Newsgroup: it.hobby.motociclismo
Titolo: Tecnica di guida

Salve,
dato che sto per comprarmi la prima moto (probabilmente kawasaki ER-5)
ho molti dubbi su come debba essere condotta correttamente.
Non ho il classico zio-insegnante quindi chiedo a voi.
Come si deve dosare il freno anteriore/postreriore ?
ho sentito dire che si usa prevalentemente l'anteriore, ma solo quando
la moto e' in rettilineo.
Occorre scalare le marce piu' o meno di quanto non si faccia in
macchina ?
E' meglio scaldare il motore da fermo prima di partire ?
altri consigli li lascio alla vostra fantasia.
Ciao.

... magari anche su strada bagnata.
Concordo, per me che ho iniziato tardi ad andare in moto non e' stato
subito facile intuire il limite di bloccaggio dell'anteriore.
Ciao.
Umberto. Ex ZX9R, ma tra un po'....

 
.... e buttiamoci nel thread del mese.
All'ultimo CMR di Rapallo, mi hai fatto venire i sudori freddi in un paio
di curve, entrando corretta e poi, inspiegabilmente, frenando di colpo,
raddrizzando scomponendoti ecc. ecc..Io ti seguivo da vicino e quasi ti
tampono.
Se col freno posteriore non sei più che attento, te lo ritrovi bloccato,
dato inoltre che la sensibilità del piede è di molto inferiore rispetto
alla mano;ha quindi, a mio parere, un utilizzo equilibrante più che
rallentante.
Lo stesso vale evidentemente con l'anteriore. Hai il vantaggio di
"sentirlo" molto di più, non solo in termini di sensibilità, ma anche di
equilibrio. 
In quanto al fatto che la moto tenda a raddrizzare, è vero, ma sei tu che
devi dominarla fisicamente.
Promettendo di non seguirti più da vicino nelle prossime :-))))))))
-- 
  V        V
Luca & Isa
line...@mbox.vol.it
' L'auto rende grassi mentalmente e pigri fisicamente '

altri consigli li lascio alla vostra fantasia.
direi che il fatto di cominciare andando tranquillo, non può che far
bene al rodaggio del motore e del pilota ;-)
'stinger'
THE ONLY WAY FORWARD
Ducati 748 Biposto
XXXXX  X   XX XX XX XXXXX
 X  XX X   XX XXX   XX
 X  XX X   XX XX X  XXX
XXXXX   XXXX  XX  X XXXXX (my only love)
Andrea Peretti
e-mail 
sti...@mbox.vol.it
 (fino a che non me la cambiano in 
tin.it
)
E ricordatevi che nella vita c'è chi può e chi non può...
IO PUO'

 la moto e' in rettilineo.
So' che molti saranno in disaccordo, comunque quanto segue e' cio' che
viene insegnato ai corsi di moto in Svizzera, da alcuni anni. (prima
si insegnava a frenare in curva anche con il freno posteriore)
Premetto che l'effetto del freno anteriore e' di gran lunga superiore
a quello posteriore. Consiglio di provare a frenare da 40km/h a 0km/h
una volta con il solo freno anteriore e una con il solo posteriore,
poi confrontate la distanza occorsa per fermarsi. (circa l'80% della
forza frenante viene dal freno anteriore, mentre il solo 20% da quello
posteriore!)
Sui rettilinei usare sempre tutti e due i freni, dosare comunque
l'anteriore che non si blocchi. Se il freno posteriore si blocca poco
importa.
In curva ASSOLUTAMENTE non toccare il freno posteriore! Cio' e' dovuto
al fatto che sul freno posteriore si ha una sensibilita' molto minore,
dovuto al fatto che questo freno si aziona con il piede. Cio' puo'
portare al bloccaggio della ruota posteriore (specialmente in una
situazione improvvisa)... il che porta quasi sicuramente ad una caduta
... sempre che non ci si chiami Max Biagi.
Quindi in curva usare sempre esclusivamente il freno anteriore. Il
freno anteriore e' molto piu' controllabile e si puo' quindi evitare
facilmente che la ruota anteriore si blocchi. 
Il modo migliore per prendere confidenza con il freno anteriore e' di
andare su una strada non asfaltata, e provare a frenare esclusivamente
con il freno anteriore cercando di bloccare la ruota anteriore per dei
brevissimi attimi e rilasciare subito il freno. 
Bisognerebbe comunque esercitarsi regolarmente (almeno una volta
all'anno) a fare delle frenate di emergenza (dai 50km/h a zero)
... magari anche su strada bagnata.
Spero ti sia potuto essere d'aiuto!
Ciao
-- Roberto Bardin (DR650SE)
PS: un link sulla sicurezza
http://home.t-online.de/home/Hans.Schmalacker/know_fah.htm
    purtroppo e' in tedesco ...

Ciao.
Frenata, 80 percento anteriore, 20 posteriore (su strada pulita e
asciutta).
Scaldare non da fermo, i primi chilometri sotto i 3000 giri.
Le marce come in macchina.
I primi sei mesi vai piano.
Ciao.
@@@@@@@ musax @@@@@@@

In curva ASSOLUTAMENTE non toccare il freno posteriore! Cio' e' dovuto
Falso! Per me e' vero il contrario ;)


ho molti dubbi su come debba essere condotta correttamente.
Ohi, ohi... il thread del mese!


 I primi sei mesi vai piano.
Vai piano SEMPRE. Cioe': vai sempre piano secondo il tuo giudizio,
e' il tuo guidizio che si adattera' alle tue capacita' ed esperienze,
e, dopo un po' di tempo ti accorgerai che il tuo 'piano' e' in effetti
piuttosto svelto.
Se provi ad andare 'forte', e ti rendi conto che stai tirando, sappi
che stai facendo affidamento sulla fortuna e sui riflessi in modo
massiccio. 
Qualche volta accade a chiunque. Di norma non succede nulla di male.
Ma la percentuale di rischio aumenta molto, e sui grandi numeri
passare da 0.1% a 1.0% fa una enorme differenza!
Ciao!
P.S. Un saluto a tutti.
-- 
Luigi Sgro                  GPZ 600   
address: via Shelley 7 9    phone:   +39 10 3772118   
         16148 GENOVA       e-mail:  
gi...@mc.village.it
         ITALY

 
Ero anch'io della tua idea prima dei corsi che ho fatto ... ma fatto
sta' che una moto che si raddrizza e' sempre piu' controllabile di un
freno posteriore bloccato. Uno, su una vecchia BMW stile R65, e' sempre
confrontato con questo problema e non mi pare un grosso problema, la
tieni giu' col manubrio. 
Inoltre, in una situazione di panico, se sei abituata ad usare il freno
posteriore in curva, lo userai di istinto ... e ciao... per questo a noi
dicevano di abituarsi a non tenere neanche il piede sopra il freno
durante una curva ... solo cosi' sei sicura che non lo userai in una
situazione di panico. Perche' e' proprio in una situazione di panico che
si vola via!
Un altro consiglio che ci davano ... ma tieni ben conto solo in casi del
tutto eccezionali, cioe' quando pensi proprio di essere troppo, troppo
lungo e di andare fuori curva comunque, piega, piega piu' che puoi e non
toccare quasi i freni... di solito si' puo' piegare molto, ma molto di
piu' di quello che si fa' abitualmente. C'e' naturalmente il rischio che
dopo perdi tenuta ,... ma come detto ... SOLO IN CASI ECCEZIONALI! 
Ciao a tutti
-- Roberto Bardin(DR650SE)

 In curva ASSOLUTAMENTE non toccare il freno posteriore!
 
