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Q: How to create custom text format style and apply to hotkey in Pages? There are paragraph styles that you can create and tie to the function keys.
This is all great and dandy, but not if I wish to switch style in the middle of a paragraph and then revert to the one I used to begin with. The whole paragraph will change to the one I just selected.
Is there a way to do what I want, or do I have to manually apply the same font, size and colour every time?
A: I just noticed that there's a thing called "Character Styles" as well that allows me to do exactly what I want!
I created a new style based on a selection and tied it to the function key that I wish to use.
Perfect.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5789",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Link formatting in Automator's New Mail Message I would like to send an email with automator and have a link that shows a couple words (for e.g. name of the site) instead of the whole URL like you can do with the add link inside of Mac OS. I have tried just writing the link as HTML as shown below but that didn't work. Is this possible?
<a href="http://foo.com">foo</a>
A: This is not possible.
Mail's AppleScript API also does not allow for proper RTF mail. The following fails to create a proper mail body with links and everything, something clearly there in /Developer/Applications/Utilities/Clipboard Viewer (part of Xcode 4):
tell application "Mail"
set theRTF to the clipboard rule «class rtf »
set msg to make new outgoing message with properties {subject:"Test", content:theRTF}
make new recipient at end of to recipients of msg with properties {address:"danielbeck@example.org"}
send msg
end tell
You can try to use GUI scripting to copy&paste rich text using the clip board and the actual Copy/Paste menu items.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5792",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Download size/time of iTunes Movies and Rentals + Apple TV use What is the range of file sizes that are downloaded when purchasing or renting a movie via iTunes? This would be useful in estimating the time to download.
Apple's help is very vague just saying that "The download time depends on the speed of your Internet connection." without providing any references to file size or anything to help work out a time.
Do rentals buffer and allow immediate playback - or is the complete file required?
With the new Apple TV not having local storage - how does it deal with movie purchases or rentals? Does it require a computer with home sharing enabled to download it to?
A: A single movie will usually be between 1-2G. The amount it will want to buffer will depend on the speed of the buffering.
Having a reliable sustained download speed of about 300K/s then it should buffer and start playing within a few seconds.
A: The Apple TV has 8 GB internal memory for buffering (You can't access this and you can't put your own files in that memory). Rentals (just like Netflix) only need to buffer a very small part, so they play almost immediately and stream after that.
I don't know how much of the movie it keeps, but even if you fast-forward it always only downloads a minimal part of the movie.
I don't think you can purchase movies on Apple TV, only rent them, but I may be wrong. I don't know how purchases work, but for rented movies it simply downloads whatever it needs to start playing back from Apple if it's not in the buffer.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5793",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Using time capsule as a shared iTunes library Is it possible to use a time capsule as a shared iTunes library?
To be clear, by shared library I mean a library that all the computers running iTunes in the network would recognise as a shared library and not merely a shared location to be configured in iTunes.
A: No, the Time Capsule doesn't have the software to run an iTunes library.
It can be used as external storage as you mentioned configuring it as a shared location. In this case iTunes would be running on another computer rather than on the Time Capsule.
A: I have actually tried this and there are two ways the first is the shared location works well most of the time. However, lose a connection while you are connected and you will lose configuration with teh destination folder.
Best work arround is to have an external HDD or the TC with all your music connected to one computer and then make your library shared so that the other computer can access the music over the network.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5804",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Hierarchical Smart playlists vs Smart playlists What does the "..." button in the iTunes "Edit Smart Playlist" dialog do? And how is specifying a condition using that any different than a condition specified otherwise (by clicking the "+" button).
The only link I could find on that is iPod nano: Hierarchical Smart Playlists do not update on device and that doesn't clarify anything.
A: The "..." allows to nest criteria for smart playlists.
Say you would like a smart playlist that contains all tracks from Bob Dylan or the Beatles with a score of 3 stars or better.
Without hierarchical rules you only have the options of getting the tracks that match all or any of your rules.
With hiearchical rules you can have the condition all on one level and any on another level.
It seems that nested rules exist since iTunes 9; see also a screenshot.
Here is my example:
Match all rules
*
*Rating is greater than 3 stars
*any of the following
*
*Artist contains Bob Dylan
*Artist contains Beatles
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5805",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Long USB cable for iPad kiosk? Does Apple or anyone else sell iDevice cables that are several feet or several yards long? I'm making an iPad Kiosk and need to keep it powered.
I'd be even happier if someone could point me to a "smart" charger which knows when to stop charging and when to start again.
A: Yes.
Griffin makes a 10 ft USB dock cable and it is available in the Apple Store
A: The smarts for the charging is in the device, not the charger. At least for iPads and virtually all USB-charging devices.
A: You can also add the power cord extension cable onto the iPad's power brick. That will also add 6ft of length to make your Griffin+power brick extension length 16ft.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5807",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Alternative to iTunes? Over the past decade I've come to acquire a random selection of large hard disks from my older computers. While most of the stuff on it isn't vital, there are fair bits of music I made over the years just sitting on them.
I'd like to have all these files stored in some kind of library kinda like the way iTunes does it... HOWEVER.
A lot of it is either crap, or the disk may even contain large groupings of game audio files etc.
I don't want to bog my actual iTunes library down with this nonsense. So can anyone recommend me an alternative that will essentially scan these old disks and add any content to its library.
A: You should try Songbird. It's an open source media player with Firefox-like extensions. It supports lots of file formats, unlike iTunes.
A: In addition to Songbird that lpacheco suggested (and also I think it's best Alternative) you have some other choices:
*
*Instinctiv
*EverPlay
*PicoPlay
*Banshee
*VoxApp
A: You could create alternative iTunes libraries.
Just hold the Option key while starting iTunes and point it to a new directory. To go back to your main library quit iTunes and start it again while holding the Option key.
If you are on Windows, the Alt key should have the same function, I don't remember which one.
A: One option would be to create playlists for all of these files you don’t really like and then have a smart playlist which displays all music not in those playlists. Then, all you have to do is avoid the main library view of iTunes and only use that smart playlist as your stating point whenever your browsing for songs to play.
It’s not an optimal solution, however, because every now and then iTunes will show you the main media library again and you’ll have to manually select the smart playlist view again. (And because you get a useless number before each entry.)
I’d be great, if iTunes had an option to create a second (or even more) ‘Music’ view in the library for all the stuff that is secondary.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5808",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: How can I cancel an app installation on the iPhone? I started downloading an app then realized that it's really big (over 600 MB) and that I don't want it anymore. Is there any way to cancel the installation?
A: I just figured out one way to do this:
*
*Pause the download on the iPhone by tapping the icon.
*Connect the iPhone to iTunes. This will cause iTunes to start downloading the app.
*Go to the Downloads tab in iTunes and delete the download.
A: *
*Pause the download by tapping the icon
*Turn the phone completely off (with red slider) thus disconnecting the phone from the app store
*Turn the phone back on, when prompted to sign into the app store click cancel so that the download does not resume
*Press and hold an icon to enter "shakey" mode
*You should now be able to delete the icon/download by tapping it. I was prompted that I would still be able to down load from the app store
A: I found that turning off the iPhone,waiting 10 seconds,then turning it back on,and then deleting the app(holding it down till it shakes and then tapping the x) worked best. So that's what I recommend. But I also like trying different things to fiind the one that works for you!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5818",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Should I use time machine to migrate from one mac to another? I have had my blackbook for a little over 4 years now and think it's time to upgrade to a new macbook pro. I'm currently running leopard on the blackbook with time machine. I'm wondering if time machine is the right way to move my data from my old mac to the new one.
My main concern is that if I do a full restore, I will lose the new software on my new mac (e.g. - Aperture). I basically want to migrate all of my music (from itunes), a bunch of files/projects, photos (I don't use iPhoto), etc. I probably don't care as much about applications.
What's the most painless way of doing this?
NOTE: I would like to be able to use my time machine harddrive with the new computer for the same purpose.
(Extra credit if anyone can comment on migrating Eclipse workspaces. I'm pretty sure just moving all the directories over will work fine if I just reinstall Eclipse on the new machine.)
Thanks in advance.
A: The best way to do this is with Apple's Migration Assistant. Plug the Macs into each other with an ethernet cable and launch Migration Assistant on both. Follow the instructions on screen.
I've migrated to new machines seven times and it's a pretty flawless system. Based on other answers I'm pretty sure that Eclipse won't really know the difference after migration as long as your short name on both Macs is the same.
A: I wouldn't recommend a full restore, assuming it's even possible (Apple can sometimes be a bit funky about system releases on new machines). What you should do is a home directory migration, which I believe you can do from your time machine backup with Migration Assistant when you set up the new machine.
What you want to be careful to do to be as seamless as possible is make sure your new user account has the same shortname as your existing one. That should clear up any snafus you might have with migrating Eclipse as well (I think I saw a related issue for Eclipse on Super User that suggested this.)
A: For eclipse workspace, migrating the workspace folder will be OK (if you have all your source files inside the folder). At first launch, Eclipse will ask you to set the workspace folder. You'll give this folder and your projects will be there. If you have the source files elsewhere, you will have to copy them and keep the same folders structure for Eclipse to find the files.
For the Time Machine Disk. You will be able to use the same one. Another folder will be created to store the backup of your new laptop as there is noe different folder per physical machine. So no worry on this side.
For the rest of your files, it will be on a case by case as you just want to migrate a part of it. As said already, you can migrate your home directory with the Migration Assistant (in Applications/Utilities). As for the main part of Apple applications, if the files are managed in the library, an export/import of the library will be fine. If not, you'll have to do the file copy by yourself.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5820",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Can I use a non-Apple keyboard with OS X? Recently I've been thinking about the idea of migrating from PC to Mac, specifically Mac Mini. The biggest issue however is hardware, since I'm not sure what will and what won't work on OS X.
First issue that comes to my mind is keyboard, currently I'm using Logitech G15. If I connect it to a Mac, how well will this work with OS X specific keys like Option, Cmd, etc? Does it work out of the box with all keyboards, or should I rather buy the Apple keyboard?
A: If the keyboard is USB, it should be fine. That USB thing is important though - there are no PS2 ports on a Mac. I was able to use my cymotion keyboard with no hassle, but as Kyle pointed out, I needed to remap one or two keys.
A: I use a PC keyboard with my MacBook Pro and I just recently ran into a problem.
I'd like a quick keyboard shortcut to sleep the computer without a popup.
There is a shortcut that uses the "eject" button, but my keyboard
has no "eject" button. There doesn't seem to be any way to redefine the shortcut,
or any way to emulate the "eject" button.
So that's a data point for you.
A: I'm using a Microsoft keyboard with my new Macbook pro and its fine. Recommend the Microsoft Natural Ergonomic keyboard 4000 v1 to anyone. It will save your wrists.
A: Macs work just fine with non-Apple keyboards. Alt becomes option, and the Windows key becomes the command key. And if you want to rearrange them, you can easily do so in the System Preferences:
However, I prefer to use Apple keyboards with my Mac as they have buttons on the top to control expose, volume, and pause/rewind/fastforward of media playback. Apple keyboards also have the command key better positioned for keyboard shortcuts than the Windows key is on regular keyboards.
A: Just in case Keyboard pref setting doesn't stick, try to combine it with KeyRemap4MacBook
Some explanation by myself over there.
Btw, don't be surprised if vendor's drivers act weird or even cause kernel panics - last time I checked, three months ago, the Microsoft driver still wasn't fully functional on Snow Leopard. And I installed it on my Mom's mini…
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5822",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: How can I set Spotlight metadata to files? I am looking for a command line utility (I need to use it in a script) that can set Spotlight metadata to files.
A: You can always use the command line tool xattr, which lists/reads/writes/erases the filesystem's extended attributes of a file.
That's what spotlight uses to build it's index.
Note that spotlight information keys are prefixed with com.apple.metadata:
As quick example, to change the display name on spotlight of a file:
xattr -w com.apple.metadata:kMDItemDisplayName MyNewFilename.txt ActualFile.txt
to access xattr help, type on t:
xattr -h
A: I don't think there's a way to -- the Spotlight indexes are generated by metadata importers that scan files and figure out their properties. If the relevant importer doesn't detect some property, then as far as Spotlight is concerned it doesn't exist.
Now, it might be possible to change the actual file in such a way as to add properties to its index entry. This page claims you can add extended attributes starting with "com.apple.metadata:" and they'll be added to the spotlight entry for the file, but I couldn't get it to work. The SpotMeta project extends the import system to add extended attributes to the spotlight database, but only works on OS X v10.4. Not an actual solution, but that's as close as I could find...
A: Here is a Python function I use to write Finder Comments to a file using the system shell. They show up in Spotlight, but not in the Get Info box...
def writexattrs(F,TagList):
import subprocess
""" writexattrs(F,TagList):
Writes the list of tags to xattr field of file named F
"""
plistFront = '<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd"><plist version="1.0"><array>'
plistEnd = '</array></plist>'
plistTagString = ''
for Tag in TagList:
plistTagString = plistTagString + '<string>{}</string>'.format(Tag)
TagText = plistFront + plistTagString + plistEnd
WhichAttribute = "com.apple.metadata:kMDItemFinderComment"
# Other attributes you might want to try: ["kOMUserTags","kMDItemOMUserTags","_kMDItemUserTags","kMDItemkeywords"]
XattrCommand = 'xattr -w {0} \'{1}\' "{2}"'.format(WhichAttribute,TagText.encode("utf8"),F)
# optional, print command format to check:
# print XattrCommand
ProcString = subprocess.check_output(XattrCommand, stderr=subprocess.STDOUT,shell=True)
return ProcString
A: If you have installed Apple Developer Tools (usually appears under /Developer/Tools), then you have access to the SetFile and GetFileInfo commands which both assist in manipulating metadata of files.
Additionally, I found a set of command line utilities called osxutils that may prove useful with additional requirements that come up while writing your scripts.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5828",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How do I set up an Exchange Account in Mac Mail? I am having trouble transferring my account settings from Entourage to Mac Mail. Specifically, what is the equivalent setting in Mac Mail for the Domain setting in Entourage?
In Entourage I have the following account settings.
PERSONAL INFORMATION
Name: My Name
E-mail Address: me@mycompany.org
AUTHENTICATION
Account ID: myUserName
Domain: NETBSA
SERVER INFORMATION
Exchange Server: https://path.to.webmail
[x] This DAV Service requires a secure connection
I can see in Mac Mail where all the other settings match up when creating a new account, but I'm not sure what "Domain" means or where I can specify it in Mac Mail. Is it some quirky Microsoft thing that only Exchange supports?
Whenever I try to set up my account in Mac Mail the server just times out.
A: Domain shuld be the beginning part of your username when you logon to your machine or account at work. It's the name of your internal corporate network. It looks like this when you sign on to machines at work:
netbsa\myusername
You might need to specify this format as your username in mail.app. However, if it's timing out, it's probably more likely that the server settings are wrong. Don't use the https:// part in the server settings and see if it will connect.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5831",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Why is my iPhone 3GS proximity detector not working? Whenever I use the phone on my iPhone 3GS, it detects my face's proximity and dims the screen. However, once the call ends and I take the phone away from my face, the screen does not brighten again until I press the power/wake button, at which point the screen returns to normal.
Why is this happening? How can I fix it?
Some basic info: I'm running iOS 4.1, jailbroken.
A: I don't remember ever reading about a problem with proximity sensors in iPhone 3GS running iOS 4.x. The well-known problem was with iPhone 4, and it was fixed in iOS 4.2.1.
I guess you will have to restore your iPhone, either to verify that your problem was caused by some rogue app you installed via jailbreak or to take the phone to an Apple Store.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5838",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What's a good IE tester for Macs? I just moved to the Mac after years and permanently moved my PC out of my life at home. I am a graphic designer who builds web pages. I code pure XHTML pages with div layouts. But whenever you keep to web standards, you have to check out how it works on the most commonly-used browsers.
On the Mac, my default browser is Firefox (Chrome and Safari are also installed). But I cannot see the result of how my pages look in IE.
On a Mac, is there any way to test web designs on IE?
(IE for Mac is not supported by Microsoft any more, so I didn't download it. I've received several suggestions to use Boot Camp, but I don't want to install Windows.)
A: If running a virtual machine isn't interesting, I think your best bet is to get a cheap PC with a Microsoft OS.
You can run it without a monitor and connect to it using Microsoft's free "Remote Desktop Connection" software so you don't have to physically type on a different machine to test things. There are a few different versions of IE you may wish to test. Microsoft has virtual-machine-based copies of their browsers for this purpose [1]. These images can't be run in a traditional VM on your Mac due to licensing problems. They will run on the cheap PC.
*
*http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/en/details.aspx?FamilyId=21EABB90-958F-4B64-B5F1-73D0A413C8EF&displaylang=en
A: I understand you don't want to install Windows. However, thats what all Mac-users at our company do (with vmWare fusion).
A: The most common ways I know of doing this:
*
*Virtual testing:
*
*BrowserCam
Screen capture and Remote Access service for cross platform compatibility testing and HTML design quality assurance
*Adobe BrowserLab
*Browsershots
Check Browser Compatibility, Cross Platform Browser Test
*Your local library often has PCs available for patrons to use
*Ask a buddy to test it/take screenshots for you (often, in return for you doing the same for them on the Mac)
Even if you had IE/Mac installed, it wouldn't help you any in this regard. It used a different rendering engine; one that no version of IE/Win has ever used.
