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Q: One Note alternative for Mac? For some time I've been using the combination of FreeMind and One Note on my Windows machine. About a month ago I migrated to Mac and now I'm trying to search for an alternative.
So far I've tried Personal Brain, but it has quite a heavy interface and I don't really like the workflow.
What app(s) would you recommend for managing larger amounts of information on tasks and projects?
A: You have many choices but none of them as good as One Note (It's just my opinion)
*
*Omnioutliner
*Journler
*Macjournal
*EverNote
A: Growly Notes is totally free (and very close to the look of oneNote)
http://www.growlybird.com/GrowlyBird/Notes.html
However, nothing is as good as oneNote (if that is what you like). You can install OneNote 2007 in OSX using crossover (basically 'wine'). This doesn't work with oneNote 2010, only 2007. It starts quickly and works perfectly. The only problem I can see is that hot linking crashes oneNote.
If you do try to install, look for the oneNote 2007 custom setup in crossover, if during setup it complains about fonts etc... just keep going with the install, and skip and problems. OneNote 2007 will run fine under OSX 10.6
http://www.codeweavers.com/products/impersonator/
If you are looking for something a little different, but just as addictive to use as oneNote, I would recommend trying a program called Scrivener. It is one of the few programs I've found to be perfect for writing & organising my thoughts.
http://www.literatureandlatte.com/scrivener.php
You mentioned freemind (mind mapping), I would totally recommend a program called Vue, it's free too, very slick, and not as linear as freemind, also allows you to add notes, keywords, layers etc.. to organise your data.
http://vue.tufts.edu/
I've used all of the other suggested apps (evernote, yojimbo, etc..) I do like them, and use them. But I hope that I have highlighted a few very useful/nice apps, that most people don't know about.
A: *
*Things
*OmniFocus
and another vote for Evernote.
All three offer a form of syncing across devices.
A: I'm currently evaluating DEVONthink and it seems to be a better, if more complicated, alternative to Yojimbo. They have an iOS app (a bit on the expensive side and rough around the edges but usable nonetheless). You can evaluate the product for 150 hours of runtime.
Evernote is the go-to solution, though, if you need to access your data on different platforms and don't care much about syncing manually.
A: Yojimbo. It only works on Mac OS X though. There's no Windows variant (unlike Evernote)
A: Evernote is great if you're working with multiple computers (including smartphones and tablets) but it doesn't have all of OneNote's features.
A: I have used Things to track to-do items and loved the UI and it's capabilities. They have a great iPhone and iPad app but I strongly disliked the syncing capabilities between the phone, pad and the desktop. It syncs via the network. Not a big deal but it got on my nerves after awhile. If you are using one or more desktops only though, I would highly recommend this as a task tracker.
I use Yojimbo for research on my macs. I like the bookmarklets for Safari. They work quite well and it is great for throwing all kinds of information in and tagging it. You can create smart folders based on those tags. Again, I would note that the iPhone app is a bit lacking right now. Syncing is done via .mac only at this time. Which might be one of the few good reasons to buy the service. If you are using more than one PC or you want to data gather on a mobile device, I would say that Evernote is a better solution.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6791",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: iPod Touch 2G broken screen A friend broke her iPod Touch 2G. Additionally, some water got inside. Now the iPod sometimes doesn't start at all, or just freezes and doesn't react to finger touches.
There isn't any background light anymore (or at least, I don't remember there was or if there wasn't)
Because there's no explicit digitizer included in some offers, my question is, is it even possible to seperate the front glass and the digitizer?
My position is that, if there's a cable attached to it, there must be a digitizer too but the owner of the device disagrees with my opinion, so I am asking here for a definitive answer.
A: I haven't seen them sold separately. I imagine it is possible, but good luck finding one or the other by itself.
You can get the "front panel" assembly here ($70), which includes: touchscreen glass, integrated digitizer, metal frame and home button. Install directions here.
The front glass and digitizer should fix the touchscreen problems, but you probably will need a new display to fix the backlight (I haven't seen the light sold separate from the display). You can get that here ($60), with install directions here.
Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6798",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Why does my keyboard switch language in most input fields on the web? I'm basically using US keyboard as my default, but I also have enabled Czech (QWERTY), which has quite different layout for when I need those special characters.
The problem is, that in the past few days whenever I put focus in a password field in Google Chrome, it automatically switches from the US to Czech and I can't switch back, as it is grayed out.
But once I click out of the password field, I can change it back without any problems. What could possibly cause this? I'm using OS X 10.6.6 on Macbook Pro if that's of any relevance.
A: I've had weird input-switching behavior before when the keyboard shortcut to switch input sources was the same as something else I was using, like Quicksilver. Try disabling or changing the relevant shortcuts in System Preferences (under Keyboard & Text Input).
UPDATE: Detailed instructions:
*
*Open System Preferences
*Open the Keyboard preference (under Hardware)
*Select Keyboard and Text on the left
*Find "Select the previous input source" in the box on the right and uncheck it. Its shortcut was probably set to Command-Space.
A: I could solve the issue by performing the following steps in Chrome:
*
*disabling all chrome extensions
*disable chrome extension developer mode
*quit and restart chrome
*enabling the previous settings again
A: I'm having the same problem. I ended up just disabling the other two layouts and the problem stopped. Certainly frustrating, when you can't figure out why you're typing gibberish.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6810",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Can I stream music from my laptop to my iPod Touch over wifi? Rather than running a long cable from my Laptop to my stereo, I've been thinking for a while about getting one of those wireless devices that lets you transmit audio from your PC to a receiver plugged into the stereo.
Then I realised I already have hardware that can potentially do this - I have an iPod Touch, and a Wi-Fi network in the house.
So, is there some iPod Touch App that will let the iPod act as a Wi-Fi music receiver? And presumably, a corresponding piece of broadcast software for my (Windows Vista) Laptop?
edit: Bonus points for a solution that lets me stream all audio from the laptop, rather than just streaming music tracks.
A: You can use the Windows version of Airfoil to send any audio to an Airport Express connected to a stereo. The page above claims it can do the same via an iPod Touch as well. And you can try it for free.
A: You can also share your iTunes library on your Mac of PC and then stream your music from your computer to your iPod touch by selecting that shared iTunes library in the Music app on your iPod touch.
This solution doesn't require any extra software or app.
A: On the road I use the Simplify Media application to do this. It requires an application to be installed on both the computer and the iPod touch/iPhone. Once installed I can play almost any track from my desktop to my iPod touch.
However at my house the simplest solution I have found is to use an Airport Express. I use iTunes to manage my music and then choose to play it on the Airport Express which is connected to my stereo in the living room. I can then use my iPod touch as a remote for iTunes to control what plays.
A: You can use the wifi2hifi app to stream any audio from your Mac but not on your PC to your iOS device.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6811",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How do you use your iPhone as a usb key? I saw a friend of mine manage to use his iPhone as a usb key. I had a large file that I needed to transfer to his computer. So he gave me his iPhone cable, had me open iTunes, open his iPhone in iTunes, select some app that was on his iPhone, drag and drop my file there, and then he could get the file to his machine.
Which app was he using? I want it, too!
A: I haven't tried it yet, but from this description, it looks like Air Sharing is what I want.
A: Also try Dropbox which is useful even just on Macs no iOS devices. If file is put into a public share then you could see it on your PC as well not just his.
A: Not 100% relevant to the OP, but given the prices of flash memory these days and the hurdles one has to jump through to transfer arbitrary data to/from iOS devices I wouldn't recommend it.
If the user instead wants to access/modify the data while it's on the device the practice makes sense, but otherwise it is much more convenient today to just have a USB thumbdrive handy.
(BTW: The app in question was indeed likely to be Air Sharing, an app that's been available almost as long as the SDK has.)
A: He has probably installed USB Drive. It's a very simple application to convert your iphone as a USB key. I tried both on Windows and Mac and it works with ITunes. On windows you need to reboot to use the Drive Only Mode.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6815",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Get rid of text slide in iphoto 11 slide show I added a text slide to a slideshow. I can't get rid of it. If I delete it, the neighboring picture gets deleted, too. If I re-add the picture, the text slide reappears with it.
A: The Title slides in iPhoto work in an odd way.
When you create a title slide iPhoto uses the first photo as the title and then puts text over it.
So when you delete it you are deleting the photo with the text on it.
To remove the text click on the photo, and in the settings pane, uncheck Show Title Slide'.
If you want to add a proper title slide it is better to create it in PowerPoint, Keynote, Paint, Photoshop etc, and save as either a JPEG or PDF and import that as a photo into iPhoto.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6816",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Are there personal finance applications offering both an iPhone and a mac version? With the demise of Cha-ching, I find myself in need of an application for managing my expenses which I can use on both platforms.
It should work in Europe, and maybe have a decent UI.
A: Add MoneyWell to the list
A: You have iCompta which is the one I use. Well followed by its developer, with upgrades and a quick support through dedicated forum.
I must admit I was used to Money on PC and wanted to have something which doesn't change my (good or bad) habits too much. It's a good one for this.
A: iBank and SplashMoney do what you want. I haven't tested either.iBank looks like a nicer interface, but costs a lot more.
A: Not an application but mint.com runs in any browser on the desktop and has an iPhone app. Mint is like throwing all of you money up in the air and it lands in neat little stacks with labels. Mint is free.
I have no affiliation with Mint, I just like it.
A: iBank is a very good desktop application and I found it to be a more than adequate replacement for Microsoft Money when I moved to the Mac.
There is a companion iPhone app which I haven't used yet, but apparently it can sync to the desktop app via WiFi (Bonjour), MobileMe and any WebDAV server. (If they supported DropBox it would be ideal for me and I'd have bought it by now).
(Edit: I should add that I downloaded and evaluated iBank against MoneyWell - for me iBank won hands down though for the life of me now I can't remember why. I think the overall experience just seemed better).
HTH,
Maurice
A: I use You Need a Budget. It's a great little app, and also has a mobile version that is really nice.
A: I just found out http://www.squirrelapp.com/, which looks quite bare-bones, but has the required features.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6818",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can iTunes ignore store credit and use a credit card instead? There are times when I've got some store credit from a gift card/certificate on iTunes, but I want to buy something without that.
I want to buy something with the credit card, regardless of what's prepaid on the account.
Is this possible?
A: Sadly for you, iTunes uses credit in the store before using a credit card.
A: According to Apple's page, it uses the following order for song purchases:
*
*Song credits.
*Gift certificate, prepaid card, or allowance credits.
*Credit cards.
Thus, it would appear that you cannot charge a credit card without using up your credits or gift certificates first.
However, similar to what @Nick said, you could just open up another account, add the credit card to it, and then gift the items you want to your original account.
Update: Based on my own tests of self-gifting, these are my findings:
*
*Gifts will deduct money from the credit card on your account; they will not use up song credits nor gift card credit. This means that you do not need to open another account, just add it as a credit card and gift it to yourself.
*You cannot send a gift to the same email address as your iTunes account. This can easily be circumvented by sending it to one of your other email accounts.
*The easiest method of gifting to yourself is to select the print option. It will show you a code which you then use to redeem the song. It will allow you to redeem the code on the same account.
A: I think if you "gift" something you will use a credit card instead of store credit since you can't buy a gift with store credit.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6827",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Can i Print to a dell 3010cn from Snow Lepoard i have a dell 3010cn printer, and a iMac
having some trouble getting it installed, i know that its not officially supported but i installed foomatic-rip and ghostscript and downloaded the pxldpl PPD file but i wont actually print though it can connect to the printer
the printer is connected to my LAN
A: I was able to achieve success.
On my Ubuntu box I got it to print over wifi,
And on the mac I could print through the Ubuntu Box as a print server.
I used the windows box I have as a server and it worked. No control of any options though.
Never Could print directly though.
A: This Dell driver is for the 3110cn. Maybe it will work?
As you can see from the Google discussions results, many people have tried without success.
Sorry to say, it looks like this isn't possible possible over the LAN.
A Mac should be able to print to almost any printer connected by USB, with or without specific drivers.
A: May be relevant:
http://lists.us.dell.com/pipermail/linux-precision/2007-March/001130.html
From link:
I had to issue a retraction last week,
as I discovered the 3010CN does not in
fact have a PostScript engine in it,
but a Windows GDI engine for which I'm
not aware of CUPS drivers.
No postscript engine likely means its a non-starter for Lin & Mac. Sorry.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6828",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Airport Express constantly can not stream music from any device My older Airport Express (b/g) was cutting off from being seen in iTunes and generally not performing well as a music server or a print server.
Purchased a new Express and still one or some of the computers will see it for an hour or so and then it goes away.
99% of the time I can not see it in Airport Utility when I am 5 feet from it.
Network setup:
EnGenius ESR-9752 with latest firmware is the main AP. This has wired and wireless connections.
Both Airports have static IPs and are on the same subnet and all set to the same channel (1) as the ESR-9752. I can see them all from the ESR-9752. APXn (Maddie) has the latest firmware, Airtunes turned on and is connected to my new speakers.
I know Maddie is working, because I am also using the ethernet port to connect our BlueRay player to the internet through it's connection.
Maddie this morning was playing music.
I can not see Maddie from the Airport Utility or when I try to connect using her MAC.
APXb/g (Xena) is sitting in a room 45 feet away pretending to extend the network (bruno) but I think she just sits there with a green light to make me feel better.
We no not have any cordless phones in the apt. We are a cell phone only apt.
My computer will sometimes see Maddie and play. None of the others, nor will our iPhones see Maddie.
I accepted the fact that my 5 year old APX may be going and shelled out for a new one - but that does not seem to be the trick.
With 2 AP Expresses here - how can I reliably stream the music from iTunes on all of our devices to at least one of them?
A: I've seen that on a couple of them, and the problem seems to be tied to IPv6 support. Mine would drop connections randomly, sometimes requiring a reboot of the AirPort Express before it would return to the network.
Turning off IPv6 entirely in the Network Control panel of our Macs seems to have fixed it. I can stream music to it for hours now without problems, so give that a try.
A: I had a similar problem, which I believe I solved by turning off a "flood limit" feature that was enabled on my main router.
Have a look at your EnGenius ESR-9752's configuration pages. Check the firewall settings. If there's anything that seems like it's set to "limit bursting traffic," try disabling it. Also, make sure these TCP/UDP ports are open, and that MAC address filtering is disabled.
And if changing firewall settings doesn't help, be sure to revert any changes to avoid security issues.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6829",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I use 45/60/85W MagSafe era MacBook chargers interchangeably? I have a 13" Macbook Pro that came with a 60W power adapter and a 15" Macbook Pro that came with a 85W power adapter. There seems to be disagreement in the Apple forums.
Can I use either adapter with any portable Mac?
A: There is a lot of misinformation in some answers. I will give some facts along with my reasoning.
All MagSafe adapters, when plugged into a mechanically matching receptacle on a MacBook/MacBook Pro, are designed to run safely. This is a given for the systems to receive safety certifications. So no, a 60W adapter won't overheat when connected to a machine that needs an 85W adapter. It will clearly run at full capacity for longer than a higher wattage adapter or even fail to keep up with the energy demands of a machine using more than 60w giving you a flat battery if you run a deficit of energy “while charging”.
The MacBook it's plugged into won't operate in a "brownout". It will operate safely, but the CPU performance will be diminshed. The below explains why.
A MacBook's power management works very simply: it maintains a balance of power between the power consumed by the loads and the power available from the sources. There are two sources of power:
*
*power adapter,
*battery as a power source.
There are two loads:
*
*battery charger,
*the machine (logic, drives, memory, screen, speakers, USB devices, etc.)
Both loads are adjustable and the power management's function is to adjust them as needed.
The battery as a power source is exclusive of the battery charger: a battery may operate as a power source, or the battery charger may operate, but never both at once.
The power management must maintain the following inequality balanced, in terms of power: (power adapter + battery as a power source) >= (battery charger + the machine). The loads are prioritized: the machine has priority over the battery charger. The power management system also knows the electronic nameplate of the power supply and thus its rated power.
Thus, given an available input power, the machine load is satisfied first, and any leftover power is provided to the battery charger. If there isn't enough power left for the charger, the battery is by definition discharging unless it has no charge left. This is important. Conversely, a fully charged battery will demand a zero charger load, and that's fine.
If there isn't enough power for the machine, the load shedding kicks in and throttles the CPU (and perhaps GPU - I don't recall offhand). The CPU load shedding will, by design, always manage to balance the power. The 60W supply, even if connected to a 17 inch MBP, will satisfy all internal and external loads (USB, FW, drives, screen), except for the CPU and GPU. So the latter will be throttled to maintain the power balance. That's why the performance will be poor with an inadequate power supply.
Since the machine load takes priority and doesn't shed until there's insufficient power available, the battery will be always discharging whenever the supply can't provide sufficient power to cover the machine's needs. This means that with a 60W charger, the battery will charge only during light CPU load. If you have both cores going full-throttle, the battery will be always discharging until it reaches a zero charge state.
The rate at which the battery charges will also depend on the machine load. The battery charger can consume up to ~30W or so. With an 85W adapter, that leaves about 55W for the machine, and it's insufficient to power a full machine load. Since the machine load takes precedence, the power available to the charger will vary depending on the entirety of the machine load: CPU/GPU, drives, USB/FireWire, screen, etc. With a very high machine load, the charger is left with very little power to use, even with an 85W supply, and will take very long to charge the battery. The longest I've seen was 20+ hours with everything going full blast (full CPU+GPU load, all USB and FireWire ports delivering full rated power, all drives spinning, screen at full brightness, speakers blaring).
Finally, the supply's electronic nameplate is stored in the chip residing in the MagSafe jack. If the MagSafe jack is damaged or doesn't have the nameplate chip, the power manager does two things:
*
*Assumes a 60W power supply.
*Disables the battery charger.
A: Apple's official word on the matter is:
Make sure the proper wattage adapter for your portable computer is used.
Select the appropriate power adapter for your Apple portable computer. You can use a higher wattage power adapter, but you cannot use one with less wattage without potential operating issues. (here + discussion here).
So your 13" can use your 15" charger, but not vice versa.
I've never heard of it voiding a warranty (nor experienced it when we've used the wrong charger), but it's better to be safe than sorry.
A: I did use a 13'/65W power adapter on my 15'er for a long time.
What happened with me was that the battery got significantly bloated (visible from the outer aluminim shell and only after ~150 loadcycles) while still delivering proper batterylife...
Please take into consideration that this might be completely unrelated, probably. Plus my battery was replaced at no cost in an Apple store (Macbookpro late 2008, 1st gen unibody) while I'm still not sure if Applecare also covers the battery on 3yrs.
A: Do NOT use a lower-than-spec'd power-supply with your portable. It will power on, but will be running in a brown-out condition, causing shortened life due to excessive heat.
We found this out the hard way with an after market power-supply on an iBook. It was just under the needed power output, causing the unit to always run hot, and eventually shutting down because of too much heat. After several months it got so it would run for 10-20 minutes then turned off, and eventually quit entirely. We tried getting it repaired, but it was too far gone.
A: You will not harm anything using the incorrect adapter. The charging circuitry in Intel Macs is very sophisticated and won't let anything bad happen.
Using the higher-wattage adapter with a low-power-requirement notebook will work. The computer will only draw as much power from the adapter as it needs. Using the low-wattage adapter on a high-draw notebook will result in the adapter powering the computer OR charging the battery, but not both. If you plug a 60W adapter in to a MacBook Pro at 50% battery charge, the battery will just stay at 50% (or either drain or charge very slowly) while the computer is on. If the computer is asleep or shut down, the battery will charge at a normal rate.
A: I took a close look at my '65W' adapter. Apparently, it's not a 65W adapter after all, but an 85W with the older connector (the fat head connector). I always assumed it was 65W because of the age of our 2006 MBP... I guess the guy we bought it from used had replaced the adapter. You may want to check yours closely since they can get mixed up.
A: I have been using the 60w adapter from my old 13"macbook pro(which was stolen a while ago) for my new 15" macbook pro for about a month because I assumed that all the cables or adapters are the same from Apple(since it is the case for the usb cable) and I did not realize until one day it turned off itself. Most of the time, my macbook pro was connected to the power. Now I have switched to the 85w adapter and everything works fine, thank god. my question is: will this cause any issue or damage to my battery or hard drive or other parts of my macbook pro?
A: Update. Apple has added a support page to break this down. Note that the power adapter (square block) is a separate from the cable on USB Macs
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201700
Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with Apple inc.
A: I'm using a 60W power adapter for my 2009 15 MacBook Pro. It runs fine if I'm doing light tasks, however, if I'm running an intensive application like Starcraft 2 on Bootcamp the battery will stop charging and drain very slowly.
A: I have both a Macbook Unibody from 2010 and a MacBook Pro early 2008. I swapped the adaptors and it works fine for both machines. Also, the MacBook Pro using the 60 W power adaptor is charging the battery, although it is a little bit slower.
A: Is it a good idea? Nope. Does it work? Yes. The wattage rating is matched up with your particular laptop's needs. If you use a lower rated power supply, in many circumstances it will work ok, it may just charge a little bit slower. If your laptop is powered off, it'll charge decently fast too.