Io in curva (solo se serve chiaramente),  do' una toccatina 
all'integrale (che per chi non lo sapesse sulle guzzi 
aziona contemporaneamente il freno anterione ed il posteriore) 
e vi assicuro che il risultato e' ottimo, la moto non si scompone. 
Toccare solo l'anteriore  me la raddrizza troppo e il posteriore da
solo non posso azionarlo.
	Ciao
		Loris 
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Loris Marcovati                     phone    +39 2 70004850-44
C.U. S.r.l.                         fax      +39 2 70004853
Via Reina  35                       e-mail   
Loris.M...@cu.mi.it
I-20133 Milano - Italy              
http://www.cu.mi.it

 solo non posso azionarlo.
Sono d'accordo con te, infatti immagino che sara' calibrato in modo tale
che la ruota dietro non si blocchi prima di quella davanti. Se poi uno
ha l'ABS dovrebbe avere ancora meno problemi.
Ciao
-- Roberto

 
Soprattutto frenando in ogni caso prima della curva, anche piu' del
dovuto e non toccando i freni in curva ... tanto dopo la curva, con il
rapporto potenza-peso che ha una moto non c'e' nessun problema per
riprendere la velocita' di 'crociera'.  Per quanto riguarda quei
centesimi di secondi persi ... lasciateli a chi corre in pista, e' il
loro mestiere.
;-)
-- Roberto Bardin

http://motorcycle.com/mo/mcnews/safe2.html
==========================================
                      Safety Bits: High-Speed Steering
How To Make Yourself a Safer Rider, Part Two
By Mark Yager 
yag...@islandnet.com
Editor's Note: This is Part Two in a series of safety articles by Mark
Yager. A long-time motorcycle enthusiast, Mark is currently an
instructor at
the Canada Safety Council.
Steering a motorcycle is fairly straightforward, right? It may seem that
way, but as you turn for a corner there are a lot more things happening
than
you probably realize. Being able to turn your bike aggressively and
avoid
running into that car that just pulled out in front of you largely
depends
on what you know about these mysterious forces. Read on....
Physics 101
Above a speed of about 20 to 30 km/h (15-20 mph), the motorcycle's
wheels
act like gyroscopes. These spinning masses of wheel and tire combine to
create a gyroscopic force -- if you've ever held a spinning bicycle
wheel in
your hand and felt how difficult it is to "steer" it, you'll understand.
So
how do we overcome this force to get our bike to turn?
We don't.
Use the Force...
If you've ever played with a gyroscope, you'll remember that pushing
forward
on the left end of the axle didn't result in the wheel turning to the
right.
Instead, thanks to a force called gyroscopic precession which redirects
the
force 90 degrees in the direction of rotation, the wheel actually leaned
to
the left, rotating on an axis around the center of the wheel. Your
motorcycle works the same way. By turning the handlebars to the right,
you
are effectively inputting the same force we used in our example. Trying
to
push the spinning wheel to the right causes the wheel, and the rest of
the
bike attached to it, to lean to the left. This is called
counter-steering.
Turn the bars right, and you lean left. It is the only way a motorcycle
steers at any speed above walking speeds. Those of you saying "No way,
dude,
I never do it that way," are wrong. And this is why so many
motorcyclists
actually steer into and accident -- they try and turn right to avoid an
incident by turning the front wheel to point to the right. This, in
turn,
steers them left, straight into the accident. So whether you realize it
or
not, you are doing "it," better known as counter-steering.
When the bike is at a desired lean angle, ease up on the bars, and the
bike
will remain there assuming the tire profiles aren't working against the
bike
and trying to stand it up. If you let up on the throttle, the bike will
turn
in, and conversely, adding throttle will make the bike run wider. To
straighten the bike back up, add a smooth combination of throttle and
reverse steering input. If you are in a left hand turn, turn the bars
farther to the left, and the bike will stand up.
Some people ask how hard to push. Please understand that this is not a
sharp
jab at the bar. It is a smooth, steady pressure with the key word being
smooth. The higher the speed at which the bike is traveling, the more
gyroscopic effect there is, therefore you will need to push harder. This
is
why road racers work on upper body strength so much.
Why Counter-Steering?
Again, we cannot stress this point enough: Imagine yourself cruising
down
the highway on a beautiful spring day. Suddenly you see (insert your
worst
nightmare here) in the road, covering the right two-thirds of your lane.
If
you do not consciously understand and use counter-steering, you will
probably push on the right bar in an attempt to steer left like you
would on
a slow moving bicycle or in a car where you steer left to go left.
Pushing
on the right will steer you directly into the object. The correct action
here would be to push on the left bar and steer away from the obstacle.
So
remember: "Push left, turn left. Push right, turn right." Repeat this to
yourself over and over while you ride. Once you get the hang of it,
counter-steering will become instinctive -- your body probably knows how
to
do it, it's just your mind that is lagging. Understanding the principles
behind counter-steering will make you smoother and give you a better
feeling
of control over your environment. It may also save your life. Like any
safety technique, it only works if you practice it. Unless the action is
second nature, you will return to your old habits during an emergency.
So,
practice, practice, practice.

