text
stringlengths 12
210k
| meta
dict |
|---|---|
Q: Emptying trash of the USB drive I have a USB drive plugged into my Mac. What I found was .Trashes was not emptied when the emptying trash (right click the Trash icon and run "Empty Trash") for the USB drive
What might be wrong? Is there any other way to empty trash the USB drive?
A: I don't know wether it's the best answer, but at least it's working answer.
Open the command line, cd to the USB volume (/Volumes/USB for my case), and type:
/bin/rm -rf ./Trashes/* works fine with me.
A: It's possible that there are files in some other user's trash. The .Trashes folder at the top of each volume has subfolders for each different user, by user ID number (e.g. user 502's trash is in .Trashes/502).
You can see if it for yourself using a command like this (replace VolumeName with your drive name):
ls -la /Volumes/VolumeName/.Trashes/
total 0
d-wx-wx-wt@ 3 _unknown _unknown 102 10 Feb 18:15 .
drwxrwxrwx@ 21 root wheel 782 13 Feb 14:17 ..
drwx------@ 35 _unknown _unknown 1190 13 Feb 14:18 502
Note: you might get a permissions error from this command, either because the .Trashes folder doesn't allow read access (solve this by adding sudo, e.g. sudo ls -ls ..., and entering your admin password when requested); and/or because of the privacy protections in macOS Mojave (10.14) and later (solve this by granting the Terminal access in System Preferences > Security & Privacy pane > Privacy tab > Full Disk Access category, see here for more details).
As you can see, on my USB disk .Trashes folder there's a sub foder called 502, owned by user ID 502 (for reference, my current user ID is 501). Since this user doesn't exist on my system, I see it as _unknown, and my user can't look inside of it, neither delete it. To look inside that folder we need to do it as administrator (i.e. use sudo).
If you are sure that you want to, you can delete everyone's trash by deleting the entire .Trashes folder with a command like:
sudo rm -R /Volumes/volumeName/.Trashes
Warning: as with anything involving sudo ("do as super user", i.e. system administrator) and rm -R, use this carefully. If you type it wrong, it could have ... unpleasant consequences.
A: 2 Solutions. 1 using Bash the other using Bash wrapped in AppleScript.
Solution #1
*
*Create a new AppleScript with /Applications/Utilities/AppleScript Editor
*Type the following code:
do shell script "rm -rf /Volumes/*/.Trashes/*" with administrator privileges
*Save the file to somewhere convenient and run it whenever you need to clear the USB Trash
*This can be executed by double-clicking on it
NOTE: This will empty the Trash for all connected volumes including your internal hard disk. If you have connected 5 USB drives and a Firewire hard disk, it will empty the trash for all of them.
Solution #2
*
*Fire up your favourite text editor (mine is nano)
*Paste the following code into your text editor and save the file
#!/bin/bash
sudo rm -rf /Volumes/*/.Trashes/*
*Save the file to somewhere convenient with the extension .sh and then make it executable with chmod +x {filename}.sh from Terminal
*Run that with ./{filename}.sh
NOTE: Same note as above. This is executable from Terminal.
A: I use this script AppleScript, save it as Application :
on open these_volumes
set t_id to user ID of (system info)
repeat with i in these_volumes
if (kind of (info for i without size)) is "Volume" then
set tPath to (POSIX path of i) & ".Trashes/" & t_id
do shell script "/bin/rm -Rf " & (quoted form of tPath) & "/*"
end if
end repeat
end open
Drag/Drop Volume(s) on the application.
This script removes the items from your trash (user ID) folder on the volume.
if other users use the volume this script will not delete the items from their trash folder, otherwise the script would need an administrator password to do that.
If you want to eject the volume after emptying the trash, use this script.
on open these_volumes
set t_id to user ID of (system info)
set volToEject to {}
repeat with i in these_volumes
if (kind of (info for i without size)) is "Volume" then
set tPath to (POSIX path of i) & ".Trashes/" & t_id
do shell script "/bin/rm -Rf " & (quoted form of tPath) & "/*"
set end of volToEject to contents of i
end if
end repeat
if volToEject is not {} then tell application "Finder" to eject volToEject
end open
A: Usual behavior:
When you delete something off a USB drive, it is moved to a .Trashes folder on that volume. When plugged into your computer, deleted items will appear in your trash bin with everything else.
When you unplug it, items that you've deleted from that drive will no longer show up in your trash UNTIL you plug it in again. Then, you can empty the trash. It will really delete them from that drive.
If that isn't happening for you, here's my suggestion:
*
*Select the drive in your Finder sidebar.
*Without selecting anything else, press cmd-i (or use menu item File → Get Info).
*Use the Sharing and Permissions section of that window to give Everyone the permissions to Read and Write.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6434",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "46"
} |
Q: Remove Specific Text from Multiple Descriptions I've recently upgraded to iPhoto '11 (couldn't resist the pricing on the new app store) and as I'm adding more meta-data to my library and generally organizing things (places, faces, etc... I hadn't upgraded since '08) I've noticed something odd in my photos. Every photo in my library has a description (though many are short), but it would appear that somehow the description of one of the photos has been appended to many.
I don't know if maybe I accidentally screwed up a batch change at some point in the past, or if the library upgrade somehow messed up, or what else may have happened. But what I need to do is fix these somehow.
Now, manually editing is something of a daunting task. Within a library of 21,248 photos, 18,858 of them have this additional text. The one thing I do have going for me is that it's a specific string. If there's a way to "remove this string from everywhere in the library without removing the rest of any given description" then that would be perfect.
Is there anything I can do like this? Maybe even manually editing a library file in a text editor? (Would that break anything else in iPhoto if its library was edited outside of the application, even while it's not running?) Does anybody have any ideas?
A: Consider using an AppleScript to perform this task. The following AppleScript will get you started:
tell application "iPhoto"
repeat with i from 1 to number of items in photos
set myPhoto to item i of photos
set comment of myPhoto to replaceText("find this", "replace with this", comment of myPhoto)
end repeat
end tell
-- replaceText from Bruce Phillips (http://brucep.net/2007/replace-text/)
on replaceText(find, replace, subject)
set prevTIDs to text item delimiters of AppleScript
set text item delimiters of AppleScript to find
set subject to text items of subject
set text item delimiters of AppleScript to replace
set subject to "" & subject
set text item delimiters of AppleScript to prevTIDs
return subject
end replaceText
To use this AppleScript, copy and paste it into a new AppleScript Editor document.
In this situation, you want to find and remove a specific piece of text. Modify the above AppleScript as follows:
*
*Change the "find this" segment and enter the text to find.
*Change the "replace with this" segment to be blank, "".
With these changes in place, save the document, and click Run in the toolbar. Depending on the number of photos, this AppleScript will take a long time; potentially hours.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6438",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I tell when Safari on iPad is using HTTPS Safari hides the protocol part of the URL (HTTP or HTTPS) in the address bar.
When I'm purchasing something on the Internet, I like to check that I'm using HTTPS when entering credit card details or entering a username and password.
I don't seem to be able to do this when using Safari on my iPad.
A: There should be a padlock before the page title at the top of the screen when you're on an https page.
A: On iPad 3 I touch the address bar to select then touch and hold to bring up the magnifying glass. Move your finger to the left all the way past the www. To reveal https:// or http://
A: you should see a locked lock near the type address, it shows that you are on https connection
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6443",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Insure MBP against theft/breakage I don't have home contents cover. Anyone know of a good, reliable insurer for a MBP?
I've read up on AppleCare but it doesn't include theft cover (as far as I can tell?)... I'd need this sort of cover as it's my major concern aside dropping it.
A: AppleCare definitely doesn't cover theft. In fact, AppleCare doesn't even cover accidental damage like dropping it, spilling liquid on it, etc.
There are two companies that I hear about from other Mac users where the stories have been positive. Mind you I've never used either company so have no idea how their service is or anything.
For accidental damage plus the normal manufacturer's defect coverage provided by AppleCare I've heard good things about Square Trade. This is the company I've heard the most good about, but they don't provide theft coverage. Square Trade is available only in the United States and Canada.
For accidental damage plus theft (not clear if it covers standard warranty-type damage) I've heard some good about Safeware. I haven't heard as much about them, but a lot of folks have theft coverage through their homeowner's insurance or their renter's insurance, so not at many people need a separate policy. Safeware is available only in the United States.
A: Do you have renters or home owners insurance? your broker may be able to track down a rider you can attach to those policies to provide specific coverage for a laptop. You may have to dance a bit if the device is used entirely for work at the work premises, or if it is work related for your home business.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6445",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to set a Monospace Font for Dashboard Sticky Notes Widget? I would like to use a monospaced font on the Sticky Notes in Apple's Dashboard widget.
However, only a few fonts can be selected, none of which is monospaced.
A: This is possible, because widgets are HTML, CSS, and JavaScript based. Here's how:
First, go to /Library/Widgets and find the Stickies one. Copy it to ~/Library/Widgets and name it myStickies (or something else).
Close the Stickies widget in Dashboard.
Now, go to the myStickies.wdgt version you copied and right-click it. Choose Show Package Contents.
In the new window that appears, right-click on the Stickies.js file and open it with your favorite JavaScript editor (if you don't have one, TextWrangler is great and free).
Now, use the editor to find the line var fontArray = new Array; (should be around line 407). You'll see below that line a bunch of lines similar to each other, saying something like fontArray["font name"] = 1,. You want to copy the last one of those (American Typewriter), and paste it back below itself. Then, change it so it looks like this: fontArray["Courier New"] = 8;
Save and close this file.
Now, open (from the same folder) Stickies.html in an HTML editor (TextWrangler works).
Find the line that says, <select id='font-popup' class='popup' onchange='fontchanged(this);'> (should be about line 40).
Below that, you'll find a bunch of lines similar to each other, each beginning with <option value. Copy the one for Gill Sans, and paste it below itself.
Edit it to say <option value ="Courier New">Courier New</option>.
Save and close this file.
Open Terminal and type killall Dock. This restarts Dashboard.
Now, double click the myStickies widget file you made. It will open in Dashboard. Follow the normal procedure of clicking the i and changing the font. You'll have a Courier option, and it will be that font. Yay!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6446",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: With iLife 11, considerations of slide shows I have to turn a big stack of images into one of those somewhat sappy slide shows with music.
Google shows various advice from various points in time. The last advice I found was iDVD. Is that the right path to launch off on?
A: Nope, not at all. iPhoto has great slideshow capabilities.
Lots of examples on YouTube.
No need to involve DVDs; or slow, aging software like iDVD.
A: iMovie has the "Ken Burns" effect (the actual name in the application!), designed specifically to do slow panning across images that dissolve into others, etc. It's very flexible and quite powerful.
iDVD is definitely not what you want. If nothing else, it hasn't actually been updated in years, and both iPhoto and iMovie significantly outshine it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6450",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Is it possible to hide all theme related packages from Cydia? Cydia is spammed by too many skinning tweaks and it is real hard to browse for more interesting applications.
Do you know a way to make Cydia hide the theme-related packages?
A: Cydia > Sections > Edit
Turn the toggle to "Off" next to the "Theme" sections.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6453",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why does my Exchange account work on my iPhone, but not Mail.app? I can set up my work Exchange account just fine on my iPhone, but I can't get it to work on Mail.app under Snow Leopard.
I have read some forums and understand that mobile devices use ActiveSync in order to access Exchange mail and I thought Snow Leopard introduced this feature to Mail, but I can't seem to get it working.
I have tried just about every combination of settings I can think of.
My iPhone asks for a domain, but I can't find a similar setting in Mail. I have tried entering my username as domain/username to no avail.
Has anyone had experience/similar problems with this?
A: Most likely because your corporate exchange server is running Microsoft Exchange Server 2003. Snow Leopard now only connects to Exchange 2007 (See http://www.apple.com/macosx/exchange/) whereas Leopard used to connect to Exchange 2003 using the OWA mechanism.
iPhone supports both Exchange 2003, 2007 and 2010 it seems (See iPhone User Guide , page 2);
A: I'd been struggling with the same issue for over a year. Finally I installed DavMail Gateway which is free.
It provides support for Exchange 2003 ( using OWA ). Using it you can even get support for LDAP directory services & even events in iCal!!
See page for details. Step-by-step instructions on:
Setting up DavMail on OS X
IMAP Mail setup
A: Have you tried everything listed in this Apple doc?
A: Try domain\username. I've never seen a forward slash work to indicate a domain. Then again, I've never tried. Do you get any error messages?
A: I've been having this problem with Exchange Server 2003 and Mail under Snow Leopard, and it's because the IMAP process on the server periodically dies. This affects the Mail app on the computer and not the iPhone because, as another answer here mentions, the iPhone uses ActiveSync, while the Mail app on the computer relies on IMAP if it's not Exchange 2007 or newer. Someone needs to log into the server and restart it.
One possible fix is here.
A: AFAIK: Snow Leopard supports Exchange via Web Services (new in Exchange 2007). All mobile devices use ActiveSync (which is basically XML over long lived HTTPS sessions).
Using IMAP to check email on Exchange is fine (if enabled on server) but you lose calendar and contacts sync.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6457",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: How do I get vim to work at 256 colors in iTerm? I just got a new iMac, and installed iTerm (0.10).
On my last laptop 256 color mode worked fine, but I'm having trouble getting this to work on my new Mac.
I copied over all the settings, set $TERM to xterm-256color, but no dice.
I changed my .vimrc to the absolute minimum to try this out:
set t_Co=256
syntax on
Tried multiple colorschemes, too.
A: OK, so...
I just started vim again, and colors where there. Since then I did make a changehowever, I installed XCode. This is the only thing I did change, so there must be something in there that fixes this.
Thanks for the effort!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6462",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: iphoto versus imovie - wanting to get features from both places Origami is very nice. However, detailed control is, in my case, very hard to live without. I am setting up a 10-minute slide show. I want to use several pieces of audio cued to different points in the show. I want to have some sections, and origama shuffles my pictures across the section boundaries. Even text slides don't clue it in that this might be a good place not to shuffle across. Some of my consumers find the plain 'Ken Burns' transition in imovie positively sea-sickness-inducing.
I can predict that the answer will be that, inside iphoto, I'm in the traditional 'Steve Jobs is the reincarnation of Henry Ford' situation, and I won't be finding any way to exercise detailed control. So, can anyone give me a running start on how to introduce other transition effects to imovie?
A: Versions of iMovie after iMovie HD don't support plugins and extra effects.
You're looking for something more along the lines of Apple Final Cut Express ($170) or Adobe Premiere Elements ($80).
Both let you make photo slideshows with titles, effects, transitions, and music; and both let you install free and paid plugins for more.
Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6466",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Synchronizing Gmail Contacts to my Mac How do I sync GMail contacts into my Mac?
A: If you are using Mac OS X 10.5 or later, it's just a matter of enabling in in your Address Book:
*
*Address Book --> Preferences --> Accounts --> Synchronize with Google
A: On most modern Macs (Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard) you simply open the Address Book (-,), click on Accounts tab, and then under the left column, select "On My Mac (Local)".
Then click on the "Synchronize with Google" checkbox and enter your Google credentials, and voila! note that synchronising may have deleterious effects because of inherent problems with most sync systems. To be safe, I would back up either (or both) your Gmail and Address Book contants before proceeding.
To back-up your Address Book contacts go to File menu > Export… > Address Book Archive…
Your Gmail contacts can be backed up in this way.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6467",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is it really true that the iPhone doesn't have turn-by-turn navigation? I'm looking into getting a new Verizon smartphone. I like many things about the iPhone, but I'm concerned that I'll have to give up a feature I really like about my current phone--turn-by-turn navigation. According to this skattertech chart, the iPhone lacks this feature. Is there really not an "app for that"? (And if not, why? The phone has GPS, so what gives?)
A: There are plenty of apps for that, especially in the US (where I'm not). There are the apps that mankoff suggests (I use TomTom here in NZ), but I think he left out the best value option: MotionX GPS Drive - they actually do a bunch of different applications, and all great value. Check them out.
BTW, what phone are you using at the moment? What app are you most familiar with?
A: There is an app for that. Look in the App Store. I think the going rate for the GPS apps (Navigon, TomTom, etc.) is about $50 USD.
The built-in Google Maps app does have turn-by-turn (it lists the turns you need to take), but it does not have a voice, and it does not recognize when you have deviated from the suggested route and then re-program itself.
A: The thing is that the built-in Maps app uses Google Maps for the maps, and the Google Maps license doesn't allow a third-party to implement voice navigation using it.
So, Apple's Maps isn't allowed to implement voice navigation, but any other GPS software provider can offer the feature along with their own maps.
Here is a nice review of some of the GPS software available for the iPhone: http://www.macworld.com/article/156720/2011/01/gps.html
Also, that situation could change, since Apple purchased a maps company a few years ago.
A: The $50+ GPS apps usually include the maps in the download while the free/cheap ones download pieces of the map as required. This is an issue if you are going to drive in areas with poor data coverage. It's not a happy moment when your GSP doesn't have the necessary map section nd there's no reception to get it. On the other hand, apps like TomTom (which I use) are huge (1.2GB) since they include the map so it takes up a pretty big chunk of space on your phone.
Waze is a pretty fun app but is intended to help with local driving more than trip-based navigation. Map accuracy is crowd-sourced so the quality is wildly variable and the routing software isn't designed for long-trips. But it's a lot of fun to use.
Live traffic usually requires a fee but it varies from product to product.
All the apps suck your battery dry at an alarming rate. Power in the car is an absolute necessity.
A: Yes its true no turn by turn navigation from Apple on the iPhone, etc. However, there are many good free solutions out there and paid as well. One free solution that work currently best for local area navigation is the free Waze gps app. Works good for local under 1 hour trips and provides free traffic re routing too. Has an interesting community aka social networking aspect to it as well. Just note that with this app you are best off copying address from the maps app to Waze to best begin navigation.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6472",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Peripherals with Great Mac Compatibility What peripherals do you use on your Mac that really work well? It seems like most things (especially mice and keyboards) don't work all that well, even if they claim compatibility. I'm looking for things that work as well on a Mac as they do on a PC.
So, community, what Mac peripherals do you use that 'just work', and work all the way?
Please post answers as wiki, as I'm not looking for a particular piece of hardware.
A: Razer Mice
Many of their mice are fully Mac-compatible (I use the Naga). Macro running and recording works perfectly, and they can be very complex (if you want). These are the only mice I've seen that work like this on a Mac.
A: I'd like to know your background for the statement that "most things (especially mice and keyboards) don't work all that well"
In the 10+ years that I've been using Macs compatibility has been better than on PC. Recently this has been excellent.
For cameras and printers (Epsom and Canon) I've never had to install drives for them to work with the OS, iPhoto or Image Capture. Recently Image Capture has identified my old scanner and works better than Canon's own software at grabbing information from that.
The only peripherals I've had to install install software for are mice that have greater than the default number of buttons or esoteric functions (like wacom tablets). And even then the basic functions worked out of the box.
In fact, these days, if a peripheral doesn't work out of the box on my Macs, then I get more than a bit worried that it'll cause me grief down the road - normally at the next OS update.
A: Logitech Mice
I have been very happy with high-end Logitech mice. In particular the VX.
A: Matias Keyboards
Specifically the Tactile Pro. Designed to the same specs as the best keyboard Apple ever made. Worth ever penny.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6479",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I upgrade my jailbroken and unlocked iPhone 3GS to 4.2? I have an iPhone 3GS running on 4.0.1 and I want to upgrade it to 4.2 with my Mac. How can I go about doing this?
*
*Current Version: 4.0.1 (8A306)
*Model: MB7...
*Modem Firmware: 05.13.04
A: There is nothing special to upgrading when jailbroken or not. You must use the official upgrade path which means losing unlock and jailbreak, and then re-jailbreak and re-unlock if you want and if it is possible with the new firmware. So...
*
*Plug it in
*Follow the prompts in iTunes
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6485",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Is iTunes the only way to interface with an iPhone on a PC? I'm generally not a fan of iTunes for storing/listening to music (I use MediaMonkey). Is iTunes required for syncing between an iPhone and a PC?
A: I know of no other solution to sync the handheld device.
If you want to get files on and off the device, you may be able to find tools/apps to help you. I've had to resort to a tool to get some audio and video content off of an iPod once that was loaded on someone else's machine; when you associate an iPod with a new machine, iTunes really wants to zap the contents, and I assume that may also be true with iPhone.
Also, the way some of that content is stored on the device may not be what you'd expect (files in a file system), it's more like cryptically named blocks of data in a database. But there are tools that can help you deal with the problem.
A: I don't have an iPhone, but an app I stand by is Floola. It works wonders for my iPod, I don't need iTunes for it at all.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6487",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Mail.app notification filtering Is it possible to disable notification generated by Mail.app for a certain set of folders?
For e.g. if have Inbox and Inbox > fol1 & Inbox > fol2, I want notification from Inbox and fol1 only.
Would this be possible with growl somehow?
A: You should be able to do this by setting up Rules in Mail.app that filter on the criteria you desire and then run an AppleScript that triggers a Growl notification. Rules are setup in Mail.app under Preferences…->Rules.
Growl can be called from AppleScript as shown here.
A: Use Smart Mailboxes to filter the mailboxes viewable,
http://www.cultofmac.com/185867/only-get-notifications-for-a-specific-mailbox-in-mountain-lion-os-x-tips/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6488",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can anyone recommend an app for creating flowcharts and diagrams? I'm seeking a Mac app for creating basic flowcharts and similar diagrams.
Google has been no help; I've followed dozens of links to apps that either don't exist anymore, I can't find any real reviews of, or that won't run on OS X 10.6.6.
What I'd really like:
*
*A simple and clean interface
*Basic shapes
*Automated connectors that stay linked as you move shapes around
*Inexpensive, preferably under $30 but definitely under $50
What I'm not looking for:
*
*Hundreds of shapes
*Default styles that have shadows and textures and such that I have to keep removing
*Dozens of amazing features that allow you to automatically map databases and draw UML diagrams from code and such (I'm looking at you, Visio) that I have to constantly navigate around to make a few basic diagrams
*A mind-mapping app with all the features such a thing entails, one that happens to also let you make basic diagrams
*A full-fledged drawing app where, once again, I have to maneuver around a whole bunch of features and options to get to the basic functions I need. (I have Illustrator, I love Illustrator, but it's crap for basic flowcharts and other simple diagrams.)
