Abstract:
The invention is directed to cosmetic powder compositions containing containing esters, a gellant, and polyvinylidene copolymer. These cosmetic compositions are useful for blushes, eyeshadow, and so on.

Description:
TECHNICAL FIELD 
     The invention is directed to anhydrous cosmetic compositions containing esters, a gellant, and polyvinylidene copolymer (PVC). These compositions are useful as powders, blushes, eyeshadows, etc. 
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     Conventional make-up cosmetics are available in various formulations such as water-based formulations, oil-based formulations, emulsions, and powder formulations. Often, powder formulations are used for cosmetic compositions such as eyeshadow and blush, which are used to apply color to the skin. Many powder formulations are anhydrous systems which contain waxes and oils. 
     These conventional formulations may be oily and sticky due to the presence of waxes and oils, thus imparting a greasy feel to the skin of the make up wearer. Powder cosmetic formulations containing fat or wax are generally formed by pressing the formulation, or in the alternative, if anhydrous, by heating the ingredients, handling them while they are in the molten state to shape them, then cooling the final product. 
     Although the presence of waxes in an anhydrous formulation aids in &#34;pourability&#34; in the molding and manufacturing process of the product, these waxes also impart an undesireable greasiness to the final composition. In addition, these steps are time-consuming and costly. There is thus a need for easily molded powder feel cosmetic compositions which do not impart a greasy texture to the final composition. 
     SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
     The invention is directed to cosmetic compositions comprising 1-50% esters, 3-10% gellant, and 1-15% polyvinylidene copolymer. 
     The composition contains no wax and is very easily molded during the manufacturing process. 
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION 
     The suitable esters in the composition of the invention are derived from carboxylic acids and have the structure RCO--OR&#39; where RCO represents the carboxylic acid radical and where OR is an alcohol residue including but not limited to one or more of octylstearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecanol, or polyglycerol 3 diisostearate, or any of the esters set forth on pages 23-25 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, (1988) which is hereby incorporated by reference. The ester component may comprise only one of the above esters or any mixture thereof. It is preferred to utilize a mixture of esters, most particularly mixtures of octylstearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octododecanol, and Polyglycerol 3-diisostearate. Most preferred is a cosmetic composition wherein the ester component is 20-40% octylstearate, 5-12% isostearyl neopentanoate, 5-12% octyldodecanol, and optionally, 0.1-5% polyglycerol 3 diisostearate. 
     The composition of the invention essentially contains 3-10% of a gellant. A gellant is defined as a material which increases the viscosity of nonaqueous products. Suitable gellants, or viscosity increasing agents include ethylene acrylates copolymer (EAC), silica, polyethylene, calcium silicate, ethylcellulose, methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, octadecene/maleic anhydride copolymer, polyisobutene, and so on. EAC is preferred. EAC is widely available from a number of commercial sources. The gellant reacts with the ester component to provide a cake which is easily molded, generally eliminating the necessity for waxes. 
     Finally, the composition essentially contains 1-15% polyvinylidene copolymer. This constituent may be either spherical or nonspherical in shape. The polyvinylidene copolymer may be treated with surface modifiers as is well known in the art. For example polyvinylidene copolymer may be used alone, or it is often combined with talc. Polyvinylidene copolymer may be treated with substances such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, lecithin, silicone, teflon, amino acids, sunscreens, polyethylenes, and so on. In the composition of the invention it is preferred that the polyvinylidene copolymer be combined with talc and treated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (ITT). These polyvinylidene copolymer products are widely available from a number of commercial sources. 
     The above three constituents are essential to the composition of the invention. The composition may additionally contain other optional constituents such as emollients, absorbants, fillers, sunscreens, colorants, preservatives, and so on. 
     It is desireable to add 5-30% of an absorbant. An absorbant is a material which absorbs oil, such as mica, kaolin, sericite, etc. The preferred embodiment contains 5-30% mica. 
     Suitable emollients include petrolatum, lanolin alcohol, simethicone, lanolins, and those which are not water soluble, listed under the Category &#34;Skin Conditioning Agents--Emollients&#34; on pages 79-80 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, (1988) which is hereby incorporated by reference. If emollients are added, generally 0.4-16% of the above emollients or mixtures thereof are preferred, and most desireably 4-6% petrolatum, 0.4-0.6% lanolin alcohol, and 0.1-1% simethicone. (The propylene glycol is a carrier for the preservative). 
     It may also be desireable to add 0.1-30% of one or more powder-type fillers such as silica beads, nylon, talc, color, bismuth oxychloride and so on. The silica may be spherical or nonspherical, untreated, or treated with substances well known in the art and as mentioned above. Nylon may be spherical or nearly spherical in shape. All of the above-mentioned ingredients are widely available from commercial sources. The preferred composition of the invention contains 0.1-15% nylon, 3-10% silica beads, 2-8% talc, and 1-10% titanium dioxide. 
     It may also be desireable to incorporate into the composition one or more preservatives and colorants. A wide variety of preservatives may be used including but not limited to the parabens, imidiazdidinyl urea, and those set forth under the category &#34;Preservatives&#34; on page 78 of the CTFA Cosmetic Inqredient Handbook, First Edition, (1988) which is hereby incorporated by reference. The preservative is most preferably 0.1-0.3% a mixture of diazolidinyl urea and 0.1-0.3% methyl and propyl paraben. 
     A wide variety of colorants may be used depending on the color desired for the final composition and its proposed use. Colors include but are not limited to D&amp;C red 6 barium lake, ultramarine blue, black iron oxide, FD&amp;C yellow 5 aluminum lake, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and in addition the colors set forth on page 63 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, (1988) which is hereby incorporated by reference. Obviously, if the composition of the invention is utilized to make an eyeshadow instead of a blush the color constituents will be different. Generally a preferred range of color is 1-20%. 
     It may also be very desireable to incorporate sunscreens into the composition of the invention. The sunscreens listed in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, First Edition, (1988) which is hereby incorporated by reference, are suitable. Generally 0.1-5% sunscreen is suitable, and the preferred embodiment of the invention contains 0.1-3% octylmethoxycinnamate. 
     The preferred composition of the invention is as set forth below: 
     
