Patent Abstract:
In the proces of defining quilted fabric, non-stretchable, stretchable and interior layers of materials are wound on separate rollers. Then the layers are positively fed from the rollers to a bi-directional acting sewing assembly wherein the non-stretchable layer is provided with zero elongation and the stretchable layer is provided with 25 to 300 percent stretch. Next, the arranged layers are sewn in sets of sinusoidal-like seam patterns. Finally the stretched layer is permitted to relax to a natural state wherein a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layer normal to stretch direction of the stretchable layer. Result: columns of puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other but are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows by a constant amount.

Full Description:
RELATED PRIOR PATENTS  
       [0001]    In my prior patents, viz., U.S. Pat. No. 5,437,239 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,707,709, there are set forth fabrics, processes and uses involving at least one stretchable layer that is stretched during formation and then allowed to relax thereafter. As a result, a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to the axial stretch direction and in columns. The columns of puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other with each other but are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric. It has now been discovered that if the stretchable layer is stretched in both the axial and laterial directions—simultaneously—during formation, there is improved throughput while retaining an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric. 
     
    
     
       SCOPE OF THE INVENTION  
         [0002]    This invention relates to an improved puffed, quilt-like smocked fabric consisting of a series of layers stitched together in automated manner. In one aspect of the invention, only two layers are used and the second interior layer is fed from a roller via a series of positive acting driver rollers wherein the second layer is stretching in both the axial and laterial directions simultaneously, as lateral direction (or y direction)are thus separately controlled such that the elongation factors Ax and By are additive to define a total elongation that is in the range of 1.25 to 3.00 normalized to the relaxed state of the second layer. In another aspect of the invention, three layers are used in which first and second exterior layers overlay a soft interior layer wherein the second layer undergoes axial and lateral elongation. That is to say, the three layers are fed from a roller via a series of positive acting driver rollers wherein the second layer is stretching in both the axial and lateral directions simultaneously, as stitching occurs. Again, elongations in the axial direction (or x direction) and in the lateral direction (or y direction)are separately controlled such that the elongation factors Ax and By are additive to define a total elongation in the range of 1.25 to 3.00 times the normal relaxed state of the second layer.  
           [0003]    The stitching head undergoes cam controlled lateral movement as a function of axial movement of the layers comprising the fabric of the invention. Result: a saw-toothed stitch pattern is defined when viewed from the second layer but creating worm-like folds when viewed from the outer layer.  
         DEFINITIONS  
         [0004]    These terms are used in this document and are defined as follows:  
           [0005]    SMOCKING—A decorative stitching used in gathering cloth to make it hang in folds.  
           [0006]    QUILT—To stitch together as two pieces of cloth with a soft innerlayer in lines or patterns of square, longitudinal or lateral extending lines.  
           [0007]    FABRIC—Cloth formed by fibers by the processes of weaving, knitting, pressing etc., wherein the fibers can be formed from naturally occurring products such as wool , hair, cotton, flax, hemp or can be formed of synthetic fibers.  
           [0008]    FIBER—The fundamental unit used in the fabrication of textile yarns and fabrics. A unit used in the fabrication of textile yarns and fabrics. A unit of matter characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width, and having definitely preferred orientation of its crystal unit cells with respect to a specific axis.  
           [0009]    SYNTHETIC TEXTILES—A group of man-made fibers made by chemical synthesis or by chemical compounds through interaction.  
           [0010]    STRETCH FABRICS—Cloths that have properties of elongation and recovery from using Spandex and like yarns.  
           [0011]    STRETCH YARNS—Specially treated, synthetic continuous filament yarn. Examples: giving torque or false twist; by deforming them. Merits are rapid and near completed recovery and improved holding power.  
           [0012]    TRIAXIAL STRETCH FABRIC—Cloths that have the ability to stretch and recover along x, y and bias axes in equalized segments, i.e., segment measurements per common length per common tensile force per x, y or bias directions are equalized.  