I wouldn't actually use it for flowcharts, but rather basic similar diagrams to show data flow between apps, information flow in a company or other places, that kind of thing.
I recently found out that the drawing portion of Google Docs actually does a pretty good job with the types of diagrams I need to create, but the UI is pretty poor and it obviously requires a constant net connection.
A: For free online diagramming there's diagrams.net, which I am a developer on. It supports the automatic connection and dragging of components you're looking for. Also, it's free (and open source), which meets your under $30 requirement.
There is also a Desktop version available.
A: I know this is an older thread, but I would like to throw in my $.02 (since things have changed some since this was posted). Lucid Chart for Google Apps is a viable solution. It is free for basic diagramming, and there are very reasonable pricing for more advanced features. It even has the capability to open (and save) Visio documents. It is integrated with Google Drive (for personal OR Apps Domains) and is real-time collaborative. Google Docs, of course, has a Drawing tool, but Lucid expands on it with some drag-n-drop features and other more advanced tools you would expect from fat-client apps. more information can be found on their website but if you search in the Chrome Web Store, you will find it and can install it directly from there. At that point it is as simple as logging into Google Drive and clicking Create and selecting Lucid Chart as the document type.
A: Apple's Keynote may primarily be for presentations, but its diagramming tools also hit all your requirements: simple interface; polygons of arbitrary number of sides; connection lines (select two shapes, right click, "Add Connection Line"); cost of USD$20.
As a bonus, you'll have great presentation software to show off your cool new diagrams.
A: Take a look at the free and simple to use yEd, I believe this would fit about right for your 2 yr old question :)
A: If you can stretch your budget, get OmniGraffle for Mac. At $149, it's pricier than you'd like (do you possibly qualify for the $89.99 edu price?), but it's exactly what you're looking for.
On the lower end there's Mindcad Incubator for $10.99, but I haven't tried it myself and I'm not sure it does everything you want.
A: Would MindNode fit what you're looking for?
There's a free version and and $20 version available. They're both on the Mac App Store.
A: I love Gliffy. It's free and very user-friendly.
A: You also have several proposals from another SO thread here.
OmniGraffle won the competition but the other links are quite interesting and could fit your needs.
A: Give Xmind a try. It's Java, so expect a Java applications… if you know what that means.
But given that you haven't found OmniGraffle very "attractive" for you, you might want to give it a try.
A: There is new diagramming tool Diagrammix in the Mac App Store. Simple and beautiful.
A: I see you that you need to draw flowchart with basic shapes and grids. I would recommend a web based solution since you are not always using it. But if you are drawing flowcharts frequently I suggest you to get an flowchart software like Creately. There is a mac version available and you can try for free
*
*Creately has an improved interface and I can assure you that it is very user friendly powerful and simple.
*Yes, Creately supports 1000's shapes since there are more than 50 diagrams types made available to use. And you can customize to use the ones you want to use frequently as well.
*Creately has what you call (smart connectors) that can automatically connect shapes by identifying the position of the shape and the connector type it requires.
*You can edit change / add different styles and improve your diagrams with creately as you want.
*Its a fully fledged diagram designing application made for diagramming mainly focused on the design and use. It has specific features for each diagram type.
*Perfection is the word for the diagrams you design from creately. Further more there are many templates and examples to be used to create instant diagrams.
*Price is under 50$ as you mentioned and the whole package is worth it. You can always try be for you buy.
A: You can take a look at MyDraw (https://www.mydraw.com), which has versions for Mac and Windows. It costs 69USD and is in your budget. MyDraw has thousands of shapes for different diagramming scenarios (flowcharts, OrgCharts, UML, mindmaps etc.) and is packed with enterprise features like:
*
*Import and export to Microsoft Visio.
*Highly interactive, fast and modern User Interface that is Visio like.
*Support for embedding barcodes (and soon charts, gauges and tables) in drawings.
*Export to vector formats like SVG, PDF, WMF and DXF (Autocad).
*Export to raster formats like BMP, PNG, JPEG and other.
Disclosure: I work for Nevron
A: The Google Docs suite of tools now has a diagramming tool that lets you create flowcharts. While not as feature rich as something like OmniGraffle, it does cover all your requirements: simple & clean interface, basic shapes (and not an overabundance of shapes), automatic connectors with elasticity, and it meets your price point at free.
Certainly can't hurt to try it out before you drop $100 on the Mac Daddy of diagramming programs for Mac.
Edit: just noticed your last paragraph in your question. Not much I can do about the UI, but I will mention that offline support is about to make a return via Chrome.
A: I found another one. Seems to meet all your prerequisites.
Shapes
Shapes is a simple, elegant Graphing and Diagramming app for Mac OS X Snow Leopard. Shapes gives you all of the most important features you need in a Diagramming tool without all the extra cruft, and without breaking the bank.
A: Dia is pretty useful. From the description: "Dia is a program to draw structured diagrams". Available for Linux, Windows, OS X.
A: GraphViz
The link above is to a GUI wrapper to the command line utility. With GraphViz, layout is automated, so you don't get to choose exactly where the nodes end up, although you can provide hints and have some limited control.
Regarding your other points:
*
*It is CLI, so I think that counts as a simple and clean interface
*Basic shapes are provided
*Connectors are automated and will stay linked (although you can't move shapes with a mouse).
*Free.
A: I'm late to the party, but NeoOffice's drawing tool meets your four criteria.
A: How about pencil? This is for fast prototyping.
A: iPlotz
iPlotz allows you to rapidly create clickable, navigable mockups and wireframes for prototyping websites and software applications.
Create a project, add wireframe pages with design components and discuss your creations with others.
A: IHMC CmapTools is very good. You have to register for it but it is free to use and can run on all major OSes.
A: Your best solution is probably Inspiration. There's a free trial version available you can try out.
A: Since what you're asking for is an extremely simple to use program without advanced features and lots of shapes, I suggest Delinieato, available through the Mac App store. Delineato gets ideas out of your head and onto the screen with a few clicks. It includes specifically the features you asked for, simple shapes, easy to use connectors, connectors that flow with the shapes as you move them around the screen. Delineato also has an infinite sized canvas, allowing you to shift things around and expand ideas as neccessary.
Best of all, it's under $10 on the App Store for the full version.
A: Well, I read all the posts and tried several of these apps, as I was also looking for a flowchart tool.
Go for Pencil (thanks Sangcheol Choi) It's amazing yet simple. Yes, it has a lot of shapes, but it also has a very intuitive search tool, and the MEANING of each of them, which many other apps don't have.... Sometimes, that's very useful, at least for people who do not deal with flowcharts every day, so we are not sure about the meaning of some less used shapes....
A: Lovely Charts:
A diagramming application that allows you to create professional looking diagrams of all kinds, such as flowcharts, sitemaps, business processes, organisation charts, wireframes and many more....
A cross-platform desktop application that is available for Linux, Mac & Windows, as well as an online edition & iPad edition compliments its versatility.
This is a Premium application and the price varies depending upon which version who choose to purchase.
A: I'm really liking Gliffy. I'm a long-time user of Graffle and have tried a number of the other suggestions on this page. Graffle is great except for one crucial, deal-killing problem - it's orthogonal connecting line algorithm is terrible. I have to manually redraw lines almost anytime I move anything.
Gliffy is completely intuitive - everything pretty much does what I expect it to, and there are nice keyboard shortcuts for most things. I'd like to see symmetrical resizing (hold down option like in Graffle) so I don't have to re-center every time I resize a box, but that's a niggle.
The one feature I'd really like that none of these programs seems to have is the ability to expand or collapse a process block to reveal the flowchart of what's in the box. MacFlow under Mac OS9 used to do this, and it was wonderful: double-click a box and a new page would open, where you could flowchart the "nested" process. Close that window and the chart is hidden, but still there underneath whenever needed. Boxes with nested flowcharts had a bold border around them to let you know.
A: The ProcessOn diagram platform is completely free, and includes a drawing application that is actually fairly useable for creating diagrams and flowcharts at the simpler end of the scale.
A: Try Describio (https://www.describio.com). You can create runnable flowcharts using either the user interface or JavaScript (if you know how to code). You can also use user inputs to help control the flow. It's a more-advanced tool, but it's very useful for creating working prototypes. Check it out!
A: Why does nobody mention the excellent diagramming app - ConceptDraw?
If you're familiar with Microsoft Visio, this one is absolutely your choice. The only one problem is that it's more expensive than what you expect.
Hope you can have a trial and consider my recommendation.
A: You can actually do a lot of flowcharting stuff with Google Docs too. It depends on whether you're willing to pay for something or not. There's a good mix of both paid and free flowcharting software on Mac here.
A: You can try Edraw Flowchart for Mac. It's an all-purpose diagram software with all flowcharting shapes. I suggest it to you because I found it one of the greatest diagramming tools after I tried some. It has a simple and elegant interface that you will feel comfortable to work on. It also includes templates that you can choose from. If you are a student, you just pay half price. These are its main features:
*
*Automatic connection.
*Basic shapes.
*Vector Drawing
*Templates and Examples.
*Export to PDF, JPEG, PNG, Word, PPT, Html, PS, Visio, etc.
*Cloud collaboration.
*Cross-platform
*Support 260+ kinds of diagrams.
*Add hyperlink, attachment, note and comment.
*Support large flowchart and multiple pages drawing.
A: Try yEd, it's free and very good.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6490",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "125"
} |
Q: Transfer video from iPhone to Mac without cable? I'm at my job and I have no cable, so connecting my iPhone with my computer is not possible.
I have tried emailing the video, but the iPhone is compressing the video. It is not jailbroken.
Is it possible to transfer the original video?
A: Emailing full resolution photos or videos
On your iPhone open your camera roll and navigate to the overview screen where all your recent captures are shown via small square icons. Press and hold on the icon for the video you wish to move to your computer and select copy from the pop-up menu that appears.
Still on your iPhone open Mail and create a new message. In the body of the message, press and hold the cursor, and select paste from the pop-up menu. The message you send will now have the full, unadulterated video attached which you can download on your desktop.
Note: on my iPhone 4 I created a 4 second clip with very little motion and it used 6 MB. You may hit your attachment limit very quickly depending on length and resolution.
A: Use the Dropbox app. This lets you sync a large video wirelessly without worrying about file-size limits imposed by other messaging techniques (like email).
A: You can transfer video from iPhone to Mac in 3 different ways:
1. transfer over cloud servers
2. transfer over LAN
3. transfer over WiFi
This iPhone file manager app can help you transfer files from iPhone to Mac by using above 3 ways easily: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ifile-pocket/id690442933?mt=8
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6499",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do split panes in Terminal work? I tried to open a split pane to run another command but instead it displays the same in both panes and I can only interact with one of them. I thought it would split the view so I could use the two panes independently like two windows.
I have the Visor installed but I don't think it would interfere.
Terminal - version 2.1.1
Visor custom (84d1873) based on 1.5
A: It's meant to be like that. See this Super User answer:
You're misinterpreting the feature. It's not meant for two separate
terminals. It's intended to allow a
user to see two different view points
in the same terminal. For instance, if
you have 3000 files in a directory,
and you perform an ls command, that
output is going to be very long.
If you use the split pane, you can
scroll through that long output
without having to flip back and forth,
possibly losing your place along the
way.
If you want two terminals, use tabs,
or separate windows.
I would add that, for two separate terminals, you can use separate tabs as well.
A: You should really have a look at screen (that´s an already installed command line tool, not a separate application), which gives you the ability to split your Terminal into two (or more) separate ones. I use that with Visor and it works like a charm. Have a look around here, there are quite a few tips on how to use "screen" on a Mac.
A: Also don't over look tmux. Its like screen but more features I believe.
A: iTerm 2 supports split panes with independent shells in each pane, not one linked shell.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6504",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "52"
} |
Q: Switching two MacBook motherboards I have two similar MacBooks that are off by one revision:
*
*Black: Model 2,1 --- 2.16 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo, 2GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
*White: Model 3,1 --- 2.2 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo, 1GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
I want to upgrade my Black macbook (my primary laptop) with 4GB of RAM but model 2,1 can only make use of around 3GB (3,1 can take 4GB).
So what I want to do is swap the motherboards of each laptop. That way they both get an upgrade -- the Black Macbook moves up to 4GB and the white moves up to 2GB.
Is doing a motherboard swap on my own feasible? I've built my own desktops in the past and I'm not worried about what is what and what goes where. I'm just wondering about the difficulty of the job and/or if there's something I don't know about that would prevent this from working at all.
Oh yeah and also, from an aesthetic perspective I like the black one much more and don't want to just make the white one my primary laptop. It looks pretty worn and the girlfriend put some stickers on it, etc.
A: You can check out the directions on iFixit here.
There are a lot of steps, but none of it is really rocket science. They explain it in detail.
My bigger question would be whether the two boards are compatible.
Based on the specs for each one (2,1 / 3,1), the main differences are (respectively):
*
*Processor: TS7400 / TS7500
*Video Card (integrated): Intel GMA 950 / IntelGMA X3100
*VRAM: 64MB / 144MB
I'm not sure how these effect logic board compatibility, but I'd be careful.
Also worth noting that the white 3,1 actually supports 6GB of memory (unofficially). Get it here.
Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6507",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I tell what processes are driving I/O loads? Something is driving a lot of Disk I/O on my system lately. I can see in ActivityMonitor that there are huge volumes of reads and writes every second. But none of the "normal" suspects are active when this is happening. (i.e. it's not time machine.) and I have plenty of free memory (800MB to 1.3GB out of 6GB total) so it shouldn't be paging. I don't see any apps in top that are blocked on I/O when this starts. (once it's going then I see things start to pile up... but everything I see in there appears to be victim.)
What tools can I use to get a sense for what process is causing the disk io?
I think it started with 10.6.6. :( I don't recall ever hitting this with 10.6.5.
A: Try sudo iosnoop; it shows I/O as it happens, including the process ID and process name doing the I/O, as well as data size, file path, etc. There are options to restrict it to only show a certain device, mount point, process, etc.
A: On *nix systems lsof is used for checking to see what app has what file open. It's a good starting point for digging around.
Type man lsof at the commend line to see if its description sounds useful.
Also, open the "console" app, or tail -f some of the /var/log files that show a lot of activity, and see if something is broken or complaining.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6508",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Use internal speakers with others plugged into headphones jack I have a set of surround speakers, connected to my iMac through the headphone jack. I use a switch to control what goes to the speaker set (iMac, iPod, or MacBook/aux). So that I don't have to be constantly unplugging and replugging, I leave the audio cable in the iMac's audio port. This means that when I'm listening to something from another source, I can't hear anything from the iMac unless I unplug the cable.
Is there a way to force sound to come out of the internal speakers, even if there's something in the audio out port?
A: There is a way to do this but it is difficult and probably not for every user. What happened is Apple does have a "hardware" switch built in, which sends a signal to disable/enable the internal speaker. Because Windows or other OS simply doesn't have such function built in, it will just be a weird signal that does nothing.
Option 1
I cannot disable this signal, it probably requires some highly skilled kext modifier, but I found a way to reset the internal speaker after it gets disabled. It will not stick after a reboot, so you have to do it every time after the booting.
*
*Backup your AppleHDA.kext in /System/Library/Extensions/
*Show package content of this file, go to Contents/Plugins then remove AppleHDAHALPlugIn.bundle.
*Reload the kext by running
sudo kextunload /System/Library/Extensions/AppleHDA.kext
sudo kextload /System/Library/Extensions/AppleHDA.kext
ps aux | grep 'coreaudio[d]' | awk '{print $2}' | xargs sudo kill
*Recover the backup file AppleHDA.kext (or your computer won't boot next time you reboot).
Note, if you unplug the headphone, it will still show in your audio device panel. Tested working on a retina iMac. Not working on a retina Macbook (no audio afterward).
Option 2
I have a better way to do this (this method no longer works for 10.12.x+).
*
*Download the following files:
https://mega.co.nz/#!js4gmZbI!xNFCxGT5zPYCS8RLtxk4xZQxNk0oP2sH8RjXbBqgmE0
https://mega.co.nz/#!ulw13BzD!Y1k564bTSxZrePpPL-si5h65XULwnYeEMwH-l0lSLfI
*Open up the first download, and drag the second download into it. It will take 10 minutes to install. Then restart your system.
You will not have line out and internal speakers both in your sound panel at all time, even when your headphone is not plugged in.
Tested on macOS 10.11, iMac Retina and not working on MacBook Pro Retina.
A: Pretty sure it can't be done with the built-in headphone jack. What you could try is getting a USB soundcard (one example, but there are lots out there for $20 or so) to plug your headphones into. That should give you two options in the sound preferences.
PS, if you option-click the speaker icon in the menu bar, you get a quicker way to swap inputs/outputs than going to the sound preference pane every time.
A: Just found a solution that works or me - I use an HDTV as an additional monitor, and with headphones plugged in there I can route the audio to the external monitor. I can now switch between iMac speakers and headphones without unplugging the headphones.
A: I have been trying to get this to work. After moving from my Mac Pro which has speakers and headphones plugged in and I simple switched between them (and even internal speakers) to a new iMac where I have to keep unplugging the headphones to get sound through the iMac speakers. What I'm about to order is a simple USB Sound Card dongle. Small thing that gives an audio jack via a usb, this should then allow me to alt+click the volume icon and switch between built in and headphones as it will see them as separate outputs.
A: There's no supported way to override the switch that deactivates the internal speakers when a headphone jack is detected on 2011 through 2015 era hardware. The answer on modifying kernel extensions is amazing though if you like experimenting.
The switch that detects whether a 3.5mm headphone jack or mini-toslink is inserted removes the internal speaker from the sound control panel. (Probably at a low enough level that the OS itself cannot over-ride this control.)
Since there isn't a widely known firmware hack, OS hack or hidden preference to disable this detection, you will need to add a USB to headphone device to avoid losing your internal speaker option while a headphone is plugged in.
*
*Griffin iMic
As long as you don't plug into the Apple port, you can switch amongst the internal and all other output sources using the normal tools (or whatever third party software option you prefer)
A: I use Boot Camp to run Windows 7 on my iMac 27" mid-2011. When in the Windows mode I have the choice of internal speakers or headphone jack in my audio output, even although I the headphones permanently plugged into the headphone jack. So Windows have it solved how come Mac can't - after all it's all the same hardware!
A: You can upgrade to a more recent Mac model. Later Macs that come with the Apple T2 chip treat the headphone jack and the internal speakers as separate devices. For a list of Macs with T2 chip, see the support article “Mac models with the Apple T2 Security Chip.”
Macs with M1 chip can also use the 3.5mm headphone jack and built-in speakers simultaneously.
A: You can change the audio (output and input) directly on the Sounds Preference panel. There's an output tab that includes a selector for selecting the output.
If you want something a bit more convenient I used a free program called Audio Switcher from Spike Software. It sits in the task tray and offers quick access to the same settings you see in the Sound Preferences pane.
A: A faster way to do what @rwr suggested is to option click on the audio icon in the menu bar and select Internal Speakers under Output.
A: The switch that is used is hardware based, so no way to override it except with an audio USB device, or: bluetooth speakers!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6510",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "41"
} |
Q: Windows 7 reports mDNSResponse.exe caused a problem with Bonjour Windows 7 Action Ceenter reports:
Address a problem with Bonjour
Bonjour has stopped working properly.
The name of the file that caused this
problem is mDNSResponse.exe.
For information about possible
solutions to this problem, go online
to the following Knowledge Base (KB)
article:
Click to go online to the Apple Inc. website for the KB article
When clicked, the browser opens to the Bonjour Print Services for Windows download page.
One could infer this means "Download and reinstall Bonjour Print Services for Windows." Is that what we are supposed to do?
All messages in the Event Viewer where the source is Bonjour Service are of severity Informational. They alternate between Service Started and Service Stopped(0). My guess is the (0) is the return value.
I am asking here rather than some other stack because the malfunctioning software is a Windows executable authored and controlled by Apple. When an application experiences a problem, it is the application which has the first responsibility for diagnosing and reporting the problem. The operating system is responsible for faithfully executing the services the application requests, but it is unreasonable to expect the operating system to explain to a user why exactly an application ended abnormally. Thus, this is an Apple issue, not a Windows issue.
After reinstallation of Bonjour, the problem was no longer reported. However, that does not mean the reinstallation was fix; it could be that the problem is transient.
A: I cleared the problem on my system by reinstalling Bonjour.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6514",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is it safe to put ipad baseband 06.15.00 on iPhone 3G in order to unlock it when using iOS 4.2.1? I am asking this because I observed that there were some reports regarding problems with baseband 06.15.00 on iPhone 3G like no GMS connection or poor or no GPS functionality.
From my knowlege Redsn0w is the tool to do this.
A: I believe the iPhone 3G and the iPad 3G use very different baseband processors and putting the firmware from one on the other, if possible, would probably brick it. It's akin to trying to put the BIOS for a Toshiba computer onto a Dell.
Then again, I'm not entirely sure on this one.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6519",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How do I automate a backup of new MobileMe calendar data The new MobileMe iCal data lives in the cloud, and the data on your computer is actually a cache. This support article from Apple explains how to backup calendar data by exporting to an .ics file. I would like to automate that process via AppleScript, Automator or any other method (paid software is fine).
The sticking point with AppleScript is selecting the calendar on the left hand column. In Automator I don't think the available actions support this level of automation.
A: Automator does support selecting a Calendar. Using the Filter or Find actions, you can Find (Calendar) Where: and then (Title) (Contains): ____
A: I was going to suggest using MobileMe's backup but:
Unlike the previous version of MobileMe Calendar, with the new MobileMe Calendar, the master copy of your calendar data exists in the cloud (on the MobileMe severs). Various calendar clients (such as iCal on Mac OS X and the Calendar app on iOS devices) view a locally-cached copy of the data that is updated whenever a change is made on the server.
So it's a bit tricky! If you comfortable setting AppleScript or Automator to download a file AND you're comfortable making your calendar publicly accessible (assuming someone finds out your public url), you could do this:
Backing up from me.com/calendar
Go to me.com.
Publicly share a calendar.
Copy the URL (web address) from that shared calendar and paste it to the address field in you browser. Do not press Enter or Return yet.
As shown in the example below, change "webcal" to "http":
Example URL from shared calendar:
webcal://www.me.com/ca/sharesubscribe/1.276...
