glengarriff Harbour is on the north side of Bantry Bay, opposite to Whiddy Island, and presents two good anchorages, an inner and an outer. The former, sheltered by the island of East Garinish and its outlying rocks, affords perfect security against all winds and sea, whilst the outer harbour affords good summer anchorage. Garinish Island, also known as Ilnacullin, has Italian Gardens which may be visited.
The shore at the head of Bantry Bay, lying between Glengarriff and Whiddy Harbours, is generally subject to a heavy swell that breaks violently over its outlying rocks. The dangers are contained within 400 metres of the shoreline.
An obelisk stands on the southwest end of an islet called Illauncreeveen close southeast of Gun Point. A small beacon stands on Yellow Rocks about ½ a mile farther southeast. 350 metres west-southwest of this beacon, a ¼ of a mile from the shore, and ¾ of a mile to the south of Gun Point are the drying to 1.1 metres but steep-to Morneen Rocks.
The rocky 1.2 metres high islet of Carrigskye resides nearly ½ a mile to the south of Morneen Rocks and can be identified by its breakers. This is the outer end of a rocky spit that extends about 0.4 miles offshore and should not be approached nearer than 600 metres.
Castle Breaker is ¾ of a mile to the southwest and about 400 metres southwest of Ardnamanagh Point. Located on the north side of the approach to Whiddy Harbour this detached patch of rock has 3.6 metres of water. In the north arm of Whiddy Harbour, about 1 mile northeast of Whiddy Point East, there is a rock called Carrignagappul that dries 1.8 metres.
Situated opposite to Glengarriff Harbour at the southeast end of Bantry Bay is Whiddy Island. The island is distinguished by three conspicuous circular forts plus Bantry Bay Oil Terminal’s several prominent oil tanks and offshore terminal at the southwest end of the island. Steep-to on its northwest side the island is of a moderate height.
Its east point is clear of danger and may be rounded at a distance of 200 metres. From its west end, low reefy rocks, about a metre high, extend for ½ a mile. The strait within Whiddy Island provides a secure and well-sheltered anchorage for all sailing craft. However, its area is contracted by a number of small islands that occupy the middle of the strait. The part lying to the north of these islands, called Whiddy Harbour, has easy access and is well sheltered by Whiddy Island. Vessels seeking shelter here in westerly gales may freely round Whiddy Point East at a distance of 200 metres, and anchor behind the northeast point of the island. Castle View, a white two-story house in the village of Ballylicky, 1.8 miles northeast of Whiddy Point East, will be conspicuous to vessels approaching the northeast corner of the island.
It is prohibited to pass between Whiddy Island and the terminal, a platform about 396 metres offshore, due to the submarine high tension cables and pipelines laid between the jetty and the shore. A tanker mooring buoy, surrounded by a restricted area and a prohibited anchorage area, clearly marked on Admiralty chart 1838, resides about 0.6 of a mile north of the terminal.
The east shore of the strait is foul to a cable's distance, and the islands are surrounded by foul ground, but there are deep channels between them, and also between them and the eastern shore, leading to the southern part of the strait known as Bantry Harbour .
Bantry Harbour provides protection against all winds and sea in 4 to 6 metres of water, on a level muddy bottom. It connects to the outer bay by a channel to the west and to the north. The western entrance may only be used in good conditions as it has a 2-metre bar, just seaward of the narrowest point, that sometimes breaks, plus the Cracker Rock with 1.7 metres of water lying just outside the bar.
The best approach to Bantry Harbour the northern approach, by the channel between the islands and the east shore, which is 300 metres wide, with from 6 to 12 fathoms water. The north entrance is straightforward; once around Whiddy Island’s northeasternmost point all that is required is to follow the channel markers in and then drop down on the anchorage. As mentioned above Whiddy Point East may be rounded close in but all other islands in the harbour are generally foul all round out to 300 metres in some cases. From Whiddy Point East simply track the markers into the channel picking up and leaving the Horse Lt buoy to starboard, Gurteenroe to port and then Chapel to starboard.
East of Whiddy Island vessels will find a host of unlit oyster and mussel fishing rafts plus, in autumn, shrimp pots. These floating structures, some simple lines of barrels, are low, often unmarked and sometimes hard to see. The harbour commissioners do not allow these to encroach on the channel but they are always close by. Do not pass close to any rafts you may encounter as floating mooring lines may extend some distance. As a result, it is not advisable to make a night entry or in very poor visibility without local knowledge.
The western entrance may only be used in good conditions as it has a 2-metre bar, just seaward of the narrowest point, which sometimes breaks. Tidal streams in the western pass reach 1.5 knots where, by comparison, you would only find up to ½ a knot in the northern entrance. Also outside the bar is Cracker Rock that has only 1.7 metres of cover.
Four miles to the west of Black Ball Head is the 74 metres high Crow Head. This distinctive narrow finger of land extends out from the mainland for about a mile to the southwest.
The drying Cat Rock resides about 400 metres southwest of the extremity of the head. This rock is very much in the way of vessels moving between Bantry Bay and Dursey Sound and generally makes itself known by breakers.
1½ miles west-northwest of Crow Head Dursey Island is readily identified by an old signal tower on its summit. The 250 metres high island is 3½ miles long and is connected to the mainland by cable car (the only such in Ireland) at Dursey Sound.
The deep but narrow channel Dursey Sound, resides between the island’s eastern end and the mainland. It is a narrow rock-strewn stretch of water with a tidal race that is open to the Atlantic Ocean on either end. In favourable conditions, the sound offers leisure craft interesting sailing and a shortcut from the Kenmare River in and out of Bantry Bay and waypoints and tidal timings are available in the Routes entry Navigating through Dursey Sound .
There is also the ability to avail of a temporary anchorage 800 metres to the southeast of the narrows in very settled conditions.
Dursey Head is subject to 3.5-knot currents at springs. Careful navigation is required and in this context, it may also present a challenge in boisterous conditions. Exposed to the Atlantic Ocean on either side there can be a large seaway running that is further complicated by shifting and funnelling winds over tide, it should be noted that this is not a foul weather shortcut.
2½ miles west-northwest of Dursey Head, the headland at the outer tip of Dursey Island, is The Bull. This 89 metres high remote rock is the outer islet lying west of Dursey Island with a lighthouse complex on top. Precipitous and steep-to when viewed from the east it appears as a mighty pyramid. The rock is perforated in an east-west direction by an arched cavern. The sides of this cavern are even and smooth as glass and it carries a depth of 9 metres. Detached rocks lie out to 600 metres west from The Bull, terminating at the 6.1metres high Gull Rock. Bull Rock Light, a white 15 metres tower stands on the seaward side of The Bull W Vis220°-186° (326°).
