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Heated bed for the XYZprinting da Vinci mini w | Instead of replacing the bed, you could invest in a silicone heating element and top it off with a piece of (Borosilicate) glass.
If the printer board has exposed headers to attach a heated bed, which is possible, but not certain, you could use an SSR (solid state relay) to power the bed using the signal from the bo... |
How thick is 0.1 mm? | I'm not sure exactly what you mean by your comment to Davo's answer, but with respect to your use of a sheet of paper reference, it seems like you can still use 80 gsm paper as a reference for 0.1 mm layers.
From Paper Sizes Explained (emphasis is mine):
There is no universal calculation for the thickness of ... |
How to create a 3D model as mold for a 4-legged animal with parallel legs | In traditional mold making, this would require a "sectional" mold -- one that breaks into mutiple pieces to free the legs, rather than just two halves. Sometimes you can use a non-planar mold break line to avoid this issue; look at the molds made for casting miniatures that aren't neatly arranged to see exam... |
I am experiencing some severe under extrusion | Assuming your filament dimension settings are correct and your extruder is correctly calibrated...
Your extruder temperature may be too low. While 184C can be hot enough, it is very near the bottom of the range for PLA and it appears your filament isn't melting quickly enough to keep up with your other settings. You... |
M3D Micro printer stops extruding but is not clogged | I'm not sure how similar the two systems are, but I use a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus and I've run into a similar problem.
There are two rollers in the head that pull the filament through to the extruder nozzle, and in one instance they appeared to have heated up, melted the filament enough to create two "indentions" on... |
Is my printer over extruding? | It looks like you some of your layers are printing with 100% infill.
If you are noticing plastic still coming out at the end of lines then I think your pressure in the nozzle is high when it is getting to the end of those lines and that pressure is pushing out the extra plastic.
That could be because your over extru... |
What parameters affect cylinder regularity? | This is probably a result of bad quality filament. If you haven't changed much in your setups, haven't changed slicers, but may have changed spools, then this might be the result. I would try using another spool and perhaps switch suppliers. I know it's expensive and there seems to be a stigma around it, but MakerBot I... |
Determining the temps and speeds for DIY printers? | The short answer is, you use the temps and speeds that give you good results. It's trial and error.
The temperature number your printer reports really doesn't matter. That's just a process control variable: it needs to be consistent and repeatable, but it doesn't need to be accurate against an independent reference. ... |
How can I print gears using very high resolution material like nylon | Proceeding with the expectation that you mean nylon rather than vinyl, there are a few options open for you. What resolution are you seeking? Layer thickness of 0.100 mm is quite good, allowing for ten layers per mm of part thickness, with infill adjusted as required.
If you've already determined that your printer wil... |
Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt | Assuming line 585 of Configuration.h looks like this
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#d... |
X and Y homing issues | Without the images of how you connected the endstops, the best guess for your problem is that the endstops cause a short circuit, once pressed, the microprocessor trips and shuts down. If you provide more information, other people may even add better answers based on your added information.
E.g. how is everything conn... |
Accidentally printed a chocolate mold instead of the object itself | Cura contains a few different so-called "special modes" which changes what the software does with your STL. One such special mode is Mold mode which, instead of recreating the object, creates a mold for the STL. It appears you may have that setting turned on, so disabling it will cause Cura to work as intende... |
Heater cartridge with 7.2 ohms - 12 or 24 V? | e3D Heater Cartridges are documented to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V & 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V & 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.
7.2 Ω is a value quite far away from these values - about double of what the 12 V versions are listed and about a third/half of a 24 V heater cartridge. So it is not a ... |
Print quality problem with M3D FDM printer | It appears that there are several issues with the prints.
First layer too far from bed
The picture showing the bottom of the print clearly shows the deposited lines and gaps in between the lines. Please re-level the bed to get the print nozzle closer to the bed (usually a sheet of paper should fit between nozzle and... |
How do you call the Z-axis mechanism in a Cartesian 3D Printer? | Linear actuator would be the proper name for the mechanism driving the movement along a single axis. There are 2 linear actuators driving the X-axis platform (for a Prusa i3 Cartesian printer, or the build platform for a raising bed Cartesian printer like a CoreXY, H-bot, etc.), the collection of parts could be named t... |
How to find correct part cooling fans? | If the fan you are using is not defective and if you test another fan that behaves in a similar manner, it's possible your firmware or hardware are the root cause of the problem.
