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BLTouch not leveling | You are mixing and matching a few older techniques. That's understandable, because "older" means "as of three months ago." But there is a better way now: as of version 2.0, the SKR mini has a full, working port for the BLTouch. You do not need to plug it into the z-stop, and you can and should retai... |
Music from the printer? | Yes, it has been done before, see here and here.
The README file of the first repository linked above contains a detailed explanation of the basic idea/calculations involved. A short excerpt:
As you can set the parameters of G1 in such a way as to precisely control the velocity and the distance of a movement alon... |
Baking old PLA spool | Oven drying PLA
Heating filament below the transition temperature of the filament should not be unsafe when using that oven later for cooking food. You need the temperature to stay under the glass transition temperature of PLA so that the filament doesn't deform. Depending on the PLA filament, you should use the very ... |
On a LENS printer, does the head move, or is it table that moves when printing? | Whilst this is not a definitive answer, if you watch the video on their website, LENS 450 Systems, it is the bed that moves in the X and Y axes - the head remains static. The bed also appears to move in the Z axis, after each layer (as there is noticeable bed wobble).
However, the head is on an armature so it could b... |
Useless head movements in PrusaSlicer | I found the solution :
It was the option "avoid crossing perimeters" that seems to do exactly the contrary of what it means.
Thank you all for your answers. |
Hotend moves up on HOME command | The mystery is solved. The BlTouch probe was slightly blocked and reported (supposedly) being in touch with the plate. Just touching it released the probe from the stuck position and all works well now.
Due to direct sunlight, I overlooked the warning blinking red colour of the BlTouch. |
Ender 3 Bowden tube popping off | If the fitting is remaining attached to the PTFE tubing, that would indicate that the threaded end of the fitting is pulling out of the drive assembly. This implies that the internal threads of the drive assembly have stripped out. This is not unusual for a plastic drive assembly.
The best solution is to replace the dr... |
New Build. Hotend Overheating. Not Printing Yet | 3.9 ohms is a 12V heater. It won't work on 24V. |
What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10? | I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows:
From power supply to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars:
The board itself is a proprietary design and labeled as "V1.1.2". The Voltage in is the lowest input on the left:
The Co... |
What kind of aluminium grade for a heated 3D printer bed? | Various grades and alloys of aluminum will have characteristics related to ease of welding, resistance to corrosion, malleability, and other aspects. For a heated bed on a 3D printer, you'd really want to have something resistant to warping and something that can be assured to be planar across the surface, that is, fla... |
How can I avoid jamming in the feeder? | The symptoms you describe hint to heat creep. Heat creep is the gradual increase in temperature of the cold end assembly (cooling fins and heat break). This gradual temperature increase leads to too high filament temperatures and as such premature filament softening. In combination with (large) retraction settings, thi... |
3D printing a cardboard box | The closest thing you will find is Woodfill plastic. As time goes on we are seeing more and more PLA that is infused with other materials. Woodfill will look and feel like waxy wood. We are pretty used to seeing fiber boards and the like so this will not come off as odd. However it is not quite cardboard, except that i... |
Split/edit part in FreeCAD? | When you want to change an STL file in FreeCAD then this is how I do it. I open the STL file in FreeCAD and select the option in the Part/Component sub-menu: Make a form from mesh (hope that I translated it well. I use the Dutch version). It can take quite some time but when it is finished you have an editable object. ... |
3D Printer seem to "Forget" Tool Path | I believe what you are experiencing is the stepper motors getting offset during the print, usually due to the nozzle colliding into the model (but possibly also due to very high printing speeds).
Basically, the stepper motors used in most 3D printers will always make moves relative to their current position (as oppos... |
Filament Leaking During Automatic Bed Leveling | The oozing is due to hot-end getting hot before the bed leveling procedure: if you move the hot-end warm up command after the G29 line you avoid that oozing
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temper... |
Tevo Michelangelo nozzle below build plate? | Just move the Z-endstop up a little higher, also make sure the bed leveling screws are not completely screwed in.
So:
Move the head of the printer up.
Move up the Z-endstop so that the nozzle is a little higher than the build platform.
Home the printer.
