text
stringlengths 12
210k
| meta
dict |
|---|---|
Q: International Power Converter I am going out of th country in a few weeks, and I am planning on taking my Macbook. I have a power adapter for the country I'm visiting, but it was bought for a PC. Will it work on a Mac?
A: You don't need a power converter, as Apple power supplies will all take 100-240V at 50 or 60 Hz, so a simple mechanical adaptor will do. Having said that, anything that will work with a PC power supply should also work with a Mac.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6098",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to shut down Apple TV (2G) remotly? Is there any way to shut down Apple TV (new, 2G, second generation) by remote controler?
I can do it by holding middle button on remote controller but only if the TV set is on. If I just listen to the internet radio without TV set on, I cannot do this.
A: If you notice, the "Sleep Now" menu entry for the AppleTV is in the lower right-hand corner of the menu system.
Here's how I do it:
*
*Press the "menu" button several times, until you hear the different audio sound to indicate that you're at the home screen.
*Press the "right" button several times, until you'd think that the cursor is over on the farthest right option.
*Press the "down" button several times, until you'd think that the cursor is at the "Sleep Now" option.
*Press the "middle" button.
I do this a lot when I am streaming music to the device; takes me about three seconds and it works.
A: You cannot shutdown the Apple TV 2G as the powersupply does not support it.
But you can hold Play / Pause for 6 seconds on the remote, then it will go into standby. From this state it is safe to remove power from the unit.
If you have SSH you can issue the command sudo shutdown -h now to activate standby.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6099",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Syncing iCal with Google calendar under 10.4? Is it possible to sync iCal on Tiger with Google calendar?
Upgrading to 10.5 isn't an option for my G5, but I'd love to be able to use iCal to access the years of calendar data I have on Google Calendar.
A: BusySync
Google Calendar Synchronization — Sync iCal with Google Calendar for online read-write access to your calendars from any computer, anywhere.
Requirements
*
*Mac OS X 10.4, or
*Mac OS X 10.5, or
*Mac OS X 10.6
A: Before upgrading to Leopard, I used GCALDaemon to sync calendars between iCal and Google. It isn't very user friendly and takes a bit to set up, but works pretty well once it is running.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6103",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What new iPhone App that lets you maintain a single list, star items and sort them? There was a new iPhone app released recently but I can't recall its name. It had some very simple features:
*
*Keep a single list of things
*Star items
*Sort those items so that stars rose to the top
What was its name? The app in question is not 1list.
A: Figured it out, it was LittleList
A: I was guessing it was Wunderlist.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6104",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Disable File System Cache for USB Devices?
Possible Duplicate:
Disable “the disk was not ejected properly” message
When I have a USB Device like a SD Card, USB Drive or external hard drive, I always need to unmount it, otherwise OS X complains about the device not being ejected properly.
On Windows, the solution to this is trivial: Disable the File System Cache for USB Drives, so that they can be immediately and safely removed.
Does OS X have a way to disable the cache?
A: On SuperUser Q&A another user asked a similar question. The solution is a little bit tricky/efforty:
This should be possible by manually mounting the drive via the terminal. You'll have to eject the drive when you plug it in and then remount it in the terminal using the noasync option.
The best way to go about this would be to run mount in the terminal and take down the device so you know what to remount. Then umount /dev/disk1s1 (where disk1s1 is the device name) then mount -o noasync /dev/disk1s1. This method would also apply to most linux distros.
As you can see, it's easier to just remember to eject.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6108",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: Is it possible to have GPL software in the Mac App Store? Can you have GPL software in Mac App Store?
I know this is not possible in the iPhone App Store, but is it the same situation in Mac App Store?
NOTE: None of the answers below should be considered legal advice. If you require a legal answer to this question, consult a lawyer.
A: I think the primary sticking point with the iOS App Store was the fact that even if you had the source code it wasn't possible to modify and redistribute an application to iOS devices without agreeing to Apple's iOS App Store terms, as that is the only way to get apps on the device.
The same is not true, however, with the Mac App Store - you could easily provide the source that people can use to modify and distribute the application outside of the Mac App Store, so I think there is no problem with GPL'd apps in the Mac App Store.
A: We have a GPL project which we'd like to distribute on the MAS. In my (non-lawyer) opinion it's probably OK to distribute on the MAS, but we may not take the risk with our project. It's a decade old project with none of the early developers involved anymore, so we need to be careful about perfectly following the GPL.
I think the primary sticking point with the iOS App Store was the fact that even if you had the source code it wasn't possible to modify and redistribute an application to iOS devices without agreeing to Apple's iOS App Store terms, as that is the only way to get apps on the device.
If you have Xcode, or if your device is jail broken, then you do not have to agree to the iOS App Store terms to distribute and install open source software. How does this not satisfy the GPL?
I realise you have to agree to a license to install Xcode, and many users are unwilling to jail break their device (I wont do it). But GPL doesn't require your software to be installable by everyone who downloads it. How is that any different from, say, distributing software that only runs on windows, which cannot be used by linux users unless they purchase a windows pc and agree to the included EULA?
The same is not true, however, with the Mac App Store - you could easily provide the source that people can use to modify and distribute the application outside of the Mac App Store, so I think there is no problem with GPL'd apps in the Mac App Store.
What exactly would the requirements be? Do you have to distribute both binary and source code outside the app store, or is just source code enough? Seems like you should be able to have a binary-only distribution on the app store, and a code-only distribution on your website (eg: google code).
Avoiding a second binary distribution would be nice, our team doesn't do binary releases as often as we should — simply because of all the work involved.
This mess is one more reason to change to MIT or BSD, a process we had already begun for other reasons, and are soon to complete. We should be fixing bugs, not discussing the legal restrictions dictating precisely how we give our work to the whole world.
A: If you mean taking software that you do not hold copyright to, and which you are only allowed to use and copy because it was licensed under the GNU GPL, then no.
The FSF spells it out here: section 6 of the GPL says "You may not impose any further restrictions on the recipients' exercise of the rights granted herein", and the Mac App Store Terms of Service explicitly add other restrictions.
The Software Freedom Law Center's legal representative confirmed this: the App Store agreements, on all platforms, are incompatible with the GNU GPL.
Apple seems to be disallowing GPL programs in the App Store as a matter of policy, but if you managed to sneak one through, then the author of the program could go after you for violating their copyright.
A completely different case is where you hold the copyright to a piece of software. In that case, you are welcome to distribute it under more than one license. (For example, Firefox was for a while licensed under the MPL, GPL, and LGPL. MySQL is licensed under the GPL and also a proprietary license.) So if you sell a program through the Mac App Store, you can also release it under the GPL -- assuming you are allowed to do each of these things independently.
(If you wanted to use somebody else's GNU GPL-licensed code in one of the App Stores, you could write to the copyright holder and see if they're willing to sell you an alternative license to their software. They're under absolutely no obligation to do this, of course.)
VLC ran into trouble (I think) because copyright for the software was held by many different people, and the whole program was only allowed to be distributed under the GPL. Some programs sidestep such issues by requiring contributors to assign copyright to them, but most don't.
A: I am going to disagree with the sentiment that GPL code cannot be included in either App Store. (as well as stir the pot a bit with no offense to anyone who has answered this so far in good faith!)
Of course anyone CAN take code that is GPL and send it to the app store. Apple has no way to know what code you used unless you somehow embed the license file in the binary. You or someone else has to call their attention to that fact.
Apple's license linked from the Mac App store currently runs 16.7k words in length and allows for a third party license to be different and bind you in addition to their licenses.
The GPLv3 currently runs 5.2k words - many of which are openly intended to combat DRM and adding restrictions not expressly already a part of GPL (say like an N-device limitation)
It's clear that both the license that Apple attaches to Mac App store and iTunes App store isn't any version of GPL. It's also clear both are intended to be binding legal documents.
So a simple "can you have..." question boils down to several implied questions:
*
*Do Apple's terms and conditions for App Store distribution preclude you from using code obtained under a GPL license?
*Does GPL prevent you from distribution channels that use DRM or don't include verbatim (and solely) GPL licensing in the terms of sale / use.
*Is it probable that:
*
*That they are in some (or any) way compatible?
*That it will get caught?
*That there will be repercussions for going down that path?
All the non-lawyers here (me included) are barking at the moon, dancing around questions of the legality of very specific licenses governing intellectual property and copyright. The barking is intelligent and well-meant, but barking nonetheless.
Pretending that GPL is a free ride and comes with no restrictions is naive - it is intended as a legal document with real teeth. I don't intend to insult anyone - just point out how inadequate even a good faith attempt at trying to answer this question will be.
A: You clearly and evidently can have GPL software in the iOS App Store — WordPress being one of the more prominent examples (1). It also wasn't Apple who objected to VLC in the iOS App Store; it was one of VLC's developers (and there was a heavy debate on the mailing list about whether his interpretation was correct).
For the Mac App Store, I'll lean even closer to it not being an issue. Unlike on iOS, anyone can inspect, modify, compile and run your GPL'd code for free on a Mac; there is no need to pay $99/yr, or to agree to Apple's ADC policies.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6109",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "47"
} |
Q: is there any way to have Facebook or Twitter update in the background on my iPod touch? I have an iPod touch. I want to know if there is any way to have my Facebook or Twitter feeds update in the background?
I often grab my iPod from my home (with WiFi) and then go into the train (no WiFi) and want to see what was posted recently or when I was sleeping.
It seems like these apps only do a "fetch" once you start the app up.
Is there any work around for this so it's always updating if i am on a WiFi network?
A: You can either leave one of the apps open at night so it will refresh or get something like Boxcar, which would be a solution more fitting to your needs. Boxcar will push notifications from facebook and Twitter, and then you can launch Boxcar to see the updates.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6111",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Reviving a dead iPod Touch 8GB (2nd gen?) I have an iPod Touch 8GB (probably 2nd gen) that stopped working. By this I mean that it cannot be turned on, an doesn't show any sign of activity when connected to the PC, a docking station and other chargers. Of course iTunes does not recognize the device when plugged in to the PC. This happened, without prior signs of a coming malfunction, about 2 months after I bought it, used, during the last summer.
What are my options in trying to bring it back to life? At the moment, buying a new iPod Touch is not an option.
A: Try leaving it connected to a PC or Mac for several hours. If the Battery is completely empty, it will take some time to turn on. Happens to my 8GB iPod (which is not used much anymore) every time I leave it disconnected for 2 weeks or more.
THe only other option I can think of is trying to use a tool called RecBoot to boot the iPod into recovery mode. I don't know if that works (never needed it) and where to download it, but it's the only other option that would come to my mind.
A: If you're sure its charged (try at least 3 combinations of computer->cables, or cable->chargers in case a charger or cable is broken) you should take it to your local Apple store. They will diagnose the problem and fix it if it's in warranty for free. Although you bought it last summer you say it is a Second gen, which means it's probably not in warranty. They will tell you all your options.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6117",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Syncing Contacts and iCal between multiple Macs and iOS? I have a two Macs, an iPod Touch and an iPad, so 4 devices in total.
I wonder if there is a way to sync contacts and ical calendars between these devices automatically (or in case of the iPod/iPad when they are connected to a mac).
So far, I'm seeing these options:
*
*MobileMe - seems really expensive for what it offers and stores data in the cloud
*Mac OS X Server - requires a dedicated machine and is also not cheap
*Syncing with Google Contacts and Calendars - requires the data to go to the cloud, but is free
Is there anything that simply allows me to sync from Mac to Mac to iOS through my local network?
A: I've been extremely happy with iCloud syncing between MacBook Pro, iPhone, and iPad. Once set up it works flawlessly and reliably unlike MobileMe which I had for years and was useful but never totally trustworthy. iCloud really is a great solution for syncing address book and calendar and reminders. I'm also enjoying it's syncing of bookmarks and other safari browser data.
My only caveat about it is that some MobileMe users have had some issues in doing the move. None of these issues to my knowledge have been unsolveable but there have been some bumps. For users with an Apple ID and no legacy of MobileMe use it's extremely smooth to set up.
All iOS devices need to be running iOS 5, Macs need latest version of Lion.
http://www.apple.com/icloud/setup/
A: I'm using Google Calendars and Contcts for this, it works really well. My iPhone has been set up with Google sync, so the calendar/contact updates get pushed automatically (when there's a network connection).
A: The iOS devices will sync with a Mac when they're connected to it and you sync via iTunes, so we don't need to worry about those.
MarkSpace's SyncTogether product will allow you to sync your calendars and address book (and some other stuff) between the Macs. BusySync (or its big brother BusyCal) will do the calendars but not the address book. Fruux does calendars and address books, but its in beta and I know nothing about its reliability. But none of those is free -- I don't know of any free options other than syncing via Google.
A: For calendars you might want to look into BusyCal (if you really don't want your data in the cloud).
Otherwise go with iCloud (the MobileMe replacement). It's free and syncs a lot more than just contacts and calendars.
A: This is the Calender Server from OS X Server that works on normal OS X fine. It's fairly simple, the instructions are included.
http://www.macosforge.org/post/calendar-and-contacts-server/
A: For information about the full article "Mac OS X and iOS Syncing with Google"
http://devicegadget.com/apple/mac-os-ios-syncing-google/1214/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6127",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: afp over wireless lan extremely slow I’m connecting from one MacBook Pro (10.6.5) (let’s call it “1”) to another (10.4.11) “2” via WLAN and afp and both are connected to the WLAN via WPA2.
The router is showing me theoretical connection speeds of 104 MBit/s for “1” and 54 MBit/s for “2”. However, when I’m trying to transfer files (doesn’t matter whether I use drag & drop in Finder or cp in the terminal), it takes eternities: 70 seconds for a 2.1 MB file (~ 250 KBit/s if I didn’t make a mistake). The network activity monitor looks like this during the transfer:
(There’s no other significant network activity going on.)
Clearly, this is off by several orders of magnitude. Does somebody have a clue what could cause this?
Other network traffic works normal on both MacBooks. As far as I know, I have made no special configurations.
A: Radio interference? How many other wifi spots are nearby? How many are using the same channel as you? Does this only happen with AFP or does it happen with other protocols as well (e.g., HTTP, CIFS, etc)? Are you using A/B/G/N?
What's the memory usage look like on both systems? Is one (or both) maxed out? The traffic seems very bursty. This could indicate that one or both sides can't buffer the stream properly (i.e., not enough free memory).
Do you have the same problems when configured to use an Ad Hoc network? If not then the problem is your WAP.
A: You should try the transfer in FTP only because FTP sets it's own "MTU". If this sends files very quickly, you are looking at a TCP fragmentation issue, i.e., you are sending TCP packets too large for the router to handle on it's own. I imagine you can tweak the Mac network settings to force fragmentation to 1500 or less per packet.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6130",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Controlling a Mac remotely Is it possible to control the Mac remotely?
My parents live in different country other than where I'm living now, I think about giving one of my Mac to my parents to use iChat. As my parents are not good at using computers, I need to control the Mac remotely.
Is there any software tool for it?
A: There are a lot!
LogMeIn is one of them, which has the benefit to have a web interface and doesn't need your parents computer to have a fixed IP. You install the client on their computer, register it and then you'll be able to control it via your interface.
Give it a look, it's quite good. The free version doesn't have all advanced features (obviously) but it's quite enough for remote help of parents' computers (I use it for this same purpose and I also do it for computers in Canada while I'm in Europe!)
A: A number of good solutions have been posted.
For completeness sake, I want to mention something that easily lets you see, if not control, the remote computer. Skype lets you "share the desktop", which sends an image of the user's computer over as if it were a video chat.
It's not as good as actual control, I will agree, but it's cross-platform and can help out a lot in a pinch.
A: The Mac comes with the server part of the software built-in for "Apple Remote Desktop"; They can be viewed and managed remotely if you have the client software. For most of us that's too expensive a solution, so an alternate is to use VNC. Check out JollysFastVNC and Chicken of the VNC.
Also, iChat, which comes with the Macs, can do screen sharing, which might be all you need. Check out "Share and share alike." from Apple's iChat site and "Sharing your screen with a buddy".
A: I have used logmein, teamviewer, ichat and teamviewer emerged winner due to its simplicity and availability of a free iPhone app as a bonus! Try them all, simple and easy.
A: Here's a step by step (the free, reliable route):
*
*Download "Vine server" and install it on your mac.
*Go to dyndns.org (dynamic DNS), register, and create a free domain name pointer for yourself. This will create a hostname that points to your house's ip address all the time (ie bill.dyndns.org --> 123.123.123.123).
*Once you get a dyndns domain name, login to your router and put your login information in for the domain name you just got from dyndns. Look around, there should be a page for DDNS. If there's not, then grab the dyndns software.
*While in your router, open up a port for vnc. The default for VNC is 5900.
*Restart VNC server.
*Now, from outside of the mac's house, grab a vnc client... there are many. A good one for PC is vncviewer, tightvnc, others. Just google PC or MAC free VNC client.
*Open the client vnc, put in your dyndns hostname as the IP, and the port is 5900.
A: (I'm going to mention this for completeness rather than because I think you'd actually use it).
There's a product called Timbuktu which is a bit more hard-core than LogMeIn, VNC and Remote Desktop, but really it does something very similar.
It's a paid-for program (and not really that cheap, to be fair) but it does work BRILLIANTLY, it's fast, you can get compatible Windows versions (so Mac-Mac, Mac-Windows, Windows-Windows etc) and it makes a decent job of useful things like file transfers, clipboard syncing and handling different screen resolutions etc.
I've used Timbuktu to remotely control my office Mac from my laptop for a couple of years now and I'm a very happy customer.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6133",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Adding an entry to the hosts file on iPod touch 4G? Is it possible to add an entry to your /etc/hosts type file (or whatever the equivalent is) on an iPod Touch 4G without jail breaking it?
A: No, there's no access to system-level files without jailbreaking.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6137",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: I want to play one podcast only on iPod Touch, but they play in series one after the other I download multiple podcasts from one source, eg, five episodes of Naked Scientists. I want to listen to one only, but when the first finishes it automatically goes to the second, and third etc.
I want to listen to just one episode at a time and have the iPod Touch turn off when it is finished (this is a sleep-aid for my insomnia...I don't want it playing all night !)
A "Genius" suggested making playlists, but although you can make a podcast playlist, it does NOT sync.
A: With iOS 4, you can make a playlist directly on your device. Go to the Music app, then Playlists, then "Add Playlist...". Type in the name for the playlist, hit Save, and you're presented with a screen to add items to the playlist. Select "Podcasts" (by default, it's found under "More") and select the item you want to play. Tap "Done".
You're all set - just select the item from the playlist and only that item will play.
A: Use the On-The-Go playlist and add the one podcast episode to it. Works from at least iOS 3 or possibly before.
