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Q: Is there any free way to have a Mac function as an AirPlay speaker? I have a stereo system hooked up to my Mac mini, but sometimes I'll play music from my laptop. Is there any way for the Mac mini to be recognized as a speaker and allow me to output sound to it (and the speakers connected to it) from my laptop without paid solutions like Airfoil?
A: This isn't free, but it's only $2.99 AirServer
A: Currently streaming from iTunes is only supported to Apple TV and Airport Express speakers. (Thanks @Jonathan)
You could try a pretty ugly hack of using home sharing to access your laptop music library from your Mac Mini and then control the playback by using vnc or some other remote desktop app to control playback on the Mini from the laptop.
A: Try Erica Sadun's AirPlayer. That might very well work. :)
A: There is a free utility called shairport which acts as an airport express. If your computers are on the same network, you can use it to stream music between the two, as iTunes will see the computer it is running on as airplay speakers. I recently used it to stream music from my iPod to my computer.
A: If music only, there are a lot free options. shairport is a great choice, open source, support almost all platforms.
If you also need mirroring, most free tools are broken since iOS9.
check this one: lonelyscreen. It is free. Only for mac and windows, no linux. And it can capture and save iOS mirroring. I don't use that much, but it is very convenient sometimes.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7160",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: What features won't I get with a Magic Mouse under Windows XP and 7? I like the magic mouse for the two-finger scroll and other features under Snow Leopard. Which of those features will not work under Windows XP and 7. I have XP on a home machine and 7 at work, so I care about both.
A: I have a Magic Mouse on my laptop, and dual boot between OS X and Windows 7.
The basic mouse functionality works well, but the scrolling does not work at all (neither vertical or horizontal), and the gestures do not work either, as all of these functions are done by software and don't use the standard MouseWheel commands that windows expects.
I set it up a long time ago so my memory has faded, but I think you may also have to install the some apple mouse driver package from the Snow Leopard Boot Camp DVD too, but hopefully I'm wrong and you don't need this.
A: You can get scroll (and maybe a few others) by using Apple's Boot Camp drivers. Article here. All the links to the drivers seem to be gone, so you may have to extract them yourself.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7162",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to stream iTunes content to Apple TV 2G without a Mac or PC? I would like to upgrade my 1st-gen Apple TV and was wondering if it is possible to stream to new Apple TV from a NAS drive with iTunes server or an alternate method. I am not willing to go XBMC way since I would like to control my Apple TV though the Remote app for iOS.
A: You can play media that originates on an iOS device using AirPlay to send it to the Apple TV. AirPlay is built in to iOS.
If you have a PC or Mac, you could turn on iTunes Match and send the entire library to the cloud. At that point, you could ditch the PC/Mac and let Apple TV play from the cloud. iTunes Match requires a yearly subscription fee.
Neither of these features requires you to have a Mac or a PC, but neither helps much if all your media is on NAS.
A: It's not possible to stream directly to the new Apple TV from a NAS. You need a laptop/Mac in the middle.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7163",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Fake rectangle/window visible under some windows tricky question here.
I don't know how long this has been going on, but I noticed it only recently. My semi-transparent windows have a “fake” square/window beneath them, which is visible (it also project a shadow, but only when the window is in foreground.
Screenshot:
(the textedit window serves just as a white backdrop).
Video showing behaviour:
http://cl.ly/132M2T0p3j0E210d0S2K
I initially thought this was just TextMate, but I noticed this on terminal.app too (semi-transparent too).
I am running 10.6.6, have no “strange” hacks or input managers installed AFAIR.
I understand that this is probably a very exotic bug, so tools that can help me track down the cause are welcome, and I'll gladly accept such an answer.
Thanks in advance,
A.
A: I've seen a similar effect before, awhile ago. It's probably a program running in the background that has a transparent window on the desktop. Do you have anything running in the background that uses transparent windows or window overlays? I seem to remember an old version on Norton AV doing strange things like this many years ago.
A: How fascinating! Personally I would dump your Textmate .plist(s) found in ~/Library/Preferences, and see if the window management preferences are garbled just for that app. Worst case scenario, the rest of the Internet is right and there's simply no fix at present. As always, keep them on the desktop until you're certain you can delete them without having worsened the issue.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7164",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How do I type š on an international keyboard? I'm currently writing emails frequently to a Slovenian who has the letter š in his name. I use copy and paste for the letter š, which is quite inconvenient.
I'm using the US keyboard layout.
How can I type this letter directly from the keyboard?
A: Right Option (Alt) v s
You must have U.S. Extended keyboard layout enabled for the above to work.
A: You can choose edit menu (in most software) then choose Special Character .. then go to Accented Latin tab and find your character Š.
A: Simply hold down the S key and you'll be presented with three options - press 3 on your keyboard to type š. If you need a capital Š just use the Shift Key or Caps Lock.
A: If you have the patience to configure the keybindings, you can try Ukelele and create a keyboard layout for your needs.
A: I'm not near my iMac right now, so I can't test this. But this usually works for me http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.5/en/8504.html
A: I have long had the same problem. My solution: install the Slovenian keyboard layout and set the shortcut to changing between keyboards to Option+Tab. That works very quickly and gives you all the special letters (they are in place of the paranthesis and quotation keys on an English keyboard.)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7165",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Change the function of caps lock to insert underscores when the spacebar is hit Is there a way I can change the function of my caps lock key so that when it's on it inserts_underscores_instead_of_spaces_when_i_hit_the_spacebar?
It's fine if it just works in Textmate but would be handy in other apps.
A: You should be able to achieve this with Ukelele. I tried to do this myself but got distracted and then gave up. The documentation isn't exactly stellar.
Note: Ukelele is just a GUI to simplify the process of editing the layouts manually as they are large XML files with slightly ambiguous element names.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7169",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: When can we expect upgrade of 13" macbook pro? Core2Duo is old architecture in comparison with iCore (MacBook Pro 15" and 17").
When can we expect upgrade of 13" macbook pro?
And any rumors about what we can expect?
Apple Updates MacBook Pro with Next Generation Processors, Graphics & Thunderbolt I/O Technology
http://www.apple.com/pr/library/2011/02/24mbp.html
A: MacRumors expects a new MacBook Pro soon (this April, probably). It will use Intel's new Sandy Bridge architectures.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7178",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Select whole words using single finger tap gesture If you double click a word to select it, and keep the mouse held down, you go it starts word selection mode, meaning it will select whole words as you move the mouse over them.
This only works when using the physical click on the trackpad. The problem is that I want the same behavior using a tap (i.e. the One Finger Tap to Click feature is enabled). When I try to use a tap, though, it goes into character selection mode rather than word selection.
Is there ant way to perform word selection using tap gestures on a trackpad?
A: Yep!
You double-tap and lift off to select the word. Then double-tap the selected word and start dragging immediately keeping your finger down. It's actually kind of tricky to get to work without dragging the word but once you get it a couple of times it gets easier.
Here's an explanation on how to do it also from macworld.com, same as above:
To select text (and this works in nearly any program that involves
text) on a word-by-word basis, do a double-click-and-hold before you
start dragging, instead of a single click. As you move the mouse along
now, you’ll see that entire words are added to your selection as soon
as the cursor touches their first character. So if you’ve got a fair
bit of text to select, but still need precision, this is a pretty
quick way to get it done.
Here are my trackpad settings
A: I'd try using the three finger dragging method. In the Trackpad System Preference, set Three Fingers to Dragging. Double-tap a word to select it, then use three fingers to drag from that word to highlight more words.
A: Double tap this word. Then hold shift and double tap this word.
A: On my MacBook I can triple tap (keeping the finger on the pad on the third tap) and drag to use whole word selection.
I can also quadruple tap to select the entire paragraph.
My trackpad settings:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7179",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can the colors of a single window be inverted in OS X? How can the colors of a single window be inverted in OS X?
A: You can use Command ⌘+Option ⌥+Control ⌃+8 to invert the video colours of the whole screen.
There's no way to just invert the colours of a single window.
A: In Mountain Lion, the Ctrl+Opt+Cmd+8 shortcut was deactivated. I first had to activate it for it to work via Keyboard Shortcuts in the System Preferences in the Accessibility tab.
A: ⌘+⌥+ctrl+8 does the whole screen if that helps.
You could make the window full screen!
A: Black light software does it, and it does even more.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7186",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: What does iTunes do while it's "Verifying iPod, iPad, iPhone"? What does iTunes do while it's "Verifying iPod, iPad, iPhone"
I see this most often after an abruptl disconnect and plug it back in but also sometimes when doing a second sync immediately after the last sync completes.
Does it fix any errors that have occurred on the device?
A: Your computer iTunes is waiting for the iPhone to "fix itself" and clean up from the interrupted sync.
The mobile iTunes database (and I'm sure several others) will need to be rebuilt to clean up after an interrupted sync. You can see/test this by disconnecting your iOS device in the middle of podcast or music syncing. If you then immediately start up iTunes for iOS - you will get an Updating LIbrary screen while it itdbprepserver does its work. You'll get a "verifying message" until these post-sync and interrupted-sync cleanup activities finish. Once iTunes on the desktop has "verified" the phone is ready to start another sync, it commences with the normal backup and sync activities. My timing shows the interrupted recovery to take twice the time of a normal sync completion but usually less than a minute either way.
A: connect the ipod to a different computer - one with only a few songs in the library you should find the verifying message disappears and does not come back when you connect it again on the other computer
A: I think it's part of the backup process iTunes does for your iPod/iPhone. I don't believe it repairs anything on the device as such. You could try deleting old backups if you feel this message is taking too long to disappear. Backups normally speed up when you delete old ones off.
A: I don't exactly know what it's doing, but since you disconnected your iPhone during sync, iTunes was probably writing data on the iPhone.
When you reconnect it, iTunes is checking if it finished properly the last time and if not, where it was interrupted and if there is corrupted data that needs to be fixed.
That's pretty much it. I don't believe there's a process of verifying with Apple's server if your iPhone is legally activated or anything else.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7196",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Hibernation mode shows incorrect value? I'm trying to follow the steps in this article to make it so the contents of my memory aren't written to disk every time the computer goes to sleep.
I'm having trouble in the "Check the current setup" step. Before changing these settings, I want to make sure I understand it 100% so that I can revert the changes. It says that I should have a setting of 3 if hibernate and sleep is enabled, or 7 if hibernate, sleep and secure virtual memory are all enabled.
I'm on a standard user account, but when I go to System Preferences > Security > General, I see that Use secure virtual memory is enabled.
The problem is that when I run pmset -g | grep hibernatemode, it returns 3 instead of 7.
Any idea why there is this discrepancy?
A: The article is outdated (it's from 2006). There is no hibernatemode = 7 in the pmset manual. If you dont want your macbook to write ram to disk, use hibernatemode = 0 (by issuing sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 0).
When I want my computer to hibernate and power off I use this hibernate script.
A: I can say that mine also returns 3 even though it's using the secure virtual memory. But to be honest, it doesn't really matter. Set it to 0 if you don't want it to save to the HDD and 3 if you want it to. :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7198",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Disable mouse acceleration Is there any way to disable mouse acceleration on a mac?
Mouse acceleration is what causes the mouse to move slowly when moving it a tiny bit, and a farther distance when moved fast. In other words, I want the mouse to always move the same distance no matter the speed I use.
I'm using a trackpad, by the way.
To understand what I mean by mouse acceleration, try this:
*
*Place your finger on the left most side of the trackpad.
*Very slowly, move your finger all the way to the right of the trackpad, and observe that the cursor doesn't move very much on the screen.
*Now try the same thing, but this time move your finger really fast from one side of the trackpad to the other. You should see that the cursor has moved a significant amount of distance more than it did previously, even though your finger traveled the same distance.
A: As far as I know, there is no way to do this without external tools.
Usb Overdrive lets you do this http://www.usboverdrive.com/ and is what I use.
Steer mouse also has this setting. http://plentycom.jp/en/steermouse/
Mouse Curves http://triq.net/articles/mouse-acceleration-preference-pane-mac-os-x Has the advantage of being free, but Apple removing the acceleration API in 10.6 may have ramifications on its utility.
A: Go into System Preferences for Trackpad and turn the tracking speed all the way down to slow. What you can't do, I'm afraid, is have the mouse be unaccelerated and also reasonably fast.
A: i like use Acc ExactMouse Pro For Mac
http://www.zarell.com/product/acc_exactmouse_pro/
it also can disable mouse acceleration with assign application
Edit: it's available for free at the bottom of this page.
A: I'm currently using SmoothMouse.
According to this forum post it should also reduce lag for pointer movement.
Fact: the on-screen pointer lags behind the mouse (or trackpad) in OS X more than in other operating systems, such as Windows or Ubuntu Linux.
To sum up:
*
*The problem has been confirmed by an Apple engineer (thanks to him for that) in an email correspondence with me. He has also mentioned that they were working on a solution.
*The problem has existed at least since OS X 10.4 "Tiger". The current version of OS X (10.8 "Mountain Lion") still exhibits the problem.
*Many people confuse lag with acceleration, this is what my blog post was about.
Solutions:
*
*SmoothMouse.
*Running Mac as a Synergy client with a mouse connected to another computer running Synergy server.
*Using Wacom tablet instead of a mouse.
A: I would like to complement this good topic, with a related mouse setting:
MacOS also has Mouse Scroll Acceleration/Inertia.
And it can be disabled:
*
*Open System Preferences -> Accessibility
*Scroll down to Pointer Control
*Click Mouse Options
*Disable Inertia
Picture below:
A: You might also look into a third party tool named MagicPrefs to twiddle with the tracking settings on Mac OS X.
They have a nice tips section documenting the ability to set a heavy handed "speed" (which they call TrackingMouse and represent as an integer) and a more fine tuned "speed" (which they call TrackingMouse and represent as a floating value between 0 and 1). It's not clear if they truly disable the "acceleration" that kicks in as you move faster. Since that is so built into the "apple experience" it may not be easily changed or overridden.
A: Having faced the similar annoyance with my new Magic Mouse, I've come up with a script that doesn't require any third party solution. You can read about it in my blog post. I have this run as a handy menu option on Keyboard Maestro and keep it in Dropbox, but it's essentially just a shell script. So if you're interested here's the script:
#!/bin/sh
# Kill Mouse Acceleration and set Mouse sensitivity
# Author: [Kaushik Gopal](http://journal.kaush.co/475/run-kill-mouse-acceleration-on-login-with-keyboard-maestro)
# ----------------------------------------
# Check if the killmouseaccel script is installed in the Dropbox folder
if ! [ -f ~/Dropbox/"Utility Belt"/killmouseaccel ]
then
echo "You don't have the kill script installed. Will try to connect to the net and install it now";
curl -O http://ktwit.net/code/killmouseaccel
chmod +x killmouseaccel
mv killmouseaccel ~/Dropbox/"Utility Belt"/
fi
# No run the script
if [ -f ~/Dropbox/"Utility Belt"/killmouseaccel ]
then
# first set mouse sensitivity to sane levels
defaults write -g com.apple.mouse.scaling 1.8
# defaults read -g com.apple.mouse.scaling
# run the kill mouse script
~/Dropbox/"Utility Belt"/killmouseaccel mouse
echo "\nMouse Acceleration: Killed \nMouse:Sensitivity : 1.8\n";
else
echo "\nCouldn't install the kill Mouse Acceleration script. Sorry nothing done.\n";
fi
I've set my Mouse sensitivity to around 1.8 which works for me. Increase/Decrease to a value you like.
Props to the gent/lady at ktwit.net who actually came up with the mouse acceleration kill script.
A: After trying several methods I ended up using the Smooth Cursor. It costs three bucks but it works and it enables you to control the mouse and trackpad acceleration separately.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7201",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "18"
} |
Q: How do I set up a firmware password on a MacBook Air? I'm trying to follow the instructions for how to set up a firmware password, the problem is that they don't mention anything about Mac OS X 10.6.*, nor do they mention what to do with a MacBook Air, which doesn't come with an OS X DVD.
If I try searching for "firmware" in spotlight, it doesn't find any relevant application.
A: The MacBook Air should have come with a bootable USB flash drive for OS reinstalls. Use that and follow the same steps as 10.5.x.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7205",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Do three finger navigation gestures work in System Preferences? I've been playing around with a lot of different settings, and I'm not sure if one of the changes I made causes three finger gestures to not work in the System Preferences application, or if they never worked in the app to begin with.
When you navigate through the application and the forward or back buttons are enabled, does using the three finger swipe advance you forward or backward?
A: No, unfortunately three-finger swipes do not work in System Preferences.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7209",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why is Push notifications required for GPS to work? How are they related? How is Push notifications used in iPhone Maps application?
After jailbreaking my Push notifications and GPS are not working. I know I can install Pushfix from Cydia but it costs money but my question is why? Why should I fix Push for GPS to work.
iPhone 3G on iOS 4.2.1 unlocked with iPad baseband 6.15.00
A: As far as I know, they are not related. If I turn off push, either on my jailbroken iphone or my girl's unjailbroken one, GPS and maps keep on working just fine.
edit: Reading little bit more on pushfix I'll try to explain what became clear to me.
Push and Maps or GPS are still unrelated.
Jailbreaking is a legal procedure to make your iPhone free from "apple locks". That's where the name came from.
With that, a jailbroken iPhone can do things apple doesn't allow, but without a proper tool installed "jailbreaking" does nothing.
pushfix is a tool to fix a problem on the push notifications brought by activating the iphone without an authorized SIM (a.k.a. Hacktivated iPhone). pushfix was further improved to fix other problems, probably brought by the same Hacktivation, such as Wifi and GPS.
I highly recommend you do a lot more research and get familiarized with the terms and issues related to iPhone (yes, that's a lot of reading and quite complicated) or just get an Android! ;)
Here are some good starting points (other than the link already provided):
*
*http://www.google.com/search?q=iphone+jailbreaking
*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IOS_jailbreaking
*https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/jailbreak+iphone
And some good sources:
*
*http://thebigboss.org/jailbreak-now
*http://blog.iphone-dev.org/ (very technical and complicated)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7212",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What should I do when Apple Support fails to diagnose iPad 3G Failure? I got an iPad back in June 2010 and it worked wonderfully for about 30 days; full bars for 3G all the time. I loved it. Then one day the 3G just seemed to quit working and Apple says it is "fine." Now I hate it!
How can I get Apple to admit my iPad 3G does not work and actually fix or replace it?
Here are more details: After the iPad started displaying "No Service" for 3G most of the time I went to the local Apple store (a Lenox Mall in Atlanta) and they took it for an hour, said they ran diagnostics on it and that "it was fine." While in the store it did have 5 bars, but by the time I got to the parking lot it was on "No Service" again. I'm assuming that Apple and AT&T put 3G signal boosters in their stores to ensure people have no trouble with the signals when they are trying to decide if they are going to buy an iPhone or iPad.
I didn't have time to deal with it for a while but finally called tech support and they said I needed to replace the SIM card. So I travelled to AT&T and they replaced the SIM card, and while in the store it was fine. Before I had travelled 1/4 mile it was on "No Service" again. So here I'm assuming that AT&T also has 3G signal boosters in their stores too.
So time passed because I didn't have time to deal with it and finally was able to get a tech support support person to offer to return it for repair. Hurray! So I went to the UPS Store to ship it back, and then about 5 days later I get an email from Apple saying "We found nothing wrong, so we are shipping it back to you."* Sure enough when I got it back it was exactly as before: "No Service." where other iProducts have 4 or 5 bars.
Now you might ask, maybe it's really not the iPad but instead where I'm taking it? I'd consider that might be true had it not worked flawlessly for about 30 days. Or if I didn't live in Midtown Atlanta where signal strength is strong. Or if I didn't live across the street from the AT&T tower in Midtown Atlanta. Or if I hadn't seen many times where my iPhone 3G has 3 to 5 bars and my iPad had "No Service." Or if I hadn't seen my iPad with "No Service" and iPads of my friends with 5 bars. I've even started taking photos to prove it:
(source: mikeschinkel.com)
(source: mikeschinkel.com)
(source: mikeschinkel.com)
At this point my guess is the 3G antenna inside my iPad has failed and Apple's diagnostics don't detect it because they might not have been designed to detect that exact problem. So what I get is the continuous run-around rather than respectful customer service.
Thus far I've wasted about 20 hours on this problem, and at my $75/hour billing rate that's more than 2x what the iPad cost. I'm beyond sick about this. Does anyone know how I can get this resolved without another 20 hours of my time?
Gracious thanks in advance for your help.
-Mike
P.S. I bought the iPad for web access when I'm out at places that don't have WiFi and especially for access to Google Maps. But since the 3G became so unreliable I don't even use it anymore. :-(
UPDATE #1
I don't have a resolution yet but I have hope, and a story. I had my assistant take my iPad to an Apple store again and they told her that it was because I didn't have a current AT&T account which was total BS. A working iPad still shows 3g signal without an AT&T account, but since I was in a meeting when she went to the Apple store I didn't get a chance to tell the Apple store person that they were an unhelpful idiot.
