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Q: How to access ProXPN's settings? I installed ProXPN on my Mac and successfully used it. It installs an icon in the menu bar which you can use to enable and disable the application. I was messing around with the settings and clicked on the option which said something like "show icon near spotlight icon in the menu bar". After restarting my computer, I no longer see the icon in the menu bar. When I try to launch the application from my Applications folder, it doesn't seem like it's doing anything.
How can I access the program or its settings?
A: I tested this on my mac, and all this seems to do is to not place the icon next to the spotlight icon. When I relaunched proXPN, it placed the icon on the left side of all icons on the top. At first, I couldn't see it either but that was due to the app I had open having too many menu items taking up real estate - I switched to finder and voila! There the proXPN icon was.
A: It seems that the problem is that when you launch ProXPN and you are not connected to a wireless network, it does not launch.
You must first connect to the wireless network, and only then launch ProXPN.
If you have set up ProXPN to launch at start up, it will work as long as your computer is set to automatically connect to a network, which will probably happen before ProXPN is launched automatically.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7557",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: What are the risks of connecting a MacBook to an insecure wireless network? What privacy and security risks am I exposing myself to when I connect my MacBook to an open insecure wireless network?
Are there any risks that are worse or better when compared to a Windows PC that's connected to an insecure wireless network?
A: Just because we're rocking a very secure OS, doesn't mean viruses, malware and the like can't happen. Be vigilant, all the time. It is a misconception that you are not prone to virii. Basically: all the same risks as if you connected a PC laptop to an insecure wireless network. Just with a lower probability of getting attacked.
A: The primary concern is that any HTTP communications (and other non-secured communications) could be intercepted, including cookies, which often contain your login information. Note that secure communications (HTTPS) have other methods to keep your information safe, so financial communications are usually safe.
The secondary concern is that your Mac can be directly attaqued by any
other computer within a 50 m radius. If your Mac doesn't have its firewall on, then this attack may lead to some file access (through guest account), and some remote control (through Apple Remote Desktop, VNC or more secret system vulnerabilities).
This security risk exists equally whether you are using OS X, Windows, Linux, or any other operating system, and there are no additional risks (nor less) on any platform.
A: the simples trick is:
1-someone is looking over your shoulder what you typing (in public place)
so DO NOT type, use copy/paste for password (stored previously in a document !) so they do not see which keys you are using.
2- Turn on Firewall, use only httpS in your browser ect...
3-What kind of Public WiFi are you connecting to?
3.1- one where you just jump on (fully open).
3.2 Anyone with logon info can join (bars, hotels, ect (still risky).
3.3 Connecting to a public router (with many others) but you have your unique/personal log in (only router owner/administrator can screw you).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7558",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: Mac Pro video card recommendations I am looking for recommendations for a video card for my Mac Pro version 2,1 circa spring 2007. It currently has the ATI 512MB card that Apple sold as an option at the time.
Are there new cards on the market that would work with this machine? My main reason for asking is that the current card is overheating and crashing the machine.
A: There are very few video cards that will work with the Mac Pro 2,1. When Steam was released in early 2010 and I realized that the stock video card did not have enough power to run Steam games, I searched for a replacement. I ended up purchasing the nVidia GeForce 8800 GT 512MB Video Card from a vendor on eBay. It wasn't especially cheap; it cost me about $260.
My criteria were as follows:
*
*Must provide more graphics power than the card it was replacing.
*Must be a drop-in replacement for the stock card; I did not want to mess about with stuff like reflashing the ROM on a card that was intended for Windows machines, for example.
*Not obscenely expensive. The card that I bought really pushed the limit; I had originally wanted to spend no more than $150.
The 8800 GT provided enough power to run Steam games, and also improved screen redraws for everyday work, including my light-duty work in Photoshop and InDesign. Though the 8800 GT is a couple of generations back in terms of the hard-core gamer crowd, it should serve well as a more-powerful replacement for the stock card.
I'm pleased with the result, as it has allowed me to extend the operational life of my Mac Pro.
A: Sounds like its a X1900. I know the 3870 that ATi later put out was compatible (it worked even with the originals.) Because they are the same architecture the 4870 will likely work as well. Also found this so it looks like the 8800 GT is an option.
Don't bother with the ATi 2600 as a replacement, it a piece-of-s@#$ card.
Be careful with whichever card you ultimately decide and make sure its confirmed to be working. More recent models of the Mac Pro did have gfx cards that weren't compatible with older models.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7561",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Wet iPhone 4 doesn't know its IMEI and ICCID and displays connect to iTunes but lacks passcode Well, due to a bit of an accident, my iPhone 4 got wet. The bright side is that it seems to not have suffered CPU damage, since it still boots up fine. The downside? It displays the connect to iTunes screen, and doesn't know its IMEI and ICCID when the information icon is selected. Naturally, I connect the phone to iTunes, since that's what it wants. Unfortunately...
iTunes could not connect to the iPhone "iPhone" because it is locked with a passcode. You must enter the passcode on the iPhone before it can be used with iTunes.
And naturally, there's no place to enter the passcode on the iPhone, as it continues to display the connect to iTunes screen. Now I suppose I could take it in to Apple, and they'd probably give me a replacement if I'm lucky (I hear water damage isn't covered), but I'd prefer to get this phone working again, since I haven't backed its photos and contacts up before. (I do know it still has those before when I go to the emergency call screen, it does display my normal photo background as the background). So any help?
A: I dropped mine into water shortly after buying it and I saw some weird behaviour too. I figured that it was submerged for such a short time, less than a second, that not much water would have penetrated the case so that maybe the weird behaviour was down to some shorting that was happening in the dock connector and the headphone socket so I made sure these were clean and entirely dry. I plugged a dock connector in and out lots of times and after a day or so the weird behaviour stopped. You can also try putting the phone into a bag of rice which will dry out any residual moisture. You could wrap it lightly in tissue paper to prevent any small pieces of rice from entering the body of the phone.
A: Beautiful for you, Apple just changed their water damage policy to be covered under warranty! If possible, take it to an Apple Store and have them look at it. They can probably fix it if you think that you can, and then you can back it up before getting a replacement. Win Win.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7565",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I enable magic mouse momentum scrolling in Windows 7? I have my magic mouse and I've gotten it working with windows 7. Left and right click work as well as scrolling.
Now I want smooth/inertial scrolling as well as middle click. Is it possible?
Also is there a way to imitate the ability in OS X to scroll any window regardless of whether or not that window has focus?
A: Answering the second part of the question, KatMouse is your solution. It brings very Mac-like cursor/scroll interaction to Windows.
A: I don't believe there is any way to setup middle click unless you do something like map a key/mouse combination to middle click in some applications. The fact that the magic mouse doesn't have a middle button means you can never 'tell' window that you've pressed it. If someone wrote a driver which accepted both right & left buttons being clicked as a middle click that might be possible but I don't know of anything which exists which does that.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7573",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: DVD to iMovie converter for Mac 10.4.11 First of all, is there such a thing? All I want to do is be able to import film clips from DVDs into iMovie so I can make groovy youtube videos. Any suggestions for a Mac 10.4.11 user?
A: I use HandBrake. It's free and open, and works nicely.
A: You have so many choices on OS X. Here it goes, take a look at this tutorial link for your question answered step by step.
Other excellent (and easy!) software to use are:
-iRip it from The Little App Factory
-Permute from Fuel Collective
-iFlicks from Jendrick Bertram
I translated the last one in French for...French users ;)
Hope this will help you!
A: MacTheRipper also does a decent job of this, although the author makes it deliberately hard to get hold of. You need to join the forums at http://www.ripdifferent.com/forum to get download instructions.
A: Rip the DVD to an iMovie supported video format such as mov or mp4.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7581",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Any quizPack format spec? I'm a Windows software developer interested in reading the .quizPack file format. It is designed for Apple iQuiz software, and contains text quizzes for iPod. The text file format, unpacked from quizPack, "trivia.txt" is fully documented here. But how to unpack these files?
I cannot find any specification of this format on Apple website or elsewhere.
Here is a downloadable example of quizPack file.
This format can be created, for example, by iQuizMaker software. iTunes can read these files and export them to iPod as "unpacked" quizzes.
A: Okay, I dug into this and found that you have a couple of misconceptions, but it now all makes a little sense.
The page How to Install an iQuiz Package? says:
Shared iPod Quiz (iQuiz) games on iquizshare.com come in three formats:
*
*Flat file format (e.g. history_albert.txt).
*Zipped package, which contains readme, trivia.txt, and maybe some customized artworks in .tga format.
*QuizPack format, which is created using Aspyr Media iquizmaker software.
That third format? It's created by Aspyr software and read by Aspyr software—and nothing else. It's not an Apple format at all.
If you have a .quizpack file and you want to read what's in it, here are the steps:
*
*Go to iquizmaker.com and download the free iQuiz Maker software (available for both Mac and Windows).
*Install iQuiz Maker.
*Launch iQuiz Maker, choose File > Import, and then open your .quizpack file.
Doing this creates the file (and any necessary folders) ~/Music/iTunes/iPod Games/iQuiz 1.0/<quiz name>/trivia.txt (Mac) or ~\My Documents\My Music\iTunes\iPod Games\iQuiz 1.0\<quiz name>\trivia.txt (Windows).
*Quit iQuiz Maker, as you've got what you want.
You can't do these steps in reverse to turn a trivia.txt file into a .quizpack file, but given that the .quizpack file is fairly useless, there's no reason you'd ever need to.
Old version:
Can you give an example of what kind of file you have, and what you mean by "unpack"?
The article you linked to says that:
The text-based data files you create are not compiled or put into any unreadable form.
and
Tip: If you're curious and you've enabled disk access, you'll find your games in /Volumes/(name-of-your-iPod)/iPod_Control/GameData_RO. One of the folders in that directory—possibly 11002—contains the iQuiz game. In that folder, look under UserTrivia/Packs to discover your user-installed game sets.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7587",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: For least power usage, should I turn off or put my Mac to sleep? If I'm not going to be using my Mac for a while, am I better off shutting it down completely or just putting it to sleep?
Obviously it uses more power to "sleep" than to be off completely, but it uses much more power during the boot up and shut-down stages... Presumably, if I'm going away for a couple of minutes, I'm better of sleeping it, but if I'm leaving it for some longer period I should shut it down completely (assuming I know how long I'll be away for!).
How can I tell when to shut it down vs sleep it?
I'm interested in knowing the answer for a few different, specific models (me/friends/family):
*
*Mac Mini (late 2010)
*MacBook Pro 15" i7 (late 2010)
*MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo (late 2007)
*MacBook 13" Core 2 Duo (mid 2008)
But of course it'd be useful to have some more generic information for others too.
A: I have a fairly generic (mathematical) answer, but can only find some of the actual numbers.
After finding the 2010 Mac Mini Environmental Report from Apple, there are four important numbers:
*
*Tbooting = The time taken to boot up and shut down (s)
*Pbooting = The power consumption while booting or shutting down (W)
*Psleep = The power consumption while sleeping (W)
*Poff = The power consumption while off (W)
The last is actually stated in the Mac Mini's environmental report, and for very low sleep power usage can't just be ignored!
The total energy used during a period of sleep is:
Esleep = time * Psleep
The total energy used from shutting down, being off for a time and booting up is:
Eshutdown = (time * Poff) + (Tbooting * Pbooting)
Requiring that Eshutdown < Esleep, we can rearrange the inequality to give:
time > Tbooting * ( Pbooting / (Psleep - Poff) )
The Mac Mini's environmental report provides Psleep and Poff, and if we assume say 90 seconds total booting/shutting-down time and about 35W during said times, this would give an answer of 45 minutes.
I've yet to find similar values for the laptops (they make a big deal about the Mac Mini being so energy efficient), and the booting power/times would really need to be measured to provide accurate figures. But it surprised me that it was only 1 hour (I was expecting somewhat longer based on claims I've read in the past, that went along the lines of this discussion).
As @mankoff points out, there's another option which is to hibernate using something like DeepSleep. In my experience this is usually faster than a full shutdown, and of course it uses the same (incredibly low) power while off/hibernating. So to compare mathematically, you can consider it a "shutdown" of sorts and use the same equations (with the time taken to enter and recover from hibernate as Tbooting and the power usage while it swaps between RAM and disk as Pbooting). More than likely, this will reduce the the time answer since Tbooting should have been reduced somewhat.
A final thought is that laptop batteries seem to lose voltage over time, even when off, at a higher rate than the Mac Mini's advertised Poff. So the Poff value might actually be quite a bit higher for a computer with a battery, which may significantly lengthen the threshold between standby and shut-down/hibernate (however the battery and charging circuitry will complicate measurements of Poff). And to further complicate things (and possibly ruin the whole argument!), more recent Mac laptops will write the contents of RAM to the disk even when they go to sleep, in case your battery runs flat while sleeping (effectively preparing for a hibernate in case it's forced).
A: You are asking a very specific question:
How can I tell when to shut it down vs
sleep it?
If you want to know exactly when the time window is where the cost benefit changes from sleep to off, or vice versa, you'll want to buy a Kill-a-Watt and collect some data, such as exactly what the sleep power draw is of each of those systems, and what the boot power draw is.
I expect the power draw will be a function of temperature, among other things. And the cost might be a function of time-of-day, depending on your power provider.
A 3rd option to complicate the choice is hibernate mode, easily available via the DeepSleep widget.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7588",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: I have 21.5GB free. Why won't my MacBook Air 2010 let me use Boot Camp? I'm trying to install Windows 7 on my MBA, 2010.
I open up Boot Camp and attempt to use it, but after the first screen it comes up with an error saying it can't install unless theirs 10GB of free disk space. Right now my HDD has 21.5 GB free. Disk Utility won't let me partition my drive either, so a manual install is out of the question.
I need help! My original thoughts were that my disk needed to be defragged to get 10GB of contiguous space. Is this a possibility?
A: To expand upon my above comment:
64GB is just not very much space, especially when you consider updates, your own programs, data, etc etc.
My recommendation, if it is possible and available, is to run Windows XP from a USB drive. There are a handful of documented procedures for getting WinXP on a flash drive and running it from there. I would recommend following this TechRepublic article to get it all set up for that.
This should negate the issue with Boot Camp, let you keep the 64GB of HDD space to your trusty OS X partition, and hopefully provide enough room on your flash drive for WinXP to grow with applications as well.
Hopefully there is nothing Vista or Win 7 specific that you need to do. Good luck!
A: Unfortunately the solution is not a great one.
I had a similar problem on my MacBook a while ago, and the problem is actually due to file fragmentation, however no defrag tool could actually solve the problem. There are various solutions on Google indicating that a defrag does work, but I had no success with any of them.
The problem is related to how the files are spread on the drive, and BootCamp requires a continues 10GB or more of free space on the drive to be able to create the required partition.
The only way I got around the problem eventually was to format and reinstall the drive.
My honest advice is to look at using something like VirtualBox which is free, and create a virtual image for Windows. Depending on what you need to do, you can get away with a relatively small image. Windows 7 can run quite happily with only a 1GB of RAM if you don't need Aero. You can also look at paid for options like Parallels or VMWare Fusion
Alternatively, you could look at installing Windows on a secondary drive via USB. The speed won't be great, but if again, depending on what you need it for, it might be a sufficient solution.
A: MacOSX has a defragmenting utility that is run in the background when your Mac is idling. It's possible that the "Free Space" being shown in Disk Utility is not accounting for any swap space that the Hard Drive uses. If you are down to about ~20GB of free space, it's probably not enough free space for the Disk Utility to move all of the essential files it needs to move in one piece to fit a new partition in that new space. I might also mention that even if you were to be able to get fit a 10GB partition into that ~20GB of free space, you would only have about ~10GB of free space left on your hard drive which is probably getting close to the point where your system slows down enormously because there isn't enough space on the hard drive to do all of the tasks it needs to do with moving files, file swap, etc.
My best advice would be to use a utility like GrandPerspective (http://grandperspectiv.sourceforge.net/) which basically shows you a picture of all the 'stuff' on your hard drive and might give you an idea of some files that you can get rid of and what might be eating up a lot of space.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7595",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is MotionX GPS capable of caching Google Maps Tiles? I've read this post here: How can I save Google Maps in iOS for offline use? but it didn't mention anything about MotionX GPS caching Google Maps tiles. I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) that it can cache proprietary tiles or Bing tiles or something, but can it cache Google tiles? That would be sweet if it could!
A: From the MotionX GPS manual:
Unfortunately due to Microsoft restrictions on Bing maps and Google restrictions on Google maps, these maps types can't be cached or stored onboard. By contrast, MotionX road and terrain maps may be cached and downloaded.
A: Yes.
Previous answer was correct that it is against the terms of service and licensing agreements, but incorrectly answers the OP's question.
The application is (successfully) able to cache Google map tiles (specifically, terrain in the below example) with the following URL scheme: http://mt1.google.com/vt/lyrs=p&x=[X]&y=[Y]&z=[Z].
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7598",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: When minimizing, not have new window of same app come to focus There's a couple of behavior's that I find very frustrating, and no luck yet in fixing them:
Imagine chrome with multiple windows open. There's one in front, then another application, then the other chrome windows. When I hit apple + M to minimize, another chrome window pops up, rather than showing me the other application, which would be desired.
Similarly, if I have chrome windows on multiple desktops. If I'm using one application on the first desktop, go use chrome on the second, and switch back to the first, chrome will appear on top when all I want is the original application!
The wrong window appears on the foreground in leopard.
Thoughts? Thanks!
A: Have you considered using CMD-H to hide the application instead of minimize it? If you minimize a window, the app that owns that window is still the focused app, but if you hide an application, it will change focus to the next app in the switcher.
I can't help with the second part of your question. I assign apps to spaces so they don't clutter my spaces (even though they do sometimes - I'm looking at you, Photoshop).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7607",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: When opening a DMG file, how do I get it to open up in front of the windows? Whenever I download a .dmg file and then open it (usually from the download bar in Chrome), it opens up in the background. Is there any way to get it to open up in front of my window?
Edit
To clarify: I want the DMG window to pop up as the active window.
A: I created a Folder Action script in Applescript, that might do just what you want.
Copy and paste it into a new Applescript, and save it as an Application (without a starting dialogue!) into "/Library/Scripts/Folder Action Scripts/".
You can then attach it to any folder (most likely your ~/Downloads/ folder ) by right clicking on the folder and selecting "configure folder actions" from the services drop-out menu. Activate Folder Actions and let the script watch the folder.
What the script basically does, is react on items dropped into the folder it´s attached to and if the dropped item is of Kind:"Image" it attaches the Image as a Volume via the "hdiutil" command line tool.
You can configure it´s behaviour by setting the openWindow and makeFrontmost properties in the Script; this can also be done by double-clicking on the Script after you have saved it as an application - it will then ask in two dialogues on what it´s standard behaviour should be.
I hope this helps,
Asmus
property openWindow : true
property makeFrontmost : true
on run
display dialog "Do you want to bring the Finder to the front after new items are added?" buttons {"Don't Activate", "Activate"} default button 2
if the button returned of the result is "Don't Activate" then
set makeFrontmost to false
else
set makeFrontmost to true
end if
display dialog "Open Folder after adding new files?" buttons {"Don't Open", "Open"} default button 2
if the button returned of the result is "Don't Open" then
set openWindow to false
else
set openWindow to true
end if
end run
on adding folder items to thisFolder after receiving addedItems
repeat with i from 1 to number of items in addedItems
set itemKind to the kind of (info for item i of addedItems) as string
if itemKind is "Disk Image" then
set itemPath to (quoted form of POSIX path of item i of addedItems)
try
showImage(itemPath)
end try
end if
end repeat
end adding folder items to
on showImage(itemPath)
set volumeMountpointInfo to do shell script "/usr/bin/hdiutil attach " & itemPath & " | grep Volumes"
if (openWindow is true) then
if (makeFrontmost is true) then
tell application "Finder" to activate
end if
set currentDelim to text item delimiters
set text item delimiters to tab
set volumeMountpoint to POSIX file (text item 3 of volumeMountpointInfo)
set text item delimiters to currentDelim
tell application "Finder" to open folder volumeMountpoint
end if
end showImage
====
second Applescript to determine the kind of file dropped into a folder
On adding folder items to thisFolder after receiving addedItems
repeat with i from 1 to number of items in addedItems
set itemKind to the kind of (info for item i of addedItems) as string
display dialog itemKind
end repeat
end adding folder items to
Edited Needs to be "Disk Image" rather than "Image"
A: From what I can tell, OS X will only automatically display the contents of a disk image if it is read-only. This is indicated by a pencil with a slash through it in the bottom left of the Finder window when viewing the image's contents.