Halfway between Dursey Head and The Bull lies The Cow islet or Oileán Baoi. 62 metres high it and surrounded by sheer walls it has a mighty sea arch off its northeast side. Along the south side of the island lies a thin, offshore rock also called Gull Rock. The Cow is a steep-to pinnacle rock with depths of 30 metres 100 metres of and fairways on either side that are clear of dangers.
The tidal currents in between The Cow and Dursey Island are strong and trigger breaking seas in heavy weather.
Two above-water rocks lie close together about ¾ of a mile to the southwest of Dursey Head. These are the 21 metres high Calf, with its off-lying Heifer, about half its size and height. The Calf has a red iron pillar and the stub of a lighthouse destroyed in 1881.
Extending out about 300 metres from Dursey Head towards The Calf is a dangerous rock called Lea Rock that dries to 3.4 metres. The passage between The Calf and Lea Rock is about ½ a mile wide and the tidal streams sets through it at a rate of 3.5 kn at springs.
On the north side of the Dursey promontory the coast falls back to the east towards Kenmare River. Between Dursey Sound and Cod’s Head, situated nearly three miles to the east, it forms a deep bay, in which are two bays, that are visited by leisure craft.
The first of these creeks, in the western corner of the bay, derives partial shelter from the three small rocky islands is Garnish Bay . Its area is, however, much reduced by the Carrigduff Rock, that lies in the most sheltered part of the bay, uncovers at half-tide and is marked by a 5 to 7 metres high concrete beacon. 2½ miles to the east of Garnish Bay, Ballydonegan Bay is of a more exposed and dangerous character.
About five miles northeast of Dursey Island, Cod’s Head, formed by a spur from the Knocknagallaun Mountain, presents a rocky sterile appearance. Terminating to the west, in vertical cliffs from 90 to 100 metres high, it is steep-to with from 30 metres of water a distance of 200 to 400 metres off.
On the north side of the Dursey Promontory is the deep and narrow Kenmare River inlet that penetrates the land, in an easterly direction, for a distance of 28 miles. Its initial entrance is between Dursey Island and Scariff Island an opening that is 7.5 miles wide. The inlet is properly entered between Cod’s Head and Lamb’s Head, on the north shore, where it is 4 miles wide, with a general depth of 60 metres water. Inside its rocky and indented shores are generally foul, and must be approached with caution; but there is no danger near a mid-channel course until the Maiden Rock is approached, 18 miles within the entrance.
There is plenty of shelter to be found in the Kenmare River’s host of bays that line each shore, and near the head of the inlet, there is safe anchorage. The difficulty is of getting to sea again against the prevailing southwesterly winds. This should be considered before deciding to cruise this otherwise lovely sailing destination.
The land on the north side of the entrance, like that on its south side, is bold and conspicuous, rising to elevations of from 400 to 500 metres. Lamb’s Head, forming the western point of the mainland on this side, is 101 metres high, with some high detached rocks at its base, but no outlying danger beyond 100 metres.
From Lamb’s Head to Illaunnaweelaun Island, one mile to the east along the shore, the shoreline is clear of danger. But between Illaunnaweelaun Island and the 9 metres high Daniel Island, a distance of 3.5 miles further to the east, it is encumbered with numerous dangers that extend out for a considerable distance off.
The first of these is the awash Brigbeg, otherwise know as Bulligmore. It lies a ¼ of a mile to the east of Illaunnaweelaun Island; in the bay within it are two other dangerous rocks, Bulligbeg and Carrigbeg, all of which are generally identifiable by their breakers.
The Beara Rocks, covered at high water but dry to 3 metres, extend 600 metres offshore at the foot of a sharp peak of the 116 high Knocknasulig that is conspicuous to a vessel coming round Lamb head. This mountain forms the western boundary of the dangerous bays of Castle Cove and West Cove.
The two rocky indentations of West Cove and Castle Cove are full of rocks and shoals, most of which cover at high water. When there is any swell up these rocks present a confused mass of breakers, between which it is often impossible to navigate a vessel with any degree of safety. However in fine weather and approached in settled conditions with a vessel operating under power, West Cove is an exceptional anchorage.
A group of dangerous rocks lies in front of these coves, extending ½ a mile to the southwest of Daniel Island with the outer rock being called Carrigheela. They all cover at high water springs except the inner one called the Grampus, which is always above water. Their position is generally indicated by the breakers, which when the sea is up are visible from a long way off. Within them, to the north side, small craft sometimes anchor in fine weather in 7 to 17 metres of water.
A stranger to this coast should stay ¾ of a mile out or in deeper that 30 metres of water.
For a distance of 1½ miles to the east of Daniel Island the shore is fronted by a series of islets. Illaundrane, the most eastern of these, affords shelter to the Bunnow Harbour, where leisure craft can find 3 metres of water. The whole shore here is strewn with rocks and should not be approached by a stranger any closer than 600 metres.
From this to Illaunleagh, 1.75 miles further to the east, the shore is free from danger and may be approached to 400 metres. Lying close to the shore this little island is scarcely noticed in passing. Immediately to the east of it, outstanding to near the middle of the inlet, is the 34 metres high Sherky Island that form the western limit of Sneem Harbour.
Approaching Kenmare River’s southern shore, the deep and dangerous Coulagh Bay opens up upon rounding Cod Head. Its rocky shores, backed by high mountain ranges, terminate to the northwest in the green 45-metre high island of Inishfarnard. To the west of Inishfarnard two very dangerous rocks projecting towards an advancing vessel.
The westernmost of these, with 1.5 metres of water over it, is Stickeen or Steeple Rock. It lies about ½ a mile to the west from the westernmost point of Inishfarnard.
The other rock uncovers at last quarter ebb, drying to 1.2 metres, is called Bulligabridane and it resides 200 metres from the point. Between Bulligabridane and Stickeen there is 26 metres of water.
To pass to the west of Stickeen, a clearing marks can be had by keeping the line of bearing 220°(T) astern of the tower on Dursey Island well open of Cod's Head. This passes to the northwest of Stickeen Rock. It also clears the 18.9 meters deep Rocky Patch a mile west of Kilcatherine Point that breaks in gales. In bad weather keep the whole of Dursey Island open.
