Abstract:
Method and apparatus for aiding the hair stylist in ascertaining a subject&#39;s true facial characteristics and their inter-relationship. The method includes the steps of taking precise significant measurements, determining ratios of related measurements, and comparing the ratios with similar standard ratios. Deviations from standard ratios are noted and the appropriate recommendation for correcting the measured assymetry given. The apparatus includes a digital computer for making the calculations and comparisons as well as storage of standard data and recommendations.

Description:
REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS 
     This is a continuation of U.S. patent application, Ser. No. 055,012, filed July 5, 1979, now abandoned. 
    
    
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     From the first recorded history in the field of hair styling until the very present, before this invention, hair stylists&#39; experience, training, asthetic ability and desires as well as the habits of the customer have largely provided the basis for hair styling to be accomplished on the customer. Many hair stylists have innate ability to visualize just what hair style is truly appropriate for a particular customer and they often are correct. Many stylists have difficulty in explaining the reasoning behind their selections and treatment. Customers on the other hand are often influenced by habit, a particular hair style seen on another person or in a photograph without any rational basis for assurance that such a hair style is appropriate for themselves. 
     The hair style selected depends upon a melding of the hair stylists&#39; opinion and the desires of the customer. Often successful, but far too often, less then satisfactory. 
     Stylists often have difficulty envisioning the various styles on a particular customer and thus tend to favor those styles with which they are most familar, or personally like. 
     BRIEF STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION 
     Faced with this truly unsatisfactory basis for hair style selection, we have analyzed much of the literature guiding hair stylists, and found little in the way of guidance in obtaining a balanced relationship between the features of the customer or subject which give an esthetically pleasing appearance. 
     We have studied the masters of art, particularly Michelangelo and De Vinci, and have learned that they recognized the need for such balance or as we term it, symmetry, and each of these masters studied the human features and physiological makeup to a far greater degree than many people realize. The end results of both of these masters has been a truly esthetically beautiful works of art demonstrating true symmetry of features. 
     We have also studied the work of anthropologists to determine if their studies give aid in the field of hair styling. We have found that the anthropologists have developed a precise measuring system for skeletal structures of the human body which is termed anthropometry. These standards of measurements include precisely defined points from which the various measurements are taken. We use these same measurement points to ensure uniformity between subjects and to establish some normal or standards against which the stylist may compare his particular customer or subject. 
     Unfortunately hair stylists can lay little claim to the knowledge and artistic ability of Michelangelo and Leonardo de Vinci and likewise the anthropologists measurements are directed more toward evolutionary, racial or developmental studies of the human skeleton then its asthetics or beauty. We have combined the use of anthropometry as used by anthropologists and have measured dozens of females to discover variations in the skeletal structure which have significance in the appearance of the subject and consequently in the selection of appropriate hair style. By comparison of these averages and standards with the works of the masters, Michelangelo and da Vinci, we find that these masters invariably selected in their beauteous works optimum symmetrical faces. For example, in the Pieta, the face of the Madonna is truly an ideal oval and exhibits true symmetry. Unfortunately, few if any of the subjects which we measured, exhibit these ideals. Moreover, unrecognized by many hair stylists, one or more of the features of most subjects exhibit actual asymmetries, such as a nose with a slight bending to one side or another, eyes or ears of different heights. These asymmetries, coupled with slight disproportionate features in comparison with the body size, present challenges for the hair stylist, first to recognize and then to accommodate in his selection of hair style and in actual styling process. 
     From our analysis, we find that at least 18 and as many 23 different measurements or criteria are significant in the determination of a subject&#39;s head and facial characteristics. Additionally, the ratios of many of the measurements are most important than their absolute value. For example, a nose on a female which measures 21/2&#34; may appear long if she is only five feet tall. But on a female who is five feet nine inches, the same length nose is ideally proportioned. 
     We have established not only a number of measurements to be taken, a range of optimum values for each, and a set of ratios. We have discovered the innerplay between the measurements and the ratios as well as the observations of asymmetries to provide as many as 94,000 different combinations affecting the appearance of the head, face, and body as a whole. Such a number of combinations defies practical human analysis and useage without assistance. 
     We have reduced the analysis above described to a computer program and through the use of a computer are enabled to accomplish the necessary computational activity to establish ratios, to compare the subject&#39;s measurements and ratios to standards which we have established, and to provide a true analysis of the individuals, controlling and significant criteria. We have further developed a series of charts to assist the stylist in taking the physical measurements, and in using the computer produce criteria to develop an artistic presentation of one or more recommended hair styles for an individual. 
     The hair stylist may easily make the precise measurements employing measuring aids of this invention. Next given the analysis of the individual&#39;s features, the stylist is better able to apply his artistic ability in generating a visual presentation of recommended styles, and more importantly, the stlyist may use his artistic ability in carrying out his own styling concepts and use of his skills within the guide posts supplied. The end result, when properly applying is to produce truly the appropriate and most favorable appearance of the subject. 
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING 
     The foregoing brief description of the invention may be more clearly understood from the following detailed description and by reference to the drawing in which: 
     FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a hair stylist taking data for use in accordance with this invention; 
     FIG. 2 is a perspective view of an appropriate computer for carrying out the computational aspects of this invention; 
     FIG. 3 is a flow chart of the generalized method of this invention; 
     FIG. 4 is a graphical presentation of certain of the measurements to be taken of the subject; 
     FIG. 5 is a graphical presentation of certain additional measurements to be taken of the subject; 
     FIG. 6 is a front elevational view of a standard subject with certain head locations identified for use in the visual presentation of possible hair styles; 
     FIG. 7 is a profile view of a subject model similar to FIG. 6; and 
     FIG. 8 is a rear elevational view similar to FIGS. 6 and 7. 
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION 
     Now referring to FIGS. 1 through 3, the basic technique for establishing input data of a particular subject is illustrated therein. In FIG. 1, a hair stylist is in the process of taking an anthrometric measurement of the head width of a subject employing a pair of Calipers 10. The measurement being taken is one of sixteen individual measurements taken of the subject at the precise positions standardized by anthropologists and illustrated by the numbers appearing in FIGS. 4 and 5. The first and basic measurement is the height of the subject which is taken employing a standard clinical ruler. The following measurements are taken employing the calipers 10 at the positions noted in FIGS. 4 and 5. 
     
