CELEX: 51979PC0166
Language: en
Date: 1979-04-03
Title: PROPOSAL FOR A COUNCIL DECISION ADOPTING A SECOND MULTIAANUAL RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME FOR THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITY IN THE FIELD OF TEXTILE AND CLOTHING (Indirect action) (presented by the Commission to the Council)

ARCHIVES HISTORIQUES
DE LA COMMISSION
COLLECTION RELIEE DES
DOCUMENTS "COM"
COM (79) 166
Vol. 1979/0073
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 ---pagebreak---           COMMISSION OF THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES
                                        COM(79)166   final
                                                      Brussels , 3 April 1979
                                      S
                                /
                                 PROPOSAL FOR A COUNCIL DECISION
                         ADOPTING A SECOND MULTIAANUAL RESEARCH AND
                     DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME FOR THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITY
                             IN THE FIELD OF TEXTILE AND CLOTHING
                                        ( Indirect action )   v
                       ( presented by the Commission to the Council )
          h r:                ^
           \\              ' /' /
COM ( 79 ) 166 final
 ---pagebreak---                            CONTENTS
Summary
Presentation of programme
Content of programme
Budget                         '
Implementation and management of
programme    -
Dissemination of information
 ( Technical annex : the detailed description of the research topics
 making up the programme is at the disposal of whom it may concern )
 1 . Proposal for a Council decision on the adoption of a second
    multi annual Research and Development programme in the field of
    Textile and Clothing ^
 ---pagebreak--- Summary .
The present proposal covers five research and development
actions in the field of textile and clothing .
The research areas are the following :
1 ) Garment physiology and construction ,
2 ) Quality of knitted fabrics and knitwear articles ,
3 ) Application of new spinning technologies in the wool industry ,
h ) Upgrading of linen ,
5 ) Pollution treatment and water recycling in textile finishing
    enterprises .
A budget estimated at 4.2 . million European Units of account on
Community budget and 1+.05 million European units of account by the
textile industry , and a staff of two agents are necessary for the
implementation of this 3-year programme .
 ---pagebreak---                                        - 3 -
Présentation of EI22E2ÏÏÏ5                                                  "
Following a series of consultations with the various branches of the
textile and clothing industries , and following proposals made by
the industry , the Commission is submitting a second multiannual joint
research and development programme for a 3-year period , the
expenditure of which is estimated at 8 . 25 M. EUA (^. 2 . M. EUA to be
shouldered by the Comnunity ) for the whole period .
This activity is taking place in the context of - the general guidelines
for a textiles and clothing industry policy which the Conmission
approved on 19 July 1978 at its ^82nd meeting ( C0M(78 ) 362 final ).
The research' programme covers 5 actions dealing with several branches
of activity ( cf . tfechnical annex ).
It will be carried out in the form of a cost-sharing contact with
Comitextil with the participation of national research bodies and
of private industry .      -
The programme is justified in that :                   ■ •
- the sector of the textile and clothing industries is made up of a
   huge number of small and medium-size enterprises . Those enterprises
   encounter difficulties when it comes to deciding on the choice of
   investments , production levels and export opportunities , but
   they are not in a position to launch by themselves a wide-ranging
   technological research programme , the findings of which , when put "•
   into application ■, would mainly lead to- new technologies , new products
   and new services for the benefit of the whole textile and clothing
   sector ;              ,
- the textile and clothing industries occupy an important position
   in the Community economy ; they provide approximately 10% of wage-
   earning industrial jobs and it is estimated that , in terms of added
   value , they account for some 8% of the Community 's industrial
   activity ;
- their main deatures are : numerous processing stages and a very
   large number of undertakings ; a preponderance of small and medium-
   sized undertakings in some subsectors , particularly in the clothing
   industry ; a range of production thai is highly diversified as to
   products and outlets , very marked fluctuations in demand ; a very
   high proportion of women in the labour force , heavy concentration
   in certain regions , where they represent a large proportion of
   economic activity ; .
