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Human: The gas gauge in my 2001 Sea Ray 190BR has never worked right as long as I've owned the boat. It has always read lower than it should, never quite reaching the Full mark. I'm pretty sure the tank is full because I can't squeeze any more gas into it. Recently, the gauge stopped working completely. Now it hangs just above empty, regardless of how much fuel is in the tank. I probably need a new gauge or possibly a new sending unit. How can I determine the problem using a multimeter? Can I buy only a gauge or just a sending unit? Are they pretty standard? Will different brands generally work with each other? How much trouble to install a sending unit inside the plastic fuel tank? I'm a pretty good electronics tech and a pretty good mechanic, but not real confident digging into a fuel tank. Assistant:

Not sure on your particular boat. However, 9 times out of 10 it will be your sending unit in the tank. There should be an access hatch on your deck. Typically, it's a 6" round pop-out hatch. Open it up. The sending unit will be right under the hatch. The sending unit is typically secured on the top of the tank with 6 small bolts. Disconnect the connectors, unscrew the bolts and gently remove the sending unit. Try to save the gasket. If it is a metal arm on a float, note the amount of throw from the highest point to the lowest point so that you can set up the replacement properly. Some sending units will not have an arm, but rather a float that moves up and down inside a sleeve. The principal is the same. You can test the sending unit by hooking up an ohm meter to the lead, or leads. If only one lead, the base place will be the ground. As the arm is moved up and down, you should see the resistance change proportionally. If you don't see that the sender is bad. Make sure that the float is not damaged or soaked. Sometimes they just stick in one position due to corrosion. Replacements are all over the Internet. The last time I replaced mine I noted that West Marine typically carries most types of replacements.

Not sure on your particular boat. However, 9 times out of 10 it will be your sending unit in the tank. There should be an access hatch on your deck. Typically, it's a 6" round pop-out hatch. Open it up. The sending unit will be right under the hatch. The sending unit is typically secured on the top of the tank with 6 small bolts. Disconnect the connectors, unscrew the bolts and gently remove the sending unit. Try to save the gasket. If it is a metal arm on a float, note the amount of throw from the highest point to the lowest point so that you can set up the replacement properly. Some sending units will not have an arm, but rather a float that moves up and down inside a sleeve. The principal is the same. You can test the sending unit by hooking up an ohm meter to the lead, or leads. If only one lead, the base place will be the ground. As the arm is moved up and down, you should see the resistance change proportionally. If you don't see that the sender is bad. Make sure that the float is not damaged or soaked. Sometimes they just stick in one position due to corrosion. Replacements are all over the Internet. The last time I replaced mine I noted that West Marine typically carries most types of replacements.

great post.. keep sharing ..

Human: The gas gauge in my 2001 Sea Ray 190BR has never worked right as long as I've owned the boat. It has always read lower than it should, never quite reaching the Full mark. I'm pretty sure the tank is full because I can't squeeze any more gas into it. Recently, the gauge stopped working completely. Now it hangs just above empty, regardless of how much fuel is in the tank. I probably need a new gauge or possibly a new sending unit. How can I determine the problem using a multimeter? Can I buy only a gauge or just a sending unit? Are they pretty standard? Will different brands generally work with each other? How much trouble to install a sending unit inside the plastic fuel tank? I'm a pretty good electronics tech and a pretty good mechanic, but not real confident digging into a fuel tank. Assistant:

you can test the gauge by removing the wire from the sending unit. apply power to the gauge and take a 240 ohm resistor and connect it between the S terminal on the gauge and GND...gauge should show E. do the same thing with a 33 ohm resistor and it should show F. If that's good, I'd suggest repeating the tests with the resistors at the sending unit. In other words, if the gauge proves usable, make sure the wiring from the gauge to the tank is sound...if that works, the sending unit is all that's left. FWIW, fuel gauges on boats are notoriously inaccurate...my experience is if you need to calibrate the sending unit, worry about the E side more then the F end...

you can test the gauge by removing the wire from the sending unit. apply power to the gauge and take a 240 ohm resistor and connect it between the S terminal on the gauge and GND...gauge should show E. do the same thing with a 33 ohm resistor and it should show F. If that's good, I'd suggest repeating the tests with the resistors at the sending unit. In other words, if the gauge proves usable, make sure the wiring from the gauge to the tank is sound...if that works, the sending unit is all that's left. FWIW, fuel gauges on boats are notoriously inaccurate...my experience is if you need to calibrate the sending unit, worry about the E side more then the F end...

You should have done your research before open it up. With that said the relay is a very simple device. It's just a coil and a few contacts. If it clicks that means it receives the input signal. If there is no power coming out then there could be 2 things. The first would be to check your main power feed. If the power feed is there at the relay then the contacts inside the relay are dirty. You should have 2 5-prongs relays. One is for trim down and one for trim up. They both work together. The reason for the 5 prongs relay is that there is only one trim motor with 2 wires (example A and B). To go up A is + and B is -. To go down A is - and B is +. Each relay will have one output and that output feeds one wire of the trim motor. These output will rest at - all the time. When you trim up it will activate only one relay and that relay will switch the output from - to +. This will complete the circuit and will activate the motor. Same thing with trim down. The other relay will get activated instead. GL

Human: The gas gauge in my 2001 Sea Ray 190BR has never worked right as long as I've owned the boat. It has always read lower than it should, never quite reaching the Full mark. I'm pretty sure the tank is full because I can't squeeze any more gas into it. Recently, the gauge stopped working completely. Now it hangs just above empty, regardless of how much fuel is in the tank. I probably need a new gauge or possibly a new sending unit. How can I determine the problem using a multimeter? Can I buy only a gauge or just a sending unit? Are they pretty standard? Will different brands generally work with each other? How much trouble to install a sending unit inside the plastic fuel tank? I'm a pretty good electronics tech and a pretty good mechanic, but not real confident digging into a fuel tank. Assistant:

There are several videos on U-Tube that address trouble shooting and replacement of the proper component. They are quite detailed with good explanations.

There are several videos on U-Tube that address trouble shooting and replacement of the proper component. They are quite detailed with good explanations.

Thanks Chawk-man,see that what I was thinking just by looking at it,as Cheif says I agree it would make it,but for 75.00 a welding shop will extend it,materials included. it probly would not hurt extending it for the price! I can have it extended a foot and a half or go to 2 ft. same cost.How far would you extend it to? thanks for any input! yes I am a worry wart,but I just want to be self for ourselves and other people on the road.The welding shop that I know very well and have had them do welding before said I can bring it in next Monday so I need to deside how long to extend it. oh by the way they will be welding it with one solid piece a 3"x4" tube

Human: I have a 2001 Yamaha 70LTRA 2 stroke outboard. Last fall it quit charging my battery. I did some research and thought the rectifier was the issue. I replaced it with a china knockoff. When I ran it for the first time this it still wasn’t charging. I then bought an OEM Yamaha rectifier and installed it. When testing in my driveway with muffs the volt meter went to 14 volts while running so I assumed it was fixed. However, when on the lake a couple days later the highest I could get was around 12.5 volts…which is just a hair over what the battery voltage was when first turning the key on. I tried turning off all my fishing graphs to remove any draw and that didn’t help either. The battery is fairly new and ran my equipment all day even without the charging system. Is something else the issue? Possibly the charging coil or stator? I should be getting around 14 volts output when the motor is running. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Assistant:

usually, yhe basic outboard charging circuit wont get up to 14VDC until tje rngine RPM goes well above idle... with a good battery and clean connections, the rectifier/regulator and the stator coils are about all thats left....a short time diagnosing the problem can usually identify the malfumctioning part...

usually, yhe basic outboard charging circuit wont get up to 14VDC until tje rngine RPM goes well above idle... with a good battery and clean connections, the rectifier/regulator and the stator coils are about all thats left....a short time diagnosing the problem can usually identify the malfumctioning part...

johnnygjr said: deepsea,I was referring clayster to look in manual for ideas on his issue,I was not indicating there was any pressure relief valves in my post on that engine. Sorry for the confusion. Click to expand... No worries. I personally don't think there is any "pressure relief valve" on that engine. I'm betting it has a small pressure release port drilled in each cylinder near the main exhaust ports. Those small ports serve to reduce compression pressure at lower turnover/cranking RPM and provide some relief for easier pull starting. If it was an old engine and he got it to fire and it smoked alot perhaps he brioke lose some carbon that caused one or more of those ports that may have been 80 or 90% clogged to clog 100%. I looked at the schematics and didn't see any ports drawn on them from the angle of the schematic but that doesn't mean they aren't there. I recommend he contact Sim Yamaha and ask of that engine has pressure relief ports in addition to the main exhaust ports before wrenching that far into it to see for himself... Then again, if he has the time there's no better way to figure out an engien than to start taking it apart!

Human: Good evening everyone. I purchased my first boat a few weeks ago. It’s a 1985 fisher 16 foot with a 40hp mariner 2 stroke. The serial is 40el 6e9l418298. I understand it’s a 40c model twin carb with out auto mix. I have rebuilt the carbs and done a bit of other work on the motor and got it running good. The problem is the key does not shut the motor off and I have to pull the emergency kill cord. I pulled the ignition switch out and see only 3 wires are hooked up. There is a white wire coming out of the kill switch and pig tails but isn’t connected to anything. From hours of searching the web I figured it’s the kill circuit wire. It I touch it to ground it kills the motor. I have been searching for a replacement switch with new keys but all the new ones have multi colored wires that don’t match mine and no oem parts are available. I have attached some pictures. The key is not a push to choke since there is a switch below for choke. I’m assuming it’s factory this way because it says Mariner. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Assistant:

If you haven't got it figured out on your own. Check these notes. Find the posts that are grounded with ignition in off position only. Make sure there is no power to these posts in ANY position, and they must be grounded ONLY in off position. Then connect your white wire to that terminal/post. Tim

If you haven't got it figured out on your own. Check these notes. Find the posts that are grounded with ignition in off position only. Make sure there is no power to these posts in ANY position, and they must be grounded ONLY in off position. Then connect your white wire to that terminal/post. Tim

Ayuh,.... As far as I know, the 4.3l Always has had the T-Bolt ignition,.... T-Bolt IV, then T-Bolt V,....

Human: Good evening everyone. I purchased my first boat a few weeks ago. It’s a 1985 fisher 16 foot with a 40hp mariner 2 stroke. The serial is 40el 6e9l418298. I understand it’s a 40c model twin carb with out auto mix. I have rebuilt the carbs and done a bit of other work on the motor and got it running good. The problem is the key does not shut the motor off and I have to pull the emergency kill cord. I pulled the ignition switch out and see only 3 wires are hooked up. There is a white wire coming out of the kill switch and pig tails but isn’t connected to anything. From hours of searching the web I figured it’s the kill circuit wire. It I touch it to ground it kills the motor. I have been searching for a replacement switch with new keys but all the new ones have multi colored wires that don’t match mine and no oem parts are available. I have attached some pictures. The key is not a push to choke since there is a switch below for choke. I’m assuming it’s factory this way because it says Mariner. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Assistant:

Thank you. The new switch shows up tommorow and I will verify the post has no power and is at ground for the white wire. This switch in the picture doesn’t have any that go to ground when the key is off. I’m not sure why but it is severely worn out. Tommorow night I will get it wired up after work and post how I wired it. Thank you everybody for the responses.

Thank you. The new switch shows up tommorow and I will verify the post has no power and is at ground for the white wire. This switch in the picture doesn’t have any that go to ground when the key is off. I’m not sure why but it is severely worn out. Tommorow night I will get it wired up after work and post how I wired it. Thank you everybody for the responses.

There is an issue with the J Blocks (part of the smart Craft wiring). There is an updated data cable that goes between the engines for this issue.

Human: Good evening everyone. I purchased my first boat a few weeks ago. It’s a 1985 fisher 16 foot with a 40hp mariner 2 stroke. The serial is 40el 6e9l418298. I understand it’s a 40c model twin carb with out auto mix. I have rebuilt the carbs and done a bit of other work on the motor and got it running good. The problem is the key does not shut the motor off and I have to pull the emergency kill cord. I pulled the ignition switch out and see only 3 wires are hooked up. There is a white wire coming out of the kill switch and pig tails but isn’t connected to anything. From hours of searching the web I figured it’s the kill circuit wire. It I touch it to ground it kills the motor. I have been searching for a replacement switch with new keys but all the new ones have multi colored wires that don’t match mine and no oem parts are available. I have attached some pictures. The key is not a push to choke since there is a switch below for choke. I’m assuming it’s factory this way because it says Mariner. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Assistant:

So I received the new switch this afternoon. I wired it up using a Yamaha color code diagram to a mariner color code diagram. Everything works perfect as it should. My push to choke, works after bypassing the switch from the factory, and it shuts the motor off when I turn the key off. Thank you everyone for the help and advice. I am on my phone so I can’t upload a picture but I will tomorrow when I get to my computer. This has been a headache since I bought it and now the final piece has been fixed!!!! Thank you all again.

So I received the new switch this afternoon. I wired it up using a Yamaha color code diagram to a mariner color code diagram. Everything works perfect as it should. My push to choke, works after bypassing the switch from the factory, and it shuts the motor off when I turn the key off. Thank you everyone for the help and advice. I am on my phone so I can’t upload a picture but I will tomorrow when I get to my computer. This has been a headache since I bought it and now the final piece has been fixed!!!! Thank you all again.

Lever is free and engages fine, its a 2017 yamaha 4 stroke outboard, i have to pull the lever almost all the way down in order for the boat to move very slow in reverse

Human: Good evening everyone. I purchased my first boat a few weeks ago. It’s a 1985 fisher 16 foot with a 40hp mariner 2 stroke. The serial is 40el 6e9l418298. I understand it’s a 40c model twin carb with out auto mix. I have rebuilt the carbs and done a bit of other work on the motor and got it running good. The problem is the key does not shut the motor off and I have to pull the emergency kill cord. I pulled the ignition switch out and see only 3 wires are hooked up. There is a white wire coming out of the kill switch and pig tails but isn’t connected to anything. From hours of searching the web I figured it’s the kill circuit wire. It I touch it to ground it kills the motor. I have been searching for a replacement switch with new keys but all the new ones have multi colored wires that don’t match mine and no oem parts are available. I have attached some pictures. The key is not a push to choke since there is a switch below for choke. I’m assuming it’s factory this way because it says Mariner. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Assistant:

Great, thanks for coming through with the report. Good job!

Great, thanks for coming through with the report. Good job!

Sorry forgot to add that its a Yamaha 6xo-48206-12-00, after scraping off all the corrosion and removing the plastic insert I found 4 more screws--- as long as I can get the screws out I should be ok. Thanks for your reply, much appreciated

Human: Hello, I'm looking for any information regarding my touchscreen depth alarm interface and how to repair, upgrade, or disable (or operate, in general...) Without any regard to the setting, it goes off repeatedly every five minutes and then you have to clear it if you want it to stop beeping every three seconds. You can’t really use the audio without needing to attend to clearing the alarm so unless you want to sit in the seat, you gotta leave the boat off. There doesn’t seem to be any manual that I can find online that Avalon has yet released that details this particular system. No manual onboard - refers you online via QR code. I tried everything, but I think this needs some kind of firmware upgrade. The functionality of the panel just doesn’t make sense. If you press the button for up it won't go above 0 and once you press the button down if you want to adjust it to say 10 feet you would have to hold the button down for probably what would be 10 minutes while it counts down from 18,000. It doesn’t save after you set it, regardless. Anyone familiar with the issue or the system? Thanks much for taking a look, either way. Assistant:

did you ever find a solution to the alarm issue? I’m having the same issue and Cannot find someone that has a clue how to fix it. (2021 Excalibur ) fernetbreakfast said: Hello, I'm looking for any information regarding my touchscreen depth alarm interface and how to repair, upgrade, or disable (or operate, in general...) Without any regard to the setting, it goes off repeatedly every five minutes and then you have to clear it if you want it to stop beeping every three seconds. You can’t really use the audio without needing to attend to clearing the alarm so unless you want to sit in the seat, you gotta leave the boat off. There doesn’t seem to be any manual that I can find online that Avalon has yet released that details this particular system. No manual onboard - refers you online via QR code. I tried everything, but I think this needs some kind of firmware upgrade. The functionality of the panel just doesn’t make sense. If you press the button for up it won't go above 0 and once you press the button down if you want to adjust it to say 10 feet you would have to hold the button down for probably what would be 10 minutes while it counts down from 18,000. It doesn’t save after you set it, regardless. Anyone familiar with the issue or the system? Thanks much for taking a look, either way. View attachment 26945 Click to expand...

did you ever find a solution to the alarm issue? I’m having the same issue and Cannot find someone that has a clue how to fix it. (2021 Excalibur ) fernetbreakfast said: Hello, I'm looking for any information regarding my touchscreen depth alarm interface and how to repair, upgrade, or disable (or operate, in general...) Without any regard to the setting, it goes off repeatedly every five minutes and then you have to clear it if you want it to stop beeping every three seconds. You can’t really use the audio without needing to attend to clearing the alarm so unless you want to sit in the seat, you gotta leave the boat off. There doesn’t seem to be any manual that I can find online that Avalon has yet released that details this particular system. No manual onboard - refers you online via QR code. I tried everything, but I think this needs some kind of firmware upgrade. The functionality of the panel just doesn’t make sense. If you press the button for up it won't go above 0 and once you press the button down if you want to adjust it to say 10 feet you would have to hold the button down for probably what would be 10 minutes while it counts down from 18,000. It doesn’t save after you set it, regardless. Anyone familiar with the issue or the system? Thanks much for taking a look, either way. View attachment 26945 Click to expand...

