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Q: Leopard Mail app keyboard shortcut I've recently switched to Chrome for developing and have thus started using the build-in Developer Tools instead of my previously preferred Firebug workflow. Just today I found a keyboard shortcut (Command-Shift-I) that jumps straight to Inspect Element rather than just opening the Developer Tools like Command-Option-I does.
The problem I'm having is that this shortcut also opens the Mail app, which I do not use. I've looked in the Keyboard Shortcuts preferences and I don't see the aforementioned shortcut anywhere. Anybody know where I can disable this shortcut?
A: Command + Shift + C Will open up the inspector, and let you click an object to Inspect.
https://superuser.com/questions/175529/google-chrome-keyboard-shortcut-to-view-resources-inspect-element
A: hotkeys for Chrome on Mac OS X (from here):
*
*Command ⌘ + Option ⌥ + I to open Developer Tools
*Command ⌘ + Option ⌥ + J to open Developer Tools and bring focus to the Console.
*Command ⌘ + Shift ⇧ + C to toggle Inspect Element mode.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7898",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Synchronize 2 different iPhoto libraries I need a tool/script to synchronize two different iPhoto libraries between two Mac books. By now I want to have common albums with my mother and myself.
Is there anything to do this automatically via Internet or local network?
A: Is it possible that iPhoto Library Manager might be of any use for you in that situation? It’s not free and I don’t have any personal experiences with this software but from what I’ve read it seems to work.
Hope it helps.
Good luck.
A: What do you mean by "Sync".
The general term means when two Libraries (A and B) are compared and files in Library A are copied to Library B, while files in Library B are also copied to Library A so that both Libraries are identical.
This is bi-directional copying and you cannot do this automatically with iPhoto. No Syncing software is capable of parsing the iPhoto Library in this manner. One or both of your Libraries will be damaged if you try this.
You can have uni-directional copying - files in Library A are copied to Library B - this is essentially backing up. Obviously you can also copy from Library B to Library A.
The nearest you can get to syncing is to use iPhoto Library Manager to move files/Albums/Events plus associated metadata between Libraries. This process cannot be automated.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7903",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is there a Terminal command that will force open the DVD tray? Is there a command I can enter in Terminal that will force eject a CD or DVD? One that will always work, equivalent to a "Force Quit" for an app?
I have an intermittent problem getting the DVD in my Mac Pro to eject. Right now the only solution is to do a full restart, but that is obviously not always convenient. I'm hoping there is a workaround to this through the magical power of UNIX...
A: First of all, try the "nice" way using the drive utility
drutil tray eject
If this doesn´t work (probably because the system can´t unmount the volume), the following command will forcefully unmount the Volume with name "untitled" (make sure you´re using the right mountpoint!!):
hdiutil detach -force /Volumes/untitled
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7906",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: How to point an Apple TV to an iTunes Library on a NAS? I have my Apple TV linked to my iTunes library stored on a network storage device by linking to my laptop. I would like to point my Apple TV directly to the iTunes library on the storage device without linking through the laptop. Is there an easy way to do this?
A: (Assuming you have an Apple TV 2…) You can't do it without jailbreaking.
Once you do that, you just need to run Plex or XBMC. I only have experience with the former, but we're very happy with the results.
A: This cannot be done with a standard AppleTV. It may be possible with a jailbroken Apple TV or if you put something like XBMC onto it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7908",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: MBP not booting, but HD seems fine My late 2009 unibody MBP won't boot. I have already booted in single user mode, ran fsck -fy until I get no errors. But when typing 'exit' or rebooting in verbose mode I see, after fsck runs:
Failed to issue COM RESET successfully after 3 attempts. Failing...
disk0s2: no such device
disk0s2: media is not present.
The HD appears to be working, because when booting in single user mode I can run fsck successfully and can browse the HD, listing directories, inspecting files.
I just don't know why the OS can read the disk but reports it as 'not present' when booting.
A: That's either a disk on it's way out or something has been corrupted and the OS is having problems mounting the drive.
Do you have your system disk? If so, you could try booting into is by holding the C key while booting and run Disk Utility, then do a permissions repair and a disk repair if you can.
What fsck command did you enter? fsck -f ? If not then you should try that too.
If you can get into single-user mode then you can run the following command to repair permissions:
sudo diskutil repairPermissions /
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7909",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I use Wireshark on a MacBook Air? I have a new MacBook Air. I would like to run Wireshark on it. But when I choose capture in Wireshark there is no interfaces to capture from. Doesn't Wireshark have support for the MacBook Air WiFi nic?
How can I use Wireshark on a MacBook Air?
A: You need to set the right permissions.
Go into Terminal and enter the following commands:
cd /Library/StartupItems
sudo chown -R root:wheel ChmodBPF
You might need to restart the computer to take effect. You also need to be admin (a sudoer) to perform these commands
I should mention that you need to have copied ChmodBPF from the .dmg file for Wireshark into the /Library/StartupItems folder as described in the 'Read me first' document. ChmodBPF is a file located in the Utilities folder in the .dmg
A: I just run it by doing
sudo open /Applications/Wireshark.app/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7913",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: iPhone 3GS never goes into standby I have noticed a problem with my iPhone 3GS recently. It never goes into standby mode unless I turn on flight mode.
When I have phone mode on it will keep on running something in the background. I haven't been able to locate what it is. I have tried to close down all the apps which are in the quick access list. I have also turned of the Location Service, Notification, Push. I have practically tried to turn of everything, and nothing help except for if I turn on the flight mode.
Anyone know what the problem might be? This problem is seriously causing the battery to burn down.
UPDATE: ok it seems a simple reset to factory setting fixed it and returned it back to normal. Probably some bug in the iphone tick off when I updated to the latest iOS. Thus made iphone never truely go into standby mode.
A: Have you tried Settings > General > Auto Lock?
Now that you've clarified the question:
The reason why I asked if you were in an area of bad coverage/weak signal is if your signal is weak then your battery will drain quicker. However most people I know with iPhones would only get 24 hours out of a full charge anyway. I usually plug it in at night and unplug it when I get up in the morning and generally it will last all day. If you find your battery is draining too quickly for your liking you can do some of the following.
Turn off push notifications
Lower screen brightness
Turn off WiFi
Turn off 3G
Close apps which are running in the background
I'm guessing you haven't had a smartphone before and are used to getting a few days from a full charge. Smartphones use battery much more quickly than traditional cell phones because of larger screens, more powerful processors and generally more usage.
A: I too have this problem. For me, the solution is to turn off and turn on the iPhone, and everything is again ok.
A: This is probably because of your cell connection. The carrier probably tries to keep a connection alive, even while the phone is not in use. This is to ensure that when a call or SMS comes in, the phone will notify you about it. The battery will probably drain faster if the signal is weaker. Another process that may actively be running is the visual voice mail, which probably checks the carrier's servers for voicemail periodically as well.
The only way to stop these three services (phone, sms, voicemail), is to enter airplane mode. This is probably why you see an increase in battery life when airplane mode is on.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7914",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Selecting a minimized window in Expose via the trackpad two finger swipe gesture Normally when you invoke expose, you can use the trackpad's two finger swipe gestures (up, down, left, and right) to highlight a window so that it has a blue border around it. You can then select the window by tapping your third finger down. I really like this method, since it is much quicker than moving the cursor over the window you want and tapping it.
The problem I have noticed is that when you have a minimized window, it will appear below all the other non-minimized windows, separated by a horizontal line. Depending on where the cursor is located (above or below this line) the two finger swipe gesture will only highlight windows within that section (e.g. if you are below the line, you can only highlight minimized windows). Moving the mouse above or below the line will allow you to highlight the corresponding windows.
Is there any way to highlight a window in the opposite section the cursor is located in, without needing to move the cursor?
For example, I want to be able to invoke expose and no matter where my cursor is, I want to be able to select any window I want, using only the two finger swipe gesture.
A: Not possible via the trackpad as far as I can tell. You can use the arrow keys though.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7921",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What iPhone apps are available for sending bulk SMSs? What iPhone apps can I use for sending bulk SMSs?
Hopefully something very simple to get started with....
A: Built-in Group Messaging
On any iPhone with iOS 4 you can enable group messaging which will allow you to message a group and for responses to be sent to the whole group:
*
*Open Settings
*Tap Messages.
*Finally, flip the Group Messaging slider to On.
Other soltions include:
*
*Mass Text Message
*Beluga
*textPlus
A: MassTextMsg app in the app store. The only one I found that is simple, pulls your contacts from you address book, and doesn't force you to sign-up for an account or a different phone number.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7923",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What are the available stylus pens for iPad? Am looking for a good quality stylus primarily to be used for note-taking apps.
A: If you want cheap, there's a youtube video on making your own stylus from the thin metallic-coated wrapper from a powerbar.
I cleaned up and cut out a narrow strip of the stuff, looped it over the tip of a comfortable but dried-out rollerball pen, and it seemed to work as well as the expensive foam tip stylus for which I paid $15.
Added: Here's the Walt MossPuppet video.
A: I like and use the BoxWave stylus.
A: wired.com reviewed the Alupen recently:
The weight is good. An aluminum tube would be too light and cause cramp. Like a fountain pen, the Alupen presses itself down for you. At first look, the pen seems to be too short for comfort, like one of those free pencils at Ikea. In use, it is actually long enough (and I have big hands).
In fact, the only fault I can find is that the metal pen gets icy cold when left on my desk. But then, my desk is marble, and my apartment has no heating, so it could be that.
$20 may be too rich for some, although a good fountain pen is much more, and with a stylus you never need to buy any ink. Available now, in silver and a range of anodized candy-coatings.
A: Griffin Technologies makes a pretty good Stylus as does TenOneDesign, the Pogo Sketch. I have the Griffin stylus and really like using it. The all metal, except for the tip, construction feels good to use and the clip holds the stylus nicely in a pocket or on a case. The Pogo Sketch runs $15 and the Griffin Stylus runs $20. You can pick up the Griffin at most Best Buys.
A: The Hand stylus is another option you can consider. Same size as an average pen, and has a retractable/replaceable nib. What's more, each time the nib is retracted, it's rotated so that you never end up using the same side of the nib twice (in a row).
Though I suppose you could just rotate the entire stylus to get the same effect, it's a thoughtful feature to include.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7924",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: I just upgrade my iPhone to iOS 4.2. Where did all my email go? I just upgraded my iPhone 3G from iOS 3.1.3 to 4.2.1.
*
*Backed everything up (8 hours)
*Downloaded the update (1 hour)
*Installed the update, and restored everything (1 hour)
Everything looks like it worked… EXCEPT that now, all my email is gone.
I have three questions:
*
*How could it restore all my contacts, settings, apps, all email settings, all email boxes, everything… and only skip my email?
*Where did my email go?
*How do I get my email back?
A: Email is not included in the backups according to this apple support page. This probably makes sense as you would normally have a copy on a server whereas with SMS, MMS etc you wouldn't necessarily have a copy on the server. So the answer to where is your email gone is it gets wiped by the backup process.
To get your email back you should be able to just go into your email accounts and click the circular arrow button to refresh or if you're setup for push mail then it should sync automatically. You can take a look in Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars for your mail accounts which should still be there. If they're not syncing try turning the mail off and back on in one of the account setting screens.
A: Unfortunately "back up" does not mean "back up everything".
(You think it would... but it doesn't. Not sure why Apple thinks you want to lose 1000s of emails... but you will. Instantly and without any warning.)
Your only choices are based on 2 things that its already too late for you to change:
If you "kept email on server"... you can have it resent to your phone.
(Unfortunately, you will also get 1000s of email you do NOT want. Ugh.)
If you didn't "keep email on server"... you lost everything.
Kind of odd that "backing up" CAUSES you to have a massive data-loss. But unfortunately, some non-thinking people at Apple do it that way.
Not sure why "back up my email" would have been so impossible for Apple to do. (Or at least give you the choice. I'm pretty sure nearly everyone would say "YES, KEEP MY EMAIL".)
Or, at least the back-up process should say in huge letters: "You are about to lose 100% of your email." Before you start. (No, you have to later read about it buried in the docs somewhere.)
I would imagine if enough people contacted Apple about this "feature" they might do something about it.
A: I had the same problem when i first upgraded from 3.1 to 4.0 -- my emails were gone.
In that case, it was a problem with the download of the .ipsw file from Apple. It seems that it is possible that the downloaded .ipsw file is corrupted (i'm not sure if there is anything that checks the integrity of the file, as happens with .zip for example).
Here's how i fixed it:
*
*Deleted the .ipsw file from my
computer (i think it should be
iPhone1,2_4.2.1_8C148_Restore.ipsw
for the 3G, but it should certainly
be something like that).
*Restored
the phone to my last 3.1.3 backup
*Started the upgrade process again,
with iTunes downloading a fresh copy
of the .ipsw file
Some people recommend downloading the .ipsw file separately, and using that to upgrade, but i'd try the automatic iTunes route first.
After i upgraded a second time, everything was where i expected it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7925",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I turn off IPv4 and just use IPv6 on my Mac? Im really just curious to try IPv6 and see what happens. Is it possible to turn on IPv6 and to turn off IPv4 on my Mac? If it is possible, how can I do it?
A: I assume you're talking about on your Mac since you don't specify. Yes you can do this but in all likelihood, you won't see much other than your internet connection probably won't work. Most ISPs (Internet Service Providers) are not yet ready to handle IPv6 traffic and many won't be right up to IPv6 day on June 8th 2011. Many won't be ready beyond then either. But it won't do any harm to try it out if that's what you're worried about. As an aside, the last batches of IPv4 addresses were distributed recently.
To turn IPv4 off go to System Preferences > Network > Advanced > TCPIP
Then on the drop-down list next to 'Configure IPv4' select the 'Off' Option. Then beneath that, you can set the 'Configure IPv6' drop down menu to whatever you want.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7931",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Mac Pro in a hot country - bad idea? I'm about to buy a second Mac Pro - I have one in London where the temperature is pretty cool most of the time, but want to get another one for Spain where the temperature gets up to 51 degrees celcius outside sometimes.
What it be a foolish thing to try and use a system that presumably would overheat pretty quickly in such a hot country? I've tried air conditioning, but that really doesn't bring the temperature down much when you're in that kind of heat. Plus it's VERY noisy with AC on and I'm a composer so need as much silence as possible for when I'm recording...
Thanks for any pointers - especially from people in hot countries!
A: From Apple's Mac Pro Technical Specifications:
Electrical and operating requirements:
Operating temperature: 50° to 95° F (10° to 35° C)
If your indoor temperature reaches 51˚C, that probably spells bad news for microprocessors. You might be in for a very costly climate control system if you need an acoustically isolated space.
A: It gets 120+°F here during the summer sometimes, which is approximately 50°C. In the shade it'll be approx. 10-20° cooler, and indoors approx. 78°F with A/C.
The A/C doesn't run full time, so if you were to turn off your A/C while recording then turn it back on periodically, you should be able to maintain a reasonable interior temperature, both for you and the computer without it impacting your recording.
Plus, if you have good headphones, the only times you'd need to turn off the A/C is while using a microphone to record voices or acoustic instruments. Electric guitars and basses, amps, keyboards and synths should be going direct or be loud enough that ambient noise from the A/C shouldn't be a problem.
A: I don't know the exact numbers, but the temperature in the shade in a ventilated area is significantly lower than the temperature in the sun. I lived 20 years in Texas where temperatures would often be over 100°F during the summer. Indoor temperatures were usually in the 80's. For other desktops, I have "fixed" overheating by directing a fan directly inside the case, but the Mac Pro has very good ventilation, so opening the case would probably just make it worse.
I doubt that there is any habitable place in the world where the indoor temperatures exceed 95°F, as I don't think humans could survive there.
Also, I have left my MacBook in my car, where temperatures get up to 160°F. It does shut down eventually, but the shutoff temperature is much higher than the officially rated one.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7937",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there a remote desktop solution that will transfer sound output to the client? I'm looking for a secure and hopefully free remote desktop client that will allow me to interact with my Mac OS X 10.6 machine from a 10.5 machine that will also transfer sound to the client.
At a minimum, the software must support a tunnelable connection.
If there is a vetted iPad app out there that will do it, that would work, too!
Any suggestions? I found this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_remote_desktop_software but it's a little heavy and doesn't readily indicate community acceptance/worthiness.
A: RogueAmoeba's AirFoil product may be helpful -- it allows you to send sound from any Mac or Windows machine (or any specific application on that machine) to one or more other Apple devices or Windows PCs on the same LAN.
The product has many features, e.g. a custom video player that ensures the sound your receive locally is in sync with any video you are viewing remotely.
Because AirFoil only streams audio, you can use it in conjunction with whatever remote desktop viewing solution works best for you.
A: I immediately thought of something like soundflower, and their support page points to a project called jackaudio that may be able to send audio over a local network. This is, admittedly, separate intended functionality from VNC or other screensharing utilities. A smart guy I know refers to this as 'a wonderful third-party opportunity'.
iOS/Pad specific stuff would probably only focus on media, like AirView and StreamToMe.
A: This may not fit your needs because I think this requires a person present on both ends, but what I figured out is the simplest free approach I know of: use SoundFlower (a free download from Cycling 74) to pipe your system audio to iChat, and use iChat to send the audio to another computer.
In your System Preferences go to Sound and set SoundFlower as both Input and Output. Note that this will make your system sound not go through your speakers, so to turn that back on also run SoundFlowerbed (the front end that comes with SoundFlower) and set SoundFlower's output to the speakers.
Now launch iChat and go to Preferences. In the Video/Audio preferences you can set what input to use; it'll probably be defaulting to your microphone but you can set that to SoundFlower. Now when you do a voice chat with someone else they will hear your computer's audio.
That takes care of audio. For the video you can use either the screen-sharing functionality built into iChat or use Screen Sharing through System Preferences.
A: Logmein Pro will do this. Not free however. It does use encrypted connections and also allows for file transfer. There's an iPad app as well. I think it exactly suits your needs as you've outlined them here.
A: Both iRAPP and Aqua Connect Terminal Server can do this. See my reply to this related question for more details and links to those two products.
A: VNC and apple screen sharing do not support this, but RDS does. I got nuoRDS working as a server https://www.nuords.com/products/nuords/ and Microsoft Remote Desktop as a client. It only streams certain apps (system, finder, chrome, safari, simple applications) but their support helped me stream more complex apps (for music/audio with CoreAudio).
A: I tried both Soundflower and Airfoil.
I must admit Soundflower was a bit tricky to get going, but is free.
Airfoil works perfectly first time and the price is a reasonable $25 (free trial available).
The Rogue Amoeba products are usually pretty solid.
A: For the ones still reading this question:
Finally found an easy solution for mac, which has a free plan as well!:
https://www.remotepc.com/index.html
(Be sure to first enable "Enable remote sound" on both (streamer and viewer) and set your playback device on the streamer (Settings -> Audio) to the RemotePC output device.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7941",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: A better workflow for screen real estate than spaces? My impression of the general feeling toward spaces is that it's a good idea that doesn't work very well and so most people don't use it. I do use it and I can't imagine having all my windows open on one screen as being easier to navigate.
I'm interested in any better workflows people have in play.
My primary machine is a 15" MBP (no separate monitors), with a space each for mailplane, browsers, omnifocus, evernote, and two clear work spaces for whatever projects I am working on with relevant apps and windows within.
A: Really, you can't beat two physical 1080 monitors and an extra, smaller (~1024x768) one (touchscreen a plus). This works best for headless machines, or machines with an integrated 1080 display. Here are example workflows for different scenarios (Big1=1080 main, Big2=1080 extra, Small1=small extra):
Coder:
Big1: The piece of code you're actively working on. Big2: The list of related files (like in XCode), and the interface design. Small1: Where the app's windows(s) go when you test it, unless it's big. Or music controls.