                                                                        i
- the European textile industry cannot rest on the laurels of its
   present technoligy and markets awareness . It will inevitably be
 - caught up and permanently overtaken by rising costs . - It must therefore
 ---pagebreak---                                 - u -
make unflagging efforts to improve and renew its techniques and
technology , of which joint research and development are the prime
movers .
On the other hand , as this second programme is the continuation
of the initial programme about to be completed , the national
industries have now acquired the habit of working together
in the research field at a time when research has become more
indispensable than ever .
For it is now admits the economic difficulties caused by the oil and
raw materials crisis and the difficulties arising in international
trade , more particularly with developing countries and State-
trading countries selling their products at abnormally low prices ,
- that the European industry must step up its efforts to improve its
competitive position ,both at home and in the world .
The European textile and clothing industries offer quality , imagina­
tion and taste j their survival will depend on their ability to adapt
quickly to markets and especially to the changing market of
fashion . They will succeed only by mobilizing all their resources ;
in such an effort research plays a crucial and essential part .
 ---pagebreak---                                     - 5 -
Content of the programme :
The topics or projects making up the programme were selected after
lenghty debates and then finalized by the national and European
professional bodies , with the cooperation of the joing research
organizations . The financial commitment of the textile organizations
in the participating countries ( half the total budget of the new
programme ) bears witness to their conviction as to the usefulness of the
programme .                                                                        ,
This file is thus the results of many months of intensive preparatory
work by representatives of the textile industries and laboratory experts .
After tjhe topics had been decided upon , Technical and Scientific Commit­
tees were ^appointed for each topic , with the following tasks :
.   to  describe the successive phases of each project ;
•   to  make a time-table of the phases extending over three full years ;
.   to  share out the work between laboratories , phase by phase ,
.   to  set up liaison procedures for inter-laboratory work .
The projects had to comply with the following criteria , to differing
extents , but always so as to obtain the best possible classification
score :                                                                     .
 1 . improve the competitiveness of the European textile industry in the
     world ,
2.    nfeet the requirement and expectations of consumers ,            ■
3.   improve working conditions or production conditions ,
U.   introduce new methods , machines or products ,.
5 .. economize on energy , materials and working time ,
6.   protect the environment ,
7.   contribute towards the maintenance and improvement of the general
     economy of the E.E.C.
None of the subjects was selected without previous examination of the
technical literature ( journals , patents . ..), to obviate the risk of
duplication and take, advantage of all existing scientific and technical
knowledge right from" the start . In any case , the high competence of the
laboratories in, their respective fields reduced the risk of duplication
to an unlikely coincidence .
The laboratories were selected on the basis of their internationally
recognized competence in the textile and clothing sectors . Some countries
have institutes dealing with several technologies ; they are therefore
participating in several projects ( two subjects in five cases ( WIRA , SHIRLEY ,
LIRA , TNO , DWFI , Stazione Sp . Cellulosa), sometimes V ( Centexbel , and ITF ) , s
but more usually one subject only , as in the case of the eleven specialist
institutes ( BEITEM , LBD , CETIH , ITL , Tecnotessile , 0 . Rivetti , BPI ,
Tech ., Forsch , Texfo and LIRA)). Nothing is therefore overdone , but
projects are apportioned in accordance with qualifications .                         -
 ---pagebreak---                                        - 6 -
 Research topi cs fo rming the pro gramme .
 The detailed programme per project is listed in the technical annex .
 Project Nr 5 - Garment physi ology and construction .
                   This project undoubtedly belongs to the textile sector
                   since garments , which account for more than half the
                   output of the textile industry , are basically the sum
                   of their components parts , i.e. there is close interdepen­
                   dence in the design of an article between the type
                   of fibre , the method of spinning and weaving , and even
                   the making-up stage .
                    In seeking technical possibilities , this project aims
                    at progressing towards a harmonization of the systems of
                    sizes existing at Community level in order to facilitate
                   trade . Moreover , it tries to make the wearer more confor-
                   table , thus improving his working conditions and even
                   his safety , and it aims at increasing the market value
                   of the European products which will take this quality
                    factor into account .