Disable the stepper motors and move the head over the bed to a ... |
Do spare throats or a heater blocks ever break? | Short answer
Yes
Long answer
Heater bocks
A heater block is destroyed if one of the following happens
Threads stripped
Bent or otherwise deformed
stripped grub screw
All of these can happen by handling the block with too much force when securing nozzles, thermosensors or heater cartridges.
Throats
Throats can be dest... |
Creality Ender 3 X axis homing issue | The issues you are facing can be caused typically by a defective X-axis endstop, an inverted logic of the X-axis endstop or a defective printer controller board.
When the X-axis endstop is reporting being triggered, it will not move. After "homing" it will only go to the right of the "home position".
There a couple ... |
How can I best clean the print bed after a print? | If you are printing with ABS (or PLA), acetone will dissolve it. Simply pour
some on the bed and wipe it off (beware, acetone can damage beds that have a coating or a plastic sheet over them, be sure to test this first).
Heating the bed back up may make the plastic softer and easier to
remove.
If you are using tape ... |
Uneven wall thickness with test cube | As Fernando suggests, the problem is likely with your source file. One easy way to verify this is to slice twice, rotating the STL by 90 degrees. If both prints produce fat/thin sides in the same dimension on the print bed, then it's a printer problem. If the fat side rotated with the STL orientation, then the STL i... |
Why don't 3D printer heads use ceramic inner walls? | It can be done cheaply, as two different users have proven, see
A practical 10 Cents Ceramic tube hotend, and;
Hotend with ceramic parts.
However, as Paulster2 states in his answer, there are some technical issues with using it, which make it rather problematic. Apparently, in comparison with PTFE, the thermal co... |
Run custom code between g-code commands? | A solution I use involves a 3d print server. I have defined shell scripts that address the GPIO ports of the Raspberry Pi that runs OctoPrint. OctoPrint is a 3d print server that can be accessed over your home network.
From the OctoPrint homepage:
OctoPrint is the snappy web interface for your 3D printer that allo... |
Why are the STL files for the Ultrascope telescope at 45 degree angle? | The orientation of the part in the STL file depends on the Software that creates the file. I had a software that would export the parts standing upright instead of laying flat. Depending on the CAD software it can be beneficial for the creator of the model to create in in a different orientation as the one you want to ... |
How to remove white marks from PLA | A quick blast from a heat gun will very slightly reflow the surface texture and eliminate white marks.
However, it's important to avoid over-heating the perimeter layers or you'll see them soften and sag into the infill. So wait for the heat gun to get fully hot and then use a short duration of high heat. Let the par... |
Slicer for "metal" 3d printer | Laser SLS printers (3D Metal Printer) software requirements are very similar to SLA printers specially laser ones.
There are lots of different tools which you can use together.
You can use Lasershark 3D together with creationworkshop.
Also you can convert your source file to SVG or image files, using Slic3r, nanoD... |
Centering model with CuraEngine when creating g-code? | Found a solution.
This need to be applied under "settings"
"command_line_settings": {
"label": "Command Line Settings",
"description": "Settings which are only used if CuraEngine isn't called from the Cura frontend.",
"type": "category",
"enabled": true,
"children": {
"center_object": {
... |
How do people load filament, prime the printhead, flush out the old filament when changing colors when using a standalone 3D printer? | My printer (IdeaWerk 150) is very basic and doesn't have any options for this from the screen.
I wrote a really simple GCODE file that brings the nozzle up to temperature, then runs the extruder for a few seconds, then waits, then extrudes for a bit again. I think it does this 3 or 4 times then stops. I can put the fi... |
Silicone spray as a release agent? | The problem with using a release agent is, you really run the risk of the print not sticking to the bed at all. Sticking to the bed is uber important, because if it's not there, the piece isn't going to come out right. Having it stick to the bed is a good thing (something which I struggled with for a while!!).
I beli... |
Enclosed volumes with stereolithography 3D printers | The bubble will contain air, but this will vary by printer. Most resin printers lift the printed part out of the bath slightly after each layer. Some printers, however, don't lift the piece completely out of the bath. This will cause the resin to become entrapped. Once those entrapped pockets of resin are exposed to li... |
Diagnosing why the left side of a print detaches from the board | The uneven level is explained by the unfortunate choice of the printer manufacturer to not have a second Z lead screw. It is pretty difficult to level these printers, it is all a combination of the correct X belt tension and roller tension. The uneven level in the first picture is what is causing your print to detach, ... |
The filament is almost impossible to remove | This usually happens when your nozzle is too close to bed during the first layer.