You don't event need to clear the existing playlist, because adding a track will add to the end, so just start from that track and it will stop at the end (unless you have repeat on).
A: You should be able to do this with a smart playlist. Set it up with the following rule:
- Name is {the podcast's name}
- Plays is 0
Limit it to 1 item, selected by least recently added.
Check the "live updating" box.
This should give you a playlist with one track - the oldest unheard episode of the podcast.
I've used a variation on this and it is able to sync to my iPhone (once I selected it to be included in the sync).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6138",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Remember desktop state after reboot Does anyone know if desktop switching can be done programatically? Exposé activation and deactivation? I know of the screencapture command for the last part of my proposed solution.
I would like to be able to restore my desktop work environment after a reboot. I have one idea how to do this.
Reason: I reboot every 2 - 4 weeks. I have 9 virtual desktops, each with a few to a dozen windows and applications. After a computer reboot it feels like a brain reboot and takes a few days to get everything back.
Concept: Manually prior to a planned reboot, or perhaps once a day via cron in case of accidental reboot or system freeze, I'd like to somehow capture the system state in order make recovery post-reboot easier.
Ideal Solution: I prefer the CLI. My ideal solution would be a text file of open files on each desktop, and terminal windows on each desktop, and what folder those terminal windows are in. I could then write a script that would go to desktop 1, open all the PDFs there in Preview, open all the .m files in AquaMacs, and open the terminals and cd them to the correct folder, etc. Repeat for each desktop.
I think AppleScript could easily tell me what PDFs are open in Preview.app, but I don't think it can tell me what desktop they are on. Same with Terminal.app
Proposed Solution: Screenshots of each Desktop while in Exposé mode.
Is there a way to script switching from Desktop #1 through Desktop #9, where at each Desktop, it activates Exposé and takes a screenshot?
Now, after a reboot, I can at least go to a folder, open the 9 screenshots, and manually see what application and what files were open where.
A: do you ever try Relaunch application:
Relaunch saves you time by taking Snapshots of which applications you are using, and starts them back up for you. Think of it as a launcher on steroids that lets you switch between work contexts with one click.
you can take a snapshot before restart your system and after that double click on the snapshot you created then it restored all your files and application you worked on.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6139",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I stop OS X from switching Spaces when the mouse cursor is at the edge of the screen? Mac OS X Spaces change when I hold the mouse at the edge of the screen. Is there an application or 'defaults' command to disable this?
Warp looks like it might help, but hasn't changed the behavior for me, even though I tried turning it off, or setting a modifier key.
A: I found a solution. The following sets the delay to 1 minute.
defaults write com.apple.dock workspaces-edge-delay -float 60 && killall Dock
source: Leopard: Lower the window drag delay between spaces
A: OS X - Snow Leopard seems to have two states when it comes to the switching behavior. Dragging a window or not dragging a window. If you are not dragging a window, it ignores your mouse hovering at a side. This makes sense, or the dock and hot corners would be very hard to use. When you are dragging a window, it auto-switches workspaces if you hang around at a side. This also makes sense.
Sometimes though, it seems to get confused about if you're dragging a window or not. When this happens, even if you aren't dragging a window, it still flips workspaces if you hover the mouse on a side, thereby making the dock and hot corners very hard to use.
In order to reset this state, I figured out that you can pick up a window, drag it around a bit, then let go. This seems to reset its "you're currently dragging a window" state with respect to workspace switching.
A: It only switches when you're actively dragging something and linger on the edge of the screen for several seconds. Simply hovering shouldn't change anything.
A: I am using Warp successfully to do that. I've checked "Enable Warp" and "Click screen edge to Warp". When I touch an edge, I get a small window surrounding the cursor that either shows a tiny view of the adjacent space and its windows, or says "No windows" -- is that what you're seeing? At that point, clicking will change spaces, or you can back away from the edge to remain in the same space.
Edit: Oops - I have to backtrack. My answer applies to just the mouse cursor, not to dragging a window. I see the same behavior you describe if I drag a window to the edge and hover there holding it: Spaces will switch repeatedly until I back the cursor off of the edge.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6141",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "22"
} |
Q: Some applications on MacBook Pro think Internet is not connected when it is I have had my MacBook Pro for about 6 months; bought it new in 2010. I am running Mac OS 10.6.5.
Using Airport to connect to the Internet. Had no problems until this last week, when at an apparently random moment, some applications (e.g. Safari, iTunes, Adium and Tweetie) decide the Internet is no longer connected. The message from Safari is the standard "You are not connected to the Internet."
Pinging different hosts on the Internet works completely fine, and I can browse without any issue on Firefox.
Network Diagnostics reports that the Internet is connected. Turning Airport on and off, and closing and rebootting the applications doesn't seem to help.
I did manage to fix the problem with a reboot but would rather find the underlying issue and a better solution. Can anyone out there help?
A: Just stabbing in the dark here - DNS? Or rather, the relation of Safari towards DNS (since you mentioned that Firefox was working fine).
I know that Safari takes on the system wide proxy settings and firefox has its own - another possible avenue why firefox works when safari doesn't.
Maybe you could try opening two new tabs when the issue occurs again and try accessing http://72.30.2.43 and www.yahoo.com on the second tab. Perhaps we could help eliminate DNS with that test.
Muck around the system proxy settings is another possible investigation route.
A: I've had this issue on my Macbook as well and found that if you go into terminal and clear the cache it loads the pages again.
Type dscacheutil -flushcache
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6147",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: OS X 10.6 : Automating new system provisioning with scripts I've been working on this for days but simply cannot find the correct references to make it work.
The idea is to have a script that will baseline newly purchased Macs that comes into the company with basic stuffs like set autologin to off, create a new admin user (for remote admins to access for support, set password to unlock screensaver and etc) .
Sample list for baseline that admins have to do on each new machine:
Click the Login Options button
Set Automatic Login: OFF
Check: Show the Restart, Sleep, and Shutdown buttons
Uncheck: Show input menu in login window
Uncheck: Show password hints
Uncheck: Use voice over in the login window
Check: Show fast user switching menu as Short Name
(note: this is only part of a long list to do on each machine)
I've managed to find some references to make some parts work. Like autologin can be unset with "defaults write /Library/Preferences/.GlobalPreferences com.apple.userspref.DisableAutoLogin -bool TRUE" and I've kinda found ways to muscle in a new user creation (including prompts) with applescript and shell commands.
But generally its tough finding ways to do somewhat simple things like turn on password to get out of screensaver or to allow fast user switching. References are either too limited or just no where to be seen (e.g. i can unset autologin via cli but the very next setting on the system preference "show restart, sleep and shutdown buttons" is somewhere else and i can't find any command line to make it set)
Does anyone have any ideas on a list, document, reference or anything of where each setting on the system resides so that I can be pointed to make it work? or maybe sample scripts for the above example...
My thanks for reading thus far - a huge thank you for whoever that has any info on the above.
A: There is a better way to do this. The IT department at my company maintains a disk image with all of the settings in place they need to administer the Macs when they are received-including software in place registered with site licenses. They open the Macs and simply replace what's on the hard drive with the disk image.
Scripting is a logical path, but scripting System Preferences is a real bear because you have to go with GUI Scripting which is rife with problems, the least of which trying to decipher UIElementInspector to get what you need.
A: You're talking about things that would probably be easier to do with a mix UI scripting, and scripting System Preferences.UI scripting is where you write an AppleScript that opens System Preferences and clicks buttons. Scripting System Preferences directly is where you talk to the app. Support for this is... patchy. You can use one where the other fails.
Here is some info about scripting System Preferences. Some info on UI scripting SysPrefs is here, and better examples can be downloaded here (direct link). They are installed to your ~/Library/Scripts/System Preferences folder.
Hope this helps. You can post back with specific questions
A: Even if you can't script all these change, try a different approach:
*
*Make the changes on your computer
*Find out what files/folders are modified by these changes
*Ship these few files to the remote computers with instructions (or a script) that copies them to the correct locations
A: From my experience, there are 2 ways to go:
1: create a "master"-image and distribute it on to your new Macs (I do this through NetRestore) which takes more time to invest in the beginning but is easier to handle for your Windows-admins to handle (just re-imaging a Mac is easy)
2: Download Apples Server Admin Tools, install them on a fresh Mac and use the Workgroup Manager to configure the "localhost" settings the way you want them. Those MCX settings then can be exported and it´s easier to cope with system updates (you don´t have to re-create a new "master"-image)
For more information I´d suggest reading through www.afp548.com and www.macenterprise.org - they have loads of information on these topics.
A: thank you folks - coming from someone who has almost zero knowledge of supporting macs on an enterprise level, i really appreciate all the replies. for one, it has broadened the spectrum of how and what I can do to achieve the said target is.
i've took up most of your pointers and they have forked into many other areas of exploration and learning of ways and means to get the job at hand done. i've decided on a "blended" solution that kinda gets it done - provision with applescript, calling in a shell script and a little bit of UI scripting all done within a single double clickable executable - that should help with the pressure of quick roll out for now.
I am working on laying on the imaging route for our next big wave of macs coming in as i type now :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6149",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What's a good iTunes alternative to use with my iPod nano 6g? I'm looking for an iTunes alternative for my new iPod nano 6g.
I've used sharepod before but it doesn't work with the nano 6g—I can upload songs but they're not being recognized by the iPod database.
Any ideas on alternatives that work with the nano 6g?
A: Mediamonkey is a good alternative on Windows, the nano 6th gen is present in the list of compatible devices.
A: If you're using Windows, try DoubleTwist. (Not sure if it supports Apple products on OS X yet.)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6158",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How can I get the load average (and only the load average) on Mac OS X? On all linux boxes /proc/loadavg contains the raw load for 1, 5, and 15 minutes. Nothing extra. On OS X machines this file does not exist.
Is there a file or a terminal command which will give me the 1, 5 and 15 minute load averages under OS X, similar to /proc/loadavg on Linux? I know top and w display the load averages but they have a lot more information too. I want just the load averages.
A: You can also use this sysctl:
sysctl -n vm.loadavg
A: Take the commands you know (top, uptime, w, etc.) and use other tools to reduce to just the data you want.
An example for w:
w | head -n1 | cut -d":" -f4
An example for uptime:
uptime | cut -d":" -f4- | sed s/,//g
An example of loads.d:
sudo loads.d | awk '/./ { printf "%.2f %.2f %.2f\n", $7, $8, $9 }'
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6161",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "19"
} |
Q: How can I automatically start the Safari Reader? Is there a way to tell Safari to automatically use Reader when it recognizes an article which it is able to display with Reader?
Right now I have to manually click the Reader button at the right side of the address bar.
A: I've tried to figure this out myself, and haven't yet come up with a way to load safari-resource:/Reader.html programmatically.
If necessary, I fall back to Readability, the 3rd-party Safari add-on Apple used as their basis for Reader. Combined with Safari Stand, I can modify the appearance of pages when they load.
A: Try CMD + SHFT + R to save the effort of the precision mouse motion.
A: I've built a Safari extension for this. Download it from here:
http://finbarrbrady.com/2013/09/auto-reader-for-safari/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6165",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can I play audio from my iPhone on my Mac? Can I attach my iPhone 3GS to my Mac Pro so that the iPhone's audio plays through the Mac Pro's speakers?
I can easily attach my Bose headphones so that the music from the iPhone plays through them… that's cool… but I want others to hear the music through my Mac Pro's speaker system.
A: You can play your iPhone's music out your mac via iTunes. You don't even have to be in sync with that iTunes library, just plug it in, navigate to your music, and press play.
If you're talking about like game audio coming out your mac's speakers... I'd take your speakers and plug them straight into the phone. There's no way I know of to use the mac as an audio route from the phone.
A: The LineIn free app worked great.
The Rogue Amoeba product LineIn is an excellent free utility for listening to external audio.
Advantages over QuickTime Player
LineIn has several advantages:
*
*LineIn has lower (nearly none!) audio lag, whereas QuickTime Player has about ~500ms of increased audio latency.
*Does not shift to the wrong speed/pitch issue; this is a problem that sometimes manifests with QuickTime Player.
*Does not replace the top bar with 9:41 AM and 100% Battery.
How To
*
*After plugging the iPhone on your Mac (via Lightning/USB), enable the audio device in Audio Midi Setup.app:
*Launch the LineIn.app, and select iPhone as the input source:
*Hit Play Thru and you're done!
Notes
*
*Make sure the iPhone is not muted.
*Step one will need to be done again once the iPhone is unplugged and plugged back in.
A: Run Airfoil Speakers on your mac..it'll then allow you to airplay just like you would to an apple TV or airport express. You do have to be on the same wifi network for this to work.
A: Simple, and simply surprising:
*
*First, check that you have enabled the iPhone/iPad as an audio input device in Audio Midi Setup.app:
*Plug in your iPhone to your Mac using your Lightning Cable (doesn't work with 30 pin iPhones, sorry. [Yes I know you said 3GS])
*Launch QuickTime Player
*Choose File> New Audio Recording
*Click the hard-to-see down arrow next to the Record 'button', choose iPhone under 'Microphone'
*Play your music, game whatever on your iPhone, sound will come thru your Mac.
No need to hit record, the sound will play even if you don't record. Just turn up the volume.
Note: for those who want a louder volume, go to the system preferences on your Mac. Then go to the sound settings and you can increase the output volume so it is louder.
A: If your iPhone is running (I think) 4.0 or above, I think most machines should be able to mount the phone and play the music through iTunes.
A: The solution is to use Miccuss or some other Bluetooth audio receiver to receive the audio via Bluetooth and pass the signal via cable to the Mac's audio input.
Miccuss works perfectly, the sound is pristine.
I am not sure why Apple can't (or won't) enable Mac's to receive audio from Bluetooth devices even when the service seem to be available in the Bluetooth profile (handsfree gateway). MS Windows Bluetooth support handsfree gateway in a hassle free way which gives it a versatility score in this area over Mac.
A: To Play Music
*
*Plug in iPhone to computer via USB
*Open iTunes
*Click iPhone button in iTunes near the the top left
*Under Settings on the left there is On My Device
*Click Music, you should see all the music on your phone on the right.
*Play that funky music.
A: I tried all recommended with no sound output on a macbook pro. What worked for me is to use VLC player on the mac as follows:
*
*Enable iPhone in the Audio MIDI Setup (see "Utilities" folder in Finder)
*Open VLC Player:
File -> “Open Capture Device”
Click Audio and select iPhone from the dropdown list
Start playing on iPhone and listen on your mac! :)
A: Sound from Apps
There are probably multiple ways to do this. Perhaps some could use the existing iPhone connector. But certainly if you get a male to male headphone adapter, you could take the audio out of the iPhone and into the audio input (mic) on the desktop, then use Audacity or another program to play the sound from the mic input
Music from iPhone
In iTunes, select your iPhone on the left column. Select music. Play.
A: I know where this question is coming from. I sometimes like to plug my iPhone into the USB cable so it keeps being charged while I also like to play some type of videos like Periscope on the phone at all time. This leads to a problem that the AUX output from the iPhone will have background hiss noise because the USB port being plugged in.
So having the phone playing audio via the USB is the only method that can give you high quality audio output.
But unfortunately there is no commercially available method to create a USB audio receiver on OSX. But, there is an alternative. First, you must enable the iPhone's hotspot via USB. This can be done through purchasing hotspot plan from your wireless carrier or other illegal methods. Second, you must install a wireless audio receiver software like airfoil or airserver on your OSX. Third, you must enable the USB connection on your OSX's system setting under network. The name of such connection can be vary and unpredictable. Take your best guest. Fourth, enabling the audio playback on your iPhone via airplay. If you don't see the airplay, it means the connection isn't established successfully. Repeat the entire process until it does. It might never run successfully because of a number of reasons that can only be explained through a very long essay, of which I would not replicate here and now, and the connection may break after being established.
Note this method will slow down your OSX sometimes quite dramatically.
A: Turn a MacBook into an AirPlay receiver w/ macOS Monterey
Fortunately, there is now a better way. Installing MacOS Monterey
(launching today) adds a feature dubbed ‘AirPlay to Mac’ which turns
any MacBook or iMac into an AirPlay receiver. To activate ‘AirPlay to
Mac’, simply check the tickbox in the ‘Sharing’ preferences pane: the
MacBook/iMac will now accept AirPlay audio streams from any iPhone or
iPad running iOS 15 or iPadOS 15 (or later). ‘AirPlay to Mac’ also
works with video content.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6173",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "60"
} |
Q: Which iPod has the best sound quality? I'd like to know if an iPod classic is a better investment than an iPod touch? I am really more into music than apps and games. If you have some other suggestions about great-sounding mp3 players I'd like to hear it.
A: The 5th generation and earlier have the best sound because they use the Wolfson chips. (see this article for more info)
A: I got an iPod Classic for Christmas to replace my aging iPod Mini (1st generation). The sound difference between the two is very obvious. I have a couple different sets of in-ear and over the ear headphones, all at least $100, that I used with the Mini, and with the Classic I'm hearing new stuff with every song.
I attribute this to faster CPUs and better algorithms but I haven't checked to see how different the CPUs are.
A: All current iPods support the same:
Frequency response: 20Hz to 20,000Hz
Audio formats supported: AAC (8 to 320
Kbps), Protected AAC (from iTunes
Store), HE-AAC, MP3 (8 to 320 Kbps),
MP3 VBR, Audible (formats 2, 3, 4,
Audible Enhanced Audio, AAX, and
AAX+), Apple Lossless, AIFF, and WAV
This is from the Apple iPod tech specs page.
So, since they all support the same bitrates and formats, the quality does not change between models.
Get whichever you want. The real sound quality difference will come from your speakers or headphones.
Note: If you want the best sound, use the Apple Lossless format.
A: Whoever will tell you the devices have the same sound output capabilities is certainly not an audiophile or is simply someone who needs an ears'check. I own an iPod Touch 2G, an iPod Nano 7th Gen, iPod Classic 5th Gen, iPhone 4S, iPhone 6s, iPad Air 2. The best, crisper, crystal clear sound, after testing all devices with the same FLAC album, same headphones and no equalizers enabled, the best audio quality comes out from the iPod Classic.
Period.
A: If you are not considering the speaker of the iPod Touch itself, the music is happening on a different device. The only considerations then are whether the player can handle the music you throw at it, considering sample rate, bit rate, and compression. Cheaper MP3 players, for example, could only handle 128 kbit/s, which wouldn't technically sound as good as 192 kbit/s. CD quality sound is 44.1 kHz and ~1,400 kbit/s. The MP3 is compressed, so the bit rate is obviously less.
The other consideration is whether your player's flash can be upgraded. The downside to this is having it run very slowly.
