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hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com

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<p>You should basically look for something with a bit of an older CPU.</p> <p>This is from the official <a href="https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Windows Processor Requirements</strong></a> page from Microsoft:</p> <blockquote> <p><strong><em>Intel Processors</em></strong><br> Up through the following 6th Generation Intel Processors (Intel Core i3/i5/i7-6xxx, Core m3/m5/m7-6xxx, and Xeon E3-xxxx v5), and through series equivalent Intel Atom, Celeron and Pentium Processors</p> <p><strong><em>AMD Processors</em></strong><br> Up through the following AMD 6th Generation Processors (A-Series Ax-8xxx &amp; E-Series Ex-8xxx &amp; FX-870K)</p> </blockquote>

11234

2019-06-02T10:40:57.177

|windows|

<p>I'm looking at buying a new laptop. I run Debian Linux as my primary operating system; however, I would like the option of booting up Windows 7 once in a while.</p> <p>How can I be totally sure a machine will run Windows 7? I will have absolutely <em>no</em> opportunity to return it if it doesn't; I'll have to get it right the first time.</p> <p>Please, no comments about how Windows 7 is end of life, is not maintained, is not protected against the latest security exploits, is not the latest and greatest, or that anything it can do can be done in the current version as well.</p> <p>I trust Windows 7 (sort of) and will <em>not</em> move on.</p>

How can I be sure a new laptop will run Windows 7?

<p>I would get a Raspberry Pi because it has GPIO pins.</p> <p>Then connect a Limit switch to a GPIO pin.</p> <p>When the person punches the target the limit switch will close and you can mark that down.</p> <p>The limit switch, of course, has to be placed behind the target.</p>

11255

2019-06-04T11:52:29.617

|usb|switch|microcontroller|

<p>I want to write an app that assesses your reflexes. Basically it makes a sound you have to punch a target and the programme tells you your reaction time. I am not sure what to use for the target part. I was thinking of either a cheap mic as the sound of the impact would loud enough to be picked by the programme and that would the cue to stop the stop watch, or maybe an optical mouse same principle if you punch in front of the mouse the cursor will move and that is the signal for stopping the stop watch. Any ideas would be welcome, the system doesn't have to be perfect and can be a tiny bit makeshift. Thanks in advance</p>

Connect a switch to my PC for a buzzer type of app

<p>if you are using emulator, it will get better performance if you have a dedicated GPU... Its Good to have one, but its not a requirement, modern intel UHD graphics should be sufficient. ... Android app development doesn't require much of a GPU... but i always recommend to go for gaming laptops because they are specially designed for speed and high processing capabilities. Well HP spectre x360 is also among the best laptops on which you can rely blindly</p>

11271

2019-06-05T16:09:03.167

|video|web-development|video-editing|game-development|

<p>I would like to buy, HP Spectre x360 with intel i7 8565U, 16 gb RAM, 512gb ssd with intel uhd 620 but I am not sure If I will be able to run some app emulators for development, I will do some Programming and maybe some gaming as well but I am not intending to play games with intensive graphics like GTA5. Is it worth to buy, will it be enough?</p>

Is i7 8565U, with 16 gb RAM, 512 SSD with intel uhd 620, only integrated good enough for Android studio?

<p>Well if your budget allows you to upgrade to i7 8th gen then i will recommend you to go for it. But this does not mean that i7 4th gen is troublesome it's one of the good processors till today and for programming it won't be any trouble so if you want you can easily carry out your work on i7 4th gen. 2.10 GHz is meant for processor's clock speed with which it processes data.</p>

11275

2019-06-06T17:47:17.250

|laptop|processor|intel|

<p>I am planning to purchase 4th generation Intel® Core™ i7-4600U 2.10GHz 2.70GHz model. Also, I am thinking of latest version of 8th generation if it has lot of performance difference. Regarding this I have 2 questions.</p> <ol> <li><p>What is the performance difference between Intel i7 4th generation with 8th generation?</p></li> <li><p>What is the meaning of 2.10GHz 2.70GHz. Is it related to speed or something else?</p></li> </ol> <p>Guide me whether <strong>intel i7 4th generation</strong> is it sufficient enough or <strong>8th generation</strong> is better? </p> <p><strong>Note: Main usage is Python programming for data science point of purpose, not for graphical and gaming related purpose.</strong></p>

[Laptop]: what is the performance difference between intel i7 4th generation with 8th generation laptop?

<p>According to the <a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A78LMUSB3/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS website</a>, the board only supports a max of 140W so in theory your cooler doesn't need to be any better than that anyways.</p> <p>However, that motherboard doesn't really have the VRMs required for significant and reliable overlocking. You <em>can</em> do it, but the lack of heat sinks on the VRMs and it only being a 4+1 design is likely going to hold you back from getting the most out of your CPU. Overclocking reviews for that board don't look so great.</p>

11292

2019-06-07T20:48:43.643

|processor|desktop|cooling|heat-sink|

<p>I am planning to move an <a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/M5A78LMUSB3/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus M5A78L-M/USB3</a> and its <a href="https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/fx-6350" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FX-6350</a> CPU (default TDP 125W, max temp 61C) into a new chassis with a GeForce 1070 and a 680W power supply.</p> <p>I am looking at a series of CPU coolers from BeQuiet! ranging from 125W to 250W. </p> <p>If I really dial that motherboard up, What's the maximum power consumption of that CPU if highly overclocked, so I can determine how much cooling would be needed on that CPU?</p>

How much heat would an AMD FX-6350 emit if overclocked?

<p>Short, spec based recommendation is the <strong>Lenovo X390 Carbon</strong>. </p> <p>I'm assuming you're in Europe but not the UK, so the price on Lenovo's Irish site is €1730-1800 (i7, 16GB soldered RAM, 512GB-1TB SSD). Changing keyboard to German, French etc is free. When I checked on the Irish site, a 1TB SSD was only €30 more than a 512GB and they're giving away a free Moto One Phone :-).</p> <hr> <p><strong>Super long version</strong>, because upgrading to a new Linux based machine (even without the work and touchscreen reqs) is always a dice roll: </p> <ol> <li>Touch Screen, under €2k</li> </ol> <p>There's a number of great touchscreen laptops that are conveniently around €2k e.g. Dell XPS variants, Lenovo X1 variants, HP Spectre and Envy variants, Huawei Matebook X etc.</p> <ol start="2"> <li>Work use case, 2-4 week horizon, Ubuntu 18.04, touch screen and under €2k</li> </ol> <p>Because your livelihood depends on it, you can't afford downtime with installation, driver issues (funtime imo), support communication and returns uzw. However with current support, the touch screen requirement on Linux is limiting. Do I have any experience with touch screen laptops running any version of Ubuntu? Nope. But at least <a href="https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Community-Spotlight/ThinkPad-X390-Yoga-First-Look-Quick-Look/ba-p/4398681" rel="nofollow noreferrer">someone else does</a>. Forums show others who have Ubuntu installed on similar Lenovo laptops with/out touchscreens without issues.</p> <p>So you'd like <a href="https://certification.ubuntu.com/certification/hardware/201905-27059/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ubuntu 18.04.02 LTS Hardware Certification</a>. The Hardware Certification is usually based on a manufacturer installed version of Ubuntu rather than a standard Ubuntu, but it is very encouraging nonetheless. Having 18.04 support listed by <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/linux" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo themselves</a> inspires further confidence that you've taken as many steps as you can to mitigate risk. </p> <p><em>As of now, 18.04.02 LTS hardware certified and touch screen leaves the Lenovo X390 Yoga and X1 Extreme. Under €2k leaves the X390.</em></p> <ol start="3"> <li>X390 business extras</li> </ol> <p>Loads of ports: <em>Thunderbolt 3 and HDMI</em> (next section for dual external monitors), 2 x USB Type A ports, micro SD card slot which can have a SIM slot for LTE.</p> <p>The charger is 65W via USB-C. Less cables, less hassle.</p> <p>The X390 Ubuntu hardware cert lists Wacom in the hardware details. For this kind of money, its nice to doodle in a meeting while pretending to take notes. The pen slots into the machine and automatically charges.</p> <p>Yoga flexibility - laptop, tent, tablet.</p> <p>Thinkpad keyboard.</p> <p>Privacy cover for camera.</p> <p>The only known downsides I can foresee at this point would be the lowish screen brightness at 300 nit and the fingerprint scanner is currently not supported, probably never will be.</p> <ol start="4"> <li>My own dual external monitors and docking station experience</li> </ol> <p>I'll try not to moan too much...I've had nightmares with proprietary TB3 docks, even on Windows with drivers and BIOS up to date. Almost all I've seen require Windows drivers. Even if those work, you'd have spent nearly €200 for the chance it might work with some functionality on Linux :-O. I used Windows To Go for automatic BIOS (saved a little Unetbootin time) and driver upgrades. With Bitlocker enabled, that kept privacy invasive corporate IT away. </p> <p>Now I just connect <em>one monitor via HDMI and the other through a generic USB Type C hub into a TB3 port</em>. The hub has another HDMI port for the other monitor, USB ports for peripherals and an Ethernet port. No dongle mess. Am I downgrading the bandwidth of a TB3 port to USB 3.1? Yes. Am I limited to 2 monitors on HD? Yes again but I don't care, because it works on every screen, every time, needs no power supply and cost a fraction of a TB3 dock. A similar setup should work for all/most Linux laptops.</p> <p>You could walk into Saturn/PC World etc during off peak hours with a live 18.04 USB and try any docks/hubs you have access to. Make a deal with the sales rep that you'll buy if dual external monitors work etc. </p>

11302

2019-06-08T19:02:59.557

|laptop|linux|ubuntu|

<p>I want to buy a new business laptop where I want to install Ubuntu 18.04 as OS with following characteristics:</p> <ul> <li>price up to 2000 €</li> <li>ability to use 2 external monitors (must have)</li> <li>touchable display (must have)</li> </ul> <p>Have you some recommendations for me? And some experiences, because I read in some articles with driver problems when using a docking station for two external monitors.</p>

Recommendation of business laptop with OS Ubuntu 18.04

<p>Server resource not only depends on its user, but also upon which language it was written in. For example a simple PHP Application can run with just &lt; 100 MB of RAM. But a Java application (Spring Boot) requires >200 MB for an sample app.</p> <p>For roughly calculating the RAM requirements, run the application with just 10 users (drivers or passengers) and note down the difference between the RAM usage when idle vs 10 users &amp; divide by 10. You will get RAM Usage for 1 user. Then multiply it by the number of users.</p> <p>But this method will not work for the CPU recommendations. So specify the programming language your application was written in.</p>

11316

2019-06-12T01:40:37.260

|server|web-development|web-server|

<p>i have <strong>140 drivers &amp; 200+ not more than 300 bookings from passengers</strong> within 24 hours. So, i want to <strong>deploy my taxi app on a cloud server</strong>. Same uber concept but this one is using taxi. <strong>Can someone recommend me the amount of computing power i need to run this taxi app for a smooth transaction in a month. Like the amount of Ram, Storage, CPU's etc</strong> etc. </p> <p>Um using PHP LARAVEL 7, SQL XAMPP, CSS, HTML. </p> <p>Your help is highly appreciated. Thank you.</p>

How much computing power(Server Resource) i need to run my taxi app?

<p>A <em>server</em> is just another computer. Therefore, you don't need one in order to have a network between your two computers. Instead, you have a choice:</p> <ul> <li><p>You can purchase a <em>switch</em> and connect your both machines to the switch.</p> <p>The cheapest switches cost less than ten dollars, and allow to plug five or eight devices. Note that you also have to have two <em>Ethernet cables</em>. Ensure first that both of your computers have a <em>network adapter</em>.</p></li> <li><p>Or you can buy a <em>crossover cable</em> to connect the computers directly without a switch.</p> <p>While this solution is cheaper, it is also the least scalable. If, in the future, you would want to connect a third device, you wouldn't be able to do that if every device has only one network adapter.</p></li> <li><p>If you have a router, there is possibly a way to either connect two devices through Ethernet to it, or to use Wi-Fi. In this case, you don't need to purchase anything extra.</p></li> </ul> <p>Once you have your local network set up, you can start <a href="https://pytorch.org/docs/stable/distributed.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">exploring the capabilities of distributed computing</a>.</p>

11337

2019-06-14T13:18:42.040

|graphics-cards|

<p>I have a laptop with GPU 940M and a desktop with GPU GTX 980. Both are capable of performing deep learning task on their own using Pytorch or Tensorflow. </p> <p>How can I use them both together for a deep learning task? Do I have to connect them together through a server? </p> <p>If so, what are the keywords to search for a tutorial?</p>

How can I use two computers for deep learning?

<p>I ended up buying five fanless AMD APU-based Mini-ITX x86-64 motherboards on eBay: three of the Asus C60M1-I because that was all the seller had then one Asus E35M1-I and one Asus E35M1-I DeLuxe. These models of motherboards are from around 2011, still support legacy boot even though they use EFI instead of BIOS, and the r8169 driver for Realtek Gigabit Ethernet controllers in the Debian/Ubuntu releases from around 2011 to 2013 seems to work well with the Gigabit Ethernet controllers integrated on the motherboards. I am still using the same OS installations on the same physical SATA SSDs but, with a single order from Mini-Box.com, I used the picoPSU to eliminate the fans in the power supplies and used the M350 enclosure to shrink the chasses from full-size ATX to Mini-ITX, only 2.5 litres per computer except for the external AC adapter for the picoPSU and one of the computers has the third SATA SSD sticking out with the top of the chassis not installed because this model of chassis is only designed for one or two 2.5-inch drives so the third drive does not fit normally in the chassis. I placed the order on 2023‑08‑15 for six of the ENC‑M350‑PWR (M350 Enclosure with PicoPSU-80W and 60W adapter kit) at 79 USD each = 474 USD; six of the M350 HDD bracket for mounting a second 2.5-inch drive in the M350 enclosure at 2.79 USD each = 16.74 USD; and six of the “P4-POWER-MINI-Barracuda” “P4” Mini Power Cable for PicoPSU-80 at 1.35 USD each = 8.10 USD and with quotation marks because calling this cable a P4 as in Pentium 4 cable is both an anachronism and a misnomer because it is simply the 4-pin 12-volt CPU power cable for ATX12V motherboards covering many more generations and varieties of hardware than Pentium 4. Anyway, the subtotal is 498.84 USD plus 78.47 USD for DHL to deliver the single large parcel from Mini-Box.com in Fremont, California to me in Delta, British Columbia = total price 577.31 USD converted to CAD because I have a Canadian credit card account. This solution still works well since I assembled the Mini-ITX computers in the summer. I chose the 80-watt picoPSU board because apparently only the 80-watt model has the connector for the 4-pin 12-volt CPU power cable that is needed for the Mini-ITX motherboards I am using. The M350 enclosure/chassis has a black plastic cover for the front to hide a SSD or other USB device connected to the front USB connectors and presumably to dampen the light from the supernova blue LEDs on the front of the enclosure but I did not install these covers because they seem unnecessary. Even though all five of the Mini-ITX computers are on the desktop as in furniture in my bedroom, I can still sleep with the room lit by all of the supernova blue LEDs on the front of the enclosures but some persons may dislike all of this light at night. This model of enclosure does not have a reset switch nor a drive activity indicator light but I guess someone who is into hardware hacking more than me and wants these hardware features could add their own switch and LED to connect to the headers on the motherboard. I will try to add before and after photographs after posting this answer. Edit: I lost motivation to follow through on adding before and after photographs even though I already have photographs from months ago that I could use.</p>

11349

2019-06-15T23:43:32.690

|motherboard|sata|embedded-systems|mini-pc|fanless|

<p>Per the post subject, is there an x86 computer like this that I can still buy or otherwise acquire in 2019? Used or refurbished is OK as long as it is still reliable. I want a low-cost, low-energy, fanless, small, 80686 (including CMOV instructions, so VIA C7 is OK but VIA C3 is not) or x86-64 computer with at least three SATA ports using normal connectors, as used by 2.5-inch HDDs and SSDs, instead of mSATA to replace some full-size ATX tower computers with fans and using Core 2 and earlier hardware platforms. Ideally, I want to continue using the current installations of Ubuntu 10.04.x LTS for x86-32 from 2011 because it still works for my application so I want to avoid the chore of upgrading the OS only to use a newer computer. The primary market lifetime (correct term?) of x86 motherboards is frustratingly short for someone like me who still does not have a newer than Core 2 era x86 computer in 2019 because the Core 2 era and earlier x86 computers I use still suffice for my application. I use the same computer hardware until the hardware, such as through-hole electrolytic capacitors, fails. I have found some small, such as Mini-ITX, motherboards with at least three SATA ports using normal connectors but they seem to no longer be for sale by the time I find them, years after they were released. For example, here is a fanless AMD x86-64 Mini-ITX motherboard with six SATA ports using normal connectors:</p> <p><a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/C60M1I/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/C60M1I/</a></p> <p>Unfortunately, I cannot find anywhere that still sells this model. The hardware does not need to be current; the computers I want to replace use hardware platforms aged at least a decade. I really want to avoid the chore of upgrading the OS only to use a newer computer but I can try to upgrade the OS if necessary or maybe only retrofit a build of a newer than 2.6.32.x Linux kernel into the current installation of Ubuntu 10.04.x LTS from 2011. I think even a Pentium II computer will suffice for my application if it meets the SATA requirements. I need one Ethernet port, preferably (at least) Gigabit Ethernet; Fast Ethernet is the minimum. I prefer Intel over Realtek for Ethernet controllers but Realtek should suffice as long as it is reliable. I live in Canada. On NewEgg.ca , I can filter Mini-ITX motherboards to only those with at least three SATA ports, which eliminates all but two models. One of these models was eliminated because it costs over 1 000 CAD and I do not remember why the other model was eliminated. On Amazon.ca , I can narrow down motherboards to Mini-ITX but cannot filter the results by cooling type (fanless) nor by number of SATA ports. It seems that most models of Mini-ITX and smaller x86 motherboards only have up to two SATA ports using normal connectors. Some motherboards may have at least three SATA ports including mSATA sockets but the drives I am currently using are 2.5-inch or larger and I want to continue using them instead of having to buy mSATA drives. I bought 2.5-inch SATA SSDs instead of mSATA SSDs because I bought the drives for use with microATX or larger motherboards that use normal SATA connectors instead of mSATA; I thought it was better to reduce the number of connectors required to connect the drive to the motherboard to reduce long-term reliability problems caused by connectors than to have more modularity/interchangeability by using mSATA drives. As for the definition of “small”, I want microATX at the largest. As for “low cost”, I am used to paying &lt;=15 CAD for an Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 CPU and around 50 CAD for a used or refurbished Socket T AKA LGA775 motherboard when I buy five of the same model of motherboard at once. Yes, I realise that these computers have fans but I am trying to give an idea of what I mean by “low cost”. Anyway, Amazon has too many models of Mini-ITX motherboards to go through them one by one to see if any are fanless and have at least three SATA ports using normal connectors. I did find this Core 2 era Mini-ITX motherboard with four SATA ports using normal connectors but I do not know if it is feasible to use this motherboard without any fan?</p> <p><a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Jetway-NF93R-LF-Mini-ITX-Motherboard-Processors/dp/B003Y3TWFO/ref=sr_1_20?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;qid=1560625682&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A7328511011&amp;rnid=7328506011&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-20" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.ca/Jetway-NF93R-LF-Mini-ITX-Motherboard-Processors/dp/B003Y3TWFO/ref=sr_1_20?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;qid=1560625682&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A7328511011&amp;rnid=7328506011&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-20</a></p> <p>Edit #1: I prefer to buy x86-64 hardware in case I later need to use an x86-64 OS but, because I am currently using an x86-32 OS, I can still use an 80686 computer with CMOV instructions.</p> <p>I searched this database of single-board computers for x86 computers with SATA connectivity:</p> <p><a href="https://www.hackerboards.com/search.php?type=&amp;q=&amp;price_min=&amp;price_max=&amp;cpu_speed_min=&amp;cpu_cores=&amp;cpu_arch=x86&amp;ram_min=&amp;storage_min=&amp;sata=on&amp;lan_speed=0&amp;usb_min=&amp;gpio_min=&amp;dim_max_1=&amp;dim_max_2=&amp;weight=&amp;order=price&amp;order_d=a" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.hackerboards.com/search.php?type=&amp;q=&amp;price_min=&amp;price_max=&amp;cpu_speed_min=&amp;cpu_cores=&amp;cpu_arch=x86&amp;ram_min=&amp;storage_min=&amp;sata=on&amp;lan_speed=0&amp;usb_min=&amp;gpio_min=&amp;dim_max_1=&amp;dim_max_2=&amp;weight=&amp;order=price&amp;order_d=a</a></p> <p>but the only computers with at least three SATA ports looks like they will cost far too much and, regardless, they are overkill for my application.</p>

Recommendation for small, low-cost, low-energy, fanless, 80686 or x86-64 computer with at least 3 SATA ports using normal connectors instead of mSATA

<h2>The only notable difference between the two variants is the amount of VRAM</h2> <p>It's always nice to have the exta buffer, so I'd say go for the 8gb card, but if money is tight, there is nothing wrong with choosing the 4gb card. The only time it will really come into play is if you want to play a game, or run a simulation that is extremely demanding, i.e. that uses more than 4gb of VRAM.</p> <p>I myself have a 4gb and a 8gb card, and the amount of games that are affected by the difference is very little. All three of these cards will however be bottlenecked, but not a lot. So I'd say for future proofing, go for the 8gb variant!</p> <p>Edit - Another thing to look at are the display ports you'd be using. If you don't need a DVI port, rather go for the cards with DisplayPorts and HDMI ports</p>

