Newsgroup: it.comp.hardware.cd
Titolo: "Spring Problem" PHILIPS CDD2600

Qualche tempo fa avevo letto su questo NewsGroup di un problema
Hardware che interessava i masterizzatori PHILIPS (non so se solo il
CDD2600 o anche gli altri modelli). Chi eventualmente ha avuto questo
problema (o ne e' a conoscenza) potrebbe rispondere alle seguenti
domande :
1) Come si manifesta il problema ?
2) In cosa consiste esattamente ?
3) E' riparabile o si deve buttare via tutto ?
4) Se il Masterizzatore č in garanzia viene eventualmente sostituito
dalla PHILIPS ? Se sě dove bisogna rivolgersi ?
grazie di tutto
Massimo
lac...@login.freenet.hut.fi

dalla PHILIPS ? Se sì dove bisogna rivolgersi ?



    (remove "xxx" to reply)

Dato che ho ricevuto parecchie richieste in e-mail e non sono in grado
di soddisfarle tutte per scarsita' di tempo, vi posto qui il file
originale che spiega come rimediare al problema dei Philips:
If your Philips 2600 or HP 6020i burner displays SOME OR MOST of the
following symptoms: 
- after weeks/months of succesful burning, you suddenly get more and
more coasters. Maybe not all the time, but certainly
MOST of the time. 
- You find that your Writer takes ages to confirm disc insertion, or
it may now even refuse to confirm you have actually inserted
a disc. 
- in those cases your CD burning consistenly fails with "Write Append
Error" or "Buffer Underrun" or "Failed to link blocks";
an error of similiar wording, determined by your software. such as - -
EasyCD Pro v2.1 may be giving the error: "Unable
to read Program Memory Area".
- the error always occurs on or near the same area of a blank CD (for
example, always at around 400Mb into the Blank).
- you have checked all configuration settings and are sure you don't
actually HAVE a buffer underrun due to inadequate
settings of SCSI or EIDE buses, or performance of your system.
- you have checked that your drive is not malfunctioning due to
excessive heat buildup by testing on a cold/cool drive. "Keep it
Cool" 
- AND...puzzingly, the error does NOT occur in emulation writing, only
on a "real" burn (Try this!).
Then, IF you have SOME or MOST of these problems, you are suffering
from a frequent HardWare problem many other
users before you have encountered.
This problem occurs both on the older CDR Philips CDD2000 / HP4020 and
on the newer Philips CDD2600 / HP 6020.
Unfortunately, it has different causes on the two drives.
On the older models, this problem is caused by a "spring" (actually a
piece of wire) inside the drive which begins to malfunction
after some time. This problem needs to be fixed by NORMALLY sending
the drive in for repair! But if you can't be 'assed'
doing that then follow the instructions below.
*** *** *** I M P O R T A N T   W A R N I N G *** *** ***
!!!!! THIS FIX IS FOR THE CD2000 / HP 4020i ONLY.
The following is only tested on and intended for the 2000 and 4020i
!!!!!!
Tools Needed:
        - Torx T-10 screwdriver
        - Torx T-? screwdriver (even smaller than above).  I did not
          have this small a Torx screwdriver, so I used a regular
slotted
          screwdriver with about a 1/8" blade from a jewelers
screwdriver
          kit.  I was able to wedge the slotted screwdriver into two
          of the Torx slots and get enough friction to remove the
screws
        - *Very* small phillips screwdriver.  Again, I did not have
this
          screwdriver, but was able to use another of the slotted
          screwdrivers from a jewelers kit.
        - Two pair of small needle nosed pliers.
        - Pair of dikes (cutters) used for electronic work
Parts Needed:
        - About 1.25" long, straight but springy wire, about .02" in
          diameter.  I found a suitable wire in an old 5.25" floppy
          drive that was used to apply pressure to the spindle.  I
          eyeballed its diameter as "a bit bigger than the current
          spring", which is rumored to be .012" in diameter.
Skills Needed:
        - Good eye-hand coordination
        - Good eyesight
        - Steady hands
        - Patience
The first step is to remove the case.  Remove two screws with the T-10
screwdriver and four screws with the T-? screwdriver.  Remove metal
case.  Gently release the top circuit board from two plastic alignment
posts -- this may require gradual rocking of the circuit board but do
not stress the circuit board as it is very thin.
The next step is to remove the main circuit board by disconnecting
three ribbon cables and two sets of two pin connectors.   The larger
ribbon cables are released by moving two pieces of plastic at each end
of the cable connector away from the connector body by about 1/8".
The cables should then easily slide out of the connector.  The smaller
cable has a slightly different release mechanism, but again just move
it about 1/8" away from the connector body.  Slowly rock the two pin
cables from their sockets.
You should now be able to see 4 more T-10 screws.  Remove these to
free the drive mechanism from the other part of the metal case.
The next step is to remove the smaller circuit board on the laser
transport assembly.  Remove 4 phillips head screws.  Pull the board up
and lay it over - you will not be able to fully remove the board be-
cause two wires are soldered to the motor.
If you look at the transport now, you will see a worm gear which
drives a regular gear which drives a rack gear.  The rack gear is
spring loaded to press up against the regular gear.  According to the-
ory, the spring which causes this pressure is worn out and/or not de-
signed to be strong enough.
The spring itself is a straight length of springy wire, about 1" in
length and rumored to be about .012" in diameter.  Since I don't own
calipers, I couldn't verify this.
The spring is held in place only by its springiness.  Each end fits
into a slot and the middle is bowed down an under a notch in the plas-
tic rack gear.
What you want to do is add a *second* spring wire.  You should not
need to remove the original spring wire.  I found a suitable wire in a
5.25" floppy drive I had laying around.  I removed the wire from the
floppy drive and straightened out a couple of bends that were in it
and ended up with a straight piece of springy wire about 1.25" long,
which is longer than the spring in the CD-R drive.  You want it longer
for now because it is easier to install it that way.  It will be cut
to length later. Use the two pairs of needlenose pliers to straighten
the spring wire.
With your finger, rotate the worm gear on the shaft of the motor to
move the transport carriage so that the center of the spring is under
the center of the regular gear.  You should be able to see the notches
that hold both end of the spring now.
Lay your new spring on top of these notches.  Using the blade of a
small screwdriver perpendicular to the length of the spring, press the
spring down in the middle until it is underneath the slot in the black
rack gear.  This bows the spring about 1/8" in the middle.  The spring
should now be in place.
Using your smallest wire cutters, cut the ends of the spring wire off
so that
they are the proper length.  Wear eye protection when doing this, and
if possible grasp the end being cut off with needlenose pliers so that
the wire won't fly around the room or worse into the drive mechanism.
With the drive still opened up, use a can of compressed air to blow
off the dust on the laser lens.  DO NOT touch the laser lens as it is
magnetically floating in its holder.
Now, reassemble the drive by reversing the disassembly instructions.
-Rick Richardson.
Many thanks to Rick Richardson for this handy tip. 
ri...@dgii.com
 