Another consideration is how you will use it, whether it will be jogging or setting in a cradle to a bigger sound system.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6178",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Video out on iPod dock: pre-iOS versus iOS I have an iPod dock with Video Out. It says on the box that it only supports pre-iOS devices for that (iPod classic and the like), and it certainly does not seem to do anything with my iPod Touch (audio and remote control work fine, though).
Is this something that can be solved with an additional (cheap) adapter, or are the two Video Out systems fundamentally different?
A: Unfortunately, the old video output is not compatible with iOS devices, even with an adapter. To see, why, here's a diagram of the iPod dock connector pinout. Notice that there are some video output pins that are only used for older iPods.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6180",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: MobileMe bookmark sync with Opera I am forced to use Opera instead of Safari on windows, and would like to sync my bookmarks with MobileMe. Is this at all possible?
A: Not with MobileMe's built in sync function, it only works with Safari.
You could use Opera's Link, which might work ok for what you're after -
Can I use other browsers to access my bookmarks?
Yes, you can log into a web-based user interface using Opera browsers, including Opera for Mac/PC, Opera Mobile or Opera Mini. You can also access your bookmarks using other Web browsers like Internet Explorer, Firefox or Safari. (Opera faq)
A: Like dropbox, you could simlink the Opera bookmark file into your iDisk. Something like ln -s /Users/.../bookmark.dat /Volumes/iDisk/bookmark.dat
If you want cross-browser bookmark sync - wait for xmarks or similar to come to both of those browsers, so far ti's probably only firefox and chrome.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6183",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I switch option (alt) and command (windows) keys for Windows 7 in Boot Camp? Installed Windows 7 via Bootcamp for some work-related projects. I've also installed the Apple Bootcamp drivers from the OS X install disk and updated to the latest version. It mapped all my keys just fine, but I was surprised it does not offer an option to switch the mappings of Alt and Windows keys; ie. Alt is left of Spacebar, Windows key is left of Alt.
The current way directly maps to the physical keyboard layout, but not to the way people are used to working: e.g. OS X's Command+Tab for window switching is equivelant to Alt+Tab not Windows+Tab. I keep hitting the wrong keys because of muscle memory. :)
Is there a built-in way to remap Windows and Alt keys? If not, what 3rd party app is the best way to do this?
A: Here is a script file for the Apple keyboard with F hotkeys and CMD hotkeys too.
https://github.com/stroebjo/autohotkey-windows-mac-keyboard
A: I didn't like Sharp Keys because it requires a restart to swap mappings. Other AutoHotKey scripts here had too much extra stuff for my needs. This AutoHotKey script is only the win key swap, plus a hotkey to turn it off (ctrl+F6) if you also occasionally use a Windows keyboard.
A: I had this issue. Resolved it using Sharp Keys (free).
*
*http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/map-any-key-to-any-key-on-windows-xp-vista/
A: I've been using AutoHotKey for about a year on Win7 Ultimate x64. Works great.
In addition to swapping the left Command and Option keys, I've remapped the right Command to forward delete, and right Option to "AppsKey" (aka, context menu) which helps in Visual Studio and other apps.
If you want function keys to work as, well, function keys (without having to hold down Fn), you can set that in the Bootcamp application via the system tray icon.
Here's a script just for swapping left Option (alt) and Command (Windows):
RAlt::AppsKey ; right-Option to context menu
RWin::Del ; right command to forward delete
LWin::LAlt ; left command to alt
LAlt::LWin ; left alt to command (windows key)
You may also consider remapping Caps Lock if you need an additional key since, really, how often do any of us use Caps Lock?
A: I would like to share a trick that you can remap some less used keys to keys you prefer. E.g. I map right CMD to DEL and right ALT to menu('application'), using Sharpkeys
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6184",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "18"
} |
Q: File location of kernel extensions? Is there an easy way to make the mapping from kernel extension to the file it came from?
I can get the list of currently loaded kernel extension via kextstat. This gives me the bundle names, like com.AmbrosiaSW.AudioSupport or jp.plentycom.driver.SteerMouse. But how can I then find the actual file locations of these bundles? For example, the Ambrosia bundle is AmbrosiaAudioSupport.kext, and I can only find the bundle name in the Info.plist inside that bundle. I could grep the /System/Library/Extensions/ directory, but this does not necessarily contain extensions loaded after booting, and I assume there is a better way to do it?
A: You can use kextfind -b <bundlename> to find the file defining a kext you only know the bundle name of.
EDIT: newer versions of kextfind need a -print predicate to show output. Example updated below.
For example:
kextfind -b com.AmbrosiaSW.AudioSupport -print
A: See kextfind
A: Try About this mac -> System report -> Software section -> Extensions.
It shows the filepath upon selecting an extension.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6185",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "14"
} |
Q: iPhone restarts frequently whilst tethering via. USB When tethering via. USB on my iPhone 4 (4.2.1) with my MacBook Pro (10.6.5) I frequently encounter:
*
*my iPhone freezes with either a black screen (hard reset) or a frozen screen (hard reset)
*my iPhone restarts itself and reestablishes its internet connection
I can go for an hour or two without a problem, or it might happen after a few seconds. There seems to be a correlation between the amount of data I'm pulling and the frequency of the crash.
I'm using Vodafone New Zealand's 3G network. Tethering is a free feature (using our existing data) here, and we don't need to do anything to enable it. Tethering worked a charm on my old iPhone 3G.
The problem seems to be a common one.
Has anyone encountered this problem and found a fix, or, has anyone called Apple about it to submit a bug report?
A: Try restoring/updating your phone to the newest firmware from apple. (4.3)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6186",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Save and restore arrangement of apps
I would like to experiment with the arrangement of my apps on my iPod touch. Using folders more extensively. However at the moment I have a quite well working layout. If the experiments proof to be worse than my current layout I would like to go back there easily.
Can I somehow save the current layout of my home screens?
Regards
Mike
A: The only thing that comes to mind mind are screen shots.
A: You can try to backup your iPhone in iTunes, and if things aren't working, go back to that backup.
This article on the Apple support site sums it up.
And this image explains it quite clearly.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6188",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I set an external display (monitor) as the primary one? Currently the MacBook's display works as primary, so every application I open gets open on the 13" and I have to drag it to the 24". I also don't have access to the dock on my 24".
Is is possible to turn off the MacBook screen and use only the one attached via DVI?
(I've just connected my 24" HP LP2475w via Mini DisplayPort to DVI to my MacBook Pro 13", which works great except for this one thing.)
A: Under your System Preferences > Display, you've got this
Just drag the white bar to the other screen to set it as the main screen.
You might have to do that every time you reboot / reconnect the external screen.
A: While running a dual-display setup, you can easily adjust the primary display monitor in Mac OS X. Before beginning, have both displays turned on, and the external display already connected to the Mac:
*
*Go to System Preferences -> Displays
*Choose the ‘Arrangement’ tab
*Click and hold on the white bar at the top of the current primary display
*Drag the white bar across to the other monitor you want to
set as the new primary display
*After you release the white bar, both screens will flicker briefly and adjust to accommodate new settings
Whatever monitor is set as primary it will become the default display for applications launching, in addition to holding the system menubar, containing all the default desktop icons and the Dock.
Note that if the secondary display will be detached, the primary screen will revert back to a built-in display on any portable Mac.
Here is the link to the original post about it.
A: Loïc answered for the main monitor question.
For closing the lid of your MacBook, it's what is called to use it in clamshell mode. As you will have to have an external mouse and keyboard connected to your laptop, you have to boot, close your lid (your mac will turn to sleep) and then use your mouse or keyboard to wake it from sleep mode.
If you have a bluetooth mouse and/or keyboard, you have to go in the bluetooth prefpane, and, in Advanced settings, check the Allow Bluetooth devices to wake this computer.
By the way, in this situation, no need anymore for a main and secondary monitor :)
When you open your lid while using only the external monitor, the macbook screen will stay black. If you want to use again both screens, you have to go to the Displays prefpane and click on Detect displays. Or, like me, check the Show displays in menu barand use the menubar instead to detect the displays.
A: Related;
Secondbar adds a second menu bar
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/33264/secondbar
A: Want o work on your external monitor while mac latop lid is closed? Plug your laptop your charger and close the lid and it will not sleep. Thats the trick
A: For me with just two screens. The above mentioned solutions didn't work as the new apps would open in the laptop itself. What worked is moving dock to right.
Also I had to do this https://discussions.apple.com/thread/251274566
*
*Go to mission control
*Add a new desktop
*Right click on the app in dock
*Delect options and select the display
A: MBP 13" Oct 2010
Plug in external monitor and close the mbp's lid
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6191",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "53"
} |
Q: How can I type or input Unicode characters using a code point on the iPhone? I'm aware of the ability to use accented characters by holding down a key until they appear (ie. á ü etc.); however, I'm curious as to how, if possible, one might enter a code point in hexadecimal format or otherwise to output the corresponding character?
A: UniK - Unicode & navigation Keyboard extension seems to be the closest to a character map and it also functions as a keyboard extension. You actually have to type hexadecimal code points in this app.
A: There are applications in the App Store that display all of the characters allowed in the Unicode set that you can copy and paste into other applications like Mail and the like. Searching "unicode" in the App Store brings up a whole slew of them, both free and paid.
There is also Glyphboard (visit with your iOS device) that you can save as a bookmark on your iOS device for an easy interface to some of the more popular ones. This is very lightweight and changes every so often.
A: I wonder if you ever found a way to enter Unicode characters directly on the ipad?
It's 2017.09 and the closest I've found is the app Unichar. Can't enter (uni)codes directly, but it has 18 unicode pages avaible (in the paid version, 8 in the free version.) Interesting is that it installs as an app that you can open, but also has a keyboard with the same level of features as the app and similar interface
This is as close of an answer as I've found to the same question. It's odd apple resists users' interest for so long.
A: I have been looking for similar and the best third party app I've found for arbitrary unicode input is called UnicodeLab.
It allows you to input any unicode in decimal or hex, view it in multiple fonts, and copy it to the clipboard. You can also cycle through neighboring character codes easily.
It is free.
A: I think IOS don't provide unicode Hex Input because it could impact the performance. East-Asia input consumes CPU/memory 100 times more than Latin input from my experiences.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6198",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: Can I use a jailbroken iPhone on Virgin Mobile? I am no longer on a contract with AT&T. Virgin Mobile has an awesome Beyond Talk plan for $25 (unlimited text, data, web, well I guess a max of 5.5Gb). Can I use a SIM card from a Virgin Mobile phone on my jailbroken iPhone?
Also, is it possible to buy just a SIM card from Virgin?
TIA
A: No. Virgin Mobile is a part of Sprint (they used to be a Sprint MVNO). Sprint uses CDMA, not GSM, so they do not have SIM cards.
So, no iPhone on Sprint at least until Apple makes a CDMA iPhone and sells them for Sprint.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6201",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Camera shake effect in iMovie '11 Is there a possible way to create a camera shake effect in iMovie 11?
A: I know that in iMovie HD (2006), the effect was under the name "Earthquake effect". Try looking for it under that name.
A: Firstly make the whole clip into 0.1 second. Then go onto the crop thing in the middle of the screen and pick the Ken Burns effect. Then you have to move the start and the end wherever you want and it will be shaky.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6206",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there any alternative to Windows Live Writer?
Possible Duplicate:
Is there a good / acceptable blog-publishing application on Mac OS X?
Coming from Windows, I've quite got used to writing to my blog using Windows Live Writer, which offers the ability to directly publish to the CMS.
Is there any such alternative for Mac OS X?
A: I'm still tied in both OS/X and Win environments going against Wordpress, Ecto is pretty good. MarsEdit was so so. Both approach with a classic single-document-interface problem of cramming too much stuff on one screen.
I still prefer Live Writer.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6216",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Will Excel formulas be OK if they are imported within a spreadsheet into iPad Numbers? Will Excel formulas be OK if they are imported within a spreadsheet into iPad Numbers?
A: In general yes - but there are some functions that are only in Excel.
Googling found this comparison for Apple Numbers for Mac OS.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6217",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why can't I transfer purchases from my jailbroken iPhone 3GS to iTunes? I have a jailbroken iPhone 3GS and I cannot transfer purchases to iTunes.
This is a recent issue; I could transfer purchases earlier.
A: If both iTunes and the iPhone are logged into the same iTunes account and you still can't sync the apps and you don't want to play with the iPhone too much (jailbreaking does weird things sometimes, seemingly irrelevant stuff can break things), you can just download the apps again in iTunes. All purchases can be re-downloaded for free.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6219",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I transfer large files from Linux to iPad over a cable or wifi? I am looking for a way to transfer large files to the iPad without using iTunes or pushing to and pulling from a remote server.
I run an Ubuntu laptop as my only OS at the moment and want to be able to transfer movies to my iPad. I currently transfer most of my files by way of the dropbox app which works well for small files but is quite slow for larger files and eats up my bandwidth. Ideally I'd like to be able to transfer over a cable or through WiFi.
Thanks for any tips.
A: Since iOS 13, you are able to access SMB shares with the Files app. Just set up your share in the Linux system (I recommend usershares), create the user on samba (while samba allows you to have the same Linux user, it requires that you use samba specific utilities to set up the password) and use "Connect to Server" within Files on your iOS device.
A: Look at the iOS app GoodReader. GoodReader is a $5 app that allows you to transfer files from Windows, Mac OS X & Linux via WiFi to your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch. You can then open the files in other apps based on the filetype.
A: Simply install VLC app from the app store and use its wifi transfer feature (in the sidebar of vlc app) to transfer videos(in all formats recognizable by vlc) into your vlc library....
UPDATE: This method not only works for audio/video formats but pretty much all file formats. Ofcourse, VLC won't show these files but one could access them using any decent File manager app such as Document.
A: Yes! You can transfer files to / from the iPad from Ubuntu via USB.
*
*You can always transfer files via SSH / a Samba share / etc.
*However that would be over Wifi, which is nowhere near as fast as USB connectivity.
*Via USB you can only access /var/root/Media on the ipad. Useful to put movies onto it - you will need to find a way to make these visible within iPad - I think you need to create some playlist?
*
*I use FileBrowser on the iPad and since my iPad is jailbroken, I ssh in and mv the transferred files from /var/root/Media to /var/mobile/Applications/[app-ID]/.data/Movies/. It is then visible within FileBrowser and Movies can be played there.
Steps
Install additional PPA repository
sudo add-apt-repository ppa:pmcenery/ppa
sudo apt-get update
Install libimobiledevice-utils
sudo apt-get install libimobiledevice-utils
Plug in the iPad / iPod / iPhone. It is visible as a removable drive!
A: For me on Ubuntu 18 all I had to do was install libimobiledevice-utils with
sudo apt-get install libimobiledevice-utils
and then reconnected the iPad, I can now browse my dam file and grab em just like normal folders thats just wonderful!!!
A: Not sure if this will work for everybody, but I can get movies (mp4, didn't try any other format) onto the ipad through the 'Documents' app from the app store. When I connect the iPad to my comp with usb it brings up a folder called "Documents on YOUR NAME's iPad". In this I can open the Document app's folder and just drag and drop. The files appear in the app then....magic!
A: *
*Install Zip & RAR File Extractor in your iPad
*Create a zip folder in your Linux machine of the files which you want to transfer.
*Open the Zip extractor app on your iPad, then go to Wi-Fi Transfer. It will show a web address. Write that address into your Linux web browser. There is an option of "Upload files", just click and upload the zip file and then transfer.
*Open iPad files, go to "On My iPad" and then go to the "Zip Extractor folder". You can see that the file has been transferred. Touch on that zip file, and you will see the file has been extracted.
A: FileBrowser is very good for transferring files.
A: I used to transfer by uploading to dropbox and downloading files on the dropbox app on my ipad.
There is another way which doesn't need internet which is using the app called "wireless drive". With this basically you connect your ipad with your laptop by creating wifi hotspot and transfer the files. But my ipad is unable to connect the wifi created by my new laptop. (wifi connection problem for unknown reason) ..... what do I do? I dont have internet right now.
You do following (after installing the app):
*
*just connect ipad to laptop using usb cable.
*You see "documents on the ipad" as a usb drive (as the external-pen drive)
*open the documents on the ipad > you see different apps you have on the ipad
*You will see "wireless drive" in the list, open it by double-clicking.
*You will see folder "documents", open it.
*You will see folder is empty, if it's used for the first time.
Just simply copy whatever you want to copy to your ipad in this folder and that's it!!
Now, just open the "wireless drive" app on your ipad, and you see the files you have transferred. Tap on any of the document, you will be asked which app to be used to open/run the file, select appropriate app and you can use the file on your ipad.
A: Download Folder Lock for your iPad and enjoy its WiFi File Transfer feature.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/apple-store/id372925917?pt=329691&ct=fa&mt=8
A: Install Phone Drive Free from the app store. You don't need to jailbreak your idevice.
Phone Drive Free will tell you the device address. Enter this into your web browser. The browser will give you an interface to drag n drop your files.
A: I just connected my iPad 2021 to Ubuntu 22.04 and I got access to Clips, GarageBand and several other folders. As soon as I copied files to GarageBand I could see them on the iPad.
A: Install Apache on your Linux machine:
sudo apt install apache2
And copy your files to /var/www/html. Remove /var/www/html/index.html so you can browse the directory. Then just point the web browser on your iPad to your Linux machine.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6221",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "23"
} |
Q: iPhone to iTunes application transfer
*
*Usually people used to download application on iTunes & then install it on their iPhone using iTuens sync.
*Currently, I have an iPhone that I bought from my friend.
*He had purchased many applications on iPhone.
*When I connected the phone to my iTunes, it asked to transfer or don't transfer. When I choose, transfer - It transfered all the items.
*Even though it was not from same account of itunes.
*I have different iTunes account & purchased application was from different itunes account even though it could transfer - my question is why - iTunes allows doing this ?
Ok. One more problem that I faced is as follows.
*
*When I was in wifi range, I directly downloaded an application ( using same account which I have on my itunes ).
*Next when I connected iPhone to iTunes, it didn't transferred anything & I lost my downloaded application.
Did any-one faced this issue ? If yes,
What did you do to resolve this issue ?
Thanks in Advance for sharing your great Knowledge.
Sugar.
A: 1)your friends itunes account was probably registered on your phone when you synced with the computer.
2) you can only be synced with one itunes account at a time. your problem might be that your synced with your friends account so any app that you download with your account wont be able to sync any apps unless you change it to sync with your account(which will delete all apps not purchased with your account.)
A: Either there was previous authorization on your system for his account, or if the iPhone was modified in some fashion (ie. Jailbreak), then any predictability with normal function goes out the window.
If iTunes synced and removed an application without any warning, then there is a problem with your iTunes, or there may be a corruption with the iPhone requiring a possible restore. I'd de-authorize the computer, re-authorize, and then sign out and back in on your iPhone with further testing.