This thread is perfect for what I am trying to do on my boat. I have a 1987 37ft Silverton with the wiring torn out right now. My boat was wires very similar to what you mentioned with only one difference I can tell that I have a Bank #1 DC panel running off the Port Engine and a Bank #2 panel running off of the Starboard engine. I was planning to do a three battery setup with two ACRs but I like your diagram a bit better as its fewer parts (one less ACR) and I already have two perko MBSS. My question is on the parallel solenoid that is in my boat currently. Can / Should I just remove that and cap the wires coming from the switch at the helm if I opt to use your two battery diagram attached above? It makes sense that with a low voltage situation the switch may not work anyway. Is it safe to assume that I should move the main Bank #1 Wire feed over to the new HLBB as they currently come from each individual battery?

Human: Hello, I'm looking for any information regarding my touchscreen depth alarm interface and how to repair, upgrade, or disable (or operate, in general...) Without any regard to the setting, it goes off repeatedly every five minutes and then you have to clear it if you want it to stop beeping every three seconds. You can’t really use the audio without needing to attend to clearing the alarm so unless you want to sit in the seat, you gotta leave the boat off. There doesn’t seem to be any manual that I can find online that Avalon has yet released that details this particular system. No manual onboard - refers you online via QR code. I tried everything, but I think this needs some kind of firmware upgrade. The functionality of the panel just doesn’t make sense. If you press the button for up it won't go above 0 and once you press the button down if you want to adjust it to say 10 feet you would have to hold the button down for probably what would be 10 minutes while it counts down from 18,000. It doesn’t save after you set it, regardless. Anyone familiar with the issue or the system? Thanks much for taking a look, either way. Assistant:

I ended up dealing with it for a full summer. Tried calling and emailing Avalon without any response. Finally took it back to the dealer and they managed to get the firmware upgraded. Been working fine since, but squeezing the fix out of Avalon wasn’t an option for me, at least in short order. Might be worth a shot now that the season is over. Has to be a common service dept request at this point. Seacort said: did you ever find a solution to the alarm issue? I’m having the same issue and Cannot find someone that has a clue how to fix it. (2021 Excalibur ) Click to expand...

I ended up dealing with it for a full summer. Tried calling and emailing Avalon without any response. Finally took it back to the dealer and they managed to get the firmware upgraded. Been working fine since, but squeezing the fix out of Avalon wasn’t an option for me, at least in short order. Might be worth a shot now that the season is over. Has to be a common service dept request at this point. Seacort said: did you ever find a solution to the alarm issue? I’m having the same issue and Cannot find someone that has a clue how to fix it. (2021 Excalibur ) Click to expand...

Can't deny the quality build. SOLID ! Starting to believe. I've located the idle speed adjustment and set it to 700 - 750 RPM Where's the low jet / lean / rich adjustment ?

Human: Carburetted 5.7 I/O, formerly Mercruiser, I bought the boat with a gaffed engine electrical harness. I pieced it back together and got it running well, but I've been nagged by a problem with the engine losing power and dying. Been towed back 3 times. The last time was on a troubleshooting run with a tech. Boat was running great but as soon as I used the trim tabs the engine lost power. After that it wouldn't run well at any speed, died, and wouldn't restart and we got the tow of shame back to the marina. After it died, the tech checked and said the coil was hot. I pointed out that the same wire going to the ballast resistor also fed the Mallory breakerless ignition, as well as being tagged off of to run an aftermarket electric fuel pump and other stuff (apparently the trim tabs). All told there are about 4 different wires all tagged onto the hot going to the ballast resistor. The tech said that there is just too much load on the single key-on power wire and the coil is running on low voltage, which is heating up the coil and causing it to shut down. This was proven a previous time it died, when I put a timing light on the coil wire and was getting maybe one spark per rev while trying to start. So my question is, where to put all the other loads to isolate the power to coil and ignition? The wiring diagrams I've seen show a purple wire running to the coil and ignition. Since the engine is a PMC replacement with aftermarket ignition, the wiring has been "adapted", and some wires were combined. The tech suggested I take a tap directly from the battery to a relay for the fuel pump, etc. and actuate it using key-on power. But is there a more OE way the ancillaries should be powered? Assistant:

Depends upon the 'ancillaries'...as a rule, keep the 'engine stuff' isolated from the 'hull stuff'. as far as the 'engine stuff' - your tech's suggestion is viable. On the fuel pump, make sure it has one of the recognized ways to satisfy the shutdown requirements - typically using an oil pressure switch. Also, make sure the ignition switch is in good shape as well as the main harness connector...

Depends upon the 'ancillaries'...as a rule, keep the 'engine stuff' isolated from the 'hull stuff'. as far as the 'engine stuff' - your tech's suggestion is viable. On the fuel pump, make sure it has one of the recognized ways to satisfy the shutdown requirements - typically using an oil pressure switch. Also, make sure the ignition switch is in good shape as well as the main harness connector...

ClassicAQ said: Do you mean is there a particular brand of kit? i.e. yamaha, sierra Click to expand... Yes. As in no made in the people's republic junk.

Human: Carburetted 5.7 I/O, formerly Mercruiser, I bought the boat with a gaffed engine electrical harness. I pieced it back together and got it running well, but I've been nagged by a problem with the engine losing power and dying. Been towed back 3 times. The last time was on a troubleshooting run with a tech. Boat was running great but as soon as I used the trim tabs the engine lost power. After that it wouldn't run well at any speed, died, and wouldn't restart and we got the tow of shame back to the marina. After it died, the tech checked and said the coil was hot. I pointed out that the same wire going to the ballast resistor also fed the Mallory breakerless ignition, as well as being tagged off of to run an aftermarket electric fuel pump and other stuff (apparently the trim tabs). All told there are about 4 different wires all tagged onto the hot going to the ballast resistor. The tech said that there is just too much load on the single key-on power wire and the coil is running on low voltage, which is heating up the coil and causing it to shut down. This was proven a previous time it died, when I put a timing light on the coil wire and was getting maybe one spark per rev while trying to start. So my question is, where to put all the other loads to isolate the power to coil and ignition? The wiring diagrams I've seen show a purple wire running to the coil and ignition. Since the engine is a PMC replacement with aftermarket ignition, the wiring has been "adapted", and some wires were combined. The tech suggested I take a tap directly from the battery to a relay for the fuel pump, etc. and actuate it using key-on power. But is there a more OE way the ancillaries should be powered? Assistant:

Ayuh,..... Other than the trim tabs, which should be wired to the battery, the other things are normally wired to the ignition circuit,.... To test yer tech's theory, bring along a long enough wire with spring clips on it's ends,.... Use that wire to run from the battery's (+) post, to the coil's tiny (+) post,.... If ya don't have spark then, something in the ignition system is failin',.... I'd suspect a bad ground somewhere, 'n would remove, 'n clean both battery cables,.. Both ends,....

Ayuh,..... Other than the trim tabs, which should be wired to the battery, the other things are normally wired to the ignition circuit,.... To test yer tech's theory, bring along a long enough wire with spring clips on it's ends,.... Use that wire to run from the battery's (+) post, to the coil's tiny (+) post,.... If ya don't have spark then, something in the ignition system is failin',.... I'd suspect a bad ground somewhere, 'n would remove, 'n clean both battery cables,.. Both ends,....

Mr. miagi could show you how to sand

Human: Just replaced the bilge pump in my 1995 Ski Sanger Tournament Tow Boat. As far as I know, it's a simple 12v negative ground electrical system. The pump was operational last season, but didn't run when I turned it on yesterday. Ordered the parts and Amazon delivered them today. I replaced to old pump with an identical model, a Sea Sense 800 GPH Fully Automatic BP. The old pump had frozen and was inoperable. I also replaced the 5A pushbutton circuit breaker and the ON/OFF SPST switch. The old one fell to pieces when I removed it from the instrument panel. No signs of any burning in the switch. The breaker tested bad for continuity. Hooked everything up and flooded the bilge while to boat was on the hoist. The pump turned on, but nothing came out the pump port on the starboard bow. By then, the sun was going down, so I quit for the day. Tmrw, I'll disconnect the hose and see if it's blocked. Is there any way I could have re-attached the wiring to the breaker and the switch so the pump runs backward? Many thanks for your help, PW Assistant:

I don't think you can have a polarity reversal with the wiring at the switch or the breaker... I'd pull the hose at the pump and then retry the switch...most all pumps expel enough product that its easy to tell if the pump is functional...if that's good, then its time to check the hose/thru hull...

I don't think you can have a polarity reversal with the wiring at the switch or the breaker... I'd pull the hose at the pump and then retry the switch...most all pumps expel enough product that its easy to tell if the pump is functional...if that's good, then its time to check the hose/thru hull...

It sounds like the anti syphon valve on fuel tank

Human: Just replaced the bilge pump in my 1995 Ski Sanger Tournament Tow Boat. As far as I know, it's a simple 12v negative ground electrical system. The pump was operational last season, but didn't run when I turned it on yesterday. Ordered the parts and Amazon delivered them today. I replaced to old pump with an identical model, a Sea Sense 800 GPH Fully Automatic BP. The old pump had frozen and was inoperable. I also replaced the 5A pushbutton circuit breaker and the ON/OFF SPST switch. The old one fell to pieces when I removed it from the instrument panel. No signs of any burning in the switch. The breaker tested bad for continuity. Hooked everything up and flooded the bilge while to boat was on the hoist. The pump turned on, but nothing came out the pump port on the starboard bow. By then, the sun was going down, so I quit for the day. Tmrw, I'll disconnect the hose and see if it's blocked. Is there any way I could have re-attached the wiring to the breaker and the switch so the pump runs backward? Many thanks for your help, PW Assistant:

Try to test the bilge pump and switch in a plastic kitchen basin first. You need spare battery. The real reason for this is it allows my body to get into a bilge pump replacement position only once.

Try to test the bilge pump and switch in a plastic kitchen basin first. You need spare battery. The real reason for this is it allows my body to get into a bilge pump replacement position only once.

Tegweni said: Synchronize your throttle valves they should all be closed at idle and your TPS volts should be between 0.48 to 0.52 when you have done this adjust the oil pump arm linkage at idle the arm should touch the stopper . on this model you will take a chance if you bleed it running it on a premixed as the oil pump feeds the vst tank and the manifold onto the cylinders .at idle disconnect the throttle oil pump link arm then move the oi pump arm by hand to its fully open position while at idle to bleed it Click to expand... Sorry this was ment to go on another thread.

Human: Just replaced the bilge pump in my 1995 Ski Sanger Tournament Tow Boat. As far as I know, it's a simple 12v negative ground electrical system. The pump was operational last season, but didn't run when I turned it on yesterday. Ordered the parts and Amazon delivered them today. I replaced to old pump with an identical model, a Sea Sense 800 GPH Fully Automatic BP. The old pump had frozen and was inoperable. I also replaced the 5A pushbutton circuit breaker and the ON/OFF SPST switch. The old one fell to pieces when I removed it from the instrument panel. No signs of any burning in the switch. The breaker tested bad for continuity. Hooked everything up and flooded the bilge while to boat was on the hoist. The pump turned on, but nothing came out the pump port on the starboard bow. By then, the sun was going down, so I quit for the day. Tmrw, I'll disconnect the hose and see if it's blocked. Is there any way I could have re-attached the wiring to the breaker and the switch so the pump runs backward? Many thanks for your help, PW Assistant:

The outlet hose was blocked. Not really sure how that could happen. Ran a 3/8" x 20' hand-crank plumbing snake thru it and problem solved. Thanks for the tips! PW

The outlet hose was blocked. Not really sure how that could happen. Ran a 3/8" x 20' hand-crank plumbing snake thru it and problem solved. Thanks for the tips! PW

"Regarding painting of the und "Regarding painting of the undergear. I use Petit's two part Metal Primer. Put one coat on and let dry completely.....apply second thin coat and just when about dry...put on one coat of hard ablative bottom paint for shafts, gear, rudders, trim tabs adn thru hull fittings. Ain't gonna git none of dem barnaculs to stick on that for couple years!!!! GLuck"

Human: Just replaced the bilge pump in my 1995 Ski Sanger Tournament Tow Boat. As far as I know, it's a simple 12v negative ground electrical system. The pump was operational last season, but didn't run when I turned it on yesterday. Ordered the parts and Amazon delivered them today. I replaced to old pump with an identical model, a Sea Sense 800 GPH Fully Automatic BP. The old pump had frozen and was inoperable. I also replaced the 5A pushbutton circuit breaker and the ON/OFF SPST switch. The old one fell to pieces when I removed it from the instrument panel. No signs of any burning in the switch. The breaker tested bad for continuity. Hooked everything up and flooded the bilge while to boat was on the hoist. The pump turned on, but nothing came out the pump port on the starboard bow. By then, the sun was going down, so I quit for the day. Tmrw, I'll disconnect the hose and see if it's blocked. Is there any way I could have re-attached the wiring to the breaker and the switch so the pump runs backward? Many thanks for your help, PW Assistant:

Mud Daubers (around here) are known to be root causes...

Mud Daubers (around here) are known to be root causes...

Thanks for the help

Human: I ordered a new OEM direct replacement for my throttle actuator but the wiring harness plug and wire colors are different so we cannot re-pin without the threat of doing it wrong and frying the ECU. OEM part has been verified by Honda. Problem is Honda used a short term manufacturer for the unit originally installed on my boat. Now it needs to be replaced but the long running parts manufacturer has a different plug and color scheme. Had anyone encountered this problem or have access to official wiring diagrams so we can re-pin with confidence? Have spent 3-weeks trying to work through Honda without any significant help. Assistant:

Ayuh,..... Patience, 'n a multimeter, 'n you should be able to figure out which wire goes where,....

Ayuh,..... Patience, 'n a multimeter, 'n you should be able to figure out which wire goes where,....

When I get back to the shop possibly tomorrow. I will look up the part numbers to fix this issue. When you replace the older engines with newer dressed engines you have to reconfigure the boat.

Human: Hey all, So I have a forward control handle with a tilt trim switch on it, but the actual button that is pressed to activate the switch is missing. I've looked for a replacement but I believe the control box was made in 1989 and its very hard to find someone selling just the part I need instead of a whole new unit. Does anyone have ideas for the best way to go about this? The switch itself still works, I just need a screwdriver or knife to reach in and push the corners of the switch to activate it. I would prefer to not have to do that. The solutions I've thought of are: 1. Buy a whole new Forward Control box, 2. Somehow 3D print or carve a plastic button to replace the missing one, or 3. Buy a separate switch and rewire it to the dash instead of the handle. Thanks! Assistant:

I'd say option 3 would be the fastest, followed by option 2. if you want to try that path, check with the local community college(s) and or tech schools in your area...lots of time, they are looking for 'real world projects' so you might get lucky there. The other thought that comes to mind is to check with American Outboard Motors, in Maryland...they have a huge stock of new and used parts for 'older' units...google search will get you contact info.

I'd say option 3 would be the fastest, followed by option 2. if you want to try that path, check with the local community college(s) and or tech schools in your area...lots of time, they are looking for 'real world projects' so you might get lucky there. The other thought that comes to mind is to check with American Outboard Motors, in Maryland...they have a huge stock of new and used parts for 'older' units...google search will get you contact info.