Quick fix is redo bed levelling.
Clean your build surface.
Watch you first layer |
Nozzle cleaning tool broken inside nozzle | Your best fix is to get a replacement nozzle. Nozzles are relatively cheap. Having and replacing them on a regular basis is a good thing. Replacement can help you maintain proper printing. You can probably get the cleaning tool out of the old nozzle, but most likely you'll damage it further, making it nearly useless. |
Threads for nozzle (Anet A6 extruder) | The Anet A6 uses the mk8 extruder (also used by the Anet A8). Please search for mk8 nozzles (for 1.75 mm filament). These nozzles use M6 threads. Standard nozzle size is 0.4 mm. |
Extruder skipping/clicking (brand new printer) | First you have to see if nothing jams the filament (blocked nozzle or anything in its path, PTFE tube not good, etc).
Second, the temp for ABS is about 225°C to 230°C. At least that worked for me.
If none of the above, then go for the motor. The problem could be from bad settings, low power or a motor malfunction. Ma... |
Bad quality at horizontal faces | This could be caused by under extrusion, often caused by the bed being too close to the hot end / extruder nozzle. You could try to relevel the bed, or change the screws so that the bed moves down slightly. Often when levelling, you want to feel slight resistance when sliding a piece of paper between the bed an the noz... |
Robotdigg linear guide not smooth motion | Difficult to say with the given data, but here are a couple of ideas:
First theory:
The belt is too thin/flexible for the linear guide.
Linear guides remove the backslash by adding quite some pressure in the ball system: The block is slightly too small (compared to the rail) and thus it compress the balls and rail. T... |
What is stopping us from mixing 3D filament colors in an Extruder? | I just started with google and phrase "3d printing color mixing" and on the first place (in fact first two were valueless adverts) I got this Instructables - DIY Full Color Mixing 3D Printer.
How it works?
It uses magenta / cyan / yellow filaments and mixes it while printing with Diamond hotend.
It definitely does w... |
Auto leveling with Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 does not work | Bed leveling is disabled by default. So the mesh was scanned but is not apllied after G29 command. To apply the mesh we need to enable bed leveling using
M420 S1
command |
Stepper motor moving only to one side after reset | Assuming that your M119 command has been executed for non-depressed endstop switches, it could be concluded tht the firmware is incorrectly configured.
If you execute the M119 G-code command and get TRIGGERED status values for endstops, even when the nozzle head is not pressing the endstop switches, then you have inco... |
Where is the auto-reset jumper on the Wanhao i3 PLUS? | The pictures don't help much, and I don't know the board. But if it is as described here, Elec Freaks Wiki - RAMPS Melzi, then you need to look for the FTDI Chip FT232. The reset is caused by the DTR Signal. There needs to be a copper trace from pin 2 to the capacitor and then to the jumper. From the jumper a trace lea... |
How can I extend silicon hotbed wires safely? | 750 W at 120 V is 6.3 A. 22-24 AWG is on the thin side for this. I would recommend 18 AWG or thicker. You don't need a specific style of insulation for this (other than something that is rated for the voltage and temperature the wire will need to withstand, but most commonly found wire should be good).
A good way of c... |
3Dtouch triggers way too close | That it triggers when the nozzle is about 1 mm from the build plate is how it is supposed to work. The installation manual describes how to setup the sensor.
The mount needs to be adjustable so that the distance between the bottom of the sensor (not the pin) needs to be 8.3mm above the tip of the nozzle.
When tak... |
Ender 3 print is skipping and dragging up base print lines | So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue. |
How to connect a Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro B to Repetier-Host on mac | This is not a direct answer to your question, but a solution for your problem.
If a motor is running in reverse, there are at least 2 solutions. You can reverse the connector of the leads to the stepper, or flash new firmware where you reverse the stepper in the configuration file.