A: It is possible to use applications from different accounts on one iPhone. I do this too, where I usually download the free apps with my account and the paid with my wife's (we usually only buy using gift cards, and by redeeming all gift cards on one account we save up the spare cents after each 0.99€ song). For this to work, I needed to authorize my iTunes installation to use stuff bought using my wife's account.
So it's possible that you authorized your computer some time in the past to play music from your friends computer (even by streaming them, not only a file copy), and iTunes remembered this authorization so you can get the apps now. For updates to these apps it will ask for the password of your friend, so you see this use-case is usually limited to situations where people know each other very well and password sharing is not a big problem (in one household, usually).
In the mobile version of the App Store you can see which account you're logged in as by scrolling down on the first page. If it's still acting weird a restore could help that. Since you were able to transfer the purchased apps from the iPhone to your computer, you should be able to place them back after the restore.
A: You must ensure you sync the iPhone with one and the same iTunes account. To authorize/deauthorize iTunes, you might want to have a look at this Apple page:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1420
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6224",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: What are the best mnemonics to remember important short cuts? In my job I teach a lot of people to use macs. Since you use what you remember I'm always on the look out for funny or memorable ways to remember keyboard or system shortcuts (like you have the option to command escape, I know it's corny, but it works for newbies!).
What are the mnemonics you use to remember important keyboard or system shortcuts? Funny is a bonus.
EDIT / UPDATE
Sorry I've been away for a bit and haven't updated my question for a bit. A bit more info - I'm teaching a digital class of 8,9 and 10 year olds (who have a MacBook each) this year; and I'm looking for funny ways for them to remember the things you commonly do on your mac. Kids love learning shortcuts (for some reason) and any thing I can do to help them build confidence and have a laugh is great.
Here are the shortcuts that would be handy:
*
*Force Quit (That was my example, you
have the option to
command escape).
*Search (command space)
*Command Tab
*Expose (Four fingers down on the mouse pad!?)
*Command ShiftK (Connect to a nearby server in finder)
*Apple ShiftA for Applications
*Anything else you might think is handy.
I know it's a bit of a vague question, I'm just looking for any fun and easy way to teach these shortcuts.
A: Spotlight:
I've heard it remembered as 'space command'. Like you're the commander of a futuristic spaceship and you're talking to the computer, asking it to look for something or open something. You're commanding the space ship.
Press command-space to access Space Command.
A: Of the most commonly used keyboard shortcuts, I've found that most new users find the ones for "cut" and "paste" are the most difficult to remember. Not difficult, though, if you think of the "X" for "cut" as a pair of scissors, and "V" for paste as "viscous".
But blindingly funny ones? Hmm, you've stumped me there...
A: "Very much long work causes injury just because stress yanks energy gradually."
moVe V very
Marquee M much
Lasso L long
Wand W work
Crop C causes
Eye I injury
Healing J just (Jesus heals)
Brush B because
Stamp S stress
HistorY Y yanks
Erasor E energy
Gradiant G gradually
Blur --
"Optimum practice teaches attention under hard rigor."
DOdge O Optimum
Pen P Practice
Text T Teaches
Select A Attention
Shapes U Under
Hand H Hard
Rotate R Rigor
Switch X (Exchange)
Default D
Quick Mask Q
Screen F (Full)
A: The most obvious mnemonic is really the first letter of the action wanted in combination with ⌘, e.g. ⌘-F for 'Find'. The hard part comes when that is reserved to some other command than the intended.
I'd suggest first learning the most used shortcuts (maybe just one or two) and start using them whenever possible. After a while, when those come right from the spine, form a habit of adopting a few new shortcuts every week or month, what seems to be appropriate rate for one. Gradually one knows a conciderable amount of shortcuts.
A: Command - F -- usually finds
Command - C -- usually copies
Command - V -- usually pastes
Command - F -- usually cuts
Command - Space -- spotlight, or I configured it to alfred
Command - Tab / Command - Shift - Tab -- Tab between open applications
Command - ` / Command - Shift - ` -- Tab between windows of current application
Command - T -- usually open a new tab
Command - W -- close current window / document
Command - Q -- quit current application
Command - [ -- history back (browser, finder)
Command - ] -- history forward (browser, finder)
Command - Shift - [ -- switch to previous tab
Command - Shift - ] -- switch to next tab
Ctrl - Left / Right -- Switch to different workspace left / right
Ctrl - Up -- Expose all windows of all apps
Ctrl - Down -- Expose all windows of current app
Without terminal commands thats what I use daily, no more. No less.
Terminal is much more fun:
Ctrl - C -- sigint
Ctrl - D -- sigterm
Ctrl - R -- search bash history
Command - K -- clear terminal screen and scrollback
Ctrl - A -- move cursor to start of line
Ctrl - E -- move cursor to end of line
I also use SizeUp with the following configurations
Ctrl - Option - Command - Up -- make window take up whole screen
Ctrl - Option - Command - Left -- make window take up left half of screen
Ctrl - Option - Command - Right -- make window take up right half of screen
To be honest, all my mnemonics are the letters/symbols with modifiers being what I want those to do:
*
*[ = back
*] = forward
*F = find
*C = copy
*V = paste (I can't spell so v is for paste)
*X = cut (criss cross woot)
*Left = left
*Right = right
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6226",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can you change the mouse cursor in OS X? I can't find many solutions for changing the mouse cursor on OS X 10.6
I've seen http://unsanity.com/haxies/mightymouse but it does not support 10.6 at the moment.
Any hints or tricks to change the cursor? Specifically, I need to modify the text selection cursor as it is almost invisible when using a grey background in my IDE.
Thanks!
A: There are a couple options:
In System Preferences > Universal Access > Mouse pane, there is a control to change the size of the cursor.
Mouseposé is an application that supports Snow Leopard used mostly for presentations and recording demos. You can set up a hotkey that dims the screen puts a spotlight on the current cursor position so you can find it quickly.
A: Mousecape does a great job. It is almost completely undocumented, sub-1.0 release, and doesn't really come with any cursors. Still worth a look!
A: Sorry, Apple doesn't allow people to change the mouse cursor anymore.
A: Use Mousecape. I'm currently using version 0.0.5.
*
*Download the program (version 0.0.5)
*Double-click the program
*Make a new mouse cape (cmd + n or by menus)
*Drag image files on to each new pointer, choose what type of pointer
*Move the Hot Spot to correctly register clicks
I suggest getting images from free icon libraries. Google search or something. I downloaded some free icons and edited them.
You can use custom capes that others have made but the only one I've found is the one included in the source code. To get it, download the source and find the .cape file in it. Simple drag and drop the file into the program.
You can download the source code, etc, on github.
A: You could use Mouse Locator and leave it on or turn it on via a hotkey when you need to find your cursor.
A: The way you do this is "System Preferences" -> "Accessibility" -> "Display" -> "Cursor".
Inside the cursor tab you are table to change the size. You can't do any other customization than size but its a good start.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6230",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "20"
} |
Q: Microsoft Outlook versus iCal versus Google Calendar The corporate calendar and email server is Exchange. My personal calendar is in google.
Currently, I use iCal to allow me to see both calendars at the same time.
This is not perfect, however, insofar as iCal doesn't support all of Exchange's calendar protocol. When people propose new times for meetings, for example, unpleasant things happen.
So, I wonder if there's some way to get Outlook 2011 to cooperate with Google calendar, with or without help from iCal, so that I could use Outlook to manipulate the work calendar and still see my Google calendar as I go.
A: From http://www.google.com/support/forum/p/Calendar/thread?tid=044fe4493f88eba1&hl=en&start=80
peertimo
Level 1
1/4/11
"One confirmed hint: Spanning Sync works. First you have to set up Apple iCal with the same Exchange as Outlook. Then Spanning Sync can sync one way from that "shared"/same calendar and Google Calendar. Once it is there, you can sync it back down to your iPhone and iPad as a regular Google Exchange sync."
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6233",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What are the differences between the AT&T and Verizon versions of iPhone 4? Besides working on their respective carriers, what are the similarities and differences between the AT&T iPhone 4 and Verizon iPhone 4?
A: Due to the differences between CDMA and GSM, the antenna notches have been moved around. There are also 4 now instead of 3, and as a result of adding a notch on the left side of the phone, the mute switch is slightly lower on the Verizon iPhone 4 than the AT&T iPhone 4, which could cause cases made for the AT&T iPhone 4 to not fit the Verizon iPhone 4 properly:
Though this may change in a future version of iOS, right now the Verizon iPhone 4 has a "Personal Hotspot" feature to share the data connection with up to 5 devices. In contrast, the AT&T iPhone 4 supports tethering through USB or Bluetooth only, and only to 1 device:
Finally, because the Verizon iPhone 4 runs on Verizon's CDMA, it does not support simultaneous data and voice, unlike the AT&T iPhone 4 which does over 3G.
A: Engadget summarized the differences...
http://www.engadget.com/2011/01/11/atandt-iphone-4-vs-verizon-iphone-4-whats-changed/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6236",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is the Verizon iPhone 4 susceptible to the 'grip of death'? Of course, it's possible to get any phone to lose a bit of signal if you cover the antenna with your hands, but I'm wondering if the Verizon iPhone 4 also suffers from the attenuation issues that the AT&T iPhone 4 famously suffered from last summer:
A: ArsTechnica notes that there is no noticeable signal loss when gripping it with the 'death grip'. Though due to the way smart phone antennas are designed, it still may be possible
A: As an add-on to the Ars report: photos of the adjustment of button locations also show differing locations of the breaks in the metal band around the device, so it's quite possible there was a real hardware change.
Other pictures show different breaks near the bottom of the phone, too.
A: The flaw is in the iPhone 4's antenna design, not the network or carrier. So, I would say yes. The software "fix" they released is supposed to make the bars depict signal quality more accurately, so you may find that while on Verizon, "the death grip" doesn't affect signal quality at all or as much.. but that doesn't negate that the antenna design itself is flawed physically, and that's why "the death grip" has any affect on signal quality.
A: Slashgear confirms that the Verizon iPhone 4 does not suffer from the death grip:
We put our hand in the standard “death
grip” location, making sure that we
covered up all of the right spots, and
held onto the device for up to a
minute. When we started the test, the
device was at four bars. It should be
noted that full service is represented
on the iPhone 4 with 5 bars. So, the
test started with only four bars being
shown. As we held the device, and we
timed it at a minute, we watched as
only one bar disappeared.
We then put our fingers over certain
points on the device. Making sure to
cover up the “new” top portion of the
antenna, and we still couldn’t
reproduce the “death grip” symptoms
that plagued the initial launch of the
iPhone 4. You can check out the images
from our test below, but it looks like
Verizon’s confidence in the iPhone 4
on their network seem to be pretty
sound.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6237",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: My MacBook Pro uses an extraordinary amount of RAM I bought my MacBook Pro about 1.5 years ago (with 4 GB RAM) but these days I think it uses an extraordinary amount of memory; when I open Firefox & Adium & Thunderbird & iTunes & last.fm it uses 3.84 of my 4GB RAM. I must say I installed several 3rd-party software packages on my laptop (maybe on start up they run some process of itself) is there any tool that exists to help me tune my laptop and find what processes run functionless in background, or is there any guideline to help me fix this problem?
A: It's probably just been a while since you restarted your computer. When you close a program, the memory it was using doesn't go back to "Free", it gets marked "Inactive". It's still available for use by other programs, though:
Inactive memory
This information in memory is not actively being used, but was recently used.
For example, if you've been using Mail and then quit it, the RAM that Mail was using is marked as Inactive memory. This Inactive memory is available for use by another application, just like Free memory. However, if you open Mail before its Inactive memory is used by a different application, Mail will open quicker because its Inactive memory is converted to Active memory, instead of loading Mail from the slower hard disk.
A: There are probably tools that make it easier to suss things out than using Activity Viewer, but in the end, you just have to be careful what you install. Depending on the applications you install, there may very well be frameworks, daemons, and the like that can run unnecessarily. last.fm is a music streaming application and that is a known resource hog. McAfee AnitVirus is another; I had McAfee slow my machine to a crawl trying to scan my iDisk. The best example I can offer is I got rid of all Adobe applications and related files including Flash off of my home Macs and I found things to be snappier all around (and if I do need Flash for something, which is fast becoming a rare event, I just crack open Google Chrome). I'd say it's simply time for some housecleaning.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6240",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Power adapter connection issues Lately, my Magsafe power adapter has not been connecting properly:
*
*The wires are not worn out as I take good care of them
*The issue happens when I try to connect my power adapter to my computer
*The LED does not come on and the MacBook does not get charged. I have to unplug and plug the power adapter several times until I can get a connection.
*The cord and computer intake seem clean and no pins are pushed down
What can I do?
A: Even if there isn't any obvious cable damage or bulging, the adapter could be failing. If the adapter is not one of the newer L-Shape Magsafe plugs, the need for a SMC firmware update is moot, but it's helpful to have the system up to date regardless.
Have you confirmed if a second, known-good adapter works on your Mac?
Updated: An SMC reset can also correct magsafe LED issues. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
A: Your MagSafe power adapter could require frequent reset because of an external problem: the electrical wiring in your home is substandard, and/or the power provided by your electrical company is sending "dirty" current out of your wall outlet and into your MagSafe adapter. This official Apple support document refers to this problem as "line noise issues".
This means that the alternating current (AC) is irregular, and the MagSafe adapter cannot handle it. The best way to test for this is to use your MagSafe adapter and your MacBook at another location, possibly in another neighborhood, in a house or business where the electrical wiring is newer. If the problem goes away, this is an indication that the electrical wiring and electrical service in your home are substandard.
Fixing this would of course be an expensive proposition, and involve the services of a professional electrical contractor to retrofit the electrical system in your home or business, or to install expensive power conditioning equipment.
A: Do you restart your computer regularly? If not, you may want to try that. I suggest this because my early 2011 MacBook Pro's Magsafe indicator did not light up yesterday when I plugged it in. This is the first time that I've seen this. I tried several times and it did not light up and charging was not detected on the menu bar icon.
After doing a full system reboot, everything was fine, though.
I'm not suggesting this will solve the problem, but it may be worth trying.
A: When I had a problem like this (the light would not come on and the menu bar status icon said “Not Charging”), I called AppleCare and they chose to replace the power adapter, and the problem did not reoccur.
A: Make sure you have the newest SMC firmware. This controls connecting to the MagSafe and charging.
Use this Apple page to see if there are any updates available.
A: I have a similar issue. It is reliably solved by rubbing the connections on one or both ends with a Q-tip. There may be some static or oxidation on the surface, and removing it solves my problem. I have to do this almost every day
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6248",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I diagnose a superdrive that won't read disks? My MacBook (Snow Leopard) seems to be unable to read DVDs and CDs. When I insert a disk (DVD or CD, I've tried a couple of each), the drive spins up, and (it sounds like) moves the laser back and forth a few times, then ejects the disk. I haven't tried blank media.
I've searched around the nets, and it looks like I may be experiencing a relatively common problem, but I don't want to jump to conclusions. Unfortunately, all the threads I've found are filled with "me too, me too", and not a lot in terms of actual help.
What tools can I use, or tests can I run, to try to diagnose (and perhaps even solve) the problem myself before I give up and replace the drive?
A: Try running the Apple Hardware Test. If I remember right, reboot holding D. If that doesn't work, reboot while holding D, with an OS X disk in. Of course you'll need to have an external DVD drive for that to work.
A: It would depend first on what it means to not read the discs. Does the disc insert and then eject, or simply not show up in the Finder? Does it mount and not burn properly? etc.
You can check for the optical drive in your System Profiler to see if the hardware is present (see: Disc Burning).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6256",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Add heading to Google Docs document from iPhone quite a straightforward question. I started to really like Google Docs and the fact I can edit them from iPhone from the mobile site.
However, I would like to add headings to the documents while editing on iPhone. It is not possible through any drop-menu, but isn't there some sort of hack?
A: I can suggest several for title editing, but I'm unaware of any that offer headings.
If you've already scanned through the available App Store offerings without much success, then I can suggest little-else. It's not about a hack, as Google hasn't gone out of their way to restrict you in this fashion. Probably on the long list of to-do's.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6259",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How can I do an unthethered jailbreak for iPad Wifi running iOS 4.2.1 if you do not have older SHSH? How can I jailbreak iOS 4.2.1 (unthethered) if you do not have older SHSH?
Currently I'm looking for this only for my iPad WiFi, so no baseband.
If there are not solutions yet, do not post anything.
A: Greenpois0n rc5 Has been released and can do an untethered jailbreak on 4.2.1 without older SHSH blobs.
http://www.greenpois0n.com
A: Here is a step by step tutorial to do untethered jailbreaking on an iOS 4.2.1 device.
A: This how-to guide should help.
It's amazing and I used it :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6274",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Growl iCal invite notification Is it possible to integrate Growl into iCal so that invitations made by other users are shown by Growl especially those which are pending?
Alternatives to show iCal notifications are also welcome!
A: Whoops, didn't know that such a simple interface was able to show notifications
ANSWER: iCal is able to display invitations out of the box
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6275",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Multiple users on one machine and Dropbox If UserA logs in to an OS X machine (at the GUI) and starts Dropbox, UserB logs in via ssh and adds a file to their Dropbox, will Dropbox work for UserB? Or does UserB need to log in via the GUI also, and then "switch" (not log out) to UserA?
A: DropBox does not support not-logged-in users. The solution seems to be the following:
Log in and start Dropbox from the command line:
alias dropbox='/Applications/Dropbox.app/Contents/MacOS/Dropbox &'
dropbox # start it.
ps aux | grep -i dropbox # shows multiple instances running
The above technique seems to work. Error messages are sent when the second Dropbox launches:
already someone listening at socket
RegisterApplication(), FAILED TO establish the default connection to the WindowServer, _CGSDefaultConnection() is NULL.
But everything appears to work.
A: The Dropbox app runs as the logged-in user, and uses user-specific preferences to determine which Dropbox it's associated with and where the local Dropbox folder is located, so I'd assume that means that it only works for the logged-in user. There's only one way to find out for sure though - try it and see! :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6276",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Will Swype ever be available for iPhone? Swype has been rumored to one day become available for iPhone. Does anyone know of any concrete plans?
A: Update 2019-09-20
iOS 13 now has swype-like support built in.
Pre iOS 13...
I have been following Swype for some time, and the only thing they have officially said was one little peep in Reuters back in June about looking towards iPhone development. In the article they alluded towards a developer running Swype on his iPhone, however no releases or leaks are anywhere to be found.
My guess... just a guess... is that they are trying to work around the need to jailbreak your iPhone in order to run it.