Project Nr 6 - QuaJ.itjr_of_kni.tted fabrics and knitwear articles ^
                   Knitted fabrics represent 1 / 8 of textile production .
                   The project aims at an improvement in quality : dimensional
                - stability , improved properties of use and maintenance
                   of appearance , over a vast range of products and fibres .
                    The aim is to improve competitiveness by a better
                   price quality ratio and a quicker reaction_to market
                    requirements . The large number of laboratories taking
                   part in the project is due to the wide variety of articles
                    studied and the very wide geographic distribution of this
                    sector . However , the spread of improved techniques will
                   be all the wider , the greater the number of laboratories
                   providing results .                  <-
Project Nr 7 - Application of new spinning technologies in the wool
                  industry .
                  The European wool industry alone employs 300,000 people and
                  accounts for 52# of world production of combed yarns and
                  56% of carded yarns . The requisite experience is therefore
                  available for a technological leap forward , backed by
                  appropriate textile research , but the makers of process
                  control machinery and equipment will only take an interest
        ;         in this market , particularly the carded yarn market
                 .( not very important on the world scale , but important to
                  the Community , and particularly to certain regions ) ,
 ---pagebreak---                      if the laboratories introduce innovations . Such
                     technological progress ( introduction of open-end
                  * spinning and product-characterization tests ) is indispen­
                     sable for better economic competitiveness and the
                     improvement of products .        .
      I
Project Nr 8 - Upgrading o f linen .
                .  t This project took shape as a result of cooperation
                      started between certain countries and laboratories
                      by the International Linen and Hemp Commission ( CILC ).
                    . Closer cooperation would be obtained within the
                      COMITEXTIL framework , with the support of the EEC * to
                      speed up the technological changes envisaged , from
                      the fibre to the finis he d product . The agri cultural
                      phase is already assisted by the EEC : the industrial
                      phase must also make progress , to reduce costs , inigrove
                      the regularity of product s , increase product ivity } confer­
        ■ ' *         new properties on the fabrics and conquer new market s .
Project Nr 9       Pollution_treatment and water recycling in textile finis-
                   hing_ factories ^
                      The European finishing industry uses 500 million m        of,~
              "       water per annum ( and supplies are limited ), which it .
                      discharges as polluted effluent ; this situation is
          '           unacceptable arid heavily taxed . The purpose of the
                      project , which concerns the most heavily polluting sectors
                      is to determine exactly the optimum conditions of
                      waste water treatment , complete or partial recycling , and
                      the elimination of solids . The institutes taking part
                       ( Holland , Belgium , Italy , France and Great Britain ) have
                      considerable laboratory and industrial experience .
 ---pagebreak---                                     - 8 -
Budget .
For the three year period , it is estimated that the expenditure
incurred in the performance of the programme , including the
expenditure for two officials , which shall be borne by the
Community shall amount to k.2 M. EUA out of a total of 7*95 M.EUA
( see financial documents for additional information ).
Those funds will serve to finance the cost-sharing research
contracts to be concluded by the Contractor ( Comitextil ) with,
the laboratories of the member States and to cover the expenditure for
the management and co-ordination of the programme .
Implementation and Management of the programme .
The Commission shall be responsible for managing the programme .
The Services . of the Commission , together with the Contractor
 ( COMITEXTIL ) and its management council , already appointed for
the first programme , shall ensure the management of the programme .
The Scientific and Technical Research Committee ( CREST ) shall be
regularly informed of the progress of work and of the results
obtained by research .                       ,
Dissemination of information .
The dissemination of the information resulting from the execution
of the programme shall be governed by Council Regulation ( EEC )
Nr 2380/ 7 ^ of 17 September 197^.
 ---pagebreak---                                  - 9 -
                          FINANCIAL  ASPECTS .
  Budget Chapter ; 3720 .                 ^      -
  Heading of the Budget title : second sectoral Programme for
  Research and Development in the field of textile and clothing . '
                    f                        4
  Juri dic al B asis .                         ...
•   pursuant to article 235 establishing the E.E.C.             T
  - Council decision .                             ■   ~  .
  Description .objectives and justification of action .