Change to:
http://www.me.com/ca/sharesubscribe/1.276... From MobileMe Help
and use that url as your regular download source. I would use Automator and Get Specified URLS and then Download URLS Actions as a starting point.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6521",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Mac Apps Store wont download any apps on computer I have successfully downloaded apps on a laptop, but when trying to download on a desktop mac, whenever i click install, it says 'put password for billing info', as it would normally. I do so, click enter, and nothing happens. No error message, nothing.
A: Try signing out of your iTunes account then signing back in.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6524",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Editing iPhoto-specific metadata
Perpetua:2011-01-16 ashley$ mdls IMAG0107.jpg
...
kMDItemComment = "Cat with is tongue out."
So, here's my question. xattr can be used to modify some attributes. For example:
Perpetua:2011-01-16 ashley$ xattr -l IMAG0107.jpg
com.apple.metadata:kMDItemFinderComment:
00000000 62 70 6C 69 73 74 30 30 50 08 00 00 00 00 00 00 |bplist00P.......|
00000010 01 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 |................|
00000020 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 09 |..........|
0000002a
Perpetua:2011-01-16 ashley$
But this isn't the attribute I want to edit. I imagine this is because kMDItemComment is an iPhoto-specific piece of metadata. My question would be, how do I go about editing it?
A: com.apple.metadata:kMDItemFinderComment is in binary property list format. Using xattr -p -l -x | tail +2 gives you just the hex dump of the attribute. You can then pipe that into xxd -r to turn that back into a binary file.
From there you can open that file in Apple's Property List Editor, assuming you have the Developer Tools installed. You can then edit the property visually.
You should then be able to reapply the edited value to the file using xxd -p -x and xattr -w -x.
This is all much more messy than one really wants for a single property that's just a string.
A: One can do this in the "Mac" way (by AppleScript), using the following script setFinderComment.scpt
#!/usr/bin/osascript
on run argv
set filePath to POSIX file (item 1 of argv)
set fileComment to item 2 of argv
set theFile to filePath as alias
tell application "Finder" to set comment of theFile to fileComment
end run
Then you make it executable chmod a+x setFinderComment.scpt and use as
setFinderComment.scpt filename comment
A: The OpenMeta project is using the extended attributes to store their tags. The source code is available at https://code.google.com/p/openmeta/. Part of that project are open meta command line tools.
This command line tool does operate on pre-defined set of attributes used by OpenMeta, but as it is open source, it can be easily adapted to allow additional command line setting for setting/reading other extended attribute.
Not direct solution, but a path to a solution ?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6525",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I make an iMovie 11 project into a DVD without iDVD? I'd like to do a dry run of how a slideshow in imovie-11 is doing to come out when I run it for real, if I decide that 'for real' means 'playing a DVD on a DVD Player with a projector.'
Other answers here have dissed idvd as an obsolete item, and I am noting that my 9:24 movie has idvd sitting there spinning a cursor for a very, very, long time. So I have other choices?
A: Apple has just issued an update to iDVD to make it more stable, and help with importing from iPhoto. With any luck, it will solve this. Get it through Software Update, or from here.
A: Even though iDvd is a bit of a mothballed application, you might be able to get around your hassles with one of these workarounds (iDVD was always a little buggy transferring from iMovie to iDVD anyway).
*
*Try exporting your slideshow from iMovie using the default settings of Share -> 'Export Movie using Quicktime', then import that .mov or .dv file into DVD by dragging and dropping it into iDVD. If you're confident export the movie using 'Export Movie using Quicktime' with the following settings:
For best results, in the QuickTime export settings, choose NTSC-DV with a frame rate of 29.97 or PAL-DV with a frame rate of 25. Choose No Compression for audio and set the rate to 48 kHz (here)
*If you still don't have any luck, use the 'Save as Disk Image' option in iDVD, and then use Disk Utility to burn that image to a DVD (drag the disk image into Disk Utility, click on it and choose burn). Leave a comment if you'd like more detailed instructions on how to do this.
*If that doesn't work use iDVD's built in Slideshow function. The options are pretty sparse compared to today's iPhoto / iMovie's effects, but it might do the trick for you.
*Toast, Xilisoft and Burn can also create DVD video discs.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6527",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Moving an iMovie-11 'work in progress' moving from one system to another I just discovered that 'system a' has no DvD burner. System B has one. I can drop ilife onto system B, but ... which of the collection of 'import/export' mechanisms makes sense here to use the B drive if the movie is under construction on A? Heck, can I just somewhow share the 'media browser' and just do the DVD part of the process on System B?
A: Accessing DVD drives
Under System Preferences > Sharing you can share the DVD drive of B with A.
This should allow you to use the DVD burner on B as though it were a part of A, so you can just keep working on A.
Import / Export
You mention iLife, but not what program in iLife you are using, nor what you are doing with that program, so it is difficult to suggest an export/import method.
Moving 'Work in Progress'
Your question is about accessing a DVD drive, but your title is more generic.
If you want to move work in progress between two computers, you can use a variety of techniques, including, for example, DropBox, USB drives, shared folders over wireless or wired intranet or internet, etc.
A: Do you mean to import/export the iMovie project (or whatever) from system A to system B?
As mankoff points out you can simply share the DVD drive over the network, or alternatively, once you've got iLife on system B, you could browse to your project file over the network (on system B) and burn that way as well.
Using either of these methods you don't need to do any importing or exporting, so they are probably the two best methods for you.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6533",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Can anyone recommend a programmers' editor? I'm looking for a programmers' editor. I know Xcode and I use it for application programming but I'm looking for something that will:
*
*Syntax highlight PHP, SQL, Javascript (including jQuery) and CSS not required but would be nice; also Lua, Python, and Perl
*IntelliSense type stuff, start typing and get all the functions/objects/variables it could be and any parameters. Xcode does this well for C/C++/Objective-C but looking for languages that are listed above.
*Would be nice if it worked with projects and not just files
*Integrated with SVN, CVS, or GIT
*Had upload-to-server functionality built in
I am aware of Coda but am looking for other options before I drop 100 bucks.
A: Eclipse has addins for those languages and does all of the things you mention
A: One more thing.
Sublime Text 2
A: Smultron is one of my favorites, along with TextWrangelr. Both are free.
A: Espresso is nice. Similar to Coda.
A: ActiveState's Komodo is an excellent cross-platform IDE (it's based on Gecko, so feels as native to OS X as Firefox does).
It includes all of the features you mention. There's also a free, open-source, version, Komodo Edit that includes nearly all the features (e.g., no source code repository integration).
A: NetBeans is my development environment of choice. While it's not my text editor for regular files - I'm using TextWrangler or vim on the shell for that - it is the most usable IDE I've come across so far.
It has great code completion, supports various languages, has a great formatting engine, extremely well done and easy to configure debugging functionalities and a very good SVN integration.
A: TextMate
Doesn't address all of your needs but I think it's pretty snaz.
A: BBEdit by Bare Bones fulfills all of your requirements. Pricey but 100% worth it.
A: jEdit do some of your requests, but not all of them, and it's also free.
You can read here its feature and languages that it supports.
A: Ultraedit is now available for MacOS X. I haven't tried it yet. But if it comes with the same features as the Windows version (which I use on a daily basis as part of my job) it is absolutely a good recommendation.
It can do all the stuff you are asking for with the exception of providing an integration with software configuration management. Man, would I love to see this implemented.
A: An editor that gets overlooked a lot is MacVim. It's based on the venerable vim editor, from *nix, and can do everything you asked via plugins.
I show it supports 176-ish different languages, including all the ones you mentioned.
I regularly do lookups of existing methods, variables, random text phrases via a CNTRL_N or CNTRL_P mapping which searches all the open files and pops up a list of the hits.
Vim calls its projects "sessions", which stores all the files, window settings, macros, etc., for later reloading. From vim's "direct" mode, :mksession path/to/sessionfile will create it. Sourcing it later from the command-line is simple: vim -S path/to/sessionfile.
There's a great plugin called VCS, that handles my SVN stuff:
...CVS, SVN, SVK, git, bzr, and hg within VIM, including committing changes and performing diffs...
Upload to server functionality is handled by the netrw plugin.
vim does have a steep learning curve, the vimtutor, which comes with the app, can help jump-start you. Also, there are active users here and on SO's sister sites, plus on the vim IRC node on freenode.net.
Probably the most awesome thing about vim, is its available in an interfaced version on Mac OS as MacVim, on Linux using gvim, on Windows, and from the command-line of any of those OSes. vim on any of them will use the same commands, same plugins, same themes, etc., within the limitations of those environments. I bounce back and forth from Mac to Linux all day long and have at least one vim window open somewhere.
And, lest anyone think I'm not familiar with the Mac-only alternatives, I own all my copies of Coda, BBEdit and TextMate, and use them. I go way back with BBEdit, and actually used to occasionally demo it at MacWorld. It's great, but I use vim with the same settings everywhere, and none of the other editors can do that. So, if you need that cross-platform compatibility, look into it.
A: i'd go with Fraise, which used to be Smultron. works with very many languages and has a minimalist interface. syntax highlighting.
A: Beyond up-voting @philip's BBedit recommendation, I am compelled to emphatically endorse BBEIT: BBEdit Simply the best coding editor I've used PC or Mac. I've not used VIM but I've been coding since before DOS existed, so I understand the speed of all-keyboard-all-the-time editing. I'll give you that and yet stand by my BBEdit endorsement.
P.S. Did I mention I like BBEdit?
A: I'd second the recommendations for Sublime Text and the JetBrains products (I use WebStorm extensively in my job). If you want something free, atom is well worth a look. It's fairly bare-bones, but has a wide selection of plugins that should encompass what you need.
A: It has been mentioned, but only in passing:
Atom (https://atom.io/) is open source and developed by GitHub. Integration with github is superb and it is particularly interesting these days since there is a lot of development with new features and new ideas regularly. I think it will cover your whole list of requirements through extensions (packages - https://atom.io/packages).
A: For me Jetbrains PHP-Storm is simply the best & most complete IDE!
It has a lot of good and usefull features though it stays simple to handle and setup.
It's available for Linux, OSX and Windows. .
Pros:
*
*PhP 5.x
*Javascript (JSLint, JSHint code hints)
*HTML/CSS/SCSS/SASS
*Lua, Perl and Python plugins do exist. (checked at JetBrains IntelliJ IDEA plugin Repository)
*Intelligent and configurable code completion in all languages mentioned:
*
*Object calls
*chaining methods
*method list on objects
*namespace proposition when typing or creating
*all kind of syntax errors
*Intelligent searching & replacing in files and directories, also with regular expresions
*etc...
*Project based
*FTP/SFTP
- Automatic upload when saving or when leaving the window (when Alt+Tabing to the browser)
- Upload external changes, coming from the terminal/console, SCSS/SASS compiler, etc.
- Remote/local file comparison by timestamp or content with the option to merge
*GIT, Mercury and CVS fully integrated. For SVN at least one plugin exists at the JetBrains IntelliJ IDEA plugin Repository...
*Local files comparison & merging, (2 files)
*Console/Terminal
*Debugging
*Editor code style settings
*etc
Cons:
*
*About 100 $ for a personal licence.
installable on several machines, but usable only by one machine at the time in an internal network.
*It's written in Java, so it needs quite a lot of memory and CPU.
PhpStorm 9.0.0 system requirements:
The absolute minimum!!!
Intel Pentium III/800 MHz or higher (or compatible)
512 MB RAM minimum, 2 GB RAM recommended
1024x768 minimum screen resolution
A 24 inch late 2009 iMAC with a 2.66 Ghz Core Duo, 4 GB RAM and Mavericks installed is definitively too slow to get the work done in time!
I'd recommend as a minimum 8GB RAM on a OSX Mavericks and 16GB on a windows machine. Linux should stand with whatever you have ;-)
A: These are some of my favorites from a front end designer's standpoint:
*
*Coda
*Espresso
*Sublime Text
*TextMate
*Atom (my personal choice currently)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6536",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "19"
} |
Q: iPhone music is skipping Some of the music on my iPhone 4G 32Gig started skipping intermittently when I play it on the phone. These are mp3 files synch'd to the iPhone through iTunes from my Windows 7 laptop.
I have filled it to 28G.
The same song played back again at a later time does not skip but another one might.
What is going on here?
What do I do about this?
A: Definitely sounds like its fragmentation-related.
I found a few sources, take with a grain-of-salt but it seems to back up the hypothesis.
*
*http://sites.google.com/site/tony72/ppc_frag
*http://www.lagom.nl/misc/flash_fragmentation.html
*https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-540-74472-6_13
*http://www.diskeeper.com/blog/post/2007/06/22/The-Impact-of-Fragmentation-on-Flash-Drives-%28iPods-Jump-Drives-etc%29.aspx
My earlier post:
Edit: Thank you for the info.
Some additional info could help with this:
*
*iPhone release (orig, 3g, 3gs etc...)
*codec of audio: (mp3? apple lossless?
aiff?...)
Without the additional info, my first hypothesis would be that its a memory issue. You might try killing some other apps (yes, I know they shouldn't be running, but there may be some related processing happening in the background.)
To take it to another extreme for testing purposes, do you have video clips you could try? If so, test them out and come back if there's any useful information gathered.
One last thing, I doubt its related but, how full is the storage on the iPhone?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6541",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to set up my network/bridging using Apple Airport equipment? I'd like to set up my network like this, and I want to make sure it's possible using the hardware I have. I think it should be...
I've got my cable modem in one room. I want to plug it into an Apple Airport Express and create my wireless my wireless network here. The airport express will do the NAT and DHCP.
By my TV there are a few things to be networked (Xbox and Tivo). I have an airport extreme here. I'd like to have the airport extreme join the wireless network and share the connection to the ethernet ports.
Can anyone provide some assistance on the best way to configure to do this?
Thanks!
A: Here's what ended up working, via: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2725432&tstart=0
The following are the basic steps to configure a "dynamic" WDS with the 802.11n AirPort Express Base Station (AXn) being extended by the 802.11n AirPort Extreme Base Station (AEBSn). Please compare them to what you attempted to see if anything was missed.
One thing to note is that the AXn is not capable of providing simultaneous dual-band operation like the AEBSn. That said, you will only be able to extend the 2.4 OR the 5 GHz radio of the AXn. Since the lower frequency band travels longer distances, I would suggest extending it.
o If practical, place the base stations in near proximity to each other during the setup phase. Once done, move them to their desired locations.
o Open AirPort Utility and select the AXn.
o Choose Manual Setup from the Base Station menu. Enter the base station password if necessary.
o Click AirPort in the toolbar, and then, click Wireless.
o Choose “Create a wireless network” from the Wireless Mode pop-up menu, and then, select the “Allow this network to be extended” checkbox.
o Next, select the AEBSn, and then, choose Manual Setup from the Base Station menu. Again, enter the base station password if necessary.
o Choose “Extend a wireless network” from the Wireless Mode pop-up menu, and then, choose the network provided by the AXn from the Network Name pop-up menu.
o Enter the base station network and base station password is necessary.
o Click Update to update the base station with new network settings.
A: http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/Time_Capsule_Early2009_Setup.pdf
The configuration on page 27 should be what you're looking for. It will require that your modem be only a modem; not a router. We had trouble with that when we were trying to set it up with our DSL modem.
Have fun!
A: John.. the express apparently is not supposed to be able to handle more than 10 connections, according to Apple. Which means, you have have to set up the express so that it doesn't accept wireless clients, but can be extended.
You would then set up the Extreme to extend the Express, and to accept wireless clients. Then of course you would put it into bridge mode so that the wired clients can access the wireless...
Or you could move the Extreme to where the modem is. Of course that means you'd have to get a switch and connect it up to the Express. Blegh...
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6542",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I downgrade the OS on a Mac to the original one it came with? If I buy a mac with OS X 10.6.5, and then I upgrade it to OS X 10.6.6, how can I downgrade it back to OS X 10.6.5? I don't mind having to reinstall the entire operating system if necessary.
Could this same method also be used if I upgrade to OS X Lion (OS X 10.7)?
The reason I'm asking is because I heard that OS X 10.6.6 removed support for installing boot camp using a Vista CD, and that's all I have. Thus, if I ever want to wipe my computer and reinstall everything, I want to be able to still use a Vista CD to install boot camp.
A: You can reinstall the OS back to the same version that it shipped with by using the restore discs that came with your Mac to wipe your disk and reinstall Mac OS X.
However, just because Apple has officially dropped support for XP and Vista with Boot Camp doesn't mean it will stop working - the most likely situation will be that new computers will have hardware that Apple will only provide Windows 7 drivers for. Existing hardware should be unaffected.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6548",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I install boot camp if I have a Windows 7 upgrade CD? I have the following CD's:
*
*Windows Vista Home Premium (Upgrade)
*Windows Vista Ultimate (Full)
*Windows 7 Professional (Upgrade)
I would like to install Windows 7 on a mac with boot camp. It seems that Apple doesn't support installations via upgrade discs.
From what I understand, this means that I can't simply begin the installation using the Windows 7 CD, since it is an upgrade version. What I didn't understand, though, is if I can upgrade the OS once it is installed. For example, if I install the full version of Windows Vista Ultimate, could I then upgrade it to Windows 7? Or is my only option to purchase a full edition of Windows 7?
A: Actually, it's not that Apple won't let you install Windows from an upgrade disc—it's Microsoft that won't.
Think of it in terms of a blank hard drive on (what will be) a Windows PC. You can't use an upgrade disc to install Windows, as there's no OS there to upgrade.
However, once Windows is installed, you can then upgrade to a later version of Windows. This is covered in the Boot Camp
Installation & Setup Guide (pdf), page 15+.
A: What @dori said is correct. The ability (or lack of) to upgrade a Windows edition to another, is restricted by Microsoft. If what you have is correct, you could install Vista Ultimate and then upgrade to Windows 7, however, this is a bad idea in terms of final results.
Windows 7 "upgrades" haven't been too smooth according to users doing that both in Virtual Machines, Bootcamp and Native PCs. In fact, I have some Microsoft friends who recommended that I perform fresh W7 installs.
If you still want to try it, you can follow Microsoft's guide about Upgrading from vista to w7.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6549",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why does Google Chrome mount and unmount a volume every few hours? I'm assuming it's part of the 'check for updates' process, but does anyone know how this is controlled and what it's mounting and unmounting?
I first discovered this behavior after updating Growl, and I ran HardwareGrowler to see what it did (it was a slow afternoon) and it's kind of neat to see what hardware is connected at any given time, and watching what happens when I plug in various USB peripherals, etc. I know, I have a severely deficient view of entertainment. After amusing myself with this for about 5-10 minutes, I returned to my work.
Some time after this, I spotted out of the corner of my eye a Growl message that said 'Volume Mounted Google 8.0.0 (something)' And just as quickly 'Volume Unmounted Google 8.0.0 (something)'. I didn't get time for screen shots, it appeared and disappeared within seconds.
Has anyone else noticed this and is the explanation for it posted somewhere online? Apparently there's some helper process that's running that's doing it, but I don't see anything in Activity Monitor with Google or Chrome in the name. I'm not a process-killing weenie, I'm just curious about this behavior I'd never noticed before.
A: Apparently there is a Google Software Update process that is queued to run periodically, which is why it's not always there. (I couldn't grab a screenshot of it, it was too sneaky). It's not just for Chrome, but for Google Earth and Picasa too. It was a bit of a breadcrumb hunt finding info about it.
I think the Google updater isn't a proces that runs all the time, but a launchd job that runs when you boot and every so often after that. Google com.google.keystone.user.agent and you'll find a number of explanations of what they've done (and how to get rid of it if you want).
charlie (Apple Discussions)
From Google's Help Page:
Google Software Update is a background application for the Mac OS that helps ensure that you always have the most up-to-date, stable, and secure versions of the Google software you have installed. Google Software Update may run two services: GoogleSoftwareUpdateAgent and GoogleSoftwareUpdateDaemon. These services allow Google applications to be safely and securely updated.
I couldn't find, and I'm not aware of any reason it mounts a partition, but it's probably either:
*
*A bunch of information about which updates are available and for what apps
*Updates for products, Google Chrome updates are quite regular
*An Update for the Updater
Ah the endless mysteries of HardwareGrowler. Entertainment for the whole family!
A: I don't have an answer, but I do know how you can get one.
Mount and unmount a volume probably is the software attaching something.
What software?
GoogleSoftware update. ( /Library/LaunchAgents/com.googlecode.keystone or something)
Might be in /System/Library, might be in LaunchDaemons. Whatever it is, it is the automatic software updater.
Automatic updates are IMHO, a terrible idea. I can buy crap online with my credit card, but suddenly I'm too stupid to even bother trying to get to agree about an update? Come on!
Don't worry, Google still resolves searches, even when you catch their trojan, because that's what you call applications that download undisclosed software without warning, in action.
Does it tell you "Ohai, just downloaded 2 gigs of updates, including your new CALEA package"?
Most likely not.
Anyway, I'd get on this because DTrace may not work this well by fall.
GoogleSoftwareUpdate is launched from all over your system.
mdfind Keystone # This used to be a shell script. Now it's compiled.
mdfind -name keystone # Good bye Page Rank on my future seo project :(
Repeat that with GoogleSoftwareUpdate as the search term.
Tighten up that tinfoil hat!
locate.updatedb #run as root sudo zsh if you are hip, sudo $JUNK if not
You can build slocate via macports or use the installed locate as well if you want to check your results.
I would index my entire drive first.
File System API ( similar to spotlight )
man fs_usage(1) # fs_usage -f filesys
man sc_usage(1) # These facilities use the filesystem api
DTRace (oh so good, DTrace is!)