If you follow the Engadget blog, you'll be among the first to know.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6277",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to securely erase an SSD drive? I'm pretty new to SSD technology, so I don't know how it compares to hard drives when it comes to securely erasing the drive. Is it enough to run Disk Utility and erase the drive with the option "overwrite with zeroes", or is this designed for hard drives? Are there other actions that should be taken?
I'm not looking for NSA-grade security though, just the kind of wipe you'd do if you're returning or selling the Mac.
A: Open a terminal and type the following command:
df -k
Note the first column corresponding to the partition of the SSD you
would like to irreversibly erase. Let's say it is /dev/disk1s2.
Type the following command:
dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/rdisk1s2 bs=100k
where /dev/rdisk1s2 is the raw device associated with your partition
on SSD. This command will completely write this partition from 1st block
available to the last one. This command will last long (~1/2 h for 100 Gbytes) with no nice scroll bar of progress.
Once this command return you the prompt of your shell the disk has been
completly and irreversibly erased.
Start Disk Utility and check this partition.
It will tell you it is dammaged beyond any form of repair.
And it is right.
Just format this partition as you like.
Here is what is happening at the physical blocks level:
A: The "Security Options..." button in Disk Utility is currently grayed out for SSDs. According to http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3680, erasing an SSD normally might be secure enough:
Note: With OS X Lion and an SSD drive, Secure Erase and Erasing Free Space are not available in Disk Utility. These options are not needed for an SSD drive because a standard erase makes it difficult to recover data from an SSD. For more security, consider turning on FileVault 2 encryption when you start using the SSD drive.
It is still possible to run something like diskutil secureErase freespace 4 disk0s2 from Terminal on the recovery partition.
Simply turning on FileVault 2 before erasing the drive is probably a better option though. According to this answer, performing a remote wipe also just erases the encryption key if FileVault 2 is enabled:
Yes, when you remotely wipe the computer it does a secure wipe. Apple even warns you that it could take as long as a day. However, if your drive was encrypted with FileVault 2, then it is not necessary to erase the disk. It is sufficient to securely erase the encryption key(s) stored on the disk, so that's what they do. It's very quick and as secure as the underlying encryption system is, which for now is very secure.
http://training.apple.com/pdf/wp_osx_security.pdf:
FileVault 2 provides IT departments with the ability to erase the encryption key from a given Mac at any time to ensure that encrypted data cannot be accessed by either user login or data recovery tools. This process is referred to as a remote wipe.
A: It depends on your paranoia level. Because of the way SSDs handle writing data, doing a zero-once on an SSD is not as good as doing so on a hard drive.
When you write a particular data page on an HD, the new data is simply written over the old data, replacing it. Write zeros over the whole disk and all the old data will be gone. SSDs, on the other hand, cannot simply overwrite individual pages. In order to replace the data on a page, the old data must first be erased, and SSDs cannot erase individual pages; they have to erase entire blocks consisting of many pages.
So what happens when you ask an SSD to overwrite, say, page #5, is that the SSD leaves the data on page #5 alone, but marks it as invalid, allocates another currently-blank page (say, #2305), writes the new data to page #2305, and makes a note that next time the OS asks for page #5 it should get #2305 instead. The original page #5 data sits there until some later time, when the drive needs more space, moves any remaining valid pages away from the block, and erases it. SSDs have more physical memory capacity than they expose to the computer, so they can juggle blocks like this for a while before actually having to erase anything (and when they do actually erase something, there's no good way to predict which blocks of leftover data will be chosen for erasure). See this AnandTech review for way more details (warning: it's fairly long, and the relevant stuff is spread around).
Net result: if you write zeros over the "whole" drive, you haven't actually overwritten all the old data. You have updated the controller's translation table so it'll never return any of the old data to the OS (those pages are all invalid). But if someone's hardcore enough to bypass the controller, they could get some of your data back.
Overwriting twice will probably work, but it depends on the controller's allocation strategy. Overwriting twice with random data (diskutil randomDisk 2 /dev/diskN) is a little more likely to work, but still not guaranteed. Both of these also have some bad side-effects: they uses some of the lifetime of the drive, and also increase the logical fragmentation on the SSD, decreasing its write performance.
Note that recent versions of OS X's graphical Disk Utility disable the secure erasure options on SSDs (for the reasons discussed above), but the command-line version still allows them. BTW, I have also seen several recommendations to securely erase SSDs by converting them to encrypted format, but this is (if anything) slightly less secure than overwriting with random data.
The best way to secure-erase an SSD is to invoke the controller's built-in secure-erase feature. This should (if the controller designers did their jobs) truly erase all blocks, and also have the side-effect of resetting the logical page map, essentially defragmenting it and restoring its original performance. Unfortunately, most of the utilities I've seen for doing this (e.g. CMRR's HDDErase) run under DOS, which won't boot on a Mac. I did find a posting on macrumors with (rather complex) instructions for doing a secure erase from a GParted boot CD. It might also be possible to use Parted Magic from a bootable flash drive, but I have not tried this.
Researchers at the Non-Volatile Systems Lab at UCSD have tested various ways of sanitizing SSDs by "erasing" the drive, then disassembling it to bypass the controller, and checking for remnant data (summary, full paper). Their results mostly agree with what I said above (and also show that the built-in secure-erase command isn't always implemented properly):
Our results lead to three conclusions:
First, built-in commands are effective, but manufacturers
sometimes implement them incorrectly. Second,
overwriting the entire visible address space of an SSD
twice is usually, but not always, sufficient to sanitize the
drive. Third, none of the existing hard drive-oriented
techniques for individual file sanitization are effective on
SSDs.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6278",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "39"
} |
Q: Convert from OpenOffice to Pages Does anybody has experience in how to best convert OpenOffice.org documents to pages documents.
Obviously, it can be read in a Text Editor.
A: The way I do it is I export the OpenOffice document to Microsoft Word DOC format, then use Pages to convert that into a Pages document. There may be some formatting loss, but I'm not aware of a way to convert directly from one format to the other.
A: I would suggest saving in RTF format instead of Word format as OS X has a very competent RFT engine as used by TextEdit and, I would guess, Pages. This avoids the conversion in and out of a poorly defined format with no public specification.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6280",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is it possible to disable or hide the digital zoom controls in the Camera app on iPhone? I don't think I have ever used the digital zoom feature in the Camera app. The controls are just in the way when you wan't to focus something in that part of the image. So, if possible, I want to hide them. I'm not afraid to jailbreak my phone if that is what i takes. Any answer appreciated.
I have an iPhone 3GS.
A: Currently there is no officially supported method of disabling the digital zoom feature. One way around it that I use when I (rarely) need to focus on the lower screen portion, is to focus on the subject, then move the camera's view to the preferred state. The camera will preserve this focus state long enough for a picture.
A: It's possible for a developer to hide them when displaying the camera interface. But there's no way for a user to turn that control off in Apple's "Camera" app.
A: Simply instal a different camera app that's more focused (see what I did there) on experienced photographers. ProCam, for example, has an option not only to disable digital zoom, but also tells the truth about how the two lenses on the 7 Plus work, by providing direct control over which lens is active, rather than hiding the (possible, but not guaranteed) switch at 2x "zoom".
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6281",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can I install apps bought on the Mac App Store on multiple computers? If I buy an app on through the Mac App Store, can I install it on both of my Macs?
I use the same iTunes account on both of them.
A: There is no numerical limit, and you don't need to run App Store on every Mac. The App Store's own online Help document explains all this -- from App Store, open Help, then select Purchase Applications>Use Applications on Multiple Macs for details.
The only restriction on this is if your purchase was for commercial use and more than one person uses the apps. In that case the language of the license asks for one purchase per user or one purchase per computer.
A: Yes. Just run the App Store app on the second Mac and go to the Purchases tab. You'll see a list of the apps you've already purchased, with an Install button next to each one - click the button to install on the second Mac.
A: You can in fact do this. There may be a limit to the number of devices similar to how iTunes limits you to 5 "authorized" computers. I'm not sure though. The concept is that the computers you install them on are supposed to be your own, but the truth is there is not literally any verification process to determine this. Fortunately, Apple never makes you jump through annoying anti-piracy hoops. I know this because I have Mac App Store apps on 2 computers in my house.
A: Yes, you can install apps bought from the Mac App Store on any and every Mac that you personally own and use.
I suggest you read this article about mac app-store
Licenses and copy protection
Can I buy an app on one Mac for use on all my computers?
Yes, you can install apps bought from the Mac App Store on any and
every Mac that you personally own and use.
What about the five-Mac restriction that I have with videos I bought
from iTunes? Does that work for Apps too?
No. Apps don't check to see if you've using an iTunes-authorized Mac.
They can ask you to verify your Apple ID and password, but that's a
single check and it's just to verify you are who you say you are. Once
your identity is verified, that's it. There's no authorizing or
deauthorizing or counting of different Macs.
Does that mean I could buy one copy of an app and install it on every
Mac in my business?
No, the license you agree to when you enter the Mac App Store says
that app downloads are for Macs that you personally own, and that's a
license for personal use. Apps that are intended for professional use
are licensed for you or for a single computer used by several people.
While there's no technical impediment to you installing them on
multiple Macs at work, you'll be violating the license agreement. It's
the same scenario as if you buy a single-user copy of iWork and
install it on ten Macs at work—you can do it, but you're violating the
license agreement, making the act ethically questionable.
A: Apple's rules: If you buy the app for private use, then you are allowed to run the app on up to six computers that you own and control. If you buy the app for commercial use, then you are allowed to either run it on any number of computers used by the same person, or on one computer used by any number of persons.
And none of these is checked by Apple.
A: No, you cannot. According to my research in the field, it is not allowed, except in North Korea.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6283",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "40"
} |
Q: Does latest MacBook Air have powered USB ports? I see that the latest 13 inch MacBook Air has two USB 2.0 ports, but can they power, say, a 2.5 inch external hard drive?
A: Yes, the USB ports are powered. In fact, they are designed to power the USB SuperDrive, which draws more power than most USB ports support.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6289",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I rotate a video? I just recorded a video on my phone, but when I play it on my Mac it's in the wrong orientation.
How can I rotate the video by 90 degrees so that I can upload it to youtube?
Free solutions are preferred.
I just found out how to do it using YouTube's Video Editor which has rotate left/right buttons.
But this is not an answer how to rotate on Mac.
A: Use QuickTime to Rotate Videos
You don't need to use any 3rd party tools to do this. It's built right in to QuickTime Player.
Any file that can be opened in QuickTime can be rotated by choosing Edit > Rotate Left (or Right) or by typing Command-Shift-L / R.
If you alter a movie file in this way and attempt to close the file (Command-W) you will be prompted to save your changes. Save them to a new file and you will have a newly rotated video.
Share your Video on YouTube with QuickTime
QuickTime also has a built-in way to share your video on YouTube. With the video open (and correctly rotated now) select Share > YouTube...
A: Using ffmpeg you have a few techniques:
For newer versions of ffmpeg use:
ffmpeg -i in.avi -vf "transpose=1" out.avi
For older versions of ffmpeg:
ffmpeg -vfilters "rotate=90" -i input.mp4 output.mp4
Using mencoder:
mencoder -oac copy -ovc lavc -vf rotate=1 original.mp4 -o 90_CW_rotated.mp4
mencoder -oac copy -ovc lavc -vf rotate=2 original.mp4 -o 90_CCW_rotated.mp4
Sources: ffmpeg, mencoder
A: You can use MPEG Stream Clip: http://www.squared5.com/svideo/mpeg-streamclip-mac.html
Simply open the file and choose to export it from the file menu in a format of your choosing, selecting the appropriate rotation in the selection box.
You can find out the current format of the video by choosing File > Show Stream Info as to match the export to the input settings if required.
A: If you are willing to trust a web-based solution you can do the following:
*
*Go to video.online-convert.com.
*From left menu, choose what is your desired file format (select avi or mp4 if you don’t know much about this)
*Choose your file, it can be of any size and format
*Without changing or entering any settings, just choose to which angle you want to rotate your video
*Press “Convert button” and wait for the file to upload and convert.
*Converted file will be automatically downloaded
Source
A: Use the ⌘ Cmd+Shift+L, R, etc. when you open the video in Quicktime. That should do the trick.
A: Just open QT and it automatically rotates it. Then simply export it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6297",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "33"
} |
Q: macbook pro absurdly small battery life My Macbook Pro lasts me about 1.5 to 2 hours max on a single charge. This feels ridiculously low.
What can I do to increase the battery life on Macbook Pro?
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Manufacturer: SMP
Pack Lot Code: 0000
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 0201
Hardware Revision: 000a
Cell Revision: 0157
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 6079
Fully charged: No
Charging: Yes
Full charge capacity (mAh): 6930
Health Information:
Cycle count: 3
Condition: Normal
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 2139
Voltage (mV): 12492
A: Make sure there are no processes hogging your CPU (this eats battery).
Open Activity Monitor from /Applications/Utilities.
Set the Show menu at the top right to All Processes
Click the %CPU column head so the triangle faces down.
Which processes are at the top? How much are they using?
This may reveal what's going on.
Also, you can check the health of your battery to make sure it's not a hardware problem.
Download the free coconutBattery app and see what it has to say about your batter's capacity.
A: Use the laptop plugged in as much as possible. Any time you drain the battery at all, and then charge it, the drain + charge is counted towards 'a cycle', where 'a cycle' means the battery has drained, and been charged, 100%.
So if you drain it half way and charge it fully, twice, that counts as 'a cycle'. These batteries will last a certain number of cycles. There are utilities out there that will check your cycle count, I often use one called "Pow!".
Other than that; run as few applications as possible. Turn off any sensors (ambient light sensor, keyboard backlighting, etc). Run the laptop with as dim a setting on the screen as possible.
Also, try to know what's running in the background. If you've got processes you don't need doing stuff, that will drain your battery faster.
A: I've just gone through two brand new MacBook Pro Retina 15's, "fresh" from Apple Store, both of which were giving me only 3-4 hours on a fresh charge.
After resetting NVRAM and SMC, I now get 5-6 or more hours.
If you buy a new MacBook -- and are getting less than 5 hours per charge -- try resetting your NVRAM and SMC.
How to Reset NVRAM:
*
*Shut down the computer.
*Locate the following keys on your keyboard: COMMAND , OPTION, the letter P, and the letter R.
*Turn on the computer
*Press and hold the COMMAND - OPTION - P and R keys before the gray screen appears and before you hear any chimes.
*Hold the keys down until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for the second time.
*Release the keys.
Reset SMC:
*
*Shut down the computer.
*Plug in the MagSafe power adapter to a power source, connecting it to the Mac if its not already connected.
*On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift-Control-Option keys and the power button at the same time. The OPTION key is also known as ALT.
*Count to 5 then release all the keys and the power button at the same time.
*Press the power button to turn on the computer.
*Note: The LED on the MagSafe power adapter may change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SMC.
References:
*
*SMC: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
*NVRAM: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1379
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6298",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Preview an animated GIF image? How can I preview an animated GIF? When I double-click it, it opens in Preview and is not animated, showing each frame as a separate image instead of playing the animation. As an example, here is the image I was trying to preview (so you can try it yourself).
Is there some way to get Preview to play the animated GIF, or if not, what's the best app to imitate Preview in this one instance? (i.e. something that will quickly open and play the GIF, I don't care about editing and whatnot)
A: You can also preview in Terminal qlmanage -p awesomegif.gif
A: I'm using the animgifqlgen QuickLook plugin:
Animated GIF QuickLook plugin
This is a QuickLook plugin for MacOS-X 10.5/10.6 that allows QuickLook preview of Animated GIFs. The current GIF support in the Finder doesn't show animations. This plugin extends the Finder to allow QuickLook to display the GIF in its animated form.
A: In Mountain Lion and Mavericks, Mac's own Quick Look has GIF support, so clicking space or ⌘+Y while the GIF is selected will play it. It might take a second or two to load though, depending on the size of the GIF.
A: Right-click it, go to the Open With menu, and choose Safari (or your other favorite Web browser).
It should open quickly, and will play the animation.
No internet connection is required if you have a local copy of the image.
A: Answering the question, you go to your gif file, select it and press your space bar on your keyboard, to open a window that shows the animation of your gif.
I had installed the QuickLook plugging, thinking that will be better and easier to view, maybe in the same window of finder, but i was wrong. Instead of this, it only crashed the original configuration, so i wasted the rest of day, searching a fix solution.
How became after install the plugin:
i installed this and now when i hit space bar, i only view a black window instead of my animated gif (before, it was possible)!!! i want to fix it!!!! NOW! this shit doesn't have itself unistaller!
i thought that this pluging were allow me to preview gifs in the same window of finder (like the windows 7 does)!!!
After a long day searching for a solution, i find this tip:
I found a good soul that shared the solution on a forum website, here is what his said:
"To UNINSTALL this plugin, go to the /library folder and open the QuickLook folder. This is NOT the MacOS Harddisk/library or System/library folder. It’s a HIDDEN folder in your own directory. To access it, click the GO menu in the Finder menu (top bar) and press and hold the Option key. Select the “Library” directory that appears there. Inside the Quicklook folder, you’ll see the actual AnimatedGIF_QL.qlgenerator plugin file. DELETE it and you’ll immediately have your native GIF support working again."
And its working!!! :D yey!
hope this help someone!
A: Select the GIF (single click) in the Finder, then hit the space bar to bring up the GIF in Quick Look, which enables the animation.
A: In OSX 10.9, you can drag and drop it into a keynote slide. and then play it there.
A: A solution which bases on the accepted answer but is slightly easier in the long run would be to select a gif file and press ⌘+I to open the file properties panel. Look for Open with and choose Safari or your favourite browser. Click the now activated Change all button right underneath the App selector and from now on GIFs will always open in the selected browser and play the animation right away.
Maybe the button is not exactly labeled Change all as my system is German and I just translated my label for this answer. Please feel free to edit my answer if your system language is English and you can confirm/correct my translation.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6307",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "26"
} |
Q: Multiple apps in one icon for the iPad My husband's iPhone has the multi app icon and wanted to get the same on my new iPad.
Is it possible to get it on the iPad?
A: I think you are talking about iOS folder. If so, touch and hold one icon till icons begin dithering. Then drag and drop one icon on an other icon which of two you want to folder together. Your ipad will suggest you a folder name. You may change or assume that. Then push the home button.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6309",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Infinite Safari history on iPad? I really don't like to bookmark things (on iPad or other platforms) but just type a few relevent letters that bring the right site from browser history as a suggestion. However, on iPad I noticed that when I haven't visited a site for a while, Safari no longer suggests sites it previously did.
So, it seems that the browsing history is limited, by days or by size, am I right? I tried to stop Safari automatically deleting page history or at least increase the history size but there's nothing relevant in Settings for Safari.