A big ----If -------------If you ran this motor with a defective water pump you may want to do a compression test before you spend any money on this motor.

Human: Hey all, So I have a forward control handle with a tilt trim switch on it, but the actual button that is pressed to activate the switch is missing. I've looked for a replacement but I believe the control box was made in 1989 and its very hard to find someone selling just the part I need instead of a whole new unit. Does anyone have ideas for the best way to go about this? The switch itself still works, I just need a screwdriver or knife to reach in and push the corners of the switch to activate it. I would prefer to not have to do that. The solutions I've thought of are: 1. Buy a whole new Forward Control box, 2. Somehow 3D print or carve a plastic button to replace the missing one, or 3. Buy a separate switch and rewire it to the dash instead of the handle. Thanks! Assistant:

Thanks!

Thanks!

Look under the flywheel and make sure the magnets are still glued in and spaced evenly. IF ok, disconnect the main engine harness and jump the starter solenoid. Make sure the muffs are hooked up and the water is on. If the engine starts, the problems are at the helm, plug the harness back in to kill the engine.

Human: The bigger Honda outboards have a Tilt trim switch one the motor. I want to install one on my 8 hp trolling motor. It is a pain having to climb into the boat to trim and tilt the motor. Has anyone done this? The control wires are the green and blue. Seems pretty simple to tie into those wires and get the Honda switch with a fused power wire? Assistant:

Ayuh,..... An 8 hp, with hyd. trim, 'n tilt,..??..??

Ayuh,..... An 8 hp, with hyd. trim, 'n tilt,..??..??

I believe it is a bezel...not coupler. Are these standard size?

Human: The bigger Honda outboards have a Tilt trim switch one the motor. I want to install one on my 8 hp trolling motor. It is a pain having to climb into the boat to trim and tilt the motor. Has anyone done this? The control wires are the green and blue. Seems pretty simple to tie into those wires and get the Honda switch with a fused power wire? Assistant:

bondo said: Ayuh,..... An 8 hp, with hyd. trim, 'n tilt,..??..?? Click to expand... It is a BBAJ 8 hp, with power start, trim, and tilt. Look the motor up. You show your knowledge on the Hondas?

bondo said: Ayuh,..... An 8 hp, with hyd. trim, 'n tilt,..??..?? Click to expand... It is a BBAJ 8 hp, with power start, trim, and tilt. Look the motor up. You show your knowledge on the Hondas?

Are you here in the USA or in another country? Here in the USA several model year C30 Yams used the 61N-85540-00-00 CDI. https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/61N-85540-00-00?q_ref=61n-85540-00-00 Those C30 models used a 61T-14301-00-00 carburetor but that carburetor uses a 61N-14381-00-00 float bowl. https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/61N-14381-00-00?q_ref=61n-14381-00-00 My best guess is that your 25 HP model is the equivalent of a USA model C30. No oil injection. circa 1999 ~ 2005.

Human: The bigger Honda outboards have a Tilt trim switch one the motor. I want to install one on my 8 hp trolling motor. It is a pain having to climb into the boat to trim and tilt the motor. Has anyone done this? The control wires are the green and blue. Seems pretty simple to tie into those wires and get the Honda switch with a fused power wire? Assistant:

Ayuh,.... Ya need a 3 position momentary toggle switch, powered the center terminal, blue/ up wire on the lower terminal, 'n the green to the other terminal, 'n mount the switch where ever ya want it,.....

Ayuh,.... Ya need a 3 position momentary toggle switch, powered the center terminal, blue/ up wire on the lower terminal, 'n the green to the other terminal, 'n mount the switch where ever ya want it,.....

Thanks guys, have a new fuel line on the tank, but worried it might be leaking air. Going to try a different line on a clean tank and see if that works, if so - I'll switch out the other. Going to look all through it and see if it might be getting air in anywhere or if any lines have fallen off, check fuel pump, etc. I am also going to see if it might be an issue with the ignition switch, initially the kill switch needed to be jiggled in order for the engine to start up, I checked all the wiring and it wasn't that, so I may need to replace the switch. Any other ideas or suggestions before pulling off the carbs and cleaning them - if those don't work? Thanks for the help, I'll let you know how it goes this afternoon.

Human: Hi folks, I have a tracker boat with mercury 40hp engine, just last week when I was in the lake, there was some water get into boat duo to live well clog and after that I couldn't turn my engine on again. I went back home and opened the engine cowl and find 15amp fuse blew, so I bought new 15amp fuses but every time I start engine, I heard bee---- then the same fuse blow, every time after I replace new 15amp, the electricity actually works, I can lift up and down the engine from the console side, so I am assuming the short happening on the ignition side, but I'm not really sure... any one has any suggestions? Any good way to trace this issue? I appreciate any suggestions... Assistant:

Tried replacing the diode which a lot of ppl said was the issue but still 15amp fuse blew, any one has any suggestions please?

Tried replacing the diode which a lot of ppl said was the issue but still 15amp fuse blew, any one has any suggestions please?

Just an update, was getting on my nerves so bought a new carb, now runs just fine so there's something amiss in there that I'll have to get to the bottom of, runs fine now, a little smokey but I can live with that.....

Human: My boat is 250ft from the nearest house AC GFCI receptacle. I wish to use the AC battery tender, installed on the boat, powered from my [lake] house, e.g., like shore power. I installed, across from my house (road), a Male outdoor enclosed AC receptacle. Near the boat (225’) is a female enclosed outdoor GFCI. The cable (wire) between the two receptacles sits an above ground type UF (?) underground 14-gauge 3 conductor gray cable. I planned on using a temporary grounded extension cord from the house GFCI to the male plug to power the GFCI near the boat. (Note the house AC GFCI is new and trips/resets correctly, and both the house AC GCFI, and the 225’ away GCFI near the boat are in series, if that matters.) Problem: The female GFCI near the boat (225 ft) has no power. Water and wring are not the issue. - The female GFCI near the boat wont trip/reset, has no power, but the GFCI equipped led light is lit green. I replaced the GFCI with another GFCI, same issue. - If I replace the [near the boat] GFCI with a simple home receptacle the LED idiot test light shows properly grounded lights (two yellow) but again no power to the tender. Another tester shows 110 Amps. Is the problem really a voltage drop for 225’? I’m going to do some more testing, inspect the wire, and use a better tester for voltage but wanted to post this first. In the past, I’ve daisy chained 250’ worth of extension cords and they seem to work fine (drills), so I wanted a more permanent solution. Thanks. Assistant:

There shouldn't be any voltage drop with AC. It's likely you have bad connection somewhere. You can use extension cords but use the heavy duty ones that are rated (UL) for outdoor use. They make these waterproof boxes that you use for the connection between cords, so if you are using 2 x 100" and one 50' you'll want to get a few for those connections so that water won't get in the plugs. I ran over 200 feet out to my pond for the bubblers and that's what I used. 5 years so far no issues. In 1/60 of a second, the speed of the electricity flows through that wire roughly 5 million meters, so your 225 feet is not even a thing.

There shouldn't be any voltage drop with AC. It's likely you have bad connection somewhere. You can use extension cords but use the heavy duty ones that are rated (UL) for outdoor use. They make these waterproof boxes that you use for the connection between cords, so if you are using 2 x 100" and one 50' you'll want to get a few for those connections so that water won't get in the plugs. I ran over 200 feet out to my pond for the bubblers and that's what I used. 5 years so far no issues. In 1/60 of a second, the speed of the electricity flows through that wire roughly 5 million meters, so your 225 feet is not even a thing.

makomark said: If the steering box is mounted correctly, I'd suspect one of two things occurred: 1) the steering wheel was not oriented correctly when the cable was installed or 2) the "link" at the outdrive wasn't adjusted to "align" the system when going straight. If the link you have is fixed, I'd re-install the steering cable per the teleflex directions (most are on the web if you search some). Click to expand... Ayuh,.... Or, install a Destroyer type steerin' wheel where it don't matter,....

Human: My boat is 250ft from the nearest house AC GFCI receptacle. I wish to use the AC battery tender, installed on the boat, powered from my [lake] house, e.g., like shore power. I installed, across from my house (road), a Male outdoor enclosed AC receptacle. Near the boat (225’) is a female enclosed outdoor GFCI. The cable (wire) between the two receptacles sits an above ground type UF (?) underground 14-gauge 3 conductor gray cable. I planned on using a temporary grounded extension cord from the house GFCI to the male plug to power the GFCI near the boat. (Note the house AC GFCI is new and trips/resets correctly, and both the house AC GCFI, and the 225’ away GCFI near the boat are in series, if that matters.) Problem: The female GFCI near the boat (225 ft) has no power. Water and wring are not the issue. - The female GFCI near the boat wont trip/reset, has no power, but the GFCI equipped led light is lit green. I replaced the GFCI with another GFCI, same issue. - If I replace the [near the boat] GFCI with a simple home receptacle the LED idiot test light shows properly grounded lights (two yellow) but again no power to the tender. Another tester shows 110 Amps. Is the problem really a voltage drop for 225’? I’m going to do some more testing, inspect the wire, and use a better tester for voltage but wanted to post this first. In the past, I’ve daisy chained 250’ worth of extension cords and they seem to work fine (drills), so I wanted a more permanent solution. Thanks. Assistant:

I'm trying to get away from running extension cords and just run them to the male plug and the boat. The only WB I haven't opened is the one with the male plug top of hill. Will do that today. I'm thinking get rid of the fancy plastic hinged water tight WB's and get male plug for the top of the hill and a female plug for the bottom where the boat is... I've made unicorns and I should of only made a deer \

I'm trying to get away from running extension cords and just run them to the male plug and the boat. The only WB I haven't opened is the one with the male plug top of hill. Will do that today. I'm thinking get rid of the fancy plastic hinged water tight WB's and get male plug for the top of the hill and a female plug for the bottom where the boat is... I've made unicorns and I should of only made a deer \

Totally agree with Makomark. It's the dealer who will make or break the deal. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish (which probably gives away my age.) Bargain hunting for the lowest price for a given outboard will often get you to the lowest-service dealer. Research the dealer and look at all on-line ratings. And recognized that there is a certain part of the population that will never be satisfied with anything. If you post your location, there may be others on this forum who could make an informed recommendation for your area..

Human: My boat is 250ft from the nearest house AC GFCI receptacle. I wish to use the AC battery tender, installed on the boat, powered from my [lake] house, e.g., like shore power. I installed, across from my house (road), a Male outdoor enclosed AC receptacle. Near the boat (225’) is a female enclosed outdoor GFCI. The cable (wire) between the two receptacles sits an above ground type UF (?) underground 14-gauge 3 conductor gray cable. I planned on using a temporary grounded extension cord from the house GFCI to the male plug to power the GFCI near the boat. (Note the house AC GFCI is new and trips/resets correctly, and both the house AC GCFI, and the 225’ away GCFI near the boat are in series, if that matters.) Problem: The female GFCI near the boat (225 ft) has no power. Water and wring are not the issue. - The female GFCI near the boat wont trip/reset, has no power, but the GFCI equipped led light is lit green. I replaced the GFCI with another GFCI, same issue. - If I replace the [near the boat] GFCI with a simple home receptacle the LED idiot test light shows properly grounded lights (two yellow) but again no power to the tender. Another tester shows 110 Amps. Is the problem really a voltage drop for 225’? I’m going to do some more testing, inspect the wire, and use a better tester for voltage but wanted to post this first. In the past, I’ve daisy chained 250’ worth of extension cords and they seem to work fine (drills), so I wanted a more permanent solution. Thanks. Assistant:

Found problem: wire in sealed work box cut (sabotage). That's all I can say. Looks somebody wants to stay with old ways.....thanks

Found problem: wire in sealed work box cut (sabotage). That's all I can say. Looks somebody wants to stay with old ways.....thanks

Thanks. I revisited the wiring to the Multi function gauges, and as you said it is a ten pin and it seems all pins are occupied. I think the trim sender wire is orange(?) and it is connected. Brand new senders and shop adjusted fingers just last week. Trim indicator still shows top bar flashing and no change when changing tilt. Its been like this since the re-power 4 years ago. The mechanic felt certain it was a discrepancy between 2010 motors and 2004 harness but now I don't think that's the case. It's just sticking in my craw that they aren't functioning. Electrical work is my weakness. Any and all ideas please. Thanks

Human: The P.O. of my boat had cut the plug out of the engine wiring harness and butt connect the wires rather than try to repair a loose connection. I have to pull the engine to replace the starter ring gear so it would be a good time to splice in a new connector if possible. The engine is a PCM carburetted 5.7 in an '80's S2 Slickcraft sport cruiser. I have the wiring diagram and have already sorted thru the wiring to understand what goes where. Without having it in front of me, I'd say there are 7 or 8 wires that connect. Does anyone make a replacement or universal plug (both male and female side) that I can splice into this to make it right and easier in the future rather than cutting and butt-connecting wires every time? Assistant:

you can buy military (watertight) connectors - look up "38999 connectors" - as one option...size the pins to match the wires and you will be find. It would probably be faster to just buy a new engine harness and a matching new instrument panel harness. If the engine is pre-ECU, another option is to just make a new harness (from the instrument panel to the engine) and eliminate the connector...if the engine has to be removed, its not that difficult to just disconnect the wire ends...and you never have to worry about the connector pins and sockets corroding...

you can buy military (watertight) connectors - look up "38999 connectors" - as one option...size the pins to match the wires and you will be find. It would probably be faster to just buy a new engine harness and a matching new instrument panel harness. If the engine is pre-ECU, another option is to just make a new harness (from the instrument panel to the engine) and eliminate the connector...if the engine has to be removed, its not that difficult to just disconnect the wire ends...and you never have to worry about the connector pins and sockets corroding...

If you do not know how to test for voltage let me know.

Human: The P.O. of my boat had cut the plug out of the engine wiring harness and butt connect the wires rather than try to repair a loose connection. I have to pull the engine to replace the starter ring gear so it would be a good time to splice in a new connector if possible. The engine is a PCM carburetted 5.7 in an '80's S2 Slickcraft sport cruiser. I have the wiring diagram and have already sorted thru the wiring to understand what goes where. Without having it in front of me, I'd say there are 7 or 8 wires that connect. Does anyone make a replacement or universal plug (both male and female side) that I can splice into this to make it right and easier in the future rather than cutting and butt-connecting wires every time? Assistant:

FYI in powersports (ATV's) connectors and repairs are addressed by OTB powersports....just a another source

FYI in powersports (ATV's) connectors and repairs are addressed by OTB powersports....just a another source

"I've got the same problem "I've got the same problem with my F25 '03 no problems ever then now it will start and idle for 10-20 seconds then quit. The pumper shaft at back of carb has a rubber boot which I discovered is cracked, if I manually pump it the engine starts and quits. If I pump it 4-6 times gas leaks out of the cracked boot. Question is of course what effect will the boot being cracked have? Will it let air in and prevent the engine from running once started?"

Human: The P.O. of my boat had cut the plug out of the engine wiring harness and butt connect the wires rather than try to repair a loose connection. I have to pull the engine to replace the starter ring gear so it would be a good time to splice in a new connector if possible. The engine is a PCM carburetted 5.7 in an '80's S2 Slickcraft sport cruiser. I have the wiring diagram and have already sorted thru the wiring to understand what goes where. Without having it in front of me, I'd say there are 7 or 8 wires that connect. Does anyone make a replacement or universal plug (both male and female side) that I can splice into this to make it right and easier in the future rather than cutting and butt-connecting wires every time? Assistant:

makomark said: you can buy military (watertight) connectors - look up "38999 connectors" - as one option...size the pins to match the wires and you will be find. It would probably be faster to just buy a new engine harness and a matching new instrument panel harness. If the engine is pre-ECU, another option is to just make a new harness (from the instrument panel to the engine) and eliminate the connector...if the engine has to be removed, its not that difficult to just disconnect the wire ends...and you never have to worry about the connector pins and sockets corroding... Click to expand... The wiring is currently just butt spliced at the engine. I really want a quick way to disconnect everything for pulling the motor when needed. I bought both female and male plugs like this

makomark said: you can buy military (watertight) connectors - look up "38999 connectors" - as one option...size the pins to match the wires and you will be find. It would probably be faster to just buy a new engine harness and a matching new instrument panel harness. If the engine is pre-ECU, another option is to just make a new harness (from the instrument panel to the engine) and eliminate the connector...if the engine has to be removed, its not that difficult to just disconnect the wire ends...and you never have to worry about the connector pins and sockets corroding... Click to expand... The wiring is currently just butt spliced at the engine. I really want a quick way to disconnect everything for pulling the motor when needed. I bought both female and male plugs like this

My hesitation is two fold, might the water dilute the acetone beyond effectiveness (depends on volume) and is there some unforeseen pitfall I'm overlooking. Click to expand... Ayuh,..... A couple of things I can think of,...... If the foam is wet, the acetone may not get past the water to attack the foam,...... Acetone flashes off fairly quickly,.... where ever, 'n whenever it flashes off, the melted foam will turn into hardened plastic,...... 'n because acetone flashes off so well, it could become a Bomb,.....