The Inishfarnard shore is clear of danger beyond 100 metres, but the south shore of Coulagh Bay has many dangers. Carrigeel is a 2.4-metre high rock situated in the south part of the bay that may usually be distinguished by the breakers round it.
From Carrigeel to Eyeries Island, the coast is covered with dangerous outlying rocks, which are seldom free from breakers. Bulligmore, with 2.1 metres of cover, is one of the outermost of these, with a patch of 4.6 metres beyond it, stretching halfway across the bay towards Inishfarnard. These break in gales. The alignment 238°(T), astern, of The Bull and the northwest side of Cod's Head leads northeast clears all these dangers for those approaching Ballycrovane Harbour.
Set into a niche in the eastern bight of Coulagh Bay, Ballycrovane Harbour , about 200 metres wide and 300 metres long, has room for several vessels to moor in depths of 10 to 15 metres in sand. Ballycrovane is the only sheltered anchorage which this dangerous bay affords as it is exposed to winds from the west, and both during and after bad weather a heavy sea runs in.
The south shore of Kenmare River to the east of Inishfarnard, is composed of low cliffs, lying at the base of wild mountain moorlands, which a short distance inland attain an elevation of 150 metres. The shore here is steep-to with no danger beyond 200 metres.
Three miles to the east of Inishfarnard is Cleanderry Harbour. This is a small inlet sheltered by low islands on the southeast shore. There are depths of up to 13.4 metres here but with very little room to swing.
To the east of this as far as Ardgroom the shore presents a rugged aspect, skirted by outlying dangers, and should not be approached nearer than 800 metres. About halfway up Kenmare River, there are three small harbours, Ardgroom and Kilmakilloge on the south shore, opposite Sneem in the north.
The land-locked harbour Ardgroom Harbour on the south shore, offers protection from all conditions in a capacious land-locked area, with 2 to 6 metres of water. However, Ardgroom has an intricate entrance, over a rocky 2.4-metre bar, that utilises grey transit beacons often obscured by trees and very hard to see. This makes it a testing exercise for the first visit with daylight and settled conditions a prerequisite.
Lying close to the east of Ardgroom, Kilmakilloge Harbour, provides perfect security for a small vessel against all winds. Its position is easily recognised from its proximity to Ardgroom, and by a grassy precipice, 29 metres high, on the east side of the entrance. Within a rocky cove on the east side of Kilmakilloge Harbour there is also Bunaw Harbour.
Lying on the north shore, opposite to Ardgroom and Kilmakilloge, Sneem Harbour is easily identified by a channel between Sherky Island, which stands out nearly to the middle of the river, and Rossdohan Island. The inner capacious harbour, in the western arm of Sneem Harbour, affords complete protection to a vessel in a range of anchoring locations plus visitor boat moorings.
The shore between Sneem Harbour and Coongar Bay, three miles to the east, is indented and fringed with outlying rocks. Vessels working up or down should be careful to give it a good berth, by not standing into a depth of less than 20 metres. Coongar Harbour provides no secure anchorage but may be used as a stopping place in settled conditions. A vessel can anchor near the middle of the bay in 16 metres, and find partial shelter from the prevailing westerly swell.
The opposite southern shore of Kenmare River is generally foul. ½ a mile to the east of Kilmakilloge a rocky prong, dry at low water, called Carrignawohil, extends 400 metres from the shore. 1½ miles further east the now scarcely conspicuous ruin of Ardea Castle, pronounced Ardee, may be seen perched on the brow of a grassy precipice of 35 metres high and collapsing down. At the foot of this is a stony beach, thrown up by the action of the western swell, that forms a barrier across the mouth of the little River Cloone.
Outstanding to the north of Ardea Castle is Leaghillaun Point, a low and dark looking point that forming an island at high water. Between it and Rossmore Island, on the north shore, Kenmare River contracted to about a mile in width and is obstructed by dangerous rocks, lying in the fairway called Maiden Rock.
Lying nearly in the fairway, at the distance of 850 metres from Rossmore Island, and with Ardea Castle to the south Maiden Rock is nearly awash at very low tides, but at ordinary spring ebbs, it has about 0.6 metres of water on it.
The highest part of the rock is about 25 metres in diameter, but only a small pinnacle has the aforementioned 0.6 metres of cover. When any considerable swell rolls up the river it breaks violently towards low water. The general depth between the Maiden Rock and Rossmore Island is around 25 metres, but nearly midway there is a very small rock with 9.8 metres, on which the sea occasionally breaks during heavy westerly gales. To the north of this, there is a starboard marker indicating a safe passage between it and Rossmore Island.
Off the southern shore, a dangerous tract of rocky ground extends towards the Maiden Rock, called Church Rocks. These have two distinct heads of 2.1 and 2.4 metres of water at its extremity, lying a little more than ½ a mile west from Leaghillaun Point.
The passage between these rocks and the Maiden, is almost ½ a mile wide, with 20 metres of water, and is considered the fairway. Unfortunately, there is no good leading mark for it that a stranger could pick up so it is perhaps best to pass on the north side, between the marker and Rossmore Island.
The south shore, from Leaghillaun point to Ormond Island, 1½ miles to the east, is fringed with outlying rocks; with an obstruction with 1.4 metres of water over it, lying 400 metres off, and must be carefully avoided by vessels working up or down the estuary.
Ormond Island forms a low 30-metre high projection from the south shore with a clay cliff at its west end. Sunken rocks extend 300 metres from this in a westerly direction. Ormond Harbour, sheltered by Ormond Island on the north and Hog Island with its adjacent rocks on the west, is a little rocky inlet. Although forbidding in appearance, from the number of rocks around it, it provides a useful berth with sufficient shelter from the western swell, in 5 metres at low water with a muddy bottom.
On the north shore, about two miles above Rossmore Island, a deep glen that forms the channel of this picturesque little Blackwater River with a pier at its mouth.
With from 2.4 to 2.7 metres of water over them, the well-covered Lackeen Rocks are the shallowest portion of an extensive tract of foul ground lying near the middle of Kenmare River. One mile long and nearly 600 metres wide it commences to the south of the Blackwater River mouth. On each side of it, there is a channel with from 13 to 20 metres of water. The channel between it and the south shore is further obstructed by well covered Halissey Rock, with 3.4 metres of water. To the east of this, both shores are foul to a considerable distance.
The channel to the upper part of Kenmare River is narrowed 1½ miles before the Dunkerron, by Brennel Island on the south shore and Carrignaronebeg Rock midchannel. Both are made known by lateral marks.