Tcl_CommandTraceInfo(3), Tcl_TraceCommand(3), Tcl_UntraceCommand(3) - monitor renames and deletes of a command
Tcl_CommandTraceInfo(3tcl), Tcl_TraceCommand(3tcl), Tcl_UntraceCommand(3tcl) - monitor renames and deletes of a command
bitesize.d(1m) - analyse disk I/O size by process. Uses DTrace
cpuwalk.d(1m) - Measure which CPUs a process runs on. Uses DTrace
creatbyproc.d(1m) - snoop creat()s by process name. Uses DTrace
dappprof(1m) - profile user and lib function usage. Uses DTrace
dapptrace(1m) - trace user and library function usage. Uses DTrace
diskhits(1m) - disk access by file offset. Uses DTrace
dispqlen.d(1m) - dispatcher queue length by CPU. Uses DTrace
dtrace(1) - generic front-end to the DTrace facility
dtruss(1m) - process syscall details. Uses DTrace
errinfo(1m) - print errno for syscall fails. Uses DTrace
execsnoop(1m) - snoop new process execution. Uses DTrace
fddist(1m) - file descriptor usage distributions. Uses DTrace
filebyproc.d(1m) - snoop opens by process name. Uses DTrace
hotspot.d(1m) - print disk event by location. Uses DTrace
httpdstat.d(1m) - realtime httpd statistics. Uses DTrace
iofile.d(1m) - I/O wait time by file and process. Uses DTrace
iofileb.d(1m) - I/O bytes by file and process. Uses DTrace
iopattern(1m) - print disk I/O pattern. Uses DTrace
iopending(1m) - plot number of pending disk events. Uses DTrace
iosnoop(1m) - snoop I/O events as they occur. Uses DTrace
iotop(1m) - display top disk I/O events by process. Uses DTrace
kill.d(1m) - snoop process signals as they occur. Uses DTrace
lastwords(1m) - print syscalls before exit. Uses DTrace
loads.d(1m) - print load averages. Uses DTrace
newproc.d(1m) - snoop new processes. Uses DTrace
opensnoop(1m) - snoop file opens as they occur. Uses DTrace
pathopens.d(1m) - full pathnames opened ok count. Uses DTrace
pidpersec.d(1m) - print new PIDs per sec. Uses DTrace
plockstat(1) - front-end to DTrace to print statistics about POSIX mutexes and read/write locks
priclass.d(1m) - priority distribution by scheduling class. Uses DTrace
pridist.d(1m) - process priority distribution. Uses DTrace
procsystime(1m) - analyse system call times. Uses DTrace
runocc.d(1m) - run queue occupancy by CPU. Uses DTrace
rwbypid.d(1m) - read/write calls by PID. Uses DTrace
rwbytype.d(1m) - read/write bytes by vnode type. Uses DTrace
rwsnoop(1m) - snoop read/write events. Uses DTrace
sampleproc(1m) - sample processes on the CPUs. Uses DTrace
seeksize.d(1m) - print disk event seek report. Uses DTrace
setuids.d(1m) - snoop setuid calls as they occur. Uses DTrace
sigdist.d(1m) - signal distribution by process. Uses DTrace
syscallbypid.d(1m) - syscalls by process ID. Uses DTrace
syscallbyproc.d(1m) - syscalls by process name. Uses DTrace
syscallbysysc.d(1m) - syscalls by syscall. Uses DTrace
topsyscall(1m) - top syscalls by syscall name. Uses DTrace
topsysproc(1m) - top syscalls by process name. Uses DTrace
weblatency.d(1m) - website latency statistics. Uses DTrace
This seems excessive, but once I took a casual look inside of my Safari cache directory, and it's just not cool.
By the way, those gigs of data were for the 'top sites' function.
You'd call them 'pictures of the websites I went to' although they use the term 'thumbnails'
I don't know why they want pictures of porn sites ( Safari has gotten so bad I benched it, it's my porn browser now.) , but they got saved.
One last note.
Any google app you download starts the process. App Engine? Welcome back, Keystone or GoogleSoftwareUpdate.
Opinion:
Once I downloaded software, to do a task.
I did not change it.
I did not steal it.
Browse web pages and STFU, is what I want from it.
Nada mas.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6552",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Setting a custom log I have to get all the chromium and firefox info logs out of /var/log/system.log and into a nice quiet /var/log/{chromium,firefox}.log.
However I can neither recall or find how to set that in syslog.conf. How would I go about doing that?
EDIT: I have been looking at the asl.conf file for the asl logging daemon. This seems to have something to do with what I want, although, going from syslog to a binary log format is directly against sense.
EDIT: To be very clear one can use syslog to dynamically slice the logs. Apple is transitioning from syslog to the apple system log. So the grep approach only deals with the deprecated /var/log syslogd files.
Switching to syslog-ng and logging to sqlite would seem to be easier, but who knows? I'm sure the proprietary format is the way to go.
Note that
syslog(1)
is the command line tool for the ASL database.
syslog(3)
is the C api to the syslogd daemon. The ASL replacement for the above is
asl(3)
Now,
syslogd(8)
has 2 modules, one writing to the files defined in
syslog.conf(5)
and one writing to the apple system log, as defined in
asl.conf(5)
ASL seems to be the future. Syslogd is configured by both syslog.conf and asl.conf.
A: The situation is like that: Applications can use the syslog(3) API and the asl(3) API to log messages, other data logged can come from the kernel or from the network. All of these messages are handed over to the syslog Daemon: syslogd(8). The syslogd now outputs log messages both the BSD way (it writes stuff into various basic log files like /var/log) and into a unified log message store (/var/log/asl.log).
If you want certain log messages not to appear in your log files (eg. you read logs like system.log by selecting them in Console.app), you will need to configure syslog.conf(5) like chiggsy said. If you want messages not to be stored in the asl database, you will need to configure asl.conf(5).
If, for example, you do not longer want Bonjour's (mDNSResponders) Log messages to be stored in the ASL db, you will need to add the following line to /etc/asl.conf :
? [= Sender mDNSResponder] ignore
… and then "gently" restart the syslogd by:
sudo killall -HUP syslogd
Now, messages from mDNSResponder will no longer appear when you go into Console.app's "all messages", but still exist within your logfiles.
Lastly, if you call syslog(1) from the command line, it acts as a nice frontend for querying the ASL db - you could for example ask it to show all messages from the Time Machine Backup starter that were logged in the last two hours by running:
syslog -k Facility -k Sender com.apple.backupd-auto -k Time ge −2h
…which explains, why the ASL db is handy: you can search for log files simultaneously in "all log files".
A: There are 2 answers in practice, if I want to change the logging file location.
Syslog:
Solution is to not read the OS X syslog.conf manpage. Read the FreeBSD one. Syslog still works this way when using its BSD module.
!-org.chromium.Chromium
*.notice;authpriv,remoteauth,ftp,install,internal.none /var/log/system.log
kern.* /var/log/kernel.log
!*
!org.chromium.Chromium
*.* /var/log/stfu.log
!*
This removes chromium's ludicrously chatty log from /var/log/system.log, and puts it into stfu.log.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6559",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: What can be done more with an old ipod touch(First generation) Hi I had an I pod touch (first generation) with version : 1.1.5(4B1) which I bought from EBAy
long time back in 2008
I had installed latest ITunes and browsing if
I can find any applications that can be run on this 1st gen iPod.
But most of the apps are generally compatible with 3 and greater.
Are there really any for 1st gen? If no, what else can be done apart from
playing music and videos..
I had seen http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2052 which
says can be updated to iOS3.1. Has anyone done ...any problems faced..
Any other suggestion you have apart from selling it :-)
A: Maybe not the best iOS device nowadays but it still makes a nifty remote!
I have an Ipod Touch (2nd gen though) that I use to control my mac-mini media center.
It's very intuitive to manage your playlist (iTunes DJ mode) with the Remote app.
And I use Mobile Mouse Pro to use my Ipod as a mouse. User experience is not as sweet as Remote but still a great app which eliminates the need for keyboard.
A: I also have a 1st generation iPod Touch. I have consistently upgradedthe operating system every time an upgrade was available, so I am now running iOS 3.1.
No problems whatsoever, running all sorts of apps, many of which required iOS 3+.
Don't confuse the operating system version with the iPod/iPhone generation (gen 1, 2, 3 or 4).
A: You can Using your iPod as a storage drive:
From apple support:
*
*Connect iPod to your computer.
*Open iTunes if it doesn't automatically open.
*Select the iPod icon in the Source pane.
*Click the Summary tab.
*Select "Enable disk use" or "Manually manage music and videos."
Either one will allow you to use iPod
as a drive. If you select "Manually
manage music and videos," iTunes won't
automatically update iPod with the
iTunes library. If you want iTunes to
automatically update your iPod, select
"Enable disk use" instead.
*The iPod disk icon appears on the desktop and in Finder windows, and in
My Computer/Computer in Windows.
Double-click the icon and drag files
to or from iPod's window to copy them.
*Make sure to eject iPod before disconnecting it from your computer.
Tip: The iPod display will say "Do Not
Disconnect" when disk use is enabled
(iPod shuffle's status light will
continue to blink orange until after
it is ejected). These are reminders
for you to eject iPod first.
A: Yes, you can run apps on that. You've got to upgrade to 3.1.3. I think it costs $10.
Not all apps will run though, but most of them will run fine.
A: You could always jailbreak your device you can do loads of cool things like running android or loads of new settings its really good
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6569",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What external DVD drive should I use my MBP's internal drive is broken? I've got an old MBP where the internal drive starts to refuse reading discs and stopped burning discs a while ago.
Now I'm thinking about getting an external drive (DVD-RW, USB or Firewire). Most of these devices don't explicitly mention Mac compatibility. According to this forum post, most of the drives should be compatible though.
I was wondering if there's some sort of "official" compatibility list for different versions of Mac OS X? I also read somewhere that OS X 10.5 and 10.6 are compatible with most of the external drives... is there some information about which devices won't work?
A: I've never heard of an external drive that wouldn't work.
A: Modern and semi modern CD Drives (USB) are 100 % compatible with OS X since they are really an ATA drive, connected through USB.
Bluetooth and LightScribe technology will be another story, but the drive, as a reader/recorder ought to work without problems. In fact, if you ever find one that doesn't work, it would be a nice discovery.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6572",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can the Epson V700 be used with an Airport I have a MacBook Pro, Snow Leopard, and an Epson V700 Scanner.
I'm thinking of buying an Airport Extreme or even better, an Airport Express (cos it's cheap).
Can I use the Epson V700 via the Airport as if it was connected locally via USB?
Apple talks about printers but not dedicated scanner, any ideas...?
cheers!
A: You cannot scan over the network using the USB port of the airport express. It is only for printing.
Apple does not explicitly say that scanners are not supported, but it is not one of the official uses of the USB hub. I have not heard anyone being successful in this, and AFAIK there are no hacks/third party s/w to do this (like AirFoil for streaming audio).
I personally have tried, in vain. I have a HP all in one, but the Snow Leopard does not recognize the scanner functions. I have to physically connect the scanner for this to work.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6573",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Rent foreign language films in iTunes It’s now pretty well-established that you cannot change the language of the iTunes store unless you also change your billing address.
Fair enough.
But the language setting also dominates the contents of the store completely. I.e. I cannot download films that, though available in the US, have not (yet) appeared on DVD in Germany (having a German billing address).
This is annoying.
But it gets worse: apparently I also cannot rent/buy the original version of most DVDs that are available.
When I buy a DVD in Germany, it always also contains the original voice track. No reason not to include it, after all. Since most film translations are sloppy and generally just incredibly poorly done, and since even the well done translations necessarily lose some of the finer nuances, I always try to watch the original versions of films of which I understand the language, and I know a lot of people who do the same.
So this must be a common request.
Is there any way to rent/buy the original version of the available iTunes films?
A: Short (and only) answer: No, you cannot rent or buy movies in other languages. I share the same problem in Spain, movies are dubbed in spanish.
Matrix sounds hilarious in spanish, trust me.
There's no way to change that. The only solution is -like you've said- switch to the US Store, but that requires billing address changes and all the hurdles involved in that.
A: If you find someone who can provide you a foreign gift card from your desired country, you can use it to create an account and purchase from the store of that country.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6575",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: 25+ inch monitor (Macbook Pro and Windows laptop) I have a Lenovo Windows 7 laptop and now I have a shiny new Macbook pro to go with it.
I want to build a workstation where both share the same monitor. Since I code, I want a fairly large monitor with a fairly large resolution so that I can see a lot of code. The only thing better than high resolution is very high resolution. :)
The Lenovo laptop is docked and has a digital output (the unused rectangular white outlet in middle of the picture)
Since I want a large monitor which is going to be a decent investment, I should get one with the best goodies so I can hook up other things to it and use it for other purposes.
So here is a two part question:
*
*Can anyone provide insight on the features to get?
*How do I go about choosing a monitor that can be shared between the Lenovo and the Macbook Pro laptops?
A: This may have less to do with the monitor you get and more to do with how you hook up the laptops to the monitor. When using multiple desktops on a single monitor, I've found KVM switches extremely useful. If you were planning on using a single keyboard for the two laptops, I would recommend this approach. However, I'm not aware of a single keyboard that will give you OS-specific controls for both Mac (command, eject, volume, etc) and Windows (start, etc).
A: @Daniel has a good idea with the switch.
However, if you don't need to share keyboards/mice, I recommend getting a monitor with multiple inputs (almost all these days) and just connecting the Lenovo to one and the MacBook Pro to the other. Switch the inputs on the monitor.
The downside of this is that, even if the monitor isn't using the Mac's input, the Mac will think it's connected. So, you may get windows popping up on a nonexistent monitor, and losing your cursor now and then.
As for features: Make sure you get something with a high contrast ratio, and as VESA mount. Even if you don't anticipate mounting it right away, you may well want to later, especially if you share it between multiple machines.
A: In addition to Daniel and Nathan's answers, do not buy any monitor that has "speakers", 99% of the displays that came with speakers turned out to be a complete waste of technology (not the display itself, but the speakers), which will let you wonder, why put speakers there in the first place if the volume/quality is going to be worse than using a Megaphone.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6576",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Can I disable the iPhone's auto-rotation to landscape mode? I can't stand iPhone's auto-rotation feature, e.g. rotate your phone just past some threshold, and the screen rotates from portrait to landscape.
This is always tripping me up, especially when I'm lying down and simply want to read my iPhone in portrait mode.
Is there a way to just disable the feature altogether?
A: No, there is no way to disable the accelerometer on an official iPhone.
Apparently for Jailbroken iPhones, there is a Cydia app called 'Rotation Inhibitor' (thanks JeffP) that lets you disable tilting for Safari and music mode. Info is here, but I have no experience with it.
A: Before iOS 4 - jailbreak software changes could do this.
For iOS 4 and later, the lock function easily sets a portrait mode for all apps that run in both portrait and landscape.
You can lock the screen rotation on the iPhone 3GS and 4, running iOS 4, to portrait only by double pressing the Home button (bringing up the task switcher), swiping right to show the media controls and pressing the left most icon (looks like a refresh button), the rotation lock. When locked you will see a padlock in the icon and a new status bar icon of the same design.
Note: this does not affect applications which only run in landscape mode, such as most games.
Edit: Video of how to do this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYkUzYXtZT0
A: On iOS 7+:
*
*Slide your finger from the bottom of the screen upwards. A menu called Control Center should appear.
*
*Click on the lock icon.
A: With the advent of the iOS 6+ Accessibility feature "Guided Access", there is a workaround for this. It limits a few things but it completely works if you really need a solution.
*
*To enable the feature you will use, navigate to Settings > General > Accessibility > Guided Access and flip the toggle to ON. Set a passcode.
*Navigate to the app you wish to lock rotation in, and rotate the device to a landscape orientation.
*Triple-click the Home button. Depending on how other Accessibility options are set, you may need to then select Guided Access from a popup that appears.
*Select Options and disable Motion. Press Done, followed by Start.
This will now lock the rotation in a lanscape orientation! Unfortunately it also disables all hardware buttons, so you will be unable to switch apps, lock the device, or adjust the volume until you triple-click the Home button again to disable Guided Access.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6577",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: How to make preview jump to a specific line on startup I am using TexLipse for working with latex, producing pdfs as output. I have configured it to use preview as viewer using this command line:
open -a "/Applications/Preview.app" %fullfile
Where %fullfile is the name of the file to be opened. TexLipse supports the adding of a %line argument, that can be passed to the viewer to make it jump to the position where the cursor in the editor is at. However, I could not find a way or any documentation on how to pass that argument to preview. Can anyone explain how to achieve this? Is it even possible?
A: If you are working with LaTeX, you should use Skim.app not Preview.app
Skim has support for moving bi-directionally between LaTeX source and the PDF, to a specific line in either the source or PDF file.
A: Not possible with Preview. It can go to a specific page, but that's as close as you can get. And I doubt that's baked into the CL access.
You can get the free Adobe Reader for Mac here. It must be able to do this...
A: It is possible with Preview.app but it wasn't designed for this so it is a bit of a hack.
Turn on GUI scripting, then make a script that simulates pressing the down arrow, then call that script n times.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6580",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Cleaning White MacBook I have a white MacBook, and it has gotten kinda dingy over the past couple of years. Still runs fine, but I would like to know what I can use to clean the white plastic. I was thinking one of those Mr. Clean erasers, but just want to see if The Community had any other (verified) options lol.
Thanks!
Thomas
A: In my (too many) years of experience, the best "mix" you can make is composed of:
Seven parts of water (distilled if possible but in the case of the plastic it won't make much difference)
Three parts of alcohol (the same used in medicine, sold in pharmacies).
So you actually put seven "somethings" of water and then three of alcohol. Mix, and store in a bottle, closed (or the alcohol will evaporate!). It can last for months. Use soft cloth to clean everything, even screens. Don't use toilet paper on screens.
note: Somethings can be, glasses, spoons, lid, etc. The important thing is that you use it for both water and alcohol, so it's the same proportion.
A: Nothing beats a microfiber lens cloth to get all the fingerprints and smudges off of a glossy screen (without streaks).
I just use plain old Windex on a cloth to get the keyboard and case feeling crisp again. Been doing this for years and never noticed a difference from isopropyl alcohol. (Just don't spray your laptop)
Microfiber cloths on Amazon
A: Be careful with Mr. Clean Magic Erasers. Although at first they seem perfect for the job (you just gently rub the eraser and your Macbook starts to look like new again) they are very abrasive, which means you're actually removing the coating from your Macbook (as if you were using a very fine sandpaper).
I only used Magic Erasers on my Macbook once, but I suppose that over time the result won't be good.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6590",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Recreating iTunes library from a .itdb file? My Windows laptop (and HDD) have died, taking with it iTunes and my music. Things could have been a lot worse, but I fortunately have a back up of my mp3s. However, I have lost the iTunes library containing all my play counts, last played, ratings etc.
I am keen to recover this data and have bought software to access my iPod Touch as a hard drive which has enabled me to view the underlying files. However I don't seem to be able to find a version of the iTunes Library.itl (or iTunes Music Library.xml) file which would contain the meta data I need.
The only seemingly useful file I can find is the library.itdb file, which seems about the right file size to contain the data I'm looking for.
My question therefore is can anyone advise if there is a way of recreating the library .itl or .xml file from this .itdb (iTunes database) file?
NB. I have managed to extract the meta data I need, but the program I am using creates its own paths to the mp3 files, which would leave every track broken.
A: You never said whether your hard drive is dead. If it's not, pull it out and use it as an external drive (with the help of a SATA-Firewire adapter). Use Migration Assistant.app to copy over your music, or just copy your iTunes folder (e.g., "~/Music/iTunes Media/").
Then, the next time open up iTunes, hold down alt as you tell it to open. In the following dialog box, select the new location of your iTunes Media folder.
My apologies if your hard drive is legitimately dead. I don't yet have privileges to comment on a question, which would have been a more appropriate vector for asking you to clarify the state of your hard drive.
A: Is this what you're looking for?
http://dougscripts.com/itunes/scripts/ss.php?sp=synchipoditunesdata
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6592",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What command combo at terminal will output a list of directories with human-readable sizes? I'd like to open Terminal.app and enter a command like:
my-macbook-pro:~ my-username$ ls -lh
Instead of seeing the size of the folders in bytes that are in my current working directory, I'd like to see size of the folders, including all of their contents like so:
drwxr-xr-x 7 my-username staff 100Gi Dec 20 19:38 my-huge-project-folder
drwxr-xr-x 3 my-username staff 80Gi Dec 27 14:15 my-slightly-smaller-project-folder
Is there a command I can type that will yield similar output above?
A: In order to see a list of folders with sizes you can use the du command.
To make the sizes human readable use the -h option
To make sum the size of child folders use the -s option (may take some time to run depending on the contents).
du -hs *
Here is an (uninteresting) example of the output.
0B Desktop
632K Documents
356K Downloads
76M Library
0B Movies
0B Music
4.0K Pictures
0B Public
40K Sites
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6595",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: What OS X app can I use for wireframing? I'm looking for something to replace Visio on a Mac. I am getting tired of using VMware because it's too slow on my computer and was wondering if there's anything out there I can use to wireframe apps specific to Macs.
A: If money isn't an issue, or one that you can wrestle with, then I don't think there is really any better tool for this than OmniGraffle by the Omni Group. It doesn't come with interface elements by default, but there is a freely-available extensive library of options on their site Graffletopia.
A: Even if the need is not exactly the same, some answers of this recent thread may apply.
A: I have the same problem, Visio and MS Project are the only things i can't find good replacements for, so i have an XP VM running in Parallels.
Most of the time we use the free version of Balsamiq. We have a license for the installable version, but no one uses it, preferring to use the online version.
Not as clean as Omnigraffle or Visio, but works well for wireframing.
Also, consider the Drawing tools in Google Docs, they are excellent and have all the basic shapes.
A: Not the exact answer, but Crossover Mac claims to run Visio 2K3 (And the whole Office Suite) using an API comparability layer, rather than a full-blown VM.
It's basically Wine with a pretty GUI and some Mac-Specific Tweaks.
OTOH, if you're feeling adventurous, you could try straight-up wine, whough it will likely require some console trickery.
The Wine App DB Claims that Visio 2007 works pretty well.
The easiest way to get Wine on OS X is probably MacPorts -
Just sudo port install wine winetricks
A: I recommend OmniGraffle, as previously mentioned, with the Konigi Wireframe Stencils or the Yahoo! Design Stencil Kit.
But, if you find OmniGraffle too expensive, you can save some money and use Keynote ($20 in the App Store) with Travis Isaac's Keynote Wireframe Toolkit ($12), which I've found a very capable replacement. Check out his Keynote Kung-Fu presentation on the subject of wireframing with Keynote.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6598",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Typing umlauts and accented characters without the one second delay One of the things I dislike most with the iPhone is its sized-down keyboard with only 10 keys in a row.
This may fine for English, but leaves not enough room for umlauts or accented letters.