Is adding a bookmark for every site I want to be suggested for sure the only option? Are there any restrictions for amount of bookmarks?
A: The iPad seems to limit its history to a week, which is presumably an acknowledgement of the limited RAM and storage in comparison to a traditional computer.
Adding bookmarks for desired/frequent sites is the only way to make sure they come up easily. There is no practical limit to the number of bookmarks, and you could easily shove all of those bookmarks in a folder you never visit directly.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6310",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: I think I have bricked my MacBook Pro, what are my options to get it fixed? I have been having power issues with my MacBook Pro (late 2007?). The power cable had a dodgy connection, and kept cutting out. This destroyed the life of the battery to the point where it would only hold a charge for a couple of seconds. Last night it stopped booting up, so I reset the PRAM, and tried booting from a CD but it wouldn't fully boot.
Finally, today I attempted to turn it on using a working power cable and there is no life whatsoever. The light goes green on the cable when I plug it in, but the power button doesn't give any life to the computer, no screen, no sound, nothing.
I've tried booting it with the battery removed.
What are my options? Is it likely to be a motherboard or RAM issue? Can I use the hard disk in another laptop to at least recover files? What is it likely to cost in repairs in the Apple store?
A: Take it to an Apple Store (make an appointment first): they'll examine and diagnose it for you with no charge, and then tell you what they'd charge to fix it.
Doesn't cost you anything and if the price is too great or you'd rather fix it yourself (now that you know the problem) then you can simply decline the service. It's a no-pressure deal, and one of the primary reasons I recommend Macs.
A: You could try to drain the last energy out of the capacitors by removing the battery and the power cable, and then turn it on. Then try booting with a power cable again. If this doesn't help, there's not much you can do yourself.
I'd guess it's a motherboard issue, with the history of dodgy power supplies that's imho more likely than RAM giving out.
Removing the harddisk and saving your files is indeed an option, you could look at sata-docks like this one. That way you can just take the files off instead of having to deal with booting the os on the hard drive in another laptop if you get what I mean.
As to the price of the repair: I have no clue at all.
A: If you have a known-good power cable now, I'd try looking up "reset PMU macbook" and see if those instructions help at all. The PMU is a chip that governs the power management functions of the Mac, and if its settings get corrupt it could lead to a non-booting computer.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_Management_Unit
A: Another option you can do yourself it to reset the System Management Controller (SMC).
The list of power problems this can fix has enough overlap with your problems that it's likely worthwhile:
Power
The computer doesn't respond to the power button when pressed.
A portable Mac doesn't appear to respond properly when you close or open the lid.
The computer sleeps or shuts down unexpectedly.
The battery does not appear to be charging properly.
The MagSafe power adaptor LED doesn't appear to indicate the correct activity.
A: I am unsure that you can speak of 'bricking' your laptop in that fashion. To me 'bricking' is a one of the dangers that may befall you if you presume to strive for mastery over your mobile device.
During the RSS era I lost a hard drive to repeated shutdowns, but you should be fine.. have you tried mounting it as a firewire disk? Do you have access to another mac to do so?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6314",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to use the built–in VPN Server on Mac OS 10.6.6 I know that Mac OS 10.6.6 has a built in VPN server that one can access through command line. Is there an easier way? Can I make an Automator or AppleScript program that starts and stops the built–in VPN server? I have Developer tools installed.
I see that there are several paid software front–ends, like "iVPN", yet I would rather learn how to do this by myself.
The man pages are a bit thick for me. But if I could find a step by step walk through then maybe I could parse the man pages.
A: Looks like this is what you're after, though I haven't tried it myself.
http://blog.theilluminatedengineer.com/?p=136
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6318",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Adium is displaying only Facebook contacts who message me first When I look at my Facebook contact list in Adium, I can see only people who write to me first. When I enable show offline contacts I can see all of them displayed as offline, however when I go directly to Facebook, many of them are displayed online.
I've done little search and it looks like many people are having issues with Facebook chat in Adium, but I didn't find any fix.
A: Did you setup your account using the "Facebook chat" wizard?
If so, you can delete this account, it's not working anymore since Facebook enabled to Jabber access.
You should try to create a Jabber-type account and enter those informations:
*
*Username: your_facebook_username@chat.facebook.com
*Password: same as your Facebook profile
*Server: chat.facebook.com
*Port: 5222
*Use SSL
You can find more details on the Facebook Chat about page.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6325",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Safari keywords? I'm looking to imitate the functionality of Firefox's keywords in Safari. That is, I want to be able to type wp Apple in the address bar, and Safari should go to the Wikipedia article on Apple. I found a Sourceforge project, SafariKeywords, which does just this, but it was last updated in 2004 and doesn't work on Intel-based Macs.
Does the latest version of Safari have this functionality built in and I just didn't find it, or is there something like SafariKeywords I can use, or is this just a feature I'll have to live without?
A: I understand this is an older thread, but for the next person who comes along, I recommend taking a look at Safari Keyword Search. It is a Safari extension that adds exactly what you are looking for.
A: I don't know if this is what you're looking, but this feature exists on Alfred. It's also on the Mac App Store. And did I mention it's free?
It's basically a spotlight replacement with a few twists. With it, you can set custom searches for any site you want:
The main advantage is that you can search from anywhere you want, you don't have to be on Safari.
A: Alfred, or another app launcher is a great option.
However, if you want to do this without hopping to another application, you can use a text expansion utility. That way, you type wp and it converts to http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=. Then, you just have to type in your query and hit enter. This can be done with 10.6's built-in text replacement tool.
Go to the Language and Text System Preferences pane. Choose the Text tab. Click the plus button to create your new substitution rule.
A: SafariStand is a SIMBL plugin has this feature. They call it QuickSearch.
For your Wikipedia example (which I also use) you would add this search:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Special:Search/@key
A: Omnikey, an extension for Safari does exactly this.
A: I ended up installing Alfred as was suggested, and I've come to like it! But I completely understand those of you who don't want to install a Spotlight alternative. I found a Safari plugin called Keywurl which I think is exactly what I was looking for. I have not given it a try but the description fits the bill perfectly.
Also, if you give Keywurl a try with the latest Safari 5, you may have problems which this blog post has addressed.
A: There is also an ad-blocking proxy called GlimmerBlocker that I have used to do this. However, while this gives you "two plugins in one", GlimmerBlocker occasionally has problems with new versions of Safari on Snow Leopard.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6327",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do I fix this Smart Folder problem? It keeps switching off of "This Mac" I created a Smart Folder in the finder called "TV" which searches for files of type movie created in the last 7 days. When I created the search in the first place, I clicked on "Search This Mac" to find all files anywhere. But now, even when I have new files that I've downloaded nothing will show up in the folder. When I click on Search criteria on the top it will say
Search: This Mac TV
and TV will be selected. But, remember, I saved it as "This Mac"
Why won't it stick to "This Mac"? Why does it keep going to "TV" which doesn't make sense anyway, if there's nothing in a folder, then it can't find files in that folder of the type that it's supposed to be searching for...
A: Here's the steps I used to do what you're looking for which seem to be working the way you want.
Open Finder and click File > New Smart Folder - or press ⌥⌘N
Then setup as I have in the screenshot below and click 'Save' near the top right.
Then, when the little drop-down menu appears for you to save, select the options like I have below.
Now, you'll get a window left behind like this.
Now, close your new Smart Folder. Then in Finder, open a normal finder window with either File > New Finder Window or ⌘N
Your 'TV' Smart Folder will be listed under the 'Search For' section on the bottom-left if you expand it out, like so
A: Does it ask you to save when you click on "This Mac" and then switch away to, say, another search? I just tried it out, it should ask you to save.
Are you on 10.5 or 10.6?
Cheers.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6330",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Shortcuts & gestures you can't live without What are some gestures or shortcuts you use on a daily basis that you can't live without?
I've found the BetterTouchTool preference pane add on to be great for creating custom gestures on a per app or universal basis
A: ⌘ + ~ to move between open windows in the current application
A: ⌥+⌘+⇧+V to PASTE AND MATCH STYLE
(paste plain text, maintaining formatting of document you are pasting into) - if supported by the program
A: With Quicksilver, I added a ton of keyboard shortcuts for programs and folders, such as:
*
*⌘+⇧+P - Pictures
*⌘+⇧+D - Documents
*⌘+⇧+C - Google Chrome
*⌘+⇧+T - Terminal
*⌘+⇧+H - Current work folder
*⌘+⇧+E - Root of drive
*⌘+⇧+M - Movies
Ones I use most that are native to Mac:
*
*⌘+⇧+⌥+esc - Force kill app
*⌘+⇧+4 - Screenshot with saved jpeg on desktop
*⌘+I - Get info on file
*⌘+[ - Back
*⌘+] - Forward
*⌘+↓ - Go into folder
*⌘+↑ - Go out of folder
*⏎ on file - rename file
A: Three finger swipe left or right to move between tabs in my browsers.
Configured this universally through BetterTouchTool - it simply activates the appropriate keyboard shortcut
A: ⌘ + ⇧ + ⌫ = Empty trash.
There's something satisfying about hearing that trash emptying sound : )
A: Capture Screen shot:
⌘+⇧+3 (captures entire screen immediately)
⌘+⇧+4 (draw a rectangle to capture)
⌘+⇧+4, then space (click a window to capture)
Add ctrl to any of the above to copy to clipboard, rather than saving a PNG to the Desktop.
A: Sleep all displays:
ctrl+⇧+⏏
A: Do it and don't ever tell the victim how to undo:
ctrl+⌥+⌘+8 (only until Lion) (spoilers)
Couldn't possibly live without it, above all. It was fun while it was default... :-(
So, I'll add a handful of spoilers below on how it could still be done.
Unfortunately it now comes disabled. To re-enable it, find Keyboard Shortcuts Accessibility.
Or, after OS X 7, it won't be as smooth (even if you do practice positioning the mouse):
⌥+⌘+F5 then select Invert Display colors (apple article)
A: Seems like a silly question for Stack Exchange, but here goes. And I'll be more realistic than most folks.
*
*Two finger scroll
*⌘+Q (quits app)
*⌘+W (closes document/window)
*space for Quick Look in Finder
*space for play/pause in most media players
*⌘+C (copy)
*⌘+V (paste)
A: Hot corners
*
*Upper left - show all apps
*Lower left - show frontmost app
*Upper right - show dashboard
*Lower right - show spaces
Track pad gestures
*
*Two-finger scroll
*Four swipe up - show desktop
*Three-finger swipe down in Google Chrome - show tab exposé
3rd party system
*
*⌥+⇥ - cycle through frontmost applications windows (using Witch)
*⌘+§ - show my Finder visor (using Total Finder)
Misc Apple
*
*ctrl+⌘+K - switch keyboard layout (I regularly switch between Swedish and American)
*⌥+⇧+volume button - raise/lower volume using 1/4 increments
*⌘+P - set in Keyboard Shortcuts to "Save as PDF..." which allows you to press cmd-p followed by cmd-p when using e.g. a web browser to print to PDF.
*⌥+←/→ - move caret back/forward one word
*⌘+←/→ - move caret to beginning/end of line
Misc Applications
*
*⇧+⌘+T - undo close tab in Chrome
*⌘+space - Launch Bar
A: These are my current BetterTouchTool settings:
A: ⌘ + , to open the current application's preferences. Works in practically every OS X app that has a preference pane.
By comparison, in Windows preferences don't have a common shortcut and the menu entry, typically labelled either "Preferences" or "Options", can be found pretty much anywhere in the menu hierarchy (although often it's in one of Edit, Tools or View). Command-comma was one of the things I really loved when I switched to OS X.
A: ⌘ + ⇥ to switch between open applications
A: Let's see...
*
*⌘ + space for bringing up Alfred
*⌘ + ⇥ for switching between open applications
*⌘ + T to open a new tab in Safari
*⌘ + ⇧ + 3 to take a screenshot
A: Safari or Chrome
*
*⌘ + ⇧ + I : Send email containing current page's url + title as subject
BetterTouchTool
*
*Three finger click : middle click (the most useful)
*Three finger swipe left : ⌘ + ⇧ + [
*Three finger swipe right : ⌘ + ⇧ + ]
The three finger swipes, work in most apps which have tabs or tab-like interface i.e. Web Browsers, Terminal, iChat, etc
A: Safari/Chrome/Firefox:
three-finger-click: ⌘+W
two-finger-swipe-up: ⌘+⇧+T
This makes closing and reopening tabs super easy. With a three-finger click I can close a tab, and a two finger swipe up I can reopen it. Quick access to tab history is great when you've got lots of projects happening in lots of windows.
A: Safari
*
*Rotate Right - ⌘+⇧+]
*Rotate Left - ⌘+⇧+[
*Threefinger Click - MiddleClick
The rotate right/left gesture is kind of like your twisting a bottle-cap on and off. I use this to switch between tabs if I'm just browsing the web.
A: I'd rather use KeyCue from Ergonis Software which helps me find all the shortcuts and gestures an app can have. Check it out here!
But my favorite commands remain ⌘ + ⇧ + F in the finder to create smart folders.
A: There are only a few I couldn't live without…
⌘+\ <- Using visor, I've got terminal set to drop down from the top half of the screen. I use it very, very often
⌘+ctrl+D <- Dictionary - works most of the places I need it to.
⌘+space <- Spotlight - Invaluable.
I may be moving away from terminal, and towards iTerm2. iTerm2 has the same functionality built into it.
A: No one seems to have mentioned the ⌥ keymodifier very much!
⌘ +W Closes a window
⌘+M Minimises a window
Throw ⌥ in with these and it will apply the command to all windows in that application!
⌘+⌥+W Closes all windows in current app
⌘+⌥+M Minimises all windows in current app
Bonus tip: Hold ⇧ to slow down practically all window animations (minimise, Exposé, etc).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6331",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "14"
} |
Q: Control draft saving in Apple Mail? Is it at all possible to change the time for saving drafts in Apple Mail? I use MobileMe and whenever I send an email, the draft doesn't get deleted automatically. I don't want to switch off saving of drafts, but would like to increase the time between saves. Since I don't need to save drafts for short emails.
A: If you go into Preferences, Accounts, select your account, then select the "Mailbox Behaviors" tab, there's an option to disable saving drafts on the server. I know you said you didn't want to disable saving of drafts, but this option will still save the draft on your computer, yet it won't mess up Mobile Me.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6335",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I disable the Screen Saver on the login window? How can I disable the Screen Saver on the login window?
A: You can edit the .plist file at /Library/Preferences/com.apple.screensaver either using a text editor, Plist Editor (requires the OS X Developer Tools) or the defaults command in Terminal to remove the screensaver at login window.
Like this:
sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.apple.screensaver loginWindowIdleTime 0
A: It isn't possible to disable the login screensaver in Mountain Lion due to a bug. According to https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4540671?start=0&tstart=0 the best you can do is log into root's screensaver settings and change it to Message which uses less resources.
See https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/16515/21181 for how to do that.
A: I believe this does the trick (at least it seems to have worked for mefor several hours now):
sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.apple.screensaver loginWindowIdleTime 0
This disables the screensaver in the loginwindow.
A: For some reason I don't understand yet, the solution in the accepted answer didn't work for me. Below is an alternative method that actually did work for me.
Before doing anything, i noticed that a file called com.apple.screensaver.plist did not yet exist in /Library/Preferences/. But issuing the defaults -command as mentioned in the accepted answer created this file with correct loginWindowIdleTime-entry just fine. This was confirmed both with defaults read /Library/Preferences/com.apple.screensaver as well as by manually confirming the files' existence and inspecting its' contents.
However, it didn't seem to have any effect on the screensaver-behaviour in the Login Screen whatsoever.
I then used a different approach that actually did work:
*
*I opened a command-prompt (Terminal window)
*First I issued $ > sudo -s to become root
*Then, as root, I started System Preferences: # > /Applications/System\ Preferences.app/Contents/MacOS/System\ Preferences
*And finally I went into the Desktop and Screen Savers Preference-Pane to use the regular GUI to disable the screensaver timeout.
This did the trick for me.
I'm wondering though, if the defaults-command perhaps did actually work fine already, just the changed plist-value wasn't picked-up (synced) yet by the (still running?) screensaver process…
A: The problem is that the login screen is not the result of the screen saver, I lock my Mac when I go out. The screen saver appears by itself, even if it is disabled from SysPref.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6336",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Apple Mail incoming mail notification When you get a new mail in Entourage then a small window appears with some basic info about the new mail you receveid. Is it possible to do the same thing with Apple Mail?
A: Try Growl and the GrowlMail plugin, simply click to view the message, and it's free! http://growl.info/
A: I've used Mail.appetizer before and it was my favorite of all the mail notification apps I've tried. It's not yet compatible officially with Snow Leopard, but there are development versions available that will probably work (link from their twitter account).
Note that in recent versions of OS X, Mail requires that plugins list the specific versions of it that they support; they can't just say they're compatible with anything newer than a certain version. The current development version of Mail.appetizer is for 10.6.5 and Mail 4.4; if you're running 10.6.6, that might be a problem. See this OSXHints article for a way to fix it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6337",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Time Machine backup is slow. How can I speed it up? My time machine is backup is very slow. Connection is FireWire 800. Transfer is around 5 Mb/s or 0.5 MB/s, which seems slow. I've seen plenty of mention online of very slow Time Machine backups. What are some techniques or suggestions to speed this up?
I have:
*
*Run the Disk Utility Repair tool. Everything is fine.
*Disabled Spotlight on the remote disk
Searching for backupd in system.log gives the following:
13:29:33 Starting standard backup
13:29:33 Backing up to: /Volumes/BACKUP_DISK/Backups.backupdb
13:29:36 Event store UUIDs don't match for volume: Macintosh HD
13:29:36 Waiting for index to be ready (101)
13:29:55 Node requires deep traversal:/ reason:must scan subdirs|new event db|
13:42:53 No pre-backup thinning needed: 39.84 GB requested (including padding), 71.68 GB available
13:42:53 Waiting for index to be ready (100)
14:23:37 Bulk setting Spotlight attributes failed.
14:29:39 Copied 2.0 GB of 28.7 GB, 69560 of 113624 items
15:29:57 Copied 2.8 GB of 28.7 GB, 69560 of 113624 items
16:30:00 Copied 3.3 GB of 28.7 GB, 69560 of 113624 items
17:30:04 Copied 3.8 GB of 28.7 GB, 69560 of 113624 items
18:30:07 Copied 4.3 GB of 28.7 GB, 69560 of 113624 items
18:51:23 Bulk setting Spotlight attributes failed.
19:30:07 Copied 4.8 GB of 28.7 GB, 69999 of 113624 items
20:30:19 Copied 5.4 GB of 28.7 GB, 69999 of 113624 items
21:30:28 Copied 6.2 GB of 28.7 GB, 69999 of 113624 items
21:38:36 Stopping backupd to allow ejection of backup destination disk!