Web Developer
Big1: Code. Big2: Browser preview. Small1: FTP client or ebooks or list of files or editor utility panels.
Photo Editing/Design
Big1: Editing window (Ps controls, image, etc). Big2: List of photos w/ previews.
Big 3: Original image or music controls or editor panels.
Student (the one I spend the most time in)
Big1: Paper/essay on the left and outline on the right. Big2: Research websites, ebooks, works cited, etc (two open simultaneously works well). Small1: Music controls or assignment sheet/project requirements.
A: A partial solution to overcome the lack of real screen estate: I often use cmd+tab to efficiently switch back and forth applications that I use concurrently. This doesn't require 'thinking', I rarely try to pick another app from the multitasking list other than the last used.
I usually have all apps open and full screen (MBP high-res). Then if I need another app I fall back to Exposé (mapped to a screen corner).
A: You need a bigger screen. Preferably, bigger screen*s*.
The other thing you might try is Divvy, which is a sort of tiling window manager thing for OS X. Sink some time into configuring it, and you'll it back hundreds of times over from time saved organizing stuff.
A: When I first switched to Leopard I tried out spaces, both with and without an extra monitor, but I found that I just couldn't get along with it whatever I tried.
My current solution is to have spaces switched off, with one hot corner for Expose - all windows and another for show desktop. I also use the dock icons to show all the windows for that particular application and Opt-Tab to switch between applications, using all of these I find it is always easy to get the inforamtion I need on screen when I need it.
A: I tend to use 4-6 Spaces. It sounds like you keep one app in each Space; I tend to use each one for one task or type of work. One of my goals is to remove distractions, so I also tend to have a "dumping ground" space for windows I want to go back to later but not be distracted by now. (Articles to read later, etc.)
In OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard I had the spaces laid out in a 2x3 grid so it was easier to remember which was which than with them in a 6x1 line in OS X 10.7 Lion. For recurring tasks, I always use the same space so things are consistently in the same place.
I have keyboard shortcuts set up (in System Preferences > Keyboard > Keyboard Shortcuts) so that Ctrl+1 (or 2,3,4,5,6) takes me to a specific space.
I also run the utility Witch to switch between windows. The Cmd+Tab behavior that's built into OS X switches between applications, which isn't helpful when some apps (like the web browser) have lots of windows open. Witch lets you switch between specific windows. I set it up to only list windows in the current space, because the windows belonging to my current focus task are normally all in the same space, and it keeps the list more manageable.
It helps to customize the "assignment" (or lack thereof) of apps to specific spaces--sometimes I do assign an app to keep the windows together, but mostly I set the assignment to "None" so that I can have windows anywhere and not get whip lashed to another space when I activate that app. (In OS X 10.7 Lion, this is done by right-clicking or control-clicking or two-finger-clicking on the app in the Dock and choosing Options > This Desktop or None. For (Snow)Leopard there are some hacks for this that you'll find if you search here.
A: Check out http://hiltmon.com/blog/2013/01/17/being-productive-with-virtual-desktops/ (Disclaimer: My blog) I run desktops for current work, alternate work, email, social and out-of-the-way apps and automated the switches between them.
A: When I first switched to Leopard I tried out spaces, both with and without an extra monitor, but I found that I just couldn't get along with it whatever I tried.My current solution is to have spaces switched off, with one hot corner for Expose - all windows and another for show desktop. I also use the dock icons to show all the windows for that particular application and Opt-Tab to switch between applications, using all of these I find it is always easy to get the inforamtion I need on screen when I need it.A partial solution to overcome the lack of real screen estate: I often use cmd+tab to efficiently switch back and forth applications that I use concurrently. This doesn't require 'thinking', I rarely try to pick another app from the multitasking list other than the last used.I usually have all apps open and full screen (MBP high-res). Then if I need another app I fall back to Exposé (mapped to a screen corner).The other thing you might try is Divvy, which is a sort of tiling window manager thing for OS X. Sink some time into configuring it, and you'll it back hundreds of times over from time saved organizing stuff.
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How do I draw an arrow in Acorn? Yes, I know Acorn isn't Visio, but still let me ask the question:
How can you draw an arrow with Acorn?
I am talking about the kind of arrows that Skitch or Jing would draw, and that you typically add to a screenshot to take the viewer's attention to part of the image.
A: Acorn doesn't really have native support for complex shapes / arrows like Skitch does - however, you can make an arrow using the Bezier pen tool. You'd select it from the vector tools palette, and click around until you got your arrow. It'll be super annoying to rotate or resize however, and it probably won't look as good.
Adding something like this has been on the todo list for a long long time, so hopefully it'll happen in a future release.
-gus
| {
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Q: Sort trash files by date trashed One of the nice features of the recycle bin in Windows is the ability to sort it by the date an item was deleted. This way if you accidentally delete something, you can easily find it because it will be at the top of the list.
Is there any way to do something similar in Mac OS X's Trash folder?
I see that there is a date modified field, but that is not updated when the file is deleted.
A: This hint from Mac OS X Hints describes how to create a simple Automator Folder Action that performs touch on every file that's trashed.
A: Update for OSX 10.9 Mavericks:
It appears that you can now sort by Date Added in OSX Mavericks. In Trash right click one of the columns and click to check the Date Added column. The click on the column header until the list of files is sorted by Date Added descending.
For OS X 10.7 Lion:
Go to the AppleScript Editor, paste in the following script and save it in /Library/Scripts/Folder Action Scripts:
on adding folder items to this_folder after receiving added_items
repeat with this_item in added_items
do shell script "find " & quoted form of POSIX path of this_item & " -exec touch {} \\;"
end repeat
end adding folder items to
Then…
*
*Right-click on any folder in Finder, go to Services and click Folder Actions Setup.
*Cancel the dialog asking which script to attach.
*Click the checkbox to Enable Folder Actions
*Click the plus sign to choose the Trash.
Press ⌘ cmd + ⇧ shift + G and type in ~/.Trash, click Go or press ↩ return, and then click Open.
*On the right side, click the plus sign to choose the AppleScript that you saved earlier.
Thanks to Graham for the link which pointed me in the right direction.
A: I don't think there is anything exactly like that in Mac OS X.
However, if you accidentally deleted something in the Finder, you can use the "Undo" command to move the file back.
A: Thank you for the above answers. I do not have a right click option on any of my Mac devices, but was able to do this:
With Trash folder open, use CTRL + click on a column head. Then choose Date Added from the drop-down menu. Worked perfectly for me, and I hope it works for you. Should be a default column if you ask me!
| {
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Q: How can I copy files from my Mac to PC via Microsoft Remote Desktop? I installed Microsoft's Remote Desktop and connected to a PC. How can I share files between my Mac and PC?
When I use RDP on Windows, I can simply add a file to the clipboard and paste it inside the RDP window. The same thing doesn't seem to work in the mac version of RDP.
If I try to share one of my Mac's folders with the RDP computer, and then double click that drive in RDP it says:
\\tsclient\Downlo1 is not accessible. You might not have permission to use this network resource. Contact the administrator of this server to find out if you have access permissions.
Access is denied.
A: Clipboard RDC is a free open source cross platform utility that uses clipboard to transfer files much like we transfer text to/from servers in RDP.
Note, requires Java.
Disclaimer: I am the author
A: Another possibility is to use a dropbox (et.al.) account. Just log into the same one from both the Mac and the PC.
A: Good news, copy and paste seems to work now (and for single files even)! But drag and drop does not seem to. At all.
copy and paste:
copy (command + c) in OS X Finder, then open an explorer window in rdp and "ctrl+v" in windows
A: I ran into the same issue but I was able to paste to \\tsclient\OSX\Users\Shared
A: When copying files from Mac to PC using Microsoft Remote Desktop I prefer to share a subfolder, not the entire drive.
Here's how:
*
*In Remote Desktop on your Mac select your PC in the "My Desktops" section.
*Click the "Edit" button (pencil icon).
*In the popup click the "Redirection" button (folder icon; see image below).
*Check the "Enable folder redirection" box.
*Click the "+" button at the bottom of that window and browse to the Mac folder you want to share.
*Connect to the remote PC.
*Look for your shared Mac folder in your PC's "My Computer"
directory (see image below).
Finally, as noted by @Bart and @robbpriestley in the comments below, if you are already connected to the remote computer you need to re-establish your connection in order to see the shared folder.
A: Troubleshooting steps for the inability to copy between a Mac and PC - http://mac2.microsoft.com/help/office/14/en-us/rdc/item/2aae839c-7f91-4738-aea7-9ffb25dbfe2e?category=ff488916-8b5e-4a0c-af96-37d065645612.
I think this answer will likely fix it:
Solution: Before you start the Remote Desktop session, make the Mac disks available to the Windows-based computer.
1.On the RDC menu, click Preferences.
2.Click Drives, and then on the pop-up menu, select the option that you want.
Your disk or folder is now available so that you can access files that are on your Mac from the Windows-based computer.
If you make this change after you connect, the disk or folder that you select becomes available the next time that you connect.
3.On the Start menu, click Computer or My Computer.
The Mac disk or folder that you have made available is listed with all other disks and folders on your Windows-based computer.
Note If you can't see the Start menu, on the View menu, click Full Screen.To return to window mode later, point to the top edge of the screen until the RDC menu bar appears. On the menu bar, click View, and then clear the Full Screen check box.
4.Open the disk or folder that you want to copy from.
5.On the Start menu, click Computer or My Computer.
6.Open the disk or folder that you want to copy to.
You should now have two windows open, one for the location that you want to copy from, and one for the location that you want to copy to.
7.Drag the document that you want to copy to the location that you want.
A: Try copy pasting the whole folder. It is easy and quite flexible at the same time It worked like a charm for me.
*
*Mark the folder in the macOS Finder and press Cmd+C
*In the Windows Explorer in the remote Desktop press Ctrl+V
(Tested with macOS 10.14.6 + Microsoft Remote Desktop 10.3.8 + Windows 10 Home 1903)
A: Your shared folder has a name that is too long. Try calling the share "foo," connecting to terminal services, and then accessing \\tsclient\foo.
A: I will second the Dropbox recommendation. This is the single greatest way to keep many different machines in sync with files there is. If you save a file on your Mac, within seconds it seems, the same file is updated on your PC.
A second approach is to use LogMeIn Pro which can do this but it costs money. In my experience, the speed of LogMeIn is much faster than RDP for remotely controlling another machine.
A: If you right-click on the folder on your Mac and then "Get Info", what permissions do you see?
Make sure your username (the user that initiated the RDC session) has read and write access to the folder. If that doesn't work, give "read & write" to "everyone" (be careful with this one - anyone with access to this folder will be able to modify the contents).
| {
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"question_score": "155"
} |
Q: Recovering a deleted photo on iPhone I have a 32GB iPhone 4 version 4.0.1. I have many photos on my phone, but I have deleted an important photo from my iPhone. How can I get this photo back from my iPhone?
A: Unless you have synced your iPhone and thus have your photo somewhere in your computer, or uploaded it to some service you can't recover it easily.
Most likely you don't have any copies of it and you'll have to find some professional to recover it from the iPhone memory. Maybe, and I say really just maybe, apple care support would be able to do it.
Here's one thing you could try, though: manage to get access to iPhone file system somehow (jailbreak, iPhone Explorer, anything you want) and get some file recovery software. Keep in mind recovering deleted files are complicated and expensive business. You'll only be able to do it this way if you get lucky.
| {
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} |
Q: iTunes artwork doesn't change I change the cover images for the songs in my iTunes library using:
Right Click > Get Info > Artwork > Drag-Drop > OK
and in most cases the artwork updates immediately. On some tracks, though, it doesn't.
I then tried removing the artwork (so nothing should appear in Cover Flow), but the track then keeps the image it had previously.
A: iTunes holds its data in an XML structure. On the surface what may appear to you to be a single Album file consisting of 10 separate tracks may, in fact, be 10 separate tracks, each with a separate link to the Album artwork. How this comes about I am not sure, but I think it's related to how the files were input to iTunes. For example, ripping your own CD may produce a different result from 'acquiring' the same album from - shall we say, a download sharing site.
Normally what I do is
(1) if an album has no artwork, I select all the tracks and drag'n'drop the artwork (from Amazon for example) into the box for Selected Item. Normally this will lock the artwork to EVERY track in the album. If, however, the structure isn't 'correct' the artwork will only be locked to a single track. You can check by clicking on several tracks in the same album.
(2)If the artwork isn't there for all the tracks, you can select all the tracks, then go to File>Get Info and drop the artwork into the Artwork Box. You should then have artwork for every track
(3)Failing all this, as a last resort I drop the artwork in for each track separately.
One of these methods always works for me.
Bit tedious for a few albums, but for more than 1500 albums in my Library, I've only had to go the most tedious route a few times.
I should add that iTunes allows you to include several versions of the artwork for each track. If you replace artwork you may in fact simply be adding another version. Which one gets displayed is determined in the following way. Click a track. Go to File>Get Info>Artwork... here you will see all the versions of the artwork. Delete the ones you don't want. The one you are left with is the one that gets displayed.
I know.. it's confusing..
A: I was having this problem and managed to fix it by changing the tracks to MP3s (they were previously WAVs). You can do this by going into iTunes > Preferences > Import Settings > Import Using > [Select] MP3 Encoder.
Next, right click the tracks and choose > Create MP3 Version. It will create copies of the original files, which will allow you to add artwork.
A: Use an external tool like jaikoz which displays in a synthetic manner (table view) the artworks embedded in files.
Screenshot: http://www.jthink.net/jaikoz/images/osx/osxscreenshot1024x768.jpg
A: Just go to the location of your music and
1) select all files required with ⌘ A
2) right click and select Get Info
3) Unmark the "Read-Only" or "locked" Box
4) Apply and Done
Then you can change the iTunes artwork
A: Some files might be write-protected. Go to the MP3 file, select all of them and untick the read only box.
| {
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Q: How can I know which Wi-Fi protocol my MacBook is using? If I have a router that supports 802.11 N, G, and B, how can I know which one of these my MacBook is currently using to connect to the router?
I'd like to see proof that it's connected using the fastest protocol available, rather than hoping everything is working correctly. For example, the N protocol may not be compatible with the MacBook (if it's an early draft), so it would use G instead. Another situation may arrise if the N protocol is disabled on the router via its settings, which would also cause G to probably be used. Thus, rather than assuming that it's using the fastest protocol, I want actual proof that shows which protocol is being used.
A: Try to Option+click on the wifi icon on the menu bar. You'll see a lot more information about your current wifi connection.
It looks something lijke this:
A: Your Airport card should default to the fastest protocol it is capable of.
| {
"language": "en",
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Q: Editor or notes application with Markdown support? Are there any editors or notes applications out there that support Markdown?
I am often having to make notes or documents where markdown formatting would be ideal, and have gotten into the habit of using markdown on a daily basis.
A: It's not a note taker per se, but Textmate has a Markdown mode that will make it easier to use some of the syntax. Like bold, italic, list, etc.
A: If you want a Mac app that actually looks like a Mac app, supports Markdown out of the box (no plugins or add-ons required), and updates on a regular basis, you want BBEdit. I can't recommend it too highly.
A: Since you are using MacVim, you might want to try the vim-pandoc plugin, which supports highlighting, folding, snippets, and conversion (though that can also be done from the shell, even within vim, using things like markdown2pdf) to other formats.
A: emacs supports markdown if you like it, but I guess if you are not used to it, the learning curve is a bit steep.
A: I use Byword with pleasant results.
A: I use iA Writer and I am very satisfied (iA Writer is available at the Mac AppStore)
A: I used TextMate when I was co-writing a book using Markdown a few years ago. I still write a lot of Markdown, but now my tools of choice are:
*
*Sublime Text
*plus Markdown Editing plugin
*plus OmniMarkupPreview
One nice thing about Markdown is you don't get locked in to a specialized app like Microsoft Word just to write and read it.
What makes for a good toolchain in my experience is a solid text editor as the base, plus good live previewing and some custom coloring of the source. Sublime Text is an excellent text editor (available for Windows and Linux too) and those two (free) plugins trick it out for Markdown nicely.
A: On mac try Marked2 http://marked2app.com/
You can basically use the editor of your choice and it will display the markdown when you save the text. Window can float above. Good if you have enough screen realestate to keep your plain text and markdown preview visible at same time.
Written by Brett Terpstra who also did NVAlt.
A: It's on old question with many answers, but Github now also has their own texteditor which supports Github flavoured markdown (and any other markdown you wish, by means of plugins/settings)!
Atom is highly customisable and by default lightweight, so for markdown I think it's absolutely awesome! https://atom.io
A: I have been impressed with letterspace
It is available both on iOS and OS X, and syncs vi iCloud.
Notes are stored in plaintext for easy retrieval/backup/migration.
A: Disclaimer: I am just a user of this applicaton and am not in any way affilliated with the devloper.
Quiver
I have been using Quiver for a bit and have been quite impressed with this $10.00 USD app. It is available on the Mac App Store
Features
The features are too numerous to mention and I am still discovering many more, however here are a few particularly related to the use of Markdown as requested by the OP. It is important to know that Quiver uses a concept called Cells. Cells can be freely mixed in a single note.
Cells are snippets of text, code, Markdown or LaTeX that you can freely mix. You can even set different languages for different code cells inside the same note.
Markdown
Markdown cells support standard Markdown syntax as well as GitHub Flavored Markdown (GFM).
(I like using it for editing AskDifferent answers, but StackExchange has a few Markdown limitaions easily coped with in Quiver.)
Basics
Headers
# H1
## H2
…
###### H6
Horizontal Rule
---
Italic, bold, strike-through, inline code
*italic* _italic_ ~~Strike~~
`inline code`
Lists
1. First ordered list item
2. Another item
* Unordered sub-list.
1. Actual numbers don't matter, just that it's a number
1. Ordered sub-list
4. And another item.
Screenshots
Edit | Preview
Edit
Preview
Switch views
Export Options etc.
Currently five cell types are supported:
*
*A "Text Cell" lets you edit rich-text in-place. It supports images and links too.
*A "Code Cell" packs the awesome ACE code editor, with syntax highlighting support for 120+ languages, 20+ themes, automatic indent and outdent, code completion, and much more.
*A "Markdown Cell" lets you write in Markdown with inline formatting and custom CSS options.
*A "LaTeX Cell” uses MathJax to typeset mathematical equations in your notes.
*A “Diagram Cell” lets you create sequence diagrams and flowcharts from text.
Themes and customization
Customize themes or use built in ones. The application can be further tweaked with CSS.
A: Textmate has a markdown bundle which includes multimarkdown.
The bundle allows you to convert to PDF, HTML or to view the generated output on screen.
There are also tab-complete commands and a bunch of shortcuts.
A: Let's add another:
*
*Sublime Text 2
A: Mashable has a quite comprehensive list: http://mashable.com/2013/06/24/markdown-tools/. It is from June 2013, but if you combine it with something more recent like http://codegeekz.com/markdown-editors-and-tools/, you might find most of the general purpose markdown editors for the Mac.
A: Go Edit for iOS allows you to write text in markdown or rich text (HTML) and makes it easy for you to switch between the two. You can also embed photos into markdown documents from your photo library without needing to upload them into the web beforehand.
A: nvALT does the trick. I prefer the plain Notational Velocity myself, but Markdown fans seem to really like the nvALT fork.