Brennel Island, on the outer edge of a series of rocks that extend a mile to the west of Cappanacush Island and cover the north shore to near the middle of Kenmare River. Some of these rocks are always above water. The 3-metre high Brennel Island is the highest part of a reef that extends a ⅓ of a mile from the south shore. Its outer eastern rock, Bat Rock with 0.8 metres of water over it uncovering at half-tide, is situated 230 metres to the north of the island and is marked by a buoy to the north.
Carrignaronebeg rock lies in the middle of the Kenmare River opposite. It dry to 2.6 metres but covers at high water and is marked by Carrignaronebeg buoy.
The pass between Bat Rock and the Carrignaronebeg Rock is 500 metres wide and has 11 to 17 metres of water.
A small detached pinnacle called Bowlings Rock has 0.8 metres of water and lays ¾ of a mile to the east of Carrignaronebeg. From this towards the head of Kenmare River, the water becomes gradually shallower, with not more than from 0.6 to 0.8 metres over a large area above the Dunkerron Islands.
Between Dunkerron and Cappanacush Islands, Dunkerron Harbour is well sheltered, with depths 3 metres plus.
The colloquially known Hog Islands, lying to the west of Lamb’s Head, are bold and conspicuous. Likewise, the 162 metres Hog Head to the north of them, stands out conspicuously from the south side of Ballinskelligs Bay.
The outer of a group of islands is Scariff Island, otherwise known as Great Hog Island, resides 4.5 miles west from Lamb’s Head. The 252 metres high island is one mile long, ¾ of a mile wide, and surrounded by steep precipices.
The 141 metres high Deenish, or Little Hog island, resides 300 metres to the east of Scariff, is about ¾ of a mile long and a ⅓ of a mile wide. Rocky prongs extend for 400 metres from the west side of Scariff and the north end of Deenish, but they are clear of hidden dangers and steep-to.
The 21 metres high Moylaun Island, 1½ east from Deenish, is a ¼ of a mile long. The two-headed Island, ½ a mile to the south-east of Moylaun, and about 200 metres from the islet under Lamb Head is 40 metres high. The passages between these islands are clear of hidden danger with about 40 metres of water and may be safely navigated in fine weather.
The flood tide sets to the north through them, and the ebb to the south, at the rate of 1.5 knots per hour.
Between the islands and Hog Head there are some rocky patches on which the sea breaks heavily in bad weather. The most eastern and shallowest of these is called Bullignalorbau that has 7.9 metres of water over it, plus Bullignamylaun, east of Moylaun Island, has 18 metres of water over it. Both of these break in gales.
To the north of Lamb Head, the coast is fronted by the outlying Hog Islands, and then trends in a northwest direction for four miles to Hog Head, the southern point of Ballinskelligs Bay. Between them lies the little bight of Darrynane Harbour . The small harbour has a narrow entrance between rocks that leads into an excellent anchorage with secure moorings providing complete protection. However, it is inaccessible except in the finest weather. The outlying rocks, as well as the foul ground between Darrynane and Hog Islands, break furiously in unsettled weather.
The entrance to Ballinskelligs Bay located between Hog Head, and it's off-lying Pig's Rocks with a drying reef close seaward of them, and Horse Island and is nearly two miles wide with deep water all the way. Inside the bays expands to four miles in width and three in depth, with moderate depths, but quite open to the southwest, and exposed to a very heavy sea with the wind from that quarter.
The northern boundary of this deep bight is Bolus Head. The extremity of a bold 407 metres high mountainous promontory, that drops down here to terminate in the 183-metre high precipice. ½ a mile to the northeast of the head, at an elevation of 283 metres, a tower will be seen. The 407 metre high Bolus Mountain will be seen standing about a mile and a ½ to the northeast of the head.
A mile to the north of Bolus Head is Ducalla Head, foul out to 200 metres. It forms the southern limit of Saint Finan’s Bay, an open bay lying between Ducalla Head and Puffin Island to the north, with bold rocky shores and deep water.
About three miles northwest of Bolus Head is the 166 metre high Puffin Island. The island lies close to the shore at the northwest point of St. Finan’s Bay. The sound between it and the shore is obstructed by rocks, having a narrow passage 45 metres wide, with 9 metres of water, through which the tide runs with rapidly.
Both the island and the mainland point, Ballaghnanea (Ballagh Point) close northeast, can be distinguished by steep cliffs. Inland, about 3.2 miles northeast of Puffin Island, a conspicuous television mast stands at an elevation of 368 metres. Puffin Sound is a rock-encumbered sound between Puffin Island and Ballaghnanea Point. It has a narrow 45-metre wide passage with a depth of 5.5 metres, through which tidal currents run very strongly.
Offshore, between 6½ and 7½ miles to the west of Bolus Head, and about 14 miles northwest of The Bull, reside the Skellig Islands. These islands consist of two conspicuous pinnacle rocky islets, Great Skellig, also known as Skellig Michael, is the outer islet, and Little Skellig the inner.
The uninhabited Great Skellig , also known as Skellig Michael, majestically rises out of the sea to a height of 214 metres.
A Gaelic Christian monastery was founded on the island at some point between the 6th and 8th centuries and it remained continuously occupied until it was abandoned in the late 12th century. The remains of the series of early Christian beehive buildings and walled enclosures, of dry masonry construction, remain today on its eastern heights, solid and unbroken for 14 centuries. The remains of the monastery and most of the island became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Its breathtaking appearance has lead to it being a filming location for the Star Wars movies 'The Force Awakens' and 'The Last Jedi'.
A light is shown from a 12-metre high white tower, standing on the islands southwest extremity, plus the remains of a disused lighthouse can be seen 200 metres to the northwest of the new light. The light is sectored to cover Little Skellig and Lemon Rock W Vis 262°-115° (213°).
The dangerous Washerwoman Rock, drying to 1.8 metres high, resides a ⅓ of a mile to the southwest of Great Skellig. There are two further dangerous sunken rocks that reside 90 metres off the islands north end.
Situated about 1.3 miles east-northeast of Great Skellig, Little Skellig is 130 metres high. It hosts sizable gannets and kittiwakes bird colonies. A rock lies less than 90m from its S side.
The 21 metre high Lemon Rock resides about 2.2 miles northeast of Little Skellig.
Between Puffin island and Port Magee, the western entrance of Valentia Harbour, the coast is of the same bold precipitous character, fringed with rocky prongs and detached masses of rock. The coast declines in height to the north, where it terminates in a series of low black islands at the south side of the entrance channel to Portmagee.