         ______________________________________              W/W %______________________________________octylstearate          20-40polyvinylidene copolymer                  1-10isostearyl neopentanoate                  5-12octyldodecanol         5-12petrolatum             4-6lanolin alcohol      0.4-1EAC                   1.6-12nylon                 0.1-15mica                   5-30colors                 1-20talc                   2-8silica                 1-10octylmethoxycinnamate                0.1-5polyglycerol 3-diisostearate                0.1-5simethicone          0.1-1imidazolidinyl urea  0.1-3titanium dioxide      1.0-10isopropyl triisostearyl titanate                0.5-2methyl paraben         0.1-.25propyl paraben         0.1-.25propylene glycol     0.1-1______________________________________ 
    
     The invention will be further described in connection with the following Examples which are set forth for the purposes of illustration only. 
     EXAMPLE 1 
     A coral blush was prepared as follows: 
     
         ______________________________________              W/W %______________________________________octylstearate        30.00octylmethoxycinnamate                2.30isostearyl neopentanoate                9.30octyldodecanol       6.20petrolatum           5.40lanolin alcohol      0.60polyglycerol-3-diisostearate                0.50simethicone          0.30imidazolidinyl urea  .15EAC                  10.00nylon                10.00mica                 6.01polyvinylidene copolymer                2.50titanium dioxide     5.00D&amp;C Red 6 barium lake                1.54ultramarine blue     0.05black iron oxide     0.10FD&amp;C yellow 5 aluminum lake                0.50Yellow iron oxide    1.20methyl paraben       0.20propyl paraben       0.15propylene glycol     0.50silica               3.00talc                 4.00isopropyl triisostearyl titanate                0.50______________________________________ 
    
     EXAMPLE 2 
     A peach blush was prepared as follows: 
     