A: Mou
Mou is my favourite Markdown editor for editing GitHub files and other documentation. Its live preview is priceless for editing in this way, especially using the specifically-designed GitHub theme that mimics the end result as shown on GitHub's preview and wiki pages.
The app also lets you export to HTML along with the CSS so that you can upload the documentation outside of GitHub but retain the style.
The app is one of a very few apps that even supports tables not in the core Markdown:
Mou can be launched from the command line with a file using the standard OS X app launching method:
open -a Mou text.md
A: The original Markdown script by Gruber is part of BBEdit. BBEdit also has a life preview of Markdown documents.
If you want more than plain old Markdown, the best application is Multimarkdown composer by Fletcher Peny (the author of MultiMarkdown), or Marked 2 by Brett Terpstra (already mentioned above).
A: I use Ulysses on OS X and iOS. It syncs via iCloud and can export to ePub, PDF, text bundle, docx and plain text.
http://www.ulyssesapp.com
| {
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} |
Q: What file systems can Snow Leopard read? I just got a MacBook Pro for my parents, and I need to get their files from a Linux desktop machine that most likely has either reiserfs or ext3 file systems.
I would like to know if Snow Leopard can read these files if I put the HDD in an external HDD case??
Thanks
A: It might be easier to connect the machines on a network and use rsync, nfs or ftp to copy data, no extra software would be needed.
If you want to do this you will need MacFuse which allows OS X to read other file systems. A tutorial for ext3 is on this blog.
A: If you are planning on doing this a lot, there are commecial packages too:
http://www.paragon-software.com/home/extfs-mac/
There is a free alternatives also though through MacFuse/FUSE:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/fuse-ext2/files/
A: Mac OS X can read (but not necessarily write):
*
*HFS+ (Mac OS X default format, in plain, journaled, case-sensitive, or journaled/case-sensitive varieties)
*NTFS (but not write, by default)
*FAT (32 and 64 as seen in Christian Correa's comment)
I would expect it can read but I haven't tested it:
*
*HFS (the older Mac OS file system [Hierarchical File System])
*UFS (Unix File System; older versions of OS X could format and be installed on UFS partitions)
I know for a fact that OS X will not read:
*
*ReiserFS
*ext* (any of the various versions of the ext Linux file system)
*just about anything else
Check out the Mac OS X column at the incredibly complete Wikipedia article comparing file systems.
A: Disk Utility can format a new hard drive using the following formats:
*
*Mac OS X format
*Mac OS X format (Journaled)
*FAT32 (MS-DOS)
*FAT64, also known as exFAT
I believe those would be the same file systems that the operating system can read.
| {
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Q: How can I crop a video? How does one remove a black border around a video. The input video has the size 720x576 and has the output video should be 720x480. I need to crop away 96 pixels from top and bottom.
I have gazed through this list of video tools for Mac, but I'm unsure which tools can do this. I have tried MPEG Streamclip and avidemux2, but they doesn't seem capable of it.
Preferable a free tool.
A: If you are using MacBook or iMac the best app is iMovie.
*
*Create new project in iMovie
*Import video to iMovie and then drag and drop it in your new project
*Select you video in project and use crop button in preview window
*Export your new video and use it
If it is a large file that you need a small part of then first trim the video by pressing command+t when the file is opened in quicktime. Import time to iMovie will decrease by a lot
A: You can do this on the command line using ffmpeg and the crop filter. Handbrake is a great tool, however it uses the same ffmpeg libraries that you can use directly from the command line.
The basic command is as follows:
% ffmpeg -i input_filename -filter:v "crop=w:h:x:y" output_filename
*
*w = width of the output video
*h = height of the output video
*x:y = coordinate of the top left corner of the crop box (0,0 is top left)
Your specific example, since you want to remove just the top and bottom, you will crop using the center point and just specify the size of the crop box:
% ffmpeg -i input_filename -filter:v "crop=720:480" output_filename
Using some examples from the ffmpeg page
Crop area 100x100px starting at coordinate (12,34)
% ffmpeg -i input_filename -filter:v "crop=100:100:12:34" output_filename
Same as above, but using the named options
% ffmpeg -i input_filename -filter:v "crop=w=100:h=100:x=12:y=34" output_filename
Crop an area 100x100px from the center point
% ffmpeg -i input_filename -filter:v "crop=100:100" output_filename
A: It's kind of hacky, and probably not the best answer but works if you don't want to download any other tools and just use quicktime, and since I love hacks...
*
*Open video in Quicktime.
*Select new screen recording from file menu.
*Setup audio source to be built in input from the arrow next to the record button.
*After pressing the record button, Select the area you want to record (instead of doing full screen) in the original video.
*Start the recording.
*Start the original movie playback.
*When original movie finishes stop the recording by clicking the Stop button in the menu bar.
A: Handbrake is the way to go here, as mentioned by roguesys and canary_in_the_data_mine in the accepted answer.
I am using Catalina. MPEG Streamclip does not support this version of OSX, and iMovie's cropping tool is married to the 16:9 aspect ratio.
As soon as you open your clip, if it has black bars (which was my case), handbrake will crop them automatically and it will show you in its summary how the converted video will look like.
You can tweak out things in the other tabs (dimensions where you can do a fine tune of the cropping, video for the compression codec and other things, filters, audio, etc).
Once you're satisfied with the settings in the summary, go to the bottom of the App window, choose the folder where you will save the video, and press the green Start button at the top.
A: I've used all built-in video editors on mac. I found that
*
*Quicktime cannot crop videos unless you upgrade it to Quicktime Pro. But it needs the assistance of a Photoshop mask. Moreover, Apple stopped selling Quicktime Pro since 2017.
*iMovie can crop videos but at a fixed aspect ratio of 16:9.
*The Photos app on Mac, which used to be ignored, now is upgraded to a decent video editor. It is able to crop the video at a free form. But note that, it is only available on Big Sur.
A: In my Macbook Pro (High Sierra), I did:
*
*Open "iMovie" application
*Click on "Create New"
*Choose "Movie"
*Click on "Import Media"
*Choose my video and click on "Import selected"
*Right click on video preview, click "Select entire clip"
*On the right, where the tool menu is shown, click the third icon
(looks like a rectangle, with two diagonal 'Y's on its upper left
and bottom right corners:
*Click on "Crop" A dashed rectangle appears, resize it select the
area you are interested in.
*When you are done, click on the checkmark above the upper right
corner of the cropped video.
*On the upper left corner of the iMovie application, click the "<
Projects" button.
*A pop up will ask you for the name of the new video.
*Type the name and click OK.
*Now you'll be redirected to the Projects page.
*There you can see your cropped video, and when you hover your mouse cursor, the three-dotted circled icon will appear next to its name - click that icon.
*Click on "Share Project" -> "File".
*Click "Next..."
*You will be prompted to select a name for the cropped video and a
location to save (e.g. Desktop).
*Click "Save".
*Ready, the video is now located where you chose (e.g. Desktop).
PS: If you want to trim the video, use QuickTime Player application.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "39"
} |
Q: Where in the iPhone file system is iPhone's "Photo Library" found? In the file system on the iPhone, Photos are located under /User/Media/DCIM/*
But where should I found Images of "Photo Library" ?
A: In case you are still wondering where it is located inside your iPhone, as I just answered elsewhere, this is the place: /private/var/mobile/Media/Photos/ all files inside that folder are relevant. The actual photo data are stored on the Thumbs encoded as ithmb. You'll need some software to decode them.
/var/mobile/Media/PhotoData/Sync/ is the correct path to "Photo Library"
A: User/Yourusername/Pictures/iPhoto Library
Control+ Click on iPhoto Library to expose the dialog box that includes Show Package Contents
Click this
Click Masters
That's where the images are
BEWARE.. don't manually move or delete these files. They are part of an XML database structure which you will screw up if you fiddle with individual files. This is the reason Apple keeps them 'hidden'
A: photos are usually stored in 2 folders in iPhone 4 Photos Albums:
(1) Camerca Roll (2) Photo Library
I use "iPhone Explorer" application (on my Mac, not sure if there's a version for Windows), and get to my "Photo Library" photos by going into:
Root/User/Media/Photos/Thumbs
In above directory, each picture is stored in a separate folder (at least this is so on my iPhone 4).
A: ok so I also found my Photo Library (not cameral roll) in /private/var/mobile/Media/PhotoData/Sync/100SYNCD if anyone is still having troubles!
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Why won't iTunes stream 320 kbps audio across a network? My iTunes library, that's shared on our network, has some songs that have a bit rate of 320 kbps. These songs will not play when I try to play them from a client computer - accessing them through the Shared library.
Why won't they play? Is there a work around besides downgrading the bit rate?
A: Do you know for sure it is the 320 kbps that is keeping the songs from being played? Can you play songs with a lower bitrate successfully?
There are three reasons I can think of that would make a song not play in Shared Library:
*
*You have reached the 5-computer limit
on Shared Library. Only when the
number of concurrent connections gets
back to less than 5 you will be able
to connect and play the songs.
*The remote iTunes has not been
authorized for that Apple ID and the
song you are trying to play has DRM
protection (i.e., it is an Audible
book or it was purchased way back
when Apple only sold DRM-protected
songs).
*The song is listed on the Shared
Library (and on the "server" iTunes
Library) but it is pointing to a file
that does not exist on the computer's
file system or is out of reach.
I hope this gives you additional ideas to look into.
A: On the clients, try to switch the 'Streaming buffer size' (Preferences > Advanced) to 'Large', it may help if it's a bandwidth problem.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7980",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How to obtain latest slipstreamed installation media for OS X? I'm looking for a way to obtain an updated installation media for OS X 10.6.x, currently 10.6.6
I am looking for a similar solution to the Windows slipstreamed installation media and preferably a solution to put the kit on a USB drive in order to improve the installation speed.
Is this possible, and if it is how it is possible to get such a media?
A: Same Answer as given here:
Basically you want to use the System Image Utility to create a bootable .dmg you can than put on a USB drive.
Have a look at this post, it covers this process in detail (you probably can leave out some steps); this should get you started.
A: There is no official method to 'slipstream' updates into OS X installation media.
To install OS X from a USB drive you can make an image of your OS X DVD and then restore that image to your USB drive and boot from it.
You could then download and put on that drive the Combo update:
http://support.apple.com/kb/dl1349
Yes, you have to run them separately, but then you don't have to wait for slower i/o and download times.
A: If your machines are all desktops the using MacOS Server and Netboot might be what you want.
Otherwise if your machines are all similar you might be able to get away with
1) Disc Copy the original to the USB drive
2) Boot new machine off USB
3) Disk copy from USB.
but I would probably use @zevlag's solution
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7982",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Change Terminal.app's Default Shell to BASH How can I change Terminal.app's default shell to BASH?
For some reason, my friend's Mac (10.6.6) defaults to using TCSH instead of BASH. The obvious remedy is to choose /bin/bash as the command to open shells with (as below), but then it fails to load .bashrc and .bash_profile (even if I give a --source or --rcfile parameter).
How can I switch it to use bash the right way?
A: By using chsh from Terminal. It changes default shell for user. Alternatively you may setup Terminal to use /bin/bash -l ... this will cause BASH to behave as login shell, i.e. it will read .bash_profile.
A: Open System Preferences, select user and right click on its name.
"Advanced options..." will appear. Change shell there.
If you're die hard Apple user, you probably will have to enable right click first.
Depending on your computer model, it can be done under Trackpad or Mouse Preferences.
A: As of Mac OS X Lion 10.7, Terminal will create login shells even if you choose a custom shell in Startup preferences. So your initial problem should no longer be an issue on Lion. (Although I recommend setting the shell via System Preferences to ensure it's set for the user account and not just for the Terminal application.)
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How can I password protect the web.me.com/USER? Mobile me users have web.me.com/USER to use it as a HTML server. Is there a way to password protect some/all of the contents?
A: It appears that .htaccess files aren't supported, so someone came up with a javascript solution:
http://leonstafford.com/wp/encrypt-web-pages-on-mobileme.html
Here's some information on how it was possible to password protect the public folder in the mac.com implementation me.com, it may be relevant.
http://homepage.mac.com/rfwilmut/notes/faq.html#3_Public_Folder
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7988",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What's a free/lightweight way to email a message to force an iPhone alert? At my job, we get specific emails that need to be responded to right away.
Currently, I filter and forward those emails to my SMS gateway address provided by AT&T (1234567890@txt.att.net). The problem is that they result in 16 text messages because there are 4 emails and each one results in 4 text messages.
Can anyone recommend a service or app that provides an email address that will result in an iPhone popup?
A: I'm not sure about Popups, but your iPhone can get emails pushed through gmail. Would that help?
Also, whatever forwards to SMS could trim the email so that each only takes 1 SMS to deliver.
A: I don't know that you'll find a free one, because it costs money to maintain a server, the server in which you need to use with some software set up to communicate with the Apple Push Notification Service ("APNS").
We use Prowl (link goes to homepage, here is an iTunes App Store Link) at work in order to send Monitoring (NAGIOS) notifications to our phones. It's a $3 app, but it's also infinitely flexible.
It gives you an e-mail address you can use to just shoot notifications too, but it also offers an API you can use to do a lot of special things with.
More details if requested after you check out Zac's site. (Zac is the developer/maintainer/operator of Prowl app and it's associated server backend.)
A: My original intent was to enable push support for my mail server and the following recommendation works pretty well for dozens of mails per hour with usually brilliant, rarely not-so-jolly response times.
There are a couple of choices in the App Store. The first I found bearable is Boxcar. It is an app coupled with a service that provides you access to Apple Push Notification Service in a form of a unique e-mail address which you can forward mail to.
It has a variety of notifications, but the best idea is to set it to merely display badges with mail information and play a sound.
The downside is that you have to pipe your mail through a third party but you have a choice to filter forwarded mail on your own mail server, which you already do.
I find it blazing fast most of the time (95%) with response times measured in sub-4 seconds, but there are cases (5%) where the delivery lag jitters highly. I have seen messages appear on the desktop computer 15 minutes before the push arrived.
Still, it's easy to configure and it is actually convenient.
A: You can send whatever notification using phone pipe:
https://github.com/drewcrawford/Phone-Pipe
You will need the free Notifo app for this, check the itunes store.
A: Google Voice is pretty good for this kind of stuff, and it's free.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7995",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Microphone to use with OS X's Speech features I'm currently using the built-in microphone on my early 2007 MacBook Pro to access the Speech features. I'd like to use an actual microphone that I can clip to my shirt or something (since Speech seems to work better when I'm closer to the mic). What do you use for a mic? Can I just use the mic on the default iPhone headphones?
A: I am not sure the iPhone headphones with the built-in microphone will work on older MacBooks, since I believe they do require a headphone jack capable of sending the microphone input. Headphone jacks on MacBooks shipped after the iPhone was introduced all have that capability.
As fas as microphone recommendations, the following two seem to be regarded as very good by different sources I trust, such as the Equipment Guide that 5by5's Dan Benjamin writes every year:
*
*For beginners: Plantronics .Audio 655 USB Multimedia Headset
*For pros: Heil PR40 Dynamic Microphone
Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7996",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I replace the hard drive in my circa 2008 iMac? My circa 2008 iMac hung up today and wouldn't reboot -- it just hung on boot with the Apple logo and the spinner. I booted the Snow Leopard DVD and ran Disk Utility on the drive. It told me the drive needed repairing but during the repair cycle stopped, and said the drive couldn't be repaired. That I should format it and restore from a backup.
So I did. Or, am doing. The restore from my TimeMachine drive is about 75% done now.
Even if this is successful, I'm nervous. I'm not sure if that drive failure was some sort of uncorrectable filesystem corruption that occured because when the iMac was hung up I hard stopped it with the power button, or if the drive is starting to fail.
I'd like to replace the drive in it just to be on the safe side. Is this hard to do? I couldn't find anything about this procedure on Apple's support web site. If I replace it is there a brand of drive that I should buy or is the OS accepting of anything I put in there? Is it a 2.5" or a 3.5" SATA drive in there?
A: If you're talking about an aluminum iMac, getting to the HDD involves removing the built in display monitor to be able to get behind it. YouTube seems to have several video walk-throughs that show the process (including this one; the link is to the first part). Additionally, a quick search turned up a site with written, step by step instructions. The process seems too complex to provide here.
If you're comfortable with this level of complexity in hardware repair, then the video or text walk throughs should help you. I suspect, all things considered, if you're not confident enough to perform the upgrade yourself just by looking at videos of others who have done it, then this probably falls into the class of "take your iMac to your local Mac service centre and get them to do it": yes, it will cost you money, but they can also guarantee their workmanship...
A: Yes, this is hard to do. Go to iFixit.com and look up the repair guide for your particular version of the iMac to see just how difficult.
You can use any 3.5" SATA drive in the iMac. Choose a replacement drive based on your criteria such as capacity, price, manufacturer's reputation, etc.
The drive should report its S.M.A.R.T. status in the Disk Utility application. If this status is good, I wouldn't bother replacing the drive.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/7997",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iMac refuses to boot, Disk Utility always says there are drive errors it can't repair -- what to do? This is a follow on to the question I asked about replacing the hard drive in my iMac. The restore from TimeMachine finished and the machine still won't boot. Just the white screen, Apple logo and spinner. I booted to the Snow Leopard DVD and ran Disk Utility on it again -- and again Disk Utility told me:
Verify and Repair volume "Main"
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Checking extents overflow file.
Checking catalog file.
Invalid node structure
The volume Main could not be verified completely.
Volume repair complete.
Updating boot support partitions for the volume as required.
Error: Disk Utility can't repair this disk. Back up as many of your files as possible, reformat the disk, and restore your backed-up files.
Is this drive dead? Seems odd I could restore to it if it's dead. Should I try an older backup from TimeMachine? Could the most recent backup be restoring something so corrupt to the disk that it's un-bootable after the restore?
Edit: SMART status for the drive was fine. No problems reported.
Edit: I restored from a TM backup that wasn't the latest. A few hours before that. It still won't boot, but I get a little further in the Repair Disk function now. Mean anything to anyone?
Verify and Repair volume "Main"
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Checking extents overflow file.
Checking catalog file.
Invalid sibling link
Rebuilding catalog B-tree.
Invalid key length
The volume Main could not be verified completely.
Volume repair complete.
Updating boot support partitions for the volume as required.
Error: Disk Utility can't repair this disk. Back up as many of your files as possible, reformat the disk, and restore your backed-up files.
Update: it was an issue with my primary drive. It had something going on with that was preventing it from being boot-able. Replacing the drive (more or less) fixed the problem.
A: Having solved the problem I can answer my own question.
It was a problem with the iMac's internal hard drive. Scanning the drive after the fact revealed a whole host of bad sector errors. Not sure why I couldn't pick this stuff up when I was trying to restore to it.
In any case, even with a new drive installed in the machine I couldn't get the Utilities -> Restore method of restoring the machine from my TimeMachine drive to work. It did the same thing with a new drive: it's just hang forever on boot, no chime, just Apple logo and a spinner for hours and hours.
The solution was to do a clean OS X install from the OS X DVD (instead of using the Utilities -> Restore menu option to restore the machine). Then, on first boot, when you first log in to OS X it'll ask you if you want to restore this machine from a TimeMachine drive. I said "Yes" to this option, it found my TimeMachine drive, I selected all the available types of things to restore (System Settings, User Data, Applications and Other) and let it do its thing for a few hours.
And this time it worked. Reboots were fine. My data is there and intact. All is well.
A: It sounds like this is a file system issue, rather than a drive issue, and you're right to consider restoring to an older backup. Unfortunately it's going to be hit-and-miss for a while, until you find a backup that works.
