Abstract:
A method of making footwear. The method is suited generally to making skate boots and, more specifically, to making ice skates and in-line roller skates. The method comprises the steps of: (a) positioning a skin assembly over a structural inner shell component; (b) adhesively affixing the skin assembly to the structural inner shell component by applying pressure on the entire surface of the skin assembly; (c) perforating lace eyelets through the structural inner shell and the skin assembly; and (d) mounting a toe box and a tongue to the front portion of the structural inner shell component.

Description:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION 
     The invention relates to a method of making footwear and more particularly for making a skate boot suitable for use on ice skates and for use on in-line roller skates. The invention also relates to a method of making boots and shoes. 
     BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 
     Traditionally, shoes, boots or skate boots are fabricated by shaping the footwear over a last. A last is a three-dimensional shape of the inside cavity of a boot or shoe, and which may be mounted upside down for ease of manipulation and assembly of the components making up the footwear. A pre-assembled fabric component is positioned over the last to be formed to the shape of the desire finished product. The pre-assembled component consists of various layers of fabric and/or leather material sewn and/or glued together, and sometimes reinforced with rigid components, which have the general configuration of the finished product but have not yet been shaped to the final form of the footwear. The rigidity and flexibility characteristics of the footwear are achieved by interposing the various layers of materials having suitable mechanical properties in specific regions of the pre-assembled component. An insole is positioned on the top portion of the last, which represents the inside bottom part of the footwear and the pre-assembled fabric component is positioned over the last. The fabric components are stretched over the last and pushed over the insole to conform to the specific shape of the last and then nailed or tacked, and glued to the insole to maintain the desired shape. Once the upper part of the footwear is completed, an outsole is glued over the preliminary assembly to finish the footwear. For skates, an accessory such as an ice runner holder or an in-line roller chassis is mounted to the outsole to complete the skate. 
     This type of process is extensively used in the shoemaking industry. It generates a good product but it has many disadvantages. For instance, the number of parts involved in the process can be staggering; a conventional ice skate for hockey may have some eighty parts to be assembled and shaped over the last. As a consequence, the manufacturing process is lengthy and complex. The nature of the assembly of part is inherently labor intensive and slow as there are many manual tasks to be performed and many steps are necessary to complete the footwear. The considerable number of elements to be assembled entails an increased risk of errors, particularly in the alignment of the various elements of the pre-assembled component. Also, the process of pushing and stretching the material over the last may not always provide a good alignment of the pre-assembled component over the insole. The accumulation of material between the insole and the outsole during the pulling and stretching step creates varations of the distance between the two parts, which are not desirable. The centering of the outsole with the formed pre-assembled component of the footwear become more difficult. The number of components involved in the process and the increased probability of misalignment of the various components, contribute at increasing the number of rejected shoes, boots or skates in the manufacturing process or at least, decrease the quality of the overall production. This traditional process of making footwear also requires several molds and cutting dies to produce all the parts necessary for making the footwear. 
     In an effort to reduce the number of components of footwear and specifically sports footwear like skiing and skating boot, these are increasingly made of a plastic molded shell and sometimes of a combination of a rigid with softer fabric components. U.S. Pat. No. 4,777,741 to Laurence discloses an article of footwear such as a shoe or skate, which comprises a molded exterior lower shell and a semi-rigid molded tongue portion to dose the footwear. U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,276 to Bourque discloses a skate boot made of a lower exterior molded rigid plastic portion and intermediate and upper portions made of pliable material to allow forward flexure and torsional flexibility in the ankle area. Finally U.S. Pat. No. 5,339,544 to Alberto discloses a footwear comprising a first component made of a single piece of molded synthetic material having a rear upper portion which extend from an insole, and a second component made of soft material having a front upper portion and a lining. The two components are connected together with the lining of the second component inserted inside the rear portion of the first component. 
     These designs effectively reduce the number of components utilized in the manufacturing process of a footwear or skate. However, the final product issued from any of these methods of making footwear, whether a shoe, a boot, or a skate, has the appearance of a plastic shell. Consumers are not particularly fond of the plastic shell look for footwear and show a preference to fabric or leather footwear product. 