The controller directs the driver to vary the power provided to the fan. It's a method called pulse wave modulation, aka PWM. Full voltage i... |
Why does my model stop printing at the same spot? | The answer is that you have not used support structures. The printing fails as a result of missing support structures.
If you look closely to the Ace of Clubs card at the top, you will see that the lower point is being printed from out of nothing, this corner needs to be supported. When unsupported, the extruded filam... |
Wrong Z-Axis movement in G-Code | You could put the z endstop at the top, and flip the motor connector to make it move the other direction. This should make it home to the top near the nozzle, and then move downward during the print.
Otherwise, you'll have to tweak the firmware configuration and reflash. |
Weight Reducing Design Change for Extruder Driver | Very cool idea,
One motor would definitely be more than capable of producing the required torques even through a flexshaft connector. For any normal sized 3D-printer the torques required, and the speeds you'll need for rapid response are well within the capabilities of any off-the-shelf stepper motor.
Just a note o... |
Is there a way to invert motor direction with GCode instead of Firmware in Marlin | You can use M92 to change the axis steps per unit to a negative value, which causes it to move in the opposite direction. I.e. if normally your X axis has 160 steps per mm, using M92 X-160 will invert all of its movements.
However, this is more of a hack than a real, intended solution. It would be better to (if you ar... |
Acetone smoothing not working on ABSPlus-P430 | Make sure that your acetone is actually acetone. According to the MSDS, ABSPlus-P430 is indeed "ABS resin" so acetone smoothing should work. Some companies sell confusingly-labeled products that might be mistaken for acetone, but are actually "eco-friendly" alternatives such as 2-butoxyethanol. While these alternatives... |
How to sharpen cookie/clay cutter edge | An extrusion width of 0.5 mm is too wide for making a sharp outline, I do use this sometimes for extrusion width for the infill.
Note that you can sand plastic (e.g. PLA or ABS) to sharpen the edge. |
Filament moving around and not sticking to bed | If the printed material moves with the nozzle, you might have several problems at hand, e.g.:
adhesion,
nozzle to bed distance and
overall level.
Nozzle to bed distance needs to be the thickness of a plain A4 or Letter paper. This needs to be at the same distance (when pulling the sheet of paper you need to feel ... |
Printing copyrighted objects as a print shop for a customer | There are two aspects to this question that probably should be addressed separately. This is not legal advice and I'm not a lawyer, so consult with an experienced IP attorney.
Copyright law may apply, and other IP laws, such as patents and trademarks, may apply. They each have different requirements and restrictions... |
Nozzle height adjusting for every print | It sounds like your bed is unstable. This is what I had to do with my Tronxy X1, and I fixed it by installing a decent bed stabiliser. Now that I have a stable bed, I only have to re-level it occasionally. However, the Tronxy X1 is a cantilever printer with a single rail for the bed, not an Ender 3.
I would suggest tha... |
Will I still be able to export my Fusion 360 models to other CAD packages after Autodesk's recent license changes come into effect? | Most of my answer is based off of what Autodesk has said and this video from Maker's Muse, which explains this topic in much more detail.
In summary, Autodesk is planning on restricting your ability to export any parametric file formats like .STEP or .IGES, leaving no useful CAD-specific files available for users with ... |
Which is a more accurate linear motion system? | I used a few different linear rail systems in my build:
plain smooth rods for Z motion
smooth rods bonded to a T-haped steel base for a 1200mm Y axis (similar to those at https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/suremotionlinear.pdf)
igus "low profile linear slide" for X (https://www.igus.com/drylin/profile-rail... |
Failing slow extrusion after upgrade to E3D hotend | I bet your old and new extruders have different hobbed pulley/bolt effective diameter.
It looks like your new extruder has smaller hobbed diameter that's why it pushes too less material.