If you want to change a disk image so that it will do this, you can make an existing disk image read-only by using Disk Utility. Unfortunately, this won't change the behavior for incorrectly-produced images you may download from the Internet.
*
*Mount the disk image you want to auto-open.
*Open Disk Utility by searching for it with Spotlight.
*Select the "New Image" icon in the toolbar.
*Name the file and select "read-only" under "Image Format."
*Click "Save." When you mount this new image, it will automatically pop open a Finder window.
A: This probably does not answer the question sufficiently either, but...
If you press command and click on the item in the download bar, it shows the item in the finder. At that point, simply pressing command-O (or double-clicking the dmg file) will mount it and open it in a new window in the foreground.
| {
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"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7608",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "21"
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Q: What are the differences between journaling HFS+ and non-journaling HFS+? I'm about to format an external hard disk drive (HDD).
What are the key differences between journaling HFS+ and non-journaling HFS+? Apart from the fact that one has journaling and the other does not, how does it affect the drive's performance (with numbers)?
My gut-feeling is that in "normal" use journaling would be the way to go, but are there any situations where non-journaling HFS+ should be considered? Linux compatibility is one, since it seems that the kernel's hfsplus module supports read & write on non-journaled HFS+, but only read on journaled HFS+.
Anything else worth mentioning?
A: Journaling adds delay and complexity to every operation that will get journaled. Journal writes force data to be written immediately to the drive which can make other outstanding drive transactions slower.
A nice treatment of what journaling does is in retired Technical Note TN1150: HFS Plus Volume Format.
The journal area on the file system is written heavily and forces the OS to hard sync data on a regular basis. This can interfere with large read and write operations that are happening at the same time as a file system modification that requires journal entries.
The advantage of a journaling system is that at mount time, the system can easily complete whatever file creation or directory modification entry that was in the middle of being attempted. The filesystem itself is repaired and made into a consistent state with extreme rapidity compared to a full file system catalog check.
For beginning users - having a computer ask them to repair a disk is not fun and provokes uncertainty and forces them to learn a bit about how things work. Yes - it brushes under the rug the fact that they could lose that one picture they were just downloading or moving. In practice, common sense ensures that even new users double checks the file before deleting it off the camera when the "darn computer" reboots in the middle of copying their photos to iPhoto. (More likely they call their support system for help at this point if they even notice the next boot was slower or it happens more than twice a week)
For advanced users that want the fastest performance, the benefits of journaling start to look more like penalties at the price of slower performance. These penalties can be substantial if the system is already near capacity or needs maximum performance for large sustained data transfers typical of pro video or some database workflows.
Things like these are good reasons to disable journaling:
*
*database storage files
*redundant machines with data healing routines after a failure
*RAID storage that takes care of journaling and more
*just needing extra speed no matter the cost
A: I don't have numbers to back up the statement, but using HFS+ non-journaled is a good idea in certain volumes that require absolute speed, without worrying (too much) about a possible "data loss" or "data corruption" in case of power failure or similar.
When is using HFS+ Non-journaled a BAD idea?
*
*External (USB, FW, ESata) drives that are connected and reconnected often: It's usually a bad idea, since these drives tend to be accidentally disconnected very often and or their power sources unplugged.
*Partitions where data integrity is important and protection from an unexpected power loss is a must. (Documents, Music, Videos, Backups, etc).
When is using HFS+ Non-journaled a GOOD idea?
*
*Scratch, Temp, trivial storage and similar drives and partitions, where speed is > data integrity in case of power fail. You want your Final Cut scratch volume to be non-journaled (you do have an UPS anyway, don't you?). You want your Photoshop temp to be non-journaled. Drives to copy stuff around (a Pen drive for example if you take care of properly ejecting).
*Any other drive that requires portability and compatibility like you correctly pointed out.
Remember, maintaining the journal adds a small overhead, but the benefit in case of improper volume dismount are important, no only to avoid a full disk "scan" at startup or re-mount, but also in terms of making sure that data is not corrupted in the first place.
Mounting a non-journaled drive that has been incorrectly unmounted, will cause a fsck scan, whereas the journaled drive will be able to be up and running in a shorter period of time (scanning the journal and applying uncommited transactions).
Regarding Speed and tests, I don't have much info to back up the above claim, however, as far as I know the speed difference not only is very small and even hard to notice, but in some case Journaled filesystem is faster than non-journaled.
Turn out that despite the overhead of the journal, some operations can be made asynchronously in the Journaled drive, whereas the non-journaled version has to perform things synchronously.
For reference I googled a little bit trying to find an old comparison (the numbers are probably valid since HFS+ hasn't really changed much since their first iterations in OSX, other than adding Inline Attribute Data records, and access control list file security and maybe something else.
Here's the website with the charts:
Comparison Between HFS+ Journaled vs HFS+ Non-journaled
TL;DR:
The file copy/duplicate/copy sequence
was pretty much equally fast for both
journaled/non-journaled HFS. The same
sequence with the folder was again
somewhat faster with the journaled HFS
(emphasis mine)
Conclusion
I am somewhat surprised to see the above results, as I was kind of convinced that using Non-Journaled was really faster for some operations, but apparently the little cases where it can make a difference, it's overweighted by the "safety" of Journaling.
A: You could have a look at the developer tools to compare disk performance of different filesystems if you were so inclined, there's a guide here: http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/DOCUMENTATION/Performance/Conceptual/FileSystem/Articles/MacOSXAndFiles.html
I can't find any comparison with hard numbers but it probably goes without saying that a journaling filesystem offers fault-tolerance but a non-journaling filesystem offers better performance
I added the file-system tag too
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7609",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "43"
} |
Q: How do you use your iPod shuffle or nano? I bought my first Apple product a few months ago, an iPod shuffle, a tiny little music gadget that's fun to play with. However its getting a little boring because I don't know what I can do with it or places I can use it. Currently, I'm limited to listening to it during sleeptime as a lullaby machine. What do you do with your iPod shuffle/nano? how do you get the most out of it?
A: Nanos or shuffles are great for workouts at the gym or while running. You can use them just about anywhere. I personally use a Classic for my stuff, but the nano is great if you have a smaller library or want something very mobile.
As far as what you can do with it (other than playing music), it really depends on which generation you have. You obviously can't really run 'apps' on it, but many generations (of nanos) had some small games, radios, could play video, etc.
A: My shuffle has two playlists:
*
*Sleep: Thirty minutes of soft instrumental music followed by nine hours of rainfall
*Wakeup: One hour of four- and five-star songs lasting two to five minutes that have not been played in the past six months
It needs a recharge every two days.
A: I use my iPod nano in the car to listen to podcasts during my commute. I have a Belkin TuneBase FM Transmitter—the older model of what's shown below—so that I can listen using my car's stereo.
A: On my iPod Shuffle (Gen 3) I have one playlist, "Gym" - mainly fast paced rock and electronic music, I use this while I'm training. The shuffle is ideal for this as it is lightweight and clips to my gym kit unobtrusively.
That is all I use it for as have an iPhone, so use that as my day to day device, however, even the 2GB Shuffle will hold 12 hours of music if you want to listen to it at work etc, although I appreciate it is a bit trickier to navigate music.
A: I use may 6th gen nano (the touchscreen one) as a pedometer and a flashlight when my iPod touch runs out of battery. (Also as practice for iOS accessibility gestures.)
A: I have a long commute to and from work and I find that whether I am in the walking part of the commute or the part that involves buses and trains, it helps me relax, pass time faster or wake up better depending on the tracks I decide to play.
If I'm at home and want to work on artistic projects, it's also great to use in conjunction with speakers (I use a Bose SoundLink mini).
Once I played music while taking a bath it was really nice.
Based on how many songs play, you can know exactly how much time passed. Just try to remember the name of the first and last song, and when you're near your computer plug it to iTunes and click from the first to the last song and the total duration will be displayed.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is it possible to create a Wi-Fi hotspot from iPhone that's not ad-hoc? First off, I am well aware of how to—in general—create a wireless hotspot using an ad-hoc network directly from my iPhone.
I have previously used the latest version of MyWi (version 4.12.6 at time of writing) but it creates ad-hoc networks and this doesn't work for me.
I do not want to and cannot create an ad-hoc network from my iPhone to allow another device to share its connection (must be wireless, as bridged connections don't help either).
Does anybody know if this is possible?
A: In iOS 4.3 there will be Personal Hotspot integrated in firmware. Just wait
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why do I occasionally get the message "could not activate cellular data network" when opening the sms app? It pops up a message telling me this which means I have to tap 'OK'
This is seriously annoying, does anyone know why this happens and what terrible event it is supposed to help me avoid?
A: This is annoying but you can't turn it off unfortunately. If the iPhone detects a momentary loss of connection to the cell tower and it believes the user is interacting with the phone then it will pop this message up. It's intention is to let you know that you don't have a signal and therefore won't be able to send your SMS, email etc. however more often than not it's a sub-second blip in the signal rather than a total loss. If you watch closely you'll sometimes see the signal bars disappear and reappear as the signal is reacquired.
You could try going to Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings to see if somehow you've altered some network setting which is affecting your reception but you'll lose wifi passwords etc I think if you do that.
A: I had the same problem on a new iPad (2012 model) with T-Mobile in the UK.
Solution was easy once I found it (credit: this answer) - just go into Settings > Carrier, and turn off Automatic (i.e. selection of carrier). When your carrier is listed below (may take a minute or two), just select it.
This completely fixed the problem, which wasn't fixed by going into airplane mode, rebooting, or tweaking the APN settings.
Update: unfortunately this turned out not to be a complete fix after some time using this, though it did improve matters. Using a Vodafone SIM worked fine, so I suspect the problem is with T-Mobile UK.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How can I match the text color and background color in Terminal? I use emacs/org-mode which uses color for hiding some of the headlines as is shown here.
This works well with Aquamcas, but when I run emacs in text mode, I still see the stars in the headline as I didn't make the background color exactly the same as the color of the font.
How can I match the text color and background color in Terminal?
A: Open a terminal window and type some of the text whose color you want to set the background the same as. Then open Terminal preferences.
Click the Window tab and then the Background Color. This brings up a color picker window. Click the magnifying glass in the upper left and move it over the text you want to match the color with. When you click on the text this will set the color you want. You could also set it directly in the RGB slider panel shown in the 2nd image which matches the text color from your image in the question.
A: You might have not enough colors in the terminal. Try
export TERM=xterm-256color
in your ~/.bashrc
Also, are you running
/usr/bin/emacs
or
/Applications/Aquamacs.app/Contents/MacOS/Emacs -nw
The two behave differently (in /usr/bin/emacs you may have Emacs 22)
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I open a new customized (color, font, etc.) Terminal window from the command line? I'd like to open a new Terminal window in Terminal.app. I'd also like to be able to customize this window (color, text, etc.), based on one of my pre-defined defaults, or based on something else not yet set in Terminal preferences.
A: *
*CMD+n opens a new terminal window.
*CMD+t opens a new terminal tab.
*If you want to open something other than the default Terminal, use the techniques here to open a pre-defined Terminal setup. You can also do CMD+n,i,Tab to bring up the Inspector, then use up/down arrows, or type the names, which lets you choose a pre-defined Terminal.
*If you want a setup hard-coded and not yet known to Terminal.app, follow these instructions.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Define different screen resolution when external monitor is plugged in I have a Macbook Pro that I use both at home and at work. At home when I'm using it as a laptop, the standard resolution of 1440 x 900 is fine as it's closer to my eyes. However, at work I plug in an external LCD so that I can dual screen and the resolution of the Macbook screen is a bit too large for my eyes.
Is there any way for me dictate a smaller resolution when I have an external monitor plugged in? Or is there an app that does this?
A: You don't need any apps, Snow Leopard and Leopard (and possibly earlier versions) do this out of the box. I just tested it and it worked without any effort at all.
*
*Go to System Preferences > Displays
*Select the checkbox 'Show displays in menu bar'
*Connect your external display
*Arrange them however you like
*On your menu bar, you'll see an icon shaped like a screen with two legs, click it
*Set your resolutions and that's it
When you disconnect your external screen, your MacBook screen will return to the original display setting, if you plug the external screen back in, the resolutions you setup last time will be automatically selected.
Note: I tried this with a Mini-DisplayPort cable because that's all I have. I don't know if behaviour is different if you use a different connection. I'm on a 13" Unibody 2009 model and running OS X 10.6.6
A: From the command line, cscreen lets you adjust monitor resolution.
To automate this when you attach your external display, you'll want to begin with MarcoPolo. If it doesn't support changing screen resolution (I think not), then you'll want it to run a shell script or applescript that calls cscreen.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is it possible to purchase an iPhone app now to download later? I was wondering if there is a way (or at least if it is possible) to purchase an app from the app store now, but do not download it now (to save on disk space) and download it later when required.
Often there are apps on sale (e.g., Lonely Planet city guides) that are not immediately useful. These are great apps, but not immediately useful. So, instead of downloading the app right away and use up disk space, it would be nice to purchase the app and download later when required.
A: You could purchase the app, then tap on the icon as soon as it appears to pause the download, and leave it paused indefinitely.
A: You can purchase the app through iTunes, rather than the app store. Then you can download it later.
A: You could purchase the app and delete it. When you need it, go back to the appstore and redownload it for free.(since you purchased it already)
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Using a shared DVD burner Machine #1 is a mac mini with a CD burner only.
Machine #2 is a macbook pro with a DVD burner.
Both are current on MacOSX. Burner is shared. Machine #1 is connected to machine #2 in the finder.
iDVD is oblivious on machine #1 to the burner on #2. is this expected?
A: I think that feature is only for sharing discs that are in the drive, not for sharing the drive and it's burning capabilities itself. The manual says:
If you have installed the DVD or CD Sharing Setup software, you can share DVD or CD discs in your computer’s optical drive with other computers on your Ethernet or wireless network. If another computer on your network doesn’t have an optical drive, you can set up your computer to allow the other computer to use the disc in your computer’s optical drive.
Instead of what you're doing now, try saving from iDVD as a disk image. You can then use Disk Utility on the other mac to burn that disk image to a DVD-R.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Resolution of pictures hopping from iphoto to imovie to idvd So, I've got this pretty big (12 minutes, 3sec/slide) slide show. I may be done with it. I may not.
The show is composed of ten iPhoto-11 slideshows. Each one was set up 4:3, then exported, with the kind advice of Nathan in another question to specify H.264, 2048 bit rate, and the second-highest resolution (my pick on the theory that I was not going to be driving an HDTV, just a relatively ordinary projector).
Imported into iMovie-11 at 30fps, arranged, decorated with music, exported to via the share menu iDVD. Didn't touch anything in iDVD. just pushed the burn button.
Inserted resulting disk into nice new-ish dvd player with 30" LCD TV, 720 resolution. The pictures have a very visible structure of being built of little squares.
I dont' see artifacts in full-screen preview in iPhoto, or in full-screen imovie preview on my macbook pro. (On my mini, it warns me that full resolution will be degradated, so the presence of them there is not a surprise). But the DVD has this problem.
edit
I discovered an option in iDVD to vary the 'encoding quality'. Moving that up to professional looked to me to make a notable improvement.
Ideas?
A: This issue may have been caused by a variety of issues:
*
*The resolution was only at 720p.
*iMovie compressed the movies.
*The "encoding quality" may not have been up to par.
These programs have been updated significantly now, however. iPhoto has been replaced with Photos, and iDVD isn't supported now.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7637",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Filesorter alternative I found a really cool app in the App Store called FileSorter
It automatically sort files. Is there any FREE alternative?
A: Actually, that application is free.
A: I've found this site a little while ago that let's me see if there are alternatives to apps either because they're on Windows (and the app's not important enough to boot Parallels) or too expensive:
alternativeto.net
Give that a try and see what you can find.
Specifically for you, this is what I found there.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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} |
Q: set up Caps Lock as a shortcut for changing the input language I want to set up Casp Lock as a shortcut for changing the input language. There are some solutions like this. But it requires installing some software and doing tricks. Is there a way to do it in a neat way, say through terminal command?
A: Yes, you can use Caps Lock to change input language without third-party software.
All you need is a custom-made keyboard layout (usually made with Ukelele ) that has two alternative sets of characters bound to Caps lock=on and Caps lock=on and Shift=on states.
Pros: zero-lag, no weird key remapping hacks needed
Cons: buit-in input source indicator becomes useless, looking at the Caps LED is not very convenient for touch-typists.
To mitigate the "cons" I use lightweight third-party app called Capster that changes the icon in the menubar depending on the Caps lock state.
I also use small Applescript to disable Caps lock delay.
I'm using this method for many years and never looked back.
This is my bundle for Russian language (with additional Ukrainian characters bound to alt+key)
https://github.com/falcn/Caps-layout
A: Unfortunately no, unless someone posts a (possible veery long) command that modifies the keyboard drivers in the same way PCKeyboardHack and KeyRemap4MacBook do, but in general, using these is the way to go.
A: In case people who get here from search engines don't read the linked post, you can change caps lock to something like F19 with PCKeyboardHack:
And then change the shortcut for selecting the next input source to F19:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7646",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How am I supposed to use ProXPN on an insecure network? It seems that ProXPN will only launch after you connect to a wireless network. How, then, can I keep my connection secure while connecting to an insecure wireless connection while using ProXPN?
There will be a brief moment where I connect to the insecure network, and only then I can launch and enable ProXPN. Is there any way to make it so there isn't this brief vulnerability? Or is this brief moment not a risk at all since I am not browsing any websites from when I connect to the network to when I enable ProXPN?
What about other risks such as someone hacking into the computer via open ports or shared folders/files?
A: The reason your Proxy will not connect without an active connection is because inherently it encapsulates traffic, pipes it over an insecure connection in a secure fashion, and forwards that traffic to another host which actually makes the request. It is like saying you would like to send a secret letter without using the post service, unfortunately it is the base of how you are communicating.
If you join an insecure network and you dont actually perform any actions, there is no risk, that being said, on a mac you do have programs that may automatically request a connection (mail) and send out credentials or try to visit a URL. This is a fairly small risk, you can always keep them closed until you run your proxy software.
In terms of open ports or shared files and folders, if you are advertising these services and you connect to an insecure network, the thing to stop them is your firewall.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7650",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How can I figure out if a Safari extension is using unreasonable memory/cpu? How can I figure out if a Safari extension is using unreasonable memory/cpu? I'm not really experiencing any unreasonable sluggishness, but I am starting to pile up on the extensions and was considering pruning the most performance draining ones just for good measure.
A: Disable the extension. Run Safari for an hour (normal use) and note the kind of cpu/memory usages you get from it (using activity monitor or top).
Enable the extension. Repeat.
A: You can also use Instruments and attach it to your safari instance and start from there.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7656",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Bash or Zsh, what's the difference, why use one or the other? So, the question pretty much says it all. I'm on Snow Leopard, and I do a lot of web development, particularly in Rails 3 which makes heavy use of the console.
I've seen some notable bloggers etc. mention Zsh as their preference over Bash, but I don't know what difference it would make.
Could anyone give me a good comparison of what difference there is and what might make one prefer one option or the other?
A: This is from the Zsh FAQ:
2.5: Similarities with bash
The Bourne-Again Shell, bash, is another enhanced Bourne-like shell; the most obvious
difference from zsh is that it does not attempt to emulate the Korn shell. Since both
shells are under active development it is probably not sensible to be too specific
here. Broadly, bash has paid more attention to standards compliancy (i.e. POSIX) for
longer, and has so far avoided the more abstruse interactive features (programmable
completion, etc.) that zsh has.