Once you're able to restore to a working version, I would do as DiskUtility says and backup your files and reformat the drive/reinstall the operating system, then make a brand new Time Machine backup from that.
Likely, the drive is fine, it's only something to do with a corrupt backup.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What is the iPad's screen refresh rate? Is it 60 Hz like the phones/touches?
A: 60Hz.
Apple DTS has not changed any of their answers about 60Hz refresh rates with respect to any device model, and no one has reported any higher rate.
Update: In 2017, Apple introduced new iPad Pro devices capable of higher display refresh rates than 60 Hz.
A: Apple introduced 2nd generation of iPad Pro models in June 2017 which feature ProMotion display technology, which delivers refresh rates of upto 120Hz. ProMotion also improves display quality and reduces power consumption by automatically adjusting the display refresh rate to match the movement of the content.
It comes in two variants with 10.5" and 12.9" screen sizes.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8006",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Update/backup iPod via iTunes on virtual Windows XP? All the programs I use on my Mac these days are either in a Linux VM (in Virtualbox), or open-source apps which are also available on Linux. With one exception: iTunes, which I only use to feed my iPod Touch (4gen).
I'm tempted to switch over to Linux entirely, but I don't want to completely lose the ability to update/backup my iPod, and I don't want to deal with the hassle of dual-booting. (I can buy apps on my iPod itself, but apparently I can't download MP3s or subscribe to podcasts without using iTunes on a computer.)
I've heard that you can't run (non-server) Mac OS X in a virtual machine, even on Apple hardware. I do, however, have an old Windows XP license.
Is it possible to run iTunes 10, including iPod Touch (4gen) syncing, in a virtualized Windows XP on a Linux host? I've the most experience with Virtualbox (at work and home), but I'd be willing to entertain the possibility of switching to another VM.
I found this article that says it's possible, but is rather old: it only speaks of the iPod Touch 1gen. This other article has no date but mentions iTunes 8 (which Wikipedia says was shipped with the iPod Touch 2gen).
It doesn't need to be terribly convenient. If CD ripping doesn't work, for example, I'm happy to rip elsewhere and copy the files to Windows for iTunes. I really just want the ability to copy data onto my iPod, including iOS updates, and do backups.
Has anyone tried this more recently? Is it still possible with iTunes 10 / iPod Touch 4gen?
A:
Is this possible? Legal? If so, what are the drawbacks and tricks
As of OS X Lion 10.7, the EULA permits you to use the OS in two virtual machines, on Apple hardware:
(iii) to install, use and run up to two (2) additional copies or instances of the Apple Software within
virtual operating system environments on each Mac Computer you own or control that is already
running the Apple Software.
This was first allowed with OS X Server 10.5, and both VMWare Fusion and Parallels Desktop allow you to easily setup an OS X guest machine, as does VirtualBox
An OS X guest on non-Apple hardware is possible with some fiddling, but is in violation of the software's EULA (i.e doing so is of questionable legality..)
iTunes, running in a VM, will be able to see the iPod/iPhone/iPad. As long as the USB can be connected to the VM. So this depends on which setup you are using. The above should explain the legalities of the OS X and VMs.
You can install Linux on Apple hardware, then run a VM of OS X (10.7 and above) on the machine to be able to use iTunes to keep the library in sync and updated, etc., and it won't cause you any issues.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8014",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Safari slowdown issues Safari is quite slow when I open new tabs. I get a busy cursor, and I cannot interact with other tabs.
Is there any way to make it faster?
I have a 2010 MacBook Pro, MacOS 10.6.6, Safari 5.0.3.
A: Install clicktoflash or some other flash blocking thing.
Also disable java and other plugins. These are particularly useful for Safari 4.
A: Here are some good tips on reviews.cnet.com on speeding up Safari. Some of the tips are detailed below:
*
*Try dragging the folder Icons -- where these icons are cached -- within the ~/Library/Safari folder to the trash and restarting Safari.
*Try deleting ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.Safari.plist if you are experiencing slow launches, but note that you will lose some easily recoverable settings, such as whether or not tabbed browsing is enabled.
*A blanket approach to deleting many of the potentially problem-causing items is the Reset Safari... command, available under the Safari menu in Safari. Note, however, that this command also deletes your browser history, personal data -- such as stored login passwords, search entries, cookies and more -- that you may not want to clear. Still, it's a good initial cleansing step. On recent versions of Safari you can select the kinds of data you want to delete/keep.
*Try temporarily disabling plugins to see if that's a potential cause. Go to the Safari menu within Safari, and select Preferences. Click on the Security tab and deselect 'Enable plug-ins'. Restart Safari and see if the slowness has disappeared. If it has then the problem is likely to be an errant plugin.
A: First thing to try is to clear the cache and history, and restart Safari (and even your MacBook).
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: HFS+ case-sensitive or case-insensitive -- which type to use for the primary drive partition? What reasons are there for choosing the case-insensitive version of HFS+ when formatting the primary drive partition? Would case-sensitive not always be the best choice?
A: One or other can break applications, case-insensitive is the default however. If you've been using case-insensitive without issues then there are no guarantees that a transition to case-sensitive will go well. Here's one example from the apple support pages:
...don’t assume your
third-party software solutions work
correctly with case sensitivity.
Important: Case-sensitive names do
not ignore Unicode ignorable
characters. This means that a single
directory can have several names that
are considered equivalent using
Unicode comparison rules, but they are
considered distinct on a
case-sensitive HFSX volume.
A: There is a good reason to choose a case sensitive file system.
If you are concerned by the quality and the security of the applications you run you might be interested by any early mechanism which may discriminate badly programmed applications.
An application which at one time create a file named conf and later
try to open the same file with the name CONF is at
least poorly written. This is just plain bad programming practice.
This kind of application is filled with vulnerabilities with the same
average probability all over its code length. This is a dangerous application.
This dangerous application will most probably crash on a case sensitive file system.
This dangerous application will not crash on a case insensitive file system.
(Some applications will crash on both,
but we are not highly motivated to sort out these ones.)
Hence a case sensitive file system may be considered as a good tool to early detect and block poorly programmed applications.
On the other hand, this level of programming quality control is far from sufficient to ensure that you don't have any other vulnerability.
A: There are some significant applications that will not work correctly with case sensitive. And there's really no reason to do it. I'm assuming since you're asking that you really don't have a reason to do it. You're definitely better off not doing it unless you have a specific reason, and don't care that many applications don't work right with it.
A: Use the default (case-insensitive) unless you both a) know what you're doing and b) you absolutely have to. There are several programs (Norton Antivirus comes to mind) that won't work properly on a case-sensitive file system.
HFS is, by default, case-insensitive but case-preserving (i.e. it doesn't care what you type for comparison purposes, but it will remember what you type).
A: One good reason to use case sensitive file system is using git repositories. Syncing them to the repo causes problems again and again, if not using case.
But I suggest adding another partition using HFS+ formatted case sensitive for such an application and link the directories you need to that partition. My system partition is still case insensitive not because I kwow why but just because I'm afraid.
A: Adobe Creative Cloud apps will not run on a case sensitive system, and can be a major problem
A: Adobe programs are infamous for not working on case-sensitive filesystems. Adobe says:
You cannot install Adobe products on a volume that uses a case-sensitive file system, such as HSFX (HFS+) or UFS. This limitation applies to both the startup drive as well as the drive onto which the software is installed.
https://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/error-case-sensitive-drives-supported.html
Steam cannot be installed on case-sensitive filesystems either.
Steam does not currently support case sensitive filesystems or partitions.
https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=8601-RYPX-5789
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "41"
} |
Q: What do these dashed-box symbols mean on Japanese keyboard? What do these dashed boxes mean and how to use them?
A:
Your image seems to have disappeared so I added one myself.
The dashed boxes represent the space that a normal character would occupy so you can see how the characters you're typing will be positioned. On the middle row shown, the first key puts a mark in the lower-left position, the second key has the same position, the third shows that the dot will be in the middle of the character space and the last one shows the line will be beneath the normal character space, almost like an underscore
A: The Japanese characters on the depicted white keys are hiragana, these are what is used during direct input. So, the K key will produce の. The characters are arranged slightly differently on my keys; see my image. Using shift (or caps) as a modifier inputs the character in the right position. For instance, Shift < produces 、 and Shift > produces 。. Also, using option as a modifier will input dotted boxed characters in the upper position (only ＿ exist for me).
If you are using Mac OS X 10.6, you should have an IME menu on your menubar. In this OS X Japanese writing tutorial reference the steps to reach the utilitiy in Fig. 4 Kotoeri to change Input style to Kana typing.
I hope this helps.
Cheers!
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
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} |
Q: OS X Automator “Take Screenshot” Issue I need to automate a screenshot task, so I thought why not use automator?
I found the "Take Screenshot" Action and started to play with it. The problem is is that is sets the file name and when the workflow is ran again it overwrites the prior screenshot. I tried selecting this and renaming it but it won't work.
Essentially what I want is the normal function of Command + Shift + 3 where it will date-stamp it or something, anything but overwrite!! Any ideas?
I've been trying to set "Save To" as a variable. But I can't set the path as well as the file name var like current time.
A: Try it like this:
This one has a loop built into it, make sure you set 'Timed' to 1 second and the 'Format' of the 'Add Date or Time' step to Hour Minute Second
A: I tried like this and it worked fine
A: Try to make another workflow of the rename action and then run that workflow in the first workflow which makes the screenshots.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Not receiving anything in Mail.app inbox I have a Mac Pro, and I use Mail.app. Everything used to work fine with my POP account.
However, last week my incoming mail showed that it was being downloaded to my inbox, but it never showed up. I have rebuilt my inbox, and also re-initiated, and configured my POP account, but the same problem remains.
I have also an IMAP account, which worked fine before and since this occurrence.
Any clue or hints on what is going on?
A: It's possible that your mailbox quota may have been exceeded, thus making it so you don't receive any new messages. If that's not the case, then I would completely remove the account from Mail or explore around ~/Library/Mail and edit/remove some files if necessary.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8025",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Comparison of Microsoft Word to Apple Pages I'm thinking about getting a word processor for my Mac. The two most popular options are probably Microsoft's Word or Apple's Pages. Before I decide to buy one I need to make sure that it will have all of the features I need. Is there feature matrix which compares Word to Pages and shows which features each application supports?
I'd like to see an exhaustive list of all the features each one supports, or something very close to it. Ideally it should be in table format so that it's very easy to read.
A: I was recently in a similar position because I needed something for school, and I went with Pages, pretty much on price alone. A 5-license family pack of Pages costs a whole third less than the Home & Student version of Word, so I can put Pages on both home and work laptops and still have extra for my wife's and mum-in-law's Macs.
The article linked in @mybrainishuge's response is pretty much spot on in comparing the two. Each application does the same thing just in different ways. Some good, some not so much, but then all word processor apps have their quirks. Since my needs are humble (I have easy access to InDesign for any heavy page layouts) I figured how bad could Pages be compared to the bloat and "kludginess" that is Word these days; fifteen years I've been working with Office and I can safely say I genuinely don't like Microsoft products, so Pages it was.
YMMV, so I suggest working with the demos for each (I know Pages has a demo, but I'm not sure about Word as the companies I work for always just gave it to me) and see which one meets your needs.
A: Wikipedia is the best source for comparison tables:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_word_processors
If you have questions about features not on the table, edit your question.
A: If you're familiar with Microsoft Word, then buy Word. If you don't want to spend as much, get Pages. Feature-wise, they're pretty close (if not necessarily identical in how they do things).
I have both but prefer Word for its compatibility.
A: I've provided a link below that gives a quick comparison, but nothing in depth. A lot comes down to preferences and needs.
http://www.macworld.com/article/156292/2010/12/officeshowdownwordprocessors.html?lsrc=rss_main
A: I know it's not on your list, but have you had a look at OpenOffice.org. It can import/export word files and has the basic features that all word processors need and the big bonus is it's free.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8026",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Keyboard Shortcuts during iChat Screen Sharing Switching Screens
I was just on an iChat-initiated Screen Sharing session with a friend, and had a really rough time telling him to get off the mouse so I can click back to my computer in order to look some stuff up.
Even when on my computer, as long as screen sharing is still active, the audio chat interface remains, so I can keep talking to him as I look up information he's asking for.
Doing this, while watching his screen, was an aggrivating task. How does one switch back to their computer without asking for mouse access to do so?
Ending the Sharing Session
Are there alternate keyboard shortcuts for ending a screen sharing session? The menu bar lists ^ ⎋ for achieving this (⎋ is the power button on your computer). However, I'm stuck in a really annoying middle ground.
At work, I have a MacBook Pro, plugged into a Cinema display, external keyboard (mini-style/no-numpad style), and magic mouse, and I use my laptop with the lid closed. Thus, I have no power button.
Can I end the session without asking for mouse access?
A:
Are there alternate keyboard shortcuts for ending a screen sharing session? The menu bar lists ^ ⎋ for achieving this (⎋ is the power button on your computer). However, I'm stuck in a really annoying middle ground.
Actually, the symbol that you're referring to references the "Esc" key.
So, by pressing ^ ⎋ (Control-Esc) you can end the Screen Sharing session without asking for control of the mouse.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8031",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to install and run nautilus using macports (or any other way) I've installed macports and then done 'sudo port install nautilus' to install nautilus, which all works fine. Now i'm not sure how to actually run nautilus - there's no app in the applications, and if i do 'nautilus' from the terminal it simply throws up a lot of errors.
Am i missing something?
Thanks
And the errors are below:
:~ $ nautilus
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
(nautilus:41295): Eel-WARNING **: GConf error:
Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
(nautilus:41295): Eel-WARNING **: GConf error:
Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
(nautilus:41295): Eel-WARNING **: GConf error:
Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
(nautilus:41295): Eel-WARNING **: GConf error:
Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
GConf warning: failure listing pairs in `/apps/nautilus/preferences': Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
GConf warning: failure listing pairs in `/desktop/gnome/file_views': Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
GConf warning: failure listing pairs in `/desktop/gnome/background': Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
GConf warning: failure listing pairs in `/desktop/gnome/lockdown': Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
GConf warning: failure listing pairs in `/apps/nautilus/desktop': Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
GConf warning: failure listing pairs in `/apps/nautilus/icon_view': Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
GConf warning: failure listing pairs in `/apps/nautilus/desktop-metadata': Failed to contact configuration server; some possible causes are that you need to enable TCP/IP networking for ORBit, or you have stale NFS locks due to a system crash. See http://projects.gnome.org/gconf/ for information. (Details - 1: Failed to get connection to session: Not enough memory)Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
(nautilus:41295): Unique-DBus-WARNING **: Unable to open a connection to the session bus: Not enough memory
(nautilus:41295): Unique-DBus-WARNING **: Unable to connect to the running instance, aborting.
Dynamic session lookup supported but failed: launchd did not provide a socket path, verify that org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist is loaded!
(nautilus:41295): Unique-DBus-WARNING **: Unable to open a connection to the session bus: Not enough memory
(nautilus:41295): Unique-DBus-WARNING **: Unable to connect to the running instance, aborting.
A: This problem sounds like you did not set up dbus yet. Read the output of the command port notes dbus and follow the instructions.
$ port notes dbus
dbus has the following notes:
############################################################################
# Startup items have been generated that will aid in
# starting dbus with launchd. They are disabled
# by default. Execute the following command to start them,
# and to cause them to launch at startup:
#
# sudo launchctl load -w /Library/LaunchDaemons/org.freedesktop.dbus-system.plist
# launchctl load -w /Library/LaunchAgents/org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plist
############################################################################
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8032",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I make my Macbook Pro's headphone jack stop "humming"? Switched recently from a Lenovo PC and one thing on my mac bothered me. Headphones plugged into my Macbook pro 13" (latest version) "hum" with static when there is no audio playing. Then after a short period of time, they stop humming, as if all power to the port is turned off. When any sound plays, it starts again. Anybody know of any setting in the Mac "bios" (or whatever they call it) or with drivers or software to get it to stop humming? It's rather annoying.
A: What you are hearing is the intrinsic noise of the Macbook's DAC and output buffers.
The output does actually power down when it goes unused for a certain period of time, which is why the noise goes away. The analog output is powered down to save battery.
Unfortunately, since the noise is intrinsic to the system, the only way to disable it is to completely disable the ability to output any sound.
There may be a way to modify the period of time it takes before the output gets powered down, but I am not familiar with any.
A: Closing my web browser solved my buzz problem!
My Mac Pro started an electronic type of buzzing sound suddenly in the past few weeks.
The sound was coming from the audio output (headphone jack or firewire audio output - same issue)
I had incorporated some new speakers recently and I thought maybe it was some kind of new grounding problem. While attempting to pursue a solution to the problem, on a whim I decided to shut down my mac to see if that might do anything.
While preparing to shut down I was closing various programs. Then I closed down Google Chrome, on which I had about 10-15 tabs open... and the sound went away!
I've never experienced something like this before. I'm imagining perhaps it was some kind of issue with one of the pages I had up.
I've often had multiple browsers windows, each with multiple tabs open and never had this kind of thing happen... so this was unique experience for me.
A: The hum is also present for me, even with unplugging everything. Actually, if you have a look (or at least, for me, this is the case) if you touch the body of the machine, it ceases to hum. It must be some kind of static buildup of charge on the aluminium body, and when you touch it, your body acts as a very large condenser.
When you can ground the machine with your body, you might want to check the power cord and replace an ungrounded "duck head" or cord with one that goes to a properly grounded wall receptacle. Also, take a toothbrush to the magsafe connectors to ensure all the springs work and make contact to the connector on the mac.
If you use an external USB I/O (I use a mixer, for I'm a session musician), the hum is not plagueing the alternative sound source.
A: Any of the above may apply, but this solved mine;
As soon as I unplugged from power, the buzz went. Nothing to doo with ground loops, or bad connectors ( even though 3.5 mm plugs differ surprisingly ).
The answer was that the laptop Battery was long overdue for replacement. When power is put through this for charging, you get the hum. I have about 40min of battery life without main charging. so it is enough to drive some midi gear from a sound font sampler for a few songs, then mute the channel while I feed it mains power again during the break.
I double checked the exact setup by plugging to a refurbished MacBook Air and confirmed it. ( actually the wife suggested this solution, you know what they say, don't argue with a woman, she's always right :)
A: I found the solution to my problem. For some reason (who knows why) the headphone output was set to 16-bit. Of course that's going to sound awful.
To fix this, head to 'Audio MIDI Setup' (can be found with Spotlight) and change the 'Built-in Output' to 32-bits.
A: My macbook air also hums into my Bose earbuds. Disconnecting the magsafe power cable lessens it, but not by much. Touching the body of the computer dramatically decreases the hum (the more skin that touches, the greater the decrease).
A: Bmike above said that when he touched his, it got rid of the problem. if it's true for you as well OP, try touching the base and a brick wall or something, or lick your fingers and wipe the bottom with them a little. for any other solutions look up how to get rid of static electricity on google.
A: My solution: plug in three pronged charger instead of two pronged charger
Other answers have mentioned this but with other cruft in the way.
A: This is happening for those who are using the MagSafe adapter without the ground. The MagSafe you can connect to the power wall socket in two ways:
*
*Using the 1.5-meter cable which has grounding pins.
*Using the adapter that has only 2 pins and no grounding that's causing the noise.
Buy a cable with grounding and the noise will disappear.
A: iMac 27 inch - late 2012, i7
Well, Apple probably won't like this advice but it EASILY worked for me :
*
*I use the headphone jack output for audio playback from my iMac (Pro Tools, iTunes, etc) and after upgrading to the iMac from my Mac Pro (early 2008, quad core) physically configured the same way (headphone jack output to my speakers) the iMac would constantly emit a BUZZ shortly after any sound was outputted from it. i.e. : something like a system sound would play, there would be silence, and then after about 10 seconds or so the BUZZ would constantly output.
