Abstract:
An applique comprising an outer perimeter fabric frame of a particular weave, fiber composition and cut coated with a laminating adhesive, and inlayed wife a central fabric panel formed of mesh or other perforated or highly porous material. Lamination causes the adhesive to melt through the mesh central panel and bond the two layers to an underlying performance fabric substrate. The resulting applique forms a robust and launderable bond, but does not substantially change fee physical and visual characteristics of a performance fabric substrate to which the applique is applied. Moreover, a layered embroidery appearance can be created by contrast coloring the fabric frame versus central fabric panel, and this is further enhanced by printing a multi-color graphic along the periphery of the fabric frame.

Description:
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION 
       [0001]    The present application derives priority from U.S. Provisional Application Ser. No. 61/888,261 filed Oct. 8, 2013. 
     
    
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
       [0002]    1. Field of the Invention 
         [0003]    The present invention relates to heat activated transfers and appliques and, particularly, to a light-weight breathable heat-transfer comprised of numbers, letters, logos, graphics, and other indicia which do not change the physical and visual characteristics of performance fabrics to which they are applied, including breathability, moisture-wicking characteristics, stretch and recovery, and launderability. 
         [0004]    2. Description of the Background 
         [0005]    Manufacturers of performance apparel, uniforms, swimwear, and sports accessories use various methods to apply a variety of indicia, such as text, numbers, logos, graphics, and other indicia, to garments and textiles for decoration and identification, among other things. Common application technologies include silk-screening, screen-printing, sonic welding, direct embroidery, and heat activated transfers. 
         [0006]    Silk-screening of logos or emblems is commonly used, but this process does not result in a product that withstands repeated stretching, and is complex and time-consuming. In addition, the designs created by silk-screening are flat, lack texture, and do not withstand repeated stretching or industrial or home washings. Consequently, many companies prefer embroidery as their primary method for applying decoration and identification. 
         [0007]    Sonic welding is another method used to apply decoration and identification to garments and textiles. The nature of a sonic-welded bond is a fusing of materials which results in a rigid material interface. The rigid interface causes cracking and potential sheering when stretched, and can debond after repeated home and industrial laundering. Sonic welding allows texturing, but also requires chemical compounds that some companies find unacceptable. Moreover, sonic welding requires the creation of unique, expensive special dies for any design to be applied. Consequently the process is slow, relatively expensive, and not well-suited for the performance apparel industry and its small-batch production/quick-changeover requirements. Indeed, this process typically is not used by the uniform industry for these reasons. Embroidery has instead become the primary method for applying decoration and identification. 
         [0008]    Embroidery is typically performed by a machine that applies stitching of various colors and styles to fabric to create a design. Embroidered designs have a much greater aesthetic value, and stand repeated home and industrial launderings. Yet this too is a complex, time-consuming process. While appliques stitched have more potential to stretch mechanically then welded bonds they are still limited by the sewn threads which constrain elongation and can break if stretched. 
         [0009]    Thermally activated adhesive coatings are also used to apply appliques to garments and textiles. One common type of applique, typical of sports jersey and uniform, numbering and lettering, is a layered applique comprising a solid first base layer that defines a numeral or letter and one or more top layers that are the same shape, but smaller than the layer below it, thereby creating a three dimensional appearance. Typically, each additional top layer is stitched to the layer below it. On the back of the solid base layer is a layer of thermally activated adhesive that covers the entire back surface. The solid fabric layers in combination with the solid adhesive coating result in a rigid, thick and relatively heavy, and moisture/air impermeable applique. Thus, when such an applique is applied to a substrate that is more flexible, lighter, or more breathable than the applique itself, the substrate&#39;s characteristics are lost. 
         [0010]    The destruction or interference with the characteristics of the underlying fabric is a significant disadvantage, especially in the context of performance apparel with moisture-wicking and/or breathability characteristics, because the applique undermines the garment&#39;s comfort and performance. In addition to unfavorably changing the physical characteristics of the substrate, these appliques also change the substrate&#39;s visual characteristics, such as the amount of drape. Another problem to overcome particularly in contact sports such as football and hockey is the potential for the garment and appliques to be pulled causing a sheer which can break the bond between garment and applique whether sewn or adhered with an adhesive. 