11350

2019-06-16T02:18:53.357

|graphics-cards|

<p>I'm planning to buy a graphics card for my ryzen 3 2200g such as Rx570 and i m getting this from three OEM like Asus, Gigabyte And Msi These are the models :-</p> <ol> <li><p>Gigabyte Radeon RX570 4GB GDDR5 PCI-E Graphics Card <a href="https://www.amazon.in/Gigabyte-Radeon-RX570-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B06Y3RT952/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_3/258-1491696-2717612?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y3RT952&amp;pd_rd_r=0efcf766-8fdb-11e9-aa5b-718c334ba082&amp;pd_rd_w=GlGMm&amp;pd_rd_wg=3CHiL&amp;pf_rd_p=564155af-9230-4bd9-8c20-2acdbab6d7e3&amp;pf_rd_r=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> price 13k for 4gb</p></li> <li><p>MSI RX 570 ARMOR 8G OC Gaming 256-Bit 8gb Gdrr5 Directx Graphics Card <a href="https://www.amazon.in/gp/aw/d/B076Y93L8F/ref=psdcmw_1375354031_t1_B06Y5WGXX3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> Price 16k for 8gb</p></li> <li><p>ASUS ROG Strix Radeon RX 570 O4G Gaming OC Edition GDDR5 DP HDMI DVI VR Ready AMD Graphics Card (ROG-STRIX-RX570-O4G-GAMING) <a href="https://www.amazon.in/Strix-Radeon-Gaming-Graphics-ROG-STRIX-RX570-O4G-GAMING/dp/B06Y5WGXX3/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4/258-1491696-2717612?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y5WGXX3&amp;pd_rd_r=0efcf766-8fdb-11e9-aa5b-718c334ba082&amp;pd_rd_w=GlGMm&amp;pd_rd_wg=3CHiL&amp;pf_rd_p=564155af-9230-4bd9-8c20-2acdbab6d7e3&amp;pf_rd_r=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MAP4G0R9TV1C5GENHW5W" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> price 16k for 4gb</p></li> </ol> <p>Which of three will be worth buying and which has the top performance will 8gb by msi is better than asus rog 4gb line up any suggestions and explanation all i need i will like to do gaming on 1080p such as Pubg and GTA V etc and little bit Vmware, Android studio etc which of them will fit with ryzen 3 2200g to get the best performance.</p>

Which of them is worth buying

<p>I think you should be looking for an <strong>Ergonomic Mouse</strong>.</p> <p>Those are the mice that are longer and/or physically laid out for improved arm and finger positioning.</p> <p>Products like the <a href="https://amzn.to/2XlY4HP" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse</strong></a> or the (cheaper) <a href="https://amzn.to/2WPFSCk" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Anker Ergonomic Optical Wired Vertical Mouse</strong></a></p>

11353

2019-06-16T09:21:47.767

|mice|

<p>I'm looking for a mouse that's longer than the traditional standard mouse.</p> <p>Reason: I'm beginning to get minor pains in the forefinger and middle finger of each hand. (I swap hands frequently as soon as I feel any pain from one hand.)</p> <p>I've discovered that if I use a STRAIGHT finger (rather than a curved finger) to press a button, the pain almost disappears in any hand. </p> <p>Normally, my finger would contact the mouse on the TIP of the finger. But if I use a straight finger, I'm touching the button with the pad of my finger, very close to the first joint nearest the fingertip. So, my straight finger actually overhangs the front of the mouse, by about 1cm.</p> <p>So, I'm looking for a mouse that's about 1cm longer than the traditional mouse. (It would also need to be symmetrical, in other words it can be used with either hand.)</p> <p>The following Google search found nothing. The purpose of "-mat" was to eliminate the thousands of extra long mouse mats.</p> <pre><code>extra long mouse OR mice -mat </code></pre> <p>I would be grateful for any suggestions.</p>

Where can I get a longer mouse?

<p>The SSD you linked is an M.2 SSD. In order to connect it to a computer without an M.2 slot, you would need to purchase an M.2 to PCIe adapter card.</p> <p>However, given that you're planning to use the SSD to replace your failing hard drive, I'm assuming that you want to use it as a boot device. To my knowledge, NVMe drives are only supported as boot devices on Haswell CPUs or later, and even then, support is very patchy (M.2/NVMe support has only really become stable and standard in the last couple of generations of CPUs). Your motherboard has a LGA1155 socket and H61 chipset, which indicates that you have a Sandy Bridge processor. Additionally, the H61 chipset is the most basic chipset for this generation, and as such would not incorporate any new, experimental or upcoming features. Therefore, it is <strong>almost certain that your motherboard will not support an NVMe device for booting</strong>. </p> <p>Although it <strong>might</strong> be possible to use the NVMe SSD as a secondary drive, I suspect that you will run into many technical issues along the way which may render the SSD incompatiable with your system. I wouldn't recommend going down this route.</p> <p>Instead of buying an NVMe SSD, I would recommend simply getting a standard 2.5" SATA SSD. The speed difference between a SATA and NVMe SSD is usually not noticable during general use, and only really makes a difference if you are using the drive for read/write heavy workloads (e.g. as a scratch disk for video editing). The money saved from buying a SATA drive would also allow you to buy more storage for the same price. Finally, you are unlikely to run into any compatiability issues with SATA, whilst an NVMe SSD is almost certain to give you grief on older systems.</p>

11362

2019-06-17T07:42:11.490

|desktop|ssd|pcie|compatibility|

<p>For now I need to replace the current hard-drive because I heard some loud clicking this morning. I am not in a position to upgrade my full PC.</p> <p>My idea is to get the best storage I can with the aim of transferring it to an updated PC next year sometime.</p> <p>For this reason, I am not worried about whether the (discontinued <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/54876/intel-desktop-board-dh61ww.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel DH61WW</a>, ca. 2011) motherboard bottlenecks performance, etc as long as I can move whatever I buy into a modern Desktop later on (which would then be able to make full use of the NVMe SSD).</p> <p>I have tried looking into whether there is support. But I am having difficulty understanding whether an M.2 slot is required, or if a PCI-e 4x slot will suffice. Is it possible to install a converter (from PCI-e to NVME, etc).</p> <p><a href="https://www.evetech.co.za/intel-660p-512gb-nvme-ssd/best-deal/5674.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This is what I am looking into atm</a>. How does one find out whether I have what is needed to support it?</p>

Does Intel DH61WW motherboard support NVME in any form? Which is the fastest storage it can make use of?

<p>To show a QR Code it's enough a black/white display. The resolution should be equal or greater than the size (in rows/cols) of your QR Code. Check this <a href="https://www.qrcode.com/en/about/version.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">page</a> about QR Code versions.</p> <p>You can find serial display (SPI, I2C or UART) for few dollars. The size depends at which distance you need to read the QR Code (i.e. check <a href="https://blog.qrstuff.com/2011/01/18/what-size-should-a-qr-code-be" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>) </p> <p>About the controller: you didn't say if you need an Ethernet or WiFi connection. Anyway, you can choose whatever you want (or find) with at least:</p> <ul> <li>Ethernet / WiFi connection</li> <li>Serial port suitable for the chosen display</li> </ul> <p>For WiFi connectivity a NodeMCU or similar boards can do the job with a couple of dollars. If you need Ethernet it would cost more, either using an Arduino board with an Ethernet shield or any MCU with a WIZNet module connected.</p> <p>Of course you have to write the firmware to receive the data to display the QR Code on the display.</p>

11363

2019-06-17T07:53:51.287

|development|mini-pc|microcontroller|

<p>I need a device that can act as a server (accept and send HTTP requests), and display an image. I want it to be as cheap as possible. I know i can use a Raspberry Pi, but i need something cheaper. I've heard that i can use some of these: ARM Cortex M, STM32, Esp32. Any other recommendations ?</p>

What device should i use in this situation

<p>So after many hours of testing different methods to go for maximum volume (which was required) we ended up running 2 PoE lines and used a PoE splitter because it was significantly cheaper then running a power line (involves hiring an electrician and can get expensive. Very quick). </p>

11384

2019-06-19T13:32:30.670

|raspberry-pi|amplifiers|poe|

<p>I have been looking around and haven't been able to find an answer to this so hoping you guys can help.</p> <p>I have been tasked with finding a way to power a Raspberry Pi 3B+ (using the PoE Hat) as well as an Adafruit Amplifier remotely using only PoE power.</p> <p>Initially the thought came to me to use a PoE splitter but I was concerned about the split of power and if PoE would continue through to the RPi to power it or if it was only Data passthrough.</p> <p>My next thought was to use the 5V GPIO Pins on the RPi to power it but, I quickly realized that it wouldn't be enough power to get the speakers loud enough for the application.</p> <p>If anyone has had similar problems/solutions any assistance would be appreciated. Cheers</p>

Raspberry Pi 3B+ PoE Amplifier Suggestion

<p>Generally a laptop can only have one CPU. So unfortunately there is nothing that can be done on that side.</p> <p>For the graphics card it may be possible to upgrade to a desktop GPU using a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0791ZCH4Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thunderbolt GPU Enclosure</a>. This type of device requires a Thunderbolt connection on the laptop. The GPU will only output video to its own connectors so a separate monitor is almost always required. Lastly, these devices don't normally specify Linux support so you may need to figure it out on your own.</p> <p>Other bits of info that may be relevant:</p> <ul> <li>In theory some USB Type-C ports can work with a GPU enclosure. I'm not sure if the product exists.</li> <li>Older laptops with ExpressCard ports or the even older PCMCIA may also support GPU enclosures. But these adapters will be really hard to find.</li> </ul> <p>In my opinion, you are better off buying a new laptop to avoid the headaches and the expense of these adapters and a monitor.</p>

11397

2019-06-20T17:12:08.667

|graphics-cards|processor|

<p>I've got a low-end laptop (a Dell Inspiron, running Ubuntu) which satisfies 95% of my needs perfectly. It's not just that I like and it happens to be low-end; I like it <em>because</em> it's low-end. I like that it's light and thin, and that I don't have to be too paranoid about spilling tea over it.</p> <p>However, now and then I like to play video games; in particular, I really like <a href="https://www.paradoxplaza.com/crusader-kings-ii/CKCK02GSK-MASTER.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Crusader King II</a>. I tried installing this on my laptop, but it runs like ice-cold molasses, unplayably slow.</p> <p>So my question is, <strong>Is there any kind of hardware that I can plug into my current laptop, as you would a removable hard drive, that will allow me run to CK2 at a reasonable speed?</strong> Or would I have to get a whole new computer?</p> <p>I'm more than happy to be told this is a stupid question. I suspect it might be. But I thought I'd check before spending money.</p>

Plug in-able CPU/GPU?

<p>Page 2 of the <a href="https://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/pedge/T110_II_Spec_Sheet.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spec sheet</a> specifies the Drive Bays as</p> <blockquote> <p>Cabled options available:<br> Up to six 2.5” SATA SSD or SAS drives or Up to four 3.5” SAS, nearline SAS, or SATA drives</p> </blockquote> <p>and the drive types</p> <blockquote> <p>2.5” SATA SSD, SAS (10K)<br> 3.5” SAS (15K), nearline SAS (7.2K), SATA (7.2K, 5.4K)</p> </blockquote> <p>So I fail to understand why Dell spoke contrary to their own specifications. Perhaps another try may yield a tech there who's willing to actually read the spec sheet of your system? Or, <a href="https://www.cipher-it.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/ITCrow.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">have you tried turning it off and then turning it back on again</a>?</p>

11402

2019-06-21T11:58:48.130

|ssd|

<p>I would like to put two SSD drives into my T110 II and have two 3.5" bays free. I have read in various places that the T110 II doesn't support SSD natively, but I also have a PERC H200 controller with two conventional drives attached, and I have also read in a few places that this should work. All I need is a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter.</p> <p>When I e-mailed Dell to ask for a part number they told me that I can't fit SSD into my configuration, so now I don't know where I stand. They have been unhelpful and unforthcoming, and won't give me the part number I've asked for. They just repeat that it isn't supported and so don't do it.</p> <p>Please could someone settle this for me: can I put two SSD drives into my tower, in any configuration, but preferably RAID, and if so what adapter could I get to do it?</p> <p>Thanks in advance.</p> <p>Charles</p> <p>[EDIT] As suggested by K7AAY, the result from WMIC:</p> <p>Manufacturer: Dell Inc.</p> <p>Model: PowerEdge T110 II</p> <p>Name: MYSERVER</p> <p>SystemType: x64-based PC</p> <p>UPDATE: I purchased two Samsung V-NAND 860 QVO 2Tb SATA 6Gb/s drives and connected them to the two remaining cables in my server. Ctrl+C at boot-up to start the PERC H200 Config Utility and selected the drives in RAID 1 formation. It took nearly 24 hours to complete initialisation, but I discovered that I could actually use the drives during that time. They work perfectly, so yah boo sucks to Dell for bad (wrong) information. I have challenged them on this but they have not replied (no surprise there).</p>

Using SSD in PowerEdge T110 II

<p>A product like this is non-existent.</p> <p>Today's component sizes are way bigger than this, so it is not possible to fit those specs into such a small thing.</p>

11411

2019-06-23T08:45:11.910

|laptop|graphics-cards|pc|

<p>I'm looking for a super small computer that can have: 64gb DDR4 ram 3TB SSD or NVME or something smaller(physical size) Super fast processor, better than an intel i7 chip or smaller. And a super small but powerful graphics card allowing 8k video to a VR headset.</p> <p>The size of this computer has to be the size of an iphone SX MAX or three of them put together front to back.</p> <p>Price doesn't matter.</p>

Smallest but fastest computer?

<p>First, if you plan on using Windows Remote Desktop you will have the following issues:</p> <ul> <li>Input latency may be too high for some games</li> <li>Video streaming quality/compression &amp; latency may be untolerable</li> <li>Game controllers are not passed through</li> <li>DirectX games must be run in windowed mode</li> <li>OpenGL doesn't work at all unless the application is already running before connecting</li> </ul> <p>There are <em>better</em> remote desktop/streaming solutions available though:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://store.steampowered.com/streaming/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Steam In-Home Streaming</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.geforce.co.uk/geforce-experience/gamestream" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Geforce GameStream</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.nomachine.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NoMachine</a> (Still has some issues)</li> </ul> <p>Steam In-Home Streaming requires a device that can run Steam. Android supports it too. You can use Steam to stream <em>any</em> game installed on the server PC, not just games you own on Steam.</p> <p>Your GTX 1080 also makes you a good candidate for using Geforce GameStream, which requires either an Nvidia Shield device or another PC/Android device (using a third-party client). If I recall correctly, Steam In-Home Streaming uses the same GPU features as Geforce GameStream to encode/compress the video, so the video should look nearly the same.</p> <p>On to the hardware recommendation:</p> <p>A low-end PC with HDMI (thick client) would be all you need to experiment with all 3 of those streaming solutions. With low-end hardware you could even go as far as using fanless coolers and simply avoid connecting any LEDs that may bother you.</p> <p>If you want to keep cost down, an Android box should be able to use the new <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.valvesoftware.steamlink&amp;hl=en_US" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Steam In-Home client for Android</a>. These things can <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07MTCXZQZ" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cost as little as $60</a> and will work with the DualShock 4 controller over bluetooth. Of course an Android smart TV should be able to run this app too.</p> <p>Lastly, I am not aware of any solution to stream VR from one PC to another.</p>

11412

2019-06-23T16:22:50.827

|gaming|networking|remote-control|thin-client|

<p>So I have a TV in my room I'd like to able to use to remotely connect to my gaming PC from, but I am trying to find a solution for this that wont cost much.</p> <p>For context, I have the TV and PS4 in my room because they are both super quiet and dont interfere with my sleep. The gaming PC I keep in the office (just a room away) since the LED's and fan noise sometimes disturb my sleep, and I have a different setup for office use (coursework, game dev, etc).</p> <p>Basically, instead of buying a whole new gaming PC for the bedroom, I want to have a means to connect to it, play games, and use peripherals such as my PS4 controller/a Vive HMD without having them directly connected. All while running as quietly as a PS4 while in use, and totally silent when not in use.</p> <p>Now to the r/computerbuilding aspect.</p> <p>Ive thought of a couple options for how to make this work, but I want to explore some of the options more and see what would really be best before dedicating to a build.</p> <p>1) Smart TV My current TV doesnt have any wifi functionality so ive considered buying a smart 4k tv 55" (same dimensions as the current one). Costwise this is probably around the middle, id imagine a cost of 600 to 700 $, however id be upgrading to 4K as well. My concerns with this are that I dont think there is any way to actually control the PC (except maybe using CEC with the tv remote) unless I pair this with a thin client.</p> <p>2) Thin Client This would probably be very low cost compared to other solutions (200 or under), but I have little experience with thin clients. It seems since they dont use RAM or an HDD they run their own unique OS. So it seems it could be a bit more complex than using RDP from a Windows thick client. Also concerned that there may not be enough ports for USB peripherals, or that it could handle processing 4k/VR.</p> <p>3) Thick Client This would maybe run somewhere in the middle of the road but could potentially end up costing as much as #1. Maybe I am misunderstanding what a thick client is, but by my definition it is a low spec PC (has RAM and HDD vs the thin client) that can offer functionality itself (like running Windows and a browser/low usage apps on its own), but would primarily rely on the server (for my purposes likely via RDC) to offload the heavy processing. I like this option because I have more control and options for what hardware I use, specifically with more ports on the mobo), but I am used to doing ATX factor builds. Problem is, I am not sure I can make this small enough (would have to be smaller than MicroATX probably), cheap enough (ideally under 300$), and quiet enough (dont have experience with fanless/minimal fan builds) to be practical. I also expect a PS4 controller would probably work over RDC but I am less confident if a Vive would also work under this setup.</p> <p>So right now I am leaning towards 2 or 3 (I dont have pressing need for a TV upgrade), but I am a bit on the fence since this is somewhat unfamiliar territory for me.</p> <p>Here are some specs for my setups that might be relevant.</p> <p>Bedroom: 55" SHARP 1080p TV (manufactured something like 2013) PS4 Slim 5 channel speakers w/ sub Input/output audio mixers that mix audio between up to 4 devices, and outputs to 4 devices (the speaker system uses 3 of these lines for fine tuned control of channels)</p> <p>Office: 3x 21" Dell monitors, wall mounted Crosshair V Formula Z mobo housed in a Level 10 GT Thermaltake chassis AMD FX-8390 (a bit older but good performance for me), watercooled-single radiator ASUS ROG Strix 6GB GDDR5X GTX 1080 32GB (8x4)DDR3 Corsair Ballistix RAM 1000w XFX PSU - 80+ Titanium rated 2TB Samsung 850 Pro 2.5" SSD 3x 4TB Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM HDDs in Raid 5 for 8TB storage w/ parity (software raid via FlexRaid-T)</p> <p>And for internet 250mbps + 5ghz WiFi, networked w/ a 5-port unmanaged switch in office. Direct ethernet to PS4 and PC. May get a switch for the bedroom as well if more ports would help.</p> <p>Would be interested on hearing some thoughts and opinions on possible setups and which options may work better than others, or even alternatives im not aware of.</p>

Looking for solution for gaming via remote desktop

<blockquote> <p>I'd like to ask you what is CPU architecture, in an oversimplified way.</p> </blockquote> <p>This question isn't relevant to this Stack Exchange community, but I will try answer it before anyone flags or closes this question.</p> <p>A CPU architecture is basically a name for the design of a CPU; If many CPUs support the same features then it can be said that those CPUs share an 'architecture'. It is especially useful to programmers to know that they can write code once that will run on all CPUs that implement that architecture.</p> <p>The <code>os.arch()</code> function will usually return one of these two architectures on a PC:</p> <ul> <li>x86</li> <li>x64</li> </ul> <p>The 'x' in 'x86' is a sort of wildcard to represent any CPU from a family of CPUs which all shared a similar design &amp; instruction set. One such CPU was the Intel 80486, which is where the '86' comes from. Thus, 'x86' was adopted to refer to CPUs that implement this common architecture.</p> <p>Later on when AMD introduced 64-bit CPUs, they initially called this architecture amd64, but then Intel came up with their own design and soon the 'x64' term was invented to refer to 64-bit CPUs in general.</p> <p>The purpose of the <code>os.arch()</code> function is to identify the CPU architecture that your node application is running on.</p>

11415

2019-06-23T20:07:50.890

|processor|processor-architecture|

<p>I'd like to ask you what is CPU architecture, in an oversimplified way. I'm learning node.js and recently I saw a code <code>console.log(os.arch())</code>. The result was x64. What does that x means? Thank you! </p>

What is CPU architecture?

