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<p><a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Single-Board-Computer/Tinker-Board/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus Tinker Board</a></p> <blockquote> <p>Thin overall architecture - I'm thinking about 1/2" thick at most, and less is better</p> <p>Around 1.2GHz processor or better - I want it to be able to run a light GUI with good responsiveness, not having to constantly wait for input to get recognized</p> <p>2GB of RAM would be great, obviously more is better</p> <p>Micro SD slot for OS (onboard memory for the OS would be fine too, as long as I can expand it with a card)</p> <p>Ability to attach a simple touchscreen - I can flex on this, if it can run a screen but can't do touch then I'll deal with it</p> <p>At least one free micro USB port - I'm flexible on power options, as long as it can be charging/powered while having a free port</p> <p>Built-in wifi (preferably also Bluetooth)</p> <p>HDMI-out would be a bonus but isn't required</p> <p>Low-budget is preferred since I'll be building a lot of it myself, but I'm willing to spend a couple hundred if something really fits the bill</p> </blockquote> <p>Tinker Board has </p> <ol> <li>1.8Ghz Quad Core CPU</li> <li>2GB DDR3 RAM</li> <li>DSI MIPI connection for a display</li> <li>Micro USB for power</li> <li>SD 3.0 microSD card slot</li> <li>Built in WiFi (and Bluetooth)</li> <li>HDMI</li> <li>Priced around $60 on <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B06VSBVQWS" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a></li> </ol> <p>I can't find the size specs, but a closer look at the links might tell you that. As mentioned in the comments, the USB ports and and such could be de-soldered without issue to give you that slim profile you are looking for.</p> <p>Other options to look at would be the <a href="http://www.orangepi.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Orange Pi</a> models, depending on your specific use.</p>

8728

2018-01-10T16:23:41.557

|linux|tablet|raspberry-pi|micro-pc|

<p>I'd like to build a homebrewed tablet-style device that can run an Ubuntu-ish OS pretty well. The easy solution for a DIY computer is the Raspberry Pi, since it has reasonable power and supports myriad customization, but it's too chunky for what I'm planning. Here's my wish-list of requirements:</p> <ol> <li>Thin overall architecture - I'm thinking about 1/2" thick at most, and less is better</li> <li>Around 1.2GHz processor or better - I want it to be able to run a light GUI with good responsiveness, not having to constantly wait for input to get recognized</li> <li>2GB of RAM would be great, obviously more is better</li> <li>Micro SD slot for OS (onboard memory for the OS would be fine too, as long as I can expand it with a card)</li> <li>Ability to attach a simple touchscreen - I can flex on this, if it can run a screen but can't do touch then I'll deal with it</li> <li>At least one free micro USB port - I'm flexible on power options, as long as it can be charging/powered while having a free port</li> <li>Built-in wifi (preferably also Bluetooth)</li> <li>HDMI-out would be a bonus but isn't required</li> <li>Low-budget is preferred since I'll be building a lot of it myself, but I'm willing to spend a couple hundred if something really fits the bill</li> </ol> <p>I'm expecting to have to do a lot of modification myself, and I'll be designing my own case (unless there's a commercial one that suits my needs). Pretty much what I'm hoping for is a slimmer RPi with the same power, just fewer ports. I know there's the Pi Zero W but its significantly reduced power and memory are too constricting. What other options are there?</p>

DIY boards for building a lightweight Linux tablet

<p>According to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphics_processing_unit#External_GPU_(eGPU)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Wikipedia article</a>, the external GPU will be connected by carrying the PCIe bus signals over a Thunderbolt connection, at the speed of upto PCIe x4 rather than x16. Now, for many general-purpose computing applications, the PCIe bandwidth is <em>already</em> a bottleneck at x16 (16 GB/sec theoretical, 12 GB/sec actual), so reducing that by a factor of 4 would be terrible. If, however, you have a lot of computation to do on every piece of data, this <em>should</em> be possible. (I'm not being definitive since I haven't tried this myself).</p> <p>It's likely, however, that the whole exercise is not worth it, and you should just get a small-form-factor PC which fits a full size GPU (<a href="https://gpunerd.com/guides/smallest-mini-itx-cases-with-gpu" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> are a few of them, in a roundup from April 2017).</p>

8731

2018-01-11T17:05:38.500

|graphics-cards|thunderbolt|

<p>Can a laptop with a AMD or Intel CPU, an AMD GPU and a Thunderbolt port connect to an external GPGPU box with a NVidia card? </p> <p>The code to run on the external GPU could be either OpenCL or CUDA based.</p>

External NVidia GPGPU on an AMD based laptop?