The most effective and fast solut... |
A free simulation program | Fusion 360 will do finite element analysis (simulation), although I haven't used it. Whether it will perform the type of analysis that you are looking for, I do not know. Check Autodesk's tutorials.
One problem that you will encounter is that items printed using FDM technology are highly anisotropic. In other words, t... |
Z-min always open when using BLtouch and Marlin 2.0 | In order to use a BLTouch probe (or clone probe) you need to configure the firmware to know that a servo operated Z endstop is being used.
From the referenced files that are used for building the firmware you are running can be found in the configuration.h that:
/**
* The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and em... |
How to print an overhanging arc | You could modify it as shown in my picture. I added lines tangent to the 11mm circle and in this example I set them to a 40 degree overhang which should be fine, the top line is also tangent to the circle and in my experience it's easier to bridge a small section rather than do a bunch of small overhangs like an arc w... |
Z-step pulses too short (Marlin 2.0.x) | By avoiding pin 3 entirely, the Z-axis steppers have started to move correctly. My bed heater went out a while ago, so I redefined the connections in Marlin to use that pin (pin 12) as the Z-step pin, connecting it to the A4988 accordingly. This has caused no issues other than small noise problems so far. Unfortunately... |
Efficient packing of models with chains | This is relatively easy to do in any CAD/mesh software. For example, if you load import the model into Meshmixer, you can select a given solid and N links of chain connected to it (using "expand selection to groups" or similar to be safe). Then use the "Separate" command to allow you to move/rotate that subset on its ... |
Are there attempts to standardize G-code for FFF/FDM printers? | G-Code Is RS-274/NGC
There is no need to attempt to standardize G-Code, the G-code itself already is standardized: it is the NIST RS274/NGC, or often short AIN RS-274 and was not designed for just FDM printers but any moving tool. Power lathes, CNC and laser cutters all can run on RS-274! G0 and G1 always move, G28 is ... |
Extrusion stops during print | I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @kdtop. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve t... |
Home E / extrude until endstop is triggered | You should be able to adapt the "Dual X Carriage" feature for your project.
That allows a second print head (on the X axis) to move independently of the "main" X axis motor - and it can also be homed against its own endstop.
You can enable this feature in the configuration_adv.h file under "Dual X Carriage".
By defa... |
Recommendation for free, intuitive offline 3D modeling software for 3D printing | I suspect there may be fewer answers than we expect.
Personally free software wise I like FreeCAD but it is not similar to the simple shapes of tinkercad at all and not intuitive.
I did know someone who used something from https://www.xyzprinting.com that was very similar to the tinkercad stuff, but eventually ran into... |
Positioning Extruders after Tool change : Marlin 1.1.6 | Interesting project your are working on.
Does it work with normal dual extruders.?(Does mine come under any two
system mentioned above?)
The hotend/extruder you mentioned above is a E3D Chimera like system. And it is not suited for your application because you cannot lower/lift the hotends independently from ea... |
Printer halted! Psu dead? | Reboots happen in 2 cases on a printer:
If the board power has been below a the operational threshold (~3 V) and the capacitors on the board are empty, the power dip can result in a reboot.
If a device connects to the serial-USB port, it reboots.
If you power up the printer not connected to any other device, it shoul... |
Makerbot layer thickness | Unlike PLA, PETG does not like to be "squidged" down, it likes to be laid down. If you use too small a layer height, there is the danger of the filament sticking to the nozzle, rather than the bed (or filament already laid down). Try using a larger layer height -- between 0.2mm and 0.3mm, if you have a 0.4mm nozzle. |
Trouble printing perpendicular walls | You may be getting shrinking due to cooling on the non-top and non-bottom layers. Sixty percent infill is rather substantial. I'm printing 20 hour pieces in ABS at 100 °C / 250 °C using ten percent infill and getting nothing like what your image shows.
Can you do with a lower infill? More isn't always stronger. Four pe... |
Printed part problem, distortion on upper section containing hole | It appears that the upper part of your print contains less plastic than the lower. This would mean that as the printer begins to operate in that area, the previously deposited plastic has less time to cool.