Then later in the day she stopped by an Apple Authorized Service Center when I was available via phone and the tech at that store told me the same thing (Ugh!). So I gave her my credit card, she signed up for a $15/month plan and then LO-AND-BEHOLD the service tech experienced EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM I HAVE BEEN DESCRIBING (as I expected): Hallelujah!!! He offered to send back to Apple with his explanation that it is INDEED a faulty iPad.
So, with fingers tightly crossed it seems like the answer to this huge fing time sink thanks to Apple's customer no-service might just be to **get 3rd party validation at an Apple Authorized Repair Center. I'll follow up to let others know if indeed this resolved my problem or not and if so I'll name and praise the service center for their help.
A: So, as a follow up, almost 9 months after buying the iPad and after 8 months of it's 3G not working, I finally got Apple to replace it. How? I had an Apple-authorized 3rd party service center look at it. They confirmed the problems and sent to Apple for repair. But it didn't end there! Apple sent it back to them and said it was fine. Grrr.
BUT, armed with the 8 months of no-iPad-3G love AND with the fact that the Apple-authorized 3rd party service center agreed I had a problem I berated the tech support guy until he agreed to send me a new one no matter what the results of their diagnostics said. And he made good to his word; a new iPad showed up on my doorstep several days later.
With that ends the saga of the failed 3G on iPad that Apple would not admit was a problem.
Now here's the sad, sad irony and how I still feel that Apple got the last laugh on me. The day I got my iPad back was the very same day Apple announced the iPad 2. With all the bad taste in my mouth from this Apple seriously has me looking at an Android tablet for my next upgrade. :-(
A: To help diagnose, jailbreak and use the Signal app.
While jailbreaking voids your warranty, you can unjailbreak and your warranty is restored. Perhaps the info collect (and/or screenshots) will help you debug, make a case, etc.
I'm not sure how to present the evidence to Apple without them giving you a hard time about the jailbreak, assuming they make the connection.
A: Copy your story and send photos to sjobs@apple.com
A: I just left the Apple store where they told me the problem was not the sim card and their diagnosis showed no issues with the software, so the problem was probably the antenna. They offered to sell me a new iPad since mine was out of warranty.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7219",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How can I change the Guest account's background image? When I login as guest, then change the background, logout, and log back in, the background is not saved. How can I choose which background the guest account will have?
A: This article explains it very nice. Basically you are modifying a "User Template" file, which is used to create a fresh new user every time you log in as a Guest. If you're not quite sure on how to do it just ask for help. :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7222",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can I swap the shift key with another key? I'd like to swap the shift key with the / key. Ukelele says that it can't be used to change modifier keys. DoubleCommand has static settings that you can either enable or disable. It doesn't let you chose your own custom bindings, and needless to say, this remapping I want isn't available.
A: You can swap shift key with some other with key using KeyRemao4Macbook but I am not sure can swap with / .
A: PCKeyboardHack will do that.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7225",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I rebind Caps lock to delete/backspace? I tried using DoubleCommand, but it doesn't let you hold down caps lock, and pressing it causes caps lock light to be enabled/disabled. Ideally I want caps lock to never be enabled and for the key to behave exactly as though it were the delete key.
Another problem that DoubleCommand has is that every second press just toggles the light, and doesn't delete a character.
A: You may want to try Karabiner-Elements (formerly Seil).
I use it to bind Caps Lock to Right-Ctrl (not plain Ctrl), so that I can bind Caps Lock to Meta in Emacs (while Ctrl remains Ctrl, and other keys are kept to the usual behavior).
A: If you're on macOS Sierra or later, and don't mind using the command line, you can do it with a technique I saw on Hang Lu Su's blog:
$ hidutil property --set '{"UserKeyMapping":[{"HIDKeyboardModifierMappingSrc":0x700000039,"HIDKeyboardModifierMappingDst":0x70000002A}]}'
In her linked post she gets into other things as well, like making sure this binding survives restarts or mapping any key. Here are the Apple docs explaining the technique used as well as the codes to use for any key.
I realize the question and its original answers are older than macOS Sierra, but perhaps this can be useful for people stumbling across it more recently.
A: Seil is now obsolete and has been replaced by Karabiner-Elements.
https://karabiner-elements.pqrs.org
A: ControllerMate gets normal auto-repeat, no delay nor light toggle given Apple ➤ System Preferences… ➤ Keyboard ➤ Keyboard ➤ Modifier Keys… ➤ Caps Lock Key ➤ No Action.
Control, Meta (Alt) and Control-Meta took extra logic:
Peace
—Devon
P.S. Emacs² & Lisp³ grew up with Rubout left of letter A — see the Knight TV keyboard⁴ and Space Cadet keyboard⁵ layouts with Control-Meta-Super-Hyper-Shift-Greek-Top modifier keys.
P.P.S. Password input may require the hardware delete key.
P.P.P.S. If you manage to get
caps lock functionality
on a both-shifts key chord
do let me know.
P.P.P.P.S. The Mgt forbids me to post these https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ links:
[2] Emacs
[3] Lisp_(programming_language)
[4] Knight_keyboard
[5] Space-cadet_keyboard
A: This is trivial with Karabiner-Elements:
*
*Go to Karabiner Elements Preferences
*Simple Modifications tab
*Add Item
*From: caps_lock To: delete_or_backspace
That's it - the change should apply instantly.
You may also want to remap Backspace temporarily to nothing, to make sure you get the new muscle memory and not the old habitual key. In that case, do the same as above but remap From: delete_or_backspace, To: vk_none (disable this key).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7231",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Why doesn't the Mac App Store Twitter app (v. 2.0.2) work well with Spaces? It's something that drives me crazy. The current version (2.0.2) of the official Twitter app for Mac OS X doesn't behave well with Spaces. It moves from space to space when I select another application (switching with cmd TAB.)
Is there a way to fix this or do I have to wait for a new release?
A: If you want Twitter to stay in one Space, you can assign it to that Space in the Spaces PrefPane. The downside to this is that you have to remove and re-add that assignment every time you launch Twitter. Can't wait for this bug to be fixed.
A: Having looked at the reviews of the app it seems to be a bug so you will have to wait.
You could try its predecessor Tweetie which I think is much better.
A: You should also pay attention to the excellent Kiwi app. I wrote a review of this app a few months ago, which has more customization options than the Twitter and Tweetie
Kiwi is gorgeous and so easy to use!
A: Twitterific is what I use for OS X. As a spaces user, I can assure you it plays nicely. It costs $10 which is a little steep but there is an advertisement version so you can try before you buy. Or you could just use it until Twitter for Mac is fixed. ;) Very nice user experience in my opinion.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7233",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How do I stream Mac audio to Linux computer? is there any way to stream audio from my Mac to my Linux computer (my av receiver is connected to that)?
A: I think VLC can stream the audio over the network - take a look at http://www.videolan.org/doc/streaming-howto/en/
A: If you don't want to pay money for AirFoil, you can use SoundFlower on the Mac and ESounD or PulseAudio's ESounD-compatible module on the Linux machine. This article explains how to do that.
A: You can use AirFoil ($25) for Mac to stream the sound to AirFoil Speakers for Linux (free).
This software works great.
A: This guide worked for me http://tdotc.wordpress.com/2012/05/28/sound-matters/
Summary:
Install Soundflower in your Mac.
# open network port 16002 to receive raw data for PulseAudio (in your receiver)
while true; do nc -l 16002 | pacat --latency-msec=1; done
# connect the audio input on OS X to a remote raw sound sink via esdrec and netcat (in your Mac)
esd -tcp -bind ::1 & sleep 2 && esdrec -s ::1 | nc <SERVER> 16002
A: With XBMC installed on a Linux machine and without any other software on my Mac, I can stream anything I want.
To do this:
*
*Configure XBMC as an Airplay receiver : go to System > Services > Airplay and enable Airplay (I do not use password)
*On your Mac, Open Audio Midi Setup
*Right click on the Airplay item on the left side and choose “Use this device for sound output” from the Action pop-up menu.
Now, anything you play on your Mac should output to your Airplay device.
To reverse back to normal output (e.g. on a MacBook), right-click on another output (e.g. the standard speaker or integrated output) and choose “Use this device for sound output” from the Action pop-up menu.
See also : Audio Midi Setup: Set up your audio devices
A: Use ShairPort on the Linux box.
Everything can be setup within minutes with zero software installed on the Mac, which is what I wanted.
Install from PPA
This should work pretty straightforwardly on any Debian-based distro.
sudo add-apt-repository ppa:dantheperson/shairplay-sync
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install shairplay-sync
Install from source
These instructions are valid for Debian, and worked on my raspberry pi within minutes. Other distros/OS may need to adapt the packages to be installed.
*
*Install Alsa:
apt-get install alsa-utils alsa-oss libasound2 libasound2-plugins alsamixer
*Install PulseAudio:
apt-get install pulseaudio pulseaudio-utils
*Install perl SDP. Follow instructions on the perl-net-sdp repo
*Clone & install ShairPort:
git clone https://github.com/hendrikw82/shairport.git
cd shairport
sudo make install
sudo cp shairport.init.sample /etc/init.d/shairport
sudo chmod a+x /etc/init.d/shairport
sudo update-rc.d shairport defaults
*(optional) Rename your receiver (like the room name):
vim /etc/init.d/shairport
Change/add the following:
DAEMON_ARGS=”-w $PIDFILE -a AirPlayName”
*Start all the services (PulseAudio, ShairPort, etc)
*You can now redirect your audio output to your new ShairPort device by alt-clicking the sound icon on your Mac.
All of these instructions were found on this blog post and copied here briefly in case the link goes down.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7236",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Corporate alternatives to DropBox for iPad I am currently the only iPad user in a large company, and am loving using it, especially for meetings. I keep a lot of information relevant to meetings on DropBox, such as minutes, reports, spreadsheets and so on, and tend to refer to them a lot. I like the fact that I can easily navigate my own directory tree in DropBox, and view common file formats on there. However, whilst I have permission to use dropbox for the files I use, I find that I am limited in scope with some meetings, as I'm not allowed to place others on servers that don't belong to the company. I end up having to either bring a laptop, or, more commonly, look over somebody else's shoulder.
So, can anyone recommend a solution similar to Dropbox that would work for shares on Windows Server 2003, and allow me to:
*
*Easily navigate a directory tree, possibly with shortcuts to commonly-used folders
*View files in MS Office 2003 and 2007 formats and PDFs without lengthy conversion processes
*Not have to go through an intermediate "copy to the iPad" step that I might find with, say GoodReader or Quickoffice
I'd ideally lie a solution that works on the company wifi network without further modification of the current server architecture, though I can see that in the future, it may need to work over a secure VPN connection from the field if a few other managers decide to take the plunge, so something that's preferably easy for our system administrators to configure and support. A proxy solution that would work in Linux or Windows is possible.
A: A search on the iTunes store for SMB file browsers finds something called - ahem - FileBrowser that sounds like what you need. Haven't tried it myself - although thinking about it something like this might be a help in my workflow. Did I just cost myself $3 by answering a question?
It's at http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/filebrowser-access-files-on/id364738545?mt=8
A: I've looked for similar things in the past. I think the best short answer is: "There is nothing remotely similar to dropbox on the iPad that works on Windows shares."
You might want to investigate the encryption that dropbox uses. I think all the files on their server are encrypted using a key which is only stored on your ipad? You might be able to convince your management/IT people that it's okay for you to use dropbox for documents that need to be secure.
Update:
I've been using a program called BoxCryptor which sits on top of DropBox and adds another layer of encryption. It runs on my Mac and on my iPad. I don't know if it's available for Windows, I don't see why not. I've been using it for a few weeks for some small spreadsheets and it works fine so far.
A: Box.net may be a suitable replacement. I know other iPad owners who have used it for some of these tasks.
A: I'm not too sure if this will apply on your case, but give Tonido a shot. I know I am (still going to) try it.
A: You could setup a WebDAV->SMB gateway and use Pages or other WebDAV capable clients to access it...
http://davenport.sourceforge.net/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7238",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Are there any gotchas with using two Apple IDs for one user in the App Store? To date I have had an Apple ID tied to my personal email address. It uses my personal paypal account for the purchases, and currently it has a credit balance thanks to some Christmas iTunes gift cards.
With the App Store recently being released, I'd like to buy an OS X app for business purposes. I don't want to use the credit balance on my personal Apple ID account, so I was thinking about creating a new Apple ID just for when I buy apps that I use for business. This way I could have the business Apple ID tied to my business paypal account.
However, I'm concerned that there might be some gotchas with using two different Apple IDs on the same MacBook by the same user. Before I just try this blindly, does anyone have any experience or know of any gotchas?
A: There are a couple of gotchas I'm aware of.
*
*If you buy apps on both iTunes accounts, they all get listed together when updates become available, not just the ones on the account you're currently signed into. So if you click 'download all free updates' iTunes will only download the updates for the account which is signed in. This can be confusing because you've told it to download all free updates and it doesn't tell you why it hasn't downloaded the others.
*If you have an Apple TV and you want to use Home Sharing, then you can only share the content for one account at a time.
A: I've been using 5 accounts in 3 different countries for the past 18 months. I wouldn't say that there are any gotchas, just some annoyances.
The biggest annoyance is related to apps being in different App Stores - if I'm in the US App Store and click an update for an app purchased in th UK App Store (and there's no way to tell by looking at the list), I have to go through the whole process of being sent to the other App Store, signing in, checking updates, clicking Update again. You shouldn't have that problem if your accounts are for the same App Store.
The other annoyance is that even in the same App Store, you'll need to update your Apps in batches. Clicking Updae All will update the apps for the current login, and that will leave you with some remaining apps. Click Update All again, and you'll be asked to sign in with the other account details.
I would love the App Store to work in a more streamlined way.
A: Won't really be a big deal, it can help you keep your Mac App Store purchases separate from your iTunes Store.
Only issue would be if you somehow forgot which account was signed in to a device and started buying on the other account.
I imagine you can keep that straight though if you are ONLY using the Mac App Store account on the Mac(s) you own.
A: I do have several Apple IDs, one each for the iTunes Store accounts (more than one country, but that's another story) and one for the Apple Developer Program.
For the Mac App Store I'm using the same account as for the iTunes Store, though.
I've not had problems so far.
A: I use a German and a US Apple ID; switching as described by anthonyg works. However, I also find that switching IDs can turn off and even break iTunes Match (which is a strange beast as it is), making syncing with other devices unreliable. Different story. But a way around this problem is to create a separate iTunes library; IDs are connected to libraries and are not hardwired into system preferences.
(You can switch libraries easily by holding down the Option key while clicking the iTunes icon; a small window pops up asking you whether you want to create a new library or select an old one.)
I use this separate library every other week or so just for getting app updates and the occasional content item on the German store; after iTunes has downloaded the files, I simply copy them into the "Automatically add to iTunes" folder of the main library (which uses my US ID), and they get added next time I switch to this main library.
I have not experimented to find out whether my main library accepts this "alien" content only because I previously had switched to a different ID while using this library, but I suspect this is the case. Anyway, this makes things easier for me.
A: just add additional profiles (users) on your mac.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7249",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: Why does my Mac Pro have two ethernet ports on the back of the computer? I'm curious as to how or why I might want to take advantage of two ethernet ports on the back of the tower?
A: @Griffo Had some great ideas, I have one more:
Share your network connection with another computer. Usually, you'd use a router, but what if you don't have one, or it's misconfigured? You could connect your external network to one port and use network sharing over the other.
A: *
*If you wanted to connect to two different networks you could use this. So say you had an internal network which you had your own computers all linked to but were not connected to the internet, you could use one port to connect to this network. Then you could connect the other port to a broadband router/modem and access the internet on your Mac Pro. It's really more of an interest to businesses than domestic users.
*You could also use the second port to connect to Network Attached Storage (NAS) such as a MyBook World or similar. This would allow you to use the full bandwidth of one port for backups to disk while not affecting the speed on the other network.
*Backup interface in case one fails. You could have each interface connect to different switches on your network in case of a failure on one you still have access to the network on the other.
*There's also something called link aggregation which allows you to combine the ports to act as one port with twice the speed. However, this depends on your other network equipment supporting this mode.
A: Provide one of the ports to a Virtual Machine for bridged networking. This allows the guest VM to have direct access to the network on its own IP instead of sharing the host's network card via NAT.
A: *
*Connection to the modem for your regular internet.
*Network connection to an old Windows computer for easy file and data sharing.
I am glad mine has 2 ethernet ports.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7257",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: Unable to install Boot Camp on iMac For some reasons I could not install Boot Camp on my iMac. I tried to defrag, reinstalled OS X, repair hard drive but nothing seems to be working. I kept getting error "The disk cannot be partitioned because some files cannot be moved".
I have VMware Fusion but it seems to be very slow to what I want to do on my computer. So my only option is Boot Camp (unless there are other software like Boot Camp out there).
Any suggestion I should do?
A: Personally, I got around this issue by doing a complete reformat and reinstall of everything. I installed OS X first from disc, then created the Boot Camp partition, then installed Windows.
It definitely isn't the prettiest solution, but a solution nonetheless. I would advise at least waiting to see if anyone has an idea for how to move those "unmovable" files before diving head first into this.
A: Sounds like boot camp might be running into a space issue. Boot Camp might have trouble moving your VMWare files. Can you move them elsewhere (off your iMac) and retry? The issue may not be due to overall disk capacity but rather that Boot Camp is trying to use a portion of the disk which is occupied by something it doesn't want to move. As far as I know, the partition you allocate needs to be placed in contiguous space. Even running a defragmenting program doesn't guarantee you won't have fragmentation. You could try reducing the size of the partition you're allocating to Windows incrementally until you get success to see if that's the issue.
EDIT
@Jon Are you running an Intel-based or PowerPC-based Mac? Boot camp won't work on PPC-based macs and just by the sounds of an error you were getting on your other question I'm thinking maybe you have a PPC Mac.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7260",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I activate buttons with just the keyboard? Many user interface (UI) elements or dialog boxes have buttons. I would like to be able to activate a button with just the keyboard, without the mouse. How can I do this?
A: For many dialog boxes you can select the option you want by pressing ⌘+firstletter
where firstletter is the first letter of the option you want to select
A: In macOS Big Sur (version 11.3+), System Preferences > Keyboard > Shortcuts
Select Use keyboard navigation to move focus between controls
@Eric Leschinski's answer gives an overview of keyboard shortcuts
A: ⌘+. also works for Cancel. And in some applications just pressing the initial letters works. Photoshop is one, but it's pretty common for other cross-platform applications too.
Typing ⌘+W+D is a quick way to do something like Close and don't save.
A: Enable Keyboard Control of the UI
System Prefs > Keyboard > Shortcuts
Then select "All Controls" radio button at the bottom, rather than just "Text boxes and lists only".
Keyboard Shortcuts
*
*⇥ (TAB) will move between buttons.
*esc (ESC) is cancel.
*space (SPACE) selects the active button (blue, outline).
*↩ (RETURN) is OK or the default button (blue, pulsing, filled).
*For some dialog boxes, ⌘+first_letter will select the button with a certain first letter in the text (as pointed out by @Griffo).
A: To elaborate on the answers above, many (most?) dialogue boxes will have the default option in blue. Hitting ⇥ will cycle between options, with a blue outline around the other button, but the default will remain blue. Hitting ↩ will always select the default, space will select whichever button is highlighted.
In this example, pressing ↩ will 'Keep .txt' and pressing space will 'Use .bak.'
A: See full Keyboard Access at the bottom of the following screenshot:
When a prompt window like the one you included appears, the selected button will be highlighted in blue.
Screenshot:
Then you press the space to action that button.
A: Tab to move to the next dialog box.
Space to select
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7263",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "98"
} |
Q: Is it possible to use an iPhone without a SIM card as an iPod touch? Is it possible to use an iPhone without a SIM card as an iPod touch?
I have an old iPhone 3G that no longer has a SIM card and I want to use it as an iPod touch. How can I achieve this?
A: There is an Apple support document on how to do this. You don't need to keep a sim in the phone but you need to put one into it to activate it before taking it back out.
Here's the procedure for 3G and 3GS:
You can use any SIM card associated
with the carrier that your device
supports to activate the phone. Simply
place a SIM card from the last carrier
with which you used your iPhone into
the device, and activate it. Then
remove the SIM card. You can now use
the iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS as you
would an iPod touch (Wi-Fi only, no
cellular service).
Note: You can use the activated SIM card from your new iPhone to do
this.
To re-activate an iPhone 3G or iPhone
3GS that displays the "Connect to
iTunes" screen:
*
*Insert a SIM card from the carrier with which you used your phone. Note:
If you are using the same carrier, you
can use the activated SIM card from
your new device to do this. If your
device is unlocked by your carrier,
you can use any SIM card.
*Connect the iPhone 3G or iPhone 3GS to iTunes on a computer connected
to the Internet. iTunes will then
activate the device. You can remove
the SIM card at this point and use the
iPhone as if it were an iPod touch.
A: I use my old iPhone 3G as an iPod with no problems. When I moved to an iPhone 4 I removed the sim, wiped the iPhone 3G, and it works fine. It shows No Sim in the top bar, but it works fine as an iPod and connects to my wifi with no problem.
What kind of problem are you having? Any error messages?
A: You want to keep the old sim in the phone. iTunes servers will remember that specific SIM and allow the phone to be unlocked each time it gets restored.