<p>I ended up buying <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00O6G5ZGI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Multi Monitor Video Graphics Adapter</a>* which wasn't working either until I disabled secure boot, curious to know if that prevented the other items I tried but I have what I wanted finally.</p> <p>* StarTech.com HD 1080p USB 3.0 to HDMI External Multi Monitor Video Graphics Adapter for Mac and PC</p>

8741

2018-01-12T15:44:42.220

|multiple-monitors|video-adapters|ubuntu|

<p>I recently discovered that my laptop's USB Type C port doesn't support display so I'm looking to get an external graphics adapter that will add a 3rd monitor for me (I have an HDMI port but nothing else for video).</p> <p>I saw some on Amazon, but don't know if they support Ubuntu. My laptop has USB 3 so I'm looking for an adapter that uses that as it has more speed to it.</p> <p>in case you're curious about the laptop in question its a ASUS VivoBook Pro 17 N705UQ</p>

looking for an external graphics adapter that works for ubuntu

<p>I'll open by saying I am not an authority on VR tech nor do I follow the scene as a hobby. I own an HTC Vive and have used a Rift once or twice.</p> <blockquote> <p>TL;DR: I love my Vive, I'd spend the money above the Rift to get it, but that's not the right choice for everyone. Promising tech is on the horizon. Promising options on both the lower and higher budget ends outside of the Rift and Vive.</p> </blockquote> <h2>Oculus Rift:</h2> <p><em>Pro:</em></p> <ul> <li>Cheapest by a mile (unless you also consider the newer WMR devices)</li> <li>Same resolution as Vive (1080 x 1200 per eye)</li> <li>Lighter, more ergonomic controllers</li> <li>Many say it is more comfortable than the Vive, I'd say it is about the same. Head shape will be the main factor here so try both if you can.</li> <li>Perfectly acceptable tracking</li> <li>Out-of-the-box integrated headphones</li> <li>More space for googly eyes on the front without disturbing tracking</li> </ul> <p><em>Con:</em></p> <ul> <li>Not set up for room-scale tracking out of the box (1-2 addtl tracker(s) needed @ $60 each depending on shape of your game area)</li> <li>Smaller theoretical supported roomscale area size</li> <li>Lower FOV than Vive (100 vs 110)</li> <li>Closed game ecosystem; there are very easy workarounds but it is an extra step</li> <li>Imperceptibly lower PPI than Vive</li> <li>Smaller accessory market (but they are there!)</li> <li>(Obviously subjective) Owned by Facebook</li> <li>No front camera</li> <li>Uses a ton of USB ports (one for headset, one for each tracking cam)</li> <li>Shorter cable than Vive (4m vs 5m (+1 from link box))</li> </ul> <h2>HTC Vive:</h2> <p><em>Pro:</em></p> <ul> <li>Same Resolution as Rift (1080 x 1200 per eye)</li> <li>Imperceptibly higher PPI</li> <li>Higher FOV than Rift (110 vs 100)</li> <li>Front camera</li> <li>Fewer ports on PC needed (just HDMI/DP and one USB)</li> <li>Open game ecosystem (can play Rift games with one addtl step [ReVive])</li> <li>Longer cable than Rift (5m (+1 from link box) vs 4m)</li> <li>Best tracking in the industry using Lighthouses which only need to be supplied power, not connected to PC in any way</li> <li>Richer accessory market (forehead fans, upgraded face pads like leather and velour, Deluxe Audio Strap, Vive Trackers to add more objects in VR, etc)</li> <li>Larger supported room-scale area (v1 Lighthouses can do 20' x 20' without significant loss in tracking. v2 purported to be capable of 30' x 30')</li> </ul> <p><em>Con:</em></p> <ul> <li>Twice the price of Rift (gap narrows as Rift is set up for room-scale)</li> <li>Heavier headset and controllers (I personally like the bulkier controllers, they add a sense of presence for whatever you are holding in game)</li> <li>$100 Deluxe Audio Strap to get comparable integrated headphones as those that come with Rift (could be seen as a positive if you have nice headphones you wanted to use anyway, there is a 3.5mm jack right on the headset you can hook into)</li> <li>(Subjective) Less comfortable than Rift although both have a wide range of face pads to suit your needs.</li> <li>Must be careful where googly eyes are placed to avoid disturbing tracking</li> </ul> <h2><em>Additional Vive Info:</em></h2> <p>HTC recently announced their Vive Pro which introduces a number of feature additions and upgrades:</p> <ul> <li>OOTB integrated headphones</li> <li>More ergonomic head mounting solution</li> <li>78% higher resolution (about 32% increased PPI)</li> <li>Gen 2 wands</li> <li>Gen 2 lighthouses</li> <li>Dual front cameras (dont worry, plenty of room for googly eyes)</li> </ul> <p>HMD-only (upgrade your current Vive kit, rumors of a trade-in program) scheduled for Q1 2018 (next 2 months or so) and the full kit scheduled for a Q3 release. Prices not yet confirmed.</p> <h2>PIMAX:</h2> <p>I'll be honest on this one, I haven't looked terribly hard into it. I try not to get too invested in a product until I see a consumer-ready version and with Pimax they are 100% not ready for consumers. I've heard the bump in resolution (which is certainly <em>not</em> 8k, it is 4k for each eye which is half as many pixels as 8k) is something to behold.</p> <p>I've seen a few Pimax videos and right now it sounds like the consensus is that the 200 FOV is incredible, the resolution is incredible, but the tracking is still far behind its contemporaries, and price is yet to be confirmed. Hopefully someone who follows this story closer can correct me here.</p> <p>I personally won't bother considering the Pimax until it has been in consumer rotation for a little while, but do some research as the tech is pretty impressive. And you can look like a bug person.</p> <h2>Windows Mixed Reality (WMR):</h2> <p>Another category I don't have much experience with but from what I have read this market segment is very promising. Compared to the Rift and Vive, most of these headsets are very affordable and boast a <em>higher</em> resolution and PPI. I'm not sure how broad the game support is but I know people have played some popular Vive games without much issue at all.</p> <p>One of the biggest pros for the WMR headsets is their "plug-in-and-go" style of inside-out tracking. This means that there are no external tracking devices that must be arranged in/around your play area. The limitations of this are that if your controllers are out of view of the tracking cameras on the headset they can still be tracked but only using the accelerometer, i.e. they must keep moving to be tracked. I've heard this causes problems in games that use "utility belt" style inventory systems where you otherwise would be able to interact with certain game features more naturally.</p>