The distortions are difficult to see from the distortions of the photograph, but I've experienced similar upper,... |
CR-10 heating problem | If you power the printer and it starts heating up the hotend, it most probably is caused by a faulty controller board. More specific, the MOSFET (as in an electronic switch component) controlling the current to the heater element is causing this. MOSFET devices usually fail short-circuit implying that when the MOSFET h... |
Any fix for PLA prints getting more brittle over time? | PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than other plastics like ABS and Nylon Sorry, tried to find a graph to prove it, but couldn't find one.
There's a good Google Group discussion and many other resources that go over good storage habits, but... |
Is there a table or list of tare weights of empty spools of various manufacturers? | Yes, there is a table on Reddit - Empty spool weights for estimating remaining filament which suggests that the norm (in 2015) was between 170 and 330 grams for a 1 kg spool, superficially in a bimodal distribution clustered around the high and low points. Presumably these were for 3 mm filament, this post da... |
What should I use to clean buildtak(knock off)? | Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is the general recommendation I've heard and it works well for me. |
Bonding PETG to glass | The solvents that can dissolve PET are pretty nasty -- I wouldn't personally handle any of them outside a lab fume hood. If you have that, a 50/50 mix of MEK and methylene chloride should work. (Increase MEK ratio if you want faster adhesion / less working time, and vice versa.)
First thing I would try is printing dir... |
How can I improve the overhang angles my printer can successfully print? | The two most important things you can do are:
Provide adequate cooling to solidify the plastic quickly
Minimize layer height
Cooling is really obvious. You need the plastic to solidify before it has a chance to sag. PLA in particular has to shed a lot of heat before it is fully solid. A fan and air guide setup usin... |
What is the best material for printing an anatomic bone model? | The Stack Exchange discourages "best" type questions, as any answers are going to be opinion based. There are going to be more opinions than types of materials and types of printing.
Your question regarding specifics is more on the mark, however, and has less to do with material than with method.
Consider that resin ... |
Are there FDM epoxy/resin printers? | Is this what you're looking for?
(https://the3dprinterbee.com/how-does-a-resin-3d-printer-work-sla-dlp-lcd-explained/)
Material Beam
Material blasting is a unique 3D resin printing technology that can be compared to an office inkjet printer. It is also considered one of the fastest and most accurate 3D printing technol... |
Connecting disconnected pieces in Fusion360 Stencil. Sketch entire model then extrude | As I see it, for a stencil you want the brown part with the white part(s) cut out.
This is easily doable. You can do this one sketch at a time, extrude it, and cut it out of the brown part.
To connect the inner brown parts to the rest of the brown, you'll need to cut a thin rectangle in the white character so that th... |
How to "paint" a mesh on a stl/obj | If you've looked into using Blender, you would have discovered that that program is free. It is also one of the better suited programs available for the task you've selected.
It's possible that your search terms may not have provided the best results for your objective. The task you describe is known as UV mapping, a... |
How to fight lots of stringing with PLA at low temperature (185 °C)? | 4.5 mm is a low retraction distance. Cura's default is 6.5 mm, and the Ender 3 profile provided with Cura sets it to 6 mm. The first thing you should try is increasing the retraction amount up to at least 6 mm. Also, make sure you actually enabled retraction. I saw one question here where a Cura user had enabled "Retra... |
Printing 2x slower after upgrading to "MarlinTarantula" firmware | First, Ultimaker Cura estimated printing times are not necessarily accurate for non Ultimaker printers. For Ultimaker printers this is perfectly tuned, Cura estimates the printing times from experience for the UM3E correctly. Please look into question "How to determine real printing speed (tarantula/cura)?" which is re... |
What type of plug is this? | As 0scar noted, this looks suspiciously like a JST connector, but the left one is not a JST RCY connector and it is neither one of the common JST PH nor JST XH, JST manufacturer pages show. In fact, it's not a wire-to-wire JST connector. The BQ-store claims it is a 2.5 mm JST connector, but JST has some 10 dozen differ... |
Does voltage or current affect the time to heat a bed more? | It depends on whether you are re-using the bed or not, it is actually the resistance of the bed that determines this in conjunction with the voltage (the current you get for free).
