Abstract:
The present invention relates to the use of natural or purified lipids or fats extracted from the fruit of a palm tree of the genus Astrocaryum, for increasing dermic and/or capillary hydration. The palm fats of the present invention may be used in hygiene products, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products. The invention also includes compositions containing the palm fats obtained according to the invention.

Description:
RELATED APPLICATIONS  
         [0001]    This application claims priority to Brazilian patent application number PI0106625-0 filed Oct. 8, 2001, the entirety of which is incorporated herein by reference.  
         FIELD OF THE INVENTION  
         [0002]    The present invention relates to the use of natural or purified and stable vegetable fat extracted from the fruit of the palm tree of the genus Astrocaryum for increasing dermal and/or capillary hydration/emollience, and compositions containing such fats. The material palm fats extracted according to the invention may be used in hygiene products, cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.  
         BACKGROUND  
         [0003]    Vegetable oils and fats usually have a hydrating/emollient action. Vegetable and animal fats and oils have long been known to be emollients (Berdick, 1972), as there are records of such use in cosmetics since 7000 B.C. (Denavarre, 1978). These lipidic compounds have a soothing effect on the skin and make the hair easier to comb. Vegetable oils and fats usually surpass animal oil and fats, keeping the advantage of being emollient, making the hair easier to comb, being safe and providing a soothing effect with less of a greasy feel (Berdick, 1972).  
           [0004]    Emollients are substances that maintain skin&#39;s softness, smoothness and flexibility, having a protective effect against dehydration and irritation, forming a barrier that prevents the excessive loss of cutaneous moisture (Hamilton, 1971). In addition to these two known hydration, occlusion and humidifying mechanisms, a third mechanisms has been recently proposed, the intercellular lipids stabilization mechanism in the lamellar crystalline liquid phases. The fats and the oils or products that may act according to these mechanisms provide a longer lasting hydration (Barker, 1992).  
           [0005]    Lipids commonly used in hydrating products may reduce the reaction of irritating agents in the skin (Loden and Anderson, 1996). The incorporation of these humidifying agents as topical use ingredients provides protection effects and substitution of some of the skin&#39;s lipidic layers (SCHAICH and KORTING, 1992).  
           [0006]    The use of physiologic lipids lead to new forms of topical therapies for dermatoses (such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and irritating dermatitis) caused by the abnormal functioning of the lipidic barrier (Feingold, et al., 1996).  
         SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION  
         [0007]    The present invention comprises natural fats extracted from the fruits of a palm tree of the genus Astrocaryum, and their use in compositions and methods for increasing skin emolliance and/or hydration. The present invention is based on the surprising discovery that fats from Astrocaryum palm trees can increase in the skin&#39;s hydration potential up to ninety-four point eight percent (94.8%). 
       
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES  
       [0008]    [0008]FIG. 1 is a graph illustrating the increase in the tewametric index using compositions of the present invention.  
         [0009]    [0009]FIG. 2 is a graph illustrating the improvement in the cutaneous barrier using compositions of the present invention. 
     
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION  
       [0010]    The fruits of the palm tree of the genus Astrocaryum have two parts—pulp and seeds—from which it is possible to obtain crude oils and fats by cold extraction, e.g., using hydraulic or continuous screw presses (expellers), or also by the traditional extraction method using boiling water and removing the oil or floating fat. The pulp may be processed dry or wet.  
         [0011]    Crude fat from the fruit of the palm tree of the genus Astrocaryum can be obtained by cold pressing. The seed of the fruit is composed by a hard wooden shell and an inner almond that is removed after the shells are broken. The whole almond, either broken or ground, is subject to a cold extraction process in hydraulic or continuous screw presses (expellers), or further by the traditional extraction method using boiling water and removing the oil or floating fat, thus obtaining the crude fat. The crude fat then can be refined to obtain the fats of the present invention.  
         [0012]    In a preferred embodiment, the crude fat from the fruit of the palm tree of the genus Astrocaryum is further refined according to the following process:  
         [0013]    Step 1—De-gumming—if necessary, upon addition of two percent (2%) of water (70° C.) under the fat at 70° C.-80° C., agitating for 10-15 minutes, followed by centrifuging and removal of the heavy phase (gum).  
         [0014]    Step 2—Neutralization—with NaOH aqueous solution, at 16-18° Be (Baumé), added to the oil at 70-80° C., agitating for 10-15 minutes, followed by centrifuging and removal of the heavy phase (sediments).  
         [0015]    Step 3—Wash—with hot water (80-95° C.), two or three times, if necessary.  
