Abstract:
A method of drawing a pattern for custom-tailored skirts in terms of taking into account a person&#39;s bodily dimensions, including measures around the waistline, around the largest part of the abdomen, another part of the abdomen thereabove, around the lower and lowermost hip, around the upper hip, various lateral distances between selected of the foregoing measures, the selected length of the skirt, and deviations from a standard body figure in terms of lateral deviations of portions of the wearer&#39;s body from a straight vertical line making contact with a laterally most protruding part of the wearer&#39;s body.

Description:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     The present invention relates to a basic formula of an active layout drawing in skirts tailoring and more particularly a basic formula to measure the figure of human body for making an active layout to fit the differences in body figure. 
     Regular layout drawing in skirts tailoring is unvarying and can not discover the defect in body figure for compensation in advance, thereby a misfit happens quite often and further alteration is usually required. Therefore, regular layout drawing technique is not perfectly applicable in mass production. 
     SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION 
     The main object of the present invention is to provide a right technique in body figure measurement and a basic formula of an active layout drawing in skirts tailoring so as to promote the quality, reduce the loss, and increase the productivity and the profit. 
     Another object of the present invention is to provide an active layout drawing technique such that the dress maker can easily handle any variation in body figure while tailoring to prevent any further alteration. 
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
     FIGS. 1-2 show the measuring technique applied according to the present invention. 
     FIGS. 3-6 show the drawing process of the layout drawing technique according to the present invention. 
     FIGS. 7-8 show a basic model of skirts layout drawing obtained according to the present invention. 
     FIGS. 9-14 show the practical measure according to the present invention. 
     FIGS. 15-17 show different basic models of the layout drawing according to the present invention. 
    
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT 
     Please refer to FIG. 1 and FIG. 2 regarding the measuring technique applied according to the present invention. 
     Measure around the waist line (A&#39;) (FIG. 1): To measure at the front one circle around the waist line. 
     Measure around a first lower waist line B&#39; (2): To measure one circle around the abdomen 5 cm below the waist line. 
     Measure around a second lower waist line C&#39; (3): To measure one circle around the abdomen 10 cm below the waist line. 
     Measure around the largest part of the hip D&#39; (4): To measure one circle around the hip at the largest part. Then, measure the depth from the waist line to the hip 1. 
     Measure around the bottom of the hip E&#39; (5): To measure one circle around the hip at the bottom of the hip. Then, measure the depth from the waist line to the hip E&#39;. 
     Measure of the length of the skirt: To measure laterally from the waist line to a preferred length. 
     The layout drawing technique is performed, as shown in FIG. 3, in accordance with the data obtained, in a way as described hereinafter: 
     Select a free point (1) and draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (1) and a vertical line downward from the point (1); set a point (2) at 5 cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1) and draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (2) in a length equal 1/4 of the measure around the first lower waist line B&#39; (2) (slack maybe considered according to requirement) so as to obtain a point (3); set a point (4) about 10 cm i.e., as obtained from the measure of the depth from the waist line 1 (A&#39;) to the largest part of the hip D&#39; downward along the vertical line from point (1) and draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (4) in a length equal to 1/4 of the measure around the second lower waist line C&#39; (slack maybe considered according to requirement) so as to obtain a point (5); set a point (6) downward along the vertical line from the point (1) at a distance of about 22 cm as obtained from the measure of the depth from the waist line to the bottom largest part of the hip D&#39;, and draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (6) in a length equal to 1/4 of the largest part of the measure around the hip D&#39; (slack maybe considered) so as to obtain a point (7); set a point (8) downward along the vertical line from the point (1) at approximate 28 cm as obtained from the measure of the depth from the waist line to the bottom of the hip, and draw a horizontal line leftward from the point (8) in a length equal to 1/4 of the measure around the hip E&#39; (slack maybe considered) so as to obtain a point (9); for the following description, please refer to FIG. 4, set a point (10) downward along the vertical line from the point (1) at a distance equal to the length of the skirt and draw therefrom a horizontal