  U.1 . Description
  The action aims at :
  - the improvement of the competitiveness of the European textile
    industry in the world ,
  - meeting the requirements and expectations of consumers ,
  - the improvement of working conditions or production conditions
  - the introduction of new methods , machinery or products , ,
  - economy on energy , materials and working time
  - ënvironment protection ,
  - contributing towards the maintenance and improvement of the
    general economy of the E.E.C. ,
  U.2 . Objectives .
  To understand basic data ( physico-chemical structure of natural
  and man-made fibres , identification of relationships between
  structures and properties , devising of ways and means of modify­
  ing structure in order to change properties either to remedy t
  natural defects or to confer improved or completely novel
  properties such as de-creasability flame-proofing , easy-care
  properties ).
                                               *
  To devise more efficient manufacturing -processes ( which involves
  studying both machines and processes ); this work requires a
  knowledge of existing technologies and of recent research findings ,
  so that steps can be taken to prepare for the transfer of knowledge
  acquired to the stage of industrial application .
 ---pagebreak---                                     - 10-
4.3.. Justification .
Research and development is an essential preliminary to the
development of new and improved products and the maintenance
of market shares despite increased competition throughout the
world ; it thus forms and essential component of Community
strategy in the textiles sector , ( l )
Fi nancial i nciden ce o f acti on in M. EUA ( in current prices )
5_10:__Financial_incidence on expenditure .
5.0 . 0 . Total cost during the t e rm envisaged .
- on Community budget :                      U.2 . M. EUA
- by the "Industry " sector :                U.05 M. EUA
    Total cost                               8.25 M. EUA
5^0 . 1 ^ Multi annual Schedule ^
Multi annual actions to be entered in the budget as a single commit­
ment appropriation for the whole term envisaged and as payment
appropriations .
                                  Table I .
                          Commitment        Schedules of foreseeable payments
                          schedules         needs in terms of payment appropi
                                            1st year    2nd year   3rd year
 ( single )
                                                                 é
 commitment
 appropri ation
 depending on
Council Decision              4.2               1.75      1.575        0.875
                            TOTAL                         4.2 MUCE
Those actions continue until the end of the third year , Table II
 shows the schedule for possible payments .
 ( l ) At its U82 nd meetirg on 19th July 1978 , the Commission
 approved a communication to the Council on general guidelines
 for a textiles and clothing industry policy ( COM 78-362 final
 of July 20th 1978 )
 ---pagebreak---                                         - 11-
                                    TABLE      II .
                        Actions of the                 Management of
                        programme                      the programme .
 1st year                     1.650   '                     0.100         1.750
 2nd year                     1.U75                         0.100         1.575
  3rd year                    0.775 '                       0.100.        0.875
  TOTAL                       3-900 -                       0.300         U. 200
                                                                    in M. EUA .
  5 . 0.2 . Utilization rate_of the payment appropn at ions in 1st exercice
  1st Semester of 1st year                  30# i.e.  0.500 M. EUA
  2nd semester of lst year                  70% i.e . 1.1 50 M. EUA
■ 5.0.3 . Method of calculation .
  Since the expenditure in respect of contracts vary according to the
  nature of the subjects and the different legal systems of the
  participating laboratories , it is not possible to set up a
  uniform method of calculation for the participation rates            ,
  per project .       ,
  In any case , the contractor and its management Council for the
  research programme have implemented the annual breakdown of the
  working expenditure of laboratories for each project , as set out
  in the summary table giving the amount^ of expenditure .
 ---pagebreak---                            *    ■
                                                       . - i2-
                        Laboratories expenditures broken down per ye ar and per project .
                                                                                       in E.U.A.