         [0016]    Step 4—Drying—under vacuum at 70-90° C.  
         [0017]    Step 5—Bleaching—with bleaching clay (0.2-2%), under vacuum at 70-90° C. for 10-15 minutes, followed by filtering and cooling.  
         [0018]    Step 6—Deodorization—under vacuum and N 2  current or water vapor at 120-180° C. for 1-5 hours, cool under vacuum to 45-50° C. and unload the reactor. Analyses: Acidity. Peroxide, color, stability.  
         [0019]    Using the  Astrocaryum murumuru  and  Astrocaryum tucumã  species as an example, the typical physio-chemical and microbiologic characteristics of purified vegetable fat derived from Astrocaryum trees are as follows:  
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Analyses   Unit     Astrocaryum murumuru       Astrocaryum tucumã                 Appearance (25° C.)   —   Fatty solid   Fatty solid       Color   —   White to light yellow   White to light yellow       Odor   —   Characteristic   Characteristic            Acidity Index   mg KOH/g   5.00   max. *   5.00   max. *            Saponification Index   mg KOH/g     200-270 *     200-270 *            Iodine Index   g I2_/100 g   24.0   max. *   24.0   max. *       Fusion Index   ° C.           Non-saponifiable   % p/p   0.2   min.   0.2   min.       materials       Peroxides Index   mEq o2/1000 g   12.0   max.   12.0   max.       Water Content (KF)   % p/p   0.30   max.   0.30   max.       Standard Plate Count   UFC/ml   100   max.   100   max.            Fecal Coliform Count   UFC/ml   Absent   Absent         Escherichia coli     UFC/ml   Absent   Absent       Molds and Yeasts   UFC/ml   Absent   Absent         Salmonella spp     UFC/ml   Absent   Absent         Staphylococcus aureus     UFC/ml   Absent   Absent         Pseudomonas sp     UFC/ml   Absent   Absent                                    %   %           Fatty Acids     Astrocaryum murumuru       Astrocaryum tucumã                               C8:0   2.0   max.   2.0   max.           C10:0   2.0   max.   2.0   max.                C12:0   45-60   45-60           C14:0   20-30   20-30           C16:0   5.0-8.5   5.0-8.5           C18:0   1.0-3.5   1.0-3.5           C18:1    5.0-10.0    5.0-10.0           C18:2   2.0-4.0   2.0-4.0                      
 
         [0020]    Fats derived from Astrocaryum trees comprise a combination of fatty acides, as exemplified in the table below. The fatty acids present in the highest concentration in the present purified vegetable fats of the genus Astrocaryum are lauric and myristic acids (medium-chain fatty acids),:  
         [0021]    Tests demonstrating the increase in hydration using the palm fats obtained as described above were carried out at EVIC Brasil, which is located at Av. Indianópolis, 1455—Planalto Paulista—04063-002—São Paulo. Tests for the evaluation of the Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier after a Single Application of a Cosmetic Product in Humans, considering the potential to obtain a cutaneous barrier forming and fully transcribed effect are described below.  
         [0022]    PRODUCT STUDY/REFERENCE: EBb012b/01.034, 01.042, 01.043:EVALUATION OF THE MAINTENANCE OF THE CUTANEOUS BARRIER AFTER A SINGLE APPLICATION OF A COSMETIC. PRODUCT IN HUMANS  
         [0023]    TEST PRODUCTS: Base Emulsion, 0.2%, 1% and 3%  Astrocaryum murumuru  emulsion  
         [0024]    The skin is an external barrier of our organism that performs several functions: protection against physical damage and ultraviolet radiation, control of the entrance of external materials (such as water and microorganisms), control of the excretion of fluids, salts and other substances, thermoregulation, among others.  
         [0025]    Water is a very important component of skin for the maintenance of its physical integrity, elasticity and other properties.  
         [0026]    The water in stratum corneum comes form inferior layers such as the epidermis and the dermis, and evaporates into the atmosphere.  
         [0027]    The skin&#39;s water retention capacity may be evaluated in several ways. In this study the transepidermal water loss was determined in order to evaluate each hydrating product&#39;s efficacy and to improve the skin&#39;s hydric conditions after a single application.  
         [0028]    The study evaluates the effect of a cosmetic product on the loss of the skin&#39;s transepidermal water loss after a single application (forearm) under controlled conditions.  
         [0029]    The study was monocentric and was openly carried out. The control was intraindividual.  