The phone company will have removed that SIM ICCID from service so the phone will say "waiting for service" or "waiting for activation" but otherwise keep functioning as a wifi only device. GPS will work if installed. Even location will work using GSM triangulation as the phone can see the cell towers even though they won't let it on the network for data.
A: I assume your iPhone already activated, yes you can. Just remove your SIM card while the phone is on. Done.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7265",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "24"
} |
Q: The application DGAgent quit unexpectedly -- repeatedly pops up every time i "ignore", "report" or "relaunch" Before this problem occurred I have been trying to defrag my disk using Drive Genius 3 and repair using disk utiltity. Than I decided to delete it. Not sure if that was the reason or not but after that I had this message pops up all the time "The application DGAgent quit unexpectedly". I have no idea what it is. This happens every I start up my iMac. The message pops up every time I click "ignore" "report" and "relaunch" buttons. Can you tell me what it is and how to fix it? Also this causes some of my applications such as Skype "cannot be opened because it is not supported on this architecture".
A: The error you're getting from Skype is because you're not using an Intel-based Mac. Skype only runs now on Intel-based Macs so I assume you're running a PowerPC iMac G5 or something are you? You also need to be running Leopard/Snow Leopard. Here's a screenshot of the System Requirements on the Skype Download page:
So, the Skype issue is not related to the DGAgent message.
As regards the startup of DGAgent on login, you can try the following:
*
*Open System Preferences
*Click Accounts
*Select your account
*Click Login Items
*Highlight Drive Genius if it's listed and click the '-' button on the lower left to remove it.
This will prevent OS X from attempting to start it on login. See screenshot below.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7271",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What port does Skype for iPhone use? I want to set up Skype to have priority on my router whem I'm skyping from my iPhone, but I can't figure out which port the app uses.
Any ideas?
A: It seems that it's port 80 and port 443. See this article on blocking of Skype 3G traffic
www.bluecoat.com/doc/486
A: Skype and firewalls
Ideally, outgoing TCP connections to
all ports (1.65535) should be opened.
This option results in Skype working
most reliably. This is only necessary
for your Skype connection to be able
to connect to the Skype network and
will not make your network any less
secure.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7273",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Bootcamp Windows 7 loading time optimization I've created a bootcamp partition and successfully installed Windows 7 there. The problem is that Windows loads too slow - there is a white pointer on black screen blinking for 2 or 3 minutes before system starts loading, so total loading time exeeds to 4 minutes.
How can I reduce Windows loading time?
I'm using MBP 2010 MC371, so there should be no perfomance problems.
A: You could try the solution on http://viperfx07.blogspot.com but I haven't had the problem myself so I can't say whether it will solve your issue
Just to note that this may be due to your copy of Windows not being genuine
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7274",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Are there good jailbreak apps that will improve the performance of iPhone 3G? I've an old iPhone 3G that I want to give it to my girl. She don't need it for play big games or stuff like that, but it's really slow in most of common tasks (access contacts, email, etc).
And since she isn't going to use many things the iPhone have, I was thinking in jailbreak it to see if there are apps that let you strip some of these things she wouldn't use.
Do you know jailbreak apps that strip functionality/features to iPhone 3G?
Or it'll going to be slower than now?
EDIT:
I expect something like remove unused characteristics like folders, or any stuff that make it slower. Kinda downgrading to 3.x but having compatibility with new apps.
Since overclocking is not safe for the phone (due to heat and functionality) I prefer to not consider it as an option, but thank you guys that suggested it!
A: Not a jailbreak solution, but... turn off SpotLight.
Go to Settings > General > Home > Search Results, and turn everything off.
This should result in a noticable speedup.
A: NB - these instructions apply to iPhone OS 3.0, link to instructions for iOS 4.x at the bottom
You can run your iPhones processor at a higher-than-factory clock speed which should in theory make it faster. However, it may cause the iPhone to run too hot so it's something to be aware of. The steps are below:
*
*Jailbreak the iPhone
*Use SSH to navigate to /System/Library/System/System Configuration/PowerManagement.bundle/
*Rename file com.apple.SystemPowerProfileDefault.plist to something else
*Restart your iPhone
Your iPhone will now run at the default speed for the processor it is built on. You may experience instability as the iPhone was designed to run at a speed lower than the native speeds of the processors it's built on so there's a major health-warning on performing this step.
iOS 4.x instructions thanks to @mankoff for his comment pointing out that the instructions had changed with the new iOS version. I expect these will change again in future so be sure to check Google or the search box on this site for latest methods.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7276",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Windows 7 Bootcamp not recognising devices Has anybody encountered a problem with the USB driver when running Windows 7 on MacBook Pro 2010 (MC371)?
It doesn't recognize any USB drives or USB hard drives. I've tried both Windows Update and Bootcamp update - nothing helps. Where can I find a proper driver?
A: Is your Windows 7 64-bit? If so, you might want to install the drivers in the Mac OS X DVD.
D:\Boot Camp\Drivers\Apple64.msi
A: Try to Uninstall the USB host drivers using device manager and then "Scan for hardware changes" to re-install them.
Might not work but its worth a try.
A: The drivers that come with windows should work already. Bootcamp doesn't install any new driver USB-wise.
Most likely you got a bad windows installation. I would try the same disc on another machine just to be sure.
edit: Unless, of course, it's not an issue with the USB itself. Here's a good troubleshooting guide from microsoft. The only thing that it says about the USB itself is that it may be defective - even if it works on Mac. Hardware issues can be quite complex.
A: Finally, I've got the solution. Yesterday I've updated both Win 7 and Windows Bootcamp, and the system found the hardware.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7277",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Espresso Libre theme for MacVim? I recently changed editors from TextMate to MacVim. Thanks in part to vimtutor, things are going pretty well. But I miss the Espresso Libre color scheme:
Is there a place where I can get Espresso Libre as a MacVim theme?
A: If you have the TextMate theme file, you can use this online converter to spit out a (Mac)Vim theme file for you: http://coloration.sickill.net/
It should do a pretty good job of converting it for you, as it did for the ones I've tried.
A: You'll probably be able to find something quite similar if not identical using vimcolorschemetest
A: This what you're looking for? http://eclipsecolorthemes.org/?view=theme&id=45
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7279",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Enabling Time Machine for a USB HDD with NTFS When I've plugged in my USB HDD (WD Passort Elite) for the first time, the system had asked me whether I want to use this HDD as time machine drive. I've chosen smth like 'decide later' and continued my work. When later I tried to setup time machine preferences I couldn't find the way to set my USB HDD as time machine drive. When I press 'Select drive for backup' i see empty list, nevertheless my drive is plugged in and works well.
Btw, it is ntfs-formatted, could it be a problem?
Thanks in advance
A: You can backup to an NTFS-formatted volume.
I backed up my Mac (Yosemite) with Time Machine as per Graham's answer here (https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/57082/134740), but I had to use a .sparseimage, as a .sparsebundle image failed to be created on the NTFS volume – for details on the differences between the two, see: https://support.apple.com/kb/PH22247.
In terms of restoring that image for recovery purposes, I tested it by restarting and holding the keys Cmd+R to boot into Mac OSX Recovery (https://support.apple.com/en-ie/HT201314) and Time Machine could not find the disk.
I had to start Disk Utility, mount the image manually, then go back to Time Machine and it could see the volume and all the available backups in it.
I didn't actually go ahead and start the restore but I assume if it can see the backups, it should be able to restore them : )
A: You can't backup to an NTFS formatted disk as stated below:
Note: Every available disk that can be used to store backups is listed. If you’ve partitioned a disk, the available partitions are listed. Time Machine can’t back up to an external disk that's connected to an AirPort Extreme, or to an iPod, iDisk, or a disk formatted for Microsoft Windows (NTFS or FAT format). If you select an NTFS or FAT-formatted disk, Time Machine prompts you to reformat the disk. Choose a different disk or reformat the disk in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. Because reformatting erases any files on the disk, only do this if you no longer need the files or if you have copies of them on a different disk.
This quote is from the apple support page for Time Machine
You could always reformat the disk in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format which would allow you to use it.
A: Copied to A Super User answer to Equivalent for Time Machine that writes to NTFS disks:
Backup to NTFS
If you wish to use Time Machine in Lion or greater with an NTFS volume – and if you have a write-enabled driver for NTFS:
*
*with tmutil you can configure Time Machine to back up to a sparse bundle disk image, the .sparsebundle stored on NTFS.
In some situations you may find that Time Machine simply offers to use an NTFS volume. This may occur if, say, a write-enabled driver for NTFS is installed before a physical disk with NTFS is introduced to OS X.
Restore from NTFS
OS X can read NTFS, and so should be able to restore from a .sparsebundle in this environment.
Whether Recovery OS is similarly prepared to read from NTFS and restore, I don't know.
A: As others said, you cannot use it directly.
The only way I found is:
*
*Create a virtual disk in VMDK format
*Mount it using some freeware tool
*Create a sparsebundle in the VMDK
*Configure TimeMachine to use that VMDK
Note that the intermediate VMDK is needed to prevent OSX from unmounting the sparsebundle (expect that behaviour if you mount a sparsebundle directly from an USB disk).
A: If you have some data on the disk and don't want to format whole disk and disk itself is quite big make a certain partition on the NTFS disk. Do it on PC with Windows XP/7 using Partition Magic or Partition Menager then format this partition in Mac OS Disc Utilities with Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. Next open Time Machine and choose disk. You should see both NTFS and Extended (Journaled) portions. Choose Extended (Journaled) one and backup your Mac.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7280",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Do all magsafe power ports have the same form factor? I have a MacBook6,1 with a 60W magsafe power adapter. The cord on the adapter got chewed up by my rabbit (she's fine) and I would like very much to replace it. But I really don't want to spend the $79 on the Apple Store!
I've seen magsafe adapters for as low as $27 elsewhere, but the connectors look different than mine.
This link, from Amazon, also 60W, claims to work for MacBooks (all of them, or some of them?), but is much less expensive: http://amzn.to/f3Xsc7
Inspecting the connector in the picture, the only difference I can see is mine is "L" shaped and the the one in the picture plugs straight in perpendicularly. If the connectors have the same form factor and the power specs are the same, it seems that I could get away with the cheaper one.
So, will all magsafe adapters plug into my macbook and charge it?
A: Yes - the computer side of things is the same, but the newer cord layout is needed for Airs or when the space around the port is restricted.
The 'L-shaped' MagSafe adapters were just a newer design which meant the cable went backwards instead of outwards. They should fit just fine and I've used one or two third-party ones in the past. Just as long as you pick the right power-output you should be fine. Here's a TUAW article on the matter
A: I've used a 2007 MacBook MagSafe adapter on my 2010 MacBook Pro with no problems. They are smart enough to switch voltages depending on the model.
I'd still try and find the right one for your machine though just to be safe.
A: The design was changed to prevent strain on the cables. They can be used interchangeably.
85 watt adapters can be used on any portable.
60 watt adapters the 13' MB, MBP, MBAirs and 11' Airs
45 watt adapters is for the MBAirs
Some units will work on lower voltages but usually won't charge the battery and if the unit is dead without a charge it won't start.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7283",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How to increase size of the Spotlight search results window? Is it possible to increase window width of the Spotlight search results under Mac OS X 10.6.6? I mean the semi-transparent "instant search result" window appearing at the top right corner under magnifying glass, not the Finder window.
The standard window is too narrow: longer file names or Dictionary word translations just don't fit there. Why not using more screen space for the search result?
A: Have you looked at using 'Alfred' as search tool - It's free on the App Store and very flexible, and has a wider results view. If you try it, take a little time to get familiar with the options - I find it a fantastic time saver.
A: There are hacks for the resultant Finder window but nothing for the actual results pane dropdown
A: I am not sure this answers to the question (and moreover I am using 10.5), but you already know that if you hover over a result for a couple of seconds, it shows the complete file name and path, don't you?
A: I would suggest using Quicksilver. Note that it is still in beta, but it is a pretty stable beta. It is a little complicated to use, but it is more that just a replacement for Spotlight. It has smart capabilities, so it remembers what you typed recently. For me, I use Chrome a lot, so when I type "C" it automatically knows that I want Chrome. It also does provide dictionary results from dict.org and it displays them in a way that you can see them. Let me know if you do use this as it can be confusing for new users.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7286",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Can I connect an iPad and an Eye-Fi Card? I have the Eye-Fi Pro X2 Card and an iPad. I just wonder if there is a way to transfer pictures from my camera wirelessly without going through the Internet or a real wireless network - basically I want an ad-hoc connection between the iPad and the card.
I do own the iPad camera connection kit which works, but that kinda defeats the purpose of an Eye-Fi Card in the first place :)
A: Apparently, it's coming soon to Eye-Fi cards, and they will have firmware upgrades for all existing cards..
http://www.eye.fi/press-releases/great-images-and-instant-gratification-with-eye-fis-direct-mode-the-mobile-solution
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7296",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Font Book does not Install all fonts My Mac decided to delete all but 19 fonts, which is fairly annoying. It didn't really delete them, as in I still have the original files in the /Library/Fonts folder, but they've disappeared from Font Book, so I can't use them.
Now, Apple says that you can select a folder to install all fonts in that folder, but when I try that, the spinning wheel (not the beach ball) comes up in the lower right hand corner for a few seconds and then leaves, without installing any fonts. The same thing happens if I use the + sign in the menu bar, select multiple, or if I try validating and then installing (actually, that installs one font).
Is there any way to mass-install these fonts or will I have to install them one by one?
System info: Mac OS X 10.5.8 running Font Book 2.1 (123).
A: I'll bet you have a font corruption problem.
*
*Split the uninstalled fonts into two groups.
*Import the first group.
*Check to see if they imported successfully.
*
*If yes, you know the problem is in the second group, so go to step #1.
*If no, the second group might be okay, so try importing that.
And so on.
You should be able to narrow down the problem without having to import each font one at a time. But my guess is that one or more of your fonts is corrupted.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7301",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How to make a jailbroken iPhone appear un-jailbroken to network provider? I'd like to jailbreak my iPhone but have it appear to my network provider as if it isn't jailbroken. This should be do-able, but what do I need to do to make this happen?
I have an iPhone 4 currently running iOS 4.2.
EDIT: Canadian politics is tricky. Part of the potential new copyright law would make defeating any sort of weak sauce encryption illegal. Essentially, the copyright holder would have it's rights fully supported, and as for the user, well they get what's left. This is going on at the same time as our bandwidth cap issues. I just want to be proactive, for when the "unforseen QoS problems" begin to arise here. So, not a neutral ISP situation.
A: The network provider can't see if it's jailbroken or not. They might be able to detect if you're using Skype over 3G or other non-3G apps but they won't be able to discover it by simply jailbraking it.
A: The only visible change that jailbreaking does is the installation of the cydia app on your homescreen.
what i would suggest is to go into cydia and get an app called Poof to hide the cydia icon. You can follow the guide here http://www.iphoneappsandhacks.com/how-to-hide-icons-on-iphone-or-ipod-touch.html, or you can hide it in a folder with a bunch of other apps.
A: If that's true why can some apps detect it anyway? I installed e.g. Voddler on my iPhone yesterday; a free app to see movies without a charge. I can't see any movies because the app detected my iPhone as jailbroken and I got a message saying that jailbroken devices are not allowed to play the movies.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7302",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Does a Wireshark implementation exist for iPhone 4? Does a Wireshark implementation exist for iPhone 4? I recently felt a need to have some tools with me at all times.
A: If you have a jail broken iPhone you can ssh into it and install tcpdump. Tcpdump is a command line program that wireshark is indirectly built off of.
A: There's no WireShark app for iPhone no but there are a few Network Diagnostics tools which may do what you need since you don't state exactly what you want to do. Take a look at Network Diagnostics Utility Pro which is $4.99 and might cover your requirements.
A: pirni is an iOS packet capture tool that does ARP poisoning and can dump to PCAP for analysis in Wireshark on a desktop.
pirni-derv can do some basic analysis on iOS.
A: Unfortunately, there is no official version of Wireshark on iPhone. However, there is one for Macs.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7303",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Strange behaviour from delete key on a non-apple keyboard I have a fairly generic USB keyboard plugged into my MacBook Pro. The Delete key doesn't seem to do anything most of the time. When I try to create a shortcut using it (to display the key code) it acts as if it's dead. Other keys around it (Home/End/PgUp/PgDn) seem to work fine.
Now here's the really interesting part. When I push the key in text edit, it seems to do a delete-forward.
I want to use this key with Cmd (the Windows key on my keyboard) to move files to the Trash. Can anybody explain why this key is acting the way it is? Can anyone suggest a utility which will tell me which key I am pressing on my keyboard? I used to use xev on an X Windows system. Is there something like that on a Mac without X installed?
Actually, I want the Delete key, by itself to do what Cmd Bkspc does in Finder. It moves a file to the trash.
But the standard OS X keyboard shortcut window won't accept any of the keys in the 6-key block with (Ins/Del/Home/End/PgUp/PgDn)
It's interesting. When I first pull up the keyboard viewer, it shows a diagram of a standard Mac keyboard. As soon as I hit one of the above 6 keys, the map changes to an extended keyboard closer to what I have. But the diagram has my Cmd/Opt keys swapped.
Is there any way for me to tell the OS I am using an extended keyboard?
The frustrating thing is, Mac OS is training me to use that key. It does something useful in lots of built-in applications. But I can't assign it to a hot key.
iCal - deletes an appointment (Cmd+Backspace does the same)
textedit - deletes forward
A: That's completely normal. The key called delete on Windows is called forward delete on OS X, even though it's often labeled like delete ⌦. It deletes a character forward in text views. It doesn't delete items in many applications like Finder, presumably because it would be too easy to press accidentally.
Many shortcut recorders don't allow using just forward delete as a shortcut. You can often edit the property lists that store the shortcuts directly though. See How to remap delete and shift+delete keys to delete and permanently delete a file in Mac OS X Lion?.
A: Perhaps you should replace your generic PC keyboard with a modestly-priced external USB keyboard designed specifically for Mac OS X.
I use the Matias USB 2.0 keyboard, which costs US $30.00.
MacAlly makes a range of models that start at US $20.00.
A: There's an (albeit old) application called "AsyncKeys" (http://asynckeys.mac.findmysoft.com/)
You'll need Rosetta for this to run if you're on an intel mac.
It should tell you what key you are pressing.
Cheers.
A: You don't say whether you've tried it already, but I'd try the built-in OS X Keyboard Viewer first -- you access it from the menu bar, but you need to turn it on in the Keyboard system prefs, Keyboard tab first.
A: ControllerMate should do the job.
It lets you map any key to any function anywhere (aside from hardware keys like the on/off button). All functions are keyboard-specific, that is you can and must consider each keyboard separately. E.g. my ShiftLock keys function as a left-hand equivalent of Return, ⌘-Return, ⌘-P and Delete and Forward Delete key, in combination with modifiers.
Only problem: it's not really the most straightforward UI, with flow sheets on a plane and several floating windows. I spent quite some time trying and configuring some media keys... Still, a single reassignment is pretty simple.
Most important: it's a hack close to hardware but it's been rock solid on Leopard and Snow Leopard, after a short period without a stable version. No comparison to some vendor's drivers.
A: Use BetterTocuhTool to assign cmd+delete to cmd+backspace. I have just done this for my old full USB Mac keyboard (alu/white) on my M1 Macbook Air :
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7310",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Could an upgrade edition of Windows be used to install boot camp if you connect two external DVD drives? I found the following FAQ on Apple's website:
Why can't an upgraded version of Microsoft Windows XP or a full version of Microsoft Windows XP that does not include Service Pack 2 (SP2) or later be used for installation?
An upgraded version of Microsoft Windows XP cannot be used because you are required to validate your copy of Windows by inserting an original Windows CD, but there is no way to eject the first disc until after Windows installation is complete and the Boot Camp drivers from the Mac OS X 10.6 DVD are installed.
And so I was wondering if you had two DVD drives hooked up to a MacBook Air, could you install boot camp using an upgrade version of Windows 7?
A: What are you trying to upgrade it from? If the answer is WinXP, then no.
From Apple's 10.6 bootcamp install pdf:
Upgrading to Windows Vista or Windows 7
You can upgrade Windows XP to Windows Vista or Windows Vista to Windows 7.
Note: If you’re using Windows XP, you cannot upgrade to Windows 7. You can perform
a clean install (also called a custom install), which erases your Boot Camp partition.
Before you perform a clean install, make sure you have the installation discs for all your
programs and a backup of your personal files and settings. You can restore them after
the installation.
A: The upgrade version of Windows 7 works slightly differently to Windows XP. While I can't speak with 100% confidence, I believe you can do a full install of Windows 7 from the upgrade media without needing an existing OS disc to insert.
This article outlines a method to achieve this, with some caveats (i.e. it's not on a Mac, but on a PC).
http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media.aspx
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7313",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
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Q: How can I work with highlighted text annotations from Good Reader in Preview? Good Reader on the iPad has two forms of annotating PDFs:
*
*You can press and hold a location, and press Note to create a note icon with an annotation.
*You can select text, and then press highlight. You can then tap the highlighted text and press open to add a text annotation to this highlighted text.
