Abstract:
A novel setting for a gemstone comprises a plurality of supports projecting from a setting fixture and engaging the girdle of a gemstone and suspending the gemstone within the setting. Retention pressure is applied to a sufficient level to retain the gemstone within the setting fixture. In one embodiment, a setting of the present invention uses spring bias to generate the retention pressure for retention of the gemstone.

Description:
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS  
       [0001]     Not applicable.  
       STATEMENT REGARDING FEDERALLY SPONSORED RESEARCH OR DEVELOPMENT  
       [0002]     Not applicable.  
       BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION  
       [0003]     The present invention relates to settings for gemstones in jewelry. More particularly, the present invention comprises a novel suspension setting that is unique in retaining gemstones, glass lenses, watch lenses and similar delicate items that are to be retained or held.  
         [0004]     The setting of gemstones in jewelry items has been an age-old concern in the industry. The problem begins with the gemstone itself which is fragile and does not suffer unbalanced tension loading as would be the case for any crystalline structure. Thus the techniques that have developed over time tend to favor approaches that capture the gemstone rather than grip it in an affirmative fashion. A prong setting does capture the stone and allows it stone to be retained without imposing any tension on the stone itself Prong settings, or claw settings as they are sometimes known, are the most popular settings for diamonds and similar stones. They have the advantage of allowing more of the stone to be exposed than in some other types of setting techniques, but they do also possess some drawbacks. Prong settings can catch on fabrics and clothes, they also tend to loosen over time.  
         [0005]     An example of a prong setting may be seen in  FIG. 1  where the ring  10  includes the ring body  12  and the prongs  14 . The prongs each include the prong base  16 , the prong top  18  and the prong notch  20 . The gemstone in this instance is a round stone  30  that is cut with certain features known in the art, including the girdle  32 , facets  34  and with an exposed stone bottom  36 . The stone is round in shape in this case which means that the prongs have to engage the stone at the girdle. Four prongs are used in this instance (although three points are sufficient for retaining a stone) and the tops extend above and slightly over the girdle of the stone. In this way, the stone is clasped or held both above and below the girdle. A tight grip is not essential for the stone to be retained in this fashion, nor would it be desirable, but the prongs must close around the stone well enough to prevent it from slipping out from the setting. Even though the prong setting is generally thought of as being desired in the trade since it exposes the stone more so than other types of settings, one can see that the stone remains partially obscured by a portion of the prongs which necessarily follows from the way the prongs function.  
         [0006]     As will be seen, round gemstones present a different set of problems when it comes to settings, as opposed to stones that are cut in rectangular or square shapes. The circumference of the stone, taken at the girdle, is the only point where any leverage is obtained for mounting purposes. This is also the point where tension loads can affect the stone the most. Many times, jewelers apply too much tension when completing the mounting of a stone in a prong or claw setting and the stone fractures. Techniques have been developed to assist in gauging the tension or for adding more precision to the closing of the prongs about the stone, nonetheless there is still a great deal of variability in the size of stones and the types of cuts they present. Prongs tend to be a “one size fits all” type of mounting and other than through the use of brute force there is no adjustment available of the setting to the stone, at least not in a way that can easily accommodate the variations in size and in configuration.  
         [0007]     Examples of square gemstone settings in the prior art include the Mino invention (U.S. Pat. No. 6,260,384) which uses multiple prongs arrayed around a gemstone to hold it in place. The Mino concept is shown, in part, in  FIG. 2  where the ring  10  includes the ring body  12  and the prongs  40 . The prongs each further include the base  42 , the top  44 , and the faceted notch  46 . The gemstone  50  is square cut and includes a girdle  52  and facets  54 . In Mino, the prongs engage the stone at the four corners. The notch located in each of the prongs, roughly matches the geometry of a corner of a gemstone sized for the setting. The stone may be oriented in the setting and then the prongs (or prong if three are preset) are forced into a position that secures all four corners of the stone. Much like the example above, the girdle is held from both above and below but done so at the extreme part of each corner. The result is a setting that seemingly exposes more of the stone in the setting and which Mino would assert is a very secure and efficient method for retaining the stone.  