However if you then boot into something less power efficient like linux or windows, you'll notice that despite being hooked up to a power supply, you are slowly losing battery life because there's simply not enough wattage to drive the whole thing and a lot of the power saving features aren't properly implemented. This also can be an issue if you have modified the hardware in your laptop, or if you try to do heavy gaming (anything that gets disks and fans spinning). If this is your situation, you can still use the lower power supply, but you're going to eventually hit a point where the transformer will overheat (really bad), or you will just run out of power.
So in a perfect world, you should always have the adapter that apple intended you to have (or a higher rated one). But if you have to use a lower rated one for a little while it won't be the end of the world.
A: Just my two cents.
I don't think this talk of "Brown out" is correct. The MacBook will always have enough power from the battery to operate without "Brown out". It's only when the battery gets critically low that the computer may think it's getting sufficient power to operate as it's plugged in but will probably be in a reduced performance mode due to the low voltage of the battery. This will manifest as operation of the computer being sluggish. As a battery nears "empty" it will produce more heat, so despite being in low performance, this may cause the fans to spin up, even though the computer isn't doing as much.
To prolong the life of a battery it's best to keep it at 50%, perhaps a bit more, especially if you're going to put the computer to sleep when unplugged as this will draw some power. If you're storing a laptop, make sure you charge it before hand and periodically top it up. If possible, remove the battery as this will slow the discharge.
So I believe that a low wattage adapter is fine if you only use it to charge the laptop when it's sleeping or off. If you use the adapter while operating the computer then I would keep a careful eye on battery level and stop using it when power gets to say 10%.
It's bad to store your computer fully charged as this will age the battery but it's even more detrimental to store your computer fully discharged as some power will still be used, even if the computer is off, and the battery charge will drop below "0%" and this will kill your battery faster than anything else and cause battery bloat. Puffed batteries are always a symptom of fully discharging it.
I have experience with RC batteries that have no intelligence built in. There is however some management built into the systems they're plugged into. I have LiPo batteries that are 12 years old that still perform ok because I make sure to try and store them at 60-70%, or at least not fully charged or discharged.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6834",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "78"
} |
Q: iBooks automatically generating cover pages for PDFs? I've loaded some lengthy PDFs onto my iPad in iBooks, and I've noticed that for only one of them, it's seemed to have created a beige cover page for the PDF thumbnail with what looks like the file name. It's nice, but I was unaware of this feature and ideally I'd like it to include the author and paper title instead of the file name. Does anyone know more about this functionality or how I can change what this new cover page says?
A: I am pretty sure the thumbnail is created from the first page in the pdf document.
So to alter the icon you could add another coverpage to the pdf document.
A: If you open the PDF in Preview on a Mac, you can drag/drop page thumbnails around (hold option to copy a page) and even drag a page from one PDF into another.
This way you can use the print system's "Save as PDF" feature to set anything as the first page.
Alternatively switch from bookshelf view to list view, where you can see the filenames.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: any bluetooth keyboards with integrated pointing device (trackball/trackpad)? I'm looking for a keyboard and pointing device which I can use when my laptop is plugged into my TV. It needs to be able to connect to the laptop via bluetooth (I want to minimize the time and effort connecting the laptop), and the pointing device must be integrated into it.
I'm having a big problem finding a device to fit the bill online. I would have thought it was a very popular problem, and that there'd be plenty of devices out there... I've considered buying a bluetooth keyboard and "apple magic trackpad", which would be perfect if they were one unit...
The laptop is a macbook. I don't care if it's designed for windows, so long as it works with OS X.
Recommendations?
A: The Logitech diNovo Edge keyboard has a little trackpad on it. It's got a Mac version (~$150).
Also, the Adesso SlimTouch Wireless Mini Touchpad Keyboard for Mac (~$110) looks okay. I haven't used this brand, though.
A: Fentek has a mini bluetooth keyboard with nubbin which seems to be perfectly suitable, and it's about $50.
There's also an Aldesso bluetooth mouse-keyboard for about $130.
A: If you need rugged solution and price is no object try
https://www.keyboardspecialists.co.uk/Shop/KBS/Product/2992/BT-87-TP/iKeyBT-87-TPDesktopBluetoothKeyboard.aspx
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Why is the current provisioning process for iPhone development implemented the way it is? Given the large number of examples of issues with the manual steps necessary to provision devices and install apps using the developer SDK, I am wondering why Apple took this route.
Specifically, the process seems to be error-prone and could likely be automated.
Is this just a rite of passage or are there reasons for implementing it this way that I am missing?
*
*Are there reasons some of these steps HAVE to be manual?
*Does anyone see a way of improving this or does anyone know of some automation/scripts that make this simpler for developers new to the platform?
A: The biggest issue is the key generation. The hardcore security of iOS is that only signed apps are allowed to run on your devices, unless you've jailbroken it and installed a package to bypass this, typically for non-licensed deploying or app pirating.
You need to generate a key based on Apple's certificate authority, or CA. Then you upload it to the portal and Apple approves it, provided you're a paid developer. Whenever you deploy an app, be it to the store or to your device for testing, you sign the app with your digital signature, which is backed by Apple. This tells your device, or your testers' or customer's devices, that the app is from a developer who is who he says he is. Since the main way to get an app on your device is through the store, you have the confidence that it is not tampered with (since the developer's signature is invalid with the flip of a single bit in the app) and that it's passed through Apple's checks by being hosted on the store. This is a two-fold assurance of the security.
Provisioning profiles are a whole other beast. Previously, Apple would let you "sideload" an app to any number of devices you wanted. This meant that you could bypass the App Store and sell apps yourself as a download, no different than desktop apps. Apple didn't approve of this and has since limited it to 100 devices per year being listed on a single developers account. You add your devices to the portal by it's UDID, it's unique fingerprint, and you would need to get this from any devices you wish to beta test your app or adhoc deploy to. Since it costs roughly $0.99 / year / device, it's prohibitively expensive to sell apps this way, but it allows you to have plenty of beta testing slots. Of course, a provisioning profile is the list of which devices can run which apps signed by who developer.
In recent Xcode's, once you've established your key (which would be difficult to automate from inside Xcode), you can plug in any iDevice, open the organizer and click "Use for Development". Xcode will prompt for your credentials and then automatically add the device to the portal and create a provisioning profile for you. Once you've done the initial setup, it's basically one-click to add an extra device. I don't think Apple is as worried about the initial setup being automated, since it's only a one-time process.
(Sorry, I'm trying to work on my long-windedness.)
A: The free TestFlight service aims to help with test app distribution, although I don't know if it makes it easier to test on your own device.
A: I haven't seen a lot of speculation as to why they have it be this way other than to say that it's probably designed with device and user security in mind to keep the "riff raff" out of the process (i.e., creators of malicious software). You are, however, in good company with your frustrations regarding how the whole process works. Near as I can tell, outside of prepping a device for local, hard-wired testing, there is no way to automate any of this.
In the end, this is Apple's decision, and they have never said why it is this way. C'est la vie.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How to install iPhone apps through OTA without iTunes interaction? I am following this guide on how to install iPhone apps thru OTA without iTunes.
I have the following questions:
*
*I only have a $99 developer program membership, not the enterprise program. The guide says this also works with normal ad-hoc distribution as well. Can I use my ad-hoc provisioning profile itself to do this?
*I am testing with the iPhone 4 Simulator, as I don't have a physical iOS 4 device. But when I click on the "Provisioning profile" link, the simulator throws an error:
Cannot install profile. Safari could not install a profile due to unknown error.
When I click on the .plist link as mentioned in the guide, it doesn't do anything that looks like this.
Can I test this installation on the iPhone 4 simulator? What could be the reason for this failing?
A: The Simulator does not use a bundled .ipa file; it uses the constituent application. Furthermore, the Simulator runs an x86 version of the application with tweaked x86 versions of the iOS frameworks. In other words, there is no good way to get an .ipa package to run in the Simulator. The original developer could build for simulator then provide you with the relevant contents of ~/Library/Application\ Support/iPhone\ Simulator/User/Applications/ but that's really your only hope as far as I know.
A: I know of two ways to install apps on iPhone without using iTunes: through a complicated process on a jailbreaken phone or through some 3rd party service.
A: Testflight is Apple's inflight service for distributing betas. Absolutely helpful and valuable service. We are picked this service within minutes.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Turn on Back To My Mac via a Script or Command Line
Possible Duplicate:
Turn on Back To My Mac via a Script or Command Line
The VPN software I use for work (IPSecuritas) requires me to turn off Back To My Mac to start it's connection, so I frequently turn off Back To My Mac in order to use my VPN connection (the program does this for me). I forget to turn it back on however and I'd love to know if there was something I could run (script, command) to turn it back on.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What app can I use to create mockups for websites? I'm looking for a free or commercial software for Os X to create mockups for websites. Any suggestion?
A: Balsamiq Mockups is a good one, fairly cheap and very good - http://balsamiq.com/
A: You can do all sorts of fun things with Omnigraffle as well. And if you're looking for a way to make easy wireframes of current websites, you might do worse than checking out Wirify. Good luck!
A: WireframeSketcher is a cross-platform rapid wireframing tool.
A: For mocking up websites I swear by Adobe Fireworks, it might be overkill, but the abilty to have a library of buttons etc and set a master page that carries elements to all the other pages, so headers/footers etc only need to be changed once.
A: Check out frame box—a "lightweight online tool for creating mockups."
A: Depending on the definition of "mockup", you might be interested in DENIM.
DENIM is a system that helps web site
designers in the early stages of
design. DENIM supports sketching
input, allows design at different
refinement levels, and unifies the
levels through zooming.
A: Just In Mind is probably one of the most extensive commercial website mockup apps, and Mockingbird is a fairly lightweight online mockup tool.
If you use Firefox 3, take a look at Pencil, a free wireframe sketching add-on. A version for Firefox 4 is available here, but I haven't tried it.
A: You may try SwordSoft Layout. It also available on the App Store
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I check if the motherboard has been replaced? An authorized repair center said they changed the motherboard of my iMac 27" but I have doubts since I can still experience the problem for what I had it repaired.
I was told on a forum that if the computer's SN was invisible or started differently in the About this Mac menu it meant that the MB had been replaced.
I'm seeing the same SN so it should mean that the MB was not replaced, but on the phone the repair guy said this method is wrong.
What do you say ?
A: The MAC address is linked to the logic board. So, if the logic board has been changed, MAC address will have changed too.
I've been told this by a Genius et Genius Bar when he said they need to change my logic board and asked if my router was checking MAC address for allowing net access, as I will then have to reconfigure it.
It also seems to be backed-up by this technical note (look for first occurrence of "logic board").
Edit: For your previous MAC addresses (ethernet and wifi and bluetooth, as I suppose they all change on a logic board exchange), you will find them on your computer's box, if you still have it (but it seems to be the case:)). These are the Ethernet ID, Airport ID and Bluetooh ID. You can then check in System Profiler to get the current ones.
| {
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} |
Q: Cannot empty trash after deleting .dmg So, I downloaded Chrome, and I put it in the Applications folder and from there a shortcut to the applications bar on the bottom of the screen. All is fine, but now there's an icon on the desktop that looks like a harddrive with a Chrome icon on it. I don't want it there, but I don't know what to do with it. I also have the DMG file from the download in the Trash, but it won't let me delete it.
So, how do I get rid of the downloaded file which I thought was 'installed' in the Applications folder?
Also, how do I get rid of the Chrome HDD icon on the desktop.
And, in the end how many copies of an application does OS X keep just to make it work? It's rather annoying coming from Windows, where there's only one...
Anyway, help would be appreciated!
A: The hard-drive looking thing on the desktop is a mounted disk image; the .dmg file is the file where the data for the image is.
To get rid of the image, unmount it. There are three four five good ways to do it:
*
*Drag the disk to the trash. The trash will turn into an eject icon while dragging.
*Highlight the disk on the desktop and select File > Eject in the Finder menu bar.
*Highlight the disk on the desktop and press Command-E.
*In any Finder window, press the Eject button next to the disk in the sidebar.
*Right-click (or control-click or two-finger-click) on the icon and select Eject. (from JoshHibschman in the comments below)
*You can also eject from the commandline using diskutil if you really want.
After you eject the disk
Insofar as the application "file" is concerned, there is only one copy of the application: the one in the /Applications folder. The icon in the dock is only a link (not really a shortcut, as there's no file like a shortcut in the Start menu or the Quick Launch bar, but it's not bad to think of the Dock icon as a "shortcut".)
And to answer your first question, this is a great place to come with questions. Hope you have a good time on the Mac!
| {
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} |
Q: How to remove a number from 'Recents' on iPhone, rather deleting all? Since many days I am trying to achieve this, but I can only delete/ clear all recent dial, received phone numbers.
Is there an option/ hack to delete only one number at a time on my iPhone ?
I have iPhone 3GS
A: You will have to wait for iOS 5 to be able to do what you are asking. I'm running iOS 5 and I'm able to do this without a jailbreak.
A: If your iPhone is jailbroken you can install the package Ixtension (it's $9.99 from the BigBossRepo)
Disclaimer: I'm in now way affiliated with the developers.
A: Go to 'recents' on phone. Tap 'edit' in top right hand corner of screen.
You will then have like no entry sign type symbol at the left of each number in recents. Tap the no entry sign by the number you wish to delete, a box will appear to the right of that number asking you if you wish to delete it, then type delete.
A: I doubt iOS allows you to enumerate recent calls through standard iOS apps. I would suspect that through jail-breaking you could make an app yourself that could do it. Other than that, I doubt it's possible at all.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: iPhone app or mod in cydia to remap headset inline remote buttons? I was wondering if there's any package in Cydia or iPhone app that would allow me to change the inline remote buttons behavior. I often walk around the cydia with my headphones on and speaking the VoiceOver commands is really unconfortable.
I can normally reach my iphone from my pocket to switch up or down the volume, so I would like to use the headset buttons to skip songs.
A: In case anyone needs this too I've found that the package External iPod controls ($0.99), lets me remap my iPhone external volume buttons to change songs, so I can skip to the next song pressing the volume buttons when my iPhone is in my pocket, and I can still control the volume levels from my headset buttons.
A: activator in cydia is what you are looking for. Complete button remapping/shortcut creator.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Does Safari for iOS 4.2.1 support WebGL? Does iOS 4.2.1, the latest release at the time of this question, support WebGL?
A: Not at this point, no. WebKit, that which Safari for Mac OS and iOS are both based on, is supposed to support WebGL but I have yet to be able to get it work properly on Mac OS 10.6, much less iOS. I get the impression the whole thing is too new (relatively) for proper support.
A: WebGL resources:
*
*http://www.khronos.org/webgl/wiki/Main_Page
*http://www.scriptol.com/programming/webgl.php
*http://learningwebgl.com/blog/
*https://developer.mozilla.org/en/WebGL
*http://planet-webgl.org/
Looks like its only in Webkit, and even then you have to enable it:
More info: http://webkit.org/blog/603/webgl-now-available-in-webkit-nightlies/
A: I would not get your hopes up of iOs ever supporting WebGL. Not only because exposing the video drivers to untrusted parties poses a security risk. It would also give game developers a way to circumvent the app store for distributing games. Same reason you will never see the flash support extend beyond anything but video.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is it possible to change the file format of Grab.app? I know that you can change the format used by ⌘⇧3 and ⌘⇧4 (SE answer and external source), but is it also possible to change the format of Grab.app (uses TIFF)?
A: Doesn't seem to be possible. Even the limited Help for Grab.app suggests using Preview to convert away from TIFF. I presume you need "Timed Screen Captures" otherwise you would use the keyboard shortcuts?
Note that you can take the grab, then copy the image without saving (CMD+A, CMD+C), then ALT+TAB to Preview.app, then CMD+N, then save. Not very elegant.
You could also just deal with Grab.app saving as TIFF, but then set up an Automator action that watches a folder and converts TIFF to whatever you want each time a TIFF shows up in the folder. This ought to be fairly easy and transparent way to use Grab.app and get the file formats of your choice.
A: No you can't change it from TIFF
Grap help gives
Converting Grab screen shots to other formats
Grab saves screen shots as files in TIFF format. If you want to use your screen shots on the web, in email, or in a word processor, you can use the Preview application to convert the TIFF files to other formats, such as JPEG or PNG.
To convert a Grab screen shot to
another format:
Open Preview, located in Applications.
Open Preview Choose File > Open and
choose the file to convert.
Choose File > Save As and choose a
file format from the Format pop-up
menu.
You can also use applications from
other manufacturers to open and
convert TIFF files created in Grab.
A: Is there any particular reason not to use the screen capture functionality built in to Preview? This way you can save as any format immediately, instead of having to use Preview (or sips, or whatever) to convert after the fact.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Utility to integrate iTunes with Amazon
Is there any utility or script that integrates with iTunes and helps me organize my libraries by doing lookups on large databases such as Amazon?
For example:
*
*downloading track names from Amazon
*downloading CD covers from Amazon
*downloading book categories from Amazon (this one especially would be useful)
Or in general, at least a "look it up on Amazon" script would be great.
A: Meta X works great for me for movies, not sure if you're looking for that though since you just mention music and books.
A: I just noticed this application - SuperSync - mentioned on MacWorld. It specifically mentions that it uses Amazon (among other sources) although I'm not sure if it's truly integrated with iTunes or works directly on the media files. There is a demo version available if you want to try it out.
Cheers,
Maurice
| {
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} |
Q: Is there an app to disable everything but GPS on iPhone? I use my iPhone 4 as a GPS device when I go tramping, but since the phone is constantly searching for signal in remote locations it drains through the battery extremely quickly.
The simple solution is to remove the sim card, although I've lost one microsim this way, and it's not an ideal solution.
I'm looking for a method to disable the phone/transmitting functions, while still being able to use GPS. Does anyone know of any apps (I guess from the Cydia store - I doubt Apple would allow this) or method to achieve this?
Edit: Just to be clear, what I'm meaning is that all transmitting functions on the iPhone are turned off - the only thing that should still be functioning is the GPS.
The 'phone' toggle in SBSettings doesn't work because it disables most things including GPS, and just leaves wifi enabled.
Update: Just to be clear, the same result I'm looking for can be achieved by removing the microsim, it's just that it feels like there should be an easier way to accomplish this without removing the sim.
A: If jailbroken, SBSettings allows one to turn off everything: Data, Wifi, Bluetooth, 3G, Edge, Phone, SSH, etc. but leave GPS enabled.
If not jailbroken, Settings > General > Network lets you turn off WiFi, 3G, BlueTooth, and Data, which leaves GPS, Edge, and Phone. Turn brightness all the way down. This ought to extend battery life quite a bit.
A: I'd thought I'd share - the best way to do this without needing a paper clip and peeling off your case is to use the SIM PIN function. Turn it on (Settings->Phone-> SIM PIN) and reboot the phone. When it asks to unlock the SIM, just hit cancel. This will have the same effect as removing the SIM
Of course do to this you'll need the SIM PIN. For AT&T the default is 1111. You should be able to get your SIM PIN from your carrier.
Not sure if this works with non-SIM iPhones, i.e Verizon.
http://adventurealan.com/iphone4gps.htm
A: Your primary concern is battery life. The number one battery drainer is when the screen brightness is set higher than necessary. Also make sure Auto-Brightness is turned on. This will somewhat automate the process for you, but it unfortunately isn't as effective as manually adjusting the brightness as needed (while still keeping the Auto-Brightness setting turned on).
The next two things that drain a lot of battery (excluding GPS) is the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi radios. Turn them off as often as possible.
Next I have found that GPS still functions when you turn off 3G and Cellular Data. Those certainly drain a bit of battery. The phone is, in fact, still functional after turning these off, but you should still get longer battery life by sticking with EDGE. And to answer your comment earlier, EDGE is used for for both voice and data. Perhaps the GPS radio is integrated into the cellular radio; possibly explaining the lack of independence here. The reason I suspect this is because the cheaper Wi-Fi iPad lacks GPS functionality.
Perhaps even a reboot is a good idea to stop any multitasking apps from running in the background or even staying in memory. Also, I'm not sure if it's necessary to turn off Notifications if you already turned off Cellular Data, but it may help too. Especially if you left Cellular Data on, then you wanna at least turn off Notifications.
And here's a thought, perhaps turning off MMS Messaging could also help...?
Alternative options could be to simply turn off your phone completely between uses or to switch back and forth between Airplane Mode as needed. And finally perhaps a phone call to Apple may clear things up.
P.S. I also just thought of one more idea, there are ways to disable multitasking with various Cydia apps once jailbroken. I'd imagine this would drain less battery if you turned that off as well.
A: Yet to test but found this in another thread
In IOS 5.0 (9a334), on my Apple Iphone 4, you can now go to "Settings" - "General" - "Network" and there:
*
*turn off "Enable 3G"
*turn off "Cellular Data"
*turn off "Wi-Fi"
*turn off "Data Roaming"
Then go back to top menu under "Settings" and choose "Location Services" then at the very bottom choose "System Services" then:
*
*turn off "Cell Network Search"
*turn off "Location-Based Iads"
*turn off "Traffic"
It seems to me then that you will be left with GPS and Compass Calibration as items in effect. It is really weird there is no single toggle for "Enable GPS".
A: I saw this on the backpackinglight.com forum:
"The second option is set up a sim PIN. When you restart the phone, you can choose not to enter the pin. This turns off the phone and allows you to use the gps and prolong battery life. I'm doing a test right now with MotionX. I've been running the track recorder now for almost 15 hrs, and the battery is still at 89%."