It is unlikely that Philips or H.P. would endorse such a 'fix' as they
would probably deny that there is 'simple problem' with the
lubrication of the moving parts of the CD2600 or HP 6020. 
Ciao a tutti.


trovarlo. Se interessa a piu' persone, lo posto qui in formato ascii.
Ti ringrazio per il file. Per il momento per fortuna il mio
masterizzatore (tocchiamo ferro :-)) ) non ha ancora presentato questo
problema (qualche volta non mi riconosce dei CD già masterizzati da
altri, però su quelli vergini non mi ha mai dato problemi e tantomeno
non mi ha mai bruciato CD in modo "strano").
Ciao, Massimo
lac...@login.freenet.hut.fi

...


philips.......e' cosi' perche' solo questi danno problemi?
Per fortuna pare di si. I modelli usciti dopo il 2600 sembrano piu'
affidabili.
Ciao!


            Alberto
Precisamente che cosa hai dovuto fare per fartelo sostituire ? ti sei
rivolto al negozio dove l' hai comprato ?
Grazie
Ciao, Massimo
lac...@login.freenet.hut.fi


lac...@login.freenet.hut.fi
Ciao
Manux  
mega...@usa.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Se replichi in email, prima togli i caratteri
maiuscoli dal mio indirizzo di posta elettronica. 
------------------------------------------------------------------------


Il metodo più semplice che hai per farti sostituire il tuo
masterizzatore è andare dal negoziante dove l'hai comprato e chiedergli
l'applicazione dell'RMA (non posso postare il file per educazione verso gli
altri).
Io mi sono fatto mandare il modulo a livello informativo dalla Philips
Italia (vedi Pagine Gialle Milano, numero verde), e poi, visto che il
negozio di acquisto era a Varese ed io sono di Milano, ho mandato un fax con
tutti i crismi (carta intestata di una SpA, fotocopia fattura, ecc.)
direttamente al numero indicato sul modulo, chiedendo se potevano applicare
tale modalità direttamente con me invece che tramite il rivenditore.
... si sono fidati ed io li ho ringraziati.
Comunque, ti ripeto, vai dal negoziante e chiedi a lui. E scordati il tutto
se non hai la ricevuta di acquisto...
Ciao,
         Alberto