         [0008]     Notwithstanding the Mino approach, the setting method taught is still very dependent on the consistency of the stone size and type of cut. Variations in stones can easily transcend the ability of the setting to perform thus reducing the utility of the Mino concept. As is the case for the prior art setting described above, both approaches are limited in terms of handling much variation in the size of the stones to be installed in a particular piece of jewelry. The architecture of the traditional settings necessarily precludes any ability to be able to adjust each setting for a wide variation of stone sizes, meaning that multiple sizes of settings are needed to adequately address the range of gemstones that may be desired in settings.  
         [0009]     Other mechanical techniques are known for retaining gemstones in jewelry, including the use of channel constructions or parts with grooved faces that engage the stone and hold it in place. Examples of this include Muller (U.S. Pat. No. 5,419,159) and Vitau (U.S. Pat. No. 4,292,818) for instance. These approaches require substantial structure, as does the prong or claw setting, near the stone in order to retain the stone sufficiently. In some cases there have been attempts to mount stones using adhesives with the obvious problems associated with the development of a strong bond between the stone and the setting as well as the loss of exposure of the stone as a whole. One interesting approach was taught by Frelich (U.S. Pat. No. 5,758,517) where a gemstone is placed into a wax-like matrix for retention in a setting.  
         [0010]     A so-called “invisible” setting is known and has been marketed by Van Cleef &amp; Arpel. The setting accommodates a number of stones that are arrayed close together with no apparent hardware. In actuality, each stone is cut and select with precision so as to nest in between adjacent stones, and grooves are cut into the stone on the underside (pavilion) which then allows engagement by a wire netting. The desirability of this setting is in the fact that the stone are maximally exposed on the top and the bottom portion of the stone is largely exposed, which allows light through the stone showing off the quality and color to best advantage.  
         [0011]     The goal in the trade has been to achieve maximum exposure of the gemstone while at the same time ensuring its retention in a setting. It is also desirable to have a setting that will not snag or catch on clothing and the like, which further reduces the security of the stone as well as causing untold aggravation.  
       SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION  
       [0012]     A new gemstone setting and method for setting a gemstone in accordance with the present invention comprises a novel suspension setting for suspending a gemstone. More particularly, a suspension setting includes a plurality of supports emanating from a setting fixture where each of said supports includes a contact portion and a body portion. The contact portion of the present invention engages and retains the girdle edge of a gemstone. The contact portion of each support is positioned to retain the gemstone in a fixed position with minimal obstruction of the top or bottom of the stone itself  
         [0013]     The present invention also includes a version where the contact portions of the supports are biased by spring tension for engagement and retention of the gemstone. The spring tension applies a bias to at least one of such contact portions, or in the alternate, it may be applied to all contact portions of the supports. Where appropriate, one or more contact portions may engage and retain a gemstone in a setting acting in opposition to tension applied by contact portions that are under spring bias.  
         [0014]     Another version of the present invention includes contact portions that are adjusted into engagement and retention of a gemstone by threaded advancement of the support. The contact portions remain in an orientation to engage and retain the girdle edge of a gemstone while the threaded engagement advances sufficiently to apply pressure competent to engage and retain the gemstone.  
         [0015]     A suspension setting of the present invention includes supports that can be arranged to engage and retain gemstones of various shapes, not just round cut or square cut.  
         [0016]     The suspension setting of the present invention allows for enhanced exposure of the top and bottom of a gemstone in a jewelry application. A novel aspect of gemstone presentation is thus achieved when the suspension setting is allowed to gather light in from both the top and bottom sides of a gemstone increasing it&#39;s brilliance and heightening it&#39;s appearance. In one embodiment, a gemstone may uniquely be set-off from the setting fixture generating the illusion that the stone is floating, or suspended, within the particular piece of jewelry.  
         [0017]     One method for setting a gemstone in the present invention includes the steps of: mounting a sufficient number of supports in a setting fixture, positioning a gemstone in a position to be engaged by the contact portions of the supports, advancing the supports to preliminary contact with the gemstone, engaging with gemstone with sufficient retention pressure to ensure the stone will be retained, fixing the supports within the setting fixture for the stabilization of the retention pressure and lastly, cosmetically finishing the supports for a pleasing appearance.  