They also mention that 3 incorrect pin attempts locks the sim card so be careful if you try this.
A: I put the iPhone into Airplane mode when I don't need GPS. I turn Airplane mode off when I want GPS. Airplane mode is quite quickly accessible via the Settings app.
I usually take a photo every now and then to track my locations throughout a tramping track (that's the only case I use GPS for while tramping). Since GPS needs some time to connect and get the location anyway, I don't find it inconvenient to fiddle with the Settings app for 2 seconds upfront.
I recently went on a 4-day hike and returned with 75% battery life on my 3GS using this technique. This time, I only took <= 10 or so photos with GPS turned on, though. But as you can see, there should be room for quite some more GPS requests.
Of course, turning off Airplane mode enables every wireless technology on your phone. But I don't think that's too bad. If you turn off 'Cellular Data' and 'WiFi' in the settings, too, before starting a track, the iPhone does not attempt to find a 3G, Edge or Wifi network while in remote areas. Hence you save some more battery power.
A: Since, when in airplane mode you can only use wifi, try getting MYWI from cydia and turn on wifi tethering which will then display your 3g/edge as a wifi network, allowing it to work even when in airplane mode.
A: As far as I can tell, this isn't possible anymore. It used to be that SBSettings had a "Phone" toggle that allowed you to turn off the phone chip so to speak. Apparently there were some bugs and no one ever bothered to fix them so they just deleted it :(
Removing the sim card is the only way I know of since iOS 4.3 or so when the above mentioned bug was introduced.
FYI, the SIM PIN "hiking mode" hack messes with things quite a bit on jailbroken phones :(
A: Putting in airplane mode turns off all radios, including GPS even though it is not a transmitter. But then you can turn on WiFi and GPS also turns on.
I understand that WiFi can make GPS more accurate, but that's not sufficient reason to lock them together that way. (And WiFi can't improve GPS when you're miles away from any WiFi AP!) But Apple did tie them that way.
I also use Motion-X and I also turn on Bluetooth for a heart-rate monitor.
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can I export SMS text messages from my iPhone? When answering this question, please note if the solution is:
*
*For Windows and/or Mac OS X users
*The price of the solution
*If you have successfully—and actually—used the solution
How can I export SMS text messages from my iPhone?
A: I rely on PhoneView which you correctly note is a Mac OS X only paid solution.
It has always been updated very quickly by the developers each time a new iOS is released. I even received support several times for pre-release / beta versions of iOS and iTunes. Support emails are promptly answered and I have twice received custom builds from them to resolve issues using their product with pre-release iOS versions to assist me in managing the devices I use for iOS development.
I've used PhoneView to save data from a phone that iTunes said was broken and could only be erased and then restored. It's been a reliable swiss army knife for me filling in many gaps that iTunes and Xcode leave for managing iOS devices.
A: *
*Get /var/mobile/Library/SMS/sms.db
*It is now exported.
What format do you want the export to be? The existing format is sqlite, so you can convert it to ASCII like so: sqlite3 sms.db .dump > sms.db.txt
For step one, you can jailbreak and then scp, or you can just search your backup folder for the file, no jailbreak required.
If your phone is not jailbroken, look on OS X in:
~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup/<long_hex_string>/
And, in my case, and according to various web sources, although not in all cases, is named:
3d0d7e5fb2ce288813306e4d4636395e047a3d28
To answer your other questions: Any OS, Free, Successful.
A: I used CopyTrans Contacts for Windows (not sure whether it also operates on Mac) to export my iPhone SMS and iMessage text messages to my PC.
Here is where I found out about the tool: How to export iPhone SMS
I do not know the price as I used their free version to export all of my 100+ messages I think you have to pay if you want to export a really large number of SMS text messages.
A: I'm on windows and I bought Decipher Text Message (Mac $7, Windows $10). It did the trick for my needs and backed up all my work sms messages from my iphone. My girlfriend uses it too however, she is on a mac. The cool thing is that the program also saved my sms images, which I hadn't even expected. Has anyone tried any of the other tools?? Curious about them.
A: A windows software solution is Save The Message
The software is free (trial) however the costs after the 30 day trial are $9.99 for a basic account, $99 for a professional" account.
A: There are numerous tools (as linked elsewhere here), both free and expensive, to export message data. They all rely on interpreting data from an unencrypted iPhone backup. You can actually do this yourself if you're particular about how the data is exported.
The key facts are:
*
*Your backup lives inside ~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup/{uid}/.
*The manifest.db is an SQLite database mapping all the files in that directory to actual filenames on the device.
*The Library/SMS/sms.db file on your iPhone is another database containing all the message and attachment data.
*Combining the manifest and sms databases lets you query and export all the conversations and attachments from decrypted files in your backup directory.
I wanted to future-proof my exported messages (or make their contents human-readable and easily accessible), so I wrote a script to load these database, export the chats as JSON files, and archive all the attachments alongside each chat (message group).
The result is a kind of hacky but working (for me) tool that I've uploaded to GitHub: iPhone message export. This script might be a good starting point if you're interested in doing these backups yourself.
(The price is free, I've successfully tested on macOS with an iOS 14 backup. I think if windows backups are stored the same way, the same python code should work there as well.)
A: AllYourTexts - free - Windows
Full disclosure: I'm the author.
*
*Allows you to view SMS and MMS data from your PC
*Supports exporting to plaintext or HTML files.
*Shows you graph visualizations of your texting behavior over time.
I was looking for a solution to this myself and I was unhappy with the 3rd party offerings. I felt like they were overpriced or poorly designed, so I wrote my own.
A: Believe it or not, there's an app for that!
The app SMS Export ($4.99) will allow you to export your SMS to the software on both your Mac and Windows.
You can make a back-up of your entire SMS-database or export the SMS-messages to your computer:
You can converted SMS to HTML, CSV or Text. Then you can load your SMS
into any program like Excel or Word and print them.
A: My destination for the export was a new Smasung Galaxy Note, so the Samsung Kies software (eventually) managed to import the SMSs from an unencrypted iPhone backup. Kies is free for Samsung phones. It was necessary to 'update drivers' from one of the menus in Kies before this worked for me. Kies also prevents me running Android File Transfer on 10.8, so I uninstalled Kies once the import was complete.
Otherwise, I've successfully used DiskAid on the Mac to export my SMSs to a flat text file. A useful reference, but I'd rather it exported a friendly (ie standard) SQLite database so I could easily use the data elsewhere.
DiskAid is $29.90 at the time of answer, but they also offer free educational licenses to folk with email addresses at tertiary institutions.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6900",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "47"
} |
Q: How can I change a file or folder icon using the Terminal How can I change or set the icon for a file or folder, in the terminal, do I need to use a scripting language?
A: Check out setfileicon (source code), an utility created by Damien Bobillot.
Download the binary here: http://maxao.free.fr/telechargements/setfileicon.gz
After unpacking the file, make it executable:
chmod +x setfileicon
Then you can use it as follows:
./setfileicon "my-icon.icns" "my-file-or-directory"
A: You'll need the Developer Tools installed, and then the following might work. This takes the graphic in icon.png and applies it to file.ext.
# Take an image and make the image its own icon:
sips -i icon.png
# Extract the icon to its own resource file:
/Developer/Tools/DeRez -only icns icon.png > tmpicns.rsrc
# append this resource to the file you want to icon-ize.
/Developer/Tools/Rez -append tmpicns.rsrc -o file.ext
# Use the resource to set the icon.
/Developer/Tools/SetFile -a C file.ext
# clean up.
rm tmpicns.rsrc
# rm icon.png # probably want to keep this for re-use.
A: With the benefit of several years of hindsight:
user588's answer and koiyu's answer work well, but they rely on utilities (Rez, DeRez, and SetFile) that:
*
*are not installed by default (they come with either Xcode or the developer command-line utilities)
*are now deprecated (Rez and DeRez, because they relate to Carbon)
The osxiconutils project looks interesting, but is no longer maintained and won't compile any longer (as of macOS 10.10.4).
*
*velkoon points out that the linked repo offers downloading a ZIP file with (x64) binaries that still work as of macOS 13 (Ventura). You'll have to authorize the binaries for local execution by running the following against the ZIP file before extracting its contents: xattr -d com.apple.quarantine osxiconutils.zip.
*A notable limitation of the seticon utility is that it can only assign .icns files, not also other image formats - unlike the fileicon utility discussed below.
Therefore I've created CLI fileicon, which should work on a pristine macOS machine (no prerequisites); it is a Bash script based primarily on xattr, xxd and an embedded Python script that calls Cocoa, courtesy of this helpful answer. [Update: Since Python no longer comes with macOS, the Python script has been replaced with an ObjC Bridge AppleScript.]
It allows setting/removing/extracting custom icons for/from files or folders, including on APFS volumes on macOS 10.13 (High Sierra). [Update: Still works as of macOS 13, Ventura.]
You can install it as follows:
*
*If you have Homebrew installed: brew install fileicon
*If you have Node.js installed, from the npm registry, with
[sudo] npm install -g fileicon
*Otherwise:
*
*Download the CLI as fileicon (this link will stay current).
*Make it executable with chmod +x fileicon.
*
*Move it or symlink it to a folder in your $PATH, such as /usr/local/bin (requires sudo).
Here's the usage information; for complete information, refer to the manual:
$ fileicon -h
Set a custom icon for a file or folder:
fileicon set <fileOrFolder> <imageFile>
Remove a custom icon from a file or folder:
fileicon rm <fileOrFolder>
Get a file or folder's custom icon:
fileicon get [-f] <fileOrFolder> [<iconOutputFile>]
Test if a file or folder has a custom icon:
fileicon test <fileOrFolder>
-q ... silence status output
Standard options: --help, --man, --version, --home
A: I have a github project where I create AppleScript "droplets" from [shell/bash, python, perl, ruby, etc.] scripts that take file paths as arguments. I wrote this bash function for changing the icon of an folder (because AppleScript bundles are Folders with a .app extension).
replace_icon(){
droplet="$1"
icon="$2"
if [[ "$icon" =~ ^https?:// ]]; then
curl -sLo /tmp/icon "$icon"
icon=/tmp/icon
fi
rm -rf "$droplet"$'/Icon\r'
sips -i "$icon" >/dev/null
DeRez -only icns "$icon" > /tmp/icns.rsrc
Rez -append /tmp/icns.rsrc -o "$droplet"$'/Icon\r'
SetFile -a C "$droplet"
SetFile -a V "$droplet"$'/Icon\r'
}
Once defined, you call the function with 2 arguments:
replace_icon /path/to/AppleScript.app /path/to/icon.png
or
replace_icon /path/to/AppleScript.app http://i.imgur.com/LmUvWqB.png
As you can see the second argument can be an image on your system, or a URL.
NOTE: That crazy looking $'/Icon\r' thing that I do is because the name of the Icon file ends with a literal carriage return \r. See for yourself with:
find my-applescript.app -maxdepth 1 | less -U
A: Assuming that we have icns-file already. Create temp resource file which points to icns-file:
$ echo "read 'icns' (-16455) \"Icon.icns\";" >> Icon.rsrc
Append the resource file as value of extended attribute "com.apple.ResourceFork" to a file:
$ Rez -a Icon.rsrc -o FileName.ext
Show the icon of the file:
$ SetFile -a C FileName.ext
Append resource file as value of extended attribute "com.apple.ResourceFork" to a magic icon file inside current folder:
$ Rez -a Icon.rsrc -o Icon$'\r'
Show the icon of current folder:
$ SetFile -a C .
Hide the magic icon file inside current folder (press ⇧⌘. to show/hide hidden files in Finder):
$ SetFile -a V Icon$'\r'
Additional details
Icon data is stored as value of extended attribute "com.apple.ResourceFork" (Terminal command "xattr -p com.apple.ResourceFork FileName.ext" prints the value). For a folder there is magic (which is empty and hidden) file Icon$'\r' inside the folder. To extract icon data from extended attribute "com.apple.ResourceFork" into plain text resource file (from which we know correct icns-type identifier "-16455"):
$ DeRez -only icns FileWithIcon.ext > Icon.rsrc
$ DeRez -only icns /Folder/With/Icon/Icon$'\r' > Icon.rsrc
Under macOS 10.13 High Sierra command $ sips -i ImageFile.icns/png/jpg generates error "--addIcon is no longer supported". Switch "-i" means "--addIcon" as extended attribute "com.apple.ResourceFork" onto this file itself using the content of this image file.
A: I almost started a bounty on this, because I didn't manage to change the icon of a folder using @mankoff's answer. But I found a solution.
To change folder's icon you don't point Rez -append tmp.rsrc to the folder but a special Icon\r file inside the folder. If you haven't set a custom icon to the folder before, the file probably will not exist, but Rez creates it on–the–fly. Deleting the Icon\r file will remove the custom icon, so to prevent accidents it is good to be hidden.
These are the modifications to the mankoff's answer:
# Append a resource to the folder you want to icon-ize.
Rez -append tmpicns.rsrc -o $'myfolder/Icon\r'
# Use the resource to set the icon.
SetFile -a C myfolder/
# Hide the Icon\r file from Finder.
SetFile -a V $'myfolder/Icon\r'
A: Another option is to use MacRuby:
/usr/local/bin/macruby -e 'framework "Cocoa";NSWorkspace.sharedWorkspace.setIcon(NSImage.alloc.initWithContentsOfFile("/tmp/a.png"),forFile:"/tmp/file",options:0)'
You can download an installer for MacRuby from http://macruby.org.
A: Strangely enough the best solution seems to be not to use Apple's own tools but the Python code because it has various advantages not being limited by:
*
*output file resolution
(it works till 1024x1024)
*input file format
(tried with ICNS and PNG)
*permissions to install
(define it as a function)
Update
Now (on macOS Sierra) @koiyu’s answer seems to work, so you could use this two-liner to copy the icon from a source folder to your destination folder:
#!/bin/sh
DeRez -only icns $1/Icon$'\r' > icon.rsrc; Rez -a icon.rsrc -o $2/Icon$'\r'
SetFile -a C $2; SetFile -a V $2/Icon$'\r'; rm icon.rsrc
A: In the recent macOS version (10.14), sips -i icon.png will get a --addIcon is no longer supported error.
It also needs Developer Tools installed. This uses the graphic in Icon.png and applies it to file.ext, just like user588's answer:
# Covert Icon.png to tmpicons.icns:
sips -s format icns Icon.png --out tmpicns.icns
# Create temporary resource file which points to tmpicons.icns:
echo "read 'icns' (-16455) \"tmpicns.icns\";" >> tmpicns.rsrc
# append this resource to the file you want to icon-ize.
Rez -a tmpicns.rsrc -o file.ext
# Use the resource to set the icon.
SetFile -a C file.ext
# Clean up
rm tmpicons.icns && rm tmpicns.rsrc
A: Much like the Python solution using PyObjC, it turns out it can be done with just AppleScript (which isn't deprecated in 10.15 Catalina, unlike Python and other scripting languages).
I found an example of how to do this on GitHub here:
set-finder-icon
#!/usr/bin/env osascript
use framework "AppKit"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
# PROPERTY DECLARATIONS:
property this : a reference to current application
property NSWorkspace : a reference to NSWorkspace of this
property NSImage : a reference to NSImage of this
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
# IMPLEMENTATION:
on run argv
set icon to item 1 of argv
set target to item 2 of argv
setIcon to icon for target
end run
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
# HANDLERS:
to setIcon to iconPath for filePath
set sharedWorkspace to NSWorkspace's sharedWorkspace()
set newImage to NSImage's alloc()
set icon to newImage's initWithContentsOfFile:iconPath
set success to sharedWorkspace's setIcon:icon forFile:filePath options:0
end setIcon
AppleScript isn't easy to read, but apparently it's possible to access the Objective-C code to do this through the AppKit framework.
A: In addition to Ruby, here's a Python version:
#!/usr/bin/env python
import Cocoa
import sys
Cocoa.NSWorkspace.sharedWorkspace().setIcon_forFile_options_(Cocoa.NSImage.alloc().initWithContentsOfFile_(sys.argv[1].decode('utf-8')), sys.argv[2].decode('utf-8'), 0) or sys.exit("Unable to set file icon")
./set-image.py image.png myfile
Python that pre-installed in Mac OS already has PyObjC so you don't have to install any packages.
A: There is some kind of a bug (that happen in folders inside de iCloud sync) with the change of icons of "folders" nor files, at last in Catalina: When the Icon change, the UI does not refresh the folder with the new icon when it have an older one. So the second time you set an icon it not refresh all the times. Even if you do it manually with cmd+i and pasting a previously copied image as icon, the iCloud goes crazy with this.
By looking to a workaround, found this little fix (no ideal but works): - this is in JXA Javascript for automation
function makeIcon(theFolder, theFile) {
var img = $.NSImage.alloc.initByReferencingFile( theFile );
var updateUUID = newUUID()+".txt";
terminal("echo -n > "+ sanityzeForBash(theFolder+"/Icon\r") );
terminal("rm "+ sanityzeForBash(theFolder+"/Icon\r") );
writeTextFile(theFolder+"/"+updateUUID, "_");
$.NSWorkspace.sharedWorkspace.setIconForFileOptions(img, theFolder, 0);
delay(1);
terminal("rm "+ sanityzeForBash(theFolder+"/"+updateUUID) );
}
function writeTextFile(fileName, text) {
var file = app.openForAccess(Path(fileName), { writePermission: true })
app.setEof(file, { to: 0 });
app.write( getProperties(text) +"\n\r", { to: file, startingAt: app.getEof(file) })
app.closeAccess(file)
return true;
}
function sanityzeForBash(s) {
return "'"+ s.replace("'","\\'") +"'";
}
function newUUID(){
return ObjC.unwrap($.NSUUID.UUID.UUIDString);
}
function terminal(c) {
var app = Application.currentApplication();
app.includeStandardAdditions = true;
return app.doShellScript(c);
}
The idea of the "trick" is to create a file inside the folder before to change de icon to force the iCloud to sync, then wait 1s to delete the file.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6901",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "71"
} |
Q: How to perform cleanup duties on OS X? For all my Windows PCs I use CCleaner to perform cleanup duties. Is there a similar tool that I can use for OS X to clean up any accumulated crap?
A: There was a not immediately relevant question posted a while ago that actually has answers I think you would be interested in. I answered with my regular maintenance routine (Why is my Macbook Pro getting so slow?). The relevant portion of my answer:
Apple Certified Technicians are your
friends: Third-party system
maintenance software is not. I've been
working with Macs for years and the
one immutable fact that I have learned
is that applications designed to help
maintain the system are more trouble
than they are worth. When all else
fails, take it in because there may be
a hardware problem at this point.
I put my Macs through the wringer every day and I very rarely have problems since I implemented my maintenance routine. Third-party software is not necessary, if not a waste of money.
A: Every once in a while (every 6 - 12 months, or if things start acting weird), check your disk with /Applications/Utilities/DiskUtility.app
Select your hard disk in the left sidebar, then the "Verify Disk" button at the bottom right. If everything is OK, good. If not:
*
*Reboot
*Hold CMD+S at the Chime to boot into Single User Mode
*Run /sbin/fsck -fy # this should fix everything
*Type "reboot".
A: Alex.. please be careful. OS X generally doesn't need maintenance like most Windows installations do. If you just leave it, it will be fine. The only thing I sometimes tell clients who I'm tutoring, is that the maintenance scripts run themselves by default at 3AM. They're not doing anything too serious, log rotations and the like. So if they don't run, I don't think it's the end of the world. But once in a while you may want to leave the computer on all night so they get done.
A: Also, OnyX seems to be the popular choice for those looking for a Mac equivalent to CCleaner.
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/11582/onyx
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6909",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Boot Camp not burning Windows support DVD So, I'm trying to get Boot Camp to work so I can put a partition of Windows 7 on my MacBook. I'm getting to the point where it's downloaded the supporting software and I have to burn it to a DVD. I have blank DVD in the SuperDrive but regardless of how many times I hit 'Burn' nothing happens. Am I doing something wrong?
Also, I'm a complete noob with OS X, so please be very explanatory.
Thanks in advance!
A: Okay, so I think I figured it out. Apparently it's a problem with Boot Camp 3.0.4 that came with the 1.6.6 update. I found a link to the discussion on Apple's forums and I'll post it as soon as I can use the MacBook again (it's installing Windows right now and I'm typing this on an iPad...).
UPDATE
Here's the link to the Apple forum discussion.
A: Is the DVD mounted for writing in the Finder? If it is, the Boot Camp utility can't get a handle on the burn rights (as the Finder has them). Eject the disk, go to the Disk preferences in System Preferences, and make sure the option for blank discs is "ask me every time", then shove the disc back in. It should ask you which app to open; choose "other application...", and an open window will appear. Hold down the Command key and drag the Boot Camp utility icon from the Dock to the open window. (The icon should stay in the dock and appear under the mouse while you drag.) The open window will now have the Boot Camp utility app selected, so press the open button and affirm the "what app to open" dialog. (Note: I'm not on a Mac right now, so any verbiage is approximate.) Then re-try the burn.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How do I unlock my iPhone-4 so I can use it in Mexico with a Mexican carrier? I love my iPhone-4 and I am about to move to Mexico where AT&T and Verizon are not viable carrier options. What is the safest way to unlock my iPhone so I can continue to use my apps (and new ones I may acquire later) with a non-Apple approved carrier?