A: There is a Way to use the regular IE7 and IE8 for Windows via Wine. A short German tutorial is available at http://www.webmasterpro.de/coding/article/internet-explorer-auf-mac-os-x-installieren.html.
A: I've been using http://ipinfo.info/netrenderer/index.php and it works well, though obviously not as good as vmWare. If I was working with webpages just a bit more often I would probably invest in a virtual windows-machine.
A: I would suggest a virtual environment so that you can clone your virtual machine to host different versions of IE on every virtual machine (at least IE version 7 and 8 need to be tested and version 9 is about to be released).
Beside the commercial offering (VMWare Fusion and Parallels) there are also open source projects like Virtual Box that you can use to start experimenting.
You'll need a valid Microsoft Windows XP or Windows 7 license so that you can install Windows on the virtual machine.
Regards
Massimo
A: You don't. No IE-testing suite is completely accurate, and several will raise errors which don't appear in production (wasting your time on false positives). Virtual machines aren't as reliable as people think - I've seen several VM-specific bugs whilst trying to run IE6 (I think IE6's rendering engine relies on the coordination of certain threads, which VMs can't quite manage properly).
If IE6/7 functionality matters to your organization, I
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5841",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: How can I sort notes in the built-in notes app by date created rather than date last saved? I've found how to do this on the desktop, but haven't noticed how to achieve this on any of my iOS devices. I'd also be happy to know if this actually isn't possible.
A: Hmmm, it's not possible. The built-in Notes app is quite straightforward. You should look for another app which will allow you do to this. There are tons of Notes app (free or not) on the AppStore.
edit: As Dori said, Evernote is really good and allows you to sort like this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5842",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Import Google Voice Contacts Into iPhone What I'd like to do is have my Google Voice contacts available on my iPhone, not the other way around. I recently had to restore the phone to factory defaults and it's a pain to manually enter all them all.
When I make a new GMail e-mail account on my iPhone it won't let me import contacts from my Google account, but even if it did I don't want every single contact in my phone. Google for some reason adds every single person I've ever sent e-mails to into my contacts list, which as you can imagine is quite a large list by now.
Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this?
A: *
*Go to the Contacts tab of the GV sidebar.
*Click the Export link at the top right.
*Select which you want to export.
*Use the Outlook CSV format if you've got a PC and the vCard format if you've got a Mac.
*Import it to Outlook or Address book (depending on your system) and set iTunes to sync contacts to the iPhone from that program.
A: You can trim the contacts you have and setup google sync via exchange and it should only sync your contacts from "My Contacts"
Edit your contacts here:
http://www.google.com/contacts
how to set up your iPhone with google sync:
http://www.google.com/support/mobile/bin/answer.py?answer=138740&topic=14252
A: Set up your iPhone with the Exchange Servers that Google has. I have mine set up for just Calendar and Contacts sync. For instructions, take a look over here. Also, take a look over at the Google Voice iPhone app - it's fairly useful, and it can (and indeed has for my dad at least) replaced Messages.App and Phone.App on his iPhone.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5849",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I stop my device open being reset to iPhoto When I plug in my Camera (Toshiba Camileo H20), it always opens in iPhoto. Because I want a little more control over the import process, I would like Image Capture to be the default app for it.
When I open up Image Capture to change the 'connecting this camera opens' drop down, and select another app, as soon as my mouse has left the selection, it reverts back to iPhoto. This is regardless of which other option I select.
The computer is an iMac 2009, with OS X 10.6.5 (Snow Leopard), and Image Capture v6.0.1 (428). The Camera is connected via USB, and appears in Image Capture as 2 Mass storage devices (internal + the card). The card device (2nd) is exhibiting this problem, the first device does have Image Capture set as its default when connected.
Other notes - each device now has a different name (Not just NO NAME for both).
How can I stop Image Capture reverting my choice for behaviour when the camera is connected?
A: Image Capture and iPhoto have cache locations to store the status of pictures and camera roll information for each device. It's likely those preferences and databases are corrupt.
If you have a recent backup, you might try quitting the apps and cleaning some of these by moving them to the trash:
~/Library/Preferences/ByHost/com.apple.Image_Capture*
~/Library/Caches/com.apple.iPhoto/Cache.db
Without emptying the trash you can reboot and test to see that it fixes the issue and doesn't cause other issues before emptying the trash. You can quit the apps and move things back if it causes you issues - but these should be regenerated from a normally working system (and yours is either slightly confused or potentially not working so well)
A: Hmm, this is quite odd behaviour. I would try clicking 'Other' in that drop down menu, and then clicking 'Image Capture' from the Applications folder windows that drops down. This may make it work. Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5853",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What MIDI hardware do iOS 4.2 compatible devices support? (Apologies ahead of time if this question belongs in the audio production stack exchange. Since this question directly involves iOS, it seemed more appropriate here.)
A while back I ran across a webpage which claimed to have a maintained list of which midi devices were tested on iOS devices for compatibility. Does anyone know where I could find this list or one like it?
(For those interested, it was discovered during the betas for 4.2 that, by using the camera connection kit, one could connect certain midi devices to the iPad and transfer midi data back and forth.)
Thank you,
-b
A: I just came upon the site I was looking for in relation to this question. I'm posting it in case others inquire.
http://iosmidi.com/
-b
A: Every USB device that is compliant to the USB Midi class specification which does not draw significant power from the USB port works as a midi device using the camera connection kit.
Most devices that do draw from USB power can be run using a powered hub connected to the camera connection kit when the powered hub is plugged into an electrical outlet.
Some USB midi devices do not completely follow the USB Midi class, and they may not work, or will only work erratically, but this is rare.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to make terminals open side-by-side? I use terminals a lot, and I frequently open and close them. The problem is that whenever I open a new terminal using ⌘+n it overlaps the current one, and I have to move it out of the way first. Is there a way to make them open side by side from top left to bottom right?
A: This behavior won't happen in OS X by default, but a whole bunch of 3rd party window-arranging apps ought to be able to help:
*
*SizeUp http://irradiatedsoftware.com/sizeup/
*Divvy http://mizage.com/divvy/
*Breeze http://www.autumnapps.com/breeze/
*ShiftIt http://code.google.com/p/shiftit/
*Mercury Mover http://www.heliumfoot.com/mercurymover/details
*Optimal Layout http://most-advantageous.com/optimal-layout/
*Cinch http://irradiatedsoftware.com/cinch/
A: You could also check out iTerm 2. One of the nice features it has is the ability to split panes, each one of which shows a different session. You can slice vertically and horizontally and create any number of panes in any imaginable arrangement. It also offers a number of other improvements over Terminal.app.
A: Try using the tabs feature. When you're in a Terminal window, press Cmd+T and a new tab will open up alongside your current one, just like in Safari. You can even rename the tabs by double clicking the tab header, and assigning a title. Hope this helps.
A: There is not going to be a way to accomplish this out-of-the-box, you will have to have some sort of third party window management utility. There very well may be one that works automatically, but I haven't quite found one yet :).
My two recommendations (in this order only because I've used Divvy, not SizeUp) are:
*
*Divvy - $14, Divvy is a very sleek little utility. On it's face, the use case is to have the application window open and active that you wish to resize, then call up Divvy either by clicking it's icon in the menu bar, or hitting a defined activation shortcut, which calls up a 6x6 grid on all active screens (multi-monitor aware!) which you can drag a cutout on to move+resize your application window.
Your use case would likely involve creating a global shortcut to define a 1/2 left and a 1/2 right cutout on the primary screen. You can then click the terminal you want, press this series of shortcut keys, et voíla, 1/2 width slots for your terminal windows.
*
*SizeUp - $7, SizeUp will likely be quicker to start for you if all you ever want is the 1/2 left 1/2 right capability. It already has predefined shortcuts for halfs, corners, and moving windows around Screens and Spaces, but that is (to the best of my knowledge) where the functionality ends.
Check them out, decide what you want, maybe do a little more research to see if something else exists.
I seem to recall seeing a question on this site regarding the Windows 7 feature of Window snapping. Drag a window to the top of the screen to maximize it, left to 1/2 left it, right to 1/2 right it, but again my term selection seems to be... inefficient. That and window shopping for price is always in your best interest.
A: Apart from the tools already mentioned above, there is BetterTouchTool, a very nice utility that allows custom finger tap gestures on a Magic Mouse or any multitouch trackpad. I have configured it to make windows snap to the left or right half of the screen by simply using a two-finger hold-and-tap gesture. Not as nice as a tiling window manager, but quick and easy nonetheless.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: Fast or automatic way to organize iphone/ipod apps Is there a tool or application that can help me quickly organize my iphone applications? The standard way of dragging and dropping 1 application at a time in folder is too frustrating for me. I gave up after 1 hour of trying... I found it to be such a waste of time ...
I am looking for an application to automatically organize my apps in the standard folder categories at least (Productivity, Navigation, Photography, etc). I was not able to find one in the iTunes store.
Any suggestions?
A: Connect your phone to iTunes, go to your phone in the sidebar, and select the Apps tab. There you should find some slightly less tedious app management where you can rearrange icons and/or screens. Perform a sync when you're finished reorganizing.
There's also a Jailbreak app called MultiIconMover, but the Jailbreak apps for messing with icons is a whole other kettle of fish...
A: You don't have to do it one icon at a time: just hold SHIFT to multi-select icons on a single page!
(You can multi-select folders along with the icons, too).
Then you can drag them all at once to a new page, or inside an existing folder (or out of a folder).
Much faster than one at a time!!
A: Have you been doing the organisation on the device, or in iTunes? I find iTunes a lot easier for this.
A: Take look at this video. You create category and then go select apps you want in that category from list as oppose to dragging them. I find it a lot more faster and easier to do:
InstallerApps
A: There is a jailbreak tweak called mutliIconMover which will let you move multiple icons at once. I find it indispensable for quickly re-arranging my icons.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5860",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Is there any way to upload screenshots directly to FTP or image hosting and give me the url? Is there any application for screenshots that could upload directly to FTP or any image hosting site and just give me the URL?
I come from the Windows world, where I got used to FastStone Capture, where you basically press print screen, click on FTP and it copies the URL into clipaboard so you can immediately paste it for example on IM.
A: If you use Dropbox (and you should), I recommend GrabBox. When you take a regular screenshot (command-shift-3, command-shift-4, etc.) it automatically uploads it to your public folder, grabs the public URL, optionally shortens it, and copies it to the clipboard.
A: i think tinygrab (http://tinygrab.com/features.php) can do it
you can also roll your own if you want.
Here is a link to the code below for working with imgur:
#!/bin/sh
# version 0.3
# 2010-02-12
# description: bash alternative to grabup using imgur.com
# todo: add error code checking/reporting
# report upload speed & time via growl
# copy to clipboard on 'click on notification'
apikey="7d9157e3bb2823aadb62a40e30e10dcc"
growlecho (){ echo $@ | /usr/local/bin/growlnotify -t QuickGrab -a /Applications/Utilities/Grab.app; }
# work in temporary directory
tempdir=`mktemp -dt quickgrab`
cd $tempdir
# start screencapture in interactive mode unless...
if [[ "$1" == "-m" ]]
then
screencapture -m tmpfile.png
else
screencapture -i tmpfile.png
fi
# check if tmpfile.png exists before continuing
if [ -f tmpfile.png ]
then
# upload via imgur.com api & output to response.log
curl -F "image=@tmpfile.png" -F "key=$apikey" http://imgur.com/api/upload.xml > response.log
LOGFILE=./response.log
# if no errors (return 1), copy url
A1=`xpath $LOGFILE "/rsp/@stat='ok'"`
if [[ "$A1" == "1" ]]
then
# copy url to clipboard & growl success
echo `xpath $LOGFILE "//original_image/text()"` | pbcopy
growlecho `xpath $LOGFILE "//original_image/text()"`
else
# growl failure
growlecho "$A1"
fi
fi
# delete temporary directory
rm -r $tempdir
A: Two of the best apps for this are CloudApp and Skitch.
Cloud app has an option to automatically upload screenshots (image courtesy of Softpedia). It is very drag and drop friendly and pastes the URL to your clipboard for convenience.
Skitch is a little more heavy on the screen snapping controls. It's like grab on steroids. You can quickly hide private information, point out items, and edit the snap before uploading.
The free version of both are well worth it. Both have paid upgrades that are low cost, but you don't need to pay to use either. I have also heard really good things about Droplr so you might check it out as well.
Both CloudApp and Skitch are available on the App Store. The two are better together - skitch is better for grabbing a great screen shot, and droplr for upload and sharing it.
A: Dropshare is another paid option that has come along - in the vein of TinyGrab and LittleSnaper (which Realmac has replaced with Ember) mentioned already.
Both the OS X and iOS version can:
*
*Upload to S3, Rackspace or your own server (via SCP over SSH)
*Global hotkeys for uploading clipboard, screenshot/recording or note (MarkDown supported)
*Create optional, custom landing pages for your files
*Sync connections/preferences via Dropshare's own sync service
*Shorten URLs using services or custom shorteners
*Delete previously shared files directly via the app
Three-day trial of the OS X version's available at their site.
I've been pleased using it for the past few months.
A: I wrote a small python script to do that.
It will not just auto upload screenshots to imgur but also copy screenshot url to clipboard and open up browser with link instantly.
Check it out:
Video Demo:
Link
A: LittleSnapper is designed to work with FTP and copy the URL after upload. Upload is a separate step from snapping, so you will have to set a key command or automate that for the exact functionality you ask.
There is a free trial version from the RealMac website - so you can see if it's what you want before buying a license.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5866",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Custom "mouse" gestures for Trackpad on Macbook Pro and Magic mouse Is it possible to create custom gestures for Macbook Pro Trackpad and Magic Mouse to custom actions? For example to close a window or launch some application.
A: Not so sure about the Magic Mouse, but for the trackpad there are a number of options.
jitouch looks very customisable, but costs.
BetterTouchTool works with the Magic Mouse. It gives you a PrefPane that lets you assign loads of gestures with loads of actions, including opening Apps. I'm sure it has capability to close windows as well.
Hope this helps!
A: Another useful tool is MagicPrefs, although it really shines with the trackpad.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5868",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to show hidden files and folders in Finder? I have a folder that starts with a dot . but am unable to display it in Finder.
How can I say that for folder x, Finder should also display hidden files/folders?
A: I don't think you can set this for individual folders. To set it globally, so that Finder always shows hidden files, run Terminal and enter the following two commands:
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles true
killall Finder
To switch back, do the same but substitute false for true.
This works all the way through macOS Catalina (and betas for Big Sur).
A: In the Finder, press CommandShift. to show hidden files & folders.
A: You can customize Finder through Terminal commands such that it defaults to show/hide hidden files.
To show hidden files and restart Finder:
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles YES; killall Finder /System/Library/CoreServices/Finder.app
To hide hidden files and restart Finder:
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles NO; killall Finder /System/Library/CoreServices/Finder.app
s
A: I myself use hiddenfiles widget. it's so easy to use.
Beside that you can use free 3rd-party software like Deeper or TinkerTool.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5870",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "74"
} |
Q: Can I have multiple mice & keyboards for one Mac? I would like to control two cursors with two mice in the same time, as well as have two keyboards for separate control and text input.
My goal is to have two users on one computer, so I can let my brother to play/chat anything while I do my job. If we have two monitors, then I don't need to buy a new computer.
If you know of some software that can do this, please let me know.
A: You can achieve something very close to this with a virtual PC solution. I tried it with Parallels. For simplicity I'll assume you run Mac OS X on the "real" computer and Windows in Parallels (of course you can run another OS too, I just picked one to keep the story simple).
In the Parallels settings, you can choose which USB devices should be connected to the Mac and which to Windows. If you connect your external keyboard and mouse to Windows, you get a warning that this will disable input from them on the Mac, but this is exactly what you want. Be sure to disable mouse pointer synchronization (in version 5 it's called "SmartMouse"), otherwise you won't see the Windows mouse pointer.
Now you can use the external keyboard and mouse only in Windows, and the main keyboard and mouse anywhere. This is also useful if you want to override something your brother is doing :-)
Doing this in a Mac only environment is currently not possible because it would require changes in the window manager, which is part of the OS. There is a project that does this for the X window manager, but this will not work to control every window on your Mac. TeamPlayer is software that allows you to control Windows with multiple mice, but with the exception of their own programs, you control the computer in turns: only one mouse can give real clicks, the others must wait for their turn.
A complete solution is Userful, but this runs only on Linux, because, as I said, it requires modifications at different places in the software stack and only Linux is open enough to allow this. Microsoft created a similar project: Windows MultiPoint Server, but this is targets to schools and I doubt you can get it. And of course, it only runs on Windows.
A: Actually, its not that simple.
The calls software makes into the operating system assumes up to one keyboard and up to one mouse. Anything more would require the software know how to tell the difference between them.
I have heard of 'virtual' solutions for Windows that allow a PC to have its resources divided up to two sets of keyboard, mouse and monitor. I am unaware of such a solution for the Mac however.