I've used them both, but prefer Bash now days because the machines I work on default to bash consistently. The standards-compliancy comment is important to me because that means consistency between OSes.
Zsh has nice autocompletion abilities, but I kept finding cases where it didn't know what I wanted. That was several years ago, so it might have improved since then.
I've found that enabling "vi-mode" (set -o vi) in Bash makes it a much nicer command-line environment than it normally is, so I do that immediately in my .bashrc file.
When writing shell scripts I don't ever program in either bash or zsh - I program using sh (/bin/sh), because it's the lowest common denominator and the least likely to have compatibility issues. That's just an old habit that has stood me well.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "24"
} |
Q: Why are my iPad landscape screenshots rotated the wrong way? All my iPad landscape screenshots end up rotated to portrait view. In other words, they are 90 degrees turned the wrong way. It's annoying. No I don't have the rotation lock on when taking them. I am on 4.2, but it has always done this even before 4.2 update. I am jailbroken, so it may be one of the jailbreak apps. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas?
A: This is default behavior and is not an issue with jailbreaking. Even my new iPad 2 straight out the box does this on 4.3. I see this as a bug and hope Apple fixes this.
The fastest and simplest iPad app that I've found that I like for rotating, cropping and flipping is called Crop Suey HD.
UPDATE: It appears as though iOS 5 has finally fixed this annoying bug. And the even better news is that they are now throwing in photo editing tools right in the photo viewer app; including the option to rotate.
A: That is just the way it is... why... I don't know, but they can be rotated using either the photo app, or photoshop express.... don't remember which one I used...
A: When I did all the screenshots for my Keynote for iPad book, I had to solve this problem. The easiest way to do it is with an application that we all have in the Applications folder on our Macs but usually don't think of: Image Capture. Connect your iPad via USB, then fire up Image Capture. There's a toolbar at the bottom of the Image Capture window with buttons that let you rotate selected shots 90 degrees left or right.
Better yet, you can use Automator to create an Image Capture plugin that performs a variety of image transforms. The one I created first rotates the picture 90 degrees left (Preview action), then converts it from the native PNG to TIFF (Preview action), then saves it to a specified folder (Finder action). The plugin appears in the Import To pop-up menu in the Image Capture toolbar.
| {
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} |
Q: Use Goal0 Nomad 7m Solar Panel to charge MacBook Air? I've got a Goal0 Nomad 7m solar panel. It produces ~7 amps @ <22V DC on a regular day.
The MacBook Air has a 45W charger. The markings on the charger say it runs at 14.5V DC @ 3.1 amps. Unless I'm wrong (and I may be, I'm only a beginning EE student ;) those numbers are smaller than the ones on the output of the solar panel. To confirm it another way, P=IV, (P is power in Watts), so theoretically P=7*22=154 watts. 154>45.
The Nomad 7m has a 12v cigarette-lighter style outlet that will fit the MB Airline Adapter. The problem is that it puts out 12v (or so it says, but I'm hoping it's actually around 14) and the Airline adapter needs 14-15 to work right.
What do you guys think? Is this possible? Any recommendations for alternative options (I could always use a 3rd party vehicle adapter if need be). If it puts out this much juice it should also be able to charge a regular MacBook, I think.
A: If you look at the page for the Goal0 Nomad 7M (click "Tech Specs") It's rated for 7 Watts.
I don't where you got the "~7 amps @ <22V DC on a regular day."
So the sort answer is - That panel won't even keep the MacBook Air running at idle, let alone charge the battery.
Your post got me curious, so I broke out a Kill-A-Watt power meter.
11" MacBook Air Power Draw, battery already fully charged, measured at the wall:
*
*Idle, screen backlight completely off: ~4.7W
*Idle, Minimum Screen Brightness: ~4.9W
*Idle, Half Screen Brightness: ~5.4W
*Idle, Maximum Screen Brightness: ~8.0W
For the active tests, I have the screen set to half-brightness, where I usually use it:
*
*Moving the mouse in circles with the trackpad: ~6.5W
*Scrubbing the Dock (with magnification): ~11.2W
*HD Video Decoding, GPU accelerated: ~15.6W
*SD Video Decoding, GPU Accelerated: ~11.2W
*Flash SD Decoding (not sure if it's accelerated): ~12.7W
Ok, these figures are VERY approximate (the Kill-A-Watt is not a high precision instrument), but they do put things in the ballpark.
The theoretical approach -
Insolation is the term for the amount of energy that falls on a set area per set time.
Basically, we can calculate the amount of solar energy which falls on a specific area.
The Photovoltaic array wikipedia page gives us a ballpark figure of ~1Kw/M².
Then, you have to take the efficiency of the Photovoltaic Panel into account.
Wikipedia gives us a best-case mono crystalline panel efficiency of ~25%, shich means that only 25% of the light which falls on the panel is converted to electrical energy, while the rest is dissipated as heat, reflected away, etc...
Therefore, a 1m² panel will, at the equator and with a mechanism that points it directly at the sun, manage ~250 W.
From this, we can tell that a 154W panel would have to be ~0.616 m² (154/250 = 0.616), far larger than what you have.
Examining the 7W panel you have - How big does a panel have to be to produce 7W?
7/250 = 0.028 m², or 280 cm² or about 14*20 cm, which seems pretty accurate, judging from the pictures on the product page.
Anyways, I went of on a bit of a tangent here, because you mentioned you're an EE, which is one of my main interests.
A: I'm the EE for Goal Zero. The Nomad-7 is 7 watts, as already noted. The printed W must have been confused as an A. All Nomad panels have 12V output ports, which are actually ~15V outputs, which is a good voltage for charging batteries. I generally don't recommend charging sensitive electronic devices directly from solar panels, because of the potentially inconsistent nature of solar weather. Instead, use the solar panel to charge a separate battery, which doesn't mind inconsistency, and then use the battery to charge your sensitive electronic device.
I have a Macbook Air and the airplane adapter. I have attached this cable to an adjustable power supply, and tested voltages from 13 to 16.5V. None of these, when driven through the airplane adapter, will alow the Macbook Air to charge -- only run. There are some electronics in this cable which signal to the laptop not to take a charge, and I have not yet figured out how to reproduce these. I'm waiting on another magsafe that I can cut apart and experiment with.
I have run my Macbook Air directly from our 12V batteries and from our larger panels, through the airline adapter.
A: I would also like to thank GZ for responding.
since the question is hanging a little i would like to share my experiences.
most laptop and phone chargers today appears to test the current available
before starting to charge.
as the magsafe is rated at 45w it is no far stretch to assume that it will test
if it can output 3.1 amps 14.5
to do this with a power conv factor of perhaps 90% (can be as low as 88 and up to 95%)
it will need 45/0.9 ~ 50watts. at 15v that would require 3.33A
For GZ test, it is fairly common that a variable bench power source 0-24 can only deliver 2A ie it can deliver 50w at peak voltage but only 30W at 15v(have had this problem when trying to power industrial pc at 24)
hence unless you put a "buffer" battery between the panel and the magsafe that can deliver 3.5A temporarily to keep the charger happy. it wont work.
what i would like to know is if the usb port on the nomad 7 is 5.0 or 5.4 volt
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7660",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What readers annotate PDFs better than the Preview app? I usually spend around 3 or 4 hours a day working with and annotating PDFs. I've always used Preview, but there's a few things that bother me about it. Mainly the large icons used when you place notes, which can get in the way in tightly formatted documents.
Is there an alterate PDF reader that is any better for annotating documents?
A: PDF Expert is hands down the best pdf editor made. Better than Acrobat.
A: PDF Studio Viewer is a free PDF Reader for macOS that can annotate PDF documents with text and graphical comments including text highlights and markup, shape annotations, text box, typewriter, callout, etc. It can also fill interactive forms.
All annotations are compliant with PDF specs and Adobe products and can be viewed by other readers on all platforms.
A: Skim is a pdf reader specialy designed to annotate pdf.
Skim is a PDF reader and note-taker for OS X. It is designed to help you read and annotate scientific papers in PDF, but is also great for viewing any PDF file.
Stop printing and start skimming.
Explore the links to the left to investigate Skim and consider helping out with the project.
Features:
*
*Viewing PDFs
*Adding and editing notes
*Highlighting important text, including one-swipe highlight modes
*Making "snapshots" for easy reference
*Navigation using table of contents or thumbnails, with visual history
*View all your notes and highlights
*Convenient reading in full screen
*Giving powerful presentations, with built-in transitions
*Handy preview of internal links
*Focus using a reading bar
*Magnification tool
*Smart cropping tools
*Extensive AppleScript support
*Bookmarks
*Saving passwords in Keychain
*Export notes as text
*Automatic download of remote PDFs
*Support for Apple Remote Control
*Interaction with LaTeX, SyncTeX, and PDFSync
*Integration with BibDesk and other third party applications
*Spotlight support
*Highly customizable
*And much more...
A: While not meant primarily for your use case, I found Mendeley Desktop to be quite adept at highlighting and annotating.
A: There are plenty of good PDF readers on Mac, including:
Formulate Pro, http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/19911/formulatepro
PDFPen and PDFPen Pro (a little bit expensive but really good software)
PDF Checkpoint that I like very much which allows you to automate your workflow.
You should try their free version to see which one suits your needs ;)
A: I too can share my best PDF experience with PDF Expert by readdle.Very advanced PDF editor/viewer,and also in some very large files where Preview would crash,it didn't.Absolutely worth the money.
A: I agree with the previous answer ... so far I think skim is the best.
Yet, I had some issues that it would not display the annotations on every platform.
I like to use Adobe Illustrator for annotating. Yet, you will need a lot of processing power + it's not really cheap (if you just want to use it for annotating, don't bother buying it).
There's also http://jarnal.wikispaces.com/
(opensource, yet ugly java ui)
Overview about note-taking software for different platforms:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_notetaking_software
A: https://getpolarized.io/ is another mediocre, Electron (and web) solution. It is also always-online and has a free plan with 1 GB of storage. It has some integration with Anki.
A: To be honest if you are spending that amount of time a day with PDFs its worth buying Acrobat Pro. Its not cheap but nothing else comes close in terms of its feature set. I have found version 10 to be really stable too.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7667",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: Is there any way to dock the Adium buddy list to the side of the screen? This seems to be a pretty common feature in most Windows-based IM clients and I'm confused as to why I can't find this functionality in Adium. By "dock" I mean dragging the buddy list to the edge of the screen and having it essentially turn into a sidebar which no windows overlap and which takes up the entire height of the screen.
A: You can certainly achieve "something similar" if you tell it to be above other windows and don't hide when in the background (options I don't use or like)
Of course it won't be a real "docked" app like the DOCK, but it will behave mostly like it.
You can control the vertical and horizontal size:
And here's how mine looks:
UPDATE to be honest, I use it on the right side, but Adium will "stick" to the Screen side when close to it. The position in the above screenshot was for the purpose of showing you how it "docks" :)
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Wifi seems really unstable since getting new iMac Since I've had my iMac I've noticed that my wifi network locks up a few times a week, it is always fixed by turning off the wifi on the iMac, then turning it back on again.
The network shouldn't be over loaded, it's a Time Capsule with iMac, iPhone, Macbook and Apple TV connected, surely these should all play together nicely!
I've checked and the Time Capsule is at the latest firmware level (7.5.2), so not sure what the next step is.
[edit]
iMac is current model 21.5" i3, OSX is at 10.6.6 and software update says everything is up to date.
To clear up unstable the wifi connection always appears to be connected, but if I'm using the iMac I can't view websites, there have also been times where the Airplay streaming has just stopped, so it seems to be the whole network.
A: OK well if your problem affects internal traffic (streaming AirPlay) and external traffic (website access) then that points the finger at your Time Capsule. The fact that you've only noticed this since you connected your new iMac might be a red herring but may also be a hint at the cause. I'd start with pinging the time capsule and see if you have periods where you can't ping it. So open Network Utility > Ping and enter the IP address of the time capsule (probably 192.168.1.1) and set it to ping an unlimited amount of times, you'll see output like that below:
Ping has started…
PING 192.168.1.1 (192.168.1.1): 56 data bytes
64 bytes from 192.168.1.1: icmp_seq=0 ttl=64 time=1.197 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.1: icmp_seq=1 ttl=64 time=1.158 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.1: icmp_seq=2 ttl=64 time=0.996 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.1: icmp_seq=3 ttl=64 time=0.970 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.1: icmp_seq=4 ttl=64 time=1.103 ms
This, in case you don't know, is just sending a packet to the IP address of your time capsule and the time=xxxx on the right is a measure of how long it took to get a response. Now, if something is happening to slow down the network response time, you'll see it here. As you can see there is very small fluctuations (the units are milliseconds) in the response time but you'll be looking for larger differences, such as 1000ms or even dropped packets. Obviously this is only useful if you're seeing the issue every few minutes rather than once a day. Once you prove that you have captured an issue, try the same thing while plugged directly into the time capsule by cable. If you get similar symptoms then I'd point the finger at the router. See how you get on with that and I'll update the answer when you come back if I can suggest some other steps. Good luck!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7674",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: define multiple release years for an album Is there a way to define multiple release years in the mp3 tags using iTunes? The reason I am asking is that I have a lot of "remastered" albums in my iTunes database that were released in the last couple of years but the original ones had been released much earlier. Now I would like to store the release year of the original album with it. So that for example I would be able to sort and search by original release year OR by acutal release year.
A: As I understand it, there is no such capability in iTunes. However, the ID3 tag description on Wikipedia has some information. Basically, what you want is possible, but varies between ID3 tag version.
*
*In ID3 v2.3:
*
*There is a TORY tag for the original release year
*There is a TYER tag for the actual release year
*In ID3 v2.4:
*
*There is a TDOR tag for original release time
*There is a TDRL tag for actual release time
In effect, v2.4 got more specific with the tags (going from year to time), and any half-decent ID3 tag editor should handle either version of the spec just fine. However, iTunes doesn't handle these tags natively.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7676",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Applications for finding iPhone 4 locally? Like many people, I'm having trouble finding an iPhone 4 for purchase in my area. Right now, I'm using an advanced Twitter search to monitor tweets in my area, looking for people celebrating the purchases of their new iPhones, and I'm calling local personal electronics stores after they receive their shipments.
Are there any applications (web or Mac) that could assist me in my search? Feel free to include applications that weren't designed for this purpose. I'm looking for an iPhone 4, but software that helps with this search could help others looking for hardware at other times also.
A: I ran a shell script like this when the iPad 2 came out to track local availability at Target stores. The regular expressions might need to be changed if the site's formatting has changed since then.
#!/bin/sh
echo "iPad 2 Wi-Fi Black 16GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1830&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 Wi-Fi Black 32GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1831&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 Wi-Fi Black 64GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1832&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 ATT Black 16GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1833&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 ATT Black 32GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1834&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 ATT Black 64GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1835&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 VZN Black 16GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1836&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 VZN Black 32GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1837&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 VZN Black 64GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1838&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 Wi-Fi White 16GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1839&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 Wi-Fi White 32GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1840&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 Wi-Fi White 64GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1841&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 ATT White 16GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1842&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 ATT White 32GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1843&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 ATT White 64GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1844&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 VZN White 16GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1845&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 VZN White 32GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1846&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
echo "iPad 2 VZN White 64GB: "; curl -s --data "_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&asin=&dpci=057-10-1847&zipcode=95014&city=&state=" http://sites.target.com/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats_results.jsp?_DARGS=/site/en/spot/mobile_fiats.jsp | grep -A 2 strong | sed -e 's/<p><strong>//' -e 's/<\/strong><br\/>//' -e 's/<br \/>//' -e 's/<\/p>//' -e 's/--//' -e 's/^[ \t]*//;s/[ \t]*$//'
echo;
(substitute your own zip code for Apple HQ's)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7677",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How do I suppress the address bar in mobile Safari? When I add the Nibbble web app to my iPhone home page, it not only installs an icon, but when run, also hides all of the mobile Safari chrome.
How does it achieve this?
A: You only need the first part of this code to do what you ask, but the rest may also be helpful.
// hide the browser chrome
<meta name="apple-mobile-web-app-capable" content="yes" />
//set the phone status bar style; can be grey, black, or black translucent
<meta name="apple-mobile-web-app-status-bar-style" content="black" />
// set the viewport for iOS
<meta content="minimum-scale=1.0, width=device-width, maximum-scale=0.6667, user-scalable=no" name="viewport" />
// set a custom icon for when a user bookmarks the app to the home screen
<link rel="apple-touch-icon" href="/path/to/icon.png" />
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7678",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is there any way to output to two 1920x1200 external monitors with any of MacBook Pro or Air? I understand that you can output to one 1920x1200 monitor while still using the laptop's screen, and one 2560x1600 monitor using the dual-DVI adapter.
But can you output to two external 1920x1200 monitors?
I don't care if you can still use the laptop's screen in that case.
A: Yes you can, you can run one monitor from the normal monitor port and another from a USB port but you need a special connector which makes the Air think it has a 2nd monitor attached. Here's an example on YouTube
You need something like the Matrox Dual Head 2 Go which allows you to have multiple monitors with your MacBook. The performance of USB-attached monitors tends to be worse than those connected with display cables so they would be fine for regular computer use but probably not for gaming for example.
EDIT
With the release of Thunderbolt-capable Macs, you can now drive dual external Thunderbolt displays from MacBooks which have a separate graphics card.
A: I've rencently bought a Matrox Dual Head 2 Go that supports up to two 1920x1200 displays. ! You can still use the MacBook Pro main screen while the 2 externals displays are connected ! Plus the control software by Matrox is nice and simple to use .
A: I highly recommend Plugable's USB 2.0 to VGA/DVI/HDMI Adapter. It will do up to 2048×1152 or 1920×1200. I use it at work every day, along with a second monitor plugged right into the display port. It uses DisplayLink's chip and drivers, and works well on Snow Leopard and Lion.
It's a bit slower to update than the MacBook's internal monitor or the monitor plugged directly into the display port, but as long as I'm not trying to watch video on it it's great.
A: In this post, it is shown how to do it by using an external USB accessory, apparently enabling up to six monitors. Sorry the blog is in Italian, but the particular device demonstrated there is evident and some links to further explanations are to English-language sites.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7680",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: Displays won't stay off when I put them to sleep when I press Shift + Control + Eject the displays go blank for a second, then they turn on again.
There's no way I can get them off permanently.
I also don't want the computer to sleep as I leave it downloading over night.
I have a MacBook with an external monitor attached.
A: Sometimes this can be due to the System Management Controller. Try resetting the SMC and see if that helps
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7684",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to fix a file that's read-only despite showing correct permissions A file copied from a NTFS share has become read-only, other files in the same folder are OK.
Finder's Info says in the Sharing & Permissions:
You can only read
Name Privilege
myname (Me) Read & Write
admin Read only
everyone Read only
ls -l@
total 142040
-rwxr-xr-x 1 myname admin 5388424 Sep 17 1998 Bad File
-rwxr-xr-x 1 myname admin 3534780 Feb 3 21:36 Good File
How to undo? chown/chmod didn't do anything...
A: Try ls -lO to see if any file flags are set. If it's locked (uchg flag), you can unlock it in either the Finder's Get Info window, or with chflags nouchg "Bad File". If some other flag is set, use chflags no<whatever> "Bad File" to clear it.