A: Do you mean to Jailbreak your phone, or to unlock it so you can use it on a different network?
Unlocks currently depend on your firmware version, which you can check by going to settings >> general >> about and looking at the version number. If you can confirm then we could find the right unlock for your phone, supposing it can be unlocked.
A: In the UK SIM lock is removed by the carrier themselves, for example O2 customers can simply request that their iPhone be unlocked online. I have done this with my original, 3GS and iPhone 4 and as such they can all be used on any GSM network and receive official software updates from Apple.
For AT&T iPhones it appears they are not offering a similar service to their customers in the US and you may need to resort to other means to unlock the device.
O2 UK iPhone Unlock: http://shop.o2.co.uk/update/unlockmyiphone.html
AT&T Support: http://www.wireless.att.com/answer-center/main.jsp?t=solutionTab&solutionId=KB82027
A: Go to another store named telcel where they sell phones that's where you're going to get it cut to size and fitted to your iPhone, That's how you do it so you don't have to get any kind of contract.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6912",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: App to video chat between iPod Touch 4 and Android phone? I am looking to do a video chat between an iPod Touch 4 and an Android phone (not sure which version, but less than a year old). Both of these devices have video cameras and microphones, I'm just not sure the easiest way to video chat between the two. Any suggestions?
A: Yahoo! Messenger, Skype or Fring should do.
A: Tango will also work.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6916",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Why has Snow Leopard screwed up my Safari and my desktop's ability to stay organized Ever since I installed snow leopard I get multiple safari crashes per day. And my desktop refuses to stay organized (by date modified)?
A: Sounds like you did an upgrade, perhaps with the help Migration Assistant?
Best way to deal with it? Back up your data, and either
i) create a new account, pulling your data back in, but with a fresh library and settings or, better yet,
ii) reformat, re-install OS and create your account again, from scratch. Pull the data in manually.
Upgrading, and/or migration assistant, often doesn't go well when automated. Just the nature of the beast. If you're not entirely comfortable doing this, get a pro to do it. Trust me.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Laggy Magic Mouse with Macbook Pro I've had my Magic Mouse for about two weeks with a MacBook Pro 13", and I'm starting to notice quite a latency in the movement.
It gets really bad whenever any performance heavy operation is going on, that creates almost a half a second latency. This happens even for small things, like when a web page is being rendered, sometimes even while nothing is happening.
At first I thought batteries might've caused this, even though it was at 50%, so I changed them for new ones, which (subjectively) helped for about two hours, but it's still really laggy.
I also tried using the mouse on different surfaces, again it seems to work a little better on the table than on my mouse pad, but it's a little laggy everywhere.
Is this behavior normal for the Magic Mouse?
edit: I've been using my Macbook with 24" LCD at 1920x1280 resolution. When I plugged out the monitor, it seems that the mouse runs much more smoothly, even when I run applications like Photoshop.
Could the external monitor be causing such performance lag? But on the other hand, when I use it with USB mouse Logitech G5 there is no lag, not even on the 24" ...
A: I've had the same issue, starting with a late release of Snow Leopard, and now with Lion. The mouse works fine for a while and then it gets really laggy. Turning the mouse off (disconnecting bluetooth with the computer) and turning it back on fixes the problem, but it has happened at least a dozen times in the past week or so.
I've reported it as a bug to Apple, but it is hard to reproduce. I also have a MacBook Pro with an external monitor. I'm not sure if that is just coincidence, though.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6925",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Persistent "You got a mail." dialog Last evening my iPhone began to exhibit very odd behavior. Every few minutes (whether awake or asleep) a dialog appears saying that "You got a mail." I've posted a screenshot below. (For those who don't read Japanese the text above "You got a mail." translates as a "A message was received.")
Sometimes I must press dismiss multiple times before the screen disappears and the lock screen is displayed. I have tried in vain to locate an application which is causing these messages. I have also disabled notifications from Facebook, Mail, etc. At present I think that this might be some sort of bug or exploit.
I've restored by iPhone using a recent backup. After the restore, After syncing apps the message remains. I also reset to factory and even without my apps the message remains. It also seems that the message does not appear when my iPhone is in airplane mode.
My question is, has anyone else encountered anything like this message?
A: That looks like a carrier message, sent by SoftBank. I will be pushed to your iPhone when somebody sends a message to your SoftBank address. To turn if off:
Follow these steps to disable incoming notification for E mail (i): In Home Screen, tap Safari, open Bookmarks and tap My SoftBank and tap @. Enter Login ID and Password (sent via SMS). E mail (i) setting page appears. Tap [3] Newly arriving e-mail notification setting, then tap Off.
See more details here.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6926",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Stream All Audio to Speakers I'm looking for a device that will wirelessly stream my computer (13" Macbook Pro) audio to my 5.1 speakers. I've seen that AirPort supports 2.0 streaming of iTunes music, but I'd like support for all audio and surround sound (for games and movies). Does anyone know of a product or software for this?
A: Have you considered Airfoil by Rogue Amoeba? http://www.rogueamoeba.com/airfoil/
A: Check out the WiFi2HiFi app. It can stream audio from any computer program to the iPhone, iPod or iPad:
Use WiFi2HiFi to turn your iPhone into a wireless audio receiver for your stereo system or sound-dock. Combined with the desktop app WiFi2HiFi Station you can listen to whatever audio program is playing on your computer.
Plug your iPod or iPhone into your hi-fi and enjoy your favorite music program, web radio or streaming service in crystal clear stereo quality.
WiFi2HiFi Station acts like an additional audio output on your computer. This allows the application to provide streaming support for all popular audio programs on the Mac and PC.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Chrome and Firefox not remembering session I just switched to the Mac, and I installed Firefox and Chrome. For some reason, I can't get the functionality for opening the tabs and windows from the last session to work either browser.
*
*Mac OS X 10.6.6
*Firefox 3.6.13
*Chrome 8.0.552.237
I have tried making different profiles and reinstalling the browsers but nothing works.
I have looked everywhere and can't come up with a solution. Any help is appreciated.
EDIT: Safari's "Reopen All Windows from Last Session" also doesn't restore last session windows.
EDIT 2: I just noticed that quitting the browser (versus closing it by clicking the x button) and restarting it does resume the last session in every browser.
A: Seeing your comment, this is because when you click the X on a Mac app, you are only closing the window, not the Application itself (like it does in Windows). Therefore you were still in a 'current' session, and that session had no windows.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6948",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iMac will not boot with anything connected via USB I have a 24" iMac running 10.6.6 that will not boot if anything is connected to the usb ports on the back. If they are removed, it boots fine. It has been to the Genius bar once but they did not find anything wrong hardware-wise.
A: Try holding down the Opt key (aka Alt) when you are booting. This should give the option of choosing a boot device. If you see anything in addition to the hard disk then it is probably because one of the USB devices has a mass-storage mode. This might make the Mac try and boot off that instead of the hard disk.
You can also go to Startup Disk in System Preferences to see if anything invalid has been selected by mistake.
A: I had tht once with an earlier version, but it was fixed by unplugging the power cord for an hour or so. I mean really disconnecting, not just leaving it switched off. As you have been to the Genius bar already, seems that this was already the case once... try starting in verse mode with Cmd + v when you hear the startup chime. Perhaps that leads to helpful log output on the screen.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6949",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Are there Greasemonkey scripts for Safari? There's the wonderful Greasemonkey to run user-defined JavaScript on web pages.
Is there such a thing as Greasemonkey for Safari? Or would one instead write a Safari Extension to customize behavior on other web pages? Maybe there's an alternative that runs on AppleScript instead of JavaScript?
A: Another option to run GreaseMonkey scripts is NinjaKit (which is what I use). It's a Safari 5 extension, which means it's just a tad safer than GreaseKit.
A: I use TamperMonkey and it works surprisingly well. It's also a Safari Extension.
I have tried used NinjaKit in the past but it no longer works for me, a lot of scripts simply won't work.
A:
Is there such a thing as Greasemonkey for Safari?
You can use SIMBL and GreaseKit to run most Greasemonkey scripts in Safari, unmodified. Detailed installation instructions are found at this link, repeated here:
*
*Download and install SIMBL
*Quit Safari
*Download GreaseKit
*Drag the GreaseKit.bundle file to ~/Library/Application Support/SIMBL/Plugins. You may need to create this location if it doesn't exit
*Start Safari and you'll see a GreaseKit menu bar item
*Install scripts from http://userscripts.org -- the installation process is a little different from the Firefox approach, but it works.
Or would one instead write a Safari Extension to customize behavior on other web pages? Maybe there's an alternative that runs on AppleScript instead of JavaScript?
The native-to-Safari equivalent of Greasemonkey is AppleScript extensions and plugins. For a nice library of native Safari extensions check out Pimp My Safari.
A: The best place to start is probably going to be here: http://developer.apple.com/devcenter/safari/index.action
I've seen safari extensions whose only behavior was to customize behavior of web sites; just yesterday I saw one that changed the layout of reddit to be more iOS-friendly.
here it is.
A: If you don't want to pay $2 for Tampermonkey, you can try Userscripts, which is free.
Userscripts is simpler, you will have to add your scripts using the extension page instead of installing them from GreasyFork automatically, for example. But otherwise it does the job of CSS and JS customisations as well. See the documentation of Userscripts for more information.
Mind that you won't be able to install extensions, which tamper with input devices, in recent versions of OSX. After the installation from the App Store you will have to enable them in the safe mode - after restarting holding the Shift key down. See an article at Apple about it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6953",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Can I connect to a specific access point by BSSID? Is there any way to get Mac OS X to connect to a specific access point by BSSID? I have a network with the same SSID for multiple access points, and I would sometimes like to specify which specific access point to connect to. Is this something Mac OS X can do natively, or is there a third party tool that can do this?
A: What OS X version do you have?
In older versions this is possible:
/System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/Apple80211.framework/Resources/airport -A'NETWORKNAME' BSSID='00:11:22:33:44:55' password='PASSWORD'
But on OS X 10.6 it doesn't work anymore.
I've searched high and low for a solution for this, but haven't found anything yet. The only solution is going closer to your base station. So that the n -signal is stronger.
A: An updated version of the airport-bssid tool mentioned in the answer by @Lil'Monster works on OS X El Capitan (10.11). A description of the tool is as follows:
Connect to a specific wifi network, based off BSSID (mac address of
Access Point).
usage: ./Build/Release/airport-bssid <ifname> [<bssid>] [<password>]
Connect to specific wireless network on interface, provided
by the access point with and password .
If and are excluded, a scan of wireless networks
from interface is performed and a list of wireless networks
are returned with ssid, bssid, channel, and signal strength details.
A: You can use that tool:
airport-bssid on github
A: Short answer - you can not. All hail Apple!
Long answer - https://blog.actorsfit.com/a?ID=01800-0b706cf1-c87d-4514-b3e6-0bcc10d08eb5
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6958",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "20"
} |
Q: Does the upgrading from Parallels Desktop (for Mac) 5 to 6 means reinstall Windows? I have Parallels Desktop 5 for Mac. Does the upgrade to Parallels Desktop 6 means that I have to reinstall Windows 7 and all the other programs?
A: No, your Windows VM and all the programs installed on it are stored on a virtual hard drive file. Upgrading Parallels won't affect the VM.
A: To extend @Kyle's answer, which is correct by the way, you have to consider the fact that after the upgrade, you might have to re-authorize Windows. I really don't know what Windows is thinking or what Parallels is doing, but I've seen two people who had to re-authorize their Windows 7 Home Premium inside a VM after that upgrade from Parallels 5 to 6.
This was not a problem and is generally performed "automatically", but just have your product key handy just in case.
I haven't personally upgraded to 6 yet (and probably won't). Paying 40 dollars a year to Parallels is more expensive than having Windows dedicated machines…
A: I had not trouble upgrading from 5 to 6 with Win 7 Enterprise.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6959",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Space in Volume Name; can you remove? I have two drives in my machine:
*
*An SSD with the OS on it
*a HDD with all my data.
I have a symlink on the SSD for my home directory on the HDD so /Volumes/SSD/Users/Ross/ points to /Volumes/Macintosh HD/Users/Ross. The Macintosh HD drive is the original boot disk. I'm trying to get rid of the space in the volume name, but when I do I get all kinds of errors. I thought it was a simple as updating the symlink but it doesn't seem to be.
I tried just option-clicking the drive and renaming, which worked but I started to get a lot of application errors. For example, Terminal won't even open. Also, a lot of the Ruby gem installers don't handle spaces well.
A: Yes, you can remove it, but you'd need to Reboot for it to take effect.
I don't recommend renaming it - the vast majority of applications handle the space just fine.
If you have a handful of problematic programs, then just create a soft link to your desired location:
sudo ln -s /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD/Ruby\ Stuff /Ruby
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6961",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Wi-Fi auto-disconnect for iPhone? Is there an app to disconnect an iPhone from a Wi-Fi router at a specific time, other than just turning off Wi-Fi?
A: You may be able to configure the router to only allow WiFi access to the iPhone during certain times of day. This isn't a connection timeout so much as a parental control over the time of day WiFi is allowed. The setting is located in your routers admin interface.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6978",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Alternatives to MetaX? I'm trying to rip some DVDs on my Mac, the boxset for a TV show, using Handbrake. I'd also like to automatically fetch metadata - show name, episode name, etc. But MetaX isn't getting any metadata for me for this particular TV program. Any other Mac apps I can use that do similar?
A: Some that I've found:
*
*iFlicks.app
*Vidalin
*iDentify
I've yet to find one that does everything I want. iFlicks.app comes close, but the feature I want that's missing is the ability to tag chapters. You can always use more than one app, but I don't like the idea of different programs overwriting my metadata.
A: You can try Handbrake. Hands down, the best I've tried.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6982",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: What process is accessing the hard drive? I can hear the hard drive chugging away when it should be idle. Some process is writing/reading from it in semi-random bursts, let's say once every second. Very annoying and wasteful.
I tried activity monitor, but that did not give me enough information and lsof is overwhelming.
Where should I start digging to find out what process is (ab)using the hard drive?
This is on 10.6.6.
A: I like using fs_usage to see whats going on. A lot of information is going to go by quick, but you usually can see which app is doing stuff. For example, when idle, ill see safari going pretty crazy at times, plus spotlight, etc.
A: Other thing you can try is the iotop tool.
Example usage would be
sudo iotop # requires root privileges
And more info can be found here
It give summary over the fs_usage which was mentioned by jmlumpkin.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6984",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: iPhone 4 Battery Leaked if I Don't Charge to 100% Related question here.
I find out that when I charge my iPhone, if I don't charge it to 100% before I pull out the charger, sometimes the battery will leak out very fast.
The leak manifested in these ways:
*
*From the iPhone setting, I can see that the usage time since last full recharge is the same as the time now minus the time I pull out the charger. This means that the phone is effectively being in used right after I stop charging it, even though there is no one using it.
*The iPhone battery decreases at the rate of 10% per hour, much more higher than the normal idle decreasing rate.
*If I restart my phone, the battery % will still remain the same. So this means that the battery loss is for real.
*If I restart my phone, the leak stops. The battery now decreases at normal idle rate ( which is about 2-4% in 8 hours time)
This problem is intermittent, and I can't reproduce it for sure but it happens from time to time.
Any idea how to fix this?
A: This sounds like it could be an issue with the your battery's fuel guage. Lithium Ion batteries have a problem with the meter that detects how much charge is left in your device. If you don't full cycle the phone every 30 days, the meter will get worse and worse.
Full cycling involves:
*
*Charge the phone to 100%
*Do not charge your phone again until all the battery is depleted (i.e. until the phone dies on it's own).
This is recommended both by Apple:
Be sure to go through at least one charge cycle per month (charging the battery to 100% and then completely running it down).
... and by Battery University:
Batteries with fuel gauge (laptops) should be calibrated by applying a deliberate full discharge once every 30 charges. Running the pack down in the equipment does this. If ignored, the fuel gauge will become increasingly less accurate and in some cases cut off the device prematurely.
A: Sine the problem doesn't persist after booting the phone, it points to one of your apps being the problem.
I'd imagine something that's using your location all the time or using heavy WiFi connection etc.
A list of your apps when this problem occurs would be helpfull.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6985",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I set the sender/reply-to address in iOS mail for an ActiveSync account? I have a Google Apps account for mail.example.com, but actually use addresses @example.com (e.g. tony@example.com, whereas the account is tony@mail.example.com). This isn't ideal, but I'm stuck with it for now.
In iOS mail I have this account setup as an Exchange account (i.e. not IMAP), which means that there isn't much in the way of settings. Email I send from this account comes from tony@mail.example.com, which works, but I would prefer tony@example.com (this already works fine on the Desktop/browser).
Is it possible to change the sender/from/reply-to header in this situation?
(I wasn't sure whether this was an iOS mail issue and so should be asked here, or a Google apps issue and so should be asked on webapps.se, or if it's just not possible. Feel free to bounce me if appropriate!)
A: Unfortunately, no; it's not possible to specify a "Send From" address with an Exchange ActiveSync account. An Exchange Activesync account will always use the primary email address associated with it as the address the message is sent from.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6986",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to reduce photos in iPhoto while keeping metadata? I got carried away taking high-res and RAW photos, and now my iPhoto Library is just too big. Most of these photos aren't good enough to take up that much space, but they're still good enough to keep. How can I reduce the sizes of my photos while maintaining iPhoto metadata (e.g., albums, rating, location) for them?
Extra props if:
*
*I can do it as a batch process.
*I can exclude certain photos from the reduction (e.g., only reduce photos without 5 stars).
*It gracefully handles the relationship between the modified and original photos.
A: Short Answer, Automator:
Long Answer: iPhoto cannot create a smart album based upon File Size, so you'll have to either group them by other means or manually create an Album with the offending photos (the big ones). Automator, on the other hand, is perfectly capable of finding iPhoto images by size (and by Rating stars).
The first thing you have to decide is: Do I want to scale my images down? Do I want to make them JPG instead of whatever format they have? Do I want to do both for maximum effect? That is, you have to decide what's the best optimization for your photos that has a balance between quality/size.
Each of those have consequences: if you don't save a copy of the original photo, and the resulting quality is not something you like, there's no turn back (unless you have a TimeMachine or similar backup of course).
In any case, Launch Automator, create a new "Workflow" and add the following actions:
NOTE: I've removed the "Make copy" actions that Automator asks you to place by default when an operation will "affect" files, but leave those to "experiment" so you don't alter
your original images, at least until you're satisfied with the results.
I suggest you try with a small set of images before going Coo-Coo with the whole Library. As in create a small album with some of the "big" images and try from there. You don't want to wreck your iPhoto library…
This should preserve all the metadata and original photo, while making a Batch adjustment.
If you have programs like Pixelmator or Acorn, you will have more automator stuff there. The more the merrier.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6987",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: What exactly is the difference between Badges, Alerts, and Sounds? I specifically want to know what the difference is between badges and alerts in the Notifications options in the iPhone 4.
Could you provide screenshots of each case?
A: Badges are the little numbered icons, like the one that appears on the Mail and SMS apps when you have new messages.
Alerts are popup messages like this:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6989",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Is it possible to disable spellcheck for Coda but leave it enabled for other applications? I use Coda as web editor, and I usually have to mix Italian and English nouns and phrases. I don't want spellcheck on (as I use programming-related words such as uid and pid), so I'd like to deactivate it.
At the same time, though, I'd like to have it enabled everywhere else on my computer.
It appears that Mac OS X doesn't have a way to enable spellcheck for some applications but disable it for others.
Is this possible?
A: Just right click in the working tab, select Spelling and uncheck the option "Check Spelling While Typing"
A: I don't know if it's possible (I doubt it), but here's a workaround: set a keystroke for the spellcheck menu item in System Preferences so you can easily turn it off or on.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6993",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Any way to get Time Machine to backup to Amazon Simple Storage Solution? Just curious if it is at all possible to have Time Machine backup to the 'cloud' using Amazon Simple Storage Solution. I've setup Time Machine to work over the network before to unsupported volumes (NTFS) but wasn't sure if this is possible. Anyone ever tried?
A: If you have an extra ec2 instance, you could use netatalk and s3ql. It is a native time machine solution and works in Lion too. Your backups will be compressed and deduplicated.
From Ubuntu:
Install S3QL (1.11.1) and netatalk (2.2.1)
sudo add-apt-repository ppa:nikratio/s3ql
sudo aptitude update
sudo aptitude upgrade
sudo aptitude install s3ql netatalk
Create S3QL authfile
mkdir ~/.s3ql
vi ~/.s3ql/authinfo2
Edit S3QL authfile as follows:
[s3]
storage-url: s3://
backend-login: $AWSKey
backend-password: $AWSSecretKey
Set permissions on authfile
chmod 600 ~/.s3ql/authinfo2
Create S3QL filesystem
sudo mkfs.s3ql s3://$bucketName
Mount S3QL filesystem
sudo mkdir /mnt/$bucketName
sudo mount.s3ql --allow-other --nfs --compress lzma s3://$bucketName /mnt/$bucketName
Configure netatalk
sudo vi /etc/netatalk/AppleVolumes.default
Edit the bottom of AppleVolumes.default to appear as below:
(Note: tm is also added to :DEFAULT: options. Volsizelimit is in MiB#
:DEFAULT: options:upriv,usedots,tm
/mnt/$bucketName "S3 Backups" volsizelimit:238418.58
Create User for backup
sudo useradd $username
sudo passwd $username
Set ownership of the backup drive to the backup user
sudo chown $username /mnt/$bucketName
Then select Go -> Connect to Server -> and enter the server IP or hostname from the finder. Make sure you have port 548 open!