           [0013]    BIAXIAL STRETCH FABRIC—Cloths that have the ability to stretch and recover along both the bias axis and one of the x or y axis is minimum.  
           [0014]    YARN—A continuous string of textile fibers such as spun or continuous filament yarns. Spun yarn is short fibers while the latter is a grouping of endless parallel continuous filaments, its the basic material made into fabric, thread, twine or cable. It can be woven, knotted, crocheted, tatted, netted or braided depending on the result desired and the character of the yarn. Continuous filament yarns are formed of rayon, nylon and other synthetic textiles.  
           [0015]    YARN NUMBER—A conventional measure of fineness of yarn. In spun yarns, a lower number means the heavier the yarn while a higher number refers to finer-sized yarns. Man-made fibers are measured in deniers and is the reverse of the above, viz., lower number means finer-sized yarns and vice versa.  
         BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION  
         [0016]    In my prior patents, viz., U.S. Pat. No. 5,437,239 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,707,709, there are set forth fabrics, processes and uses involving at least one stretchable layer that is stretched during formation and then allowed to relax thereafter. As a result, a series of puffs are formed in rows across the layers normal to the axial stretch direction and in columns. The columns of puffs of even numbered rows are aligned with each other with each other but are laterally offset with respect to puffs of odd numbered rows a constant amount thereby creating an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric. It has now been discovered that if the stretchable layer is stretched in both the axial and lateral directions-simultaneously-during formation, there is improved throughput while retaining an aesthetically pleasing finished fabric.  
         SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION  
         [0017]    The present invention relates to an improved puffed, smocklike quilted fabric consisting of at least a natural resilient first layer such as velvet, silk or denim overlaying a stretchable second layer. These layers are stitched together in an automated manner. The second layer is a synthetic long chain polymer comprising at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane called “Spandex”, and is fed from a roller via positive pulling and shaping roller system that includes a lateral shaping quide and axial pulling driver roller acting through a series of pole rollers. Result: the second layer undergoes stretching in both the axial and lateral directions simultaneously, as stitching occurs. Elongations in the axial direction (or x direction) and in the laterial direction (or y direction) are defined elongation factors Ax and By which are additive to define a total elongation in the range of 1.25 to 3.00 times the normal relaxed state of the second layer as the passes through a multiple stitching head. The stitching head undergoes cam controlled lateral movement as a function of axial movement of the fabric to provide a puffed, smock-like quilted fabric. The fabric is well adapted for use in making garments such coats as well a coverings for pillows and automotive seats.  
           [0018]    The biaxial stretching capacity of the second layer is normally between 600 to 700% of its normal relaxed state. Hence axial and lateral stretching forces that are applied to the second layer in the range of 1.25 to 3 times the relaxed state, is easily achieved. Note that previously it was explained that the second layer is called by the generic name “Spandex”. Spandex itself is defined as a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chin synthetic polymer comprising at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane (Source: FTC). Examples are Lycra, Glospan and Numa, all trademarked fabrics, In the manufacturing process of Lycra, a trademark of DuPont Company, the segmented polyurethane structure is achieved by reacting dilsocyanates with long chain glycols which are usually polyester or polyethers of 1000 to 2000 molecular weight range. The reaction product is then chain extended through the use of glycol, diamine or water. This gives the final polymer which is converted into fibers by dry spinning. In the finished fiber the chains are randomly oriented and when stretched, the chains become oriented but exhibit spontaneous recovery to the disordered state upon release of the force acting on the fiber.  
           [0019]    During manufacture of the fabric of the invention, the second layer formed of “Spandex” is wound on a roller. The roller is controlled via a positive pulling and shaping roller system that includes a lateral shaping quide and axial pulling driver roller acting in concert with a series of pole rollers. Result: the second layer undergoes stretching in both the axial and lateral directions simultaneously, as stitching occurs. The pulling and shaping roller system also provides uniform movement of the first (upper) layer but only in an axial direction without positive braking pressure being applied. The roller containing the first and second layers are pulled toward the multiple sewing head by a roller adjacent to a lateraling shaping guide and thence through a series of pole rollers to a take-up roller.  