A: On El Capitan to High Sierra OS - the io is throttled in some cases. You can review these steps in case they apply in your case. Not everyone sees this speed up, but it shouldn’t be hard to test and reverse if it doesn’t help you. Anyone on Mojave and newer should look to other fixes like testing a backup to a blank or erased drive.
Time Machine ridiculously slow after El Capitan upgrade
The throttle should be evident in observing the backupd usage of the filesystem:
sudo fs_usage backupd
Writing a command to /etc/sysctl.conf and then restarting should disable that throttle:
echo 'debug.lowpri_throttle_enabled=0' | sudo tee -a /etc/sysctl.conf
Or without restarting:
sudo sysctl debug.lowpri_throttle_enabled=0
You'll want to watch for other performance issues (extra CPU usage, other IO slowing, increased energy usage when backing up) after making that low level system tuning adjustment.
A: Unfortunately, the solution in this case was:
Format disk (lose old backups)
Now the disk backs up at full speed.
A: According to this thread:
Delete the "in progress" folder on the TM drive and then things will operate at a normal speed.
Note: That did not fix the problem in my case.
A: You could try renaming the /.Spotlight-V100 folder on the TM volume. I've never tried this but Spotlight is used to decide which files are new/changed since the last backup. The only thing that comes to mind in reading your question, is maybe the index is broken and needs to be rebuilt, and TM in the mean time is running that search live, rather than indexed.
Long shot.
A: It could also be related to MRT process. For me, when I removed MRT process, backup speed becomes normal. By the way, MRT is sth called malware remove tool which comes with the security update and it will take lots of CPU to do scanning work. There are some articles on how to remove it.
A: Add the Time Machine disk to the Privacy list of Spotlight (in System Preferences) so that Spotlight does not spend time accessing that drive.
A: Fragmentation
In my experience, it's very common for the catalog B-tree to become very fragmented. On a volume that is both large and full, this type of fragmentation can have a significant effect.
At any time
Use the demo version of iDefrag to view statistics.
When the backup volume is as close as possible to full
Consider using the Metadata algorithm of the full version of Defrag, or a comparable utility, to defragment the catalog and other critical files.
(For a Time Machine backup volume, don't bother with full defragmentation.)
Other utilities
fileXray — this alone can not defragment the relevant files, but for analysis: I know of nothing better than fileXray.
Cross reference
Do Macs need to be defragmented?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6338",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: Keynote on the iPad does not to the projector (VGA output)? On an iPad, when we hit play for a Keynote presentation while connected to a projector via VGA cable, the app closes down.
What tricks are there for getting iPad-Keynote to work with a projector?
A: we called Apple they said we need to re-set the iPad
A: It might be the file: have you tried another presentation? It may have altered in some way during the translation such that it displays ok on the device but fails when output.
Is the projector you're connecting to 1024 x 768? I've had it work with a projector of another size, but it only sends an image that size. It's not likely, but perhaps there's a VGA sync issue that's crashing the app.
A: Turn off the iPad (shut down) and then turn it on again. It worked for me.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6342",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to import a spreadsheet into Numbers from an email attachment? I want to know how to open a spreadheet email attachement in the Numbers app on the iPad.
Here are the steps I have taken with no luck:
*
*On the iPad I open my email.
*I see a spreadsheet attachment.
*I click it and it previews.
Now how do I get the spreadhseet into Numbers?
The Apple directions say the following:
'OpenReceive as an email attachment. Preview the spreadsheet and tap the “Open in” button to open Numbers.'
My problem is I cant find the "Open in" option on the iPad??
A: This screen shot is from Keynote for iPad, but Numbers for iPad is pretty much the same:
When you view the file in Preview mode, the title bar of the document should look pretty similar to the above. Over there on the right is the Open in… button.
There might be a button that you have to click first before you see the Open in… button.
Other ways to transfer files to your iPad:
*
*Use iTunes file sharing to import iWork documents
*Use the iWork.com public beta
*Use MobileMe iDisk or a WebDAV server
A: ok the anwer is not to open the attachment. Touch and hold the closed attachment and then it will ask you if you want to open in numbers. Once you have done that it will save automatically.
A: New Answer:
1) Open the attachment:
2) Select the icon as if you were going to forward in mail:
3) I then received the option to mail, save in numbers etc.
I just saved an excel file to numbers on my IPhone 6.
No I am not a techno geek but a 65 year old ex CPM type
Philip B.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6345",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: ical change color shading day and weekend Is it possible to change the shading of the selected day/today/weekend in iCal?
The light blue tone which is used to mark the current Day is almost impossible to recognise. Same Problem different color on the highlighted days.
A: This question has been asked on the Internet before, and no one has ever found an answer.
The 'fixes' that have been suggested are all just to improve your computer screen's contrast.One way to do that is to go to the Universal Access pane of System Preferences. Play with the Enhance Contrast slider in the Seeing tab.
Sorry there isn't a better way to do this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6346",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: App Keys (.plist keys) Isn't there some wiki or apple documentation which shows which app keys can be used for apple software?
NOTE: I searched the whole net and didn't find any databases on this topic, so if there isn't really such a database maybe we should create one where we can share these keys. Is it possible to create a wikipage in this manner on stackexchange?
A: Well-built applications (hopefully including most of Apple's own apps) should be self-documenting -- Apple recommends that developers include a preference manifest inside each application that describes the preference keys they use (including their names, data types, descriptions, reasonable default values, etc).
To view an app's manifest, right-click (or control-click) on the app, and select Show Package Contents; then open Contents/Resources, and look for a file or folder named after the app's bundle id with a ".manifest" suffix (e.g. Safari's is in a sub-bundle, so it's actually in Safari.app/Contents/Resources/com.apple.safari.manifest/Contents/Resources/com.apple.safari.manifest).
The manifest file is itself in .plist format, and may be a little hard to ready by hand, but if you look for the name values listed under <key>pfm_name</key>, you should find what you're looking for.
A: As far as I know the answer to your question is "no".
For any given software you can use defaults read to get whatever options are set, but if there are default options that are not set, you won't see them.
Blacktree Secrets is building a DB of defaults commands (which modify app plists).
A: Manifest Destiny is a site used to track Manifest (option) files for apps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6349",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Optical Character Recognition (OCR) Tool to Convert Pictures or Images to Text I have scanned text. I am looking for an affordable OCR tool (Optical Character Recognition) tool. I tried OCRTOOLS from the App Store, but it crashes with the first picture I tried.
Any recommendations?
A: If you use Google Docs, it has OCR built in.
When you're uploading something, just check the Convert text from PDF or image files to Google Docs documentsoption.
You can download Google Docs files as whatever format you want.
A: Are you comfortable on the command line? If you have fink or macports installed, then you can easily install gocr or tesseract. I've had some success with each of these. Note that tesseract is, I think, the tool that Google uses for their book scanning.
For tesseract, images must be in TIF format and have extension TIF or tif (one F, not two).
Adobe tools also have effective and built-in OCR, as far as I know, but I have never used them.
A: I struggled with the same problem for several months and felt that I needed an intuitive and elegant workflow for OCR. I hated the terminal solutions and to make sure I put in the right format. I wanted something I would love to use. This drove me to creating to following App:
You may find more information here: www.condenseapp.com
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6352",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How do I stop iTunes from automatically backing up the iPad? I'm trying to move some pictures from my laptop to my iPad, but every time the first thing iTunes starts doing is making a backup of the iPad.
But since I already keep a backup at my desktop, I want iTunes to back off and just let me move the pictures!
So how can I prevent iTunes from making automatic backups?
I'm using Windows 7. But feel free to leave OS X solutions as well.
A: Mac Answer:
You can disable device backups with this terminal command:
defaults write com.apple.iTunes DeviceBackupsDisabled -bool true
More info here.
A: Go to iTunes and open its Preferences window (Command ⌘+,). Select Devices from the toolbar and check the "Prevent iPads, iPods from syncing automatically" option.
A: This worked for me on Windows 7.
First make sure iTunes is closed, then follow these steps:
*
*Open the command window (Start > Run > Cmd)
*Go to the iTunes folder using either cd C:\Program Files\iTunes or cd C:\Program Files(x86)\iTunes depending on where iTunes is installed on your PC
*Type this command: iTunes /setPrefInt AutomaticDeviceBackupsDisabled 1
Voila! Your iLife just got better.
A: PC Answer:
You can edit the iTunesPrefs.xml file to disable backups on Windows.This article has directions.
A: With iOS 5, it is possible to back up to iCloud. You can use this to your advantage in this situation if you tell your iPad to back up to iCloud. It will then no longer back up to your computer.
This can be done either from iTunes or on your iPad itself Here's a screenshot in the General tab, visible when a device is selected.
A: There is a curved arrow with a dot near to it in the middle of top bar. Click on it once to stop the back up. Then only the sync will continue.
A: When I change the setting "Prevent iPods, iPhones, and iPads from syncing automatically" in the interface the setting that gets updated in the defaults is dontAutomaticallySyncIPods.
Use the following commands to read/write this setting in the terminal:
defaults read com.apple.iTunes dontAutomaticallySyncIPods
defaults write com.apple.iTunes dontAutomaticallySyncIPods -bool true
The weird thing is when I open iTunes it changes this setting back to false unless I set it through the interface.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6360",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: Connect to VNC from Windows I'm trying to connect to a mac screen sharing from a windows machine using tightvnc
I'm getting the error
"Server did not offer supported security type"
Any ideas on how to fix this ?
A: If you use Vine Server VNC as the server on the mac and open up port 5900, and VNC Viewer on the PC (or any other vnc viewer) you'll be fine. Its not native, but its more flexible.
This, of course, is a free solution.
See this thread on mac screen sharing:
*
*Controlling a Mac remotely
Vine Server here:
*
*http://sourceforge.net/projects/osxvnc/
UltraVNC (client viewer only):
*
*http://www.uvnc.com/download/1082/1082viewer.html
A: I think the solution is shared here - http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=380251 (its someways in the middle of the thread). Do give it a whirl.
A: I've gotten this error too, from all the free VNC clients I've tried on Windows. None of them are able to authenticate the way the Mac wants; you will probably have to buy the more advanced version for it to work. TightVNC doesn't appear to be offered for money (just one free version), but RealVNC does and will probably work.
You could also figure out how to configure the security on the Mac so the free Windows client will work, but that's a.) probably a very techie thing to do and b.) dangerous because you're exposing your machine to control for anybody with network access to it.
A: Make sure that;
in System Preferences, Sharing, Screen Sharing, Computer Settings:
you have "VNC viewers may control screen with password:" checked. And a password filled in.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6362",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: What hard drive is used for the 500 GB Macbook Pro option from Apple? I'm looking to replace my Macbook Pro 13" hard drive. I tried upgrading to a Seagate Momentus XT 500 GB, but returned the drive because it caused the palm rest to vibrate when pressed (I installed correctly; the problem disappeared when I swapped back the stock drive).
What drive is used by Apple as the 500 GB option (for both the 7200 and 5400 RPM) when ordering from their store (I figure this should be a good option)? Anyone else have experience with any large notebook drives that don't cause vibration or noise issues? Performance is a second to not having a computer that irritates my senses to no end.
A: I have been using a Western Digital Scorpio Blue 500GB in my June 2009 MBP without any problems. I have tried the Seagate 7200 rpm 2.5" 500 GB as well, but that did warm up and vibrate more than I liked, so moved it to my Mac Mini at home, where it behaves OK.
A: I don't know about the 7200, but my mid-2010 MBP has the following (from system profiler):
Hitachi HTS545050B9SA02:
Capacity: 500.11 GB (500,107,862,016 bytes)
Model: Hitachi HTS545050B9SA02
Revision: PB4AC60W
Native Command Queuing: Yes
Queue Depth: 32
Removable Media: No
Detachable Drive: No
BSD Name: disk0
Rotational Rate: 5400
Medium Type: Rotational
I too had trouble with noise and vibration with a Seagate Momentus XT (the hybrid drive). After reinstalling the stock drive it's quiet and vibration free again.
A: when I bought mine, I selected the 320Gb 7200rpm, and never look at 500GB as I always said to me that, for big space, NAS Server or External 1/2Tb would be the best option, as when I'm moving, I really don't need that much space, only when I'm at desk.
So, instead, I upgraded to a 240Gb SSD from MacSales (OWC), and ... WOW, what a speed! what a thrill to use this drive! no sound, no moving peaces, faster as you can dream.
See here a normal drive (HHD) versus an SSD booting up
image below blue drive is the SSD drive, outside drive is the WD Scorpio Blue 320Gb
then I also bough a 2,5'' Bus powered enclosure to put my 320Gb native drive as now I use to keep my recent stuff including photos.
hope it helps.
A: I do have a 7200 drive in my Mid-2010 MBP, it's also a Hitachi one (like with @calavera):
Hitachi HTS725050A9A362:
Kapazität: 500.11 GB (500'107'862'016 Byte)
Modell: Hitachi HTS725050A9A362
Version: PC4ACB1E
Native Command Queuing: Ja
Queue Depth: 32
Wechselmedien: Nein
Absteckbares Laufwerk: Nein
BSD-Name: disk0
Rotationsrate: 7200
Medientyp: Rotierend
It a quiet drive, like the entire computer.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6372",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Apple Sudden Motion Sensor and Hard Drive Upgrade I'm looking to upgrade a notebook hard drive and wanted to use the Hitachi Travelstar 5K750. Will it work with the Apple Sudden Motion Sensor? Do I have any way of identifying drives that will play nice with this technology? I've heard of problems in the past, should I be concerned?
I'm running a Macbook Pro 13" (2009). Thanks!
A: As long as the drive doesn't have a sensor itself, there will be no problem.
If the drive has an acelerometer for detecting movement, them you must disable Apple's Sudden Motion Sensor, as described here: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1934
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6375",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Update iPod touch OS remotely I currently live in an area that has very poor internet connection. I can log in to iTunes but it would cost a fortune to download the updates to the OS. Is there a way I can have somebody bring the OS update on a thumb drive and load it from there?
A: When you plug in the iPod touch, Alt- or Option ⌥-click the device's "Restore" button in iTunes. This will allow you to choose the appropriate ipsw file to load on the device.
Have someone download the appropriate firmware for your device. Below are links to Apple's downloads of the 4.2.1 firmware.
*
*iPod touch 2G firmware 4.2.1
*iPod touch 3G firmware 4.2.1
*iPod touch 4G firmware 4.2.1
A: Option ⌥-click (or Alt-click if using Windows) the restore button on the iPod screen, then navigate to the IPSW file you want to use to restore.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6378",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Missing advanced network settings for iPhone USB/Bluetooth tethering My iPhone is tethered to my Mac laptop via Bluetooth or USB.
I want to set up a proxy on my Mac for use with the iPhone network interface, but unfortunately in Mac OS X 10.6, under System Preferences -> Network, the iPhone Bluetooth and iPhone USB network interfaces lack the standard options under the Advanced… tab. These Advanced… options are available in other interfaces (e.g., Airport, Ethernet, etc.).
I want to use the polipo caching proxy for tethered browsing, but I am unable to define an HTTP Proxy in the GUI, since these options are missing.
The prefpane windows for my tethered iPhone's network interfaces (Bluetooth & USB) is missing the normal options for network interfaces.
Does anyone know a command line workaround for setting up an HTTP proxy, or some way of modifying the prefpane settings for the iPhone network interfaces?
A: You can use the networksetup command. For example:
sudo networksetup -setsocksfirewallproxy "iPhone USB" localhost 8888
Take a look at http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/#documentation/Darwin/Reference/ManPages/man8/networksetup.8.html
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6381",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: How can I configure the iPhone to send/receive mail through Gmail, but using a different e-mail address? I have a pobox.com account whose address I use as my main e-mail address and that forwards my messages to a Gmail address.
Eventough that is the address I tell my friends and coleagues, when I send e-mail from my iPhone it uses the default gmail.com address, and so people start to pick that as my e-mail address.
How should I configure a Gmail account in the iPhone that uses my pobox.com address for sent messages, instead of the gmail.com address? How should I set up storage of sent/junk/trash messages? How will Gmail archiving work?
A: This worked for me
Assuming you have already setup the alternate account in your gmail
*
*Remove the gmail account from your iphone
*Add new mail account
*
*Settings > Mail > Add Account > Other
*Enter standard gmail id and password in New Account screen
*Enter standard gmail id and password in IMAP and SMTP screens (imap.gmail.com, smtp.gmail.com)
*After account is setup, under "IMAP Account Information" change address field to the desired account (Note that the "Incoming Mail Server" settings will remain as
gmail info, this is the difference between creating the account manually and using the automatic gmail setup)
Enjoy
A: I've found a nice step-through, and it does what I need, but messages I delete in my iPhone continue appearing in the Gmail Inbox in the browser because the "inbox" label isn't removed.
http://5thirtyone.com/apple/how-to-proper-gmail-imap-for-iphone-apple-mail/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6383",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How to find a telephone number strored in contacts by searching for a substring on iPhone I'd like to search my iPhone contacts using a part of a telephone number as a key (search by substring). The integrated spotlight search, however, doesn't return any entries when searching for a full telephone number or for its part. The number formatting in search doesn't appear to make any difference.
Suppose there an entry in the Contacts.app (number is shown exactly as it apperars on the screen):
John Smith
mobile: +41 76 123 23 43
Neither of the following searches in spotlight returns "John Smith", as expected
+41 76 123 23 43
+41761232343
2343
Is it possible to search for a number using spotlight or an alternative application?
Tested on iPhone 3GS with iOS 4.2.1
A: There is an app for that. :-)
One of the first apps I installed: Contact by Number.
Actually, there are a few others, and this one hasn't been updated since 2008, but it does what you want and has served me well.
A: It seems that phone numbers that have the +1 in front of the number can’t be searched in Contacts. When I edited the number and deleted the +1 I could search on any part of the number. This worked in the Contacts app and Spotlight.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6384",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to set up a default program opening an unknown file extension? I tried to open a file with an extension name of adb in Finder (to be precise, PathFinder).
When I clicked the file, vi editor is activated to open the adb file. I didn't do anything with the adb file, so my guess is that vi editor changed the system setup to open it whenever unknown file format is opened.
How can I change this behavior? I want to open TextMate as a default.
A: Finder Directions:
Click a file of that type. Press cmd-i. Reveal the Open With: tab of the Get Info window that appears. Select the app you want. Click the Change All button below that menu.
Now, all files of the type you opened will open with the application you selected.
A: Check this answer which points you to RCDefaultApp so you can toy with extensions and default apps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6387",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Always Asked to Configure Firewall for iTunes Whenever I open iTunes, I get the standard OS X dialog, Do you want the application "iTunes.app" to accept incoming network connections?