<p>If I understand correctly you want to test a core i5 4th gen cpu in the same Lga 1150 gen motheboard. There should be no problem. As long as it's still a 4th gen cpu on a 4th gen motherboard you will be good. About the drivers, I'd say update to the newest ones you can get, or if you're worried about security (Thank you Windows), rather wait until they are sure about their updates not being able to break your computer</p>

11431

2019-06-25T06:23:10.337

|processor|motherboard|windows|intel|

<p>I have a problem with a pc using intel core i7 gen 4. And would like to test it with other pc that using i5 gen 4. Is it Match vice versa with the mother board? And how about the driver installed in windows? Should I update?</p>

Processor replacement

<p>A web search for Lenovo flex 2 15 processor upgrade gave results that showed that the processor is Ball Grid Array (BGA) soldered so it is not upgradeable.</p> <p>While one can technically desolder and re-solder a BGA processor, it would require specialized equipment like a BGA rework station and a lot of skill. It's very unlikely you could find someone to do that for you for a reasonable cost that is less than replacing the laptop. That's if you could even find an appropriate processor to upgrade with.</p>

11457

2019-06-27T02:38:09.110

|processor|

<p>So I dug up an old laptop (Lenovo flex 2-15") because I was looking for something to potentially start gaming on just for fun in spare time and very strongly need a better cpu. It has a i3-4030U 1.9ghz core but the problem is that it is soldered to the motherboard. Is this something that can be undone by professionals and upgraded for cheaper than just buying a new laptop or finding a newer one to upgrade?</p>

replacing a soldered i3-4030u

<p>If the machine actually <em>crashes</em>, you won't be able to SSH it in order to reboot it.</p> <p>Since you say this is a server machine, your best guess would be to check how the machine is connected to the power grid. Most would be plugged into a <strong>PDU</strong>, and many PDUs can be <strong>administered socket by socket</strong>, so if the machine is unreachable, you can order the PDU to turn off, and then turn back on the specific socket. If the machine is connected directly to an <strong>UPS</strong>, you'll probably have a less granular control, i.e. you'll be able to <strong>turn on and off groups of sockets</strong>, but not individual sockets. It's up to you to determine, in this case, if there can be a reserved group just for this server.</p> <p>Once the power is back on, either the server is configured to boot automatically (or you can set this option in the BIOS), or you need to use <strong>Wake-on-LAN</strong> to force it to turn on. Check with your system administrator about the security aspects of Wake-on-LAN, since in many locations, Wake-on-LAN packets would be blocked by default.</p> <p>If, instead, you're talking not about a hardware server, but a virtual machine, things should be much easier: check the documentation for the virtualization technology that you use in order to know how to force reset a VM.</p>

11467

2019-06-27T22:38:53.340

|remote-control|power-control|

<p>To avoid long explanations:</p> <ol> <li>I have an old server with old code that hosts important data ;</li> <li>The configuration for a new machine will take me a while ;</li> <li>But the old machine MUST run all the time ;</li> <li>The old machine crashes regularly and I have to manually turn it off and on again ;</li> </ol> <p>Is there a device that allows me to remotely turn the computer off and on again by ssh (or something else) and plug it into the power switch pins ?</p>

Remote physical reboot

<p>Considering 4GB Ram for app development (and if not heavily resource intensive app development like games, design, cad, etc requiring more than 4GB) on a 2012 MacBook Pro - upgrading the HDD to a 500GB+ SSD will provide the greater performance. I recommend at-least 500GB so you can keep at-least 30%+ free SSD space to maintain optimal performance. There's an instant performance increase waiting for anyone running an OS on an SSD with less than 30% free space - free up over 30% and enjoy.</p> <p>The performance of <a href="https://pureinfotech.com/why-solid-state-drive-ssd-performance-slows-down/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SSDs declines after having less than 30% free space</a> due to the way they distribute the read/write operations more effeciently across completely empty blocks rather than fragmented blocks - although you still don't need to defrag SSDs, they automatically re-arrange the data as needed, but with additional data fragment arrangement processes when the free space is too low (even with TRIM enabled to help with deleted/marked-deleted files). This performance drop is even more prominent in near-full HDDs and moving data seeking platter(s) and needle(s) but due to different ways of handling read/write operations for nearly full (more fragmentation prone) drives.</p> <p>For RAM, having enough to run the OS and needs is first priority - to stay away from using the Virtual Memory backup (additional Virtual RAM on the slower HDD/SSD). After this, topping off your speed from the minimum to the maximum supported by your Motherboard+CPU can provide some additional performance but usually not as significant of an increase as switching from HDD to SSD and increasing RAM capacity on a system that constantly relies on Virtual Memory (doesn't have enough RAM to meet your needs). Faster memory speed is more noticeable in specific applications, but many mistaken it to significantly help increase things like FPS in gaming which is more dependent on the CPU and GPU. Often the cost/performance ratio may not be worth the upgrade if you're only increasing the ram speed a few levels up what's supported, but going from the minimum to maximum supported by a Mobo+CPU may still be worthwhile after the storage speed and capacity are taken care of first. </p> <p>TL;DR: Replacing an HDD with an SSD is usually the best way to revive &amp; boost an older system like a 2012 MacBook Pro.</p> <p>Notes: -New MacBook Pros have RAM soldered to the motherboard and can't be upgraded without replacing the entire board with the same compatible board with more RAM (rage table flip indeed). </p> <p>-Be sure to check the maximum RAM capacity and speed supported by your motherboard (verify CPU support on the RAM speed too). All 2012 MacBook Pros support up to 16GB Ram.</p>

11479

2019-06-30T06:03:04.317

|memory|ssd|

<p>What should I upgrade ram or SSD? I have a MacBook pro mid 2012 with 500gb hdd hard drive and 4gb ram. I am a mobile app developer by profession. My hard drive is mainly free with 400+ gb free space. So Should I upgrade the ram or change to SSD?</p>

Upgrade ram or SSD?

<p>Before explaining what's <strong>Video Capture rate</strong>, let's read what's <strong>Refresh Rate</strong> and <strong>Frame Rate</strong>.</p> <h1>Refresh rate:</h1> <p>Refresh rate represents how many times the actual TV, video display, or projected <strong>screen image is completely reconstructed every second</strong>. The idea is that the <strong>more times the screen is "refreshed" every second, the smoother the image is</strong> in terms of motion rendering and flicker reduction.</p> <p>In other words, the image looks better the faster the screen can refresh itself. <strong>Refresh rates</strong> of televisions and other types of video displayed are measured in "Hz" (Hertz). For example, a television with a 60hz refresh rate represents a complete reconstruction of the screen image 60 times every second.</p> <p>As a result, this also means that each video frame (in a 30 frame per second signal) is repeated twice every 60th of a second. By looking at the math, one can easily figure out how other frame rates relate to other refresh rates.</p> <h1>Frame rate:</h1> <p>Remember those cool little flip books where a pad of paper had an image on every page, and when you flipped through the pages quickly, the image would appear to animate and move? This is essentially how video works. Whether digital or old-school film, <strong>video is a series of still images</strong> that, when viewed in order at a certain speed, give the appearance of motion.</p> <p><a href="https://techsmith-13.wistia.com/medias/bzujp1kl5e?embedType=async&amp;videoFoam=true&amp;videoWidth=640" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://techsmith-13.wistia.com/medias/bzujp1kl5e?embedType=async&amp;videoFoam=true&amp;videoWidth=640</a> </p> <p><strong>Frame rate</strong> is the speed at which those images are shown, or how fast you “flip” through the book and it’s usually expressed as “frames per second,” or FPS. <strong>Each image represents a frame</strong>, so if a video is captured and played back at 24fps, that means each second of video shows 24 distinct still images. <strong>The speed at which they’re shown tricks your brain into perceiving smooth motion</strong>.</p> <h1>Video Capture rate:</h1> <p><strong>Video Capture rate</strong> is just on how many FPS (<strong>Frames Per Second</strong>) the video will be <strong>captured/recorded</strong>. As we read above, with more FPS the video stay smoother, and with less FPS, it stays more "laggy".</p> <p>Now let's talk about</p> <h1>GPU Frame rate:</h1> <p><strong>FPS can easily change</strong> while you're using the computer. <strong>Heavy tasks</strong> like playing games can <strong>decrease your Frame Rate</strong>, while just using your Browser it's almost not going to change your Frame Rate (<strong>FPS</strong>).</p> <p>Higher resolutions decrease Frame Rate (<strong>FPS</strong>), since the image to load is heavier.</p> <p>There are many ways of <strong>increasing your FPS</strong>, I suggest <a href="http://blog.logicalincrements.com/2014/06/frames-per-second-5-simple-tips-to-boost-your-fps/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> website.</p> <h1>Related:</h1> <blockquote> <p>How is the frame capture rate and Refresh rate depends upon each other?</p> </blockquote> <p>Remember that <strong>FPS is how many frames your computer is producing or drawing</strong>, while the <strong>refresh rate is how many times the monitor is refreshing the image</strong> on the screen. The refresh rate (<strong>Hz</strong>) of your monitor does not affect the frame rate (<strong>FPS</strong>) your <strong>GPU</strong> will be outputting. However, if your <strong>FPS</strong> is higher than your refresh rate, your display will not be able to display all of the frames your computer is producing, so although the refresh rate doesn’t technically limit the frame rate, it does effectively set a cap.</p> <blockquote> <p>If I have 60Hz monitor then how much fps Video Capture card needed so that I don't want to loose any frame while capturing through video?</p> </blockquote> <p>As we read above, the refresh rate (<strong>Hz</strong>) doesn't really matter if we're speaking about frame rate (<strong>FPS</strong>), so just record your video at <strong>60 FPS</strong> and it's all set.</p> <p><br/></p> <p>Sources: <a href="https://www.lifewire.com/video-frame-vs-screen-refresh-rate-1847855" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.lifewire.com/video-frame-vs-screen-refresh-rate-1847855</a>, <a href="https://www.techsmith.com/blog/frame-rate-beginners-guide/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.techsmith.com/blog/frame-rate-beginners-guide/</a>, <a href="https://www.avadirect.com/blog/frame-rate-fps-vs-hz-refresh-rate/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.avadirect.com/blog/frame-rate-fps-vs-hz-refresh-rate/</a> and my knowledge.</p> <p><br/></p> <p>I hope this satisfies your doubts.</p> <p>Brhaka</p>

11521

2019-07-04T12:07:41.023

|video-adapters|video-editing|video-capture|video-game-console|

<p>What exactly difference between Video Capture rate, Frame Rate and Refresh Rate in video processing ? Can we change FPS of CPU graphics ie. rate of Frame per second or not? if yes then how ?</p>

difference between Video Capture rate , Frame Rate and Refresh Rate in video processing

<p><strong>It is supposed to be this way.</strong></p> <p>Those jumper pins are not used to be connected to <em>something</em>. Instead, you use <em>jumper shunts</em> to connect the pins together. A jumper shunt, by the way, is this thing that you can see on many motherboards, or on all old IDE hard disk drives:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOjcj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOjcj.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The goal is to be able to specify a bunch of options, such as slowing the transfer rate down, or, in the case of IDE drives, it was used to distinguish between the master and the slave. The exact use of those jumpers depends on the manufacturer and the model. In the case of Seagate Momentus 5400.6:</p> <blockquote> <p>If the host system does not support SATA 3Gb/s operation, place a jumper on pins 1 and 2 to limit the drive to 1.5Gb/s operation.</p> </blockquote> <p>^{Source: <a href="https://www.seagate.com/staticfiles/support/disc/manuals/notebook/momentus/5400.6%20(Wyatt)/100528359e.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PDF manual</a>, page 32.}</p> <p>It doesn't tell what would happen if you put a jumper shunt on pins 2 and 3, or 3 and 4, or put two jumpers together.</p> <p>Notice that the manual tells explicitly on page 2 that:</p> <blockquote> <p>It is not normally necessary to set any jumpers or other configuration options.</p> </blockquote> <p>Therefore, just use an ordinary enclosure, connecting SATA <em>and</em> power.</p>

11555

2019-07-09T00:49:57.563

|hard-disk|drive-enclosure|

<p>So I have an old HP laptop which died years ago. I removed the 2.5 Seagate HDD and wanting to use it as external hdd.</p> <p>However I am confused as to what type of enclosure should be used.</p> <p>Fyi I have little knowledge in hdd and all that stuff, so I found out there are 4 'jumper pins' .</p> <p>The problem is when I browse the available enclosure they only have the SATA connectors and the jumper pins doesn't seem to connect anywhere. At least from my perception</p> <p>I just wanna make sure before buying Is this okay/supposed to be this way?</p> <p>Thanks in advance</p> <p>*Im using stackexchange app and it doesn't allow me to post images, I dont know why But the HDD is 320GB Seagate Momentus 5400.6</p>

2.5 inch HDD enclosure with jumper pins?

<p>The small one is <em>not</em> the SATA Express connector. Each SATA Express connector consists of two ordinary SATA connectors <em>and</em> the small one, all in line.</p> <p>Here, you see two SATA Express connector on the motherboard: a used one and a free one:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/00MCX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/00MCX.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Similarly, here's a SATA Express cable:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFXib.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFXib.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>You may also be interested by <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/7843/testing-sata-express-with-asus/2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">What Is SATA Express?</a> article.</p>

11573

2019-07-11T18:27:48.537

|motherboard|sata|

<p>My motherboard AX370-Gaming K5-CF has 2 Sata Express ports as depicted in the manual in page 17 between the normal sata ports. </p> <p><a href="http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Manual/mb_manualga-ax370-gaming-k5_e.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Manual/mb_manualga-ax370-gaming-k5_e.pdf</a></p> <p>On top of the ports it says "Lotes"</p> <p>I was wondering what cable fits in there. I bought a standard esata cable online but it's double the size this port has. The cable I bought is this one but it's double the width. Like a normal sata cable whilst the port is half the size</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBZ6e.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBZ6e.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

What type of esata cable should I buy to connect to this port on my MB?

<p>RDP support multiple monitors, you can check that option in the client settings.</p> <p>The number of monitors depend on the client, not the server. </p> <p>If the remote OS support it, it will work. </p> <p>Make sure your apps working well on remote session by connect to your current pc from a different one.</p> <p>See Server OS restrictions here: <a href="https://support.steadfast.net/Knowledgebase/Article/View/107/0/using-multiple-monitors-with-windows-remote-desktop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://support.steadfast.net/Knowledgebase/Article/View/107/0/using-multiple-monitors-with-windows-remote-desktop</a></p> <blockquote> <p>When connecting to Windows 7 computers, only computers that are running Windows 7 Enterprise or Ultimate can be connected to in multi-monitor mode. When connecting to Windows 8.1, only computers that are running Windows 8.1 Professional or Enterprise can be connected to in multi-monitor mode.</p> </blockquote>

11600

2019-07-15T17:22:35.247

|multiple-monitors|

<p>Currently, I am using 3 monitors on my desktop PC as I run a software with many windows and I save and restore the layouts(work space) of these widows.</p> <p>I am planning to move to the could and was wondering how this would work in the cloud world. What I am not quite clear about 1. Can I configure the cloud VM to have 3 monitors just like the way I have it 2. Or am I thinking about this wrong, I just expand the RDP window across my monitors and then just work with it. </p> <p>Please provide any insights as to how is it generally done in a multiple monitor setup. </p>

Multiple Monitors Remote Desktop VM in Cloud

<p>Going by <a href="https://gpu.userbenchmark.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://gpu.userbenchmark.com</a>, calculating "value" with the following equation:</p> <p><code>("Effective 3D Speed" / Price in Dollars)</code> and assuming your price bracket is at most $500, which seems to be about 2/3 of the cost of your computer, and assuming that ray tracing hardware is unimportant, the <strong>AMD RX 5700 XT</strong> appears to be your best "value" options.</p> <p>Compare the "value" of the <strong>RX 5700 XT</strong> to other popular graphics cards:</p> <hr> <ul> <li>RX 580 - <strong>0.39</strong></li> <li>RX 5700 XT - <strong>0.36</strong></li> <li>RX 5700 - <strong>0.36</strong></li> <li>GTX 1660 Ti - <strong>0.34</strong></li> <li>RTX 2060 SUPER - <strong>0.29</strong></li> <li>RTX 2070 SUPER - <strong>0.28</strong></li> <li>RTX 2080 SUPER - <strong>0.23</strong></li> <li>RTX 2080 Ti - <strong>0.19</strong></li> </ul>

11625

2019-07-18T11:23:29.073

|graphics-cards|gaming|performance|

<p>Which Graphics card will be the best value for money for this configuration? Suggestion will be appreciated.</p> <ol> <li>Processor: <code>Core i5 9600k</code></li> <li>Motherboard: <code>Gigabyte Z390UD</code></li> <li>Ram: <code>Corsair Vengeance LPX 1x16GB 3200MHz</code></li> <li>Storage: <code>SSD 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 250GB</code></li> <li>Power Supply: <code>Antec 550Watt</code></li> <li>CPU Cooler: <code>Cryorig H7</code></li> </ol>

Best money for value GPU for Core i5 9600k processor and 16GB Ram

<p>Don't get confused. Go for </p> <blockquote> <p>NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti</p> </blockquote> <p>This would be best GPU for your configuration at $270</p>

11641

2019-07-20T10:56:11.280

|graphics-cards|

<p>I bought my pc six years ago and now want to replace my graphcis card.</p> <p>I'd like to play the upcoming games like Starfield and maybe The Elders Scrolls 6 with this new card. I'm looking for a product that costs around 300 euros and is compatible with the other pieces of my computer.</p> <p>Here is my computer spec: </p> <p><strong>Graphics card :</strong> AMD Radeon 7850 HD 2 Go</p> <p><strong>Screen resolution:</strong> 1920 x 1080</p> <p><strong>Motherboard :</strong> ASUS H97M-E</p> <p><strong>Power supply:</strong> Antec Basiq 500 Watts</p> <p><strong>Processor:</strong> Intel i5 4690 3.5 GHz</p> <p><strong>RAM :</strong> 2 x 4 Go DDR3</p> <p><strong>Operating system :</strong> Windows 10 </p> <p>Thanks for your help.</p>

Graphics card replacement for a 6 year old pc

<p>Try to buy a laptop with at least below configuration</p> <p>Processor: Intel core i5 (8th gen or Above) RAM: 8Gb DDR4 Storage: 256Gb SSD</p> <p>You can go for 16gb if you want to spend little more. This configuration will kill all kind of programming IDE's required hardware specifications.</p>

11656

2019-07-23T08:05:27.820

|laptop|processor|intel|

<p>I've just started a Diploma of Software Development (Australia), and I'm wondering what specs I should look at in a laptop.</p> <p>I am looking at putting an i9 in my desktop soon for video editing, and so I'm wondering if I will be able to get by with a Surface Laptop 2 with an i5 and 8GB RAM. I'd prefer not to spend $2k on a laptop so I can spend more on the PC, but I'm completely inexperienced with creating Windows Programs. We're coding mainly in C# and so it'd be nice to be able to test programs during my 2 hours of train riding each day.</p>

Which Laptop for Software Development?

<p>Nowadays, this isn't really possible - as of now (2019), there are no laptops that have exchangeable GPUs that I'm aware of. However, eGPUs are a way that you can upgrade the GPU of a laptop, though they lack the portability of an inbuilt GPU and are typically rather expensive.</p>

11686

2019-07-27T12:09:36.390

|laptop|graphics-cards|

<p>I'm about to buy a new laptop computer. I might want a better NVidia GPU on my own computer in the future, and it would be great to keep that option open without buying an expensive machine right away.</p> <p>I didn't find such information on any laptop available online, so I fear this generally does not exist, at least not for lower-cost models. This <a href="https://www.pcworld.com/article/2923779/how-to-upgrade-graphics-in-a-laptop.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PCWorld article</a> from 2015 suggests that it's possible for some laptops made by the manufacturer Clevo.</p> <p><strong>The question:</strong> Are there laptop computers in the range of 1000-1300€ (-1500 USD) that allow to upgrade the GPU? If not, what would be the minimum price for such a computer, if they exist? </p>

Do Laptops exist that allow to swap the GPU?

<p>Except for #2 a standard ATX power supply for a PC. If you can find a small PCB with screw adapters, you can cut off the molex/sata end solder them to the PCB. Short the 2 pins together on the ATX 20/24 pin plug and you have power.</p> <p>I know this adapter is $10 + $3 shipping and handling, but it works with any ATX PSU. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xs7LQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xs7LQ.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07KDX5CK8" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Supply-Breakout-Module-terminal/dp/B07KDX5CK8</a></p> <p>So that plus the PSU could put you slightly over the budget, but you can re-use the adapter on any future PSU.</p> <p>Newegg also has</p> <p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/p/2S7-01JK-0ECN9?Description=power%20supply%20atx&amp;cm_re=power_supply_atx-_-9SIABKSACR7267-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/p/2S7-01JK-0ECN9?Description=power%20supply%20atx&amp;cm_re=power_supply_atx-<em>-9SIABKSACR7267-</em>-Product</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1JlHC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1JlHC.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>This one has 2 12v which combined would be 29A</p> <p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16817159046?Description=power%20supply%20atx&amp;cm_re=power_supply_atx-_-17-159-046-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16817159046?Description=power%20supply%20atx&amp;cm_re=power_supply_atx-<em>-17-159-046-</em>-Product</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i7a.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i7a.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

11690

2019-07-28T18:38:16.100

|home-electronics|

<p>I have a bunch of 5V devices (Raspberry Pi and Arduino devices, and LED strips) that need a power supply. I'm currently using a bunch of transformers from BTF Lighting (the ones shown on the image below, not the black ones) which work well, but have one major caveat: <strong>they all consume four to five watts of power, even when not powering anything at all</strong>.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEK3A.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEK3A.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>When the number of those devices is limited, this is not a big deal. However, as I do more and more “smart home”-type projects, 5W multiplied by the number of transformers remaining on permanently starts to be problematic.</p> <p>Ordinary phone USB chargers have a consumption of less than 0.1W when not powering anything. I would be glad to use them, but they are mostly rated 2A or 3A. This is perfectly fine if I need to power a Raspberry Pi, but not OK for a LED strip (5V, 4A transformers from BTF Lighting were heating a lot when used with one strip + Raspberry Pi + Arduino, so I'm relying on 5V, 12A transformers, or on 20A transformers when needed).</p> <p>So, where can I find a transformer which would match the following requirements?</p> <ol> <li>Be as energy efficient as the high quality USB phone chargers.</li> <li>Have the same format as the transformers on the image above (i.e. screw connectors).</li> <li>Have 5V 12A and 5V 20A variants.</li> <li>Include over-voltage protection and short-circuit protection.</li> <li>Cost less than $40.</li> </ol>

5V transformers rated 12A or 20A which are energy efficient

<p>Some things to consider:</p> <ul> <li>the i7 is not that much better than the i5 (<a href="https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-5600U-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6300U/m22612vsm27864" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-5600U-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6300U/m22612vsm27864</a>)</li> <li>T460 has full size HDMI output and ethernet port</li> <li>X1 is thinner and lighter (more portable)</li> </ul> <p>I would go with the <strong>T460</strong> because of the additional RAM and storage. I think you will be able to use it longer.</p> <p>That being said, <strong>both are great laptops</strong>.</p>

11702

2019-07-31T04:30:24.313

|laptop|

<p>I am currently deciding between two laptops:</p> <ol> <li>ThinkPad T460 with 512 GB SSD, 16 GB RAM, &amp; i5-6300U</li> <li>ThinkPad X1 Carbon with 256 GB SSD, 8 GB RAM &amp; i7-5600U</li> </ol> <p>(Both Refurbished)</p> <p>The X1 is a fairly new model, much more so than the T460, but it has lower RAM and storage than the T460, an older model with better RAM and storage. The X1 is superior in terms of CPU, however.</p> <p>I want to pick the laptop that will have a longer lifespan and will give me solid performance overall for the tasks that I will which include:</p> <ul> <li>Software Development in Python, C++, Java (VS Code and Github Desktop)</li> <li>Browsing with 15-20 tabs open (max)</li> <li>Working with Wolfram Mathematica</li> <li>Basic work with CAD software</li> <li>A lot of ML</li> </ul> <p>Video/Photo editing will have a frequency of rare to none.</p> <p>Which laptop is better for my purposes?</p>

ThinkPad T460 with high RAM/Storage & i5 or ThinkPad X1 Carbon with medium RAM/Storage & i7?