In MatterControl application there is a slider which allows user to tuneup extrude ratio on the fly (while printing). You coud check... |
1st layer problems with .1 layer height | You likely need to re-calibrate the Z-height of your nozzle. The reason that a lot less plastic is coming out of the nozzle at 0.1mm is that the actual gap is likely smaller than 0.1mm. This makes the print bed act essentially like a partial "lid" on the nozzle which occludes the outflow of molten plastic.
Simplify3D... |
Help installing my Anet A8 printer to my computer | Your question addresses (USB) computer connection, so that will be addressed in this answer. For connection to the printer, you need 2 things (apart from the apparent things as computer, printer and cable):
A working CH340 driver installed on the computer for USB communication with the board,
a piece of software to t... |
Are 3D printers efficient for printing a detailed iris to bypass iris identification system? | I take lectures in university and was asked to read a review paper on 3D printed organs by Anthony Atala (the most famous paper in printed organs research). The paper discussed about using several techniques to print the tissue we need at functional resolution. The review also cites detailed procedures to 3D print lung... |
Ramps 1.4 and extruder | Make sure that your heating device (resistor) is for 12v, not 24v (resistance is < 10Ohm)
Check if the temperature readings that you get in your system are (at least roughly) the same as actual temperature (thermocouple with multimeter or any other device that can measure ~200C will help)
Check if connections are go... |
Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed? | I print PLA on a PEI bed at 60°C. I have also printed PLA on an aluminum bed at 60°C with Elmer's Glue Stick for bonding, which worked better for me than PLA. I recently switched to Aqua Net Hairspray on the aluminum bed at 60°C, which also worked well.
I have found no reason to avoid bed heating with PLA.
If the o... |
Flexible filament how to print a hollow "sleeve" | Print orientation is usually the key to print with a minimum of supports. If you print this part with the sharp point down, you will get some support structures on the outside for overhang support to prevent it from tipping over, but no support on the inside. |
CR-10 Layers not printing after certain amount of filament printed | If the problem occurs at same height I would focus on the Z axis, in particular the gantry and its rollers.
Try to remove the Z axis screw and feel if the you can slide the gantry up and down with ease, in particular if it gets harder to slide at roughly the height where the problem occurs. You can use the eccentric nu... |
Dual Filament Mixer Marble Effect | E3D has a Cyclops product which mixes two filaments inside a melt chamber. Clones of the E3D Cyclops can be found through the usual outlets. E3D also has software recommendations for using their Cyclops product, which are found here. They suggest cura as the slicer.
The RepRap firmware (and possibly others as well)... |
Which 3D printer should I use to make custom miniatures for a tabletop game? | The Form 2 will definitely give the best results for your application.
Both the Fortus and the Dimension use FDM, which builds the model up using a bead of molten plastic. Because this bead is typically 0.5mm in diameter, this strongly limits the details you can print.
The Form 2 uses liquid resin, that is cured by s... |
Creality Ender 3 - printing in front of the build plate | When a print is not printing on the build platform, you either:
Have the incorrect settings in the slicer (e.g. Ultimaker Cura, a common mistake is that the "origin at center" option is active), or
Have the center of the bed incorrectly stored in your firmware. (See: How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re... |
Can I use different sized steppers for different axes? | Each axis is fine using a different stepper size and/or quality. You will still need to tune their operating current and steps/mm for each of course. Make sure your motor mounts fit too.
Where it might become challenging is if you wanted two different steppers on the SAME axis. As in, a NEMA17 + NEMA23 for a dual Z axi... |
X carriage "vibrates" on small segments | The overall torque, and thus the incremental torque is less with your new stepper, this may result in less smooth operation because of moving the weight of the carriage (e.g. when you have a direct extruder mounted on the X carriage).
You could be facing skipping steps, resulting in less accurate prints. Maybe the Vr... |
Can't seem to fix over extrusion | Your images look as if your initial nozzle to heat bed offset is too large. This causes the filament not to be squished. Try re-levelling and have a piece of plain printing paper have a little drag when pulled. |
Changes rods for linear rails | I've seen mods for the Hypercube (and Hypercube Evolution) using linear rails (e.g. this mod), so yes that is possible. You need to redesign a few parts and make sure you have the correct length, but that shouldn't be too difficult. |
Tetrahedral honeycomb? | For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, but i... |
Top surface scarring even with Z hop | Z-Hops only occur when the slicer is retracting Filament automatically (i.e. when Cura detects a move between parts/around outer walls where stringing would be a problem).