I sent an annotated PDF to my mac via email. Preview handles the first annotations very well by displaying an editable note. The problem is with the second form of annotations. While Preview does show the highlighted text, there doesn't seem to be a way to easily modify, view, or copy the annotation that goes along with that text.
If I hover over the text, I can see the annotation text that goes along with the preview. What I would ideally like to do is one or more of the following:
*
*Identify which highlights have text or don't have text. Currently it is very difficult to know if a highlight has text or not. The only method I know of is to hover over the text and see if it contains a tooltip or not. Ideally I want the annotations list on the right panel to show me which highlights have text annotations.
*Copy the text from the annotations. It's currently located in a tooltip which cannot be selected.
*Modify the text in the annotations, e.g. using the same interface that normal text annotations can be modified.
*Convert these highlighted text annotations to the standard text annotations that Preview handles well.
A: Probably this is not possible with Preview, but there is another (free) PDF reader that allows you to do this (at least your first three points, don't know about converting into another annotation kind): Skim.
After you've opened your PDF in Skim, you can choose Convert Notes... in the File menu. Then you have all your notes from Goodreader in the drawer panel on the right.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7317",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
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Q: What areas of the MacBook Air should I keep clear? According to the User's Guide of the MacBook Air, it says:
Set up your MacBook Air on a stable work surface that
allows for adequate air circulation under and around the computer. Do not operate
your MacBook Air on a pillow or other soft material, as the material can block the
airflow vents.
The only airflow vents I see are in the back right where the screen and keyboard meet. Thus, I'm wondering if covering the front 90% of the bottom of the MacBook Air with something soft such as a cloth (i.e. the part with no vents) will have any adverse effects on the cooling mechanism. The only thing I can think of is that the bottom of the laptop acts as passive cooling by having that little bit of air between the bottom of the laptop and the desk its sitting on. Having it on a cloth or something similar would no longer provide this air cushion and would affect the cooling mechanism of the laptop.
Is my theory about how the passive cooling works correct? Or is it fine to use the laptop on something such as a pillow as long as it doesn't cover the end that has the vents?
A: You are correct. While the major fan vent is in the back, it is important that air can circulate under the laptop. This is because the bottom side of the laptop can get hot, and the space between the laptop and the (hard) surface helps release that heat. A soft, squishy surface will just trap it and push it right back up into the computer.And a computer with only one fan vent needs all the help it can get.
That said, you should be OK using the laptop on something soft for most of the time. It's when the fan starts spinning that you really should move to something more solid.
To keep an eye on how hot your computer is,\ and how fast the fans are going, I use the free iStat Pro widget.
Hope this helps.
A: Cooling can occur via radiation, in addition to advection, convection, diffusion, etc.
A fan moves air which both advects and convects. But your laptop can also dissipate heat via radiation, which happens through any surface, and does not require holes or slots.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7319",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Does MoneyWell have a "jars" system? Does MoneyWell have a "jars" system?
I imagine if I have PHP 1000, I want to be able to "give every peso a job" like place it in a "jar" for example. Then I want MoneyWell to track that "jar" for me, like if it's positive, I'm obliged to spend it (or transfer it to an untouchable savings account). If it's negative, it means I'm over the budget.
A: I think that is how moneywell works.
Every month or week depending on your salary period you allocate your income to buckets (which think correspond to your jars) and then when you spend anything you take hat money from a bucket. If the bucket is positive you are in budget otherwise you had better work out where to cut your budget.
The buckets are your budget are are a different split to you accounts which show where all your money is saved etc.
See the video tutorials for more examples.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7321",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How do I set up DynDNS on my MacBook? I want to create a host name that points to my MacBook dynamically, so I can have a chance to take back the control if it was stolen. I opened ssh and vnc, but I have no idea how to find my machine. Maybe DynDNS is a solution?
A: Go to www.dyndns.com and register. Then install the dynamic updater on your Mac and follow the installation instructions. This will then connect to www.dyndns.com and update your DNS information whenever your Mac is connected to the internet. You could then use SSH or other means to log onto your Mac from an iPhone or other computer/Mac by connecting to the URL (e.g. - mymacbook.dyndns.com) you select upon registering on dyndns.com.
There are another couple of steps. You need to get your broadband router to forward traffic coming in on specific ports to your Mac. You should be able to find a how-to on www.portforward.com for your router model. You also need to setup a static IP for your Mac which is best done on your router. Your routers documentation should tell you how to do this.
A: Another option (a bit more pricey) in addition to the one suggested by Griffo's would be signing up for MobileMe ("Back to my Mac").
Or if you are by chance operating your own domain name server somewhere, you can set up dynamic DNS there yourself through the Sharing->Edit... tab.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7322",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Duplicating images and resizing one of the copies in Automator I am trying to create an Automator action for a workflow I often need for web publishing:
*
*Select some images inside Aperture
*Export two copies of the original image with different resizing settings applied (say, a 1000 px version for viewing and a 150 px thumbnail)
*Rename the exported copies, prompting me for a file name
I have not yet found a possibility to actually duplicate input files and then work with one of the duplicates in finder. Using the following sequence of actions results in the error message "could not access the needed files":
*
*Select Finder objects
*Scale images (to 1000 px)
*Duplicate Finder objects (the idea is that the duplicate should remain at 1000 px and the subsequent edits only affect the copy)
*Scale images (to thumbnail size)
Any ideas what's wrong here? I suspect that the duplicate action doesn't return any file handles to the next one, but I could be wrong.
A: This workflow seems to have worked for me, is this what you did?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7325",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to share my Snow Leopard Mac's connection to my HTC Desire running Android? I have an HTC Desire that currently cannot connect to the internet and a Mac that can. I want the HTC Desire to be able to connect to the internet.
My Mac (running Snow Leopard 10.6.6) is connected to the internet over Wi-Fi.
Now I want to share my Mac's internet connection with my HTC Desire (Android 2.2).
On my HTC Desire I don't have root access.
On my Mac I have super user access.
Can I share my internet connection?
If it doesn't work with a Mac can i get this to work with Windows?
I do have a jailbroken iPod touch 2g with iOS 4.0, if the helps with any of this.
A: OK so you need to connect to the internet via your MacBook to get around a MAC filter on your router. You can share your MacBooks connection but it would need to be plugged into the router.
I don't think it's possible to do it like this:
HTC >> WiFi >> MacBook >> WiFi >> router
You need to do it like this instead:
HTC >> WiFi >> MacBook >> Ethernet >> router
So you plug the MacBook into the router and connect to that from your phone over WiFi. You can do this as follows:
*
*Choose Apple > System Preferences, and then click Sharing.
*Select Internet Sharing.
*Choose a network service from the “Share your connection from” pop-up menu, Ethernet for example in your case.
*Select a networking service to share your Internet connection from the “To computers using” list, AirPort for example.
*Click AirPort Options and give your network a name and password.
*Connect to your MacBook over the WiFi network you just set up.
A: *
*Use Jailbroken iPod 2G to spoof the Mac MAC address, so your iPod is now online.
*Tether the Mac to the iPod and use PdaNET or MyWi on the iPod so that your Mac is online through your tethered iPod
*On the Mac, set up Internet Sharing, and share your existing connection from the tether to a WiFi network
*On the HTC, connect to the WiFi network.
Schematic:
Internet > (Wireless) > iPod > (Tether) > Mac > (Wireless) > HTC
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7329",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Will I damage my HDD if I transport my MacBook in sleep mode? Is it safe to carry MacBook with HDD in a bag while it has been put sleep? I.e. I know there are some risks of hard disk drive damage if one tries to shake them or rotate them while they're working. But is the HDD working while the Macbook is asleep?
A: The HDD is put to sleep while the computer is sleeping. Unless you wake up the computer, the HDD will be safely spun down with the needle out of the way.
A: MacBooks are fine to be transported when in sleep mode. When a MacBook goes into sleep, it takes 20-30 seconds to save the current state to the HDD, while this is happening you'll see the status light shine brightly. Once it goes into a slow pulse, the MacBook is asleep and the HDD is inactive so there is no risk to the HDD from normal movement in a bag for example. Just make sure you don't throw it into the bag until it's fully asleep. MacBooks also have a 'Sudden Motion Sensor' which can prevent damage to the HDD by the computer parking the head of the HDD if it detects that it is being shaken or is falling. Read about it on the apple support pages or in the excerpt below:
Sudden Motion Sensor technology is built-in protection for the hard
disk, designed to help prevent disk issues if the computer is dropped
or if it senses unusually strong vibration. Apple has adjusted this
feature carefully to provide the best balance between protecting the
hard drive and preventing unwanted activation of the Sudden Motion
Sensor. Most Apple portable owners never need to turn this feature
off. Apple suggests that you not modify the settings unless absolutely
necessary.
In some environments, such as live concert halls, recording studios,
or dance clubs, external vibrations may be major enough to cause the
module to unexpectedly park the hard drive heads, resulting in
interrupted sound or video playback. In these situations, you may find
that you want to disable the feature temporarily.
Also see page 23 of this manual
and page 16 of this manual
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7331",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Which Wireless-N Routers are compatible with Apple products? I have an iPhone 4, iPad, and MacBook Air, all of which support Wi-Fi 802.11n. However, there are many routers out there that were created before the official N spec was finalized (e.g. those based on drafts). How do I know which routers will be compatible with my Apple products?
A: The simple answer is buy an Airport Extreme
Otherwise use the internet and read reviews. Virtually any draft-N or official N spec routers will 'work'. As with anything, the only way to be absolutely sure is to try them out.
A: I think you would be hard pressed to find a router that won't work correctly with the products listed. However, if you are concerned get any N router (non-draft) and you will be flying. As for features, I'd go for the cheapest router that supports a USB port (for connecting printers or scanners) and a few wired connections.
A: All n routers should be compatible.
You can always check to see if they have firmware updates as well to bring them up from draft to spec and finally, unless all of the devices that are going to be using it are n (I'm thinking our Wii and wireless printer in the apt here), then you'll end up having to turn b/g on as well - which they all can connect to.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7335",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Cropping frustration in iPhoto 11 -> iMovie 11
*
*set up a slide show.
*select 'sliding panel' theme. Set aspect ratio to 4:3
*observe that, on the very first image, the program has chosen a bad crop. there's uninteresting stuff on the right (next to the text title) and not enough of the left side.
*use the hand tool to move the image and fix the crop.
*export to a quicktime movie using 'custom export'
*play quicktime movie with quicktime player
*observe that cropping is now different -- back more or less to the original.
*import into iMovie
*image is then recropped on the left, resulting in complete frustration.
Any way out of this? Is there something about aspect ratio that I don't understand, or is iLife 11 just buggier than a new york hotel?
A: Make sure you have it set to Preserve Aspect Ratio: Letterbox.
Photo in this question.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7336",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Least annoying slideshow export format for iPhoto to iMovie When percolating slide shows from iPhoto '11 to iMovie '11, what is best format to choose for export to minimize wasted disk space and time, given that I do not want to carry any audio? I've been using QuickTime, on the theory that Apple's programs would behave best with Apple's format, but I'm beginning to wonder.
A: The H.264 codec that the QuickTime format uses is a part of MPEG-4.
To get the best results, tweak the options for MPEG4.
Go File → Export → Slideshow → Custom Export → Movie to MPEG-4 → Options….
Below is a screen cap of the options I recommend for you. You can adjust the resolution and bitrate depending on the quality you want (higher numbers = higher quality).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7339",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How can I force iPhone to resync contacts from server? I sync email, contacts and calendar to my company's Exchange server. This morning all of my contacts are gone from my iPhone (iPhone 4, iOS 4.2.1). Facts that further explain:
*
*My contacts were good last night
*I haven't synched to my computer, updated any apps or changed any settings since then
*I'm getting email and my calendar entries are all good.
*I see all my contacts when I log into the web mail interface to the Exchange server
Is there a way to tell the iPhone to wise up and realize that it has screwed up its contacts?
A: Maybe you've already tried this but I'll suggest it anyway.
Check Groups
*
*Open Contacts
*Tap the arrow in the upper-left corner labelled Groups if it exists.
*Ensure you have selected the right group of contacts.
Try Re-Sync
If you need to re-sync because the above did not work you could try this:
*
*Open the Settings app
*Open Accounts & Passwords (or the Mail section on older iOS).
*Select the account causing problems. (Usually called Exchange.)
*Turn Contacts off and tap ‘Delete From My iPhone’ when prompted.
*Turn Contacts back on and tap ‘Sync’ when prompted.
A: Above trick worked perfectly for my iPhone 5S. Thank you very much. After my new carrier asked me to reset ALL on my phone, I had lost everything, Google contacts, emails, etc.
If you need to re-sync because the above did not work you could try this:
Open the Settings app
Open the Mail settings. (This is listed as Mail, Contacts, Calendars on older iPhones.)
Select the account causing problems. (Usually called Exchange.)
Turn Contacts off and tap Delete From My iPhone when prompted.
Turn Contacts back on and tap Sync when prompted.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7340",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Making a digital TV out of cinema display I have an old cinema display 20", and I'd like to ask if I can make a digital TV out of this display.
*
*Can I buy any tuner for it? What more do I have to buy if necessary?
*What kind of tuners are in the market? What do you recommend?
A: The answer is that it depends on what you have at the moment. If you just have a cable outlet in the wall and the cinema display then yes you need something in between such as a tuner. The type of tuner will depend on the type of signal being sent by your cable TV provider (digital/analogue). Then you'll need a cable which will connect the tuner to the cinema display and you'll also need separate speakers. This also means that your tuner will have to have an audio outlet to connect to the speakers.
With a standard analog TV signal, the TV itself is the tuner. With a digital signal the tuner can be built into the tv or it can be in a set-top box. To make the cinema display function as a TV you need to have a digital signal and then you need a set-top box which would allow you to change channels.
To recommend specific tuners etc. you would have to describe specifically what your cable TV connection is and how you are expected to connect it to an ordinary TV. Then you can work on figuring out how to connect the cinema display which is just like a digital TV with no speakers and no remote.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7344",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Does the use of SSD give one a dramatic performance boost? I use Mac book pro 15", and it's time to buy a new one.
For HDD, now I see a new option of SSD, which is pretty expensive.
I can expect shorter boot-up time and faster access of files, but I'm not sure if it's worth the money.
*
*Does the use of SSD give one a dramatic performance boost?
*Is buying SSD from Apple a good idea? It seems the price difference between HDD and SSD is more than the price of SSD in retail.
A: TRIM is a slightly outdated concern with the latest SSDs, it was a big problem with first or second generation drives. If you choose the right drive - one that has been recommended by many is the OWC Mercury Extreme Pro - then you should have no noticeable speed degradation. If you must have SSD now the Sandforce controller is probably your best option, not what Apple offer as BTO.
If I was buying a new Mac today I'd still take the traditional drive just because price/performance is not quite there yet on SSD, even though performance increase is huge. If you can live with your snappy new MacBook Pro for even six months without a SSD (and I bet you can), and then buy a SSD and upgrade yourself you will pay less for more capacity. Additionally you may see drives based on 25nm flash technology become available using even less power with even more speed and capacity.
A: SSDs on MacOS X will be significantly faster, for a while. However, the OS does not support the TRIM command, so it will slow down significantly, to the point where a full wipe (zeroing out the drive) will be necessary.
More reading here: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/apple/2010/07/01/mac-ssd-performance-trim-in-osx/1
As you'll see from the review, it's not a good idea to buy from Apple because their SSDs are slow to start with. If you do go with a third party drive, make sure that you're aware of the need to zero it out periodically, at least until OS X supports TRIM.
EDIT: As pointed out in the comments, SSDs that don't have TRIM support can still have an efficient Garbage Collection algorithm that mitigates the problems of not having TRIM, so your net effect is still a superior performance over mechanical drives.
That said, I'm sticking to the mechanical drives for now, for personal reasons, in that I find them more reliable over the long term than SSDs. This opinion may well change in the next few months or years.
A: I disagree with Randolph's Answer. If anything, the article says exactly the opposite of the "good performance for a while" part.
What we found was the exact opposite: an OS that doesn't appear to be affected by SSD performance degradation
And I don't have Apple's SSD. I have an OWC on a Mac Pro and haven't had any performance degradation since I brought it, about six month ago. Before that, I had an Intel drive and also never had degradation problems under OSX. I changed the drive because my 1st drive was too small. That Intel-M drive is running on a laptop with Windows 7 Home Premium.
So far, it has been proven that OS X doesn't suffer from the lack of TRIM support; what we don't know if that's because the OS/FileSystem is doing something different or because there's TRIM support hidden and not reported.
In any case, getting a SSD is really a performance increase. I only use it for the OS and some minor things, the rest sits on a mirrored SATA RAID, but this is a Mac Pro, so things are different.
On small Macbooks, the usage of SSD is like day and night and I haven't seen performance degradation over the course of a Year.
Maybe there is one, but if that's the case, it's so slow that by the time is significant, you'll be either changing the drive or the whole computer.
I've been using SSD since late 2009.
I recommend you don't get one from Apple, as they tend to overcharge. Get one of the many SSD's alternatives like Corsairs, Intels or the OWC I have, which I heavily recommend.
But the SSD market is in a constant evolution, so read before you buy.
A: Great performance boost, apps cold startup is 1-5 sec, depending on the app
I have a 2,5" 120GB Intel 520 SATAIII SSD and HDD setup in 2011 MBP
TRIM enabled with Trim Enabler, after restart 'Yes' appeared.
Executed some instructions from http://blog.alutam.com/2012/04/01/optimizing-macos-x-lion-for-ssd/
If you have lots of RAM and not using Photoshop or virtualization (VirtualBox, Parallels, etc) than section "Use RAM disk or HDD for temporary files" could a performance boost
A: It gives a huge boost. My MacBook now boots in just 8 seconds, down from a minute and a half.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7345",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "18"
} |
Q: How to make iPhoto library back into bundle I recently recovered from a disk failure and while most of my files are ok, I'm having trouble with my iPhoto library.
While it appears that the data fro the iPhoto library is intact in the recovered files, the library now appears as a folder rather than a bundle. As a result, iPhoto will not recognize or open the library.
Is there any way to make it back into a bundle either from the GUI or via the Terminal?
A: EDIT: Changed my answer. :-)
I copied my iPhoto Library, and removed the extended attributes (a piece of metadata called com.apple.finderInfo). It then showed up as a folder rather than a proper iPhoto Library. I then fired up iPhoto holding option, and selected this folder as my iPhoto Library. It accepted it and changed the type, putting the metadata back, and all was well. I suspect this is what needs to happen in your case as well, it looks like as long as the files are there, iPhoto will do the work for you.
Old answer: I think you can rename it to 'iPhoto Library.bundle'. It will then take the form of a bundle. You can then remove the '.bundle' from the file name and it should (still) act bundle-like.
Not really sure though.
EDIT: or .app
A: You could do the following:
*
*Move or rename your existing folder that is not behaving correctly.
*Launch iPhoto with the Opt key and select a new library.
*Select the default location: /Users/*yourname*/Pictures/iPhoto Library
*Quit iPhoto
*Select the new library in Finder and then select "Show Package Contents"
*Drag everything from your old mis-behaving folder into the new folder
*Launch iPhoto (without Opt)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7349",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Using a SuperDrive temporarily for one time installations? Does Apple (or any oter company) have such a service which would let you temporarily use a SuperDrive (or other external DVD Drive)? I have a MacBook Air and in order to install boot camp, I need an external DVD drive. Paying $80 for a one-time use of a DVD drive sounds absurd. For that reason, I was wondering if Apple or any other company has some kind of service which allows you to bring in your laptop and use a SuperDrive for one time installations. I wouldn't even mind paying for such a service as long as it's significantly lower than the $80 for a SuperDrive.
Any other ideas besides buying a cheaper alternative of the SuperDrive?
A: You can use the CD drive of any other computer (Mac or Windows) on your network, for free. See this Apple doc for directions.
A: Hmm. If I were you, I'd find a way to image the DVD and deploy it onto a USB stick. You never know when you might need it. I think it's as simple as imaging it, and then in Disk Utility, "restoring" the image to the USB device of your choice.
But I've never done that, so I don't know.
A: If you really want a ONE TIME install, go to any Apple Store and let them use one of the drives there. I'm sure they'll have no problem. Tell them you want to try before you buy ;)
In other news, you can put Windows 7 on a USB Stick and install it from there. I've used the DVD only once, to create the USB Stick. There are instructions over the net on how to do that, even from outside Windows (but if you have a Win machine to do it, it's faster because there's a free tool).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7351",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What iPad apps are available that support handwriting recognition? What iPad apps are available that support handwriting recognition?
Are there any good iPad apps for taking notes that can recognize handwriting?
A: You might like to checkout Writepad - it sounds like it does pretty much everything you are asking. I've used it before, and found it worked pretty well. It's only $4.99US at the moment as well, so maybe a good time to give it a go.
I also use Plecodict which is an English-Chinese dictionary, which has handwriting recognition for learning new characters (and an optical recognition mode as well) - just mentioning it because you didn't specify a certain language.
Good luck.