8775

2018-01-25T13:20:14.100

|pc|vr-headset|

<p>I'm planning on getting a VR headset. I'm not sure which would be the best choice. Are there any recommendations about which I should choose? </p> <ol> <li>Oculus Rift</li> <li>HTC Vive</li> </ol> <p>I read about the PIMAX 8k (kickstarter project) but it is closed. Do you have other VR Headset as a recommendation? What are the pros and cons? </p> <p>Thank you really much for your help.</p>

Oculus Rift or HTC Vive?

<p><a href="https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/lg/5331-49uh850v.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG still sells a 49" model TV, the LG 49UH850V, which is UHD for 949 euro</a>, though it's tempting to get the 55" model for only 45 euro more. There is also the <a href="https://www.tvs-vergelijken.nl/samsung/5651-ue50ku6020wxxn.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung UE50KU6020WXXN 50" UHD for 579 euro,</a> which <a href="https://www.androidplanet.nl/sony/xperia-z5-premium/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">does not</a> beat the price of a <a href="https://www.maxboxvr.com/phones-work-compatible-google-cardboard" rel="nofollow noreferrer">VR-compatible smartphone</a> with that resolution, but still offers 1080p in 25". I could then buy a new computer desk, or use my wireless keyboard at my dining tables.</p>

8790

2018-01-31T03:01:58.370

|3d-display|

<p>I can find 3D displays on Amazon, but the ones still sold all appear to be active ones. As active 3D always ghosted for me, passive 3D worked perfectly (I'm even more impressed if the Street Fighter IV demo I saw in a store was converted from 2D.), and again I just bought a new non-3D TV due to lack of &lt;=48" supply, I'd like to replace my 1680x1050p 22" desktop monitor. 24" is fine, but if it would cost more than a 1080p phone with a gyroscope, I'd rather buy the latter.</p>

Passive 3D display

<h1>TL;DR: The LG 24UD58-B</h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZUEF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LZUEF.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>First, let's figure out what resolution we need to have.</p> <p>Since pretty everything on the market right now falls into either 1080p/1440p/2160p, we can ignore pretty much all other resolutions (at least for considering what we'll need in terms of resolution.)</p> <p>Your 14" 1080p laptop gets you of 157.35 PPI. Targeting a standard 23.8" 16:9 monitor, 1440p gets 123.41 PPI and 2160p gets 185.12 PPI. That in mind, you're sort of in a weird middle ground relative to your laptop. I opted to go for a 2160p monitor, but if you're fine with it, a 1440p monitor would be perfectly valid.</p> <p>That alone gets us down to two monitors: the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HKL7YJ/lg-24ud58-b-238-3840x2160-60hz-monitor-24ud58-b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG 24UD58-B</a> and the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4TWrxr/dell-monitor-p2415q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell P2415Q</a>. The price difference is pretty negligible, so it's down to picking features.</p> <p>(<a href="https://www.144hzmonitors.com/reviews/lg-27ud58-b-review/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG review</a>, <a href="https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/dell-p2415q/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell review</a>)</p> <ul> <li>Both are IPS panels (the Dell actually uses the same LG panel)</li> <li>The Dell is slightly brighter</li> <li>The LG offers FreeSync</li> </ul> <p>I'm aware you don't have an AMD GPU, but given the rather negligible difference otherwise, I'm strongly inclined to recommend the LG monitor.</p>

8799

2018-02-01T22:27:33.513

|multiple-monitors|

<p>I have a 14" 1080p laptop, which is very crisp. When I connect it to my 21" 1080p monitor, the external monitor looks blurry and ugly. What external monitor (i.e. what specs, but specific examples are welcome too) should I buy, so that I can connect it to my laptop and have both be good looking and as similar as possible?</p> <p>Also, how do I know if the laptop will be able to output to the monitor, if it's high DPI? (I have an Intel HD 620, fyi)</p> <p>Some details:</p> <ul> <li>OS: Windows 10</li> <li>Budget: ~300€, but open to recommendations with good reason</li> </ul>

Monitor for high-DPI laptop?

<h1>You can't really.</h1> <p>Per the specs page:</p> <blockquote> <p>Discrete AMD R7 A365 GPU: Permanently soldered to the motherboard and is not in card form factor</p> </blockquote> <p>There's also no Thunderbolt, so an eGPU using that is out of the question.</p> <p>The only option left would be to do use one of the PCI-e equipped M.2 slots <a href="https://support.hp.com/in-en/document/c04854832" rel="nofollow noreferrer">on the motherboard</a> and some sort of <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B073WG56FV" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M.2 to PCI-e riser</a>.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HR9jX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HR9jX.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9QSX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9QSX.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>However, I would strongly discourage this, as it'll be <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nS2CsCy5l5c" rel="nofollow noreferrer">extremely difficult to actually modify your PC to work as such.</a></p>

8809

2018-02-04T14:52:43.697

|graphics-cards|desktop|

<p>What I want to ask is does this computer can get new graphic card ? And how can I assemble it ? Also what kind of graphic card should I get to not get the GPU bottleneck ? P/S:Sorry for my bad English and the computer details is here <a href="https://support.hp.com/in-en/document/c04874664" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://support.hp.com/in-en/document/c04874664</a></p>

Get new graphic card for HP ENVY 27-p011?