         [0030]    The study was carried out according to the general conditions of EVIC International and those that are specific from the Investigation Center and that were established for the performance of tests in humans.  
                                                     Test product identification                3% Creamy   0.2% Creamy   1% Creamy               Emulsion   Emulsion   Emulsion   Creamy             Astrocaryum       Astrocaryum       Astrocaryum     Emulsion       Name     murumuru       murumuru       murumuru     Vehicle               Reference   01.034   01.041   01.042   01.043       Batch #   CL028B01   CL028E01   CL028A01   CL028D01       Galenic Form and   white emulsion   white emulsion   white emulsion   white emulsion       organoleptic           characteristics           Necessary   50 g/L   50 g/L   50 g/L   50 g/L       quantity / # of           packages                  
 
         [0031]    The formula for the products tested are described below.  
         [0032]    Test Product Related Information  
         [0033]    There were 10 volunteers whose data were extrapolated in the end of the study.  
         [0034]    The specific inclusion criteria were as follows:  
         [0035]    age: 18 to 54 years old  
         [0036]    gender: male or female  
         [0037]    phototype (Fitzpatrick): I to IV  
         [0038]    dry and hairless skin in the front part of the forearm  
         [0039]    Specific Non-Inclusive Criteria:  
         [0040]    The specific non-inclusive criteria were as follows:  
         [0041]    cutaneous marks in the experimental area, which may interfere with the evaluation of cutaneous reactions (pigmentation problems, scars, overdeveloped pilosity, ephelis, and neavi in large quantity, sun burn . . . )  
         [0042]    allergy or reactivity to the category of the product tested  
         [0043]    treatment using a hydrating product in the experimental zone 2 weeks before the beginning of the study  
         [0044]    treatment using acidic Vitamin A and its derivatives within 3 months before the beginning of the study  
         [0045]    Experimental Areas  
         [0046]    The experimental areas are the front sides of the forearms: one randomly chosen forearm receives the product and the other serves as a non-treated control.  
         [0047]    Product Application Conditions  
         [0048]    *treated area: The product is applied once by the technician in charge of the study using a latex finger cots with a light finger massage up to penetration in an outlined area of 25 cm 2 , at an amount of 2 mg/cm 2 , in the institute.  
         [0049]    *control area: An area of 25 cm 2  is outlined in the contralateral forearm in the same manner as in the treated side, but no product is applied.  
         [0050]    Conditions Required by the Study  
         [0051]    The conditions imposed on the volunteers were as follows:  
         [0052]    no other product different from the one being tested should be applied to the experimental area  
         [0053]    no anti-allergic or anti-inflammatory treatment and/or with acidic vitamin A (and its derivatives) in the day of the study  
         [0054]    Instrumental Evaluation of the Hydrating Effect  
         [0055]    The hydration level of the skin&#39;s outer layers is quantitatively evaluated by the capacitance measures in different experimental periods.  
         [0056]    The product&#39;s hydrating effect is evaluated by the hydration kinetic comparison gathered from two experimental areas.  
         [0057]    All volunteers included in the study are considered in order to evaluate the test product&#39;s efficacy, so they are subject to all examinations in defined times.  
         [0058]    Equipment  
         [0059]    Transepidermic water loss (TEWL) is evaluated by a Tewameter TW210(Courage&amp;Khazaka), which has a probe with a pair of sensors for temperature and humidity. According to Fick&#39;s Law, the diffusion of water (mass by area in a determined period) is proportional to the concentration gradient of water in the probe. There is a variation in the TEWL measured when the skin&#39;s hydration varies.  
         [0060]    Environmental Condition  
         [0061]    The environmental conditions imposed to the volunteers 30 minutes before the beginning of measurements, and throughout the whole test were:  
         [0062]    Temperature: t°=20° C.+/−2° C.  
         [0063]    Relative Humidity: RH=40% +/−15%  
         [0064]    Measurement Sites  
         [0065]    The instrumental measurements are performed in documented and defined sites of the control and treated areas.  
         [0066]    Measurement Rate  
         [0067]    The measures are taken before the product is applied, 1 hour (T1), 2 hours (T2), 3 hours (T3) and 4 hours (T4) after application of the product.  
         [0068]    Evaluation Criteria  
         [0069]    The system&#39;s transepidermic water loss amounts are expressed in g/m 2 h. Expression and Interpretation of Results  
         [0070]    The individual results are expressed in:  
         [0071]    absolute amounts in each experimental period,  
         [0072]    variation rates in comparison with T0,  
         [0073]    differences between the variation rates in comparison with T0 (control and treated areas).  