expansion line leftward as for expansion of the skirt, and set a point (11) at the same position as the point (7) and then draw a vertical line downward to cross with the leftwardly extending expansion line of the point (10) at a point (12); draw a curved line (13) properly from the point (11) upward to cross with the horizontal line extending from the point (1); set a point (14) at 1/6 of the width of the layout (spacing between points (6) and (7) above an intersection of the curved line (13) with the horizontal line extending leftwardly from the point (1): draw another horizontal line above the line originating from the point (1) to a position (which would normally correspond to a line around the abdomen) so as to obtain a point (15) (0-0.8 cm above point (1)) (if the measure around the waist line is 66  cm, the measure around the lower waist line 2 is 81 cm, then rise the line 0.5 cm up, and rise up further 0.3 cm if the respective measures are 5 cm over; in case of smaller measures, the line remains unchanged); for the following description, please refer to FIG. 5, set a point (16) at 1.3 cm downward along the vertical line from the point (1); set a point (17) leftward along the horizontal line from the point (1) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure around the waist line to offer a size for waist line, then draw lines to connect all the peripheral points obtained to form a basic layout model as shown in FIG. 8 wherein the marked area is the folding part; for the following description, please refer to FIG. 6, use a curve to draw a curved line from the point (5) through the point (7) or the point (9) to the bottom point (18) lying on the expansion line of the skirt to form an inclined or side line (18&#39;), then use a triangle with the longest side aimed at the side line [point(11) to point (18)] and with the shortest side passing through one third of the width of the expansion (line joining points 10 and 18) to draw a cutting line so as to complete the basic layout model as shown in FIG. 7. 
     Please refer to the practical measure as shown in FIGS. 9-14. In the present preferred embodiment, the features of the present practical measure are described hereinafter: 
     Measure around the waist line (A): Use a belt of width of 3 cm to fasten up the waist and then use a measuring tape to measure one circle around the waist. (72 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure around the abdomen 2 (C): Measure one circle around the largest part of the abdomen below the waist line (A) (92 cm in the embodiment). Then measure the depth laterally from the waist line (A) to the abdomen (C), the size thus obtained is the depth 2 (C1) (10 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure around the abdomen 1 (B): Measure one circle around the abdomen between (A) and (C) (84 cm in the embodiment). Then measure the depth laterally from the waist line (A) to the abdomen (B), the size thus obtained is the depth (B1) (5 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure around the lower hip 2 (E): Measure one circle around the hip at the largest part (96 cm in the embodiment). Then measure the depth laterally from the waist line (A) to the hip line (E), the size thus obtained is the depth 4 (E2) (23 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure around the upper hip 1 (D): Measure one circle around the hip between the abdomen 2 (C) and the hip line 2 (E) (95 cm in the embodiment). Then measure the depth from the waist line (A) to the upper hip line (D), the size thus obtained is the depth 3 (D1). 
     Measure around lowermost hip 3 (F): Measure one circle around the the legs at the bottom of the crotch (94 cm in the embodiment). Then measure the depth from the waist line (A) to the lowermost hip line (F), the size thus obtained is the depth 5 (F1) (29 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure of the side length (H): Measure laterally from the waist line to the horizontal of the ground (99 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure of the front length (G): Measure at the front from the waist line to the horizontal of the ground (98 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure of the back length (I): Measure at the back from the waist line through any horizontally protruding part of the hip to the horizontal of the ground (97 cm in the embodiment). 
     Measure of the side curve: Designate a side point (AA) for the waist line (A), a side point (BB) for the top abdomen 1 (B), a side point (CC) for the bottom abdomen 2 (C), a side point (EE) for the hip 2 (E), a side point (FF) for the hip 3 (F), then measure the side curve at each designated point by a meter. Or, alternately, position a straight line or ruler (J) vertically so as to be tangent to a rightmost protruding part of the body, as shown in the FIGS. 12-14 i.e. (S) (M) (L) resp. covering the area between the waist line (A) and the hip line 3 (F), then measure the width from the ruler (J) to the side point (BB) as for the side curve (K1); the width from the ruler (J) to the side point (CC) as for the side curve (K2); the width from the ruler (J) to the side point (EE) as for the side curve (K3); the width from the ruler (J) to the side point (FF) as for the side curve (K4). 