             Topics                (l)        1st year        2nd year      3rd year           TOTAL
   1 . Topic 5                                246.000        3U1+.000       396.000       986.000
[ 1.1 . Personal         costs                186.000        261.000        299-000       746.000
   1.2 . Overheads                                9.000       12.000         14.000         35-000
   1.3 . Laboratories costs                       9.000       12.000         14.000         35.000
   1.4 . Cost for materials                       7.000        9-000         10.000         26.000
   1.5 - Cost for instruments                   35-000        50.000         59-000       144.000
   2 . Topic 6                                323.000        453.000        518.000  h . 29 ^. 000
   2.1 . Personal        costs                265.000        37 1 • 000     423-000  h . 059 . 000
   2.2 . Overheads                               13.000       18.000         22.000         53.000
   2.3 . Laboratories costs                      13.000       18.000         22.000         53.000
   2.4 . Cost for materials                      16.000       22.000         26.000         64.000
| 2.5 . Cost for instruments                     16.000       24.000         25.000         65.000
   3 . Topic 7                                255.000        357.000        408.000  1.020.000
   3.1 . Personal costs                      > 175-000       245.000        280.000       700.000
   3-2 . Overheads                                9.000       12.000         14.000          35.000
   3.3 . Laboratories costs                     - 9-000       12.000         14.000          35-000
   3.4 . Cost for materials                      12.000       17.000         19.000          48.000
   3.5 . Cost for instruments                    50.000       71 . 000       81.000       202.000
 I 4 . Topic 8                                644.000        901.000    h . 030.000  P. 575 . 000
         1 .  Personal costs                  451 . 000      631.000    ΓΤ2Ο . ΟΟΟ    1 . 802.000
    i, . 2 . Overheads                           22.000       31.000         37.000          90.000
    ),. 3 . Laboratories costs                   22 . 000     31.000         37.000          90.000
    ),. 4 . Cost for materials                   52.000       72.000         32.000       206.000
    h . 5 * Cost for instruments                 97.000     136.000         154.000       387.000
   5 . Topic 9                                 338.000      473.000         542.000   1.353.000
   5.1 . Personal costs                       250.000       350.000 .       400.000   1.000.000
   5.2 . Overheads                               13-000      17.000          20.000          50.000
   5.3 . Laboratories costs                      13.000      17.000          20.000          50.000
   5.4 . Cost for materials                      14.000      19.000          21.000          54.000
   5.5 . Cost for instruments                    48.000      70.000          81.000       199.000
   TOTAL TOPICS                             1.806.000 2 . 528.000       2 . 89^.000  7.228.000
    CENTRAL MANAGEMENT EXPENDITURES J
   Mana^or.ent costs :
    administration costs                         90.000      126.000        145.000       361.000
   Overheads                                  » 14.000        20.000         24.000        . 58.000
    Trans ?! t expenditures :
    Meetings costs                               36.000       51 . 000       58.000       145.000
 I Technical and Material services               27.000       38.000         43.000       108.000
 i Un foreseeable                                13.000        18.000         19.000         50.000
 1 GENERAL EXPENDITURES TOTAL             I    180.000       253.000        289.000       722.000
 j GLOBAL AMOUNT                            1.986.000j;2.781.000        3.183.000    7.950.000
     ( l ) Topics numbers follow number applied for the first collective research
             programme .
 ---pagebreak---              ■              Estimated breakdown of E.E.C. contribution .
                                                                  in E.U.A.
Budget      Annual     Work of     EEC          advance payment      estimate.d
Year        break-      labora­    theore-      at 1 . 1 . 79 to be  E.E.C.
            down        tories     tical        audited on 31 •      contri­
            (1)         per        contri­      12.81 ( cash fund    bution
                       year        bution       referred to in
                        (1)        (± k9% )     Art . 5-6 of the
                                                general terms
                                            ■K-
                                                and conditions .
                                                Contract 195 -75~
                                                12 IRAB-Annex 3 ,
                                                of 1st Program . )
1st year       25%  1.986.000          974.000     + 676.000 ( 2 )      1.650.000
2nd year       35% 2.781.000        1.366.000      + 112.000            1.478.000
3rd year       h0%  3 . 181.000      1.560.000              0             772.000
3 year      1 00%  7.950.000        3.900.000                          3.900.000
          J
( 1 ) cf. Annual breakdown of laboratory operating costs .                  ,
( 2 ) i.e. 70# of the amount contributed for the 1st budget year ( instead
      of the 50# effectively paid for programme Nr l ) , taking into account
      the important advance investments for work to be made .