         [0074]    The average and standard deviations are calculated.  
         [0075]    The interpretation of the result is:  
         [0076]    absolute, related to:  
         [0077]    the percentage of “reactive” volunteers: volunteers in whose difference between variation rates in comparison with T0 (control and treated areas) is equal to or exceeds 10%,  
         [0078]    the rate of increase in transepidermic water loss under when effect of the product: at each experimental period (difference between variation rates in comparison with T0—control and treated areas) in “reactive” volunteers,  
         [0079]    rate of improvement in cutaneous barrier formation under when effect of the product: at each experimental period (normalized difference between the rate of increase in the tewametric index between the base and the product) in “reactive” volunteers.  
         [0080]    Table 1 below sets out the typological characteristics of the volunteers tested.  
         [0081]    Results  
         [0082]    The individual data (absolute amounts for each experimental period, variation rates in comparison with T0, differences between variation rates in comparison with T0 of the control and treated areas) and the statistic analysis details are included in Table 2A-2D. The randomizing table of the left/right sides is included in Table 3.  
         [0083]    “Reactive” volunteer results are shown below for each product:  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Formula 3 (01.034): 3.0%  Astrocaryum murumuru              Variation of the tewametric indexes   Experimental periods            compared with T0   T1   T2   T3   T4                    Treated area   3.5   8.0   8.0   8.7       Control area   −4.6   −7.3   −2.8   1.6       Difference between the control and   4.7   7.8   8.0   6.1       treated area           % of “reactive” volunteers   60   60   70   70                    Maximum effect in the increase of TEWL in 3 hours   % of increase in           tewametric index = 8.0       Remaining effect 4 hours after application   % of increase in           tewametric index = 6.1       Maximum effect in the cutaneous barrier 1 hour after application   % of improvement in           cutaneous barrier = 94.8                    Formula 1 (01.041): 0.2%  Astrocaryum murumuru              Variation of the tewametric indexes   Experimental periods            compared with T0   T1   T2   T3   T4                    Treated area   51.5   51.8   50.9   70.9       Control area   −4.3   −6.7   −2.5   −9.5       Difference between the control and   55.7   58.5   53.4   80.4       treated area           % of “reactive” volunteers   80   90   90   90                    Maximum effect in the increase of TEWL in 4 hours   % of increase in           tewametric index = 80.4       Remaining effect 4 hours after application   % of increase in           tewametric index = 80.4       Maximum effect in the cutaneous barrier 3 hours after application   % of improvement in           cutaneous barrier = 29.3                    Formula 2 (01.042): 1.0%  Astrocaryum murumuru              Variation of the tewametric indexes   Experimental periods            compared with T0   T1   T2   T3   T4                    Treated area   44.7   51.4   48.5   54.3       Control area   4.2   2.2   3.5   8.3       Difference between the control and   40.5   49.2   45.0   46.0       treated area           % of “reactive” volunteers   90   80   70   80                    Maximum effect in the increase of TEWL in 2 hours   % of increase in           tewametric index = 49.2       Remaining effect 4 hours after application   % of increase in           tewametric index = 46.0       Maximum effect in the cutaneous barrier 1 hour after application   % of improvement in           cutaneous barrier = 54.7                    Formula 4 (01.043): Base Emulsion            Variation of the tewametric indexes   Experimental periods            compared with T0   T1   T2   T3   T4                    Treated area   91.1   92.8   87.4   66.4       Control area   1.6   5.2   11.8   5.3       Difference between the control and   89.5   87.6   75.6   61.1       treated area           % of “reactive” volunteers   100   100   100   90                    Maximum effect in the increase of TEWL in 4 hours   % of increase in           tewametric index = 61.1       Remaining effect 4 hours after application   % of increase in           tewametric index = 61.1                  
 
         [0084]    [0084]FIG. 1 shows the % of increase in tewametric index  
         [0085]    [0085]FIG. 2 shows the % of improvement in cutaneous barrier  
         [0086]    Conclusions  
         [0087]    Under the experimental conditions adopted and taking into consideration the evolution of the instrumental parameters considered:  
         [0088]    the 0.2%  Astrocaryum murumuru  emulsion (Formula 1) has a 29.3% cutaneous barrier forming effect (in relation to the base) in 90% of the panel 3 hours after application,  
         [0089]    the 1.0%  Astrocaryum murumuru  emulsion (Formula 2) has a 54.7% cutaneous barrier forming effect (in relation to the base) in 90% of the panel 1 hour after application,  
         [0090]    the 3.0%  Astrocaryum murumuru  emulsion (Formula 3) has a 94.8% cutaneous barrier forming effect (in relation to the base) in 60% of the panel 1 hour after application.  