     Thus there is a need in the industry for a method of making a footwear which controls the end shape and volume of the footwear and also utilizes fewer components and fewer steps than the traditional lasting method yet provides a final product that has the appearance of a footwear made with the traditional lasting method. 
     OBJECTS AND STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION 
     It is thus an object of the invention to provide a method of making footwear that uses fewer components and fewer steps than the traditional lasting method. 
     It is another object of the invention to provide a method of making footwear that has the appearance of footwear made with the traditional lasting method. 
     It is another object of the invention to provide a method of making footwear that is cost effective. 
     It is another object of the invention to provide a method of making footwear that provides consistency of assembly between parts and reduces rejects in the manufacturing process. 
     It is a further object of the invention to provide a method of making footwear which enable automation of the manufacturing process. 
     As embodied and broadly described herein, the invention provides a method of making a footwear comprising the steps of: 
     (a) positioning a skin assembly over an inner shell component; 
     (b) adhesively affixing said skin assembly to said inner shell component by applying pressure on the entire surface of said skin assembly; 
     (c) perforating lace eyelets through said inner shell and said skin assembly; and, 
     (d) mounting a toe box and a tongue to the front portion of said inner shell component. 
     Advantageously, the method further comprises the steps of mounting a ground-engaging supporting element to the bottom portion of the inner shell component and inserting a footbed into the footwear for cushioning the bottom portion of the footwear, the same method applies for making an ice skate and an in-line roller skate. 
     Other objects and features of the invention will become apparent by reference to the following description and the drawings. 
    
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS 
     A detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the present invention is provided herein below, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: 
     FIG. 1 is a top plan view of a skin for a footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 2 is a top plan view of the skin shown in FIG. 1 with some decorative components added; 
     FIG. 3 is a top plan view of a second embodiment of a skin for the footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 4 is a top plan view of the skin shown in FIG. 3 with some decorative components added; 
     FIG. 5 is a perspective view of a skin assembly for the footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 6 is a perspective view of a molded inner shell component of the footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 7 is a perspective view illustrating the assembly of the skin assembly and the molded inner shell component of the footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 8 is a perspective view illustrating the application of pressure to the surface of the skin assembly and the molded inner shell component according to the invention; 
     FIG. 9 is a perspective view of an apparatus used to apply pressure to a skin assembly as depicted in FIG. 8 according to the invention; 
     FIG. 10 is a perspective view of a completed boot constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 11 is a perspective view of a second embodiment of a skin assembly for the footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 12 is a perspective view of a second embodiment of a molded inner shell component of a footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 13 is a perspective view of the assembly of the skin assembly and the molded inner shell component shown in FIGS. 11 and 12; 
     FIG. 14 is a perspective view of the application of pressure to the surface of the skin assembly and the molded inner shell component shown in FIGS. 11 and 12 of a footwear constructed according to the invention; 
     FIG. 15 is a perspective view of a second embodiment of a footwear constructed according to of the invention; and 
     FIG. 16 is a perspective view of a third embodiment of a molded inner shell component of a footwear constructed according to the invention; 
    
    
     In the drawings, preferred embodiments of the invention are illustrated by way of examples. It is to be expressly understood that the description and drawings are only for the purpose of illustration and are an aid for understanding. They are not intended to be a definition of the limits of the invention. 
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS 
     FIG. 1 illustrates a skin  20 , which has been cut from a flat piece of fabric material or leather material. The cutting operation of skin  20  may be fully automated since it is performed on a flat surface. Skin  20  comprises a right quarter  22  and a left quarter  24  linked together by a bridge portion  26 . Each quarter  22  and  24  further comprises half-tendon guards  23  and  25  respectively. The heel portions  42  and  43  of each quarter  22  and  24  is given a slightly curvilinear profile to enable the formation of a rounded heel counter later on in the fabrication process of the footwear. Heel portions  42  and  43  are also provided with indentations  45  to ease the formation of a rounded heel counter. 