Human: well had little spark so changed plugs, wires, condensers, coils and points. Air gaps perfect, points set and coils were tested. Now motor just cranks great BUT NO SPARK at all? The one "M" on key ignition switch is not really tight to base as all the others. So are my coils not getting the power they need? or am I missing something else. Assistant:

What motor ???----And I do not believe the coils on your motor need 12 volts from the battery to make spark for the plugs !-----Work carefully and make sure you do not apply 12 volts to the coils !

What motor ???----And I do not believe the coils on your motor need 12 volts from the battery to make spark for the plugs !-----Work carefully and make sure you do not apply 12 volts to the coils !

Never mind I figured it out duhhh

Human: well had little spark so changed plugs, wires, condensers, coils and points. Air gaps perfect, points set and coils were tested. Now motor just cranks great BUT NO SPARK at all? The one "M" on key ignition switch is not really tight to base as all the others. So are my coils not getting the power they need? or am I missing something else. Assistant:

The motor is a 1962 Johnson 40 HP electric start

The motor is a 1962 Johnson 40 HP electric start

boscoe said: 5A is the model identity. The motor should also be marked with its primary identification number. It will begin with the number 6. If parts are still available you can get them from any Yamaha UK outboard motor dealer. Click to expand... hello many thanks,engine serial number is 644S 61411,any idea which year this was made

Human: well had little spark so changed plugs, wires, condensers, coils and points. Air gaps perfect, points set and coils were tested. Now motor just cranks great BUT NO SPARK at all? The one "M" on key ignition switch is not really tight to base as all the others. So are my coils not getting the power they need? or am I missing something else. Assistant:

i also have no spark at the plugs..but i have spark at the points..its a 1989 3.7 mercruiser ..ive replaced the coil the rotor button and distributer cap,,and dont what else to try..would surely appreciate any advice as to what to try next...

i also have no spark at the plugs..but i have spark at the points..its a 1989 3.7 mercruiser ..ive replaced the coil the rotor button and distributer cap,,and dont what else to try..would surely appreciate any advice as to what to try next...

boscoe said: Get the markings from the carburetors. Get the marking from the CDI. Click to expand... Carb is 6j902 621400-071 77021 Not sure on cdi, outboard is on trailer and I can't flip 400 lbs at the moment... Coils are cm61-26

Human: Can my marine vhs be used inland as emergency radio. I have the VHS marine radio, purchased for offshore use. Haven’t even connected power or it’s antenna bc I was informed this radio only works when close to a coastline, is this true or false? seams false bc lakes are inland. Can this radio actually connect to other vhs or similar radios, like ham, cb, short wave, for when the devils cut off cell Phones & LAN lines. What are you Guys planning to use when in an emergency situation? Additional: I have temporally connected power just to test if it did turn on which it did.it's a brand new radio just sitting for a couple 3 years. Didn’t connect the antenna for 2 reasons 1.corrosion covering terminator. 2.fiberglass antennas tip is cracked a bit at the Top section of antenna. Attached a couple images of the radio stuff. Thanks for any radio tips. Assistant:

Ayuh,..... Usin' yer boat 2-way on land is like usin' a cb radio on the water,..... The radios will work just fine, except nobody else is on those bands,.....

Ayuh,..... Usin' yer boat 2-way on land is like usin' a cb radio on the water,..... The radios will work just fine, except nobody else is on those bands,.....

With no response from the community, I ordered a new thermostat with gasket along with a new pressure control valve with spring and grommet. Will install early next week. My question now is: If there is water coming out of the pee hole at a good clip, does that mean that the cylinder head is getting good cooling?

Human: Can my marine vhs be used inland as emergency radio. I have the VHS marine radio, purchased for offshore use. Haven’t even connected power or it’s antenna bc I was informed this radio only works when close to a coastline, is this true or false? seams false bc lakes are inland. Can this radio actually connect to other vhs or similar radios, like ham, cb, short wave, for when the devils cut off cell Phones & LAN lines. What are you Guys planning to use when in an emergency situation? Additional: I have temporally connected power just to test if it did turn on which it did.it's a brand new radio just sitting for a couple 3 years. Didn’t connect the antenna for 2 reasons 1.corrosion covering terminator. 2.fiberglass antennas tip is cracked a bit at the Top section of antenna. Attached a couple images of the radio stuff. Thanks for any radio tips. Assistant:

OK I was thinking the FCC mandates channel 9 on VHS an are also operating at the same frequency as CB radios channel 9 both are emergency channels. so your saying VHS usually on water won't connect w/ CB thats usually on land & CBs only connect to CB an VHS only only connects w/VHS?

OK I was thinking the FCC mandates channel 9 on VHS an are also operating at the same frequency as CB radios channel 9 both are emergency channels. so your saying VHS usually on water won't connect w/ CB thats usually on land & CBs only connect to CB an VHS only only connects w/VHS?

thanks for the help everyone. I had an opportunity to look at another prov and every fuse was 10amps or 5amps. Previous owner must not have cared if he had the right fuses or not.

Human: Can my marine vhs be used inland as emergency radio. I have the VHS marine radio, purchased for offshore use. Haven’t even connected power or it’s antenna bc I was informed this radio only works when close to a coastline, is this true or false? seams false bc lakes are inland. Can this radio actually connect to other vhs or similar radios, like ham, cb, short wave, for when the devils cut off cell Phones & LAN lines. What are you Guys planning to use when in an emergency situation? Additional: I have temporally connected power just to test if it did turn on which it did.it's a brand new radio just sitting for a couple 3 years. Didn’t connect the antenna for 2 reasons 1.corrosion covering terminator. 2.fiberglass antennas tip is cracked a bit at the Top section of antenna. Attached a couple images of the radio stuff. Thanks for any radio tips. Assistant:

,Ayuh,..... CB is am, VHF is fm,...

,Ayuh,..... CB is am, VHF is fm,...

Thanks guys.... I came back to the forum to search out some other info and thought I'd check up on this. I wound up putting the electric brakes on. Everything was purchased brand new. Before I installed it all, I got a spray can of tremclad and gave everything a good waterproofing (I hope) on the backing plates. I didn't paint the important surfaces of the drum, or the magnet faces. So far, so good. We'll see how they last coming into this next summer.

Human: I have a 1994 Chaprarral 2130 Sport that I bought new and have kept it in my garage ever since I took delivery. I only boat in a freshwater lake, wash and clean it up after every trip, so this issue should not have anything to do with corrosion. The boat came with the 7.4L Mercruiser which threw a rod at the end of 2020 with almost 1,200 hours on the engine. A friend recommended a guy who builds high performance engines for boats and race cars. I looked into that and for just a bit more money than doing a complete rebuild, as of March 2021 I now have a cusotm-built 496 stoker engine. Everything ran great all last summer, but at the end of the season, an electrical issue started happening that I can't figure out. Coming home from the lake, I stopped to top off the tank and heard the buzzer. This is the one where if you turn the key on and don't crank the engine within about 15 seconds, it goes off. The only way to stop it was disconnecting the positive cables from the battery. Over the winter, I was passing by a West Marine store and picked up a new ignition switch. Yeah, I know that when there's a problem, you don't just start swapping parts but the switch was only around 20 bucks and seemed a good place to start. Put the new switch in and yep, same problem. I have traced all the wires from the ingition swtich and don't see any shorts or bare wires rubbing up against anything sharp. Any ideas what to check next? Could this be the starter solenoid and how would I check that? Assistant:

If its the audio warning horn, then it sounds like the wiring in the dash has gotten loose (maybe). reconnect battery and then find the horn, if its going off - if its standard mercruiser stuff, it (the horn) should have a purple wire (likely from one of the instruments and a tan/blue wire with a bullet connector. separate the bullet connector and hopefully, the horn should shut off. take a voltmeter and probe between the purple wire and a black wire at the instrument where the purple wire from the horn connects. If you have +12VDC, then something is providing current to the instruments (should be the key switch but that should still be OFF). If you have another set of eyes, they can watch the instruments when the battery gets reconnected...

If its the audio warning horn, then it sounds like the wiring in the dash has gotten loose (maybe). reconnect battery and then find the horn, if its going off - if its standard mercruiser stuff, it (the horn) should have a purple wire (likely from one of the instruments and a tan/blue wire with a bullet connector. separate the bullet connector and hopefully, the horn should shut off. take a voltmeter and probe between the purple wire and a black wire at the instrument where the purple wire from the horn connects. If you have +12VDC, then something is providing current to the instruments (should be the key switch but that should still be OFF). If you have another set of eyes, they can watch the instruments when the battery gets reconnected...

Thanks for the response. I've managed to siphon most of the fuel out of the tank. There is a little I can't get. But hopefully clean gas will help run it out. Gonna take carb off tomorrow and do the lines. Plugs as well as they are black. If anything else comes out of it I will post

Human: I have a 1994 Chaprarral 2130 Sport that I bought new and have kept it in my garage ever since I took delivery. I only boat in a freshwater lake, wash and clean it up after every trip, so this issue should not have anything to do with corrosion. The boat came with the 7.4L Mercruiser which threw a rod at the end of 2020 with almost 1,200 hours on the engine. A friend recommended a guy who builds high performance engines for boats and race cars. I looked into that and for just a bit more money than doing a complete rebuild, as of March 2021 I now have a cusotm-built 496 stoker engine. Everything ran great all last summer, but at the end of the season, an electrical issue started happening that I can't figure out. Coming home from the lake, I stopped to top off the tank and heard the buzzer. This is the one where if you turn the key on and don't crank the engine within about 15 seconds, it goes off. The only way to stop it was disconnecting the positive cables from the battery. Over the winter, I was passing by a West Marine store and picked up a new ignition switch. Yeah, I know that when there's a problem, you don't just start swapping parts but the switch was only around 20 bucks and seemed a good place to start. Put the new switch in and yep, same problem. I have traced all the wires from the ingition swtich and don't see any shorts or bare wires rubbing up against anything sharp. Any ideas what to check next? Could this be the starter solenoid and how would I check that? Assistant:

Thanks for the reply but one thing I forgot to mention (sorry!). When I reconnect the fat red wire coming from the starter back to the battery, the console lights and gauges come on. About 15 seconds after that is when the buzzers sounds. This would be the exact behavior if I were to just turn the ignition key on and not start the engine.

Thanks for the reply but one thing I forgot to mention (sorry!). When I reconnect the fat red wire coming from the starter back to the battery, the console lights and gauges come on. About 15 seconds after that is when the buzzers sounds. This would be the exact behavior if I were to just turn the ignition key on and not start the engine.

racerone said: There is a spot on the intake manifold where you mount a simple pump.---Just in front of the starter motor.-------A pump like found on the 88 HP versions of your motor.-----The pump should have 2 nipples one for fuel in and one for fuel out.------The pump mounts directly over the PRESSURE port with 2 screws 10-24NC thread and a gasket.-----The plug has to be removed from the pressure port.------Plug the port where VRO got pressure. Click to expand... Thank you very much, but it is possible to just mix the fuel and unplug the oil injection part and should work also in a pinch rightt? Thanks. Again

Human: I have a 1994 Chaprarral 2130 Sport that I bought new and have kept it in my garage ever since I took delivery. I only boat in a freshwater lake, wash and clean it up after every trip, so this issue should not have anything to do with corrosion. The boat came with the 7.4L Mercruiser which threw a rod at the end of 2020 with almost 1,200 hours on the engine. A friend recommended a guy who builds high performance engines for boats and race cars. I looked into that and for just a bit more money than doing a complete rebuild, as of March 2021 I now have a cusotm-built 496 stoker engine. Everything ran great all last summer, but at the end of the season, an electrical issue started happening that I can't figure out. Coming home from the lake, I stopped to top off the tank and heard the buzzer. This is the one where if you turn the key on and don't crank the engine within about 15 seconds, it goes off. The only way to stop it was disconnecting the positive cables from the battery. Over the winter, I was passing by a West Marine store and picked up a new ignition switch. Yeah, I know that when there's a problem, you don't just start swapping parts but the switch was only around 20 bucks and seemed a good place to start. Put the new switch in and yep, same problem. I have traced all the wires from the ingition swtich and don't see any shorts or bare wires rubbing up against anything sharp. Any ideas what to check next? Could this be the starter solenoid and how would I check that? Assistant:

ok...sounds like there is a short between the battery's positive loop and the ignition circuit... I would start by separating the large connector in the main engine wiring harness (connecting the engine to the dash)...that will give you some indication on which 'side' the issue is..

ok...sounds like there is a short between the battery's positive loop and the ignition circuit... I would start by separating the large connector in the main engine wiring harness (connecting the engine to the dash)...that will give you some indication on which 'side' the issue is..

Wish the "edit" window was open longer. This "OMC Gasket Sealer" is still available: http://www.amazon.com/OMC-Gasket-Sealing-Compound-508235/dp/B004H4HVFC I have always (before and after the 1998 incident) used either waterproof grease or an appropriate "Never Seize" on Bolts and Nuts with never a problem like this. The most popular 'Never Seize' is the Copper formula and that would bring galvanic corrosion to any use around Aluminum. They also sell a Graphite formula which works well, but is messy and your Marine Service Tech will hate that you used it. Probably the best for exhaust cover bolts would be the "Aluminum" formula version Never Seize. Hoping for knowledgeable input here before I reach the point (if ever) of reassembly. Art

Human: I have a 1994 Chaprarral 2130 Sport that I bought new and have kept it in my garage ever since I took delivery. I only boat in a freshwater lake, wash and clean it up after every trip, so this issue should not have anything to do with corrosion. The boat came with the 7.4L Mercruiser which threw a rod at the end of 2020 with almost 1,200 hours on the engine. A friend recommended a guy who builds high performance engines for boats and race cars. I looked into that and for just a bit more money than doing a complete rebuild, as of March 2021 I now have a cusotm-built 496 stoker engine. Everything ran great all last summer, but at the end of the season, an electrical issue started happening that I can't figure out. Coming home from the lake, I stopped to top off the tank and heard the buzzer. This is the one where if you turn the key on and don't crank the engine within about 15 seconds, it goes off. The only way to stop it was disconnecting the positive cables from the battery. Over the winter, I was passing by a West Marine store and picked up a new ignition switch. Yeah, I know that when there's a problem, you don't just start swapping parts but the switch was only around 20 bucks and seemed a good place to start. Put the new switch in and yep, same problem. I have traced all the wires from the ingition swtich and don't see any shorts or bare wires rubbing up against anything sharp. Any ideas what to check next? Could this be the starter solenoid and how would I check that? Assistant:

Forgot to update this thread after finally figuring out the issue. There is a clip on the side of the engine block that holds up the wiring loom behind the alternator. The clip was loose enough to allow the loom to sag down, which caused the orange alternator wire to just barely rub up against one of the studs on the back of the alternator. The wire was just barely punctured by that stud, but it was enough to cause the short. I appreciate all the hints and tips!

Forgot to update this thread after finally figuring out the issue. There is a clip on the side of the engine block that holds up the wiring loom behind the alternator. The clip was loose enough to allow the loom to sag down, which caused the orange alternator wire to just barely rub up against one of the studs on the back of the alternator. The wire was just barely punctured by that stud, but it was enough to cause the short. I appreciate all the hints and tips!

ClassicAQ said: Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement. Click to expand... thank you

Human: Hi Bought an OEM rectifier for a 1984 Johnson 3 cylinder 70 HP outboard recently. Its outputting 15.8volts on high recs, blowing bulbs, gauges and probably damaging battery. Can I fit a regulator inline to bring voltage down or can someone point me to a rectifier they know will give me the correct outage? I'm based in Ireland. Assistant:

After market -----CDI----has a rectifier / regulator for that motor.

After market -----CDI----has a rectifier / regulator for that motor.