           [0020]    The multiple sewing head is provided with a cam assembly the provides of lateral movement of the plurality of threaded needles to provide side-by-side sinusoidal line patterns. The plurality of threaded needles are divided into a first set provided with common lateral movement through a first cam and cam follower subassembly. Between neighboring needles of the first set, there is provided a needles of the second set. Such needles is provided with opposite movement through a second cam and cam follower subassembly. As a result, its sinusoidal line pattern is complementary to line pattern of the first set. After the quilted fabric passes downstream of the driver, the second layer of Spandex is permitted to return to it relaxed state and the finished fabric is wound about a final roller. The finished fabric as viewed from the first layer in its relaxed state comprises rows of elongated puffs extending above a base line and of uniform length normal to the precursor initial stretch direction of the second layer defined during sewing. The ends of adjacent puffs of any row are crimped by stitching so that any one row of puffs resembles a string of attached wieners. Between successive rows, the crimped ends of the puffs of one row are offset relative to he crimped ends of its next adjacent neighboring row of puffs. Thus, the columns of puffs of every other row are aligned but successive columns are offset. As a result, an aesthetically pleasing fabric is formed that has be useful in making coats (the rows of puffs running in vertical manner from the neck toward the belt and sleeves) and in padding walls of a casket as well as a covering for pillows and automotive seats. 
       
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS  
       [0021]    [0021]FIG. 1 is a schematic view illustrating the process by which invention is performed including a series of rollers carrying thereon first and second layers in an axial direction toward a sewing head, the laying being pulled in a positive sense by a positive roller adjacent to a lateral shaping guide thence through the sewing head and then onto a take-up roller;  
         [0022]    [0022]FIG. 2 is an end view, partially cut-away, of the take-up roller about the second layer is wound having a braking system;  
         [0023]    [0023]FIG. 3 is a detail side view, partially schematic, of the cam assembly for providing bilateral, independent movement of the two sets of needles comprising the multiple needle head wherein sinusoidal stitching pattern is provided the layers passing adjacent to the needles head;  
         [0024]    [0024]FIG. 4 is a plan view of the puffed fabric wound of he take up roller of FIG. 1 in which the second layer is in relaxed state:  
         [0025]    [0025]FIGS. 5 and 6 are vertical sections taken along line  5 - 5  and  6 - 6 , respectively, of FIG. 4;  
         [0026]    [0026]FIG. 7 is bottom view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;  
         [0027]    [0027]FIG. 8 is a plan view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;  
         [0028]    [0028]FIG. 9 is a bottom view of the puffed fabric of FIG. 4;  
         [0029]    [0029]FIG. 10 is a front view of a buttoned coat constructed with the puffed fabric of the invention in which rows of puffs run in a vertical manner;  
         [0030]    [0030]FIG. 11 is a front view of the coat of FIG. 10;  
         [0031]    [0031]FIG. 12 is a top view of a covering that is used to cover a pillow or an automotive seat;  
         [0032]    [0032]FIG. 13 is a front perspective view of the lateral guide of the pulling and shaping system of FIG. 1.  