In your end G-Code, you do retract your filament, but manually. This means that Cura does not add the Z-Hop code.
Solution:
Add this before your G... |
G-code for activating material preset in Marlin | The M145 G-code command sets the values for the materials for use by the LCD menu solely to preheat the bed and/or hotend and part fan cooling percentage. There is no code to lookup the values and execute to heat up material 1 (S0). |
Arduino and Ramps powering up | I had a similar issue building my Prusa i3 Mk2s clone. I was constantly hooking & unhooking my Arduino from my PC while the printer was plugged into the mains. At some point it had enough & it released some "magic smoke". Later on I found out this was the power regulator on the Arduino.
You shouldn... |
When building the ramps 1.4 is it safe to use small wires to jump the 5A, 12V power input over to the 11 Amp input | I guess that the external split is at least partly done to force the user to utilize 4 wires. 16 Amps at 12 Volts is quite a bit of power and you don't want your wires or connectors to melt. If you use twice the wire cross section by using 4 instead of 2 wires, you also reduce the resistivity and hence heat created in ... |
Issues with Auto Bed Leveling | Your problem is that the hotend carriage does not stop when the sensor triggers. I assume you mean "on homing", not "while printing" (UPDATE: after watching the video it is confirmed that it is "on homing"). First, the working and this difference is explained. Thereafter your configuration file is assessed and typical ... |
Thermal runaway triggers when raising temperature amid cooldown | Yes there are ways to tune false positives. For Marlin firmware you can find these option in the Configuration_adv.h file.
From the file itself you can read what you need to do:
* If you get false positives for "Thermal Runaway", increase
* THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD
*/ |
If I have a nozzle clog, can I easily get rid of it by simply replacing the nozzle? | The nozzle on a Prusa i3, if a genuine Prusa, would be part of the E3Dv6 assembly and is removable. It's wise to heat the nozzle to 150°C or higher, and handle with the care necessary for something that hot. When loosened, be prepared for it to fall onto the surface below. A catching tin would be a good idea, at the ve... |
Autodesk Spark Print Manager Operating Systems? | I checked https://spark.autodesk.com/developers/reference/desktop-applications/print-manager. It seems that Print manager is a application written in JavaScript and its source code is available on github.
So you have to install node.js to run it. So you can use all major OS (win, mac, linux, ...). |
Keeping my filament spools from getting knotted? | When I first set up my printer, the spool was able to spin freely. Filament was making loose coils on the outer layer of the spool. Snags happened frequently. I decided that not allowing the spool to spin faster than the rate draw of the filament might improve the way the filament was feeding.
I put more physical dis... |
3D Molecular Printers | The link I mentioned from popular mechanics is the state of molecular 3d printing. So yes the printer does exist and can do some really impressive things. However as the article states it is limited to what it can create right now. The technology sounds really interesting. However it might be a bit out of our knowledge... |
What can cause a 3D printer to catch on fire? | In short:
The control board does not have thermal runaway installed
The heated bed connectors are loose and begin to heat up until the wires catch fire
The power supply or it's connectors begin to heat up until they catch fire
The modifications that you made to your printer were not well thought out resulting in a cap... |
Printing with Polycarbonate keeps warping | Adjusting the design may also be able to help limit the amount of warping you get.
One of the major causes of warping is upper layers contracting while cooling when laid down over now-cool(er) lower layers which no longer contract so much but are still thin enough to flex when subject to tension along their upper edge... |
Additional mods for printing metal filled filament with Ender 3 V2? | There is a lot of misinformation in the 3D printing world about "all-metal hotends" being an upgrade. Some of them, especially clones, are not even all-metal but just poor lookalikes that create all sorts of problems. But even if you get a real one, it's a trade-off, not an upgrade. It lets you print material... |
Scratches in the build plate - How did this happen, and may it cause problems? | As the question continued in comments, it can be read that the build plate had over-tight screws and loose screws on the build plate. This uneven tension could lead to stresses that warp the bed, e.g. lower corner and bulging out in the middle of the bed. When levelling on the corners, the nozzle could hit the bulge in... |
Print sketchup files (STL) on makerbot | It appears that you have scaled the object after the raft and supports were added. As you can see in your photo of the raft, the clip is approximately 7/8ths (1.75/2) the size of the raft.