         [0018]     These and other attributes and features of the present invention and all of its embodiments will be further discussed in detail below. 
     
    
     BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS  
       [0019]      FIG. 1  is a perspective view of a round cut gemstone in a setting in a ring as would be found in the prior art.  
         [0020]      FIG. 2  is a perspective view of a square cut gemstone in a setting in a ring as would be found in the prior art.  
         [0021]      FIG. 3  is a perspective view of a round cut gemstone in a suspension setting of the present invention as used in a ring.  
         [0022]      FIG. 4  is a top plan view of a ring with a suspension setting of the present invention prior to fixing and finishing of the supports.  
         [0023]      FIG. 5  is a top plan view of the ring and suspension setting of  FIG. 4  where the supports have been fixed and finished.  
         [0024]      FIG. 6  is a side elevational view of the ring and suspension setting of  FIG. 5  showing the gemstone in engaged and retained condition (in phantom) and with supports in the fixed and finished condition.  
         [0025]      FIG. 7  is a bottom view of section A-A of  FIG. 6  showing the bottom side of a gemstone in a suspension setting of the present invention.  
         [0026]      FIG. 8  is a side cross sectional view of a support of the present invention with a spring biased contact portion where the contact portion is in a compressed condition as would be the case if it were engaging and retaining a gemstone.  
         [0027]      FIG. 9  is a side cross sectional view of the support of  FIG. 8  where the spring biased contact portion is in the released condition as would be the case if it were not in engagement nor retaining a gemstone.  
         [0028]      FIG. 10  is a side cross sectional view of a support of the present invention with a contact portion that is orientable and alignable with the girdle edge of a gemstone when advanced into an engagement and retention position in a setting fixture.  
         [0029]      FIG. 11  is a side cross sectional view of a portion of the setting fixture of  FIG. 6  showing the engagement of a gemstone by one type of support of the present invention.  
         [0030]      FIG. 12  is a side cross sectional view of a portion of the setting fixture of  FIG. 6  showing another type of support that engages a gemstone, specifically a support with a contact portion that is orientable and alignable with the girdle of a stone.  
         [0031]      FIG. 13  is a side cross sectional view of a portion of the setting fixture of  FIG. 6  showing another type of support that engages a gemstone, specifically a support with a contact portion that has a spring bias, where the support and contact portion are in the released or free mode relative to the girdle of a gemstone.  
         [0032]      FIG. 14  is a side cross sectional view of portion of the setting fixture of  FIG. 13  showing the support and the contact portion in the engaged and retained condition relative to the girdle of a gemstone.  
         [0033]      FIG. 15  is a front elevational view of a pendant with a round cut gemstone fixed by a suspension setting of the present invention.  
         [0034]      FIG. 16  is a perspective view of a stickpin with a round cut gemstone fixed by a suspension setting of the present invention.  
         [0035]      FIG. 17  is a top plan view of a stickpin employing another version of a suspension setting for engaging and retaining a round cut gemstone.  
         [0036]      FIG. 18  is a perspective view of the stickpin of  FIG. 17  showing the suspension setting of the present invention engaging and retaining a round cut gemstone.  
     
    
     DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS  
       [0037]     A new gemstone setting of the present invention represents an improvement on the prior art in many ways, especially though with respect to the ultimate goal of exposing as much of the gemstone in a setting as is possible while providing a secure means for retaining the stone in place. Other considerations include the need to provide a setting that will minimize the potential for snagging on articles of clothing or to provide a setting that will not easily allow the gemstone to work loose. It is also important to be able to use a method that is not too complex or that requires special tools when placing a gemstone in a setting.  
         [0038]     Turning now to  FIG. 3 , a ring  10  is shown with ring body  12 , prong(s)  60 , prong base(s)  62 , and prong top(s)  64 . In this instance, the gemstone  70  is a round cut variety and has a girdle  72 , and facets  74  with a bottom  76 . In this view, the gemstone is suspended by the present invention (not shown) with the resultant effect that the stone itself is exposed more than would be the case with the prior art settings. Comparison of this view to  FIG. 1  reveals this fact and it tends to present a mounting for the gemstone that is counter-intuitive, i.e., it appears to be only lightly retained in the setting fixture as compared to the prior art examples. An aspect of the suspension setting disclosed herein is that it has great utility and can be used in many settings that resemble standard jewelry settings yet it still provides the benefits of a suspended setting.  