http://motorcycle.com/mo/mcnews/safe3.html
==========================================
SafetyBits: Braking
Make To Make Yourself a Safer Rider, Part Three
By Mark Yeager
There are a lot of misconceptions about a motorcycle's brakes: Many
riders
think that they know how to brake, yet they have not even scratched the
surface of the braking capability of their motorcycle.
THEM'S THE BRAKES
Like many other techniques in the motorcycle world, effective braking
takes
some understanding of the mechanics involved. There are two types of
motorcycle brakes -- the first is a drum brake and the second a disc
brake.
Naturally, there are advantages and disadvantages to both types;
BRAKE
                PRO                             CON
DRUM            Sealed against water/dust       Poor heat dissipation
                Predictable at low speeds       Low power at high speed
DISC            Good heat dissipation           Open to
dust/water/debris
                'Grabby' at low speed           Smooth and powerful at
high speeds
If you took a look at part one of this series (Slow Speed Riding), you
noticed that I advised that you not use the front brake during low
(walking
speed) maneuvers. This is especially true if your bike has a disc front
brake, because the brake has a tendency to grab or stop suddenly at very
low
speeds, therefore upsetting your balance and causing (aargh!) a dab
(foot
down).
Your bike will most likely have discs front and rear, or a disc
front/drum
rear. Older and smaller bikes will have drums at both ends. Most
manufacturers have gone to what is known as a "triple disc" setup (dual
disc
on the front, single disc on the rear). On modern bikes (past 1980 or
so),
front brakes are always designed to be stronger than the rear. If that
makes
you nervous, read on and find out why they're made that way...
POWER OF A DIFFERENT SORT
The front brake is probably the most debated control of a motorcycle. If
any
of you out there don't use your front brake, this column will change
your
riding forever. The techniques I am about to talk about are for normal
riding procedures -- you know, around town, cruising down the highway,
that
sort of riding. (If you want to see how to use the brakes in
ultra-low-speed
maneuvers, see article 1 of this series.)
It is true that the front brake provides 70 to 100 percent of the
stopping
power of a motorcycle. To explain this wonderful phenomenon, let's go
back
to physics class: We have all looked at sportbikes in the recent years.
The
back tire is wider than most small cars' while the front tire stays
relatively narrow. Why? When you are accelerating (in a straight line
for
the sake of clarity), the bike's weight -- which is normally biased
toward
the front, offering it more traction than the rear -- transfers to the
back
of the bike. If you have too small a tire 'footprint', the power will
overcome the available traction and the back wheel will spin. If you
doubt
this, take a look at a motorcycle drag race. The front wheel doesn't
touch
down for 1/8th of a mile. This is affectionately known as a wheelie. The
same principle applies when you are braking (though in reverse). As you
apply the brakes (front or rear), the weight of the bike and rider
transfers
forward and eventually onto the front wheel. This is why a bike's front
end
dives when you brake. The amount of weight transfer depends on the
weight of
the bike and it's load, as well as the amount of braking power applied
to
the bike. The harder you brake, the more suddenly the weight transfers
forward. However, all that weight must come from somewhere. It comes
from,
you guessed it, the bike. While the front wheel and suspension are busy
doing their stuff, the back wheel quietly gets lighter and lighter. Now
we
find out why front brakes are so important. All that weight is
transferring
to the front wheel and off the back, so we have more traction on the
front,
and therefore, more braking power. And at the same time, less traction
and
potential braking power on the back wheel. With a good sport bike, it is
possible to get 100% of the bike's weight on the front wheel so that the
back wheel lifts right off the ground as the bike stops. This kind of
reverse wheelie is generally only accomplished by skilled riders on a
closed
track. Trying this on the street can have serious repercussions if you
goof
it up! This trick is known as an "endo" or "stoppie."
LOCK IT AND LOSE IT
Braking in normal situations is fairly straightforward. Unless you are
on
deep gravel or some other really slippery stuff, use both brakes when
stopping or slowing. When my right fingers go to the front brake lever,
my
foot automatically goes onto the rear brake. Practice using more front
brake
than rear. If you are stopping your bike primarily with the back brake,
you
are missing the point. The front brake holds the primary stopping power.
Use
the back brake as kind of an accessory. One nice thing about the rear
brake
is that it provides some degree of stability when braking. The key here
is a
balance between front and rear, with about 70% of the emphasis on the
front.
Brakes are not a sudden thing. Both brakes must be applied smoothly.
That
doesn't mean slowly, just don't go grabbing your front brake or jabbing
your
rear brake -- you lock a wheel and could spit yourself off. By squeezing
the
lever, it gives your brain time to judge the amount of input you are
giving
your bike, and what the bike is telling you about that input. Grabbing
the
brake is equivalent to having a switch that controlled our brakes rather
than a lever. Imagine your brakes fully off or fully on with no
in-between.
What a nightmare! That's what it's like if you grab your brake. So you
must
be smooth.
By the way, almost of the power in your fingers is in the first two.
There
is very little power in your 3rd and 4th (little) fingers. So, use all 4
fingers when you brake -- this is a matter of preference with most
riders,
but it's my opinion that new riders should use all four. As you become
more
experienced, try using the first two fingers -- once you're good at it,
this
can offer you slightly more control of the motorcycle since you've still
got
two finger wrapped around the bar to make steering inputs.
At any rate, if you have been around motorcycles for any length of time,
you
have undoubtedly heard someone say that you shouldn't use the front
brake
because it'll lock with little provocation and you'll be horizontal in a
hurry. Brake lockup is, in case you had any doubts, a bad thing. We can
live
with the rear wheel locked for a while, but lock the front and you'll be
down. The front is one of those dump-now-and-ask-questions-later brakes.
I
have seen some front brake lockups recovered, but only by top-notch
riders
on excellent bikes in a controlled environment. Even then, the lockup
was
only long enough to get a chirp from the tire then he recovered. If you
do
find yourself in a stressful situation where you've locked up either
wheel,
don't panic! You can recover if 1) You're lucky and 2) When you do let
off
the brakes, ease them out -- don't do anything sudden, but you do want
to
get the wheel(s) unlocked as quickly as possible -- and make sure
everything's pointed straight when you ease off the brakes. This is what
causes so many crashes: People panic, lock up the brakes and either
lowside,
or they totally let go of the brakes and bike "hooks up" and straightens
itself out and flicks the rider off. Again, make sure that the bike is
straight up and that both wheels are pointed forward and you've a
(admittedly slight unless you're a really good roadracer) good change to
save it. Another point about locked wheels: If you lock the rear wheel
and
it starts to "come around" on you, ease off the rear brake and it'll
come
"back in."
YOU DESERVE A BRAKE TODAY
Okay now I have you thoroughly confused. Use the brake, don't use that
brake. Use the front brake, don't abuse it. Generally, the front tire
will
take quite a lot of abuse before it locks up, and it'll warn you before
it
does. Each bike is different, so it's important to practice this on your
own
bike. Maximum braking occurs just before the wheel locks (how nice).
This is
called 'threshold braking'. When we teach emergency braking, we can tell
when a student has mastered threshold braking because the tire will
leave a
very light 'gray' (skid) mark. If it's black, they've locked it. So, the
object of the game is to get the wheel as close to lock as possible
without
actually locking it. Boy, what fun. If the rear wheel locks up, the bike
will lose a bit of it's stopping power because of the lack of traction,
but
more importantly, the back wheel will tend to drift from side to side.
If
you are braking in a straight line when this happens, it's not a big
deal
(feels a little exciting at times, though). However if you're in a
corner
when this happens, prepare to pay for some plastic. Again, if the rear
wheel
locks, release the rear brake slowly and smoothly. If you just pop off
the
brake and your wheel is at all drifting to the side, the wheel will
catch
the road suddenly and you'll highside the bike. Not very likely but it
can
happen.
Okay, that covered the easy one, now onto the front brake. A number of
things happen when you start to apply the front brake. First, the shocks
will compress as the bike does that weight-transfer thing. This, thank
goodness, puts weight and extra traction on the front wheel. At this
point,
you are doing normal braking. If you continue to squeeze the brake
lever,
the front brake will get more and more weight on it. Eventually, most of
the
bike's weight will be on the front wheel. At this point, you are fairly
close to threshold braking. If you continue to squeeze, and front wheel
will
start to complain. This is where you must be familiar with how your bike
gives you input. We've found that on most bikes as you approach lockup,
the
front wheel will start to squirm. The rider get a vibrating or light
shaking
sensation through the handlebars -- it's not a violent motion, rather,
it is
quite subtle. If you feel this, you are at maximum braking. Do not
squeeze
the lever any more or you'll be rubber side up! This sensation is caused
by
the tire locking for fractions of a second then rotating again, and the
squirming is the tire sliding just a fraction of an inch or so, then
regaining it's grip, then sliding again. If it didn't regain it's grip,
it'd
go into full lock and, well, you can fill in the blanks. You can now see
how
close to lockup perfect braking is.
WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY....ABS
I have to be really honest here. I've never ridden a bike with ABS. I
have,
however, practiced techniques with our local police department. We do
some
of their training and they let us observe and ride with them when they
do
the fun stuff. They ride BMW K100RT Police bikes with ABS. We were
practicing high-speed emergency braking in the rain once, and the
minimum
speed to reach before braking was 80Km/H (about 50mph). The ABS bikes
were
doing pretty well, but we were consistently out braking them on our
personal
non-ABS bikes. ABS is not the end-all be-all of brakes. I think they are
one
of the biggest advancements in motorcycling in the last 10 years, but in
the
same breath, though, they are not meant to replace rider skill. ABS is
designed to sense traction problems and react faster than a rider can.
If
you are threshold braking in a straight line and run over a patch of
gravel
(or water/oil, etc.), the front wheel will probably lock because of the
sudden loss of traction. You just cannot sense (unless you see it coming
and
back off the brake) that loss and react quickly enough. This is where
ABS
really shines...in the real world. Sure, we were outbraking ABS bikes in
a
controlled environment, but had there been a patch of oil on our braking
path, we non-ABSers might have been toast. ABS is a wonderful invention
that
has and will save many lives. As with most other things, it is great at
what
it is designed for but don't count on it to fill in the gaps where your
skill level sags. It should compliment your skills, not replace them.
I've ridden ABS-equipped bikes and found that I can stop faster with the
ABS
disabled. But that's only from all the track time we get playing with
new
bikes and roadracing -- so if you don't race and can afford the extra
two
grand ABS tacks onto the price of a new bike, get it. You won't be
disappointed. --Brent Plummer, Editor
Again, please don't be afraid of the front brake. I have been riding for
quite a while, and have talked to literally thousands of riders of all
sorts
over the years. I can probably count on one hand the number of
first-hand
accounts of a front brake lock up that I have heard. Treat your front
brake
like a powerful engine; once you get used to it you're not afraid of it,
but
bite it and it'll bite back. Brakes are your friend, and if you practice
these techniques they will save your life at least once in your
motorcycle
career.