EDIT: The -O flag to la adds another column between the group and size of the files, listing file flags (if any). Note that flags are entirely separate from extended attributes (what -@ displays). Here's an example:
$ touch "Normal File" "Locked File" "Invisible, Append-only File"
$ chflags uchg "Locked File"
$ chflags uappnd,hidden "Invisible, Append-only File"
$ ls -l
total 0
-rw-r--r--@ 1 gordon wheel 0 Feb 4 07:24 Invisible, Append-only File
-rw-r--r-- 1 gordon wheel 0 Feb 4 07:24 Locked File
-rw-r--r-- 1 gordon wheel 0 Feb 4 07:24 Normal File
$ ls -lO
total 0
-rw-r--r--@ 1 gordon wheel uappnd,hidden 0 Feb 4 07:24 Invisible, Append-only File
-rw-r--r-- 1 gordon wheel uchg 0 Feb 4 07:24 Locked File
-rw-r--r-- 1 gordon wheel - 0 Feb 4 07:24 Normal File
The uchg flag is what gets set if you check the "Locked" box in a file's Get Info window. BTW, the "hidden" flag only affects the Finder -- the only way to hide files from the command line is to put a . at the front of the filename.
A: Another method of unlocking said file would be in Finder itself. Under the General expansion of Get Info. This toggles the uchg flag.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why does my WLAN stop working when I plug in my HDTV? I'm facing a strange problem where my WLAN suddenly stops working the moment I plug in my HDTV into my MacBook 13" (mid-2010) using an HDMI to DisplayPort adapter.
Any idea why this is happening?
A: Bit of a shot in the dark but have you tried a different cable? Maybe the one you're using is damaged and is shorting something somewhere which is affecting the wireless antenna. It is definitely a weird problem by the sounds of it but you could try a couple of tests by first using a different cable, then using a different TV with each cable and see if they all produce the same result. If they do then it might be worth getting Apple to take a look at your DisplayPort socket if you're under warranty or a good repair shop. I've seen weird things happen to computers with dodgy USB cables so there's a chance it's something like that.
A: It look like I'm not the only one who is fighting this issue. That guy uses the same router (Linksys WRT54GL) as I do and just switched the WLAN channel to solve the problem.
This does also solve the problem for me.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is it possible to return the iPhone to its very original factory state? Back to the screen that asks for SIM insertion and iTunes connection on background. Is it?
A: Settings -> General -> Reset -> 'Erase all Content and Settings'. On some devices (3gs and 4) this will only return the iPhone to factory settings (but not activation mode). For the latter, I'd just plug it in to iTunes and click 'Restore'.
A: If I understand what you mean is restoring to its original state -
*
*Connect iPhone to the computer.
*In iTunes, under the Devices, select your iPhone.
*Select the Summary tab across the top.
*Click Restore.
A: Yes assuming you haven't upgraded the firmware or OS past the factory state.
Whether or not you can revert to factory levels, here is how to get it ready for activation:
Remove the SIM and power off the device. Then plug it into iTunes while off and holding the home button all the while until you see the connect to iTunes icon. This is recovery mode but the device still has user data on it.
Your computer then can wipe all content and re-install any OS that is the same or newer than the OS that is currently on the device. You can load iTunes with older images than is current but just not older than is currently on the phone.
You can't go backwards in terms of undoing an update on the phone without modifying/jailbreaking the device - even then it's not a given and rarely successful in reverting back to factory OS or firmware.
Once the restore is complete disconnect the phone from the computer before replacing the SIM card.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How can I make Growl Tunes start automatically? How can I make GrowlTunes start automatically when either Growl or OSX does?
A: Go to Preferences -> Accounts -> Select your account -> Select the "Login Items" button or tab (not sure what I would call it!) -> Then press the + sign to add a new start up item and select GrowlTunes.
A: Another, possibly quicker way, is to drag it into your dock (if not already there), then right-click it, go to Options>Open at Login. Then drag it out of your dock if you don't want it to stay in your dock.
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Diagnose periodic slowdowns/freezes When I am watching a YouTube video, the video will pause and freeze for about one second, every 10 seconds on the dot. I've timed it. I have also tried watching activity monitor but it doesn't show anything out of the ordinary spiking. And it's not Flash or the browser in particular, though they show the worst effect. But even as I type this, every 10 seconds it freezes. In other programs too I'm pretty sure I have seen this freeze. (lately I haven't used many other programs, to be honest, so I'm not 100% sure)
I am trying to avoid the brute force approach of removing things one by one and seeing if it stops. Before I resort to that, is there anything sort of like activity monitor but maybe that will graph usage so I can just look at a spike in usage from a single process? Or is there some other method you can recommend for finding out what is causing this every-10-second freeze?
This, by the way, is a few-month-old 17" MacBook Pro with a 2.8ghz i7 and 4gb of RAM and all updates.
A: Sometimes a good place to look is the syslog. If you know it's every 10 seconds then there's a chance that a message will get logged for whatever is happening. Try this in terminal and append the results to your question or even have a look yourself for anything that looks unusual which is happening on 10 second intervals.
tail -n 20 /var/log/system.log
You need to be an admin user to run the above command
A: I gave it a while after posting this question but couldn't find a solution. I uninstalled what I thought was the most likely culprit: Little Snitch. Unfortunately the uninstall required a restart, so I don't know which one fixed the problem (or if it's really fixed) but after restarting, of course, the symptoms are gone. I'm honestly hoping it will happen again so that I can confidently reinstall Little Snitch, because I highly doubt it's the cause of the problem.
I think I've still noticed the problem but not quite as severe. It's quite possible that I haven't yet been running Firefox long enough, and it's something that happens over time (or at an untimely sleep which Firefox doesn't properly handle, maybe?).
Also, next time I notice this severe problem, I found some commands to use to try and monitor firefox: rwsnoop and iosnoop. They are command line tools which monitor application disk activity. If the every-10-second thing accesses the disk then I'll see it and that might help in debugging it.
Update:
It ended up being Firefox, and I've now been happily using Chrome for months with no Flash problems. Besides this freeze problem (which only showed up after several days of using Firefox, if I remember correctly), Firefox also uses a TON of memory, which is completely unacceptable. So those factors, combined with the fact that I received a Cr-48 shortly after asking this question (thus it runs Chrome and I want to sync with my laptop) means I am now a Google Chrome fan.
Also I really don't think it was Little Snitch. I did reactivate it sometime later after asking my question, and a month or two later I thought about how Little Snitch was just sort of allowing everything, and disabled it - but after switching to Chrome I didn't see these freezes again.
| {
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"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: If I leave my chargers plugged into the wall socket at all times, do they consume energy or present a safety risk? This is something I always wondered about: when I leave my charger plugged on the wall socket but not charging anything, is it still consuming energy?
Some notebook chargers have a led that is always on, so I guess it's consuming at least a bit. But what about Apple chargers? I want to leave my iPhone and iPad chargers always plugged under my desk (so I can just connect my device when I want to charge) but I'm worried they shouldn't be plugged all the time due to safety risks or phantom power consumption.
Is there any way to measure this to be sure?
A: It will consume energy even when not connected to your Mac. Also, the longer you leave them plugged in, the more likely they will be damaged by an electrical surge or lightening strike etc. Best thing to do is probably have a multi-socket lead which your chargers plug into under your desk and you can just pull that out of the wall when not in use. That protects your equipment from electrical issues and saves your back from getting under the desk!
A: All your chargers are designed to support being plugged in 24 hours a day. Don't worry about them wearing out. If you are concerned about a small charge to your electric bill or if you're trying to do your part to waste less electricity, then you can plug them all into a power strip. When you aren't using them, turn off the power strip.
A: That's yet another power consumption myth. Just don't bother about it*.
Your milage may vary ( and as others said, it does consume energy. Though it is less than 1 watt hour (calculator included) and it will probably cost you a few cents per year at most. At least the macbook adapter, which is probably consuming 0.1 kWh. Some mobile phones adapters may get to 0.5 kWh and even beyond. That makes a lot of difference and then it can cost up to 2 bucks per year. Calculating kWh at $0.2. Still an unnoticeable cost.
If you want to actually save money with small actions like that, I'll quote that great Michael link I've already gave it on the top:
You're much better off addressing your heating, cooling, lighting, laundry, and computer first.
A couple more of interesting related side notes:
*
*The macbook is designed to being plugged 24/7, though advised to unplug once a month, even that is not needed. The advise is basically to keep the battery meter calibrated, but it will calibrate just fine any time you do it.
*Funny calculation: if you leave your macbook always plugged in, it will cost roughly those $25 per year another user also calculated. Now, if you unplug it every day for 9 hours you save about $10. But you'll be using battery energy, and charging it will be done at 80 kWh. It takes 2 hours to recharge 80%, so if you do this every day, it will still cost you the same $25. If you drain closer to 0 every day, it will take 4 hours to a full charge and cost you at least $37 total. If you just close the lid and use almost no power while unplugged, then the battery cost won't really kick in, and you can save those $10. Maybe it will be only $9.
(*) So it is quite ok to leave it on, but I wouldn't. Kind of.
We should always have at least a power strip for electronics and switch them down regularly anyway, for safety. At very least on a thunder storm, as hazards may happen. But high voltage discharges don't come only from neighbouring nature nor only from thunder. I just unplug almost all my devices from the wall.
Now the real point is: do you have an extra U$79 to spend and have handy an extra charger? If so, then just leave it on for convenience (and laziness)!
And if you want to be environmentally friendly, keep in mind those $1 a year multiplied by a over guess-timate of 200 million people who uses a macbook is still nothing ($5 million per year or 20 million kWh or 0.00000002 pentawatt-hour against 144 pentawatt-hour average global consumption estimate in 2008) and it's not like you can convince all those people to get off their convenience anyway.
A: It does consume energy. Feel it, it will feel warm or even hot. It doesn't use much, but it is still a good idea to not waste this. Unplug it, or buy a power strip and turn off the power strip when it isn't needed.
To find out exactly how much, you could use a Kill-a-Watt, or read the MacBook Environmental Report (PDF). The current version (MacBook, May 2010, White) says the no-load power draw is 0.010 W. The older version (MacBook, 2008, Metal body) draws 0.15 W at no load. This is quite a difference.
0.15 W means if you left it plugged in for a year you would use 1.314 Kwh. Given a price of roughly $0.20/Kwh this would cost you about 25 cents per year. If the computer is on the whole time (at 14 Kwh) the cost would be about $25/year.
A: I measured my MacBook Pro’s charger, and the iPhone/iPad chargers, with a Kill-a-Watt-like device, and it didn’t seem to use any significant power when plugged into the wall on its own (e.g. it was less than 1 watt).
BUT:
*
*I’m not sure if my device is sensitive enough to measure very small amounts of power though.
*your mileage may vary. If you’re interested in this sort of thing, I’d get a little dongle of your own and do some measuring. Mine cost about £5.
A: Given the different circumstances, a charger for the iPhone 4/4s/5/5s/6 can be plugged in for 24/7 without a difference with charger. A minor current that is less than 0.01 percent of a watt goes into the basin of the charger and isn't enough to even be considered a worry. It'll equal out to a third of a cent a year.
A: I wouldn't recommend doing this. Also, never keep your devices plugged in constantly... This will reduce its battery life. It's a good idea to do a power cycle every month to keep a healthy battery (let the battery go down until it dies, then recharge fully).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7700",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "26"
} |
Q: Is there any global Finder setting for "Keep Arranged By"? Is there any global Finder setting for "Keep Arranged By"?
I know I can set it on a per folder basis pressing Option - Right Click:
It is painful having to do this for every folder though...
Jonathan
A: Right-click on the background of the folder and choose "Show View Options". Set it up how you like and click on "Use as Defaults". "Show View Options" is also in the View menu in the top menubar or even available via "Command + J" on your keyboard.
That's the theory, but honestly I've had mixed results with this.
A: No, unfortunately there is no global setting for this. If you press ⌘+J in any folder window it opens a dialog where you can set the default view and the sort parameter but this only applies to this folder or any child folder you open directly from this folder. You could also run an Automator script to apply view styles to subfolders of specific folders on your Mac
Here's a good article on how it works and what your options are
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: iOS: how can I disable calendar alerts? Is it possible to disable alerts coming from the Calendar app? I am talking about the on the screen pop-ups that come before the start of an event. You can turn off the alert sound in the Preferences, but I don't see an option to turn off the alert pop-up.
(My iPhone calendar is synchronized with Google Calendar, and so I already alerts through some other means, and don't want to get them one more time on the iPhone.)
A: Settings > Notifications > Calendar Here you can select the types of notifications you want for all types of Calendar events, eg you can turn on or off banner pop-ups, sounds, or both, etc.
A: No, you can't disable pop-up reminders globally.
You can turn off an alert by accessing the event properties in the Calendar app, but then
it will be disabled in Google Agenda too.
A: From iOS 8 there's a circled "i" besides calendars that you can click on to manage settings for individual calendars. At the bottom is the toggle for whether to display notification for this calendar.
It is not a global setting but you can toggle it one by one for each calendar, including the Google ones. This should not affect the notification settings you have in the Google Calendar app itself.
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: On Mac, can one easily automatize repetitive work? Let's say I have some repetitive work on Mac which requires click menu A, then give some input, click button on and on.
Can anyone easily automatize these kind of tasks with Mac? What kinds of options do I have for it?
A: Automator on Mac is certainly one of the most underused apps. Using it doesn't require a long time of learning. All you have to do is to understand the way it works.
You'll find the answers to your questions in this tutorial.
By the way, in case you'd like to get the most out of your Mac, check this out also:
http://automator.us/leopard/index.html
Let me know if you managed to create your first Automator workflow ;)
A: Automator has a Watch Me Do mode that can be used to record mouse and keyboard inputs. Eggplant might also be useful.
A: Text file manipulation, image and audio file munging, can happen easily using shell, Ruby, Python or Perl scripts. You can use Ruby to control browsers, write scripts that imitate browsers and log into sites, copy the content and parse it, looking for specific phrases...
If you need to automate a word-processor or an app with an interface, you can do it sometimes - depending on whether the app supports AppleScript/Automator events.
So, it really depends on what you want to do but a good starting point is to read about Automator, which comes with Mac OS. There are also sites with pre-canned scripts you can download such as Apple Download's "Automator Actions" site.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I create HTML emails on Mac? I'd like to know the best way to create gorgeous mail templates such as Jumsfot's Stationary Mail ones and send them without having to use Safari.
Is there a way to do this easily?
A: I've tried this once, when Apple discontinued the iCards, but I wasn't able to do anything that looked nearly as good.
There is a tutorial here: The Graphic Mac
The full documentation is available at Apple's developer site.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Creating a shortcut for Zooming (maximizing) windows that actually works on every app? As of MacOS 10.6.6, there's no keyboard shortcut that I know of for zooming (maximizing) the window.
There's ⌘M to minimize, though.
I made a custom shortcut, defined it on the keyboard preferences pane, but as it identifies the menu command by name ("zoom"), it clashes with other commands in some applications, for example this one I'm using right now, Firefox. It briefly highlights the view menu, giving me a hint that the command matched by "zoom" is inside that menu, but in this case, zoom is just a submenu that has the options zoom in and zoom out, but it's obviously not related to zooming the window.
Is there any other way of setting this shortcut to work in such cases?
A: The following Applescript will trigger the zoom button (that´s button 2) in the frontmost application´s window.
You could make this a service and define a global shortcut for it or use an application like quicksilver to call it.
tell application "System Events"
set frontApplication to (get name of every process whose frontmost is true) as string
tell process frontApplication
click button 2 of window 1
end tell
end tell
A: I have assigned this script to ⌘M with FastScripts:
try
tell application "Finder" to bounds of window of desktop
tell application (path to frontmost application as text)
set bounds of window 1 to result
end tell
on error
try
tell application "System Events" to tell (process 1 where it is frontmost)
click (button 1 of window 1 where subrole is "AXZoomButton")
end tell
end try
end try
It doesn't work if you have multiple displays though.
Applications that support maximizing windows to fill the screen:
*
*BetterSnapTool
*BetterTouchTool
*Breeze
*Divvy
*Flexiglass
*iKey
*Keyboard Maestro
*Moom
*NuKit
*OptimalLayout
*QuicKeys
*RightZoom
*SecondBar
*ShiftIt
*SizeUp
*SizeWell
*Slate
*WrongZoom
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: skin for iPod touch 4G that works with universal dock I am looking for a thin/tight yet robust rubberish/silicon skin for my latest iPod touch 4G. It should have a single black or dark gray color and not not have any pimples or ripples.
Simply put: as unobstrusive and robust as possible.
Also the iPod touch still should fit into the apple universal dock.
Wich skin would you suggest?
If you can't come up with one that works with the dock, could you at least suggest a general good skin (thin, tight, robust). I have tried the "COOL BANANAS Value Pack for iPod Touch 4G" and it is really not worth its money.
A: rather than find a skin that fits into the universal dock, you should find a skin you like and then change the piece of plasic that changes the size of teh dock connecton to one suitable for your iPod Touch and teh skin/case.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why can't I use .app bundles symlinked into /Applications as default in the 'open with' dialog? I have installed emacs with homebrew, with the --cocoa flag, which makes homebrew create an .app bundle in /usr/local/Cellar/emacs/<version>/Emacs.app. I have symlinked the .app bundle into /Applications/, to make it easy to open. The problem is that when I try setting file associations for files, I can't set Emacs.app as the default (the Add button is greyed out):
Now I could just copy or move the .app bundle into /Applications/, but that would require me to copy it over again every time emacs is updated via homebrew. Is there some other way to solve this?
A: I don't know why, but I have figured it out that if I make the symlink to the Contents directory, then associations work fine.
That is I do the following in a terminal window, using my personal Applications folder as an example:
% mkdir ~/Applications/Emacs.app
% ln -s /usr/local/Cellar/emacs/23.2/Emacs.app/Contents ~/Applications/Emacs.app
Something about putting the symlink inside the Emacs.app gets the bundle recognized.
A: Weird. I just installed emacs through brew and it automatically updated the "open with" dialog to include Emacs.app ;
But you should be able to do the following: Directly after opening the "choose an application" dialog, press "/" to get a "go to folder" window. Enter the following path:
/usr/local/Cellar/emacs/
and from there navigate to the Emacs.app (at the current version this should be /usr/local/Cellar/emacs/23.2/Emacs.app) and select it as default application.
========
Could you please run the following command to see whether Emacs is registered in your LaunchServices DB?
/System/Library/Frameworks/CoreServices.framework/Frameworks/LaunchServices.framework/Support/lsregister -dump | grep Emacs
A: If it's not something you do often, you can navigate to the place where Emacs.app is really and assign it from there.
Did you try to change the "Enable: Recommended Applications" dropdown? I believe there's a "All applications" option. Maybe this one will let you select your alias.
You said you symlinked the .app. Did you use ln -s? If so, did you try using an alias instead?
--
I don't know homebrew very well, but it look like you can extend homebrew with external commands.
Try to look if you can get the updated .app file and cp to /Applications.
A: My solution is to create a symlink of /usr/local/Cellar in /Applications. Then, you can find the emacs.app you need to use with the "Open with" dialog (in /Applications/Cellar).
Alternatively, you may use RCDefault (a freeware app) to config the file extension association.
A: The exact paths to your applications shouldn't matter. Once you open the application and close it once, it should add it to your LaunchServices database.
Try rebuilding your LaunchServices database by entering the following terminal command:
/System/Library/Frameworks/CoreServices.framework/Versions/A/Frameworks/\
LaunchServices.framework/Versions/A/Support/lsregister -kill -r -domain\
local -domain system -domain user
After doing this, open MacVim. It should then populate the Open With... options. Note that MacVim does not automatically associate itself with many file types (unlike, say, BBEdit, which shows up as a default option for almost any file type), only text, code, and html-type files tend to
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Limit Growl to one app only Is it possible to limit Growl notifications to one App only? I'm really bothered by notifications by Adium, Bowtie and lots more but I don't want to deactivate each of them manually.
Something like a whitelist for Growl-enabled apps would come in quite handy here. Any ideas or suggestions?
A: Very simple: Go to System Preferences --> (other) Growl --> then choose the applications tab. From here you can choose which apps you want to give growl notifications.
A: The trick is to let everything alert you, but by default make the alerts invisible. For the one or two apps you want, customize them to be visible.
To make alerts invisible, under Display Options you could set it to default to SMS and give a bogus number, or find some other technique.