The official way to input umlauts is to hold down the key and wait
until the umlauts and accented letters pop up, but this is way too slow.
For numbers and symbols there is the tap-slide-release trick,
but for umlauts this doesn't work.
Is there a way to type these letters faster?
A: I don't know a direct solution to your question: Reduced delay. If your iPhone is jailbroken you might be able to find the preference file that sets the delay and reduce it.
One work around could be to not deal with the accents at all and have the iPhone insert them for you, as autocorrected words. You can now type full speed.
To add custom words to the dictionary:
*
*Add the Japanese Ten Key keyboard: Settings > General > Keyboards > International Keyboards > Add New Keyboard > Japanese Ten Key.
*Add words: Settings > General > Keyboards > Edit User Dictionary.
*Have the Word be what you want to type w/o accennts, and the Yomi be the accented work.
For example, I added Word=fooxx and Yomi=föoxx, I then went to the Notepad and using the English keyboard I typed "fooxx", and the iPhone suggested föoxx. When I did this example without the "xx" it did not work, perhaps because foo is already in my dictionary.
Alternatively, if you iPhone is jailbroken you could try using Xpandr
A: What umlauts are you interested in? Could you switch to a keyboard layout which has them? I use åäö which are included in the swedish keyboard layout.
Apple provides several keyboard layouts for iOS. Just go to settings, general, International, Keyboards.
A: According to this Mac & i article iOS 5 will finally have a German keyboard with 11 keys in a row:
Edit: Only with iOS 6 this keyboard has finally arrived.
Yeah!
A: Worse : add the arabic keyboard, and you'll see that there's a key next to the spacebar that instantly pops up a choice of characters, when pressed.
I, too, would like that kind of behaviour for accents in French ! I hate the one second delay.
A: Just want to inform everyone above that all you need to do is keep pressing the letter and all characters with signs above pop up, and there is the umlaut. I'm using 6s. Actually, just got it and needed the umlaut too.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6606",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How can I stop Finder from trying to 'pre-load' audio files? I have a lot of audio in my storage devices.
Finder for Mac OS X Snow Leopard tries to get a 'snapshot' of the audio whenever a folder is opened and this can take a while if there are lots of files. It seems to integrate iTunes with the Finder so that audio can be played directly from the Finder icon and not just in iTunes.
I don't want Finder to do this, I just want it to list the files with normal icons and then I can pick which to play. Normal listing happens almost instantly whereas audio pre-loading takes a while.
Any help?
A: View > Show View Options > uncheck Show Icon Preview
(If you're in List view or Icon view, click Use as Defaults to make it the default). Repeat for each view mode as necessary.
Hope this helps....
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6612",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Time capsule speed issues Whenever I browse my Time Capsule's AirPort Disk, it seems very slow in simply listing the files it has. I am looking in directories with upwards of fifty music files in each.
Scrolling is really slow. I have turned of Icon Preview in the View Options etc. But it's still slow.
Anyone know how I can speed it up?
Thanks.
A: This is the nature of wireless networks and Apple's AFP protocol. I'd reccomend either connecting to a wired network to browse your music, or using the command line to find what you're looking for, as Finder adds a deal of latency to the file-listing process.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6619",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Connecting iPhone to TV What cable do I need to display my iPhone on my TV?
I have a jailbroken iPhone 3GS running iOS 4.2.1.
A: The Apple Component AV Cable will let you connect from the iPhone's dock connector to RCA jacks on your TV. It won't be HD.
Standard Disclaimer: Since it's jailbroken, neither I or Apple can guarantee full/any support.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6621",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How can I access my Time Capsule remotely? Can someone please educate me on exactly how I can access my Time Capsule from any other network aside from my own (over the Internet?)
I don't have a static IP address, so would I need DNS forwarding? Would it involve checking my home network's IP while away? Should I get static IP?
Many thanks!!
A: I believe the AEBS port should be 5009 for access via Airport Utility.
I set up a test network with a Linksys WRT160N router in the middle, and an AEBS
and my MacBook connected to LAN ports of the WRT160N. I ran Airport Utility on the
MacBook, then tried "Configure Other" (from the File menu). I got a prompt for the
IP address and password of the AEBS. I was able to successfully connect when I entered the IP address 192.168.1.2:5009 or just 192.168.1.2, but the connection failed
if I tried 192.168.1.2:548.
Next I connected to a "live" WRT160N over the internet. I configured a port forwarding entry (using "Applications & Gaming") for 5009, to forward to an AEBS behind the WRT160N. Then I ran Airport Utility, did another Configure Other, and BINGO! It worked. When I tried the same process using port 548, it failed.
Maybe 548 is the port to use to access files on a Time Capsule, or a disk attached to an AEBS?
A: If You Have a Time Capsule or an AirPort Extreme Base Station with Shared USB Hard Drive
If you have either a Time Capsule (which is basically an AirPort Extreme Base Station with a built-in 500 GB or 1 TB hard drive) or an AirPort Extreme Base Station (AEBS) with an attached USB hard drive, you can share out the Time Capsule/AEBS hard drive and make it accessible via the Internet. To do this:
*
*Start the Airport Utility.
*Select your Time Capsule or AEBS. Make a note of the IP Address shown on the right -- you will need it later.
*Click Manual Setup.
*Check your "Connection Sharing" setting under the Internet Tab. The following tutorial is valid if your "Connection Sharing" is to "Share a public IP address", the normal setup for a home network. You will need to have a static IP address, or use a free dynamic DNS service. If you have a different type of "Connection Sharing," you probably don't need a tutorial to set up remote access to your disk; adapt this one as needed.
*Click Disks (at the top of the dialog box), and then click File Sharing.
*Select (check) the "Enable file sharing" checkbox and the "Share disks over Ethernet WAN port" checkbox. It is strongly recommended that you also set Secure Shared Disks to "With base station password" and Guest Access to "Not allowed"; not making these changes may allow unauthorized users to access your Time Capsule/AEBS hard drive.
*Click Airport (at the top of the dialog box), and then click Base Station.
*Enter a Base Station Password and verify it in the Verify Password box.
*Click Advanced (at the top of the dialog box), and then click Port Mapping.
*Click the plus sign (+) to add a new port mapping.
*In the Public UDP Port(s) and Public TCP Port(s) boxes, type in a 4-digit port number (e.g., 5678) that you choose. In the Private IP Address box, type the internal IP address of your Time Capsule or AEBS that you wrote down in step 2 (for example, 192.168.0.1). In the Private UDP Port(s) and Private TCP Port(s) boxes, type 548. Click Continue.
*In the Description box, type a descriptive name like "Time Capsule File Sharing" or "AEBS File Sharing". Then, click Done.
*When you have made all changes, click Update.
Your Time Capsule/AEBS will restart. Once it does, you are now ready to connect to the Time Capsule/AEBS hard drive via the Internet. To do this when your MBA is away from home:
*
*In the Finder, click Go > Connect to Server.
*Type in the correct domain name or external IP address for your network, plus a colon and the port number you specified in step 11. For example, "www.myhomedomain.com:5678" or "123.123.12.123:5678".
*Click Connect.
*You will be prompted for your user name and password. The user name can be anything you like; the password should be the password for the Time Capsule/AEBS which you specified above.
*Click Connect.
Voilà! You are now connected to your Time Capsule/AEBS hard drive from your MBA. You can access files, copy files back and forth between your MBA and the hard drive, delete files, whatever you want, as long as your MBA remains network-connected. The next time you go to connect, it should go even more quickly (especially if you save your password in your keychain, and if you add your home IP address/domain name to your list of Favorite Servers in the Connect dialog box).
Note that the Time Capsule/AEBS will appear in the Shared section of your Finder's sidebar as a server, with the Base Station Name of the Time Capsule/AEBS as the server name.
Taken from http://forums.dealmac.com/read.php?4,2800627
Additional Info:
I know port forwarding can be a big hassle so I thought I would add that you could also use apple's built in "Back To My Mac" feature. This way you can access your Time Capsule's files as well as accessing you home mac files and screen share with your mac over a secure connection.
Try this article: https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204618
A: Here're 4 methods found on Apple discussion board, https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3413
A: Worked immediately in a iPhone:
https://www.stratospherix.com/support/getting-started-with-timecapsule.php
A: You have to set up port forwarding or a NAT on your home internet router mapping the port to the internal ip address of your time capsule.
A: I would absolutely not do this because the connection from your local machine on your "other network" to your home router/gateway (and also therefore Time Capsule or AEBS) is insecure. [note: this is true even though you can securely remotely configure your Time Capsule or AEBS via AirPort Utility because that connection is most certainly secure/encrypted]
*
*passwords are being sent over the wire, they are probably encrypted, but potentially they are not
*files/backups are being sent over the wire, they are very likely not encrypted, though they may be
*even if your passwords and files are encrypted, without a secured/encrypted session (such as TLS/SSL/WireGuard) you are vulnerable to a man in the middle replay attack
The proposed solution is insecure.
Much Better Solution: You need to add in either a hardware VPN or a software VPN (running on a computer on the LAN). For most consumer (non-business) use cases, you are going to want a software VPN. It is ideal that this VPN is at the edge of your network so unauthenticated users cannot get beyond the VPN onto your network.
OK, now things just got messy because now you need to know about VPNs, and thats not simple. That's probably why this feature (access files remotely over WAN/internet) was not promoted (even if it has minimal insecure support). So my explanation will stop here. Best of luck!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6623",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "15"
} |
Q: When plugged in, does the iPhone use the battery or the external source during heavy use? I love to play games and do other tasks that quickly drain the iPhone's battery. Sometimes I'll use the phone while plugged into a power supply. Does the iPhone still use the battery when performing these high-performance tasks while connected to the power source?
A: When you're plugged in to a power source, the iPhone will not use the battery unless for some reason you are using more power than the charging source can provide.
Normally, unless some process is hitting the CPU and GPU and all radios (such as a GPS mapping app), even a computer USB port at 500 mA will both power your games/apps and charge your battery at the same time.
Even if your game takes more current than the charge is providing, using all the wall power will reduce the amount of battery being consumed which will certainly save your battery.
Of course, you should expect hundreds of full charge/discharges and as long as you are one a month draining the battery, you don't need to keep the electrons moving otherwise for good battery lifespan and health.
A: Although Nathan has a valid point for wall charging, from personal experience it is possible to discharge the battery while it is plugged into a powered USB port.
Even though my iPod Touch 2nd Gen was plugged into my MacBook, playing Need for Speed Undercover was sufficient to cause the device to power down due to low battery. It seems that a powered USB doesn't provide sufficient charge to offset the drain caused by a graphically intensive game.
To sum up: if you are worried about exhausting the battery while charging, use a wall charger.
A: nonsense , the icon means nothing , i have my phone at 100% with the plugged in icon , i use it for awhile it goes back to lightning icon , i use r more it goes down to 99% , at 96% now having used it plugged in since 100% watching stuff in YouTube multitasking iPod etc
it shows Apple electronics suck that they are clever enough to implement this - or they prefer batteries have shorter life , to charge you more money
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6624",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Automating .ics import from Mail to iCal I've got a setup that will take all the events in a range of dates in Outlook 2007 (at work), create an .ics file for it, and email it to my home email address. The email comes with a few .gif files as well for prettiness.
Is there a straightforward, relatively failproof way to automatically take the .ics attachemnt when it is received in Mail.app and import it into a specific iCal calendar? The calendar I'd like to use is the default calendar that pops up in the dialog box.
I've done some mucking about with Automator - it sort of works, except that sometimes it 'finds' the .ics file multiple times, and so tries to import it multiple times... if it only finds the file once, it works fine.
EDIT Jan-19 - The "Add to iCal Automatically" solution in Mail.app's preferneces is better than what I had, but still not quite enough.
1. I don't see that it allows me to specify what calendar it's adding the event(s) to.
2. It's not automatic - I would need to open the email to do it. My intention is for an unattended workflow.
3. It's too broad - I only want .ics files that meet certain criteria (ie, only in emails from my work email address), not every invitation that I receive.
A: There is an option in Mail.app that you can set to automatically 'Add invitations to iCal'.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6630",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How well does Apple Remote Desktop work over the Internet? I have a few family members with Macs that I'd like to be able to help if they have questions or get stuck, and I've been looking into various solutions to be able to remotely connect to their computers over the internet. In the past I've mainly used iChat, but it sometimes just doesn't work (and I do have a few members in my family that have a bit of trouble accepting the screen sharing invitation). My typical fallback is Skype which nearly always works, but I don't have any control over the screen so I have to walk them through what they need to do.
Now that Apple Remote Desktop is available in the Mac App Store for $80, I'm wondering if it does what I need. Namely, I'd like to be able to automatically connect and control a remote computer over the internet without having to configure the router it's connected to. Does Apple Remote Desktop have this capability?
A: Apple Remote Desktop will involve either having a VPN or open ports and static IPs. I think you will be much better off with LogMeIn.com's free version, which will require zero intraction from your family members and open ports are not necessary. You will need to know a user's credentials on their computer. If they require more privacy they can disable LogMeIn from the menu bar item, as it will always be on as long as they are connected to the Internet. I suggest adding a user to each computer with your name and one password—that will be one less thing for you to remember and if they change their password or don't remember it you can still help them.
I use both ARD and LogMeIn daily, but ARD is more than you need.
A: It appears that it does do this, with little setup required.
See the Apple Remote Desktop 3 Remote Assistance tutorial here.
A: ARD/Screen sharing works super great to servers with static/public IPs. Not so great behind a NATed home router with port blocking on a dynamic IP. It can be done, but you will have to go there first to set up the port forwarding, etc.
If you have an outside server hosted somewhere, you could set up VPN on your machine and the machine you want to admin too. (That's easy to tell your parents to click the VPN icon in the menu bar).
Also, I think you can use "back to my mac" to make all this easier, but I don't know much about the details.
A: ARD works better for remote support than other VNC solutions since it seems better at controlling the bandwidth needed to send a view of the screen over a slow connection.
Other than that, it's a plain old VNC wrapper if you only care for keyboard, mouse. It is fully featured in terms of shuttering the remote screen (to hide what you are doing) as well as can be set to remotely poll lists of hardware, script and control updates to tens, dozens, and hundreds of machines.
It doesn't do any sort of location brokering, though so you'll still need to manage the routers, port forwarding, client configuration and such as well as use dynamic DNS or BackToMyMac or Screens connect.
For most people doing light support, I'd recommend the Screens program over ARD due to cost, better integration and testing of NAT and how it provides DNS tracking to let your Mac know what IP your family's Mac is using at this very moment.
A: Although Apple's Screen Sharing/ARD works well over the internet, Google's Chrome Remote desktop is the best cross-platform solution I have found so far.
Pros:
*
*It is faster than stock VNC.
*Works from/to Mac/PC/Linux (Cross-Platform)
*Encrypted (unlike stock VNC)
*Works with any NAT situation, most firewall situations
*Helper mode to work on other people's PCs
Cons:
*
*Requires Google Account login (Big brother and all that)
*Not Multi-User, only works when user is logged into the machine already
*PIN Authentication
In-Between:
*
*Requires Chrome? But only requires rights on viewer PC to install Chrome plug-ins
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6631",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Getting music from a dead iPod Touch I have a 3rd generation iPod touch with a dead battery and want to get the music off of it for my new one.
It powers up fine with the AC power cord but nothing with the PC's USB.
Any short fix besides sending it out for a new battery?
A: It sounds like your touch is consuming more power then your USB port can deliver at run-time. See if you can find a PC that can supply enough current to get it to boot on a PC and use one of those non-apple sanctified recovery software.
A: I feel like I am perpetuating a myth, but here goes:
Laptops USB drives supposedly give out less power than workstation USB drives. Try using the USB port on a workstation.
A: Have you checked the USB cable? Try it with your friends USB cable and see if that works.
Shouldn't your music be in iTunes anyway?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6636",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Mac starts up as administrator I just got a new Mac Air for my wife. Every time she starts it up (after installing software, crashes, whatever), it starts up logged in as administrator. This confuses my wife no end (where did all my stuff go?)
How can I make it just go to the login screen?
A: You can disable automiatic login by going into System Preferences, Accounts, then selecting "Login Options" and changing "Automatic login" to "Off":
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6641",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Copy tunes to 2nd PC without syncing I just purchased an album on iTunes on work PC but can't sync because it will delete all my existing tunes from the iPad (I only sync with my music at home).
Can I copy the files to my home PC manually and sync there, or will that not work because of DRM issues ?
A: If you have the same iTunes account you bought the music from on the other machine, you'll be OK. Just go to that machine and choose Store -> Authorize this computer.... You can have up to 5 computers authorized to play your DRM'd music. Also, if you want to transfer music off an iPod, there are ways to do that without erasing it. Here's a link with info on apps for that.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6647",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Does OS X file organization works like Ubuntu's? I mean, does mac have a "home" folder, and if I want to format and reinstall the system, it'll not affect my home folder? And the Desktop is a folder within the home folder?
A: OS X does indeed have a home folder, in /Users/<username> with a hierarchy of folders, including one for Desktop, in this location - similar to Ubuntu.
On most Linux distributions the /home is a different partition on the drive and formatting the primary OS partition would not erase your data. This is not the case with OS X and (unless you've made a concerted effort to the contrary) erasing the OS X drive will erase your data.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6648",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is the white MacBook suitable for software development? I'd like to know if you think the white MacBook (2.26ghz, 2gig ram) is sufficient for software development (using Xcode, Interface Builder etc...)
A: To elaborate on @Martín's answer, a MacBook is perfectly fine for development, I use one myself and never had issues.
But you could improve it. Switching to 4GB of RAM would be first thing on the list. Using a second screen could also vastly improve this setup. Another (bigger) investment would be to buy a SSD.
A: XCode 3.x (and possibly 4.x when it's released) will definitely work on that Macbook. I have an old white Macbook 2.4 Core 2 Duo with 2GB of RAM and it works. Compared to the 8 Core Mac Pro, it's really slow, but it's fast enough to use it and do things with it.
If you want to compile a big and complex project, it will of course take longer, but other than that, the hardware is perfectly capable of running Xcode and its surrounding tools.
The projects will take longer to load after a cold boot, and the whole machine is naturally more limited in terms of absolutely everything (compared to a regular Mac Pro, iMac or even a newer Macbook/Pro), but if you need a light and loyal machine, this will definitely serve you.
I'm using mine with Mac OS X 10.6.6. I remember even playing World of Warcraft on that machine a year ago.
A: I'm using an old White Macbook with 4gb of RAM and it runs perfectly.
Specifications:
*
*Processor: 2.2 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo
*Memory: 4 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
*OS: Snow Leopard
A: I own a white MacBook (MacBook4,1) with the 13" screen. I got the RAM upgraded to 4GB right when I bought it, so I unfortunately cannot say whether 2GB would be sufficient for iOS development. However, with 4GB, I run a low-profile Linux VMware Fusion VM for development, and also XCode and IB, and my system runs fine for the most part. Over the years, it has become a bit slower, though.
I'd like to point out that the 13" screen may cause problems. While it is an amazing screen in terms of display quality, it is sadly pretty small for most development stuff. I am not saying you cannot get anything done. You can. I did for over two years. But it cuts down on your productivity. In the case of Interface Builder, you will quickly feel the constraint as Interface Builder is fond of spewing countless Windows all over the place. A second display is going to help a lot, but you may probably not be able to get exactly the same quality of display on the external as you would on the laptop screen. It is something that gets to me from time to time.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6650",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Playback on ipod touch When I synch downloaded podcasts eg BBC History magazine podcast, they playback so fast on the ipod touch it is unlistenable even though it sounds normal on my laptop. Is there some setting on the ipod I need to change. Audio cds work fine on both.
A: When playing a podcast, a single tap in the album art area toggles the top bar on and off. The top bar shows position in the podcast, has an email icon on the left and a rewind 30 seconds icon in the middle. The icon on the right toggles between 1x, 2x and 1/2x speeds, so check that this is set to 1x. The icons on this bar are different for music tracks than for podcasts (repeat, genius and shuffle).
It's possible the ipod has got into 2x speed mode. I had this the other day, and either toggling the speed mode or pausing and playing again solved it, don't remember which.
Edit: today I had this problem. It seemed that the fast foward button was down, because the pause button was behaving oddly with this weeks "PC Pro" podcast, and the x1 x2 button didn't fix it. Strangley, clicking the home button until the spotlight search appeared seemed to be a temporary fix. Then playing with the transport buttons fixed it completely.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6653",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Checking for folder/file changes using Automator? Is there there a way to check a folder/file for changes (includes adding files, deleting files, changes in files,...). The 'Folder action' in Automator is only checking if any files are newly added.
A: You can add a "Run Shell Script" action with the command:
find <directory> -newermm <reference_file>
This will give you all files and directories inside <directory> that have changed since the last change of <reference_file>. Just make sure you modify the <reference_file> each time you run the Automator script.
Also give a look to the find manual page (enter man find in the terminal) for more options. Find is very powerful and further refining your search is usually a matter of a couple of additional options. E.g. to search only for directories modified after <reference_file>:
find <directory> -type d -newermm <reference_file>
If the version that ships with OSX is not enough, you can also try the version that comes with findutils (brew, macports etc) which should have slightly more features.
A: I don't know of a way to do this with Automator, but there is an app in the App Store called Folder Watch that may do what you're asking.
A: So last time I checked, Automater is using Applescript in the background to script your actions. Applescript does not have much depth to it. While it can get the list of files in a directory (and so therefore you could find out when something gets deleted), I don't believe it can calculate changes to a file.
What you really need to harness is file system notifications. And since that's a beast, I would take kraymer's advice and use launchd. It has hooks to execute anytime the contents of a folder is changed. Lingon (see also its outdated SourceForge page) is a great application for helping people jump into launchd. You can write your automator script/application to do whatever you were planning to do when your directory was modified and just have the launchd task call that.
A: You can check at an earlier answer of mine, but it sounds like you want
fs_usage -f filesys
Launchd is not the way to go for file changes, fs_usage uses the underlying machine that powers spotlight.
EDIT: I'm utterly wrong here. Launchd has exactly that functionality required, ie: do something on a file or directory change.
You make a .plist file.
Scream "XML SUX FOR CONF FILES!" ( It really does. )
and you'll want to use one or both of the keys below in your launchd job.