Residing 2.7 miles north of Puffin Island and on the south side of the entrance to Dingle Bay, Valentia Island is a large and significant island. Six miles long the island has highlands at each end, the 238 metres hill at its west end and a 267-metre hill at its northeast corner; the latter made conspicuous 30-metre high radio mast standing on the summit. The seaward northwest side is shrouded by remarkable slate cliffs where the disused workings of a quarry will be seen.
Bray Head, the southwest extremity of the island, is bold and precipitous. The north side of the island between Fort Point and Beginish Island, at the northeast extremity, forms the south side of Valentia Harbour. The southeast side of the island forms the northwest side of Portmagee Channel. These are separated by a swing bridge that spans the channel and is located 90 metres east of Port Magee Pier. Although the bridge offers a 10.7-metre wide opening it has become inoperable and so forms an airdraft restriction.
Clear of danger with plenty of depth Portmagee , opening immediately to the south of Bray Head, at the western end of the strait that separates Valentia Island from the mainland, affords secure anchorage at the west end of the channel, to the southeast side of the island.
Although providing a safe anchorage it is a dangerous place for sailing vessels to run for in bad weather. A very heavy sea runs into the entrance, and with the wind coming off either shore it is subject to unpredictable and heavy gusts from the high land that surrounds it.
Situated at the east end of the island, Knightstown or Valentia Harbour, entered between Valentia Island between and Beginish Island, affords perfect shelter against all winds and sea, and is easy of access.
For sailing vessels a leading wind is necessary, as the entrance is very narrow, and exposed to a heavy sea, which in northwest gales sometimes breaks right across it.
Cromwell Point, forming the west point of entrance, is composed of a ledge of rocks that extend 150 metres beyond the lighthouse and are steep-to. It is distinguished by a lighthouse with a sectored light R304°-351° (47°), W104°-304° (200°).
The northeast, or Beginish Island, side of the entrance will be identifiable by a former pilot lookout tower standing on the summit of the island at an elevation of 63 metres.
The channel is reduced to 160 metres in width by the Cloghavalig Rocks, these extend 180 metres from the west point of Beginis Island, and have less than 0.5 metres of water over them.
The channel between the northeast extremity of Valentia Island and Reenadroulaun Point on the mainland, to the east, is narrowed to a width of about 100 metres by shoals which extend from each shore. The drying spit on the west side of the channel is known as The Foot.
North of Valentia Island the mainland recommences with the 104 meters high Doulus Head. The headland is conspicuous from seaward and is backed by 276m high Killelan Mountain about ¾ of a mile to the northeast.
Doulus Head resides on the south side of the entrance to Dingle Bay. Dingle Bay is entered between Valentia Island and The Blaskets, between Dunmore Head, the Dingle Peninsula western extremity, and Doulus Point its south-westernmost point. The bay is about 11 miles wide at its entrance and extends east-northeast for 20 miles. It is deep and clear in the entrance and shoals gradually toward its head. The land on both sides of Dingle Bay is high and bold, particularly the Dingle Peninsula, where the Brandon Mountains rises up to a height of 949 metres. This high land terminates to seaward in precipitous cliffs in the outer part of the bay.
Castlemaine Harbour is at the head and Ventry and Dingle Harbours residing in bights out of its northwest shoreline. The rest of the bay offers no shelter as it is exposed to the full force of the Atlantic Ocean and westerly swell.
At the head of Dingle Bay is Castlemaine Harbour, formed by the estuary of the rivers Laune and Maine. The harbour is strictly a prolongation of Dingle Bay, and' penetrates the land for a distance of about 6½ miles with an average width of upwards of two miles. The greater portion of this uncovers at low water. It is sheltered by the low sandy peninsulas of Inch and Rossbehy plus the extensive sandbanks projecting from the north and south shorelines for nearly two miles to the west into Dingle Bay.
It affords a safe and well-sheltered anchorage for leisure craft, in from 3 to 7 metres of water. However, its entrance is rendered difficult by a 3-metre bar, two miles seaward of the entrance, and by some shallower shoals lying around the bar.
Castlemaine Harbour intensively farmed for shellfish.
Situated on the north side of Dingle Bay, Ventry Harbour is located four miles east of Slea Head. The bay’s opening is a mile wide and it is entered between Parkmore Point and the 30 meters high Paddock Point on the eastern side. Paddock Point is easily recognised upon approach as it lies 1½ miles to the west of the conspicuous Eask Tower situated upon a 195-metre high summit. The large bay provides easy access and an anchorage with good holding ground.
About three miles to the east of Ventry is Dingle Harbour . At high water, it presents a magnificent basin, completely landlocked, and surrounded by lofty hills, but with the falling tide a large portion of it uncovers, and what remains is very shallow except for a narrow channel to the harbour, with a marina, situated on the north shore.
It is essential to keep at least a mile from the north shore of Dingle Bay between Ventry Bay and the entrance to Dingle Bay. Foul ground extends ¾ of a mile southwest from Reenbeg Point 600 metres offshore.
Crow Rock, that is covered on high water springs and dries to 3.7 metres, lies on the outer part of the foul ground Colleen-oge Rock, with 1.8 metres of water over it, resides about half way between it and the shore to the northeast. There is also a detached head, with 2.4 metres of water over it, that lies about a 100 metres west-southwest of Crow Rock. The line of bearing 024° of the light tower, on the northeast side of the harbour entrance, open southeast of Reenbeg Point, as best seen on Admiralty 2790, provides a clearing line for these dangers.
Upon the north side of the entrance to Dingle Bay, immediately west of the extremity of Dingle peninsula, are the Blasket Islands. These are a cluster of precipitous rocky islets surrounded by deep water. However, the bottom in their vicinity is uneven, with sudden transitions from deep water to comparatively shallow. When this combines with strong tides and thick weather it causes a heavy breaking and dangerous seas. In heavy westerly gales, the appearance of the sea among the islands is so utterly deadly that no one would dare venture into it. However, in fine weather, they offer a very interesting and enchanting cruising area. The key Blasket Islands and islets that will be encountered are described here from south to north.
A local magnetic anomaly is reported to exist in the vicinity of the Blasket Islands.
The southwestern most islet of the group is Great Foze Rock. It lies about three miles south-southwest of Tearaght Island and the rugged little islet is about 120 metres wide and 27 metres high. It is steep-to with about 40 metres of depth within 200 metres all around, except for a 16.2-meter patch about 200 metres northwest of it.