Grazie ;) lo so anch'io che basterebbe piegare di piu'! Il mio era un
consiglio da imbranata a imbranato.


E' meglio scaldare il motore da fermo prima di partire ?
Si, ma non come certi che scaldano i diesel per 30 min. prima di partire.
Una volta acceso, lo si lascia girare un po' al minimo e con piccoli colpetti di
gas. (uno/due minuti bastano). Poi si può partire, ma con calma, senza
"strippare" subito le marce. per evitare di fare l'arrosto di prima mattina, poi
si aumenta il ritmo gradualmente (rimanendo nei limiti della prudenza e del buon
senso, anche dopo che avrai 300.000 km nelle ruote, mi raccomando).
Calcola che non è solo il motore che si deve scaldare, ma anche il cambio, la
catena, le gomme, gli ammotrtizzatori, oltre OVVIAMENTE AL PILOTA.
Una ultima considerazione. Ma l' M600 proprio non ti va giù? Chiedi a Massimo
Fattorusso se non può andar bene anche per un principiante. Non perchè lui lo
sia, ma solo perchè possiede un M600 ed è sicuramente più indicato di me a
parlarne, visto che io la guido solo saltuariamente (quando un mio amico mi fà
la grazia di prestarmela).
Enrico Manna (Roma)
FZ 750 ...per ora
enr...@ats.it