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How do the audio controls work on "The Daily"? The Daily, Rupert Murdoch's new iPad-only app, has a narration feature where a professional actor reads the stories.
I can't for the life of me figure out how it works. There is a headphones icon that starts it, and then you get a fast-forward arrow and a stop square. But the fast forward arrow just seems to activate the carousel, not jump to the next story. And the story you get when you press play seems random.
And I think there's only narration for some of the stories, but I'm not sure, since I can't find a controlled way to navigate.
Can anyone help to explain how this feature works in detail, so I'll stop feeling like my mom and cursing at the "broken machine"?
A: The part starting at about 3:30 of this YouTube video might help.
A: How do I deactivate auto audio @ startup? Currently when I open the app on iPad it disables any other audio I am listening to and cannot read the Daily while listening to radio or music.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
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} |
Q: MacBook Air issue: Keyboard and in built mic failing The keys 9,o,l and . on the keyboard of my MacBook Air have stopped functioning all of a sudden. Instead of the intended characters, random characters from the same row as the faulty keys appear.
Also, the built-in mic is failing.
What could be the problem?
EDIT: The keyboard and mic problem started to appear after a defective screen panel was replaced a few days ago. I wonder how that could have caused the side effects I'm experiencing.
A: Well to me that sounds like hardware failure. I'd suggest that you just take it in to your local Apple Store or AASP; I don't see why they WOULDN'T replace the necessary parts (I don't know the MBA assembly well) if it's under warranty.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I change my display settings if I can't see my screen? I have a macbook in clamshell mode that's plugged into an HDTV for display output. Yesterday, I changed my display settings via the System Preferences. However, I inadvertently picked a setting that is not supported by my screen, and now I can't figure out how to undo the change. The screen is blank.
I can open my laptop and go to dual-screen mode and change the settings there, but as soon as I switch back to clamshell mode the system picks the broken display settings again.
A: Try to to go /Library/Preferences/ and search for com.apple.windowserver.plist. It's the file that gets updated when you modify the display in System Preferences (I just tried).
According to this Apple KB, it's safe to delete it. So move it on your desktop and try to reboot.
A: From the command line, cscreen lets you adjust monitor resolution.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is there an alternative to Find my iPhone to track a lost/stolen iPhone with SMS support? I bought an iPhone 4 recently. I've been using Find my iPhone but I find it a little limited.
First, you need to have Wi-Fi or 3G to be able to deactivate or send a message. That consumes a lot of battery. Second, if you have only 3G enabled (which seems to be a more viable solution), the accuracy isn't that good. I've done some tests and it has detected my phone 100m away from where I am. And finally, if none of those are on, you can't lock your phone with a password, otherwise whoever has it won't be able to turn Wi-Fi or 3G on.
A friend who uses Android told me about LostPhone, which is capable of doing all the lock and alert functions by SMS too. I dug a bit and found FoneHome and TapTrace, but none of them seem to be SMS capable.
Does anyone know a solution to this?
A: If you lose your phone or it is stolen, it is likely to be miles away from your home and just knowing this allows you to use the 'Find My iPhone' feature on www.me.com to remotely wipe (and/or kill) the phone, or to make it bleep and put up a message if you realise you've left it at your friend/family-members' house.
An SMS-based app would require you to have another phone to find/lock/wipe your iPhone, plus there's always the chance that you forgot to run the app following a reboot, or that it crashed.
"Find My iPhone" is built into iOS, so you don't have to remember to run it.
Although 3G does use up more battery than 2.5G or 2G, this is not the primary cause of battery drain in a smart phone - try quitting some your apps to find out which one is draining the battery.
Also, read through the comments on the link you posted - there are some real unhappy users there who post about the problems. I wonder how many Android phones are out there that somebody could SMS-spam with the magic command to remotely-kill their phone....
A: iLostMyi on BigBoss repo. You're in luck cuz a demo trial was just released today. I think it's exactly what you're looking for. It looks pretty cool.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7740",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Striped Macbook mouse pointer For a few months my Macbook (white, 1.83Ghz Core Duo, OS 10.6.recent) has been showing the mouse pointer in a strange way. It's as if alternating vertical rows of the pixels making up the pointer are transparent instead of black. The following photo shows it (try squinting a bit) against a white background:
It makes using the machine pretty frustrating as the pointer gets lost easily, leading to furious swiping on the trackpad in the hope of catching sight of it.
I've restarted the machine, installed all updates, reset the PRAM, reinstalled from a Time Machine backup, etc. I'm beginning to suspect a hardware issue, albeit one of the craziest I've seen (and this machine has a long list of hardware problems).
So, anyone seen this? Know how to fix it?
A: What is happening is the cursor mask processing is corrupted. It's often one of the first signs of hardware failure in the video system but still could be software.
To rule out software you will have to boot from a clean source (install the proper OS onto an external drive, erase your drive and reinstall if you have a great recent backup, or just boot from an install DVD to see if the pointer masking is still mussed up.)
Hardware failure will persist across software installs. It would be worth trying a safe boot - boot with the shift key pressed from the sound until you see the grey apple.
This will let you know it's something you added to (or has failed on) the mac after the OS was first installed. A clean install will fix things but you'll want to watch as you reinstall apps in case it's a conflict and not just something that broke along the way in the software. It's possible but not likely you reintroduced the corruption if it was saved on the time machine backup you restored. Did you notice if the cursor was fixed when you booted to the clean system?
My experience is this is more often caused by faulty hardware - specifically a faulty GPU or faulty VRAM. This non-unibody mac almost certainly has Intel integrated graphics which use part of the RAM as VRAM. You could try isolating your RAM to see if that helps. If you have a good stick of memory, you would install that while removing your potentially faulty RAM from the system. Also - you could catch one bad stick of RAM by first removing the "left" stick and booting. Then remove the right stick and put the "left" stick in the right side. That way you'll detect a single failure of the ram slot or ram sticks by moving things around and testing.
Even though it's irritating, I've seen machines run for stable for years in this state. It's a tiny part of what the GPU does and that machine otherwise was running in a closet and no-one cared most of the time what was on the screen except for when we needed to update or reboot it. You could get a program to make the mouse larger - but that doesn't cure the real issue.
The official service diagnostic (as opposed to AHT - the bundled hardware tests will not find this failure) for your machine will diagnose this failure, but I wouldn't pay much to run that since you can rule out the cheaper fixes by the steps outlined above. Hopefully it's the RAM or the software - both of which are relatively cheap and not too time consuming to fix. I have had good luck seeing this diagnosed for free at the genius bar so if you're close that might be worth a visit for help isolating it as well as getting a repair quote.
Good luck!
A: I am aware this is old, however this happened to me when I attached an old USB mouse. For some reason the cursor started displaying incorrectly like the image posted but for all cursor types.
All I had to do to fix it was change my monitor resolution to scaled 720p and then back to what it was originally. The cursor now is displaying correctly.
A: Based upon what Tom C said I simply plugged my monitor into my MBA. that fixed it on MBA monitor and external monitor. After unplugging the external monitor it was still fixed on the MBA display.
A: One of my Mac users has had this happen several times. Although unlike the picture above the "stripes" are horizontal, not vertical. The cursor stays in this state. This causes problems in, for example, Outlook, when attempting to resize a calendar event. Moving the cursor to the edge of the event normally changes the cursor to a double headed arrow, so you can drag the bottom edge of the event to change a half hour meeting to an hour, for example. When the cursor gets "stuck" in the state described above, the user can't make the change they want in Outlook. The only fix I've found is to restart the computer. This fixes it every time. However, this problem has persisted from El Capitan through Sierra.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: iPhone E-Mail Cache This is a general iPhone usability question. I wanted to know if we can clear contact cache in email of iPhone mail account?
A: This isn't possible right now, but many people have filed a radar report to request an option to reset this cache in the Settings app (in the same view where it's possible to reset your network settings, etc..).
The only way would be to clear the entire contents of your iPhone and don't restore from any backup.
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to make command-key shortcuts work again? I've just upgraded from 10.5 to 10.6.3 and all seemed to go OK, except that now no keyboard shortcuts work in any application. The keyboard viewer shows me that the command keys are working fine, and some global shortcuts work fine when I've configured them to (e.g. command-space to produce the Spotlight search box).
But all applications (e.g. Finder, Safari, Chrome, Terminal) ignore any shortcuts I type at them, even if I use the keyboard viewer to type them.
Oh yes, one other strange anomaly: in Chrome, if I type command-C, it brings up the Developer Tools window if the selection is in the main body rather than the URL box.
Another anomaly I've just found: in the iTunes search box, the backspace key and the arrow keys don't have their usual function - they produce blanks. If I copy that text, it seems the key codes are going through uninterpreted (here I typed 'a' followed by backspace, left arrow, right arrow, up arrow, down arrow):
% pbpaste | od -c
0000000 a \b 034 035 036 037
0000006
%
What on earth is going on, and how can I stop it?!
A: This may not help directly but have you tried creating another account on the system to see if you experience the same issues?
If a new account does work then I am willing to bet a plist file in ~/Library/Preferences/ got messed up or not upgraded to the new 10.6 format. I recall a similar key mapping issue when I went from 10.4 to 10.5.
A: Ok I had the same problem and fixed it. I went through all of the Keyboard settings for the Command keys and applications and hit "Restore Defaults".
A: My cmd + alt + ctrl keys did't working.
My solution: Go to System Preferences -> Universal Access -> Keyboard -> Set key repeat ... and assign the default input for any key because the were turned off!
I think that this info can be really helpful for someone ;)
A: Try a repair permissions in disk utility. Sometimes permissions problems after an upgrade can screw up normal functioning of system/application files
A: You could try "jiggling" your keyboard layout by temporarily selecting another layout in SysPrefs>Language & Text>Input Sources. I've no idea if that might help, but it's something I'd try.
A: I have now solved this problem by deleting my user account and creating another account with the same name (but a different UID) using the original home directory.
Some folks at Apple support were baffled by the problem and said they hadn't seen anything like it. If anyone knows where the problem was lurking, I'd still love to know.
A: Ok, a found a solution that worked for me. This might not work and it's probably not the proper way to do it but it worked. Go to System Preferences>Keyboard>Turn on show Keyboard and Emoji Viewer in menu bar, then go to the bar and open keyboard viewer, then press the command key and if it doesn't light up, then press all the keys on your keyboard and then try Command + Q or something. Hope this helped!
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to download all my Flickr content? Are there any free apps to download my entire photostream from Flickr?
Or at least as much content as possible? I want to quit my Flickr account.
A: http://www.malarkeysoftware.com/projects_PhotoGrabbr.html
This great piece of software will do it.
Beware though, if don't have a pro account, you can't download the high resolution originals.
A: You can also try Bulkr - http://clipyourphotos.com/bulkr. It has a one click button to backup your Flickr photostream. Also, title, tags, description and geotag info embedding into EXIF is supported.
A: Or you can give flickery a try (www.flickeryapp.com) - it's a full-featured flickr client, downloads EXIF info as far as I know and is currently on sale 48% off on the Mac App Store.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7750",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is there a way to use different network connections for different apps At work we have a firewall that prevents certain outbound connections. But I also have a Clear wireless personal hotspot. I would like to use the work connection for normal requests but for certain requests such as my Mysql app, I would like to use my personal wireless. Is there a way to do that without having to switch back and forth. So all mysql connections just know to use one network interface while other requests use the default.
A: I've asked the same question a long time ago on superuser.com
https://superuser.com/questions/181882/force-an-application-to-use-a-specific-network-interface
A: I suggest you look in to routing with iptables. I can't remember how off the top of my head, but it would definitely be possible to just catch packets going to a certain host/port and push them off through another interface.
A: To separate traffic by app (and not by destination) would require an OSX version of something like ForceBindIP (for Windows only). No matter how you change the routing tables or ipfw, if you have 2 apps that are trying to reach google.com, they will use the same interface, same route.
You might be able to approximate the same kind of behaviour by running each app in a chroot jail that can see only a limited set of devices, and restrict it to a single interface. But that would take a whole lotta configuation for each app.
A: I'm pretty sure there's a way to do this using IPTables, but I'm not an expert at that so I can't really give you detailed information. However, that may point you in the right direction.
Essentially you would set a route for all outgoing connections on the port you connect to with mysql to use that wireless connection.
A: This is most definitely possible, but like the other people here, I don't know how to do it. Just that it certainly can be done.
Try asking in https://unix.stackexchange.com/.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7753",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: iPhone 3G bluetooth unaccessible This is all that's happening. My laptop, my other mobile and my desktop computer all see each other. But my iPhone just keeps "searching".
Any tips on what to try?
A: Without a jailbreak, iPhone Bluetooth only supports headsets and wireless tethering. Developers can also use the Bluetooth API to allow apps to communicate but this has limited functionality. So basically your iPhone won't discover your phone, laptop (unless it's a MacBook) or desktop because it's not designed to do so. With the MacBook, it appears that the only functionality allowed is data tethering and no file transfers or other features are enabled.
A: Theres a possibility that the last time a firmware was applied, it mucked the bluetooth part. I would suggest a redo from iTunes.
Also, you might want to download the iPhone Configuration Utility so that you can peek into the system logs. Might be a chance theres a log stating why it cant work.
From personal experience, sometimes, certain apps can muck somethings too. I've done these two actions.
(1-tedious but data safe) remove suspected apps one by one from the device and retrying the BT search again in between apps removal.
(2-knee jerk & data erased, pls avoid if you really cant part with your data/contacts) backup the device (backup at itunes, backup contacts to sync-able services like yahoo or ms exchange, backup pics and other data to computer), then restore firmware/factory defaults. without restoring your data, test the bluetooth - see if it works.
If it does, theres something on your previous setup that is causing it not to work (can be app, or data). Install apps and data one by one and testing BT in between installs to identify which apps is the culprit. Also, you need to recreate/copy/restore/resync your contacts and other data from scratch (not from itunes as it will only bring back the problem again)
Good luck!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7755",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Safe to post iOS crash logs in public? One of the iOS apps I use has been crashing a lot more than usual lately, so I'm posting about it on their forum. I've got a bunch of crash logs.
Is it safe to post iOS crash logs in a public place? Is there any PII in them?
I see a lot of hashes in them. Are they completely arbitrary/random, or do they contain my hardware address or something?
A: Crash logs are safe to post in public. There is no identifying information about you in them. All of the random looking text you see are addresses of the various methods that get symbolicated by Xcode into method names. This lets the developers see the exact line of code that caused the problem.
Also know, it is harder to symbolicate crash logs that have been copied and pasted. It would be more helpful for the developers to get your crash logs in the original .crash file.
It looks like this is no longer the case, I had no problem copy and pasting a crash log and symbolicating using the latest Xcode.
A: No - it is not universally or unequivocally safe.
Any programmer could save very personal data plainly, so you are at the mercy of the designers and programmers to sanitize and not expose any personal data in a crash.
The security by obscurity (values are in hexadecimal) is pretty good and the chance of something sensitive getting exposed is very very low, but sharing a crash report publicly could be hazardous to your privacy.
I would say don't post anything until you really understand what a device GUID is and how to read a stack trace or hexadecimal characters. Also your risk is directly affected by the nature of the program. Tiny Wings knows nothing because I've told it nothing. It's also unlikely to have scanned my address book or location/contact information.
On the other side, my banking program has to store PIN numbers and things I enter clearly before it encrypts them. 1Password works with sensitive data like my social security number. Even though the program may eventually store the data encrypted - a crash report can crash at the point where the data is being turned into something you see clearly on the screen - a sequence of digits. Basically, for a fleeting moment, the data is not protected.
The general question "Is it safe to post?" has to be no without other qualifications on the data stored in the app. Especially when posting it to something so public and permanent as the internet.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7757",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Mac Pro Memory - Should I use 8 RAM slots in dual-channel mode or 6 RAM slots in triple-channel mode? I have a Mac Pro tower with a 2 x 2.66 GHz 6-Core Intel Xeon chipset, and 8 RAM slots. I have been told because of the processor's triple-channel memory capability that I should be installing RAM modules in sets of three. I do a lot of compiling on this machine and want to maximize all the hardware I've got. Does it follow that I should avoid installing RAM in the last two slots?
A: The direct answer to your question is you will get marginally higher peak memory bandwidth with 6 matched memory modules running in triple channel mode than you will with 8 matched memory modules in dual channel mode. However, there are no guarantees that your machine will perform the tasks you use it for any quicker in either mode. You need a more in-depth analysis than that. Firstly, here are the memory replacement instructions for your Mac. In summary, the instructions for your model go like so:
Dual-processor computers have eight
memory slots, four per processor. You
can install 1 GB, 2 GB, or 4 GB DIMMs.
Each processor’s memory controller has
three memory channels. DIMM slots 1,
2, 5, and 6 have their own channels;
slots 3 and 4 share a channel and
slots 7 and 8 share a channel. For
optimal memory bandwidth, all six
memory channels should be used, and
memory should be balanced across the
six channels. Note: Populating slot 4
or 8 slightly drops maximum memory
bandwidth, but depending on the
applications used, overall system
performance may benefit from the
larger amount of memory.
If you have Fill in these slots
Two DIMMs 1 and 2
Three DIMMs 1, 2, and 3
Four DIMMs 1, 2, and 5, 6
Six DIMMs 1, 2, 3 and 5, 6, 7
Eight DIMMs 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, 6, 7, 8
To determine whether you would benefit from more total RAM or from keeping your RAM in triple channel mode would require benchmarks. It's difficult without measuring usage to say whether there will be any benefit from adding more RAM. If you run a compile with Activity Monitor running are you using all the RAM you have? Is disk I/O particularly high? If disk I/O is high but your RAM is not fully utilised you may be better off with an SSD hard drive to run your compilations from rather than adding RAM, check for paging to disk during the compile. The important thing here is to find the bottleneck rather than hoping that adding RAM will make things run quicker. It may even turn out that the CPU or the compiler is the bottleneck. If you have two 6-core CPUs, can your compiler use all that processing power?
I know I've probably raised more questions than I've answered but it's worth considering them if you're looking for a performance improvement for your investment.
If you are a programmer you probably understand these concepts anyway but here's a link to a codinghorror article just explaining the process of finding bottlenecks which I think is easy to read. The OS in this case is windows but the principles are the same. You can use Activity Monitor or a third party resource monitoring tool to determine the bottleneck.
For example, to determine whether your system is running out of RAM, fire up Activity Monitor. Near the bottom of the window, select the tab button labelled 'System Memory' and take a look at the pie chart and figures listed beneath. Here's an example from my system.
The figures in this screenshot you should be interested in are Free and Page Outs. Free shows how much RAM is currently available, Page Outs is an indicator that your system is running out of RAM and has had to write temporary data to disk. Anything above 0 in Page Outs means you could potentially benefit from more RAM. You could perform whatever activity you expect to push your system with Activity Monitor open and monitor these figures throughout. This should help you determine whether you will get any benefit from more RAM. For completeness, here's what each item represents.
*
*Free: Memory not in use
*Wired: Data which must remain in RAM and can't be moved to disk
*Active: Data which is currently in memory and has been accessed recently
*Inactive: Data which is currently in memory but is no longer being used. For example, if you recently quit an application, its data is kept in memory for faster relaunch but it will be used by other application if you run out of Free memory.
*Used: The sum of Wired, Active and Inactive memory
Here's a really nice link too for Mac performance questions http://www.macperformanceguide.com/
A: It all depends on whether you need raw RAM speed or a higher total amount of RAM. Today's RAM is so fast you may not notice the drop from triple channel to single channel. However, considering you can easily put 12GB or more in the first 6 slots using two 3-channel kits, there's really not much reason to use all 8 unless you need to max out the machine for some reason. And just code compiling will not require so much RAM to need to do that.
So, in summation, I'd recommend sticking with two 3-channel kits to still get a large amount of RAM at the fastest speed.
A: In almost all consumer or end user uses of a Mac Pro, it's highly unlikely that memory transfer speed will be a performance bottleneck (the reason that SSD's became such an important upgrade despite the initial high cost is that file access times affected almost all Mac users). Where memory bandwidth would count is in scientific use (where the Mac Pro is being run flat out on processor and memory intensive activity).