<p>I decided that the device I'm looking for does not exist. I created it by combining a DAB+ radio with a Bluetooth transmitter.</p> <p>DAB+ radio: <a href="https://www.vr-radio.de/DAB-Digitalradio-im-Holzgehaeuse-FM-2-Weckze-ZX-1771-919.shtml" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.vr-radio.de/DAB-Digitalradio-im-Holzgehaeuse-FM-2-Weckze-ZX-1771-919.shtml</a> Bluetooth transmitter: <a href="https://www.ugreen.com.cn/products/bluetooth-4-2-audio-transmitter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ugreen.com.cn/products/bluetooth-4-2-audio-transmitter</a></p>

11714

2019-08-01T13:16:41.413

|bluetooth|headset|

<p>I am looking for a device which offers</p> <ul> <li>FM radio or DAB radio</li> <li>No wifi connection required</li> <li>Can be plugged into a power socket (no batteries)</li> <li>Allows to connect a Bluetooth headset to listen to the music.</li> </ul> <p>I have been looking online, and I found this device: <a href="https://www.pure.com/nl/dab-radio/products/move-t4/black" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.pure.com/nl/dab-radio/products/move-t4/black</a></p> <p>But if possible, I would like to have something a little cheaper.</p>

FM/DAB radio which allows to connect bluetooth headset

<p>Both will be lightning fast. After investigation, the 970 is only a bit faster on sequential transfer such as big files, and a bit slower on games and program folders; i.e. for video seeking it will be faster. FireCuda accumulates all the advantages (speed by small margins, twice lifetime/reliability (like 970 Pro), 25% lower price).</p> <p>[1] <a href="https://www.pcmag.com/review/366078/samsung-ssd-970-evo-plus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.pcmag.com/review/366078/samsung-ssd-970-evo-plus</a></p> <p>[2] <a href="https://www.pcmag.com/review/368665/seagate-firecuda-510" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.pcmag.com/review/368665/seagate-firecuda-510</a></p>

11731

2019-08-03T18:05:54.310

|ssd|video-editing|

<p>For an intensive video processing workflow (lot of sequential reading and seeking), I selected the 2TB Seagate FireCuda 510 SSD M2 and the 2TB Samsung 970 Evo Plus; they have few differences:</p> <ul> <li>FireCuda has better endurance: 2.6TB written, 1.8Mh MTBF vs 1.2TB written, 1.5Mh MTBF (970 Evo Plus)</li> <li>FireCuda has better price: 293EUR vs 366EUR (970 Evo Plus, 25% more expensive)</li> <li>970 Evo Plus has slightly better read/write speeds: (3.5GBps, 3.3GBps, 620kiops, 560kiops) vs (3.45GBps, 3.2GBps, 485kiops, 600kiops)</li> </ul> <p>The other features are not significantly different. What do you recommend for my usage?<br> I already have a 970 Evo Plus 1TB for the system and for a part of the scratch work; both SSD will be on the Z390's PCIe channel.</p>

NVMe drive for video intensive work

<blockquote> <p>Acer Aspire E15 at $599.99</p> </blockquote> <ul> <li>Intel Core i5-8250U 1.6 GHz</li> <li>Ram - 8GB DDR4</li> <li>NVIDIA GeForce MX150</li> <li>Storage - 256GB SSD</li> <li>15.6” FHD IPS (1920 x 1080)</li> <li>Battery Life - 15 hours</li> <li>Windows 10 Home</li> </ul> <p><strong>* 256GB SSD is far more faster than 500GB HDD *</strong></p> <ul> <li>You can visit the link given below to buy or see the specifications</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B075FLBJV7" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FLBJV7?creativeASIN=B075FLBJV7&amp;linkCode=w61&amp;imprToken=G5aW3AJR5gr.83YRFgeJIw&amp;slotNum=5&amp;tag=bestlaptopsworld-20</a> </p>

11737

2019-08-05T02:55:20.743

|laptop|

<p>I don't know if this is the place to ask this but I'll try anyway. Asking for a friend so I won't be able to provide all the information. </p> <p>They want a general purpose laptop to use for school and a little bit of gaming. The gaming won't be high end at all so it doesn't need to be super powerful or anything. A few requirements are below.</p> <p>Windows 10<br> 8 GB of RAM<br> 512 GB Memory<br> $500 - 600</p> <p>If any other information is needed ask and I'll try to find out</p>

I would like to find a laptop for general purpose use and a little gaming

<p>There are many kind of LED strips, however, if you work with Raspberry (or any MCU), I guess you want to use addressable led strips (like WS2811, WS2812, WS2813).</p> <p>The reason is that you can switch on the Red/Green/Blue color of each LED separately.</p> <p>If you don't want that, use non addressable LED strips (of course these are cheaper).</p> <p>The difference between WS2811, WS2812, WS2813 is (among others) the fact that if one LED is broken, the remainder of the strip still works.</p> <p>Also there are LED strips who can handle water/liquid slightly better (for outdoor use).</p> <p>Some differences (from <a href="https://www.suntechleds.com/info/what-is-the-difference-ws2811-vs-ws2812b-vs-ws-34944590.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Differences</a>):</p> <ul> <li>WS2811 is the old version with external IC , it often made to DC12v addressable strip light, has only one signal too but it is mature for many years.</li> <li>WS2812B LED strip has only one data signal when one pixel dies, the signal cannot pass through,</li> <li>WS2813 digital LED strip, you can see as updated version of WS2811 addressable LED strip, it has double signals even one signal is broken, others can still work well, because the signal can pass through,</li> </ul> <p>(Update after remark from Arseni below):</p> <p>Except for a led strip you also need:</p> <ul> <li>A microcontroller (to control it), if you have an addressable led strip</li> <li>A library (at least for 'beginners' to be able to control it, for the microcontroller you use</li> <li>Your own code, to let the program make the colors you want, and when</li> <li>An external power source, if you have more than a few LEDs (not LED strips, but separate LEDs), you need an external power source that is strong enough.</li> <li>For some (older) LED strips you might need a resistor, on newer types it's built in; same for a capacitor.</li> </ul>

11748

2019-08-05T22:05:52.507

|led|

<p>I want to start a project using java to make led strips in my room react to the audio being played (preferrably via mp3 on my phone/pc, not just through picking up on sound in my room). However, I don't know what LED strips i need/what to look for in them that would allow me to control them via a java program and not their built-in music sync programs.</p> <p>I know there are LED strips like these: </p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07RHHJHM3" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/HeySuun-Changing-Controller-Flexible-Bedroom/dp/B07RHHJHM3/ref=zg_bs_17534489011_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HENJ83K2ECF719Y3E3ME</a></p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07SR1HY8L" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/L8star-Bluetooth-Smartphone-Controller-Decoration/dp/B07SR1HY8L/ref=zg_bs_17534489011_32?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HENJ83K2ECF719Y3E3ME</a></p> <p>But I don't know if I would be able to control those via my own program (probably running on a Raspberry Pi board). So basically, <b>what LED strips would allow me to control them via a "music sync" program of my own?</b></p>

Which LED strips should I buy for a music sync project?

<ol> <li>Use any single-board minicomputer, for example, RaspberryPI, with an LCD screen</li> <li>Use the tablet with the battery removed. The circuit diagram depends on the tablet model and the type of battery. In most cases this works.</li> </ol>

11815

2019-08-14T08:51:54.403

|wifi|touchscreen|smart-home|

<p>I use Logitech media server, installed on a NAS, to stream music. I like using my android tablet to control the server. And I would like to always see what track is playing. But I don't like to keep the tablet's screen on in the background for long periods of time, in order to conserve the battery. I could buy another, cheap, tablet and keep it always plugged in to the mains, but I would prefer that it wouldn't have a battery (out of concerns that it might overheat or explode).</p> <p>So, is there a cheap, small device with a screen and wifi, that doesn't have a battery and runs connected to the mains? Something like a mounted wall display, I guess.</p>

Cheap, small device that has wifi and touchscreen, and can run a browser

<p>So after looking extensively for a single host that would meet these requirements, it does appear as the size restrictions cannot not be met without breaking the budget.</p> <p>However, I did find an ideal solution; x3 micro-form-factor <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-uk/work/shop/desktop-and-all-in-one-pcs/optiplex-3060-micro-desktop/spd/optiplex-3060-micro" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell OptiPlex 3060</a>'s. Each supports 2 monitors/4k screens via HDMI and DisplayPort outputs. I used DP/HDMI adapters to support up to 6 screens total. (although I only need 5.)</p> <p>They also fit on a 1U shelf perfectly (2 will sit side by side on a shelf.) As for the budget they came in well under £900 meaning they where over £300 under budget.</p>

11816

2019-08-14T09:03:04.520

|server|displays|

<p>I am trying to spec a rack mountable server to power 5 large screens, each of which will use HDMI to connect to the server.</p> <p>The screens will be used in an IT Operations room and will be displaying browser based dashboards via grafana, nagios etc, so the IT technicians can monitor the environment.</p> <p>The resolution needs to be good enough to read small text, charts and graphs. There is no strict requirement for 4k , although if possible within the budget, 4k would be great. </p> <p>My budget is between £1000 to £1400 GBP ($1200 to $1650 USD.)</p> <p>The server needs to be mounted within a comm's cabinet, if required the form factor can be a tower type and placed on a rack tray.</p> <p>The dimensions can be no greater than;</p> <ul> <li>18cm High (7 inches) </li> <li>45cm Deep (17.7 inches) </li> <li>50cm Wide (19.6 Inches)</li> </ul> <p>Ideally the server would be a Windows server, although *nix will be acceptable if it is right for the task. Additionally although I do enjoy the build it yourself approach, this is for an enterprise environment so ideally it would be as 'out the box as possible', although I do not mind if graphics cards need to be swapped out or display adapters need to be used.</p> <p>For reference I had looked at <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-uk/work/shop/workstations/precision-3930-rack/spd/precision-3930r-workstation/xctopr3930emea" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell Precision 3930</a>, with dual <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/PNY-NVIDIA-Express-Professional-Graphic/dp/B06X9YKPNN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NVIDIA Quadro P400</a> and HDMI display adapters, but it is to large for the comm's rack.</p>

Rack mounted server for x5 HDMI display screen

<p>Actually, pricing is one of the least important things to check for a company.</p> <p>What is more important, and what can influence your manager much better, is to write down, what it SAVES when you have faster/better computers.</p> <p>Example: Assume to compiler a full build takes 30 minutes on a slow computer and 10 minutes on a fast computer. This saves the developer approximately 10 minutes (assuming he cannot do much useful stuff in the mean time). Assuming a salary of 50 dollars/hr, saving ten minutes saves 50 * (20/60) = 16.67 dollars.</p> <p>Assume you do 10 builds per week, it saves 167 dollar per week. When the faster computer cost 1000 dollars more, after 1000/167 = 6 weeks, the computer is paid back.</p> <p>The complication is that sometimes it's hard to calculate (what if your manager says you can do something useful in the waiting time? Probably you have context switching time loss etc). </p> <p>But in general, if the faster computer can saves you considerable time, the salary losses outweighs the cost of a computer by far.</p>

11821

2019-08-15T12:24:44.977

|laptop|desktop|

<p>It would be very helpful if you could share this, because I'm trying to convince my boss that my company's budget is not adequate, but I can't find any relevant data anywhere to prove my point.</p> <p>If you can, please specify if computers are desktop or laptop and the renewal rate of the hardware. The size of the company would also be interesting to know.</p> <p>I'm grateful for any response.</p>

What is your company's budget for computers used for software development?

<p>I think what you're looking for is an RF Modulator that works on typical computer video outputs (such as VGA, HDMI, or DisplayPort). I did a little looking and found <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hdmi%20rf%20modulator" rel="nofollow noreferrer">some on Amazon</a>, so I know that it's possible, though I don't have any experience with any of them to actually recommend one over another. I don't know if it might be easier to find a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06W9LQDBB" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HDMI-to-RCA adapter</a> that you then connect to a more "normal" (or at least easier to find) <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0014KKV7W" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RCA RF Modulator</a>. (All those links are just for examples; there are plenty of products from plenty of brands and plenty of retailers out there.)</p> <p>Note that in order to share "the full screen", you'll need to use a pretty low resolution on the computer, just because NTSC and PAL don't have that many lines of video available compared to what people are used to nowadays.</p>

11824

2019-08-15T23:23:06.760

|video|

<p>I wonder what's needed to transmit analog TV using a computer.</p> <p>The requirements would be:</p> <ul> <li>Using a computer as source. </li> <li>Ability to share the full screen.</li> <li>Any PAL or NTSC Tuner. </li> </ul> <p>Multi-channel transmission would also be nice, maybe using multiple desktops for different channels and multiple virtual audio cards for each channels audio.</p> <p>Preferably a PCI-E Card one could just connect to an antenna cable but an SDI Graphics Card with some external "converter" would also be an acceptable solution.</p> <hr> <p><em>I've found very little information on this on the web but while working at a computer store I once got my hands on a PCI card I think did just this for hotels</em></p>

Transmitting analog TV using a computer

<p>After looking around I discovered that OpenWRT firmware can be set up to do exactly what I want, and that GL.iNet products come pre-installed with OpenWRT. So I am going to try a <a href="https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-ar150/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GL-AR150</a></p>

11829

2019-08-17T00:04:40.910

|wifi|networking|network-adapter|

<p>I have a couple of systems that I need to connect to my WiFi that only have access via an Ethernet port. When looking around I see a ton of cheap WiFi extenders/APs that have built in Ethernet ports, but from what I can see online these can only be configured as WiFi extender (creating a shadow WiFi network) or as an AP (creating a new WiFi network).</p> <p>What I am after is something that bridges my WiFi to Ethernet but does not act as an extender or AP. Does such a thing exist? Or can things like the <em>Netgear AC1200 WiFi Range Extender</em> or <em>TP-Link RE350 AC1200 Wi-Fi Range Extender</em> actually be configured as I want? </p> <p>I can't tell from looking at the user manuals online, and I don't want to drop $20-$30 just to find out that a device can't do what I want.</p>

WiFi to Ethernet bridge that is not an extender or AP

<p>A quick search shows you might have some luck with Beaglebone or Beagleboard with regards to emulation. OTOH those boards are cheaper then most JTAG debuggers.</p> <p>I know of three companies manufacturing Cortex-A processors which have openly downloadable documentation:</p> <ul> <li>Texas Instruments (theirs are in the Beaglebone)</li> <li>NXP</li> <li>ST Microelectronics</li> </ul>

11848

2019-08-21T09:16:53.233

|embedded-systems|sbc|

<p>I'm looking for a SBC/µC board for an university lab course. The objective of the course is to teach various levels of hardware-related programming, from simple bare-metal ISR in assembler, till complex OS mechanisms in some more high-level language (C, Rust).</p> <p>My requirements are: </p> <ol> <li>A hardware base with a well structured and possibly not to complex design (no i64; RISC-V would be nice, but also ARM, or even Z80)</li> <li>Fine-grained documentation of the whole board <em>without any hidden</em> parts (that excludes the RasPi)</li> <li>A good emulator (of the board, not only of the processor) to allow to do a big deal of programming offline</li> <li>Sufficient memory for an OS (i.e., the most AVR-based systems are knocked out) </li> <li>JTAG and some video (VGA/DVI/HDMI...) would be nice </li> <li>Performance is not an issue at all</li> </ol> <p>What systems should I consider?</p>

SBC for educational purposes

<p><strong>Question moved to <a href="https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/101860/long-range-interface-between-a-raspberry-pi-and-a-smartphone/101866#101866">raspberrypi.stackexchange.com</a></strong></p> <p>Visit <a href="https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/101860/long-range-interface-between-a-raspberry-pi-and-a-smartphone/101866#101866">raspberrypi.stackexchange.com</a> for the solution.</p>

11860

2019-08-23T07:26:19.317

|wifi|smartphones|raspberry-pi|

<p>I would like to control a <strong>Raspberry Pi 4</strong> with my smartphone (for my drone). Now I'm looking for an interface between the RPi and my Android phone.</p> <p><strong>Requirements</strong>:</p> <ul> <li>Control with a web interface or app </li> <li>Range: at least <strong>1 km (0.62 miles)</strong>.</li> <li>Data rate: I don't need a high data rate, because I don't want a camera live stream. I only want to send small commands, like forward, backward, ...</li> <li>Fast connection -> max. 0.5 second: Phone -> RPi</li> <li>No license (for special frequencies)</li> <li>One-time purchase -> No monthly fees</li> </ul> <p>Here are some that I have looked at, but do not meet my requirements:</p> <h2>- Use a sim card for the RPi:</h2> <ul> <li>Websocket connection over a server -> web interface</li> <li>Unlimited range</li> <li><strong>Monthly fees</strong></li> </ul> <h2>- Use the RPi as Access Point</h2> <ul> <li>Connect the phone with the RPi-Wifi -> web interface</li> <li><strong>I think: to low range</strong></li> </ul> <h2>- Connect my phone with a self-built antenna e.g. with RFM95W</h2> <ul> <li>Connect the antenna with USB-C to my phone</li> <li>App</li> <li><strong>I must program a driver</strong></li> </ul> <h2>- Bluetooth</h2> <ul> <li><strong>To low range</strong></li> </ul> <p>Thanks for your Hardware Recommendations!</p>

Long range interface between a Raspberry Pi and a smartphone?

<p>Looks like Delock has made one explicitly called <a href="https://www.delock.com/produkt/85812/merkmale.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB-C to bidirectional DP Alt mode Cable!</a> Everyone, hooray for <a href="https://www.delock.com/produkt/85812/merkmale.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Delock!</a></p>

11877

2019-08-26T12:16:24.843

|usb|hdmi|thunderbolt|video-adapters|cable|

<p>This is 2019.</p> <p>Is there any adapter that can display the video signal of a HDMI/DP device like a tv-box, PC or Notebook to a thunderbolt 3 Display?</p> <p>The other way around doesn't count.</p> <p><strong>Edit:</strong> <a href="https://www.delock.com/produkt/85812/merkmale.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Delock has made it!</a> It should be at least compatible with all USB-C Alt mode compatible displays.</p> <p>They also have good HDMI male to DP female adapters with an extra usb for power on the HDMI side, not at 4k@60hz like on the first cable, but still.</p>

HDMI/DP PC to USB-C Thunderbolt 3 Monitor

<p>Intel does announces the end-of-life for their CPUs, you can check the status of a specific CPU model on <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/series/75024/4th-generation-intel-core-i5-processors.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">their website</a>.</p> <blockquote> <p>[are they] still manufacturing and supporting the older generation of processors?</p> </blockquote> <p>It is possible that a few specific CPU models are still being manufactured at the request of a significant customer or for providing long-term support.</p> <blockquote> <p>does this mean that at some point in time, that specific company (Advantech) bought an over abundance of these processor and now they are continuing to sell these industrial PCs until they run out?</p> </blockquote> <p>That is a valid explanation if you see that it is "Discontinued" on the website; Most socketed CPUs from the 4th generation are, and the ones that still say "Launched" are almost entirely CPUs that would never have been sold in a retail box or stand-alone. (They are mobile CPUs to be installed by an OEM.)</p> <blockquote> <p>Does this mean that they are selling Intel processor that are past the life cycle and a different hardware industrial PC should be selected?</p> </blockquote> <p>I would look for newer hardware anyways, especially for a fanless system since the newer generation chips use less power to provide the same (or better) performance.</p>

11903

2019-08-29T18:54:12.680

|processor|pc|mini-pc|intel|processor-architecture|

<p>I recently did a little research on several different industrial embedded computers for a project that I am working on. It turns out that a lot of these industrial fan less PCs can be purchased with the Intel 4th Generation Intel® Core™ i5 Processors, which had a launch date in 2013. </p> <p>Since these are new industrial PCs, does this mean that even though Intel is marketing 8th, 9th, 10th and so on processor, they are still manufacturing and supporting the older generation of processors? </p> <p>Or does this mean that at some point in time, that specific company (Advantech) bought an over abundance of these processor and now they are continuing to sell these industrial PCs until they run out?</p> <p>Does this mean that they are selling Intel processor that are past the life cycle and a different hardware industrial PC should be selected?</p>

Does Intel manufacture older generations of Intel Core processors?