Every time I click allow, but I am asked the same thing without fail the next time I open iTunes.
In the Advanced section of the Firewall tab of the Security System Preferences pane, I see that iTunes is in fact set to allow. Changing the firewall settings makes no difference.
Any ideas for how to get this setting to stick?
A: I looked at Am1rr3za's article, and eventually it just said to reinstall iTunes, which I did.
That worked.
Am1rr3za, post as an answer if you want the points. Otherwise, I'll accept this one.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6389",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: What is the best way to set up a shared calendar in iCal? I am looking to have a shared calendar which my partner and I can access. I have a MobileMe account and my partner has a Google account. We both have Macs, I have an iPhone and she has a Blackberry.
I am looking for a solution where we can create a calendar that we both have access to from iCal (and maybe iPhone / Blackberry if possible) and that we can both edit.
So far however, I have not managed to get anything to work. The logical solution seemed to be to create a Google Calendar on my partner's account and subscribe to it on my MobileMe account but I cant get any changes I make to be pushed back to the Google calendar.
A: Make a Google Calendar, and sync it to iCal.
Directions are in this Google article.
A: The way we do this is having a MobileMe Family account, and share using that. You can, as Nathan suggests, use Google - but it's more complicated (and we ended up using MobileMe because we had accounts anyway).
If you're happy sharing your password with your partner, then why not log into your mobileMe account using iCal on both computers and iPhones (but not Blackberrys). You can specify to only sync Calendars and any changes will be reflected over the air on all the computers or phones.
You'll need to add the account using the Settings app -> Mail,Contacts and Calendars on your iPhone, and the Accounts tab of iCal's preferences. I'm not sure how to create an over the air calendar sync on a BlackBerry.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6392",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: No sound from internal speakers on a Macbook? I'm afraid I may have irreversibly harmed my internal speakers, or sound system in general.
Yesterday, I was trying to find a way to hook up my electric guitar to the computer. I, logically, thought that going through my amp and running the amp to the macbook line-in was the best course of action.
What came through my external speakers was just muffle-ly cracked noise that were very unstable sounding. After failing to get a decent sound, I found that my sound in general sounded really weird.
Now I get sound through the headphone jack, but it has odd sound artifacts around any sounds that are played, and when removed the internal speakers do not make any sound at all (but APPEAR available on the system and I can still adjust the volume). Here's what I've tried so far:
*
*Tickling the sensor in the phone jack, managed to turn the red light on and off several times. No effect.
*Hardware reset (by holding the power button for a while... could not hear the system "dings" though, due to the absence of sound)
*Logging in to Linux partition. Same problem there.
*Changing sound inputs a couple times and starting up and shutting down garageband with new and old projects.
Any other ideas? Or have I permanently harmed my sound system?
EDIT: Wanted to add that this macbook is past warranty and there's no apple stores nearby anyway. So I won't be taking it to a retailer.
A: Given that you changed OS's -- to the linux partition -- and still had the same problem, it sounds like a hardware problem.
If you did damage the hardware, don't worry -- you're not completely screwed. This may be the best excuse to upgrade your audio hardware with an external sound card.
Creative has some great ones that I have used along with Adobe Audition. However most of them are PC only... but in their professional brand (E-MU), they have some great ones for mac.
Creative's professional brand, E-MU is what I currently use.
Details here:
*
*http://us.store.creative.com/0404-USB-2.0/M/B000IXNE3E.htm
Amazon link here:
*
*http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Professional-0404-USB-2-0/dp/B000IXNE3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1295028320&sr=8-1
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6395",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is it possible to find the serial number of stolen devices using a Mac that they've been connected to? For a number of devices that were stolen, can I find their serial number on a Mac that I still have and which the devices have been connected to at some point? In other words, are there any applications (or the OS) which might have kept a record of any of these devices' serial number(s)? I'm specifically thinking about:
*
*iPod
*Cinema Display
*Time Capsule
*another Mac
*a camera
Would the connections have shown up in a log file somewhere with their serial number included? At least for an iPod, I wouldn't be surprised if its serial number gets recorded by iTunes somewhere. And iPhoto just might record a camera's as well.
A: How to get serial numbers for displays:
Go to /Library/Preferences/com.apple.windowserver.plist. Open this with TextWrangler or a similar utility. Look for a DisplaySerialNumber key with an integer value that isn't 0. With any luck, this should be the s/n of your display.
If you haven't used this display for a while, the records of it may be gone.
Also, it appears that this isn't guaranteed. Double-check if possible.
How to get the serial numbers for iPods:
Open /Library/Preferences/com.apple.ipod.plist.
Look under the Devices dictionary. Any iPod you've connected will have all its info there, including the s/n (under Serial Number).
Good luck.
A: $ grep -i serial /Library/Preferences/*.plist
Shows TimeMachine and BlueTooth in addition to the two files mentioned by @Nathan.
Also, the iPod plist in ~/Library/Preferences contains serial numbers.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6397",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How do I remove ads from Cydia? The ads from Cydia are really intrusive and slows down the application a lot. How do I remove them?
A: One solutios is to edit /etc/hosts file and add:
127.0.0.1 pagead2.googlesyndication.com
127.0.0.1 media.fastclick.net
127.0.0.1 cpxinteractive.com
127.0.0.1 adserving.cpxinteractive.com
If you know more addresses let me know.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6400",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: iPhone 3G screen partially broken I have an iPhone 3G which had a cracked screen. I replaced the digitizer last November and this morning the left third of it stopped responding to touch. What can I do to fix it?
A: This seems like a definite hardware problem.
You can take it to a retailer, send/take it to Apple, or do it yourself.
Here are DIY instructions and parts ($99)
A: The digitizer seemed to have been broken beyond repair so I did three things:
*
*I made a dial pad app that moved the buttons out of the damaged area. (Note that I am a registered developer at the time of this writing and was able to install this on my device sans jailbreak.)
*Went to the Apple store. They said that it would be $199 to repair, but they don't do repairs anymore. The only option was to replace the phone. They refused that too because I had put in a non-Apple digitizer.
*I got an upgrade to the iPhone 4.
A: Aside from a hard reset or restore coming into the picture, reseating the display cabling (if you are still able to get inside) would be a good call...though if it was DIY and you weren't grounded while handling the components, then it's likely ESD damage catching up to you.
An unauthorized repair would put the unit out of warranty, regardless of its status, so an Apple Store is always available for service at a cost.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6403",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Is there a standard delay for consumer ratings of apps on the App Store? I have an app that's been out for a couple of weeks. Its not exactly selling like hot cakes yet, but I'm pretty sure I've gotten a rating or a review by now. But nothing shows when viewing either in iTunes or directly on the AppStore on the iPhone.
Is there a standard delay as to when ratings/reviews show up, that Apple imposes, especially for new apps? Or do you think there is some problem with Apple's system?
A: My experience is there is a fairly big delay in reviews showing up - but I would expect even the first review to get published within a month of posting should other ratings and reviews arrive for that app to separate it from an app that has less than 100 downloads ever.
I don't know for sure, but the ratings seem to be held back until 10 or 20 are submitted. Once you reach that limit the store will show the overall rating and only new versions get ratings once they hit their threshold (but a message stating not enough ratings are in to show).
It makes sense for users to expect a few points before any app gets zero or five stars and makes the ratings a useful measure that some handful of people expressed an opinion before they are shown.
After hearing about the delays, I've sometimes checked and my experience with about 50 reviews where I cared to check back, the shortest time was about 24 hours and the longest was 2 weeks for a review to appear. I've not had one not eventually get published, but I also don't generally review apps that have hundreds of reviews which is much harder to find your needle in the haystack of other reviews. I generally star those apps or write something and not bother to check if it ever made it live.
A: From a users standpoint, you only see reviews from the app store/country you are logged into. I have accounts on the China, US and NZ app stores, and notice significantly more reviews on the American and Chinese sites than the NZ one (unsurprisingly I might add). Perhaps you are logged in to an app store with less users/less likely to have reviews?
Maybe you can link us to you app so we can have a look at it. Good luck.
A: All these answers seem well enough, but I've made shining, 5 star reviews in the past (in America, with games I've bought and am logged into) that have yet to appear. In the meantime, the illiterate smeghead who's dropped F-bombs every other word... he has 19 reviews showing, all made in the last 2 weeks.
I am more willing to believe that they're just waiting for a grouping of reviews, rather than reviewing reviews for viewable content.
It all seems disorganized to me. I don't think the employess hired to improve this process have any real idea what they're doing.
A: I know that they wait for a set number of ratings before displaying, and I imagine that reviews are subject to moderation.
These things might be especially true for new apps/developers.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6405",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do I read .CHM files in OS X? What software do I need to open and read a .chm document in OS X?
A: One of the best apps I've found is iChm. It has a Spotlight importer as well as the app itself.* It's free as well as being open source.
Only issue I've had with it is that sometimes long "m dashes", like —, will not be present, and instead the two words will be run together. (Though, I've looked at the source code myself, and it appears to actually be a problem with libchm, the open source library that iChm relies on).
*NOTE: the version of iChm in the link above (1.4.2) does not have a Spotlight importer, but I've forked this project on GitHub and added a Spotlight importer in version 1.5. You can download 1.5 at http://www.markdouma.com/developer/iChm.zip.
The GitHub project is at https://github.com/NSGod/ichm (it may be a day or so before I've pushed all of the changes).
A: A little bit googled and find this.
http://chmox.sourceforge.net/
Hope it helps...
A: There are multiple viewers available. This article lists five.
I've never used any of these myself, but many are free or shareware. Give them a try.
A: While installing iChm on El Capitan, it was showing me a security warning. So, instead of changing my security settings, I gave CHM Reader from App Store a try. Works well for me.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6407",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "19"
} |
Q: View Image Full Screen On occasion I need to look at an image at fullscreen so it doesn't have anything else around it to distract me. Is there a way to do that? I can't seem to find a way to do it with preview.
A: You can use View -> Slideshow to do this in Preview
A: Additionally you can use QuickLook (spacebar) and click the FullScreen button :)
A: ⌥␣ in Finder opens QuickLook directly in full screen. There's also Sequential, a small app basically meant for viewing folders of images in full screen.
A: *
*Go to a folder with pictures
*Press Command + A to select all pictures
*Press Option + Space bar to view all images in full
screen
*Press Arrow keys to view next/previous picture
Note: Do NOT press Command + Backspace because It deletes all selected pictures!
Tested on macOS Big Sur 11.2
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6414",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Sharing music in the iTunes library with multiple accounts and iOS devices My wife and I both have iOS devices (some iPods, an iPhone, soon an iPad), which means that both our iTunes libraries have not only music, but also apps, podcasts, iTunes U stuff, etc.
How could we manage to share just the music in one single location, and still keep our apps/podcasts/etc separated from each other?
A: Would iTunes Home Sharing work for you?
Basically, one of you would have all your music, but every device would have access to it.
A: When the iTunes Store music was DRM'ed, this was a problem. But these days, your problem boils down to sharing the raw files for the music, and adding the directory containing those files to iTunes. Probably you're interested in the functionality of iTunes so that it can automatically "discover" music that has been added to a directory. I think that exists, but I haven't used it do far, so I don't know the details.
If some of your music is older and has access restrictions on it, then you have a bigger issue to work around. You can try to remove the protection. But otherwise, I don't a way to share protected music files and sync them together.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6417",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How does the quality of the LED-backlit screen of a MacBook or a 27" Cinema Display degrade over time? The quality of my PowerBook and 20" Cinema Display screens has degraded over time, they became noticeably yellowish and darker due to the wear of the backlight (I assume). Neither of those screens is LED-backlit. I'm wondering, how do the LED-backlit screens used in current Apple products degrade over time? Do they similarly become yellowish, give less light, ...? How long does it take for the effect to become obvious, or what's the expected life time of these screens?
A: This Engadget article shows photos of a direct comparison:
Standing in front of the white-LED backlight on the new MBP, it's immediately apparent how crisp the whites are -- it's very noticeable after staring into CCFL LCDs all day long. But even though the whites were whiter, the screen didn't necessarily seem a lot brighter, which is probably where some amount of CCFL dimming on our test MBP came into play in creating the dramatic difference we saw. Viewing angles were very similar on both machines, but as you'll notice, at half brightness it's the LED backlit MBP that's dimmer, and the CCFL display that's actually brighter. Interesting stuff.
Also interesting could be the Advantages and Disadvantages sections of the Wikipedia article on LEDs (link):
*
*Slow failure: LEDs mostly fail by dimming over time, rather than the abrupt failure of incandescent bulbs.
*Lifetime: LEDs can have a relatively long useful life. One report estimates 35,000 to 50,000 hours of useful life, though time to complete failure may be longer. Fluorescent tubes typically are rated at about 10,000 to 15,000 hours, depending partly on the conditions of use, and incandescent light bulbs at 1,000–2,000 hours.
A: I've had my 2007 MBP17 backlights replaced a couple times.
With that model, you could place downward pressure on the closed device. That apparently causes blobby regions of the backlight to appear overtly grayer. I carried my MBP17 in a padded backpack with stuff in it that compressed the unit while carrying. Whoops.
Another failure mode I saw was the backlighting dimmed in largely vertical areas; text over at the top-left of the panel and below over time became harder to read. The effect is considerably less obvious than the first problem.
(Normally, the screen center looks brightest and the edges look a little dimmer, but I can see the left side of the screen as brightly as the center by moving my head to the left. When it doesn't seem a little brighter by doing that, you may have a backlight issue.)
There may be other failure modes, these are the ones I've seen. For me, the degradation is slow and involved areas of the backlight becoming less bright.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6420",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Disabling default keyboard on iPad with iOS 4.2 I have enabled 3 languages and use their keyboards, but the default keyboard still insists on popping up. Bought in Bangkok, using in Europe.Can I disable this unnecessary keyboard or am I stuck with it??
A: *
*Go into Settings -> General -> Keyboard
*Tap Edit
*Tap and hold the "handle" (it looks like three horizontal bars) on English and drag it to the bottom
Or you can disable it outright.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6421",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Mac Pro 2007/2008 fresh Snow Leopard install with GT120 graphics card? I have a Mac Pro from late 2007, early 2008 and I want to perform a clean install but nothing comes up on my monitor. The graphics card is an NVIDIA GT 120 and the hard drive is an Intel SSD. I am assuming the graphics card is the problem but all comments point to it being supported.
How do I do a clean Snow Leopard install with the given hardware?
A: The Apple NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 Graphics card is not compatible with the 2007/2008 Mac Pro, so in order to do the fresh install you will want to remove the GT 120 and re-install a compatible graphics card that will work with the 2007 / 2008 generation of Mac Pro.
As noted on Amazon the following system requirements are noted for the Apple NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 Graphics card.
Product Features
*
*Requires Mac Pro (Early 2009 with 1066MHz DDR3 memory) with PCI Express 2.0 slot
*Requires Mac OS X v10.5.6 or later
A: You have to keep the stock video card in the first slot, and the new one in the second slot, then OS X should boot because it senses the EFI patched video card and allows you to see it.
A: If you have reset the NVRAM to clear the device tree and let the mac have the best chance to run the installer, you still have some options to resolve this.
*
*A newer retail OS X DVD should
have the original and updated
drivers to drive that monitor
(making a failure more likely
hardware and less of a driver
question) than the DVD that originally shipped with that model.
*Taking the drive (or the whole Mac) to a shop that has all the boot images and several retail OS DVD on hand might be needed.
DeployStudio running on another mac has saved my day more times than I can count. Their boot loader is quite up to date - the closest to a universal image as I have seen. If that fails, you may have to resort to installing an OS to the drive connected to another mac in target mode or by a dongle for SATA drives.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6423",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: ASP & PHP Web Server on OS X On Windows, I ran Xampp on port 80 for PHP/MySQL and IIS on port 8080 for ASP.
For OS X, what's the best route to take...
*
*Should I just run Xampp for Mac for PHP/mySQL, or is there a better option since this is Unix?
*What's the best (free) way to run ASP off a mac?
A: I've never used it any of them, but there is a port of Mono for Mac that allows you to run ASP.NET on the Mac, and as other users answered there is XAMPP for Mac also.
http://www.mono-project.com/Mono:OSX
A: Mono works relatively well, but some sites built using ASP require Windows-only components (like Windows Forms) that it can't support. I was able to build it but it took some time and hand editing of various dependencies and make files.
As for PHP/MySQL, you do have them already in Mac OS X. You may need to do a bit of leg work to get them working together as you'd like. MAMP and EMAMP are ok, but I almost always run into gotchas when I use them. They're no replacement for a good, stock Apache build with some mods backed up to a text file on Dropbox...
A: good news: Abyss will run asp, asp.net, php, and even ruby.
bad news: it's not designed for professionals; only for nooooobs.
A: i can answer part of this question - MAMP is made for mac. it stands for Mac, Apache, MySQL, PHP and is free. mamp.info for details. asp... no idea
A: For the first part of your question you can use XAMPP on mac OS X too.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6425",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I find which account I used for downloading my iOS apps? I use three different accounts for downloading from the App Store, each in a different country.
When there is an update, I have to connect to the correct App Store to download the update, but sometimes I can't remeber from which store an app was downloaded and so I need to connect to each one in turns.
I would like to be able to find the account I used to download an app so that I can connect to the correct App Store immediately. Also, this would enable me to verify if the app already exists in the App Store of my main account and buy/download it from there.
A: In iTunes you can simply right click the app in question and choose Get Info. On the summary tab you can see the account used to purchase the app.
A: I would log in to each account and check your purchase history. That seems like the most direct way to me. This Apple article has details on how to do this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6429",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iPhone apps think they are under old iTunes username after it has changed Ever since apple has decided to make iTunes account access your email address instead of a username I have noticed the apps that were bought under the old username do not recognize this and there doesn't seem to be a simple way to fix this. For example when an app has an update it asks me to enter my old username/pw combo, however if I make a new purchase and then it has an update the new email/pw info is displayed. This more of an inconvenience than anything, but the other day I was trying to make and in-app purchase and the new email/pw dialog displayed for an app I purchased with the username/pw and the transaction would not go through saying I needed to purchase the app first. Is there an easy way to fix this?
A: Have you tried removing the app from iTunes and and the iOS device and then downloading them again? iTunes should see that you had already bought it and just downloads it.
This way I changed some apps when I got the iOS device from my girlfriend, which were bought with her account.
A: Was your old username linked to your current email address?
Supposing the two aren't linked, there isn't an easy way around this, although you might try contacting Apple support to see if they can transfer those purchases to your account. I've had luck doing this before when an album I purchased was link to the wrong account.
Good luck.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6432",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.