 
In cima ai 4 file ci sono gli indirizzi ... comunque ecco l'indirizzo:
http://motorcycle.com/mo/mcnews/safe1.html
riposto qui di seguito il tutto in un file unico perche' mi sono accorto 
che mi e' stato 'scartabellato' da Netscape. Spero che questa volta vada
meglio.
Ciao
-- roberto
http://motorcycle.com/mo/mcnews/safe1.html
==========================================
Safety Bits: Low-Speed Riding
How To Make Yourself a Safer Rider, Part 1
By Mark Yager 
yag...@islandnet.com
Editor's Note: This is Part One in a series of safety articles by Mark
Yager. A long-time motorcycle enthusiast, Mark is currently an
instructor at the Canada Safety Council.
Slow Speed Riding
As much as we enjoy ripping down smooth, curvy roads devoid of traffic
and radar guns, we all know that the majority of our time is spent
plodding through urban areas at low speeds: Trips to the mall, off to
the grocery store, down the street to the v ideo rental store, all
clustered with traffic and "cages" (also known as automobiles).
We deal with slow speed riding daily yet so few riders are adequately
trained to properly deal with it. So we must remember that, as
important as high-speed riding skills are, we can all benefit from
slow-speed survival techniques as well.
My definition of slow-speed riding is about walking pace, and it's
easy when you know a few tricks.
Proper posture
Many riders are tempted to use body parts as balancing weights when
riding slowly. Usually, this involves moving a knee away from the bike
to counterbalance in a slow turn. If you do find yourself doing this,
be prepared: Proper seating posture is ver y important. Sit
comfortably on the bike and keep your knees against the tank. Try not
to move around too much as this transfers weight around and provides
steering input to the bike. And keep your feet on the footpegs.
Sighting
Failure to look ahead is one of the most common errors with slow speed
riding. A good way to practice this is setting up cones about four
yards (meters) apart and slaloming though them. Vary the distance
between cones if your bike can't make it. As yo u are going between
two cones, you should be looking at the path you want to take in the
next gate, which should be about 3.0 to 5.0 yards (about 3-5 meters)
ahead.  Many riders look 3.0 to 5.0 feet (about 1.0 to 1.6 meters)
ahead which causes them to be shaky. Looking the proper distance ahead
gives your mind enough time to plan a route, so you don't have to make
so many last-minute corrections. Force yourself to look far ahead. Try
it, you'll be amazed how this technique will improve your slow-speed
rid ing.
The Front Brake
Under normal conditions, the front brake is an invaluable tool for
keeping your bike under control. However, at very slow speeds while
the front wheel is turned, the front brake can be too strong to
provide a smooth stop. I tend not to use the front brake at very low
speeds. The rear has more than enough power to stop you at these
speeds, just be careful not to shift around to get your foot on the
brake pedal (if it isn't already, as it should be), or you'll upset
the bike's balance.
Clutch Slipping
Another major key to slow speed control is the clutch. Most
motorcycles have wet clutches, which means that the friction plates
are bathed in oil to keep them cool. This means that slipping a clutch
is not a problem for a short time. I have over 50,0 00 miles on my
bike -- the clutch has never been rebuilt and still works fine, even
though I occasionally "slip" it. When riding at a speed that is slower
than your idle will let you go, control your speed by pulling in the
clutch past the friction point to disengage the engine from the rear
wheel. The friction point is the point that the clutch just starts to
'grab' and transfer power to the rear wheel. When you feel unsteady
because you are going so slowly you feel you almost have to put your
foot down, then let out the clutch a bit to speed up until you're
steady. You can do this for quite some time without hurting the
clutch.
By putting these techniques into effect, you will ride at low speeds
better than 80 percent of other riders. I talk to police officers and
other life-long riders who have never heard of these tricks, and many
come back and tell me how much they have helpe d them.
The best way to learn any riding techniques, including these, is to
take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation or Canada Safety Council rider's
course. They will increase your confidence and skill
immeasurably. Contact your local Motor Vehicle registration of fice
for local contact numbers.
http://motorcycle.com/mo/mcnews/safe2.html
==========================================
  Safety Bits: High-Speed Steering

By Mark Yager 
yag...@islandnet.com


Physics 101

We don't.
Use the Force...

wheel actually leaned to the left, rotating on an axis around the



Why Counter-Steering?

http://motorcycle.com/mo/mcnews/safe3.html
==========================================
SafetyBits: Braking