     FIG. 2 illustrates a skin  20  to which decorative components  31  and  32  were added. Decorative components  31  and  32  are assembled to skin  20  by automated process such as automatic stitching or welding. The automation of this process is again simplified because it is done on a flat surface. Components  32  may be stitched, welded or glued to components  31  in a first step then the assembly of components  31  and  32  may be assemble to skin  20  in a final step. Of course, the assembly of the various decorative components may be performed in any order to adapt to the specific physical requirements of available manufacturing equipment. It can also be done all at once. The flexibility of fabrication of the skin assembly is due primarily to the fact that all the operations, including the cutting of skin  20 , are performed while the fabric material is laying down flat. FIG. 2 illustrates the decorative components  31  and  32  stitched to skin  20  as shown by the stitching lines  33  and  34  by way of example only. Decorative components  31  and  32  could be welded or glued or otherwise affixed to skin  20  in any known fashion without departing from the principle of assembling as many if not all skin components while the various pieces are flat and therefore easy to work. The process is thereby simplified and can readily be automated. 
     FIGS. 3 and 4 illustrate a variation of a skin  20 . The right quarter  22  and the left quarter  24  are, in this case, linked together at tendon guard  37 , which is the equivalent of the assembly of half-tendon guard  23  and  25 , and at the rear portions  38  and  39  of each quarter  22  and  24 . Half-bridge portions  26 A and  26 B are provided at the lower part of each quarter  22  and  24 , to be used later on to form the skin assembly of the footwear. In this variation the heel portions  42  and  43  are separated by a cut-out portion  46  which has curvilinear walls to enable the formation of a rounded heel counter as previously mentioned when referring to slightly curvilinear profile of heel portions  42  and  43  shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. Heel portions  42  and  43  are also provided with indentations  45  to facilitate the formation of a rounded heel counter. 
     FIGS. 3 and 4 illustrate each quarter  22  and  24  having a similar profile to quarters  22  and  24  of skin  20  shown in FIG. 1 and 2. FIG. 3 illustrates a skin  20  made from a single flat piece of fabric or leather material whereas FIG. 4 illustrates a skin  20  with decorative components  31  and  32  added in the same fashion as previously described in FIG.  2 . 
     Skin  20  is cut, as its profile indicates, to conform to the general shape of a boot. Skin  20  may have a variety of shapes and profiles to conform to different types of footwear. For example, a low-cut boot would not feature a tendon guard  37  and its skin would be designed without one. Similarly, a shoe type footwear as shown in FIGS. 11 to  15  features a skin  20  which is very low and barely reaches the foot&#39;s malleollis. Shown in dotted lines is a variation of a footwear having higher sides which cover the foot&#39;s malleollis. 
     The skin  20  shown in FIG. 2 will be used as an example to illustrated the process of making a footwear according to the invention. Other types of skin configuration and pattern, such as those shown in FIGS. 1,  3  and  4  could be used. As a further variation of skin  20 , quarters  22  and  24  may be two single pieces joined together by a third piece covering bridge portion  26 . 
     Referring now to FIG. 5, the flat skin  20  has been folded at the bridge portion  26  and sewn at the rear edges of cuff portions  23  and  25  and at heel portions  42  and  43  to form a skin assembly  30 . The resulting seem  44  may be covered by an additional decorative piece if desired (not shown). As previously mentioned, when both heel portions  42  and  43  are sewn together, they form a rounded heel counter  48  which better conforms to the contours of the foot. Indentations  45  are also folded to form a round edge at the bottom portion of heel counter  48 . 
     The skin assembly  30 , once formed, preferably has openings  49  and  50  in its bottom portion, which provide direct access to the internal structure of the footwear. 
     FIG. 6 illustrates a molded inner shell  52  having the general outer shape of a boot. Inner shell  52  is preferably made of injected thermoplastic. It comprises a heel counter  58  and a tendon guard  60 , a medial quarter  54  and a lateral quarter  56  of variable thickness extending longitudinally from heel counter  58  to the front of inner shell  52 . Quarters  54  and  56  each have an edge  63 , which together define the main opening for insertion and removal of the foot. A sole  64  extends the entire length of inner shell  52 . Inner shell  52  is the central component of the footwear to be constructed. It is molded to conform generally to the shape of the foot and the shape given to inner shell  52  thereby dictates the general shape of the footwear. Inner shell  52  further provides the supporting structural element of the footwear. Since inner shell  52  is made and manufactured by injection molding, variation of its wall thickness is easily achieved. By strategically varying its wall&#39;s thickness, inner shell  52  may be provided with areas, which are more or less rigid and more or less flexible, as desired, depending on the purpose of the final product. For instance, an ice skate molded inner shell would have to have more overall rigidity than shoes for football or plain running shoes. 