Edit: As a side note, STL files don't actually have a concept of units. Each axis is defined in arbitrary units. That's why when y... |
PID autotune fails with a temp too high | As the heating curve is very steep, it could be that the wrong cartridges are inserted, or you have been supplied the incorrect cartridges. (Not long ago I've had a similar experience with a 12 V cartridge in between my 24 V spares...)
To find out for which voltage the cartridge has to be used you can measure the resis... |
Which is the right filiament type to print breakable children's toy parts such as small gears | deliberate/planned obsolescence is the term you look for
If you design parts that break after some time, you plan their obsolescence. That you do by a deliberate choice of material and working conditions. Designing a part that will break after a certain time can be done by choosing the correct stresses that will make y... |
Why is glass a widely recommended option for the print bed? | I suggest to look at a similar question, but just the glass question here:
Glass is a very smooth surface
Glass shrinks when cooling to a degree it pops the print free on itself
Glass is virtually impossible to scratch with metal scrapers
Glass stays fairly flat under heating
Refurbishing of the bed isn't needed but f... |
Print layer shifting on Alunar M508 Prusa i3 clone | This effect is called layer shifting . Now that you know what it is called you could look at some other solutions fixing this issue; e.g. here, here or here. The answers of this question describe best what is causing this. Usually (most of all the cases) it means that your belts are not tight enough.
An edit of the qu... |
Which NEMA 17 Stepper Motor for Titan? | The safest thing to do is to wait a month (it probably won't take that long anyway), and order the correct stepper motor from China, or pay more and locally source the 42BYGHW609.
The 42BYGHW609 is a commonly used stepper and it is best to keep all of the steppers matched - just for ease of calibration, matched perfor... |
Weird temperature graph and thermal runaway protection triggered | Periodic temperature irregularities, such as cycling between a higher temperature and lower temperature slowly enough that it spends at least a layer or two at a different temperature than other layers has a tendency to be mistaken for z wobble. You can actually intentionally modulate print temperature (at least of PL... |
3D printer part clones from china - legality | This question is really a legal question, and could apply to any cloned parts/devices rather than being 3D printer specific, and a generic counterfeit consumer goods based question should be asked on SE.Law. However, as you rightly state, a lot of 3D printers from China may contain (whether knowingly sourced or not by ... |
Brand new Ender 3 does not extrude any filament during printing | I am a fairly new user of an Ender 3 and had similar issues on a couple of occasions.
The main reason was as @0scar suggested - the nozzle was too close to the build plate preventing the filament from exiting - and the back-pressure was causing the filament to jump back, giving the extruder a "shudder" as it slips on ... |
How to effectively eliminate stringing in 3D print | Note: The image in the question was changed after the question was asked. This answer is out-of-date with respect to how the question has changed; I'll update it when more information is available.
These don't look like strings, which I'd define as material deposited outside of the model, but rather damage done by m... |
Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints? | Hard to say for sure - my whole printer is cheap parts bought as a kit in China by a Chinese student who abandoned it in the US (I resurrected it after it was abandoned.) It includes all the parts you list, and I think we finally sorted out what the thermistor actually is so the temperatures are more accurate now.
It ... |
Is packing multiple prints into the build volume a feasible workflow for powderbed printers? | Yes, this is very popular. Look into the site Shapeways and you will see that this is exactly what they do. I've also personally seen a local 3D print shop do this with their machine. It's called batching. I similar technique can be used in traditional machine shops (mills/lathes). |
Bicycle air pump project | depends
You certainly can print parts of a bicycle pump, for example, the outer case and maybe the inner piston, maybe even the housing for the connection valves.
However, you cant print the buffer spring or the valves itself. You will have trouble printing the adapters. And you will have to print in ABS to smooth the ... |
RAMPS 1.4 Stepper's not getting a good signal | Turns out there were multiple faulty stepper drivers, if the one stepper driver was plugged in, it would operate, but would draw too much current from the pins on the Arduino causing all the other drivers to receive weak signals.