     
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION  
       [0033]    [0033]FIG. 1 illustrates in schematic fashion, an assembly  9  by which the process of the present invention is performed. As shown, a series of rollers  10 ,  11 ,  12 , and are depicted upstream of a multiple sewing head assembly  14  and together with lateral guide  13  comprise a pulling and guiding assembly  8 . The function of the pulling guiding assembly  8  is explained in more detail below. Downstream from the sewing head assembly  14  is a series of pole rollers  15   a ,  15   b , and  15   c  and take-up roller  16 . A non-stretch layer  20  such as velvet, silk and/or denim is wound about the roller  10  and is fed upward toward the sewing head assembly  14  via drive roller  11   i  in contact with upper surface  20   a  of the layer  20 . A stretchable layer  22  is wound about feed roller  12  and travels upward into contact with the non-stretch layer  20  at the driver roller  11 . A lower surface  22   a  of the stretchable layer  22  is placed in contact with lateral guide  13  and is forced into lateral stretching as explained below. Suffice to say, the layers  20 ,  22  pass between the drive roller  11  and lateral stretching guide  13  so that they are placed in planar face-to-face relationship with the non-stretch layer above the stretchable layer  22  but the stretchable layer  22  undergoes both axial and lateral stretching. That is to say, as the layers  20 ,  22  pass between the positive roller  11  and the lateral guide  13  under positive axial pressure (because of positive axial pressure applied by the roller  11 ), the stretchable layer  22  passes over arcuate surface  13   a  of the lateral guide  13  and is undergoes lateral stretching.  
         [0034]    [0034]FIG. 13 shows how lateral stretching occurs.  
         [0035]    As shown, the lateral guide  13  includes a series of ridges  13   b  across the surface  13   a  which are shaped so that the right-hand set  5  spirals to the right as viewed starting from edge  13   d , and the left-hand set  6  spirals to the left. Result: assuming that centerlines of the layer  22  coincides with centerline  13   e  of the guide  13 , lateral stretching occurs as a function of the angle A of the ridges  13   b  in the manner of arrows  4 . Attachment of the lateral guide  13  is via threads of bolts  13   c  attached at upper edge  13   e.    
         [0036]    Returning to FIG. 1, the formed layers  20 ,  22  pass between the sewing head assembly  14  under the positive axial and lateral pressure provided by roller  11  and lateral guide  13 . The rollers  10  and  12  are thus unwound under the positive forces applied thereto by the latter at the downstream side of the sewing head assembly  14 . The roller  12  is provided with conventional tension controls for holding proper tension on the layer  22 . The same tension is also applied to positive pole rollers  15   a ,  15   b  and  15   c  on the upstream stream side of the sewing head assembly  14 . Once in rotation, the rollers  10 ,  11  and  12  tend to rotate with constant velocities. In this regard, the rollers  10  and  12  include braking assembly  30 , as shown in FIG. 2. The purpose of the braking assembly  30 : to cause biaxial stretching of the lower layer  22  wound about roller  12  (see FIG. 1) in an amount 25 to 300% of the relaxed state of the layer  22 , as previously mentioned, as well as to cause 0% elongation of the top layer  20 . After the lower layer  22  is permitted to relax the finished fabric  17  of the invention is wound about take-up roller  16 .  
         [0037]    [0037]FIG. 2 shows the braking assembly  30  in more detail. As shown, FIG. 2 relates to roller  12  but the description which follows is also germane to similar braking assemblies associated with the roller  10 . As shown, end  31  of the roller  12  rotates within a stationary drum  32  attached to upright standard  33 . The drum  32  has an end wall  34  and side wall  35  that extend adjacent to the end  31  of the roller  12 . The end wall  34  includes a hub  36  that attaches to the upright standard  33 . Note that the circumferencial side wall  34  extends over a portion of the circuferential surface  37  of the roller  12 . An arcuate brake pad  38  is placed in contact with outer surface  37  of the roller  12  and is capable of radial movement in the direction of arrow  39  via bolts  40  having interior ends that butt against the pad  38 . As shown, the bolts  40  attach to and through threaded openings (not shown) in the side wall  35  of the drum  32 . Note that the tension applied by the separate brake assemblies  30  to the rollers  10  and  12  of FIG. 1 is separately adjustable. The purpose of the adjustments: to cause biaxial stretching of the lower layer  22  in an amount 25 to 300% of the relaxed state of the layer  22 , as previously mentioned as well as to cause 0% elongation of the top layer  20 . Since the amount of tension for the rollers  10 ,  12  is constant, the maximum braking or friction force for rollers  10 ,  12  is a function of the elongation strength of the layers  20 ,  22 . However, such tension force is below the ultimate strength of the layer  20  but is sufficient to provide between 25 to 300% elongation of the layer  22 .  