Get a factory harness with the appropriately colored wires...its the only way to go if you want to sell it in the future...not only are the colors important but you will find the copper under the insulation is not readily available at your favorite big box store...

Human: Hi Bought an OEM rectifier for a 1984 Johnson 3 cylinder 70 HP outboard recently. Its outputting 15.8volts on high recs, blowing bulbs, gauges and probably damaging battery. Can I fit a regulator inline to bring voltage down or can someone point me to a rectifier they know will give me the correct outage? I'm based in Ireland. Assistant:

Thanks. I'll check them out.

Thanks. I'll check them out.

racerone said: Some plastics can be welded.----You must nave somebody in the GTA that you can consult.---Auto body shops may help find somebody. Click to expand... Thanks for the suggestion.

Human: I am a newbe, so please do not think bad of my question. I am restoring a 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 5.7. I am working on my throttle lever, and the plastic piece behind the button is broken. Can you tell me is it important? What does it do? Can I get another one? Assistant:

lots of different control boxes available in that timeframe....a clear focused picture of what you are asking about would help a lot. If its is the original control box, it may be easier to just replace it....you're looking at damn near 40 years...

lots of different control boxes available in that timeframe....a clear focused picture of what you are asking about would help a lot. If its is the original control box, it may be easier to just replace it....you're looking at damn near 40 years...

willow said: Problem solved..Admin may DELETE this thread if so desired. Click to expand... Ayuh,... Threads don't get deleted,.. they sink into the archives, where somebody else will search 'em lookin' for answers to Their questions... Which is WHY, 'it'd be nice if you stated HOW ya fixed it...

Human: Can anyone tell me how to remove the throttle handle? My restoration project is a 1984 Sea Ray. The handle seamed a little bit loose so I decided to take it apart to see if I could get it to work smoother. I removed the plastic covering from the handle that was tapped on holding it together. It seams to have what looks like a plastic snap ring on the bottom of the handle. It is not wanting to come off. I do not want to break anything. Does anyone now if I am going about this the wrong way? Or is there a better way to remove this throttle handle? Answers are appreciated, Thanks, Mr Steve Assistant:

Ayuh,..... There's bazillions of controllers, 'n we can't see what yer seein',.....

Ayuh,..... There's bazillions of controllers, 'n we can't see what yer seein',.....

vroomZoom, Good point; I will look into it. I have just a rudimentary grasp of electronic principles so I want to be cautious in my approach. When the motor stopped, I tried to restart it several times before I turned the key off. It then follows that something supplied power to the CDI to let it get hot enough to burn a small whole through the housing, no? The energy had to come from the battery and not the pulser or charge coils to make that much heat for that long. What could cause an internal short in the CDI? I tried to insert a photo, it uploaded but I don't see it here or know where it went.

Human: Can anyone tell me how to remove the throttle handle? My restoration project is a 1984 Sea Ray. The handle seamed a little bit loose so I decided to take it apart to see if I could get it to work smoother. I removed the plastic covering from the handle that was tapped on holding it together. It seams to have what looks like a plastic snap ring on the bottom of the handle. It is not wanting to come off. I do not want to break anything. Does anyone now if I am going about this the wrong way? Or is there a better way to remove this throttle handle? Answers are appreciated, Thanks, Mr Steve Assistant:

This is about the best picture I can get of what I am working on. I am having trouble with what looks like a small plastic washer. I do not want to break it. I am trying to get the handle off to try and repair it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Steve

This is about the best picture I can get of what I am working on. I am having trouble with what looks like a small plastic washer. I do not want to break it. I am trying to get the handle off to try and repair it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Steve

Being that your R terminal is fed from the ignition, its likely the "excite" function that gets things charging when you start the engine... So, the R terminal is an INPUT, not an output....it is switched so the alternator shuts off with the engine.

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

mr steve wayne 575 said: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Click to expand... Ayuh,...... The red wire goes to the Batt terminal,..... The purple wire goes to the Ign. terminal,..... The yellow/ red wire goes to the Start terminal,.... 'n it appears you don't have an Acc. circuit,....

mr steve wayne 575 said: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Click to expand... Ayuh,...... The red wire goes to the Batt terminal,..... The purple wire goes to the Ign. terminal,..... The yellow/ red wire goes to the Start terminal,.... 'n it appears you don't have an Acc. circuit,....

The efficiency difference between a 12 vdc motor and a 120 vac motor is great. I'd be quite surprised if they worked well, and/or with any efficiency. Most people that I am in touch with use either an O/B Marine generator, or one of the Honda EU series generators to power AC units.

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

Thank you bondo, I will give that a try. Just curious, How did you get that user name? do you do auto body work?

Thank you bondo, I will give that a try. Just curious, How did you get that user name? do you do auto body work?

I would suggest you call the folks at SeaStar, the Capilano product line's manufacturer, and ask them. Several years ago, I converted my power boat from Morse mechanical steering to SeaStar hydraulic and needed some advice. I called their technical support and received excellent, helpful information. 604-248-3858 http://seastarsolutions.com/support-2/technical-support/hydraulic-steering/

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

mr steve wayne 575 said: Thank you bondo, I will give that a try. Just curious, How did you get that user name? do you do auto body work? Click to expand... Naw,..... It's a play on my last name,..... Been called Bondo, by my closest friends since high school,....

mr steve wayne 575 said: Thank you bondo, I will give that a try. Just curious, How did you get that user name? do you do auto body work? Click to expand... Naw,..... It's a play on my last name,..... Been called Bondo, by my closest friends since high school,....

Limp mode is triggered by low oil or high temp, not by a fuel related issue. Do you have yam oil/temp gauge? The gauge will indicate which of sensors is triggered by a blinking bar over the oil/temp symbol.

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

It appears that my old ignition switch has a red wire going straight from switch key to a panel of toggle switches as it looks like to give power to the panel. I am having trouble tracing Yellow with purple strip, and solid purple to see where they go. I would sure feel more comfortable finding a copy of my wiring diagram, but out of all I looked at still no luck. they have no yellow with red strip wire.

It appears that my old ignition switch has a red wire going straight from switch key to a panel of toggle switches as it looks like to give power to the panel. I am having trouble tracing Yellow with purple strip, and solid purple to see where they go. I would sure feel more comfortable finding a copy of my wiring diagram, but out of all I looked at still no luck. they have no yellow with red strip wire.

papyson said: if the gas is two years old has the boat set up with no running in 2 years? the first thing i would do is get rid of the gas and start fresh....check the plugs to see if they are wet with the new gas when it fails..its probably time for carb rebuilds.. Click to expand... I realize the old gas that is mixed with the new is probably not 100% but that doesn't really explain the symptoms. Especially that when 'force fed' fuel via the bulb it ran at full power (briefly). Bad gas taken out of the picture, why would that be?

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

mr steve wayne 575 said: It appears that my old ignition switch has a red wire going straight from switch key to a panel of toggle switches as it looks like to give power to the panel. I am having trouble tracing Yellow with purple strip, and solid purple to see where they go. I would sure feel more comfortable finding a copy of my wiring diagram, but out of all I looked at still no luck. they have no yellow with red strip wire. Click to expand... Your yellow w/Purple stripe started out life as a Yellow w/red stripe. This is the wire that feeds power to the start circuit. Your red wire from the switch panel is feeding power to the ignition switch. The switch is not feeding power to the switch panel. The red wire powers the Purple wire when the ignition switch is turned to the on position. It also feeds power to the yellow w/red stripe when the ignition switch is turned further to the start position. The purple wire on the ignition switch is the feed to the engines ignition system on your set up. There is a standard for wiring.

mr steve wayne 575 said: It appears that my old ignition switch has a red wire going straight from switch key to a panel of toggle switches as it looks like to give power to the panel. I am having trouble tracing Yellow with purple strip, and solid purple to see where they go. I would sure feel more comfortable finding a copy of my wiring diagram, but out of all I looked at still no luck. they have no yellow with red strip wire. Click to expand... Your yellow w/Purple stripe started out life as a Yellow w/red stripe. This is the wire that feeds power to the start circuit. Your red wire from the switch panel is feeding power to the ignition switch. The switch is not feeding power to the switch panel. The red wire powers the Purple wire when the ignition switch is turned to the on position. It also feeds power to the yellow w/red stripe when the ignition switch is turned further to the start position. The purple wire on the ignition switch is the feed to the engines ignition system on your set up. There is a standard for wiring.

i'll check it over the weekend, but nothing changed (connection wise) since last run, battery terminals and wires terminals clean and tight.

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

Thank you, I will let you know how it works out. The problem is my old switch key is 1984 and has nothing on the back of it.

Thank you, I will let you know how it works out. The problem is my old switch key is 1984 and has nothing on the back of it.

Preferably....drain the tank, air and dry it out for winter storage. Siphon fuel into cans and mix in stabilizer. However, I must say you'd never catch me using 6 month old fuel, regardless of its stabilizer mixing. Using old fuel will cause far more dollars in repairs than the $100 you'd lose by disposing of the fuel.

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

Thank you Chris for that helpful chart of wire colors. Thank you very much, that will help me a lot. What I am missing is any diagram for my toggle switch's. I thank I replaced them correctly BUT: I have a black wire coming from my Gauges that looks like it goes to my switch panel or ignition and has a male connector that I found unattached. Do you have any idea if it would plug in to my ignition switch or one of the other switches on my panel? please advise, Thanks Steve

Thank you Chris for that helpful chart of wire colors. Thank you very much, that will help me a lot. What I am missing is any diagram for my toggle switch's. I thank I replaced them correctly BUT: I have a black wire coming from my Gauges that looks like it goes to my switch panel or ignition and has a male connector that I found unattached. Do you have any idea if it would plug in to my ignition switch or one of the other switches on my panel? please advise, Thanks Steve

The primary ID of almost all Yamaha outboard motors start with the number 6. I suspect that if you re-examine your data plate you will see that the PID is stated as 6J4L 1014870. But no matter. The kill switch and/or the key switch applies a ground to the CDI to stop the motor from running. Or starting. The white wire coming from the CDI gets its ground to stop the motor. If you disconnect the white wire bullet lead from the CDI and measure it for the presence of ground, on the wire side away from the CDI, there should be no ground. If there is a ground, with the key on and with the kill switch lanyard installed, there is a problem. Could be the switches or could be the white wire is chaffed to a ground point.

Human: I thought this would be simple. Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? Thanks Mr Steve Wayne 575 Assistant:

mr steve wayne 575 said: Thank you Chris for that helpful chart of wire colors. Thank you very much, that will help me a lot. What I am missing is any diagram for my toggle switch's. I thank I replaced them correctly BUT: I have a black wire coming from my Gauges that looks like it goes to my switch panel or ignition and has a male connector that I found unattached. Do you have any idea if it would plug in to my ignition switch or one of the other switches on my panel? please advise, Thanks Steve Click to expand... I forgot to mention the black wire with the male connection is coming from my RPM gauges

mr steve wayne 575 said: Thank you Chris for that helpful chart of wire colors. Thank you very much, that will help me a lot. What I am missing is any diagram for my toggle switch's. I thank I replaced them correctly BUT: I have a black wire coming from my Gauges that looks like it goes to my switch panel or ignition and has a male connector that I found unattached. Do you have any idea if it would plug in to my ignition switch or one of the other switches on my panel? please advise, Thanks Steve Click to expand... I forgot to mention the black wire with the male connection is coming from my RPM gauges

what kind of repairs? electrical, hull?

Human: Working on an electric fuel pump on a Yamaha 4.3L sterndrive. Looking for connector to fit the knurled post on the fuel pump. Assistant:

Crimp on ring terminal with adhesive-lined heat shrink insulation

Crimp on ring terminal with adhesive-lined heat shrink insulation

No powerhead must be taken right apart.-----In my opinion you should invest in a manual to see if you and your garage / neighbors / helpers / tool box etc are up to this kind of work.

Human: Working on an electric fuel pump on a Yamaha 4.3L sterndrive. Looking for connector to fit the knurled post on the fuel pump. Assistant:

o2batsea said: Crimp on ring terminal with adhesive-lined heat shrink insulation Click to expand... Ayuh,.... I believe female bullet connectors will slip on those posts, 'n stay put,.....

o2batsea said: Crimp on ring terminal with adhesive-lined heat shrink insulation Click to expand... Ayuh,.... I believe female bullet connectors will slip on those posts, 'n stay put,.....

Tell me what you think!

Human: My project boat is: 1984 Sea Ray 5.6 Seville Cuddy Engine: 5.7 Ltr. 150ELPO 260 4 barrow GM 57LG5G1 Boat Number: SER92T760684-187101480-84 Bell House Number 14093638 (38) Alpha 1 Gen 1 That is all the info I can find about it. All electrical drawings I have look at does not match my boat. 1-I am looking for a boat owners manual showing a diagram that will show me how to wire up the toggle switch and the names of the switches. 2-Also can you direct me to where I could find a good owners manual for this boat that could show me the wiring harness for this boat that I have other issues with? Any direction or info would greatly be appreciated. I am having trouble finding information for this restoration project. Thank you very much Assistant:

Boat wiring is standardized across the industry. That is to say that wire colors for specific circuits are the same whether it's a Sea Ray, Trojan, Chris Craft, etc. The harness from the engine to the dashboard is also interchangeable, at least for a boat of your vintage. You can find these on eBay pretty easily. If you can find a wire diagram from a boat with similar engine and equipment, then you can extrapolate this to your particular boat. Any differences will be minor.

Boat wiring is standardized across the industry. That is to say that wire colors for specific circuits are the same whether it's a Sea Ray, Trojan, Chris Craft, etc. The harness from the engine to the dashboard is also interchangeable, at least for a boat of your vintage. You can find these on eBay pretty easily. If you can find a wire diagram from a boat with similar engine and equipment, then you can extrapolate this to your particular boat. Any differences will be minor.

Thanks for the reply, There's only five components to the pump on that lower unit, the impeller, impeller housing, housing insert,stainless plate and gasket are all brand new. As I mentioned in my original post, it was pumping on my first try and then stopped after a couple of minutes. What has me stumped is when I just test just the lower unit alone in a tub with a drill on the drive shaft, it doesn't shoot water out the top of the housing. Should it pump water when the lower unit is separated from the upper?

Human: My project boat is: 1984 Sea Ray 5.6 Seville Cuddy Engine: 5.7 Ltr. 150ELPO 260 4 barrow GM 57LG5G1 Boat Number: SER92T760684-187101480-84 Bell House Number 14093638 (38) Alpha 1 Gen 1 That is all the info I can find about it. All electrical drawings I have look at does not match my boat. 1-I am looking for a boat owners manual showing a diagram that will show me how to wire up the toggle switch and the names of the switches. 2-Also can you direct me to where I could find a good owners manual for this boat that could show me the wiring harness for this boat that I have other issues with? Any direction or info would greatly be appreciated. I am having trouble finding information for this restoration project. Thank you very much Assistant:

sounds like a mercruiser 260 with an alpha drive...there are many engine schematics posted in the mercruiser section - just search for them. For the searay specifics, you would be better off going to one of the sea ray specific forums - google is your friend for those as well.

sounds like a mercruiser 260 with an alpha drive...there are many engine schematics posted in the mercruiser section - just search for them. For the searay specifics, you would be better off going to one of the sea ray specific forums - google is your friend for those as well.

That's it, thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. This is my first boat and I'm learning new things everyday... Ok, so my understanding is that this part is only used to check if the motor is fully up or down. On mine, the little plastic bit is stuck and doesn't move as the motor is tilt up or down. Can this cause some problems down the road or can I just leave it as is ?

Human: 1997 Fisher fish and ski. I'm trying to cleanup the old wiring. There is a small 2 inch long 1 inch dia. cylinder electronic component wired to the ignition switch. Any idea what it might be? Do I need it? There's another one kinda like that next to it wired to a switch. What could it be? Do I need it? 150 hp mercury carburetor. I removed the auto oiling system and the idle stab component. Using 50:1 fuel mixture so I don't need any alarms etc. Previous owners messed with the wiring so I'm bypassing most of it. Nav lights are now working Bilge pump now works Aerator pumps now work Fish finders work Depth finder works. Trolling motor works Rewiring the boat is out of the quesition. I'm using this boat for fishing only. Assistant:

need a picture of this mystery object

need a picture of this mystery object

What should it test at? A certain voltage? Thank you for all the help!!