<p>You could buy a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00EJ8CKRU" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4-port SD card hub</a> for ~US$63. </p> <p>However, you could easily make your own: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01FFY5640" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SD card readers</a> are available for less than $US2, and a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07PDBNVGN" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4-port USB hub</a> for ~US$6, so you could assemble a similar 4-SD card hub for <p>You don't state your purpose, so it's hard to understand what you need.</p> <ul> <li><p>If you're trying to make copies of SD cards, e.g. as OS for a batch o microprocessors, there are <a href="https://www.amazon.com/slp/sd-card-duplicator/y4dqz8gwsbgc4gn" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SD drive duplicators</a>.</p></li> <li><p>If you're trying to simulate a "drive carousel" or <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000069JWX" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CD/DVD array</a>, be aware that flash memory is much slower than SDD or HDD, and more expensive than HDD. A large HDD could be partitioned into a virtual array of disks.</p></li> </ul>

11915

2019-08-31T13:39:26.047

|hard-disk|data-storage|raid|raid-controller|

<p>I need a disk array like those which we can just add a new hard disk but using sd cards rather than disk. Does it exist?</p> <p><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6b/HP_EVA4400-1.jpg/440px-HP_EVA4400-1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6b/HP_EVA4400-1.jpg/440px-HP_EVA4400-1.jpg</a> (something like this but with sd cards or micro sd cards)</p>

Does exist a SD card disk array?

<blockquote> <p>Can the HDMI input of the Dell monitor U3219Q handle a 4k@60fps input signal?</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes.</p> <p>The footnotes on that page of the manual can be rephrased like this:</p> <blockquote> <p>Supports HDMI 2.0, but without optional specifications ... such as 4K digital <em>cinema</em> resolution (4096 x 2160).</p> </blockquote> <p>If you look at the page right above "Electrical Specifications" you can see that the monitor does support <code>3840 x 2160 @ 60hz</code> as long as the video device supports HDMI 2.0.</p> <hr> <p>And another note on 4K terminology:</p> <p><code>3840 x 2160</code> and <code>4096 x 2160</code> are both casually called "4K" but to avoid ambiguity the former is referred to as "UHD". The Digital Cinema Initiatives (DCI) have used "4K" for their <code>4096 x 2160</code> resolution too, so it is more specific to refer to that as "DCI 4K" or "Cinematic 4K", which is what Dell has done in your manual.</p>

11960

2019-09-05T16:09:00.477

|monitors|hdmi|4k|

<p>I'm search for a monitor that can handle an input signal of 4k at 60fps, over its HDMI input.</p> <p>I've found the Dell Ultrasharp U3219Q that have a HDMI port. As you can see in <a href="https://downloads.dell.com/manuals/all-products/esuprt_display_projector/esuprt_display/dell-u3219q-monitor_user%27s-guide_en-us.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">its online manual</a>, page 14 in the table :</p> <blockquote> <p>Ports and connectors : 1 x DisplayPort version 1.4 (HDCP 2.2)• 1 x HDMI port version 2.0 (HDCP 2.2)</p> </blockquote> <p>But, in page 16, again in the table :</p> <blockquote> <p>Electrical specifications</p> <p>Video input signals : HDMI 2.0*/DisplayPort 1.4**, 600 mV for each differential line, 100 ohm input impedance per differential pair</p> <p>...</p> <ul> <li>Not supporting HDMI 2.0 optional specification, including HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC), Audio Return Channel (ARC), standard for 3D format and resolutions, and standard for 4K digital cinema resolution. ** HDR is supported, but HBR3 is not supported; DP 1.2 is supported.</li> </ul> </blockquote> <p>So, this is an HDMI 2.0 input port, but it doesn't support HDMI 2.0 specification ? What am I supposed to understand there ?</p> <p>Does anyone have this monitor and can attest if this port allows or not a 4k@60 input signal ?</p> <p>Thank you !</p>

Can the HDMI input of the Dell monitor U3219Q handle a 4k@60fps input signal?

<p><a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-amg8833-8x8-thermal-camera-sensor/raspberry-pi-thermal-camera" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AMG8833</a> is a popular thermal camera which has an accuracy of 2.5 °C (4.5 °F). The benefit is that it's commonly used, and has a pretty decent support. The drawback is its tiny resolution, 8×8 pixels only. It costs around $40.</p> <p><a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14843" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MLX90640</a> is another, although less popular, choice, with its increased resolution of 32×24 pixels and an accuracy of 1.5 °C. You can get it for $70. Using one is more difficult than AMG8833, especially regarding to the hardware requirements:</p> <blockquote> <p>Please be aware that the MLX90640 requires complex calculations by the host platform so a regular Arduino Uno (or equivalent) doesn't have enough RAM or flash to complete the complex computations required to turn the raw pixel data into temperature data. You will need a microcontroller with 20,000 bytes or more of RAM. To achieve this, we recommend a Teensy 3.1 or above.</p> </blockquote> <p>For $240, you can get <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14654" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lepton 2.5 thermal camera module</a> which comes with an impressive resolution of 80×60 pixels, but a disappointing accuracy of only 5 °C.</p> <p><a href="https://www.flir.com/browse/camera-cores--components/thermal-camera-cores/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Flir website</a> lists more models, including <a href="https://www.flir.com/products/lepton/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lepton 3.5 camera core</a> with its 50 mK thermal sensitivity (the same as 2.5 version) and a resolution of 160×120 pixels. The camera core seems to be sold for about $270, but I can't find it in a form of a module to be used with Raspberry Pi.</p> <p>Or you get more specialized models such as <a href="https://www.flir.com/products/neutrino-performance-series/?model=425-0039-00" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Neutrino SX12</a> with a sensitivity of 25 mK and a resolution of 1280×1024 pixels. You'll need something other than a Raspberry Pi to power that thing. I can't find its price, but I won't be surprised to find that you have to pay more than a thousand dollars for a device like that.</p>

11964

2019-09-06T03:51:44.403

|raspberry-pi|camera|arduino|

<p>I am Currently Looking for a Thermal Camera which either has an lcd screen which can be be extended away from the camera or simply a high quality thermal camera which can be programed into an lcd. Prefferable at reasonable price that is. Another option that I'm open to also i buying a premade thermal camera but i dont really know which ones can detect small scale temperature differences (I.E Pests on walls or the Ticks on the body of a dog. </p>

Small Form Factor Thermal Camera

<p>The motherboard specifications say the following about your M.2 port:</p> <blockquote> <p>1 x M.2 Socket 3 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280 SATA &amp; PCIe x4/x2/x1 SSD support)</p> </blockquote> <p>That means <em>any</em> M.2 drive should be supported by your motherboard. Except drives that are wider than 22mm, or longer than 80mm. (2280 = 22 x 80 mm)</p>

11987

2019-09-10T14:45:23.777

|motherboard|ssd|data-storage|

<p>I'm looking to get rid of my old HDD (my xbox HDD is dying so prob put it in that) and replace it with an SSD. I would like to make use of the M.2 port on my motherboard if I can. </p> <p>This is my motherboard <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/uk/Motherboard/GA-B150M-D3H-rev-10#ov" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H</a></p> <p>I had looked at getting this <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073SB2MXT/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WD Blue</a> but just before hitting buy I noticed that the transfer rate wasn't what I was expecting. </p> <p>I don't know much about M.2 so I'm not sure what kind will work with my motherboard.</p> <p>Any help would be appreciated.</p>

Looking for a compatible M.2 drive for my motherboard

<p>Routers and WiFi devices have to undergo <a href="https://www.wi-fi.org/certification" rel="nofollow noreferrer">certification</a> to have the "WiFi" branding. Any router that does not have a 2.4 Ghz radio would not be backwards compatible with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11" rel="nofollow noreferrer">IEEE 802.11 b/g/n</a> and may not qualify for the "WiFi" branding.</p> <p>I have never seen a "WiFi" router with only a 5 Ghz radio. But you can disable the 2.4 Ghz radio in many routers though. It is possible that a router with only 802.11ac support can exist, but it may be hard to find a product like that using the "WiFi" brand as a search term.</p> <p>For now, I would not recommend seeking out a product that explicitly avoids having a 2.4 Ghz radio. It wouldn't be guaranteed to work with other WiFi devices unless it was WiFi certified too. Some day the WiFi Alliance may decide to deprecate the 2.4 Ghz standards and this answer may no longer be correct.</p>

11993

2019-09-11T17:06:26.367

|wifi|wireless|router|

<p>Are there any consumer-priced, <strong>single</strong>-band (5GHz / 802.11ac only) WiFi routers, i.e., ones that <em>only</em> have a 5GHz radio?</p>

Single-band, 5GHz only WiFi router?

<p>An 8-bit display can use <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frame_rate_control" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FRC</a> to expand its perceived color range. It essentially dithers a pixel between two colors in time rather than with neighboring pixels.</p> <p>Many monitors do this, in fact a lot of displays that support "16.7 Million Colors" (24-bit Color) are actually 6-bit panels using FRC.</p> <p>If you are trying to decide between monitors, I wouldn't let this detail become a deciding factor. You are very likely looking at a monitor right now that uses FRC and you may not have noticed. It would be hard for most people to notice the quality improvement of a true 10-bit panel <em>without</em> FRC vs 8-bit with FRC.</p>

12038

2019-09-17T19:30:41.463

|displays|

<p>I'm looking into buying an Asus pg65uq when it's available, but I noticed something strange - it claims to support HDR10 while at the same time only supporting 8bit color. Doesn't those two contradict each other? </p>

8bit panels and hdr

<p>Two assumptions first:</p> <ul> <li>by <em>architecture</em> you actually mean <em>platform</em>. ARM is not up to standard with performance yet and Power9 seems over budget for you</li> <li>your 1000$ budget is for CPU and motherboard (if it is just for the CPU please comment and I will adjust my answer)</li> </ul> <p>In the current market and in your budget you will likely not be able to get a better CPU.</p> <p>The Ryzen 9 3950X is supposed to come out soon but it is supposed to be 50% more expensive by MSRPs from the launch event. Counting by retail prices in my country (Poland) this will put the X570-A PRO + 3950X at around 1150 USD. Of course the price might be different in different countries.</p> <p>Another option is to invest that money in the overall build quality, primarily the motherboard and cooling, and try to eke out more performance but the returns here are minimal.</p> <p>Personally, if you are unable to stretch your budget or wait for the 3950X, I would spend maybe 50$ on a bit better motherboard and keep the rest for the next GPU upgrade.</p> <p><strong>Edit:</strong> I don't know much about the data transfer patterns in ML vs games, but ML uses much more memory so it might benefit greatly from PCIe 4.0 once next-gen GPUs implement it </p> <p><strong>Edit 2:</strong> new release from AMD states that we are two months off from the 3950X, not a week or two as originally planned</p>

12051

2019-09-19T10:56:45.850

|processor|motherboard|

<p>I'm looking for an upgrade from my i5 6600. Workload - ML prototyping in Keras and heavy IO, compression etc.</p> <p>I'm considering Ryzen 9 3900X + MSI X570-A PRO. What architectures in this price area (around 1000$) would you recommend, having in mind mostly multicore perforformance per $?</p>

CPU for Machine Learning

<p>If you are using Linux there is something called <a href="http://www.linux-magazine.com/Issues/2018/208/Tutorial-USB-IP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB over IP</a>. There are is even a <a href="https://derushadigital.com/other%20projects/2019/02/19/RPi-USBIP-ZWave.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tutorial on setting it up on Raspberry Pi</a>. So grab a 30$ single board computer and you are done. There was some Windows effort on this but it seems dead now.</p> <p>Otherwise if the distance is not that big and your computer (a notebook presumably) supports it I would look into USB-C docking stations. Some of them are even integrated into displays. Or just a high-performance USB hub. Once I have seen an (expensive) USB 3.0 extender with active devices on both and which used about 30 meters of fiber.</p>

12069

2019-09-23T03:02:26.450

|usb|ethernet|hub|

<p>I'm wondering whether such a device exists.</p> <p>The following shows what I'm asking about:</p> <pre><code>+----------+ +---------+ | | | +&lt;----&gt; USB #1 | Computer +&lt;----------&gt;+ USB Hub +&lt;---------&gt; USB #2 | | Ethernet | +&lt;-----------------&gt; USB #3 +----------+ +---------+ </code></pre> <p>So the computer would connect via Ethernet to a device which "transforms" the TCP or UDP packets in USB signals. The advantage would be that we'd have full speed for all the USB's on a 10Gb network.</p> <p>The USB #1/2/3 is where I'd connect my mouse, keyboard, stick drive, printer, etc.</p> <p>Here is my complete list of devices at the moment:</p> <ul> <li>Keyboard</li> <li>Mouse 1 (middle mouse button)</li> <li>Mouse 2 (wheel)</li> <li>Printer</li> <li>Scanner</li> <li>Audio Device</li> <li>Phone (data transfers for video/pictures)</li> <li>USB Stick</li> </ul> <p>I also have a need for USB Power to recharge the phone, although that's not mandatory. My server has only 4 ports on the back. There is one which is internal. And also it has two for the front panel, but it is on a head which is not compatible with the case cable connector.</p> <p>One reason I need more ports now is that I do not have PS/2 connectors on this new server. My old one used the keyboard/mouse on its PS/2 connectors. Miscalculation on my part, although I did not expect the front panel connection issue.</p>

Are there USB hubs that connect to an Ethernet port?

<p>Rather than rugged, think repairable/replaceable. You could use any mount and adapt it to take a length of 2 mm dia. (12 gauge) copper wire. If bent, it can be straightened by hand, and if broken, replaced for &lt; <p>An advantage of the less robust approach is that soft copper wire is less likely to cause damage to the harvester if ingested, or to personnel. Think "just small potatoes".</p>

12083

2019-09-24T11:11:21.253

|rfid|

<p>I'm building an RFID scanning apparatus, which is going to be attached to a potato harvester, and I'm trying to find a suitable antenna. Because of where said antenna is going to be placed on the harvester, it will have to be extremely rugged. The word <em>rugged</em> in this context means:</p> <ul> <li><p>It can withstand being bashed against various surfaces: the ground, wooden boxes, hedgerows, etc. (I thought perhaps a "whip" kind of antenna, which could bend rather than break under pressure, might be suitable, but I don't know where to find one.)</p></li> <li><p>It is resistant to damage from wind and rain.</p></li> </ul> <p>Any suggestions?</p>

Bendable UHF Whip Antenna for RFID Scanner

<p>By your comments you are looking for a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network-attached_storage" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Network Attached Storage</a>. Instead of buying a regular PC, buy a dedicated device, like <a href="https://www.qnap.com/en/product/series/home" rel="nofollow noreferrer">one of these QNAP NASes</a>.</p> <p>If you absolutely must do it yourself any PC which can run your OS of choice would suffice for a small team. What you may want if you are going with Windows is to get a motherboard which supports RAID and use it.</p>

12102

2019-09-26T07:58:04.977

|server|nas|

<p>I need to know the cheapest but best quality server that can host data (not games) for a college esports team. it will mostly be used for holding game files and documents for the team. I do not have access to Windows Server and am trying to make it work on Windows 10.</p>

Need help with file server

<p>Belkin Thunderbolt 3 Dock Pro (<a href="https://www.belkin.com/thunderbolt-3-dock-pro/P-F4U097.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.belkin.com/thunderbolt-3-dock-pro/P-F4U097.html</a>) seems to have what you want, a TB3 port to charge your laptop and a TB3 port for a monitor, with external power. CalDigit TS3 Plus (<a href="https://www.caldigit.com/ts3-plus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.caldigit.com/ts3-plus</a>) has TB3 both upstream and downstream, but the website mentions using DP for the monitor... not sure if you can use the downstream TB3 for the monitor.</p> <p>Or you can upgrade to a MBP, and then use iVANKY products, which are the best on the market and you can rock quad 4K displays with TB4.</p>

12115

2019-09-28T04:33:46.227

|usb|hub|

<p>I got a new laptop (ThinkPad X1 Carbon) but it only has one USB-C port. I also have a USB-C portable monitor (Asus ZenScreen) that gets its power and data through the single port USB-C connection to the laptop.</p> <p>So now I have both devices sucking battery life with no way for me to provide external power.</p> <p>There are plenty of USB-C hubs that can pass power through to the laptop, while also providing signal output, though it seems only to full VGA, HDMI, DisplayPort outputs, none that have USB-C output....</p> <p>Is this a limitation of the USB specification?<br> Or is it a rare use-case and not enough vendors out there building such hubs?</p>

Is there a USB-C hub for USB-C power input and USB-C display output?

<p>You can use a male-to-male 3.5mm audio cable like <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0793KTNJY" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a> to connect the music calculator to the PC's microphone or 'AUX' jack. It will work just like a microphone.</p>

12169

2019-10-08T18:02:04.037

|audio|

<p>I have a music calculator, which has an audio output port. So I can plug in headphones or speaker on it.</p> <p>But now i want to connect it to a computer as input signal like microphone.</p> <p>Is there any convertor or circuit can solve the problem? Or any good idea or recommend? Thanks for helping.</p>

How to convert an audio output signal to input signal?

<p>There is a series called STM32WB with integrated WiFi and Bluetooth, there is a <a href="https://www.st.com/en/evaluation-tools/p-nucleo-wb55.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">STM32WB Nucleo</a> available.</p> <p>There is also an <a href="https://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/products/evaluation-tools/product-evaluation-tools/mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-discovery-kits/32f413hdiscovery.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">F413 discovery board</a> but it doesn't have Bluetooth, WiFi only.</p>

12238

2019-10-19T11:54:54.343

|sbc|

<p>I am seeking an STM32 with wifi, BT, display and on-board debugger (I think that they all have that, but am not 100% sure; I don't want to use a JTAG probe). Does anyone know of one?</p>

Seeking an STM32 with wifi, BT, display and on-board debugger

<p>I understand and feel your pain in an almost daily occurrence! </p> <p>I personally use the Sony WH-1000XM3. I find it to be a lot better than the Bose you mentioned. It's a bit cheaper than the Bose as well. </p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07G4MNFS1" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon Link for the headset</a></p>

12260

2019-10-22T08:32:51.437

|headphones|

<p>I work in an office that can be very chatty at times. In order to concentrate during noise peaks, I need headphones with very good noise cancellation. I tried the Bose QC35 when they were released, since they allegedly had some of the best noise cancellation. This was before ANC was nerfed by firmware updates.</p> <p>But they just did not cut it for me. While the active noise cancellation is pretty good overall, it does a poor job at filtering out voices and speaker phone calls. Adding more noise to drown the ambient noises (i.e. playing music) works, but only if I set the volume so high that it gets distracting by itself.</p> <p>Are there any ANC headphones that do a better job than the Bose QC35, especially for cancelling out conversations and phone calls? Using passive noise cancellation would not be socially accepted in the environment I work at, so ANC headphones it is ;)</p>

Noise-cancelling headphones better than Bose QC35

<blockquote> <p>is there a hardware setup that is affordable</p> </blockquote> <p>The kind of device you are looking for is called a <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=video+wall+controller" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Video Wall Controller</a> and they are typically a commercial-use device for store signage, billboards, restaurant menus, etc.</p> <p>Many of them are actually standalone devices that render their own output from a video file or website, and do not always support direct video input. Make sure you any model you are interested in <em>does</em> have a video input.</p> <p>They are in the ball park of $1000 for one that can do up to 8 displays.</p> <hr> <blockquote> <p>But I do not have enough ports for them and I am using GTX 1080 to handle my 3 main displays setup</p> </blockquote> <p>You can sometimes install more than one GPU in a computer, and for $1000 you could definitely find a GPU that supports 6 displays using DisplayPort outputs. Many GPUs can support small (2x2, 1x3, etc) video walls with hardware acceleration, so it is a proper "hardware" solution. Each monitor will probably also need an <strong>active</strong> DisplayPort adapter unless they have a DisplayPort input.</p>

12266

2019-10-23T00:26:10.500

|monitors|multiple-monitors|splitters|

<p>So I got a whole bunch of monitors (A LOT) and from the collection there are about 6 identical 17" 4/3 ratio monitors that I wish to make a grid from (3x2 forming 12/6 or 2/1 wide ratio). I want all six displays to form one display and be connected to one port on my computer. So in other words, I want them acting as sub-displays.</p> <p>I know it is possible to achieve this using software and by having all monitors connected directly to the computer. But I do not have enough ports for them and I am using GTX 1080 to handle my 3 main displays setup (this should be an extra). And I also wish for the configuration to work with my laptop when necessary (has HDMI port). </p> <p>Therefore, is there a hardware setup that is affordable and can be used to unify these monitors as one? If so, where can I find it?</p>

Combining identical monitors to form one large display

<p>You can check the specification below to build a PC</p> <p><strong>Processor:</strong> <code>AMD Ryzen 5 3400G ( CPU Cores: 4; Threads: 8; GPU Cores: 11; Base Clock: 3.7GHz; Max Boost Clock: 4.2 GHz; Memory Channels: 2)</code> <strong>$145</strong></p> <p><strong>Motherboard:</strong> <code>Gigabyte B450M-S2H (CPU: AMD Ryzen; Chipset: AMD B450; Memory: 2 x DDR4, Max. 32 GB; 3 x PCI Express slots)</code> <strong>$70</strong></p> <p><strong>RAM:</strong> <code>G.Skill RIPJAWS-V 8GB 2666bus Desktop RAM</code> <strong>$40</strong></p> <p><strong>HDD:</strong> <code>SEAGATE BARRACUDA 1TB 7200 RPM SATA DESKTOP HDD</code> <strong>$43</strong></p> <p><strong>CASE:</strong> <code>Any decent casing with Power Supply</code> <strong>$30</strong></p> <p><strong><em>Total price of the build is around $325, You can adjust the price downgrading the processor if you can't go beyond $300</em></strong></p> <p><strong>NB: You can buy a SSD later when you have money for boot drive, which will boost the performance of your PC</strong></p>