Lloyd Chambers of Mac Performance Guide did some very in-depth tests of how memory affects performance back in June 2009 when the Mac Pro 2009 first came out. Chambers in particular tests against Photoshop and various raw processing utilities. His conclusion:
Whenever it’s a case of disk access versus memory, more memory is always as good or better. This applies not just to Photoshop, but to the ability of the system to use unused memory for caching, which speeds up all programs.
Bottom line: forget about 8 modules vs 6 and get what you need eg 16GB vs 12GB.
For some perspective, don't forget that 8 sticks (dual processor configuration, dual channel) is 50% faster than 3 sticks (single processor, triple channel).
In my own use (web development, photo processing, research), I'm running 32 GB in dual channel (6 core Mac Pro 2009). I have noticed no slow down over 24 GB in triple channel after trying both. On the other hand, running out of memory will slow your computer down to a crawl.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How can I combine multiple screenshots in Skitch? With Skitch, I often find myself wanting to take screenshots of different parts of the screen, annotating them, and combining them into one image. I could use a separate program for this last step, such as Acorn, but is it possible to do this from within Skitch?
A: Can't do it with Skitch, as noted. But LittleSnapper will work. It creates an image for each screen, then you can drop them all into a photo imaging app and compose into one image.
A: Nope, not possible within Skitch.
The quickest workaround I've found to achieve that is using Keynote as a canvas, so you can combine the image in no time :
*
*open a new 'White' theme in Keynote
*drag & drop the 2 images from Skitch to Keynote
*align the images in Keynote, resize, do some edits if necessary
*take a snapshot with Skitch
A: It's funny, Skitch has some weird limitations, so I use Powerpoint for this. Insert two screenshots, side by side, group them together then ctrl-click to "Save as Picture"
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7765",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "15"
} |
Q: Odd cputype in /bin/ls binary I just started with Charlie Miller and Dino Dai Zovi's Mac Hacker's Handbook and was doing the tutorials. This includes getting to know things like 'otool'
otool -f \bin\ls
Fat headers
fat_magic 0xcafebabe
nfat_arch 2
architecture 0
cputype 16777223
cpusubtype 3
capabilities 0x80
offset 4096
size 39600
align 2^12 (4096)
architecture 1
cputype 7
cpusubtype 3
capabilities 0x0
offset 45056
size 35632
align 2^12 (4096)
I tried to find something about that first cputype in /usr/include/mach/machine.h, but found nothing. Clearly I am missing something.
A: cputype 16777223 is “x86 64” (64 bit mode); 7 is “i386” (32 bit mode). Incidentally, 16777223 == 0x1000007, so bit 24 means “64 bit”.
Looking in /usr/include/mach/machine.h (pointed out by …/mach-o/fat.h, which seems like a reasonable place to start), we find the following:
⋮
typedef integer_t cpu_type_t;
⋮
#define CPU_ARCH_ABI64 0x01000000 /* 64 bit ABI */
⋮
#define CPU_TYPE_X86 ((cpu_type_t) 7)
#define CPU_TYPE_I386 CPU_TYPE_X86 /* compatibility */
#define CPU_TYPE_X86_64 (CPU_TYPE_X86 | CPU_ARCH_ABI64)
⋮
#define CPU_TYPE_POWERPC ((cpu_type_t) 18)
#define CPU_TYPE_POWERPC64 (CPU_TYPE_POWERPC | CPU_ARCH_ABI64)
⋮
Of course, you can also just add the -v option to your otool command to have it show the symbolic values:
% otool -vf /bin/ls
Fat headers
fat_magic FAT_MAGIC
nfat_arch 2
architecture x86_64
cputype CPU_TYPE_X86_64
cpusubtype CPU_SUBTYPE_X86_64_ALL
capabilities CPU_SUBTYPE_LIB64
offset 4096
size 39600
align 2^12 (4096)
architecture i386
cputype CPU_TYPE_I386
cpusubtype CPU_SUBTYPE_I386_ALL
capabilities 0x0
offset 45056
size 35632
align 2^12 (4096)
A: As far as I can figure out, intel FORTRAN-compiled objects use a cputype 16777223 but gcc-compiled objects use a cputype of 7
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7768",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Share iTunes library using a blank disk image? Is it possible and safe to share an iTunes library between users on the same Mac using a blank disk image to hold the library?
The goal would be to have all albums in one place only and to be able to handle sync'ing both iPhones to the same library and holding all backups on this image. Also this simplifies library management and backups (we switch computers every 6-9 months)
What I'd be afraid of are things getting "screwed up"
Also with this solution is it possible to use 2 iTunes accounts?
A: Why go so far as a disk image? Make a folder both users can access (maybe /Music) and put the iTunes library there.
Using one iTunes library with multiple accounts depends on how you use them. The best way is to have a primary account that is signed in and all purchases happen with that account, then authorize the machine for any other accounts that want to play music/sync apps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7769",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: View Song Lyrics in iTunes Assuming I have songs with lyrics already added to them, how do I easily view them when listening to a song?
A: With reference to the current version (iTunes 10):
Without adding third party software, you will need to actively select the currently playing song to view its lyrics.
*
*⌘+I opens the Info window for the selected song
*esc closes the Info window
If you open the Lyrics tab in the Info window, it will open in the same tab the next time you open it.
Visualizers
If you want to view the lyrics without interacting with your Mac, you might want to consider adding a third party visualizer. One such visualizer is Cover Version (freeware).
(NOTE: With OS 10.7.4 & iTunes 10.6.3, CoverVersion shows my lyrics with a upper case letter height of three pixels. I opened the info window and changed the font from 12 pt. to 144 pt., but it didn't change the Viz. But it's open source, so I could fix it if I were sufficiently ambitious.)
After you have installed the visualizer, you will need to select it in iTunes. For example:
View > Visualizer > Cover Version
*
*Use ⌘+T to toggle the visualizer on/off
*You can choose the menu item View > Visualizer > Options... to configure some visualizers (For example, in Cover Version you can switch off the background graphics to make the lyrics easier to read)
Other Third Party Software
If you want to display lyrics while using your Mac for other tasks, you'll need to use a third party application.
Examples include:
*
*Get Lyrical from Shullian Productions (Donation Ware)
*LessLyrics from Ixhan (Freeware)
A: I’m not sure how long it has been there, but the last three or more versions of Music/iTunes have lyrics display built in. When a song is playing, if it has lyrics installed, the lyric icon will be highlighted. Tap it, and the lyrics appear. When the next song starts, the lyrics will automatically change, too. Unfortunately, they don’t automatically scroll.
A: There's no built in way without right-clicking/control-clicking the song and selecting Get Info but you can download widgets such as Desktop Lyrics
A: Get Lyrica from the Mac App Store, it's only $2 and worth much more. This will find lyrics for songs in iTunes and add them automatically to the song file. Very cool.
As to displaying lyrics automatically when the song plays... sounds like a feature Lyrica should add! I'll mail the developer.
A: I search a lot about this issue before and the best free solution I was found is to use Get Lyrical. it didn't use your lyric that added to them with iTunes.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7773",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Macfusion - how can I auto connect on boot? I have Macfusion automatically running when I boot, but how can I have it automatically connect to a server? Can't find this anywhere..
A: Depending on your version of MacOS, you may be able to use Lingon to create a startup script that runs after you login to your mac. You will likely need to figure out a command line equivalent to whatever you currently do in the finder to connect to a server. Run that command in the terminal to verify it works, then create a script using Lingon to execute the command immediately after you login to your Mac.
The project used to be hosted on SourceForge, but "as of 2009-07-06, […] is no longer under active development". See new link above.
A: Turns out MacFusion is garbage just in case anyone wondered so I abandoned this idea and went back to Cyberduck
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7777",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why are there two different sleep states on a MacBook? It seems that there are two different sleep states on my MacBook:
Sleep State 1:
*
*Invoked by: closing the lid or by the sleep timer.
*Awaken by: touching the trackpad, clicking the trackpad, pressing a key, or opening the lid.
Sleep State 2:
*
*Invoked by: Apple Menu > Sleep (or its keyboard shortcut).
*Awaken by: touching the trackpad, clicking the trackpad, pressing a key, or opening the lid.
You'll notice that the main difference between the two is that in the first one you can simply touch the trackpad and the computer will wake up.
I have two questions:
*
*Why are there two different sleep states?
*Are there any other differences between them besides the one I mentioned?
I'm not sure if this is relevant or not, but I changed my MacBook's settings to cause Sleep to only Sleep and not the default 'Sleep and Hibernate'.
A: There are really three, sort of, but they're not exactly as you described:
*
*Display sleep: The screen goes blank after a certain amount of time. You can wake up the screen by touching the trackpad or pressing a key.
*Sleep: In this state, the computer goes to sleep: the hard drive stops spinning and the CPU uses much less (almost no) power. This can be invoked by closing the lid of the laptop, selecting Sleep from the Apple menu, or via a timer. You wake up the computer by opening the lid or pressing a key.
*Hibernation: If the battery is almost dead, the laptop will hibernate to save power. This is similar to shutting down, except all the contents of RAM are dumped to the hard drive, which makes it much faster to start up (as well as starting the computer up into the previous state). You have to hit the laptop power key to wake the machine from hibernation.
A: One just sleeps the display cuz that is the biggest battery drainer and is quick to turn back on.
The other sleeps the display, CPU and hard disks and takes longer to turn on again.
I'm sure someone else has more to say on this though, so I'll leave it to them.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7778",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Deleted hash files; can't login anymore! I've deleted the two hash files in the folder /private/var/db/shadow/hash/, corresponding to my login account. Now, I cannot login, and don't have any other account on my Mac with sudo permissions.
Is there a way in which I can reset my password? If not, will it be possible to access data belonging to this account? My other accounts do not have permissions to these folders.
A: You can boot into the terminal by holding Command + S at startup. You could create a new user via command line this way. Here is a tutorial. Another option is to insert the installation disc and reinstall the Mac OS X.
A: changing my comments to an answer since Jon was able to solve it using single-user mode
Can you login using single-user mode? hold command-s on startup.
I don't know how to reset the password via command line, but if there's a way to do it via command line you should be able to do it via single-user mode. It logs you on as root. Maybe check man passwd?
Also, check out this question: How do I recover the administrator or root password on OS X?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7787",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Lock screen on mac? w/o enabling "require password after sleep"
Possible Duplicate:
Is there a quick way to lock my Mac?
I want to be able to lock my screen on Mac, much the way Windows+l does on windows. I do not want to have to put in a password each time my computer sleeps/screen saver turns on. I want a keyboard shortcut to lock the screen while still allowing the computer to wake from sleep without a password. I don't want my session logged out or suspended in any way.
Note* I would like a keyboard shortcut for this.
A: You can do this with Keychain Access, if you enable its menu bar icon. Directions here.
I'm not aware of a keyboard shortcut, sorry.
A: The WindowsKey + L combi works to lock the desktop (doesn't necessarily put it to sleep or start screen saver), in Macs its a little different in definition. To "lock" the desktop in Macs you would need to invoke a screen saver or turn off the display with a "Require password after sleep or screen saver"
To put the display to sleep the key combi is Cntrl+Shift+Eject. If your account has no "Require password", it wont ask for a password when it comes back on. (note: this isnt a "sleep" command - it just turns off the display, mac is still up and running).
Another method is to assign a hot corner to "put display to sleep"
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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} |
Q: QuickLook for files with no extension or an unknown extension I'm a programmer, and I find Mac's QuickLook a really great feature for quickly becoming familiar with a particular code base. Basically, I open up a Finder window in the directory where my code files are, I push the spacebar (to evoke QuickLook), and then I arrow key up/down/left/right through all the files and scroll within QuickLook as needed.
The problem that I run into are files with no extension and files with unknown extension. How can I convince the Mac to attempt to QuickLook these files as text files (which they usually are). Also, it's really nice how QuickLook automatically colors the code based upon the type of code it thinks it is. How can I extend the types of code files that the Mac recognizes? For instance, I want to be able to QuickLook the code in a *.html.erb file or a *.js.erb file.
A: Update 2021 Jan
If you are running macOS Big Sur (11.1) and you can't get QuickLook previews of certain files even if you installed QLStephen and other plugins, this is what worked for me.
Background
In macOS, each file is assigned a UTI. UTIs are used to identify file types (these are the types you see in the Kind column in Finder or in the Kind entry in the General section of the Get Info window). For example, a .txt file (a "plain text" file) has the following UTI: public.plain-text.
To check which is the UTI of a particular file, you can run:
mdls -name kMDItemContentType ~/my-file.ext
where ~/my-file.ext is the path to the file.
QuickLook checks the UTI of a file to choose a QuickLook generator to use for display. The QL generators that get shipped with macOS can be found in /System/Library/QuickLook/.
QL generators have the .qlgenerator extension and you can see their content by right-clicking on them and selecting Show Package Contents. Inside the folder Contents there a file named Info.plist. This file lists which UTIs that generator will be used with.
So, the Info.plist of the Text.qlgenerator will list, among others, the public.plain-text UTI. Any file that has that UTI will be previewed using Text.qlgenerator.
The generators found in /System/Library/QuickLook/ are locked, meaning that you cannot (in principle) edit them.
This is where the QuickLook plugins that can be found on the internet, like QLStephen, come in. These plugins are installed in ~/Library/QuickLook (note that this path starts with ~/, meaning it's your user Library and not /System/Library/) and extend QuickLook capabilities. In other words, they provide the system with new generators that work with UTIs not covered by the system's own generators, or extend them.
Problem
When you reassign the application a file type is opened with (e.g. Info > Open with > [app] > Change all`), the application might assign that file type a UTI that is not the default, meaning that QuickLook won't recognise the UTI and won't assign any generator (and you just see a file icon rather than the content of the file).
For example, the plugin QLColorCode should preview the content of LaTeX .tex files, but in my case it wasn't. This is because I selected Sublime Text as the app that opens .tex files, and ST has assigned a UTI that is different from the UTI used in QLColorCode for .tex files.
Solution
The solution to the problem is simply to let the QL plugin know that it should also work with these "non-default" UTIs.
To do so, you just need to edit the Info.plist file of the plugin in ~/Library/QuickLook (do not try to edit the system generators in /System/Library/QuickLook).
More specifically, you first have to locate the following lines in Info.plist (to open and edit this file, you right-click on it and select TextEdit):
...
<key>LSItemContentTypes</key>
<array>
<string>public.source-code</string>
...
</array>
...
Then, you have to add the "non-standard" UTIs in the array, like so:
...
<key>LSItemContentTypes</key>
<array>
<string>public.source-code</string>
...
<string>dyn.ah62d4rv4ge80g5dx</string>
<string>dyn.ah62d4rv4ge81e5pe</string>
</array>
...
As mentioned above, to get the UTI of a particular file, do:
mdls -name kMDItemContentType ~/my-file.ext
In the output, you will see something like this:
kMDItemContentType = "dyn.ah62d4rv4ge80g5dx"
The string between double quotes is the UTI of ~./my-file.
After you have added the UTIs, just save the Info.plist file and close it.
Now QuickLook should work with the chosen generator for the files whose UTIs have been added in Info.plist.
To be on the safe side, you can run the following to reset QL and its cache:
qlmanage -r
qlmanage -r cache
Fin
A: Take a look at the QuickLook Stephen plugin, it opens almost everything I throw at it (as long as it is text based).
A: Fantastic details, much appreciated. A few added items I ran into:
*
*If the ~/Library/Quicklook/ directory doesn't exist, you must manually create it.
*In my case, I wanted to extend text previews for .bat and .log. So I had to create the subdirectories for the Text generator Text.qlgenerator. When I look in /System/Library/QuickLook/ I see directories that I don't have in my home directory. These commands create the Quickview subdirectories if I didn't have them, then copy the system file into my home directory:
mkdir -p ~/Library/Quicklook/Text.qlgenerator/Contents/
cp /System/Library/Quicklook/Text.qlgenerator/Info.plist ~/Library/Quicklook/Text.qlgenerator/Contents/Info.plist
*Next, I determine the UTI with the command provided:
mdls -name kMDItemContentType ~/my_file.bat
kMDItemContentType = "dyn.ah62d4rv4ge80e2py"
*
*And then edit the plist file to add the UTI dyn.ah62d4rv4ge80e2py to my plist file in ~/Library/Quicklook/Text.qlgenerator/Contents/Info.plist
*Finally, I can check the quicklook worked correctly with the qlmanage -p option. This prints some debug info and then opens the QuickLook preview window on this file:
qlmanage -p ~/my_file.bat
A: The simplest way I've found to accomplish this involves installing the plugin QLColorCode. This is a great plugin that includes syntax highlighting of source code for a number of languages.
Once it's installed, it's very easy to add support for additional UTIs (Uniform Type Indicator). Get the UTI for your particular file by opening Terminal, or your preferred terminal app, and using this command:
mdls -name kMDItemContentType /path/to/file.ext
This should result in something like this:
kMDItemContentType = "dyn.ah62d4rv4ge81s7dg"
Then navigate in Finder to ~/Library/QuickLook. Right click on QLColorCode.qlgenerator and choose Show Package Contents. Open Contents/Info.plist in a text editor. Find the following code:
<key>LSItemContentTypes</key>
<array>
<string>public.source-code</string>
...
</array>
On a new line after <string>public.source-code</string>, add <string>dyn.yourUTIhere</string> for each new UTI you want to add.
Save the file, then run these commands in Terminal or your preferred terminal app:
qlmanage -r
qlmanage -r cache
Files with the UTI you added should now open in QuickLook.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7799",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "24"
} |
Q: How do I stop iTunes from automatically assigning a hollow star rating to podcasts? I’m having a problem with podcasts in iTunes. Here’s how it seems to work:
*
*I listen to a few episodes of a podcast, rating them as I go. (I use the 2-star rating to mark podcasts for deletion once I’ve listened to them. I use higher star ratings for podcasts I want to keep.)
*Once I’ve rated a few (I’m not sure how many), iTunes seems to give the podcast’s “album” a default average rating. This is shown via hollow stars, as opposed to the filled stars for user-assigned ratings.
*This rating gets assigned to all episodes of that podcast, which means:
*
*Episodes of this podcast no longer show up in my “unrated” smart playlist
*If the automatic average rating is two stars, episodes of this podcast show up in my “To delete” list.
Is there any way to stop iTunes doing this auto-rating? Maybe a plist setting or something?
A: I'm not aware of any way to turn this off. Perhaps you could work around this issue by giving the podcast "album" a rating of 3 stars?
Then your smart playlist for delete could check for 2 star rating. Your smart playlist for "unreated" would check for 3 star rating. Your smart playlist for "keeper" could be 4+ stars…
A: I have been having this problem and while I don't use the rating quite the way you do, I get annoyed when new episodes are automatically assigned a rating.
I found this solution tonight for iTunes 12.5.1. I selected the podcast which was getting auto assigned (2 stars in my case). It's a very frequently updated podcast as episodes are short. I set View->View As->List. In the upper right corner there is a circle with three dots across the middle. Click on that and the rating option appears. I set the default back to no rating and all the hollow star auto ratings went away, even for episodes I was finished listening to.
A: When I listen, for the shows I want to save, I tell iTunes to save them all. If there are a few I don't want, I eventually go out there and manually delete them. Otherwise, I have iTunes delete everything I have listened to.
A: I’m currently working around this issue by deleting any podcast subscription that gets the automatic hollow star rating, then resubscribing to it straight away in the iTunes Store. That seems to get rid of the hollow stars for a while.
If I’ve saved any podcasts from the subscription, I just tell iTunes to put them in the Trash, then drag them out of the trash and back into iTunes after I’ve resubscribed. They go back into the right place, and the hollow stars don’t reappear for a while.
A: Try assigning a rating to the overall podcast item. Then, click just to the left of the leftmost star on the same line. That cleared it for me.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7805",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: iPhone headset mic button not working The little button that sits on the microphone of my iPhone headset stopped working.