                                                                                                                         TABLE 1                           TYPOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE VOLUNTEERS            Volunteers       Gender                    Name       M = Male       Dry skin   Comeometric       Ref.   Last name   Age   F = Female   Phototype*   on forearm   index on T0                    1   Tere C   50   F   III   X   40       2   Izab J   51   F   IV   X   36       3   Arad S   40   F   IV   X   30       4   Dolo N   61   F   IV   X   28       5   Patr F   29   F   IV   X   44       6   Simo F   19   F   III   X   36       7   Luiz M   45   F   IV   X   27       8   Luiz S   45   F   IV   X   47       9   Porf D   45   F   IV   X   51       10   Egla C   39   F   IV   X   38                                                    Fitzpatrick&#39;s classification            Type   Hair   Skin   Freckles   Sun burns               I   red   light   +++   Constant                       no tanning       II   light   light   ++   Frequent                       tans lightly       III   light brown   light   +   Inconsistent                       tans moderately       IV   dark   brown   0   None                       considerable tanning       V   black and curly   black   0   0                  
 
         [0091]    [0091]                                                                                                                                                                           TABLE 2A.1                           INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product: 01.034 (Formula 3)                Control Area                    co V %               Variation percentages in       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   comparison with T0            reference   T0   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   1.5   1.0   1.0   1.3   1.5   −33.3   −33.3   −13.3   0.0       2   1.4   1.2   1.2   1.3   1.0   −14.3   −14.3   −7.1   −28.6       3   1.0   1.0   1.0   1.0   1.3   0.0   0.0   0.0   30.0       4   4.5   4.5   4.6   4.6   4.6   0.0   2.2   2.2   2.2       5   4.4   4.8   4.5   4.8   4.6   9.1   2.3   9.1   4.5       6   4.8   5.2   5.0   5.1   5.3   8.3   4.2   6.3   10.4       7   1.8   2.1   1.9   2.0   1.9   16.7   5.6   11.1   5.6       8   7.5   8.0   7.9   7.5   7.4   6.7   5.3   0.0   −1.3       9   2.6   2.8   2.6   2.3   2.3   7.7   0.0   −11.5   −11.5       10   3.1   2.8   2.8   3.0   3.3   −9.7   −9.7   −3.2   6.5            Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   3.3   3.3   3.3   3.3   3.3   −0.9%   −3.8%   −0.7%   1.8%       Standard   2.0   2.3   2.2   2.1   2.1   14.7%   12.3%   8.3%   15.1%       Deviation                    
         [0092]    [0092]                                                                                                                                                                   TABLE 2A.2                                       Treated Area                    tr V %               Variation percentages in       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   comparison with T0            reference   T1   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   1.2   2.2   2.4   2.0   2.2   83.3   100.0   66.7   83.3       2   0.6   0.6   0.7   1.1   1.0   0.0   16.7   83.3   66.7       3   2.5   1.6   1.5   0.5   0.5   −36.0   −40.0   −80.0   −80.0       4   4.0   5.0   5.0   4.2   4.3   25.0   25.0   5.0   7.5       5   3.6   4.1   4.0   4.5   4.8   13.9   11.1   25.0   33.3       6   4.8   4.5   4.5   4.5   4.6   −6.3   −6.3   −6.3   −4.2       7   1.5   1.7   1.8   1.9   1.5   13.3   20.0   26.7   0.0       8   7.0   6.8   7.0   6.5   6.1   −2.9   0.0   −7.1   −12.7       9   4.7   3.4   3.5   3.5   3.5   −27.7   −25.5   −25.5   −25.5       10   4.1   3.0   3.1   3.2   3.3   −26.8   −24.4   −22.0   −19.5            Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   3.4   3.3   3.4   3.2   3.2   3.6%   7.7%   6.6%   4.9%       Standard   2.0   1.9   1.9   1.8   1.8   34.4%   39.1%   47.1%   47.1%       Deviation                    
         [0093]    [0093]                                                                                                       INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product: 01.034 (Formula 3)       Table 2A.3            Volunteer&#39;s   tr V − co V difference (%)   Reactive            reference   T1   T2   T3   T4   volunteers*                    1   116.7   133.3   80.0   83.3   X       2   14.3   31.0   90.5   95.2   X       3   −36.0   −40.0   −80.0   −110.0   X       4   25.0   22.8   2.8   5.3   /       5   4.8   8.8   15.9   28.8   X       6   −14.6   −10.4   −12.5   −14.6   X       7   −3.3   14.4   15.6   −5.6   /       8   −9.5   −5.3   −7.1   −11.4   /       9   −35.4   −25.5   −14.0   −14.0   X       10   −17.2   −14.7   −18.7   −26.0   X                                                    