A: Dolly Drive is newly-announced software that lets you do TimeMachine backups to "cloud storage". Their docs say the space is their own cloud-based storage space, not S3, so that might be sticking point. But other than that it's pretty much in line with what you're after.
In addition to doing the TimeMachine -> cloud bridge, they also help you duplicate your data to a local drive so you can do fast restores without having to wait for delivery of an cloud -> hard drive dump of your data.
Looks promising. I'm lukewarm on the pricing.
A: There is a FUSE-based project calles s3fs that claims to be able to mount an Amazon S3 bucket as a local volume. Since Time Machine seems to be able to use any locally available volumes as a target, this should work. I was not able to test this, however.
A: A different approach would be to use a local Time Machine backup and then use something like Arq to move it to the cloud (automatically). You get the benefit of local storage + cloud backup.
A: If you can get Time Machine to recognize a FUSE-mounted filesystem, then s3backer should work.
I have never done this but would be interested to hear if anyone gets it to work (specifically how they got Time Machine to recognize the mount).
See also this wiki page.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6996",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Why can my laptop connect yet not my iPad/iPod Touch/iPhone? I just moved into a place with free internet.
Using Wi-Fi, I can connect with my laptop but not my iPad or iPhone. I can access the router (Netgear WGR614v9), the router setup page, and see the admin portion of it.
The SSID is broadcasting (I can see it with my laptop) but it doesn't show up on the list. I tried manually typing in the SSID and joining but my iDevices were unable to connect.
What's wrong?
A: There are several incompatible WiFi standards such as 802.11a, 802.11b, 802.11g and 802.11n. In some cases, manufacturers implemented draft standards before they were ratified and this led to incomptibilities.
Some iDevices do not support 802.11n - so it may be that your WiFi access point (probably part of your router) is configured to use a standard that is not supported by your iDevices. You can configure your WiFi access point (router) to use a standard that you know your iDevices support.
Also some devices are simply better at picking up signals - it depends on product design and aerial size. If your iDevice can get a signal nearer the Wifi access point, you'll know that this is the probable cause.
Apple have some guidance for iPad users experiencing WiFi problems.
A: As per Red's suggestion and the fact that you say you can see the router's admin page, you could try to change the broadcast an 802.11b signal which may provide better compatibility with the iphone/ipad devices you have.
Note that this would reduce the theoretical speed limit down to 54Mbits/s but virtually any internet services in the US (Cable/DSL) are well below this so you won't throttle internet performance.
Also what is the signal strength that the laptop shows? Typically a laptop will have better signal acquisition than an iphone/ipad.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7000",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "-1"
} |
Q: Can I buy an iPhone 4 in another country? I want to know if I buy a iPhone 4 in another country if I take it home to Denmark where I live, can I then reinstall it so it uses the Danish keyboard and the iPhone is on Danish?
A: Yes, you can buy a SIM-lock free iPhone 4, such as the ones that get sold in the UK or in Belgium and use them anywhere else in the World where iPhones are supported by local providers.
Be aware that the UK phone ships with a different electrical plug.
Language settings can be set from within the iOS preferences. I have mine running with multiple different keyboard layouts; and you can also set the main language of the device, just as you can set the language of any MacOS device to any installed language (usually quite a few). The nice thing is, that usually all apps also respect that language choice if they provide translations.
A: iOS devices (and I believe Macs too) come with all supported languages, you just need to choose Danish. You will also be able to choose Danish keyboard, on iOS it is very easy to enable more than one international keyboard and switch between them if you want to do that.
Assuming you are buying an unlocked iPhone 4 all you will need to make sure is that you have a micro sim, or cut down your existing sim card.
A: I can turn on the Danish keyboard and Danish language options on my US iPod touch, so yes. Whether a Danish carrier will support it (you'll need to get an unlocked phone or you'll have to manually unlock it).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7006",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iPhone 4 car kit for sound and video recording, and charging I need a kit that I can mount in my car on the dashboard where I can do the following with my iPhone 4G:
*
*Use GPS
*Record Video from the forward facing camera (toward me) or the rear facing camera (away from me / through the front windshield)
*Make phone calls hands free (using the speaker phone or the headphones kit that comes with the iPhone or with a Casette Adapter for iPhone)
Is there a mount that I can use for this?
A: Xtand Go iPhone Car Mount
http://www.xtand.net/xtandgo.html
A: Or if you'd like to save some money, check this search query at DealExtreme: iPhone dash mount - there is a huge range, and for great prices too.
I've purchased plenty of things from them before, and it's all been surprisingly good stuff, especially considering the price.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7010",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Connect to Ubuntu machine on local network using Screen Sharing, screen doesn't update I'm trying to connect to my Ubuntu desktop from my Mac laptop (10.6.6). The linux machine shows up fine in my network list, and when I connect to it, Screen Sharing prompts me for a password (which is how I have the Ubuntu machine configured).
I finish connected and I'm presented with a view of the desktop in Ubuntu. From the laptop it appears I can't select or do anything. As it turns out, the mouse interaction is working. Its just that the the view itself is frozen. I verified this by having the machines side-by-side. The mouse events are being and as a result I can't manipulate the contents of the Ubuntu screen; its just that the screen updates either aren't being sent back to the laptop or they are but Screen Sharing isn't updating.
Anyone else run into issues connecting to Ubuntu machines from Screen Sharing? It seems like I have it 99% the way there, just needing to resolve the refresh issue.
A: Have you tried opening the Screen Sharing app (/System/Library/CoreServices/) and typing in the vnc:// address to the Ubuntu machine?
You can also try changing the Screen Sharing prefs. With the Screen Sharing app open, go to Screen Sharing -> Preferences and changing settings to the ones that say faster?
Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7016",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Connection timeout I have a MacBook Pro 13" and my wifi connection never works properly. I know there are no problems either in the MacBook or in the router since:
*
*Another computer can connect to my router easily
*I connected my MacBook to other routers
My router is a Linksys WRT160NL that seems to work properly since also my iPhone can connect to it.
When I go to the Airport icon on the top-right of the screen, I can see my router.
I click on it and wait. A dialog box appears asking me for the password. I type it in (I'm sure I'm typing it right and that it is a WPA password, I guess it is the same of WPA-Personal), the progress bar (the circle one) keeps rotating for about 5 seconds then stops and got replaced by an Annoying-useless-freaking message saying:
Connection Timeout
I googled about this problem. I found some useless thread about this exact problem but they were so old that they date back to the first appearance of Leopard. The others say that this bug was fixed (when obviously it is not) thousands of versions ago.
What should I do to fix this?
A: There are LOTS of reasons for this not to work properly.
First of all - don't rule out the router or the Macbook yet. They are both suspect until ruled out methodically. And we're far from ruling either of them out. :)
Are you sure it's WPA-Personal? It could be WPA2. Check the router settings themselves, by plugging in to the router, and connecting to its web interface. Check again. Check the password. Check if it's AES or TKIP. Once you're sure you know as much about the router and its wireless config as possible, try again, after unplugging your wired connection to it.
In System Preferences, remove the network if it's remembered. You'll need to go to Network, Airport, Advanced, and then find it in the list, and hit the little minus. Now try connecting. I've seen networks that were set to WPA2 come up as WPA-Personal, since the laptop sometimes has trouble figuring it out.
For these, I've had to set them up manually, by going into the system preferences, network, airport, advanced. Add a new network (plus at the bottom), put in the name EXACTLY, and the password, and WPA2-Personal.
Failing this, check if your router's using a "key index". If the index or key index is NOT set to 1, the macbook will fail to connect. I've never found a way to force a Mac to use a different key index, and indeed some routers allow you to choose which index you'd like to use. If the router's key index is not set to 1, your macbook will not be able to connect, period.
Failing that, reset the router and set it up again, using WEP rather than WPA/WPA2. Can it connect now?
Try a different Macbook, or try a PC. Can it connect?
Answer these questions in as much detail and I can help you more. Don't give up.
A: Switching the channels fixed this problem for me.
A: One solution that works fine is this one http://osxdaily.com/2011/11/06/lion-wi-fi-problems-solution-mac
Short story : Add a new location under the wifi network preferences
A: I had the same problem for my iMac when upgrading to Moutain Lion. I could not connect to the internet anymore. What I finally did is change the channel in your router. If too many people are on the same channel you can get this connection timeout issue. You should have multiple channels you can choose from in your router.
Good luck!
A: Funny I had the same problem after updating to my OSX (Macbook Pro 13") and kept having the same issues over and over again to no luck... then I plugged in my computer to the router via CAT5 cable... connected to the net.... and tried the wifi again... and it worked. Weird.
| {
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} |
Q: What's triggering my Finder's CPU binges? A few times a week, the Finder on my Macbook shoots up to around 100% CPU use, and the fans start blasting.
I've done everything I can think of - repaired permissions, rebooted, trashed preferences, turned off "show preview" in view options, audited the Activity Monitor for unnecessary processes, scoured the Console for errors, restarted the Finder, and a lot more. Eventually it subsides, and I assume that the source of the error was the last thing I changed.
But it's doing it again now, and I am at a loss. I wish there was a way to "get inside the Finder's head" and see what it's doing. I've tried running a sample of the Finder process in Activity Monitor, but honestly I don't know what it's doing, much less how to interpret the output.
That's really my hope: that someone can explain a better way to investigate CPU spikes like this, not just in the Finder, but any runaway process. There are certainly plenty of details that might help you all diagnose this specific case, but before I spew out even more probably-irrelevant information, I thought I'd see if anyone has general tips for diagnosing this sort of thing.
This is my first Stack-anything post btw, so please be gentle. Thanks in advance!
A:
"I wish there was a way to "get inside the Finder's head" and see what it's doing. I've tried running a sample of the Finder process in Activity Monitor, but honestly I don't know what it's doing, much less how to interpret the output."
Taking a sample in Activity Monitor is exactly that: getting inside the Finder's head to see what it's doing. While it may seem like greek, I or others here can interpret it for you. Just post it, or make it available for download or viewing (as they tend to be pretty big).
What version of OS X are you using? In OS X 10.5.x and prior, I believe multimedia content ran within the Finder itself, rather than delegating it off to an agent/helper type process, so then the CPU usage may appear higher. For example, previewing a QuickTime movie might make the 10.5.x-and-earlier Finder spike to 60% CPU, while in 10.6 it might be split to something like 10% CPU for the Finder, 30% CPU to the QTKitHelper background process.
Otherwise, I've sometimes seen the code the Finder uses to calculate the size of the contents of a folder cause temporary CPU spikes. (You'll notice something like TSomething::HFSSizerSomething in the stack trace of a sample). Usually it seems insistent on finishing its calculation even if the view you had open that warranted the calculation has since been closed.
In any case, seeing the sample should help pinpoint the issue along with knowing what context led up to the spike. It'll be easier to explain what taking a sample is doing once we have it in front of us to look at.
A: You have DTrace available.
man -k DTrace
Those tools, plus fs_usage -f filesys should give you the answer.
A: Change the finder > preferences > General "New Finder Window Show" option to anything but "All my files". This helps a lot.
A: Good advice so far. I'll share some experience I had with a Powerbook back in Tiger (but since Leopard also has a FatFinder process, this issue would occur in 10.5 too).
I remember having an AVI in a folder. The format was a weird format, not a simple Quicktime movie or anything; back then cellphone cameras were bad and used the worst possible codecs ever created. So every time I went to that "folder" with Finder, it will hang, because it was trying to "read" the file and the codec was bad.
Eventually, either by luck or because I forgot about it (or deleted it), this stopped happening. But it took me a while to figure out what it was. I remember this exact behavior happening to me on Leopard with a "badly" formatted video too. Quicklook would hang the finder with that piece of media.
I had to open it with VLC to "repair" it. And then it mysteriously started working again.
I suggest you try to keep an eye of your usage patterns before the CPU spike to see if there's something in common. A file type, a specific folder, a specific time, etc.
At the time of the writing, I don't know your OS X version (10.x?) so this information may be slightly outdated if you are running Snow Leopard.
Additionally, follow the advice of trying to output fs_usage, top, and similar tools. It may give us a better hint. Output from Console.app (/Applications/Utilities) could throw some light to the issue.
A: I've found only two tools to be broadly helpful in solving high CPU usage issues on one isolated program. Yes, activity monitor can sample and tell you where it's hung up / processing - but I find Instruments to be better suited to really getting at the nub of the issue if fs_usage can't. DTrace is awesome - I just have never needed to spend the time learning it - Instruments works well enough and the learning curve for me was much lower.
*
*fs_usage and grep to narrow down what files are being accessed often lets me know what/where the issues lie so I can take action to remedy / tune it.
*Instruments app - Xcode 3 is provided to free developers or Xcode 4 (purchased in the Mac App Store or as a paid developer). Think of this like sample/activity monitor on steroids - you can poke around at things like memory allocation / leaks and get a much borader view of what's happening inside a slow process as it's running.
A: I'd been plagued by high Finder CPU usage for a few weeks (80-100%). Eventually I discovered that it was due to my setting Finder to calculate all the sizes in a folder. This option isn't enabled by default, but it's worth checking just in case
*
*Open Finder
*From the menu bar, select View -> Show View Options
*Make sure "Calculate All Sizes" is unchecked
*Click "Use as Defaults"
Once I did this I saw my Finder CPU usage drop immediately to 0%.
A: I'm on a MacBook, OSX 10.6.8. I too have been experiencing innumerable "Finder CPU binges," accompanied by the fan. Console reports all sorts of puzzling complaints, often multiply repeated [other situations also cause the fan to spin, and Console shows multi-repeat complaints].
I recently discovered that turning off my Airport quiets Finder right down. Not a very useful cure, as right now I have Airport on so I can be here, and yes, Activity Monitor shows Finder consuming upwards of 100% CPU [whatever that might be —?]
| {
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} |
Q: How can I view the items in the Spotlight cache? I'd like to view the data spotlight has imported. Is this possible?
EDIT: For example I can do this:
mdutil -svvv /Volumes/h8rdrive
and find out this volume was indexed.
I'd kind of like to find out what's not indexed though.
A: mdfind is your friend here.
If you simply wanted a list of every file in your spotlight index you could do:
mdfind /
You can also get it to provide a count of the files.
mdfind -count /
On my system this returns 224353 which is a good reason not to run the first command!
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Q: How do I access Windows PCs on the network? How can I access Windows PCs from my Mac, and vice-versa, on the same network. I need to transfer files back and forth, and I can't seem to figure out how to do it. I poked around the settings, added the MacBook to the workgroup and all, but the computers still can't see each other. Right now I'm using a USB HDD to shuffle files, but that is far from ideal...
A: Sharing must be enabled. To see the Mac from your PC's, enable File Sharing (System Preferences/Sharing/File Sharing). You will need to take the additional step of enabling Samba sharing, since PC's don't use Apple's File sharing Protocol (AFP). Do this by then clicking on options, and make sure "Share files and folders using SMB (Windows)" is checked. Turn it on for whichever accounts you wish to authorize.
In order to see PC shares from your Mac, the PC's must be on the same network, with sharing enabled. Share a folder or something. Is it XP, Vista, 7? If it's XP, disable Simple File Sharing. Do so by opening a folder, going to Tools->Options, and find it at the bottom of View. Then right-click a folder, go to Sharing and Security, and enable sharing.
If it still doesn't show up, you may have a network/firewall issue, and it warrants further help.. but try that to get you started.
A: Harv's answer is spot on for getting Samba sharing enabled. I am contributing my personal experience with this particular issue.
I am able to get sharing to work by setting the IP explicitly for the machine I wanted to connect to with Connect to Server via Finder. For instance, smb://192.168.0.100/Shared. This worked well enough for my needs.
On the other hand, I was able to see the Mac in the Network view on the Windows machine and access its shares. Just for whatever reason the Mac can't see any other devices on the network via Network in Finder.
A: If the files are < 2.25 GB, an alternative with almost zero setup effort would be to use DropBox. If you are feeling friendly and want 250 MB extra, you can use this link.
When DropBox detects both computers are on the same local network, it will transfer directly between them, not requiring routing the files through their server (although the files will eventually end up there).
| {
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} |
Q: Is it possible to mount SharePoint as a volume in 10.6? Background
My office uses:
*
*Microsoft SharePoint to store and version our documents
*Microsoft Office, with Microsoft Document Connection to connect to the SharePoint site.
Question 1
Can Finder connect to a SharePoint server?
Question 2
Can MacFUSE be extended to mount a SharePoint path as a volume in Mac OS X?
A: System-managed WebDAV connections to SharePoint
Yes, connections are possible. For a volume mounted in this way, the file system type is:
*
*webdav
I use Finder — in Snow Leopard and in two other versions of the system — with SharePoint.
To connect
In the Connect to Server window of Finder, use the same URL as you would use in Microsoft Document Connection.
An underlying problem with the Microsoft service
Information about the characters that you cannot use in sites, folders, and files in SharePoint
… cannot start a file name with the period character. …
Apps with compatibility issues
A shortlist:
*
*Microsoft Office Excel, PowerPoint and Word 2011 (Service Pack 2) — all attempts to save will fail, expect to see error messages that are misleading
*Apple Finder — some attempts to copy or move to SharePoint may fail.
My answer to Ask Different question Why are dot underscore ._ files created, and how can I avoid them? notes:
*
*requirements of Microsoft Office 2011, when used with a file system such as webdav, are not met by SharePoint.
When SharePoint does not recognise that a user of PowerPoint or Word with webdav has opened a file, there's risk of dataloss — two or more users overwriting each other's work, with no warning before or after the loss. I can't reproduce this problem when NeoOffice is used to open such files.
Excel with webdav seems to always open .xlsx spreadsheets read-only. I can't reproduce this problem when NeoOffice is used to open such files.
(Side note: without file system type webdav, Microsoft Document Connection 14.2.0 (120402) causes dataloss without warning, of extended attributes such as Spotlight comments.)
More about Finder
With webdav, for files and folders that are already on the SharePoint server:
*
*Finder seems to be a first class app for renaming, moving or removing items.
Apps that are more compatible
Another shortlist:
*
*where Microsoft Office applications fail, NeoOffice and LibreOffice succeed.
Input/output errors affecting files saved in Microsoft formats
If an attempt to open an Office Open XML file (.docx, .pptx, .xlsx etc.) fails with an input/output error:
*
*use Microsoft Document Connection to initiate an edit
*save a trivial change to the file, close the window of the app that you used for edition
*if necessary, quit the app that you used for edition.
Those two or three steps seem to resolve, or work around, the error.
(If I discover the exact cause of those types of input/output error, I'll either add to this answer or link to a question elsewhere. Early indications are that they occur only after a Microsoft Office app has failed to save with webdav.)
A: I'm entering this away from Windows world, but if memory serves the URL you are getting from Sharepoint is probably something like \my.sharepoint.somewhere\some\path\to\stuff
You need to convert that into something more portable.
Go into Finder, and on the "Go" menu choose "Connect to server..."
Enter "smb://my.sharepoint.somewhere/some/path/to/stuff"
You could also try clicking the "Browse" button and as long as the Sharepoint share is being advertised on the local LAN you should be able to locate the server and browse it's shared folders.
There are a couple of things to be aware of.
1) Make sure you can resolve the "my.sharepoint.somwhere" name to an IP address. (Use the Lookup option in Network Utility to confirm this.)
2) Your Mac may need to be a member of the Windows domain to be able to connect. Sorry - it's been a while and I cannot remember if this is a requirement with Sharepoint.
Hope that helps!
A: I'd be curious if you get this working. I can connect to our SharePoint 2010 server via the Finder (Snow Leopard 10.6.6), but any files copied to the share fail with a -36 error. The file appears on the share, but has 0 bytes. Copying with the command line works fine.
fwiw, I'm using https://my.sharepoint.school.edu/personal/username/ in Go > Connect to Server…
Using Transmit works, other linux and Windows clients work, but Finder and apps in Microsoft Office have problems.
See http://openradar.appspot.com/radar?id=809401
Update:
After some more detective work, I think I've found a cause of some problems: SharePoint has filename restrictions that conflict with the way the system stores extended attributes or resource forks on file systems that lack support for those things.
Restrictions in SharePoint include: disallowing filenames that begin or end with a period. See http://support.microsoft.com/kb/905231 for the full set of restrictions.
When using Finder to copy a file (example: foo) to a SharePoint WebDAV share, the system may require a counterpart (example: ._foo) during or after the write. Disallowance will cause a write operation to fail.
This also explains why third-party WebDAV clients such as Cyberduck and Transmit appear more compatible — with some types of connection, they lose metadata.
For a volume mounted by Transmit with a WebDAV HTTPS connection to SharePoint, the file system type is not webdav, it's:
*
*transmitdiskfs
Unless the Finder stops the ._filename stuff when writing to webdav shares, or SharePoint starts accepting periods at the beginning of filenames, I don't think you'll be able to reliably use Finder with SharePoint WebDAV shares.