Normally, pressing the button will pause a song, go to the next song if you double-click it, and go to the previous song if you triple-click it.
Now the button doesn't do any of these things, but the headphones and mic are working fine.
A: I discovered that the contact was not flush with the top of the iPhone but was a little bit above. When I looked inside the headphone jack with a flashlight it looked somewhat strange at the bottom. I straightened out a paperclip and managed to fish up a small lump of pocket lint that had probably been forming in there for half a year or so. Just wanted to deliver this as a tip for anyone who runs into the same problem, before you send your headphones back to Apple as broken as so many people seem to have done.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7806",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: How can I force MacOS to make a binary conversion of filesizes in MB, GB...? I noticed that MacOS (10.6) makes a decimal conversion for file sizes, instead of binary:
Is there any way to force it to make binary conversions instead in Finder? Because my mind kinda works in powers of 1024, regarding the file sizes.
A: Unfortunately, you can't. See this apple support document which explains that since 10.6 they started measuring storage capacity according to the decimal GB (Gigabyte) rather than binary GiB (Gibibyte) values. This matches up with how hardware manufacturers measure the capacity of storage devices. OS X 10.5 and earlier, along with iPhones, iPads and iPods still use binary measurements.
A: This was changed when OS X 10.6 was released. It is not user-configurable, unfortunately.
Related xkcd (comic) strip:
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I allow the cursor to continue moving immediately after clicking the trackpad? I have a Macbook, though I assume this behavior occurs on all of Apple's newer trackpads (the multitouch ones where the entire trackpad acts as a button).
For a split second after clicking the trackpad, the cursor won't move (try it!), even if you continue sliding your finger across it. This probably improves usability in some areas (like double clicking), but I don't like it. Is there a way to disable this behavior?
Edit:
I went to a local Best Buy, and every single Macbook had the same behavior. The pause is for only a split second. If you try spam-clicking as you move your finger across the trackpad, does the cursor move at all? If you click fast enough, it won't move.
A: I tried moving the curser with my left-hand, and clicking with my right as I dragged. Nothing unexpected happened; The curser changed temporarily during the click then reverted.
A: This really isn't a problem in practice. Your brain gets all the little nuance and adjusts to these refinements with ease. Most come to depend on them and other hardware / OS starts to feel wrong. ( just as you do at present )
If you have exquisite motor control, you will end up with the tracking setting very high. The demo macs might be set up even slower than the default to prevent surprise to people using them on the less than ideal store setting.
Set the double click speed to max and the tracking to max and see if you can immobilize the cursor.
A: It does do this exactly as you say. A way around it is to enable 3 finger dragging, and then instead of clicking, just add 2 more fingers. It will essentially act as a click & hold but it won't pause.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Bootcamp partition migration On my old Macbook pro I had a Windows 7 64bit Bootcamp partition. When I got my new Macbook pro I transferred the Bootcamp partition to the new computer with Winclone. Now when I try to boot into Windows 7 it immediately goes to the BSOD. I can however boot into that partition just fine using VMWare Fusion.
Does anyone have any idea how to fix this? My only guess is that it's either a driver issue or perhaps has something to do with the fact that I got the new Mac with a SSD.
A: This has nothing to do with the SSD, but rather the drivers. Your new MBP has a completely different chipset and CPU, which prevents Win 7 from loading. When installing Win 7, it makes a specific install for your specific hardware. When you are dealing with a different chipset/CPU, those "drivers" if you will are so low-level that they cannot be updated/modified.
You can try booting into safe mode. When your computer starts to boot into Win 7, hit F8 repeatedly. If the Windows boot logo comes up, you have waited too long. When you get to the menu, select Boot into Safe Mode from the list. It might allow you to boot into Windows, but I'm guessing you will still get a blue screen.
If that is the case, the only way to fix it is to do a fresh install of Win 7. Although you can try to boot from the Win 7 DVD and try a repair, in my experience, this will not work.
A: I highly doubt you will be able to boot Windows 7 on the new machine in Boot Camp without doing some massive, massive troubleshooting and driver changes. I've tried many a time to do the same thing - move a Boot Camp partition to new machine and 100% it goes horribly. Windows makes its install specific to your hardware, unlike an OS X install, which can detect what hardware it's running on when you boot.
By far your best, easiest and fastest course of action is to reinstall Windows onto the new machine. Make sure you have your Windows product key handy, it's quite likely you may need to call Microsoft to get them to change the activation to the new machine (darned DRM schemes).
You can boot into VMWare because VMWare uses its own specific drivers, fired from the custom BIOS and other virtualization tricks it uses.
A: The BSOD should might give you, or one of the readers of your question, an idea of what is going wrong.
Before you proceed further, you absolutely need to create a full backup of both the Mac and the Windows partitions.
Since it is Windows 7 it might then be worth a try to boot from the Windows 7 DVD and see if it can repair it.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
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} |
Q: How do I use a keyboard shortcut to execute a shell script I wrote, passing the file selected in Finder as an arg? I suppose you could have it pass in whatever was selected in general in any app (such as text highlighted in a web browser).
A: Use Automator. Generate a .app. A keyboard shortcut can launch the app, and Automator knows how to grab the Finder selections, which it can then pass to the shell script.
A: The easiest way to do this, assuming you're using Snow Leopard, is to create an automator service and assign a keyboard shortcut to it using System Preferences.
Here's a tutorial to get you started:
http://www.pixelcorps.tv/macbreak235
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7823",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Using a MacBook Air in the sun? Will using a MacBook Air out in the sun damage it at all? Will it affect any of the paint, the screen, distort the laptop's form, cause excessive heat, or cause any other damage?
A: It's a good idea to keep the machine shaded, if only because it's very hard to read any screen in bright sunlight. Also, on my deck in Carmel Valley California I've had a thermometer placed in direct sunlight read well over 100 deg F (37+ deg C) when the air temp has been around 80 deg F (26 deg C). Your Mac exposed in direct sunlight could well burst through Apple's upper limit even when the ambient temperature is below.
A: It shouldn't. Apple's specs page says that you can use the computer in an environment between 50 and 95*F, and up to 90% relative humidity.
As we know, you have to be careful with how hot a MacBook Air gets anyway (it will always shut itself down before it becomes really damaged). But as for the paint, screen, form, etc., you should be fine as long as it's < 95* in the sun.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7827",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Time Capsule Interface List Per my other question on monitoring network throughput, I now have a series of graphs, some of which are distinctly non-obvious as to what they are.
Is there documentation on what every interface on a Time Capsule (in this case, current generation, 1TB Wireless N Base Station), pollable via SNMP are?
Here is the list that is available:
gec0
ath0
ath1
wlan0
wlan1
wlan2
wlan3
vlan1
rxq0
A: gec0 and vlan1 are the most important for monitoring overall traffic flow.
gec0 corresponds to the local traffic (behind the firewall) and vlan1 represents external traffic upstream to the internet. I haven't seen anything that makes sense what gec0 but on larger cisco switches they were internal routing queues where packets went to get headers constructed and routed across Vlans in the switching fabric. Perhaps it's the same on airport hardware.
athX are wireless vlans
wlanX are wired vlans
Apple used to publish MIBs for SNMP back when the first Airport Extremes were around but I don't know of anything better than using a generic MIB for the more recent hardware.
There used to be more information on these ports up at http://www.uname.nl/closer-look-airport-extreme/ but I can't find it anywhere (since archive.org respected it's robots.txt directive) - the best is a dated summary from http://gigo.com/archives/blog/monitoring-apples-80211n-airpo.html
A: The wlan[0..3] ones are the wired Ethernet ports.
ath0 and ath1 are the wireless (2x antennas, this is an N model, isn't it?)
vlan1 is a virtual LAN. Lots of documentation around about those, just google it.
Not sure about gec0 and rxq0. One of those is the WAN port. The other.. dunno.
A: I too was looking for a more definitive answer as to the port names and there real functions. I found this like that explained them in better detail:
http://www.staze.org/airport-extreme-dual-band-and-snmp/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7828",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Can I test iPhone apps downloaded from iTunes in the iPhone Simulator? Is it possible to test iPhone applications which you downloaded from iTunes Store in the iOS Simulator?
A: Afraid not. The simulator runs on x86 architecture and the iPhone apps are published to run on ARM.
A: That is not the intended purpose of the iPhone Simulator. The purpose of the iPhone Simulator is to give developers a convenient testing platform for the application they are developing in those cases where a physical iPhone isn't readily available. It is currently not possible to install applications compiled by other developers within your own iPhone Simulator.
As for testing apps, The App Store does not support demo versions of software or a way to "try before you buy" akin to shareware. The closest developers can get to that paradigm is by offering a "lite" version of their app for free and then a separate, full version for purchase.
A: No.
iPhone apps meant for an iOS device or App store are compiled by Xcode completely differently from the apps meant for the iOS Simulator (from the same source code, so this Simulator is only good for testing the source, not the App store binary). Completely different and incompatible instruction sets, so no simple hack is possible.
Added:
In addition, apps downloaded from the App store are partially encrypted, so that only an actual device can see the all executable code at all.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7832",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Lost iPhone, what action to take? Suppose you lost your iPhone or it was stolen and with your MobileMe subscription you have the choice of tracking it, locking it, displaying a message or remote wiping the phone. What would you do and in which order to maximize your chances to get it back?
A: No need to suppose, that just happend to me (somewhat).
Preventive measures
As of today, suppose you have an iPhone 4, iPad or new iPod Touch running iOS 4 and you had previously activated the free MobileMe "lost my iphone". Then you're in the best situation of all. Suppose you don't have any of the new iDevices, but still are on iOS 4 and want to activate it for free. There are ways around that, for now, if you can borrow a new iDevice.
All you got to do in that situation is go to the website and get the measures of your choice. It will depend on how you lost the phone. If you know it was stolen, lock it first; don't display any message and track it down. Wiping is always the last resource, unless you're paranoid about leaking data. Be aware you will lose the ability to use everything else - it will reset to factory defaults. If you just forgot it somewhere, send an SMS first - maybe you'll get lucky.
There are also many tools on Cydia store to locate an iPhone - lost or not. I personally use and enjoy Longitude. It's, by far, the cheapest one and does the very basic stuff - send location to Google Latitude within a time interval you set. Enough for me.
But all that will only work for a couple of days at most. After all, iPhone battery doesn't last too long with 3G enabled. And, of course, only if it's turned on.
Taken by surprise methods
You may have not prepared yourself for the worst. Or you may have done it, but found out about your lost iPhone too late and it's now turned off, battery dead or being re-sold in the black market after being wiped already.
There are 2 additional steps to do. Both include reporting it lost or stolen to the carrier. If you just ask for a phone lock, you can save yourself from a big bill made by someone ill intentioned calling to China. That's the SIM lock and it can be undone later at any time.
Now suppose you didn't have a passcode lock on the phone and have no MobileMe. Then all your data is available to the finder / thief of the iPhone. That can concern a lot of people.
There comes the last measure - disable the phone through the IMEI. On most phones you need to have written down the IMEI before it got lost. It may be on the manual, box or some place else. On iPhone, tho, that information is on iTunes and easy to find.
Make a police report on lost / stolen, get the IMEI, call the carrier and the phone should become useless. Supposedly, nobody will ever be able to use it as a phone again - not even you. My carrier promised me the phone doesn't even turn on anymore. While that's probably not true, at least your data will be supposedly wiped. (disclaimer: I'm still trying to verify all those suppositions)
If the thief wipes the phone (by reinstalling the iOS) you won't be able to track it through iCloud / find my phone / or any other tracking app, but the IMEI block is still worth doing. More and more carriers are starting to enforce the IMEI blocks on stolen phones unless the person with the phone goes back and argues to get it lifted. I don't know what would happen then, but I would suppose unless the person had a sales receipt, the carrier wouldn't serve that device after it being reported stolen.
A: First of all I would go onto the Find my iPhone site and let my iPhone be located, if it looks like its in the same area as me I would play the noise to see if I could find it. If it was somewhere I've been recently - ie where I lost it I'd lock the device, then play the noise & put a message on the screen, if it's somewhere I've not been (ie someone has taken it) I'd lock the device then display the message, if I didn't have a response within an hour then I'd wipe it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7837",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I mirror the display from an iOS device to an Apple TV? Is there a way to mirror the display of an iPod Touch or iPad to the Apple TV using AirPlay?
I know I can do it for Applications that support it, but for presentations it's often useful to just mirror the whole display, e.g. when wanting to show something in Safari.
A: If you have an iPad 2 and a iOS developer's account (or patience until this fall) you can try the hot new iOS 5 feature:
AirPlay Mirroring for iPad 2
A: If you're OK with a wired solution that doesn't use AirPlay, you'd be best off just connecting the device to the TV itself (not the Apple box). Cables/adapters for that (I haven't tested any of these):
iPad/iPhone/iPod Touch 4G ==> HDMI
iPad/iPhone 4/iPod Touch 4G ==> VGA
iPad/iPod Touch/iPhone/iPod ==> Component/RCA
A: On the same line of a wired solution, not airplay, there is an app available in cydia if you are jailbroken called TVOut2 Mirror that works good.
http://tvout2.webs.com/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7843",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Deleting photos from an iPhone Is there a tweak that lets me delete any photos from my iPhone - including the ones uploaded with iTunes?
A: You can definitely do it on the phone, but if you have a lot of photos, that could take a while.
Assuming you are on a Mac...
Connect your iPhone to your Mac and open Image Capture (in your Applications folder). Click on the iPhone in the device list and it will start building a list of all of your photos. Once it's done, you can select the photos you want to delete (Cmd-A to select all) and then click the delete button at the bottom of the window (looks like a red circle with a slash through it).
A: If you don't care about the other data on your phone, you could erase the phone's data (including the pictures in those albums) by going to Settings > General > Reset > Erase All Content and Settings. Warning: all your data will be lost.
A friend of mine actually had the exact same problem a few weeks ago and ended up using this method.
A: When you are in the Photos app, simply press anywhere in the image you are viewing, and the toolbars will appear. On the far right of the bottom toolbar, there is a trash can icon. Simply press that, confirm you wish to delete the photo, and that's it. If photos keep coming back that you have deleted, then be sure you are not syncing an album that replaces those images.
A: Without using a computer, you have basically 3 options:
*
*wipe your phone (as others have pointed).
*get an app that sync your stuff, such as "Picture Safe" or iFiles. it will require preparation, the photos must be added to the app rather than syncing on iTunes.
*jailbreak. then you'll at least be able to delete all the synced photos only. one way is trough iFile. go to /private/var/mobile/Media/Photos/ and delete it. The synced photos are in there but all "encoded" into databases, unlike the photos taken by the phone. There are ways to decode them, but I don't know of any on the iPhone.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7845",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: How do I change a calendar's color in iOS 4.2.1? This is very similar to this question however the only problem is that I'm running solely Windows OS on my PC. I also only sync with google calendars and that's all. However, it appears the sync doesn't match the calendar colors. Is there anyway to synchronize or directly change colors on the iPod/iPhone?
A: A partial-workaround is suggested on this Google thread:
There is a workaround that solved the problem for me.
The iPhone assigns calendar colours in
this order: red, orange, blue, green,
purple (then repeats that cycle). So
the first step is to switch off
Exchange syncing for Calendars in the
iPhone settings then go into the
m.google.com/sync web app and just
enable one of your calendars. Then
re-enable Exchange syncing. Now you'd
think it would colour that first one
red and it may do in your case but for
me it coloured the first calendar
orange, possibly because I had some
other local calendars already on the
iPhone.
If it colours your chosen calendar
with a colour you were not expecting,
just start again (disable
Exchange/change sync settings and
re-enable) and take whatever colour it
chose as the starting point in that
cycle above. Once you've got the first
calendar/colour combination working as
you like, go back into
m.google.com/sync and select the
calendar you want to go with the next
colour in the cycle. Wait a few
minutes. Check that it's showing up as
expected in the calendar app. And then
go back to m.google.com/sync and
repeat. If you take this one calendar
at a time approach, you can assign
colours as you want them, except of
course you will face problems if you
have say three green calendars and no
purple ones...
A: I just opened calendars in google on my laptop. Changed the colour of it there. Then just clicked the sync button on my iPod in the list of calendars. The colours and name changes just synced. I have iOS 5.1
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7847",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iPod lyrics hiding things in <> ... workaround? I bought a CD, ripped it and copied it to my iPod Touch. Then I found the lyrics on the internet, confirmed that they're the same as in the album booklet, and pasted them into the lyrics section in iTunes.
Everything's great, except for one track. It's a collaboration, and in the lyrics, before each section, it says who's doing that part by putting their name in <>. For one artist, it looked fine, but for the other, the line was blank!
What gives? And what workaround is there to make both artists names appear?
A: After a bit of experimentation, I found a workaround. The artist whose name wasn't appearing has a name that starts with an ASCII character. It looks like iOS is trying to be clever, and ignoring anything that looks like it might be an HTML tag, even if it really isn't!
One simple workaround is to put a zero-width space (you can copy/paste one from that article) right after the <. Your iPod will no longer assume it's HTML, and it will display just fine!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7849",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: What's in the "Other" category on my iPad? When I sync my iPad, iTunes tells me that Video accounts for so many gigabytes of space, Photos another portion, etc. etc. But iTunes also tells me that a whopping 5.5 GB is being used by "Other". What could this possibly be? If it's not video, audio, photos, apps, or books, what's left taking up that amount of space? I don't have that many contacts...
Of course, you don't know specifically what is and isn't on my iPad. But any thoughts as to what this could be? I'd like to reclaim some of that space if I can.
A: The stuff in the Other category is typically documents that have been deleted on the iPad, and also documents that are in use by various apps (for example, PDF documents that are in use by GoodReader, or docs from the iWork programs). Sometimes these documents are available via the Apps tab in iTunes, other times not; it depends on the program. For example, Documents to Go and GoodReader can manage their own documents outside of iTunes using Dropbox.
Deleted documents should be cleared out when you sync with iTunes. Sometimes, due to a known iTunes bug, the Other category won't shrink as expected.
There's more at these Apple Discussions threads:
*
*http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=12908823
*http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2715603
A: Well when I normally have that on my iPad it's just items I've put on it while I've had it attached to my computer as usb device, that means it's just like a usb drive where you can put folders (in my case backups) and stuff on.
It will normally show up in your explorer or on a mac in your devices list.
Maybe you should check there?
A: I just had the same issue....and per one of the answers above, deleted iBooks so they wouldn't sync but it didn't help. But then I scrolled down further and noticed "audio books" were checked. I unchecked that box and instantly my "other" went from 12.4 GB down to a trace.
So, many thanks for the lead!
A: iBooks are counted as "other" storage.
My wife had over 27 GB of "other" space taken up on her iPad. I randomly decided to open up her iBooks app and upon deleting all of the books in that app, her "other" category dropped from 27 GB to virtually nothing.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7853",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "15"
} |
Q: What's the best way to test the battery life on a MacBook Air? I just recently got a MacBook Air and noticed that its battery life is much lower than Apple's estimate of 7 hours.
Since it is not the same, I would like to benchmark my battery life right now (while the battery is fairly new) so that in the future when the battery feels like it isn't holding as much charge, I can know if it's due to the battery life diminishing, or if it's simply my perception that the battery is not holding as much as it used to.
For example, say I find out that my MacBook Air only holds 5 hours of battery life today. A year later, I may notice that the battery isn't holding as much power, and decide I want to benchmark it. I test it again, and find out that its still holding 5 hours of battery (it just seemed like it was holding less). So while it's less than the 7 hours promised by Apple, my battery hasn't actually degraded at all, since it matches the same benchmark I used before. Thus, there is no point of replacing its batteries.
I have several programs running in the background (BetterTouchTool, KeyRemap4MacBook, DropBox, iAntiVirus), which I expect to be running throughout my MacBooks life. Do you think that when performing these battery benchmarks I should quit these applications or leave them running? My guess is that I should quit as many applications as possible to reduce the chance that one of them won't behave exactly the same between benchmarks.