The smaller 7 metres high Little Foze Rock lies just under a mile north-northeast of Great Foze Rock. It is 7.9 metres high, steep-to and clear of danger all round. Depths in excess of 50 metres of water will be found in the channel between them.
Residing north and south of each other Inishnabro and Inishvickillane Islands together occupy a space of about 1.5 miles. The islands western ends incline towards each other and reach heights of 174 and 134 metres respectively. Their surrounding shores are broken and rocky, with outlying dangers to the south and west. They are generally inaccessible except for Inishvickillane. On its northeast side, there is a little bay in front of which a vessel may anchor with settled weather or with moderate westerly winds. A landing is also possible here in fine weather.
The north end of Inishnabro lies just over a mile to the southwest from Canduff, the south-western end extremity of Great Blasket Island, with a clear channel between them that carries 50 metres of water. However, 400 metres from the northeast end of Inishnabro is the dangerous off-lying Sound Rock that dries at last quarter ebb to 0.9 meters.
To the south of Inishvickillane are several detached rocks, some always above water, and others only appearing at low water. There is also a shoal that causes breakers, with the least depth of 11 metres, stretching for almost a mile to the east of the eastern extremity of Inishvickillane.
The 32 metre high Thunder Rock lies about 200 metres south-southwest of the southern extremity of Inishvickillane, and is nearly connected to it by a sunken ridge.
Off the northwest point of the island is the above water Stack Rock 0.8 mile northwest of Thunder Rock. About 400 metres southwest of Stack Rock is a rock that dries to 0.3 metres.
To the south of Inishvickillane are the Fohish Rocks that cover on last quarter flood and dry to 2.7 metres. They lie nearly ½ a mile southeast of the southern extremity of Inishvickillane, with 40 metres of water, 200 metres outside them. Two above water rocks Milkaunmore and Milkaunbeg reside between Fohish Rocks and the southeast end of the island. The alignment of the southeast extremity of Inishtooskert in range with, the southwest extremity of Great Blasket Island, on a bearing about 006°(T), leads west of the Fohish Rocks as best seen on an Admiralty chart.
About 2½ miles to the southeast of Inishvickillane there is the well-covered Barrack Rock. It has 8.2 metres of water over it and it is steep-to, but breaks during gales.
Likewise, the nearby Wild Bank should be noted. It lies about 4 miles to the northwest of Barrack Rock and 2½ miles south-southwest of Slea Head. It has general depths of 11 to 18.3 metres but a least depth of 5.5 metres over a pinnacle rising from a rocky bank and likewise causes breakers.
The small precipitous 179 metres high Inishtearaght Island resides almost three miles west of the southwest end of Great Blasket Island and it is the most westerly and remote of all the Blasket Islands. The island is perforated by an archway that will be seen as open to a northeast by east or southwest by south bearing. It is steep-to all round, except to the west, where some high, detached rocks and islets lie about 400 metres west of the western extremity of the island. 400 metres south of these there are two reefs that uncover, between half and last quarter ebb to 2 metres and 0.8 metres.
The western side of Inishtearaght has a prominent lighthouse. Inishtearaght Light is a white 17 metres high white tower standing at an elevation of 84 metres.
¾ of a mile to the west of Inishtearaght are Tearaght Rocks with deep water close home to them. One rock attains a height of 13 metres. The channel between it and the outlying islets and rocks, to the west of Inishtearaght, is quite clear of danger, with depths varying from 60 to 25 metres in mid-channel.
Three miles long, in a southwest-northeast direction, and less than ½ a mile wide; Great Blasket Island is the largest of the group. It resides just ¾ of a mile to the west of Dunmore Head, the nearest point of the mainland. Rising from such a narrow base to the height of 289 metres at its highest point at Croagmore, about a mile northeast of Canduff Point its southern extremity, it is a very steep island and presents along its northwest side a wall of vertical cliffs.
Near its eastern end, a ruined tower stands on the summit of the ridge. Close northwest of Garraun Point, the eastern extremity of the island, upon the shore facing the mainland, there is a beach called An Tra Ban . In fine weather, a vessel may anchor here in 3 metres on a sandy bottom and land on the beach.
The northwest shore of the island is free from outlying danger, but from the north point, there is a dangerous cluster of rocks and islets extending a mile in a north-northeast direction. These include attached at high water 11 metres Illaunbaun, and the 10-metre high Illaunboy, and 11.9-metre high Carrigfadda islets that reside 270 metres northwest of the northern extremity of Great Blasket Island, with foul ground between. Several rocks, awash, lie within 400 metres west and northwest of the latter two islets, and a group of sunken rocks and islets extends for nearly a mile north of them. Near their north end of this cluster are the Edge Rocks standing 17.4 and 16.2 metres high, with out-lying rocks, that uncover at low water, 200 metres farther north, and Connor Rocks, also awash, 400 metres farther northeast. The bank on which this scattered group reside extends ½ a mile further to the north carrying depths of 9.1 to 18.3 metres of water and it breaks heavily in bad weather.
The rocky islet, Beginish, with Youngs Island, close north, lies within 0.8 mile northeast of the northern extremity of Great Blasket Island. These islets form the eastern boundary of this group and the western side of Blasket Sound.
Youngs Island has an outlying rock situated 400 metres east from the islets northern extremity, that dries at low water springs and breaks at other times. There is a depth of 4.6 metres over a group of pinnacles about 90 metres south of the rock.
East of Beginish, the Theogh Rocks extend 200 metres in a southerly direction. Likewise, some rocks extend for 200 metres off the northeast corner of Beginish. All of these western dangers must be avoided by vessels working through Blasket Sound.
In moderate weather, the relatively easy to navigate Blasket Sound is a very attractive option for leisure craft. It offers considerable distance savings for vessels rounding the Dingle Peninsula as it cuts at least twenty miles off passages between Valentia and the River Shannon, or destinations further north. Blasket Sound’s narrowest part resides between the mainland’s Dunmore Head and Garraun Point (the east point of Great Blasket Island) is reduced to ¾ of a mile in width by a remarkable narrow 44 metres high strip of rock called the Lure.
The Lure extends into the channel from Dunmore Point and from a short distance, this strip of rock appears as an island. Scollage Rock, that is covered at high water, resides 150 metres out from its extremity. Beyond these again, and lying nearly in a direct line between the Scollage Rock and Garraun Point, one-third of the distance across from the former, is a sunken rock called the Stromboli Rocks.