A: wdfs (with FUSE) for a WebDAV connection to SharePoint
MacFUSE is outdated. Use a successor such as FUSE for OS X.
Test environments
I tested the following combination:
*
*Finder in OS X
*wdfs 1.4.2, which requires FUSE and neon
*FUSE for OS X 2.3.9
*neon 0.29.6, Revision 1, installed using MacPorts 2.0.4.
For a volume mounted in this way, the file system type is:
*
*osxfusefs
First a simple wdfs command, without the volname option of FUSE for OS X.
Then attempting to work around error -43 (see below), a similar wdfs command with a volname option.
Results, in brief
Finder appears to copy and move some types of file to SharePoint without error. The following types of file seem OK:
*
*.docx
*.sh
*.txt
*.zip
Finder copy of wdfs-1.4.2.tar appeared to succeed but:
*
*the result was zero bytes
*maybe .tar files are unacceptable to SharePoint (consider the silent loss of some types of metadata; maybe some types of data are rejected in an equally lossy way)
*I don't plan further investigation of the reasons for this exception.
An extended attribute of a file (tested: Spotlight comments) may appear to be preserved following the copy to SharePoint, but you'll find the attribute missing when the volume is next mounted.
Dates of creation, modification and last opening appear wrong (reasons for this are known, but beyond the scope of this answer). For the same files, dates will appear proper with a system-managed WebDAV connection.
Folders
SharePoint will accept, from Finder, a copy or move of folder that is without a .DS_Store (Desktop Services Store) file.
More generally, attempts to copy or move folders may fail with errors such as:
*
*-43
*-36 — when some data in .DS_Store can’t be read or written.
Whether SharePoint bars comparable Thumbs.db files from Windows clients, I don't know.
Microsoft Office 2011
As expected:
*
*these Microsoft applications can not save to a volume mounted in this way; beware of dataloss and zero byte Word Work File… .tmp debris
*where Word 2011 fails, LibreOffice succeeds, and so on.
A: Transmit WebDAV HTTPS connection to SharePoint
Panic Transmit
For a volume mounted in this way, the file system type is:
*
*transmitdiskfs
Conflicts
Whilst transmitdiskfs is used, it may be impossible to use FUSE-oriented file systems:
*
*I find that wdfs becomes unusable
*I find that Wuala can no longer mount a volume
*SOLVED??? Re: [OSXFUSE] Truecrypt 7.1a provided OSXFUSE gives error OSXFUSE file system is not available (71) (April 2012) suggests that TrueCrypt becomes unusable
*and so on.
Similarly: where file system type osxfusefs is used (for any purpose, not just wdfs), you may find that the kernel:
fails to load kext com.panic.TransmitDisk.transmitdiskfs (error 0xdc008017).
A: We're experiencing the same issue with 0 byte files. I've read that Finder may not be able to support HTTPS natively, even though support behind the scenes in Mac OSX is already there...
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} |
Q: iPhone 3g (iOS 3.1) screen rotation problem One evening, the screen of my iPhone 3g would no longer rotate. It was working fine that morning.
I haven't updated or installed any applications.
A: The process in charge of reading the accelerometer may be having troubles. I suggest you hold on your power/suspend button for 5 secs and then completely turn off your iPhone. After the phone has been turned off, press the power button again to start it (this will perform a "cold boot" of the phone). That's the equivalent of completely powering off a computer.
If the problem persists after the reboot, then you might have to restore your phone from a backup using iTunes.
Please provide more information or use the search tool in the upper right corner of the website to find similar answers on how to restore an iPhone from a Backup.
| {
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Q: New harddrive, cannot sync my iPad I just got a new hard drive and I want to sync all my iPad stuff back into my iTunes but it's just asking to erase the iPad. I just want all my books and stuff to be back in my iTunes.
A: As I referred to in the comment:
*
*Right/(Control)-Click on iOS device in sidebar of iTunes.
*Select Transfer Purchases
This copies over everything you purchased using the iTMS, App store, and iBooks.
For all content you put on the device that you purchased/received elsewhere, the process is a bit more complicated. Here are some suggestions:
*
*Right/(Control)-Click on iOS device in sidebar of iTunes and select Backup. These at least gives you a place you can quickly fall back on.
*If the computer in-question is a Mac, I can't recommend Podworks enough.
*If Windows... well I haven't tried any, but found this thread on SuperUser.
Hope this is enough to get you going. Best of luck!
| {
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Q: Why am I asked for a credit card number to download a free app? I want to download free app in my iPod touch device and i have the following doubts.
Kindly resolve me doubts.
*
*when i try to download it asks my credit card security number.
*since i am trying to download free app , why do i need to provide my credit card security code?
*Will i be debited for downloading the free app from app store?
I cant able to find any information regarding this on apple.
Please provide me some references about this from apple and please resolve my doubts.
Thanks a lot.
| {
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Q: How do you change an iPad back from Korean to English? How do you change back an iPad from Korean to English?
A: Here is a link that shows step by step with images:
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Q: External Disk Capacity for Time Machine I have a 500 GB hard drive in my iMac, and I am planning to buy a new external hard drive to use for Time Machine. I don't know if Time Machine synchronizes, or something else.
What size external drive should I get for Time Machine?
A: The Time Machine drive should be equal to or larger than the drive that it backs up. TM images the drive completely, then saves incremental changes. Time Machine saves the hourly backups for the past 24 hours, daily backups for the past month, and weekly backups for everything older than a month.
If your internal is 500GB with 100GB free (using 400GB), and your TM is 500GB, then you will get a full image, and then some amount of history (filling up the remaining 100GB of the TM disk). The history length depends on your use habits.
*
*Change a few small files occasionally? Lots of history.
*Change lots of big files a lot? Then the 100GB free will save a few hours or days.
If you have a bigger TM, you will have a longer history to browse.
I personally have a mostly full internal, an equal sized TM, and change files quite often, and find that I usually have a few months of history. Plenty of time to restore a file I accidentally delete.
A: There isn't much to add over the previous answers, but I would mix them a bit.
Your Time Machine drive should be at least as large as the internal one. I've read somewhere a recomendation of it being 1.5 to 2 times the internal drive, but that actually depends on how you use your machine. If you deal with lots of small files, 1.5 will probably do. If you deal with video, and keep them in your internal drive, at least 2 times the internal storage.
Remember that Time Machine keeps a copy of each version of any file changed, so if you change the metatags of a 1.5 GB video file, you will get 2 copies in your TM storage. If you make lots of individual small changes to your music files, they will be stored as different backups as well.
Also, I agree that you should by the largest drive you can afford, and resist the temptation of partitioning it when you see the unused empty storage. I originally had a 250 GB internal drive and a 500 GB TM drive that was ok. I bought a 1.5 GB external drive and moved my backup there. Then I upgraded my internal storage to 500 GB and had to increase my TM storage to 750 GB. Then I found that eventough OS X allows me to change the size of a partition, it isn't able to move the start of a partition. My TM partition was the last one, so I had to use Linux to do that, and since it was a large backup partition I didn't have available storage to backup it. Quite a bit of cold sweating, but everything went ok. I just would avoid repeating that.
A: Time Machine keeps copies of everything on your hard drive, and all revisions. It doesn't keep multiple copies of the same file when it's not been changed. I'd suggest you want a disk with around twice the capacity of the disk space used on your Mac -- so if you're using 300GB of the 500GB on your iMac, you'll want around 600GB for Time Machine. That will allow you to keep a reasonable amount of history of file changes. But it depends on how many changes you're making to your files.
A: Just get the largest within your budget, that way you can migrate to a larger internal HDD if you need in the future as well. Also the larger the HDD, the more version of history it can store. And more space is never wasted. :)
| {
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Q: iPhone 4 camera capabilities to read QR code I have no iPhone 4 here now but I need to know how well is its camera for reading small-size QR codes. Now I have some test QR codes printed on a sheet of paper and my old 1.3MPx smartphone camera doesn't recognize them. So, I wonder how good is iPhone 5MPx camera for doing that. The code I need to be read well from a printed sheet is 16x16mm or so. The size of a single square module is about half of a millimeter now. Please let me know if you have a chance to test it or if you had a deal with such things. Thanks!
A: I use the RedLaser app on my iPhone 3GS and it can handle just about every QR code that I've thrown at it. I would venture to say it would work even better with the higher resolution camera and enhanced image processing in the iPhone 4. Good lighting is probably going to be key.
A: 16mmx16mm is pretty small (I tried with with my iPod Touch4G and it didn't work). I would say it would depends on the application which you are using and how well it does the image processing.
| {
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Q: Repairing an iPhone screen I've got a broken screen on my iPhone 4. Does anyone have any hints, suggestions, or products that you have used to repair your broken screen? Is there anything different about the iPhone 4 vs other iOS devices (due to the Gorilla Glass)?
A: I would suggest the iFixIt kit and guide. It's gonna be expensive since unlike of the the previous versions iPhone, on iPhone4 you can't just change the glass without the changing LCD..
A: You probably have your IPhone fixed or replaced by now, but maybe others will find this useful.
I faced the same problem last Sunday - IPhone 4 glass shattered in thousand places after being dropped on the floor. We used iFixYourI to replace the screen assembly - they have a location in Boston, and it only took 20 minutes + about $130. On iPhone4 only the entire glass + digitizer + LCD assembly can be replaced. I would suggest googling "iphone 4 screen replacement" to see your local outlets first; if nothing is available nearby iFixYourI or others will still accept your phone by mail; Finally, if you want to DIY then screen assemblies can now be purchased now for less than $100.
Hope this helps.
| {
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Q: In Numbers '09, can I change the Currency Cell Format to default to Accounting Style?
A: Unfortunately, it does not appear so. In fact, when you check the "Accounting Style" button, you may notice that the $ symbol up in the toolbar actually gets deselected. From Numbers's perspective, accounting style is different from the standard currency style present in the toolbar.
You can, if you like, define your own custom cell style that does what you want. You can see here, I've added an "Accounting" style in the drop down menu:
And my "Accounting" style is defined like this:
Really, though, I don't know that accessing things through the drop-down menu is going to be any more convenient for you than just hitting the "Accounting Style" checkbox.
| {
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Q: Why does the iPhone's iPod app sometimes forget playback position? I often listen to podcasts on my iPhone 3GS over several sessions. Occasionally the iPod app will forget the playback position, which drives me nuts because I have to remember where I was and fast forward to that point. Does anybody know what causes this? I can't seem to find any pattern to it.
I switch my iPhone off overnight and sync with iTunes every other day or so, but most of the time it's fine and I don't have the problem and the podcast shows up as part of the way through in iTunes itself. Also, I'm not playing anything else on the iPod in the meantime.
A: This could be a memory issue that the developer was forced to handle this way. All apps in iOS are subject to memory warnings at which point the app (developer) is to free up as much memory as it can by clearing out what the developer considered unnecessary information.
Another point of of possible quitting is if a phone call is being received. Apps only have a split second to save what is crucial before quitting to make room for the call. Again, the developer has to decide what is truly important and what isn't to save.
The save position may not sound like a lot, but mobile devices really don't give developers a lot of room to play with and media of any type is a resource hog.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7061",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Custom shortcut executes service twice Following this answer I have created a custom service that executes a shell script that looks like this:
open -a FireFox "http://dict.cc/$1"
It works fine when I click. Then I defined a custom shortcut for it, (⇧ ⌘ L), and when I use that, the script seems to get executed twice (two tabs open, both showing the desired page). How can I fix that?
Edit: This only seems to happen when I invoce the service using the shortcut from within FireFox.
Edit 2: This gets weirder and weirder. I now created a second script for looking up stuff in Google, and bound it to the hotkey ⇧ ⌘ T. Now when I press that, it actually opens both my custom services. I have no idea why this happens.
Also, I removed both the hotkeys temporarily to check if they were used, but nothing happened when I pressed them.
A: Strange… maybe trying to rebuild your services menu (and then restarting) will help? See the top answer here:
https://superuser.com/questions/43700/snow-leopard-services-menu-says-its-building
A: Rather than a direct answer to your question, why don't you try something like Alfred which allows you to setup custom web queries which are a keyboard shortcut away.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: The state of theming in OS X
Possible Duplicate:
Can I change my OS X theme?
There used to be a vibrant community of themers and modders for OS X. It seems like after Leopard was released a lot of that has dried up. This may be the one area where I envy Windows users. The flexibility they have in changing every aspect of the UI is really nice.
Are there any resources for people looking to change the look of our OS?
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: repaired disk/permissions, now imac won't boot into login My iMac has been running horrendously slow the past couple days, so I booted into the Snow Leopard CD and ran a disk repair and a permissions repair. Now I can't get past the spinner. It's been going for about 4 hours now with no shows of progress. Does any body have any ideas on what else I can try (I already tried doing the repairs again) or is there any way I can debug this?
A: There's a free app called AppleJack that's good for ths kind of thing. If you don't have that, Apple Hardware Test may help.
A: Try Verbose Boot - Command-V while starting, it will show you what the systme is doing as it starts up instead of a pretty gray face. If you get anything like "disk0s2: I/O Error" you're looking at a failing hard drive. Go to the nearest Genius Bar or other AASP. If you get hung up with some other errors, try re-installing the system from the Snow Leopard DVD.
A: When you ran a disk verify (which, IIRC, you must do before you can run a disk repair,) what were the errors that came up? You may be looking at a dying hard-drive. Try to use the iMac as little as possible until we (or someone at Apple/with an Apple certification) can help you figure out what's going on.
A: If it'll boot into single-user mode (hold Cmd-S while booting) try repairing it with fsck (filesystem consistency check and interactive repair) -- "help fsck" when you get the prompt. Work carefully; you'll have root permissions!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7067",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I manually install applications on a jailbroken iPad? I've had my jailbroken iPad for nearly a year. Over time, I've completely abandoned the idea of connecting it to iTunes at all - it just doesn't seem necessary, it's basically a full fledged computer itself. In addition, with it being the 64gb model, I wouldn't have the space to back up everything I have on there anyhow. Recently I decided to upgrade to 4.2.1, and as a safety net against data loss, I tar'd up the entire contents of the iPad to a USB drive (permissions, soft/hard links and all).
The upgrade was successful, but I'd like to be able to restore applications directly instead of re-downloading them from iTunes and then copying over the data/documents/library directories from my backup. Once caveat of doing things this way is that there may be a newer version of the app now on iTunes and my backup is no longer compatible with it.
What I'd like is to have the ability to restore the app directly to "/private/var/mobile/Applicaitons/[RANDOM HASH OR WHATEVER THIS IS]/". I've tried to do this, but I get a blank icon on the screen that doesn't successfully launch. I assume that during a "normal" application installation, there is some sort of registration process that takes place and that's the part I'm missing.
Can anyone provide some clues as to how the app install process works or shed some light on how I might accomplish a manual install?
A: *
*Make sure you have appsync and installous from cydia installed on your iPhone, installed from the source
*The app has to be a .ipa file.
Place the file in /private/var/mobile/documents/installous/downloads.
*Open up installous and install from there.
Or use iPhone Explorer as described in this LifeHacker post:
Using iPhone Explorer, you can backup or copy apps (and their settings) to your computer or to other iOS device—and it can do all of that without a jailbreak. To backup system files or default applications, like iOS's built-in calendar, you'll have to jailbreak your iOS device. (Even if you're not interested in backing up apps, iPhone Explorer is still great for mounting your iOS device as a disk.)
A: Quoting myself from another answer, this is how I add apps to jailbroken iOS. It's not easy to setup, but it's really simple and easy once you're done:
I believe the best way is using the iPhone Configuration Utility, yet again like that guide from corona. I've confirmed it works just like using the Organizer, but it doesn't need the Xcode. Just download it (this needs a free login, or find another place on the web with that file, v3.2 is about 10Mb), and drag the app / ipa inside your phone. Dealing with licensing the iphone is a whole nother issue (don't you love self promoting?).
A: I think you mean to restore data to an app and not install a new app right? If you wish you install you can use the methods mentioned but to simply restore data which your backing up yourself you simply need to restore/overwrite the Documents and Library folder of the app in question. It's worked for me numerous times. There may or may not be other folders in the main application folder but so far Documents and Library have been all that's needed. I use Chronus (from Cydia) to backup data from certain apps every onces in a while.
A: To add to eliben's answer, you can do this directly within your jailbroken iPad at least one way. I like to download stuff with wget directly to my iPad and am able to do this with OpenSSH and a standard regular-AppStore app called prompt which allows me to ssh directly into my iPad (127.0.0.1) as root or as the non-root "mobile" user. Password is always alpine by default.
Anyway, to do this one you can use unix's 'cp' or 'mv' functions
root#: cd current/path/of/file
root#: cp file.ipa /private/var/mobile/installous/downloads
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7068",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How can I reinstall an application that the Mac App Store thinks is installed already? I'm the developer of an application that is currently on the Mac App Store. I'm trying to download my own application so that I can test out the binary that is on the store. (As opposed to running it in Xcode.)
I have purchased my own app in the app store previously, but then deleted it. (So that I could install a different version for testing.) Now, the App Store thinks that the application is still installed, even though it is not. (I deleted the development version when I was finished using it.)
I have removed all instances of the application from:
*
*/Applications
*~/Downloads
But the app is marked as "Installed" in the App Store, and it doesn't show up in my purchases. Is there a trick to get my binary re-installed?
A: Awesome, I figured it out. Run this command, which rebuilds LaunchServices:
/System/Library/Frameworks/CoreServices.framework/Frameworks/LaunchServices.framework/Support/lsregister -kill -r -domain local -domain system -domain user
And everything should be back to good! Immediately after running, the App Store allowed me to re-purchase the app.
Source: MacLife Link
A: Just hit Launchpad and delete your app there by clicking and holding down the mouse button and clicking the "x" top left.
Now the Mac App Store knows it's deleted. Just redownload and be HAPPY!
A: It could be that the App Store interface sees your development version(s) as the installed copy. LaunchServices doesn't care if your app is in the /Applications folder or buried in your Xcode build directory. See also.
A: On Snow Leopard, I not only had to run the command in Craig's answer, I also had to make sure that Spotlight was up to date and did not show the app in question to still be on the computer.
You can refresh particular folders in Spotlight's index using the mdimport command. So to refresh the /Applications folder:
mdimport /Applications
I had a Lion partition as well as a SL partition on the machine. Spotlight was set up to index everything on both partitions, and there was a version of the app in question on my Lion partition. I added the entire Lion partition to Spotlight's ignore list, then ran the command in @Craig's answer, and everything worked. Just running the command in @Craig's answer was not enough for me.
A: Nothing helped (El Captain), so I opened Launchpad (F4), found application there, dragged it to Trash and successfully reinstalled.
A: (had it not been that I needed points to do so) I would have upvoted or added a comment that restarting my system like kakhkAtion
suggested was what worked. I was trying to reinstall Affinity Publisher from the app store. (I had tried to find it in Launchpad (it was gone), I removed it the icon from the doc, but both the App store and the command line tool 'mas' both reported it was still there. I also tried holding the option key). Only restarting worked (iMac 2012 running High Sierra 10.13.6)
A: You can also hold down option while clicking the app in the app store to force it to re-install.
A: This will work on OSX Mavericks and Yosemite.
Instead of launching the App Store app from the dock or the apps folder, launch the App Store app from within the Launcher. This will rebuild the App Store app and tell you what's installed or not.
A: Had the same issue. Just restarted my mac and then the app store could see that the app was not installed.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "34"
} |
Q: Is there any multiple terminal emulator for Mac OS? I love the command line and I would like to see an app like Terminator (for Linux) in my MacOs:
It seems there are ports of that app for Mac available using Fink or Ports. But I found it's a hell to install them... it depends on a lot of things which depends on other things which... etc.
So I've been wondering if there's a MacOS native app like that (free or not)...
A: Terminator was just ported to Mac OS X via the homebrew package Manager.
brew install terminator
See the PR or the recipe.
Tested on OS X 10.9.2 the main functionalities work.
A: iTerm 2 claims to be able to do this.
Edit: I just downloaded it, and it seems to work well enough that I think I'll switch from iTerm 1:
I'm not sure what's going on with you and macports, but I just installed tmux using macports. it took about 30 seconds, and was completely painless.
FWIW, I've subsequently spent enough time with GNU screen that I basically just use it for everything at this point. iTerm is nice if you want a local, mouse-driven multiplexer, but almost everything I do is server-side at this point, and doing it all over one SSH connection is much better anyways.
A: Install GNU Screen, or TMUX via macports/homebrew or by compiling it by hand.
A: I'm a big fan of SizeUp which lets you tile windows using keyboard commands. This doesn't put different views in one terminal, but it does let me easily have a bunch of views open at once and organized neatly.
A: I think iTerm 2 and TotalTerminal are all great tools to improve the efficiency when working on terminal and command lines.
A: I found that GNU screen does exactly what I want (just type screen in terminal), but only after I spent a few minutes learning some basics. Here is the jump start I needed on key bindings (straight from the man page) - note that you need to install the GNU version for vertical splits (listed after the FAU version that was in my Mavericks).
Screen version 4.00.03 (FAU) 23-Oct-06
(included in Mavericks and likely similar in earlier)
The following table shows the default key bindings:
C-a ' (select) Prompt for a window name or number to switch to.