         [0011]    It would be greatly advantageous to provide a heat sealed applique that can be applied to any garment or textile without obstructing any performance characteristics of the garment or textile, and which is therefore particularly well-suited for lightweight, breathable and/or moisture-wicking textiles commonly used in performance sports apparel. 
       SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
       [0012]    It is, therefore, an object of the present invention to provide a heat sealed applique forming indicia such as text, numbers, logos, graphics, and other indicia that does not change the physical characteristics, such as stiffness, pliability, breathability, stretch and recovery, moisture-wicking properties, weight, or launderability of a performance fabric substrate to which the applique is applied. 
         [0013]    It is another object of the present invention to provide a heat sealed applique that does not change the visual characteristics, such as drape, of the substrate to which the applique is applied. 
         [0014]    It is yet another object of the present invention to provide a heat sealed applique that resembles a traditional, layered applique often used for lettering and numbering on sports jerseys and uniforms. 
         [0015]    And it is another object of the present invention to provide a heat sealed applique that can be manufactured cost effectively. 
         [0016]    According to the present invention, the above-described and other objects are accomplished, by an applique comprising an outer perimeter fabric frame of a particular weave, fiber composition and cut pattern, the fabric frame having a thermally activated adhesive coating on one side. The fabric frame is cut (for example, die-cut, laser-cut, rotary-blade-cut, water-jet cut or otherwise cut) from a blank in the form of an outline of a discrete predetermined indicia (text, number, logo, graphic, etc.). The cut pattern comprises an inner cut and conforming outer cut of slightly expanded dimension that results in a substantially contiguous border framing the desired indicia. A central fabric panel formed of mesh or other perforated or highly porous material is cut with a single cut conforming to those of the fabric frame, but of dimensions intermediate to those of the inner cut and conforming outer cut of the fabric frame. Dimensions are structurally important, especially the following dimensional parameters for the central fabric panel relative to the fabric frame: 1) the inner and outer cut of the fabric frame are identical but scaled; 2) the width of the inner cut of the fabric frame is at all points constrained to be smaller than the width of the central, fabric panel (measured in the same direction); and 3) the difference between the outer cut and inner cut of ore fabric frame (e.g., the width of the border or margin) is constrained to a maximum percentage of the total width of the applique (measured in the same direction). The fabric frame is adhered by a particular thermally activated adhesive coating to an underlying performance fabric substrate, effectively sandwiching the central fabric panel (substantially unadhered) there between and overtop the substrate. The adhesive flows through the mesh of the central panel bonding both layers, and yet the bonded applique does not substantially affect the flexibility, breathability, and weight of the underlying substrate because it is only around the narrow outer perimeter of the applique. Moreover, both the fabric frame and its thermally activated adhesive coating have the ability with the particular adhesive type (described below) to stretch and recover as the garment is pulled, which prevents the adhesive bond from sheering (a common cause of numbers or characters detaching from the garment). The resulting applique forms a robust and launderable bond, but does not substantially change the physical and visual characteristics of the substrate to which the applique is applied. Moreover, since the outer periphery of the fabric frame is slightly larger than the central fabric panel, the frame remains visible. A layered embroidery appearance can be created by contrast coloring the fabric frame versus central fabric panel, and this is further enhanced by printing multiple color graphics along the periphery of the fabric frame. 
         [0017]    The following is a non-limiting example of a suitable process for manufacturing the applique described above. The applique can be manufactured by applying a thermally activated adhesive layer to one side of a first fabric blank. The coated first fabric blank is kiss cut to form a predetermined indicia pattern that is preferably a discrete letter, number, logo or other indicia. In addition to the indicia pattern, a conforming outline cut of slightly larger dimension is made through, me coated perimeter textile and the carrier sheet. The inner excess perimeter textile is removed to form an opening in the shape of the indicia pattern. 