12328

2019-11-01T10:21:34.903

|processor|mini-pc|thin-mini-itx|

<p>I am a post-doc researcher working on computational modelling projects. </p> <p>In my spare time, I like to code open-source projects on some topics outside of my university role. I intend to set up a low-cost home workstation for this purpose which shall also double up as a small NFS server for the family. </p> <p>Unfortunately, due to family commitments and medical bills, I can't afford a high end machine.</p> <p>Are there any NUC or other mini PCs out there that have 4 physical cores for below £250 ($300) in the UK? Considering that adding RAM in a mini pc is quite difficult, I am thinking about 8GB DDR4 RAM. It will probably run CentOS or Ubuntu server.</p>

Low cost quad-core mini pc options

<p>Intel Quick Sync is only available from Intel's integrated graphics. If you're using integrated graphics you probably already have this feature. Make sure you have the latest drivers installed for your motherboard and integrated graphics. Your motherboard supports something called "Lucid Virtu" which allows a dedicated graphics card and integrated Intel graphics to appear as a single GPU to the OS. This feature should be disabled (in BIOS if possible) and the drivers for "LucidLogix" or "Lucid" should be uninstalled. It is possible that they can interfere with the Quick Sync feature.</p> <hr> <p>NVidia NVENC was introduced on the GeForce 600-series. That was several years ago and at this point, almost <em>every</em> NVidia card except the cheapest models have the NVENC feature. You can buy pretty much any "gaming" tier GeForce you'd like.</p> <hr> <p>AMD VCE was introduced in the Radeon 7000-series, which is also several years old. Practically <em>all</em> of AMD's GPUs since then support VCE. Once again, you may buy pretty much any "gaming" tier Radeon card you want.</p> <hr> <p>Lastly, you don't actually need any of these features to record your screen. Before these hardware-accelerated features existed you could use software like <a href="https://www.fraps.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FRAPS</a>. These days I would recommend <a href="https://obsproject.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OBS Studio</a>, which is much newer and open source. It doesn't need the hardware features but it can use them if you have it.</p>

12370

2019-11-10T15:01:13.853

|graphics-cards|windows|

<p>I have a home built computer with an ASRock Z68-Pro3-M motherboard and an Intel Core i5. It's a good computer and does what I need. However, I'm sometimes in the need of doing screen recordings and with Windows 10's Xbox Game Bar it says it cannot record due to insufficient hardware. I'd like to upgrade the system by adding a graphics card. </p> <p>My monitors are HDMI and DVI, and maybe some day I'll add a third monitor, so that capability would be nice. There is an available PCI 2.0x16 slot (blue) on my board that I'm thinking is the best option to use. </p> <p>Can anyone recommend something that will work for this? I've read that I need to find one that supports Intel Quick Sync H.264, NVidia NVENC or AMD VCE, but I'm not entirely sure if that means I have to have one from one of those manufacturers or if I can get something like a cheap <a href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01AY78MLM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1IUZRVRQUH0V6&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI card</a> that costs a bit less.</p>

Graphics card for recording screen video (Win 10), PCI express 2.0 x16 slot

<p>There are various media players <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00TOAAHG4" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">for ~US$35</a> and up that can play a presentation in a standard video format, e.g. MP4 or AVI, through a television, if the TV does not already have that capability. If the presentation is in another format, e.g. MS PowerPoint or LibreOffice Impress, you'd need a small PC, such as @CaldeiraG suggests.</p> <p>Another option might be a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0167OR4V0" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">large tablet computer</a>, with <a href="https://www.libreoffice.org/download/android-viewer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LibreOffice</a> installed.</p>

12386

2019-11-12T11:34:48.183

|monitors|

<p>Are there monitors, preferably wall-mounted, where one can upload files e.g. from an USB-stick for a presentation without connection to a PC or Laptop?</p>

Monitors for presentation without PC

<blockquote> <p>Which machine is a better choice for running VM, virtual labs, coding &amp; studying?</p> </blockquote> <p>Aside from the CPUs, there are several attributes of the laptop models themselves (size, weight, shape, screen, keyboard, etc.) that you will need to personally weigh into your decision. I can't objectively say which <em>machine</em> is better for you, but at least we can objectively compare the CPUs in question.</p> <p>According to <a href="https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-3520M-vs-Intel-Core-i5-5300U/m50vsm16790" rel="nofollow noreferrer">user-submitted benchmarks</a>, the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/64893/intel-core-i7-3520m-processor-4m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i7-3520M</a> is only 10% faster than the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/85213/intel-core-i5-5300u-processor-3m-cache-up-to-2-90-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i5-5300U</a> on average.</p> <p>The i7-3520M CPU was a high-end CPU from 2013 intended for gaming laptops and mobile workstations when it released. In 2013 it would have been one of the best choices for your kind of workload.</p> <blockquote> <p>I read that the U series of CPUs are sluggish comparing with the M series.</p> </blockquote> <p>The i5-5300U CPU is a low-power CPU from 2015 intended for ultra portable (thin &amp; light) laptops that allows long battery life. In 2015 this CPU would not have been suitable for your workload compared to the i7 'M' models available at the time.</p> <p>That doesn't mean that <em>all</em> 'U' CPUs are worse than <em>all</em> 'M' CPUs though. The age difference between these two CPUs has allowed Intel to close the gap through architectural improvements. If you were to look at a current-gen 'U' CPUs from 2019, you may find one that is faster than the i7-3520M!</p> <p>The i5-5300U being a newer CPU gives you some advantages over the i7-3520M that are worth trading the 10% advantage for:</p> <ul> <li>Support for AVX2, SSE 4.1, SSE 4.2<br> These instruction sets allow massive performance gains for SIMD type operations.<br> (i.e. Crunching lots of data in parallel)</li> <li>14nm Lithography<br> Moving from 22nm to 14nm allows Intel to use less power to accomplish the same functionality, so when the CPU isn't working hard it is using significantly less power (and outputting less heat) to run the operating system and background tasks.</li> <li>Better Integrated Graphics<br> The HD5500 Graphics are about 40% faster than the HD4000 Graphics.</li> </ul> <p>If none of the points above appeal to you, then the i7-3520M is still a faster CPU in terms of <em>raw performance</em>.</p>

12387

2019-11-12T11:53:27.540

|laptop|processor|

<p>Two second hand refurbished laptops: One is Lenovo Thinkpad T450 with i5 5300U CPU, the other one is Lenovo Thinkpad X230 with i7 3520M CPU. The RAM and hard drive will be exactly the same on both machines. (16 RAM, 1TB HDD).</p> <p>I understand that T450 is a newer machine, but its CPU is i5 5300U, I read that the U series of CPUs are sluggish comparing with the M series.</p> <p>The older machine X230 comes with i7 3520M CPU which has more cache (4MB smartcache) and slightly better benchmarks than i5 5300U.</p> <p>Which machine is a better choice for running VM, virtual labs, coding &amp; studying?</p>

Is i7 3520M in an Older Machine Better Than i5 5300U in a Newer Machine?

<blockquote> <p>What's the state of things in late 2019?</p> </blockquote> <p>There are currently two ways to install an external GPU to a laptop.</p> <ul> <li><p>By using an internal PCIe connection and a cable leading to a PCIe GPU enclosure.<br> This is often done through the port for the WiFi card. If your laptop is new enough it might have a spare M.2 port that supports PCIe for an SSD or a cellular modem.</p></li> <li><p>By using a Thunderbolt 3 port and a cable leading to a PCIe GPU enclosure.</p></li> </ul> <p>In the near future USB 4.0 will incorporate the Thunderbolt 3 protocol. This will likely cause the current Thunderbolt 3 enclosures to be supported by a large number of laptops with USB 4.0 support.</p> <blockquote> <p>Does such a thing exist for USB-C as well?</p> </blockquote> <p>No and yes.</p> <p>"USB-C" is a specification supporting USB 3.x. There is no support for exposing PCI express through USB-C.</p> <p>Thunderbolt 3 is an entirely separate specification that <em>supports</em> USB 3.x and PCI express. It also uses the USB-C connector but the port is considered a "Thunderbolt" port, not "USB". Thunderbolt devices usually require a superior quality cable too.</p> <blockquote> <p>What's the optimal solution for me?</p> </blockquote> <p>It looks like the adapter you linked <em>might</em> work with the WiFi slot, but it will be significantly slower than a Thunderbolt 3 connection, and may bottleneck the GPU. If your laptop is new enough you might need to use an M.2 version of a kit like that, since many WiFi cards come in an M.2 slot now.</p>

12440

2019-11-22T17:38:13.540

|graphics-cards|usb|pcie|

<p>I want to upgrade my laptop to have an external GPU. What's the state of things in late 2019?</p> <p>I would prefer not to remove my WiFi card.</p> <p>Does such a thing exist for USB-C as well? My laptop has a USB-C port without support for Thunderbolt 3 and with reduced Bandwidth of around 5 Gbit/s. It also has a free USB 3.0 port. What's the optimal solution for me?</p> <p>P.S Does <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32861221054.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> fit me? </p> <p>Related answer: <a href="https://superuser.com/a/1097008/1023037">https://superuser.com/a/1097008/1023037</a></p>

State of eGPUs for laptops in late 2019

<p>You might just need an A/B box.<br> Most A/B boxes are just a simple switch between the two jacks.</p> <p>You can use them for two inputs, one output.<br> Or one input, two outputs.</p>

12444

2019-11-22T20:55:25.280

|music|

<p>Think of an A/B box. Do those exist in reverse? Say I have an expensive looper and don't want another, or maybe I have a talk-box that I want controlled by both a keyboard and a guitar without having to also switch what my mic is plugged into. Does there exist a pedal or something that has two inputs and one output, where the two inputs don't affect each other? I would be satisfied by something that doesn't even mix the levels of the two instruments, but other people may want that, so include that if there is one.</p>

Signal "joiner" for guitar and other electric instruments?

<p>Repeating comments as an answer.</p> <p>2280 is the size designation for an M.2 card, such as an SSD. This is the typical size for a PC.</p> <p>TLC is the type of memory used in the drive. It stands for <em>Three Level Cell</em> which means that each cell holds three bits. This is again typical for a consumer drive. MLCs, with two bits per cell, are used in high-end drives like the Samsung Pro series, while QLC, with four bits, are used in low-end drives like the Intel 660p.</p> <p>While this is likely a duplicate entry, but personally I would pick the one with more details, otherwise you could get a terribly overpriced Intel 660p.</p> <p>If that price is in USD the drive is expensive anyways - if you can and are able to put in the drive yourself, get something like the Kingston A2000 which has a suggested price of 99 USD for a 1 TB model. It should be good enough for any non professional uses.</p>

12452

2019-11-24T23:01:05.017

|ssd|

<p>Just trying to figure out what is the difference between <code>M.2 PCIe NVMe</code> and <code>M.2 2280, PCIe-NVMe, TLC</code> ?? </p> <p>I need to choose one.</p> <p>I mean which one is better?</p> <p>Thanks</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVhAs.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVhAs.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

What is the difference between "M.2 PCIe NVMe" and "M.2 2280, PCIe-NVMe, TLC"

<p><strong>Processor:</strong> <code>AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler - YD2600BBAFBOX</code> - $115</p> <p><strong>Motherboard:</strong> <code>Asus Prime B450M-A/CSM AMD Ryzen 2 AM4 DDR4 HDMI DVI VGA M.2 USB 3.1 Gen2 mATX Motherboard</code> $77</p> <p><strong>Links provided below to buy these products</strong></p> <p>Processor: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B41WS48" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Link to buy the processor</a></p> <p>Motherboard: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FKV5HWJ" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Link to buy the motherboard</a></p> <p><strong><em>NB: You can buy B450 motherboard from any decent brand</em></strong></p>

12455

2019-11-25T14:06:48.990

|processor|motherboard|gaming|desktop|

<p>What is the best CPU and motherboard under $300 for playing the Java Edition of Minecraft?<br> I already have a graphics card, 256GB SSD and a 600W PSU.<br> I'll also use it for normal computer usage.</p>

What's the best CPU and motherboard under $300 for playing Minecraft?

<p>The Elgato 4K60S+ seems to check all of your boxes:</p> <ul> <li>4K resolution @ 60fps</li> <li>Portable and Standalone</li> <li>Perfect Pass-Through</li> <li>SD Card slot</li> </ul> <p>It also has HDR10 capabilities.</p> <p><a href="https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-4k60-s-plus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-4k60-s-plus</a></p>

12476

2019-11-30T00:20:57.563

|hdmi|portable|display-port|4k|video-capture|

<p>I'm having difficulty finding a Independent Portable 4K Capture Device that Records at 4K 60fps to SD or MicroSD.</p> <p>By independent, I mean it does not require a computer; it is its own computer by itself.</p> <p>By portable, I mean that I don't want something as large as PC tower.</p> <p>I want perfect pass-through 4K 60fps quality while viewing what I'm recording live, and I want the exact 4K 60fps quality while viewing what I've recorded. I expect this to be expensive; that's ok.</p>

Independent Portable 4K Capture Device that Records a 4K 60fps to SD or MicroSD

<p>If it's only for personal use then you don't really care about performance, a Raspberry Pi 3 would be enough (but beware filesystem errors).</p> <p>Otherwise get something cheap in the cloud. Hosting websites, especially if you want it up and running almost all the time has so much hidden costs (Internet, UPS, electricity, labor) it turns out cloud solutions are the cheapest option.</p>

12486

2019-12-03T05:00:08.377

|server|web-server|

<p>I'm looking for a small server to prepare my business item and collect data(some blog articles).<br/> I'm planning to run solution written by PHP or Python.<br/> So, what I want to ask is which one is better, VM on the desktop I'm using(i7-930 with 16GB RAM) or an old laptop(i3 3217U with 4GB RAM)<br/> Currently, I'm running IIS server with Windows 10 Pro on the old laptop.<br/> But still I'm considering other options.<br/> I tried Ubuntu Server on laptop, but I can't configure WLAN because it doesn't have Ethernet port on it and solutions on the Internet not worked.<br/> On the other hand, only problem using VM on my desktop is I play various games on it.<br/> So what should I choose?<br/></p>

I need recommendation for small server

<p>I would recommend the <strong>Ryzen 5 3600</strong> for these reasons:</p> <ul> <li><p>The 3600 has faster <em>single core</em> performance, and almost matches the <em>multi core</em> performance of the Ryzen 7 2700X because of that. The Ryzen 7 2700X does a little better in <a href="https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-ryzen-5-3600/6.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CPU rendering benchmarks</a> but you <em>should</em> be using a GPU for rendering anyways. That would make this small advantage irrelevant.</p></li> <li><p>The CPU needs only 65W, which is a ~40% power reduction over the 2700X.<br> That means the included CPU cooler will be adequate, and the system will not be as noisy.</p></li> <li><p>The 3600 has an <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/14525/amd-zen-2-microarchitecture-analysis-ryzen-3000-and-epyc-rome" rel="nofollow noreferrer">improved architecture</a> that provides several advantages over the 2700X:</p> <ul> <li><p>PCIe 4.0 Support</p></li> <li><p>Infinity Fabric 2 - The DDR frequency no longer determines the CPU's internal fabric speed. Pairing a 2700X with cheap DDR4 RAM will have a greater consequence on overall performance than a 3600 with the same RAM would.</p></li> <li><p>Significantly improved <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/14525/amd-zen-2-microarchitecture-analysis-ryzen-3000-and-epyc-rome/9" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AVX2</a> capabilties.<br> This instruction set is used in a lot of number-crunching applications, including video encoding. (Which an animator will be doing every time they export a video!)</p></li> </ul></li> </ul> <p>My recommendation is based on both of these CPUs being the same price though. They are close enough in performance that whichever is less expensive is probably the better <em>value</em>.</p>

12494

2019-12-04T08:54:25.850

|processor|pc|rendering|

<p>I am helping my brother build a budget computer for his studies as animator.</p> <p>Right now the budget is very low, so I opted to buy a good CPU to futureproof any of his needs and buy a better graphics card in future upgrade.</p> <p>I did some research and I came up with the following processors:<br> <strong>AMD Ryzen 7 2700X</strong><br> <strong>AMD Ryzen 5 3600</strong></p> <p>Which do you think is the most suitable for this build.</p>

CPU recomendation for animator`s computer

<blockquote> <p>Do devices like these always work nicely together these days?</p> </blockquote> <p>This depends on the dual-bay enclosure that you buy, but most of them appear to the computer as a USB hub with either one or two <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_mass_storage_device_class" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB storage class devices</a> attached to it.</p> <p>With the enclosure that I have used before (Mediasonic ProRaid), there is a physical switch to select how the disks are used. When it is in RAID 0 or 1 mode, the PC can only see one drive which is the virtual disk created by the RAID. I have tested this enclosure with multiple operating systems and it seems to work as a plug &amp; play USB drive, like any other USB hard drive or stick would.</p> <p>Since your router does support USB storage, I expect that <em>most</em> USB RAID 1 enclosures will be detected by the router as a single drive.</p>

12508

2019-12-05T21:20:39.863

|usb|nas|raid|drive-enclosure|

<p>I have wanted to set up a NAS for ages. I recently moved house and had to buy a <a href="https://en.avm.de/products/fritzbox/fritzbox-5490/technical-specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">new fibre modem/router</a>. It has two USB 3.0 ports, and it'll be switched on all the time, so I figured it might be a low cost, low power way to get my NAS going.</p> <p>I want my NAS to be RAID 1, so I was looking at enclosures like the ones suggested <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9851/how-can-i-use-two-usb-external-hard-drives-by-mirroring-both-like-raid-1">here</a> and <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/9634/usb3-hub-that-can-handle-2-external-hard-drives-simultaneously/9651#9651">here</a>. However, I'm a bit nervous about compatibility issues between the USB enclosure and the router. Do devices like these always work nicely together these days?</p> <p>If I were plugging the enclosure into my PC, then I would feel confident that I could sort out any driver issues. But with the router's OS, I pretty much have to hope it just works, else I'm stuffed.</p> <p>Thanks for any tips or suggestions! </p>

USB3.0 RAID 1 enclosure that can be connected to my new router

<p>The 9750H is a mobile processor, meant to be soldered to a laptop motherboard. It will not fit in a a desktop motherboard, nor will you be able to buy one. So for a desktop you don't have a choice. Unless you buy a notebook.</p> <p>That said, why would you buy the 9700K now? According to <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/2258?vs=2520" rel="nofollow noreferrer">benchmarks</a> the cheaper Ryzen 7 3700X is slightly slower in some tasks (single or light threading), but can be significantly faster in others (heavily threaded).</p> <p>That said, what you mostly care about, both for games <em>and</em> 3D is single core performance and the GPU. Games tend to be lightly threaded, same as mesh editing. For programming it depends on your language, although I suppose build in any language are paralleled nowadays. Autocompletion in the IDE is more of a single thread stuff as well.</p> <p>As a side note - you definitely want an RTX. With both Blender and V-Ray supporting RTX it's a no-brainer as long as you have the budget. I've seen benchmarks where Blender render times were cut in half using hardware RT vs pure CUDA on the same card.</p>

12510

2019-12-06T06:10:20.543

|processor|intel|

<p>I'm going to build a computer, but I'm stuck on choosing a processor. I found two processors: Intel Core i7-9700K and i7-9750H. The 9750H, according to the official site, is a bit faster and has more threads. But, on Intel's website it's marked as <code>Mobile</code>. Does that mean it's incompatible or it's not recommended to use it in a desktop computer? If that's the case, can 9700K fill up like everything from gaming through 3D animation to programming?</p>

Intel Core i7-9700K vs 9750H

<p><strong>You can upgrade your RAM by replacing the current one as this laptop has single RAM slot, but can't add another extra RAM due to lack of RAM slot.</strong></p> <p><code>You can check the video I am providing the link below, how to upgrade RAM of your laptop</code></p> <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vYAo_JrrSA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Check this video from youtube</a></p>

12522

2019-12-08T17:22:07.873

|laptop|motherboard|memory|intel|

<p>Initially I'm having 4GB of RAM in my Lenovo Ideapad 330 laptop.<br> Now I want to know if it is possible to add an extra 4GB of RAM to a total of 8 GB of RAM.<br> If yes, what will it do to the performance?</p>

Installing extra RAM in Lenovo Ideapad 330, Intel i3 7th gen laptop

<p>I first used "rugged ethernet connector" for search terms, but changed to "industrial ethernet connector" after seeing those terms in the search results.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsuCm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsuCm.png" alt="rugged ethernet connector"></a></p> <p>The above photo is courtesy of <a href="https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/connectors/intersection/industrial-rj45/industrialrj45-ip20.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TE Connectivity</a>, but other links appeared from the search, which may be better suited or less expensive, or easier to find.</p> <p>This TE model certainly appears rugged and durable. No broken plastic clips when they are made of metal!</p>

12539

2019-12-11T04:16:52.233

|ethernet|cable|

<p>I am in the unfortunate position of needing a wired network connection for my laptop. I also need to attach and remove the cable several times a day. A 10 foot cat 6 cable works great, and I have bought many of them. But I would like to find a cable with a more durable connector. After a few months of use, the little plastic locking latch/clip breaks off. I know these connectors are not designed for heavy use, but is anyone aware of cables with more durable connectors? Or even just a source for more durable connectors (I can assemble my own cables)?</p>