<p>Definitely the GTX 1080!</p> <p>I know benchmarks aren't always showing the whole picture but when the benchmarks show 4 times the performance on a card it is obvious which one is better, for any task whatsoever. In <a href="https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=3732&amp;cmp%5B%5D=3502" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Videocard Benchmarks</a> it is a difference between 3376 for the Quadro M2200 and 12185 for the 1080.</p> <p>While Quadros have some benefits in workstation kind of devices since they are specifically targeted for these kinds of workloads, but not when you compare one of the top latest GTX cards to a mid (if now lower) range and older generation Quadro (you wouldn't even find a lot of "vs." articles online about these two, since the M2200 is compared which much lower-end GTXs.)</p>

8857

2018-02-18T09:38:49.113

|laptop|graphics-cards|mobile-workstation|

<p>I am hunting for a good bang-for-buck workstation laptop for a friend of mine, he is looking to retire his trusty laptop of 3 years, with a new laptop with a much better GPU. He is a civil and a mechanical engineer, so I would figure he would be designing build support systems, walls and other complex mesh objects.</p> <p>He uses AutoCAD, CAD, Autodesk, TurboCAD, 3DS Maya and Meshmixer in his line of work. With this in mind, I found two laptops that are within his budget of 2200USD on eBay.</p> <p>Here are the specs of the first one --></p> <ul> <li>MSI WE72 7RJ</li> <li>Core i7 7700HQ</li> <li>16GB DDR4 RAM @ 2400MHz</li> <li>Quadro M2200 4GB</li> <li>512GB SATA SSD with a 1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive.</li> <li>Listed Price - 1900 USD Including Shipping</li> </ul> <p>And here is the specs of the next laptop</p> <ul> <li>Asus ROG GL702VI-WB74</li> <li>Core i7 7700HQ</li> <li>16GB DDR4 RAM @ 2400MHz</li> <li>GTX 1080 8GB Max-Q</li> <li>256GB NVMe SSD with a 1TB 7200RPM Hard Drive</li> <li>Listed Price - 2190 USD Including Shipping</li> </ul> <p>I would have figured get the GTX 1080 Laptop, as it has more CUDA Cores, more VRAM and a higher clock speed then the Quadro Card, but the GTX 1080 Laptop is optimized for high-end gaming performance, and not CAD Work. But the Quadro is optimized for workstation usage, and should out perform the 1080 in these types of workloads, right?</p> <p>I did a quick Google search, but that didn't yield the results I was hoping for.</p> <p>Long story short, which of the two laptops would you recommend for my friend here, and why? If you have a better recommendation than these two laptops that I have listed, please don't hesitate to mention it. I will take all the help I can get!</p> <p>On a side note and completely irrelevant, I tried convincing him to build a desktop workstation with a better Quadro GPU locally for the same amount, but he insisted that it be a workstation laptop, as he jets around the world and the country on work.</p>

Quadro M2200 vs GTX 1080 Workstation Laptop for AutoCAD and 3DS Maya?

<p>Found, at last: <a href="https://www.qnap.com/en-uk/product/ts-453bt3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">QNAP TS-453BT3</a></p>

8862

2018-02-19T15:02:57.830

|hard-disk|nas|ethernet|thunderbolt|

<p>I am looking for a hard disk/SSD/NAS with both these interfaces: </p> <ul> <li>Thunderbolt 3</li> <li>Ethernet, 1 GbE or 10 GbE</li> </ul> <p>So far I only found TB+USB and Eth+USB.</p> <p>Does the combination I am looking for exist?</p>

Does this exist: HDD/SSD with Thunderbolt 3 AND Ethernet?

<blockquote> <p>The drives will be purchased separately from the NAS.</p> </blockquote> <p>I suggest your better off building a PC.</p> <p>Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD</p> <p>Case with 3 5.25 bays are easy to come by. I have a SSD enclosure that fits into a 5.25 bay that holds 4 SSD. Also using 2x 5.25 bays you can easily have room for 2 or even 3 regular hdd.</p> <p>2 hdd per raid limits you to striping or mirroring and some motherboards have built in controllers which can handle these modes easily.</p> <p>pcie card for 10gb, you can even have a dual or quad card. pcie card for thunderbolt.</p> <p>Even if you go crazy your budget makes this project easy.</p> <p>$800 for amd x1800, 16gb, and asus x370-pro (which even has a M.2 ssd port for 2gb/s) $200 for a case,psu, removeable hdd enclosure and ssd 4x in 5.25bay</p> <p>$150 for a slight older intel dual 10gb card</p> <p>$600 for an adaptec 7805(or similar) raid controller.(because I got money to burn)</p> <p><a href="https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboard-Accessory/ThunderboltEX-3/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboard-Accessory/ThunderboltEX-3/</a> $79 <a href="https://www.cdw.com/product/ASUS-ThunderboltEX-3-Thunderbolt-adapter/4259577?cm_cat=GoogleBase&amp;cm_ite=4259577&amp;cm_pla=NA-NA-ASU_IN&amp;cm_ven=acquirgy&amp;ef_id=WdOaEAAAAIMrZiAP:20180323201802:s&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-cfe9KGD2gIVD4rICh2-WguNEAkYASABEgLEaPD_BwE&amp;s_kwcid=AL!4223!3!198553132221!!!g!315976140630" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.cdw.com/product/ASUS-ThunderboltEX-3-Thunderbolt-adapter/4259577?cm_cat=GoogleBase&amp;cm_ite=4259577&amp;cm_pla=NA-NA-ASU_IN&amp;cm_ven=acquirgy&amp;ef_id=WdOaEAAAAIMrZiAP:20180323201802:s&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-cfe9KGD2gIVD4rICh2-WguNEAkYASABEgLEaPD_BwE&amp;s_kwcid=AL!4223!3!198553132221!!!g!315976140630</a>!</p> <p>$100 for any low end video card</p> <hr> <p>Still have money left, party time.</p>