If such software existed, I would still be wary of using it. The performance burden of two users at once may be worse than you would tolerate, especially if one is play a game and/or playing music as is implied in the question. In addition its cost, whether it be in the time to setup and maintain this two-headed machine or the funds to acquire software capable of this task, may be more than simply buying another computer.
A: macOS has screen sharing and can make two user accounts in system preferences. One for each of you.
Attach the second keyboard, mouse, display to an iPhone or iPad or raspberry pi or other low cost computer you own and when the second account connects, you will be asked if you want to share the same screen with your brother or start a second distinct virtual-only session.
I believe 10.7 OS X Lion was the first OS to support this.
Enjoy!
A: In a nutshell, this is not possible. User interaction with the Mac OS is assumed to be single user. Two input devices will function simultaneously, but you cannot render two cursors or have them function in parallel. The only way to have two users on one Mac is to provide accounts via netboot, which still requires separate hardware.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5874",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Preparing my MacBook Pro in case it is ever stolen How might I best prepare my MacBook Pro in case it is ever stolen?
I hardened my security by flipping on FileVault (home directory encryption) and enabling the password prompt after waking from sleep or screensaver. My account has a secure password.
But then if a thief steals my laptop, they'll be completely locked out. So then they will be forced to reformat, and any potential security measures I have will be thrown out the window. Should I then create another user account or something, to allow them a way into my laptop without compromising my home directory and let something like Prey run in the background?
Can I enable some sort of guest account for this purpose, is it a good idea, and what is the security implications of doing so? And then what else should I do to protect my laptop and allow me to potentially recover it? What are my options besides Prey for sneaky background things? How do I prevent the thief from reformatting my laptop and bypassing everything entirely? (is there a BIOS-level theft prevention program?)
How can I best ensure that I can recover my MacBook Pro if it is stolen or lost, while also keeping my physical security of passwords and such to prevent anyone from walking up and using my computer when I'm not looking?
(2010 MacBook Pro, OS X 10.6.5)
A: You want to set an Open Firmware Password. This makes it so that a thief needs a password to boot to another disk (or do anything other than a normal boot). This means that they can't reset your password from the OS disc and get in anyway. This is an important security measure to take. The only problem is that you can't do things like safe boots and verbose mode. Here is an article about how to set up the OF password (and how to reset a user password).
And here is a general article about physical and virtual options to increase security (ways to help locate a stolen Mac, make thieves think it's broken, or even just lock it to your desk).
A: Considering the other answers, and the possibility of not getting a laptop back, perhaps you need to consider using time machine for a backup, and put the target NAS somewhere not close to the laptop - like in a discrete cupboard with good wi-fi coverage, or a wired ethernet port. You should do this anyway - for the dozen other reasons that the data on one hard drive may become irretrievable.
That way, you can have reasonable drive encryption, as even with the OF password, it does not prevent them removing the drive and using it in another machine to retrieve interesting contents. Your bank details may be far more value to some thieves than a working MBP depending on their level of sophistication.
A: I use and like Undercover by www.orbicule.com
A: Use Find My Mac. You can find your computer on a map and even lock/wipe it remotely, and they'd have to turn off Activation Lock before wiping the computer to sell.
It's in System Preferences > iCloud.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5878",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: OS X in VM Ware or Virtual Box Is it possible to run OS X in VM Ware? I want to setup a virtualized OS X for testing instead of going to buy another mac. Can I do that technically and legally?
To be explicit I do own a mac already.
A: You can do it technically. Legally I think you can do it if a) The VM is on Mac hardware and b) you purchase a unique disk (license) for the OS in the VM.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can the Lagom.nl "Inversion / Pixel Walk" screen test truly indicate a problem on a 13" MacBook Air? My 13" MacBook Air (late-2010 model) shows strong flicker on some of the following "Inversion / Pixel Walk" test images from the LCD test on the site "lagom.nl". Does that truly indicate a quality problem with the screen (as the test says), or is it a normal side effect from the screen technology that any 13" MacBook Air would suffer from?
I do notice that when scrolling say a web page or Pages document, the image noticeably flickers while scrolling. This might be due to the problem this test is supposed to detect, but I'm not sure. Web pages with a striped background where the stripes are just 1 pixel high also show annoying flicker (even when not scrolling).
The test images: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/inversion.php#inversion-all.png
At full screen brightness on my 13" Air, I can see strong flickering on test image 3. Some of the other images show some slight flickering too, but 3 is particularly strong. By "strong" I mean that the flicker is clearly visible even from over 1.5 meters away from the screen (and yes I measured that).
I had a chance to test it out on two store models of the 13" MacBook Air and couldn't see any strong flicker, but I did forget to turn up the screen brightness so I'm not sure. Neither my 20" Cinema Display nor some MacBook (Pro) and PowerBook screens I tested showed any strong flicker. But note that the Air's screen has a higher pixel density, could that affect this test?
And if it's a quality problem, is it something I should / can demand Apple to fix or replace? (I still have a few days of return period left; it might just be a minor nuisance, but do I have to put up with that considering the price of the machine? ...)
A: Every Mac I've ever owned does this same thing. Don't demand a replacement.
As an aside, monitor flicker is sometimes noticeable because the 60Hz refresh rate is the same frequency as house electrical current. This causes your lights to blink at that rate. This is usually imperceptible, but can be noticeable with a monitor if they get synced up. This is more common with CRTs, but not unheard of with an LCD.
Don't worry yourself over this. Did you notice problems with your display before the test?
A: The flicker is caused by the technology (TN) used in your MBA. It's noticeable when brightness is high and under some of the tests. I have 13" MBP 2010 and I can register flicker on 2a and 4a tests when brightness is above 50%.
Usually under normal use this shouldn't be noticeable.
A: As noted by others, the amount of pixel walk varies from screen to screen, even in the same model. My experience is that this has nothing to do with it being a TN panel as IPS screens get pixel walk, too.
If it is noticeable on solid colors, I would consider it defective. Especially if you have one display that is noticeably (i.e. your non-technical uncle or other disinterested party would agree that one of the several identical models was "off" upon a casual demonstration of normal use. Basically, a one minute test with identical web browsers up - ask the "helper" if they all look the same when scrolling). When something is made that different than another model, seeking an exchange from the manufacturer seems like a reasonable request.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5882",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Software to sync external HD and NAS - must work with FAT32 I am a photographer and archive my images on a NAS (LaCie Networkspace), but as this is a single point of failure I also back my images up to an external harddrive. However, when I am away from home I archive my images straight to the external hard drive.
I would like to be able to keep these devices in sync to ensure that al images are on both drives.
Looking at the "Favourite Mac software" question, I saw Carbon Copy Cloner mentioned, which unfortunately only works with HFS+ formatted drives, so I can rule that out. I have also tried LaCie's SilverKeeper software in the past, but could not get this to work correctly. As it seemed to think that there were too many errors and just stopped working each time I tried to sync.
Can anyone recommend some reliable and intuitive software for this task?
A: I used the Intego sync software that comes with LaCie drives. It wasn't great, but it did the job. It is FAT32 compatible. You can get the free LaCie version here (version depends on the drive; you need the code that came with it). LaCie's instructional article is here.
A: I'm not sure on the ettiquette of answering your own question, but when I downloaded the Mac App store I came across Get Backup Lite (App store) which seems to be a lot better than the Intego software that comes with LaCie drives. I've tested it on a 100GB folder between an external drive and a NAS, it was slow, but that was probably more to do with it being a network drive.
There is also a Pro version (App store), which adds 2 way sync and encryption, which I may upgrade to in the future.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5884",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: New Apple ID not pushed to iPhone I recently changed my Apple ID from an old email address to my current one. I updated the Apple ID in iTunes and then synced my phone with iTunes. Now, however, when I try to download new apps (or update existing ones), I get the standard notification asking for my Apple ID Password, however the Apple ID that is displays is my old Apple ID. When I enter in my password, it tells me that "Your iTunes Store password was incorrect. Please Try again".
I believe the problem is that for some reason iTunes is not pushing my new Apple ID to the device. Anyone know how to rectify this problem?
A: On your iPhone, go into Settings -> Store, sign out of your old Apple ID and sign in with your new one.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5887",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can spyware affect the iPad? I tried to login to my gmail, hotmail, and facebook accounts today. I could not login to those three because they said that my password is incorrect. So I tried to think what I did yesterday. I only used those three websites on my iPad.
One thing I noticed with iPad's safari is that it does not warn me for suspicious websites like Chrome or Firefox do.
I concluded that either someone hacked my facebook account and found primary email accounts from facebook and hacked my emails (since they all use same passwords) or my iPad has been hacked. Is it possible that my iPad was hacked?
A: Don't be so quick to jump to conclusions, there are other possible attack vectors. iOS Safari is one of the most secure browsers because of the sandbox design of iOS.
First and foremost, do you use the same password for all three? Password reuse is a dangerous problem, because if one account is compromised an attacker can try that same password on other websites to see if you have the same password there.
Secondly, how complex is your password? If it's a word (or combination of words) from the dictionary, attackers can run automated login attempts to guess short passwords. If your password is short and only contains words then it's much easily guessed using this method.
Thirdly, there's no guarantee that the passwords were compromised in the last 24 hours, it could have happened in the past week.
In any case, change those passwords soon and promptly, make sure they all have different passwords, and try to use numbers, symbols, or uppercase letters to prevent a dictionary attack. Also don't use common tricks like "password1" or "abc123" or "blink182" because attackers keep common passwords like that on file for dictionary attacks.
A: To date, there has never been a spyware issue on any iPad. Apple's OSes are generally highly secure; even the desktop OS has few such issues.
So, rest assured your iPad is highly secure, much more so than any Android tablet.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5895",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How can I get "Automatically fill free space with songs" to reserve more space than a half gig On my iPhone 3GS (32GB) I want to keep more than .48GB free space when I tell iTunes to "Automatically fill free space with songs" for doing things like taking pictures/recording videos.
I don't want to create a playlist by hand to do the same thing. I like how it randomly comes up with new songs to put on there (and yes I'm aware of the "random"ness of iPods ;) )
Do I have any options?
A: Unfortunately no, the automatic filling takes place during sync, and only gets changed in size if you add/remove things that will also take place during sync.
If you want to limit it while also preserving some of that randomness, try creating a Smart Playlist that will select songs at random, and then tweak the "Limit to" feature until you have enough space free. It limits to number of tracks not size, so it won't be exact, but it will allow you to (roughly) tailor your size.
Edit: Actually I made a mistake, it is possible to limit to a GB amount
*
*Create a Smart Playlist
*Under "Match the following rule:", select something broad like "Media Kind", "is", "Music"
*Tick the checkbox next to "Limit to"
*Select "items" and change it to "GB" and enter your desired GB amount
A: Neth, you don't need to recreate the smart playlist to get a new random order : just select all tracks in it (command+A) then delete them with the backspace key. They'll get randomized, nothing gets "deleted".
A: According to this question it is possible. I don't have an iPhone to test with.
From what I read it's important that when you connect the iPhone/iPod go to the summary tab of the device. Click on manage music manually and then press Apply before going to the music option under the device on the left-hand side.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5897",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: How to stop "password reset" emails from Apple? Every day or two, I get another "how to reset your AppleID password" from Apple. They assure me my account is secure.
I've never gotten more than one of these from any other individual service, ever. It's getting pretty annoying with the Apple ones, though.
Short of deleting my Apple account altogether, is there any way to stop this?
A: If you're getting these, it might mean someone is trying to hack into your Apple account. And they don't know your password. Though they would be stupid to keep pressing the Reset link unless they're also trying to hack into your email account to get the email too. I don't assume the emails come with an IP of the computer sending the request? Maybe you could contact Apple and see if someone on an outside IP is trying to access your stuff.
A: You can stop getting these emails by switching your account to two-step authentication now that iCloud and Apple ID support that. Do keep in mind, that if you receive that email, someone (or some bot / computer script) is telling Apple to begin the reset procedure for your account and if they happen to have compromised any step in the email chain between you and Apple - they can take control of your account.
You'll no longer have security questions to ask and Apple will never allow the password to be reset via emails from iForgot.apple.com. You'll instead get a SMS code (or iMessage) to a trusted iOS device or use your recovery key and current password to reset the password going forward.
*
*Apple ID: Frequently asked questions about two-step verification for Apple ID - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5570
A: I get these all the time, and it's not even Apple's fault.
If—like me—you:
*
*Use a me.com or mac.com email address as your Apple ID
*Have a common username (such as steve, @ either mac.com or me.com)
Then every Joe or Jane who comes along thinks that they have joe@mac or jane@me, can't sign in, and tells Apple to reset the password. Apple does what it should do and sends you an email telling you how to reset your password. Again. And again. And again.
If you're in the same situation, there's nothing that can be done about it (short of giving up that nice mac.com address).
A: Check that the home page/remembered pages in one of your browsers is not the password reset URL. Is there a particular time every day that you get them?
A: I got three then the next one said you've changed your password...I think my account was hacked. Another today so whoever it was us still trying! Don't ignore the emails
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5898",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: What control / access does the exchange team have over my iphone when using the exchange connector? I work at a small company (80 employees), when we deployed MS Exchange anyone who connected their iphones using the exchange connector lost the icon to the camera on the home screen. The engineers made some changes and the camera icon returned. What other access / control does the exchange team have over our phones? Can they view email (personal and exchange?), photos, web history etc?
A: From a quick glance at http://www.apple.com/iphone/business/integration/ -- Exchange can set password policies, network access (including VPN), restrictions on use of YouTube and iTunes, prohibit app installs and use of the camera.
More information at: http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/Enterprise_Deployment_Guide.pdf
I don't see anything about viewing web history, etc. -- but if you are on a company WiFi they could theoretically see what websites you are viewing.
A: They can reset your iPhone remotely. That's for certain. I had to go through that process when I left my old employer and had my personal iPhone connected to work via the Exchange Connector. You'll be able to restore it from a recent backup.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5901",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Can I add an arbitrary RSS feed to Flipboard? Would you please confirm that it is not possible to add an arbitrary RSS feed to Flipboard on my iPad? I find this so hard to believe that I'm in doubt I missed something...
A: Actually, it can be done very easily: Just put the name of the feed, or its URL, in the search box. Flipboard will find it. And then, you can select it, and add it.
A: Actually you CAN load a specific feed to Flipboard. Start by adding Google Reader. Then launch into it, and click on the downward facing Triangle next to the headline "Google Reader." It will then pop up a window showing you your various feeds. Select the one you want, and its name will appear as the new headline and you will only see stories from that feed. Then click the little "+ content" symbol in the upper left, and it'll add just this single RSS feed to your main flipboard page.
A: You are correct that you cannot add an arbitrary feed, and as @Mike Scott noted, you have to add your entire Google Reader account.
Frustrating because Flipboard is absolutely not a good way for me to read the bulk of my feeds -- Reeder is perfect for them -- but I'd love to add a few feeds that I rarely read to Flipboard, feeds that fit its visual style.
A: You can add an arbitrary RSS feed by creating a Google Reader account, adding the feed to that, and then linking it with Flipboard.
A: From the Flipboard tips page:
Discover Great RSS Feeds.
You can use the Google Reader service to access RSS and then read and interact with your feeds right in Flipboard. You can also use the Search feature to find any RSS feed by name, website URL, or RSS link.
A: More to the original point, unlike Twitter, Google Reader is not fully integrated with Flipboard as you can not add RSS feed to your Google Reader on your iPad app. Disappointing as Google Reader is a best archiver/database of all feeds you are following.
A: Yes, but it's based on blekko.com cached search result which may not be up to dated.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5907",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: OS X Dock+ Window/App management I'm working on my Mac for video editing from time to time and normaly use Windows and Linux. Thinking about to switch completely but there is one thing I'm so darn used to which held me back for years now.
On Windows or Linux taskbar (e.g. Avant Window Navigator) you click the app icon and the app and it's windows come to front. Now comes the important part!! IF you click a second time on the app icon the app (window) goes back to the taskbar, minimizes itself....
Is there any dock tweak or app which can do this??? I desperately need this as I'm used to this way for decades.
Thanks :)
A: You could try to use a keyboard shortcut instead. Either ⌘ + M to minimize the window or ⌘ + H to hide the application altogether.
Otherwise, you may want to try HyperDock (free beta for now), I believe you could do what you want to do with its custom shortcuts.
A: You want to use Dock Expose - click and hold on the icon in the dock item.
(assuming you are using Snow Leopard)
details here
A: Right-click on your Dock, and select Dock Preferences (found in System Preferences). From here, select Minimize windows into application icon. As it says, all windows of said application will store in that icon on the Dock. From here, Exposé will show a separate pane when activated that will present you wish the minimized content.
Otherwise a third party solution like Witch might work for you.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5911",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Mac OS X 10.6 includes Java 6? The default install of Mac OS X 10.6 includes Java 6, or is it still Java 5?
A: On my Mac mini under OS X 10.6.5, a java -version gives me Java 1.6.0_22.
It's an out of box + upgrade from 10.6.4 to 10.6.5 and installation of last Xcode 3.
A: Snow Leopard comes with Java 6, Leopard is J2SE 5. Just see any Java update support article for OS X 10.6 and there will be mention of Java SE 6 see here.
A: According to some sources, Snow Leopard comes with Java 6. Java 5 is not even installed.