         [0018]    A central fabric panel formed of mesh or other perforated or highly porous center textile, a separate textile, is cut in conformance with the opening in the fabric frame, but using a dimension which will be wider than the inner cut used for the fabric frame. The cut central fabric panel is inlayed within the opening in the perimeter frame, against the thermal adhesive layer, very slightly overlapping the interior cut of the fabric frame. The perimeter frame is bonded to the performance fabric, sandwiching the central panel there between, and the two are bonded thereto by heat pressing, on top and bottom, which partially melts the adhesive coating on the perimeter frame through the mesh central panel and to the substrate. 
         [0019]    To apply the applique, the backing material underneath is removed, and the applique is placed on the garment and heat pressed to activate the adhesive coating. Using this process, the applique only has an adhesive layer around its outer perimeter, leaving the center portion mostly uncoated. 
     
    
     
       BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS  
         [0020]    Other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the following detailed description of me preferred embodiments and certain modifications thereof when taken together with the accompanying drawings in which: 
           [0021]      FIG. 1  is a front view of a heat-activated applique  2  according to an embodiment of the present invention. 
           [0022]      FIG. 2  is a front composite view of the heat-activated applique  2  as in  FIG. 1 . 
           [0023]      FIG. 3  is a side view of the heat-activated applique  2  as in  FIG. 1 . 
           [0024]      FIG. 4  is a flow chart illustrating the construction steps for manufacture of the heat-activated applique  2 . 
       
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT 
       [0025]    The present invention is a light-weight breathable heat-transfer comprised of individual numbers, letters, logos, graphics, and other indicia. The transfer will not change or impede the physical characteristics of performance fabrics to which they are applied, including breathability, moisture-wicking characteristics, stretch and recovery, and launderability. 
         [0026]      FIG. 1  is a front view of a heat-activated applique  2  according to an embodiment of the present invention. The applique  1  portrays a preselected numeric indicia (here a “5” in wide block script).  FIG. 2  is a front composite view of the heat-activated applique  2  of  FIG. 1  and  FIG. 3  is a side view. 
         [0027]    The applique  2  comprises a fabric frame  10  that is cut (die-cut, laser-cut, rotary-blade-cut, water-jet cut or otherwise suitably cut) from a first textile blank in the form of an outline of the predetermined indicia. The indicia may be any discrete text, number, logo, graphic, etc, hi general, the first blank is a knitted/woven stretchable fabric blank comprising a material having a yam strands made of synthetic fibers, and a second elastomeric yam strand. The first yarn strands are knitted/woven together with the elastomeric second strand to create a single blank of woven/knitted fabric. The knitted/woven blank has a specific fiber content and combination of the two strands, of yarn. The first yarn strands are preferably 100% polyester, which is the dominate fiber of the fabric blank. This is important because polyester can be colored utilizing dye sublimation printing processes which are superior in surviving deformations. Deformation of other synthetics less amenable to dye sublimation can result in sheering of color pigment from the printed product. As an alternative to polyester, the first yam strands may comprise nylon inasmuch as it can be digitally printed utilizing acid dyes. 
         [0028]    The elastomeric yam strand of the knitted/woven stretchable fabric blank may be comprised of any elastic textile fiber, however, it is preferred that this material be made of the elastomeric textile fiber known as spandex. Therefore, in the preferred embodiment, the knitted/woven fabric blank comprises a blend of polyester or poly-cotton yam and spandex, wherein the spandex fiber content is constrained to within an acceptable range of from 3 to 15%, and most preferably is 6%. This may be achieved with a knit/weave ratio of synthetic yarn/spandex yarn of from 33:1 to 20:1, and identical deniers. One skilled in the art will understand that the variation between fabric blends may also be made possible by varying the ratio of yams and the structure of the knit or weave pattern. 
         [0029]    The fabric frame  10  is cut (die, laser, rotary-blade, water-jet, etc.) from the finished textile blank using an inner cut and conforming outer cut of slightly expanded dimensions, that results in a substantially contiguous border framing the desired indicia. Preferably, the fabric frame  10  provides a border-width or margin within a range of from 4-8 mm across, and most preferably a 5-6 mm margin. 
