Abstract:
Processes for evaluating androgenic properties of various compounds and/or compositions are described, wherein the processes comprise: (a) providing a culture of at least one male fibroblast, the at least one male fibroblast having a metabolic activity; (b) contacting the culture with a potential active component; and (c) determining the metabolic activity of the fibroblast against a standard.

Description:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION  
         [0001]    This invention relates generally to men&#39;s cosmetics and, more particularly, to a process by which the effectiveness of potential active components can be evaluated and to the use of male fibroblasts in this process.  
         PRIOR ART  
         [0002]    The human skin is the scene for a number of metabolic reactions involving androgens. Typical examples include the 5-α-reduction of testosterone (T) to the active metabolite dihydrotestosterone (DHT), the 3-α-reduction of DHT, the conversion of weak androgens, such as dehydroepiandrosterone and Δ4-androsteronedione for example, to biologically more active steroids, or the intracellular binding of androgens to specific receptor proteins and the nuclear translocation of androgen receptors. Hair follicles, sebaceous glands and apocrine glands contain particularly high concentrations of androgens. These can stimulate hair growth on certain areas of the skin, for example in the axillae. However, they can also promote baldness in genetically predisposed males. Androgens can also influence the size and the secretion of glands and can thus adversely affect the appearance of the skin, for example by causing acne or seborrhoea. The localization of androgen receptors in the genital fibroblasts of human skin is described, for example, by Liang et al. in J. Invest. Dermatol. 100, 663-666 (1993). The effect of androgens on the growth of genital fibroblasts is normally determined by flow cytometry. It is known from studies conducted by Loire et al. [Biol. of the cell 56, 8989-1992 (1986)] and Sultan et al. [Brit. J. Dermatol. 107, 40-46 (1982)] that dihydrotestosterone does not affect the DNA or protein distribution in the target cell. This suggests that androgens do not induce overall protein synthesis or DNA production. Investigation of the influence of testosterone on the differentiation of human skin cells has shown that testosterone does not influence the volume of the epidermis tissue or the cell size or the number of keratin filaments, but does counteract the reduction of granular cells, keratohyalin granules and keratinosomes. This gives an indication of its role in cell differentiation. Kligman et al. report that the topical application of testosterone propionate in the axillae of relatively old males increases the strength of the epidermis [Adv. Biol. Skin, 6, 177-198 (1965)].  
           [0003]    Basically, it is known that androgen production in men decreases with age. It is also known that the cell response to hormones changes with time. Thus, it has been shown that the number of binding sites to androgen receptors in the fibroblasts decreases with age. More detailed studies are based on the assumption that these changes are not directly related to the testosterone level, but are the result of a genetic process. This raises the question of why existing knowledge of male hormones should not be used to develop a model for testing the effectiveness of new potential active components for the development of men&#39;s cosmetics.  
           [0004]    Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was to provide a process for finding new active components with androgen-like activity for the production of cosmetic preparations specifically for use in men&#39;s cosmetics.  
         DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION  
         [0005]    The present invention relates to a process for finding new active components with androgen-like properties for the production of cosmetic preparations for men, in which the potential active components are contacted with cultures of male fibroblasts and the metabolism—more especially the quantity of dermal macromolecules formed by the fibroblasts —is determined against a standard in the course of the interaction.  
           [0006]    It has surprisingly been found that cultures of male fibroblasts represent ideal systems for investigating the effectiveness of potential new active components with androgenic or androgen-like activity for the development of male cosmetics. The process makes use of the observation that active components, by interacting with the fibroblasts, stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules, such as for example hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, heparan sulfate, collagen or elastin, whereas non-active compounds produce little or no change in the synthesis rate relative to the blank value. Male sex hormones have been successful as standards. Accordingly, by measuring and following the formation of the dermal macromolecules and comparing it with the standard, it is possible to assess the effectiveness of the test products.  