*read and tried a few things that were completely useless and weird to even give a try (but I did regardless) - things like : 'zap the PRAM' ... reset the SMC ... switch to 32bit .... all weird, misguided and did not solve the problem.
*I shut down the iMac, unplugged the power cable from the wall, grabbed a pair of needle nose pliers and then ripped off the GROUND PLUG from the power cable. Plugged it back in, booted back up and SOLVED. Apple's mention of a "ground loop" possibly being the problem in other posts was the best advice I found. They did/would not offer this solution but for me, after working in recording studios for more than 25 years now and experiencing MANY types of grounding issues with regard to BUZZ in the audio signal - it led me to just rip that ground plug off and move forward.
*As a professional I cannot profess to know that the possible negative implications might be from having a non-grounded iMac but let me just say that this is not the first time that I have done this with a computer or any type of gear for that matter to just basically "move on".
Let's see if Apple allows this post. Believe me - try it! If it doesn't help then make sure that you have a replacement IEC power cable (the one that has a female 3-pronged end and a male 3-pronged end) to swap out to if not successful.
A: This post is now the highest ranked answer when you Google
macbook headphone buzzing
, so I thought I´d leave my answer to this question as well.
As others have mentioned above, I also had the issue where I heard a low frequent buzzing/humming sound when I had my headphones (Bose QuietComfort) connected to my Macbook. If I touched the Macbook chassis with my hand, the sound faded. If I lifted my hand, the sound was more present.
There appears to be multiple ways to resolve this issue, depending on the root cause!
In my experience, adjusting the output in "Audio Midi Setup" did nothing. Instead, I discovered the audio jack connected to my headphone (and not my Macbook) was not fully inserted. When I pushed the connector back into the headphones, the buzz was gone!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8039",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: How can I change the location which Anki uses to save files? The program Anki saves its data to the Documents folder. I would like to move this folder to my Dropbox folder. Anki has no settings which allows you to change the location that data is stored.
Is there any way to move this folder to another location and point Anki to the new folder via Mac OS X? I tried moving the folder and then creating an Alias in the same location (with the same name) by ⌥+⌘ dragging the file in Finder, but Anki doesn't see the files in the new folder.
A: You may be able to use Symbolic Links to create a link between where Anki stores its files and a folder within DropBox. Information on how to create symbolic links and how they differ from Aliases can be found here:
http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=2001110610290643
A: When going to documents folder there is a readme with link to the user manual. That page has several ways to pick the data location. Portable mode is my pick. Standalone also looks good.
Adding the -b flag was not working until I read
On Windows, right-click on the shortcut, choose Properties, select the Shortcut tab, and add "-b \path\to\data\folder" after the path to the program…
which should leave you with something like
C:\Program Files\Anki\anki.exe" -b "C:\AnkiDataFolder"
There are options for Macintosh and flash drive too, all on that same page.
A: As of Anki 2.1, the ANKI_BASE environment variable should be work per this. However, you might need to set it in a Launch Daemon / Agent for Anki to figure it out if you use Spotlight. Tested 2.1.0beta4.
A: Actually, that is not the best way. You can run Anki in portable mode and specify the path to a different data folder. Create a shortcut to Anki.exe and change the target path to this:
anki.exe -b "D:\Anki"
Close Anki, move your Anki data files to D:\Anki (or whatever folder you choose) and restart Anki.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8040",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: How can I install boot camp off a Windows 7 USB flash drive? I'm trying to follow the directions on how to create a Windows 7 installation USB flash drive. I was able to create the drive and when I insert it into a Windows computer, it shows the installer correctly.
The problem is that when I get to the "Start Windows Installation" step in boot camp, it asks to insert the Windows disk. I inserted the USB drive, and it appears on the desktop, however, when I click Start Installation, I get the following error message:
The installer disc could not be found.
Insert your Windows installer disc and wait a few seconds for the disc to be recognized.
A: long story short. To create a boot disk on USB do this:
*
*open bootcamp app contents (finder, right-click on bootcamp app at applications folder)
*Copy info.plist file to another place (like desktop), rename the original to something like "OLDinfo.plist" to preserve a backup.
*Right-click that copied file and open it with textedit
*Search for a line containing the string(close to the bottom):
PreUSBBootSupportedModels
*Remove the "Pre" string so the line look like:
USBBootSupportedModels
*Save the file and copy it back to the bootcamp package contents.
*Run the bootcamp and select the corresponding USB generating option that now shows up there at second screen.
*Use the rEFIt thing as noted before.
*Profit!
A: I'm having the exact same problem. I tried holding the option key when rebooting to see if I could boot from the USB key but I could not find a way to do this, so I installed rEFIt (then rebooted twice!) and THEN plugged in the USB key and the next time I rebooted it did show up as an option to boot from the USB key.
I tried that and the windows installer loaded and it found the new bootcamp FAT32 partition. It said I couldn't install to the bootcamp partition because it requires NTFS.
This SuperUser post suggests "simply format the partition using the Windows installer's built-in utility (in other words, as part of the installation process)" so I did that continued with the install and everything works fine!
A: This is just a wild guess, but what about pressing and holding the alt key while booting and see if it will allow you to choose the USB drive the boot drive.
I don't know if the mac will boot from USB at all.
A: If you are using Lion, there is an easy way to use Bootcamp to install Windows. Bootcamp in itself has support to create Windows 7 install disk from iso file, but by default it is disabled for Macbook Pros.
Check out this link for how to do it.
With Lion, Apple has added an option to BootCamp that will create a
bootable USB Windows 7 install disk.
Unfortunately, Apple only allows this on computers that support
booting from a USB drive (a.k.a. they don't have optical drive) which
include the MacBook Air and 2011 Mac Mini. Their is a way around this,
and after searching and finding the solution, I decided to pass it one
to you.
A: Use a trial verion of DAEMON Tools for mac, and mount the image file.
A: What the guy above says about the DAEMON Tools works, though there are more steps needed. First you'll need an ISO file, which you can actually make out of the flash drive by simply creating a new image file in Disk Utility by clicking on the New Image icon on the Toolbar, though obviously first you need the flash drive selected in the left hand column, make the Image Format DVD/CD Master (I don't think its necessary to have a encryption), and save it where you find convenient (like the Desktop). Now you can rename it from .cdr to .iso (it needs to be an ISO I believe). Now download and open DAEMON Tools (just use the 20 day trial), and press the Quick Mount icon at the bottom and navigate and open your ISO file. Now Boot Camp Assistant should be able to see your ISO file/data from flash drive, and the rest should be handled without problem. You can also get the rEFIt boot manager if you want, be my guest. (Oh yeah, and this is using the latest software, Yosemite, though on a MacBook Pro 15 inch, Mid 2010) If the whole flash drive converting to ISO (I did here) doesn't work or isn't recognized, just get the Windows (whatever version) ISO file from the Microsoft website.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8044",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "22"
} |
Q: Why do I need an admin password to change the VPN PPP Password in my keychain? It's MY local personal keychain after all. I can edit other passwords, but not the VPN PPP pasword. See screenshot for details.
A: I think because VPN is a network interface, your basically changing preferences for that (so that´s a global change, not only for your keychain item). So the same way you need to identify as an admin to unlock "System Preferences...">"Network" for being able to change interfaces, you would need to do that here, too.
A: Because it's YOUR keychain. This prevents someone else from sitting down at your computer and changing your keychain passwords.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8046",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to install Ubuntu from OS X? I'm looking for a solution that would enable me to install Ubuntu and run it as a virtual machine under OS X but still be able to boot directly Ubuntu.
If possible I would like to test both scenarios: Ubuntu guest on OS X host and Ubuntu host and OS X guest.
A: If I remember correctly, you should be able to install Ubuntu into Boot Camp, and then virtualize it using Parallels Desktop. Works great with Windows; most likely with Ubuntu as well.
A: *
*installing Ubuntu as dual boot with OS X
*running OS X from within Ubuntu:
*
*install VirtualBox
*add yourself to disk group: sudo usermod -G disk,vboxusers -a `whoami`
*create a virtual disk pointing to your real disk
VBoxManage internalcommands createrawvmdk -filename ~/.VirtualBox/OSX.vmdk -rawdisk /dev/sda -partitions 2 -relative (if your OS X is not on /dev/sda2, change disk and partition number accordingly)
*
*create a virtual machine with system OS X 64-bit, with the disk pointing to virtual disk you've just created
*you're ready to launch
A: I also wanted to run ubuntu native on my iMac and could not figure it out for the longest time. I refused to use virtualization software. Took a look at ubuntu's website and the instructions it provides work the best for me.
First make bootable Ubuntu USB Stick
http://www.ubuntu.com/download/help/create-a-usb-stick-on-mac-osx
Restart your computer.
Hold down Option ⌥ when chime sounds.
Select your installation method (i.e.: install Ubuntu along side OS X)
A: People have gotten VirtualBox to use a partition as a drive for a virtual machine. However, I don't believe it is officially supported. This link, while discussing windows as the guest, may point you in the right direction.
http://forums.virtualbox.org/viewtopic.phpf=7&t=20793&p=89806&hilit=raw+partition+vista#p89806
Old but still contains useful information:
http://blarts.wordpress.com/2007/12/06/how-to-run-virtualbox-using-a-physical-partition-using-ubuntu-feisty-fawn/
A: Your best bet is going to require a significant amount of manual work. Technically, you can't Boot Camp Ubuntu as it is a specialized way to streamline Windows dual boot installs on Macs.
However, you can use it to create an initial partition, which you delete and format for Ubuntu's use. Alternatively, you can use Disk Utility to decrease the size of your OS X partition. Then use Ubuntu's installer to modify that empty space into usable partitions for Ubuntu. From there, install Ubuntu as usual. (Be sure to hold down C while booting to ensure you boot from the disc.)
Finally, you would have to choose your virtualization platform:
*
*VirtualBox supports raw disc access but has very large warnings against its usage due to data corruption concerns, etc. Chapter 9 of their manual covers raw disc access.
*VMware Workstation supports raw disk access, but unfortunately doesn't work on OS X. Even worse, VMware Fusion doesn't appear to support setting up raw disk access from the GUI.
The workaround, should you choose the VMware approach, is to use the command line tools and manually editing config files to give you access to raw disk access. This forum thread has useful discussion on this process, as well as other concerns.
A: To my knowledge, you can't have an Ubuntu virtual machine (VMware, VirtualBox or even Xen) and then be able to native boot the same. Seems kind of crossed purposes to me... :)
A: Yeah your only option is to install Ubuntu and OS X in a dual boot scenario and install VirtualBox on both. the OS X (guest) inside V-Box is pretty difficult to do but definitely possible because I have done it. Ubuntu (guest) inside OS X is simple to set up.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8051",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How does autorotation work on the iPhone (in terms of hardware, not software) I have always wondered how the orientation/autorotation hardware works inside an iPhone/iPad/iPod Touch.
Originally I thought it was the accelerometer but I don't think it is as an accelerometer can only measure movement and the iPhone knows it's current orientation without any movement.
I have assumed until now that there is a little tilt switch inside the phone as well as the accelerometer and that this is used, but really I have no idea and Google isn't helping much! ;)
Anyone know how it works?
A: It´s called a gyroscope. Have a look at this article on iFixit, it explains it (within an iPhone 4) quite well.
A: In the older iOS devices it's the accelerometer - it is detecting the constant acceleration due to gravity.
Normal motion produces only short bursts of acceleration, not long enough to trigger rotation.
If you put your iOS device in a fast car and accelerated it for several seconds you could probably get it to autorotate the wrong way.
A: From what I know, the iPhone (and iPod Touch) didn't have a gyroscope until the latest model. Are you guys sure it's not the accelerometer that did this, and now it is the gyroscope in the most recent models?
A: I talked to a person about this topic (who was skilled in electronics as well as in software development), he answered, there is a special IC (integrated circuit) integrated on the circuit boards of some modern mobile phones that determines which edge of the phone is currently downwards which is used in autorotation of screen using software (the driver of the IC). When the screen is kept horizontally, no change in the screen orientation occurs because none of the edges of the phone is found downwards.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8056",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I run a shell command at login time without showing a Dock entry?
Possible Duplicate:
How to run something automatically when the system boots or a use logs on?
I need to automatically run a command when I log in but I don't want to add an item to the Dock. How can I do this?
A: If that's really a command, not app, then you do this by deploying launchd, Apple's standard daemon/agent manager.
Creating plist files by hand is error-prone, I suggest you to use Lingon.app
It used to be free, now it isn't anymore, but instead available on AppStore (if you're using the latest OS X 10.6.6).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8058",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I enter DFU mode on an iPhone 3G OS 4.2.1? I've tried several solutions to enter DFU mode but none worked:
- the Home + Sleep combo
- the DFU program here
Somebody has an idea?
A: DFU has always worked as follows:
*
*Turn off the phone
*Hold power and Home for 10 seconds (exactly 10 seconds, use a clock with seconds)
*Release Power, but keep holding Home
*After 5-10 seconds you should get the phone detected on the computer with the screen still black.
I've tested this on 2G, 3G, 3Gs and works on all of them fine.
Here's a video on how to do DFU properly: iPhone DFU Mode
Also I just like to note that this procedure must not be mistaken for recovery mode (iTunes cable screen), which is done by:
*
*Hold Home
*Keep holding Home, press power to start the device (1-2 sec is enough)
*Release power, keep holding Home until you get to the iTunes cable screen
A: This is not DFU, this is recovery mode.
DFU is:
- 2 sec Power
- 10 sec Power + Home
- 15 sec Home
And it doesn't work for me.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: best way to backup a jailbroken iphone 3gs? I want to be able to backup my apps, sources and themes so that i can still do restores without having to go through the whole process everytime. I am a tinkerer, and sometimes I break stuff. I need a way out!!
A: Have you checked out pkgbackup on cydia? It has worked for me.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I type a backtick (accent grave or "`") on a European (Dutch) keyboard? How can I type a backtick (accent grave, or "`") on an European (Dutch) apple keyboard ?
A: According to this image from Apple's KB article, it appears to be between the Z and shift.
A: On European keyboard, press alt + 9.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8063",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Boot 2010 iMac from 2007 MacBook Pro's drive? I am considering purchasing a 2010 27" iMac to replace my 2007 MacBook Pro as my everyday development machine. Ideally, I would like to work on the iMac when I am in my home office and work on the MacBook Pro when I am out at a clients office, coffeeshop, etc. I would like both machines to be in sync so I don't have to worry about not having an application installed, missing project files, etc.
Is it possible to use the internal drive on the MacBook Pro as the boot drive of the iMac? This would enable me to simply shut the machines down, disconnect my MacBook Pro and have a less powerful but functionally equivalent machine to go. If it is possible what are the drawbacks? Are things like system updates machine specific which would prevent me from updating the OS using the iMac and then trying to boot into the MacBook?
I am not interested in using an external drive to boot the MacBook as it would be too cumbersome, nor am I interested in using the iMac as merely a display for the MacBook since the iMac will be significantly faster.
If using the laptop as a boot drive is not feasible are their other options I should consider?
A: It may be possible, but not recommended. While you don't really have to worry about drivers so much - there may be minor incompatibilities. That is if you get it to boot - especially if the MacBook Pro isn't running the latest version of the OS thats after whatever originally came on the iMac.
System updates can be used across machines, but when the install is being done it does check the hardware. You may end up installing iMac specific things on your MacBook Pro, which may cause issues.
You really have two routes:
*
*Buy a new MacBook Pro instead, and an external monitor. Therefore you have the same machine, and can go wherever.
*Sync the two machines using items like Dropbox, etc. I understand maybe application differences, but thats a very small issue (almost a non issue). Keep most of your files on dropbox, and everythings always in sync.
I would go (and do use) the second solution. My primary machine is a 27" iMac, but I constantly use my wifes 13" MacBook Pro when going out or not at my desk. I then keep most all active documents in Dropbox and sync between. Both are outfitted with the software I need (in my case, Aperture, TextWrangler, Xcode, etc).
A: I'm slightly surprised that this problem hasn't been solved yet for home use. It must be a fairly common problem. Or possibly just a problem that people wish was solved but never get around to doing anything with.
I'm not sure how to solve you're actual problem of booting off the MacBook Pro hard drive. But I have two other options shown below.
For a while, I was using Unison File Synchronizer to sync between my MacBook Pro and a Hackintosh netbook I had. Wasn't a bad solution and seemed pretty quick to sync but I never trusted it 100%, assuming that I would probably lose everything if something went wrong.
As another option, I wonder if you can set up a Portable Home Directory. This is where there is a copy of your home directory on the server. Each computer that you use creates a local copy which is synced back to the server. It can either be connected to the network (as the iMac will be) or synced later if you take it out of the house (like the MacBook Pro). This seems to be suited more to a workplace or similar but you could probably get it working at home. At fairly decent looking guide is available here but clearly YMMV. I'm tempted to try this at home at some point but haven't bothered yet.
As another option, it might be possible to automount the MacBook Pro home directory from the iMac and use that as your home directory... but that sounds a little messy.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Transfer OS X Dashboard Widgets Between Computers Can anyone tell me an easy way to transfer my dashboard widgets from one OS X computer to another? If there was a way to keep their positioning/settings too that would be great.
A: macOS does not have the /Users/[user]/Library/Widgets/ folder on a fresh install. Simply create the Widgets folder and place your widget file in it. Your widget will appear in the Dashboard.
A: Widgets are saved at /Library/Widgets/ and /Users/[user]/Library/Widgets/
If you copy /Users/[user]/Library/Preferences/com.apple.dashboard.plist that will copy your Dashboard configuration.
Each widget will have it's own configuration file in /Users/[user]/Library/Preferences/, for example widget-com.apple.widget.weather.plist
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8073",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Tools for prototyping iPad applications (I asked in stackoverflow but repeat it here)
I would like to build a GUI prototype for an iPad application. The prototype can use static data (e.g. an xml file) but should look good and be fully functional, i.e. support user gestures, etc.
Obviously, I can program it in Objective-C. I wonder if I can use any other tool to build such a GUI easier. Does such a tool exist ?
Maybe I should use a GUI builder to build a "static" GUI and add some Objective-C code to make it react on user gestures. Does it make sense ?
A: Balsamiq: http://balsamiq.com/
A: Interface lets you make the mockup in the iOS device, and looks and acts like a real app. The mockup can then be exported to xcode.
A: I have been using iMockups for my prototyping purposes for several months now and have been pleased with it so far.
The only downside can also be its greatest strength (depending on your needs): it is designed to be flexible. For instance, you can do quick web mockups as well in the app. Since it isn't specialized, you don't get features such as exporting code for Xcode to use, but the added flexibility can be a great boon.
A: If you're a Mac user I would highly recommend using Travis Isaacs's very cool Wireframe Toolkit for Keynote. Keynote provided the ability to link areas in your mockup to other slides and use a lot of the transitions and animations that are very close to their iOS counterparts.
A: WireframeSketcher comes with dedicated stencils for iPad applications. You can use links for simple interactivity. You can even test your prototype on iPad by exporting it to HTML that you can put online via Dropbox.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Can I access TimeMachine data from a machine other than the one that was being backed up? I have an iMac with a dead internal drive. And I have it's TimeMachine drive. I'd like to know that the TimeMachine-based data is safe and sound so I'd like to restore it to my MBPro. But not over top of my MBPro data.