A: WritePad is definitely a good option. PhatPad, from the same publisher (Phatware), also does it, along with standard keyboard input and some drawing capability.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7355",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
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Q: What are the bad points of the iPod Touch? I'm thinking of buying an iPod Touch. But first I'd like to know what its bad points are so I can decide better if it's suitable for me and if I can find better alternatives.
The reason why I'm considering the iPod Touch is because I want a device that is not a phone, I can listen to music and podcasts while walking, and it has a browser (wireless connection is fine) on which I can quickly check news and tweets. Perhaps I should add that this would be my first Apple product.
So I'd like to learn from your experience. What don't you like about an iPod Touch?
A: Look at it this way. If you want to play games and use apps, browse the internet, all that jazz, you want the touch. If you want to carry every song you own and maybe some videos, get an iPod classic. If you are a jogger who only needs a few songs at a time, get a shuffle or nano.
Also, someone said it was slippery. This is correct. Get a case if you have a touch. I dropped my 2nd generation and shattered the screen when it hit at the corner. I have a 4th generation now and got a case for it just in case. The classic isn't as slippery, but it's always nice to have a case for any device you're going to be whipping around with you all the time.
A: No GPS and it doesn't vibrate :)
Other than that I think Apple has done a fantastic job on it. Make sure to get the latest one though.
A: In my day to day usage I only found on thing missing wich is quite annoying and IMHO a design flaw: There is no mute/pause-resume button or any way to pause and resume the playback with one single click. You always have to get that device out of your pocket, turn the screen on, unlock the screen, go to they playback controls and press pause/play.
Batterylife is also an issue if you play games or run wifi enabled apps. But you won't find any other device that is better in that regard either.
A: *
*If you're using Windows, you're basically locked into using iTunes to manage your content; some people don't like iTunes.
*Syncing non-media content is weird, too. There isn't a unified sync system. I sync calendar via Google Calendar, notes via SimpleNote, and general files with Dropbox. Some apps only sync with your computer over WiFi, which is a hassle for me at work where the wireless network is not set to permit this. Sync is really important for the iPod Touch because it's nice to have a lot of your data at hand all the time, but it's a pain to type it in manually because it's so small.
*You can't easily update podcasts on the device. I couldn't sync for one week one time and had to update each episode by finding it in the iTunes store.
*It's really smooth, so if your hands are greasy it's easy to drop. Mine has handled drops well. I'm glad I use plastic screen protectors, though.
These are the most potent drawbacks I could come up with. I haven't found any comparable devices that solve these problems any better, though. Non-phone smart devices that fit in your pocket that aren't iPod Touches basically don't exist now; there are some Android devices in the works. I'm delighted by my iPod Touch and absolutely recommend the device.
A: I own an iPod touch, and it is a cool device. The most useful feature it has, in my opinion, is the app which allows you to use it as a remote control for my Mac Mini when using iTunes. The screen is a bit small for most other activities, such as reading and typing. Therefore, based on what you wrote, I would suggest buying an iPad instead. I prefer my Kindle for reading. I plan to buy the new generation iPad so that I can comfortably browse the net while laying in bed or my couch. I can't stand typing on a small or touch screen, therefore I don't see my Macbook losing favor any time soon.
A: After owning an iPhone 4 I really don't like the shiny case any more. It is way slimmer than the iPhone 3 and I just can't grip it or pick it up well since there is so little of it and it is very shiny and slippery.
Apart from that if you don't want 3G networking I don't see many disadvantages.
A: iTunes is horrid at organising music (especially if you have an existing library not created using it), and slow too. It's a shame such good hardware is lumbered with a 3rd rate application. On Windows MediaMonkey is a viable alternative since it keeps pace with Apple's constant tinkering with the database structure of the iPod. If it wasn't for the Upnp apps like PlugPlayer, I wouldn't be so enamoured with mine.
A: I think the lack of a camera and Bluetooth make it much less useful.
The sort of all in one device that does everything but the phone is great. But not quite there on the Touch yet.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7367",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: how can i subscribe to a podcast series from itunes on my ipod touch I see i can download individual podcasts one by one but i can't figure out how to subscribe to an entire podcast going forward on my ipod touch.
is this possible or can you only do this from itunes on your computer??
A: As far as I know, you can't subscribe to them from your iTunes app on your iPod.
The easiest way I know of is to subscribe to whatever podcast you want to listen to in your preferred feed reader, and then whenever that podcast is updated you'll see it in your feed. From there you can just choose to play or download it. Hopefully this helps solve your issue.
A: Although it doesn't integrate with iTunes, Instacast will let you subscribe and download new episodes to podcasts.
| {
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"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7373",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Best audio converter for Mac I'm searching for an audio converter for mac with wide capabilities. It should be able to:
*
*Convert to flac (not from flac)
*Split cue files into separate tracks
*Grab audio CDs
*Edit ID3-tags in batch mode
Ability to convert different audio formats to MP3 and ALAC would be a big plus :)
If there is no such ultimate tool, could you please provide links to some separate tools that have the different functionalities listed above.
Thanks in advance!
A: I use Max converter It can converts to many format but have some cons too :(
A: My suggestion is the same presented here previously, but I use them for different things.
Both Rip and XLD are good rippers for Mac. They support AccurateRip and use MusicBrainz for metadata, so you get certified rips with good tags.
I always rip first to FLAC (single FLAC file + CUE) and them convert the rip into individual MP3 files. If I need to rerip, I go for the FLAC file, not the CD.
If I used XLD for both tasks, I would be constantly messing with the configuration, changing from FLAC to MP3, and every now and then would forget and rip to the wrong format. So, I use XLD for the initial rip and Max to convert the FLAC into MP3.
Later I learned about SBooth's Rip and started using it instead of XLD. Rip's advantage is that it adopts a smarter ripping strategy, only resorting to more powerful ripping technique when it finds a problem. So, initially Rip tries to fast rip a CD and match against AccurateRip, if it succeeds it is done otherwise it will try to overrip and else.
So, usually, Rip is a lot faster than XLD and will generate a good rip, but now and then it will rip nothing because the CD has a fatal flaw. For those, I use XLD, that will try a lot harder to make a Rip and produce a file even if it can't rip correctly.
A: My favorite converter is XLD. It converts to flac, splits cue files, it supports metadata correction (using CDDB), and embeds album artwork. It is the closest I could find to dBpoweramp.
A: Max always crashes for me, had it on a few different versions of OS X too but it has a tendency to crash when you select the formats pane in the preferences.
The best fix for this bug that I have found is to trash the files in ~/Library/Application Support/Max then relaunch the application.
Stay away from mediahuman unless you like being infected with adware, it is infected with Nod32, a variant of Win32 /drweb OpenCandy.A/ Adware.OpenCandy.39. It is only adware but the way that it embeds itself deep into the OS X system means that it has root access and could quite easily do a lot more harm.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7375",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How to nuke everything from imac and start it at the beginning from scratch like i first bought it I have some problems that i cannot resolve on my iMac and now I would like to delete everything and start it from scratch like when i first bought it a few years ago. Please show me the steps.
Thanks,
Jon
A: The easiest way is as follows:
You will need the original (or a newer) Mac OS X install disk for the computer. Do not use and older version than originally came with the Mac, and do not use the install disk from any other model of Mac.
Insert the disk and restart the computer pressing the Option key as it restarts. After about a minute when it loads, click the arrow under your installer DVD to boot from it.
When it starts, click continue on English. In the menu bar, select Utilities and select Disk Utility. Disk Utility may be under a different menu on some install disks.
Select your disk in the left column (select the disk, not the partition (select the one labeled something weird, not "Macintosh HD")) and follow the instructions to erase the disk. For best results choose the option to "securely erase" the disk, or to overwrite the data with 0's rather than just mark as free space. It will take longer but is more secure (if your data was valuable) and cleans the disk better. Then close Disk Utility and install the operating system on the newly erased disk.
Viola! Brand new Mac OS X. Enjoy the startup video ;)
A: There's a nice write-up on TUAW on how to do this:
Erase and Install
This will erase the contents of your
drive, format it into HFS+ and install
Leopard clean. EVERYTHING ON YOUR HARD
DRIVE WILL BE ERASED. If you choose
this option, it is crucial that you
back-up all of your data safely before
the installation. If you select this
option, you can click on an "Options"
button that will give you additional
choices, for instance, removing
language files you may never use --
but if choices make you uncomfortable,
just go for the standard installation.
A: To reinstall Leopard visit this Apple Support page or follow these steps:
*
*Insert the Mac OS X Install Disc and double-click the Install Mac OS X
icon.
*Follow the onscreen instructions. In the pane where you select the
destination disk, select your current
Mac OS X disk (in most cases, it will
be the only one available).
*Click Options. If you want to save your existing files, users, and
network settings, select “Archive and
Install,” and then select “Preserve
Users and Network Settings.” If you
want to erase everything on your
computer and reinstall Mac OS X,
select “Erase and Install.” You can’t
recover erased data.
*Click Continue.
*Click Customize to select which parts of Mac OS X you’d like to
install, or click Install to perform a
basic installation (recommended).
To reinstall Snow Leopard visit this Apple Support page or follow these steps:
Important: This procedure will completely erase your hard drive. If
you have installed Microsoft Windows
using Boot Camp, or have multiple
partitions, this procedure will erase
the partition you select.
Part One: Erasing the hard drive
*
*Turn on the computer.
*Insert the Mac OS X Install DVD into the optical drive, or insert the
MacBook Air Software Reinstall Drive
into the USB port.
*Press and hold the "C" key while the computer starts up. The computer
will start up using the Install media.
Alternatively, press and hold the
Option key at startup to select the
volume containing the installer.
*If your are using a wireless mouse, a mouse icon should appear
asking you to turn the mouse on so
that the computer can discover it.
*Select a language, then press the right arrow key.
*Click the Utilities menu, the choose Disk Utility.
*Select a volume to erase (usually called Macintosh HD).
*Click the Erase tab.
*Click Erase... Important: This step will completely erase your hard
drive. If you have installed Microsoft
Windows using Boot Camp, or have
multiple partitions, this procedure
will erase the partition you select.
*A dialog box appears asking if you want to erase the partition: click
Erase.
*After the partition is erased, choose Quit Disk Utility from the Disk
Utility menu.
Part Two: Installing the operating system
*
*When the Mac OS X Snow Leopard Installer screen appears, click
Continue.
*When the license agreement appears, click Agree.
*Select the disk you erased. It should now be highlighted with a green
arrow.
*Click Install. A status bar appears on the bottom of the screen
while Mac OS X installs.
*An Additional Information screen appears, advising you that you
operating system has been installed.
Click Continue.
*An Install Succeeded screen appears. Click Restart.
The OS is now reinstalled, visit this support page to see how to reinstall your applications and configure your user account etc.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7379",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What's the difference between the different "generations" of iPod touches? I've been looking at buying a used ipod touch from craiglist but I'm confused as to what's what. The adds all say things like "2nd generation 8gb" or "3rd generation 16gb" and I'm not sure what the difference is.
A: The short answer is processing speed, screen resolution and memory. The newer ones are obviously faster, and the lastest generation (4g) includes both front and back cameras for shooting video and video calling.
For a full list of the differences check out this wikipedia page.
A: The long answer:
1st and 2nd have 128MB RAM while 3rd and 4th have 256.
3rd and 4th also come in 64GB versions as well as 32GB. The 4th added back an 8GB model.
2nd added Bluetooth (Only in iPhone OS 3.0)
3rd added voice control.
4th also has a Retina Display. Though not the same quality as the iPhone 4. Still it's nice and high-resolution. (It's an LCD, not an IPS for price reasons.)
And the 4th has two cameras as well. Still not as nice as the iPhone ones.
Processor is as follows: 412MHz, 533MHz, 600MHz ARM processors in first three versions. (Underclocked speed)
4th generation replaced the processor with an Apple-made 1GHz A4 processor underclocked to 800MHz.
4th also added a microphone built-in and a 3-axis Gyroscope.
The 5th generation will be released in September. This is 99.9% guaranteed. Most likely with some features from the to-be-announced iPhone 5. (iPods are always September every year. It's one of the only predictable things about Apple. iPhones are in June or July when WWDC takes place, but can change without notice.)
I could keep going but then I'm just into the useless techy stuff like GPU and weight.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7383",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: I rename a app folder on the iPhone 3GS using iTunes 10.1 on Mac; then sync causes it to revert I run iTunes on the Mac MBP (Snow Leopard). I have a folder of apps called New Folder. I click on it to open it, rename it, then close it. It shows the new name. But then after sync it changes back to New Folder.
I do wonder if it is some name conflict. The new name was sushi, and there are sushi apps. But what is weird is it does show up with the new name until I press sync.
EDIT 2/20/11: It isn't a name conflict; I have seen this at other times. Also it shows all the apps in alphabetical order, it appears.
A: You should just edit the folder name on the iPhone itself. Just tap and hold the folder until it wiggles then tap it again to open it, and tap the name to edit it. Unfortunately iTunes often has lots of unknown trouble syncing with iOS devices, much to my own dismay.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7387",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: MacBook Pro (6,2 - Mid 2010) Crashes During Graphics Acceleration Ever since upgrading to 10.6.5 my MacBook pro seems to crash when graphic acceleration. The screen will go black and if audio is playing it will start to skip like a broken record.
This occurs when using the following apps:
*
*Transmit
*Sparrow Mail
*Pixelmator
and this css3 demo:
*
*http://lab.simurai.com/ui/zen-player/
Anyone else experiencing similar issues?
Hardware is stock and diagnostics are reporting everything is ok.
A: It sounds like a problem happening when the computer switches to the high-performance (discrete) chip–something in that transition is failing. Open Console from the Utilities folder, and find kernel.log. See if there are any interesting lines at the time the crash happens. Probably a few lines with "NVDA" in them.
If you open System Preferences and then Energy Saver, you can adjust the graphics mode - try setting it to high-performance (discrete) all the time. Either the system will freeze right then, or you can attempt the same tests. If you still see trouble, it's time to talk to Apple.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7389",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I control the music player on my iPhone from a PC? Is there any app (or otherwise) that allows me to select audio tracks to play, or even just skip to the next track on my iPhone 4 via a PC connected to the iPhone by USB?
A: Bowtie should solve your problem. It's a free desktop app that talks to a .99 cent app that you download on the iPhone:
Bowtie
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7395",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Install Boot Camp gone bad -- installed windows on a wrong drive I tried to install Boot Camp to my iMac and I installed windows to the wrong drive. Instead of Boot Camp partition, I installed it to OS X :( So now I cannot repair the drive using disk utility because i grayed out. The drive is now called "disk0". I tried to reinstall OS X using the Mac OS X install disk but it cannot see the drive. the drive is not even on the list. How can I get it back, PLEASE HELP!!!
FWIW when I boot up my computer without the mac osx install DVD, it says "no bootable device -- insert boot disk and press any key". So it's obvious that the mac partition is overwritten by windows (read first post). Here is the description info of the main drive and the partition display from bottom of page when i select them from disk utility.
298.1 GB hitachi HDT725032vla360
Disk description: Hitachi HDT7250...
Connection bus: serial ATA 2
Connection type: internal
Total capacity: 298.1 GB
Write status: read only
S.M.A.R.T status: verified
Partition map scheme: unformatted
Disk0 (where it used to be Macintosh HD)
Mount point: /volumes/untitled
Format: windows NT file system (NTFS)
Owners enabled: No
Number of folders: 0
Capacity: 298.1 GB
Available: 127 GB
Used: 489.4 MB
Bumber of files: 3232
A: As already stated by Mike, when you use Disk Utility from the install DVD, the "erase" and "delete" partition options should not going to be grayed out.
Look at the following image. Notice the important information, you have to select your DRIVE and not the partition. Then you have to select "Partition" in the tabs and finally click the little "minus" sign (which is Grayed out in the image).
Now when you boot with your Install DVD, you can open Disk Utility from the Menu during the initial stage of the install, when you're still being "welcomed" to OS X's install.
Try it from there and DiskUtility will launch (it will take a few seconds, since the DVD drive is not as fast as a Hard Drive) and try to remove the partition from there. Remember to "Apply" the changes.
A: Boot the install disk and run Disk Utility from that. You can then use it to repartition the drive, and reinstall OS X into a new partition.
A: If you have access to another computer, get an Ubuntu livecd and use gparted - I've found that gparted can be successful at formatting discs that other programs won't recognize.
*
*Ubuntu livecd
*gparted tutorial
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7399",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How do I remove the MobileMe icon in the menu bar? If I try to go to the settings in System Prefs > MobileMe, it asks for a username and password. Is there any way to remove the menu bar icon without needing to either login or create a MobileMe account?
A: If you mean this icon:
You must run iSync (by QuickSilver or Spotlight خق go into /Applications and double-click iSync) then uncheck "Show status in menu bar".
A: You can remove menu icons by dragging them out of the menubar while holding the ⌘-key.
This behavior does not work with icons from third party applications (e.g. Dropbox, Growl...).
A: Apart from dragging it out as already mentioned, MobileMe specifically can also be set to show via the MobileMe System Preferences. Just untick the box stating Show MobileMe Sync Status in menu bar. This obviously only works if you have a MobileMe account.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7401",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Library specific iTunes preferences? I would like to have two iTunes libraries with one being automatically organized and the other letting me choose where to store the files. When I create a second library it seems to share the same preferences as the first (the settings are actually iTunes preferences). Is it possible to have separate settings for my libraries?
A: iTunes preferences are stored in
~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.iTunes.plist
I presume you access your two libraries by launching iTunes while holding down the Opt key.
An alternate method to launch iTunes and swap out pref files at the same time would be to make an Automator or AppleScript app that switches pref files, and makes a link from ~/Music/iTunes to one of the libraries, then launches iTunes for you.
A: Here is an example of an Apple Script someone wrote to solve a similar problem, be sure to read their situation and change the script for your needs:
http://forums.macnn.com/82/applications/358119/itunes-applescript-question/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7405",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I use Gmail to sync my calendar between Mac OS X and Android? I've recently bought an HTC Desire and I'd like to sync my calendar from my MacBook Pro (Os X 10.6.6) with the calendar from the phone. I suppose it would be easiest to do it over Gmail, but I'm not sure how. I checked their site, and there is a simple tutorial how to do it if you want Gmail calendar events in iCal, but I need the opposite. How to do that?
A: The approach I took was to sync my phone with the gmail calendar and then sync iCal with google calendar. I don't sync directly between phone and mac.
I can add events on all three now and it will sync between all of them.
edit: I've been asked to post up a screengrab, but it honestly isn't needed. I've seen the guides on setting up CalDav but it's honestly not required, iCal has a really simply method to add an account which makes it extremely simple to do.
*
*Launch iCal
*Go to File -> Preferences
*Delete any accounts you think you might have set up incorrectly
*Add an account with the + button
*Leave the account type as Automatic
*Enter your google email address
*Enter your google password
That is IT! I have a personal and work calendar on google calendar and it brought both in.
A: You are correct in thinking that the Google Calendar is the best way to go.
To sync between Google and your Mac you can set up the Google calendar as a CalDav, Google have a comprehensive guide for this. If you already have everything in iCal you may have to export them into the Google calendar web interface, this is just a case of selecting "Export" in iCal and "Import" in Google calendar. FWIW After using this hybrid approach for a while I've actually started using the Google calendar web interface rather than iCal as it is a bit more flexible and gives more are to work with.
I'm not too hot on how to set stuff up on Android, but I thought everything was linked to your Google account anyway? (Google do have a similar guide for Android, but I've not used it).
A: If you're syncing Google Calendar to a Mac, be sure to checkout BusyCal.
(It's accurately referred to as "iCal Pro" and will sync to Google Calendars, MobileMe, or generic WebDAV calendars.)
There's a demo on their website.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7410",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I map buttons on my PS3 controller to keystrokes on my Mac? I purchased a PlayStation 3 controller for use with my Mac. It's paired via Bluetooth. It works great in emulators such as Snes9x, but I'd like to use it for other things as well. Is there any software that will allow me to map buttons on the controller to keystrokes?
I've tried USB Overdrive and as far as I can tell, it doesn't do what I want.
I'm on Mac OS X 10.6.6.
A: Yeah there's an application called "ControllerMate" that you can get here http://www.orderedbytes.com/controllermate/ . You pair the controller to the mac with USB (I think Bluetooth will work too but you might have to look up special instructions), then use this app to bind the controller functions to keys and mouse movements. It works really well. I used to use it to play things like Portal because they don't natively support the PS3 controller.
A: Enjoy allows to map buttons to keystrokes.
Here is the mapping I determined for my PS3 controller (connected via Bluetooth):
The OSX mapping is used in games that directly support controllers, as Dustforce - where the SELECT button is mapped as pad0_btn3; there you would, of course, not use Enjoy.
Enjoy is a free program for Mac OS X 10.5+, focused on simplicity.