Consisting of several small sunken pinnacles Stromboli Rock has a least depth of 1.8 metres of water over it. The pinnacles lie 500 metres west by north from the Scollage Rock, and in stormy weather is surrounded by heavy breakers.
Between Stromboli Rock and Garraun Point, there is a clear ½ mile wide passage with 25 metres of water. A useful shared set of waypoints and tidal timings can be found in the Route navigating Blasket Sound .
The passages between the islands or through the Blasket sound may be freely used in moderate weather, taking care to avoid the above-described dangers plus eddies near the islands. In unsettled weather or at night, it is best to pass to the west of the larger islands. Be prepared for sudden and violent gusts of the wind, that come off the mountains and high islands in this area.
The northernmost of the Blasket group is Inishtooskert Island. It resides 2.25 miles north-northwest from the northernmost point of Great Blasket Island and about 3.5 miles northeast of Tearaght Island. The small island is about 1 mile in length and ½ a mile wide. In Gaelic, the name means island of the tusks and is so called as a result of its pinnacle rocks having that appearance. The islands northern face is composed of nearly vertical 171 metres high cliffs that slope down to the southeast. The island is quite free from outlying danger, except off its southwest end. Here there is a detached rock that is awash at low water and situated about 600 metres southwest of the southwest extremity of the island. It usually makes itself known by the seas breaking over it. Between it and the island are the always exposed Carrigduff and another high rock.
The channel between Inishtooskert and the rocks north of Great Blasket is 1.5 miles wide, with irregular soundings, varying from 60 and 18 to 35 metres. In fine weather, the elevations of the bottom are marked by tide ripples but in westerly gales, there are heavy breakers in this area. The most severe are about a mile directly south of Inishtooskert over an 18.3-metre section of the bank.
The eastern mainland shore of Blasket Sound lays at the base of the high mountains that terminate the Brandon range. It is rugged and broken but, with the exception of Stromboli Rock, is free from hidden danger beyond what a sensible boatman would comfortably venture into.
Lying between Slea Head and Dunmore Head is Coumenoole Bay at the south end of the sound. It is clear of danger and shoals gradually to the shore with a depth of 5 metres at 50 metres out. It provides an anchorage in offshore wind for vessels waiting for a fair tide to pass through the sound.
From Dunmore Head, the coast trends in a north-northeast direction for 2.5 miles to Clogher Head, and is fringed by rocky prongs. Abreast of the village of Dunquin these extend nearly 400 metres out to terminate in detached rock Carrigduff. Within the sheltered are of outlying rocks is a fine weather landing place here.
The rugged 113 metres high Clogher Head has a prominent sharply pointed above-water Clogher Rock close off the head.
Terminating in a bold precipice that rises to a height of 206 metres, Sybil Point resides 1.7 miles north of Clogher Head, and nearly in the same line of direction from Dunmore Head. The point has the ruins of a telegraph tower on its summit, at an elevation 126 metres. Although the tower is now difficult to discern the summit on which it stands provides a useful leading mark when traversing Blasket Sound. The alignment of the sharp pointed Clogher Rock, in range 015° with the ruins of the tower, or the summit on which it stands leads clear of the dangers in the sound.
A 47-metre high rock lies close southwest of Sybil Point. Drying rocks and shoals extend about ½ a mile from the point with a rock awash at low water about 200 metres to the south of the always visible Maher-aneig rock. At the head of the bight between Clogher Head and Sybil point is Ferriter’s Cove, where a landing is possible on a sandy beach in fine weather.
From Sybil Point, almost a barb of rock topped by a tower, the coast turns suddenly to the east for a distance of 13 miles to Brandon Point, at the west side of Brandon Bay. Backed by ranges of high mountains that terminate near Brandon Head the area is shrouded with breath-taking cliffs. Brandon Mountain rises sheer from the sea and it presents a strikingly bold and magnificent feature, easily recognised from a great distance. The shoreline here is generally steep-to and clear of hidden danger with 50 metres water within ½ a mile of the rocks. The Brandon headland, surmounted by the 949 metres high mountain of the same name, forms the most remarkable feature of this coast when approaching Tralee Bay from the west.
The open bay of Smerwick Harbour lies three miles to the east of Sybil Point. The precipitous coast between them presents the remarkable elevations of the Three Sisters, West, Middle, and East over a distance of ½ a mile, with the latter attaining an elevation of 150 metres. There are off-lying rocks in beneath the three sisters and vessels should keep ½ a mile off this coastline.
These form the east point of the entrance to Smerwick Harbour, with the 29 metres high Dunacapple Island, a mile to the east, forming the west point of entrance. Between Dunacapple Island and the shore on the east side of the entrance, there are sunken rocks called Black Rocks that partially protect the harbour from northeast winds.
Just under a mile northeast of Dunacapple Islet is Ballydavid Head. This is made known by a prominent 251 metres high conical hill upon which stands a signal tower, close east by northeast of the head, of which only two vertical walls remain. Within the harbour, a prominent 126-metre high radio mast will be seen standing on the eastern shore.
Thirteen miles to the northeast of Sybil Point is the precipitous Brandon Point. The coastline between Ballydavid Head and Brandon Point is backed by high mountain ranges that terminate in distinctive cliffs about 3.2 miles southwest of Brandon Point near Brandon Head. The head, together with several peaks in the vicinity including the 760 meters high Masatiompan Hill, close within, and the 949 meters high Brandon Mountain, located about two miles to the south of Brandon Head, make for an awe-inspiring coastline. The wild and rock bound bight of Sauce Creek is 1½ miles to the northeast of the summit of Masatiompan and about midway between it and Brandon Point. Deelick Point has an old coastguard look-out.
Keep an eye out for pot buoys commence in the area just before Deelick Point. A rocky bank with a least depth of 12.8 metres resides 2.5 miles north of Brandon Point. In heavy weather the sea breaks over it and the area should be avoided.
Four miles wide and three deep Brandon Bay is entered between Brandon Point and the northwest extremity of a sandy peninsula, about four miles east-northeast that separates it from Tralee Bay. Brandon Bay is open to the north with moderate depths of water, and clear of danger, except for two shoal patches lying near its southern shore.
To the west of Brandon Bay, the depths vary from 25 metres to 50 metres and the bottom is pretty level. To the east, generally between the Magharee Islands and Kerry Head, it becomes shallower irregular soundings that include rocky patches of 16 to 22 metres of water.
The sea breaks here in bad weather and it should be avoided at such times.