By Mark Yeager

THEM'S THE BRAKES

BRAKE
 PRO    CON













it. Boy, what fun. If the rear wheel locks up, the bike will lose a


WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY....ABS



Safety Bits: Foul Weather Gear
How To Make Yourself a Safer Rider, Part 4
By Mark Yager
Editor's Note: This is Part Four in a series of safety articles by Mark
Yager. A long-time motorcycle enthusiast, Mark is currently an
instructor at
the Canada Safety Council.
Adverse Weather Riding Gear
September. Get the kids back to school, pay off the Visa from that
annual vacation, watch the Christmas marketing arise, and put the bike
away until next May. What?!
If you have been around the motorcycle world for any length of time,
you have probably found that there are two types of riders when it
comes to dealing with the weather. Those who ride during the summer
and those of us who ride year-round. Riding for twelve months of the
year is not possible in all areas of North America or the world, but I
happen to live in a place where the bike goes off the road around
December 20 and back on about January 5. Regardless of how long your
riding season is, you must be prepared for inclememt weather when you
ride. Proper cold weather gear is absolutely essential if you want to
stay warm and dry (and therefore safe!).
Undergarments
Let's start from the inside and work out. In dressing for cold
weather, begin with long undies. Make sure you get a set that is long
enough in the torso and legs so that they don't ride up when you bend
over to grab the bars -- that leads to the dreaded
cold-draft-up-the-back syndrome. Next, a long sleeve shirt and warm
pants. Of course, don't forget warm socks. It's very easy to forget
about your feet until they freeze. Now we come to one of the best
inventions in the world of motorcycling next to front brakes. That is,
of course, the electric vest. For those of you who have never worn
one, an electric vest is a lightly quilted vest that plugs into your
bike's electrical system. The better models have a rheostat that
controls the amount of heat produced by the vest as well as an on/off
switch. They usually cost around $100 and are worth every penny. The
only time I ride without my vest is on the sunny summer days. All
other times, I have it with me, just in case. Some manufacturers also
have vests that have a high collar so your neck won't get
cold. Electric chaps are also available, as are electric handlebar
grips.
Jackets
The next level of protection is a good jacket. A high quality,
comfortable jacket is one of the most sought-after accessories for any
experienced motorcyclist. We put a lot of demands on our jackets, and
the manufacturers have caught on to this fact by responding with a
versatile product line that does more than just cover. If you can only
afford one, pick a jacket that is, above all, tough. If you go down,
something is going to have to be sacrificed to the pavement, and it
may as well be some other hide than your own. Jackets must also be
comfortable. When trying one on, make sure you sit on your bike with
it on before deciding whether it fits or not. Be careful that the
jacket is long enough in the torso and the arms. A jacket that is too
thin or bulky will flap and balloon in the wind which will make you
tired and reduce your body's ability to keep you warm. The best
jackets have a zip-out quilted lining for winter, and venting for
summer. Also look for a high collar that will keep the wind out of
your neck area, and ensure the collar snaps or zips up all the way to
the top. Little features are important, too. Things like double cuffs
so wind doesn't get up around your wrists, and a good wind-flap over
the main zipper.
A very good alternative is an Aerostitch suit. These are one or two
piece suits that are made out of cordura nylon. These are probably the
best suits built for motorcyclists. The one piece will run you around
$640 and the two piece around $680 (US). They feature at least a dozen
removable T- foam armour pads, lots of sizes at at least 15 colours.
Get one if you can afford one, if not then buy a good leather jacket.
If you can't afford leather, then don't ride until you can.
Pants
Insulated pants or chaps are a very good investment if you do any sort
of cool weather riding. There are a few of the non-electric species
around. The better ones are made of cordura nylon, and are usually
coated to be rain resistant (not usually water proof). They are easy
to get on and off, are comfortable, and won't leave you with cold
legs.  These also function as added abrasion protection.
Gloves
These are another of the absolute essential items every rider must
have. Gloves can be split into two basic categories, summer and
winter.  Summer gloves are the leather, uninsulated type to protect
your hands from abrasion should you fall. Winter gloves must provide
that protection as well as protect against cold and rain. Winter
gloves must be insulated with Dupont Thinsulate ® or some other
material. Don't buy gloves that are too bulky in the palm lest you
lose the feel of the bike and its controls. Make sure that your gloves
have long gauntlet type cuffs that will fit over your jacket sleeves
to ensure no wind gets up your arms. Most winter gloves are at least
water resistant.  Some have a little zip-up compartment in the cuff
area which houses a waterproof cover should you get cought in a sudden
downpour. Get gloves that have a felt strip on the index finger on the
left hand. This allows you to wipe water from your visor without
scratching it. As with all gloves, summer or winter, make sure that
there are no rough seams in the palm area. If you ride for a couple
hours with a seam between your hand and the grip, you'll feel it.
Tricks and Tips
One article I am never without is something to protect my neck from
the cold. Whether it's a commercial or home-made model, a lot of
riders consider it an essential piece of cold weather riding
equipment. The simplest kinds are a felt type material cut into a
bandanna shape where the ends connect together at the back of your
neck. This keeps wind from coming in and going up your helmet or down
your jacket. Some of the more elaborate models actually fasten onto
the bottom of your helmet and form a seal from your helmet to your
chest. Very effective.  Balaclavas can be also very nice. You can buy
them in silk or numerous synthetic materials. They are like hoods that
pull over your head and extend to your chest. When buying a neck
insulator, ensure that it has enough material to reach to your chest,
or else it'll come untucked from your collar when you shoulder check
or look up.
Emergencies
The best way to handle any kind of emergency is not to let it happen
in the first place. Of course, that's not always possible, especially
if you live in a place with mountains where the weather can change
every mile or so. It is extremely important to keep warm. When your
body decides that it's cold, the blood starts getting divereted away
from the surface of your body and towards the vital organs. As the
cold worsens, the body will start to shut down some of the functions
that it deems non-essential. One of the first things to get axed is
the judgement functions. Eventually, you can't move your fingers and
toes and your mind is operating on autopilot. Obviously a very
dangerous situation for any motorcyclist. If you find yourself getting
cold, stop at the next available pull-out. If this happens to be a
restaurant, great. Take some time and warm up. Don't just inhale a cup
of coffee and think that's good enough. Have something to eat to give
your body some energy so it can keep itself warm. If it's getting on
the cold side but really isn't that bad yet, take some preventative
medicine.  Buy a newspaper and spread it out in layers between your
jacket and sweater. It'll make a very effective wind block, though it
has very little insulation value. If you can keep your torso warm, it
will help keep the rest of you warm as your blood can warm up in your
chest every time it circulates before going back to the colder
extremities.
Above all, think about what you are doing. Is it worth the risk to
your life to get to your destination on time? Plan ahead. Consider the
conditions you will may be riding in. Use the worst case scenario
(what's the worst weather I might encounter) and dress for that. You
can always remove some layers later, or add some if you brought them.
Take it from us, buy the best. The best equipment will be safer, last
longer, look better, and will be more comfortable than a similar
article of dubious manufacture.
Resources - This is an assortment of various sources for some of the
gear mentioned above. There are many more distributors of riding
equipment than this. Visit a reputable dealer in your area for more
information.
   * Aerostich Riderwear - Free catalogue call 
1-800-222-1994
 or write
to
Aerostich Riderwear, 8 South 18th Ave. West, Duluth, MN 55806.
   * Jackets and gloves - Roadgear: call 24hrs 
1-800-854-4327
 for free
catalogue. Also Vent-Tech at 
1-800-331-8408
 for free catalogue.
   * Insulated pants/chaps- Maveric Mt., Inc at 
1-800-822-4212
 for
information.
   * Widder 'Lectric Heat (vests, etc.)- For info call 1-800-WYBCOLD in
the
US, 
(805)640-1295
 outside US.

altri consigli li lascio alla vostra fantasia.
Portati in un area deserta e fai un pň di pratica se sei proprio un
"absolute beginner", poi col tempo sarai bravissimo!
Ciao e auguri!
Massimo Fattorusso
Sorrento (NA)
Ducati M600

L'utilizzo del  freno  anteriore  e  posteriore  dipende  per  la
maggior  parte  da come si guida, normalmente l'utilizzo e' circa
80% ant.  20% post. oppure usare il  freno  posteriore  solo  per
bilanciare   l'azione   dell'anteriore   (piccole  pressioni  sul
pedale). Nel caso in cui dovessi arrivare lungo in curva non sono
proprio  d'accordo  con  Catja  (forse  lei  mota  delle Michelin
fortemente  autoraddrizzanti)  sull'utilizzo   del   solo   freno
posteriore,  infatti  dal  momento che sei "lungo" la moto non ha
l'inclinazione  che  tu  vorresti  che  avesse   di   conseguenza
l'utilizzo  del  freno  anteriore e' ancora ampiamente consentito
con la  sua  massima  potenza  frenante;  ovviamente  puoi  anche
frenare  con  il  posteriore  non e' mica vietato, ma occhio alle
sbandierate perche' se sei fuori traiettoria ti viene  automatico
forzare   la   moto   in   traiettoria   e  il  posteriore  parte
inevitabilmente in controsterzo (con ruota bloccata  ovviamente).
Tutto  cio'  per  esperienza  personale,  in  quanto  in pista la
staccata si puo' tirare facilmente fino a meta' curva, quindi  un
lungo  su  strada (l'inclinazione non sara' mai come in pista) ti
permette, secondo  me,  l'utilizzo  dell'anteriore.   Tutto  cio'
ovviamente  con  strade  perfettamente pulite (senza "ghiaietto")
altrimenti CRASH!  Il freno posteriore  e'  molto  utile  in  due
soprattutto  nelle  frenatone  se  non  vuoi che il passeggero ti
salga sulla schiena. Se  non  sbaglio  l'ER-5  monta  un  tamburo
posteriore  occhio al bagnato e quando si scalda perche' potrebbe
perdere potenza.  Per quanto riguarda il riscaldamento del motore
io  sono  un  esagerato  nel senso che la scaldo (scaldavo sigh!)
circa tre minuti da fermo poi per i primi dieci Km non superAVO i
duemila  giri.  Pero' a quanto dice Massimo Clarke e' sufficiente
stare fermo 30 secondi e poi per i primi sette km non superare un
quarto  del  regime  di  rotazione  massimo  del  motore.   Tieni
presente che per come trattavo io il  motore  "da  freddo"  oltre
alla regolare manutenzione (non scordarla mai olio candele ecc..)
ho fatto 40.000 KM per il 90% in pista con una  FZR  1000  EX-UP.
Altro  consiglio:  controlla  spesso  lo  stato  della  catena di
trasmissione finale lubrificala  e  tendila  correttamente.   Con
queste    precauzioni    dovresti    avere   una   lunga   "vita"
motociclistica.
La scalata delle marce ti verra' automatica, ricorda comunque  di
non  scalare  5  marce  in  autostrada se vedi che davanti stanno
frenando altrimenti "impicchi" il motore, inoltre cerca  di  dare
un colpettino di gas mentre scali per evitare che il motore passi 
da  basso  numero di giri (frizione tirata) ad alto numero con il
rapporto ineriore selezionato 
MAX EX FZR 1000 KTM 250