+------------------+---------------+-------------+
| button | Enjoy mapping | OSX mapping |
+------------------+---------------+-------------+
| left | 8 | 7 |
| up | 5 | 4 |
| right | 6 | 5 |
| down | 7 | 6 |
| L1 | 11 | 10 |
| L2 | 9 | 8 |
| R1 | 12 | 11 |
| R2 | 10 | 9 |
| select | 1 | 0 |
| start | 4 | 3 |
| PS-btn | 17 | 16 |
| L3(left analog) | 2 | 1 |
| R3(right analog) | 3 | 2 |
| ◻ square | 16 | 15 |
| △ triangle | 13 | 12 |
| ◯ circle | 14 | 13 |
| X cross | 15 | 14 |
+------------------+---------------+-------------+
A: You could try the procedure described here http://forums.macnn.com/77/gaming/377671/gaming-on-mac-with-ps3-controller/
A: The PS3 remote works with Remote Buddy if you're prepared to pay 20 euros (obviously test it out first though — it has a free trial period)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7419",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How to completely remove Folx on Mac OS X? I installed Folx download manager on my MacBook Pro. I didn't like it, so I removed it from the Applications folder. I also searched for its dependent files in /Library/Preferences, but I found nothing related to Folx.
Now, when I try to download files, it tries to download using Folx—but Folx doesn't work. How can I fix this problem?
A: For prior version than Folx 4
Go Download the Folx.dmg from their website, and open it. In the dmg image, there will be a package file called uninstaller. Run that.
It is only for prior versions than Folx 4, as said by Eltima Software. For Folx 4 or newer, it is mentionned on their website that it is enough to remove Folx.app to permanently remove it.
A: I use 10.8.5 and here how it is to remove folx completely
*
*launch folx
*In menubar - click help>uninstall
*you will get below! window
*select all options
*Uninstall
A: If you use Firefox you should also unistall Folx plugin (Tools->Add-ons->Plugins->Folx Downloader Netscape plug-in -> disable)
A: To remove Folx you are to use its uninstaller.
A: the uninstaller did not work for me at all. I had to remove many pieces from the file system. I think the key was to remove the app from ~user/Library/ScriptingAdditions!
A: Open the Applications folder in Finder, select the app and drag it to Trash (located at the end of Dock). Then choose Finder → Empty Trash. When you empty the trash, the app is permanently removed from your Mac.
A: Download official uninstaller below: (Thanks Gilles for the comment)
Folx - Uninstall Folx
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7423",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Bandwidth shaper or bandwidth controller application for Mac OS X I'm looking for a bandwidth/packet throttle/shaper program with the following features:
*
*Similar to Windows-based Netlimiter.
*GUI based and not terminal or command line.
*Shows list of all applications communicating over network its connections, transfer rates and more.
*Set download or upload transfer rate limits for applications, connections or groups of them.
A: There are multiple ways to do this.
For example, using ipfw, pf, or trickle, or GUI front ends to these, such as:
*
*Speed Limit (not maintained as of 2014)
*Throttled (only 10.4.x - 10.8.x)
*Waterroof (10.7): http://www.hanynet.com/waterroof/
*IceFloor (10.8): http://www.hanynet.com/icefloor/
A: For those on 10.7 or newer, the easiest solution to the bandwidth limiting part of the question is Apple's Network Link Conditioner (NLC), a free utility that was originally included with Xcode. Then Apple got all sandbox-happy, so now it's a separate download from Apple's developer web site, called the Additional Tools for Xcode.
The important points going for NLC are that it's from Apple, it's got a very straightforward UI, and it works. Some of the other suggestions given in other answers fail some or all of these criteria, particularly in failing to work on newer OSes.
As for monitoring per-application bandwidth usage, I recommend iStat Menus.
A: Since there wasn't a clear answer here.... somebody recommended vellum and that got me looking into it. Turns out velum gives you a license too their other product "snail" which is exactly what the post originally asked for.... so skip vellum just buy snail.
https://www.murusfirewall.com/snail/
A: Charles Proxy
Limit the bandwidth and see requests, responses in real time.
Charles Proxy has quite a nice GUI.
A: Waterroof or Noobproof, both free!!
A: take a look at little snitch: http://www.obdev.at/products/littlesnitch/index.html
Little Snitch features real-time network monitoring. It started as a nice GUI for adding per-application access rules and has grown into a bandwidth tool as well. I don't know how to use it to shape bandwidth. It's mostly an all-or-nothing, accept/reject network access monitor.
Still, it will certainly help you find out which processes are spiking your Mac's network activity.
A: In 10.15 and above, try: Vallum
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7426",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "44"
} |
Q: Can I stop mobile Safari from opening my bookmarks whenever I start the app? Whenever I start Safari on my iPhone it insists on bringing up the last bookmarks folder I happened to be in. Is there a way to disable this behaviour and just have it present me with an empty page when I start up the app? I don't use bookmarks and the process of waiting for that bookmark view to show up and then dismissing it is surprisingly time consuming.
This is mobile Safari on iOS 4 running on an iPhone 3GS. The phone has not been jailbroken.
A: As of iOS 5.1 Mobile Safari no longer opens your bookmarks folder when you start it on your iPhone. It shows you the empty browser screen and you have to click on the bookmarks icon to bring up the bookmarks list.
A: There is no way to disable this.
Here is how to reproduce: Close all "Tabs" in Mobile Safari on iPhone. Exit Safari. Open Safari again. It will briefly show a blank window and then it will open the Bookmarks, in whatever Bookmarks folder you last looked at. (Note: Mobile Safari on iPad does not do this. It just opens to a blank page.)
Workaround: Enter the URL "about:blank" in one tab. Open new tabs for your actual browsing then, before exiting Safari, close all but the "about:blank" tab. When you re-enter Safari it will show you the "about:blank" page and not open the Bookmarks folder.
A: Ok, here is another answer, now that I better understand what is going on. Thanks Stephen W. Carson.
You can set a "Home Page" in Mobile Safari, via a tweak available in Cydia. It requires a Jailbroke iPhone, but it is called "Home Page in Safari". You could set "about:blank" as your homepage.
A: Are you talking about the bookmark bar like is on the iPad?
You can turn that off in Settings->Safari->Always show bookmark bar.
http://www.pocketpccentral.net/iphone/news/2010/04/ipad-safari-tip-turn-on-the-bookmark-bar/
A:
Whenever I start Safari on my iPhone it insists on bringing up the ... bookmarks folder
It does this because whenever you stop using Safari you close all tabs. Leave a tab open, even if it is just about:blank or http://google.com
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7427",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: 4G iPod Touch internet speed incredibly slow with B/G WiFi router but fast with N I have a B/G protocol modem/router and when I connect my iPod Touch (4G) to it, the internet access is incredibly slow (0,19 MB/s DOWN // 0,05 MB/s UP). So I've tried to create a new wifi (N) connection through the share menu on my iMac and connecting to it the iPod Touch has the normal speed one would expect.
I've also tried to restore wifi settings and restore from DFU my iPod but nothing changes.
Any idea on how to make my iPod Touch fast with my B/G modem?
Thanks
A: It is quite normal to see a real difference between 802.11b, g and n wireless networks.
The maximum network speed you can reach on this 3 different standards are:
IEEE | max speed | ratio relative
standard | radio | practical | to 802.11b
---------|------------|------------|---------------
802.11b | 11 Mbit/s | 5 Mbit/s | 1
802.11g | 54 Mbit/s | 25 Mbit/s | 5
802.11n | 270 Mbit/s | 120 Mbit/s | 24
On the other hand, 802.11b, g and n use different radio channels.
You may consider these channels as different roads with different speed
limits and different amounts of traffic. Some of these channels may be
free when others may be congested.
Your problem isn't a problem, but rather the radiowave reality.
If you want to see it and even bring it under control,
I advise you to use iStumbler. This is an invaluable tool for wireless network tuning.
A: Could it be that your router's wireless channel or it's neighboring channels are occupied by many other wireless networks?
This is one reason a Wireless connection can experience huge slow down's. This would not be the case on an N-network as it operates in another frequency.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7435",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: AppleTV, iTunes and Multiple Disks I have a 20 iMac and an AppleTV 2 (the black one), and three external drives (2TB, 1.5TB and 1TB) that house all my music, movies and tv shows.
Up until now, I've never needed more than the one drive for everything, but now my 1.5TB drive is almost full and what I'm doing to keep things organized feels like a cludge so I'll just explain what I'm doing and hopefully someone will tell me what I'm doing wrong and how to fix it.
Right now, I'm using the 1.5TB (music, apps and tv shows) and 2TB (movies) for my media. After I've converted, tagged, etc. all my new shows or movies, I change the preferences in iTunes to the drive that contains whatever I'm about to add to the library. For example, if I'm going to add a new movie, I switch the "iTunes Media Folder Location" to the 2TB drive, add the movie, then change the preference back to the 1.5TB drive.
This just seems silly to me, and I know I could create a RAID but I don't want to move all that data around so there has to be a better way to do this.
A: What I would do is:
*
*Have only 1 library
*Make sure that iTunes is configured to keep all your media organized (and point your single iTunes Library to your preferred disk)
*When adding files to your iTunes library hold down Option/Alt to let iTunes know that it shouldn't copy the file to where your library is
This way all your data will be organized by iTunes except for the large files that should belong on your largest external disk in the first place.
Cheers...
A:
I don't want to move all that data around so there has to be a better way to do this
I'm not sure this actually works, but it should. The only solution I can think of is to replace the Movies/Music folders in your "main" iTunes folder with alias folders (or symbolic links) to the corresponding folders on separate hard drives.
You would need to ensure the hard drives were always mounted when using iTunes.
That said, I think the best solution is to get an easily expandable external raid or NAS enclosure like the Drobo or ReadyNAS.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7442",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: To-do app for Mac OS X I want to organize my to do's for programming an iphone app. I found this, and I really like it, but is not native to Mac OS X. Is there any app similar to it?
A: Things (39$) is best to-do application i've ever used. It's a simple application with powerful features.
My favorite feature is synchronizing between mac/ipad/iphone. One disadvantage that it is paid application.
A: iCal that ships with OS X has a ToDo List feature that works well.
You'll need to be more specific about which features of MyTinyToDo you like, if you are wanting better recommendations.
A: I use ToodleDo for all of my To Do lists. It's a website so it is accessible anywhere (I use it as the default page in my browser on my laptop) and they have a native iPhone app that does a great job syncing. It's not Mac-native, but it is very agreeable to Mac users and you can export your lists as iCal calendars if you so choose. You get a lot of functionality for being free, but it does pay to subscribe if you have long-term uses for it.
A: Just an idea, but you could run MyTinyToDo locally in apache and put it in a widget and put it on your dashboard. Or use GeekTool to float it on your desktop.
A: You have a lot of good apps for what you'd like to plan. My suggestions are:
Omnifocus for iPhone (it's one of the most expensive on the market but the features are excellent)
-Todo a simple but convenient Todo app, really similar to the one you mentionned and easy to handle, with a cloud sync service for tasks
2Do the one that I can't live without (no joke!), probably the most complete planner app on iPhone.
Hope this will help you make your mind ;)
A: You have the great wunderlist which is free, provides collaboration and a companion iPhone app (also free). Does what it's made for. Customizable and sexy :)
(No I don't work at 6wunderkinder!)
A: Well if you want "native", Why not simply use Mail? It has a "notes" section and it'll sync w/ any ios device out there... Make a new note & at the top type in "To do" & go for it, doesn't get much more "native" than that.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7446",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: AppleTV and sorting TV Shows I've been wondering how to organize my shows by Show, then season and then episode because I have, for example, 6 entries for Bones (one for each season), 7 for Star Trek TNG, etc. and it just looks like a mess (Imagine if you had all 22 seasons of The Simpsons), is there something else to clean this up?
A: So far the best solution i've found with an ATV2 is just to use playlists. The files themselves are named ShowName.S01e01.ext, then i've sorted each show into a playlist so that I can watch them continuously without going back to the menu between episodes.
A: You can enter in sorting values for files in the Info window. Select a file and click File>Get Info will open the window, just go to the Sortingtab where you will find two columns, the left being the actual value and the right being the "Sort" value. So, for your TV shows, you can enter "Star Trek: TNG 1.1", "Star Trek: TNG 1.2", "Simpsons 1.1", "Simpsons 1.2", and they will all appear in the correct order in the list.
A: THe problem is, that ATV "overrules" the sort field ("Sort Name") entry with it's "Date Added" or air date value. The sorting only has effect as long as the "Date Added" values are the same...
Unfortunately there is no way to change this tag in iTunes and no other sort option in ATV (1st gen) other then Show, Date or Unwatched available...
A: Only the first generation did what you're suggesting. I was very disgruntled to learn that newer (HD) AppleTV incarnations did away with this feature. I have hundreds of TB of shows and it's annoying as hell to scroll through a list of multiple seasons, rather than a list of shows.
Your only real option is to number each episode (ex. 1-100) then select all episodes, "GET INFO" and override the season option. Leave it blank. Then when you click on a THE SIMPSONS you will have one long list of episodes in order. It won't be broken down by season, but at least the list of shows will be cleaner.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7453",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Mac App Store works like trying to open iTunes via browser Greets everyone.
I've updated to 10.6.6 but my Mac App Store doesn't behave well - see screen below:
It seems to be constantly trying to open iTunes for some reason. BTW, I'd logged in iTunes with my Apple ID, but this didn't help.
Any ideas?
A: *
*Go to your home folder. (your user name under places on the left hand side)
*click on Library
*click on Preferences
*delete "ByHost" which is a folder.
*delete "com.apple.appstore.appstore.plist" which is a file.
*delete "com.apple.storeagent.plist" which is also a file.
*restart
*empty trash
*open Mac App Store and it should work.
If you're worried about deleting files then just make a copy somewhere else before you delete them.
From discussions.apple.com
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7459",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Mac App Store updates keep repeating; won't clear My Mac App Store updates keep repeating. They won't clear. The update is clearly installed. I know this because the new features in the changelogs are visible in my apps when I open them. The update process itself also works smoothly; meaning the progress bar gradually fills for each item in the update list and displays no errors. The badges will clear, but whenever I go and click on Updates again the badges and all previous updates return. It's very annoying. How do I fix this?
A: LMAO, I finally figured out the problem! I had completely reinstalled Snow Leopard from scratch and used SuperDuper to make a backup clone of my hard drive beforehand (which I had always been doing for backup). Then before putting anything else on, I had visited the Mac App Store to reinstall some software when I noticed it said I had all my apps already installed. It didn't take long to figure out that the Mac App Store reads any cloned hard drives you have attached and interprets them as installed apps as well. This would certainly explain why it thought I still had the older versions still installed. Huge bug.
A: Try uninstalling and reinstalling the app from the AppStore.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7473",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Application to Monitor Battery Usage by Application I want to know what's draining my iPhone battery. Is there an application that can monitor / estimate battery usage by application?
A: This is not feasibly possible or even reasonable. The battery is just used. The system can track the current battery status and current usage, but it is not possible to track where exactly the power goes. It just all goes into the circuitry, the CPU, the Display, all things that the application uses. No application uses more battery than another unless it relies upon the hardware to a different extent, such as more complex apps will require more battery power because they need more CPU threads, and apps that can locate you will take even more because they need to power up the GPS. Using this logic, you can estimate which of your apps use the most battery.
On the other hand, you can try to measure battery usage manually. You can close all other apps from backgrounding and keep the phone in airplane mode with battery % display on. Then open an app and track how long it takes to drop by 10% from 100%. Then charge the phone again and do it all over for another app. The most important thing is to ensure the phone is operated at a constant temperature under 50 Degrees F and under completely constant runtime variables. This is the only way.
If you built the application, on the other hand, you can use a utility called Instruments to monitor the status of various aspects of the iOS device to determine the approximate battery drain more efficiently. This will get the status for the entire device, however, as, like I said, it's impossible to tell on an app-to-app basis. Instruments also relies upon the iPhone being tethered to the computer, which means it won't be running down the battery anyway, so Instruments only gives power consumption information.
A: The Cydia app "App Stat" will show you a rough approximation -- it shows a list of your apps, ranked by # of times each has been started, and also how long each has run.
This doesn't directly correlate to power consumption, but it might be just as relevant for you to see app usage?
A: From iOS 7 this information is shown in Settings > General > Usage > Battery Usage.
A: Check out this article if you are a user:
http://9to5mac.com/2014/09/27/ios-8-track-battery-usage/
And this article if you have experience with programming:
https://developer.apple.com/library/ios/documentation/DeveloperTools/Conceptual/InstrumentsUserGuide/MeasuringEnergyImpact.html
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7481",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why should I jailbreak my AppleTV 2G? Why should I jailbreak my AppleTV 2G? I'm confused on what extra functionality it brings. I understand you can browse the full internet with something like a typical web browser, but that doesn't interest me at all. What else is there?
A: Other options are installing XBMC or Plex, and having much more control over your Apple TV - you can then play any media format, more easily access data from your other computers, access the full internet (as you pointed out) and find lots of different plugins for a range of different things.
If you are interested, you can check out this article on Lifehacker about jailbreaking and installing XBMC - it's really a very straightforward process.
If you'd like to have a play around, you can also download XBMX and Plex for your Mac or PC to see what they are all about. Good luck.
A: Jailbreaking your ATV2, will open up the hardware to utilize software that is available to enhance your usage.
Personally I jailbroke my AppleTV2 because I wanted to be able to watch shows / movies from my home server. Shows / Movies that were NOT in apple approved format, nor were they shows that I wanted to convert and put into iTunes.
XBMC is great in that regard, as you automatically get access to a TON of options that you don't get with the standard ATV2 iOS software. Plugins for things like HULU Plus, Amazon Prime, Vimeo, etc.
The jailbreak (untethered) is very simple to do, and the tools available make the whole process painless and easy. Just google for details and follow the steps.
Another approach that you might not think of is for Canadians, who wish to view American programming (due to limitations and Geo locking). You could easily with a jailbroken TV setup a proxy that would allow someone in Canada to then view US programming without being GEO locked from places like HULU, or AMAZON PRIME, etc;
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7484",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Why do the keyboard brightness keys sometimes stop working? Occasionally after turning my keyboard brightness all the way down to 0 manually (Which I do sometimes at night if I need to leave the machine running while it processes something) it won't allow me to turn it back on.
It gives me this symbol when I try. It usually lasts until I reboot. But is not easy to reproduce as it does not always happen.
Something tells me this is unanswerable, but I was hoping someone else might have discovered this problem too.
2010 2.4GHz MacBook Pro.
A: This is actually quite a clever little battery saver Apple have built into the MacBook. There is an ambient light sensor next to the iSight camera on the unibody models or on both sides of the keyboard, under the speaker holes, on older models. If the MacBook determines that the light in the room/outside is too bright for the keyboard backlight to be of any use, it will turn the backlighting off. Then you can see that overlay to indicate that you don't have control of the brightness because the macbook has disabled it.
You can test this by putting the keyboard brightness up to full brightness and then shining a light/torch at the area around the iSight camera (or speaker holes) and you'll see that you cannot control the keyboard brightness while the light is shining.
Once you turn the light off, the keyboard brightness controls will function again.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7486",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can I plug two external monitors in to a MacBook Pro? I'd like to use two external monitors for some excels, coding, email, not games or video content.
Can someone please explain how I can go about using two external monitors with my MacBook Pro, and realistically, how good will the performance be of the 2nd external monitor?
A: In order to attach two or three monitors, you could use a third party device like Matrox GXM (Graphics eXpansion Modules) - you can connect two or three monitors from your Display Port, however, there are some limitations (like the OS does not know natively that there are two or three monitors connected and treats it like one). The price is about $350 for the Tripplehead and around $220 for the Dualhead one.
Here is the GXM homepage.
A: If you don't yet have the monitors, the cheapest solution is to get a USB monitor (for example, Display Link). Performance is fine for your uses. Display Link sells a monitor with HD (1920x1080) resolution.
If you have both monitors already, and they are VGA or DVI, then you can buy adapters for them. Performance should improve somewhat.
A: If you have an iPhone or iPad, they can become a second monitor with Air Display.
A: I highly recommend Plugable's USB 2.0 to VGA/DVI/HDMI Adapter. It will do up to 2048×1152 or 1920×1200. I use it at work every day, along with a second monitor plugged right into the display port. It uses DisplayLink's chip and drivers, and works well on Snow Leopard and Lion.
It's a bit slower to update than the MacBook's internal monitor or the monitor plugged directly into the display port, but as long as I'm not trying to watch video on it it's great.
A: I've heard good things about the OWC USB to DVI/HDMI/VGA Display Adapter.
Plug it in with USB, and it drives a monitor connected with DVI, HDMI, or VGA up to 1600x1200 pixels (full HD is 1920x1080).
A: You can now do this with the Thunderbolt equipped MacBook Pros that also have discrete graphic cards. Both displays need to be the new Thunderbolt displays.
I use a DisplayLink USB adapter on my MacBook Pro 13, which works well for everything except fullscreen video and 3D.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7488",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: How can I tell if my MacBook's iSight has a hardware problem? I've got a 2006 13" MacBook (Core Duo; the first ones they produced with an Intel chipset), and the built-in webcam doesn't seem to work anymore.
Here's what my System Profiler shows in the USB tab:
Which makes me believe there's a hardware problem, or a more fundamental problem with my OS (Snow Leopard 10.6.6). Before I try reinstalling the OS, are there any ways I can test the functionality of the hardware? I'm willing to open up the computer if needed.
Note: I've already tried resetting the PMU, along with the other steps on Apple's "How to Troubleshoot iSight" page.