         [0030]    The fabric frame  10  is coated with a polyurethane adhesive on one side having a modulus of between 3 to 10 Newtons and a thickness of between 50 um (microns) or 0.002 inches, and 175 um or 0.007 inches. A suitable adhesive is Bemis Sewfree™ 3405 applied in a single layer 50-175 um coating applied uniformly to the perimeter. This ensures sufficient adhesive to secure the frame  10  and mesh central panel  20  together around their perimeter and to bond to the garment as well. 
         [0031]    A central fabric panel  20  is formed from a second blank of suitable mesh or other perforated or highly porous material, most preferably a polyester or nylon mesh fabric blank. The central fabric panel  20  is cut (die, laser, rotary-blade, water-jet, etc.) from the mesh fabric blank with a single cut generally conforming to those of the fabric frame  10 , but of dimensions intermediate to those of the inner cut and conforming outer cut of the fabric frame  10 . Preferably, the central fabric panel  20  is cut to shape to provide a margin of overlap when superposed on fabric frame  10  within a range of from 2-4 mm across, and most preferably a 3 mm overlap margin. 
         [0032]    Dimensions are structurally important to the present invention, and in particular there are dimensional parameters for the central fabric panel  20  relative to the fabric frame  10  (or vice versa). The parameters are as follows: 1) the inner and outer cut of the fabric frame  10  are substantially identical but scaled; 2) the width of the inner cut of the fabric frame  10  is at all points smaller than the width of the central fabric panel  20  (measured at the same point and in the same direction) by a differential of within a range of from 2-4 mm: and 3) the difference between the outer cut and inner cut of the fabric frame  10  (e.g., the width of the border) is constrained to no more than forty-five, percent of the total width of the applique (measured at the same point and in the same direction). 
         [0033]    A lower laminating layer  30  underlies the fabric frame  10  for laminating the applique  2  to a performance fabric substrate or product. Laminating layer  30  comprises a compatible heat activated adhesive layer. Suitable thermoplastic adhesives for the present invention include methane adhesives such as Bemis Sewfree 3206D urethane films produced by Bemis Associates Inc. or similar urethane films produced by Deerfield Urethanes Inc. Laminating layer  30  preferably has a hot melt point of from 175-300 degrees F. and most preferably between 250 T-280 T. 
         [0034]    The central fabric panel  20  is registered to and attached beneath the fabric frame  10  facing the adhesive-coated side, and is adhered thereby to the underlying performance fabric substrate  30  in a sandwich configuration, the overlap margin allowing for a good bond between all three layers  10 ,  20 ,  30 . Upon melting the laminating layer  30  flows through the mesh of the central fabric portion  30  and bonds to the underlying substrate, adhering all three layers  10 ,  20 ,  30 . The foregoing attachment method provides a stretch and recovery characteristic that would not be otherwise possible, for example, by a sewn perimeter which would mechanically limit stretch and recovery at the seam. 
         [0035]    The bonded laminating layer  30  does not substantially affect the flexibility, breathability, and weight of the applique  2  or the underlying substrate because it is only around the narrow outer perimeter of the applique on fabric frame  10 . Moreover, both the fabric frame  10  and its thermally activated polyurethane adhesive coating have the ability to stretch and recover as the garment is pulled, which prevents the adhesive bond from sheering (a common cause of numbers or characters detaching from the garment). The resulting applique  2  provides a robust and launderable aesthetic, but does not substantially change the physical and visual characteristics of 
         [0036]    the substrate to which the applique  2  is applied. Moreover, since the outer periphery of the fabric frame  10  is slightly larger than the central fabric panel, both frame  10  and dye-sublimated borderline (blue) remain visible. 
         [0037]    The color of the fabric frame  10  is preferably chosen with regard to the color of the central fabric panel  20  to contrast or accentuate those color(s), thereby providing an aesthetically pleasing color contrast and embroidered appearance. Preferably, a 3 mm margin at the edge of the central fabric panel  20  and extending onto the fabric frame  10  is printed using dye sublimation in a third color (blue is shown) to add further color contrast and accentuate the embroidered appearance. 