         [0038]    Returning to FIG. 1, while the sewing head assembly  14  is typical for the purpose of stitching the layers  20 - 22  together using side-by-side needle bars  49   a ,  49   b  having separate side walls  46  into which needles  47  are attached. The needle bars  49   a ,  49   b  are also controlled to undergo separate, lateral movement, however. The direction of such lateral movement is depicted by arrow  50  in FIG. 3. In addition, the needles  47  of the needle bars  49   a ,  49   b  also undergo typical vertical movement in the direction of arrow  51 . As a result, thread releasably attached to the needles  47  is caused to enter the layers  20 ,  22  to provide typical stitching patterns  53 ,  54  of FIGS. 8 and 9 as viewed from the top layer  20  and bottom layer  22 , respectively.  
         [0039]    Lateral movement of the needle bars  49   a ,  49   b  is depicted in detail in FIG. 3.  
         [0040]    As shown, the needle bar  49   a  has an end  55  forming a cam follower surface in contact with surface  57  of cam subassembly  58 . The end  55  is provided positive surface tension via spring  60  so that the interaction of the shape of the surface  57  of the rotating cam  58   a  of the cam subassembly  58  provides for left-hand stitchings  53   a ,  54   a  of the patterns  53 ,  54  respectively shown in FIGS. 8 and 9. Returning to FIG. 3, note that needle bar  49   a  is open along its bottom edge  59 . As a consequence the needles  47  associated with the needle bar  49   a  form a first set, while the needles  47  associated with the needle bar  49   b  forms a second set. Between neighboring needles  47  of the first set, there is a needle  47  of the second set controlled by needle bar  49   b.    
         [0041]    That is to say, the needle bar  49   b  has an end  64  forming a cam follower surface in contact with surface  67  of cam  68   a  of cam subassembly  68 . The end  64  is provided positive surface tension via spring  69  so that the interaction of the shape of the surface  67  of the rotating cam  68   a  of the cam subassembly  68  provides for the right-hand stitchings  53   b ,  54   b  of the patterns  53 ,  54 , respectively shown in FIGS. 8 and 9. Note in FIGS. 8 and 9 that uniform tension has been applied to the finshed fabric  17  in the direction of arrow  60  to provide biaxial stretch as the needle bars  49   a ,  49   b  move laterally to the direction of application of the tensil force (T), see FIG. 1. In addition, the seam patterns  53 ,  54  are seen each to be sinusoidal-like in plan view, oscillating about axes of formation  62  wherein peaks  53   b ,  54   b  and troughs  53   c ,  54   c  of side-by-side seams laterally coincide in a direction normal to arrow  60 .  
         [0042]    As a result of the relative stetching of the layer  22  as the complementary sinudoidal stitch patterns  53 ,  54  of FIGS. 8 and 9 are laid down, there is provided a series of improved puffs  70  of the surface of layer  20  and in layer  22  as shown in FIGS. 4 and 7, respectively. Note that in FIG. 4, the puffs  70  are shaped as shown as soon as the the pre-tensioning force in the direction of arrows  60  in FIGS. 8 and 9 are released and the layer  22  of FIG. 7 is permitted to relax as the finished fabric  17  of FIG. 1 is wound about take-up roller  16 . Note that the puffs  73  appear on the surface of the layer  20  and layer  22  as shown in FIGS. 4 and 7, respectively.  
         [0043]    [0043]FIGS. 5 and 6 are sections that illustrate the shape of the puffs  70  in more detail as viewed along columnar lines  5 - 5  and  6 - 6  of FIGS. 5 and 6, respectively.  