A: Snow Leopard comes with 64 bit Java 6.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5915",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
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Q: What are the advantages of Time Capsule over Airport Extreme with an external hard drive? I would like for someone to outline the differences between buying a time capsule vs. just getting an airport extreme and attaching an external harddrive. The latter seems more flexible (easy to change external harddrive) and even cheaper, yet people are getting time capsules.
What are the pros and cons.
Thanks.
UPDATE
Could you please elaborate on:
*
*How easy is it to setup with an airport extreme. (Apple explicitly mentions you can add a harddrive to airport extreme, but doesn't say anything about time machine. Is there anything more to it?)
*What are my options if the Time Capsule harddrive fails and/or I need more storage later.
*What are the differences in the router capabilities, e.g. - number of ports, number of supported users, usb jacks, etc.
A: As above the Time Capsule is the easy solution.
I can only really comment on your second point, I bought one about 3 years ago and 18 months ago the hard drive failed, it seemed to be a known problem as Apple replaced the Time Capsule free of charge even though it was outside of the warranty period. What could not be replaced however was the 18 months of backups as Apple would not have replaced the Time Capsule had I opened it up to get a the drive and try to recover the data. So after that experience I won't be buying another Time Capsule.
If you are not particularly after a router there are now other companies that offer Time Machine compatible network storage, which may be worth looking at.
A: If you are considering alternative solutions to a Time Capsule, and since you seem particularly worried about hard drive failure and future expandability, you might consider getting a Drobo. It's a storage system that spreads your data over multiple drives, allowing you to hot-swap drives when one fails or you want more storage. The company has an article on their page titled "Drobo Complements Time Machine function of Mac Leopard OS X". However, note that this is a storage solution only, it doesn't provide wireless network connectivity. There's a Drobo model that can connect to a network via Ethernet which in turn you could connect to an Ethernet+Wireless router, but I am not sure whether using it that way is compatible with Time Machine. Also, this is far from cheap. But given your concerns over hard drive failure and future expandability, you may want to check it out further.
(I originally wanted to post this as a comment on LC1983's answer and Tom's follow-up comment, but because I don't have enough reputation to post it as a comment I tried my best to turn this into a "potential" answer to the question. My apologies for not fully answering the question though.)
A: Note that according to the following page, it is possible to set up an AirPort Extreme for use with Time Machine but it's not recommended:
http://web.me.com/pondini/Time_Machine/Airport.html
The same site nevertheless also still provides instructions on how to set it up. I'll post the link in a comment below (due to lack of reputation points I can only include one link in my answer). You can also find other advice there such as on how to keep multiple backups if you're particularly worried about the need for that; see the link "FAQ" at the top of the page for an overview.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5919",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to install an app on iPhone from a second machine? I actually took many hours this morning to find out how to do it, but I want to see alternatives to it.
I got my iPhone in sync with my iTunes at home, my first machine. I could "just" bring the app folder/file back home and sync through that. It works just fine.
The question here is on alternatives to that. Jailbreak or not, how could we do it on a second machine?
edit: I mean to install an actual file like application.app or application.ipa just like they are on the Mobile Applications folder or on iPhone's own /Applications one.
A: For most users, the headache free method is preserving the iTunes folder in its entirety and bringing it over to the other computer. You would then sign into the account you obtain the app with on that computer, and authorize it.
If you're simply without the first computer and want to get the app back, then you would simply re-download from the App Store for free (assuming it hasn't been removed).
A: I seem to remember this question being asked before, but the link eludes me at this moment.
In short, you can't. iPhone syncing is on a per iTunes-installation basis. Plugging the phone into a different machine and trying to sync will result in iTunes asking if you want to wipe the data and re-sync from the new iTunes repository.
A: It's quite simple if you have iOS SDK installed. I've found the solution in the first place I should have looked for, because I actually generated the app file using Corona. But I suppose this is irrelevant to the question.
Open Xcode Organizer, plug in the iDevice and drag n' drop the app into "applications". That's it.
Now, if you don't have iOS SDK, I highly recommend against installing it just for this. It's almost 5GB of downloading. This is why I'd like to know of alternatives.
edit: I believe the best way is using the iPhone Configuration Utility, yet again like that guide from corona. I've confirmed it works just like using the Organizer, but it doesn't need the Xcode. Just download it (this needs a free login, or find another place on the web with that file, v3.2 is about 10Mb), and drag the app / ipa inside your phone. Dealing with licensing the iphone is a whole nother issue (don't you love self promoting?).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5923",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: how to activate internet tethering in iPhone 3G I am using an iPhone 3G and surfing internet on it. I want to connect this phone with my laptop so as to surf internet on it, but my iPhone carrier does not support the internet tethering option. It is invisible. Is there any way to enable that option.
A: it would involve jailbreaking your phone and using an app like MyWi
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5924",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: iPhone: how to see if GPS is working Is there a way where I can see if GPS is working? Or what the location service is using right now and why it is not using GPS?
(Because the location service has become very inaccurate after a recent jailbreak I did and I was wondering how I can check if it is really not working anymore or if I just had bad luck.)
A: I'm guessing turning off WiFi, standing outside and opening up Maps.app would do the trick, if it correctly displays where you are it works, if it doesn't... it doesn't.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5927",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Do MacAlly keyboards require drivers to function? I need to replace the keyboard on my iMac G5, and I'm considering the MacAlly keyboards, probably the iKey Slim as it's available for less than $20 with shipping and tax. It also has two USB ports on the back, which I need. My only hesitation is that I saw a review on Amazon that mentioned a driver problem. I'd prefer to avoid installing any drivers. The MacAlly site isn't of much help.
Can anyone tell me if MacAlly keyboards come with drivers? If so, are they necessary? If they are needed, am I best off buying an old Apple keyboard on eBay or is there another brand I should consider? (Kensington's Mac keyboard looks nice, but expensive.)
A: I severely doubt that you will need any drivers to make it work out of the box, as nearly all keyboards are just plug-and-play with the Mac, although it seems with this one you only need install drivers if you want to activate volume control and eject functionality. (if it's any help, the driver is located here). This driver appears to be rubbish, not very friendly and unreliable, so if volume control and eject keys are important to you, and you really want to avoid installing drivers, then you had better avoid this keyboard, in my opinion.
Replacements wise, Apple do great keyboards themselves, particularly the newer slimline style keyboards. These go for about £30-£45 on eBay. They do not, however, come in a wireless form with the numerical keypad, which I know will be a problem for some people.
Apple keyboards come in laptop MacBook layout (wireless), MacBook layout (wired with extra USB port), and MacBook layout with numerical keypad (wired with extra USB port) variations. These all work right out of the box.
If you really want an Apple wireless keyboard with the numerical keypad, you can get help with that here.
In terms of others besides Apple's, I know logitech do some nice ones that work very well, but thats about all I can tell you I'm afraid.
Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5932",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
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Q: How can I fix the GPS problem that occured after jailbreaking iPhone 3GS 4.2.1? I have an iPhone 3GS (old bootrom) and updated to 4.2.1 via iTunes a few days ago. Then I jailbreaked it via redsn0w 0.9.6b6. I only marked the option to install Cydia, nothing else (i.e. I didn't updated the baseband to 6.15.00; in settings on the iPhone, it says I have 5.15.04).
Now, it seems that GPS is not working anymore. Why? How can I fix it?
If there is not really a way to fix it, what are the options? In any case, I must have GPS working and I must have the jailbreak.
Downgrade to 4.2 somehow? Or reset it somehow?
A: You'll need a copy of your old SHSH blobs. If you don't have it, I don't believe you will be able to downgrade.
If you have your old blobs, grab a copy of the older firmware and follow various guides
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5933",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Local reverse/duplicate image search for Mac? I'm searching for an application to find duplicate images.
In my Linux days, there was a nice Gtk+ application which I could provide some folders and which would list all duplicate images based on some algorithm to determine image-equality (It could detect duplicate images even if one image had a lower resolution or was color shifted)
It was also possible to modify the threshold to prevent false-positives.
So far, I found nothing for Mac OS X which could do this.
Nice GUI is a plus.
A: dupeguru picture ed is free and does exactly that. http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/22724/dupeguru-picture-edition
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5934",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Monitoring and disconnecting users from an AirPort Extreme Does anyone know a simple way to monitor who is connected to an AirPort Extreme, see the bandwidth they are using, and the ability to disconnect them or throttle their bandwidth usage?
I know for disconnecting two options would be
1. updating wifi password and restarting the AirPort Extreme
2. setting a limit by MAC address
but I am looking for something that wouldn't involve restarting the AirPort each time.
A: Sadly, there doesn't seem to be a native way to do this.
With regard to detailed bandwidth monitoring, the Airport Extreme supports SNMP (Simple Network Management Protocol) so if you want to put in a bit of effort, you could set up Cacti http://www.cacti.net/ and point that at the base station.
As far as remote disconnection of users, there is no way that I know of short of the two options you mentioned.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5936",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: iTunes: What is the usefulness of checked/unchecked songs? I know the functional effect of unchecking a song: it doesn't play (except when explicitly double-clicked) and doesn't sync with an iPod/iPad. But how is this useful? Does Apple officially recommend any sort of usage of the checkboxes? Or, more subjectively, do you make use of the checkboxes in iTunes, and if so, what songs do you check or uncheck and why?
A: It keeps holiday music out of my playlists, off my iPhone, until I want to overdose on them from December 24th through 25th every year.
For that alone: I love the check box.
A: I think you sort of answered your own question as far as "usefulness" of the feature.
As far as a use case I would use the check boxes more when I had a larger capacity iPod that could fit my entire music library. The songs I would uncheck would be skits on hip-hop/rap albums and I have a few theme songs from movies or tv shows I would also uncheck. I would then select the "Only sync checked songs" option in iTunes so I would only have to plug my iPod in and it would automatically sync my library except for those that were unchecked.
A: I uncheck tracks that contain dialogues, like the Pulp Fiction OST, interviews in Beatles at BBC, or an interview at the end of the Aqualung 25th Anniversary.
A: There are a few good case scenarios here to show why they exist. One for myself is that I have a lot of lectures in my iTunes library, but do not want to listen to them regularly. Unchecking them will ensure they neither sync to a device, or play unless I selectively choose to play it.
A: Almost all the answers so far seem to be things where a smart playlist might be a better solution… but given that, here's mine:
There are a lot of bands that have one great album and a few hit-or-miss albums. For them, I buy the good album + the greatest hits.
But that leaves me with duplicated songs. Yes, they're really good songs, true, but they're still dupes. Those, I check off so they only show up once.
A: They can be used to solve the dreaded "remove all files with exclamation marks" problem.
See https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/35813/646
A: Some DJ dance compilations add, in addition to all tracks, a mixed version of the album as a single 1-hour-length track. (As the last track in the album).
It's very useful for this scenario.
A: I typically don't uncheck tracks, but when I do, it's typically because I've ripped an entire CD, and there are tracks that I don't think I will want to hear, except on rare occasions. If I wasn't completely pedantic about having everything I own in my library, I'd probably just delete those tracks, but I don't want to have to dig the CD out of a box and re-rip it, should I change my mind in the future.
I think most other uses are better supported using smart playlists. IMO, checkboxes became mostly pointless after Apple introduced smart playlists.
A: In my case, I've added an audiobook to my iTunes to listen to on my iPhone while I'm out of the house and want to, but can't, read my book. (I get carsick while reading, etc.) However, it's 20 discs long and averages 20 tracks per disc. I want to keep it in my iTunes because I spent quite a bit of time adding all of these discs and adding information, but I also don't want to have it popping up with my music randomly! Also, I don't want to bloat my poor phone with the entire thing. So I sync like four discs at a time, and uncheck the ones I've already listened to and ones I don't want on my phone yet!
A: I have a lot of duplicate songs - the same song by the same artist, from different CDs. I compare them and uncheck the one that is not as good quality as the other.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5937",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: How does the Docx rendering in Pages compare to Mac Office 2011 It's about time for me to bit the bullet and buy either iWork 09 or MS Office 2011. My main concern is rendering docx files (I've been using OpenOffice for many years, but the .doc and .docx rendering is still suspect).
How do they compare?
Does Pages render a docx file at least 95% accurate?
From the info online I understand that Pages cannot save in docx format.
Which do you prefer?
To clarify
I'm talking about more complex layouts.
A: To answer my own question.
I've found that Pages does a much better job at rendering more complex DOCX layouts than OpenOffice currently. Pages does not save in DOCX format.
BTW.... You can get pages for $20 through the new Apple App Store :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5942",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Connect to Mac Mini and browse files - works on one Mac but not the other Edit: Case closed! I reinstalled my OS and now it's working.
I've got one Mac Book, one Mac Book Pro and one Mac Mini (the latest version). The Mac Book can easily connect to and browse files and folders using Finder on my Mac Mini via my wifi network but not the Mac Book Pro and I think I've set everything up right - enabling file sharing on the Mac Mini and also screen sharing. Both file sharing and screen sharing works from my Mac Book using the main admin account on my Mac Mini.
When connecting from my Mac Book Pro I'm able to connect through Finder and see the shared folders on my Mac Mini but when double clicking a folder (for example the folder called "Richard") I get this error message:
The operation cannot be completed because the original item for "Richard" cannot be found.
The error message is actually in Swedish, since that's my language, but I'm pretty sure it's translated exactly like this on a default Snow Leopard installation.
Also, a weird thing is that when I first set up my Mac Mini I was actually able to access it and browse files from my Mac Book Pro as well, but just for a week or so and then this error message started showing up. Don't know if I might have changed any settings but I don't think so.
Does anyone have a clue what this problem is due to and how I might be able to solve it? I would love it if I could at least get some hints on how to address the problem - what to look for in the system preferences etc. And please let me know if I'm not giving you enough details!
A: The error sounds like it's unable to resolve the alias to the original source. What I would do is remove the shared folder(s) from the Preferences on the Mac Mini, and recreate a preference for a specific folder (ie. Public), with further testing. If the issue were to persist, I'd create another User and test from there.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5944",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
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Q: iPhone Calendar.App and TimeZones Is there a way to make the iPhone's Calendar App support timezones with appointments, or is there an alternative App that has multiple timezone support? I have a friend with an iPhone 4 (4.2.1) who travels around quite a bit and always struggles to book appointments with people when he's outside of his home country, the U.S.
The conversation might go something like this:
[The scene is a New Zealand Beach on a Sunny January 5th]
"Let's met for lunch a 2pm, sushi, my shout"
"Sweet, so, 2pm new zealand time is 12pm yesterday american time, so I'll put it in my iCal at 12pm yesterday"
He needs iCal to be smart enough to adjust to the timezone of the country he is in. His iPhone does figure out local time from his telco and adjust that when he enters a new country.
A: Both iCal on Mac OS and Calendar on iOS have timezone support where you can tell it what timezone to use to show your calendar. It didn't seem clear which you were asking about, so here's how to enable and use it on both.
On iCal on Mac OS, it is located at:
"iCal" menu -> "Preferences..." -> "Advanced" tab -> "Turn on timezone support"
Once enabled there, your iCal window will have a menu on the right top that allows you to select the timezone to use.
On Calendar on iOS, it is in the system preferences at:
"Mail, Contacts, Calendars" -> "Time Zone Support" all the way at the bottom
You can turn it on there and select the timezone in the selection below the toggle.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5956",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Syncing iPhone Contacts with an Exchange Server Happy new year!
I'm using an iPhone 4 with 4.2.1.
On the iPhone with Exchange Server, how do you get the group 'All On My iPhone' to sync with the exchange server? At present everything but that group is synced.
A: I'm using Google sync, which works like an Exchange server, so my experience may not be 100% the same as with a full Exchange set up.
I had to import all of the contact to the server (I did this through the Apple contacts app on my Mac) then synchronised them from there. I deleted all of the contacts from my iPhone to prevent contacts being displayed twice. So in short I'm not sure that it is possible to synchronise that group at all.
FWIW I also disabled synchronising contacts with my Mac through iTunes, leaving Exchange to handle all the contact syncing.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5957",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
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Q: How to sync the data structure of my iPod touch with that of my iPad? I have two device: iPod touch and iPad. All of them use the newest OS.
I have a folder in my Windows, call it c:\mybook.
I put all my pdf books into this folder. No nested categorizing folder for sure.
I import these books from iTune using CTRL+O (add file to library). Then I sync my iPod touch.
From within iPod touch, I make collections based on genres such as Physics, Math, Biology, etc. I move each book to the proper collection. All books have been arranged and I am happy.
Next... how to make the arrangement in iPod to be reflected to my iPad? Hopely using the simplest method. For sure, my iPad has been restored to default factory without any data now.
Thank you.
A: Sync your iPod Touch configuration back to iTunes and then sync your iPad with iTunes!
For syncing your iPod configuratuon you must only connect it with iTunes. Every time it will be created a backup of the device. After that you connect your iPad (which has been restored to default factory) with iTunes.
Then you can do the following steps which are described on the apple support sites (Restoring your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5959",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to fix an iPod Classic with a bad hard drive? I've an iPod Classic 160 GB bought in 2007.
I've never had problems copying songs into it, through iTunes, but from the beginning I never had much success using it as a portable hard drive. Whenever I tried copying large files, or many files, into it, it would hang and reboot after a while.