 ---pagebreak---                                   - 14-
              List of laboratories participating ■
              Î2_^Ë_EE°S ramme *
  Countries                  Laboratories                 Address
  BELGIUM-        Centre Scientifique et            Rue Montoyer 24
                  Technique de l' Industrie         10Ï+0 BRUXELLES
                  Textile Belge
                  ( CENTEXBEL )
                  Onderzoek en voorlichtings­       8810 Ruinbeke Provincie
                  centrum voornij verheidsteelten   West-Vlaanderen
                  ( BEITEM )
  NETHERLANDS     Vezelinstituut TNO                Schoenmakerstraat , 97
                  ( TNO )                           Postbus , 110
                                                  I DELFT
                  Instituut voor Landbouw-
                  techniek en Rationalisatie        Postbus U3 - Wageningen
                  ( LBD )
  FRANCE         institut Textile de France         35 3 rue des Abondances
                  ( ITF )                           F 92100 BOULOGNE-
                                                    SUR-SEINE
                  Centre d' Etudes Techniques des   14 , rue des Reculet-
                  Industries de l' Habillement      tes
                  ( CETIH )                         F 75013 PARIS
                  Institut Textile du Lin           5 , rue du Cardinal
                  ( I.T.L. )                        Mercier
                                                    F 75009 PARIS
I
  ITALY           Tecnotessile - Centro di          Via Valentini , 14
                  Ricerche - S.p.A.                 I 500^7 PRATO ( Firenze )
                  Centro Riccerche e Sperimen­      5 Piassa Lamarnora
                  tazione per l' Industria          I 13051 BIELLA
                  Laniera "Oreste Rivetti "
                   ( Rivetti )
                  Stazione Sperimentale per         Piazza Leonardo da
                  la Cellulosa , Carta e Fibre      Vici , 26
                  Tessili Vegetali ed               I 20122 MILANO
                  Artificiali ( Stazione Cell .)
 ---pagebreak---                                               t
                                 - 15-
 Countries                  Laboratories              Address
F • R • G»    Bekleidungsphysiologisches      Schlosse Hohenstein,
               Institut- e.v .                D 712U BOENNIGHEIM
               ( B.P.I )
              Deutsche s WollforaehungB-      Veltmanplatz ,8
              Institut                        D 5100 AACHEN
              •( D.W.F.I )
               Institut fur Textiltechnick    Burgstrasse , 29
               ( TECH )                       D 7^10 Reutlingen          ,
                                              Bahnhoh
              Forschungsinstitut für          Am Bahnhof 6 » Leinenmeisterhaus
              Bastfasern e.V.   V             D 1+800 BIELEFELD
               ( T.F. )
UNITED         - Wool Industries Research    Headingley Lane
KINGD0M '      Association ( WIRA)           Leeds LS 6 1 BW
               - Lambeg Industrial           Lisburn Bt 27    'h RJ
               Research Association          Northern Ireland
               ( LIRA )
           I
            I
               - Cotton , Silk & Man-Made    Didsbury
               Fibers Research Assoc .       Manchester Mro 8 RX
               Shirley Institute ( SHIRLEY )
               - Hosiery and Allied          7 Gregory Boulevard
               Trades Research Association   Nottingham NG 7 6 LD
               ( HATRA)
                                                                 i
 ---pagebreak---                                      - 16 -
            Labor atori es garticiriation "broken down per project .