         [0094]    [0094]                                                                                                                                                                           TABLE 2B                           INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product: 01.041 (Formula 1)       Table 2B.1                Control Area                    co V %               Variation percentages in       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   comparison with T0            reference   T0   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   1.1   0.9   0.8   1.2   1.0   −18.2   −27.3   9.1   −9.1       2   1.2   1.2   1.1   1.2   0.8   0.0   −8.3   0.0   −33.3       3   0.6   0.8   0.8   0.8   0.7   33.3   33.3   33.3   16.7       4   4.3   4.3   4.3   4.5   4.3   0.0   0.0   4.7   0.0       5   4.4   4.1   4.1   4.4   4.1   −6.8   −6.8   0.0   −6.8       6   4.0   4.3   4.0   4.0   4.4   7.5   0.0   0.0   10.0       7   1.6   1.3   1.3   1.1   1.0   −18.8   −18.8   −37.5   −37.5       8   6.7   6.5   7.0   6.8   6.1   −3.0   4.5   1.5   −9.0       9   2.5   2.0   2.0   2.1   2.2   −20.0   −20.0   −16.0   −12.0       10   2.4   2.1   2.0   2.1   2.3   −12.5   −16.7   −12.5   −4.2            Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   2.9   2.8   2.7   2.8   2.7   −3.8%   −6.0%   −1.7%   −8.5%       Standard   1.9   1.9   2.0   2.0   1.9   16.0%   17.2%   18.3%   16.8%       Deviation                    
         [0095]    [0095]                                                                                                                                                                   TABLE 2B.2                                       Treated Area                    tr V %               Variation percentages in       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   comparison with T0            reference   T1   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   0.4   0.7   0.6   0.6   1.0   75.0   50.0   50.0   150.0       2   0.4   0.5   0.7   0.6   1.0   25.0   75.0   50.0   150.0       3   1.8   1.1   0.9   0.5   0.4   −38.9   −50.0   −72.2   −77.8       4   4.2   3.8   3.9   4.0   3.9   −9.5   −7.1   −4.8   −7.1       5   1.3   2.4   2.3   2.5   2.6   84.6   76.9   92.3   100.0       6   3.3   3.5   4.3   4.7   4.5   6.1   30.3   42.4   36.4       7   1.4   2.0   1.9   1.8   1.8   42.9   35.7   28.6   28.6       8   2.3   5.1   4.8   5.0   4.5   121.7   108.7   117.4   95.7       9   1.8   3.0   3.0   3.3   2.8   66.7   66.7   83.3   55.6       10   1.5   2.7   2.6   2.5   3.0   80.0   73.3   66.7   100.0            Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   1.8   2.5   2.5   2.6   2.6   45.4%   45.9%   45.4%   63.1%       Standard   1.2   1.5   1.5   1.7   1.5   49.4%   49.4%   53.7%   71.2%       Deviation                    
         [0096]    [0096]                                                                                                       INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product: 01.041       Table 2B.3            Volunteer&#39;s   tr V 0 co V difference (%)   Reactive            reference   T1   T2   T3   T4   volunteers*                    1   93.2   77.3   40.9   159.1   X       2   25.0   83.3   50.0   183.3   X       3   −72.2   −83.3   −105.6   −94.4   X       4   −9.5   −7.1   −9.4   −7.1   /       5   91.4   83.7   92.3   106.8   X       6   −1.4   30.3   42.4   26.4   X       7   61.6   54.5   66.1   66.1   X       8   124.7   104.2   115.9   104.6   X       9   86.7   86.7   99.3   67.6   X       10   92.5   90.0   79.2   104.2   X                                                    