         [0038]      FIG. 3  is a flow chart illustrating an exemplary sequence of construction steps for manufacture of the heat-activated applique  2 . One skilled in the art will understand that there are suitable variations and alternatives to the above-described production process and the following is meant to serve as but one non-limiting example. 
         [0039]    As seen in step  100 , beginning with the knitted/woven fabric blank, the entire blank is coated with the polyurethane adhesive, e.g., Bemis Sewfree™ 3206D adhesive. 
         [0040]    At step  200 , the fabric blank is cut in the form of an outline of the predetermined indicia, defining fabric frame  10 . One method to do this employs a digitally-controlled laser cutting system in which variable-intensify laser beam capable of high speed movement. The cutting and engraving station includes a cutting bed upon which the fabric blank is placed and having an X-Y plotter with articulating laser head thereon or a rastering laser that directs the laser beam by driving mirrors to direct the beam on the bed. The heat from the laser beam cuts selectively in a first pass to create the inner cut, and then in a second pass to create the conforming outer cut of slightly expanded dimensions. 
         [0041]    Upon completion of cutting step  200 , the laser head returns to a point of origin, allowing the user to retrieve the applique  2 . The waste portions are removed to yield a substantially contiguous fabric frame  10  having a margin within a range of from 4-8 mm across, and most preferably a 5-6 mm margin. 
         [0042]    At step  300 , the second blank of mesh is cut (as described above) with a single cut conforming to those of the fabric frame  10  to form central fabric panel  20  with dimensions intermediate to those of the inner cut and conforming outer cut of the fabric frame  10 , leaving a 2-3 cm margin of overlap as described above. 
         [0043]    At step  400 , the bonded laminating layer  30  is laminated to the fabric frame  10 . 
         [0044]    At step  500 , central fabric panel  20  is sandwiched between the fabric frame  10  and underlying performance substrate, centrally, with the requisite 2-3 cm margin of overlap within frame  10 . Lamination is effected. This melts the thermal adhesive layer  30  through the mesh panel  20  to the underlying performance fabric substrate; Flatbed laminating is preferred, and a suitable laminating machine is the Glenro HTH or HTM model flatbed laminator from Glenro Inc., 39 McBride Ave., Paterson, N.J. 07501-1799. These are PLC-controlled machines and the heat is set in accordance with the hot melt point range of heat sensitive polyurethane adhesive, for example, 307 degrees F. Lamination of a pressure sensitive adhesive can alternatively be used with application occurring by the use of pressure rolls or platens. 
         [0045]    At step  600 , the border of the central fabric panel  20  and fabric frame  10  is printed with a 2 cm contrast color using dye sublimation printing. 
         [0046]    The applique  2  may be thermally applied to a product in a conventional manner. Electrically heated platen presses are the most commonly used means of applying the adhesive coated appliques  1  to garments or other articles. Temperature, pressure, and dwell time are the three basic seal conditions that must be controlled in order to ensure a proper bond. These three parameters should be established for each specific garment and embroidery combination. Generally, for the preferred embodiment illustrated above the temperature is held at approximately 250 degrees F (glueline temperature at which laminating layer  30  will melt), and this is sustained for 5-10 seconds once the temperature has been reached. Very thick materials will usually require a longer dwell time, to allow the greater mass to be heated, and to conduct the heat to the glue line. If pressure sensitive adhesives are utilized application can be accomplished by applying uniform pressure to the applique to adhere it to the garment. Adhesive activation can also be achieved through home ironing with a low melt activation film. 
         [0047]    It should now be apparent that the foregoing results in a color-printed and/highlighted applique  2  as in  FIG. 1  that gives an aesthetically-pleasing embossed or otherwise color-contrasted appearance in a form that is easily applied to a garment or other textile. Moreover, all of the printing and cutting may be controlled by common digital files, greatly increasing efficiency. This has been a description of the present invention and, the preferred embodiment of the present invention, as well as various alternate embodiments of the present invention.