Human: 1997 Fisher fish and ski. I'm trying to cleanup the old wiring. There is a small 2 inch long 1 inch dia. cylinder electronic component wired to the ignition switch. Any idea what it might be? Do I need it? There's another one kinda like that next to it wired to a switch. What could it be? Do I need it? 150 hp mercury carburetor. I removed the auto oiling system and the idle stab component. Using 50:1 fuel mixture so I don't need any alarms etc. Previous owners messed with the wiring so I'm bypassing most of it. Nav lights are now working Bilge pump now works Aerator pumps now work Fish finders work Depth finder works. Trolling motor works Rewiring the boat is out of the quesition. I'm using this boat for fishing only. Assistant:

I tried to upload but it would not happen. I'll try again.

I tried to upload but it would not happen. I'll try again.

What should it test at? A certain voltage? Thank you for all the help!!

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

Ayuh,...... What SLOTS, Where,..?? Generally speakin', the light switch is powered from the battery, not the key switch,.....

Ayuh,...... What SLOTS, Where,..?? Generally speakin', the light switch is powered from the battery, not the key switch,.....

The primary ID of almost all Yamaha outboard motors start with the number 6. I suspect that if you re-examine your data plate you will see that the PID is stated as 6J4L 1014870. But no matter. The kill switch and/or the key switch applies a ground to the CDI to stop the motor from running. Or starting. The white wire coming from the CDI gets its ground to stop the motor. If you disconnect the white wire bullet lead from the CDI and measure it for the presence of ground, on the wire side away from the CDI, there should be no ground. If there is a ground, with the key on and with the kill switch lanyard installed, there is a problem. Could be the switches or could be the white wire is chaffed to a ground point.

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

The RED GREEN night lights. You know the 3 foot long tube you insert into the slot at the rear of the boat.....and front. Are those female connections supposed to be hot all the time or just when you turn the ignition key to on?

The RED GREEN night lights. You know the 3 foot long tube you insert into the slot at the rear of the boat.....and front. Are those female connections supposed to be hot all the time or just when you turn the ignition key to on?

one more question about the trim. What is this? It's above the trim motor. The wires that run from this are not hooked up to anything at the battery end

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

the removeable NAV light sockets are typically powered by a switch, which is fed from the battery via a fuse/breaker...independent of the ignition circuit...

the removeable NAV light sockets are typically powered by a switch, which is fed from the battery via a fuse/breaker...independent of the ignition circuit...

.....

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

Ok I just bought a new fuse panel to replace the old and will try to clean up the mess caused by previous owners. Looks Like fun. Old wiring does not help.

Ok I just bought a new fuse panel to replace the old and will try to clean up the mess caused by previous owners. Looks Like fun. Old wiring does not help.

The voltage applied by the CDI assembly to the primary side of the coil is 95 ~ 190 volts. But only for a nanosecond.

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

I agree with makomark, lights, radio, bilge pump should all be powered with a switch that way you can sit in the middle of a lake at night with your at anchor lights on and the engine off. You mentioned old wiring, that also might also be part of your problem. Your problem may be corrosion, poor ground, faulty switch. Are you getting 12volts to the fuse panel? Are you getting 12volts to the switch? Any connections in the circuit? If so pull them apart and check for corrosion. Any crusty brittle wires or sections or sections of wiring that are brittle? Any inline fuses? Pull them apart and check for corrosion. Battery posts nice and shiny? I hate checking for electrical gremlins, you need to be a contortionist. Take your time and approach the job in a methodical way.

I agree with makomark, lights, radio, bilge pump should all be powered with a switch that way you can sit in the middle of a lake at night with your at anchor lights on and the engine off. You mentioned old wiring, that also might also be part of your problem. Your problem may be corrosion, poor ground, faulty switch. Are you getting 12volts to the fuse panel? Are you getting 12volts to the switch? Any connections in the circuit? If so pull them apart and check for corrosion. Any crusty brittle wires or sections or sections of wiring that are brittle? Any inline fuses? Pull them apart and check for corrosion. Battery posts nice and shiny? I hate checking for electrical gremlins, you need to be a contortionist. Take your time and approach the job in a methodical way.

If the gouges are just in the gel coat, you can fill them with fairing compound and then do the last layer in gel coat. Some look a bit deeper. For the star, you can do as planned or grind the whole thing out and build it back up with a few layers of cloth, depending upon how deep it goes. There are LOTs of 'how to' articles on many marine www sites. Probably plenty of books at the local library, too. Final thought - many of the "epoxy makers" have how-to's on their www sites - think West systems has the basic with the detailed steps in a book.

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

Yea good grief what a mess. I think this boat was left out in the open even though the interior is in good shape but there is corrosion and I have been repairing wires. I have all the bilge fish tank pumps working and I'm working my way forward. Nav lights are next. I hate trying to figure out other peoples wiring strategies.

Yea good grief what a mess. I think this boat was left out in the open even though the interior is in good shape but there is corrosion and I have been repairing wires. I have all the bilge fish tank pumps working and I'm working my way forward. Nav lights are next. I hate trying to figure out other peoples wiring strategies.

Are you sure you are willing to help me for any questions that I will going to ask you...are you familiar with boat part online?

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

i would suggest using only marine grade wire, decent crimps with a matching tool, and double walled heat shrink.... And it won't hurt anything to use the AB&YC wiring colors to simplify things in the future...

i would suggest using only marine grade wire, decent crimps with a matching tool, and double walled heat shrink.... And it won't hurt anything to use the AB&YC wiring colors to simplify things in the future...

Get a factory harness with the appropriately colored wires...its the only way to go if you want to sell it in the future...not only are the colors important but you will find the copper under the insulation is not readily available at your favorite big box store...

Human: Mine stopped working so I'm trouble shooting to see what's going on. Are the SLOTS for these lights always hot or does the power come from when the key is turned to on? Assistant:

Yea I do use good crimps and heat shrink. Problem is what the previous owner(s) did, which is what I'm taking my time to figure out. These people should leave it alone if they can't even wire a one button on off nav light. I will fix it but it will take time which I have.

Yea I do use good crimps and heat shrink. Problem is what the previous owner(s) did, which is what I'm taking my time to figure out. These people should leave it alone if they can't even wire a one button on off nav light. I will fix it but it will take time which I have.

This is why I need a wiring diagram that covers whatever kind of mod etc this engine has lol

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

I have no idea what motor you are working on.----Please do tell.-----Posting more pictures might help YOU as well.

I have no idea what motor you are working on.----Please do tell.-----Posting more pictures might help YOU as well.

ClassicAQ said: Admittedly I'm not familiar with how that lever functions. But if all parts are where they should be then perhaps the lever is supposed to have a lil play. What makes you sure the clicking of the lever moving up and down is the clicking you hear when engine is running? Click to expand... I'm not 100% sure, but the sound appearing when I manually jiggle the lever upp and down, are very similar to the sound when engine is running. Do you have another idea what could cause a ticking sound?

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

racerone said: I have no idea what motor you are working on.----Please do tell.-----Posting more pictures might help YOU as well. Click to expand... Ooh, sorry. It's a carburetted, FWC, PCM 5.7 with Mercruiser I/O in a 1987 Slickcraft. A couple more pics of the motor. the device in question is located on top of the fuel filter on the starboard front side of the engine:

racerone said: I have no idea what motor you are working on.----Please do tell.-----Posting more pictures might help YOU as well. Click to expand... Ooh, sorry. It's a carburetted, FWC, PCM 5.7 with Mercruiser I/O in a 1987 Slickcraft. A couple more pics of the motor. the device in question is located on top of the fuel filter on the starboard front side of the engine:

Your welcome. Sorry to hear it's the CDI, they are not cheap. However, used ones in good shape are sold on websites like eBay, if you rather not buy new. Good luck.

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

starboard side https://photos.app.goo.gl/JHHLFpCJdAjw7zdZ8

starboard side https://photos.app.goo.gl/JHHLFpCJdAjw7zdZ8

I suspect that your permanent connection is somewhat different from your test connection. If the white wire being grounded stops the motor then the CDI is working. For some reason the CDI (white wire) is not being grounded from the key switch or kill switch. What type of control box? The side mount type with the key switch and kill switch?

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

Ayuh,..... Donno what that is with the single wire on it,...... The slave solenoid is the other thingy with the other red cables attached to it,.....

Ayuh,..... Donno what that is with the single wire on it,...... The slave solenoid is the other thingy with the other red cables attached to it,.....

Hello, Thank you for your reply. I have bought some 3/4 inch marine plywood as I have worked with wood quite a bit anyway. Still not.sure if I should fibreglass it or just paint it though. Matt

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

bondo said: Ayuh,..... Donno what that is with the single wire on it,...... The slave solenoid is the other thingy with the other red cables attached to it,..... Click to expand... Pardon my ignorance but what is a "slave solenoid" Also, the other thingy that has both red wires tagged to one side has a reset button on the back and appears to be a thermal or overcurrent protection. The LM318s in my Silverton had one each sticking out of the plastic cover for the ignition electrics on the engine.

bondo said: Ayuh,..... Donno what that is with the single wire on it,...... The slave solenoid is the other thingy with the other red cables attached to it,..... Click to expand... Pardon my ignorance but what is a "slave solenoid" Also, the other thingy that has both red wires tagged to one side has a reset button on the back and appears to be a thermal or overcurrent protection. The LM318s in my Silverton had one each sticking out of the plastic cover for the ignition electrics on the engine.

I'm getting fuel in the cylinders. Plugs aren't firing. deepsea21 said: Have you been running ethanol blended gas in it? If so that is probably your problem. By choking the engine you were manually feeding more fuel to it through the carb that was probably clogged and couldn't deliver enough fuel without choking it. Buy a couple of cans of jet spray carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap and the outboard service center is expensive). Pull the carb, take it all apart (everything you can take apart including the little brass fuel jet and fuel bowl taken out & off) and blast that carb cleaner through every orifice you can find. Check the little hole in that brass fuel jet and make sure it is perfectly clean and clear. If it isn't, run a little piece of COPPER wire through it (softer than brass) and clean out any gum the carb cleaner spray couldn't blast away. If there is old ethanol blended fuel in your tank get rid of it. How you dispose of it is your own business (have a trash pile that needs burned?) Put fresh fuel in, hook up the fuel line and pump the bulb with someone back by the engine to catch the fuel in a cup as it squirts out from the fuel line that would feed the carb you've pulled and have cleaned. Keep pumping and squirting to get all that old fuel out of the lines. Put it all back together and then re-pump the fuel bulb until you get resistance and it is hard as that means the fuel bowl is filled. Then, see if she fires up. An engine is simple... you need air, spark and fuel. Click to expand...

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

swampyankee said: Pardon my ignorance but what is a "slave solenoid" Also, the other thingy that has both red wires tagged to one side has a reset button on the back and appears to be a thermal or overcurrent protection. The LM318s in my Silverton had one each sticking out of the plastic cover for the ignition electrics on the engine. Click to expand... Ayuh,..... If the thingy with the wires on one post, has a reset button on it, it's a circuit breaker,...... Boats use a slave solenoid to excite the starter's solenoid, rather than straight from the key switch, so that the starter's solenoid gets full battery voltage, 'n not the voltage loss runnin' power twice the length of the boat on little tiny wires, to, 'n from the key switch,.....

swampyankee said: Pardon my ignorance but what is a "slave solenoid" Also, the other thingy that has both red wires tagged to one side has a reset button on the back and appears to be a thermal or overcurrent protection. The LM318s in my Silverton had one each sticking out of the plastic cover for the ignition electrics on the engine. Click to expand... Ayuh,..... If the thingy with the wires on one post, has a reset button on it, it's a circuit breaker,...... Boats use a slave solenoid to excite the starter's solenoid, rather than straight from the key switch, so that the starter's solenoid gets full battery voltage, 'n not the voltage loss runnin' power twice the length of the boat on little tiny wires, to, 'n from the key switch,.....

makomark said: If the steering box is mounted correctly, I'd suspect one of two things occurred: 1) the steering wheel was not oriented correctly when the cable was installed or 2) the "link" at the outdrive wasn't adjusted to "align" the system when going straight. If the link you have is fixed, I'd re-install the steering cable per the teleflex directions (most are on the web if you search some). Click to expand... Ayuh,.... Or, install a Destroyer type steerin' wheel where it don't matter,....

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

bondo said: Ayuh,..... If the thingy with the wires on one post, has a reset button on it, it's a circuit breaker,...... Boats use a slave solenoid to excite the starter's solenoid, rather than straight from the key switch, so that the starter's solenoid gets full battery voltage, 'n not the voltage loss runnin' power twice the length of the boat on little tiny wires, to, 'n from the key switch,..... Click to expand... Ok, so the signal goes from the key switch to a relay (slave solenoid) which powers the contacts on the starter solenoid? I don't recall seeing that on any other boat I had but ok...

bondo said: Ayuh,..... If the thingy with the wires on one post, has a reset button on it, it's a circuit breaker,...... Boats use a slave solenoid to excite the starter's solenoid, rather than straight from the key switch, so that the starter's solenoid gets full battery voltage, 'n not the voltage loss runnin' power twice the length of the boat on little tiny wires, to, 'n from the key switch,..... Click to expand... Ok, so the signal goes from the key switch to a relay (slave solenoid) which powers the contacts on the starter solenoid? I don't recall seeing that on any other boat I had but ok...

Yeah...That’s great news! Thanks.

Human: I just got this boat home and need to sort it our a bit. By the attached pic, someone has bypassed an overload switch of some sort Klixon switch with red wires attached to one terminal). What was it supposed to protect? And what is the other, similar looking device with heavy red wires attached? Assistant:

used on almost all boats due to the length of the wires from the helm to the motor

used on almost all boats due to the length of the wires from the helm to the motor

Yamaha calls for the flywheel bolts to not be reused. From your service manual. Also in the bulletin.

Human: Want to measure primary resistance on a ignition coil but I'm unsure my multimeter will do that. .05 - .15 How do I do this? Assistant:

Highly likely your meter won't have much accuracy in that span....typically, the primary side rarely fails on a standard ignition coil unless abused. If you still want to make the measurement, I'd suggest an indirect measurement: add another resistor to the primary, in series, and measure the voltage drop across it when you hook up the resistor and the coil to a battery. the voltage measurement is likely to be the most accurate measurement your meter can make...

Highly likely your meter won't have much accuracy in that span....typically, the primary side rarely fails on a standard ignition coil unless abused. If you still want to make the measurement, I'd suggest an indirect measurement: add another resistor to the primary, in series, and measure the voltage drop across it when you hook up the resistor and the coil to a battery. the voltage measurement is likely to be the most accurate measurement your meter can make...

I have a dual battery system and a decent alternator so I'm not worried about that, it is the wiring from there, I am not sure if 4 gauge power lines will be sufficient ...?/?

Human: Want to measure primary resistance on a ignition coil but I'm unsure my multimeter will do that. .05 - .15 How do I do this? Assistant:

Actually I bought klein mm400 and took the measurements. I got .1 for the primary and 256 ohms for the secondary. Specs Primary = .05 - .15 and Secondary = 225 - 325 So I think the coils are healthy

Actually I bought klein mm400 and took the measurements. I got .1 for the primary and 256 ohms for the secondary. Specs Primary = .05 - .15 and Secondary = 225 - 325 So I think the coils are healthy

Depends on your ability and if you want to follow suggestions / instructions.----These motors are simple and easy to work on.

Human: Want to measure primary resistance on a ignition coil but I'm unsure my multimeter will do that. .05 - .15 How do I do this? Assistant:

Agreed with your conclusion.

Agreed with your conclusion.

When does it begin to alarm? Assuming alarm is not oil level related, if alarm triggers when key is turned to ON, then likely volt issue. Check your starting battery is holding full charge. When engine will not throttle over 2k with alarm...this is called limp mode, to protect engine from further damage.

Human: 2004 Nitro with 225 Optimax. Problem started recently. If ignition switch turned to "on" I got beeping like an alarm was triggered. When turned to "start" I got nothing. Of course motor won't start and would also lose power to tilt and trim. What is puzzling is the fact that so far it doesn't seem to last forever. Sometimes I try the ignition and the motor starts as if nothing is wrong. Its like a crap shoot as to whether or not it will start. If it don't, I'm dead in the water except for trolling motor. At first I thought maybe neutral safety switch, but now I'm not so sure. Maybe ignition or another switch? Appreciate any insights. Assistant:

Ayuh,..... Sounds like corroded connections,..... Start at the battery, 'n clean the terminals, 'n cable lugs on both cables, on both ends,....