         ______________________________________No.      Measurement______________________________________1        Height employing a standard clinical measuring    ruler2        Head width3        Shoulder width4        Neck length5        Head length6        Ear protrusion7        Face length8        Face width9        Forehead10       Jaw width11       Horizontal12       Diagonal14       Eye span in15       Eye span out17       Nose length19       Ear length______________________________________ 
    
     The stylist makes a number of observations of a more qualitative nature but easily accomplished when the stylist directs his attention to each feature individually for a more reliable observation. 
     These observations are: 
     
         ______________________________________13   Forehead shape             1/Normal 2/Angle 3/Full16   Eye Symmetry 1/Symmetrical 2/Asymmetrical18   Nose bend    1/LR 2/LL 3/AR 4/AL20   Ear symmetry 1/Symmetrical 2/Asymmetrical21   Hairline     1/Strong 2/Weak22   Hair texture 1/FC 2/FS 3/FW 4/MC 5/MS 6/MW             7/CC 8/CS 9/CW23   Glasses worn 1/Worn 2/Not worn______________________________________ 
    
     Each of the physical measurements taken with the caliper 10, and height stick 11 are compared with a standardized measuring stick 12 having uniform length graduations. These length graduations may be standard centimeters, or as we have determined, a standard interval in the order of 1/8 inch inch and 0.32 centimeters, to be particularly useful. The measurements are entered in a tabular record 13 as are the physical observations 13, 16, 18, and 20-23 above, as well as the height measurement 1. 
     The tabulated data along with subject identification data is next entered into the computer of FIG. 2 for processing in accordance with this invention to provide an analysis of the more than 94,000 possible combinations of input data, to provide a subject analysis for use by the stylist. 
     The computer, generally designated 15 in FIG. 2, employs typically a keyboard 16 and a numeric key pad 20 shown for convenience with an integrated video display 21. The computer and memory 22 and a printer 23 or other type of output device such as a modem for connection into a communications channel make up the computer system. It must be recognized that given the relationship set forth below the stylist might manually calculate the guidance criteria however the speed of a modern digital computer virtually mandates its use in rapidly producing the required guidance criteria. 
     The computer 15 under the control of its program described below makes the required calculation in comparison in accordance with the program and produces a printout of guidance for the stylist. The printout of information constitutes an analysis of this subject as compared with measured population averages as a starting point for the stylist. A typical readout for an actual subject is as follows: 
     
         ______________________________________CRITERIA______________________________________1.      height          short2.      shoulder ratio  average3.      neck ratio      average4.      ear protrusion  average5.      forehead/jaw width                   average6.      front view      inverted triangular face7.      horizontal ratio                   long8.      diagonal ratio  long9.      shape of forehead                   angular10.     eye span ratio  wide11.     eyes            asymmetrical12.     nose length     normal13.     nose bend       light left14.     ear ratio       short15.     ear symmetry    asymmetrical16.     hair line       strong17.     hair texture    medium and straight18.     glasses         worn______________________________________ 
    