         [0039]     Examples of suspension settings include a version shown in  FIGS. 4 and 5 . In this instance, the ring  10  includes the ring body  12 , and the suspension fixture  80  with a halo  82  and suspension support(s)  84 . In  FIG. 4 , the suspension supports extend out beyond the halo while the opposing ends actually contact and engage the gemstone  70  at the girdle  72 . In contrast,  FIG. 5  shows the suspension supports as being truncated and not visible beyond the outer periphery of the halo. The suspension supports have been trimmed in fact as part of the finishing of the jewelry piece and the part of the halo where the suspension is inserted is also finished off to conceal any points of penetration. The end result is a cosmetically pleasing piece that has a gemstone suspended in the center of a setting fixture (halo).  
         [0040]      FIGS. 6 and 7  reveal more about the halo type of suspension setting. In  FIG. 6  in addition to the other features previously described, there is shown the halo sidewall  86  and the contact portion  88  of the suspension support. A view of the halo portion of the setting fixture taken at “A-A” is shown in  FIG. 7 . In this view, the bottom  76  of the gemstone is seen with the facets  74 . The suspension support  84  with the contact portion  88  is seen as engaging the girdle  72  of the gemstone. This view demonstrates the unique appearance of the suspension setting of the present invention especially when combined with the views of  FIGS. 4 and 5 . The gemstone is uniquely positioned so as to appear to be “floating” within the halo fixture while all the time it is fully engaged and secured by the contact with the suspension supports.  
         [0041]     Versions of the suspension supports  84  of the present invention are shown in  FIGS. 8, 9  and  10 .  FIGS. 8 and 9  are the same embodiment and show the suspension supports in an engaged (compressed) condition and in a disengaged (released) condition respectively. More specifically, the suspension support  84  includes the suspension end  90 , the suspension body  92 , the suspension front  94 , the suspension rear  96  and the threaded portion  98 . In the central portion of the suspension body is the recess  100  which houses the spring  102 . The suspension end  90  rides within the recess and meets the suspension body  92  at the interface  104  where the corresponding end  106  of the suspension end  90  contacts it, presenting with a bevel face  118  that corresponds with the angled and beveled face of the interface.. The suspension end also includes the shaft  108  which is fitted into the recess and extends as far as the shaft end  116 . The recess terminates in the recess end  110 . The suspension body includes the driver slot  112  which is compatible with the receipt of a screwdriver or other driver means. In between the suspension end and the suspension body is the suspension clearance  114 . The importance of this will become clearer below as the method for fixing the gemstone in the present embodiment is explained in more detail.  
         [0042]     In the present embodiment of the suspension support described above, the spring provides a bias force that urges the suspension end outward from the suspension body. This bias is transmitted to the contact portion  88  of the suspension end which is the part that actually engages the gemstone at the girdle. Thus the bias acts directly on the gemstone at this connection and is the primary force responsible for retention of the gemstone within the setting fixture. As may be appreciated, the suspension support of the present embodiment projects a biasing effect on the gemstone for engagement and retention, although it may be used in combination with static suspension mounts as well. An example of a static mount could be akin to one of the prongs shown in FIGS.  1  or  2  as used in the prior art. When used in conjunction with a suspension support of the present invention, the static mount serves as an engagement point that is not adjusted or moved in relation to the setting of the stone in the jewelry item. Instead the suspension supports that may be arrayed around the stone are brought into contact with the girdle and the appropriate retention pressure is brought to bear on the stone and as against the opposing static mount.  