A: If System Profilier isn't showing it up under USB then the iSight has been physically damaged beyond repair (not accepting power) or has been somehow disconnected from the Bus. System Profiler always displays connected devices, even if they're corrupted or non-functioning.
Take your Mac to the Apple Store and they will tell you what it will take to fix it. The most likely scenario is that it will be a free repair, and they'll clean up your computer while they're at it :)
If you can't get to an Apple Store call 1-800-MY-APPLE and ask them about your options.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
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Q: Which Mac to develop iPhone apps? I'm a developer working with Windows. I have some cutomers who are interested in iPhone Apps, so I'm looking for a Mac right now. The problem is, that I have no clue at all about what to buy.
I don't want to use the Mac as my primary machine, I just want do to the coding on it. So it doesn't need to be that powerful I guess. So what would you recommend? New or used ...
Does the Mac work with my USB Keyboard/Mouse? Does it work with my monitor with DVI port? Do I need adapters or completely new Hardware?
I read somewhere that I need an Intel CPU. Is this true?
A: Any current mac would work just fine. Just pick the form factor you like best at the price you are willing to pay.
I use a mac mini for iphone development and it works fine with all my standard peripherals (monitor, keyboard & mouse). I had to get an adapter for the monitor.
A: I completely disagree with all Mac Mini suggestions.
Get a macbook. Used or new, depends on what you prefer. Or better yet - get the Air which is same price than the macbook.
Today a new mini is U$300 cheaper than both the notebooks (which goes for U$999) but you don't have to deal with keyboards, mouses and above all lack of battery. Any computer without a nobreak is a break dealer for developing, from my point of view. Adding all that plus the space used, power consumption and convenience we can easily sum up to macbook being a lot more worth it. Plus, with the air, the SSD makes it worth even a lot more.
The mini is good as a home server or any kind of dedicated machine. Never as a desktop nor to have frequent user input - even if it can be set up for such just like any messy PC.
Anyway, I'm a long time PC user, I never dropped windows or PC, but if you're going to develop to mac, please, go all in. Learn to enjoy the apple way, to hate it as well, and make that software really a Mac OS one, not a ported piece that doesn't fit in. There are many, many nuances to a true software made for mac that can make the difference for your software being successful on the apple market.
You can even use bootcamp to install windows on it if you wish, but like everyone else said, as a developer you are going to fall in love for the mac OS and the amazing hardware (which won't happen if you go Mini).
A: Honestly any Mac on the market right now (that is currently being sold by Apple) will do you just fine. Choose based on price, honestly. I would not, however, recommend a Macbook Air if you're not going to be using it like a regular computer. Your best option would probably be a Mac Mini, which has an Intel CPU and plenty of speed and compatibility for what you're trying to do. They are a lot cheaper than alternative Macs, and you can use them with your preexisting monitor/mouse/keyboard setup. This is really nice if you buy one of those little switcher things that allows you to use a single monitor/mouse/keyboard setup with two or more computers. The Mac Mini will work with a DVI port, and if the model you purchase doesn't support DVI on the box, Apple sells a $20 adapter that'll get you what you need cheaply.
In summary, Mac Mini is the way to go, imho. The next best option is an iMac, which you might like better (it has a more "Mac" experience which I guarantee you'll fall in love with).
A: Agree with the Mac Mini suggestions but just to let you know, if you want a laptop, there'll be no problems either. I have successfully developed 4 apps on a 2009 white Macbook with no issues (I did max out the memory to 4Gig and replace the 120Gb hard drive with a 500Gb one though.)
A: The current low level Mac Mini with an upgrade to 4GB memory is probably the best bang for your buck. That's what I have except with 8GB; got my memory from Amazon for $130, cheaper than Apple memory. It's a very capable machine. If you use a lot of programs simultaneously, the standard 2GB is kinda cramped, but 4GB would do fine; it just seemed like a good deal for 8GB and I use more than your average number of apps simultaneously and lots of Safari tabs.
The new MacMini is much nicer than the 2009's. I know this because I had one before this one; with 2GB of course :).
You're gonna love OS X by the way. Don't be surprised if you ditch Windows in a year.
About your specific questions:
*
*Any current Mac has an Intel CPU. Apple switched from PowerPC back in 2006 and yes you need one, but you don't want a computer that old anyway!
*Just about any keyboard or mouse will work fine with OS X. If you are using some kind of fancy mouse or keyboard, then you'll probably will need some third party software to get all those custom parts working, but all the standard parts will work; left click, right click, scroll wheel, cursor control etc. There is a chance however that there is no OS X equivalent of the third party software you may be using.
*Finally, Macs work with standard monitors and even regular modern TV's with DVI, VGA, HDMI inputs (virtually all of them do). The most you'll ever need is a common adapter found at Best Buy, Apple Store etc.
A: I would go wit the Mac Mini first and hook up my keyboard and monitor to that and would use Remote Desktop to connect to my Windows PC.
A: I think for practical reasons you want to use a Mac that has a display large enough to display the entire iPhone4 (or iPad) simulator. It is annoying when you have to move the simulator window up and down on the display to see what's there.
You also need a USB port to sync between a real iPhone or iPad and the development machine.
Any of the machines that Apple sells will run the developer tools (Xcode) admirably, but do a little homework to see how many pixels you need to display the simulator (and the other tools) comfortably. Most of the developers I know use multiple displays, and so tend to use machines that allow you to hook up a second or even a third display. I am using a 4 year-old MacBook Pro 17".
A: I just started iOS development and bought a Mac Mini, it's actually pretty powerful for such a small machine. I did upgrade to 4 gigs of ram though.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7495",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "16"
} |
Q: Oil seeping from mbp keys? I have a pretty recent macbook pro 15in, aluminum unibody, probably not yet one year old.
It mainly gets used in clamshell mode connected to an external monitor. I've noticed frequently now when I take it out for use as a proper laptop, the left side Option and Command keys have an oily substance seeping out of them, with a corresponding spot on the screen where it touches those keys when closed.
Any ideas on what's causing this?
A: Sounds like oil from your hands to be honest
A: As far as I know, the only places on a MacBook Pro that have any liquid in them are the LCD and the battery. In either case, it's not pleasant stuff, and definitely shouldn't be leaving it's respective container.
If it's only a year old, take it to the Apple store for service. But first, wash your hands.
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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Q: My iPhone no longer mounts in Windows. Tries to install "MTP USB Device" .. which fails When I plug my iPhone 4 into my Windows 7 Ultimate laptop, it syncs just fine with iTunes, but it no longer mounts on the desktop for me to transfer pictures and videos.
When I plug it in, Windows attempts to install a driver named "MTP USB Device" and then fails.
I've tried a number of things, the most drastic being:
*
*Uninstall iTunes
*Uninstall MTP USB Device from Device Manager
*Restart
*Install the latest iTunes
*Restart
*Run iTunes
*Plug in the Phone
When I did that, Windows claimed it was installing a driver named "iPhone" (yippee!) but then it switched to "MTP USB Device" and failed again.
I've searched other forums and found strange and bizarre ideas that include exploding the iTunes MSI so I can get the Apple USB Device driver -- but that driver is installed and works just fine.
A: In the mist of giving you an extra idea, and to be frank I have no idea what your problem might be, let me share what I'd do to find the cause and -eventually- fix it.
You seem to have done your Windows homework well, yet results haven't been what you expected. Something I remember doing with Windows when things didn't work (in the Windows95 era this was very common!) was rebooting in Safe Mode and see if anything looked unfamiliar.
In any case, if you still can't manage to make Windows work, before anything else, it would be interesting to make sure that the problem is not in the iPhone itself (probably nothing that an iPhone restore wouldn't fix if that's the case).
First rule of diagnosing a problem: try it on another system. The result of this simple test is going to rule out 50% of the possibilities.
If it works, the problem is in your Windows machine and you might get better luck at Super User (since our userbase here has less Windows experience, tho we have a few geeks around).
If it doesn't work, then the problem is not your Windows (stop removing stuff or it will go coo-coo!).
In that case, you might want to perform a full Restore of your iPhone. I am not familiar with Windows+iPhone combo, but don't you have to Check some preference in iTunes for that "mounts on the desktop for me to transfer pictures and videos" thing to happen? I think it was called "Enable Disk's use" on iPods, but I haven't seen that option in iPhones, but then again, Maybe on Windows this is common. Forgive my ignorance in the subject.
Anyway, just make sure your iPhone mounts on another computer's desktop (with Windows) before destroying your own Windows. For what is worth, I'm not aware of any iPhone mounting on a Mac's desktop, this has got to be a Windows thing, and this is why Super User may be better suited.
A: Folks,
I had this problem with my PC (windows 7, 64-bit) and my iPad. After messing with it for a long time, I finally found the answer (bad USB driver). The following two step process should help resolve these kinds of problems more quickly.
The first step is to verify that the iPad (or iPhone) is really connected to your computer. This can be (really) checked using a program called USBDeview. You can get this (very small) program from download.cnet.com/USBDeview/3000-2094_4-10614190.html or www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html. Don't worry, it's not Spyware or Malware.
Just run the program and sort on the 'Connected' column. If your iPad or iPhone doesn't show up as Yes (under 'Connected') then your iDevice is not properly connected to your computer. Could be a cable problem. Could be an iDevice problem. Could be a USB hub problem. Note that your iDevice might be listed as what it is (iPad or iPhone) or it might be listed as 'Apple Mobile Device USB Driver' in the 'Description' column.
Apple has a number of ideas to resolve this sort of basic connectivity issue, including switching USB ports, resetting your iDevice, rebooting your iDevice, rebooting your computer, etc. You will need to try them until your iDevice shows up in USBDeview as 'Yes' under Connected.
If you iDevice shows up as 'Yes' under connected, it should also be visible in the Device Manager (found in the Windows 7 Control Panel under Hardware and Sound). You might find it under Portable Devices or it might be under Universal Serial Bus controllers.
The iDevice may or may not show up in the Windows Explorer. On some machines it does, on others it does not. Why is not clear.
If the Idevice is properly known to Windows and iTunes can't see it, then any number of other things could be wrong. Apple has a list. See the very useful page over at http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1538. Testing shows that the Apple Mobile Device service must be running. Check this using Task Manager (started by right clicking the taskbar). Note that the iPod service and the iphlpsvc service must also be running. These services have different names under the Processes table versus the Services tab of Task Manager.
AppleMobileDeviceService.exe - Apple Mobile Device
iPodService.exe - iPod Service
ItunesHelper.exe - iphlpsvc
Step 4 of http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1538 checks if the Apple Mobile Device USB is installed. This is essential and a common source of problems. In at least some cases, Windows will install the 'MTP USB' driver. Indeed, Windows will reinstall this driver if you uninstall it. The MTP USB driver is essentially a Windows bug (possibly caused by Microsoft). You MUST replace the MTP USB driver with the Apple Mobile Device USB Driver. Step 4 explains how to do this. Note that you MUST use the 'Have Disk' approach. Otherwise, Windows will just reinstall the invalid MTP driver.
The Apple doc indicates that you can find the correct driver at C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\Drivers. Perhaps this is correct on some systems. You may find the correct driver in C:\Program Files\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\Drivers.
iTunes could make this a lot easier by checking if the iDevice is known to Windows (what USBDevier does) and if the Apple Mobile Device USB driver is properly installed for the iDevice. Sadly it doesn't perform either check. Note that iTunes does if some of the related services (see above) are actually running.
A: I had the same problem and this sorted it out permanently
*
*Click the windows button (start) – in the box where it says search programs and files type “run”
*Under programs at the top of your start menu, it should now show Run, click on this.
*In the dialog box of the run program type “regedit” and click ok,when windows prompts do you want to allow the program to make changes click on YES
*The registory editor window will now open, before doing any more backup the current registry to a location you chose by clicking on file>export- name the file and click save
*In the left hand split of the registory edit window browse for the following file location
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE / SYSTEM / CurrentControlSet / Control / Class
*On the left side, search for the entry {EEC5AD98-8080-425F-922A-DABF3DE3F69A} and click on it (it will be close to the bottom of the file list in the class folder)
*On the right side, you will find a key which begins with “Upper…” – delete it!
*Now unplug your iPhone
*Restart your computer
*Plug in your iPhone and hopefully find it mounted as a drive again!
*Double click my computer, double click iphone, double click internal storage and double click DCIM, you can now select your pictures and copy/paste or drag to the desired location.
A: I had pretty much the same issue, and nothing worked for me. But when I disabled the MTP USB in Device Manager, I was able to connect my iPhone to my PC again.
A: Two things:
First, Microsoft's Answers recommends not just uninstalling your iPhone drivers, but all USB drivers.
I have heard rumors of laptop webcam drivers interfering with the iPhone's camera drivers before, and there is mention of it on iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch: Device not recognized in iTunes for Windows, though this specific problem is a less serious incarnation of the entire device not showing up.
Secondly, have you tried an alternate USB port?
Lastly, if you're going to restore your device, make sure to follow This article.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7506",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: iPhone 2G has "NO SERVICE" after restore from possibly corrupt backup I'm having a hell of an issue with my iPhone 2G.
A couple of days ago, I noticed my phone was behaving strangely and appeared to be 'half-synched'. I tried restarting it then did a restore to my last backup using iTunes. To my dismay, I stopped getting any cell service after this; just no bars or "NO CARRIER" instead of data or voice service (everything else worked fine). I called AT&T to report the issue and they were essentially no help and determined it to be a hardware failure. I tried resetting the network data, resetting to factory settings, doing a restore to a different backup but to no avail. The only thing that worked was when I switched the sim card to another spare iPhone I had.
OK, so now I had my old iPhone working with the sim card so I assumed it was a crazy hardware failure. I tried to restore to the more recent backup (the same one that 'broke' the first phone) and alas, my spare phone also has this problem now! I have tried restoring from an older backup but I still can't get any service; the damage appears to be permanent!
By the way, all my bills are paid, I am in an area with good cell reception, etc.
It sounds like this post covers the same or a similar issue.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Is there some way I can do an even lower-level reset than the iTunes restore? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm hoping to document the problem well here so that anyone else with a similar problem can hopefully find a solution.
*
*iPhone OS 3.1.3 - no jailbreaks or any other hacks
*Mac OSX 10.6.6
*iTunes 10.1.1
*Firmware 04.05.04_G
A: Given that you have already tried to set the phone in Recovery Mode and DFU to no avail, there isn't much else you can do on a device with only two buttons and a USB port :)
As already suggested, your best bet is to take it to an Apple Store for inspection. Your phone is not Jailbroken or hacked in any way, so AT&T should either replace it or have it fixed.
My best bet is that during the restore, the baseband got corrupted and now the phone cannot be properly recognized by iTunes.
The Before Disclaimer: I'm sure that since you're a loyal AT&T customer you may want to have them fix your phone, but that'd be in a perfect world.
Disclaimer #1: The following procedure may be "illegal" or "not approved" in certain areas, countries, etc. and it may be against your Terms of Services, morale, etc.
Disclaimer #2: Although I recently did these exact steps in my old iPhone 2G, I live in Europe and you know how we Europeans like to drink tea and laugh at certain things of the American culture and behavior, therefore I do not suggest you do this if you are unsure.
Disclaimer #3: I've seen phones get bricked (A.k.a rendered useless) after using these steps. I can confirm that I did this myself two weeks ago, downloading the exact same files that I've liked here and it worked like a "charm", but "your mileage may vary".
As with any other "gray" procedure, use at your own Risk.
Enough chit-chat…
If -after contacting Apple- you find yourself in a "you don't have warranty we're sorry, you need to pay for a new phone" situation, then you can try to save the phone by using a Jailbreak method.
My old iPhone 2G crashed two weeks ago and I had to do exactly this. These are the steps I performed:
For an iPhone 2G, your "best" and only option is to use the old pwnagetool 3.1.5 (latest for that model), which you can download from the "official" Website (Torrent file). It's an app called Pwnagetool. Do not download from other sources, you never know.
You will also need an old baseband, more specifically 3.9, which you can download from here. It's a file called bl39.bin. Do not unzip the .BIN, just leave it like that.
Save all that in a Folder somewhere.
You will also need the official latest iOS for your 2G phone. Which is -as you already know- iOS 3.1.3
You already have that file in your drive if you have been using it before. It should be located in:
~/Library/iTunes/iPhone Software Updates/
The file name should be something like:
iPhone1,1_3.1.3_7E18_Restore.ipsw
Copy that file to the folder where you downloaded the above files.
Now that you have all in place, you're ready to destroy your iPhone forever… so go ahead and launch the Pwnagetool.
Ignore the "you don't have iTunes 8.0" error (because you probably have the super latest 10.x iTunes):
It works nevertheless, so click ok.
At this point, if you have LittleSnitch it will warn you that the App is trying to connect to a place. It's the autoupdater (which doesn't update anyway), you can go ahead and Deny connections, no harm done.
And now you're ready to start. Disconnect you phone, you don't need it yet.
The application provides two methods, as you can see in the toolbar: Simple mode, and Expert mode.
I suggest you try Simple first and then, if it works, you can redo the whole thing with expert and tweak it.
Please note that if it works, by default, the Simple mode (and you have to use Expert to change it) will replace the "Apple" logo by a PineApple, like the one seen in this screenshot:
I won't go into the full detail of the process because it's rather simple, but I will tell you what this tool does and what it doesn't.
Pwnagetool will take the official "ipsw" and modify it to "jailbreak" it. This also allows you to perform a carrier unlock (which -in turn- may fix your carrier problem, which is the idea of all this). It will basically take the official file, modify it, and create a new one with a similar name and the suffix: CustomRestore:
iPhone1,1_3.1.3_7E18_Custom_Restore.ipsw
After you have this, then you have to proceed to "restore your iPhone" the "normal way". The app explains what to do, but the important step is that when you go to iTunes to click the "restore", you press the ⌥ opt and then click the button. This allows you to browse for the ipsw file, instead of iTunes picking the default one.
As you have correctly guessed, you have to find the one named Custom_Restore, which will proceed to jailbreak/unlock your phone, maybe fixing it.
It will take a while, the phone will restart, the phone will restart and the phone will restart. Kinda like that. At some point an app (BootNeuter) will appear and will ask you a few questions. Then it will restart again and I think again.
At some point (if you're patient) iTunes should recognize your phone and ask you if you want to "restore" a backup.
That's your decision at this point, because you mentioned that the backup is what caused the trouble. I'd try a fresh restore and then proceed to manually re-sync.
If, after all this, you phone works, congratulations. If you want to try the expert mode, go ahead, you can always save the ipsw you used in the first place and re-use it to restore the phone at any time. Go ahead, try expert and see the different options (like not replacing the pineapple and restore images, not installing Cydia, etc.).
In any case, you can -after all this- try to restore your phone using the original ipsw from Apple (which you used as a base anyway). That should be AT&T happy.
Sorry for the long post and I wish you good luck with it. I have an iPhone 3GS and a 2G and I love the 2G form factor way way more than any other iPhone.
FINAL COMMENT
As I've repeatedly said in the post, this procedure can permanently damage your phone. I don't know how, because I did it in a dozen of iPhones 2G here when the iPhone was originally launched and no phone ever failed on me, but if you google around, there are stories.
The only reason why I posted all this method is because your phone is old and if AT&T or Apple refuses to fix it, you can (and should) try to save it. My iPhone 2G has better battery life than my 3GS (albeit at a speed cost) and works fantastically. It was a gift from a friend who lives in the USA that came to Europe two months after the iPhone 2G launch and brought it in the original box for me.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7507",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Reason for perpetual dynamic DNS updates? (Crossposted from Serverfault)
I'm using dynamic DNS (the "adult" version from RFC 2136, not à la DynDNS), and for a while now I've been seeing my laptops with MacOS 10.6.x churning out updates about every 10 seconds. And seemingly redundant updates at that, as the IP is more or less stable (consumer broadband). I don't remember seeing that frequency in the (distant...) past.
The lowest time-to-live that MacOS pushes on the entries is 2 minutes, so I have no clue what's going on.
...
Jan 12 13:17:18 lambda named[18683]: info: client 84.208.X.X#48715: updating zone 'dynamic.foldr.org/IN': deleting rrset at 'rCosinus._afpovertcp._tcp.dynamic.foldr.org' SRV
Jan 12 13:17:18 lambda named[18683]: info: client 84.208.X.X#48715: updating zone 'dynamic.foldr.org/IN': adding an RR at 'rCosinus._afpovertcp._tcp.dynamic.foldr.org' SRV
Jan 12 13:17:26 lambda named[18683]: info: client 84.208.X.X#48715: updating zone 'dynamic.foldr.org/IN': deleting rrset at 'rcosinus.dynamic.foldr.org' AAAA
...
Additionally, I can't find out what triggers the updates on the laptop-side. Is this a known problem, and how would I go about debugging it? One of the machines is freshly purchased and installed. The only "major" change was installation of the Miredo client for IPv6/Teredo, but even disabling it didn't make a change (except that AAAA records are no longer published).