The same happens when I tried copying videos into it, also through iTunes, to the extension that iTunes complains that it can't read or write to the iPod.
Usually, restoring the iPod returns it to the state that I can copy songs again, but when I increase the usage to videos or large files the trouble starts again.
I'm pretty convinced it has a bad hard drive, but it is not covered by warranty anymore. Fixing it at a local Apple representative would cost as much as buying a new one, and the ifixit howto is pretty much discouraging, besides stating that video iPod use special hard drives and they don't sell them anymore.
I was hoping that mounting the iPod in disk mode and running a check disk would mark the bad sectors and allow me use it as a <160GB iPod, but I can't find what tool would do that on the Mac.
What do you recommend? How should I proceed?
A: You can try to diagnose if the disk has a problem with the diagnostic mode.
To enter the diagnostic mode, press the folowing key for 5 seconds when the apple logo appears after a reset :
"back"
"select"
In the diagnotic mode, you can navigate in the menus with the back/next keys and launch a bunch of test, inluding hard drive tests.
If the tests shows a disk problem, the solution is to change the disk. Buying a second-hand ipod disk from someone who breack his screen won't normaly be very expensive.
A: It wasn't clear from your question—can you mount the iPod as a hard drive?
If you can, try running Disk Utility on it.
A: Buy a new drive
When you are certain the drive is broken (and this does happen), you can buy a new drive (for example on ebay).
You can find another link to buy the drive, and an installation guide on how to install the drive on iFixit
I had similar issues and replaced the drive with succes. It is not so hard to do it yourself.
A: Most likely your iPod Classic hardisk has got stuck in retract, but if you are lucky, try the Hard Reset.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5961",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: When I add a file to iTunes library, does iTunes make a copy of it? If yes, where is the copy saved? When I add a file to iTunes library, does iTunes make a copy of it? If yes, where is the copy saved?
A: There's also a special folder inside your iTunes library folder (Whatever you set it to if not default) called "Automatically Add to iTunes" which is a watched folder. Any time you add a file to it, while iTunes is running, it'll grab it and move it to the correct location. I just use this now. I keep an alias to it in a Stack on my Dock.
A: If the option "Copy files to the iTunes Music folder when adding to library" is activated, iTunes makes a copy.
The default storing location is:
*
*Windows 7: \username\Music\iTunes
*Windows Vista: \username\My Music\iTunes
*Windows XP and 2000: \Documents and Settings\username\My Documents\My Music\iTunes
*MAC OS X: ~/Music/iTunes/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5963",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Why is Mac-to-Mac screen sharing just hanging? I have my iMac set up with:
*
*Firewall off
*Screen sharing on for specific user, no general VNC password
*File sharing on (with liberal access)
I want to connect to it's screen from my MBPro. Whenever I try to start a screen sharing session from the MBPro to the iMac, either via Finder's screen sharing dialog or by calling the Screen Sharing app directly, it just hangs. And hangs. And hangs. And eventually the "Connecting..." window just quietly disappears and no screen is shared.
I checked Keychain to make sure there isn't a bad password set for the iMac and, nope, nothing there. I'm not being prompted for a user name or password from Screen Sharing when it runs.
I don't have a central user authority on my network. Each Mac has its own local user settings. But the user names and passwords are identical.
I can connect successfully using Jolly's Fast VNC. It actually finds the iMac via Bounjour broadcast. But this software, technically, is not free and I'm perplexed as to why the built-in Mac approach isn't working for me.
Update: here are the screen sharing settings on the iMac.
And this is what I have set when you click on the 'Computer Settings...' button:
Jolly's Fast VNC continues to find (via Bonjour) and connect to this machine without any issues. I have to give it my user name and password for the iMac when I want to connect. Finder, on the MBPro, can connect to the file shares (using my iMac user name and password) just fine. Clicking 'Share Screen' in the Finder window wakes up the iMac -- the display turns on and what not. But the connect times out.
Are there log files for Screen Sharing on the MBPro I can look at to debug this? What about log files on the iMac for Screen Sharing? Something that might shed some light on why Screen Sharing says it's connecting and then just mysteriously stops?
A: since your a site to site mac network, your networks dns servers need to be update with A records of your mac machine names, to whatever.whaterver.com or .edu or what ever you are,
that way the dns can resolve host names to ip addresses, it is especially complex on spaced names, windows machines with simple names are easy to convert, name to ip either via WINS or DNS, so you have 2 choices for the future,
*
*create local name mappings to STATIC ip addresses on the macs into your /etc/hosts file on EACH mac
*buy your it folks some donuts and coffee and kindly ask them to setup some a records in DNS for your macs.
*if you have an Xserve it should do this for you, just make sure your directory utility is setup to use it.
A: Since the Screen Sharing feature seems to be the only one unable to connect, the best way to diagnose its behavior is by using the application directly.
Please, launch screen sharing located in:
/System/Library/CoreServices/ScreenSharing.app
The application has no visible "UI" so don't expect a fancy Cocoa interface. Instead, once you have loaded it, all you'll see is this "poor" icon in the Dock:
Click on it and then go to Preferences in the Mac menu bar. You should be presented with:
Notice the second option to only encrypt passwords and keystrokes. That's fine, but as you can see, there's no option to skip encryption altogether. Some VNC versions have incompatibilities with encryption, but this would be rather shocking since you're talking about OS X vs OS X.
In any case, once you have the settings like that, try connecting, again, in the menu bar: Connection -> New (or ⌘cmd + N).
A simple dialog appears asking you to enter the Host's name. Following your screenshots, try: 192.168.1.99 and hit enter.
We'll see what happens from here. Also, have the Console.app open on both computers, to see if there are any System messages going on (or anything related).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5966",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "14"
} |
Q: Is it possible to arrange or categorize the imported pdf assets from within iTunes first and then sync the devices (iPod,iPad) with iTunes? Categorizing the pdf assets from within iPad or iPod is possible now. But I think it is more elegant if I can make the categorization from within iTunes in advance.
Is it possible to arrange or categorize the imported pdf assets from within iTunes first and then sync the devices (iPod,iPad) with iTunes?
A: You might want to look at Calibre. Famously one of the ugliest Mac apps ever created (although it's much nicer looking now), Calibre is an e-book manager. You can use it to process your books, categorize them, tidy up the metadata etc. and then hit "send to device" to copy the books into iTunes.
I originally used it because my ePub collection for my Sony Reader was in it, and so it was the easiest way to get that to my iPad, but I've stuck with it because it has lots more features than iTunes.
A: Within iTunes-Books, you can view all the ePub books and PDFs you have available to sync to your iPhone or iPad. The PDFs will have a spiral bound edge and the ePubs have either a brown generic cover, the cover art included in the download or the cover art you added via "Get Info"-"Artwork". If you rename the PDF with a number (01-10...) before the title, it will automatically sort via name and put the 01s together Alphabetically and so on down the number line. This is not as nice as setting up a "compilation" like you can do with audio books or multi-CD albums but it should sort your PDFs for you.
A: I took a quick look in the iTunes Music Library.xml and couldn't find my books in there (music, movies, TV shows, podcasts and audiobooks are all in there - books and pdfs are missing). The Book category does not seem to affect the Album/Grouping/Genre metadata of the book (from iPhone to iTunes) and the Album/Grouping/Genre metadata does not seem to affect the Book category (from iTunes to iPhone).
If I remember correctly, the iBooks app asked me if I wanted my bookmarks and other data to be stored on my AppleID account and I confirmed. If the categories are stored along with the bookmarks in the cloud then you are in tough luck until Apple decides to add this functionality to iTunes.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5967",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Portable apps for Mac? Windows users have the luxury of being able to load a flash drive with specially-modified "portable" applications, which run and keep all data contained on the flash drive so that moving them from computer to computer doesn't change the experience or modify the host computer at all. In the past I have gotten various apps from portableapps.com for this purpose.
Now that I'm a Mac owner, I wonder, is there an equivalent for Mac? At first thought I figured applications could just be copied from the Applications folder onto a drive, since they are self-contained; but I do know a little bit about how they actually store preferences in other directories and some even store things in the Library folder and stuff like that. So applications aren't truly natively portable, even if they require no installation.
Are there any portable Mac apps out there? Are there some recommended websites for these apps?
A: Big list of Portable Mac Apps here
*
*http://www.freesmug.org/portableapps
*http://osxportableapps.sourceforge.net/
And if you use Google, you'd find those, and many many other sites...
A: There's a portable Firefox for Mac; I don't know about anything else. It seems that portable Mac apps aren't as useful as portable Windows apps, as you'd usually use portable apps on a kiosk computer or on a loaner computer, and there are very few kiosk/loaner Macs around.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5969",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Video/Image processing on Apple iPhone4 I know iPhone 4 supports H.264 and MPEG-4 as video codecs, and JPEG and M-JPEG as image codecs.
I'm looking to get some information on the iPhone 4's video and image codecs and processing chips/SoC parts.
*
*Does anyone know which vendor provides the SoC's to enable image/video compression and processing on the iPhone 4?
*Are the video/image codec solutions - 'Software codecs' on a specialized dsp-core/processor or hard-wired as in a FPGA/ASIC solution?
Any pointers would be useful.
A: I think you'll get the answer in the iPhone 4 teardown that the guys at iFixit did sometime ago:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/iPhone-4-Teardown/3130/1
You will be able to see there what components are inside the iPhone 4, but I'd guess all the video compression/decompression is processed by the A4 processor (an ARM Cortex A8 core variant).
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Apple-A4-Teardown/2204/1
A: Goldenmean-
It's hard to determine, isn't it? No credible online documentation for A4 cores other than ARM + Imagine Tech.
As far as I can tell, Apple currently provides frame (stream) based H.264 decode API, but not encode. That could be because there's not enough horsepower for multiparty video conf (encode + multiple decode)... or it could just be there is a hardware-assist encode but Apple doesn't want to make it visible through APIs (royalty/licensing issues come to mind).
Our calculations show NEON is not enough for multiparty video conf -- or at best it may work but shut down everything else.
-Jeff
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5971",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Why can't I delete movies from my iPhone 4, either from the phone or through iTunes? I was on vacation and took some videos, and now the iPhone 4 memory is near full. So I tried to delete other experimental movies I made using Handbrake, so that I can take more video or photos, but if I plug the iPhone 4 into my Notebook computer, I can seem to delete it on iTunes?
Maybe because the computer I sync with the iPhone 4 is at home (a desktop), but not with me on vacation.
I can't delete it on iTunes, can't delete it on iPhone itself. I am stuck during the vacation, or is there a way to handle it?
A: While not a SuperUser-compatible answer, since the computer interface is missing, I just did the following:
*
*Open the iPod app
*Go to Videos
*Swipe over a video from right to left
*Press Delete
*Confirm
*Done!
No computer needed. Also works for music
A: I'm not aware of anyway to delete music/video directly from the phone, without connecting back to the original iTunes and telling it to remove the file. If you're jailbroken you could SSH/SFTP into the phone and try removing the file from the phone but I'm not sure what affect that would have on the iPod's index of files.
I think you might be stuck until you can get back to the original system.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5973",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Can I force password protection of specific apps on the iPad? I am unable to find out how to force the iPad ask for my password when I want to use certain applications (e.g. e-mail)
I want to be able to share the iPad but I don't want anyone to have access to my e-mail account. The only way I can see to do this is to create and delete the account every time I use it, but this is an extreme hassle. Ideally it should simply ask for my password whenever I want to access my e-mail. How can I do this?
A: That's not a general feature of iOS. You can lock the entire device, but not certain applications.
The iPad mail app does not have this as a specific feature either - when adding an account you must store the password so it can check for new mail in the background.
There are some third party apps for iPad that require a password to access them but I'm not aware of an email app with this feature. But it might be worth a search.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5976",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Can I move my iTunes library to a network drive? The question title pretty much says it all. I'd like to be able to free up space on my iMac G5's hard drive. I had considered upgrading the drive, but moving it off the Mac seems like it'd be a better option.
If I'm able to do this, might it be possible that other non-Mac computers could make use of the MP3s on the server? I'd love to, for example, be able to access the library when the Mac isn't on, particularly from my ChromeOS laptop and Win7 netbook. (I can post a separate question to SuperUser about that part of the issue.)
The mac is a G5 iMac, the drive is a LaCie 2TB drive connected to an AirPort hub via USB.
What would I need to do to get this to work? What about protected AACs from the Apple Store? (I still have a few of those, but most of my iTunes library is DRM-free.)
A: You certainly can.
In iTunes, you can choose where your music library is stored:
ITunes->Preferences->Advanced->ITunes...location
If you want multiple iTunes accessing the library, it can get complicated. If other music players just use the folder structure, it should just work.
Extra scripts and config options can be set up so that iTunes uses a small local library if the network drive is not mounted, etc.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5979",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do I connect the location of a calendar event with the iPad maps app? I would like to be able to either navigate from a calendar event to its location within maps, or view all upcoming events on a map. Preferably, both.
How do I connect the location of a calendar event with the iPad maps app?
A: Sadly, (as of iOS 4), this cannot be done. The location field of an event does not recognise an address, no matter how perfectly you enter it.
[UPDATE] In iOS 5, the location field in any calendar event will (if properly formatted) hyperlink to the Maps app.
A: It wouldn't be a perfect solution, but you could try pasting in a maps.google.com link into you calendar events.
For example:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Infinite+Loop+1,+Cupertino,+CA,+United+States&sll=37.331693,-122.030764&sspn=0.007311,0.009871&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=1+Infinite+Loop,+Cupertino,+Santa+Clara,+California+95014&ll=37.331906,-122.031262&spn=0.007311,0.009871&z=17
If you open this link on an iPad it should take you to the Maps application.
But you would have to do this manually on a computer for each event.
A: There are several apps that have this featured into them. Many of them are free. I think downloading a free app with this feature would be the simplest most straight forward way to do this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5984",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Great iPod Click Wheel Games for Kids My niece has got a used iPod nano (not the newest model); in the App Store are about 50 games for iPods with Click Wheel. What game can you recommend?
A: Vortex and Pacman are quite good as well. They're listed in iTunes as 5th generation compatible (Sonic... is for 3rd, 4th and 5th generation devices). I've got a 30GB video capable iPod and they all work fine...
A: I have fond memories of the Sonic the Hedgehog game on older iPods :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5986",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Automatically launch a program or action when an external drive or disk is connected I have an external drive. Is it possible to launch a program or perform an action when I connect it or plug it in?
A: Marco Polo can perform actions (you specify) based on attached USB devices.
Edit: MarcoPolo isn't supported anymore, but there is a maintained fork of it: ControlPlane
A: The likely most robust solution is to create a launchd job with the StartOnMount property set to -boolean YES:
StartOnMount <boolean>
This optional key causes the job to be started every time a filesystem is mounted.
This is how Time Machine does it (see /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.backupd-attach.plist).
You need to check if the desired /Volume/... is available, but in my experience, it's faster than using Folder Actions.
A: A similar question has been posted in the MacRumors forum here:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1029207
The specific suggestion there is to use the application MarcoPolo.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5988",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Where are good places to buy RAM (memory) for a Mac? What reputable stores exist for purchasing RAM for a Mac?
A: Macs and PCs use the same type of RAM just like they use the same type of Hard Drives, if you buy RAM directly from Apple it is definitely marked up. I have personally had good experiences with Kingston. Other popular 3rd party suppliers are New Egg, Tiger Direct, and Crucial.
A: Personally I go with OWC. They are more famous for all Mac related upgrades. Here is the memory upgrade link http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/apple/memory/
Main advantage is you can choose RAM based on your model/ make of the year etc...
A: Once you figure out what brand(s) of memory you're looking for, the place to start shopping is DealRAM.com.
You put in what computer you have, and it'll tell you what your options are and where to buy at the best price.
A: I'm surprised no one has mentioned RamJet for Apple memory. Their prices are good, shipping is excellent and their web site is optimized for eliminating mistakes in ordering the incorrect memory.
I find their site to be the best reference on the web for rapidly finding the memory needs for any Mac bar none - even Apple's on-line documentation pales in comparison to RamJet for memory specifications or planning an upgrade.
They use pictures of the products and have very good descriptions to figure out exactly what mac you own. I've made perhaps 8 purchases from them and shipping, returns and customer support are top notch. I do regret buying from one of the "cheapest" vendors linked above when the product they sold didn't work and they charged me incorrectly for the return / exchange. It eventually got sorted, but I'll never get back the time and effort to clear up their mistakes on that one order.
Do your homework on what happens if you need support down the road and know the time periods for returns / warranty / support if you care. I'm more value sensitive than price sensitive but RamJet is generally very competitive on price as well. I'd also put Crucial and OWC in the tried and true category, but I've never seen a time when their prices were lower enough for me to not spend my time and $$ with RamJet.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5994",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What's the racoon doing in my apple? I'm not normally one for paraniodly checking my activity monitor for rogue processes; but this one just has my internal nature-watcher all curious. Why is there a racoon running under my root user? What's it doing? Foraging? Looking for nuts and berries? Staring at headlights?