This is why swapping them around still only worked on the X-axis, if it was only one driv... |
MOSFET as a safety feature | In the world of (cheap) printers, "MOSFET" has taken on a meaning of its own.
For a long time, 3D printers have had MOSFETs on board of their motherboards to switch the heated bed. In the past two years or so, we've seen a surge of (mainly) Chinese printers where the on-board MOSFETs (or, more often, the terminal bloc... |
Infill not printing well. What I am doing wrong? | You problem clearly under extrude which mean the plastic not flow as much as it should be.
I face this problem recently here my step to solve.
Tune e step (do this first)
Add more temp. to nozzle (so plastic will melt and flow faster)
Slow down print speed.
Change nozzle and clean whole hotend. |
How do you solve PLA corner-curling short of printing really, REALLY slow? | Cura has an additional setting that you can make visible called "Lift Head". My recommendation is that you do the following:
Set your minimum print speed to something actually reasonable like 30mm/s or higher. Printing too slowly negates the following two settings and is not beneficial to printing small features.
Set... |
Is it necessary to have both hot ends on a dual extruder printer at the same height? | I have a dual extruder Replicator 1 and having the nozzles at the same height is a must and albeit a bit of a struggle otherwise. At one point, I had to disassemble my extruder head and the nozzles didn't line up quite right. There after, printing with the lower one obviously didn't have any troubles, however, printing... |
Pronterface not connecting ERROR: A device attached to the system is not functioning | Finally, I found the solution after frying up a Mega board. The problem is with the Mega board. Part of the board is not functioning properly or not connecting with the RAMPS 1.4 shield properly. So I tried with a new Arduino Mega board and it worked.
Also removing the D1 diode is the solution for the voltage regulat... |
How to determine real printing speed (TEVO Tarantula/Cura)? | Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer.
Slicers typically compute the expected time by assuming the printer will execute exactly what it is instructed to do, but a printer is a real object, with mass and momentum, and stepper motors that have an upper limit for their power ... |
How is 3D printing done in space? | Most likely, the 3D-printers used on ISS does not incorporate some fundamental difference that allow them to print in zero gravity.
Some people over at 3Dprint.com raised a very similar question, and figured that when turning their 3D-printer upside down and on it's side:
there’s not really much difference at all.... |
Is Marlin capable to work with binary G-code? | No. Marlin only supports ASCII G-code, and does not (currently) support binary format. According to the List of Firmware, Repetier is the only firmware that supports binary G-code. Moreover, verifying with Marlin's source code, shows that the G-code parser can only handle traditional G-code. |
Clearance between moving parts | Each printer will have different "print in place" tolerances, but you can find such a model with which to determine the numbers you seek.
One such item is on Thingiverse: |
preventing my printer nozzle from getting too dull, from nothing but PLA filament | Your extruder nozzle will wear from the inside out if you are using abrasive filaments, which include carbon fiber, wood type filaments, glow-in-the-dark and many other types.
Because they are abrasive, removing material from the inside also thins the cone shape of the outside (point) of the nozzle.
The solution is to ... |
stl files -measuring stl files | Consider to provide additional information regarding the software you use and the source information of the STL file. I will make some general suggestions that you can implement to resolve your problem.
Meshmixer is a free program that has the ability to measure overall dimensions as well as point-to-point locations w... |
Marlin firmware: move without auto bed leveling | A second G28 should not be necessary as it can be replaced by a G0 or G1 command, but in the end it should work when RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 has been set in firmware weren't it for a bug present in the Marlin 2.0.7.2 and 2.0.x bug-fix release. |
What are the effects of the elements on 3D printed objects made with "infused" PLA | If you use filaments filled with metal particles, some particles will be exposed to the environment. Depending on the corrosion resistance of those metals, yes the environmental conditions will weather the print object. So if it contains iron (and does not contain elements that prevent oxidation like used in stainless ... |
How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling? | There are a few questions on this topic, so a more generic solution would be informative and will prevent multiple questions of others when their sensor has a slightly different location. This answer intends to cover any position with respect to the nozzle. It also does not matter what kind of sensor it is, it can be 3... |
How to display images on DLP using HDMI for 3D printing? | Q1: Printrun is 3D printer host software written in Python with limited DLP support. You can checkout how it display layers.