Ayuh,..... Sounds like corroded connections,..... Start at the battery, 'n clean the terminals, 'n cable lugs on both cables, on both ends,....

After experiencing their four strokes I have gone off Yamaha as a brand, but we have had 6 of those SWS2 engines at the 200hp, 175hp and 150hp ratings in a self drive hire fleet and they are about as good as it gets for ease of maintenance and reliability. One thing when cold starting them is to make sure that the choke operates when you push the key in when in the ON position. You will hear the click from the engine. They need that choke for the first cold start each day, but after that should start perfectly all day without the choke. The other thing that they all seem to like at a cold start is a bit of throttle, so lift the fast idle lever until you have maybe 1/4 to 1/3 throttle for a cold start. Once you get the technique sorted they are usually very good starting engines, but if you don't use teh choke properly they can be frustrating when cold.

Human: 2004 Nitro with 225 Optimax. Problem started recently. If ignition switch turned to "on" I got beeping like an alarm was triggered. When turned to "start" I got nothing. Of course motor won't start and would also lose power to tilt and trim. What is puzzling is the fact that so far it doesn't seem to last forever. Sometimes I try the ignition and the motor starts as if nothing is wrong. Its like a crap shoot as to whether or not it will start. If it don't, I'm dead in the water except for trolling motor. At first I thought maybe neutral safety switch, but now I'm not so sure. Maybe ignition or another switch? Appreciate any insights. Assistant:

I checked and did have some questionable connections with some corrosion and with one bad ground wire connector at the battery terminal. I replaced it and cleaned and tightened the others. Hope that takes care of the problem. All under the cowl were clean and tight. Thanks for the input.

I checked and did have some questionable connections with some corrosion and with one bad ground wire connector at the battery terminal. I replaced it and cleaned and tightened the others. Hope that takes care of the problem. All under the cowl were clean and tight. Thanks for the input.

I'm near Austin Texas. Any good source for looking at motor weights? I'm looking for the difference in my 2-cycle 50 hp and a 4-stroke 60 hp.

Human: I am replacing my ignition switch which has screw on connections with a new Sierra push to choke switch. Should I use a thread locking compound or some other dressing on the screw threads. I understand Locktite is an insulator, but there appears to be some type of thread dressing on the old screws. There are no lock washers etc. in the new unit. Thanks and be safe everyone! Assistant:

Nope,....

Nope,....

It does sound like a fuel problem so just follow the system from one end to the other. Start with the tank: is the vent open properly? Are the valves in the bulb in the fuel line working correctly? Are the fittings on the fuel line seated properly? You've already done the filter so next is the fuel pump. Make sure it is sealed well, the reed valves and clean and correctly aligned and the membranes aren't torn or frayed. The final step in the fuel system is going to be carburettors which may need a clean. Also, any chance it is an overheat situation? Stuart

Human: My Merc 170 quit starting, I can jump start it at the solenoid and I can jump start it at the ign. sw. with the red and yel/rd wire lifted. ( The engine is just turning over not running. This tells me the start wiring is good thru the neutral safety sw. to the solenoid.) When I replace the wires on the switch, I get nothing.....when I lift the purple run wire off the sw. the engine will turn over with the key? when i replace the purple wire on the sw. I get nothing...could the purple wire be grounded some where?? It has an electric choke on the engine...stuck in dry dock..Thanks for the help P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good. Assistant:

Ayuh,..... Sounds like a bad switch,..... The purple wire is the ignition circuit,.... Check for power at the coil's (+) tiny terminal,.....

Ayuh,..... Sounds like a bad switch,..... The purple wire is the ignition circuit,.... Check for power at the coil's (+) tiny terminal,.....

chawk_man said: Yep - up here in my neck of the woods in rural Eastern Virginia (Chesapeake and lower Potomac) there are a lot of boats, but no decent fiberglass repair shops except the auto body shops. Just make sure they have experience in doing those types of repairs, and that the problem is cosmetic, not structural. Click to expand... a great job not only did they repair/patch the outside, they also repaired/patched the insides as well. thanks for the reply

Human: My Merc 170 quit starting, I can jump start it at the solenoid and I can jump start it at the ign. sw. with the red and yel/rd wire lifted. ( The engine is just turning over not running. This tells me the start wiring is good thru the neutral safety sw. to the solenoid.) When I replace the wires on the switch, I get nothing.....when I lift the purple run wire off the sw. the engine will turn over with the key? when i replace the purple wire on the sw. I get nothing...could the purple wire be grounded some where?? It has an electric choke on the engine...stuck in dry dock..Thanks for the help P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good. Assistant:

I checked the sw. and I can read voltage thru it , when the purple is lifted...further isolating the purple by the electric choke and at the coil.( with the key on and purple connected, I could feel the purple wire getting hot) does that mean the resistance wire is working? Thanks

I checked the sw. and I can read voltage thru it , when the purple is lifted...further isolating the purple by the electric choke and at the coil.( with the key on and purple connected, I could feel the purple wire getting hot) does that mean the resistance wire is working? Thanks

makomark said: I'v e never seen anybody use a "tongue stretcher" as you described. For just launching and recovery, the thin walled stuff my work...you need to check the physical properties of the material you actually use to see if it is suitable...I wouldn't use a "generic table" unless there was a significant surplus margin...the worst case would likely be due to the dynamics when actually pulling out... I'd also suggest being real careful trying to install it on any incline...doing that on a somewhat level parking lot would be much safer... Click to expand... Mark thank you for the response. I found out about this mod while coming across a thread of sailboat owners who use these extensions. Some of the owners have to use them even on a standard launch ramp because their boats sit so high off the trailer, and have to back in very deep into lake to launch. Hope I can get this to work as I'd feel much safer if my back tires didn't even have to touch the water

Human: My Merc 170 quit starting, I can jump start it at the solenoid and I can jump start it at the ign. sw. with the red and yel/rd wire lifted. ( The engine is just turning over not running. This tells me the start wiring is good thru the neutral safety sw. to the solenoid.) When I replace the wires on the switch, I get nothing.....when I lift the purple run wire off the sw. the engine will turn over with the key? when i replace the purple wire on the sw. I get nothing...could the purple wire be grounded some where?? It has an electric choke on the engine...stuck in dry dock..Thanks for the help P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good. Assistant:

ourgang said: ... P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good.... Click to expand... If you did that test with a multimeter on the ohms scale, you didn't prove out anything....you need to test the switch with much higher current (amps, not milliamps) to verify it. the purple wire getting 'hot' means a bad connection or a bad wire...

ourgang said: ... P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good.... Click to expand... If you did that test with a multimeter on the ohms scale, you didn't prove out anything....you need to test the switch with much higher current (amps, not milliamps) to verify it. the purple wire getting 'hot' means a bad connection or a bad wire...

What is the voltage at the battery cables,motor end?

Human: My Merc 170 quit starting, I can jump start it at the solenoid and I can jump start it at the ign. sw. with the red and yel/rd wire lifted. ( The engine is just turning over not running. This tells me the start wiring is good thru the neutral safety sw. to the solenoid.) When I replace the wires on the switch, I get nothing.....when I lift the purple run wire off the sw. the engine will turn over with the key? when i replace the purple wire on the sw. I get nothing...could the purple wire be grounded some where?? It has an electric choke on the engine...stuck in dry dock..Thanks for the help P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good. Assistant:

Hello, I was able to read the ohms on the purple resistance wire from the harness connector, by the red breaker button, to the coil. I separated the two wires going to the + on the coil and read 1.4 ohms without the electric choke connected. When I reconnected all but the choke, it was still a no go. The engine will crank when I lift the purple wire at the key sw....but nothing when I reconnect and try again...I'm going to run a temporary purple from the key sw. to the coil and see what happens...

Hello, I was able to read the ohms on the purple resistance wire from the harness connector, by the red breaker button, to the coil. I separated the two wires going to the + on the coil and read 1.4 ohms without the electric choke connected. When I reconnected all but the choke, it was still a no go. The engine will crank when I lift the purple wire at the key sw....but nothing when I reconnect and try again...I'm going to run a temporary purple from the key sw. to the coil and see what happens...

Yes. Of course.

Human: My Merc 170 quit starting, I can jump start it at the solenoid and I can jump start it at the ign. sw. with the red and yel/rd wire lifted. ( The engine is just turning over not running. This tells me the start wiring is good thru the neutral safety sw. to the solenoid.) When I replace the wires on the switch, I get nothing.....when I lift the purple run wire off the sw. the engine will turn over with the key? when i replace the purple wire on the sw. I get nothing...could the purple wire be grounded some where?? It has an electric choke on the engine...stuck in dry dock..Thanks for the help P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good. Assistant:

I'd be more inclined to check for voltage drops, from the battery to the switch... You may also want to separate the main engine harness plug...sometimes the pins/sockets corrode and cause these types of issues...

I'd be more inclined to check for voltage drops, from the battery to the switch... You may also want to separate the main engine harness plug...sometimes the pins/sockets corrode and cause these types of issues...

delmo777 said: I'm pretty sure it's a 170 mercruiser but I have to delve in a bit more, the motor is missing the valve covers so I'm not sure, could be 200 mercruiser. Click to expand... The 200 Mercruiser would be the only version to have a 4bbl carb. on it

Human: I have a Cranchi-41 (with 2 VOLVO PENTA KAD44) and in the last few days the "service batteries" run out of charge after a few hours of sailing... My mechanical has been checking, battery to battery and says they are good, He also checked the alternator in progress and says it loads, but what is certain is that after 2 hours of sailing they are very weak (the Radar stops working, I am unable to use the toilet pump, the flaps do not go up/down, etc. ...). Can someone give me a tip/light on what to do more? Assistant:

I'm kind of dumb. What runs the alternator on a sail boat ??

I'm kind of dumb. What runs the alternator on a sail boat ??

Do you know where I can download one? Called Yamaha, does not have one. Thanks

Human: I have a Cranchi-41 (with 2 VOLVO PENTA KAD44) and in the last few days the "service batteries" run out of charge after a few hours of sailing... My mechanical has been checking, battery to battery and says they are good, He also checked the alternator in progress and says it loads, but what is certain is that after 2 hours of sailing they are very weak (the Radar stops working, I am unable to use the toilet pump, the flaps do not go up/down, etc. ...). Can someone give me a tip/light on what to do more? Assistant:

When you use the engines how long do you run them ?----I know from my sailing days that 12 volt fridges use lots of battery capacity quickly.-----When racing , the race rules allow for running engine in neutral for battery charging.----Has to be documented.

When you use the engines how long do you run them ?----I know from my sailing days that 12 volt fridges use lots of battery capacity quickly.-----When racing , the race rules allow for running engine in neutral for battery charging.----Has to be documented.

Im in the same camp that fuel is often the issue. I did recheck all the fuel systems short of pulling the carbs again and checking them and the reed valves. That said, I ran last night in the dark and after about 5 minutes of running the #2 ignition coil is making a very small spark right in the crux where the plug wire meets the coil. It is a very faint spark but its there. I tried resettigg the wire and it didnt help. Hopefully this is the issue and I can get on with my life. Will report when new coil is installed

Human: Quick question (I'm not at my boat today). Are all the fuse block terminals hot all the time (with key on and key off)? Also when I turn my battery switch off, does this kill the power to the fuse box? Thanks in advance 2006 Sea Ray 200 Select Assistant:

Ayuh,..... Hard to say, could be either,.... Test it with a test light or multimeter,.....

Ayuh,..... Hard to say, could be either,.... Test it with a test light or multimeter,.....

Here are Steve's (Rot Doctor) comments on why this repair is safe and sane: CPES is thinned epoxy. I have no argument there. But is definitely NOT "no good". I've read the threads you've given me, and as far as I can tell, there are several arguments against using thinned epoxies. 1., West Systems published an article saying not to, 2., I've used thinned epoxies like Git Rot and they didn't work, and simply, it won't work (no reason given). I'll dismiss the last one, and concentrate on the other two. First, I agree that Git Rot doesn't work well. There are several reasons, but I'd like to point out that Git Rot is NOT a thinned epoxy. We compared Git Rot to our CPES, and found CPES significantly better. Git Rot doesn't penetrate nearly as well as CPES. We are convinced that this is the key to a durable repair to rotted wood. Secondly, West Systems says that you shouldn't. West Systems is a great company, if you are not going to use our epoxies, which I feel have certain advantages over theirs, I have no problem endorsing their resins. And for the applications that they are discussing in the article, I would agree. One shouldn't use a thinned epoxy. But in the article, they are discussing wetting out fiberglass, and coating good wood. They are *not* talking about treating rotted wood. I would never advocate using a solvent epoxy to wet out fiberglass. But I am willing to make an argument for it's use as a primer, especially on rotted wood, but even on good wood, in many instances. Their argument that solvent loaded epoxies extend the full strength time is valid. But that does not mean that the CPES doesn't provide benefits which a 100% epoxy cannot provide, especially in rotted wood. Only that you have to wait longer to get these benefits. Various people were arguing that your repair was only a patch, not a repair, and that it wouldn't last. Again, no reason given. Logically, I see two reasons that this would be true. First, if the repair itself was not as strong as the original, then normal use loads would cause failure. As epoxies are significantly stronger than the original polyester resins, then given an equal thickness of material, I can't see how this could be possible. And in my personal experience, it simply isn't. The second reason I can think of is if the rot were to continue somehow. Technically, even if this were true, then it would be a failure of the old, un-repaired section, not of the new section. But even this is unlikely, as the repaired area is no longer a conduit for moisture to the wood. And even an actively rotting piece of wood will stop rotting if it is dried out. Lastly, someone said that it will fail because you can't use polyester resin over epoxy resin. And this seems to be a common belief. But an erroneous one, in our experience. It is true that polyester resins don't stick to things all that well. But with proper application, polyesters will stick to cured epoxies as well as they will stick to any other surface. Perhaps this belief got started due to putting polyester resin over less than fully cured epoxy. I really don't know. I am going to send you a sample of our fine sawdust, soaked with our CPES. To me, it is as hard as plywood, or nearly so. It is actually more comparable to MDF (medium density fiberboard). I feel that it is quite sufficiently strong for the intended purpose. But you can be your own judge. Given what you have done, I have every confidence that your repair will be quite durable. It is ridiculous for anyone to say that they *know* that the poly repair will eventually fail. There is just no way that anyone can know that for certain. It will fail if the stress of operation exceeds the bond strength of the repair. Which I do *not* think will happen. I've been doing fiberglass repair since I was 17. Using both polyester resin and epoxy resin. I've seen the repair job that you did. And while it would've been a stronger repair using all epoxy resin, I would be surprised if it ever fails. Sometimes the inner skin is a structural part of the build. But in your case, the inner skin was so thin that it's purpose was more for moisture protection than strength. The structural part of the repair was done with epoxy, which is much stronger than the original.

Human: Having identified a fault with the voltage regulator I ordered a replacement. On receipt I found the part boxed with correct part number quoted, in this case 893640T01. Currently fitted regulator has 5 wires, namely 2 yellow, 1 black, 1 grey and 1 red. The part received has 6 wires. 5 are as per mine fitted with the correct connectors/plugs, but there is a sixth wire of a reddish/brown colour. The box it came in quotes some other part numbers for which this is supposedly a replacement for. Googling each of them, some of them are 5 wired, but a couple are 6. It looks a relatively easy thing to take off the old and fit the new, but i am no boat electrician! Just looking for some reassurance that the extra wire is indeed surplus to requirements in my case. Hopefully someone here has encountered this before? Assistant:

ISSUE RESOLVED. Sadly no advice received via the forum, but issue resolved via supplier of replacement part. The part I received does indeed fit other engine models and some of those engines require a 2nd 12v supply wire (reddy/brown colour). In my case I was advised to just ignore it. So i went ahead and fitted. Appears to work fine. Thought i would post here in case any other novices are faced with similar situ.

ISSUE RESOLVED. Sadly no advice received via the forum, but issue resolved via supplier of replacement part. The part I received does indeed fit other engine models and some of those engines require a 2nd 12v supply wire (reddy/brown colour). In my case I was advised to just ignore it. So i went ahead and fitted. Appears to work fine. Thought i would post here in case any other novices are faced with similar situ.