WatchPaths <array of strings>
This optional key causes the job to be started if any one of the listed
paths are modified.
QueueDirectories <array of strings>
Much like the WatchPaths option, this key will watch the paths for modi-
fications. The difference being that the job will only be started if the
path is a directory and the directory is not empty.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6658",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Why has moving emails from my inbox in Mail.app become so slow? Sometime in the last few weeks, Mail.app has become painfully slow when moving an email out of the inbox and into a folder. I have five email accounts that I check in Mail.app—one is pop3 and the other four are IMAP (gmail or google apps).
Moving an email from the pop3 inbox to a local folder still works fine. However, when I drag/move an email from the inbox of an IMAP account to a folder, the email in the inbox turns gray and stays there for 2-4 seconds. This used to not be the case. In the past, even though the move might take time to replicate on the server, in the inbox of Mail.app the email would immediately be removed.
I've captured a screenshot of the behavior showing the grayed out emails.
Did something change in the last Software Update? I installed the OS X 10.6.6 update on 6-Jan-11, so that could account for when this problem started.
I'm running Mail.app ver 4.4 (1082) on OS X 10.6.6.
A: Under the View menu, check Hide Deleted Messages. That way, messages marked for deletion are no longer shown, and will be processed the next sync (like they used too).
It is possible you activated it unintentionally (it's just a ⌘+L away on the keyboard).
A: I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but you might want to try out Speedmail - I used it in the past when my mail.app was getting very slow, and it made a significant improvement. I don't use mail.app any more though (I switch between GMail and Mailplane) so I'm can't check the issue you've described.
However, supposing the issue you describe is related to update, this might not help, in which case heading over to the Apple support forums might be your best bet.
Good Luck!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6659",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to disable coalescing of log messages in OS X? I've been using Console to debug some things on my Mac, and I keep seeing --- last message repeated one time --- in the log. Apparently it's not really essential, and you can turn it off on the command line with the -dup_delay switch on syslogd (see here). But how do I do that so it turns it off in the Console app? I don't want to start syslogd again, I just want to change a setting on the currently running process.
A: The Console application is simply reading the log files. I suspect running syslogd with that flag will cure your problem, as syslogd will then write the log files differently..
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6660",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can we load video onto iPad without iTunes? We have a shared iPad at work which is used for trade shows etc.
It is a pain to only be able to copy content to this from one PC, i.e. one nominated shared PC with iTunes on it. We have Windows XP on the PC currently.
Is there a decent way of plugging an iPad into an arbitrary PC and loading content on to it, while not breaking iTunes sync?
I've tried Dropbox but that will only allow us to stream the video within the Dropbox app, rather than download and save it into the Movies app. We really need to save the video content on to the iPad for offline playback.
A: You can use the "File Sharing" feature of various apps THROUGH iTunes, but without having to actually SYNC with iTunes.
Install the free CineXPlayer app. This will allow you to play a much broader range of videos.
Then plug your ipad into any computer with iTunes installed. iTunes will recognize the device, and let you browse it WITHOUT syncing it. If you go to the "Apps" tab inside the device's pages in iTunes, you'll see CineXPlayer listed below, in "File Sharing". Select CineXPlayer and drag movies to the "Documents" pane.
Ta da!
A: *
*Use a free cross-platform program like Handbrake to convert your video into an iPad supported format
*Take an SD card that you've used with a digital camera and put your movie(s) into the DCIM folder
*Use the camera connection kit to load the movie. For all the iPad knows, it's a movie you shot with your digital camera
*Note that the movie will load into your "Photos" and not your "Videos" - that means there are some limitations (no recognition of chapters, no resume functionality) but it will work very well and is a much easier solution than anything that uses a connection to a computer or to the cloud
A: "Instead of syncing have you tried the Manually Manage option? Then you can load content to it from multiple PCs without doing a complete sync. support.apple.com/kb/ht1535 – Ryan Sharp Jan 25 at 16:55"
Contrary to this being the top rated answer, this is incorrect. In order to actually choose the Manually Manage option, you must first sync the device with that target computer. I just tried it and it tells me that it will erase all content on the iPad and then I will be able to manually manage. This is a DRM requirement.
A: There is PadSync if you are on a mac: http://www.ecamm.com/mac/padsync/
A: You can also use Buzz Player or Buzz Player HD. Allows you to copy media in from a PC or other device on a network thru the wireless connect, without the need for the USB cable. It works great and you can download the app from the Apple Store.
A: I regularly do this with GoodReader. Despite it billing itself as a PDF reader, it has relatively wide support for playing various different types of videos (as well as being an all-round good file manager/viewer too). You can get files on and off in two ways, neither of which require iTunes:
*
*By using GoodReaderUSB, which allows you to copy files on and off a USB-attached computer. This is probably closest to what you asked for.
*By using the inbuilt support to expose GoodReader's filesystem via WebDAV and on a web console you can log into from any machine on the same network.
A: If you want to avoid iTunes completely, there are out there 3rd party applications to do the same, one of those is called iTransfer
It's not for free but does the job.
A: You can avoid all this iTunes/sync nonsense by letting the iPad directly acquire files via the network. I know of two apps that will let you connect to normal file sharing (SMB/CIFS) on your Mac/PC and play directly via the network or save to the ipad for offline playback. The only disadvantage is you have to play the files back using their app instead of with the built in 'Videos' app.
*
*OPlayer HD ($4.99) - Works with iOS compatible formats plus supports avi/mkv/wmv formats without conversion, transfer files with SMB, FTP, HTTP or via DropBox.
*FileBrowser ($4.99) - Same price, but only works with standard iOS compatible content (h264 MP4, MP3, AAC, JPEG, etc) and only connects via SMB.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6661",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Change the way how finder truncates file names Finder truncates file names (and other things). Is there a way of changing this behaviour?
example: i have a file with a names
long_file_name_that_i_do_care_about.txt
long_file_name_that_i_do_not_care_about.txt
but what i see is
long_file_..._care_about.txt
long_file_..._care_about.txt
So my main question is how get Finder to cut off only the end of the file so i can actually see the difference? And why is Finder truncating dates and file sizes too?
A: I don't believe there is a way to change that - it's thought that it is more common to have the part of the file that differs be at the end of the name (i.e. Holidays and other important days 2010.xls vs. Holidays and other important days 2011.xls).
As to the dates and file sizes being truncated, are you using the List view in Finder? You can change the column width to see more.
A: Try enabling Finder > View (Menu) > Show Path Bar.
Now, at the bottom of each Finder Window, you should see the path to the file and the file name. It appears that the full file name is always shown (if possible) and the truncation occurs in the path portion.
A: About your truncating issue, I don't think there's anything you can do. Except maybe trying apps like PathFinder.
About the date, if you the list view or the coverflow view, use View > Show View Options and uncheck Use relative date
A: You cannot directly set where the truncation occurs.
To avoid truncation of long file names, if you are in list or column view, you can make your columns wider. Drag the header when in list view. Drag at the bottom of the separation in column view.
To avoid truncation of dates, you can set your date preference to something short. See System Prefs > Language & Text > Formats, and then customize to a short format like YYMMDD HH:MM. You will still have to have columns wide enough to see that.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6669",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: personal folder in outlook stored on network share available on iphone? I am looking to swap out a BlackBerry for an iPhone from Verizon. On the BlackBerry we use an older version of the desktop synchronization software and I can access personal folders (Outlook 2007 and Exchange Server 2007) stored on a network share. Can you do that from an iPhone?
A: It appears that this works while using a VPN. The iPhone talks to the Exchange group policies, and can use all the mail folders (although, IMAP may be necessary for this). For more info, see this Apple doc (page 9).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6671",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: What does "plays" really count in iTunes? iTunes displays the number of "plays" for each track. What exactly does this mean?
For example, playing a little bit of a track does not seem to increment the number. But playing most, but not all, of a track seems to.
Does playing n seconds trigger the increment? n percent of the track? Or something else?
I have a 4GB iPod Mini, if that matters.
The motivation is, I have iTunes set to automatically delete podcasts after they're played, and I don't want to accidentally trigger a deletion.
A: I believe that you just have to listen to the last few seconds of a song. You can skip all of the beginning part, and it will increment the Plays if you listen to the end.
A: In the behavior I have seen in the 5+ years of podcast listening. iTunes marks it as played based on a percentage listened. My guess is that would be about 98-99% listened. A 5 minute show would basically be the end. An hour and a half show would be just the last few seconds.
A: In case Nathan G's answer wasn't super-clear: play count == number of times the file played right to the very end. That means you need to let an audio file play right to completion - either until the next track starts to play, or you are returned back to the song list (if it is the last track in the list).
A: Nathan G. answer was right but I want to add some other info, if you let iTunes play last second of your song and go to another song it ++ your plays of that song, but if you click other song to play and the remaining time of current song is <5s still iTunes ++ play for that song.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6675",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: How to disable Finder's "is available on your computer" message I've set up an SSH tunnel to SMB on a remote Windows server, and want to access it using the Finder. I set up the tunnel using the command:
ssh warren@sshserver.local -p 3484 -L 1445:windowsserver:445
(445 is the default Windows file sharing port, which I haven't changed. My SSH server is configured to use port 3484 instead of 22).
The tunnel sets up all fine and dandy. Then, in Finder, I click "Go -> Connect to Server," enter "smb://localhost:1445" and hit return. I immediately get the error "The server 'localhost' is available on your computer. Access the volumes and files locally." Except, of course, that's a dirty lie, since localhost:1445 is a tunnel, not the ultimate destination.
Is there any way to suppress this behavior and force Finder to actually connect to the tunnel despite the fact that it has "localhost" in the name?
A: You should be able to mount the server from the command line with mount_smb:
mkdir /Volumes/sharename
mount_smbfs //smbusername@localhost:1445/sharename /Volumes/sharename
A: I'd make a symlink for this. Link the smb:// address to a local folder, so you can go into that folder and see what's on the share. I haven't used symlinks for this specific purpose, but I think they should work. Interested in hearing if they do.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6677",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Edit Multiple Places in iPhoto '11? I've recently upgraded from iPhoto '08 to '11 and am in the process of cleaning up my geotagging. Most of my photos had been geotagged outside of iPhoto, but for a lot of them it wasn't as accurate as I'd like. So what I've done is flag all of the photos where I'd like to zero in a little more on the map. Working one at a time I can just select the photo and, in the info pane, drag the existing pin a little bit to a new location on the map. Works fine.
However, I have large swaths of photos which are all very nearly in the exact same spot (taken in the same room in a building, for example). When I highlight multiple photos, though, the map in the info pane doesn't let me drag the pin. (I'm guessing that the pin shown is for only a single photo, such as the first one selected.) Is there a way I can re-assign the place on the map for multiple photos?
Edit: Requested screen cap:
A: I think I've found a way. Remove any places that are already assigned to individual photos in the album/event. Then select all the photos and set a location. It should now assign that location to all the photos.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6681",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to revert to iOS 4.2 from iOS 4.3 beta? Hello all
I just installed iOS 4.3 beta version available for developers on my iPhone4. Now I want to go back to version 4.2. But iTunes displays the version 4.3 installed. How can I do this?
Can somebody throw some light on this?
Thanks
A: It seems you missed the "Read Me Before Downloading" section at the top of the 4.3 beta page:
Devices updated to iOS 4.3 beta can not be restored to earlier versions of iOS. Devices will be able to upgrade to future beta releases and the final iOS 4.3 software.
According to Apple, anyway, no, you can't revert to 4.2.
A: Well technically if you have jailbroken before and saved your SHSH you can downgrade your iphone (this should apply to all ios devices and exact steps may vary)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6685",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to replace iPhone 4 front glass? My iPhone 4 front glass broke. Screen is OK, I only want to replace the glass. Assuming I get a new glass, is it hard to replace it myself? Can anyone provide some step by step tutorial on how to replace it?
A: As with every "do it yourself" and "Apple", you have to be careful and know that it will possibly void your warranty. In any case, if you still decide to proceed with this, it is certainly possible to replace your iPhone 4's glass. There's a very nice tutorial with pictures at iFixit.
Installing iPhone 4 Front Panel Assembly
"Replacing the display assembly will
give you a new front glass panel,
digitizer, and LCD. The LCD is adhered
to the glass at the factory and the
two parts are not separable without
damage."
A: I wouldn't attempt to remove the glass from the LCD. The 4 is NOTHING like the 3. Just replace the whole thing and be done with it. You can get a new LCD assembly for under $30, including shipping, from Amazon.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6687",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How does HTML mouseover work on apple multitouch devices? I asked about this in connection with this network of websites, but it brings up a more general question that I don't know the answer to.
Is it a problem that mouse over events are not able to be invoked by apple touchscreen - especially in regard to website rollovers?
Is there a way around this?
Related:
http://meta.scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/134/how-to-see-spoilers-on-touchscreen
https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/75656/cant-see-spoilers-on-touchscreen
A: The way around this is to use a mouseover handler on a "clickable element", as Apple explain in their Web Content Guide:
Mouse events are delivered in the same
order you'd expect in other web
browsers [...]. If
the user taps a nonclickable element,
no events are generated. If the user
taps a clickable element, events
arrive in this order: mouseover,
mousemove, mousedown, mouseup, and
click. The mouseout event occurs only
if the user taps on another clickable
item. Also, if the contents of the
page changes on the mousemove event,
no subsequent events in the sequence
are sent. This behavior allows the
user to tap in the new content.
Tapping once on a clickable element that has mouseover/mousemove content displays that content. Tapping a second time does mousedown/mouseup/click.
A "clickable element" is:
a link, form element, image map area,
or any other element with mousemove,
mousedown, mouseup, or onclick
handlers.
Therefore to fix the spoiler rollovers they would have to change using CSS to Javascript (i.e. use a mouseover handler on the blockquote, rather than a CSS class).
(Apple has patent applications for detecting hovering on touch interfaces, so this could go away in the future. However, it's unlikely that will be soon).
A: There isn't a good way to do this. I've found a bookmarklet that lets you read alt/title text, but not much else. Enjoy.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6695",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: How is it possible that my Macbook Pro with a failed logic board works just fine? Some weeks ago, I went to a client's site to install a new router (Macs rock for IT work!) and when I opened my MacBook Pro (5,1) it didn't return from sleep; the screen stayed black and the indicator light glowed a steady white. I opened and closed it a couple times, but still nothing. I presumed some fault and so I hard-powered-off. When I powered back on, I got the S-O-S chimes described here (I know that article is for the Air). This continued several more times. I returned to the office and I did some searching and people recommended Cmd-Opt-P-R to reset PRAM, which I tried to no avail, until...I was pressing random keys on the keyboard and it started right up.
I had to swing by the Apple Store for another user, so I asked one of the Geniuses there what his experience was, and he told me that SOS beeping is the logic board, and that pretty much there's no hope. I was intrigued, and did not tell him that it was sitting on my desk, running fine, at that very moment.
Fast-forward a couple weeks, and my Mac works perfectly fine, except when it needs to reboot. I find that if I need to reboot, I have to clear the PRAM and then press S or C to start the computer. Sometimes it takes more than one try. It will sleep and wake perfectly every time (usually 2x per day, with car rides) and will never give a single issue while running. Not a hiccup.
Someone suggested a bad solder joint which is being affected by temperature, but I think that's not the issue: I can leave the computer in the cold car for an hour, sleeping. It wakes up completely fine. There's not enough current to be heating any part of the board to maintain contact on a failing joint. Similarly, I can finish some photo editing and the system is hot and I can close the lid, put it to sleep, and remember 'one more thing' (It's an Apple thing, what can I say?) open the lid, and it resumes flawlessly.
Everything I can find on the SOS chimes is 'Hope you got AppleCare, that means your logic board is gone, man' but that is (in this case) demonstrably not true. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Is there anything else I can or should try? This has all the symptoms of a firmware glitch to me, or some strange EFI issue. No one else, apparently is experiencing it at this time. Anyone?
A: I've heard of a logic board "limbo state" where it passes in and out of working. It is broken, but it's letting you use it until it decides to die altogether. You may as well get all the life you can out of it, but don't depend on it to heavily.
I can't find confirmation of this, but I know I've heard stories of it before. Can anyone confirm?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6696",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Uploading pictures on iPhone to Facebook application doesn't work Trying to upload picture from my iPhone to Facebook. In Facebook app, when I choose a picture and select 'Upload' I should see progress bar as picture uploads. Instead when I press 'Upload' the upload screen disappears and picture is not uploaded.
I tried closing the app and restarting it again, it still doesn't work. I reinstalled the application and then it will let me upload couple of pictures until it will start failing again.
I have iPhone 4 running OS 4.2.1
A: Go to Settings->general->Location Services, switch facebook to "ON" and try again.
Hope this helps!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6702",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Magic Trackpad / Mouse very spongy on Windows 7 with Bootcamp Update Drivers It seems to me that both, Magic Mouse and Magic Trackpad respond differently on Windows.
While using them with Mac OS X feels natural, on Windows 7 with drivers extracted from Bootcamp Upgrade, it feels spongy / laggy / delayed / with latency, no matter what the mouse settings are. So I feel like I'm not in touch with the mouse pointer (cursor).
It makes me sad that I should not be able to use this excellent hardware on my Windows PC, and I would like to know if this can be fixed.
A: I have experienced this as well (from MS mice in O SX and Apple mice in Win7). I have reported this issue -- I think Apple's "doesn't work well with Windows" bugs get tossed on the back burner and forgotten (until they start to cause a stink).
In the mean time, this is what I have observed:
*
*Completely disconnecting hardware before restart helps (Unpair/disconnect/turn off everything)
*Microsoft USB hardware needs to be physically disconnected during/before reboot to work well in OS X
*Plan B -- Use VMware Fusion to run Windows. How much is it really necessary to have fu only for serious hardware needs. I do this just so that I can use my magic mouse and bluetooth keyboard without trouble.
*Have a cheap MS USB wireless arc mouse handy (the top-heavy laser resembles behavior of the magic mouse)
Other thoughts:
*
*I had this problem in Ubuntu also -- if my MS mouse was left connected during a reboot from Win to Ubuntu (and Ubuntu to Win), the mouse would act funny. The problem was solved by disconnecting and reconnecting.
A: In regards to the Magic Trackpad, I have seen this issue as well, and found it on other sites noted as a probably bug. The workaround they suggested, which I also found beforehand, was to do a physical click (press down to make it click). After that, it becomes responsive.
A: I was having a problem with a bluetooth mouse under Windows 8 with Boot Camp. The mouse worked fine in OS X.
In the end I found there is a property on the wireless network card called
'bluetooth collaboration' that can be enabled when in Windows. This fixed the problem for me and now the bluetooth mouse works perfectly.
Open Device Manager, find the network adapter and look at it's properties. On the advanced tab find Bluetooth Collaboration and make sure it is enabled.
http://blog.craigharvey.me/2012/09/08/macbook-pro-boot-camp-and-bluetooth-mice-in-windows/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6705",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Monitoring and limiting internet usage I am currently having to access the internet through a wireless dongle which is giving me a 2gb per month download allowance. I need to be really cautious about my internet usage.
Just this afternoon I ran out due to some process downloading 600mb of something. I have no idea what it was (although I suspect iTunes) or why it would need to download so much.
Is there anyway I can monitor which processes are using the network, or failing that set up a firewall that only allows the apps I choose to have access?
A: If you install Little Snitch you can monitor which application using internet. Every time any application wants to use internet you must accept or deny it, but it doesn't have an ability to measure bandwidth usage of each application.
You can see its demo here.
A: 600 MB doesn't sound like iTunes, unless you told it to do it.
I'd look into "Software Update...", which, in its case, can have its automated run turned off so you can run it manually.
A: HandsOff! (trial available)
is a very feature rich firewall for MacOSX. The features included which you need are:
*
*prompts you when a process/applications tries to connect to the internet
*monitoring network connections
*settings rules for application's network connections
The total bandwith you see in the monitor is only since last boot.
A: I found SurplusMeter to be very effective while using my 3G USB Stick.
Here's also a tutorial.
A: You might try NetUse, $8 at the App Store.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6706",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to stop OS X from writing Spotlight and Trash files to memory cards and USB sticks? When plugging a USB stick into a Mac, OS X creates a number of hidden files on the stick, including a Spotlight index and Trash folder.
Example from the terminal for a USB stick "Untitled":
$ ls -a /Volumes/Untitled
.Spotlight-V100
.Trashes
._.Trashes
.disk
.fseventsd
It even does this on the xD memory card for my camera, so after having copied my pictures and deleted them from the card, the card is still full.
Is it possible to turn this off for USB and memory cards, so OS X either writes these files to the primary disk or doesn't write them at all?
A: MacOS now provides this direct flag that you can toggle from Terminal:
defaults write com.apple.desktopservices DSDontWriteUSBStores -bool true
A: Actually touching the .Trashes file will be the best way to solve your main problem since .Trashes is now a file instead of a folder. This means that Apple can't relocate the files to the .Trashes folder when you delete them and your drive is no longer full.
Another option is to hit Cmd-Opt-Shift-Backspace to force Finder to empty the .Trashes content on the card before you eject it.
The first method is really the best as the second affects all Trash contents on all drives.
However, it seems from your post that you are more worried about the pollution of the drive by the various dot files. If you follow the steps mentioned above, you'll save your disk space, but there will be a minimum of dot files created.
A: @ Miles Leacy's post
and @ qarma's comment:
No, this is still possible even in OSX 10.9, but you need to do a few extra steps now:
1) In Finder click Go then click Go To Folder...
2) Type /Volumes and click Go.
3) A Finder window will open, and it should say Volumes at the top.
This is the most important step:
4) Next to where it says Volumes at the top of the Finder window, there is a tiny blue folder icon. Click and drag this icon left into your Favorites panel.
5) Now you will have access to your Volumes folder anywhere, including in Spotlight settings like Miles Leacy suggested. (Whenever you need it, just click on the Favorites link to select it.)
Hope this helps,
Best,
Vlad :)
~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~
What it looks like after adding the Volumes folder to the Spotlight exceptions list:
Notice in the background you can see my post in Safari. ;)
A: Update for Catalina and later
On Catalina and later, you might get an error saying "Operation not permitted" when trying to delete metadata stores on removable volumes using Terminal. To fix this, enable Full Disk Access for Terminal in System Preferences > Security & Privacy.