Ideally I want the benchmark to not last a long time so that I don't waste time benchmarking, however, at the same time, I don't want to overheat the battery which could cause permanent damage.
Ideally the benchmark should not require me to be present at the computer and use it constantly (this would mean that I would need to temporarily disable the sleep timers), since then it wouldn't actually reflect a reproducible benchmark (e.g. if I need to use Facebook for 5 hours constantly during each benchmark, its VERY unlikely that I will do the exact same thing during both benchmarks... not to mention that Facebook's code a year later may be less or more efficient, causing more or less battery usage). Thus, I'm thinking an automated program which keeps using the battery at a consistent rate would be the best tool for the job.
Also, how would I know how long the battery lasted? I don't want to sit near the computer and constantly monitor if it's still on or not. I want to be able to set it and forget it. Then after recharging it, it will inform me of how long the battery lasted.
Do you have any suggestions for things that might help perform these kind of benchmarks?
A: Actually, an Apple battery gives you the percentage of its original capacity that it currently has. You can access that number through the free CoconutBattery app.
If you want to do your own benchmark, I recommend using BOINC and supporting a grid computing project, like SETI@home. These basically use 100% of your CPU from the moment you turn the program on until the moment you turn it off. This drains the battery pretty quick. Just be careful to check temperatures to make sure the computer doesn't overheat, especially with a MacBook Air. You probably should quit extra apps, but it shouldn't matter too much.
A: I just found out that there's a related feature in OS X called "Battery conditions".
It's supposed to let you know when your battery is no longer holding as much charge is it originally could. You can access the feature by ⌥-clicking on the battery icon in the menu bar.
A: You can also check out Watts which will help you calibrate your battery.
Battery Health monitor could also help you.
Let me know how it's going on!
A: Rob Griffiths (@rgriff on Twitter) just tested the battery life of his 11" Air. He'd be a good person to ask about testing yours.
A: Please feel free to downvote my answer because I'm not really answering the question. I guess a mod could just delete this.
Instead, I have an axe to grid with Apple's battery life claims. Their seven hour claim is based on a default install of Max OS X on your MBA and a single instance of Safari browsing the internet over WiFi, looking at web pages that are mostly text (read few images and NO FLASH!).
Who does that? Who cares? If you do that, you're battery will last a long time...
<over-the-top-rant>
This is similar to car manufacturer MPG ratings, fast food "restaurant" pictures of their products and walkie-talkie range claims. That is, in PERFECT conditions, things are awesome! Otherwise, caveat emptor.
</over-the-top-rant>
To try to avoid downvotes/deletion (too late), I'll say that I can't really recommend a good way to establish a baseline battery life that is a repeatable test to determine battery wear and tear, but I'll tell you that I use iStat Menus to track my battery life and it does a good job tracking battery life, remaining time until discharge, remaining time until fully charged and tracking remaining battery health (among other things).
You might check it out: http://bjango.com/mac/istatmenus/
Good luck and sorry for the rant :-)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7857",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Binding a keyboard shortcut to shut down I want to bind a gesture in BetterTouchTool to the shut down menu that is invoked by pressing the power button on my MacBook Air.
It's fairly simple to bind gestures to keyboard shortcuts, so what I'm really looking for is a way to bind a keyboard shortcut to the shut down menu. You can't use the power button in BetterTouchTool, so I need to bind it to a standard keyboard shortcut such as Command+Shift+S.
A: You don't need to map the power button, that menu is already mapped to control+eject
Other useful shutdown/restart/logoff key mappings are below which might be of interest too
Prompt to save work and restart the Mac - Control+Command+Eject
Prompt to save work and shutdown the Mac - Control+Option+Command+Eject
Sleep - Command+Option+Eject
Sleep displays - Shift+Control+Eject
If the computer isn't responding and you need to force it to power off, you can hold down the power button for 6 seconds, you'll lose unsaved work though.
These power shortcuts are listed on the apple support pages
A: Command Shift / will trigger the help menu. Press -> to get to the shutdown menu. Then you can scroll up to the shutdown option. Done.
A: While @Griffo's suggestion is useful, unfortunately the eject button cannot be used in BetterTouchTool.
In order to get it to work with BetterTouchTool, I did the following:
*
*Created a new shortcut in System Preferences > Keyboard > Keyboard Shortcuts for All Applications with the menu title Shut Down... and I chose my own keyboard shortcut.
*I then bound a shortcut key in BetterTouchTool to this new keyboard shortcut.
It works as expected. The only drawback is that there are now two Shut Down options in the menu: Shut Down and Shut Down... It's a minor annoyance which I'm not sure how to fix.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7859",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Replace Finder with Forklift Is possible to have Forklift open folders, paths, etc instead of Finder?
A: Discussion here on replacing Finder with nautilus.
You can add a Quit menu item to Finder and quit it like so:
defaults write com.apple.Finder QuitMenuItem 1; killall Finder
Now, run ForkLift.
You could try (WARNING: DANGEROUS) to rename ForkLift2.app as Finder.app and replace Finder.app, but I think this would probably just cause problems, possibly severe ones.
What do you mean by "open folders, paths, etc."? Almost all Finder interactions on my computer are initiated by me. Just use ForkLift instead. The only time something else uses Finder is if I double-click on a DMG, then it opens in Finder. If you have this, or other specific use cases that you would like to have interact with ForkLift, please clarify or post additional specific questions.
A: Add these to your ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.LaunchServices.plist
{ LSHandlerContentType = "public.folder";
LSHandlerRoleAll = "com.binarynights.ForkLift-3";
}
Then reboot.
BTW, this answer to Set ForkLift as default file viewer may also work.
A: The official site now suggests:
defaults write -g NSFileViewer -string com.binarynights.ForkLift-3;
defaults write com.apple.LaunchServices/com.apple.launchservices.secure LSHandlers -array-add '{LSHandlerContentType="public.folder";LSHandlerRoleAll="com.binarynights.ForkLift-3";}'
While for the SetApp version:
defaults write -g NSFileViewer -string com.binarynights.forklift-setapp;
defaults write com.apple.LaunchServices/com.apple.launchservices.secure LSHandlers -array-add '{LSHandlerContentType="public.folder";LSHandlerRoleAll="com.binarynights.forklift-setapp";}'
A: You can change default file manager like this, but ForkLift or Transmit not work as expected, only Path Finder are
#!/usr/bin/python2.6
from LaunchServices import LSSetDefaultRoleHandlerForContentType, kLSRolesViewer, LSSetDefaultHandlerForURLScheme
from CoreFoundation import CFPreferencesCopyApplicationList, kCFPreferencesCurrentUser, kCFPreferencesAnyHost, CFPreferencesSetAppValue, CFPreferencesAppSynchronize
applicationBundleIdentifier = "com.cocoatech.PathFinder" #"com.panic.Transmit" #"com.binarynights.forklift2"
LSSetDefaultRoleHandlerForContentType("public.folder", kLSRolesViewer, applicationBundleIdentifier)
LSSetDefaultHandlerForURLScheme("file:///", applicationBundleIdentifier)
applicationIDs = CFPreferencesCopyApplicationList(kCFPreferencesCurrentUser, kCFPreferencesAnyHost)
for app_id in applicationIDs:
CFPreferencesSetAppValue("NSFileViewer", applicationBundleIdentifier, app_id);
CFPreferencesAppSynchronize(app_id);
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7863",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Restoring mail from backup after hard disk died The hard disk on my iMac (Mac OS X 10.5.8) died, and after getting it replaced I have been trying to restore my files from backup. The backup I have is just a copy of my user directory. I copied the following files from backup to their corresponding location in my user directory before starting up Mail:
*
*Library/Mail
*Library/Mail Downloads
*Library/Preferences/com.apple.mail.plist
*Library/Preferences/comp.apple.mail.searchhistory.plist
Going into Mail, I see my email accounts, and I can look at the lists of email messages... but when I click on the message to see it, there's no message content.
The strange thing is that when I look in INBOX.mbox/Messages for the mail account, I can see the email message files (.emlx files), and opening any of these files I can verify that the message contents are there. But Mail won't show the message contents.
Any ideas on how I can fix this?
UPDATE: Thanks, everyone, for the feedback. It appears that just before my hard drive died I got some files corrupted, and that was the source of the problem. I tried restoring from a backup taken one day earlier, and that worked perfectly.
A: The email index probably needs to be rebuilt. Last option on the Mailbox Menu.
(And just in case, you do still have your backup, right?) :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7865",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is there a way to sync an iPhone 3GS with Mac OS X Tiger? We recently bought an iPhone 3GS for my stepson. He has my old iMac G5, running OS X 10.4.11 (Tiger), and iTunes 9.2.1.
When we connect the iPhone to this computer, we get an error window saying "The iPhone cannot be used because it requires iTunes version 10.1 or later. Go to www.itunes.com to download the latest version of iTunes."
However, the iTunes download page says that iTunes 10.1.2 requires OS X 10.5 or later, and indeed, trying to download and install that version results in an error window saying "This package type requires Mac OS X 10.5."
So, is there any way to get a version of iTunes that supports the iPhone 3GS and runs on OS X 10.4.x?
If not, would upgrading the iMac to Leopard solve the problem?
(This is all a bit surprising, because iTunes 9.2.1 worked fine with an older iPhone and with an iPod Touch. It's hard for me to imagine what new magic in 10.5 is required to support syncing with a slightly newer model of iPhone.)
A: Yes, upgrading the Mac to Leopard will work.
Each new iDevice has certain identifiers (model number, etc.). When Apple releases a new one, the old version of iTunes would need an update to recognize it. (Sometimes this even happens with new device OS/firmware versions.) They bundle these updates with feature and bugfix updates, so you're stuck with a new version.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7867",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Have recent updates caused the iPad battery to not last as long? I'm noticing my iPad battery seems to be going down very rapidly, even when not in use. Has anyone else seen this behaviour and what would be the most common causes?
A: Try several things:
*
*Close suspended apps. Double click home button, the screen items should raise and there is an extra row of apps appear at the bottom of the screen. Press and hold one of the apps that appear at the lower part of the screen (these are the apps that were suspended). When they start to shake/wiggle, press the red X on all of them to close them.
*Check your email settings and make sure "push" is enabled and the "Fetch" is set to less frequent options
*Your screen might be set to 100% brightness comparing with your previous usage settings
*If you don't use any Bluetooth device with your iPad, you could turn the Bluetooth off by going to Settings > General > Bluetooth. That saves some power.
*Try a hard-reset - full power off and on
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How can I read the log when I fail with VPN I have a Macbook Pro and I'm trying to get VPN from home to work. It refuse to work. I have turned on verbose logging, but how can I read the log ?
A: Whether you choose L2TP over IPSec or PPTP for your settings, the log file is located at:
/var/log/ppp.log
If you want use terminal to view your log file you can do following:
vim /var/log/ppp.log
tail -f /var/log/ppp.log (if you
want see end of file)
less /var/log/ppp.log (if your log
file was huge and want to see page by
page)
A: For completeness, I'll add a way to view the log in the GUI.
Open the Console utility, select Show Log List from the toolbar (if it isn't already shown), then select FILES > /private/var/log > ppp.log from the sidebar.
On macOS Catalina, the toolbar reads "Log Reports", then ppp.log
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "56"
} |
Q: Active monitoring and scheduled scanning in ClamXav? I want to use an antivirus app on my Mac, and I heard that ClamXav is a good one to use. However, I'm not sure how to use it.
All previous anti-virus scanners that I have used have two main features:
*
*Active monitoring
*Scheduled scanning
The first feature constantly monitors your system and when it detects a new virus file being created, it will let you know so that you can remove the virus before it does any damage.
The second feature will periodically (e.g. every week) scan your entire hard-drive to make sure that no viruses have made their way onto your hard-drive.
Is there any way to enable these two features in ClamXav?
A: From a cursory read of ClamXav's online documentation, it appears that both of those features are available.
*
*For Active monitoring, ClamXav allows you to specify any number of folders to watch (e.g. your Downloads folder) as well as having a way to scan incoming email and inserted disks.
*For Scheduling scanning, there is a preference pane which allows you to both schedule virus definition updates and perform periodic scans.
I would recommend reading their online documentation.
A: Sophos AV has been very active in educating the Mac Community that Mac Viruses DO exist. If you are concerned about this fact, then they have a free software solution.
It scans automatically in the background, and can be launched as-needed as well.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7879",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I do custom key binding in iTunes? How would I assign
*
*⌘1 to Music (Library item)
*⌘2 to Movies
*⌘3 to Podcasts
Surprisingly enough, these key bindings are not assigned to anything yet, and IMO they would be most convenient ones (see e.g. Mail.app).
I can't see any relevant item in AppleScript dictionary for iTunes…
A: For each Source/Library item (Music,Movies,Podcasts) you want to open with a shortcut, create a new Applescript as follows
tell application "iTunes"
try
set view of front browser window to (get some playlist whose special kind is Podcasts)
end try
end tell
replacing "Podcasts" with "Music” or "Movies", and save it with to your ~/Library/iTunes/Scripts folder (if this doesn´t exist, create it!), giving it an unique name (like "show podcasts","show movies").
Next, open "System Preferences">"Keybaord">"Keyboard Shortcuts" and select "Application Shortcuts". Click on the little "plus" button to add a new shortcut with:
Application: iTunes
Menu Title: show podcasts —this has to be exactly the name you gave your script
Keyboard Shortcut: <press your desired shortcut, eg. "cmd+2">
Now pressing "cmd+2" (or whichever shortcut you defined) while being in iTunes will open the Podcast library item.
A: Try going into Settings → Keyboard → Keyboard Shortcuts tab → Application Shortcuts in the left panel.
There you can add a custom shortcut to any specific application menu item. Just add itunes to the list and add your shortcut.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7881",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Recieving Error Code 60 connecting iCal to OS X Server I have a problem with my Mac mini running OS X Server 10.6.6. I want to use iCal and Address Book on my iPhone, iPad, and MacBook Pro.
*
*I started the two services without SSL.
*I installed port forwarding on my router: 8008, 8800, 8843, 8443
*I added the account on my iPhone and iPad
But now, on my iPad and Mac I get the error: Code 60.
What did I do wrong?
A: This may help:
*
*Open iCal on your client computer > Preferences
*Go to the Accounts tab
*Go to Server Settings tab
*Make sure there is a port number entered. It should match the port number being used by the iCal server. Originally, this setting was on "Auto" and it worked fine. The "Auto" option no longer works. Also, be sure to check "Use SSL" if you are doing so. (In my setup, I have it on port 8443, with SSL on.)
Also make sure everything has been updated.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7888",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: iPhone 3GS how to enable or subscribe for free Find My iPhone the free Find My iPhone seems to require an iPhone 4 for setup, even though it will work on an iPhone 3GS. How can I set up the service without an iPhone 4?
A: The service is only free to users of the iPhone 4, and if I recall correctly users of the iPad.
It’s a feature that’s part of MobileMe, but now it’s also free on every iPhone 4 with iOS 4.2.*
From the Apple Website, bold mine
To use this functionality on any other device requires a full MobileMe subscription. It is automatically active once you have the full subscription, along with a nice array of other nice features.
The Find My iPhone feature is available when you create a MobileMe account on your device, with a toggle option to switch it on or off.
I have been using the paid subscription for almost 4 years and have been extremely happy with it due to the amount of different devices I own.
A: You could try signing up for the trial of [MobileMe][1], set up Find My iPhone and then cancel the subscription before the trial period expires. I don't know if the Find My iPhone feature would stick around but it is worth a try. You may find that you like MobileMe and want to keep it, if so you can save some cash by buying the subscription from [Amazon.com][2].
Edit- http://www.apple.com/iphone/find-my-iphone-setup/
You don't need to have a full MobileMe account to use find my iPhone, just iOS 4.2. One step that they seem to leave out is that you should download the "Find My iPhone" app from the App store. I set up my iPad with it and now works.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7891",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Time Machine backup format Is the format of Time Machine's backups documented, or standard? Can I extract the files with a non-Mac system?
A: Time Machine is documented well at http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1427 and this discussion goes into sparse bundles and FileVault so it's worth a read http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1447315
Since backups to an attached hard disk are written as plain files - that would be easier to connect to a non-Mac system. Backups to a Time Capsule are stored in a disk image
in sparse bundle format, you will need to have software that knows how to mount those bundles.
Either requires your non-Mac system to be able to read HFS+ volumes - but once over that hurdle, you can simply navigate the Backups.backupdb folder and extract whatever files you need. The folder structure is simply organized by the time the backup completed.
A: It's barely a format at all. Time Machine just keeps multiple directories, each containing complete copies of your filesystem, using hard links to prevent storing unchanged files multiple times. You can get the files off just by copying them out of the correct directory. The only requirement is that if you're mounting the disk locally, your machine has to be able to mount a HFS+ filesystem.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7894",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Script that outputs number of emails in Mail.app inbox I'd like to have a command-line script I can invoke at the Terminal that will output the total number of messages in my "Work" Inbox in mail.app. Usage would look like this:
$ inbox-count
48
What does the Applescript code look like to do something like this?
A: If you want to get the number of messages in said inbox, the short form of the code is
tell application "Mail" to ¬
get the count of messages of mailbox "INBOX" of account "Work"
If you want the global inbox, then you can use get the count of messages of inbox instead. If you just want unread messages, then you can use get the unread count of mailbox "INBOX" of account "Work".
And if you want a more complete script, this will do the trick:
#!/usr/bin/osascript
property defaultAccount : "Work"
property defaultMailbox : "INBOX"
on run args
set justUnread to false
set theAccount to missing value
set theMailbox to missing value
if defaultAccount = missing value then set defaultAccount to "-g"
if defaultMailbox = missing value then set defaultMailbox to "INBOX"
set theCount to the count of args
if theCount > 0 then
if item 1 of args = "-u" then
set justUnread to true
set theCount to theCount - 1
set args to the rest of args
else if item 1 of args = "-ug" or item 1 of args = "-gu" then
set justUnread to true
set item 1 of args to "-g"
else if theCount > 1 and ¬
item 1 of args = "-g" and item 2 of args = "-u" then
set justUnread to true
set theCount to theCount - 1
set args to the rest of args
set item 1 of args to "-g"
end if
end if
tell application "Mail"
if theCount = 0 then
set theAccount to defaultAccount
set theMailbox to defaultMailbox
else if theCount = 1 then
set theAccount to item 1 of args
set theMailbox to defaultMailbox
else if theCount = 2 then
set theAccount to item 1 of args
set theMailbox to item 2 of args
else
error character id 10 ¬
& "Usage: inbox-count [-u] [[account] mailbox]" & character id 10 ¬
& " inbox-count [-u] -g [mailbox]"
end if
set mailboxValue to missing value
if theAccount = "-g" then
if theMailbox = "INBOX" then
set mailboxValue to inbox
else
set mailboxValue to mailbox theMailbox
end if
else
set mailboxValue to mailbox theMailbox of account theAccount
end if
if justUnread then
return the unread count of mailboxValue
else
return the count of messages of mailboxValue
end if
end tell
end run
Most of that is command-line parsing, because that's a pain to get right in AppleScript. But the upshot is that with that script in your path as inbox-count, then the following commands work:
*
*inbox-count to check the number of messages in the default mailbox/account pair.
*inbox-count -g to check the number of messages in the global (combined) inbox.
*inbox-count Play to check the number of messages in the default mailbox for the account "Play".
*inbox-count -g Important to check the number of messages in the global mailbox "Important".
*inbox-count Play Facebook to check the number of messages in the mailbox "Facebook" for the account "Play".
You can also prepend a -u to any of those commands (e.g., inbox-count -u, inbox-count -ug, inbox-count -u Play Facebook) to just get the unread count. To change the default account and mailbox, change the lines property defaultAccount : "Work" and property defaultMailbox : "INBOX". If defaultAccount is missing value or "-g", then the default will be to not use an account; if defaultMailbox is missing value or "INBOX", then the default will be to either use a mailbox named "INBOX" or, if the account is "-g", to use the global inbox.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7897",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
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