           [0007]    Using this process, it has already been possible to show that individual fractions of Grifola frondosa extracts influence the growth and metabolism of male fibroblasts (see Examples). Grifola frondosa (also known as maitake) are edible higher fungi of the genus Basidiomycetes. These are so-called bracket fungi which are also known as basidiomycetes.  
           [0008]    Accordingly, the present invention also relates to the use of extracts or fractions of extracts of the fungus Grifola frondosa for stimulating male fibroblasts, more particularly for stimulating and improving cell renewal, and to their use for the production of skin care preparations for men.  
           [0009]    The stimulation of male fibroblasts has also been demonstrated for extracts of Pisum sativum and for a preparation containing mannitol, cyclodextrin, yeast extract and disodium succinate.  
           [0010]    Carrying Out the Process  
           [0011]    Both embryogenic and male adult fibroblasts may be used and cultivated in the process. Fibroblasts in the present context are understood to include any cells and cell types which have fibroblast-like properties, especially receptors at their surface which are comparable or identical with those of the fibroblasts. The fibroblasts may also be used together with other cells or cell lines, but especially skin cells such as, for example, melanocytes, Langerhans cells, endothelial cells, keratinocytes, neurones and the like. The male sex hormones which may serve as standards and against which the activity of the potential active component may be tested and evaluated include, for example, testosterone, dihydrotestosterone, dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and precursors and derivatives thereof. Both the active components and the standards may be used in quantities of 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight, based on the cultures, and are typically used in a quantity of 0.0002% by weight. The choice of the potential active components is not critical insofar as the system functions reliably as long as the potential active components stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules. In practice, the test substances will preferably be selected from the group of sterols, peptides, proteins, lipids, sugars and polysaccharides because they can be expected to provide the greatest stimulation activity. The parameter monitored is the formation of dermal macromolecules from the group of glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, glycoproteins and proteins.  
           [0012]    The process may be carried out, for example, as follows: cell suspensions of human fibroblasts (embryonal cells of adult male origin) are mixed with 1 to 2 mg/ml of a collagen suspension. The fibroblasts present in the collagen gel are then cultivated together with a nutrient medium (2% by weight foetal calf serum, FCS) in Petri dishes (5 ml/dish) to which 0.0002% by weight of the potential active component or testosterone or dihydrotestosterone is added as standard. After incubation for 7 days at 27° C./5% by volume carbon dioxide in a steam-saturated atmosphere, biopsies are taken and histological sections prepared. The quantity of macromolecules formed can be determined by two different methods:  
           [0013]    1. a general determination by coloring the glucosaminoglucans (GAGs) with PAS Alcian Blue (standard coloration) and  
           [0014]    2. a specific immunohistochemical characterization of certain elements of the matrix by treatment with antibodies, more especially anti-chondroitin sulfate, anti-keratan sulfate, anti-heparan sulfate, anti-dermatan sulfate, anti-elastin and anti-collagen (type III).  
           [0015]    The fibroblasts are examined with a photon microscope in regard to the coloration (PAS Alcian) and with a confocal laser microscope in regard to the immunohistology. In order to determine the quantity of dermal macromolecules formed, micrographs are taken and the zones around the fibroblasts (“perifibroblastic zones”) are analyzed. Counting is done by image analysis, i.e. by determining the perifibroblastic zones and the gray level. Both parameters are directly proportional to the synthesis of dermal macromolecules. The results are evaluated in relation to the corresponding results without addition of the active components.  
           [0016]    Commercial Applications  
           [0017]    The synthesis of the dermal macromolecules is, quite generally, a quantitative indication of how age and environmental influences impair the processes in human skin. Accordingly, the present invention relates not only to the use of male fibroblasts on their own or together with other skin cells in the above-described process for finding new active components with androgen-like properties for the production of cosmetic preparations for men, but also to their use—again on their own or together with other cells or cell lines, but especially skin cells— 
           [0018]    for investigating pathological effects on the stimulation of cell synthesis;  
           [0019]    for investigating the effects of ageing on the stimulation of cell synthesis;  
           [0020]    for investigating the effects of stress on the stimulation of cell synthesis and  
           [0021]    for investigating the action mechanism of the stimulation of the synthesis of dermal macromolecules by male sex hormones. 
       