Where Can I Get a Durable cat 6 Ethernet cable

<p>Judging reliability of an SSD that hit the market less than a year ago is kind of difficult. And the actual question here (can I trust brand X) is much too broad to be answered conclusively. Patriot sells lots of different SKUs, at different price points, and for a different target audience.</p> <p>So let's rather have a closer look at the actual model you are interested in, the P200 SSD. Here is a test of the 1TB model: <a href="https://www.techpowerup.com/review/patriot-p200-1-tb-ssd/11.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.techpowerup.com/review/patriot-p200-1-tb-ssd/11.html</a></p> <p>While it mostly performs on par with similarly priced SSDs, It's biggest weakness is that it is a DRAM-less SSD. Which is why it struggles with intensive random read/write workloads. To a point where the difference becomes noticeable, even in real-world applications. If we take a look at the prices for the 500GB model, the difference between the P200 and for example a Crucial MX500 is only about 3€ in my part of the world. Add another 8€, and you can already afford a Samsung 860 Evo. In my personal opinion, the minimal price difference is not worth the potential performance difference for your applications.</p> <p>tl;dr: invest a little bit more, and get different SSD with DRAM cache</p>

12548

2019-12-14T08:52:41.843

|laptop|ssd|

<p>I've read that they are not so fast and also that reliability is a factor. </p> <p>My notebook is 8 years old now so I guess that all these new fast SSD memory technologies are useless for me, but I need something that will not break down (and I loose all my data). I need it for media, video and photo production.</p> <p>Can I trust the Patriot brand?</p>

Patriot P200 SSD for old Asus Zenbook

<p>There are ready made available, for example <a href="https://www.waveshare.com/15.6inch-fhd-monitor.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Waveshare one</a>.</p> <p>Scavenging laptop displays requires some effort since they don't use standard connectors and you need to track down adapters which work with this specific model.</p>

12549

2019-12-14T11:56:29.523

|gaming|monitors|thin-mini-itx|

<p>Not sure if this is the right place to be asking this question. But since this is hardware / PC related, and not woodworking, I think it would be the best place.</p> <p>I'm currently in the planning process to build a new dining table, that would be able to operate as a tabletop table, specifically card and/or pen and paper. For this, one of the ends will include a table-"wing" for the Gamemaster. In this wing I want to install two angled monitors and connect them to either a mini-pc or a custom built ITX pc. The PC itself is not the difficult part, the monitors are however. </p> <p>The requirements for the monitors:</p> <ul> <li>2x Monitors (Size 15.6" ~ 17", 16:9)</li> <li>Touch capability</li> <li>Either frame-less or panel based, for easy installation</li> <li>Should run on either mini-DP, DP or HDMI. (if anyone have other suggestions please feel free to suggest it)</li> <li>Voltage in the table would be either 230V or 24V.</li> </ul> <p>Some people have suggested that I simply scavenge some old laptops or monitors. While other people suggest trying to locate some on Ebay (or similar). </p> <p>I was thinking that perhaps some of the people in this stackexchange might have experience with these types of custom builds. </p>

Custom Build Tabletop Table

<p>I found a better solution to the problem which is to have the monitor powered by a PIR motion sensor located outside above the front door.</p>

12577

2019-12-18T23:07:46.437

|television|hdtv|

<p>I need recommendations for a cheap display monitor for use in CCTV door access.</p> <p>To save electricity the monitor will remain powered off at all times, until somebody needs to answer the front door and manually switches on the display monitor. It is crucial, therefore, that the chosen monitor is able to display video extremely quickly from the moment it is powered on.</p> <ul> <li>Approximate screen size: 14"</li> <li>Type / Format: HD LED wide screen</li> <li>Market: Either new or used.</li> </ul> <p>Video input will be from an IP CCTV camera via its local BNC / phono output.</p> <p>BTW, I found it impossible to construct a search query for this question on Google.</p> <p>Thanks for any helpful assistance.</p> <p><strong>20/12/2019 - Update</strong></p> <p>I've discovered the Samsung SMT-1935 is made for the CCTV market, used monitors are available cheaply, but I'm having difficulty persuading sellers to check the power-on time with a BNC feed.</p>

Display monitor with fast Boot-up / Picture-on time

<p>Ended up with <a href="https://www.unitek-products.com/products/usb-3-0-3-port-hub-gigabit-ethernet-adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Unitek 4-in-1 USB 3.0 Ethernet Hub</a>. Unlike Axis, it doesn't even need a special driver!</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDQbCm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDQbCm.png" alt="Unitek 4-in-1 USB 3.0 Ethernet Hub" /></a></p>

12582

2019-12-20T14:38:41.830

|usb|networking|windows|ethernet|network-adapter|

<p>My laptop only has no Ethernet connection, but I've been successfully using <a href="https://www.asix.com.tw/en/product/USBEthernet/Super-Speed_USB_Ethernet/AX88179" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AX88179</a> (USB3.0 to 10/100/1000M <strong>Gigabit</strong> Ethernet Controller) for a few years now. Yet as soon as my Internet connection became higher than 100 Mbps, it seems I hit Asix' limit.</p> <p>I've tried asking <a href="https://superuser.com/questions/1510207/why-doesnt-my-usb-ethernet-card-asix-give-me-1-gbps">here</a> and was told it's probably because of the adapter (I've tried using both Cat5, Cat5e and Cat6 cables - the latter of which gave me 1 Gbps in another house).</p> <p>I tried contacting Asix but they haven't even bothered to reply.</p> <p>I therefore consider buying a new adapter, but the tricky part is my laptop only has 2 USB ports. One is USB 3.0 and the other is USB 2.0. If I understand correctly, only USB 3.0 can be used to achieve 1 Gbps.</p> <p>In other words, the adapter I need should also serve as a USB 3.0 hub so I'll be able to connect other devices in general and other USB 3.0 devices particularly.</p> <p>Do you know of any such device, which company is reputable enough to ensure I get 1 Gbps plus has technical support that actually replies?</p> <p>What I want is:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/srxVb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/srxVb.png" alt="1 Gbps Ethernet speed" /></a></p> <p>What I don't want and so far have is:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sq1Gb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sq1Gb.png" alt="100 Mbps Ethernet speed" /></a></p> <p>Currently using:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNeQm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNeQm.png" alt="USB to Ethernet with hub adapter" /></a></p>

USB LAN/RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Network Adapter which also serves as a USB 3.0 Hub

<p>I have chosen systems available to ship to Brazil today and assume that you are using USD rather than Brazilian Reals. I was able to match and exceed your minimum specs easily with a budget of 2.2K USD.</p> <hr> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/br-en/p/2WC-000C-00HX0?Item=9SIA7ABA8H7863" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI GF75 9SC-278 | $1,279.95 + 87.08 International Shipping</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JH8Ue.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JH8Ue.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Features MSI's magnesium-aluminium alloy which is excellent both for weight and head dissipation. I own an MSI and have never heard of multi-boot issues with the manufacturer as they typically make customization of hardware and software relatively painless. I have seen more than a few people install Linux on MSI computers before. Partitioning your hard-drive and then installing another operating system in that partition will certainly not brick your <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BIOS" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BIOS</a>. The easiest way to configure multi boot with Linux + Windows will be the guide I have linked in the comment under your question.</p> <hr> <h2>Matched and exceeded specs</h2> <ul> <li>i7-<strong>9</strong>750<strong>H</strong></li> <li>NVIDIA GTX 1650</li> <li><strong>16GB</strong> DDR4-<strong>2333</strong></li> <li>512 GB <strong>M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD</strong> + 1TB HDD</li> <li>Ships <strong>Windows 10</strong> pre-installed</li> <li><strong>Brushed Magnesium-Aluminium Alloy finish</strong></li> </ul> <p>MSI laptops are usually configured for instant access to SSD, HDD, WiFi Card Module, and battery so I see no issues for storage upgrades if you need it. If you upgrade storage I would endorse buying an M.2 to SATA adapter and switching the existing SSD to secondary.</p> <p>As for any potential lack of knowledge or being out of the loop with GPUs, I can assure you that the GTX 1650 benchmarks a modest 8% higher in terms of effective speed according to <a href="https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1650-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1050-Ti/m790279vs3649" rel="nofollow noreferrer">benchmarks</a>, meeting and exceeding your graphical requirements.</p> <hr> <p>Finally <strong>if you would like a full comprehensive lists of laptops</strong> meeting your requirements and available for shipping to Brazil or would like to push the price further down, <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/br-en/p/pl?N=101687435%20600003982%20601303722%20601312452%20601323887%20601343206%20601205664%20601206490%20601206491%20601285496%20601328394%20601333544%20600555370%20601300077%20600136700%20600337010%20600440394%20601107729%20601183480%20601331008%20601296067%20601296068%20601296069&amp;Order=PRICE" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>here is a link to my search query.</strong></a>. Asus, MSI, and Dell are all fine to dual boot and I don't see any reason Aorus wouldn't either though I have not heard of this company before.</p> <p><strong>Regardless, normal user operations done to your hard drive (partitioning, changing bits aka installing OS's) should never have any impact on your BIOS.</strong></p>

12584

2019-12-20T23:28:53.873

|laptop|linux|windows|

<p>I'm looking for a laptop that can boot into at least two different systems in the way where I don't need to worry about future/sudden issues. However, I'll need to buy a high performance laptop with the following minimum requirements:</p> <blockquote> <ul> <li><p>CPU: Intel i7- 8th generation</p></li> <li><p>GPU: GTX 1050ti ( at least 4GB)</p></li> <li><p>RAM: 16GB DDR4 2666Mhz</p></li> <li><p>SSD: M.2 / NVMe</p></li> <li><p>OS: Windows 10</p></li> <li><p>M.2 with or without SATA 3 space: at least 2TB available to upgrade</p></li> <li><p>Price limit: $2200</p></li> <li><p>Laptops with good finish is better</p></li> </ul> </blockquote> <p>Please, give me a list of the best laptops that you've found. Thanks :)</p> <p>Ps: I'll install Ubuntu and thinking about one more distro too, setting a triboot system maybe.</p> <p><strong>NOTICE</strong>: I'm from Brazil and live here, at the moment I've found some laptops available in my country that I'm interested in, such as Dell G5 5590 and Acer Predator Helios 300 PH315 (but I don't know if they'll run Linux distros smooth with a dual/triple boot system). However I can take a risk and buy imported Dell G7 7590, for example, if Dell Brasil doesn't sell products like this until March.</p> <p><strong>ADVICE</strong>: Just tell me what are the best laptops (hardwares) models, as it is a hardware recommendation topic. Some brands doesn't allow the owner to install Linux OS on its laptops and if someone do it they alert about possible damages that brick the HARDWARE.</p>

Which laptops are appropriate to set a dual boot system (Windows and Linux)?

<p>I'm going to give you two options and leave them up to your to decide whether the price warrants the difference in performance. These are solid option that far outstrips the DOA 1060 you recieved and should be capable of lasting you for at least the next five years if not the end of the decade (assuming nothing else in your computer breaks down). Capable of hitting far above 100 fps for top triple A title games today.</p> <p>I've decided not to recommend you any newer AMD GPUs to prevent you the headache as your cpu lacks a integrated gpu. Some of the newer AMD GPUs only support UEFI rather than Legacy BIOS and can prevent you from booting from your boot loader to your operating system.</p> <p>Make sure you apply the promo at checkout. If you have Amazon prime you should be able to get them to price match Newegg if you prefer Amazon's shipping services.</p> <hr> <h2>GPUs</h2> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-2070-super-rtx-2070-super-ventus-oc/p/N82E16814137438?Item=N82E16814137438" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI RTX 2070S 8GB | $493.98 ($509.99 + $3.99 Shipping - $20 Promo)</a></h2> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/zotac-geforce-rtx-2080-super-zt-t20820d-10p/p/N82E16814500473?Item=N82E16814500473&amp;nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;utm_medium=affiliates&amp;utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&amp;AFFID=2558510&amp;AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&amp;ACRID=1&amp;ranMID=44583&amp;ranEAID=2558510&amp;ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-LibJcQHgp_QQvWruy3r5dA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ZOTAC RTX 2080S 8GB | $669.99 ($709.99 - $40 Promo)</a></h2> <hr> <h2>Benchmarks</h2> <p>Based on benchmarks it seems that if you are going to purchase a 2070, <a href="https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2070-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4029vs4048" rel="nofollow noreferrer">it only costs a little more for a somewhat noticeable difference</a>. <a href="https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2080-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4026vs4048" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The 2080 is not that much better than the 2070S</a>, however; <a href="https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2080S-Super-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4050vs4048" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the 2080S benches about 16% higher than the 2070S</a>, and whose performance would be noticeably different.</p> <hr> <h2>Upgrade Notes</h2> <p>On a different subject, your CPU is not terrible for the setup and will probably not be too much of a bottle neck as most games are GPU bound rather than CPU bound. You might be able to achieve slightly better performance with a newer top of the line CPU, but an upgrade like this would likely be of higher benefit if you are doing heavy multi-cooperative computation or heavy video processing/encoding.</p>

12589

2019-12-22T14:27:54.620

|graphics-cards|

<p>My PC is kinda old by now, but I'm trying to save money. This puts me in a unique situation that I'm not sure how to tackle. My current setup is this:</p> <p><strong>CPU</strong>: AMD FX-8350 <br> <strong>GPU</strong>: GeForce GTX 750Ti <br> <strong>Memory</strong>: 16 GB</p> <p>Now this GPU is a little old I wanted to upgrade it. I bought a second hand GeForce 1060 6 GB, but it doesn't work. I've ran several benchmarks and tests and got advice online - some people think the card is dead and the seller lied to me, others think this old CPU is creating a bottleneck. I don't know. </p> <p>The best thing is to probably buy a new PC, but I don't have a lot of money right now I need to be cautious. My thinking is - ok, I can buy a newer GPU - if it works well, then fineת I only spent that money. If it doesn't, then that means I need to replace my CPU and motherboard, but I didn't waste any money because I'll still use the GPU I bought.</p> <p>Which brings me to my question - <strong>what's the best GPU I can buy right now that'll work with my old CPU, but if I end up replacing that CPU will still be good enough for next couple of years?</strong>. Note I don't really care if it's an Nvidia or AMD card.</p>

What GPU should I buy that'll work for my current setup and be useful if I upgrade my CPU?

<p>I occurs to me that my exact specification is satisfied by taking the Casio keyboard mentioned, which only has a headphone output, and use a 3.5mm male to 1/4 inch female adapter.</p>

12591

2019-12-23T02:04:54.987

|audio|music|

<p>I got excited to see the Casio SA-76, which almost fit the description, but it doesn't have a 1/4 inch jack output.</p> <p>I do not care about timbre or sound quality, because I want to run the keyboard through a vocoder while having access to the voices on my other "real" keyboard.</p> <p>By smallest, I mean fewer than 49 keys. Smaller means lighter, and it's more aesthetic to have a tiny keyboard sitting on top of my other keyboard.</p> <p>EDIT: Just to clarify, I don't mean a MIDI controller, but a keyboard that outputs its own tones.</p>

What's the smallest + cheapest keyboard that has a 1/4 inch jack output and runs on AAs?

<p>This will fit any motherboard with a free pci-e slot.</p> <p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_mtf_aps_sr_pg2_2?ie=UTF8&amp;adId=A05329332UIW0OA345RVE&amp;url=%2FSIIG-Legacy-Express-External-Supports%2Fdp%2FB075SL611C%2Fref%3Dsr_1_28_sspa%3Fcrid%3D21UG840YWFFZA%26keywords%3Dpcie%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bcard%26qid%3D1579900980%26sprefix%3Dpcie%2Busb%252Caps%252C154%26sr%3D8-28-spons%26psc%3D1&amp;qualifier=1579900980&amp;id=2883134542341984&amp;widgetName=sp_mtf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_mtf_aps_sr_pg2_2?ie=UTF8&amp;adId=A05329332UIW0OA345RVE&amp;url=%2FSIIG-Legacy-Express-External-Supports%2Fdp%2FB075SL611C%2Fref%3Dsr_1_28_sspa%3Fcrid%3D21UG840YWFFZA%26keywords%3Dpcie%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bcard%26qid%3D1579900980%26sprefix%3Dpcie%2Busb%252Caps%252C154%26sr%3D8-28-spons%26psc%3D1&amp;qualifier=1579900980&amp;id=2883134542341984&amp;widgetName=sp_mtf</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWwr4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWwr4.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>NOTE I am not endorsing this model vs the 100 variations found on amazon. Any will work to varing degrees.</p>

12608

2019-12-28T18:57:37.260

|usb|pc|desktop|case|

<p>I have Gigabyte <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-H61M-S-rev-10/sp#sp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GA-H61M-S</a> motherboard and it does not support USB 3.0. <br> <br> My computer case has USB and Audio module but, its not working anymore. So, I am thinking to replace it with a good quality panel. <br> <br> Now, I have found <a href="https://www.amazon.in/Neon-Front-Panel-Connector-Adapter/dp/B073P4N21N/ref=pd_sbs_147_3/259-5822732-6957312?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B073P4N21N&amp;pd_rd_r=13b75391-9d54-4dc9-b32f-bca5e1967ae5&amp;pd_rd_w=zc4dW&amp;pd_rd_wg=op5m8&amp;pf_rd_p=fbf43daf-8fb3-47b5-9deb-ae9cce3969a9&amp;pf_rd_r=M97ZDB2PY3ACQ8ABCHP4&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M97ZDB2PY3ACQ8ABCHP4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> one product which meets my requirement. I have to connect it to USB header on motherboard. But, it says its for USB 3.0. <br> <br> So, my question is whether this panel will work or not with my motherboard. I know that if it works then it will give me speed of USB 2.0 only but, will it work at all or not?</p>

Can I install USB 3.0 USB bracket if my motherboard does not support USB 3.0?

<p>I believe that the <a href="https://amzn.to/30DZhtb" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8.0” (2019)</strong></a> fits the bill (and is the only one like this from a non-Chinese brand.)</p> <p>It's not big (while not 7" display it is only 8" display and the screen-to-body ratio is much smaller than the Nexus 7 because t has smaller bezels.) Has a Micro SD card slot. Has one before the last version of Android. And is pretty affordable.</p> <p>Another honorable mention goes to the <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/tablets/android-tablets/lenovo-tab-series/Lenovo-TB-8705/p/ZZITZTATB68" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Lenovo Tab M8 FHD</strong></a> which is very similar, but specs are better and also the screen-to-body ratio is better.</p>

12612

2019-12-29T09:00:34.067

|android|tablet|

<p>Recently, my Nexus 7 2013 (Wi-Fi only), died.</p> <p>I am looking for a replacement, but things changed since I last required a tablet and I am not sure on what the next pick should be.</p> <p>What I am looking for in Nexus 7 replacement is:<br> * Similar form factor (size)<br> * Ideally an additional memory card slot<br> * Relatively latest version of Android<br> * (If possible LTE support, but if not fine as well) </p> <p>I looked into such tablets like Samsung Galaxy Tab S5e. It has additional memory card slot and Android 9 present. It is of different size, than Nexus 7, but that could also be fine. I am a bit sceptical about Samsung in general, especially after the exploding phone battery fiasco.</p> <p>Thanks for any recommendation,<br> Merry Christmas.</p> <p><strong>UPDATE</strong></p> <p>Forgot to mention, that it needs to be affordable (Apple out of the question). Samsung Galaxy Tab S5e in my country I find a bit too expensive 439€.</p>

Recommendation for Nexus 7 replacement

<p>Wyze Cams are simple to setup and simple to use. While they have cloud storage capabilities, they do not have to be used. You can put in a high capacity microSD and record right to the card. The live cameras can be accessed remotely, as well as the footage. They have fixed cameras and cameras that pan. Did I mention that they're inexpensive as well? You can purchase them directly from Wyze, Amazon, Micro Center, or Home Depot.</p> <p>Check them out: <a href="https://wyze.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://wyze.com/</a></p>

12615

2019-12-30T05:06:04.360

|video-camera|home-security|

<p>This may or may not be a duplicate question, but please read on before deciding.</p> <p>So I have tried the foscam brand, but found that they have the you figure it out approach to setup. I have never set up a tabletop indoor security camera before and found foscam to be a pain. There was something about using some IP, but was never sure if it was the IP of my router. If it was the IP of the camera, then tough because I had no clue what it was or where it was.</p> <p>So basically, I am looking for an indoor tabletop camera that I can control from my iPhone, even if I am 3 to 10 hours away from my home.</p> <p>I found that foscam worked great if I was home, once I left home, I could not connect to the camera via the foscam app.</p> <p>So I am looking for something with excellent documentation on how to setup, preferably does not require me to use third-party cloud storage and preferably does not require me to go to NO IP or some other website to complete setup.</p> <p>Something that is as easy as 1, 2, 3 and now I am off to Paris and can still open an app on my iPhone and view what my camera sees. Or something close to it.</p>

Indoor tabletop security camera that does not require outside cloud storage and easiest to setup

<p>Based on the information and drawings on the link you've provided, it appears that the USB port is supplying power and very likely power only. The double-ended cables provide for audio source/destination for the bluetooth aspect of the device.</p> <p>This means the answer to your question is quite likely NO.</p> <p>A quick search discovers a product available that explicitly presents as mouse/keyboard capable:</p> <p><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Bluetooth-5-0-Adapter-Drive-Desktop-Computer-Dongle-Transceiver-Music-Audio-/293148378343?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">eBay link for example</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2le5d.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2le5d.jpg" alt="ebay photo"></a></p>

12630

2020-01-02T23:28:27.260

|bluetooth|

<p>I want to buy <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000117330187.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.17bc2d29V2xpr0&amp;algo_pvid=d5b5eb99-4117-40ce-a1ad-4ab594c055c2&amp;algo_expid=d5b5eb99-4117-40ce-a1ad-4ab594c055c2-43&amp;btsid=556ef4d1-7ee7-448e-bd38-5fc3c5dde510&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_53" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> transmitter/receiver but in specifications I see everything about audio only. Can I use it with my PC to connect keyboard or mouse?</p>

Is Bluetooth transmitter/receiver fine for connecting mouse/keyboard?