         ______________________________________              W/W %______________________________________octylmethoxycinnamate                2.30octylstearate        30.00isostearyl neopentanoate                9.30octyldodecanol       6.20petrolatum           5.40lanolin alcohol      0.60polyglyceryl 3 diisostearate                0.50simethicone          0.30imidiazolidinyl urea 0.15EAC                  10.00mica                 6.01nylon                10.00titanium dioxide     5.00D&amp;C Red 6 barium lake                0.60FD&amp;C yellow 5 aluminum lake                0.20black iron oxide     0.05yellow iron oxide    1.82red iron oxide       0.72polyvinylidene copolymer                7.00talc                 4.00isopropyl triisostearyl titanate                0.50silica               3.00methyl paraben       0.50propyl paraben       0.15propylene glycol     0.50______________________________________ 
    
     EXAMPLE 3 
     A pink blush was prepared as follows: 
     
         ______________________________________              W/W %______________________________________octylmethoxycinnamate                2.30octylstearate        26.00isostearyl neopentanoate                9.20octyldodecanol       5.65petrolatum           4.00lanolin alcohol      1.00polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate                0.50simethicone          0.30imidiazolidinyl urea 1.00EAC                  2.50mica                 10.00nylon                10.00propylene glycol     0.50titanium dioxide     10.00Red 6 barium lake    3.00Yellow 5 aluminum lake                1.20Ultramarine blue     0.15Red iron oxide       0.10Polyvinylidene copolymer                2.3silica               10.00Bismuth oxychloride  2.00methyl paraben       0.20propyl paraben       0.15______________________________________ 
    
     EXAMPLE 4 
     
         ______________________________________              W/W %______________________________________octylstearate        25.00EAC                  8.70isostearyl neopentanoate                10.58octyldodecanol       5.98petrolatum           5.18lanolin alcohol      5.00TiO.sub.2 /dimethicone                10.50Yellow iron oxide dimethicone                1.50Red iron oxide/dimethicone                1.00mica                 19.31polyvinylidene copolymer/talc                7.00methyl paraben       .15propyl paraben       .10                100.00______________________________________ 
    
     The ingredients were combined with heat, and mixed until uniform. The make-up was poured into a pan and allowed to setup. 
     EXAMPLE 5 
     
         ______________________________________               W/W %______________________________________octylstearate         25.00EAC                   3.70isostearyl neopentanoate                 9.20octyldodecanol        5.20petrolatum/lanolin alcohol                 4.50nylon                 10.00mica                  11.64Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate                 5.00TiO.sub.2 /dimethicone                 13.60FD&amp;C Yellow 5 Aluminium Lake                 0.30D&amp;C Red 6 Barium Lake 0.10Polyvinylidene copolymer/talc                 7.00propylene glycol      0.60methyl paraben        0.10propyl paraben        0.10imidazolidinyl urea   0.20octylstearate         QS 100.00______________________________________ 
    
     The above ingredients were mixed with heating until uniform. The make-up was poured into a pan and allowed to setup. 
     EXAMPLE 6 
     An eyeshadow composition was made as follows: 
     
         ______________________________________               W/W %______________________________________petrolatum            4.32octylstearate         27.00isostearyl neopentanoate                 10.00octyldodecanol        5.60lanolin alcohol       0.48propylene glycol      0.60methyl paraben        0.10propyl paraben        0.10Imidazolidinyl urea   0.20EAC                   4.70TiO.sub.2             6.60mica                  2.05Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate                 5.00Yellow iron oxide     3.00Red iron oxide        1.90Black iron oxide      1.35silica                4.00Polyvinylidene copolymer/talc                 7.00                 100.00______________________________________ 
    
     The above ingredients were mixed with heated until uniform. The product was molded into the desired shapes. 
     While the invention has been described in connection with the preferred embodiment, it is not intended to limit the scope of the invention to the particular form set forth, but, on the contrary, it is intended to cover such alternatives and modifications, and equivalents as may be included within the spirit and scope of the appended claims.