Now, if you haven't done so already, disable Desktop Services Store for USB volumes and turn off Spotlight indexing for the volume:
sudo defaults write com.apple.desktopservices DSDontWriteUSBStores -bool true
sudo mdutil -i off /Volumes/<FS NAME>
sudo rm -rf .{DS_Store,fseventsd,Spotlight-V*,Trashes}
The first line disables .DS_Store files being created on USB volumes and only needs to be run once. The next two lines turn off indexing for Spotlight and delete the files. These need to be run every time the volume is mounted. Although you could add a script to launchd that will run when the volume is mounted, example https://superuser.com/a/132128
A: I use the MacOS Terminal command line to list and delete all these files and folders before ejecting the device from the desktop. For some files, you may have to sudo the /bin/rm command.
A: I use Clean Eject (free). It doesn’t stop writing the files but will intercept the drive before it gets removed, so it’s better than a tool that you have to run separate from the eject process..
In addition I use a custom Automator Service (also free) to be able to assign a hotkey to clean & eject a volume using the app.
A: Dumbest thing ever that I can't simply contribute this to
Metaxis' answer. But it's easy to create a bash script that automatically handles this for all folders in /Volumes (or a specific one if you specify). Should be able to invoke it with Automator or Applescript when a folder appears under /Volumes, then you have automatic disabling of indexing.
#!/bin/bash
if [ -n "$1" ]; then
if [ ! -e "${1}/.metadata_never_index" ]; then
echo "mdutil -i off $1"
mdutil -i off "$1"
cd "$1"
rm -rf .{,_.}{fseventsd,Spotlight-V*,Trashes}
mkdir .fseventsd
touch .fseventsd/no_log .metadata_never_index .Trashes
fi
else
# echo "finding Volumes"
find /Volumes -type d -maxdepth 1 -mindepth 1 -print0 | xargs -0 -n 1 "$0"
fi
A: To keep Spotlight from indexing non system volumes, add /Volumes to the Privacy list in System Preferences > Spotlight.
/Volumes is the point in the file system where all non-system disks are mounted by default.
A: Old question, but I, finally, discovered Asepsis. This is an open source utility that solves this age-old problem by confining all the .DS_STORE directories in one place, by default /usr/local/.dscage
After installation, and a reboot, no more .DS_STORE on USB drives, with the advantage (for some of us) of not having to disable indexing on external drives.
Since version 1.4 it also supports OS X Mavericks.
Update from Aepsis website: "Warning: Asepsis is no longer under active development and supported under OS X 10.11 (El Capitan) and later.
A: The built-in dot_clean terminal command will remove ._ files:
dot_clean /Volumes/name_of_drive
and merge them into the existing files, thus not loosing any data.
That does still leave .Spotlight-V100 and others, though.
A: UPDATED March 2018
It seems my solution is not valid anymore, the solution that works right now is proposed by @ElmerCat in one of the answers below.
He is suggesting to use CleanMyDrive 2
Deprecated Solution
As I know you have 2 choices :
*
*TinkerTool (free)
*BlueHarvest (commercial)
A: An easy way to stop my car audio trying to read hidden Mac OS files is to remove them in Windows OS. Simply copy your MP3 music to the USB stick from iTunes. Swap the stick into Windows OS and select view hidden files from folder options. This will then allow you to delete every single hidden file that your trusty Mac placed on your USB stick including those pesky .trashes files. Finally a use for Windows OS!
A: I ended up using a free app "Hidden Cleaner". My car's MP3 player was trying to read .(MP3filename).mp3 (hollow, empty mp3 files) as well. Go to Macintosh HD in Devices section on the Finder left hand menu and drag your USB drive and drop onto the Hidden Cleaner app. It will cleanup the hollow files and leave the real MP3s and will eject your USB.
Note: That is not a permanent solution. You need to do above everytime you copy files. I don't mind though.
A: Most of the solutions here are 'clean up dotfiles before eject', rather than 'prevent dotfile creation'.
In my search for a free solution for the former, I've tried a few options, and settled on the applescript here: SuperUser: Does anyone have a Mac Terminal script to remove hidden files? because it allows me to see exactly what's happening along the way.
Note in my comment on that answer that I made a small edit to get it working on OSX 10.12.1. (I'm not reposting the source in this case, as this seems a pretty 'link friendly' question).
A: *
*Insert the USB drive.
*Navigate to Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilities and open Terminal.
*At the Terminal prompt, type the following command, replacing path_to_volume with the real path:
sudo mdutil -i off /path_to_volume
*Press return.
*If prompted for a password, type your admin password, then press return.
You will receive the response:
/path_to_volume/: Indexing disabled for volume. in Mac OS X 10.4 or
/path_to_volume: Indexing disabled. under Mac OS X 10.5 or later.
Spotlight will immediately cease to index the specified volume.
*If you are using Mac OS X 10.5 or later, skip to step 9.
*At the Terminal prompt, type the following command, again substituting the correct path:
sudo mdutil -E /path_to_volume and press return
*If prompted for a password, type your admin password, then press return.
You will receive the response:
/path_to_volume/: Volume index removed.
*At the Terminal prompt, type exit then press return.
*Quit Terminal.
Thanks to thexlab.com, their troubleshooting Mac OS X e-books, and their website for the detailed explanation of why other methods sort of work.
A: Another way to deal with (just the) spotlight files, is to add that volume to your Spotlight exclude list. Plug the device in, and go to the Spotlight prefpane in System Preferences. Select the Privacy tab. Now drag that volume from your desktop up into the privacy list.. or use the + button at the bottom to add it. No more spotlight indexing will happen on that volume.
A: Update — 2021 December
I tested the latest version of Clean My Drive 2 on an M1 Mac, and am happy to report it still works perfectly. The developer continues to update and support the app, which is still free on the Mac App Store.
(previous remarks below still apply)
2017 December
You'd think after all these years, Apple would build something into the Finder to deal with this. It's still a very common problem for people using USB disks or SD cards to play media in their cars or other devices.
Nonetheless, developers have filled the void with numerous Apple-approved apps. The apps listed in previous answers might have been good at the time, but they haven't been maintained to work with modern versions of macOS.
I'd also be a bit wary of installing something that will wield total control of the filesystem, written by unidentified developers. Not wanting to deal with the App Store is one thing, but not wanting to register with Apple as a developer is another. Moreover, something from the AppStore has undergone at least minimal auditing by Apple and can be removed from your computer as easily as it is installed.
So, whenever you happen to read this "answer", its advice to you is to search the App Store for something up-to-date, well reviewed, and free.
TL;DR:
My choice on ***December 20th, 2017*** is "CleanMyDrive 2" from the App Store. Solves the problem, lovely interface, completely free. (Offers in-app purchases of customized icons. Otherwise, everything works for free.)
Tomorrow, something better may come along, but the bottom line is: the App Store has free, easy solutions to j-g-faustus' original but enduring question, posed here so many years ago — a question I had myself today.
So I apologize if this seems more like a rant than an answer, but indeed, all of the previous answers were out-of-date and didn't lead to a useful solution. Not saying something would lead more people to waste time fiddling with the Terminal or installing questionable apps. Just go to the App Store — you won't need to pay.
A: For just a particular mounted volume - like a flash drive called yourUSBstick in this example - these commands will remove existing cruft, stop Spotlight indexing now and in the future, stop the related fsevents logging, and disable the Trash feature.
mdutil -i off /Volumes/yourUSBstick
cd /Volumes/yourUSBstick
rm -rf .{,_.}{fseventsd,Spotlight-V*,Trashes}
mkdir .fseventsd
touch .fseventsd/no_log .metadata_never_index .Trashes
cd -
Other unfamiliar stuff you may still see you probably want to keep, like Apple double "._*" files and other Apple DS cruft relating to icons and window placement.
A: I got this to work on Sierra 10.12.3 in Automator.
First, I made this version of the script:
It functions the same way as freefly42's, just a different way of writing the same thing.
To translate for non-native bash speakers, what it does is:
If run with a commandline argument, it tries to see if the argument is a directory, and if that directory contains a file named ".disable_osx_metadata".
If the special file is not there, then nothing happens. That drive is ignored.
If the special file is there, the script deletes all the osx metadata and creates a few small new items which prevents anything else. For instance, creating a file named .Trashes prevents the OS from creating a directory named .Trashes and then writing files in there.
If run with no arguments, it runs itself once for each directory in /Volumes.
So, if you run it manually or click on it, it checks all attached drives.
If you create a workflow in Automator, then Automator runs it whenever a drive is attached, just for that drive.
#!/bin/bash
x=.disable_osx_metadata
[[ "$1" ]] || exec find /Volumes -type d -maxdepth 1 -mindepth 1 -exec $0 {} \;
[[ -e "$1/$x" ]] || exit 0
mdutil -i off "$1"
rm -rf "$1"/.{,_.}{fseventsd,Spotlight-V*,Trashes}
mkdir "$1/.fseventsd"
touch "$1/.fseventsd/no_log" "$1/.Trashes" "$1/$x"
Save as "disable_osx_metadata", chmod 755, copy to /usr/local/bin .
$ cd Documents/disable_osx_metadata/
$ chmod 755 disable_osx_metadata
$ sudo cp disable_osx_metadata /usr/local/bin
Then open Automator, New, Folder Action
Then I found that even in Sierra 10.12.3 you CAN still add the /Volumes directory in Automator, by a non-obvious way.
Go to Finder, File, "Go To Folder...", manually write in "/Volumes" and hit Enter.
Now this shows you a window with your HD and usb drives, but no obvious "/Volumes" folder to click on.
But the title bar says "/Volumes", and it appears at the bottom too.
You can drag the folder icon next to "/Volumes", either from the title bar or from the bottom, over to the Automator, and drop it on "Folder action receives files and folders added to:[______]"
Close Finder.
Back in Automator: on the left, scroll down and drag "Get Folder Contents" to the right and drop it.
Then on the left again, scroll down and drag "Run Shell Script" to the right and drop it below "Get Folder Contents".
Change "Pass input:" to "as arguments".
Shell:[ /bin/bash ] Pass input:[ as arguments ]
Then drag the script from /usr/local/bin onto the box under "Run Shell Script" so it says
"/usr/local/bin/disable_osx_metadata"
File, save, disable_osx_metadata.workflow
For reference, this gets saved in:
/Users/YOUR_NAME/Library/Workflows/Applications/Folder Actions
If you save something wrong, I think you have to manually navigate there in Finder to delete it.
Finally, for each new usb drive you want to protect, you have to create a file named ".disable_osx_metadata" in the root folder.
You can do it in Terminal:
$ touch /Volumes/NO\ NAME/.disable_osx_metadata
Or just keep a small text file around with a visible name (no leading dot) and copy it to the root of any new usb drive and rename it .disable_osx_metadata after copying.
That drive now gets cleaned each time you attach it from now on.
Not as clean as I'd like. You have to pollute the drive a little, in order to tell the OS not to pollute it more. There seems to be no way make the OS simply leave it alone and not add any files that you didn't ask for.
TODO: Add enable/disable functions to create/remove the dot-file.
TODO: This does not prevent the .DS_Store files in every directory.
TODO: Is it possible to package up the script and the foo.workflow file so a user can skip most of these manual directions? I see there is an "export" option in Automator that creates some sort of package file.
TODO: Possibly obsolete this whole post. This applescript + automator workflow might be better:
https://superuser.com/questions/319553/does-anyone-have-a-mac-terminal-script-to-remove-hidden-files/814104#814104
A: macOS stores deleted files in the .Trashes folder. You can stop it from doing this by turning the .Trashes folder into a file. You can do this in the Terminal:
sudo rm -rf "/Volumes/CARD NAME/.Trashes"
sudo touch "/Volumes/CARD NAME/.Trashes"
Replace CARDNAME with the name of your SD card, which you can see in the Finder sidebar.
Finder is aware of this, and when you tell it to move an item to the trash on that volume, it will warn you that the item will be deleted immediately.
A: I found this App in the Apple App Store for free and use it, and it has worked great for me: CleanUSBDrive by José A. Jiménez Campos.
A: Another OSX utility for removing these extra files is DOTCLEANER which can be found on the OSX App Store.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dotcleaner-ds-store-remover/id1113480556?mt=12
A: Currently, Cleanmydrive2 is available on the app store for free and handles this problem for user up to high sierra.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6707",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "151"
} |
Q: Jailbroken iphone not charging - neither through USB nor through the A/C adapter! I use the first generation iphone. My warranty is up like two years ago and I have already jailbroken my phone. It was functioning just fine until one day suddenly my laptop stopped detecting my iphone. I reconnected the device to a PC and the same thing happened. I guess its my mistake that I ignored it!. Then one day while I was riding on my bike,to my absolute horror the phone suddenly slipped from my pants pocket and fell on the rough concrete. I ran and checked but except for a few scratches on the back, it looked just fine, it jus got switched off. I switched it back on and it was working just fine. A week went by while I ignored my phone's inability to connect to any PC whatsoever. It was then that the issue started, Now my phone is not charging at all!. Sometimes either through a stroke of luck or a vigorous shake from me, it resumes charging! Help me out Please!. What am I to do to get it back to normal?!
A: if you still have warranty on it :
I would suggest you restoring the
iphone to factory settings and taking
it to the nearest Apple store.
else :
I believe there is a hardware issue
(loose connection). Since it is a 3G
iPhone (warranty may have expired
unless you got AppleCare), it is not
difficult to open up and see whats
going on inside.
Hope it helps!
p.s : When you say 'stroke of luck', things get interesting. You may put your iPhone in Restore mode and then see if iTunes is recognizing it (if you at least have any charge, only then will it be possible to try this!).
A: Check the cable slot on the iPhone. Is there any pocket lint in there? Try cleaning it out with some compressed air or gently clean it using a toothpick. I had some very strategic lint block just the right pins to cause this issue on my iPhone. Best of luck.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6717",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to reorder the inbox list in the Mail app I check 3 email accounts on the iPhone. So under 'All Inboxes' in the email app, there are 3 entries. How do I reorder the 3 inboxes? I'd like to put the inbox that's currently 3rd in the list to be 1st in the list.
A: Delete the accounts and re-enter them in the order you want them to appear.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6718",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How to store sleepimage on secondary HDD on Mac OS X 10.6? I have a MBP 2010 with Snow Leopard on it. I put an SSD in the place of DVD Drive and am using an awesome SSD(80GB)+HDD(500GB) combo for speed and efficiency for the right price.
All I want to do is store the sleepimage on the HDD rather than the SSD since I have 8GB RAM and I can't afford to use 8GB SSD to store the current state of my Mac. Looked for a plist to make this change but failed. Not even sure if this can be done.
I have smartsleep pref pane in case anyone is wondering. It is a handy tool(setting) but I want the state to be stored if possible!
Thank you guys!
A: Nice HDD setup!
Load Terminal.App in the utilities folder, and use the following command:
sudo pmset -a hibernatefile /Volumes/OtherVolume/sleepimage
Obviously change /OtherVolume/sleepimage to /YourOtherVolumesName/sleepimage
From explanatorygap.net.
(EDIT: that webpage shows even the author did not succeed with this method. Likely reason is the other drive is not ready to read the image when trying to wake up. Apple says the sleepimage must be on the root drive. I myself am getting a crash when trying this.)
A: Mac's normal sleep do not have a sleep image, only "Safe Sleep" or hibernate incurs one.
As far as I know, hibernate is useful to prevent slow boot-ups; i.e., a fast restore from hibernate is preferable to a slow boot-up.
Since you've transition to SSD, this is no longer true. SSD boot-ups are in the low teens of seconds (typically 12-15 secs), so unless restore from hibernate can beat that, I don't see much point of hibernate.
A: I tried locating the sleepimage in the HDD and booting from the SSD in a firewire enclosure. It worked perfectly. I use sleep very often, like 5 times a day at least. I don't want to be writing 40GB of info in my SSD every day since it will shorten its life. We will se if it's reliable with the SSD installed on the DVD bay. If not, I'll just write
sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 0
on the terminal so I get a plain sleep mode both with battery and AC power, trying to avoid running out of power while sleeping (the computer and myself).
A: This worked perfectly for me on 10.10.3 (MBP early 2011):
sudo pmset -a hibernatefile /Volumes/OtherVolume/sleepimage
I created a path on the 2nd SSD to complete the above command "/Volumes/HD2/var/vm/sleepimage".
I have my lidwake turned off so that I have to hit the spacebar to turn the comp on. This might have "helped" with the timing of things, but I didn't have any issues.
Only thing I experienced was that I had encrypted HD2, so when the comp ran out of juice and was restarted, it could not access HD2 until I had put the encryption key in which resulted in a full restart instead of from hibernation image.
Moving the sleepimage to another disk improved my time-to-sleep by minutes ( no joke ). I have the original onboard Apple SSD (older 3 Gigabit link speed) which was taking forever to save the 8 GB sleepimage but now with the image on HD2 @ 6 Gigabit link speed, sleep is back to a few seconds.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6722",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Is there any app to monitor how long has each app been actively used? What I'm looking for is basically some monitoring application, which will log how long has each of my applications been actively used. By that I mean it got focus.
The point of this would be to monitor the workflow and to see where do I spend most time.
A: I believe RescueTime will do this. It will also break down your browser usage by site, which is useful too.
A: I've used Active Timer for this in the past. Wakoopa will do it as well, but you can't get a very detailed breakdown.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6724",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why does the enter/return key rename a file/folder, instead of opening it? Is there some sort of known logic behind Apple's choice to make the enter key rename a file/folder, rather than open it as is standard on Windows and Linux?
For those of you coming here for the substitute key combination, ⌘-O and ⌘-down arrow both work. And I fully understand ⌘-down, since ⌘-up goes "up" in the directory tree. But couldn't they have made some other key combination the rename key, and allowed enter to be the "standard" open action?
I understand this is a point of view question, and you could argue Windows and Linux are the weird ones, but "enter" or "return" is, at least in my mind and experience with others, the universal "okay" key. When a dialog pops up, you can smack the enter key for the default action. When you finish typing your password, hit the enter key to submit the form and log in. In terminal, type a command and hit enter. So then why is it browse to the file, select it, and hit enter... to rename?
A: I'm with @ghoppe. Plus, you get the added bonus of avoiding the mindless or accidental opening of an application (to open a file) or executing code when you're really meaning to just browse your filesystem and, well, "Find" stuff.
A:
"enter" or "return" is, at least in my mind and experience with others, the universal "okay" key. When a dialog pops up, you can smack the enter key for the default action.
In the Finder, the default action is file management. The Finder is not a launcher. You have a bunch of files you want to rename, or move, or whatever. What percentage of files do you actually open regularly from the Finder? Why should the default action in the Finder be "Open"?
You can learn to use the navigation standard of OS X instead of ENTER/RETURN. The navigation standard is:
*
*⌘ + ↑ - goes to Parent Folder
*⌘ + ↓ - goes to Child Folder.
Over time I have found these key operations better than Windows navigation where you have to switch between ENTER and Alt+Up.
A: It's standard on Windows and Linux, not OS X. Doesn't mean it "should" be standard on OS X. :-)
I think it's simply because that's the way it's always been, since as far back as I remember.. I think even OS 6 had this. I know 7/8/9 definitely had it that way. So I suppose they wanted old users to feel comfortable making the switch to X.
A: Because ⌘+o opens it.
A: I've used Mac OS X on and off for sometime now, and I still can't get my head wrapped around the "enter to rename" functionality. In windows you press F2 to rename a file, because you're performing a function, and that makes sense! Back in OS 7 (what I used for 5+ years before switching to windows) I strongly recall using enter to open things.
I'm going to try ReturnOpen which only works on 10.3 - 10.5, so far it seems to work just fine.
http://www.returnopen.com/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6727",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "62"
} |
Q: Sync iPhone/iPad with iTunes after library rebuild Short Version
I rebuilt my iTunes library and now when I try to sync my iPad and my wife's iPhone, iTunes wants to erase and resync.
I want to know if there's a way to save the stuff added to these devices since last sync.
Longer Version
Earlier today, I added some mp3s to my iTunes library. I could tell that iTunes had moved them to the iTunes music directory, but when I searched for them in iTunes they couldn't be found.
Guessing that iTunes needed to be reindexed, I rebuilt the iTunes library by following instructions from Apple.
Tonight when I plugged in my iPad to sync app updates, iTunes informs me that this iPad is synced to another iTunes library... which, technically, it was.
I'm given two choices -- transfer purchases to this computer or erase and resync.
I'm leaning towards erase and resync. I know that I have some eBooks (not from iBook store) that I added since my last sync which I think I'll need to add again.
My wife's iPhone also syncs to this computer and is a bigger problem. Since her last sync, we took a trip to Disney World and she has a bunch of photos that we don't want to lose. (We could email/upload those)
Is there a better solution that I'm missing?
A: In researching solutions, I found this discussion at apple.com in which somebody suggests "damaging" the iTunes library. This lead to a very useful post which discusses how iTunes uses the data it has to recreate what it doesn't have and gives instructions on how to damage (without deleting) the file -- spoiler: erase the data, leave the file.
Fortunately, I had backed up the iTunes files before I recreated the iTunes library.
I copied my backed up files back into the iTunes directory and launched iTunes and rebuilt what it needed to. There were no apps listed in the Apps display though.
When I connected my iPad, iTunes didn't complain about this being an unknown device. As it started to sync, it prompted my to transfer purchases (i.e. the apps on my iPad which didn't show in iTunes) -- but with no hint of having to erase anything. The sync took longer than normal, but everything is there and I can even find the songs which were originally hidden.
iPad is fine, will sync my wife's iPhone tonight.
A: The one thing you need to watch out for is any app data that isn't backed up. When iTunes erases an iDevice, it doesn't mess around. It deletes everything. If you plug in and sync often, it backs up your data and you can restore from that backup.
All purchases on the App Store are available for re-download so you won't lose anything in just erasing the devices and re-syncing.
You can pull the images off with iPhoto, which is a really cool app! It's great for rescuing photos, but also for general organization.
A: *
*You can always import iPhone photos with iPhoto or Image Capture (located in /Applications/Utilities) instead of syncing with iTunes.
*Will transferring purchases erase your computer's library? If not, why not transfer your purchases?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6728",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: If a buy a mac from another retailer, do I get the same warranty that I would get from Apple? On this page, it shows that without the Apple Care package, you get 1 year limited warranty, and 90 days of complimentary telephone technical support on a mac.