8869

2018-02-20T18:31:42.210

|hard-disk|ssd|nas|raid|

<p>I have to buy a NAS storage, with a set of simultaneous opposite requirements. In particular, high speed, lots of space and small budget.</p> <p>Can I do something like:<br> - Use a NAS with four bays, two for large HDD, and two for fast SSD.<br> - Set up a RAID just for the two HDD.<br> - Set up a separate RAID just for the two SSD (if needed). </p> <p>Is this a feasible configuration?</p> <p>Can I buy a single NAS solution to be used for both high performance and large data storage?</p> <p>These are a few numbers to quantify my requirements:<br> - NAS: 4 bays, 10 Gb Ethernet, Thunderbolt 3.<br> - HDD: 2, 10 TB each, 7200 rpm, SATA.<br> - SSD: 2, 1 TB each, SATA. </p> <p>The drives are going to be purchased separately from the NAS.</p> <p>Budget: £2600.</p> <p>Purpose: store and read video from multiple cameras in real-time.</p>

I need a NAS solution with conflicting requirements

<p>So I ended up buying a 6s for now and buying a SnowLizard 6 case for the phone. The battery is excellent with the case and I can plug my on headphones in when needed.</p>

8872

2018-02-22T02:03:17.680

|case|apple|

<p>I drop my iPhone 6 a lot but also need that extended battery and wired headphones. </p> <p>Is there a life proof that has a battery or that fits on top of the Apple Battery Case? Alternatively a battery case that is near indestructible.</p> <p>EDIT: So this question was originally about iPhone 7, but I have edited to be the iPhone 6s/6(so that I could answer the question) with my solution.</p>

Drop resistant iPhone 6 battery case

<h2>Over Ear</h2> <p>I've got the <strong><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071G837F4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LinkWitz Casque Bluetooth</a></strong> headphones, which are an over-ear pair of wireless headphones with passive noise cancelling and a microphone.</p> <p><img src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/712ymrouzzL._SX522_.jpg" alt="LinkWitz Casque Bluetooth over-ear headphones in black"></p> <p>They run on a rechargeable battery (charges via microUSB - comes with a charging cable, though you probably already have one) that I've found lasts about 12-15 hours of regular but intermittent use. I imagine continuous use would see more like 8-10 hours.</p> <p>The microphone is reasonable quality - it's nestled in among the controls on the left-hand side - good enough for clear voice calls.</p> <p>The audio quality feels a little distant, slightly lacking in mid-range frequencies, but bass response is excellent and a system equalizer can easily clean up the mid-ranges without much adjustment.</p> <p>The only issue you may have with them is the earphone size - the inner diameter is just 30mm, so you do need relatively small ears for them to fit comfortably over the top.</p> <p>Generally, though, they're good headphones. I got mine on sale for around £25, but the RRP is around £80.</p>

8878

2018-02-24T00:23:19.127

|headphones|microphones|

<p>So I have decided that the best course of action is to adopt wireless headphones now that the iPhone's headphone jack is gone(and Pixel). Unfortunately though I need like 10+ battery performance all day. It also needs a mic although the mic doesn't have to be perfect quality.</p> <p>Is something like this even possible?</p>

Long Battery Wireless Headphones With Mic - iPhone

<p>I chose Fractal Design Define XL R2, the drive caddies have correct mounting holes.</p>

8892

2018-02-27T08:22:59.470

|hard-disk|case|sata|

<p>I am searching for a ATX case with proper mouting holes for the new high-capacity 3.5' HDDs. (seagate archive 8TB). </p> <p>All atx cases have mounting holes only for middle screws and cannot properly mount these HDDs with 4 screws.</p> <p>I am not interested in alternative mounting like sleds,caddies,rubber bands etc.</p> <p>I need at least 6 mounting positions for 6 HDDs</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CTYoc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CTYoc.jpg" alt="hdd without middle holes for screws"></a></p> <p><strong>Can anyone recommend an ATX case which has proper holes for screws for 6 drives?</strong></p> <p>Thank you very much</p>

ATX case with far holes for 3.5' HDD

<p>It would be a pulse sensor to read one's pulse rate while exercising by the transmission of ultraviolet light or maybe infrared light through the skin to the receptor on the opposite side. It clips to one's fingertip. As blood flows through the smaller vessels, the light is alternately blocked and allowed to pass, providing appropriate data for the device into which it is connected.</p>

8893

2018-02-27T12:25:17.797

|power-supply|headphones|

<p>Found it at the office and I am curious about it. What is this cable used for? Thanks.</p> <p>It doesn't let me upload the image, so here is the link: </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzGRF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzGRF.jpg</a></p>

Identify this cable!