 
Le mie mani sono molto piu' sensibili di un piede in uno stivale da
enduro ... come fai ad accorgertene, che il freno posteriore e'
bloccato? solo quando e' gia' bloccato! Quello posteriore mi si blocca
subito.
Per bloccare quello anteriore devo proprio mettercela tutta ... sara'
che ho solo un freno a disco davanti.
Ciao
-- Roberto

la grazia di prestarmela).
Io ho avuto un M600 e, a mio avviso, e' una moto splendida, che puo'
andar bene per tutti: agilissima, ben frenata, stabile e dal fascino
inimitabile.
Gli unici difetti consistono nella scarsa trattabilita' ai bassi
regimi, nella poca ospitalita' offerta al passeggero e in una a mio
parere eccessiva cedevolezza della forcella anteriore, cui si puo'
porre riparo con la sostituzione delle molle e dell'olio.
Saluti
	      Luca Ghedini
     "Siamo Uguali ma siamo Diversi"
       mailto:
luca.g...@iol.it
Home Page: 
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/3910
    phone: 051/201352 0338/6848620

 andar bene per tutti: agilissima, ben frenata, stabile e dal fascino
...
  con tutto l'affetto per ogni attrezo a due ruote: prova a domandare ai
vigili urbani di Bologna. AHAHAHAH!
  ehm, no, meglio che chiuda qui, senno' mi strabalto dalla sedia!
Ad maiora  Paolo   (esco ma ancora rido!)

la grazia di prestarmela).
Il problema e' il prezzo.
5 milioni in piu' della kawa non sono pochi.
A parita' di prezzo stai certo che prenderei il ducati !
Approfitto per ringraziare tutti dei preziosi suggerimenti.
Ciao.

 
enr...@ats.it
Io ho avuto L'M600 come prima moto e ti assicuro che e` accessibile...
facci un pensierino...
Daniele
M900

		Angelo.
<cut>
Bisogna fare una piccola premessa (senza scendere in troppi particolari) sulla
fisica, per l'esattezza sulla meccanica dei corpi.
1- Quantità di moto = MV^2 dove M=massa in Kg V= velocità in m/s
Ogni corpo tende a conservare la propria Qm e maggiore sarà la Qm maggiore dovrà
essere la forza necessaria per variarla. (Es: Una moto che viaggia 100 Km/h ha
bisogno per fermarsi di una certa forza, una che viaggia a 200 Km/h ha bisogno
di una forza di 4 volte superiore al caso precedente)
2- Conservazione dello "stato" di moto.
Il 1° principio della dinamica ci dice che: Un corpo NON sottoposto a forze, o
sottoposto a forze la cui risultante è nulla, mantiene il suo stato di quiete o
di moto rettilineo uniforme. 
Un corpo in movimento tenderà quindi a rimenre sempre sullo stesso piano, finchè
non interverranno forze a modificarne lo stato.
(ES N°1: Siamo in auto e in curva tendiamo a "cadere dal sedile", non è forza
centrifuga ma una forza apparente; in pratica tendiamo ad andare dritti invece
di seguire l'auto nella curva.
ES N°2: Siamo sempre nell'auto, e alla prima frenata diamo una craniata al
parabrezza. L'auto frena, ma noi tendiamo a mantenere la nostra velocità)
3- Il pendolo di Focault (non il libro di Eco)
Il tipo scoprì che un pendolo non vincolato nella rotazione intorno alla
verticale, col passare delle ore, sembrava che cambiasse orientamento (Tipo da
nord-sud a est-ovest).
La cosa servì in realtà a dimostrare che la Terra girava (e gira tuttora....)
essendo già noto il principio della conservazione dello stato di moto.
Per estensione, è facile passare dal pendolo ad una ruota. Praticamente succede
che maggiore la massa, maggiore il diametro (+ grande il diametro maggiore la
velocità periferica a arità di giri) maggiore sarà la quantità di moto
"sviluppata" dalla ruota. Quindi se la Qm avrà un valore alto, ci vorrà una
forza notevole per far cambiare piano di lavoro (inclinazione, direzione) alla
ruota.
Tale effetto si chiama, per l'appunto, effetto giroscopico.
Per dare un esempio pratico, negli anni '80 si diffuse fra le moto giapponesi
l'uso della ruota anteriore da 16"  in luogo di quelle da 18". Questo per
cercare di dare maggior maneggevolezza all'anteriore (due pollici = 5 cm in meno
di diametro non sono pochi).
Spero di essere stato sufficientemente chiaro e non troppo "prof.".
Se serve ancora qualche notizia di fisica, chiedi pure.
P.S. Quanto sopra NON è la traduzione del testo che hai postato, perchè era un
po' troppo da tradurre in tempi brevi. Se non hai fretta, posso provvedere nel
giro di qualche giorno.
Ciao.


vigili urbani di Bologna. AHAHAHAH!
Vabbe', ha una frizione che spacca la mano, una posizione di guida che
non e' esattamente il massimo per la guida cittadina (i VVUU, infatti,
hanno fatto sostituire il manubrio).
Infatti, quando ho visto che i Vigili avrebbero adottato il Monster,
mi sono sentito risarcito di tutte le multe ;-)))
Saluti
	    Luca Ghedini
  "Siamo Uguali ma siamo Diversi"
     mailto:
luca.g...@iol.it
 
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/3910
  phone: 039 51 201352 - 0338 604862

Ciao,
	qualcuno che conosce l'inglese un po' meglio di me puo'
	spiegarmi questo concetto del 'giroscopio'.
	Scusate ma io mica l'ho capito!
	Grazie,
		Angelo.