C-a " (windowlist -b)
Present a list of all windows for selection.
C-a 0 (select 0)
a| a|
C-a 9 (select 9)
C-a - (select -) Switch to window number 0 - 9, or to the blank window.
C-a tab (focus) Switch the input focus to the next region. See also split, remove, only.
C-a C-a (other) Toggle to the window displayed previously. Note that this binding defaults
to the command character typed twice, unless overridden. For instance, if
you use the option "-e]x", this command becomes "]]".
...
C-a S (split) Split the current region into two new ones.
...
C-a ? (help) Show key bindings.
C-a \ (quit) Kill all windows and terminate screen.
...
C-a * (displays) Show a listing of all currently attached displays.
Additional items with 'Screen version 4.02.01 (GNU) 28-Apr-14'
(installed using sudo port install screen just now)
All of the items listed above in the 4.00.02 (FAU) version, as well as:
C-a S (split) Split the current region horizontally into two new ones. See also only,
remove, focus.
Same above, but this clarifies that it is horizontal.
...
C-a | (split -v) Split the current region vertically into two new ones.
Note: I tried searching the web for this, but words such as 'screen', 'terminal', and 'split' are so common as to make the man pages easier for me.
A: Use gnu screen, it does what you want, split your single terminal window into many windows all within the same GUI window. (though you'll probably want a newer version than what comes with OS X as the ability to split on both axis is newer than the version of screen already installed on your mac.)
A: There is also the following:
csshx
A: For macOS 10.12 cssh from https://www.macports.org works great, whereas the homebrew version fails.
A: Check out SecureCRT: https://www.vandyke.com/products/securecrt/mac_osx.html They have a build for Windows, Mac, and Linux. I've used the Windows version for years, and started using the Mac version recently. Although the Mac version isn't as fancy as the Windows version, it is full featured for everything I've ever needed in a multiple terminal emulator. It would be nice to have MobaXterm on Mac, but sadly it's only for Windows.
By the way, SecureCRT is not free. It is $99 for 1 year of updates or $139 for 3 years of updates. If you do cloud computing, server management, etc, it is well worth the price.
A: Use Command + T to open new terminal window
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "24"
} |
Q: Remote desktop iPhone app vs BT Home Hub 2.0 I got an app (RDP Lite) which lets me use my PC remotely when I set the IP address to my PC's and use it at home. So it's fine internally but when I want to try it externally I try setting it to my router's IP address, provided by BT Home Hub Manager under Home Network > IP Addresses, and that doesn't work.
I know I need to configure my router to allow incoming traffic to my default port for Windows XP, 3389, but I really don't know how. I've tried a few things like letting supported applications VNC to device 'IBM...etc' and removing the firewall temporarily but I'm shooting in the dark here.
A: I was about to buy that app, but I'm a long time user of LogMeIn Free were from here (Denmark) I help my mum and dad as well plenty of friends with their computer related problems back in my home country (Portugal)
LogMeIn Free was a fantastic as free solution, no hassle with proxies, routers or anything as it works with port 80 (http traffic).
So I bought the LogmeIn Ignition App and continue to use my access to all computers that i used before. It's a bit expensive ($29.99) but I bought it within a promotion discount and works marvelous and super fast!
I can now access any windows or mac computer from my iPhone or iPad with no worries.
It's just an idea.
A: You need to do a few things:
*
*Set up your PC to have a static IP address on your home network, you can do this two ways. Either tell the router to always assign the same IP address to your PCs MAC address or tell the PC to take the same IP address when it starts up. Best thing to do here is to search for your routers model number and the phrase 'static ip'
*Have the router forward traffic on port 3389 to your PCs port 3389 via the port-forwarding section of your routers configuration panel
*Identify the external IP of your router (go to www.whatismyip.com) or setup a dynamic DNS entry, try www.dyndns.com or www.no-ip.com
*Tell the firewall on your PC to allow incoming traffic on port 3389
*Make sure the PC is listening for your connection on the right port
It sounds like you're almost there, you might just be missing a small part.
A: It's usually called port forwarding but in your case it's most likely to be found under the 'applications' you mentioned in your router.
Make sure your PC has a fixed IP address and set up a rule in your router to forward all 'port 3389' traffic (that's the default port for the RDP protocol) to the IP address of your PC. Then try to connect your RDP client on your phone using your public IP address.
Quit often routers allow you to map inbound traffic on a specific port to a local IP address on another port. That's usefull if you want to control multiple PC's behind a router, if it's just one, use the same portnumber, 3389 in your case.
| {
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"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Mac OS X Terminal [Use option as meta key] overrides backslash in spanish keyboard I already posted this question in stackoverflow:
https://stackoverflow.com/questions/4811282/mac-os-x-terminal-use-option-as-meta-key-overrides-backslash-in-spanish-keyboar
but I was informed there that this is the right place to ask it.
I check "Use option as meta key" checkbox in Mac OS X Terminal, because I like to use emacs way of moving between words: M-f & M-b.
But if I do that, I can't get the backslash (Option + º; i.e.: Option + key-at-the-left-of-1-in-spanish-keyboard). If I uncheck it, then I can input the backslash, but I don't have M-f & M-b.
Is there a way to get both? This is driving me nuts!
A: And, as I already answered you on stackoverflow, the solution is to put the following line into your ~/.bash_profile, which remaps the unicode character "∫" (Unicode: E288AB, which is what is sent to your terminal right now in your desired configuration when you press Option + °) to the backslash character:
bind '"\033\xE2\x88\xAB"':'"\\"'
A: I have built a solution myself and it doesn't require abandoning Terminal.app in favour of iTerm 2.
It is a simple status bar app that runs in the background and rewrites all left Alt + $KEY key events to two key events in rapid succession, Esc, then $KEY; however, it only does this if Terminal.app is in focus.
You can find the source for the app here. You'll need Xcode to build it.
A: Asmus' answer does not seem enough because it fixes backslash on bash. But then there's zsh. And Emacs. And etc.
But since there's no way to map non-function keys in Terminal.app, I'm afraid I can't see another solution: you'd have to go ahead and map all the keys you want in all the programs you need them, which is a drag and is not optimum, because you won't ever have ƒ and ^[f at once.
Or try habibalamin's solution, it seems far simpler and it keeps distinct functionality for left alt and right alt. I will vote up after trying it.
I can't comment with my rep on this stack site, sorry.
| {
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} |
Q: Upload video to iPod directly without sync-ing We have a number of iPods and a number of computers and the fact that they need to be matched one-to-one for iTunes sync'ing to work is really a pain.
Is there a way for me to upload a video directly onto an iPod Nano (a previous generation that can still play them back, not the current one), without having to switch the library it is connected with (which would erase all other content on there)?
A: Another option is to manually manage music and videos. Click on the iPod in iTunes, check Manually manage music and videos. It will allow you to connect your iPods with your various computers without worrying about wiping them.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1535
A: Here is a way to do it : Use the App "USB Disk"
A: I'd take a look at PhoneView and iRip2. Both have demos. I have and use both and they are excellent.
http://www.ecamm.com/mac/phoneview/index.html
http://thelittleappfactory.com/irip/
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: How to disable ._ AppleDouble files for SMB? I have a small problem. I don't want that our Macs here create the ._ files to the network drive. For example when you copy an image over the finder to the SMB storage.
Is there a way to disable this function in Finder?
The .DS_Store file is already disabled, but not files such as ._pic1.jpg .
We activated veto files in samba to prevent creation of ._ files, there arose an error – not enough permissions on the drive.
Thank to all ;)
A: Don't know of a way within Finder, but Blue Harvest (paid application) offers this functionality: http://www.zeroonetwenty.com/blueharvest4/
A: Finder
Finder does much to ensure integrity of data, and to make its results compatible with a broad range of Apple operating systems.
Please, you should not attempt to prevent Finder from creating ._ (dot underscore) files during copy or move routines.
File system
If you prevent creation at the file system level – as you did with your configuration of Samba – you make that file system partially incompatible with at least:
*
*Apple Finder
*Microsoft Office Excel, PowerPoint and Word 2011.
(For any use case that involves Office 2011 saving to a file system, you must allow ._ on that file system … and so on.)
For more detail please see my answer to a more recent question, Why are dot underscore ._ files created, and how can I avoid them?:
*
*Purposes of .DS_Store and ._ files
| {
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} |
Q: two itunes libraries - one on external hard disk I have a macbook pro as my everyday machine, but since my music collection was getting big and my hard disk is small, I decided to utilize an external hard disk that I had and was not used for anything. On the external HDD I created a new iTunes Library and copied all my music there. Some small amount of it I left on my MBP so I could listen on the go. When I was home and I wanted to refresh the MBP's music, I'd connect the external HDD and if I downloaded any new music in my iTunes Library I'd copied them to the external HDD too.
This way the external HDD contains the most current contents of my music collection.
It was ok, until I recently decided to buy an iPhone.
I synced the iPhone to my MBP's iTunes Library and now trying to copy some new music from the external HDD iTunes Library I'm being told that in order to do that I have to delete everything that's on my iPhone.
Is there any different option?
A: iPhone can be synced to only one iTunes library at any given moment. If you want to add songs to the iPhone, you must add them to your MBP's iTunes library and then sync to the iPhone.
| {
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} |
Q: specify Open With application for stacks My application preferences were reset, and at which point the 'Open In Finder' arrow on the stacks is now opening iPhoto. Does anybody know how to change this?
A: My Finder.app had become corrupted, I was able to re-install Finder.app (without needed to re-install my entire system) with Pacifist found at http://www.charlessoft.com/.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: How can I re install Tiger without the original install or recovery DVDs? I have an iMac (PPC) with iSight. How can I re install Tiger without the original install or recovery DVDs?
A: You need to find Tiger DVDs in order to install the OS, friends and eBay (or its moral equivalent in your country) are a good place to start.
A: Anyway to install Tiger on your iMac you will need to get an image of it and try to make it bootable on other devices (if you don't want to use DVD). But the easiest way remains finding out the Tiger DVD.
| {
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Q: How do I use RemotePC to access a Mac from an iPad? I want to use RemotePC, but it needs an internet connection. I don't understand why; I only want to remotely control my Mac from an iPad, so a local network should be enough… right?
A: Macs come with VNC automatically, no additional install. If you can trust everyone on your local network and your VNC ports are closed on your router/firewall, then I would just turn it on. There is a check box under advanced remote management or remote desktop options that says something about allowing VNC users to log in. There's an optional password field. I use iTeleport then to VNC into my mac. There are other cheaper VNC programs too, but iTeleport is pretty excellent.
A: I use www.logmein.com. I am not sure how well it works nativly, but with the $30 ignition app, it works great. The one thing that might not be best for you is that it is web based - you have to do it over the internet - a local network with no internet access would not work.
A: ActyMac DutyWatch Remote is a good app for remote control, and provides access from an iPad.
A: RemotePC is designed to connect over the internet - i.e. when you are not on the same network. If you want to connect over e.g. a ad hoc network, look for a VNC client such as Screens or iTeleport (my favorites). They are both great.
http://edovia.com/screens
http://www.iteleportmobile.com/
Both apps connect to a Screen Sharing enabled Mac. iTeleport can also connect via the internet, i.e. even if you are not on the same WiFi, using an extra application which you run on your Mac.
As for remote control - I would recommend either TouchPad or HippoRemote. They also work using VNC, but instead of showing you the screen, they give you a virtual trackpad/keyboard on you iDevice.
http://edovia.com/touchpad
http://hipporemote.com/
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: MBP works fine but not visible on network I have a strange problem, that for the life of me I can't seem to resolve. I'm hardly a newbie to this type of stuff, which is making the lack of success even more frustrating/embarrassing :)
I have a pretty much pure-Apple setup: two AirportExtreme routers (one acting as a range extender for the first), two MacbookPros, two iPhones, iPad etc. Love my toys.
However my one MBP does not seem to be visible from the network. I can ping anything from anything else, with the exception of this one MBP. The machine is of course connected and working fine. It can also ping everything on the network.
I've used a static IP so that I can be sure I'm pinging the right machine. I've also checked that the firewall is (Preferences -> Security -> Firewall) turned off.
What else do I need to check to diagnose this?
A: So, Broken MBP can ping anywhere, including other machines in your network, but can it ping itself? (You have to read that with the "Will it Blend?" sound)
The rest of the machines can ping each other, but not the Broken MBP.
Am I correct?
Does this only happen via Wi-Fi? Have you tried using a Cable?
What happens if you turn ON the firewall and make sure that in "Advanced" the machine is not in Stealth Mode:
(Security -> Firewall -> Advanced)
A: Looks like this is some restrictions on Wi-Fi services in OS X. I have hade the same problem but when I used cable ethernet connection - all went OK.
A: I would remove the range-extending Airport Extreme from the setup, and turn off all other devices except for the two laptops, just for troubleshooting purposes.
Then I'd set both laptops to normal DHCP, not static IP addresses, in case this was causing a problem, then see whether the "healthy" laptop can ping the "unhealthy" laptop.
Check that the "System Preferences --> Sharing --> FileSharing" is enabled, and check through the options, shared folders, and users to make sure that anonymous users can see the files you are trying to share.
If all of this works, then I'd slowly add devices one by one, until I'd found which one was causing the problem, and troubleshoot further from there.
Good luck!
A: I had a similar problem recently and wasted a lot of time on it only to find out that my MBP was connecting to the guest network from my Time Capsule.
A: Can you
*
*ping other devices on the network from the broken MacBook?
*from another computer, ping all devices but just not the broken MacBook?
If both of the above are true there must be a firewall somewhere blocking icmp pings to the broken macbook. Maybe on the airport? Have you reseved the mac address for this macbook? Otherwise double check the network settings. DHCP or static won't make any difference. DHCP is not going to change that often.
A: OK, this might help someone.
Go to your preferences > click on Sharing > turn File Sharing on.
Happy sharing
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7104",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: iPad Charging USB Hub?
Possible Duplicate:
When I plug my iPad into my computer USB ports, iPad displays “Not Charging”. What can I do?
Newer MacBooks provide enough juice through the built-in USB ports for the iPad to charge quickly, and one can use the wall outlet to get the job done as well. However, there don't seem to be any hubs out there that do anything but trickle-charge...
Is anyone aware of a USB hub that can charge an iPad? I'd really like to be able to sync & charge at the same time without having to plug in directly into the MacBook.
A: Apple's online store sells two Belkin USB hubs with support for "high-power devices":
Power: Max. power output per port: 500mAh
*
*Belkin USB 4-port Hub * Stellar
*Belkin USB 7-port Hub * Stellar
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7106",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Howto Setup External Drive as a Networked Drive I've got an external 1.5TB drive I'd like to connect to my iMac and use as a networked drive so other computers can connect to it's IP and read/write to the Drive. What would be the best way to do this?
Specifics I'm looking for:
*
*What format? (I'm thinking NTSF)
*What software? (FUSE or something
else?)
*How would you set it up using
that software for a quick and easy
install?
A: My suggestion would be to format the drive to the default Mac OS X filesystem, HFS+ journaled. Then share the drive over SMB:
*
*Open System Preferences
*Go into Sharing
*Check the box beside "File Sharing"
*Under "Shared Folders", click the + icon and select the drive you want to share
*Click the "Options..." button
*Check the box beside "Share files and folders using SMB (Windows)"
*Check the box beside the user accounts you want to have access to the drive
*Click Done
Once this is done, all you have to do is to configure Samba on your Linux machine to connect to the shared drive.
You could also share over AFP instead and use netatalk on your Linux machine, but I've found that Samba is better supported.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7107",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What's the difference between one finger dragging and drag lock? If I go into Settings > Trackpad and enable Tap to click, I can enable the settings Dragging and Drag Lock.
What is the difference between these two settings?
It appears that they are doing the same exact thing when I try to use them. From my understanding, if I don't have drag lock enabled, I should be able to double tap then drag a window, after I lift up my finger, the dragging should stop. However, that is not the case, I must tap again in order for the dragging to stop.
A: If you enable Drag Lock after you do your desire change you must tap you finger to release dragged item but if you disable it if you do your desire change you only need to put up your finger form trackpad.
A: I believe I figured out the difference:
Dragging:
*
*Double tap and hold to begin dragging.
*Release the mouse.
*Depending on the amount of time that has passed, moving the mouse will do one of the following:
*
*Brief delay: moving the mouse continues the dragging, essentially behaving the exact same way as drag lock. The cycle is then repeated once you release your finger.
*Longer delay: dragging is stopped.
Dragging & Drag Lock:
*
*Double tap and hold to begin dragging.
*Release the mouse.
*Moving the mouse will continue dragging.
*Tap once to stop the dragging.
It's that brief delay that was throwing me off. There doesn't seem to be any way to customize the length of this delay. One thing that does help, though, is figuring out exactly how long this delay is. One method for figuring this out is the following:
*
*Drag an icon from the dock a tiny bit so that if you were to release it, it wouldn't be deleted.
*Release the mouse.
*Observe how long it takes for the icon to move back to its place. That is the exact amount of minimum time that you should wait when you are finished dragging something.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7109",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "19"
} |
Q: Triple finger tap for middle click? I can single tap my trackpad for a left click, and tap it with two fingers for a right click. Is there any way to bind a three finger tap to perform a middle click?
I tried MagicPrefs, but it's limited to the MagicMouse only, it doesn't work with the trackpad.
A: You can try BetterTouchTool. There might be a setting to do that. Maybe you'll even find another gesture to triple-click that you'll like better.
A: There is also another tool that I like more then BetterTouchTool,
it's called MiddleClick and does exactly what you expect :-)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7110",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: How can I get my trackpad settings to work on the login screen? I enabled the System Preferences > Trackpad > Tap to Click which causes it to work while I am logged in. However, in the login screen, it does not work. How can I get this setting enabled in the login screen as well?
A: Open Terminal and enter the following commands
*
*defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles TRUE
*killall Finder
In Finder
*
*open Macintosh HD/Library/Preferences
*Ctl+click/right-click a file called .GlobalPreferences.plist and click 'Get Info'
*Change the permissions to allow you to alter it but make a note/screenshot of what they are first. (be careful here!)
*open the file by double-clicking
Property List Editor will run and open the .plist file
*
*Click 'Root' at the top of the window
*Click the 'Add Child' button
*Add an entry called com.apple.mouse.tapBehaviour
*Make it a Number type
*Set the value to 1
*Save the file
Back in Finder, reset the permissions to what they were
In Terminal enter the following commands
*
*defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles FALSE
*killall Finder
Reboot and the next time you login you should be able to use Tap to click
If you run into issues with Terminal commands or with the plist file make sure your capitalization is correct, case matters!
A: The latest method:
sudo defaults write com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.trackpad Clicking
A: I think that this is impossible but I find below post (but didn't test myself)
according to fds post:
defaults write /Library/Preferences/.GlobalPreferences com.apple.mouse.tapBehavior -int 1
A: I don't know if this is still the case, but the login window's session used to be run as root. So if you enabled the root account, logged in as root, and set whatever trackpad or mouse settings you liked in System Preferences, they would be applied to the login window.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7112",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: What trackpad gestures does Safari support? Which trackpad gestures does Safari support, and what do those gestures do?
A: As far as i know, Safari supports pinch to change zooming, three finger swipes to navigate back and forward and that's it.
A: Take a look at Jitouch to add a slew of extra gestures to Safari, and window controls in general.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7113",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How can I restore a file from the trash back to its original folder? If I deleted files on my computer and they went to the trash, how can I send them back to the same folder that they came from?
On Windows, I can right-click the files and press restore.
Copying them to a location manually (e.g. via finder) is not a valid solution, since I don't know where they came from.
A: I think you can just right-click the file and select "Put Back"
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7114",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: iOS 4.3 Beta for Apple TV I'm wondering if anyone knows what features will be offered in iOS 4.3 for Apple TV? I'm primarily trying to find out if the Netflix app will be updated to support subtitles.
A:
I'm wondering if anyone knows what features will be offered in iOS 4.3
While in beta, we, Apple Developers with access to the developer portal, are prohibited to say anything regarding the beta iOS.
A: There's a good breakdown of new features over on iLounge
In summary;
Apple TV
*
*AirPlay improvements (stream some web videos and your own videos)
*iOS Software Number matches other iOS devices
*New On-Screen Keyboard Design
There don't appear to be any changes to Netflix but there's always a chance it'll appear in the final release. You might have to wait for iOS 5
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7115",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Toggle between applications via four finger gesture? Currently, if you enable it, the four finger gesture popups a window that shows you the apps you can switch to, You can then select one of them using the mouse.
Is there any way to modify this gesture a bit to make it faster to use?
I would be fine with either of these implementations:
*
*When you perform the gesture, a right swipe will immediately switch to the next window in the queue, while a left swipe will switch to the previous one. As a result, the queue should not be changed every time you switch windows, otherwise if you keep performing the right gesture, you will just be navigating back and forth between the same two windows.
*When the gesture is performed, you see the popup window which displays the open application's icons as you normally do now; but you can keep the fingers down on the trackpad, and move them left or right to highlight a different icon. Once the application you want to switch to is highlighted, you release the trackpad and it switches to that application.
A: Have you looked into BetterTouchTool? It lets you customize every touchpad input under the sun. You could for example remap the four-finger horizontal swipe to Cmd+Tab.