<p>At 9 (I know...it's not 10...) feet the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01GGKZ3MM" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable</strong></a> should be a great option.</p> <p>officially supports fast charging (and some pixel owners confirm in the Q&amp;As, and has a 5-star rating from Google Engineer and famous USB Type-C reviewer Benson Leung.</p>

8924

2018-03-08T18:09:14.150

|usb|cable|

<p>To charge my Pixel XL. The supplied cable is too short for my needs. USB-C to USB-A is viable but I'd need a compatible fast charge adapter as well. I'm not seeing a whole lot of availability in the 10 foot range, at least not anything from well known manufacturers.</p> <p>Can anyone recommend a 10 foot USB-C to USB-C cable for a Pixel XL?</p> <p>OR</p> <p>Can anyone recommend a 10 foot USB-C to USB-A cable and compatible fast charge adapter for a Pixel XL?</p>

I'm looking for USB-C to USB-C cable that is 10ft long

<p>I found something that may meet your requirements, for a rather good price (US Dollars) in a product called the <a href="https://www.dataq.com/products/di-1100/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoqSTsqfj2QIVl0wNCh2snwz3EAYYASABEgKSi_D_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DATAQ DI-1100 data acquisition starter kit</a>.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuORX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuORX.jpg" alt="DI-1100 kit"></a></p> <p>Four analog inputs up to +/-10v with provided software allowing for computer data storage and processing. The connections are screw terminals, not mini-plugs, although it's a simple matter to add such a junction device of your own design and construction.</p> <p>The specifications note that you should be able to accomplish 20-24kHz sampling for the limited number of inputs you require.</p> <p>There are PDF documents on the site providing greater detail as well as the operation manual. The manual indicates a mini-USB is used for power and communication.</p> <p>The included software manual has a section allowing for exporting files to be used in Excel, although it references the more-or-less universal CSV file format, precluding the data from being restricted to Excel.</p>

8936

2018-03-11T01:54:54.993

|usb|

<p>I am attempting a simple data acquisition project. I have a 5V analog signal from a pressure transducer on 2-3 channels. I need to convert this to a digital signal that I can acquire on my PC. Ideally, this would involve a USB. I need to monitor this signal real-time and be able to export to CSV or text format. Sampling frequency is not critical (20 kHz is ok). </p> <p>Hoping to purchase a data acquisition card/box that would work with minimal programming and tinkering. Would be nice if it worked with a 1/4" jack on the analog side (or even RCA or 3.5 mm). Also looking for guidance on software for this project. I feel like this should be an easy project but having difficulty finding exactly what I need and since I haven't done anything like this before, a bit afraid to jump in. Hoping someone can point me in the direction regarding what to buy. Thanks!</p>

Hardware suggestions for a simple data acquisition unit

<p>I went for an Acer Predator Helios 500 with an AMD Ryzen 2700 8 core processor, 512GB SSD and 1TB normal hard drive. The processor is socketed, so could theoretically be upgraded later.</p> <p>It can be upgraded to 4x16GB RAM if the 2 factory fitted 8GB RAM modules are replaced, as they are single rank, but 16GB modules appear to be double rank and they are not compatible. Note that the bus speed may go down if mounting more / different modules. (If you do this, note that the first two slots are not user-accessible.)</p> <p>For anybody interested, the cost was €1927 plus ~€285 for extra RAM plus €20 to switch the modules. Hopefully I can sell the old RAM modules for €80 or more. So approx. €2150 with 32GB of RAM - I now just need to get another SODIMM or two.</p>

8939

2018-03-12T13:29:36.083

|laptop|portable|

<p>I am looking for a powerful laptop/or "schleptop" portable.</p> <p>Important:</p> <ul> <li><p>64GB RAM, dual channel (currently development environment, particularly GWT requirements, occasionally gives trouble if running other things in 32GB).</p></li> <li><p>I'd prefer 12-16 threads (our software and IDE extensions are well threaded, 8 threads are a limitation for the latter at times).</p></li> </ul> <p>Because of business practices and recent security/performance issues, I would like to try out an AMD Ryzen CPU.</p> <ul> <li>256GB solid state storage. A hybrid SSD/platter hard drive is fine as long as total storage is 1TB minimum.</li> </ul> <p>Not so important:</p> <p>Graphics. Preferably not internal Intel graphics. Internal AMD graphics would be fine, but I think you cannot get this with more than 4 cores/8 threads. So the best option is likely relatively low grade discrete mobile graphics from AMD or nVIDIA.</p> <p>I can connect to HD televisions or monitors, so the screen size/quality is not very important.</p> <p>I'd prefer having a built in DVD drive, but it is not essential.</p> <p>Battery life - heavy duty jobs would be done on mains, so not high on the list.</p> <p>17" footprint preferred.</p> <hr> <p>I understand this will cost me - as portability/smaller form factors usually do. I am hoping it is possible within £2500/$3000. I like not having to take a separate keyboard along and to be able to use it while travelling, however a small form factor PC is also an acceptable solution if it fits in aircraft cabin luggage.</p> <p>While it runs slightly against my lack of screen/graphics requirements, I am willing to try a "gaming laptop", assuming these are expected to handle moderate CPU use. For example, I noticed that ASUS has one with a Ryzen 7 1700 CPU, which might be feasible except it appears to have a 32GB RAM limit.</p> <p>I can wait a couple of months in case somebody knows something is on the horizon, which I don't know about. Thank you for any ideas.</p>