A: From Apple's documentation:
racoon speaks the IKE (ISAKMP/Oakley) key management protocol, to establish security associations with
other hosts. The SPD (Security Policy Database) in the kernel usually triggers racoon. racoon usually
sends all informational messages, warnings and error messages to syslogd(8) with the facility
LOG_DAEMON and the priority LOG_INFO. Debugging messages are sent with the priority LOG_DEBUG. You
should configure syslog.conf(5) appropriately to see these messages.
A: The documentation link of the main answer is now dead, but you can still run:
man racoon
and obtain an answer:
racoon is used to setup and maintain an IPSec tunnel or transport channel, between two devices, over which network traffic is conveyed
securely. [...]
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5995",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "15"
} |
Q: change colour from mailbox in Mac Mail Is it possible to change the color of the mailboxes in Mac Mail?
Here an example
Sometimes I manage to create Silver colored mailboxes by accident so I am wondering if it is possible to label them with other colors than silver and blue.
A: No. A silver coloured mailbox indicates that you deleted a subfolder within that mailbox. You need to remove the parent after removing all of the subfolders. Then the parent will disappear as expected.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/5999",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: iPhone app to download/upload files How can I upload/download files from/on to a jailbroken iPhone 3G?
Are there any apps that allow me to do this?
A: http://www.dropbox.com/iphoneapp
2 Gb free account. No jailbreak needed.
Uploaded files can be private or be made public (accessible via http link).
A: Diskaid will let you manage the contents of the filesystem from your Computer.
iPhoneBrowser will as well, but the interface is much cruder. It is free, though (DiskAid is $10).
i-FunBox is another free option (though not open source). I have no experience with it.
On the iPhone, you can get SafariDownloadManager to download files. It's $5, unfortunately.
Once you've downloaded the files, it's likely you will need to move them to whatever application you want to consume them with, so a local filemanager is probably needed.
iFile is a really nice file manager, and is good for moving data files between apps (books, etc...). It's a few dollars, though.
I believe there are a few free filemanagers on cydia. I'm not familiar with them, though.
A: Install OpenSSH on Cydia (remember to change from the default password somehow - can also be done through ssh of course) and use your favorite SSH client. Here's a little how to suggesting WinSCP. On Mac you can use ssh with Terminal.app or even AFP directly with Finder.app with Cydia's netatalk.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6005",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: One message that cannot be deleted on iPhone 4 I have a single message in Mail on my iPhone 4 that just cannot be deleted. I get a popup saying Unable to move message - The message could not be moved to the trash folder.
I'm using the latest version of iOS. The account is an Exchange Active Sync account and deleting other messages is not a problem. I also use the same Exchange account from Outlook on my desktop and the message in question does not exist in Outlook. It only shows in Mail on iPhone.
I also have an another IMAP account on my iPhone and deleting isn't a problem on that account.
How can I remove this rogue message?
A: You could try removing the Exchange account completely and setting it up again. Maybe this also deletes the message.
A: It sounds like Mail got a bit out of sync and it can't move the message because it doesn't exist. Here are a few things you can do to get it to resync.
*
*'Quit' the Mail app - from the home screen, double 'click' the home button to show the list of recent apps. Press and hold the Mail app icon until it shakes and displays a red icon. Tap the red icon.
*Restart your phone - always a good thing to try with software and caching problems.
*Re-configure your mail account - this is a bit of a pain, but you should won't lose any messages because they are all on the server.
A: I found that after a month the undeletable email would disappear from the mail app. This I can live with because I don't like the other option of setting up the Exchange account all over again.
A: I had the same problem occur recently with iPhone 5. After several days of trying everything under the sun I deleted the account and set it up from scratch. Not really a solution cause I'll be upset if I have to do this frequently.
A: I found a quick way that worked.
*
*Go to the mail setting
*Unselect mail (checkbox) leave the others as they were.
This takes a minute or so and the corrupt e-mail go. Then reselect mail and the correct ones appear.
A: Try this link. there are several options to try.
http://appletoolbox.com/2014/03/ios-unable-to-move-message-fix/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6006",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can I download a song twice without paying a second time in iTunes? If I've previously bought a song in iTunes, can I download it again on another computer without paying for it a second time? Both computers are authorized to the same account.
A: If you log in to the iTunes Store with the same Apple ID, you can. Go to the Purchased section (located in the sidebar on the main page) and re-download any songs you wish.
A: No, that is not possible. That is described on that apple support page.
A: You will be able to copy it yourself, with a USB stick etc, or if you are running the latest version of iTunes and both machines are on the same network you will be able to use Home Sharing to identify which tracks are in one library but not the other, then copy them across. You can even set Home Sharing to automatically sync new iTunes purchases.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6008",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Do I have to repurchase Apple apps through the Mac App Store to get updates there? Back when Apple announced iLife '11 I bought a copy, but now I see that it's also available on the Mac App Store. If I want to be eligible to use the Mac App Store's built-in update mechanism to update it, do I have to repurchase it through the Mac App Store?
A: Yes, you do have to re-buy to get updates via the Mac App Store. Via Daring Fireball:
The Mac App Store may show software
bought from us previously as
“Installed”, even though they’re two
different licenses. You will not get
Mac App Store auto-updates unless you
purchase from the Mac App Store. To
re-enable the “Purchase” button in the
Mac App Store, just drag the app to
the trash. Your preferences/sites will
not be affected.
In other words, for apps that use the
same bundle ID for the both the Mac
App Store and non-App Store versions,
the Mac App Store will not install
updates to already-installed non-App
Store versions, but it will recognize
them as being already installed. If
you want to get updates via the Mac
App Store, you’ll have to re-buy the
app through the App Store.
Honestly, I'm really surprised by this.
UPDATE: I'd recommend reading Cabel Sasser's blog post over at Panic about this as it provides a more comprehensive picture of what's going on, and includes some developer-related information.
A: No, you do not need to repurchase an Apple App through the Mac App Store if you want to be eligible to use the Mac App Store's built-in update mechanism to update it.
You can perform updates of Apple provided Apps which you bought on CD/DVD (before the advent of the App Store) with the App Store's update feature. Even though the App is not shown as Installed normally, this changes to Update if an update is available. This is at least true for me with Aperture.
A: Yes. Unless you buy the apps through the App Store, they will not be official App Store apps. Meaning no reinstalling if you ever needed to, no installing on other Macs, etc. And you won't get updates through the App Store, you'll get updates through Software Update (which you can find in System Preferences).
However, if/when you upgrade to Mountain Lion, which came out last week, Software Update has been integrated into the App Store. So all your Apple software, regardless of whether or not it was purchased through the App Store, is updated in one place.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6022",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: How do I delete an app purchased through the Mac App Store? I notice that apps downloaded through the Mac App Store are placed in the /Applications folder on my Mac. Is there any special procedure to delete them, or can I just drag them to the trash like I can with other apps?
A: There's no delete mechanism in the App Store. You can use a normal app-removal procedure to get rid of it. Apps leave config information and what not lying around that's outside of the .app container, so just dragging the .app container to the trash doesn't uninstall it completely. An uninstaller app like TrashMe will find and remove most of the little bits apps strew about your profile.
A: If you have Lion, then you can also hold down the option key in Launchpad; the icons will start to wiggle and show little x's on all the App Store installed apps very much like iOS does. Click the x and confirm the deletion and it will be the equivalent of dragging it to the trash from Finder; which means supporting preference files, etc. still remain, but for most users that should be of no concern.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6024",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: If I delete a paid app purchased through the Mac App Store, can I redownload without paying? If I delete an app purchased through the Mac App Store, can I download it again without paying for it again like I can with iOS? In the event of an app restore, does the app retain settings, saved progress, etc from the previous installation?
A: Yes. Just go to the "Purchases" tab and click "Install" by the app you wish to reinstall:
Well-behaved apps should retain settings, etc upon reinstall, as merely deleting the app from /Applications is not sufficient to remove that information from your system. This may not be the case if an app cleaner is used.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6026",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Change background based on location/wifi? Does anyone know if an application that can change the background of the desktop to a different set of images based on your location?
I am thinking about writing an AppleScript to do this, but if someone knows an application / script that already does this that would be great?
I want it to check every time I login to the computer and it would be great if it could do the 1 hour rotation that I currently have, but otherwise a random image from a folder each time I login would be fine too.
A: Anything involving location-aware contexts can be done with Marco Polo.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6027",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Recording video to MacBook Pro I have an RCA feed with video. I'd like to capture this video to my Mac. I am looking for a mobile solution, something that does not require a wall plug, although battery power is OK. What methods exist to capture video on a laptop?
Here is a solution (mini portable VCR) that does not use a computer, but if I can get it into my Mac for around that price, it would be preferred.
A: The Elgato Video Capture takes video from a standard 3-plug RCA feed and records it to your Mac or PC in H.264 (they provide the recording software). It is USB-powered. $99 list, $79 Amazon.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6031",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How do I reset the software Mac OS X Update Server I somehow managed to mis-configure my Mac OS X update-server and would like to reset it, the problem is that there is no reset button to put the update-server into it's original inactivated state.
So does someone here know how to reset the update-server completely without leaving traces from the configurations which have been done before?
A: You should be able to control this from the Server Admin application. If it's not obvious from the UI or the help, add a comment here and I'll walk you through the UI steps.
A: It seems that that the question has been asked once in the superuser forum but I'm not sure if this method still works now with 10.6 Server. Can someone confirm if this method still works?
https://superuser.com/questions/85913/reset-os-x-software-update-server
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6033",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I update apps that I've already purchased through the Mac App Store? I've previously purchased several apps (Pixelmator, Rivet, a few others I can't think of now) that are now available in the Mac App Store. Given that apps in the store are not allowed to use their own updating frameworks (like Sparkle), how will I get updates to them in the future? Can I somehow tell Apple that I already own those apps and get updates through the store? Or will the individual developers have to work something out on their own?
A: From Daring Fireball:
Panic on the Mac App Store
Cabel Sasser on what it’s like for existing
Mac apps that are now in the App
Store:
PS: If you’re a current customer,
there’s no way to convert a previous
purchase into a Mac App Store purchase
— that requires a re-buy. But
remember, what you have now will
continue to work just fine.
UPDATE: The Mac App Store may show
software bought from us previously as
“Installed”, even though they’re two
different licenses. You will not get
Mac App Store auto-updates unless you
purchase from the Mac App Store. To
re-enable the “Purchase” button in the
Mac App Store, just drag the app to
the trash. Your preferences/sites will
not be affected.
In other words, for apps that use the
same bundle ID for the both the Mac
App Store and non-App Store versions,
the Mac App Store will not install
updates to already-installed non-App
Store versions, but it will recognize
them as being already installed. If
you want to get updates via the Mac
App Store, you’ll have to re-buy the
app through the App Store.
A: It depends.
As reported in the Daring Fireball link: it doesn't work for some apps like Panic's Transmit, Unison or Coda. The licensing schemes used when you buy via the App Store versus directly from the developer are different and won't allow for it.
But this article from Cult of Mac has the author successfully updating a previously installed version of TextWrangler to the latest version via the App Store.
I just tried a quick Mac App Store experiment.
One of the more tempting offerings on offer there is TextWrangler, the excellent all-purpose text editor from Bare Bones software. It’s been free on the web for years, and now it’s free on the store.
I already had a copy installed, but on closer inspection, my existing version was 3.1, and the one in the App Store was 3.5. What would happen, I wondered, if I clicked the “Install” button? Would the App Store version be installed separately? Would there be some kind of conflict? Or would it Just Work?
Of course, it Just Worked. TextWrangler 3.5 was installed where I expected it to be, and the older version was overwritten.
So now you know: if you see something in the store that’s already on your hard disk, you shouldn’t have any problems installing a newer version from there.
I disagree with the Cult of Mac articles conclusion, that "if you see something in the store that’s already on your hard disk, you shouldn’t have any problems installing a newer version from there" -- as Panic has directly contradicted that conclusion and they build and sell through the App Store so, pretty authoritative there.
I did talk to the developer of my favourite Twitter app, Kiwi, and he said he wasn't sure if the App Store could be used to update copies of Kiwi bought before the App Store came in to existence.
So welcome to the Land of Confusion.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6034",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Migrating from Old to Less-Old Mac - any other specific issues? Scenario - I have a new Mac, and am giving my old one to my father-in-law.
He now has an old Gx Gumdrop iMac running 10.3 (I think), and the new-to-him mac is an older Core2 iMac running 10.6
From How can I transfer data from a G5 iMac to an i7 iMac? I have an idea of how to connect the two machines.
Other than deleting my old data, etc.; any specific gotchas to watch out for, given that I am targeting not a brand-new mac, but an old one? Can I just trigger the migration assistant (because normally it is triggered as part of the initial install process)?
Thanks
A: Yes, if you're fresh installing the new Mac it will ask if you want to transfer information at the end of the install process - just have a firewire to firewire cable handy and have the old mac booted into target disk mode (hold down T while the old mac is booting up).
Just check you can boot the old mac into target mode first - I know some of those old macs weren't built with the capability. If you can't target mode just comment on the answer or your question, there are other ways around this.
The only gotcha I can think of is any PPC apps (ones that use the older Power PC processors) like AppleWorks will need to use Rosetta to run, which might make them run a bit slow or cause general funkyness with those apps. You'll want to upgrade your Dad's apps to their Intel versions if you can - using something like App Fresh after the migration would be a good idea.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6038",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Entourage MyDay replacement I am migrating from Entourage to Mac Mail. Entourage has a tool called MyDay which is quite handy for getting an overview over my appointments first day in the morning.
Is there a competitive product available which snycronizes with iCal appointments and todo list?
A: I think I found one app which could do the job on the app store, it's called "Today - Daily Calendar & Task Manager"
A: This software, iDeskCal might do it. It gives you access to iCal on your desktop, but it's unclear to me if it supports to-dos.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6040",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Is it possible to use Image Capture to scan over WiFi with an EPSON SX620FW, and how to set that up? I'm wondering whether it's possible to use Image Capture to scan over WiFi with my EPSON All-in-One SX620FW? If so, how can I set it up?
I've found instructions from someone claiming it works with their EPSON PX710W, but I haven't been able to replicate these. I can scan without problems over WiFi using the bundled EPSON Scan application, but am wondering if and how I could use Image Capture instead.
A: I've got an NX420, and I can use the scanner with Image Capture over WiFi. What did it for me was installing the drivers that came on the CD (the ones Apple included didn't do it, and neither did the ones on the Epson website).
You might try that.
A: Software Update provided me with an update for EPSON printers today and now I can use my EPSON SX620FW to scan over WiFi with Image Capture, no additional setup needed (apart from adding the device in the Print&Fax system preferences panel)!
The update is also available through Apple's website:
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL900
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6041",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Merge Time Machine Backup Is it possible to merge to Time Machine Backups?
When I look inside the sparse-bundle which Time Machine generates then I see that the folder-structure ordered by dates. So theoretically I could copy the files from my old TM sparse-bundle into the new one. Is this possible?
A: I tried: it works.
Here is how:
I have a time machine volume and a backup of it. I update this backup every two months, using Super Duper.
Recently, several successive mistakes made my time machine volume loose its first two years of backups. I then had a primary time machine volume with all backups but first two years and a backup time machine volume with all backups but latest two months.
I decided to experiment. Starting from scratch on a new hard drive, I copied the backup time machine volume to the new hard drive with Super Duper (backup all files using erase and save option). Then I copied the primary time machine volume on top of that, again with Super Duper (backup all files, using copy files that are different).
I ended with a new working time machine volume including all backups, from day one up to today.
A: Simply: Don't!
Time machine uses hardlinks, that you will not be able to recreate by simply copying stuff around. What this means in plain english is you might end up with each copy of the file taking up space - rapidly filling the drive.
Time Machine uses great care to only store each file once - and only takes up more space when the file changes. It assumes everything already stored is correct and won't go back and "fix" any errors you make. It's possible to make a tool to merge the backups, but Snow Leopard makes it easy to browse both backups. Just connect all the drives and option click the Time Machine icon in the menu bar to browse the other backup drives and see that history.
Many people have their time machine data on several drives - you can safely put them on the shelf and move to a new drive rather than go back and edit the past. It's easy to move the whole package to a new drive if needed - just not splice data in to an existing backup folder.
A great place for information is this time machine and internals site and also the Time Machine discussions forum at Apple (I'm assuming we're talking about Snow Leopard here).
A: Time Machine does not (or should not) work when you tamper with it's files in any way. Even a cloning of the TM backup and restoring it can (and probably will) make Time Machine not work with the backups anymore.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6044",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad on Windows-7 I am using Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad on Windows 7 and its numeric pad is not working on windows 7, it was working OK on windows XP, what I can do to make it work on it too?
A: Hah! I actually use a mac keyboard as the normal keyboard on my windows boxes. I like the laptop-feel and the aluminium.
This is easy to fix.
Push "Clear".
The "Clear" key on the numberpad gets mapped to the "NumLock" key on windows.
If you want to fix the swapping of the alt and "Command" keys, KeyTweak works well.
It can also let you set the additional F-keys (e.g. F13-F19, which are not real F-keys) to be whatever you want. I have them mapped as media keys (next-track, pause, etc...)
A: Press and hold "clear" key for three seconds. It will work as NUMLOCK in windows. You can shift to numerics and the "<-- -->" kind of finctions.
Hope it will help.