Is it possible to connect the iMac's TM drive to the MBPro and rebuild my Documents folder in to a random location (not over top of the MBPro's Documents folder) on my MBPro?
A: You can navigate your backup drive in the Finder.
Mount it, go to the Backup folder > [name of machine] > [name of volume] > latest > Users > [user name] and restore the files you want.
(You can also choose a date instead of latest to restore earlier versions of the files/files that have been deleted.)
A: You can use the Time Machine UI to restore from the backups of a different Mac by option-clicking the Time Machine icon in your menubar or right-clicking the Time Machine icon in your Dock, and selecting "Browse Other Time Machine Disks". (See question 17 from the Time Machine FAQ for more details.) You'll still need to navigate to "Latest" (or an earlier backup) as zevlag describes in his answer if you choose to do this.
If you do elect to use the comfort of Time Machine to choose what to restore, you'll want to read question 16 from the FAQ: "How can I restore a file/folder to an alternate location?"
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is it possible to send message to shared iTunes library owners on the network? I wonder if this is a way (or an app) to send instant messages to iTunes library shared owners, visible on the network.
It would be really handy to be allowed to communicate with them :-)
A: I don't know about a specific app to send instant messages (I doubt one exists) BUT I like to rename my own shared library something akin to "if you don't stop stealing my internet I'll steal your credit card info". Not that I actually know how to do that, but it usually scares them off my wireless.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8080",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do you view more than 20 podcasts in the iTunes app on the iPhone? When viewing a podcasts on the iPod app on the iPhone, there's an option below to "Get more episodes". When you click on that, iTunes app is launched, and you're shown the latest 20 episodes.
Is there a way to view more than the last 20 episodes? I want to download even older ones.
A: In the iPhone app, at the bottom of the list of episodes you will always find the link you can tap to "Get More Episodes". That is a hardwired link to that podcast's page on iTunes. This link will be shown regardless of whether or not there are more episodes actually available.
The podcast pages in the iTunes app and in iTunes on the desktop are the same and contain the same episode list. The episode lists themeselves are not controlled or determined by Apple or iTunes, but by the makers of each podcast. Podcast makers use different feed systems (like adlib or feeedburner) and they have different bandwith limitations depending on their own usage terms.
Podcasts like This American Life, for example, in order to minimize bandwith costs, will only keep the latest episode on their episode list. So when you tap on "Get More Episodes" you will only get a list of one. Podcasts like This Week In Tech, for example, have bandwith sponsors that allow them to host most of their back catalogue. So when you tap on "Get More Epidodes", you will get a list of fifty or more. It basically all depends on how each podcast maker handles their feed and bandwith costs.
Hope this helps.
A: It seems that the 20 limit you see is a limitation set by the podcast provider, not Apple. When I tried this with several podcasts, some had their full archive of podcasts available, while others limited it to the last 10, for example.
You could try to find the podcast in iTunes on your desktop and see if that limitation exists there as well. Most likely it will have the same 20 episode limitation. If that is the case, you could try going to the podcast's website to see if they have an archive of old podcasts available.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8083",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Terminal window as its own app During my work day as a software developer, I frequently have multiple Terminal windows open, each dedicated to a specific purpose and directory. I switch between them on a regular basis.
I'd like to create entirely separate applications for each of them. This would give me several benefits over and above the normal windows I have now:
*
*Separate icons in the Dock
*Separate icons in the Command-Tab task switching
*I could pin each window to separate spaces.
Is there some way to accomplish this?
A: @mankoff got me on the right path. Here's what I had to do in order to get what I want:
*
*Copy Terminal.app to a new file (ex: MyTerminal.app)
*Change the icon of the app by:
*
*Copy an icon image to the clipboard from Preview
*Right-click (Command-click) on the app
*Select "Get Info"
*Click the app icon in the upper left corner
*Pasting the new icon image from the clipboard
*Right-click on the App and choose "Show Package Contents"
*Change the following values in Contents/Info.plist:
*
*"Bundle display name" -> "MyTerminal"
*"Bundle identifier" -> a unique app-specific string. I chose "ca.softcraft.myterminal" as I own the domain "softcraft.ca"
*Bundle name -> "MyTerminal"
*Document Types -> Delete
*URL Types -> Delete
*Application has localized display name -> uncheck
*Exported Type UTIs -> Delete
*I deleted a bunch of the localization settings (Contents/Resources/*.lproj) as they're not necessary for me; I just need English
*In Contents/Resources/English/InfoPlist.strings, I deleted the "CFBundleName" and "CFBundleDisplayName" override settings
*In Contents/Resources/Initial Settings, I deleted all but one of the *.terminal files.
*
*I'm using a custom terminal setting, but there's no reason you couldn't use Basic
*In Contents/Resources/Initial Settings/settings.plist, I made sure my "Default Settings" value was set to the name of my .terminal file
*I set the values in the .terminal file to match what I wanted on open
*
*This is just a .plist file with a different extension; you can use Property List Editor to modify it
*You can also set these using Terminal itself and then export them
*I mainly changed "CommandString" to be what I want launched when I run the new "app".
This works excellently. The new "Terminal" apps are independent of each other and of the main Terminal. I can spin off new ones fairly quickly now.
I also did this with Firefox to create a site-specific browser for my development website. (I had tried Mozilla Prism but found it too limiting).
A: You could do something like this but with iTerm or Terminal.
A: Just copy Terminal.app or iTerm.app and rename each copy ProjectA.app, ProjectB.app.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8088",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: How to run Applescript on Disk mount I want to run an Applescript when I mount a specific disk. It isn't if the script is located on the disk or not, it should just run when OS X mounts the disk.
I tried to accomplish this with folder actions, but it looks like it isn't possible to do it this way.
Clarification:
*
*I get home with my Macbook
*I plug my USB Hub into the device
*External disks are mounted in OS X
*My Applescript gets run, does some stuff on those disks
I want to automate step 4.
A: You don't mention under which context you are mounting the disk, but what about going the other way and mounting the disk with the Applescript?
I mention context because when mounting a disk with Applescript is the big caveat that if it is a network volume, and the network is password-protected, then the user name and password would have to be stored as plain text in the script for a seamless execution.
UPDATE: A bit of searching found a similar question elsewhere. Essentially, a script can be made to do this by applying the script as a Folder Action to /Volumes:
on adding folder items to this_folder after receiving these_items
repeat with aItem in these_items
tell application "Finder"
if (local volume of aItem) and (name of aItem is "[Name of Hard Drive]") then
-- do something with the drive
-- eject aItem
end if
end tell
end repeat
end adding folder items to
A: Use a Finder FolderAction that monitors /Volumes. When a new folder appears, that means a new disk has been attached. Now your FolderAction can run an Automator action, AppleScript, or shell script to do your thing.
A: The likely most robust solution is to create a launchd job with the StartOnMount property set to -boolean YES:
StartOnMount <boolean>
This optional key causes the job to be started every time a filesystem is mounted.
This is how Time Machine does it (see /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.backupd-attach.plist).
A: MarcoPolo can do actions based on disk attachment.
A: A solution would be to create an Automator application chaining the 3 following actions :
*
*Get Specified Finder Items
*Mount Disk Image
*Run AppleScript
A: Depending on your needs, this can be applied to specific folder/mount points and is great to use when mounting a USB flash drive for example...
http://www.jbmurphy.com/2011/07/15/os-x-running-a-script-when-a-usb-drive-is-inserted/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8090",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: How to make an alias (Cmd-L) using command line? With Finder, Cmd-L is a short-cut to make an alias of a file/directory. How can I use the command line to do that?
I tried 'ln -s', but it generates the 'Symbolic Link', not 'Alias'.
A: mkalias is a binary available in a set of tools here. It can also be installed via Homebrew with brew install osxutils.
This is a SH shell script that calls AppleScript to create an alias.
I'm including the shell script here for future reference incase it goes missing from the nets.
#!/bin/sh
# make_alias
# This script takes two command-line arguments:
# 1) The name (relative or full path) of a source file or folder (directory)
# 2) The name (relative or full path) of a destination folder (directory)
# The script makes a Finder-style alias to the source file or folder
# and puts it in the specified destination folder.
#
# Cameron Hayne (macdev@hayne.net), December 2003
# Modified as suggested by Paul Russell (prussell@sonic.net), May 2006
# to allow either file or folder as source
# Mofified to work with ".app" files, January 2007
scriptname=`basename $0`
if [ $# -lt 2 ]; then
echo "Usage: $scriptname srcPath destPath"
exit
fi
srcPath=$1
destPath=$2
if [ ! -e "$srcPath" ]; then
echo "$scriptname: $srcPath: No such file or directory"
exit
fi
# remove possible trailing slash from $srcPath
srcPath=${srcPath%/}
# set $srcType to "file" or "folder" as appropriate
if [ -d "$srcPath" ]; then
if [ "${srcPath##*.}" == "app" ]; then
srcType="file"
else
srcType="folder"
fi
else
srcType="file"
fi
# check if the $destPath directory exists
if [ ! -d "$destPath" ]; then
echo "$scriptname: $destPath: No such directory"
exit
fi
# check if we have permission to create a new file in the $destPath directory
if [ ! -w "$destPath" ]; then
echo "$scriptname: No write permission in the directory $destPath"
exit
fi
case $srcPath in
/*) fullSrcPath=$srcPath ;;
~*) fullSrcPath=$srcPath ;;
*) fullSrcPath=`pwd`/$srcPath ;;
esac
case $destPath in
/*) fullDestPath=$destPath ;;
~*) fullDestPath=$destPath ;;
*) fullDestPath=`pwd`/$destPath ;;
esac
/usr/bin/osascript > /dev/null <<EOT
tell application "Finder"
set macSrcPath to POSIX file "$fullSrcPath" as text
set macDestPath to POSIX file "$fullDestPath" as text
make new alias file to $srcType macSrcPath at folder macDestPath
end tell
EOT
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8102",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can we unlock an iPhone backup file if we don't know the password? I've got a rather peculiar problem. My wife's iPhone got stolen and we bought a new one from the insurance money. When trying to restore the backup file to her new phone, iTunes asks for the password:
Enter the password to unlock your iPhone backup file.
The problem is, that she removed the password a long time ago. Hence she can not remember it. All we know is that it must be a number between 1111 and 9999.
Is there any way to brute force this? Other than by hand?
A: The password used to encrypt the backup file might have been saved to the user's keychain.
*
*from /Application/Utilities open the Keychain Access utility
*make sure that on the left side "All items" is selected under categories
*in the upper right search field enter "iphone" and then look for a keychain item named "iPhone Backup" of kind "application password". If there is no such item, you´re mostly out of luck
*double click on the "iPhone Backup" entry and in the new window that will open, click on the "show password" checkbox
*you will now be prompted to enter your password (the one your user has on your Mac) to show the iPhone backup password; click Allow (once). You should now see the iPhone Backup password in clear text.
I don't think windows has an equivalent store for saving the password. If not, you will have to try brute forcing it in iTunes - just me methodical - write down all sorts of passwords that may have been used - brainstorm a bit. Then try them one by one. Hopefully with the pressure off a bit you will stumble upon the pass phrase that was used.
A: On my Mac when this happened to me unexpectedly, I simply entered the password for the machine I synced the phone with and it worked. So the password is likely to be the password for the user account you sync your phone to.
You might also try the password for your AppleID as many people will enter that thinking that iTunes wants the AppleID password when in fact they are independent.
A: There are a wide variety of brute force cracking options that will repeatedly try passcode or other engineering to crack the protection.
*
*Elcomsoft markets one to unlock or decrypt iPhone backup files.
*http://www.jihosoft.com/itunes/itunes-backup-unlocker.html
*http://www.windowspasswordsrecovery.com/product/iphone-backup-unlocker.htm
Most of these run in the $50 range for price, and depending on what password was used, it might take weeks or years to try all possible combinations before the software "guesses" what you used.
A: Brute force is possible to crack the password unless:
*
*The password is week. According to my test, it took 8 hours to break a password with 6 pure digits.
*The Computer should have a high profile especially for GPU.
*The backup made by lower version of iTunes has more possibilities for breaking.
Edit: Here is a step by step guide to unlock iTunes backup password in response to the comment.
A: It's 1234 - I never set this password I am quite sure, and someone on the Apple discussion board suggested it and it works. Crazy, but it works.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: software for autoslicing a song I'm searching a program for slicing a song (MP3, wav, whatever) automatically in different patterns.
A: I hope I understand correctly, you are trying to edit a song, perhaps for a ringtone or something ?
You could try Garageband that ships with your Mac,
Or you could try this Program, Audacity, I find it very useful.
http://audacity.sourceforge.net/
Hope it helps
Karl
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8105",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: how can I add command line parameters to an application shortcut Chromium has command line flags. I'd like to use them, but I'd like to put them on the shortcut, since I tend to launch Chromium via spotlight. Is this possible?
A: Make an Automator app called "ChromiumLauncher" that runs the commands you want. Drawback is you will get the ChromiumLauncher bouncing in your Dock for a second or two before it goes away.
A: It will launch faster if you cut out Automator and just do it with Applescript (and then save that applescript as an application bundle).
Here's an example:
do shell script "open /Applications/Chromium.app --args --enable-expose-for-tabs"
| {
"language": "en",
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Q: Safari 5.0.3 crashes I just update my Mac to 10.6.6 and Safari to 5.0.3 now almost every page I load causes Safari to crash, it does well on simple pages like Google but anything with a bunch of images or flash and it loads to about 3/4 and hangs until I force quit. Are there any known issues?
A: I haven't heard of any specific issues with 5.0.3 and 10.6.6.
However, there are times when upgrades to Safari will break things like plugins or extensions. I recommend disabling all extensions and plugins via the Safari preferences. Then you can enable one plugin or extension at a time and visit a website that you know will crash your browser. If things work fine, repeat this process for each plugin or extension until you discover the one that is causing things to break. Once you find the culprit, you might have to wait until they issue a new version.
Having said all of this, there is a very good chance your crashes are related to Flash. Flash is a known vector for Safari crashes on Mac OS X and Apple has repeteadly stated that a majority of the crash logs they receive are Flash-related.
Even if you were not experiencing these crashes, I would still recommend getting something like Click2Flash to disable Flash on all websites--this is a great way to get rid of pesky ads. This should considerably reduce the number of crashes in Safari, assuming what Apple says is true. With Click2Flash, you can always whitelist specific websites so you can unblock their Flash content or you can unblock Flash elements on a click-by-click basis (hehce the name, Click2Flash).
Hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8123",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Is it safe to install Windows Updates on a Boot Camp'ed OS? I just installed Windows 7 on Boot Camp, and when I login to windows, it says that there are Windows Updates available. The problem is that one time when I tried to install these updates, it prevented Windows from starting up again. So I'm wondering if it's okay to run all of the Windows updates as they appear, if I have to avoid some of them, or if I have to wait until Apple releases a patch which would permit the updates to be installed without any adverse effects.
Here is the series of events that occurred as I remember them:
*
*Installed boot camp
*Installed Apple's drivers via a USB flash drive
*Restarted
*Connected to internet
*Windows noticed that there were a few recommended updates and installed them.
*Restarted
*I manually checked for updates in Windows Update to see if there were any more, it showed 40 or so.
*I began the update process.
*While it was downloading and installing the updates, I ran Apple's Software Update. It showed that there was an update to Boot Camp (3.2, I believe). I didn't install it since Windows Updates was already in the process of installing updates.
*Restarted
*Windows didn't load, instead Startup Repair loaded which said that Windows was unable to load normally.
*One of its suggestions was to perform a system restore, I approved this.
*After some time, Startup Repair said that wasn't successful at finding a solution. (It's ambiguous as to whether or not the restore worked.)
*Restarted
*This time it launched Windows correctly.
*I checked how many updates there were in Windows Updates, and it showed only 4.
*I launched Apple's Software Update, and updated to the latest Boot Camp.
*Restarted
*This time when I checked for Windows Updates, it showed more than 40.
My guess is that the restore did work, since after restarting, Windows launched. Plus, it showed more than 40 updates left.
A: For practical purposes, when you boot into your Boot Camp partition you are on a regular PC: All updates pushed thru Windows Update should work as expected. I have used Boot Camp since the beta period all the way to Snow Leopard and I have never experienced a situation like the one you describe.
I believe that Windows Update will only push updates that are critical (like security updates) and everything else (like driver updates) is listed as optional. I recommend enabling the option that makes Windows Update prompt you whether or not it should install updates when available. That way if you are in doubt, you can always review and make sure any driver updates are not pushed into your system, and things like security updates are.
It might be a good idea to stick to the drivers provided by Apple.
I am unsure why you had to manually install the drivers on a USB drive, since they are usually installed automatically from the Mac OS X DVD right after Windows completes its setup. I wonder if there is a particular situation with your system and that the fact you had to install the drivers separately is related to what is causing your hardware to be unreponsive now.
A: You should be just fine to install Windows Updates.
It sounds like you have Apple updates already installed, which I would highly recommend before doing Windows Updates.
A: The cautious Bootcamper will disable multi-touch prior to updating:
The Apple-authored driver appletmp.sys halts Windows 7 startup on Macbook Air
A: There are lots of windows updates that can cause BOOTCAMP to stop working correctly on Apple Hardware. It is good practice to boot back into MacOS occasionally and run any updates on the MacOS side (which may include Firmware updates for the hardware).
It is a good idea to run Apple Software Update on the Windows side to also update any BOOTCAMP drivers specific to the Apple Hardware.
I also disable Windows Update from downloading and installing Drivers.
How to stop updates for drivers with Windows Update using Group
Policy.
*
*Use the Windows key + R keyboard shortcut to open the Run command.
*Type gpedit.msc and click OK to open the Local Group Policy Editor .
*Browse the following path: Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components > Windows Update.
*On the right side, double-click the Do not include drivers with Windows Update policy.
*Select the Enabled option.
*Click Apply . Click OK .
Most other Windows Updates are installed as they become available.
Some previously released Windows updates have broken Wifi as well as caused Bluetooth issues with Magic Mouse and Magic Keyboard devices (Currently fixed with the third party 'Magic Utilities'). Graphics drivers are usually the worst and it is best to stick with the Apple Supplied drivers, rather than using the GPU Manufacturer or Windows supplied drivers.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8124",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can a MacBook Air use another computer's optical drive when running Windows on Boot Camp? I installed boot camp on a MacBook Air by following these directions. In step 2 under "Step 4: Install the Windows Support Software", I did exactly as the guide said, and launched WindowsSupport/Boot Camp/setup.exe instead of WindowsSupport/setup.exe. I noticed that the latter has a Read Me.rtf associated with it which reads:
Double-click setup.exe, in the root level of this disc, to install the following:
• Boot Camp drivers, which allow you to use your Mac-specific hardware with Windows, including your Apple keyboard, mouse, trackpad, and built-in iSight camera. For more information on Boot Camp, see http://www.apple.com/bootcamp.
• Remote Install Mac OS X, which allows MacBook Air users on your local network to install Mac OS X using a Mac OS X installation disc in your computer's optical drive. For more information, refer to the MacBook Air User's Guide.
• DVD or CD Sharing, which allows MacBook Air users on your local network to use your computer's optical drive. For more information, refer to the MacBook Air User's Guide.
I believe that by double-clicking the setup.exe in the Boot Camp directory, the first of these bullet points was installed. The second refers to something about installing Mac OS X, which isn't relevant to me. The third bullet point sounds like the exact opposite of what I'm trying to do. I'm trying to read a DVD off another computer, not have another computer read the DVD off of mine. Therefore, I don't think that it's a problem of not installing the right drivers.
Is it possible to use the optical drive of other computers on the same network in Windows as I can do in OS X?