       !                  Todîcs                              Programme
Coun-                                        56789            leader ( P )
,ries    Laborat,ories^^s^-            |                      Topics leaders
                              ^                               (P)
  Β      σίΝΤΕΧΒΕΙ,                              χχ      χ χ ρ . 6 σ.δΤΚΥΟΚΜΑΝ
                                                              (Β)
         ΒΕΙΤΕΜ                                          χ
  NL     TNO                                     x I     x  x
         ΙΒϋ                                             χ
  F      ITF              "                    , x   x   x x  P. M. CORDELIER(F )
         CETIH                             x                  p. 9 . B.KOUSSENS(F)
         ITL                                             x
  I      TECWOTESSILE                                x        p. 7 . M. BONA(l )
         ΚίνΕΤΤΙ                                            χ
         8ΤΑΖΙ0ΝΞ ΟΕΙΙ..                         χ       χ
   FRG   B P I                             x                  p. 5 . J . MECHEELS ,      ,
                                                                                  v î RG )
         DWFI                                    xx
         TECH .                  ■               x
                                   I
         T. F.                                           x
  U.K.   WIRA                                          x   x
         LIRA                                            x
         SHIRLEY                           x               x  p. 8 . HAC TODD(RU )
         HATRA                                   xx
                                           3     7     4 9' 7
  (■     Number of Institvte *           Total participations
                18                                * 31
 ---pagebreak---        6.1 . The services of the Commission and. the Management Council
         ■ - of the programme shall control the implementation of the
             research contract .
             Budget implementation       : D.G. on Financial Control
             Regularity of expenditure : D.G. III .
 - 7 . Financial implication of the action during the entire period
       ( in M. EUA)
       7.0.1 . Expenditure ( costs ) shouldered by the Community budget
                                                                        U.200
                            - 0.3
                                                                                 S
       7.0.2 . Expenditure ( costs ) shouldered by the industry         4.05
                                                  TOTAL                 8.25 M. EUA
8 . Information on neces sary personnel and operating expenses
     implementing the action .
   8.0 Necessary personnel .
         1.A
         . _   ) i.e . 0.300 M. EUA         }■
9 . Funding action
     Funds to be included m future budgets
as Temporary agents for the duration of the programme
 ---pagebreak--- ANNEX 1 .
                  DECISION OF THE COUNCIL ADOPTING
       A SECOND MULTIANNUAL RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME
       IN THE FIELD OF TEXTILE AND CLOTHING FOR THE EUROPEAN
                       ECONOMIC COMMUNITY .
                   ( Indirect action )
                                       ?»
 ---pagebreak---                        COUNCIL      DECISION
            ADOPTING A SECOND MULTIANNUAL RESEARCH AND -
            DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME FOR THE EUROPEAN          '
             COWUNITY IN THE FIELD OF TEXTILE AND CLOTHING . ,
                     ι                '   ~
                           ( Indirect action ).
The Council of the European Communities :
- Having regard to the Treaty establishing the European              -
    Economic Community , and in particular Article 235 thereof ,
- Having regard to the proposal from the Commission ,
- Having regard to the opinion of the European Parliament ,
- Having regard to the opinion of the Economic and Social Committee ,
Whereas , on lVth January 197^ » the Council has adopted a resolution
on the coordination of the national policies and on the definition
of measures of Community interest in the science and technology
sector ; ( 1 )                    .          -            1
Whereas , pursuant to Article 2 of the Treaty , the Community has
the task of promoting throughout the Community a . harmonious development
of economic activities and a continuous and balanced expansion ;
Whereas , on lU th April 1975 , the Council adopted a programme of
technological research in the textile sector ( 2 ).
Whereas the research programme which is the subject matter of this ;
decision constitutes the continuation of the above mentioned           -
programme and is working towards many objectives , such as : improved
competitiveness of the European textile and clothing industry on the
world scfene ; the improvement of working conditions and of production
conditions ; needs and expectations of consumers ; introduction
of new methods , machinery or products ; economy on energy ; environment
protection ; representing a decisive stage in the develoment of the
textile industry which is a sector of economic importance to the
Community .                             ,
 1 . Official Journal Nr C 7/ 6 of 29 . 1 • 197^ P«1
2 . Official Journal Nr L 1 11 / 31+ of 30 . U. 1975 p.^3
 ---pagebreak--- Whereas this programme comes withing the framework of a cooperation which
has already been going on for several years within the textile industry ,
and this provides guarantees as to its rational and fruitful performance ;
Whereas from that moment the research action projects which are the
subject matter of this decision appear to be necessary for the carrying
out of objectives stated in the Treaty within the working of the Common
Market ;
Whereas the Commission in its communication to the Council of 20 July 1978
on general Guidelines for a textiles and clothing industry policy recom-
mands technological development ( COM / 78 362 final )
Whereas the Treaty does not provide the specific powers necessary for
this purpose ;
Whereas the Scientific and Technical Research Committee ( CREST ) has
given its opinion concerning the proposal from the Commission ;
                                                                   J
HAS DECIDED     :
                                    Article 1 .