A: On Mac OS 10.6:
*
*Swipe with four fingers
*Swipe or scroll with two fingers to select the application
*Four fingers tap (no need to be over the app switcher) and it switches to the application you've selected.
A: The best way to do this is with one of the more obscure settings in BetterTouchTool
It works like this:
A three fingered right swipe brings up the application switcher. Lift one finger to covert it into a two finger swipe and slide to whichever application you want.
It becomes an incredible natural and fluid gesture The beauty of the gesture is that it works anywhere on the screen and you don't have to position the mouse over the icons.
*
*In BTT assign the three finger swipe right to the application switcher.
*In BTT Action Settings -> Stuff(App Switcher) -> Use special application switcher
This answers the problem that bisko and senseful had above and avoids the last click or the necessity to be over the icon.
Single best gesture in my 'gesture vocabulary' and I have gestures for everything!
A: What about using the Command-tab keyboard shortcut for faster application switching than with the trackpad? Add the ability to quit or hide selected applications along the way by tapping Q or H. Or, use LiteSwitch X for more enhanced app switching.
A: You can also use the keyboard to control the list of running applications that comes up with the four finger swipe left or right (it's the same thing as holding down ALT+TAB).
In particular, the spacebar switches to the selected application, so your first scenario can be accomplished easily: Swipe with four fingers to bring up the switcher (it automatically selects the 'next' application for you), and hit space.
Your second scenario is the same - swipe with four fingers to bring the window up, use 2 fingers to scroll and select the desired app (you can use the arrow keys or tab too), then space to switch.
As the spacebar is right next to the trackpad, I find that this is pretty nice :-)
A: Although I think this thread is intended for 10.6, I came to it via search, as Apple has dropped the described functionality as far as any is aware from OS X 10.7/8. I will describe a method to re-implement it below. (Is there a better venue for this?)
Following up on boertel and Orion Edwards' above;
Boertel describes the functionality as it exists in 10.6. (Which I use all the time, incidentally)
From Orion's, I wasn't aware of the fact that space selected the highlighted entry. (Return does as well.)
With these two facts, and BetterTouchTool, I think i've been able to replicate the behavior on 10.8 .
Set BTT to advanced mode.
Deselect Action Settings (Window Snapping etc.) --> Settings for Predefined Actions --> Use special application switcher.
Return to Gestures.
In Global:
Set four finger swipe left/right to "Application Switcher".
Set four finger tap to "Send Keyboard shortcut to specific application".
Set the keyboard shortcut to "space".
(We could just define the tap as a global space, but I don't want possible random spaces being executed.)
Set the application to the dock app found at /System/Library/CoreServices/Dock.app .
Set Bring app to front before sending the shortcut. (Switch app back does not seem to be required, as the application switcher is changing the focus anyway.)
Save.
Test/Enjoy!
Thus far it is working correctly for me. If anyone can/wants to improve on this, please do! Hopefully this will be of some use in the future, to others looking to regain lost functionality. (Why Apple, Why?!)
A: I use (BTT) 3 finger gesture, ( two finger tiptap left ) what works for me is tap two fingers( leave the two fingers there) then followed by double tap with the third finger,(let go) then use the other two remaining fingers to slide witch ever app you wish to use (only active)
1. In BTT assign the two finger tiptop left to the "application switcher"
2. In BTT Action Settings -> Settings for predefined actions-> "check" Use special application switcher
http://www.bettertouchtool.net
** BTT is an Awesome APP, plus is FREE
NOTE: you must do the double tap single finger simultaneously, other wise the sliding won't work.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7118",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: iPhone application compatibility Does the Nike iPhone Sport Kit will work on a 2nd generation iPhone that has the 3.0 update applied? In the Q&A on the website, some say it will, but others say it only works on a 3GS iPhone.
A: The Nike iPhone Sport Kit only works on the iPhone 3GS and later.
It won't work on the first iPhone or on the iPhone 3G.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7120",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is data transmitted over 3G secure? When data is transferred from my iPhone via 3G, is it encrypted, or is it relatively simple for a hacker to read the data that's transferred to AT&T's cell tower? What about after it reaches the tower?
A: If you are operating over https, it doesn't matter through what type of connection you are communicating over. All data is going to be encrypted from your browser to the server program. The only way to brake this is to the eavesdrop mediate the communication between you and the your final destination. To solve this, identity certificate were created. This certifies that you are talking to your final destination and not through some mediator. So as long as identity certificate match, you are safe. If the identity certificate does not match the browser will show you a security warning, saying that the certificate does not match, generally they will leave an option for you to go on with the communication, just in case in the operation you are doing you don't care about security.
A: Not in the least. Even HTTPS is secure only from non government or ISP level actors. Check EFF.org for more, but I warn you, it's damned depressing.
EDIT: The past is a country that is very hard to visit:
Bruce Schneier's analysis on SSL:
http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2010/09/uae_man-in-the-.html
Mozilla's discussion:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/mozilla.dev.security.policy/OBrPLsoMAR8
The open letter in august detailing the problem from the EFF:
https://www.eff.org/deeplinks/2010/08/open-letter-verizon
It's not that they decrypt it, you see. Encryption we are all on equal footing until the quantum key or lock. But people who don't code are not stupid. SSL you can guarantee security to the server, but the certs themselves come from a chain of trust.
The phrase "I got that government gig! Homeland Security! Mary Anne's new boyfriend... F**k You!" , or similar must have been said at some point.
Amazon was not the only place after Wikileaks to have a group of sedans pull up. The FBI is screaming right now for backdoors in fact, or rather, to legitimize the backdoors they must have. Since government, or industrial actors are not 'actors' but 'people' it is not FUD to question it.
An example of FUD, would be to highlight say, the complexity of the mathematics and try to use that to prove an answer wrong, and restore faith in a system that worked in the past, while ignoring the forced trust in humans, and the successful exploit in the wild.
Make sense?
A: A man-in-the-middle attack or snooping from someone sitting in the same coffee shop is far less likely over 3G. The equipment to do such is far less commonly available, and the expertise required is higher.
Neither is guaranteed to be secure from say, a government intelligence organization or other large sophisticated operation, as the 3G encryption is not of that grade. But HTTPS and SSH should protect you from the average snoop over either.
A: 3G can be secure or insecure, it's really down to the particular implementation. If you are worried about your data while tethering or using a 3G iPad/iPhone then look at it this way, it's more secure than using free/unsecured WiFi hotspots/networks.
Really the answer to your question is that 3G is pretty secure, but it has its flaws.
3G is encrypted, the most common encryption algorithms have been cracked, with the right equipment somebody could intercept your information wirelessly. However, they would need some knowledge, some money and some motivation to do it. Then in addition to that, they would need your device to send unencrypted data (non https) so it could be deciphered. All in all it's pretty unlikely but certainly possible that your information could be intercepted. However, this is a risk for anyone transmitting data anywhere and is not isolated to 3G/WiFi or other mobile device communication methods.
Try a google search on 3G security and you'll find plenty of information on the flaws and security holes and how they might be exploited.
Just as an example, here are a couple of presentations:
3G Security Overview
blackhat.com powerpoint
A: A man in the middle attack can also be performed using sslstrip which can easily strip the ssl from https, making it an http connection, intercept all the data and use a fake certificate to re-enable the ssl before sending it out to the destination. In simple words that's the idea.
The user will never know what even happened to him/her. This was showcased in Blackhat in 2009 if I'm not mistaken. If Moxie Marlinspike was able to this in 2009, imagine what other pro hackers are capable of doing these days. He was one of the few revealing this for good purposes. A lot of them won't publish the vulnerabilities that they have at their disposal.
Don't want to scare you but if you think ssl is secure think twice. It's really up to the browsers to maintain the security of the users. Your faith is really in their hand. A lot of vulnerabilities exist for many years just like the heartbleed before they do something about it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7124",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "22"
} |
Q: Using timed access control in airport extreme base station I have an airport base station model A1354. I am attempting to setup MAC Timed Access so a laptop can only connect between 5:00AM and 11:00pm through the Airport Utility version 5.5.2 (552.11). My AEBS is running firmware version 7.5.2
When I try to enter the time values by double clicking over the time and entering 05:00 AM and 11:00PM the time values don't stay as soon as it looses focus. Instead they become what is in the following screenshot, and the laptop looses connectivity as soon as I update the base station. I also tried entering the values in military time with the same result.
Here is the requested screenshot:
A: When you've altered the times, click the '+' button so a second line appears, then click 'Done'.
A: Are you typing your times in the following format:
HH:MM ?
as in, with a space between the time and AM/PM?
I know this sounds like a stupid question, but my AEBS has done some stupid things when I tried to type it without the space (e.g. 12:43PM).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7128",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: will Airline Power Adapter work in a car lighter as well? Trying to see if I would buy this accessory with a new MacBook Air 11'', does anyone know if the Airline Power Adapter work exactly as a charger that we normally use in the car?
A: Nope, it says on the package that it was specifically designed for those Airline plugs and will not work in cars.
Plus, it will not charge your MacBook, it will only power it to run.
Cheers!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7132",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Can I bind multiple key shortcuts to the same action? I do a lot of pair programming. Some developers that I pair with use Linux as their primary desktop. So none of the keyboard shortcuts they are used to work.
What I would like to be able to do is bind multiple key chords to the same action. For example I want both ctrl-t and cmd-t to open a new tab in chrome.
I know that you can rebind shortcuts in system preferences/keyboard. I just don't know how to set multiple keystrokes to the same action.
A: It seems like adding a shortcut in the Keyboard preferences will override the built-in defaults. You can use Keyboard Maestro (a paid app) to add such things - easiest would be to add a trigger for the alternative combo which translates into a menu action or into the original keyboard shortcut being sent to the application of choice.
A: I ended using Karabiner
probably not as powerful as Maestro, but for simple needs it does the job beautifully.
A: I use BetterTouchTool for this. Here you can create a keyboard shortcut which sends a shortcut of your choice. Simply as that!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7144",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Third Party Mini Display Port to VGA or DVI Cables curious if anyone has any experience with any third party Mini Display Port to VGA or DVI cables? I noticed the cables on ebay selling for around $16. Compared to the official cables that run for around $35 seems like a bargin. Wasn't sure if the quality is the same or if anyone has any experience with buying them. Thanks!
A: The cables from Monoprice.com have recently changed so they're not shaped as nicely as before, but the quality is still excellent for the price. 6ft cable for $10 shipped.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024604&p_id=5999&seq=1&format=2
The picture isn't faithful to what you'll receive as the Mini Display Port male plug is now a bit bulkier. Still works flawlessly though.
A: Most third-party cables will work perfectly. In particular, any cables which are digital should perform exactly as their more expensive counterparts. I've personally used a couple of third party cables which worked without issue.
I bought a Mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable when the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody first came out from www.circuitassembly.com and it's great quality and was cheap too
A: A cheap knockoff Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter in I bought on eBay for $7 worked pretty well, but caused a strange problem on my rMBP. Occasionally, when using it, my Wi-Fi would cut out, and switching to an Apple adapter fixed the issue.
I tested this six ways to Sunday, and the cheap adapter was definitely the consistent factor. It's a weird issue, but apparently I'm not the only one.
A: We got several mini-display port to DVI, VGA and HDMI cables from http://www.meritline.com/ and they work great. In particular, they have a mini-displayport to hdmi, dvi and displayport (all in one) dongle.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7148",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do I make a bootable USB OS X installer on a Mac? Does anyone have a Terminal command-line recipe for making a new bootable USB flash drive for one of the new MacBook Air's? Is there a way to dd copy the USB boot device that comes in the box and make the new copy bootable? I'd like to make a new backup copy of the USB rescue device for my MBA, preferably on a much larger flash drive with room for a backup of some of my working directories.
Added:
And is it possible to make, not just a rescue drive, but a bootable USB drive that will boot a fully updated version of the OS (say 10.6.8 or later)? If so how on a MacBook Air 11, and how big a USB stick will this require?
A: dd makes a byte-for-byte copy of a disk so wouldn't really fit what you're trying to do. For example, if you used dd to copy your current USB key to a new bigger USB key, the additional space on that new USB key would not be usable because dd copies the partition table, not just the data.
Why not just keep your backups on an external drive. Then you could boot off your rescue USB disk and have your data saved on another external drive.
EDIT
Here's a method of at least cloning your boot disk from discussions.apple.com which seems to have worked for several people
*
*Get an 8GB USB stick and format it for a boot disk (partition it with GUID option and (Mac OS X extended (journaled)).
*Insert the Apple USB stick also. There is a invisible file at the root you need to mount on the desktop called MacOSX.dmg. You can use a utility such as Onyx or use the terminal with the open command to mount it.
*Use carbon copy cloner to clone the mounted "Mac OS X Installer Image" to the new USB stick
*Unmount the "Mac OS X Installer Image"
*Use carbon copy cloner to then clone the Apple USB stick to the new USB stick. Select the delete exiting files. Steps 2 - 4 are necessary because if you just clone the Apple USB stick the new USB stick won't be bootable.
*After this finishes you will now have a bootable copy. You can then also use Disk Utility to create a disk image of the new copy.
Helpful hints:
To allow you to view hidden files, in terminal run this command:
defaults write com.apple.Finder AppleShowAllFiles TRUE (hit Enter after each command)
then:
killall Finder
Afterwards, to hide hidden files again, go back to Terminal :
defaults write com.apple.Finder AppleShowAllFiles FALSE
then:
killall Finder
A: If Apple's supported method of using the createinstallmedia tool doesn't work, you can try other options below:
*
*https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372 - Create a bootable installer for OS X
With OS X El Capitan, Yosemite, or Mavericks, you can use a USB flash drive or other removable media as a startup disk from which to install OS X.
Really - try the above if you can, but as an alternative, here is a simple recipe for making a USB version of the OS X installer + associated tools. (Migration Assistant, Disk Utility, Network Utility, Terminal (that auto mounts your internal drive as needed), Firmware Utility and Password Reset Utility.
1) Use Disk Utility backup/restore to image whatever Snow Leopard DVD you prefer onto a HFS+ formatted GUID USB drive. I usually first create a IMG of the DVD, but it should work in one shot. Watch for restore errors - you may need the Disk Utility menu command Images -> Scan images for restore... before restoring an IMG to the USB drive.
2) bless the USB drive by selecting it in Startup Disk or using the command line. (Note - the manual page for bless may be moved, but the command still works on Mojave to bless an alternate boot. You can’t set this to be the default boot with System Integrity Protection but for this use, bless should still work.
It's not that hard to make a bootable image and far more secure to DIY. It also avoids the need of downloading commercial software from the internet. Happy media shifting all!
If you simply want a bootable thumb drive, just install OSX onto that volume - turning off all the extras you may not need. You can have your USB on one side and the USB install disk on the other to make your bootable drive ensuring all the Air drivers are on your USB bootable drive (which is often an issue when using another install's image - sometimes the drivers are not all there on older builds of the OS)
The best trick I have when you don't have enough space on USB to create the final updated version is to stage the bootable image by install first to a 25G partition on an external hard drive.
You can finish installing with lots of free space on the HS, run all the updates newer than your installer (10.6.8 for example), make an admin account, install the tools and apps you need. At the end of the process, you then thin out the things you don't need. DaisyDisk or WhatSize will show you all the large files and libraries. You can safely get rid of a lot of iLife and the associated Application Support. WhatSize has many options to strip out unneeded files, localizations and PPC code. Once you have slimmed down the bootable image on the HD partition, use the trick below to get it on the USB drive. Leopard was a tight fit in 8G but Snow Leopard is lighter and doesn't need to diet as much.
Edit: Here are terminal commands for rolling your own installer like the (read-only) one that ships with current MacBook Air. I have a Snow Leopard DVD as /dev/disk5 and my USB is /dev/disk6. The man pages for diskutil and asr are helpful if you run into little gotchas or have different needs than a basic one partition drive.
$diskutil list
/dev/disk5
#: TYPE NAME SIZE IDENTIFIER
0: Apple_partition_scheme *7.8 GB disk5
1: Apple_partition_map 30.7 KB disk5s1
2: Apple_Driver_ATAPI 1.0 GB disk5s2
3: Apple_HFS Mac OS X Install DVD 6.7 GB disk5s3
/dev/disk6
#: TYPE NAME SIZE IDENTIFIER
0: *8.5 GB disk6
$diskutil partitionDisk disk6 GPT HFS+ MacUSB 100%
Started partitioning on disk6
Unmounting disk
Creating partition map
Waiting for disks to reappear
Formatting disk6s2 as Mac OS Extended with name MacUSB
Finished partitioning on disk6
/dev/disk6
#: TYPE NAME SIZE IDENTIFIER
0: GUID_partition_scheme *8.5 GB disk6
1: EFI 209.7 MB disk6s1
2: Apple_HFS MacUSB 8.2 GB disk6s2
$sudo asr restore --source /dev/disk5s3 --target /dev/disk6s2 --erase
Validating target...done
Validating source...done
Erase contents of /dev/disk6s2 (/Volumes/MacUSB)? [ny]: y
Validating sizes...done
Restoring ....10....20....30....40....50....60....70....80....90....100
Verifying ....10....20....30....40....50....60....70....80....90....100
Remounting target volume...done
$sudo bless --mount /Volumes/Mac\ OS\ X\ Install\ DVD\ 1 --setBoot
Note: that the USB drive was renamed to be the same as the installer and the mount point in /Volumes has a space and a 1 tacked on the end.
Note: SIP ensures the —setBoot portion of the commands above will fail. Remove that portion and/or ignore any errors. You will need to select the USB another way than having bless perform a one step command. This is another reason to just use createinstallmedia from Apple to perform this.
A: Before you're able to create a bootable OS X installer, you'll need to do the following first:
*
*Download the OS X Installer app from the Mac App Store.
*Mount the volume you want to convert into a bootable installer. This could be removable media such as a USB flash drive, or a secondary internal partition.
*You can then use the createinstallmedia tool to convert the volume from step two into a bootable installer based off the installer app from step one. To learn how to use createinstallmedia see How to create a bootable installer for macOS.
For example, assuming you have a volume mounted at /Volumes/MyVolume and the OS X installer app is at /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ Mavericks.app you could erase /Volumes/MyVolume and convert it into a bootable installer with this command:
macOS Catalina
sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Catalina.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume
macOS Mojave
sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Mojave.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume
macOS High Sierra
sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ High\ Sierra.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume
macOS Sierra
sudo /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Sierra.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume --applicationpath /Applications/Install\ macOS\ Sierra.app
OS X El Capitan
sudo /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ El\ Capitan.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume --applicationpath /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ El\ Capitan.app
OS X Yosemite
sudo /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ Yosemite.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume --applicationpath /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ Yosemite.app
OS X Mavericks
sudo /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ Mavericks.app/Contents/Resources/createinstallmedia --volume /Volumes/MyVolume --applicationpath /Applications/Install\ OS\ X\ Mavericks.app
A: Just restored my flash stick with windows utility as described here
http://osxdaily.com/2011/07/04/format-the-macbook-air-usb-restore-key/
link for utility http://www.sendspace.com/file/xek3yk
don't try to do this through the Virtual Box, use native Win7
A: OK, it is Very easy to do if you can get your hands on the myriad of "ISO" OS X installers that make their way onto the internet shortly after any release.. or create an image your Installer disk yourself.... and simply restore it onto a separate partition of your USB flash drive.. all in good ole' Disk Utility...
they key is... DO NOT insert the *.dmg or *.iso file into the SOURCE box. Instead, INSERT THE VOLUME from the mounted image onto the source box in Disk Utility "Restore".
The only reason to use DD is if you are doing some crazy custom ISO nonsense, trying to fit the installer onto a 4GB stick.. This is how I made a 4GB rescue drive that I still use to this day "Snow Leo 911", it rocks... but if you've got room to spare... just partition that baby up and you'll be good to go.
Here's a pretty good write up of a similar approach. Cheers!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7152",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "40"
} |
Q: iPhone Search does not find historic SMS messages On my iPhone 4, I have a large number of SMS messages (I don't delete them at all).
If I want to search for text in a particular message, it appears not to search historic SMSes. In other words, unless the text is visible in the latest messages, viewable on the screen without tapping "Load Earlier Messages", it will not match my string.
Am I doing it wrong? Is this a known issue?
A: Apple does not search for very old text messages as it makes the search much slower. There is no setting to modify the period of messages it should go through, but if you really need this then you can jailbreak and SSH into your iPhone. You can then edit the .plist file and make it search for messages that are even 2 years old.
Note: This will significantly make the searching slow.
A: I know it isn't a solution for viewing on the iPhone but there is a program called DiskAid will allow you to view past messages on your computer. It uses your backup files from iTunes.
A: Spotlight search not working as expected.
Taken from engineerings reply on the issue:
———
"What the customer is experiencing is actually considered expected behaviour. With the release of iOS 10, customers are now only able to search the last 200 messages with Spotlight or the in app search. This would include the last 200 sent and received messages.
The 200 searchable messages limit is only after restoring from a backup prior to iOS 10. This is why devices that had the same Messages database and were not restored from a backup when they upgraded to iOS 10 can still search prior to the 200 limit.
If the customer would like to see this function in a different manner going forward, please encourage the customer to submit feedback at apple.com/feedback. “
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7153",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
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