         [0044]    Note in FIG. 5 that the section is taken through rows R 1 , R 2  . . . Rx of the puffs  70  of FIG. 4 such that the section line of the odd rows R 1 , R 3 , R 5  . . . passes through arcuate ends  71  of the puffs  70  of such odd rows. Thus the puffs  70  of the odd numbered rows R 1 , R 3  . . . in FIG. 4 are columnarly aligned. Also the puffs of the even numbered rows R 2 , R 4  . . . are columarly aligned but offset from puffs  70  of the odd numbered rows R 1 , R 3  . . . But the section line is seen to also bisect the puffs  70  of the even rows R 2 , R 4  . . . at maximum height h of each puff  70 . As a result, the puffs  70  of the even rows R 2 , R 4  . . . define cavities  72  between top and bottom layers  20 ,  22 .  
         [0045]    While the layers  20   22  forming the puffs  70  of the odd rows R 1 , R 3  . . . follow the same contour so that the cavities  73  are of minimum volume.  
         [0046]    Note in FIG. 6 that the section is taken through rows R 1 , R 2  . . . Rx of the puffs  70  at a columnar location in which the height h of the puffs  70  is seen to be essentially constant from row-to-row. Moreover, the cavities  72 ,  73  of the rows R 1 , R 2 , R 3  . . . are of the same shape and volume. The cavities  72 ,  73  are formed between top and bottom layers  20 ,  22 .  
         [0047]    But referring again to FIG. 4, the puffs  70  of odd numbered rows R 1 , R 3 , R 5  . . . are seen to be columnarly aligned. Also the puffs  70  of the even numbered rows R 2 , R 4 , R 6  . . . are likewise columnarly aligned but are offset from puffs  70  of the odd numbered rows R 1 , R 3  . . . by a constant amount, say equal to L/2 where L is the length of each puff  70 .  
         [0048]    [0048]FIGS. 10 and 11 illustrate a garment  80  in the form of a jacket comprising an outer shell  81  formed of the finished fabric  17  associated with take-up roller  16 , see FIG. 1. The outer shell  81  has a pair of front panels  82 ,  83  attached to a waistband  79  and a rear panel  85 . The rear panel  85  is attached to the front panels via shoulder seams  84 . Sleeves  86  are also a component of the outer shell  81  and are attached via an arcuate set of seams  87  to the front and rear panels  82 ,  83  and  85 . An attached collar  86 , front button bands  87 ,  88  and inner liner  89 , complete the garment  80 . The collar  86  attaches to the upper edges of the front and rear panels  82 ,  83  and  85 . The button bands  87 ,  88  attach vertically between the collar  86  and the waistband  79  and laterally via side edges  90  of front panels  82 ,  83 . Note that the puffs  70  of the outer shell  81  has rows R 1 , R 2 , R 3  . . . that run generally in a vertical pattern between the waistband  79  and the collar  86 . As a result, the vertical line of the puffs  70  is generally slimming to the user and pleasing to the eye of the on-looker.  
         [0049]    [0049]FIG. 12 is a top view of a cover  92  for use in association with a pillow or with an automotive seat. If the cover  92  is used with a pillow, the cover  92  would include both front and rear panel  93 ,  94  but for use in covering an automotive seat, the cover  92  would only include a single panel  93  or  94  but not both. Each such panel  93  or  94  includes top and bottom edges  96 ,  97  and a pair of side edges  98 . If used in association with pillow, the panels  93 ,  49  are attached via top and bottom seams  99  and side seams  100 . The resulting puffs  70  of the cover  92  run generally parallel to the top and bottom edges  96 ,  97  so as to be pleasing to the eye of the on-looker.  
         [0050]    While preferred embodiments have been shown and described in the foregoing, it will be understood that the invention is capable of numerous modifications, rearrangements and substitutions without departing from the spirit of the invention as set forth in the appended claims. For example, the invention is capable of being carried out using a quilting machine manufactured by Edgewater Machine Company, 13-20 131st St., College Park, N.Y. wherein such machine is modified to provide correct braking of the layers of material prior to sewing and to provide correct movement of the sewing head relative to such layers as sewing occurs.

Technology Classification (CPC): 3