         [0097]    [0097]                                                                                                                                                                           TABLE 2C                           INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product 01.042 (Formula 2)       Table 2C.1                Control Area                    co V %               Variation percentages in       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   comparison with T0            reference   T1   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   1.6   1.7   1.8   1.5   2.0   6.3   12.5   −6.3   25.0       2   2.0   2.1   2.0   2.0   1.8   5.0   0.0   0.0   −10.0       3   1.4   1.5   1.5   1.0   1.5   7.1   7.1   −28.6   7.1       4   4.6   4.0   4.5   4.5   4.6   −13.0   −2.2   −2.2   0.0       5   2.6   2.3   2.5   2.8   2.8   −11.5   −2.3   7.7   7.7       6   4.4   4.1   4.5   4.4   4.4   −6.8   2.3   0.0   0.0       7   1.3   1.6   1.1   1.6   1.6   23.1   −15.4   23.1   23.1       8   4.1   4.7   4.5   3.9   4.2   14.6   9.8   −4.9   2.4       9   2.5   2.3   2.0   2.4   2.7   −8.0   −20.0   −4.0   8.0       10   2.0   2.5   2.6   3.0   2.4   25.0   30.0   50.0   20.0            Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   2.7   2.7   2.7   2.7   2.8   4.2%   2.2%   3.5%   8.3%       Standard   1.3   1.2   1.3   1.2   1.2   13.9%   14.2%   20.7%   11.3%       Deviation                    
         [0098]    [0098]                                                                                                                                                                   TABLE 2C.2                                       Treated Area                    tr V %               Variation percentages in comparison       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   with T0            reference   T0   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   1.1   1.1   1.4   1.8   1.8   0.0   27.3   63.6   63.6       2   0.4   1.7   1.4   1.4   1.6   325.0   250.0   250.0   300.0       3   1.2   1.0   1.3   1.3   1.5   −16.7   8.3   8.3   25.0       4   3.2   3.8   4.6   4.0   3.8   18.8   43.8   25.0   18.8       5   2.8   3.2   3.8   4.1   3.7   14.3   35.7   46.4   32.1       6   3.4   4.1   5.0   4.4   3.8   20.6   47.1   29.4   11.8       7   1.2   1.6   1.8   1.5   1.5   33.3   50.0   25.0   25.0       8   8.0   7.8   8.0   7.3   7.1   −2.5   0.0   −8.8   −11.3       9   2.5   2.6   2.8   2.4   2.7   4.0   12.0   −4.0   8.0       10   2.0   3.0   2.8   3.0   3.4   50.0   40.0   50.0   70.0            Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   2.6   3.0   3.3   3.1   3.1   44.7%   51.4%   48.5%   54.3%       Standard   2.1   2.0   2.1   1.9   1.7   100.3%   71.8%   74.5%   89.7%       Deviation                    
         [0099]    [0099]                                                                                                       INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product: 01.042       Table 2C.3            Volunteer&#39;s   tr V 0 co V difference (%)   Reactive            reference   T1   T2   T3   T4   volunteers*                    1   −6.3   14.8   69.9   38.6   X       2   320.0   250.0   250.00   310.00   X       3   −23.8   1.2   36.9   17.9   X       4   31.8   45.9   27.2   18.8   X       5   25.8   38.0   38.7   24.5   X       6   27.4   44.8   29.4   11.8   X       7   10.3   65.4   1.9   1.9   X       8   −17.1   −9.8   −3.9   −13.7   X       9   12.0   32.0   0.0   0.0   X       10   25.0   10.0   0.0   50.0   X                                                    
         [0100]    [0100]                                                                                                                                 TABLE 2D                           INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product 01.043 (Formula 4)       Table 2D.1                Control Area                    co V %               Variation percentages in       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   comparison with T0            reference   T0   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   1.2   1.2   1.5   1.5   1.7   0.0   28.3   25.0   41.7       2   2.1   2.0   2.1   2.5   2.0   −4.8   0.0   19.0   −4.8       3   2.5   2.3   2.3   2.0   1.9   −8.0   −8.0   −20.0   −24.0       4   4.5   4.6   5.0   5.5   4.8   2.2   11.1   22.2   6.7       5   2.1   2.6   2.6   2.8   2.6   23.8   23.8   33.3   23.8       6   5.0   5.1   5.0   5.4   5.3   2.0   0.0   8.0   6.0       7   2.0   2.1   1.8   2.2   2.0   5.0   −10.0   10.0   0.0       8   8.0   7.5   7.8   8.7   8.2   −6.3   −2.5   8.7   2.5       9   4.2   4.0   4.0   3.5   3.8   −4.8   −4.8   −16.7   −9.5       10    2.8   3.0   3.2   3.6   3.1   7.1   14.3   28.6   10.7       Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   3.4   3.4   3.5   3.8   3.5   1.6%   5.2%   11.8%   5.3%       Standard   2.0   1.9   2.0   2.2   2.1   9.3%   13.4%   18.0%   18.0%       Deviation                    