A: Hm, must have been something transient: I noticed that the SOA didn't change, and after a zone freeze/thaw, the problem suddenly disappeared. Looks like BIND might have had a hick-up.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7513",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How does Apple AppStore rank search results? I have an iOS application - an alarm clock. I released it a little over a month ago. Initially it was paid, but when I saw there were virtually no purchases (from 0 to 4 a day), I changed it to be free for a period of time. When it become free, in less than 10 days it has been downloaded more than 30,000 times, and more importantly (I think) it moved much higher in the search results when the user searches "alarm" - it reached 20th place in the results. During that time I also received very good reviews in the AppStore. But today I changed it back to paid, and now when I search "alarm" my app is shown at the bottom of the 4TH PAGE. Given that one page contains 120 apps, this is very bad for me and I don't understand why this happened. Can anyone tell me how does AppStore ranks search results and is there a way to move my app higher in the rankings, please? :) Huge thanks!
A: I'd venture to guess and say that the App Store ranking algorithm is a company secret, much like Google's web search rankings. It seems to me that the radical changes in placement you are witnessing are as much the fickleness of App Store customers as anything else.
Correlation isn't causation by any means, but it seems fairly clear by your description of the events that if you want a lot of downloads you will either have to make it free (and perhaps ad-supported?), or your alarm clock app needs to do something so unique amongst the plethora of alarm clock apps that customers will feel compelled to pay for it.
A: The rankings are complicated and take many things into account. It's not publicly disclosed and the rankings are being tweaked over time as Apple learns what customers want (filtering shill reviews from demo codes, weighting reviewers and stars, aging older data out faster, recent sales data seems to be very important.) Also, there has been a see saw of whether a recently updated app, an app with an alternate availability date and the original date of release is sorted to the top. I would expect that to settle down to a mix of all three for a blended ranking.
In a nutshell - focus on making your app the best it can be - rest assured Apple will want to promote heavily the apps that make the most people happy. Don't try to SEO the store but instead make a small core audience very happy and expand from there. Make them so happy they legitimately want to leave stars and reviews. Initially apps got a bump asking for reviews and stars, but it seems lateely to have a negative back lash effect. How do you feel when you are interrupted at exactly the moment you chose to use an app and it hits you with an ask for promotion. Many reviews now express that rather than what is good about the app.
You will hopefully get your moment in the sun and then it will pass. Only the hard work of long term word of mouth will help make an app a long term success.
Do ask for user feedback in the info or settings menu or in an opt-in mailing list from time to time - somewhere your die hard curious users will find and way out of the way of the normal function of your app.
I would follow the blogs of some of the best developers and they write often about when they notice changes and trends in the rankings. There have been purges of junk apps, purges of ones that obviously game the keywords, ones that had shill reviews (nonsense 5 stars for obviously crappy apps).
Here are several blogs worth watching for words of wisdom and astute app store policy commentary:
*
*Craig Hockenberry
*Marco Arment
*Neven Mrgan
*The Omni Group
*James Thompson
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7516",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: What are some alternatives to Quicksilver? I'm an avid fan of QuickSilver, and I had been using it for several years already. But then development of the application seemed to have stagnated for a while, and many bugs (specially with plugins and advanced features) were never fixed. I then moved to QSB, which seemed to be where the efforts were being concentrated in order to produce such an application. But then again, development seems to have stopped and several features I still miss (like AppleScript launching) were never properly implemented.
I'm aware of a few alternatives out there, notably AlfredApp and LaunchBar, but I wanted to ask here for your opinion and recommendations before trying them out.
So my question is, as of today, which would be the best replacement for QuickSilver? Ideally I would like support for the following features:
*
*Launching applications, preference panels and apple scripts.
*Web search, and search within bookmarks of my favorite browser.
*Able to perform actions or operations on files (copy, move, reveal in Finder).
*Custom web searches are a plus. I would love if it could index, e.g., my delicious bookmarks.
*Free. Open-sourced is a plus.
*Some plugin infrastructure.
*A healthy community of developers actively maintaining the application.
*Not too many bugs.
In your answer, please do let me know about the features of your suggested application, and note if there are any missing features from my desired “ wish list”.
A: Despite a period where it looked like the program would languish, Quicksilver is very much alive and being developed in 2013.
I'd propose an alternative to the Quicksilver from 2011 to be Quicksilver now at http://qsapp.com
The open source development is quite active and most of the big problems have been fixed. In fact, it works so well that the developers have finally released the 1.0 version. You can even participate in the development as the code base is hosted on GitHub - Quicksilver.
A: Alfred is the one that meets pretty much all your needs.
*
*Launching applications, preference panels and apple scripts.
*Web search, and search within bookmarks of my favorite browser.
*Able to perform actions or operations on files (copy, move, reveal in Finder). paid version only
*Custom web searches.
*Free.
*Plugin infrastructure.
*A healthy community of developers actively maintaining the application.
*Not too many bugs
A: In my experience, LaunchBar (which I'm using now) has been the best replacement for QuickSilver. Right after the switch (I used QS too), I missed a few things here and there and had to adjust to others. Truth is, Launchbar ends up being a perfect replacement for most tasks. Perhaps not as "open" as quicksilver but very mature and stable.
Alfred (which is newer) is ok and it delivers (been using it for a couple of weeks). It lacks certain things (I didn't have the powerpack). Clearly the power pack brings it to the level of LB.
Pros of LB? It's stable, been working for years and it delivers. Relatively easy to configure and expand (e.g.: to add a search and/or modify the catalog).
Cons of LB? Development is not what you'd call a fast thing. Other than the ocasional bug-fix, the program hasn't really been updated in a few months. No new features in more than a year. Not that it really "needs" more, but… new ideas would be welcomed too.
It's also not free.
Pros of Alfred? It's free for basic stuff, works ok and has a nice community. You can change more things and it's more prone to be configurable in the future.
Some actions are better implemented than LB. Can't recall now an example but I remember smiling at certain details.
Cons of Alfred? If the features you want are not in the free package, you will have to pay. Has less features than LB at the moment and is somewhat slower in certain things.
Some things you cannot do and I believe LB has better "file" management. But it's probably because I'm used to it.
Of course, if you want Free… you don't have much choice.
A: I'm also a fan of Quicksilver, and having tried LB and Alfred, I'd say that Alfred feels more "quicksilver-ish" so it was easier for me to understand.
For whatever it's worth, Quicksilver has been open-sourced, and some work is still being done on it, although it's not as active as it once was. It runs fine under Lion.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7524",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: External sound card I need a good external sound card mainly to record guitars and vocals. What options available? What would you recommend?
A: This is a very "detailed" subject, because different people will list different opinions at what good is.
I have plenty of experience with M-Audio Fast Track Pro and Rig Kontrol.
FastTrack Pro
It works as advertised but, it has some details that I don't like. You have to unplug it (or power it off) every now and then (especially if you slept your computer with the device connected). It has some good things, like Phantom power and stuff like that which will allow you to record more things. It has decent latency and sound quality is ok. If you want to record at high quality, you cannot use more than one input and one output and stuff like that. But for 44/48Khz is ok.
The driver is ok at informing you what's going on, but don't expect pages of information or features.
It really has two inputs that you can use at the same time and quite a few outputs but depending upon the Khz you use, certain options won't be available. Check the specs in their site.
The driver update from Tiger to Leopard and from Leopard to SnowLeopard hasn't been the fastest. It took them a few months (although the old driver worked more or less). There was a beta and it kinda worked but there were some bugs. Their support has been good tho and they eventually fixed it.
I don't really move it, but its durability has been excellent so far. It's not a "Pro" product anyway; ok for small home studios and garage bands, but you'll probably not see one of these in a pro studio.
It has a power input, but I couldn't find who sells the power brick, it's nowhere in M-Audio's page so… you'll have to drive it from the USB port.
I mainly record guitars+voices+basses. Some things are recorded with Condenser Mics (thanks to the Phantom power!).
The controls in the unit are ok, tho the Clipping detection could be more precise.
RIG KONTROLLER
This is for guitars and it does what it says. It has cons tho', the "footpads" are too "hard" and make a noise when you press them, making them look cheap (and they are) and also rendering useless if theres a mic "too close" because you are at risk that the sound of the "click" might be heard.
I brought that with Guitar Rig 3 (later upgraded to 4, recommended). For a guitar/bass is very nice. But it's a very simple unit in terms of features, compared to the Fasttrack.
You don't mention how many types of inputs/outputs you want or desire, but you can probably also evaluate things like Motu.
This is a good guide which I recommend you read (outdated as it is, it still explains certain good points).
A: Apogee Duet or Apogee One
I've been an Apogee user for a while now.
They are excellent sounding, firewire-based interfaces that have rock solid drivers. I can't recall the last time I had to fight with drivers or worry about crashes while I was working. Unprecedented stability IMO really.
The converters on the low-end Apogee gear are pristine sounding. Every bit as good as the Rosetta-level stuff.
They have XLR inputs that can take a mic or line level signal. And switchable 1/4" inputs that can be set to high impedance inputs so you can plug your guitar directly in to the unit.
And the design is modern and integrates nicely in to an Apple environment. Good ergonomics without a lot of clutter.
My only gripes with the Duet, and these are minor are:
*
*The breakout cable ruins some of the elegance. It can be a mess.
*The to-speaker outputs are unbalanced and I get some hum on them. I've been meaning to pick up a third party breakout box that has balanced, isolated speaker outs.
*There's no MIDI in/out on it. That's very, very minor, but it would have been nice to do all my interfacing with one box. I carry an Uno for MIDI interfacing.
Apogee GiO
If you have no need for the microphone inputs of the above products and don't mind a larger, floor based form factor, the GiO is a pretty cool option. Same great converters, but add in DAW controls that you can operate with your feet so you can punch in/out and track without taking your hands off your guitar.
There's no mic preamp on it though, so instrument level signals only.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7531",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to synchronize iPhone with new Mac without losing data? I've upgraded my workplace with a new Macbook, but I've run into several problems. One of these problems is iPhone synchronization.
Previously, I synchronized my iPhone with a PC notebook. Now I want to sync it with my new Mac, but I don't want to lose all my app data or re-upload all the music, videos, etc.
Is there any possibility for me to sync with my Mac and not reinstall apps and re-upload music? I know I can use an iPhone file manager (my iPhone is jailbroken) to search all the saves and then reinstall all the apps and then transfer the saves back to phone, but it'll take too much time. Is there a more elegant way to do it?
A: You can move your iTunes library from your PC to your Mac. As long as the persistent id is the same it won't erase the iPhone.
You could also just edit the Mac iTunes library to have the same persistent id your PC library did.
http://www.iclarified.com/entry/index.php?enid=2137
A: Recently dealt with this problem with my parents upgrading from an iPad 2 to an iPad 3.
The iPad 2 was synced to one laptop, the iPad 3 was destined for another. We synced the iPad 3 to a backup of the iPad 2 and then went to plug it into the new laptop. (NOTE: the new laptop had all files from the old library synced via home share first.) iTunes asked whether to leave it alone or erase the iPad and sync. After playing around and much googling we went ahead and tried hitting erase and sync. When you do this, if the two iTunes libraries have the same iTunes account, it will actually make a full backup of the iOS device BEFORE it "erases and syncs."
Once it was done, all files were there, even each app's files and settings. (Such as PDFs saved in good reader).
This may not have been the case back in 2008 when http://www.iclarified.com/entry/index.php?enid=2137 was posted. But it seems Apple has caught on, and they just need to reword the message box so they don't scare users into thinking they'll lose everything.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "25"
} |
Q: Purchasing an iMac but pay every month I'm not sure about this, but I just want to know if it's possible to purchase a product from the Apple website, but not to pay in full, but pay every month since I cannot fully pay the whole price of a 27" iMac but I can if I pay every month.
Cheers.
EDIT:
Ok, I had a chat with an Apple Expert on the live chat (via the website) in order to pay monthly, you will have to place an order WITH a financial payment which is label in the payment method (second tab on the panel).
After that, confirm your order and you will be redirected to an Apple "Apply Now" which you will place an confirmation for Apple to approve or disapprove, if you are approved you will be sent an application - if you dislike the Terms and Conditions, your order will be canceled.
Cheers guys, hope this will help everyone.
A: Apple offers financing for a lot of their products. Typically you will see a link above the "Select" button for a given product on its page. See the image below from the Mac Mini catalog page...
The financing may not come from Apple directly, but it is an option.
A: It appears that you are in the UK, this financing option is available from Apple, if it is a business purchase you can also lease Apple hardware.
However, depending on how long you want to spread the payments over you can look for an interest free offer on a credit card, usually up to 12 months so you can make a big purchase then have 12 months to pay it off, as long as you make the minimum payment each month you don't pay anything extra.
A: Maybe it is reasonable to look through refurbished products https://tech.trade/ . Their price is not so high, that's why it can become good alternative
A: As far as I know, Apple don't offer any hire purchase or leasing arrangements through the Apple store or website. You will need to find a third party to lend you the money.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7537",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: snow leopard(10.6.5)freezes on startup with bootcamp and windows7 Help! I've installed boot camp and Windows 7 on my black Macbook Santa Rosa (2.4Ghz, 4GB RAM) and have a serious problem where I can no longer boot into OSX.
OSX freezes with the apple logo and timer, but also has an extra progress bar that I have not seen before.
Has anyone else encountered or heard of this problem?
This is the second time that this exact thing has happened (the last time I just reinstalled everything, as I wanted to increase the size of the windows partition anyway), but really don't have the time to go through all of that again.
The first time that this happened, I ran disk utility from the Snow Leopard disk, and attempted to verify permissions and disk but to no avail.
Any help would be most appreciated...
A: Can you start it in Safe Mode?
Method is explained here: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1455
A: did you fix the problem in the end? I just had exactly the same problem.
Been working in windows 7 (64 bit) all day while using MacDrive to access the project files I was working on from the mac partition. Tried to boot back into mac os and had exactly the same problem.
Wasn't sure if it was windows 7 or MacDrive breaking things...
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Figure out which command is bound to a keyboard shortcut in TextMate I have a shortcut key conflict between TextMate and LaunchBar. I use ⌘+⌥+\ to call up LaunchBar's clipboard history. And it works great everywhere except in TextMate, which has this combination bound to some Bundle action.
I'd like to unbind this combination in TextMate so I can get to LaunchBar's clipboard history view when I'm in TextMate and pull things off the stack.
I checked under the Bundles menu for an option that would show me all Bundle commands bound to a particular key combination but couldn't find anything. Short of searching through every single command, or looking at the Bundles -> Select Bundle Item... list, is there any way to figure this out?
A: I figured it out!
The key was using the Bundles -> Select Bundle Item... (^+⌘+T) dialog box. When the box options, in the search field at the top of the dialog box, click the down arrow on the magnifying glass and change the search type from "Item title" to "Key equivalent".
Now you can press the ⌘+⌥+\ key combination and the list will filter to show you the commands bound to that combination:
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Raise/lower/move/resize windows with mouse + modifier keys I'm a longtime FVWM user over on the Linux side and have developed some keyboard + mouse shortcuts that I find very helpful in managing windows. Specifically:
*
*left click + command + shift = send to back if frontmost, otherwise raise to front
*right click + command + shift = maximize window vertically (horizontal size unchanged)
*left+right chord + command + shift = grab window and move it
*left+right chord + command + control + shift = resize (drag pointer to side or corner and move that to resize)
For all of these, "click" means click anywhere in the window.
Is there Mac software that will let me set this up? I'm on 10.6.
Edit
To clarify, the move/resize operations should begin on mouse-down and end on mouse-up.
A: Easy Move+Resize is a great little tool that does exactly what it says on the tin.
Usage
Easy Move+Resize is based on behavior found in many X11/Linux window managers
– Cmd + Ctrl + Left Mouse anywhere inside a window, then drag to move
– Cmd + Ctrl + Right Mouse anywhere inside a window, then drag to resize
This thing was a breath of fresh air after spending too much time trying to figure out how to get the latest version of BetterTouchTool to do what I wanted. It's also not dependent on SIMBL, which is nice.
My only complaint is that the key bindings are not configurable. I'd prefer to use ⌘ Cmd+⌥ Opt+⌃ Ctrl+Left Click for resizing, since clicking and dragging with two fingers on a trackpad is a bit awkward. But hey, it's open source, and as always, there's an issue for that.
A: Not entirely what you are looking for, but you can drag and resize the window without bring it to the foreground. Command-drag on the menu bar (or an empty space on the toolbar) to move the window and command-drag on the resize handle to resize it.
Command-clicking on window elements may allow you to use them while the window stays in the back, but that works inconsistently, iirc.
A: You want Zooom/2. Free trial available. It works by holding down a modifier key and simply move your mouse around (no click required!) and then what ever window your cursor is above will resize or move around depending on what key you press, which is customizable. It does more things as well.
I use JiTouch personally, but that requires a trackpad and to be honest, this specific feature on JiTouch takes a little practice to invoke the gesture required, which is unfortunately not customizable.
A: It's interesting that most OS X users don't easily recognize lower as being the specific feature that's being sought. If I have a window blocking most of the screen:
*
*I don't want to disturb its position, so move is useless.
*it's blocking several windows I want to see, so switching to the all-window view and picking one doesn't help much
*I still want to see part of the window, so minimizing it isn't helpful.
I want to lower it to be behind the other windows. In Unix/Linux, I can just keep typing at the parts of it I can see while leaving it in the back. I just leave the interesting parts of windows visible and interact with all of them without destroying how they're arranged. So easy.
OS X allegedly doesn't even support writing code for pushing a window to the back. Nor typing and mousing at partially hidden windows without using modifiers. Nor is it even remotely decent at leaving my windows where I left them through sleep, being moved, etc. If i kill a window, OS X raises a random number of other windows of the same type, forcing effort to restore order (there may be a setting for this, I'm looking). If i open a window from a window on one screen, the new window will appear on a screen chosen apparently at random instead of on the one the initiator window was on (also might have a strong, not sure).
Overall, OS X window management is abysmal compared to the *mix world - highly frustrating after working with the real thing
A: I think echoing the question is helpful. I havent found a way to lower a window yet and like the original poster states various other things arent a good substitute. The desired behavior is something like option or command + (left, center, or right) mouse anywhere on the window (or instead on the title bar) and the window moves to the lowest (most behind) in the window stacking order, thereby exposing the next window. Pressing again pushes the next one to the back and so on- and with multiple (many) presses you rotate through the entire collection of windows on the screen- its exceptionally fast- say all 10 or 20 windows in in just a few seconds.. Unix window managers let you bind it (lower window is what its called) to most any key and mouse combination. Command left mouse would be a likely choice for many who use it (something you press all the time- thousands of times a day).
I have found that it appears it can be done in code NSWindowLevel (cocoa routines) but I have found no mention of it in any (macos) utility yet. Next I need to look into the different window managers. Switching window managers on a unix box is definitely doable- but some assemby is definitely required. I'm a bit uneasy about jamming in a new window manager here to see what happens. But perhaps its fine.
A: You can run FVWM as your window manager for X11 apps and have this behavior.
For OS X apps, you can move and resize them without the mouse, using just the keyboard, using 3rd party apps (link, link).
I'm not aware of any other techniques to raise or lower.
A: I have not used JiTouch but it claims to have a "move/resize" mode that is based on just the trackpad. If you have a desktop this will work with the external trackpad.
A: Based on this video, you want to use BetterTouchTool.
A: I suggest you to try Afloat.
In 10.9 it is working with finder if it is reloaded after afloat.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7549",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "15"
} |
Q: How do I select a song in a playlist in my library in iTunes 10? In iTunes 9 and earlier, I could go to a playlist and hold down option and click the small arrow next to the name of any song in that playlist to select that song in the main library instead of the playlist. This was very useful, for example if I wanted to remove a song from my library, I could use this to "reveal" the song in the main library and remove it from there.
(This little icon, when clicked on without option, would open the iTunes store for purchasing the selected song)
In iTunes 10, there is no more arrow for me to option click on. How can I select a song in a playlist and go to that same song file in the main library in iTunes 10?
A: One way to do this is through the context menu on the selected song. Ctrl + Click (right click), go to the "Show in Playlist" item, and select the "Music" option. You should then be taken to the song in the main library list.
A: There's an arrow, it's under "ping" (and if you have Ping Disabled the arrow is still there):
When you click on the "ping" icon:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7550",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do I use the "right-to-left override" in Safari for Mac? I'd like to use the "right-to-left override" (unicode character 202E) in Safari. How do I make it work?
A: Open up the Web Inspector with Command+Shift+I and type in this:
copy('\u202e');
If this won't throw an error, the right-to-left override is copied to your clipboard. You can try it even in the console, just press Command+V and then type some text.
This works cross-platform (just be sure to use Ctrl in Windows), in all WebKit browsers, but only inside the console.
Update: I've just installed Safari 5 on Win7 x64, and it seems that the character is copied to the clipboard, but Safari can't handle it. The HTML entity that Dori suggested will work in any HTML document. There, it will work in questions and answers, but not in chat and comments.
A: If all you want is to make it work in Safari:
This is left to right, ‮but this is right to left,<br />
and then this is back to left to right again.
results in:
This is left to right, but this is right to left,
and then this is back to left to right again.
The important bit is the ‮—everything after that will be reversed.
Note: this assumes that the web page is using UTF-8 (and if it isn't, it should be).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7556",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
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