To adopt a Community programme for research and development in the
textile and clothing sector , as described in the annex hereto , for a
period of 3 years .
                                    Α£ΐΐ£ΐβ_2Λ
The global requirements for the total period of the programme are
estimated at 4.2 . million EUA and a staff comprising two agents , the
EUA being defined by article 10 of the financial regulations of
21st December 1977 . These numerical estimates are only intended to be
indicative .
                                    Article 3 .
The Commission shall carry out the programme by means of contracts . In
order to assist it in this task , there shall be set up an advisory commit­
tee on management of the programme of research and development in the
field of textile and clothing , whose terms of reference and composition
shall be defined in accordance with the Council Ressolution of 18 July
1977 on advisory committees on research programme management
 ( O.J. N° C 192 of 11 August 1977 , p. 1 ).
                                    Article 4 .
The information resulting from the execution of the programme shall be
disseminated in accordance with Council Regulation ( EEC ) n° 2380 / 74
of 17 September 1974 ( 1 ) adopting provisions for the dissemination of
 information relating to research programmes for the European Economic
 Community .
                                                For the Counci l ,
 Done at Brussels , ...                                '             , .
                                                          the President .
  ( 1 ) O.J. N° 1 255 of 20.9.1974 , p. 1
 ---pagebreak---                                                            ANNEX .
The programme covers the 5 actions described hereunder :               V     ; .
1 ) Garment physiology and construction .                                  ,
     The project is subdivided into two sub-projects i
     - transposition of garment physiology principles into practice in
       the textile and clothing industry ;
     - garment construction - harmonization of size systems ,.
     There are five main objectives :                    ,
     - improvement of the trade balance of the concerned industries ;
     - possibility to scientificially prepare the garment characteristics
        corresponding to qualification so as to ensure consumer
        protection ;
     - optimum duration of articles and comfort in wear , promoting
        the economy of materials , revalorisation of the professions of
        the clothing sector , and seeking technical possibilities of
        progressing towards a harmonization of the systems of sizes
        existing at Community level .
2 ) Quality of kni tted fabric s and knit ted articl e s .
     It aims at revealing the parameters which influence the quality
     of the products, and the incidence of variations in those parameters
     upon quality .    .
   -          •      •    '           '  '       ...           i   " -   .       > !
3 ) Application of new spinning technologies in the wool industry .
  " The aim of this project consists in developing new spinning
     technologies for wool and its blends and , especially , invcarrying
     out pilot tests on " open-end " machinery . This' enables to attain
     production speeds much superior to those attained with conventional
     processes (5 to 10 times superior ) ; to this dajr those systems
     have aroused the interest of the cotton industry and of sectors
     dealing with certain man-made fibres . Their adoption in the ,wool
     sector first calls for the solving of numerous specific problems
     linked to the chemical nature of the fibre and of its natural
     impurities .                                    • _
 ---pagebreak---                                  - 2 -
4 ) Upgrading of linen .
    The objectives are the following :
    - to increase the quality of the products ( nowadays the flax fibre
      is fashionable )
    - to improve the technological aspect of the equipment in order
      to obtain new products .
    - attractiveness of research for industry : increased productivity ,
      confering new properties on the fabrics , improving the regularity
      of products .
    - improvement of production in cooperation with the European
      agricultural sector .
5 ) Pollution treatment and wate r recycling in textile finishing
    The reclamation of polluting products calls for a preliminary
    investigation which will be effected through the creation of a data-
    bank enabling to set up a mathematical model of pollution .
    Moreover , a method will be devised for measuring the colouring
    of effluents . One of the basic objectives of this action is the
    purification of water , the saving of waterand the alleviation of the
    already heavy charges resulting from those costs which are far higher
    than the ones supported by third competitors .