Laptop or portable computer with 64GB RAM

<p>A typical solar panel electrical package will include a series of solar panels (rating and quantity based on expected load), a charge controller, a battery bank (rating and quantity based on expected load) and an inverter (yes, rating based on expected load).</p> <p>If you are confident that you will need 1000 watts of power, you should be configuring your system for at least twenty percent more than that, as one does not achieve one hundred percent efficiency from solar panels. If one is in an area of less than ideal weather conditions, one should increase the size proportionally. For the sake of this answer, I'll stick with the 1200 watt value.</p> <p>In the USA, <a href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Renogy-1200-Watt-12-Volt-Polycrystalline-Solar-Cabin-Kit-for-off-grid-solar-system-KIT-CABIN1200P/301855416" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Home Depot</a> sells a 1200 watt system with 4 panels of 77 inches by 14 inches (1.9m x .35m) which is quite a large array. These panels include micro-inverters, one m-inverter per panel and provide AC voltage directly to the included controller and sub-panel.</p> <p>This is not the type of system you would want if your intention is to run the computer continuously, but is provided as an example of the size of panels and general configuration.</p> <p>A company called <a href="https://www.armorysurvival.com/product/inergy-solar-gold-combo-kit/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2KzGxdbp2QIVAkwNCh2V0g4QEAQYAiABEgICD_D_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Armory Survival(!)</a> sells an 1100 watt system, also with 4 panels of similar size, but has an off-grid configuration that permits battery connection. Very expensive bundles that do not include batteries means additional expense to have continuous (night) electrical power.</p> <p>A frequent discussion in the electric vehicle world is the concept of a motor vehicle powered by solar panels exclusively. It's a different type of portability, but the numbers are equally challenging.</p> <p>I'm not confident that you'll find a system to meet your requirements, especially considering the balcony constraint. Additionally, if your balcony does not point toward geographic south, the efficiency deteriorates for lack of solar energy.</p>

8946

2018-03-13T13:38:22.693

|power-supply|solar-power|

<p>I hope someone has some knowledge about whether it is recommended (and if so, what specifically) to invest in solar panels in order to power a PC of about 1000 watts, that will run 24/7 (to do machine learning). If the setup works, I might wish to add another PC over time (with an extra panel).</p> <p>Living in an apartment (in Europe), the solar panels should be more or less mobile so I can mount them on the balcony.</p> <p>I hope to reduce the burden on the environment as well as on my wallet eventually :)</p> <p>Thanks for any advice!</p>

Recommended (mobile) solar panels for PC setup with a power-supply of 800-1000 watt

<p>The <strong>Ultimate Ears MEGABOOM</strong> is a really good option.</p> <p>Now on Amazon UK for £127.99 <strong><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PDUE8TG" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PDUE8TG</a></strong></p> <ul> <li>Charges via typical Micro USB.</li> <li>Has a 3.5mm aux input</li> </ul> <p>But in general, it is a solid good speaker with awesome battery life and great sound.</p> <p>As for your USB charging question: if it uses the same connection it will usually charge with any such connection if something it just won't charge that fast.</p>

8948

2018-03-13T21:26:40.247

|bluetooth|speakers|

<p>I am looking for a bluetooth speaker that can:</p> <ul> <li>charge through USB, so I don't have to worry about not losing a proprietary charger</li> <li>connect through a 3.5 mm line in (aux input) - so I can use it as a regular speaker with any device</li> </ul> <p>The budget is 150 Euro maximum</p> <p>Yet an important question is: if the speaker has the USB charging feature, then it can charge with any USB charger or maybe some of such speakers can only charge when using their own USB charger?</p>

Bluetooth speakers with USB charging and line in (aux input)

<p>I have a device connected to my computer which allows me to select between speakers and headphones at the press of a button. I recognize that your request is not quite that configuration, but the circuit involved in this specific device would function in the manner you require if connected "in reverse."</p> <p>A quick search using the Google for "headphone speaker switch box" has provided the expected multitude of results, for example: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B015FJ9WMW" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Speaker Headphone switch</a></p> <p>I would not recommend this linked item, however, as it contains a volume control. There's no way to determine if any polarity protection is built into such a circuit, although it is unlikely. </p> <p>The box I use is only a switch, the electrons flow in either direction with no problem. It has both speaker and headphone jacks and microphone jacks.</p> <p>You would want to cull out any that have active circuits (requiring external power) and possibly any with a volume control (although that might not be a factor) and aim for the switch box configuration that matches your plug and jack arrangement.</p> <p>All computers using 1/8" mini-plugs will require that the switch have plug connections to the PC. In your description, you'd have to have one that had jacks instead of plugs, which is unlikely. To accomplish such connections, you would either cut the plugs off and replace it with jacks or purchase female to female adapters to jumper those connections.</p> <p>The other locations in the switch would be jacks to accept the expected headphones and speakers, while your intent is to connect the phone circuit and the computer circuit. This would be accomplished with either male to female jumpers or male to male jumpers, both of which are commonly available online.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCFxU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCFxU.jpg" alt="jack image"></a></p> <p>Another reason the above linked product is unsuitable is that there is no provision for a microphone. Ensure when you search that the product allows for switching both microphone and headset when performing the button press.</p>