     Thus, the stylist is furnished with basic information on the subject which prior to this invention is only subjectively considered and usually with many of the criteria overlooked. 
     The method of this invention is illustrated in FIG. 3 which is a generalized flow diagram for the method Steps A, B, C and F, G, and H are preferably performed by a general purpose computer properly programmed. The calculations may be made manually, however the speed and versatility warrants the use of a computer. 
     The computer further furnishes to the stylist specific recommendations in order to: 
     (a) highlight attractive features of the subject; 
     (b) define the hair cut style requirements from front, rear, and profile views; 
     (c) determine where the volume of hair must be the thickest; and 
     (d) provide options. 
     An example of recommendations furnished for an actual subject are as follows: 
     
         ______________________________________     Objective              Reference to FIGS.______________________________________1   Back View   Create     Length to 1 or 2-3           Height     V-cut or 1 U-shape, FIG.                      82   Front View  Narrow fore-                      Some hair volume at D;    (Inverted tri-           head/Widen No volume at C2 to A2;    angular face)           jawline    Maximum volume E2 to F2                      Per FIG. 6                      Part, Center or Near                      Center3   Profile View           Shorten hori-                      Lines tend to counter-           zontal lines to                      balance each other.           build up face.                      Some volume at E and E.                      Per FIG. 74   Eye Span    Shorten Span                      Use center or near center                      part - less volume at                      at eye level, facial                      symmetry recommendation                      has priority.5   Eye Symmetry           Maintain   Eyes are not of even                      height - left is lower,                      direct hair and volume                      towards lower eye, for-                      ward onto forehead.6   Nose Length Maintain   Well proportioned7   Nose Bent   Soften bend                      Move flow of style to           to left.   right.8   Ears length Maintain   Ears are short but do not                      handicap style - may be                      exposed.9   Ear Symmetry           Be Alert   Be aware ear lobes are                      not at same height, left                      ear is lower - while                      cutting make allowance to                      keep cut symmetrical.10  Hair line   Strong     This makes possible to                      have more volume around                      face, can enjoy short                      necklines.11  Hair Texture           Ideal for long                      Needs permanent for    and Type    Hair       stylibility and curl                      retention; hair color may                      be used to make it look                      less bulky.12  Glasses     Inverted   If worn, wear triangular           Triangle   frames, wider bottom and                      narrow top.______________________________________ 
    
     Given the above recommendations, the hair stylist may use the charts of FIGS. 6, 7 and 8 to produce graphically the various volumes of hair at different locations for his own evaluation and review prior to styling. Thus, the stylist now has before him valuable aid to his own ability based upon his own precise measurements and observations with the aid of computational capabilities of a computer. Of additional importance is that the customer for the first time has a true picture of her own facial characteristics and an understanding of hair styling compatable with her particular face. 
     FUNDAMENTALS OF THE INVENTION 
     Front View Relationships 
     As a part of our study of many subjects we developed norms against which the actual measurements of the subject are taken and the various ratios may be compared. As an example, the shape of the face of the subject may be any of twelve different shapes described below. This is in contrast with the commonly accepted notion that there only four shapes, round, oval, rectangular, and triangle. 
     The actual measurements taken as shown in FIG. 1 provide the raw data. We have found that the ratios of the head length to width and forehead to jaw determine the twelve shapes where LW R  equals the head length to width ratio and FJ R  equals the forehead to jaw ratio. The face shapes and these ratios are typified by the first relationship. 
     
         ______________________________________RELATIONSHIP       FACE        OBJECTIVE______________________________________(1) LW.sub.R is greater       SHAPE      shorten face, build upthan 1.46 and FJ.sub.R       inverted   low half of face, narrowis greater than 1.55       triangular forehead.                  RECOMMENDATION                  hair is no shorter than                  E.sub.2 on FIG. 6 with maximum                  volume between A.sub.2 and;                  suggested length from                  E.sub.2 to 2 or 3 in back using                  concave neck. Part at                  center or near. Fill in                  R. Keep above A.sub.2 to narrow                  and no volume at D. One                  length cut.______________________________________ 
    
     Each of the remaining combinations appears in the accompanying computer program. 
     Back View Relationships 
     The back view relations include the height of the subject, the shoulder ratio S R  which is the ratio of the shoulder width to the head width: 
     The neck ratio N R  which is the ratio of the neck length 4--4 to the head length 7--7 and to the ear protrusion E P . 
     Again, twenty seven different combinations of relationships of these factors occur. They are typified by the first relationship: 
     
         ______________________________________       OBJECTIVE                RECOMMENDATION______________________________________(1) - The subject&#39;s height         Build up vol.                    Suggested lengthH is greater than 67         for width, to 2 or 3 oninches; S.sub.R is less than         shorten    FIG. 8. Use str.2.4; and N.sub.R is greater         the neck.  cut.than 0.82.______________________________________ 
    