         [0043]      FIG. 10  reveals a suspension support  84  with a suspension end  120 , suspension body  122 , suspension front  124 , suspension rear  126  and threaded portion  128 . The suspension center  130  discloses the hollow longitudinal core of the suspension support. The suspension support also includes the interface  134  and the end  136  of the suspension end  120 . The suspension end also includes the shaft  138 , with suspension end facets  140 , and the interface extension  142 .. The suspension end, in ways similar to the suspension support of the embodiment shown in  FIGS. 8 and 9 , engages and retains the girdle edge of a gemstone. In this case though, the retention pressure that is applied results solely from the advancement of the suspension support within the setting fixture and does not rely upon a biased spring for releasable tensioning. More specifically, driving the suspension body within a setting fixture that has opposing threads, allows the suspension end to be brought into contact with the girdle edge of a gemstone in a suspension setting. The suspension end is free to rotate within the suspension body thus keeping the contact portion in constant alignment with the girdle edge as would be required. The suspension body can be driven in to apply as much (or as little) retention pressure as is desired. This is important since the over application of pressure can lead to fracturing of the gemstone, one of the problems found in the prior art where gemstone settings do not carry any precision whatsoever when it comes to gauging retention pressure. As disclosed herein, both versions of the suspension supports allow the jeweler to make fine adjustments to the retention pressure without unduly risking damage to the stone and without unnecessarily allowing for looseness in the final product.  
         [0044]     Illustrations as to how the suspension supports work are shown in  FIGS. 11, 12 ,  13  and  14 . The example provided is a “halo” type setting although it is understood that the supports may be used in other types of setting architectures as well. The first mode for consideration is the suspension setting of  FIG. 11  where the suspension support  84  enters the halo sidewall  86  through the suspension portal  150 . Disposed within the suspension portal are the associated threads  152  which correspond to opposing threads on the suspension support. In  FIG. 11  there is no segmentation between the suspension end and the suspension body which requires that the support be driven, through use of the driver slot  112 , to a position near where the girdle edge of the gemstone will be anticipated to be positioned. The final turns would be made with the objective of keeping the contact portion  88  in alignment with the girdle edge. This support then acts like a static mount, similar to those discussed above.  
         [0045]     The suspension system shown in  FIG. 12  relies upon the type of support taught in  FIG. 10 . In this case the suspension end  160  is segmented and independently rotateable from the suspension body  162  and about the interface  164 . The support in this case can e driven to the point of engagement with the girdle and the contact portion  88  remains aligned and oriented correspondingly. The application of the proper amount of retention pressure can be made by “feel” or it would be possible to gauge this through the driver slot  112 . In any event, the support of the present invention provides a unique means for setting a stone within a jewelry item with heretofore unknown accommodation for variation and with some degree and precision of adjustment.  
         [0046]     Turning now to  FIGS. 13 and 14 , the suspension support employing a spring bias as was described above in  FIGS. 8 and 9 , is shown in the engaged or compressed condition. More specifically, the suspension end  170  and suspension body  172  are interconnected by mean of the suspension shaft  174 . It is understood that a spring is located within the suspension body and is urging the suspension end towards the girdle. There are corresponding faces, the end interface  176  and the body interface  178  that can come into contact if the spring “bottoms out” when fully compressed In order to seek and maintain a pre-set tension, it would be preferred to keep the suspension end and body from becoming fully compressed at which point the tension on the girdle as exerted by the contact portion is no longer dynamic but is a function of the position to which the suspension support is driven in a given setting fixture. Reference to both  FIGS. 13 and 14  reveals that the final position of the support in the illustration does maintain a small amount of clearance between the end interface and the body interface for this very reason.  
         [0047]     The example set forth in  FIG. 14  also shows the support as being truncated to conform with the cosmetics of the halo setting. Once the support is in position, the need for the portion of the suspension body extending out from the setting is eliminated. The jeweler, using skills known in the art, can crop that portion of the support and then provide a cosmetic cover  180  over it. The result is a suspension setting that controllably retains the gemstone with a predetermined amount of tension and with a minimal amount of visual obstruction. It is also a feature of the suspension setting of the present embodiment that after the completion of the setting of a gemstone in this fashion, the suspension end may be forcibly compressed to the point where it bottoms out. This would, of course, relieve the pressure on the girdle and if this is done with a sufficient number of supports it would allow the stone to be released from the setting altogether. The benefits arising from this embodiment include the ability to change stones or to allow stones to be removed for examination and/or cleaning.  