A: Took me a while to figure out the "Clear" key (which acts as NumLock on long-press, in Windows) is the square with the "x" inside, on the upper left corner of the numpad, on my Apple keyboard.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6046",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Mail.app import from Entourage failed I am trying to import my entire folder structure from Entourage 2008 to Mail on a Mac running OS X 10.5.8.
First I tried to export the whole email database from Entourage to the Desktop as a .rge file. The export aborted with a message saying that my Entourage database is corrupt and that I should rebuild it.
I then went over to Mac Mail and imported the Entourage folder structure through File > Import mailboxes… > Entourage. The bulky import did take some time and the progress bar never reached its full length, but at the end the import said it was successful.
When I checked the imported folder structure in Mail I noticed that quite a few subfolders were missing. I checked Console and saw following message:
Mail[2899] Applescript Error:
aliasForMailImporter got an error:
AppleEvent handler failed.
What does that mean and what can I do to move my subfolder structure over completely?
A: Based on the message saying that your Entourage database is corrupt and needs to be rebuilt, I have to guess that your Entourage database is corrupt and recommend that you rebuild it.
As the saying goes, "Garbage in, garbage out."
Here are the directions on how to rebuild your Entourage database.
A: Your first problem is that you're dealing with a corrupt Entourage database. Rebuild it. I suggest then using the Jolly Roger script to export all of your mail. Find it here... http://jollyroger.kicks-ass.org/software/ArchiveMessageFolders.zip
Then you can import the structure by using the import feature in Mail.app. Select the most parent folder that has been exported, and it will drop down to all of the subfolders automatically.
Good luck.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6047",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Connection to Wireless Network always breaks down I have a Netgear Wireless Modem Router which I have configured to not broadcast it's SSID and the security level is set to WPA2 with a MAC Adress Filter. When I manually connect to the wireless network through the Wireless settings then my Mac has a hard time to even find the network and just gives the message that the timeout was to long. When I manage to connect with the wireless network then my Mac will hold the wireless connection for sometime until some random time the mac will disconnect itself from the wireless Network and then I will have to repeat the same procedure with reaching the wireless Network.
Does Anyone know what is causing these troubles?
A: Could be one of many, many things. Have you tried altering the security settings on the router? Are you close to the router? Strong signal strength?
Have you tried connecting other laptops? Is the behaviour different?
Try opening your console (/Applications/Utilities/Console) and connecting. Show the log list and switch to the system log. Watch it, connect to your wireless network, and wait for it to disconnect. Look through the log from the time you connected to the time it disconnected, and see if there are any messages which might indicate what's going on.
Your question is not specific enough, yet, for a proper answer. Give us more to go on.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6052",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Photos get stuck in iPhone email outbox Whenever I email a photo from the iPhone 4 photo app then the email gets stuck in the Outbox. Just doing a refresh leaves it there, even when viewing the outbox. To get them to send I manually need to open each email in the outbox and hit send again (and again specifying what size to make the image).
Is there a way to make the photos send automatically, or to at least send them all at once? Manually sending each one at time is tedious. The first few times I discovered this I had quite a few emails to send out (some of them more than a month old).
Update: I am sending them from the standard photo app when they get stuck. Then resending them from the standard mail app. The size doesn't seem to matter (small, medium, large or original). Neither does WiFi or 3G.
A: This fixed itself when I updated to latest version of iOS.
A: I still had the same problem in iOS 6!
For historical reasons I had two accounts syncing with GMail. One for the contacts and one for Mail/Calendar. As soon as I reduced it to one account the mails were sent immediately.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6057",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to disable CMD+Q combination? I am using WinOS at the office and MacOS at home. But I am more experienced on WinOS. While i am browsing (via Firefox), I use ⌘ CMD+Q accidentally to write "@" mark because of WinOS and keyboard habits. So, the browser quits and I lose all what I've written.
Is there a way to constrain this key combination on MacOS or do I have to look for it on Firefox? (I know, the best way is adapting MacOS but mostly I am working on WinOS.)
A: Unfortunately, Firefox (at least the 3.6 version I experimented with) does not disable the command shortcut for Quit when you change it in System Preferences.
I think the quick and easy fix for this is to add ⌘Q as a global shortcut to something else innocuous. In my experiments, I found this to work:
*
*Open System Preferences.
*Click on the Keyboard pane.
*Click Keyboard Shortcuts tab.
*Click Exposé & Spaces shortcuts in the left side list.
*Under "Exposé" change the shortcut for "Desktop" to ⌘Q
Now when you accidentally hit ⌘Q, your desktop will magically and amusingly appear reminding you of your folly. Hit ⌘Q again and you're back exactly where you were.
As a sidenote, after a while you may want to change this back after you "unlearn" your behaviour. ⌘Q, the Mac equivalent to "ALT-F4" has been the standard shortcut since the introduction of the Macintosh, and like the other "standard" shortcuts ⌘W,⌘Z,⌘C,⌘V and so on, it's best to learn them to ease use of other Mac computers or when you upgrade.
A: Here's how to change that particular shortcut for Firefox:
*
*Open System Preferences. This is in the Applications folder.
*Go to the Keyboard pane, and click the Keyboard Shortcuts tab.
*Click the [+] button near the bottom.
*Select Firefox from the Application menu. For Menu Title, type 'Quit Firefox' (without the quotes)
*For the Keyboard Shortcut, push a key combination that you're not likely to hit by accident (control-q, for example).
*Open Firefox. Now, cmd-q does nothing (you can quit with ctrl-q, or whatever you set it to).
Hope this helps.
A: I'm on macOS Ventura and I need to remove the “Close Window” shortcut Cmd+W, as I often accidentally close an app.
The way to do it is to find out the exact specific command in the menu bar. In my case, it is called “Close”.
Then go to System Preferences > Keyboard > Shortcuts > App Shortcuts then click + to add a new shortcut for the app. Next, reassign an obscure keyboard shortcut (for me Ctrl+Option+Cmd+W).
Reference: How to disable COMMAND+Q for certain applications
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6058",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Do I need to have system administrator permissions to install from the Mac App Store? Where does the Mac App Store install its applications to? Is this a system-wide location, or somewhere inside my Home directory? Is it possible to use the App Store on machines where I am not a System Administrator (just like I can currently install almost all applications I manually download by putting them in ~/Applications instead of /Applications)?
A: Yes.
Apps are installed to the usual /Applications folder. Non-admin users can browse the store, but they will need an admin username/password to install apps. Source: Help menu of App Store/Purchase Applications/Buy, download, and install applications/To buy, download, and install an application:/Step 4.
A: Non-administrators can be added to the _appstore group:
http://darenhunter.com/how-to-allow-non-admin-mac-user-to-use-app-store/
A: On OS X Lion and above, you no longer need an administrator's username and password to install applications from the Mac App Store. However, you cannot delete them without an administrator's username and password.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6065",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Why is my iPhone screen stuck on the 'connect to iTunes' screen? I need help with my iPhone. It's stuck on the 'connect to iTunes' screen.
iTunes does recognize the iPhone, but when I select 'restore', it goes through a few progress bars, then errors again. I've already tried to hard reset the phone, but that doesn't work either.
A: Please note that the instructions I am giving are assuming you are using an English copy of Windows, since I do not have a Mac and therefore do not have much experience with them. However, the steps will be very similar, and I will try to note where things might be different for Mac OS X.
First, check all of the following:
*
*Make sure your copy of iTunes is up-to-date. In Windows, open iTunes, click "Help", then "Check for Updates".
*Make sure you are connected to the internet and the connection is reliable. iTunes contacts Apple several times during the restore procedure, and if iTunes fails to get a response during one of these check-ins, the restore will fail.
*Make sure you are using the correct version of iTunes for your system. If you are using a 64-bit version of Windows, you will need to install the 64-bit version of iTunes. If you have Windows XP, you need the normal 32-bit version. If you have Vista or Windows 7, click the start orb, right-click computer, then click "Properties". In the "System" section, look for the line that starts with "System Type". If it says 32-bit, use the normal iTunes installer. If it says "64-bit Operating System", download the 64-bit version of iTunes from http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1047 (If you have trouble determining whether you have a 32-bit or 64-bit copy of Windows installed, try installing iTunes using http://www.ninite.com and it will automatically download the right version)
*Delete the restore files from your computer. In Windows, press WindowsKey+R, type '%appdata%\apple computer\itunes' then delete the folders iPod Software Update and iPhone Software update if they exist. If you are using OS X, the folder should be ~/Library/iTunes/.
*If it still isn't working, uninstall iTunes, reboot, then install iTunes again, then reboot again.
If none of the above work, do the following to place your iPhone into DFU mode. Some people have better luck with restoring with this method.
*
*Plug the iPhone into the computer, and wait for it to be recognized in iTunes.
*Press and hold the home and sleep buttons.
*As soon as the iPhone screen goes blank, count to six seconds. At six, release the sleep button, and continue holding the home button.
*You should see or hear the new hardware notification on your computer. When you do, you can release the home button. If the new hardware notification, wait until iTunes recognizes it and tells you it found an iPhone in restore mode.
*The iPhone screen should be blank. If it shows the "Connect to iTunes" screen, unplug it, then try again from step 1.
A: If you see Connect to iTunes screen when you start iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch
In some situations, you might see the Connect to iTunes screen when you start your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch. When this happens, your device is in recovery mode. Here's what to do.
Restart your device by pressing and holding the Sleep/Wake and Home buttons at the same time until you see the Apple logo.
If you see the Connect to iTunes screen again, you'll need to reinstall iOS. Follow these steps:
1. Connect your device to your computer.
2. You should see this message: "The software on [your device name] needs to be restored to factory settings or updated."
3. Click Update to reinstall iOS while keeping your data.
Get help if, after following the steps above, you see a restore error.
If you don't see a restore error, but you still see the Connect to iTunes screen when you start your device, contact Apple.
Source - https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT203122
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6067",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: iPhone4: Keep playing songs after song selected from Search iPhone screen ends? When I first got my iPhone 4, if I selected a song from the "search iPhone" screen (when you hit home twice), iTunes would start playing a playlist of all my songs, starting with the selected one.
I recently updated it to 4.2.1 (I don't remember exactly what I was at before). Now, when I select a song from the "Search iPhone" screen, iTunes starts playing a playlist containing only that song.
Is there a way I can get the old behavior back?
A: I believe it has to do with the way you last accessed your iPod. If you open your iPod and select songs and then select a song to play, the next time you search for a song, it will continue to play through all of your songs. If the last time you accessed the iPod by going to a particular album or playlist, it will only play the songs located in the same album or playlist as the song you searched for.
Its a little confusing but I could try to explain it better if you need me to.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
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} |
Q: Can I browse the Mac App Store without Snow Leopard? I understand that Snow Leopard is required to install the Mac App Store and actually install apps. But is it possible to browse the store on the web the way you can with the iTunes Store?
A: It is not possible to browse the App Store. But if you have a link, such as this one, then you can view the app description in your browser.
A: The need of 10.6 is clearly stated on Apple website here. Click then on Get the Mac App Store. See How button.
You then see "The Mac App Store is available as a free software update for Mac computers running Mac OS X v10.6 or later. If you have an earlier version of Mac OS X, you will need to upgrade to Mac OS X Snow Leopard."
A: It's possible to browse the Mac App Store in your browser. Here is the link to do so:
http://itunes.apple.com/us/genre/mac/id39?mt=12
A: You can effectively search the App Store by using the Google site keyword:
Examples:
*
*https://www.google.com/search?q=site:itunes.apple.com+ssh
*https://www.google.com/search?q=site:itunes.apple.com+ebooks
*https://www.google.com/search?q=site:itunes.apple.com+sync
If you use Fetch search and enter the command "app query", Fetch will return results from the App Store.
A: It is possible to browse the Mac App Store, although not directly.
A number of sites scrape Mac App Store data and provide a way to search and go through app descriptions via a web browser. Some examples are:
*
*AppShopper
*App Annie – free registration required.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6073",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Make Safari tab bar display all tabs at once without horizontal scrolling? How can I make the Safari tab bar display all of the tabs?
Right now it displays only n tabs and the remaining are only accessible through a >> button.
How can I display all tabs at once without needing to scroll horizontally? Can tabs be set to shrink to a much smaller size, to display more at once?
A: Actually there is a plugin (not to be confused with an extension) called Glims which allows the tabs to have a minimum width roughly the size of the close button. It's free - Glims
The screen resolution you are set to will ultimately determine your results, but for me I can normally only fit 13 tabs in a full screen Safari window. With Glims installed and this option turned on, it fits around 50 tabs. After that it resumes the usual behavior of giving you the >> for more tabs.
The drawback is obviously you loose your tab titles, making it difficult to discern one tab from another and this is why Apple chose to impose this arbitrary limitation. However there is another feature in Glims to display the website's favicon in the place where the close tab button usually is. This helps alleviate the aforementioned dilemma to an extent.
FYI - Glims does much more than that as well.
A: You can also try those following keys: Cmd + Shift + T but also chose go to view" Show Tab Bar.
If you are looking for a fresh app I recommand you to try the sweet Tabexposé which works for Leopard as well as Snow Leopard
A: It sounds as if you already know you can click on the » to see the additional tabs.
Outside of that, your only other option is to make the browser window wider.
A: In Safari 14 for macOS 11 Big Sur, tabs now shrink down to the size of their Favicon. This allows for many more tabs to be seen at once without horizontal scrolling.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Time Machine multiple Disks Backup over Network I have a Mac OS X Server 10.6 with a hard disk attached to it which has been configured as Time Machine destination. Over the Workgroup manager I have assigned the TM destination on Computergrouplevel. Now I would like to swap Backupdisks so I can always store one disk offsite.
Is it possible to change disks and let the clients update their TM destination automatically when the Disks have been changed?
I also appreciate if you have other usefull methods to overcome this obstacle. An example would be dynamic links where you could specify the path with a wildcard a for example:
If my two disks are named Backup_Disk_A and Backup_Disk_B then I would create this alias
ln -s /Volumes/Backup_Disk_%
The problem here is that when I change the disk then the link can't find the destination.
A: So I managed to get a solution.
You have to name your external disks which you want to swap with the exact same name (to be able to differentiate them just write different names on the cases). Then you insert one disk and share it as a time machine destination. Now go to the clients and select your shared time machine destination disk. When Time Machine has done its backup you can swap the external HD with the second one.
Time machine on the clients will not notice that the destination drive has been swapped, neither will the server (it seems that the shared time machine destination points to the HD name and not as expected to the HD GUID).
CAUTION This workaround works best with mac os x 10.6, Mac OS X 10.5 will notice a swapped harddrive and show an error which references to a missing cookie or something in this kind. When confronted whith this error just proceed and make new backup on the swapped drive.
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I disable this message: "the disk was not ejected properly"? Is there any way to disable the "the disk was not ejected properly" message?
I use a KVM and need to switch between two systems and have a memory stick that is in the KVM. The problem is that it's very annoying to get the message every time I switch from one computer to the other. I know, I can unmount it (and probably should), but I switch all the time, so it's a inconvenience to unmount, and there is nothing sensitive on the memory stick.
A: Certainly not an elegant answer but, you can disable UserNotificationCenter.app found in /system/library/coreservices - replace it with another app or file with the same name. It will stop any warnings popping up (including that your drive is full) so watch out for that, but in my experience it does what you are looking for.
I actually did this to my mac a long time ago, and forgot about it until you asked you question. Credit to Macpadawon at http://macosx.com/forums/mac-os-x-system-mac-software/297194-disable-device-removal-message.html for the answer - same place I found my answer a couple of years back.
A: Works with macOS Big Sur
This AppleScript dismisses all notifications about the disk not being ejected properly.
tell application "System Events"
tell process "Notification Center"
set group_index to 1
repeat
try
set the_window to group group_index of UI element 1 of scroll area 1 of window "Notification Center"
set notification to value of static text of the_window
set notification_title to item 1 of notification
if notification_title = "DISK NOT EJECTED PROPERLY" then
set the_actions to actions of the_window
repeat with the_action in the_actions
if description of the_action is "Close" then
tell the_window
perform the_action
end tell
end if
end repeat
# Wait for the notification to disappear so that the indexes of the remaining notifications are updated accordingly.
delay 0.25
# Do not increment `group_index` because all remaining notifications have their index decremented by 1 since this notification was dismissed. We do not need to worry about the notifications before the one just dismissed because we already know that they are not notifications about disk ejection.
else
# This is not a disk ejection notification, so skip it and look at the next notification.
set group_index to group_index + 1
end if
on error error_message
# There are no more notifications to process.
exit repeat
end try
end repeat
end tell
end tell
You can run this AppleScript every 10 seconds with the launchd PLIST below. Be sure to modify it to work with your own setup. Then place the PLIST in ~/Library/LaunchAgents and run launchctl load ~/Library/LaunchAgents/file.plist (replacing file.plist with the name of the file) in Terminal.
What's really cool about launchd is that if a job does not run because the computer is asleep (e.g., when your laptop is closed), launchd will run the job as soon as the computer wakes up again (and if the job was supposed to run multiple times while the computer was asleep, the multiple runs will be coalesced into one run upon wakeup). This is really useful when unplugging a closed laptop from a home dock with a hard drive attached and then using the laptop on-the-go.