Due east of Brandon Point, at the distance of four miles, are the Magharee Islands, or Seven Hogs. The group of islands lie north of the northern end, Rough Point, of a sandy peninsula that separates Brandon Bay from Tralee Bay. The Magharee Islands lie to the north of the sandy peninsula that separates Bandon and Tralee bays. Gurrig Island, the westernmost and highest of the group, is 19 metres high. Along with the adjacent islands of Inishtooskert, 14 metres high, and Illaunimmil, 20 metres high, is clear of hidden danger with deep water all round.
The largest of the eastern islands is the 7 metres high Illauntannig with a dwelling house and anchorage. Illauntannig is clear to the south and west but connected with the islets on its eastern side by a bank of foul ground. Mucklaghbeg, the easternmost rock, is foul all round. Patches of 2 to 3.6 metres of water extend nearly a mile to the north by northeast of it and the sea breaks heavily upon this. From 2.2 to 7.2 metres of water will be found to the south of Mucklaghbeg leaving a narrow channel, called Magharee Sound.
On the south side of the island group is the aptly named Rough Point that is the northern projection of the mainland sandy peninsula separating Brandon Bay from Tralee Bay. Rough Point may be also distinguished by an old telegraph tower standing on the point.
To the east of this tower, and directly south of Illauntannig, is Scraggane Bay located within a bight at the head of the peninsula. This provides an anchorage amongst fishing boats plus a pier. The small village of Fahamore, on the Brandon Bay side of the peninsula, is accessible via a short walk from Scraggane Bay pier.
Narrow and intricate Magharee Sound passes between the islets and the foul ground off Rough Point. It has a least depth of 4.5 metres and a ⅓ of a mile wide. In moderate or clear weather with a favourable tide, there is no great difficulty in running through this cut that saves at least an hour from the passage whilst adding interesting sailing.
Two transits mark the Magharee Sound’s best water. Admiralty Chart 2739 presents a leading mark shown of 106°(T) of the rock islet The Rose with Fenit Castle, a ruined square tower, in line with the highest part of Church Hill, upon which stands two prominent churches. This will lead out through the eastern side of the sound. However, this transit may not always be easily picked out by an unacquainted visitor.
Another possibly more easily identified lead through the sound is to give Illauntannig a reasonable berth and then keep Gurrig Island, a flat island that looks like a pan lid almost replete with knob, about its own breadth open to the south of the south point of Illauntannig, providing a line of bearing of 282°(T) astern.
Two charted obstructions that have no depth details reside on the track from the Sound to Fenit harbour.
But Magharee Sound requires good conditions. During west gales, a heavy breaking sea breaks right across the sound where it meets an opposing current and it should be absolutely avoided. In these times it is best to pass two miles north of the Magharees to avoid possible breakers over two shoals located to the north of the group. It should also be noted that tides run up to 3 knots in Magharee Sound.
Opening to the northwest, Tralee Bay is entered between Rough Point, the northeast extremity of the sandy peninsula, and the bold bluff headland of Kerry Head, about six miles to the northeast. In the outer part of the bay the depths are moderate, but to the south of the Magharee Islands it becomes shallow, and the shores run off flat to a long distance. The bay is open to the Atlantic’s prevailing wind and swell offers poor shelter, except in Fenit Harbour. Tralee, the chief town of County Kerry, stands near the head of the bay, where the great part of which dries at low water. In the past, a ship canal 1.75 miles in length carried vessels to the town.
The primary light of Tralee Bay stands upon Little Samphire Island. It resides on the outer edge of the foul ground on the north side of the approach to Fenit Harbour and about a mile south of Fenit Island. The island is entirely occupied by the 17 meters high stone tower lighthouse, the attached buildings and their surrounding stone wall. The lighthouse provides a sectored light to assist vessels past the dangers in the bay: 262°-Red-275°, 280-Red-090°-Green-140°-White-152°-Red-172°.
⅔ of a mile southeast by east from Little Samphire is Great Samphire Island and Fenit Harbour . Originally this was a small 10-metre high rock, it has been extensively developed and joined to the mainland by an 800-metre bridge. A 250 metres long breakwater extends east by northeast from the island enclosing a quay where a little fishing village of Fenit resides with a marina. A modern working fishing and manufacturing facility along with fuel tanks will be clearly visible on the island. There is also an RNLI station that launches from the marina, sailing and fishing clubs. The island exhibits a light visible 242°-097°.
To the west of Great Samphire and 600 metres off from the nearest shore is The Wheel Rock that is covered on last quarter flood but dries to 3.5 metres. It lies 200 metres to the west of the bridge and between Wheel Rock and the shore, there is about 1.7 metres of water.
The deep water channel, about 200 metres wide, runs close to the south of Great Samphire Island and is bounded to the south by the great banks that cover the southern shore of Tralee Bay. To the east of this, the flats entirely fill the inner portion of the bay. This section completely uncovers to the mouth of the River Lea where the little drying harbour of Blennerville resides.
It is possible to anchor near Castlegregory off the sandy peninsula separating Brandon Bay from Tralee Bay. This area, located to the south of fish farms, is often used as a wait point for commercial ships planning on berthing at Fenit. For leisure craft, it offers an anchorage off miles of attractive blue flag beaches backed by sand hills.
The River Shannon, the largest river in Ireland, is entered between Kerry Head and Loop Head to the north. It offers spacious and secure anchorage for all classes of vessels and may be easily accessed in all reasonable conditions. The River Shannon provides a set of waypoints for the estuary, the inner entrance, and river’s main features as far Limerick.
Loop Head, the north entrance point of the estuary, terminates west in a steep precipice, 55 metres in elevation with barely a mile of land saving it from island status. The sea breaks on two rocks, 59 metres high, that lay close north of the head. Loop Head is marked by a prominent white lighthouse, that stands 23 metres high about 400 metres inside the extremity of the cape.
Thanks for the very informative route. Just a small correction; in the photographs associated with the entry on Sybil Point, the captions should read "Sybil Point from the south" or "Sybil Point from Clogher Head" (not Clogher Head from the south, and Clogher Head). The photographs were taken from Clogher Head and show Sybil Point and the Three Sisters (peaks at the middle right hand side) and associated rocks on the LHS. It might be of interest that filming of part of a new Star Wars film took place on Sybil Point in May and June 2016, where a replica of the monastic settlement on the Skellig Rock (Sceilig Mhichíl) had been constructed for the filming and was subsequently dismantled.

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