     The remaining twenty six combinations are set forth in the accompanying computer program. 
     Additional Data Entry 
     The additional measurements and observations which were made on the subject provide additional inputs to the system. The first such additional input is the eye span ratio, S R  which is the ratio of the measurement of the distance between the inner edges of the eyes to the span to the outer edges of the eyes. A ratio of 0.31 to 0.35 is normal. Eye span ratios of 0.31 or less denote narrow eye span, and those greater than 0.35 denote wide spans. 
     The operator also determines any asymmetrical location of the eye. One eye is commonly slightly above the other and hardly noticeable but having a significant effect upon the appearance of the subject when styled unless recognized and compensated for in styling. 
     The nose length ratio measured from the tip of the nose to the start of the bridge as compared with the face length is significant. Nose ratio N R  is the ratio of the nose length to the face length. A normal nose length ranges between 0.260 to 0.3 of the face length and a shorter than 0.260 and provides a short nose and that longer than 0.30 is characterized as a long nose. 
     The stylist upon specific attention directed to the subject can observe whether the subject&#39;s nose bends either lightly or acutely to either direction providing four other possible inputs of data: light left (LL); light right (LR); acute left (AL); and acute right (AR). 
     Ear protrustion E p  between 0.320 to 0.380 is normal with the extremes on either side being indicative of either short or wide protrusion. A particular significant factor with respect to ears is whether they are asymmetrical with respect to vertical placement on the subject&#39;s head. Since the lower tip of the ear is usually used as a reference point for determining a hair line and if asymmetry exists the hair line can be miscut. 
     The hair line of the subject being either strong or weak, likewise is a significant input factor. 
     The hair texture and type is significant there being at least nine variations from fine/curly to fine/straight fine/wavy, medium/curly, medium/straight, medium/wavy and course/curly, course/straight and course/wavy. Each of these are easily qualitively ascertained by the stylist. 
     Another factor is whether the subject wears glasses or not and it provides a basis for the determining hair style and if glasses are worn the style of frames which complement the appearance of the subject. 
     When each of the inputs with respect to the front profile and additional data inputs are introduced into a computer programmed in accordance with this invention the output provides guidance for the stylist previously unavailable. As an example, the additional data input provided above, gives guidance as follows: 
     
         ______________________________________OBJECTIVE      RECOMMENDATION______________________________________Eye Span(1) - Shorten span.          Use center part or very near -          less volume at eye level. Facial          symmetry recommendation has          priority.(2) - Widen span.          Comb hair away from face on sides -          more volume at eye level. Facial          symmetry recommendation has          priority.(3) - Maintain.          Eye span is in good proportion -          therefore does not affect hair          style.Eye Symmetry(1) - Maintain.          Eyes are symmetrical. Therefore          does not affect hair style.(2) - Make eyes look even.          Eyes are not even and therefore          recommend to direct hair volume          towards lower eye - forward          onto forehead.Nose Length(1) - Maintain.          Nose is well proportioned, and          does not affect hair style.(2) - Maintain.          Your nose is short in proportion          to the face, but is not a handi-          cap - profile may appear narrower          so that recommendation for profile          symmetry should be followed.(1) - Soften bend.          Nose is slightly bent to the          left - move flow of style to right.______________________________________ 
    
     Profile Relationships 
     The measurements which principally affect the profile view are the horizontal ratio, H R  which is the ratio in FIG. 5 of length 11--11 to 7--7; the diagonal ratio, D R  of the ratio in FIG. 5 of length 12--12 to 7--7; and the forehead shape, whether normal, angle or full as illustrated in FIG. 5. 
     Twenty seven different profile relationships are possible. They are similar in general respects to the representative relationships set forth for the front view. We find an optimum or normal values as follows for profile measurements. 
     1.032&lt;H R  &lt;1.168 
     1.198&lt;D R  &lt;1.435 and 
     Forehead normal as shown in FIG. 4. 
     Outside these standards asymmetry exists and the stylist needs guidance. The twenty seven possible combinations of these three variables give rise to twenty seven different recommendations, examples of which are: 
     
         ______________________________________Combinations   Objective  Recommendation______________________________________(1) H.sub.R is greater than          Maintain   Even distribution at1.032 but less than          proper     nose from E to B1.168, D.sub.R is greater          balance.   on FIG. 7.than 1.198 but lessthan 1.435; andforehead is normal.______________________________________ 
    
     The full set of relationships and resultant recommendations for the profile are set forth in the accompanying computer program in the Basic language. The program is incorporated by reference as a part of this specification. 
     The above described embodiments of this invention are merely descriptive of its principles and are not to be considered limiting. The scope of this invention instead shall be determined from the scope of the following claims, including their equivalents. 
     In accordance with 954 O.G.550, 37 CFR Part 1. Rule of Practice 1.96, Approved June 7, 1977, accompanying herewith and incorporated by reference is the listing of the computer program referenced in the foregoing specifications, the listing consisting of 28 printed pages. ##SPC1## ##SPC2## ##SPC3## ##SPC4##