    
    
     EXAMPLES  
       [0022]    As described under the heading “Carrying Out the Process”, various fibroblast cultures were cultivated with and without added male sex hormones and the synthesis of the dermal macromolecules was investigated. The results are set out in Table 1. The numbers represent the increase in %-rel., based on the blank value, i.e. the absence of the male sex hormones, and expressed as the average of the two measuring conditions.  
                                             TABLE 1                           Synthesis of dermal macromolecules                1   2   3   4   5   6               Hormone type   T (soluble)   DHT   T   DHT   T   DHT       Fibroblasts   E   MA   MA   MA   MA   MA       Increase in the       synthesis of       macromolecules       Chondroitin   +23            +132    +537    +79       sulfate       Keratan sulfate                    +83       Heparan sulfate       +486       Collagen   +17       +113   +1742    +654   +409       Elastin   +11               +2753   +552                                                  
 
       Example 2  
       [0023]    Preparation of the Grifola Frondosa (Maitake) Extract with Aqueous Ethanol  
         [0024]    120 g dried Granola fronds fungi were introduced into a glass reactor containing 1.2 liters 96% by weight aqueous ethanol. The infusion was extracted with stirring for 1 hour at boiling temperature. The mixture was then cooled to 20° C. and the supernatant colloidal liquid was separated from the residue by filtration through a depth filter with a mean porosity of 450 nm (from Seitz, Bordeaux/France). The alcohol was then removed under reduced pressure at 45° C. and the residue was dried for 12 hours at 50° C. The yield of dry product was 10.86% by weight, based on the dry weight of fungi used.  
         [0025]    Fractionation of the Extract  
         [0026]    6.26 g of the extract were eluted with methanol in various concentrations in a chromatography column. Preferred adsorption columns are Amberite or reversed phase C18 silica columns. Molecules with the least affinity for the column were collected in the first washing water step. Water, 20% by vol. methanol, 40% by vol. methanol, 60% by vol. methanol, 80% by vol. methanol and pure methanol were used as stepwise gradients. The eluent was used at a flow rate of 10 ml/min.  
         [0027]    The alcohol of the individual fractions obtained was evaporated off and the fractions were then separately freeze-dried.  
         [0028]    The fractions of Table 2 were used for the following test.  
                                 TABLE 2                           Ingredients of the fungus Grifola frondosa       obtained by fractionation                        Yield of dried                   fraction (quantity of                   fraction/quantity       Eluent   Fraction   Eluted components   of crude extract)               Methanol 60%   A   Phenols, amino acids   1.69%       Methanol 80%   B   Phenols, amino acids   2.68%                  
 
       Use of the Fractions of the Grifola Frondosa Extract in the Test on in Vitro Cultures of Male Fibroblasts  
       [0029]    The in vitro growth test on male fibroblast cultures was carried out to demonstrate possible stimulation of the fibroblasts and the regenerating and growth-promoting properties of Grifola frondosa extracts.  
         [0030]    A toxicity test enables the optimal concentration for more specific tests on cell cultures to be determined. The growth test allows the capacity of an active component to improve cell renewal to be determined.  
         [0031]    Test Procedure:  
         [0032]    Male human fibroblasts were cultivated in a standard cell culture medium (DMEM) containing 10% by weight foetal calf serum (FCS). After incubation for one day at 37° C./5% carbon dioxide, the growth medium was replaced by a standard medium without FCS or by a standard medium containing 1% delipidated FCS to which a defined quantity of the fractions to be investigated dissolved in 1% by vol. ethanol had been added.  
         [0033]    After incubation for 3 days, the quantity of cell proteins and ATP in the cell culture was determined.  
         [0034]    Results:  
                                                   TABLE 3a                           Determination of the quantity of cell proteins and ATP       in in vitro cell cultures of fibroblasts after incubation with       fractions of the Grifola frondosa extract (without FCS)                Without FCS*                    Fraction   Concentration   Proteins   ATP                       A   0.003   113   116               0.001   127   125           B   0.003   124   119               0.001   135   114                                  
 
         [0035]    [0035]                                                   TABLE 3b                           Determination of the quantity of cell proteins and ATP       in in vitro cell cultures of fibroblasts after incubation with       fractions of the Grifola frondosa extract (with 1%       delipidated FCS)                1% Delipidated FCS**                    Fraction   Concentration   Proteins   ATP                       A   0.003   110   118               0.001   109   127           B   0.003   118   116               0.001   127   114                                    
         [0036]    The results show that the two selected fractions of the Grifola frondosa extract show clear activity in stimulating the cell growth of human male fibroblasts.  
         [0037]    Despite addition of the already nutrient-richer cell culture medium used, the extract fractions show an improvement in ATP and protein rate, even with 1% delipidated FCS, against the control.