         [0048]      FIG. 15  discloses a pendant  190  with pendant loop  192  and fixed with a suspension setting of the present invention. The gemstone  70  is retained in the manner discussed above. The uniqueness of the suspension setting allows the gemstone to be displayed in a way that has been unknown until now.  
         [0049]      FIG. 16  reveals a pin setting  200  with pin setting prongs  202 , prong top  204 , prong bottom  206  and the pin  208 . The suspension setting is used in conjunction with the prongs in this version and although the supports are not very visible in such an application, the benefit of minimal obstruction is still obtained as compared to the prior art settings of this type.  
         [0050]      FIGS. 17 and 18  show yet another pin setting  200  with associated prongs  202 , prong top  204  and prong base  206 . The prongs are set off from the gemstone  70  in this instance which results in a striking new appearance. The stone would appear to “float” within the central part of the setting fixture as it is retained by the suspension  80 , specifically at the contact portion  88  that engages the girdle  72 . This example is provided to show yet another way of practicing the invention and the great breadth in jewelry design that is available with a suspension setting.  
         [0051]     The suspension setting may be used in many different types of jewelry settings, including some that are conventional mountings that need only minor modifications to accept the supports of the present invention. It is also understood that the suspension setting is very adaptable to different sized and differently shaped stones which increases it&#39;s utility greatly over other types of mountings known in the art.  
         [0052]     The ability to control the retention pressure is a benefit of the suspension setting that eliminates some of the problems experienced in the prior art. Some settings require a measure of brute force to close the tops of prongs, for instance, over the edge of a faceted gemstone. Slight miscalculation can result in either the fracture of the stone or in the alternate, in the loss of a stone in a loose sitting fixture. The usage of the spring bias can be calibrated to generate a specific retention pressure, one that will not breach the yield strength of the gemstone, and which will at the same time provide for secure engagement and retention in the particular jewelry product. Given the spring biased embodiment of the suspension support, it is also known that this can greatly reduce the amount of time that would be needed to fabricate a particular piece. The jewelry need only have some fixtures prepared in advance knowing that virtually any gemstone that a customer may select could be installed easily and efficiently. The suspension setting would reduce the number of stock keeping units for mountings that might be usually held in inventory as well.  
         [0053]     The method for installation is dependent upon the subject stone and the particular kind of setting architecture. It would be possible for a customer to have a peat shaped, or rectangular shaped, or virtually any other type of shaped stone mounted in a particular product so long as the girdle is available for engagement by the suspension setting. As described above, the supports are brought into position near the girdle with the contact portions actually touching and finally retaining the stone in the desired position. Depending on the type of support selected, the gemstone might be replaceable for purposes as pedestrian as matching colors in a ensemble. Such usage greatly enhances the utility of the suspension setting as a fashion accessory.  
         [0054]     Other variations of the suspension setting may be understood. It would be possible, albeit less preferred, for the supports to be free of any threaded engagement but to be fitted into place with the appropriate amount of tension applied and then soldered or sealed in place by way of techniques known to those skilled in the art of jewelry manufacturing. In such a use, the contact portion of the support could be part of one integral support and not segmented as is the case with other embodiment of the invention.  
         [0055]     The supports may themselves form up a decorative portion of the jewelry product. Reference is made to  FIG. 10  where the suspension end is shown with an octagonal circumference. This may be sported by the setting fixture as part of an overall appearance that is desired for the particular piece of jewelry. In the case of that suspension support, the decorative portion extends out from the fixture and the interface extension  142  serves as a self-fitting feature when it seats fully or partially into the corresponding portal in the setting fixture. More elaborate design treatments are possible and are left to the imagination and whims of jewelry designers.  
         [0056]     Multiple settings of the present invention may also be deployed in a given article. There is nothing in the teachings that would prohibit or limit the usage of two or more gemstone mountings of the kind taught herein, the specific architecture for the fixture being a matter for one skilled in the art.  
         [0057]     The features and attributes of the suspension setting of the present invention as taught within this application are meant to be illustrative of the varied uses to which the invention may be put without unnecessarily limiting the scope of the concept.