     Please refer to the FIGS. 15-17 for the drawing of the basic layout models according to the data obtained. The layout drawing of the front piece (T) and the back piece (R) as shown in FIG. 15 is completed in a way to freely draw a horizontal line (1) in a length 1/4 more over the measure (E) and draw a vertical line (2) downward from left end of the horizontal line (1), and then set a point (3) along the vertical line (2) from the point (1) at a distance equal to the depth (E2) (23 cm), then draw a horizontal line (4) rightward from the point (3), then set a point (5) rightward along the horizontal line (4) from the point (3) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (E) (1/4 of 96 cm=24 cm); draw a vertical line through the point (5) as a central line for the back piece (R) upward to a cross point (7) at the horizontal line (1) and downward to a horizontal line (44) at a selected depth of the expansion of the skirt; set a point (8) rightward along a horizontal line from the point (5) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the difference between the measure (E) and the measure (E1) [1/2 of (100 cm-96 cm)=2 cm], to obtain a point (8), then draw therefrom a vertical line (9) as a central line for the front piece (T) upward to a cross point (10) at the horizontal line (1) and downward to the bottom of the expansion line (44) of the skirt; compare the front length (G) (98 cm) and the side length (H) (99 cm), if the size (G) is shorter than the size (H) (1 cm shorter), use the difference in size to set point (11) downward from the point (10) along the vertical line (9) and then draw therefrom a horizontal line (42) to cross with the vertical line (6) at a cross point (47), if the size (G) is larger than the size (H) (0.5 cm for example), use the difference in size to set the point (11) upward from the point (10) along the vertical line (9) as the top point of the central line of the front piece (T) and then draw a slightly downwardly curved line (42) to connect the points (11) and (39); although this is not shown in FIG. 15, it corresponds to the line (42) connected between points (7) and (L5) in FIG. 17; compare the back length (I) (97 cm) and the side length (H) (99 cm), if the size (I) is shorter than the size (H) (2 cm shorter), use difference in size to set a point (12) downward along the vertical line (6) from the point (7) as the top point of the central line of the back piece (R). The case where size (I) is greater than size (H) is not considered here; set a point (13) downward along the vertical line (2) from leftmost point (45) on line 1, which point (13) is at a distance equal to the depth (F1) (29 cm), then draw a horizontal line (14) rightward from the point (13) to cross with the central line (6) of the back piece at a cross point (15); set a point (16) leftward along the horizontal line (14) from the point (15) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (F) (1/4 of 94 cm=23.5 cm); set a point (17) downward along the vertical line (2) from the point (45) at a distance equal to the depth 2 (C1) (10 cm), and then set a point (18) downward along the vertical line (9) from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 2 (C1), and then draw an oblique line (46) to connect points (17) and (18) and to cross with the vertical line (6) at a cross point (49), and then draw another oblique line (50) to connect points (5) and (18); set a point (19) downward along the vertical line (2) from the point (45) at a distance equal to the depth 1 (B1) (5 cm) and set a point (20) downward along the vertical line (9) from the point (11) at a distance equal to the depth 1 (B1), then draw an oblique line (21) to connect points (19) and (20) and to cross with the vertical line (6) at a cross point (48); set a point (22) downward along the vertical line (2) from the point (45) at a distance equal to the depth 3 (D1) (17 cm), then draw a horizontal line (23) rightward from the point (22) to cross with the vertical line (6) at a cross point (24) and to cross with the oblique line (50) at a cross point (25); set a point (26) downward along the vertical line (6) from the point (12) at a distance equal to the depth 1 (B1) (5 cm), then draw an oblique line (27) to connect points (19) and (26); set a point (28) downward along the vertical line (6) from the point (12) at a distance equal to the depth 2 (C1) (10 cm), then draw an oblique line (29) to connect points (17) and (28); set a central point (30) between the point (11) and the point (47) of the central line (9) and the central line (6), a central point (31) between the point (20) and the point (48), a central point (32) between the point (18) and the point (49), and a central point (33) between the point (25) and the point (24); set a point (34) leftwardly from the point (30) along horizontal line 1 at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (A) (1/4 of 72 cm=18 cm); set a point (35) leftward along the horizontal line (21) from the point (31) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (B) (1/4 of 84 cm=21 cm); set a point (36) leftward along the horizontal line (46) from the point (32) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (C); set a point (37) leftward along the horizontal line (23) from the point (33) at a distance equal to 1/4 of the measure (D) (1/4 of 95 cm=23.75 cm); set a point (41) rightward along the horizontal line (46) from the point (17) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the size (K2) (1/2 of 0.8 cm=0.4 cm), then set a point (40) rightward along the horizontal line (21) from the the point (19) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the measure (K1) (1/2 of 2.4 cm=1.2 cm), and then draw a curved line (38) upward from the point (13) through points (41) and (40) to cross with the horizontal line (1) at a cross point (39); draw a straight horizontal line from the point (11) leftward to a distance of one third of the length between the point (11) and the point (39) and then continue the line in a curved shape up to the point (39) to form a complete waist line (42) for the front piece; draw another waist line (43) for the back piece in a similar manner from the point (12) to the point (39); set the horizontal line (44) for the expansion of the skirt downward from the horizontal line (1) at a selected distance for the length of the skirt (60 cm in the embodiment) to respectively cross with the vertical lines (2), (6), (9) at the cross points (47), (46), (45&#39;); draw the outline of the front piece from the point (11) downward along the vertical line (9) to the cross point (45&#39;), then turning leftward along the horizontal line (44) to the point (47) and then turning upward to the point (3), and therefrom along the side curved line (38) through points (41) and (40) up to the point (39) and then turning rightward along the curved line (42) to the original point (11); make respective marks at horizontal lines (21), (46), (23), (4) and (14) and the oblique line from point (18) to point (5) and the points (34), (35), (36), (37) and (16); draw the outline for the back piece from the point (12) along the vertical line (6) to the point (46) then turning leftward along the horizontal line (44) to the point (47) and then turning upward to the point (3) and then along the curved line (38) through points (48), (41) and (40) to the point (39) and then turning rightward along the waist line (43) up to the original point (12); make respective marks at the oblique lines (27), (29), (23), (4) and (14) and the points (34), (35), (36), (37) and (16); the area between the points (34) and (39), the points (35) and (40), the points (36) and (41), the points (37) and (48) is the rest for folding. 
     Please refer to FIG. 16 and FIG. 13 wherein the side point (FF) at the hip line is the protruding point (as the M size in FIG. 13). Only the difference between FIGS. 15 and 16 will be discussed here. 
     Set a point (M1) leftward along the horizontal line from the point (13) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the size (k3) (1/2 of 1 cm=0.5 cm) then draw a vertical line (M0) through the point (M1) downward to the horizontal line (44) and upward to respectively cross with the horizontal lines (4), (23), (19) and (21) at the cross points (M2), (M3), (M4) and (M5); set a point (M6) rightward along the horizontal line (4) from the point (M2) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the size (K3) (1/2 of 1 cm=0.5 cm) and set a point (M8) rightward along the horizontal line (19) from the point (M4) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the size (K2) (1/2 of 4 cm=2 cm) and then set a point (M9) rightward along the horizontal line (21) from the point (M5) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the size (K1) (1/2 of 6 cm=3 cm); draw a curved line to connect the points (M1), (M6), (M8) and (M9) and to cross with the horizontal line (1) at a cross point (M10) so as to complete the side line of the basic layout drawing for M size. Only the difference between FIGS. 15 and 17 will be discussed here. 
     Please refer to FIG. 17 and FIG. 14 wherein the side point (CC) is the protruding point (as the L size in FIG. 14). Set a point (L1) leftward along the horizontal line (19) from the point (17) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the size (K3) (1/2 of 2 cm=1 cm), then draw a vertical line (L0) through the point (L1) downward to the horizontal line (44) and upward to the horizontal line (1) to cross with the horizontal line (21) at a cross point (L2); set a point (L3) rightward along the horizontal line (21) from the point (L2) at a distance equal to 1/2 of the size (K1) (1/2 of 1 cm=0.5 cm); draw a curved line (L4) upward from the point (L1) to cross with the horizontal line (1) at a cross point (L15) so as to complete a basic layout drawing for L size.