     Variations of the materials employed or combining two or more materials are other methods of changing and varying the physical properties of inner shell  52  and therefore of the final footwear so constructed. Compatible materials may be manufactured by successive injections into the same mold. For example, an inner shell  52  may be molded with two materials: a more rigid material in areas where more support is necessary combined with a softer material in areas requiring more flexibility. Also, in the area corresponding generally to edges  63  where the lace eyelets will eventually be positioned, a slightly more resilient material may be used or the thickness of the material can be marginally increased in an effort to reinforce this locally solicited area. 
     Sole  64  may be substantially flat or it may comprise, as shown in FIG. 6, bottom projections  66  and  68  as means for attachment- to a ground engaging supporting element such as an ice runner or an in-line roller chassis. Projection  66  and  68  are designed to mate the opposing surface of the ground-engaging supporting element. This arrangement is shown as an example only since there are many possible variations. Sole  64  also comprises positioning pins  81 ,  82  and  83  adapted to align skin assembly  30  with inner shell  52 . 
     Please note that the frontal portion of inner shell  52  in the toe area  71  is open. Although not necessary, it allows the installation of a toebox/tongue assembly as shown in FIG.  10 . As a variation, Inner shell  52  could easily be closed at the toe area  71  so that the toe box would be integral with inner shell  52 . 
     The configuration of inner shell  52  and its inherent rigidity eliminates the need to use a last to shape the skin assembly  30 . As shown in FIGS. 7 and 8, skin assembly  30  is positioned over inner shell  52 . The general shape of skin assembly  30  ensures a good alignment between the two components. The alignment of openings  49  and  50  of skin assembly  30  with positioning pins  81 ,  82  and  83  provides increased accuracy of alignment. As best shown in FIG. 8, positioning pins  81 ,  82  and  83  correspond to the outer edges of openings  49  and  50  thereby ensuring proper alignment of the two components. Other means of alignment are possible without the use of opening  49  and  50 . Other Positioning pins (not shown) could be added to inner shell  52 , which could be inserted into corresponding apertures of skin assembly  30  to align the two components  30  and  52 . 
     Prior to positioning the skin assembly  30  over inner shell  52 , glue must be applied either to the interior surface of skin assembly  30  or the exterior surface of inner shell  52 . Once skin assembly  30  is in place, pressure is applied to the entire surface of skin assembly  30  as depicted by arrows  70 A and  70 B thereby solidly gluing the two components together. The skin assembly  30  will conform exactly to the, shape of inner shell  52  without the use of a form or last. The only rigid shape required for the process is the inner shell  52  itself. 
     FIG. 9 illustrates an example of an apparatus  100 , which may be used to evenly apply pressure to the entire surface of skin assembly  30 . Other means of applying even pressure to skin assembly  30  are possible without departing from the basic method hereby described. The clamping apparatus  100  shown in FIG. 9, comprises a supporting frame  102  having an upper traverse  103 , and two pillars  105  and  106  joined together at mid-height by an apron  104 . Control buttons are usually positioned on apron  104  for ease of access. Apron  104  surrounds a movable shell-supporting member  108  is having the general shape of an inner shell  52  and is mounted to a generally vertical hydraulic or pneumatic piston-cylinder  110 . A pair of clamps  112  and  113  are mounted to traverse  103  with struts  115  and are positioned directly above shell-supporting member  108 . Clamps  112  and  113 , each are provided with a bladder  117  consisting of an inflated flexible membrane and a fluid pressure delivery circuit (not shown). A pressure pad  120  having a general shape which substantially mates with the sole portion and the rear portion of inner shell  52  is located in between clamps  112 ,  113  at the top portion of the clamping pair. 