A: Not as seamless as OS X, but you just share the optical drive via Windows File Sharing (SMB).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8125",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can I override the error AutoCAD gives about my older video card? I have a macbook 2,1 upgraded to 4GB ram and 500 GB hard drive. When installing AutoCAD, it complains that i have an older video card. Granted, that is true, I only use autocad for 2d purposes only. Is there a way to override that error?
A: Thanks to Asmus's suggestion I found that if you remove your graphic card's model from the file unspt_gfx_cards you can install AutoCad. So to recap:
*
*Copy the .mpkg package out of the DMG file to some place like your Desktop
*Right click on the package and select 'Show Package Contents'
*Browse to Contents/Resources/unspt_gfx_cards
*Right click unspt_gfx_cards and open with textedit
*Remove all lines that contain Intel or GMA(for your macbook) and save
*Double click on the .mpkg to install without hardware restrictions
Not sure if you will have any problems running Autocad but at least you should be able to install it.
A: Yes, that would work but you still won't be able to use it as it will give a WHIP error.
Solution: Buy a new i5/i7 Mac, or use BootCamp to boot into Windows XP or 7 and run from there.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8130",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to start with a brand new battery? Is there a special procedure to be followed when installing a brand new battery ?
Like
*
*discharging it completely, or not;
*leave it fully charged for a certain amount of time,
*etc...
(It's a battery of a MacBook Pro)
A: AFAIK, there's no special procedure for a new MB/MBP battery. I recently replaced my MBP's battery myself, and searched Apple support documents for care instructions, but I couldn't find anything other than the standard "drain it once in a while."
Btw, my new battery was completely discharged, and it took about 12 hours to fully charge it. I left it on charge overnight and started using the MBP as usual the next day.
A: Calibrating your battery means you will preserve the battery life for longer.
On its own website Apple says that you should calibrate your battery during the first week and then once every month, and then whenever you purchase new batteries.
Source: Apple Support
A: Even better: http://www.apple.com/batteries/
It has a lot of good information which can be applied across the board. Although portables with built-in batteries are pre-calibrated and do not require the calibration procedure outlined in this article
1- charge battery until it is full charged and let sit for 2-4 hrs fully charged.
2- remove external power source and let unit run until you get the "battery running on reserve" message from the system (usually around the 2-5% mark).
3- Allow the system to put itself to sleep at this point, or you can put the computer to sleep yourself (waiting for the front LED to ebb) and then remove the battery from the system and leave battery out of the computer for 2-4 hrs at 0% charge.
3.1- I like to tell people that they could set their computers up to run over night playing a DVD with full brightness. This usually kills the battery quickly and then the battery and system will sit the rest of the night inactive (this is also a nice way to make sure the system isn't doing anything to data-critical during calibration).
*
*Plug the battery into unit and external power to the computer and charge battery to 100%.
*That is it. Li-Ion batteries need to be calibrated only once. If used appropriately the battery life space (and charge capacity) will hold longer than manufacturer definitions.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8135",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: In Mail.app, how can I set a recipient's default email address? When typing a recipient's name in the "To:" field, Mail.app will bring up an autocomplete menu showing all email addresses for that recipient (e.g., Home and Work). If I don't pay attention and just hit Enter or Tab to autocomplete the recipients name, Mail.app picks the first address.
Is there a way to choose the default email address that Mail.app selects for the autocomplete of a recipient? I'm not sure if this settings resides in Mail.app or the Address Book.
Example
In the example below, there are two email addresses for the recipient. Mail.app defaults to the Home email, whereas I'd prefer it to default to the Work email for this contact.
A: Remove the email address you don't want to be the default from the 'Previous Recipients' list in Mail.app:
Mail -> Window -> Previous Recipients -> Search for Name
This will make the default (and much faster) first address the one in the Previous List and any others in the address book will be further down the auto-complete list.
This works until that recipient sends you a new email from that same address, which puts that email address back into the queue.
A: You can if you have the contact in a group in Address Book. Select the group, then go to Edit > Edit Distribution List... You can select the contact's default email address (the default one is marked in bold). As far as I know, this only sets the default address when emailing that group, though. I don't know of a way to set a default address for a "normal" contact. (After trying to figure out a way off and on for several years, I'm inclined to say it isn't possible, but hopefully someone will prove me wrong.)
A: What order are the addresses in in Address Book? If you put the work address first there, it might be on top in the Mail list and be the default selection.
A: I had to perform the following steps to make this work.
*
*Edit addresses in Contacts using cut-and-paste to make the one I wanted as default at the top
*Mail -> Window -> Previous Recipients -> Search for Name -> Delete
*Send email to new default address
*Restart Mail
All of which is a bit of a PITA, but at least it's working now.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8137",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: Buy AppleCare for MacBook Pro in different country than I bought MacBook
I bought a MacBook Pro 13" in june 2010 in Poland. I want to buy AppleCare Protection, I'm going to Hong Kong where it is 50% cheaper than in Poland. So can I buy it there? Or are there any law/guarantee restrictions?
Mateusz
A: I know of quite a few people based in the UK who have bought their Apple Care from eBay in the states.
A: I purchased my Applecare from China (while I was living there), my MacBook came from Canada, and now I live in New Zealand, where I can still use my Applecare.
Mobile products (like MacBooks) have a worldwide warranty, and that extends to purchases for Applecare as well. Just make sure you are purchasing from a trustworthy seller and you should be set.
Good luck.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8138",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is there a way to reach the multitasking bar on the iPad via a keystroke on the keyboard dock? When the iPad is plugged into the keyboard dock, you can reach the home screen by pressing the "square" button in the upper left corner of the dock's keyboard. Is there a keyboard analogue to the double-press that brings up the multitasking bar, or do you have to reach for the physical button?
A: Double-hitting the Home key (at the Escape key place) will bring the multitasking bar much like the Home button on your iPad.
Confirmed on my iPad Apple keyboard dock.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8139",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What replacement SMS/MMS app for iPhone will allow me to change convo color, etc? My best friend and a client of mine have the same name, and it's way too easy to accidentally click on the client when I'm having a more adult or humorous conversation with my buddy at the same time as my client.
Is there a replacement iPhone texting app that uses the native SMS (I have unlimited texting plan so don't want to bother with giving all my contacts a new handle nor requiring them to download an app themselves), but allows a couple other features like choosing what color a contact's talking bubbles will be or choosing the messaging font?
I really don't want to jailbreak if at all possible.
A: There are loads of "messaging" apps on the App Store, however, none of them use SMS. And if they do, it's one-way, it's send only. All the rest of them are data calls using an external service that invariably requires registrations, and (in some cases) perhaps payment!
This is one of the infamous "duplicates Apple functionality" zones. There is one way in or out of SMS, and that's Messages.app built into the iPhone. It is unfortunate that messages can't be customized beyond how it works external to the app, and the minor details such as showing a subject field, counting characters, etc.
Without Jailbreaking, you will not find a full on frontend replacement for communicating via actual SMSes in the iOS App Store. Other, more "creative" solutions must be done here.
Per @mankoff's comment on your question itself, you could perhaps find a better way to have his name displayed, be it by Nickname or other ways.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8142",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I wake up my Mac from sleep mode remotely? I use logmein to remotely control my computers.
Can I wake up the Mac when it's in sleep mode so that it's offline to the outside world?
A: From this post:
Most modern computers offer a feature
called "Wake on LAN". This is designed
to allow a network administrator to
turn on a computer remotely, even when
it is turned off, by sending a "magic
packet". This is used, for instance,
to allow backup programs to run at
night.
Here is a Python script that does this
(if your MAC address is01-23-45-67-89-0a:
#!/usr/bin/env python
import socket
s=socket.socket(socket.AF_INET, socket.SOCK_DGRAM)
s.sendto('\xff'*6+'\x01\x23\x45\x67\x89\x0a'*16, ('192.168.1.255', 80))
Or you can use Wake550.
or use this site.
A: Historically, I've accomplished this by two means. First, both methods require you to check "Wake for Network Access" in System Preferences -> Energy Saver
(1) If you open Finder, expand the "Shared" section if necessary, and connect to the sleeping computer!
This works occasionally, but not every time. The bonus is that (presumably) at this point, I'm doing what I needed to do anyways.
(2) If that failed, I generally open Wake On LAN and manually send a Wake request to the computer.
A: @Am1rr3zA, I had to add one line to your Python script to make it work, as documented on this page:
#!/usr/bin/env python
import socket
s=socket.socket(socket.AF_INET, socket.SOCK_DGRAM)
s.setsockopt(socket.SOL_SOCKET, socket.SO_BROADCAST, 1)
s.sendto('\xff'*6+'\x01\x23\x45\x67\x89\x0a'*16, ('192.168.1.255', 80))
A: You can also wake up your Mac over wireless.
First, your Mac must support Wake on Wireless. Second, your router must support Wireless Multimedia Extensions (WME), also known as Wi-Fi Multimedia (WMM).
After your enabled WME on your router, you must enable "Wake for network access" on your Mac. Then check the MAC address of your wireless card of your Mac. Put your Mac into sleep. From a second computer log in to your router and with the WOL (Wake on LAN) option wake up your Mac wirelessly by entering the MAC address.
Remember, not every router supports WME.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8143",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Apps rearrange themselves after iPhone restart Occasionally, after i do a forced reboot on my iphone (holding power and home) all the apps rearrange themselves to alphabetical order and it removes all my folders. Is there a way to fix this?
I have a jailbroken iPhone 3gs 4.1.2
A: Since your phone is jailbroken, there's no telling what's installed on the phone, so getting help for the issue may be problematic.
That said, there is an option in Settings to reset your Home Screen, which is what you're seeing. My bet is there's a flag somewhere that does that when the phone is reset.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8156",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to debug Detect Displays? Having trouble using an external monitor I have a MacBookPro (MacBookPro5,4) with the DVI output connection and I can't seem to get it to connect to my Dell Monitor. I've tried using Detect displays and made sure the monitor is using the DVI input. It says there's no power coming from the cable and enters power save. Detect Displays does nothing. Any ideas?
A: A few steps to try:
Try a different cable
Try a different screen
Try a different laptop/macbook
If you get success with one of these then the problem probably lies with whatever you left out, after that you'll have to try combinations of the above.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8158",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why does iTunes re-open after I quit the app? Whenever I quit iTunes, it restarts itself. I have iTunes 10.1.12 (the newest one) installed on my Mac. I don't remember exactly when it started—with either version 10 or 10.1.
Is there any solution to this?
ADDED
It was caused by the GimmeSomeTune, after reinstalling it, everything seems to working fine.
A: I used to have this problem when I had SRS iWow installed in iTunes. Is that the case for you?
If not, do you have any other plugins installed?
A: I've experienced this problem with iTunes. No matter how many times I quit the app it kept launching again. I believe it has something to do with the headphone jack and the way earbuds with remote controls can play or stop music. It seems like the headphone signal gets stuck in play mode.
Unplugging the cord from my MacBook Pro's headphone jack and plugging it back in always solves the problem.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8161",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: What apps are available for subscribing to podcasts directly on the iPhone I listen to a lot of podcasts - A lot of stuff from twit, cnet, smodcast and npr. I sync my phone about once every two weeks or so which for a lot of my daily podcasts is not good. For twit there's a decent mediafly app that is specifically for twit but it seems buggy - when you go back to listening to a podcast after stopping for a while it goes back in time and will skip back anywhere from 30 or so seconds to about 20 mins and you then have to scrub to find out where you were. There is also a standalone mediafly app that is supposed to be for alternate podcast locations but it doesn't seem to do a good job handling the RSS and misses quite a bit plus it has some of the same bugs as the twit version. Also as with any background audio api (aside from the iTunes app) they never properly are able to display the right info on the lock screen - some times it shows the title of the app, sometimes it shows the last thing you were playing in itunes (even though it doesn't play that and plays what you want it to), sometimes it's blank - and it never shows the artwork.
Right now I've resorted to subscribing via iTunes on mac, then on my iPhone go to the podcast, get more episodes and them download from there. It works but it sucks if I'm away from wifi when I want to do that as there is still the 20 meg limit. I'd settle for a single download limit going away and a button to download all new episodes being wifi only
What I would like ideally is to press one button that will download all of the latest versions of my podcasts to the itunes app - this isnt likely to happen.
Failing that I'd like to have an app that lets me do the same thing, download the latest episodes with a single button, delete older episodes automatically, play nicely in the background, and have a good browser/management interface.
A: You could try Podcaster which does over-the-air podcast streaming.
Check out the features
A: Instacast let's you subscribe to podcasts, synchronize over wifi and 3G and allows you to cache (download) or stream episodes.
A: Vemedio's Instacast app will do the trick. It's incredibly well-designed and allows you to add subscriptions from within the app and you can tweak the settings to allow downloading over 3G.
A: I've been using Downcast recently and it's great! I can subscribe (either via search or directly with the RSS URL) and the app automatically downloads new episodes however I've configured it - via Wifi only, ever 4 hours, or with geofencing. It handles automatic playlist building so that I don't have to switch files while I'm driving.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8164",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Is there any way to turn off the automatically opening window for a preview in Marsedit? Whenever I open a post to edit it a whole preview window opens up along with it. I find this effect disorienting. I looked in the preferences and couldn't find anything. How do I shut off the automatic opening?
A: Yes - this is a per blog preference.
I found this on the Mars Edit support page...
*
*Double click the blog in the main window to open settings.
*Click the "Editing" pane.
*Find the "Preview Defaults" at the bottom of that section.
Here's a picture showing that you can choose to have it off or remember the last state as well as the default option of opening.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8165",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Running a command whenever Mac boots up with launchctl/plist I need to run nohup nice synergys -f --config ~/bin/conf/synergy.conf & command whenever the computer boots up.
As is written in this post, I came up with the following plist code.
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC -//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd >
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
<key>Label</key>
<string>synergy</string>
<key>ProgramArguments</key>
<array>
<string>nohup nice /usr/bin/synergys -f --config /Users/USER/bin/conf/synergy.conf &</string>
</array>
<key>RunAtLoad</key>
<true/>
<key>LaunchOnlyOnce</key>
<true/>
</dict>
</plist>
And, ran this command.
launchctl load ./synergy.plist
However, I got this error message.
launchctl: no plist was returned for: ./synergy.plist
launchctl: no plist was returned for: ./synergy.plist
nothing found to load
What's wrong with my plist? Or is my launchctrl command wrong in options?
A: The immediate problem is that your .plist file isn't correctly formatted -- the contents of <string>...</string> should be encoded with HTML entities, i.e. & needs to be encoded as & (note: you can check the format of .plist files with plutil -lint filename.plist). But there are some other changes that need to be made...
Starting programs with launchd is rather different than starting them from a shell. The biggest difference is that from the shell, you want the program to go into the background and run independently of the shell, so you wrap it in nohup ... &. With launchd, it's actually best for the program to stay in the "foreground" so launchd can keep an eye on it.
Also, the elements of ProgramArguments won't get parsed by a shell, so listing the command and its arguments with spaces between them doesn't work -- make each argument a separate element of the array.
Here's my stab at a synergy .plist. I haven't tested this, so it may need a little tweaking to work properly (see notes below):
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC -//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd >
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
<key>Label</key>
<string>local.synergy</string>
<key>ProgramArguments</key>
<array>
<string>/usr/bin/synergys</string>
<string>-f</string>
<string>--config</string>
<string>/Users/USER/bin/conf/synergy.conf</string>
</array>
<key>RunAtLoad</key>
<true/>
<key>Nice</key>
<integer>10</integer>
<key>KeepAlive</key>
<false/>
<key>AbandonProcessGroup</key>
<true/>
</dict>
</plist>
The last two keys above deal with how launchd should react if/when the synergys program exits. By default, it kills any surviving subprocesses and launches a new instance; these two keys supress both parts, which may or may not be what you want. Also, one thing this doesn't do that your version with nohup does is redirect stdin and stdout to nohup.out (in case the terminal goes away); instead IIRC launchd logs things that get sent to them. If synergys is in the habbit of sending output, you might want to add something like this to the .plist:
<key>StandardOutPath</key>
<string>/dev/null</string>
<key>StandardErrorPath</key>
<string>/dev/null</string>
Also, as mankoff said, you should put this in ~/Library/LaunchAgents so it'll be autoloaded every time you log in. Oh, and you should probably add a local. prefix to the filename (as I did with the label) to conform to the reverse-DNS naming convention.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8166",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I activate my iPod if my PC is running Linux? I just bought an iPod, and when I turn it shows an image with the USB cable and iTunes. It wants me to plug it to a computer with iTunes? But I use Linux, what do I do?
A: A few solutions, not all of them good:
*
*If possible, update to iOS 5 (probably at the Apple Store) and don't use iTunes.
*Find a friend with a Mac or a PC and get them to activate it.
*Go to the Apple Store (as Randolph said) and ask them.
*Run Windows in VirtualBox (or another VM solution), and use iTunes from there. (thanks, Fake Name)
*Get sixty million of your best friends to switch to Linux and all complain at Apple for a Linux port of iTunes.
*Run iTunes in Wine, if that's possible.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8167",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is there an iOS4 app that when clicked will perform the same function as Settings->Airplaine Mode on/off? I have issues with my iPod Touch 4G where it disconnects from the access point for no apparent reason, and I need to go into the settings app and toggle the airplane mode to get the wifi working again.
Is there an app that I could run to automatically turn the wifi off and then turn it on again so that I don't have to waste so much time opening the settings and toggling airplane mode? I haven't been able to find one in the appstore.
A: Not without a jailbreak. If you get a jailbreak there are various ways to do things such as switch airplane mode on/off, adjust screen brightness, turn wifi/3G on or off. The app SBSettings is one such example. You'd be better off diagnosing your AP problem than jailbreaking your phone for just this feature though in my opinion.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8168",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I repair my system disk (10.6) by booting off a 10.5 install CD? I'm running Snow Leopard (10.6) and OnyX told me I need to boot from my install CD and use Disk Utility to repair my drive. (It wasn't any more specific as to what the actual problem was.) I can't find my Snow Leopard disc anywhere, but I've got a 10.5.8 disc here. Will it work too?
(Just to be clear, I'm talking about a filesystem repair, not a permission repair. Repairing permissions with a Disk Utility from an older version of the OS won't work.)
A: Can you boot into Snow Leopard at all? If you can, try this command from terminal:
sudo diskutil repairPermissions /
Broken down this does the following:
*
*sudo - run this command as superuser/admin
*diskutil - run the diskutil program
*repairPermissions - obviously this means to repair the permissions
*/ - act on the whole file system
If you can't get into Snow Leopard, you might be able to get into single-user mode by holding ⌘+S on boot
You can run Disk Utility from within Snow Leopard but whether it can repair it will depend on what's wrong.
You can do a Repair Permissions on any disk, or a Repair Disk on any disk which is not your startup disk. If you need to do a Repair Disk, you will need to do that from your CD and I think the 10.5 disk would be OK to use for a Repair Disk when booted from, it may not do a Repair Permissions though.
It's worth trying the Repair Permissions first from Snow Leopard. That solves a lot of issues
A: Assuming you can boot from the Leopard disc, it should work.
You can boot from the install disc by holding C during boot.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8174",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to disable visual display of modifier keys? Somehow I have gotten my Mac Mini into a state where every time I press a modifier key - shift, option, command or control - it shows an image of the symbol of the modifier key around the upper right of the screen. This is quite annoying and I do not know what this feature is called so it is difficult for me to find information about it. How can I disable this "feature"?
A: Go to System Preferences then select "Accessibility" then in both "General" and "Keyboard" sections, disable the sticky keys in the Keyboard and de-select the Sticky Keys in the Keyboard section.