So I tried what you said to this afternoon and you were right. The voltage is dropping all the way down to around 4-5v on the solenoid when the key is in the start position and it does the same thing when it is touching the starter. It is holding around 12.6v at the battery when key is turned to start. So what exactly should I be looking for here? Had someone tell me today it could be my neutral safety switch but I don’t believe that’s it.

Human: Hey everyone, I am having electrical problems with the lights/bilge/radio/depthfinder/live wells and horn. I have power to the motor and gauges on the dash. I have check all fuses under the dash and they are good. I do have a light brown wire that is part of the ignition harness that has a circle connection on the end not connected to anything. It was just dangling under the dash. It seems like it should connect to the back of one of the gauges? Just to see if it was a disconnected ground I ran a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the wire, but didn't get power to anything. I have no clue were it connects. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem? The trolling motor does work when connected to battery. Assistant:

light brown is likely the TAN wire and usually goes to the warning horn...and I'd guess what you call a circle connection is a bullet connector... assuming the accessories in question are feed by the fuse block, do you have battery voltage at the input to the fuse block? (sometimes they use a MAIN switch that will isolate the fuse block...honestly its been a while since i was in one that old...if you have the +12VDC at the input to the fuse block and the fuses are good, then you need to make sure the ground wire(s) make it back to the battery.

light brown is likely the TAN wire and usually goes to the warning horn...and I'd guess what you call a circle connection is a bullet connector... assuming the accessories in question are feed by the fuse block, do you have battery voltage at the input to the fuse block? (sometimes they use a MAIN switch that will isolate the fuse block...honestly its been a while since i was in one that old...if you have the +12VDC at the input to the fuse block and the fuses are good, then you need to make sure the ground wire(s) make it back to the battery.

This look like more than chips. Those are deep gouges. In order to repair those properly they have to be ground out to a shallow bowl shape which will allow filling with glass mat. This is surfaced with fairing compound and finish sanded flush. Gel coat is applied and the whole area final sanded and polished. That's about a thousand bucks worth of damage there at least.

Human: Hey everyone, I am having electrical problems with the lights/bilge/radio/depthfinder/live wells and horn. I have power to the motor and gauges on the dash. I have check all fuses under the dash and they are good. I do have a light brown wire that is part of the ignition harness that has a circle connection on the end not connected to anything. It was just dangling under the dash. It seems like it should connect to the back of one of the gauges? Just to see if it was a disconnected ground I ran a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the wire, but didn't get power to anything. I have no clue were it connects. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem? The trolling motor does work when connected to battery. Assistant:

makomark said: light brown is likely the TAN wire and usually goes to the warning horn...and I'd guess what you call a circle connection is a bullet connector... assuming the accessories in question are feed by the fuse block, do you have battery voltage at the input to the fuse block? (sometimes they use a MAIN switch that will isolate the fuse block...honestly its been a while since i was in one that old...if you have the +12VDC at the input to the fuse block and the fuses are good, then you need to make sure the ground wire(s) make it back to the battery. Click to expand... Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure the horn had both wires connected, it is right under the dash as well. I didn't even think to check the fuse block for voltage, I'll get out the multimeter and check it out. There is a 12v power plug I could check for voltage as well. Will there be one main ground running back to the battery? There are two black bullet connectors I connected to the negative terminal when I hooked up the battery.

makomark said: light brown is likely the TAN wire and usually goes to the warning horn...and I'd guess what you call a circle connection is a bullet connector... assuming the accessories in question are feed by the fuse block, do you have battery voltage at the input to the fuse block? (sometimes they use a MAIN switch that will isolate the fuse block...honestly its been a while since i was in one that old...if you have the +12VDC at the input to the fuse block and the fuses are good, then you need to make sure the ground wire(s) make it back to the battery. Click to expand... Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure the horn had both wires connected, it is right under the dash as well. I didn't even think to check the fuse block for voltage, I'll get out the multimeter and check it out. There is a 12v power plug I could check for voltage as well. Will there be one main ground running back to the battery? There are two black bullet connectors I connected to the negative terminal when I hooked up the battery.

Bottom pic near the top arrow....thats the fuel line, which is easy to distinguish from other hoses from its thicker rubber wall diameter. After reinstalling, clamp of the 2 fuel hoses you know to be fuel then run engine. If fuel isn't being delivered to that 1 carb then engine won't stay running or run at all. Or pull off the 2 plug caps from known fuel delivered cylinders, run engine off that 1 cylinder. If the carb is getting fuel it'll run.

Human: Hey everyone, I am having electrical problems with the lights/bilge/radio/depthfinder/live wells and horn. I have power to the motor and gauges on the dash. I have check all fuses under the dash and they are good. I do have a light brown wire that is part of the ignition harness that has a circle connection on the end not connected to anything. It was just dangling under the dash. It seems like it should connect to the back of one of the gauges? Just to see if it was a disconnected ground I ran a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the wire, but didn't get power to anything. I have no clue were it connects. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem? The trolling motor does work when connected to battery. Assistant:

Ok, broke out the multimeter and tested the fuse panel with the ignition key turned on. Got nothing, on the picture I tested the red/purple connection point and the connections on the other side of the panel with the black wires connected, assuming those are ground. The second picture shows the tan wire and the harness it is connected to. As you can also see in the first picture the horn has its own separate black and white wires. Tomorrow if I get the chance (helping someone move) I will run a ground directly from the panel to the negative terminal of the battery and check again. Getting late tonight.

Ok, broke out the multimeter and tested the fuse panel with the ignition key turned on. Got nothing, on the picture I tested the red/purple connection point and the connections on the other side of the panel with the black wires connected, assuming those are ground. The second picture shows the tan wire and the harness it is connected to. As you can also see in the first picture the horn has its own separate black and white wires. Tomorrow if I get the chance (helping someone move) I will run a ground directly from the panel to the negative terminal of the battery and check again. Getting late tonight.

No prob. I was hoping my previous response would be accurate to your model/year, not knowing the model/year. But yep, your engine uses the oil harness as the sender. And they ain't cheap either. And I now know more about algae then I could have hoped for. Good to know, thanks.

Human: Hey everyone, I am having electrical problems with the lights/bilge/radio/depthfinder/live wells and horn. I have power to the motor and gauges on the dash. I have check all fuses under the dash and they are good. I do have a light brown wire that is part of the ignition harness that has a circle connection on the end not connected to anything. It was just dangling under the dash. It seems like it should connect to the back of one of the gauges? Just to see if it was a disconnected ground I ran a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the wire, but didn't get power to anything. I have no clue were it connects. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem? The trolling motor does work when connected to battery. Assistant:

your fuse panel should be hot w/o the key ON.... I'd suggest using your test light with the ground side connected to the battery...and then get the panel 'hot'....don't understand why they have TWO wires (assuming) to 'feed' the block. Can't tell from the pic what is on the LH side of the block...sometimes they provide a Ground bar, sometimes they don't. If you don't have a common grounding point, for the accessories, you may want to consider it.

your fuse panel should be hot w/o the key ON.... I'd suggest using your test light with the ground side connected to the battery...and then get the panel 'hot'....don't understand why they have TWO wires (assuming) to 'feed' the block. Can't tell from the pic what is on the LH side of the block...sometimes they provide a Ground bar, sometimes they don't. If you don't have a common grounding point, for the accessories, you may want to consider it.

Carbureted or fuel injected?

Human: Hey everyone, I am having electrical problems with the lights/bilge/radio/depthfinder/live wells and horn. I have power to the motor and gauges on the dash. I have check all fuses under the dash and they are good. I do have a light brown wire that is part of the ignition harness that has a circle connection on the end not connected to anything. It was just dangling under the dash. It seems like it should connect to the back of one of the gauges? Just to see if it was a disconnected ground I ran a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the wire, but didn't get power to anything. I have no clue were it connects. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem? The trolling motor does work when connected to battery. Assistant:

So, found a bad fuse on the hot wire connection at the battery. Replaced it and now the back live well switch is working. However, nothing else seems to have power. I assume in the top pic the red and purple wires connected with a nut are the Hot wire, but I can not get a voltage reading from it. The left side connections are to a 12v plug like a cigarette lighter. It is on the 15amp fuse.

So, found a bad fuse on the hot wire connection at the battery. Replaced it and now the back live well switch is working. However, nothing else seems to have power. I assume in the top pic the red and purple wires connected with a nut are the Hot wire, but I can not get a voltage reading from it. The left side connections are to a 12v plug like a cigarette lighter. It is on the 15amp fuse.

Yes it spins freely after loosening a 1/4 turn. And then I put the keeper on the nut and the cotter pin and then the bearing buddy and pumped it full of grease.

Human: Hey everyone, I am having electrical problems with the lights/bilge/radio/depthfinder/live wells and horn. I have power to the motor and gauges on the dash. I have check all fuses under the dash and they are good. I do have a light brown wire that is part of the ignition harness that has a circle connection on the end not connected to anything. It was just dangling under the dash. It seems like it should connect to the back of one of the gauges? Just to see if it was a disconnected ground I ran a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the wire, but didn't get power to anything. I have no clue were it connects. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem? The trolling motor does work when connected to battery. Assistant:

Ok, so knowing what the all the switches do probably would have been a big help. Apparently the far right switch is the Accessory power and if it is off there is no power to anything else! After swapping the fuse and turning on the Accessory power I now have power to both live wells and the bilge pump. I might still have issues with the navigation lights as the fuse that was good blew. I put a higher power fuse in it and the lights worked. Going to get some more 5 amp fuses and test if they will actually work or if they burn out. Pretty pumped to get everything working. Sadly the radio (old cassette deck) powered on but couldn't turn it to FM and no sound coming from speakers. Probably just replace it as it is very outdated! Thanks again for the help, I have already learned a lot about this boat in the last few days!

Ok, so knowing what the all the switches do probably would have been a big help. Apparently the far right switch is the Accessory power and if it is off there is no power to anything else! After swapping the fuse and turning on the Accessory power I now have power to both live wells and the bilge pump. I might still have issues with the navigation lights as the fuse that was good blew. I put a higher power fuse in it and the lights worked. Going to get some more 5 amp fuses and test if they will actually work or if they burn out. Pretty pumped to get everything working. Sadly the radio (old cassette deck) powered on but couldn't turn it to FM and no sound coming from speakers. Probably just replace it as it is very outdated! Thanks again for the help, I have already learned a lot about this boat in the last few days!

Latest part number is [FONT=&quot]6H1-45300-16-4D. More than likely any earlier dash numbers will also work.[/FONT]

Human: Hey everyone, I am having electrical problems with the lights/bilge/radio/depthfinder/live wells and horn. I have power to the motor and gauges on the dash. I have check all fuses under the dash and they are good. I do have a light brown wire that is part of the ignition harness that has a circle connection on the end not connected to anything. It was just dangling under the dash. It seems like it should connect to the back of one of the gauges? Just to see if it was a disconnected ground I ran a wire directly from the negative side of the battery to the wire, but didn't get power to anything. I have no clue were it connects. Anyone have any clue what could be the problem? The trolling motor does work when connected to battery. Assistant:

FWIW, make a good drawing of what you have (or have figured out)...it will come in handy down the road when the next issue develops...or when you want to add something.

FWIW, make a good drawing of what you have (or have figured out)...it will come in handy down the road when the next issue develops...or when you want to add something.

dark_star said: "Yamaha USA has offered four stroke models since 1985" not the F60 Click to expand... That is correct. Different horse power four strokes have been introduced randomly throughout the years. "was 03" one of the first years for 4 strokes?" I read the OP's question about Yamaha four strokes. Not the F60 model.

Human: For over a year my accessory electrical has been intermittent on my 2007 Larson Escape and I've been chasing it since it started. It's finally consistently not working and I'm at a loss. I have 12.8V at the master switch, and at the bus behind my counsel, and at each accessory switch; however when I flip any accessory switch (radio, bilge, nav lights, blower, etc) the voltage drops to 0.0 across all accessory switches and at the bus. When I switch the accessory off again I can watch the voltage climb back up to 12V in about 30-45 seconds. I should also note that regardless of voltage drop, I always have 12V at my ignition. Any ideas what might be causing this or where I should start looking for the issue? Going to bring the battery in to get tested, but it was brand new this season. Assistant:

Ayuh,.... corroded wirin' connections,..... could be anywhere in the positive, or ground paths,..... start at the battery, 'n clean all the connections to shiny clean metal,.....

Ayuh,.... corroded wirin' connections,..... could be anywhere in the positive, or ground paths,..... start at the battery, 'n clean all the connections to shiny clean metal,.....

This is the serial/model number (see photo).

Human: For over a year my accessory electrical has been intermittent on my 2007 Larson Escape and I've been chasing it since it started. It's finally consistently not working and I'm at a loss. I have 12.8V at the master switch, and at the bus behind my counsel, and at each accessory switch; however when I flip any accessory switch (radio, bilge, nav lights, blower, etc) the voltage drops to 0.0 across all accessory switches and at the bus. When I switch the accessory off again I can watch the voltage climb back up to 12V in about 30-45 seconds. I should also note that regardless of voltage drop, I always have 12V at my ignition. Any ideas what might be causing this or where I should start looking for the issue? Going to bring the battery in to get tested, but it was brand new this season. Assistant:

2x on the corroded connection(s)... and, based on your description, I'd concentrate on the positive side, from the battery to the feed for the accessory switches, and the common "accessory" path in the negative side... the other thing you can do is use an IR gun to look for one or more 'hot spots' when you have one of the 'voltage killing' circuits active.

2x on the corroded connection(s)... and, based on your description, I'd concentrate on the positive side, from the battery to the feed for the accessory switches, and the common "accessory" path in the negative side... the other thing you can do is use an IR gun to look for one or more 'hot spots' when you have one of the 'voltage killing' circuits active.

Chip all of that old foam out of the hull and go ahead and put in the deck. stragetically drill 2 inch holes in all the different sections and then use the poaring foam in each section and be prepared to do it all at once. What I did was keep the plugs you drilled out with a hole saw and as the foam expands you put the plug in the hole and seta weight on it. A gallon of pouring foam will be more than enough just mix small amounts at a time and have lots of mixing cups handy once you start to pour you dont want to stop. After the foam has cured you can shave and sand the deck flat and put a layer of glass and a good deck paint with grit. Where are you located I have three gallons of pouring foam looking for a home.

Human: 1995 Mercruiser 350 Magnum Tournament Ski, 460 hours. At wakeboard/ski speeds (18/30 mph) the battery gauge is pinned to the top reading, 16V. Is this normal? I have a multi tester if checking is required. Just need a how-to on the procedure. Many thanks for your help, PW Assistant:

assuming your battery gauge is somewhat accurate, no, it is not normal. It should be a Mando 55 or 65 amp unit. usually the fastest was to fix it is to replace the alternator....piece parts to do the repair have become a pain to source at a reasonable price. if you get a replacement, you can repair the old one at your convenience (or send it out for overhaul). the full troubleshooting process spans several pages in Merc Manual #17...

assuming your battery gauge is somewhat accurate, no, it is not normal. It should be a Mando 55 or 65 amp unit. usually the fastest was to fix it is to replace the alternator....piece parts to do the repair have become a pain to source at a reasonable price. if you get a replacement, you can repair the old one at your convenience (or send it out for overhaul). the full troubleshooting process spans several pages in Merc Manual #17...

If I were a betting man I would suspect that any of the Yamaha USA C30 models share the same parts with your model motor. Have you contacted Yamaha Canada to see what they have to say? https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/eshop/m...roup=OB&unitYear=no&unitId=299&unitName=25+HP

Human: 1995 Mercruiser 350 Magnum Tournament Ski, 460 hours. At wakeboard/ski speeds (18/30 mph) the battery gauge is pinned to the top reading, 16V. Is this normal? I have a multi tester if checking is required. Just need a how-to on the procedure. Many thanks for your help, PW Assistant:

Thanks, Mako. I'll run the tests per the manual and report back. There is a alternator/starter shop in my area with a very high google rating. Hoping to keep the money local if a new or reman alternator is in the cards.

Thanks, Mako. I'll run the tests per the manual and report back. There is a alternator/starter shop in my area with a very high google rating. Hoping to keep the money local if a new or reman alternator is in the cards.

for what it's worth, when running my motor i never set my selector switch to "both" when running. select one battery setting and keep it there. that way you have a fresh battery available and that can save you a tow. a lot of people will suggest to alternate during the day. bad idea ! especially if the engine is not charging. then you are just running both batteries down during the day. leave the charging for both batteries for when you get home. run on the main battery......then switch to the alternate if there is a problem.