     In operation, the assembly of inner shell  52  and skin assembly  30  are positioned on shell-supporting member  108  and the operator activates the apparatus  100 . The cycle of apparatus  100  begins with the activation and extension of piston-cylinder  110 , which raises shell-supporting member  108  and therefore, inner shell  52  and skin assembly  30  upwardly, as shown with  30  arrow “A”, in between the open pair of damps  112 ,  113 . Shell-supporting member  108  travels up and reaches pressure pad  120 , at which point pressure builds up into piston-cylinder  110  to a set value and stops. The mating surface of pressure pad  120  and Shell-supporting member  108  thereby apply the initial pressure  70 A to the sole portion and the rear portion of skin assembly  30  onto inner shell  52 . Clamps  112  and  113  are then closed onto inner shell  52  and skin assembly  30  as shown with arrows “B”. With clamps  112 ,  113  closed and locked over the assembly, bladders  117  are inflated by air or liquid injection, which forces the flexible membranes of bladders  117  to encircle each quarter  22  and  24  of skin assembly  30  and apply pressure  70 B of FIG.  8 . Pressure builds up inside inflated bladders  117  to a set value and the flexible membranes apply an even pressure  70 B to each quarter surface of skin assembly  30 . The pressure is maintained for a few seconds and then released. Clamps  112  and  113  open up and shell-supporting member  108  is lowered to its initial position by piston-cylinder  110  retracting. The two initial components  30  and  52  are properly glued and can be removed from shell-supporting member  108 . 
     To provide good adhesion between skin assembly  30  and inner shell  52  using damping apparatus  100 , a pressure build-up of about  30 PSI is contemplated. Such a pressure requires that inner shell  52  be properly supported by shell-supporting member  108  during the application of the pressure. To that effect, shell-supporting members  108  of different sizes are provided for each footwear sizes being produced. This ensures that inner shell  52  will not collapse or distort during the application of a pressure of this magnitude. However, a much lower pressure can be used which will provide adequate adhesion. The pressure required for providing good adhesion between skin assembly  30  and inner shell  52 , is a function of the rigidity of skin assembly  30 &#39;s material, the complexity of the shape of the footwear. To improve and accelerate the gluing process, shell-supporting member  108  may be provided with heating and cooling channels (not shown). Depending on the type of glue being used, the part may be heated and then cooled to increase the efficiency of the process. 
     The manufacturing process is no longer a series of consecutive assembly steps which occur over the last of the footwear but is simply a joining together of two prefabricated items manufactured separately using different methods. This manufacturing process increases the possibilities of automation, as each item is fabricated separately and brought together at the end of the production cycle. Furthermore, the fabrication of skin assembly  30  from a flat skin  20  reduces the possibilities of errors and likewise, the injection molding of inner shell  52  is not conducive to errors. Once the mold is optimal, each part being produced from the mold is unlikely to substantially vary. The joining of the two components as previously explained only requires a minimal control of the alignment of the two prefabricated parts. This modular approach of the manufacturing process leads to a decrease in rejected items during production, a better control of the end shape and volume of the footwear and of course to a decrease in overall cost as production is rationalized. 
     As shown in FIG. 10 the remaining steps in the fabrication of the footwear  75 , are first, to punch lace eyelet holes  62  along the edges  63  using a automatic punch which guides itself along edges  63  and rapidly punches a series of eyelets  62  equally spaced apart. The following step is to install a toe box  76  and a tongue  78  or preferably, in the spirit of a modular approach, a toe-box/tongue assembly  79 , which covers the frontal portion of the footwear  75 . Toe-box/tongue assembly  79  is also manufactured separately and brought to the production line at the end of the production cycle only. Tongue  78  is sewn or glued to toe-box  76 . Toe-box  76  is glued to the upper frontal portion of sole  64  and can also be glued or sewn to the frontal portions  80  of each quarter  22 / 56  and  24 / 54 . A ground engaging supporting element such as an ice runner holder, an in-line roller chassis or any type of sole suitable for football, baseball, soccer or golf shoes is installed on the bottom of footwear  75 . 