<p><strong>It is better to use type-C</strong> </p> <ul> <li><p>As more devices are moving to type-C and you can phase out your adapter for type-B over time. </p></li> <li><p>Type-C also has more capabilities and you will be handicapped later on by converting from B to C. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C</a></p></li> <li><p>Your HUB does not need to specify OTG as it a standard that is addopted by the device your are attaching it to (IE your smartphone). <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go</a></p></li> </ul> <p>Here is a USB-C hub that has worked very well for me across desktop, laptop, and smartphone: <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDHD3VC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDHD3VC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p> <p><strong>Edit to answer comment:</strong> Your first question is answered above. Your second question is answered below. </p> <p>Here is an image of what you are likely to find inside the adapter: <a href="https://images.app.goo.gl/AVwQqKQCk6SfeSMj7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://images.app.goo.gl/AVwQqKQCk6SfeSMj7</a> The unused pin you see is used to sense whether your phone should act as the host or the device. When it acts as the host you are in the OTG mode. </p> <p>You could purchase a USB-B to A OTG adapter and a USB-A to C adapter but there is no guarantee that your older devices will support this. If you want to make sure both devices work, you could get 2 OTG adapters: one from B to A and one from C to A, and then use a USB-A hub. </p>

12632

2020-01-03T02:10:08.757

|usb|android|

<p>I could buy type-B USB OTG host hub like <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33046931927.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ec4720d53H2qq&amp;algo_pvid=29840a05-7b0e-4758-9aaa-f91898b06316&amp;algo_expid=29840a05-7b0e-4758-9aaa-f91898b06316-17&amp;btsid=7060f49d-f395-486d-b441-ceadc83372c6&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_53" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> (4th selection) and type-B female/type-C male. But do I need some special adapter which supports OTG? Or maybe it's better to buy type-C OTG host hub?</p>

Is it better to buy OTG host hub with type-C or micro type-B if I have B and C compatible devices?

<p>If you're going to upgrade something on that system, upgrade the GPU. Even the fastest CPU your mainboard supports (an i7-3770K) is only 50% faster in multi-threaded performance, and less than 5% faster in single-threaded performance; the fastest modern CPU is less than 50% better single-threaded, gaining performance mostly by virtue of having 32 cores. In comparison, there's plenty of headroom for improvement in the GPU, and more GPU is what you need to push more pixels.</p> <p>Your existing GPU has a TDP of 120 watts. Since you don't know how much extra capacity your PSU has, I'm going to recommend an upgrade with a comparable TDP: the GeForce GTX 1660 Super, for around $230. Benchmarks give it a performance of 2x to 3x that of your current card, and unlike the GTX 960, reviewers considered it worthwhile to benchmark at resolutions above 1920x1080. Since the card's fairly new, there's not yet much variation between manufacturers, so pick whichever card is cheapest (or looks the best, or whatever minor criterion is important to you).</p> <p>(Another upgrade option, much cheaper, but without much expected benefit, is another 8GB of RAM. The P67 chipset is capable of dual-channel operation, so if you're seeing single-channel, it's because you've only got one stick of memory (likely) or the memory isn't in the correct slots (less likely). Faster memory doesn't give much of a performance boost, though.)</p>

12636

2020-01-03T14:35:00.520

|graphics-cards|processor|motherboard|

<p>I just replaced my old Apple Cinema monitor (1680x1050) with an AOC curve gaming display (2560x1440).</p> <p>My current setup does not seem to enjoy pushing that many pixels on the screen, laggy and jerky, I had to reduce the game (fallout 76) resolution to be playable; but I'd like to upgrade to something that would let me play at full resolution.</p> <ul> <li>CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz (Sandy Bridge 32nm Technology)</li> <li>RAM: 8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)</li> <li>Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P67A-UD4-B3 (Socket 1155)</li> <li>Graphics: 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960 (PNY)</li> <li>Storage: 447GB KINGSTON SUV500480G ATA Device (SATA-2 (SSD))</li> <li>PSU: Antec 1000w.</li> </ul> <p>I don't remember the wattage on my Power Supply, but If I remember, I got one that was over-powered.</p> <p>I know my motherboard is old and not really upgradable.</p> <p>Upgrade motherboard/cpu or upgrade gpu ? </p> <p>I'm not certain what is the limiting factor here.</p> <p>I've bitten the bullet and upgraded most of my components: </p> <ul> <li>Intel Core i5-9400F (with fan)</li> <li>G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2x8GB)</li> <li>GIGABYTE B365M DS3H LGA 1151 (300 Series) </li> <li>GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER</li> </ul> <p>Thanks.</p>

Hardware upgrade path for high gaming resolution

<h1>Micro B (3.0) &lt;-> A</h1> <p>Though I cannot personally vouch for the integrity of any of these cables, <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00S2N2L5E" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StarTech</a>, <a href="https://www.cablestogo.com/product/54176/1m-usb-3.0-a-male-to-micro-b-male-cable-3.3ft" rel="nofollow noreferrer">C2G</a>, <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00C7T78H0" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cable Matters</a>, and <a href="https://www.cdw.com/product/tripp-lite-10ft-usb-3.0-superspeed-device-cable-a-male-to-micro-b-male-10ft/2157135" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tripp-Lite</a> are all fairly reputable manufactures who produce cables that fit your description.</p> <h1>Micro B (3.0) &lt;-> C</h1> <p>There are no cables of this length that I would be comfortable recommending. Per the @USBCGuy spreadsheet, the only cable in this category I'd be comfortable recommending is this <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01GGKYJG8" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AmazonBasics</a> 0.9m one, which otherwise meets your requirements.</p>

12644

2020-01-04T16:18:14.877

|usb|cable|

<p>Suggest me 3m Micro to A-Type USB and Type-C to A-Type USB cable with not less than USB 3 with not less than 2A support. I tried to find these but didn't find anywhere.</p>

Suggest me 3m Micro to A-Type USB and Type-C to A-Type USB cable with not less than USB 3 and with not less than 2A support

<p>Since the question seems to be mostly about the price difference, and not about technical differences between the two generations of CPUs, I will limit my answer to the former. Somewhere between these two generations of Intel CPUs, AMD happended. Their Threadripper CPUs and Ryzen CPUs with high core counts more or less forced retailers to lower their prices for Intel X299 CPUs, particularly the Skylake-X lineup. <a href="https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-skylake-x-price-cut-cascade-lake-x" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-skylake-x-price-cut-cascade-lake-x</a></p> <p>Then with the current 10th generation of X299 CPUs (e.g. I9-10980XE) Intel lowered MSRP for their CPUs significantly. See <a href="https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-cascade-lake-x-pricing-availability-launch-specifications-10th-generation,40526.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-cascade-lake-x-pricing-availability-launch-specifications-10th-generation,40526.html</a></p> <p>So don't let the price difference fool you into thinking the older 7th gen CPUs are that much better than current 10th gen Cascade-Lake X CPUs, or 9th gen CPUs. They just did not get the price cuts, because they are too old to be relevant in today's retail market.</p>

12650

2020-01-05T03:13:23.503

|processor|intel|

<p>I'm wondering about the pricing. I'm about to decide my next Intel CPU and according to <a href="http://www.cpu-world.com/info/Intel/processor-number.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cpu-world.com</a> </p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsuUx.png" alt="img"></p> <p>the i9-9960X has a higher frequency and otherwise the same properties as the i9-7960X. However, the 9960X is currently available for 860 Euros, while the 7960X requires almost 1700 Euros. What am I missing?</p> <p>In general, I was considering to buy a 16 core Intel CPU. I currently have an 8 core i7-5960X which served me well during the last years.</p>

Difference Intel CPU: i9-7960X and i9-9960X

<p>Some CPU models are only sold to OEMs in trays for building PCs, such as the i9-9900T in this case.</p> <p>There are many resellers selling CPUs from a tray, which MechEng has pointed out in their answer. So they are <em>technically</em> available to end-users but they are essentially 2nd-hand CPUs. Without sealed retail packaging, you might not be able to tell whether it has been installed in a system before.</p> <p>Keep in mind that Intel's tray CPUs <a href="https://www.intel.ca/content/www/ca/en/support/articles/000024255/processors.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">are not covered by any warranty.</a> The only support you will have for the CPU will be from the reseller, if any.</p>

12653

2020-01-05T17:38:13.263

|processor|desktop|intel|

<p>According to <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/191044/intel-core-i9-9900t-processor-16m-cache-up-to-4-40-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel</a> the i9-9900T was launched in Q2'19 but I can't find it in any retailers or online.</p> <p>I have tried some other T designated CPUs and no luck with those either.</p> <p>I am interested in the T designated CPUs for their low power specs, which imply lower heat dissipation hence lower noise in their cooling.</p> <p>Is the i9-9900T available for end-users at all?</p>

Intel Core i9 9900T

<p><strong>Direct Answer:</strong></p> <p>This <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_nIZeEbAZY9VGD" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Access Point</a> has what you are looking for and should work. </p> <p><strong>Recommended:</strong></p> <p>You can use any old access point if you purchase a separate switch. I recommend specifying that it is Gigabit and has the full bandwidth for all ports like <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hOZeEbFXN8348" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>. Then plug the connection to your router, the PC, and the access point all into the switch in your bedroom. </p> <p>I recommend this route because you can keep the switch for many years to come as you replace your router and AP with newer models. </p> <p><strong>Using a second router:</strong></p> <p>Typically using the WAN port on your router will cause it to act as a Router, Switch, Access Point, NAT, and Firewall. However, you can disable these features and have it act as just an Access Point and Switch. You will need to look through the settings on your router and configure it to do so. </p>

12654

2020-01-05T17:49:57.873

|wifi|networking|

<p>I have a desktop computer on my home office room that is far from the internet router. This computer has a network cable to the router so it has internet connection. But when I'm on this room, my SmartPhone and my other laptop computer can't use the WiFi from this router (because it's out of range).</p> <p>I would like a recommendation of a (dual band) Wireless Access Point that I can plug the internet cable in, but also has another cable output for my desktop PC. Most of the Access points I find has only one Ethernet port, and the ones that has two, one is labelled "WAN" and the other "LAN", which makes me a bit confused.</p> <p>I also would like my desktop computer to be on the same IP range of the other devices, I don't want to make another network inside my network, as I have a printer and NAS drive on the network. I have tried to use another router on this wired connection, but it makes another network for my devices inside my room, also the network name is different so SmartPhone takes some time to switch from one network to another when I'm walking between both networks.</p> <p>Does such product exists?</p> <p><strong>TL; DR:</strong></p> <p>Please, recommend me a Wireless AP or Router that:</p> <ul> <li>Has an Ethernet Input and at least one Ethernet output</li> <li>PC connected to the Ethernet output is on the same IP range of the rest of the other devices</li> <li>WiFi SSID and Password is the same of the main router SSID and Password, so I can walk by my house and the Phone just switches between main router and AP seamlessly</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKKcC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EKKcC.png" alt="Drawing of my house"></a></p>

One wired computer on a room far from the wireless router

<p>On criterias from the question (almost) any notebook in this price category will be fine for you.</p> <p>But you can check for example HP Elitebook 840 G2, Lenovo IdeaPad Slim. At least in European market it is hard to find i5 for 500 euro. Actually you do not need i5 to watch training videos and browse.</p>

12661

2020-01-06T15:57:30.963

|laptop|

<p>Under - RS. 40,000 - core i5 8th gen - branded laptop - only for study purpose browing and learning For online courses </p>

Suggest laptops for students

<blockquote> <p>small company (around 20 employees)... small server... access to shared storage and sync outlook tasks/calendars... and maybe do some light processing on it</p> <p>What sort of specs are recommended for running a Windows Server (mostly for Microsoft Exchange).</p> </blockquote> <p>my first recommendation would be to talk to your boss, chief information officer, or president (depending on company) because today doing what you are asking is no longer a trivial matter, especially regarding data security, legal requirements, lawsuits, etc. So you don't just want to build any old computer/server and have it wherever. Talk to whoever would be held accountable for such a problem should it arise,</p> <p>that may then lead to a dedicated server room being made available, having locked door or badged access, where you can set up resources and have it functional and reliable... <em>reusing a nice gaming rig</em> is not professional.</p> <p>basically... workstations (i.e. your thought of gaming rig) are desktop pc's which will be limited to ~ 64gb or ram and are expected to be used by one person at a time. A server can be the same hardware, but will be in a rack server form factor, hold greater than 64gb of ram, and allow for better networking capability, to allow reliable and better performance to run MS exchange mail server and provide a data share.</p> <p>you may want to look into NAS - network attached storage, which will be separate disks and hardware to provide data storage which would be separate from an MS exchange server; having one server do everything increases likelihood of everything not working one morning when something fails (and it will) so you have to plan all that out and understand what you actually need vs want vs budget. For however small a company, you just don't throw a gaming rig together to allow the company to do business; if it needs to be &quot;cheap&quot; then you may want to rethink your business strategy. You can find small business servers from DellEMC or HPE, you would call them tell them what you need and they will advise you on the type of hardware to be used, and you can always get refurbished/reconditioned if you are looking for <em>less expensive</em> equipment.</p>

12671

2020-01-07T13:33:50.507

|server|windows|cheap|

<p>I'm a new (and currently the only) IT guy at a small company (around 20 employees). I'm looking to get a small server for our company so that we could manage access to shared storage and sync outlook tasks/calendars and maybe eventually do some light processing on it. We currently don't have a dedicated room for a server (as they are noisy) so we would need to put it in one of the offices. I was thinking of reusing a nice gaming rig and adding a bit of extra RAM to use as a server as we don't have very high demand for data processing and not many users at once. What sort of specs are recommended for running a Windows Server (mostly for Microsoft Exchange).</p> <p>I don't have any experience with building and running servers so sorry if I'm asking or saying something stupid.</p> <p>Thanks in advance!</p>

Small company server

<p>The memory you linked to will not work with your hardware.</p> <p>But the issue here is not the maximum memory frequency of 2666 MT/s. Pretty much all DDR4 memory has an SPD profile for DDR4-2133, because that is the common baseline for DDR4. If you put compatible DDR4-2666 into your system, it will be clocked at DDR4-2133.<br> The problem here is capacity: While your CPU could support a total of 64GB of RAM, your mainboard only supports up to 32GB of RAM total: <a href="https://www.asus.com/de/Motherboards/H110M-A-M-2/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.asus.com/de/Motherboards/H110M-A-M-2/specifications/</a> So the maximum amount of system memory you can use is 2x16GB, and not the 2x32GB you linked.</p> <p>Edit: also, UDIMM is the only type of memory you can use in your system. RDIMM and LRDIMM are not supported.</p>

12674

2020-01-07T16:58:04.890

|memory|

<p>My PC has a clock speed of 2133 MHz. Can it work with a 2666 MHz memory module?<br> I have 2 DIMM slots. Are they compatible with UDIMM memory modules? </p> <p>My processor is an Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz.<br> BaseBoard Manufacturer: ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC.<br> BaseBoard Product: H110M-A/M.2<br> BaseBoard Version: Rev X.0x<br> BIOS: 19/09/2016 / UEFI SMBIOS Version: 3.0 </p> <p>Reference:<br> <a href="https://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/ct2k32g4dfd8266" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://uk.crucial.com/gbr/en/ct2k32g4dfd8266</a></p>

Need to know if a DDR4 SIMM is compatible with my computer

<p>Based on the product you linked and your aversion to "bedside computers", I selected alarms with a similar rear-projection type display.</p> <h1>Echo Dot (3rd gen) with clock - $45</h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOH69.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOH69.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Luckily for you, Amazon has an upcoming version of the Alexa-equipped Echo Dot that meets all the requirements. It's got a dimmable display, all the normal Alexa bells and whistles (including Bluetooth and Hue integration), and supports musical alarms with TuneIn, SiriusXM, and iHeartRadio (and if you have a change of heart and and decide to switch to to a streaming service, Amazon Music, Spotify, and Pandora.) Best of all, like all rest of the Echo line, it's quite cheap (as the hardware costs are subsidized by Amazon.) Unfortunately, they won't be back in stock until March 1st, 2020, but as long as you're willing to wait, it's a pretty solid box.</p> <h1>Sony S50G - $200</h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ci3fl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ci3fl.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>If you want better sound quality, prefer Google Assistant to Alexa, or just don't want to be quite so basic, Sony sells the SG50. Just like the Echo Dot, it's got Bluetooth, a dimmable display, and all the fancy bells and whistles that come with Google Assistant, including support for TuneIn, SiriusXM, and iHeartRadio (and again, Google Play Music, YouTube Music, Spotify, and Pandora.) Do note that there have been some (not super widespread?) <a href="https://piunikaweb.com/2019/06/07/google-home-radio-alarms-not-working-for-many-company-aware/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">reports of issues</a> with internet radio on Google Assistant though.</p>

12702

2020-01-11T15:19:40.567

|wifi|audio|music|alarm-clock|

<p>I live in a region where I don't have the luxury to have my radio channels of choice on the FM band, but I am addicted to waking up with the chatter of the radio. </p> <p>Do you know of any well-designed alarm clock that treats internet radio streams the same way the other alarm clocks treat FM radio? Namely, being able to use internet radio presets as the morning alarm.</p> <p>Note: I don't want a bedside computer, but rather a simple product like <a href="https://www.soundcore.com/products/variant/wakey/A3300121" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wakey</a> minus FM plus internet radio. </p>

Alarm Clock streaming internet radio

<p>The <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZD3B89T" rel="nofollow noreferrer">adapter you linked</a> is not bi-directional, and may not work for your application. <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207266" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This adapter</a> is bi-directional and should work for your application. <em>Note: This adapter does not allow power pass-through, so you will need to have the dock or dongle connected to its own power for this to work.</em> </p> <p>The <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Z53139N" rel="nofollow noreferrer">dock you linked</a> is a good choice. I think it will work well for you. Because you asked for a cheaper option, you can use a "dongle" with power passthrough instead of a "dock." <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07X8V3SLM" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here is one</a> that has the ports you asked for.</p>

12706

2020-01-12T21:58:24.740

|hdmi|thunderbolt|docking-stations|

<p>I'm looking for a dock that will allow my gf and I to connect 2 HDMI monitors and 2 USB mouse/keyboard devices to both a Macbook Air (2015) with thunderbolt 2 and a modern dell laptop with thunderbolt 3. The laptops would not be connected at the same time, I just want the capability to dock either one. Also charging capability for the laptop would be ideal, although I'm aware this probably might not be possible with the macbook over thunderbolt 2 -> 3 conversion.</p> <p>My thought was to buy a dock that supports tb3, for the dell and then use a tb2 -> tb3 adapter to connect the macbook to the dock.</p> <p>Something like this:</p> <p>Macbook (TB 2) ---> Converter (tb2 -> tb3) -----> TB3 Dock</p> <p>AND:</p> <p>Dell TB3 (TB3) ----> TB3 Dock</p> <ul> <li><p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZD3B89T" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-MacBook-Surface-Devices-Bi-Direction/dp/B07ZD3B89T/ref=asc_df_B07ZD3B89T/</a></p></li> <li><p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Z53139N" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Display-Docking-Charging-Thunderbolt/dp/B07Z53139N/</a></p></li> </ul> <p>Would this even work? What would be our cheapest option here?</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

Dock recommendation for Macbook Thunderbolt2 and Dell Thunderbolt 3 laptops

<p>This sounds like doing what you are looking for:</p> <p><a href="https://amzn.to/3a8rWuX" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Nobsound Little Bear MC1023 2-Way Audio Microphone Headset Speaker MIC Switcher Headphone Switch Hub Volume Control Controller Selector 3.5mm RCA</strong></a></p>

12714

2020-01-14T06:25:54.550

|audio|headset|

<p>I am looking for an audio switch for a 3.5mm headset. There seem to be tons of options (e.g. <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B073GWCRP3" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>) for a normal 3.5mm stereo switch, but they all do not support microphones. </p> <p>Thanks!</p>

3.5mm audio switch/selector

<h1>No, but there are alternatives</h1> <p>Sorry for the short answer, but unfortunately, USB just doesn't work like this. Because of... <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Communications)#Signaling_(USB_PHY)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">protocol reasons</a> that we won't dive into <a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/236983/how-does-a-usb-hub-work">here</a>, USB doesn't have anything really resembling this capability. The closest you'll get is a standard hub or KVM.</p> <p>However, what does exist are <strong>serial splitters.</strong> Since it appears that all you're doing is using a COM port, what you could do is use a USB -> serial adapter, split the serial port into several serial ports, convert the serial back to USB (or whatever you'd like), and proceed to plug those into whatever target computers you're using. If that sounds like one too many adapters, StarTech even the <a href="https://www.startech.com/Cards-Adapters/Serial-Cards-Adapters/4-Port-USB-to-RS232-Adapter~ICUSB2324" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ICUSB2324</a>, a convenient USB to quad serial adapter.</p> <p>However, there's a reason we don't all have USB and serial splitters plugged into our computers. There's almost always a better way of doing things, unless you're working with specialized, legacy hardware. Networking and virtual serial ports exist for a reason, and you're almost certainly better off using one of those. Without more info on your application I can't really say that with 100% certainty, but it's probably true.</p>

12718

2020-01-14T11:23:07.837

|usb|cable|splitters|

<p>I have a program that sends data to a USB port in order to configure connected device. I have been wondering if it's possible to copy a single signal to multiple devices.</p> <p>For example, this program sends specified data to <code>COM1</code>. I'm wondering if there's an USB cable that would be interpreted as <code>COM1</code> and could be connected to multiple devices on the other end, essentially mirroring received data to all of them?</p>

USB cable that would mirror USB signals to multiple devices