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
<key>Label</key>
<string>com.YourName.DismissNotifications</string>
<key>ProgramArguments</key>
<array>
<string>osascript</string>
<string>/path/to/script</string>
</array>
<key>RunAtLoad</key>
<true/>
<key>StartInterval</key>
<integer>10</integer>
</dict>
</plist>
A: This can be done by changing the type of this system notification from alert to banner. Sadly, it can't be done using the GUI but can be done with a script. gist
The crux of the script is to clear the alert bit & ~0b00010000 and set the banner and modified bits | 0b01001000 of _SYSTEM_CENTER_:com.apple.DiskArbitration.DiskArbitrationAgent in file ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.ncprefs.plist
After this modification, the notifications will still appear but will disappear after a few seconds of their own accord.
Taken from: adafruit blog and tested successfully on macOS 12.6 Monterey.
A: updated new better method
As mentioned by Russel in comments:
sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.DiskArbitration.diskarbitrationd.plist DADisableEjectNotification -bool YES && sudo pkill diskarbitrationd
A: This applescript will close them for you. Paste it into Script Editor and then Save as an application. Then grant access to that application in (System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Accessibility)
Then you can use an application like ControlPlane https://www.controlplaneapp.com/ to run the application on wake thus closing them all automatically!
** Note: You will need to grant Accessibility access to ControlPlane as well.
tell application "System Events"
tell process "NotificationCenter"
set numwins to (count windows)
repeat with i from numwins to 1 by -1
tell window i
set temp to value of static text 1
end tell
if temp contains "Disk Not Ejected Properly" then
click button "Close" of window i
end if
end repeat
end tell
end tell
A: UPDATE!
OMG! QuantumG is a genius! Here is a hack (and I mean a real life hack) for disabling just this annoying message and leaving the rest of the notification system intact...
http://quantumg.blogspot.com/2015/04/disabling-os-x-device-removal-warnings.html
Warning: This is a pro-tip and not for the faint of heart! It requires hacking your Mac OSX system files and could result in you breaking your Mac.
Edited for clarity.
The issue with flash drives or other USB drives is this; whenever you write data to a drive... ANY drive on your system, the data is first written to a buffer in memory. Later, when the computer gets around to it, it will flush the buffers to the device (hard drive, SSD, or any USB device). That may be instantaneous (at least to us mere mortals) or it may take a few seconds. The possible delay means that if you yank a USB device before the buffers have flushed you may end up with a corrupted drive, or a set of corrupted files on the drive.
If you only read from a device, then there is NO NEED to flush the write buffers before you yank to your heart's content because they are empty and don't need to be flushed to the device.
So... The annoying MAC OS X warning is most probably NOT relevant. It is only important to do so if you have recently written to the device, and haven't given it enough time to flush the buffers (a few seconds, max). It is NEVER necessary to wait for the buffers to flush if you are only reading from the USB device.
Therefore Apple NEEDS to provide a way to disable individual messages for power users. Don't treat everyone as a n00b who can't be relied on to know how their computer works.
And to those who complain that I'm wrong, and there is a way to disable the messages by disabling the ENTIRE NOTIFICATION SUBSYSTEM are just plain wrong. Disabling the entire notification subsystem isn't an acceptable solution, just as removing the battery from your cell phone is NOT an acceptable solution to receiving too many telemarketing calls. The notification subsystem is important and shouldn't be disabled just because the OP finds one of the many myriad of messages to be annoying.
This is a problem that can only be adequately solved by Apple providing a way for users to opt out of specific messages.
A: your answer is here. Just replace a file with the one mentioned at the end of this article and jobs done. Nothing has changed in Sierra or High Sierra.
Disabling OS-X Device Removal Warnings In Yosemite
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6078",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "57"
} |
Q: MacBook Pro running Linux - only 3.6 GB RAM available (This is a repost of my question on SuperUser.com, hopefully it's better suited here ).
I've happily installed Linux on my MacBook Pro with 4 GB of RAM, but I only get 3.6 GB available:
robert@raptor ~$ free -m
total used free shared buffers cached
Mem: 3684 2184 1500 0 83 1096
-/+ buffers/cache: 1004 2680
Swap: 6149 0 6149
I'm running a 64-bit kernel so this should not be a problem:
robert@raptor ~$ uname -a
Linux raptor 2.6.34.7-0.5-desktop #1 SMP PREEMPT 2010-10-25 08:40:12 +0200 x86_64 x86_64 x86_64 GNU/Linux
What can I do to get the whole 4 GB available?
Update: this is what I get when running top on MacOS X:
PhysMem: 540M wired, 640M active, 231M inactive, 1411M used, 2685M free.
where used + free = 4096 MB.
Update 2: There's a thread on MacRumors.com where a user complains of the same problem with Windows 7/64 bit.
Update 3: /proc/meminfo output:
MemTotal: 3773288 kB
MemFree: 1164244 kB
Buffers: 109096 kB
Cached: 1270520 kB
SwapCached: 0 kB
Active: 1446756 kB
Inactive: 962728 kB
Active(anon): 803404 kB
Inactive(anon): 230556 kB
Active(file): 643352 kB
Inactive(file): 732172 kB
Unevictable: 0 kB
Mlocked: 0 kB
SwapTotal: 6297596 kB
SwapFree: 6297596 kB
Dirty: 792 kB
Writeback: 0 kB
AnonPages: 1029880 kB
Mapped: 185096 kB
Shmem: 4096 kB
Slab: 131260 kB
SReclaimable: 106212 kB
SUnreclaim: 25048 kB
KernelStack: 2680 kB
PageTables: 21248 kB
NFS_Unstable: 0 kB
Bounce: 0 kB
WritebackTmp: 0 kB
CommitLimit: 8184240 kB
Committed_AS: 3113016 kB
VmallocTotal: 34359738367 kB
VmallocUsed: 123884 kB
VmallocChunk: 34359596028 kB
HardwareCorrupted: 0 kB
HugePages_Total: 0
HugePages_Free: 0
HugePages_Rsvd: 0
HugePages_Surp: 0
Hugepagesize: 2048 kB
DirectMap4k: 54444 kB
DirectMap2M: 3852288 kB
Memory info from dmesg:
[ 0.000000] Memory: 3759972k/5242880k available (4780k kernel code, 1336600k absent, 146308k reserved, 6603k data, 892k init)
A: Some of the memory is used by the hardware -- for example, most MacBook Pros have 256MB of main memory used by the graphics adaptor. OS X knows about this and can account for it, but Linux doesn't. Your Linux installation has access to all of the available memory.
A: Mike Scott is right, and to give some ground to his statements I want to add something.
The output from /proc/meminfo you give is quite interesting. It give you a total memory of 3773288 kB (or 3.6 GB). The procfs documentation tells you that MemTotal as reported by meminfo corresponds to "Total usable ram (i.e. physical ram minus a few reserved bits and the kernel binary code)". So you have about 400 MB used for the firmware and the kernel image. Firmware could include BootCamp and the graphical memory. For the kernel, it is a bit more complicated to know, you would have to properly unzipped your kernel (/boot/vmlinuz...) to know the right size it takes in memory.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can I use the iPhone 4's camera via my Mac? I'd like to record some video on my MacBook Pro, which I could do using the built-in iSight except I'd like to record in HD. Rather than go out and buy a new HD video camera, is there any way of getting the Mac to recognise the iPhone 4's HD camera as an input?
Yes I know that I could just use the iPhone on its own and then transfer the video over, but I'd like to be able to see what I'm recording (without using mirrors). Have done a bit of Googling and can't see anything, so just thought I'd ask!
A: I've tried this, but unfortunately it doesn't work with iChat and PhotoBooth but works perfectly with Skype and other communications tools :
iWebcamera iPhone App ($4.99)
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to know my kernel extensions are 64-bit ready? Is there an easy way to tell whether all my kernel extensions will "survive" booting with a 64 bit kernel? I can of course try the "6-4 finger boot", but maybe there is a piece of hardware I use infrequently and that won't work when I use it in a month, leaving me to wonder what went wrong.
I can see a list of extensions in System Profiler > Software > Extensions, with 8 of them listed as not "64-bit (Intel)", but 5 of them are "Pseudoextensions" with a Load Address "built-in to the kernel", and the 3 others are CHUD-related and will probably be gone once I update Xcode? Is that enough to conclude that I won't have problems? Or are there extensions that are not loaded now and that I can test somehow?
A: As far as I know, System Profiler won't display information for any .kext's that are being loaded and are located somewhere else besides the /System/Library/Extensions/ folder.
To get comprehensive information about the kernel extensions which are currently loaded and in use on your Mac, you can use the kextstat command line tool.
Open up the Terminal application (in the /Applications/Utilities/ folder), type the following at the prompt, and then hit return:
kextstat
You will get a large list of all the loaded kernel extensions. You'll primarily want to focus on the bundle identifiers of the loaded .kexts. (That's the backwards domain name string such as "com.apple...."). You should be able to eliminate the ones that include "com.apple", as those will be Apple's and should have a K64 version. Once you've gotten rid of those, you'll then need to go over the remaining ones to make sure they are built as universal K32+K64 versions, or whether you may need to make sure you have the latest updates.
For example, after eliminating all the Apple kexts on the output I get, I have the following kexts listed. Since I switched to K64 a year or so ago, all of these are in order so everything is fine.
MacPro:~ mdouma46$ kextstat
Index Refs Address Size Wired Name (Version) <Linked Against>
73 0 0xffffff7f8111a000 0x8000 0x8000 com.AmbrosiaSW.AudioSupport (3.2) <72 5 4 3 1>
81 0 0xffffff7f811bf000 0x9000 0x9000 jp.plentycom.driver.SteerMouse (4.0.2) <55 29 24 5 4 3>
105 0 0xffffff7f81499000 0x5000 0x5000 com.Cycling74.driver.Soundflower (1.5.2) <72 5 4 3>
115 0 0xffffff7f814bf000 0xd1000 0xd1000 com.vmware.kext.vmx86 (3.1.2) <7 5 4 3 1>
116 0 0xffffff7f81590000 0xc000 0xc000 com.vmware.kext.vmci (3.1.2) <5 4 3 1>
117 0 0xffffff7f8159c000 0x7000 0x7000 com.vmware.kext.vmioplug (3.1.2) <29 24 5 4 3 1>
118 0 0xffffff7f815a3000 0xa000 0xa000 com.vmware.kext.vmnet (3.1.2) <5 4 3 1>
119 0 0xffffff7f815ad000 0x2000 0x2000 com.nvidia.CUDA (1.1.0) <4 1>
A: kextfind
The kextfind utility locates and prints information, or generates reports, about kernel extensions (KEXTs).
Examples
The following command searches /System/Library/Extensions for KEXTs that do not include the x86_64 architecture:
kextfind -not -arch x86_64
An extended search, to include the two paths most commonly used for installation:
kextfind -f /Library/Extensions -e -not -arch x86_64
Other directories
KEXTs can also be installed in ROM or inside an application bundle, but kextfind can not search recursively.
In the Leopard era there was a suggestion that KEXTs might be found in the /Library/StartupItems area. As SystemStarter is deprecated, so it may be reasonable to omit this area when using kextfind.
Manual pages
Users of OS X can view the current manual page in Terminal. In a web browser, go to:
*
*x-man-page://8/kextfind
In Mac OS X Developer Library the 2009 edition of the page is outdated.
Thanks
To ghoppe for raising awareness of kextfind.
A: Use the file command.
Example:
$ cd /System/Library/Extensions/KeyspanUSAdriver.kext/Contents/MacOS
$ file KeyspanUSAdriver
KeyspanUSAdriver: Mach-O universal binary with 2 architectures
KeyspanUSAdriver (for architecture x86_64): Mach-O 64-bit kext bundle x86_64
KeyspanUSAdriver (for architecture i386): Mach-O object i386
Notice that it has both x86_64 and i386 architectures.
A: *
*Run System Profiler
*Under Software, click on Extensions.
*Note the 64-Bit column in the list to the right.
Note: If you don't see this item, go to your View menu and make sure "Full Profile" is selected.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: How can I show the battery as a percentage on my iPod Touch? On the iPhone, to show the percentage of battery left, I can go into Settings > General > Usage and toggle "Battery Percentage" on.
My daughter's iPod touch doesn't have a Usage category. Is there a way on the iPod touch to display the battery percentage?
A: If jailbroken, SBSettings has a toggle for this.
A: No iPod Touches can show the battery percentage at the top of the screen (unless you jailbreak them). There are apps in the App Store that will show the battery percentage when you run them, but obviously not all the time.
There's a discussion thread here: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1013295
A: If you would like your your iPod to tell you your battery level as a percentage go to Settings > General > Accessibility > Triple-click Home, and select "Toggle VoiceOver". After you are done, go to your home screen and triple click the home button. VoiceOver will activate. Then tap the battery icon. VoiceOver will say the battery percentage aloud. To turn VoiceOver off, triple click the home button again.
This will only work on 3rd-gen or newer iPod touches and iPhone 3GS or newer.
A: If your charging an iPod Touch the lock screen will show the current battery percentage briefly when turned on while charging.
Connect working charger percentage should show on screen.
Press power button to lock
Press home or power button once
Watch for battery percentage to show under large current time.
Pretty lame would be nice if Apple could be consistent across all the iDevices for things like this including battery health and a calculator too.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Temporarily disabling the startup sound Is it possible to disable the startup sound on an iMac G5, or at least decrease its volume?
The obvious way to do this would be to put a script in the shutdown folder (OS X 10.4.11) that mutes the sound, then put one in the startup folder that reverses it. Unfortunately, I've been unable to find a "mute" script.
Edit: To clarify, how can you set the system to mute with a script?
A: There is a 3rd party StartupSound.PrefPane for this.
A: UPDATE: You're right. I am wrong. All you need is a script, and this is all you need to do:
set volume 0
-- 0 = mute, 7 = full volume
A: If you want to disable it temporarily (as the title suggests) it´s easiest to hold down the "mute" key (on the upper right of your keyboard) during the initial seconds of booting.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Disable “not ejected properly” warning (as only charging and not writing data)
Possible Duplicate:
Disable “the disk was not ejected properly” message
Per this blog post (not my blog post) how would you go about disabling the warning popup given that I know I'm not writing data so can't suffer any data loss?
I'd be satisfied with an answer that just disabled this warning across the board, but a more specific solution that could blacklist specific devices, or even better a "smart" way of only showing the popup if data has been written.
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How well does Google Docs work on the iPad? How well does Google Docs work on the iPad via Safari?
A: Google Docs has full view and edit functionality on the iPad (see here and here). To be honest though, it's kind of like trying to chop down a tree with a plastic spoon. It feels quite clumsy, it's fairly slow and it's not something you'd want to be a regular part of your work flow.
You're unable to select text, which means no copy or pasting. If you double-tap at the end of a sentence to get a period, you won't be rewarded with that particular mobile shortcut. There is no shift key; if you capitalize a word, all the text will be capitalized until you toggle the button off. Backspacing is equally slow, especially if you need to edit a large area of text. Tuaw
There are Apps like GoDocs that claim to make the experience better, but I haven't tried them myself.
If you don't have an iPad (and I'm presuming you haven't because you're asking this question!) you can get your Mac or PC to pretend to be an iPad in Safari and try it out yourself. Fire up Safari's preferences and tick the show develop menu under the Advanced Tab:
Then use the Develop Menu in your Menu Bar to set your User Agent to Mobile Safari 3.2.2 - iPad. Your browser will act just like it was an iPad, which lets you experience with Google Docs or any other sites you're curious about.
A: Current situation is much better than the one sketched in the answer of Tuaw although some essentials are still missing.
Basic editing works, including font types, headers, bullets, numbering. So you can definitely write a nice piece of text. Compared to the desktop browser experience however, many features are missing. Tabs can only be inserted with an external keyboard, tables cannot be created at all (viewing and editing the contents of an existing table is possible), multiple columns is impossible, etc. It is impossible to use the desktop version of Google Docs in a browser on an iPad.
So the Google Docs iPad app is useable but you will probably have to make certain changes on a laptop or desktop machine if your document is more than a simple note.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6091",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Increasing video memory on an older macbook I have a 2,1 macbook with 4GB ram of which 64mb are dedicated to the video card. Can I increase this to at least 512?
A: Generally, VRAM is soldered on/in somewhere. I suppose you could, if you had the know how, but the short answer is, no.
Edit: That is, VRAM is not (usually) taken from the pool of "available RAM," it's actually separate RAM entirely. And dedicated to the GPU, only.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6093",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Where's my free space gone on my MP3 player? I have a Sansa Fuze MP3 player, it's 4 GB.
I plug it in my Mac I have a capacity of 3,7 GB of which apparently 1,8 GB is in use.
Problem is I only have arround 120 MB of MP3s on it...
Who's stealing my free space ?
Here are DiskInventoryX screenshots. I have the same results with du and the terminal.
A: It might also be the trash -- I'm not sure how DiskInventoryX copes with trash directories on external drives. It might be worth emptying your trash while the drive is mounted.
A: The missing space is probably the operating system and other hidden system files.
A: Ok problem solved.
I repaired the disk using Disk Utility.app. Some blocks were not marked as free apparently!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6096",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
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