         [0101]    [0101]                                                                                                                         TABLE 2D.2                                       Treated Area                    tr V %               Variation percentages in comparison       Volunteer&#39;s   Absolute Values   with T0            reference   T0   T1   T2   T3   T4   T1   T2   T3   T4                    1   0.8   2.5   2.0   2.0   2.0   212.5   150.0   150.0   150.0       2   0.3   2.1   2.1   2.0   1.5   600.0   600.0   566.7   400.0       3   0.8   1.0   1.0   1.3   0.8   25.0   25.0   62.5   0.0       4   2.5   4.0   4.3   4.3   4.3   60.0   72.0   72.0   72.0       5   5.1   4.1   4.3   4.3   4.0   −19.6   −15.7   −15.7   −21.6       6   2.0   4.3   5.1   4.5   4.7   115.0   155.0   125.0   135.0       7   1.4   1.2   1.6   1.3   1.4   −14.3   14.3   −7.1   0.0       8   13.6   10.0   10.0   9.2   9.2   −26.5   −26.5   −32.4   −32.4       9   5.9   4.0   3.8   4.0   4.0   −32.2   −35.6   −32.2   −32.2       10    4.7   4.3   4.2   4.0   4.4   −8.5   −10.6   −14.9   −6.4       Vol. No.   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10   10       Average   3.7   3.8   3.8   3.7   3.6   91.1%   92.8%   87.4%   66.4%       Standard   4.0   2.5   2.6   2.3   2.4   194.9%   191.1%   180.9%   135.1%       Deviation                    
         [0102]    [0102]                                                                                                                   INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            tewametric indexes       Product: 01.043       Table 2D.3                Volunteer&#39;s   tr V 0 co V difference (%)   Reactive                reference   T1   T2   T3   T4   volunteers*                            1   212.5   121.7   125.0   108.3   X           2   604.8   600.0   547.6   404.8   X           3   33.0   33.0   82.5   24.0   X           4   57.8   60.9   49.8   65.3   X           5   −43.4   −39.5   −49.0   −45.4   X           6   113.0   155.0   117.0   129.0   X           7   −19.3   24.3   −17.1   0.0   X           8   −20.2   −24.0   −41.1   −34.9   X           9   −27.4   −30.8   −15.5   −22.7   X           10   −15.7   −24.9   043.5   −17.1   X                                                                        
         [0103]    [0103]                                                                                                                       TABLE 3                           INSTRUMENTAL EVALUATION OF THE HYDRATING EFFECT            Randomizing Table            Ref.   01.034   01.041   01.042   01.043            Vol.   Treated   Control   Treated   Control   Treated   Control   Treated   Control                    1   R   L   R   L   L   R   L   R       2   R   L   R   L   L   R   L   R       3   L   R   L   R   R   L   R   L       4   R   L   R   L   L   R   L   R       5   L   R   L   R   R   L   R   L       6   L   R   L   R   R   L   R   L       7   R   L   R   L   L   R   L   R       8   L   R   L   R   R   L   R   L       9   L   R   L   R   R   L   R   L       10   L   R   L   R   R   L   R   L                                            
         [0104]    Formulas  
         [0105]    FORMULA 1: Reference 01.041  
         [0106]    0.2%  Astrocaryum murumuru  Creamy Emulsion  
         [0107]    FORMULA 3: Reference 01.034  
         [0108]    3%  Astrocaryum murumuru  Creamy Emulsion  
                                                         (% pp)                                    PHASE A           Non-ionic self-emulsifying base   5.00       Keto-stearic alcohol   2.00       Lanolin, Alcohol, mineral oil   2.00       Cetyl Acetate, acetylated Lanolin alcohol   2.00         Murumuru  butter   3.00       Butylparabene, Ethylparabene, Methylparabene, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparabene   .50       PHASE B       Distilled water qsp   100.00       Disodium edetate 99.3%   0.10       FORMULA 4: Reference 01.043       Creamy Emulsion - Vehicle       PHASE A       Non-ionic self-emulsifying base   5.00       Keto-stearic alcohol   2.00       Lanolin, Alcohol, mineral oil   2.00       Cetyl Acetate, acetylated lanolin alcohol   2.00       Butylparabene, Ethylparabene, Methylparabene, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparabene   .50       PHASE B       Distilled water qsp   100.00       Disodium edetate 99.3%   0.10                  
 
         [0109]    Equivalents  
         [0110]    The present invention encompasses many equivalents not specifically disclosed herein. Such equivalents are intended to be encompassed within the scope of the following claims.