     A suitable liner  51  is finally installed within the inner shell  52  of footwear  75 . The liner is preferably made of pre-formed foam material extending along each quarter  54  and  56  and around the heel counter region. A footbed (not shown) adapted to the contours of the foot is also positioned at the bottom of inner shell  52  to provide the required level of comfort to the footwear  75 . 
     FIGS. 11 to  15  illustrate the various components and steps necessary to fabricate a low-cut footwear according to the same basic method. FIG. 11 shows a skin assembly  200 , which has been folded, from a previously flat skin and sewn at the rear edges of each quarter  203  and  204 . A decorative component  201  was assembled to the flat skin by automated process as previously described. Skin assembly  200  presents a low cut profile. The upper edges  206  are much lower than skin assembly  30  shown in FIG. 5 as it extends nearly below the malleolis of the foot. 
     FIG. 12 shows a molded inner shell  210  preferably made of injected thermoplastic, which also presents a low-cut profile having the general outer shape of a shoe. Inner shell  210  comprises a heel counter  212 , a medial quarter  214  and a lateral quarter  215  of variable thickness extending longitudinally from heel counter  212  to the front portion of inner shell  210 . Edges  218  define the main opening for insertion and removal of the foot, and a sole  220  extends the entire length of inner shell  210 . Inner shell  210  is the central component of the shoe to be constructed. It is molded to generally conform to the shape of the foot and its shape dictates the general shape of the footwear. Inner shell  210  further provides the supporting structural element of the footwear. As previously described, variations of inner shell  210 &#39;s wall thickness, variations of materials, or combination of two or more materials are methods of changing and adapting the physical properties of inner shell  210  and of the footwear so constructed for its intended use. 
     It must be understood that the general outline of inner shell  210  may take on a variety of shapes such as that of a boot as depicted by the dotted lines  211 . Skin assembly  200  may or may not conform to the boot outline  211 . As a variant, skin assembly may cover only partially inner shell  210  leaving portions of inner shell  210  exposed, giving the footwear a different look. Boot outline  211  may be a hiking boot or a work boot. In the later instance, a steel toe cap would be provided. 
     Sole  220  is substantially flat and adapted to accommodate a variety of outsoles. The Outsole of the footwear may feature spikes for football, baseball or soccer shoes or studs for golf or track and field shoes. Sole  220  may feature apertures provided to insert metal or plastic studs or spikes. 
     As shown in FIGS. 13 and 14, skin assembly  200  is positioned over inner shell  210  after a layer of glue has been applied to either the inner surface of skin assembly  200  or to the outer surface of inner shell  210  or both. The general shape of skin assembly  200  ensures a good alignment between the two components. The alignment accuracy may increase with positioning pins as shown in FIG.  6 . Other means of alignment are also possible as previously mentioned. Once skin assembly  200  is in place, pressure is applied to the entire surface of skin assembly  200  as depicted by arrows  70 A and  70 B thereby solidly gluing the two components together. A clamping apparatus  100  as shown in FIG. 9 can be used to provide the necessary pressure. The shell-supporting member  108  and the pressure pad  120  simply have to be modified to accommodate the specific shape of inner shell  210 . 
     As shown in FIGS. 15 and 16, lace eyelets  208  are punched into the assembly of skin  200  and inner shell  220  along each edge  218 . A toe box  230  and a tongue  231  or preferably, a toe-box/tongue assembly  232 , which covers the frontal portion of the footwear  250  are installed. Toe-box,tongue assembly  232  is of course, manufactured separately and brought to the production line at the end of the production cycle only. Tongue  231  is sewn or glued to toe-box  230 . Toe-box  230  is glued to the upper frontal portion of sole  220  and can also be glued or sewn to the frontal portions  235  of each quarter  203 / 214  and  204 / 215 . Finally, a pair of outsoles  222  and  223 , which are ground engaging supporting elements, are affixed to the bottom of footwear  250 . As shown in FIG. 16, a single outsole  225  extending the entire length of footwear  250  can be used as well. 
     The above description of preferred embodiments should not be interpreted in a limiting manner since other variations, modifications and refinements are possible within the spirit and scope of the present invention. The scope of the invention is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.