>_____________________________________________
  Francesco Aguzzoli                                   °°°
                         Rides a Kawa KLR600S (Il Ramarro)
                         In Reggio Emilia & other places
                         E-Mail: 
rram...@hotmail.com


Beh, certo 5 milioni non sono pochi. In ogni caso converrebbe partire
col piede giusto con una moto in grado di soddisfarti per più tempo.
Comunque ecco le mie opinioni:
I difetti per un principiante sono: grande raggio di sterzo, frizione
dura, cambio duro e poco preciso se non lo si usa al giusto regime,
strappi ai bassi regimi.
Tutto il resto è OK.
Comunque la Kawa, considerato il prezzo, è una gran bella moto!
Saluti


emergency. So, practice, practice, practice.
Una volta che te lo aspetti, controsterzare diventerà istintivo--il
vostro corpo probabilmente sa come fare, è solo la vostra mente che è
isolata. Capire i principi che stanno dietro al controsterzo vi
renderà più regolari e vi darà una migliore sensazione di controllo
sul vosto ambiente. Può inoltre salvarvi la vita. Come ogni tecnica di
sicurezza, funziona solo se fate esperienza. A meno che l'azione sia
secondo natura, ritornerete alle vecchie abitudini durante
un'emergenza. Per cui, pratica, pratica, pratica.
See (virtually) you soon
Fra


 -- Roberto
E' anche una questione fisica.
Frenando il peso di moto+passeggero si trasferisce dalla ruota dietro a
quella davanti. Questo fa in modo che la ruota anteriore abbia maggiore
grip sull'asfalto e di fatto assorba l'onere quasi totale della frenata.
La ruota posteriore resta percio' scaricata notevolmente e tende a
bloccare facilmente se la frenata e' decisa.
E' questo il motivo per cui il freno posteriore e' normalmente piu'
piccolo rispetto a quello anteriore.
Spesso il freno posteriore puo' essere utile in uscita di curva per
'dosare' la scarica di cavalleria in accellerazione, evitando specie a
moto ancora curvata, di slittare con la gomma posteriore in
accellerazione.
Naturalmente se non ho detto ca***te.
Ciao Andrea

	Angelo
'stinger'
THE ONLY WAY FORWARD
Ducati 748 Biposto
XXXXX  X   XX XX XX XXXXX
 X  XX X   XX XXX   XX
 X  XX X   XX XX X  XXX
XXXXX   XXXX  XX  X XXXXX (my only love)
Andrea Peretti
e-mail 
sti...@mbox.vol.it
 (fino a che non me la cambiano in 
tin.it
)
E ricordatevi che nella vita c'è chi può e chi non può...
IO PUO'

sperimentare che da spiegare a parole!
Prova su di una stradina sterrata, basta anche un motorino


in moto in condizioni normali.
Sono perfettamente daccordo: in fuori strada, su mulattiere o fondi
scivolosi, è piuttosto facile e divertente controsterzare (se non si
esagera come mi è capitato un paio di sabati or' sono), ma non mi
sognerei mai di provarci su asfalto. Soprattutto con il mio enduro!!
Ciao.


Ciao Andrea,
        la spiegazione mi sembra chiara.
	Quando vedro' un ostacolo da evitare cerchero' in tutti
	i modi di puntargli contro.
 
	In questo modo dovrei scansare l'ostacolo !!!
 
	Ciao,
		Angelo
ps. non ti arrabbiare...stavo scherzando !

Scusate se mi inserisco dopo tanto tempo.
Io ho provato quasi incredulo con il mio modestissimo scooter Skipper 125
ed ho scoperto che se non altro, al di là delle presunte derapate, è un
metodo efficacissimo per entrare rapidissimamente in piega in una frazione
di secondo.
Facciamo l'esempio di quando si vuole curvare a sinistra e pertanto si
dovrebbe dare poco intuitivamente un impulso al manubrio verso destra. Il
baricentro della moto, collocato a qualche buona decina di cm da terra
tende a proseguire dritto per la sua strada; la ruota anteriore segue
l'indicazione del manubrio e si sposta verso destra. Di conseguenza,
facendo "fulcro" sul baricentro, la moto si piega a sinistra, bell'e in
piega per affrontare la curva.
Mi piacerebbe sapere se gli invidiati possessori di quelle moto forse un
po' pesanti e non troppo immediate ad inserirsi in curva possono trarre
qualche beneficio da un uso sistematico di questa tecnica.
P.S. Avendo i soldi mi comprerei una Pegaso 3. Ma consuma proprio così
tanto?
Cutie
lcfa...@ipsnet.it

 =
E non e' solo il peso della moto che influisce; con l'aumentare della
velocita' e' sempre piu' difficile piegare una moto, anche un'enduro da
104 kg.
Ad esempio in autostrada ai 120Km e' lo stesso che moto tu abbia, non si
piega a meno che tu non abbia un trapezio. ;-)
Se pero' sei in autostrada e hai una tartaruga davanti a te e dai un
impulso al manubrio verso destra, in un batterd'occhio ti troverai sulla
corsia di sorpasso.
Ciao
-- Roberto bardin

104 kg.
E quale sarebbe questo fantomatco enduro da 104 kg ??? forse volevi
dire 140 (almeno) ;-))
Fra



lcfa...@ipsnet.it
Fammi sapere se comperi la Pegaso.
Ciao.
Dario Pegaso 96 - Trieste

 
Enduro Models of Husaberg 1997
------------------------------
Model:      Weight, dry (kg):
FE400       108.8
FE501 	    109.2
FE600	    109.7
FC400 	    107.0
FC501 	    107.4
FC600	    107.9
FE400 E     116.4
FE501 E     116.5
FE600 E	    116.9
FX400 	    115.9
FX501 	    116.0
FX600	    116.4
Comunque c'e' anche l'aprilia RX125 e poi la nuova honda 250 con il
nuovo 'rivoluzionario' 2 tempi ...
.... concesso ... sono delle moto un po' estreme!
Ciao
-- Roberto Bardin(DR650SE)

-- Roberto Bardin(DR650SE)
Robert, da 104 non ne vedo ;-) e credevo ti riferissi a dei 600 (alla
tua in particular...il che!!!) comunque quei dati li ho anche io su
Moto Verté 1996, con tanto di prove.
Comunque, la nuova Yamaha YZF400 (la nuova 4 tempi di Bartolini)
dovrebbe pesare proprio 104 Kg, per circa 57 cv!!! e l'anno prossimo
dovrebbe uscire la versione (commercializzata) enduro ma da almeno 110
kg, stando a ciò che è stato scritto su motocross di aprile.
Ciao
