Newsgroup: it.hobby.motociclismo
Titolo: [TECH]about BMW R1100 GS

hello.
I need some tips about BMW R1100 GS because I will maybe buy this bike.
1°) What is it exactly about gear box ? can you give me your experience
on this point : it's often written on Internet that big problems of gear
box are very usual. Does it depend of the millesime of the engine, or is
it the same for every R1100 GS ?
2°) Is a R1100 GS '96 exactly the same motorcycle than a R1100 GS '98 ?
Did something important change beetween 96 and 98, specially to obtain a
better fiability - to  make gear-box stronger for example ?
Thank you for help.
I can give infos about travel on motorcycle Eastern Europe; and french
Brittany where I live.
Please reply to sender - not only to group.
Answer in english, in german or in french, please.
-- 
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visit my pages about travel on motrocycle in the bulgarian mountains :
http://www.mygale.org/06/scawin/index.html

it the same for every R1100 GS ?
The problem on the gear-box are in the medium series, I belive 94 or
95, the oldest had a very noisy gear-box, but safe, then they try to
make a silent gear-box, but it brakes. Now they have solved.
Bye
Saluti bicilindrici
Steu (Stefano Colanzi)  
togli 'none' dall'indirizzo di posta elettronica
------------------------------------------------
Ducati 851 Strada '92  
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9245/851.html
BMW R1100RS (ogni tanto bisogna portare anche la fidanzata no?)

 better fiability - to  make gear-box stronger for example ?
They made some modifications. The gearbox seems to make less
noise, but as I mentioned, I like it less than the '96
gearbox. There are other minor modifications. For instance,
the sidestand is lengthened a bit, the metal plate beneath
it is slightly bigger, and for the rest I don't remember
right now what they improved.
Another problem is the clutch:
When you use it heavily, like in dirt, or when accelerating
very fast very often, you will start to smell burning
rubber: the clutch plates.
One thing to check is the free movement of your clutch
handle. It will *de*crease during use, which increases the
amount of slipping, so your clutch plates will start burning
faster.
Of course, when you once have had the pleasure of riding an
R1100GS, you just want it, no matter what "character
features" you buy along: it is such a joy to ride, and gives
you so much pleasure, that you don't mind about these things
at all ;-)
(Oh, and especially for the West-Swedes: don't forget us; we
will bring you your Grolsch in june)
Sylvia
--
http://www.sylvia.demon.nl
--

The gearbox has some problems. It is worse on my new GS (
i saw the GS bit and thought you were talking about a proper bike then
realised it was a beemer... 8o)
Badvoc
-- 
MICHAEL 'BADVOC' STUART       
Bad...@cifheo1b.demon.co.uk
 
NIGHTHAWK MCC                           
Nighth...@writeme.com
 
NORTHERN IRELAND                                    Bad...@Mindless.com                     
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/2197/
  - Almost Finished           

realised it was a beemer... 8o)
It was the subject line that gave it away for me.
--
  ~~ Darsy ~~ 
dar...@sticky.net
 ~~ 
www.sticky.net
 ~~
                                            "Let loose the Kraken!"

It was the subject line that gave it away for me.
I hadn't looked at the subject... I was just blindly pressing 'NEXT
UNREAD'   :o)
-- 
__________              .___  
\______   \ _____     __| _/___  __  ____    ____
 |    D  _/ \__  \   / __ | \  \/ / /  _ \ _/ ___\
 |    D   \  / __ \ / /_/ |  \   / (  <_> )\  \___
 |______  / (____  /\____ |   \_/   \____/  \___  >
        \/       \/      \/                     \/
 

Badvoc wrote in message ...

Oh fuck, Badvoc's Big Sig is baaaaack!


 into 1st with the clutch slightly engaged.
I've ridden a couple of BMWs, and they both had this
problem. The solution I've found:
   * leave bike in neutral
   * rev engine a little (~2k rpm)
   * let off throttle and simultaneously pull in clutch
   * shift into 1st
Works every time, no problems.
/* dan: THE Anti-Ged -- Ignorant Yank (tm) #1, none-%er #7 */
 Dan Nitschke .~. 
peDA...@best.com
 .~. 
nits...@redbrick.com
\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'
Little Hans, Little Hans, where will you go? The world is full
 of compromises. Little Hans, Little Hans, how will you know?
    They come in many strange disguises.  -- Eric Woolfson

Works every time, no problems.
I've done around 250,000 miles (400,000 km) on BMW R series bikes.
Because of their dry plate clutches, there is *no* clutch drag when
the lever is pulled in fully and that can sometimes lead to apparent
gear change problems, especially trying to get first from neutral
because nothing in the gearbox is revolving!
That's why Dan's method works; what really matters is not so much how
you rev up in neutral but that you shift into first *immediately*
after pulling the clutch.  If you leave it too long (especially when
the box is cold) everything stops and you may not be able to engage.
On the move, it pays to pull the clutch just *part* way in so that you
can synchronise the gearchange with the engine speed; if you pull in
*all* the way the primary shaft slows down too much and you get a
notchy and noisy change.
On the older R series bikes (R80 etc) it also pays dividends to
lubricate the pivots of the kinematic gear change linkage; in my
experience it makes a hell of a difference to the gear change quality.
Another poster mentioned the "smell of burning" when the clutch is
used hard; again a consequence of the dry plate, car type clutch. In
my experience clutch plate life is quite good; normally over 50,000
miles (80,000 km) on my bikes.
Can't speak for the gearboxes on the later bikes, but I have had a few
gearbox problems on R65's and R80's.  One was the failure of selector
paul springs (now seems to have been overcome) and, on one bike,
premature failure (at around 40,000 miles) of the rear output shaft
bearing.
Regards
--
John Gruffydd (Mold, Wales, UK)