If I buy the mac from another retailer (e.g. Amazon), would I still get these same benefits?
A: You'll get the same warranty from an authorized Apple retailer as you would from Apple directly. I don't know how prevalent it is today, but for a while you could buy refurbished Macs from non-authorized retailers and you ended up with little or no warranty. (Note that Apple sometimes sells refurbished machines that do have full warranties; the warranty's existence is dependent upon the authorization status of the retailer.)
Apple provides a way to determine which retailers are authorized on the Solution Professionals portion of their website. Be sure to check that list before making a purchase.
A: Every new Mac comes with 1 year of AppleCare. The option is to extend that AppleCare up to 3 years. And, I believe you can do this at any time, IF the Mac is STILL covered by your original 1-year. As in - I believe you can buy 2 extra years right before your 1 year (that it came with) is up.
With regards to a warranty done by "in house" staff (IE - FutureShop or BestBuy selling you one of "their" warranties, which are supposed to be better), it's usually not worth it. They usually end up sending your stuff off to Apple to fix, so you just wait longer.
A: One of the big problems you often see when purchasing from a non-authorized dealer, is they'll strip the extras that Apple bundles with the machine, and sell those separately.
There's a place near me that does that; Go to buy a replacement power-supply and they will have taken out the cord and wall-outlet adapter, and put those in separate bags, forcing people to buy them separately.
Apple's prices are reasonable, as are the prices from Best-Buy or other authorized dealers, and to avoid any BS like those other places I stick with the real-deal.
A: Yes. The warranty is on the product it does not depend the retailer.
You can extend the AppleCare warranty from 1 to 3 years within the first year of its life.
A: In the UK if you buy your Mac from John Lewis you get a 2 year warranty, but TBH the Apple warranty is really effective, it's great being able to walk into an Apple store and have them fix it while you wait.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6729",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Free or Cheaper Alternatives to Apple Remote Desktop 3 Apple Remote Desktop isn't a bad program. It's a bit overdue for an update, has some issues, but is an otherwise solid program. The big downside to ARD is the price, however.
I'm trying to find an option for teachers in primary/elementary classrooms to have all the computers in their class up on the projector (which you can do with remote desktop) but I don't want to pay the US$499 unlimited seat option (education pricing is a bit cheaper, but still too much). I'm aware you can VNC using the Finder in Snowleopard, but I'm hoping for a tidy program that can simultaneously show (view) several macs. VNC Control would be nice, but isn't necessary. Ideally (almost essential) it will use the existing screen sharing engine in Sharing.preferences.
Update
It's important that the product can show more than one screen at the same time. Logmein free is a great product but doesn't do this.
A: ARD is now available on the Mac App Store for only $79.99.
ARD aside, you can do pretty much anything ARD can do with Screen Sharing, File Sharing, scp, ssh and AppleScript.
A: LogMeIn has a free Mac/PC remote login/access service. Enjoy.
A: RHUB remote support appliances provide the option of showing more than one screen at the same time. Try it out.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6734",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: iPhone 4 does not wake up from being locked My iPhone 4 periodically does not wake up from being locked. I have to wake it by holding the home and power buttons. This is happening a lot more frequently as of late than before. It has the latest OS. It seems quite a few people have the same problem. Does anyone know a solution to this problem? None that I found on the Apple forum seems to solve it.
A: You could try going by the Apple Store to meet with a Genius (if there is one close enough to you). They have diagnostics they'll run for free to see if something weird is going on with your phone. Make an appointment online.
A: Have you tried restoring the iPhone via iTunes? You should sync the iPhone first to back up everything, then press the Restore button in the device management screen.
A: You could try to reset it: Settings > General > Reset > Reset All Settings. There might be some corrupted preferences somewhere.
Try to sync your iPhone and look into your ~/Library/iTunes/.../Logs (sorry, can't remember the exact path and I don't have a Mac right now).
And try to find out if there's a crash file that match the time of the issue. From there you'll be able to define if it's an app running in the background or iOS-related.
If none of the above, it might be hardware-related (maybe you're holding it wrong!) and will have to send it to an Apple Store.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6736",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What substances I can use to clean the touch sensitive screens like iPhone, iPad? I heard that you are not supposed to use substances containing alcohol because it will destroy the anti-grease coating layer that's above the glass.
The problems is that just water and microfiber cloth is not always enough and I want to know what is safe to use.
Update: Please do not recommend a specific product, or at least do not recommend it wihout specifing the content. This is important because most products are not usually available outside the US.
A: I've found that the best substance is no substance. If you can grab some microfiber lens cloths online, you won't be disappointed. They absorb the finger oils well. I usually just breathe on my screen a little bit, then use circular swipes with a microfiber cloth.
If you are careful, any glass cleaner is fine. The reason this isn't recommended is due to the large percent of the market that would just blindly spray cleaner all over their device (causing a short), and the other percent of the market with non-glass screens. If you spray the cloth you are using, then wipe, it'll be fine.
Update 3/21:
My favorite method now is using Zeiss Pre-Moistened Lens Cloths Wipes. They're at Amazon and Sam's Club. I keep a box in the office and box at home.
A: I've used iKlear on my iPhone and mac LCD's without any issues.
http://www.klearscreen.com/Default.aspx
A: Wiping it over a clean pair of old jeans does it for me.
A: Using pure alcohol is a bad idea in almost any case.
Check this question.
A: I find cotton very effective, completely clean, oil free and dust free within five seconds.
A: Pure alcohol is one of the only cleaners that isn't incredibly caustic, and it's actually usable on circuitry, provided it's turned off.
I would recommend a microfiber cloth such as the one that comes with the Apple iPad case, or a clean cloth sprayed lightly with any glass cleaner. It is, after all, glass. I haven't heard of it reacting with the oleophobic / lipophobic coating.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6746",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can I redeem EUR iTunes vouchers in any EUR country? Can I redeem a 50 EUR iTunes gift card purchased in Germany in any other country of the Euro zone?
A: No. You can only redeem a gift card purchased in Germany in Germany. See this Apple doc, the section called "GESCHENKGUTSCHEINE, ITUNES KARTEN, GUTHABENKONTEN UND CONTENT CODES". Google translate does a very nice job (the doc is in German).
Anyway, here's the (translated) quote:
Gift certificates, iTunes Cards, Content Codes and credit accounts that were purchased in Germany can be redeemed through the stores only in Germany.
It appears that this is the case for most countries.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6748",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to play Apple ProRes 422 outside of QuickTime? I've received a number of videos encoded in Apple ProRes 422, and it plays fine in QuickTime 7 or X.
However, I can't open them in any other player (VLC, mplayer, etc. etc.). What can I do to let other player be able to read the file?
Thanks.
A: I know that this is an OLD question, but I thought I would add to the answers posted back in 2011.
When it was released you could not open video encoded with ProRes in video players that did not support the Apple QuickTime playback architecture since ProRes was a proprietary Apple encoding format. But in late 2011 an open source decoder became available for ffmpeg as a compile in option.
Just to be clear, ProRes was never intended as a playback format. ProRes was designed as an intermediate codec for use during video recording and editing, and was a replacement for Apple Intermediate Codec. As a result, it was never intended to be used as a "playback" format. That's why you could only play it back with QuickTime or editing software.
For optimal high quality video playback across a variety of video players (that have the horsepower to play back your video) you need to encode your video as a H.264 MPEG-4 video. You will want to set both the temporal and spacial compression to minimum, and make sure that the playback bit rate is not capped in the compression software. H.264 and MPEG-4 were designed for playback, and that's why it's the main format behind YouTube, Blu-ray, and virtual all playback systems in use today. While H.265 is starting to become more common, it is not yet as widely playable across a variety of devise.
If you do want to try and use ProRes as a playback format, then you need to make sure that the player you are using connects to the QuickTime playback codecs, and that you have the ProRes decoder installed on your system. The only video player that I know that will handle ProRes (other than pro editing systems) is VLC, and you need to have the ProRes decoder installed to make this work.
A: Have you tried QuickTime's Save For Web option? This should let you save it in an MPEG file, which you can play anywhere.
A: Here is a link to the ProRes decoder supplied by Apple:
http://support.apple.com/downloads/Apple_ProRes_QuickTime_Decoder_1_0_for_Mac
I imagine the only way to get another player to handle the files is to find a way for it to piggy-back on this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6753",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can iCal merge Events of attendes into one shared event? When I want to see which Events other Users in iCal are attending through the delegates tab then I get the same entry multiple times for Events which my delegates and I have accepted. Is it possible to just show one event in some special color or else so I don't get a cluttered Month view?
A: For the moment it seems that this isn't possible. The logic behind using iCal with delegates is that you don't have the delegates tab activated all the time. Normally a delegate should only be looked at when it's needed. So the problem was more that I used the delegates tab in a wrong way ;)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6758",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why are FTP connections read-only when I use "Connect to Server..."? I'm just trying to connect to the server hosting my website through Finder, but it's always read only, even though I'm logging in with my username and password.
Obviously, I can connect with an FTP client (Fetch), and through the terminal, etc. – but what's the trick to FTP-uploading with Finder?
A: From Apple Support:
You can use the Connect To Server command to connect to an FTP server in the Finder, but you will have read-only access. You cannot copy, or upload, to an FTP volume in the Finder.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6766",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can Windows Vista be installed on Mac OS X 10.6.6? I heard that as of Mac OS X 10.6.6, Apple removed wording about installing Vista via Boot Camp, suggesting that they are no longer supporting it.
If I have Mac OS X 10.6.6 installed, can I still install a full version of Vista on it?
A: Yes, according to Apple's Snow Leopard Specs.
Boot Camp:
requires Windows XP with
Service Pack 2 or Windows Vista (sold
separately).
Also, you can install Windows 7 if you update Boot Camp. Info here.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6768",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is a rented movie tied to the download PC? Before I left work today I downloaded a rental movie in iTunes then copied the m4v to a USB key and took it home to watch. However I now can't play the file on my home PC: iTunes asks me to authorise my computer to play films purchased on my account, then when I enter my password it tells me my PC is already authorised but doesn't start the movie. Pressing play brings up the prompt again. Deauthorising and reauthorising the PC acted the same.
Does this mean the rental is tied to the machine that downloaded it, my work PC? I did not start the movie there - I simply downloaded it then copied the file. The FAQ, which I had't read beforehand, says:
If you download a rented movie on your computer: You can transfer it to a device such as your Apple TV, iPhone, iPad, or iPod if it’s a standard-definition film (movies in HD can only be watched on your computer, iPad, iPhone 4, iPod touch (4th generation), or Apple TV). Once you move the movie from your computer to a device, the movie will disappear from your computer's iTunes library. You can move the movie between devices as many times as you wish during the rental period, but the movie can only exist on one device at a time.
It doesn't discuss moving films between computers. Is that possible? The disappear bit does make me think the ITMS remembers which device the movie is officially on. Is there any way for me to recover this, or will I have to watch the film at work? I rented HD and only have a 2G iPod touch so I can't copy it to that.
Thanks. Both machines are PCs running the latest iTunes, 10.1.1.
A: Without using an iPod that supports HD movies then no. You are correct in thinking that it is tied to the device Apple thinks it is on.
Source: See Update at the bottom
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6770",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Why can't I sign into the Mac App Store after updating to 10.6.6? Ever since I updated to 10.6.6 a week or so ago I've wanted to use the Mac App Store but I can't sign in. The Sign in link and the sign in menu item neither seem to do anything. I'm signed into iTunes just fine, I can use my account on my Mac and iPhone.
I've tried erasing the contents of ~/Library/Caches/com.apple.appstore/ but that had no effect.
A: Got an answer from the apple forum.
Sign out of iTunes. Log off, log back in. Then sign into App Store, after that, sign into iTunes.
Looks like everything works now.
A: This answer didn't help me with the same problem - sign in just doing nothing at all. It turned out to be Little Snitch, see:
http://app-store-sign-in.blogspot.com/2011/04/i-cant-sign-in-to-apple-mac-app-store.html
Hope this helps someone else who's been googling for hours too!
A: If you're on a family plan, make sure that another user is signed out before you try to sign in. I tried to sign in several times and it wasn't working until I realized that a different user was still logged in. Logged out of that account and signed in with mine. Afterwards, it worked fine.
A: you will need to logout of every apple app store if you've got serveral accounts then try login with the computer thats having issues and youll see also i thought icloud was originally not gonna see or detect my login from my problem computer but but it sure as hell noticed fast also final thing with me since i have 2nd party security i entered my password and the numbers before doing anything else and somehow it registered my computer so keep that in mind type your original password in plus the numbers if you have it set up like i do then press enter it seriously shocked me! i wasnt expecting that to happen but did.
your welcome
jonathan
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6771",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Using an Apple Display Connector monitor with a MacBook Pro My girlfriend just got her bosses old PowerMac G4 and big ol' Cinema Display. It's got the ADC connector, so I'm not sure if it's relevant what the size is (and frankly I'm too lazy to measure unless it is). I'm looking to drive this off of my MacBook Pro, and her MacBook, both using Mini DisplayPort.
It looks like the prescribed solution is to daisy-chain the Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter with a DVI to ADC adapter, but there's two issues with this:
1) It costs $130. Ouch.
2) The DVI to ADC adapter looks discontinued on the US store.
Is anyone familiar with a cheaper solution that doesn't involve ordering an adapter from the UK?
http://store.apple.com/uk/product/M8661B/B
DVI to ADC adapter, UK store, £70.46
Thanks in advance for any information.
(Apparently my StackOverflow reputation doesn't cross over so I can only post one link until I get 10 reputation, so I elected to post the harder to find one. Googling for "apple mini displayport to dvi adapter" will find you the other one.)
A: Either get one from ebay as (Mike Scott suggested) or Google for a DVI to ADC adaptor. The looking I did suggests that the UK one may actually be the cheapest.
The reason they are so expensive is that ADC carries the DVI connection, USB, and the monitor's power. (That's right: no separate power cord.) Any DVI to ADC adapter you get will, at a minimum, have to plug into your mini DisplayPort adapter and into the wall. Here's Apple's compatibility matrix, but their store links no longer work.
Good luck!
A: I think your best bet is probably to pick up a second-hand DVI to ADC adaptor on eBay -- it probably won't be much cheaper, but it will be quicker.
A: A cheaper, although not as good, solution is ScreenRecycler. It costs $29.99 (with academic discounts available), but it operates over VNC, requiring the screen to be attached to a dedicated host machine, and over the network. I tried it with a PowerMac G4 on 802.11a/b and it was pretty slow, but it should work like a champ over a wire.
http://www.screenrecycler.com/ScreenRecycler.html
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6772",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: 24' iMac HDMI input solution? Are there any solutions available which will allow HDMI input on my 24' iMac?
A: Your possibilities port-wise for a 24" iMac are Ethernet, USB, and FireWire.
I've seen interesting stuff done with converting DVI video on another computer to send over Ethernet, but not at the quality I imagine you're looking for with HDMI.
USB suffers on video. It wasn't designed to handle consistent, high levels of data that represents video.
Let's skip this.
Now FireWire: FireWire's largest users are those who work with video data, and your 24" iMac has both a FW400 and FW800 port on the back. With this in-mind I went 'google-ing' and found this:
Thomson Grass Valley ADVC-HD50
Hope this ends up being a worthy solution for you, I had difficulty finding any alternatives.
Note: I wouldn't assume this thing will handle HDCP.
A: No, there aren't. The 24" iMacs don't take video input of any kind. If you had a 27" iMac, then it would take Mini DisplayPort input, and you might be able to find an HDMI to Mini DisplayPort converter.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6773",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: why does itunes "optimize" my photos every time i sync Every time I sync my ipod touch, I sit there and watch "optimizing photos x of 1000" which takes forever.
To be clear, I am not adding any more photos. Shouldn't this only be a one time thing to optimize photos?
Why does it need to do this step every time?
A: I not sure why it does it every time, but the 'optimising' is basically shrinking their dimensions to the iPod screen size, thus saving space on the iPod.
I would therefore assume that it does it every time as it doesn't save the 'optimised' ones in order to save space on the computer.
A: Is this on a windows computer or a Mac OS computer?
Check properties in itunes for options related to photos.
If you're on Mac OS check the iPhoto program for similar "ipod" options.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6778",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why won't my MacBook Pro automatically sleep? I have my MacBook set to go to sleep after 2 minutes while on battery (via the Energy Saver preference pane.) However, when I leave it idle, it only turns off the screen—it does not actually sleep. This means that if I leave it and forget to close the lid, it always ends up with a dead battery.
The system sleeps correctly if it is triggered manually ( – Sleep) or by closing the lid. I have tested it with no USB devices connected and on a fresh user account, on the chance a background program was preventing sleep. There is no relevant information printed to the Console at the time when the system should sleep.
I've performed a PRAM and SMC reset to no avail, as well as the usual superstitious Verify Disk Permissions.
Is there anything else I should try before I reinstall OS X?
This is a MacBookPro5,5 running OS 10.6.6.
It's worth noting that I suffered from this issue some time ago due to a bug in a helper daemon for the product Things, but that this issue was slightly different and involved display sleep. Also, I have verified that the helper daemon was not running during my tests.
Additional information:
I started working through the Apple document titled "Why your Mac might not sleep or stay in sleep mode." I discovered that this issue does not appear when I Safe Boot my computer. I diff'd the process lists and discovered that the following programs are only running when in normal boot, and are thus possible culprits:
*
*Quick Look Helper
*cvmsComp_x86_64
*kextcache
*launchd
*mdworker
*mdworker
*nmblookup
*vmnet-bridge
*vmnet-dhcpd
*vmnet-dhcpd
*vmnet-natd
*vmnet-netifup
*vmnet-netifup
A: To help debug sleeping issues, try the pmset command in the terminal:
$ pmset -g assertions
Assertion status system-wide:
ChargeInhibit 0
PreventUserIdleDisplaySleep 0
PreventUserIdleSystemSleep 1
NoRealPowerSources_debug 0
CPUBoundAssertion 0
EnableIdleSleep 1
PreventSystemSleep 0
DisableInflow 0
DisableLowPowerBatteryWarnings 0
ExternalMedia 0
Listed by owning process:
pid 2520: [0x0000012c000009d8] PreventUserIdleSystemSleep named: "com.apple.audio.'AppleHDAEngineOutput:1B,0,1,2:0'.noidlesleep"
In this case, it's the process 2520 messing up. Check it out in activity monitor and kill it (/usr/sbin/coreaudiod started by iTunes).
After that, run the command again:
Assertion status system-wide:
ChargeInhibit 0
PreventUserIdleDisplaySleep 0
PreventUserIdleSystemSleep 0
NoRealPowerSources_debug 0
CPUBoundAssertion 0
EnableIdleSleep 1
PreventSystemSleep 0
DisableInflow 0
DisableLowPowerBatteryWarnings 0
ExternalMedia 0
No flags for PreventUserIdleSystemSleep.
A: I’ve had this same issue with my MacBook Pro 3,1. It’s extremely frustrating. I went so far as to completely reinstall OS X, which didn’t solve the issue. This leads me to believe that it’s likely a hardware issue in my case.
I’ve given up troubleshooting the issue and just use PleaseSleep.
PleaseSleep is a utility software designed for Mac OS X that helps put your computer to sleep when you know some other app is preventing your Mac from going to sleep.
PleaseSleep sits in the background and waits for the sleep timer you set in Energy Saver preferences pane. Depending on the preferences you set, PleaseSleep will try to put your computer to sleep when the scheduled sleep timer kicks in. PleaseSleep is very easy to configure, you can enable, disable, and access its preferences via the system menu bar icon. You can choose to have PleaseSleep activate the sleep function all the time, or you can tell PleaseSleep to activate the sleep function only when certain apps are running.
A: I finally have my system reliably idle-sleeping again. I changed three things to reach this point, all of which I believe were contributors:
*
*I was low on disk space (less than 5% free) on my primary volume. The kernel was complaining about this to system.log (viewable in Console.app) about the time it should have been sleeping.
*I disabled Dropbox, which accesses the disk frequently and obnoxiously, and is reported to prevent sleep in Snow Leopard.
*I upgraded from an embarrassingly old Chromium nightly, and I'm now on 11.0.658.0 (73560). There are several bugs open about this Chrome/Chromium preventing idle sleep. However, I discovered this only after getting the system to idle sleep after a reboot with no programs running.
Technical observations follow:
It's worth noting that the Energy Saver preference pane lies a little bit. I have it set to sleep and turn off the screen after 1 minute, but the system doesn't actually go to sleep for 3 minutes and 30 seconds, give or take a few seconds to write the Safe Sleep image. The screen actually takes 2 minutes to go to sleep. I suspect this is a case of Apple knowing better than us—1 minute is probably just too fast. Regardless, this makes debugging issues like this hard because you have to wait longer than indicated to see if the system is really going to sleep.
That these two applications were contributors despite not doing anything particularly intensive suggests that Snow Leopard changed something about how the system decides whether idle sleep can occur. There is a documented API for disabling idle sleep, but it also appears that disk activity (specifically writes) more than once a minute also resets the sleep timer and thus delays sleep. Any application that writes frequently is thus a possible cause. sudo fs_usage -e grep -f filesys | grep -e write in a Terminal window can help reveal culprits.
A: Might be Spotlight indexing. You could test this by going to System Preferences > Spotlight > Search Results and unchecking everything. Then see if your MacBook goes to sleep.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6787",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: Why is Google maps (the built-in app) so slow on the iPhone 4? My Google Maps app for iOS has gotten too slow to be useful at times. It doesn't seem to be a bandwidth issue, as it even affects typing- there's often meaningful lag from when i type a letter until it appears.
I've tried a full restart. Any ideas?
A: From a MacRumors.com forum post:
My problem: Typing on the Google Maps app was very slow, independent of network connection.
My solution: Apparently there are issues with the GPS multitasking. I went to Settings > General > Location Services. Notice you can toggle the GPS for each app. Apps using the GPS have a purple arrow next to the ON/OFF switch. I turned location services off for every other app with the purple arrow. I went back to the Google Maps application and everything worked well.
This might not work for everyone but it worked for me.
A: I had this problem. None of the suggested fixes worked. I deleted the app from my phone, then reloaded it. When asked about the app tracking my location, I opted for "Always" and the app has worked fine ever since.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6789",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.