A: It sounds like you have the “Sticky Keys” feature enabled.
To control the setting, open the System Preferences application ( > System Preferences…), load the Universal Access preference pane, goto the Keyboard tab. You can turn “Sticky Keys” Off (or On) there. You may also want to disable the “Press the Shift key five times to turn Sticky Keys on or off” feature. Or, if you want the sticky feature without the display, just disable “Display pressed keys on screen” and leave it enabled.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8180",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: What is it about 3G that kills the iPhone battery? Why does turning on 3G data make my iPhone's battery die faster?
A: The 3G radio requires more power. If you live in a weak 3G signal area, it may also cycle a lot between EDGE and 3G; setting up the 3G connection draws more power. Finally, you may be able to save power by setting the iPhone to Fetch New Data less often (Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendar > Fetch New Data).
A: Do you get less bars with 3G on than with Edge?
If you get less than a strong 5 bars, you phone will turn up the power on the radios (which will drain the battery faster).
So it could, in part, be due to your location (distance from the nearest cell tower, buildings in the way, etc.).
Furthermore, a 3G radio uses more power to send data at the higher bandwidth.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8183",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: can't get HTML to display in Apple Mail signature I'm stumped. I cannot get the HTML I wrote to display! I followed all the steps properly with creating a webarchive file, renaming so that it shows up in Apple Mail. But then when I go back in and see the signature, it's there but it doesn't display the HTML ... it just displays the code!
I've tested the HTML code on a webpage, and it works just fine. I have my message format as Rich Text.
The code is:
<a href="http://www.tweetbars.com" ><img src="http://bar.tweetbars.com/azdesertfather.gif" /></a></center>
A: You don't specify the steps you used so in case you missed something, take a look at this page describing how to set up HTML mail signatures.
A: OK, I figured out the problem, thanks to someone on the Apple forum!
When I was typing out the file in TextEdit, I needed to use the setting Format > Make Plain Text (or use a pure text editor like Text Wrangler). That was messing up the whole process. Now it's working!
Here's that thread:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=13095810#13095810
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8185",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Why did my iPhone Notes stop syncing with Gmail? I just logged into Gmail and noticed that the last note to sync was from 6 days ago, even though I have newer notes on my iPhone.
When I try to test it now by deleting, updating, or adding a note, it does not sync with Gmail. I have 355 notes on the iPhone, and 350 in Gmail.
I seem to recall that after pressing the done button in the Notes application, the working indicator would appear showing that there is network activity (i.e. that it's syncing with Gmail). It no longer shows the spinner when I press "Done".
I tried restarting the phone to no avail. I tried deleting an email in Gmail in case there is a 350 limit, but that didn't help either. I also tried deleting notes on the iPhone so that it had less than 350 (in case the iPhone had a 350 limit), it didn't solve the problem.
I didn't change anything with the account setting on the iPhone nor on Gmail. I'm running an iPhone 4 with iOS 4.2.1. My iPhone is connected to the internet via Wi-Fi.
A: The problem is that Google's implementation of IMAP isn't really 100% IMAP, so it doesn't really support notes. I've been trying to get it to work for quite a while which ended up with me losing all my notes (although they may still be in the Google Mail archive somewhere).
I've actually given up trying to sync notes between my Mac/iPhone/Google and have gone for the Plain Text app which stores the notes on DropBox, this seems to work so much better. Now if only I could delete the Notes app from my iPhone.
A: I'm not sure what fixed it (restarting the phone? waiting a few days?), but now the sync is back to normal and I see the spinner icon whenever the notes are updated.
A: In GMail, I just removed my Notes label (dumping the prior notes into the general archive, probably a bad idea in retrospect not to give them a second label). In a bit, the Notes label was back, updated with notes.
I had this issue since April. This was attempted on iOS 7.1.1.
Data point: I had sublabels under Notes. Those sublabels have been there for a while, though.
A: For my iPod touch, I went into the account settings and switched off my gmail notes. Then, I went back in and switched it on again. Notes are synching again now.
Make sure you save any important notes that you have before doing this (cut and paste into an email draft?), because I just lost the last two months of notes that I had in there.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8188",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Tricks and usages of Spaces I think that Spaces can be a really nice tool to improve your day-to-day work.
I would gladly hear about the settings and usage of those virtual desktops (For instance : What's your logic behind the way you dispatches your apps between Spaces, in which order or direction (up, down, left, right ?), etc.)
I also gladly hear about the hidden tricks related to Spaces, and its usages with the other tools (The dock, Exposé, ...)
For instance I just noticed by chance that you can change an windows from one Space too another just by "pushing" it on the border of the screen for a few moment.
A: I find Spaces to be a very useful way to allow me to focus on specific activities without getting distracted. It's hardly a perfect feature, and I struggle with the strange Spaces bugs, too. But I've been tweaking my setup for a while now and it really works for me.
First, let's talk about the configuration. My approach is similar to mankoff's. I have a total of 9 Spaces and that seems to be the right number for me. I also assign apps to specific Spaces based on the kinds of activities I do there.
Here's how I've set up my 9 Spaces:
*
*Space 1: GTD (OmniFocus, Livescribe)
*Space 2: Email + Calendar (Mail, iCal, Google Voice Fluid Window)
*Space 3: Photos (Aperture)
*Space 4: Reading (Safari, Chrome for my daily RSS catchup)
*Space 5: Music (iTunes)
*Space 6: Social Networking (Twitter, mostly, but I often do all of my social networking reviews in a quick 20-minute session and will open some browser windows here to do it)
*Space 7: Financial (Quicken Essentials, browser page for Xero.com, the online accounting service I use for my business)
*Space 8: Utilities (1Password, CrashPlan, SuperDuper, etc.)
*Space 9: Working (An empty space I leave for whatever I'm working on)
Some apps I set to be available across every space, such as Skype. Others, such as the Finder, Safari or Chrome, are not assigned at all, and can appear in whatever space is currently active.
To really make Spaces work for me, here are some of the things I do.
*
*Use HyperSpaces. Hyperspaces is a fantastic utility that adds some of the features to Spaces that Apple should have built into the OS. There's lots of things it can do, but I use three things in particular. First, I use it to make every Space look different. I'm not a fan of distracting wallpaper, so I have chosen a simple background and then use Hyperspaces' ability to color them to apply a hue to each one. At a glance, I can see which Space I'm in. Green for Utilities, Purple for GTD, etc. I also name each Space and display it in the lower right corner of the desktop. I use the name from the list above. It's another simple visual clue as to where I am. The latest version can also show it in the Menu Bar icon, which is good, too, and has the benefit of not possibly being obscured by a window. Finally, I set the animation between Spaces to be very quick. I still like to have it on so I know I've switched a space, but I don't need a lot of fanfare when it happens, so I drag that slider way to the left.
*Alfred. Alfred is an excellent app launcher that I've started using in the past year or so. Being able to quickly launch or switch to an app is what prevents you from having to search through your Spaces, and Alfred is key to that for me. There's nothing magical about Alfred here, though, so any launcher will do: QuickSilver, Launchbar, etc.
*QuickSilver Triggers. Even though I use Alfred, I also run QuickSilver for the one thing Alfred cannot do: assign keyboard shortcuts to launch apps. QuickSilver calls them Triggers and I've set up a bunch. Without hunting through my Spaces, I can jump between Mail (trigger: ⌘OptionShiftM), iTunes (trigger: ⌘OptionShiftU) and Safari (trigger: ⌘OptionShiftS) in seconds.
*Keyboard Shortcuts. ⌘1–9 switches between Spaces, and I use this all the time to move not only between Spaces, but since the frontmost app gets activated when the Space appears, it's often how I switch between apps, too.
*Moving Windows. Sometimes a window will open inside the current Space, but I want it somewhere else. Happens all the time with Safari windows, for example. The fix is easy, though: just click and hold on the title bar of the window, then press the ⌘1–9 for the Space you want to move it to and zip, off it goes. Great way to keep your Spaces clean and clutter-free.
As I say up front, Spaces isn't perfect, but with some effort, I've managed to make it work for me. I hope that some of you find this helpful.
A: I too experimented with Spaces when I first got 10.6 and found it a little unweidly. I think I would prefer it more if I could "lock" myself to a space for a time. So that Cmd-Tab didn't jump around spaces, but instead only let me switch between Windows in my current space. The jumping around was a bit nauseating.
Now I run a 2-space setup. I have a work space and then I have a space where I throw stuff I don't really interact with. Like my VMWare Fusion player running a Linux machine I'm doing dev work on, it's over in the second space right now because I just ssh in to it from iTerm2. And I'll put remote desktop sessions in that second space -- stuff I'll visit occasionally and don't want cluttering up my main work space (because remote desktop, VNC session windows are annoyingly large).
But everything I'm interacting with (Mailplane, iTerm2, Chrome, Skype, TextMate) they're all on my primary space.
I do keep different backgrounds on each space so they're easier to identify when I'm Cmd-Tab'ing around and shifting spaces.
A: When I first got OS 10.5 I experimented with spaces, one for email/calendar/Skype etc, one for photography stuff, one for development stuff and one for everything else.
However I found it wasn't too easy to work with so went back to one desk top and used hot corners/Expose and Alt-Tab for application switching, personally I find this a lot easier to work with, but all you can do is try these things out.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8191",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: What's kern_sploit proccess that apears in my iPhone 4? After jailbreaking iPhone 4, I was noticed that some processes were added to the process list, like kern_sploit. What is this?
A: It's Greenpoison's exploit. It's legit. According to the GitHub source, Snowbreeze installs it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8193",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there somewhere I can write my name on iPod touch, for if I lost it? Where in my iPod Touch I can write my name and phone number, so if I lost it or it been stolen and found by the police (as I read that happened), someone could call me to go get it back?
A: No, but you can create an image that has your name and contact info on it, then use that as your lock screen wallpaper.
You could also create a note on the device or an "emergency/lost" contact in the address book, but both of those require you to not use a passcode to use the device. A wallpaper with contact info works even if the person who finds your iPod can't unlock it.
A: If you are really fussed about this then you can go to an engraver and get your name and phone number engraved on the back.
A: You can also install Find My iPod Touch if you have a 4th gen iPod Touch. I'm not sure if it works on earlier models, but it might.
Apple's page on Find My iPod Touch
A: I put a sticker on back containing my work contact information in large print. Easy to read even if the batteries are dead.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8196",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Where do you get games for the click wheel iPods? I've got an iPod classic, and I can't for the life of me find any of the games that work with it on the iTunes Store.
I know they are there, because I've seen them recently I just can't find them.
A: Open the iTunes store, click the triangle at the end of the App Store tab at the top, and choose iPod Click Wheel Games at the very bottom.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8198",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Entourage window resizing issue Could someone tell me how to retain the email window to the full page size eachtime I open entourage.?
When I open the new email window it opens in a small window, in then have to drag the window to use it comfortably.
I close down reataining these sizes and when I open the entourage later it always goes back to the small window!
It is driving me crazy?
A: It's most likely that your Entourage preferences file is corrupted in some fashion. Try this:
*
*Close Entourage.
*Navigate to ~/Library/Preferences/com.microsoft.Entourage.plist.
*Move the file to the Desktop.
*Open Entourage, resize the window to your preferred size. Entourage will automatically make a new preferences file.
*Close and open Entourage again to test that the change sticks.
If all is well, you can trash the original com.microsoft.Entourage.plist file from your Desktop.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8200",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Is there any way to see what OS X is doing when it's booting up when no chime is played?
Possible Duplicate:
How can I see the system status during boot?
I have had the hard drive in my iMac replaced and now I'm trying to restore it from my TimeMachine back up. I thought the TimeMachine back up was corrupt but maybe I'm just not patient enough, or I'm misunderstanding the restore process.
I'm able to restore successfully, but on reboot the machine shows me the white screen with the Apple logo and the spinner. I can hear some occasional sounds from the hard drive in the machine. It's been at this screen for a good hour now. The occasional hard drive sounds make me wonder if it's doing and fsck or similar operation on the drive before the system boots.
No chime has been played yet by the system. So the usual Cmd-V and Cmd-S solutions to see what it's doing or to boot to single user mode aren't working for me.
Is there any way to see what OS X is doing at boot time? I'm thinking something akin to the terminal window that modern Linux distros like CentOS can show you at boot time. The ones that let you see the step-by-step boot messages as they happen.
A: See Apple support document Mac OS X: How to start up in single-user or verbose mode
A: The system chimes after running the POST, but before loading the OS. If it's not making it to the chime, it's failing the POST and there's no activity to see, no matter what keys you press.
A: When you turn it on, hold ⌘+v for few seconds.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8201",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is the first boot after a full system restore from TimeMachine supposed to take a long time? I have had the hard drive in my iMac replaced and now I'm trying to restore it from my TimeMachine back up. I thought the TimeMachine back up was corrupt but maybe I'm just not patient enough, or I'm misunderstanding the restore process.
I'm able to restore successfully, but on reboot the machine shows me the white screen with the Apple logo and the spinner. I can hear some occasional sounds from the hard drive in the machine. The occasional hard drive sounds make me wonder if it's doing and fsck or similar operation on the drive before the system boots.
It's been at this screen for a good hour now.
I have not heard a chime (and have been in front of the machine working the entire time).
Is this just what happens after a TimeMachine restore or should it have booted at a near-normal speed?
A: Sounds like you have a problem. Have a look at this apple support document on what to do if this happens.
A: RESET THE SMC. HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WORKED FOR ME
This is how to reset SMC on most modern Mac laptops, none of which have a removable battery:
-Shutdown your MacBook Air / MacBook Pro
-Connect the power adapter to the Mac
-On the MacBook / Pro’s keyboard, hold down the Shift+Control+Option keys and the Power button at the same time
-Release all keys and the power button at the same time – the little light on the MagSafe adapter may change colors briefly to indicate the SMC has reset
-Boot your Mac as usual
A: I ran into the same issue on my MBP 2012 machine. Had an attempted dual-boot setup go south on me and re-format my entire drive, so even lost the recovery partition.
I attempted what @IanC described in his comment above - after booting into the internet recovery system and re-installing Mountain Lion (that's what I was offered by the recovery tool!), I did a first boot into the OS, but did not bother proceeding through the setup wizard. I rebooted into the now restored local recovery partition and did a Time Machine restore from my backup drive.
It appeared to complete successfully, but I had the same problem where the progress bar reached the end on the boot screen, but the machine never finished booting. No resetting of PRAM or SMC helped either.
In the end, I:
*
*Started from scratch again with the internet recovery
*Re-installed Mountain Lion from there
*Upgraded that to El Capitan
*Re-booted into the local recovery partition
*Restored from TM
Success!
One minor note is when performing the TM restore the second time, I selected the second last restore point rather than the last, just in case it would make a difference. I am assuming the El Capitan upgrade was the actual solution, but in the interests of completeness, I thought this worth mentioning also, in case it is materially significant.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8202",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How does Office 2008 for Mac store its Recent items? I don't have access to Office 2008, but require the information for a project I'm working on. I'm mainly interested in Word, Excel and Powerpoint.
This is the information I have gathered so far...
The preference file is: ~/Library/Preferences/com.microsoft.office.plist
The property keys take the form:
2008\File Aliases\{APP}{n}
2008\MRU Access Date\{APP}{n}
where {APP} represents an Office application, and {n} represents a number starting from 0.
The applications are represented by the following values:
MSWD (Word)
XCEL (Excel)
What value represents PowerPoint?
In the property list I've seen, the numbers represented by {n} range from 0-10 (11 items).
Is 10 the limit? or is this unrestrained?
Finally, I've noticed that Office 2011 does not add its Recent Items to the Apple System menu:
Apple -> Recent Items
Is Office 2008 the same?
A: At least on my machine, this is what I'm seeing:
*
*PPT3 does appear to be the PowerPoint value
*I have lots of items. MSWD0, MSWD1, but then also MSWD99, MSWD109, etc.
*Interestingly enough, it looks like PowerPoint adds items to Apple -> Recent Items, but Word and Excel do not. Which seems crazy, but that's what's happening on my machine.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8207",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to enter in the apple symbol not in a web browser? How can I enter in the enter in the Apple symbol () in an application such as text edit?
IIRC, Safari automatically converts this symbol when it sees the text &apple;.
Update: Does it exist in the Edit > Special Characters... list?
A: Neil's ⇧ + ⌥ + K might work in (presumably) the US, but the exact combination is keyboard layout specific. In addition, some keyboard layouts — Thai, for example — might not even have the symbol available.
E.g. I'm using a Finnish keyboard layout and is typed simply by ⌥ + A.
To find this and other symbol shortcuts, you can enable the keyboard & symbol menulet from Preferences → Keyboard and use the menulet to open a virtual keyboard. Pressing any modifier key, or modifier key combination, will change the keys on the virtual keyboard accordingly. For example, here is how the virtual keyboard looks with Finnish layout while option/alt is being pressed:
To find the from Special characters menu the fastest way is to type f8ff to the search box (this is its unicode-code; the hasn't any other name assigned).
Other way is to change the view to glyphs or to code tables[1] from the drop-down list and browse the for the symbol manually — but this is not exactly user-friendly or fast, unless you know where to look for.
[1]: I don't know for sure if these are exact translations as my UI is also in Finnish. However, the items are (respectively) last and third-last in the list.
A: ⇧+⌥+K will type the Apple logo.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8212",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Does PlainText transmit data securely? Does the iPhone App PlainText transmit data securely (i.e. does it use SSL?), or it there a risk of my data being read by third parties when I sync with dropbox?
A: On dropbox's web site, it says:
All transmission of file data and metadata occurs over an encrypted channel (SSL).
Furthermore, data send over the 3G cellular connection uses a 3G over-the-air encryption protocol (which will likely be unencrypted for forwarding to the internet past the cell tower).
A: I emailed the company, and according to them:
PlainText syncs using the provided Dropbox SDK, which specifies
SSL/https
... meaning that everything is transmitted securely.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8214",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: What Math/Calculator software is available for the iPod touch? I just saw Pi Cubed, and now I'm thinking, what Math/Calculator apps are available for iPod Touch?
A: The best calculators for iOS:
*
*Wolfram Alpha
*PCalc
*Calcbot
*Soulver
A: I use wolfram alpha. its a great app for computing basically anything.
A: If you love the old-school reverse-polish-notation (RPN) HP calculators, like I do, then check out i41CX. It's an iOS emulator for the HP-41CX calculator, and is very faithful (except for having way more memory than the original): for example, synthetic programming is supported. I have not found an HP-48 emulator for iOS yet.
I have i41CX+ installed on my (second-generation) iPod Touch. It's probably overkill for the uses I have for a calculator these days, but it works the way I expect a calculator to work.
A: I use (and rate) Missing Calculator, although by the looks of things it isn't in the App store (UK) any more..
| {
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"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8221",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to "synchronize now" the ipod touch with google calendar? My ipod touch synchronized well with google calendar. But I would like a "synchronize now" button, is there something like that?
A: It's possible that, for some reason, push can't go through. In those situations, your iPhone will fall back on the fetch schedule. Go to Settings->Mail, Contacts, Calendars->Fetch New Data and make sure that you select the most frequent Fetch, which is 15 minutes. It's certainly a far cry from the instantaneity of push, but you shouldn't have to wait more than 15 minutes for stuff to come through.
Also, you should check under Advanced just in case your schedule for your Google account was changed for some reason - it should be "Push".
A: Have you followed the instructions here? My understanding is that if you set up your google account for 'Push' then your calendars should be synced immediately as long as you have an internet connection at the time.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/8222",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
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