NanoDLP directly talk to GPU through Dispmanx which makes it Raspberry Pi only.
Q2: Printrun supports SVG. To convert SVG (multi-layer) to PNG you can use ImageMagick cli tools, you should cons... |
What parts are strictly necessary for a 3D printer? | You will certainly find that the print functionality of a 3d printer is a bit more complex than you suggest. The mechanical portions include a means to push the filament into a heated nozzle as well as the software portion to regulate the speed of the filament movement. You haven't referenced the heater cartridge and t... |
All-metal hotends are less forgiving / not as good for PLA -- but how bad? | All-metal hotends are less forgiving
Yes
not as good for PLA
No
but how bad?
That is very subjective and totally depending on the skill of the 3D printer operator! So, that part of the question cannot be answered.
Fact is that all-metal hotends are sold as being upgrades to lined versions, this is simp... |
What is the best free source for generating g-code | Try using TinkerCAD!
I'm not advertising here - I have used TinkerCAD in the past for 3D printing.
TinkerCAD allows you to easily build and create simple shapes by the press of a button. (I assume this is what you mean by generation)
It is great for testing if your homebrew 3D printer works.
Link: https://www.tinker... |
Visible lines along Y-axis on Ender 3 Pro | I see some possible issues at work here:
Retraction issues on the arc. You might need to decrease your retraction length a little.
Your bed might have a little play. tighten the eccentric nuts a tiny bit.
As you are at it, check your X-belt, because accuracy on the Y move is affected by the accuracy of the X-head's po... |
Removing pla from extruder | One resource you can use is called the nylon cleaning method. It works by setting nylon filament temperatures, pushing nylon filament into the nozzle until only nylon is extruding, then cooling the hot end to a specific temperature. The page linked suggests a hard yank, but I disagree. Brutality is not a recommended ac... |
Getting better support than Slic3r generates | I know many Slic3r users - myself included - add support material to the model itself before importing it into Slic3r.
I personally favour MeshMixer for support generation, as the supports are much more predictable and easily removable. In complicated cases I also add supports in my CAD software.
Although a not fre... |
Configure Marlin for tool changing system | Use a servo. This way you can use the digital pins to control it; or in your specific case PWM_PC9
Connect it to the expansion port and configure one of the digital pins in the marlin configuration file. A servo will go to the minimum position when the pin goes low, and the max position when the pin goes high. I take i... |
What is a w/t ratio? | It appears to refer to calibration factor called Width over Thickness.
From Calibrate your 3D printer to print parts to fit
Here is the list of necessary variables for this calibration to work,
Carve/Extra Decimal Places (float) : change to 5
Carve/Edge Width over Height (ratio) : nozzle diameter/layer ... |
How to increase bed temperature over 103 degrees | You need to increase the power of the heated bed. With a given amount of power, there is an upper limit to the maximum temperature you can reach because at a given point losses due to conduction, convection and radiation will balance out the heating power and the temperature will not increase any more.
Sometimes, inab... |
How to modify G-code or a better place to get it | Download an stl file from Thingiverse.com
Put your .stl file in a slicer program like cura
It will output gcode for 3d objects rather than 2d. |
Extruder motor does not turn | It turns out the problem was a firmware issue. Using the gcode below (from David Lotts in the comments), I was able to determine that the extruder was running backwards. A flag in the firmware reversed it, solving the problem.
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E20 ;extrude 2... |
Slic3r: How can I automatically modify the STL filename? | The filename is under the "Print settings" tab. Under output options, you can change the name template. You can use words like: [layer_height] to make the name dynamic.
The variable you are looking for here is: [filament_preset]
But the full name, with space and everything, is used.
Here is a screenshot:
Here is a ... |
RF100 Settings after reinstalling firmware | Everything was fixed by thorough googling and flipping the whole wire-set of the motor. It started to twirl in a right direction.
Sorry for the time |
Bridging islands in my stencil | You should know that there will be no such functionality anywhere because "make a bridge between islands" causes some questions:
what do you mean be bridge
where this bridge should be
how it should look like
Application cannot answer these questions automatically.
Conver image to 3D object is (almost) only to crea... |
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