Let's say that the heatbed resistance is 1.2 Ω (depending on the heated bed make and model the resistance is typically in between... |
Pololu - connect motor supply ground and logic supply ground | That depends on how much noise you have on your motor power supply ground. You definitely want the 100 µF capacitor to have a good high frequency response. Motors turning on and off can be noisy, and that noise can cause false clock signals in your logic circuitry if you tie the grounds together. |
Slicer settings for easy support material removal | Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help. Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for "gap at top" or equivalent wording. If you increase that gap slightly, the support material will be less strongly bonded to the part. Be careful, since a huge gap could lead to bridging problems. |
Creatorbot-3D Kickstarter assembly instructions | In the comments for the Kickstarter, there is a Google Drive link that is still active here. |
Which software do I need to start print something? | First; find a model!
To print something you require a model (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called Thingiverse and MyMiniFactory for examples). Once you have a model file, you need to make it readable for the printer firmware.
If you can't find suitable model, then you need to design a model yourself... |
Strange banding on first layer/skin | i'd say your extruder driver and/or motor is overheated - really
according to your description - when you've printed other things it was fine but this is the first with such big "flat" area
usually extruder motor works for some time then stops and starts and so on and again so it has some time when driver cools down... |
Closed-loop stepper motors | A number of options exist, but keep in mind that cost will be a limiting factor.
(Small sidenote: cost depends on persective, financial cost does not equal mental cost. The tradeoff between buy or make depends also on your willingness to persist when things don't work right away.)
Before you start: make sure that you... |
How can I tell if an STL model will need supports? | You could try to:
Slice with slicer (Cura in my case) with support enabled.
Search for text: TYPE:SUPPORT
G0 F1800 X237.873 Y184.24
G0 X233.869 Y183.237
;TYPE:SUPPORT
G1 F1500 E562.81355
G1 F900 X233.579 Y183.939 E562.91577
G1 X233.368 Y184.67 E563.01816
If it exists, then try to call it again:
Use auto-orientation ... |
Marlin firmware question for dual extruder | There is nothing to worry about, this is a feature not a bug.
Extruder refers to the active extruder, the loaded/active tool. Based on the active extruder the Extruder controls either your Extruder E1 (this is known in the firmware as Extruder E0!) or your Extruder E2 (the Extruder E1 from the firmware). |
G-code wait for extrude command to finish | Are you sure the move didn't finish? That would be very unusual, not the way 3D printer firmware normally operates. A new G0/G1 move command does not execute until the previous one finishes, whether it's extrude-only, travel-only, or a print move (mix of extrusion and travel).
What's probably happening for you is that ... |
Wrong temperature on extruder 2 | If you have access to an IR thermometer, it would be interesting to verify what the actual temperature is. I doubt the hot end actually reaches that temperature, but:
if it actually does, then it could actually be dangerous, as most extruders are designed for temperatures well below 300°C. The problem would likely ... |
3D printing filament resistant to steam | Referring to the table provided in 0scar's answer, the key challenge with high temperature materials is the gap between the glass transition temperature (bed temperature) and the extruder temperature.
Polycarbonate for example is listed as usable up to 121°C, printing on a bed at 80-120°C, but requiring an extruder te... |
What is this material? | Surface finish does not really map to the substrate material, Visually, what you have shown could be glass, ceramic, plastic, epoxy or metal.
The surface finish is a combination of the shaping process, any post processing, and any surface finishing. Most significantly, there are a wide variety of custom paints which a... |
What filaments allow air to pass but not water vapor? | It is difficult enough to make 3D-printed objects water-tight (unless you paint them). Making them permeable to air but not water vapour is too big an ask, I think. |
Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed? | I think you may have used the wrong substance to clean your bed. Try using Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). You may have left some residue behind from the soap, which is now interfering with adhesion. When that is done, ensure you've gone through the steps for bed leveling again. It's amazing how much of a difference proper be... |
Square sheet in middle layers | This is a guess but it may be a problem with the sliced file. Take a look though the layers of the sliced file to see if your software is adding a layer there. sometimes it looks fine in the 3d model but it can add a layer while slicing. |
Options for making Ender 3 v2 fans quieter | There are companies making fans with blade design based on owl wings to make the blades quieter. Here's an example https://www.moduflow.co.uk/owlet-fans/ and I've seen other designs. I don't know which design ended up being the quietest. First, you would need to find out who makes these fans the right size and flow r... |
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