8976

2018-03-18T21:45:20.713

|headset|

<p>I have a nice headset with a mic and I like using it for gaming and for using my phone. This means when my phone rings and I'm on my computer I have to unplug it from the computer, put on the adapter for the phone (to combine the mic and audio jacks) plug it in the phone and do it in reverse when I'm done. Is there some kind of switch out there that would allow me to put them both in as sources and just turn a dial to change what goes in the headset? How makeable would that be? (I have very basic knowledge in electronics but I do have access to a fab lab)</p>

Switch headset source

<p>I decided to go with the <a href="http://support.logitech.com/en_us/product/wireless-wave-combo-mk550" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Logitech^® Wireless Wave Combo MK550</a>. </p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003VAHYNC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon list price</a>: <strong>$54.00</strong> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkRd5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkRd5.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> ^{Image from <a href="https://www.amazon.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a>}</p> <hr> <p>Here's how it compared to my requirements:</p> <h2>Shared Requirements:</h2> <ul> <li>Wireless <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Excellent battery performance (Ideally 18+ months) <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>No Bluetooth, unless the devices include a Bluetooth USB transmitter <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Full/Regular Size (No "mini" or "travel" sizes) <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Right-Handed <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>QWERTY <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Not the Anker model <code>98ANWPSS-K1M1A</code> (but can be similar) <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> </ul> <h2>Keyboard Requirements:</h2> <ul> <li>Full key set, which include dedicated¹ numpad and function keys <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Minimal+ media keys (such as Play, Pause, Stop, RW, FF) and volume control <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Windows Key <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Quiet <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0cqM.jpg" alt="Disputed"></li> </ul> <h3>Keyboard Like to Haves:</h3> <ul> <li>OS Sleep key is nice <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Shortcut to calculator is also nice <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Flat Keys <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/el1Ax.png" alt="Failed"></li> <li>Wrist bar <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>I am a programmer, so a dedicated¹ Pause (Break) button is nice <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>I take screen shots, so a dedicated¹ Print Screen button is also nice <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> </ul> <h2>Mouse Requirements/Preferences:</h2> <ul> <li>5-button design <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Mouse wheel includes the "left/right" clicks <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Rubber thumb (preferred) <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>Laser preferred over optical, but not required <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> <li>I use a mouse pad, so doesn't need any special tracking requirements <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JckQN.png" alt="Passed"></li> </ul>

8977

2018-03-18T22:01:59.267

|wireless|keyboards|mice|

<p>I am looking into buying a new mouse and keyboard combo. I define "combo" as in using one single USB port for both devices.</p> <p>I strongly prefer to buy on Amazon, but I can live without.</p> <p>Preferred Price range is $60 - $125 USD (~ £40 - £90), but I can be flexible.</p> <h2>Shared Requirements:</h2> <ul> <li>Wireless</li> <li>Excellent battery performance (Ideally 18+ months)</li> <li>No Bluetooth, unless the devices include a Bluetooth USB transmitter</li> <li>Full/Regular Size (No "mini" or "travel" sizes)</li> <li>Right-Handed</li> <li>QWERTY</li> <li>Not the Anker model <code>98ANWPSS-K1M1A</code> (but can be similar)</li> </ul> <h2>Keyboard Requirements:</h2> <ul> <li>Full key set, which include dedicated¹ numpad and function keys</li> <li>Minimal+ media keys (such as Play, Pause, Stop, RW, FF) and volume control</li> <li><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sG0IB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Windows Key</a></li> <li>Quiet</li> </ul> <h3>Keyboard Like to Haves:</h3> <ul> <li>OS Sleep key is nice</li> <li>Shortcut to calculator is also nice</li> <li>Flat Keys</li> <li>Wrist bar</li> <li>I am a programmer, so a dedicated¹ Pause (Break) button is nice</li> <li>I take screen shots, so a dedicated¹ Print Screen button is also nice</li> </ul> <h2>Mouse Requirements/Preferences:</h2> <ul> <li>5-button design</li> <li>Mouse wheel includes the "left/right" clicks</li> <li>Rubber thumb (preferred)</li> <li>Laser preferred over optical, but not required</li> <li>I use a mouse pad, so doesn't need any special tracking requirements</li> </ul> <hr> <p>_{¹ Without the use of a special function key.}</p>

Looking for a modestly priced Wireless Keyboard & Mouse Combo

<h1>Answers up front:</h1> <blockquote> <p>does it support an additional SSD or have I to replace its current HDD with a new SSD?</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes, you should* be able to install an M.2 SSD alongside your current HDD (see below). You can also replace the current 2.5 inch HDD with a 2.5 inch SSD.</p> <blockquote> <p>And which form factor should I look for when shopping?</p> </blockquote> <p>The M.2 SSD and 2.5 inch HDD / SSD / SSHD form factors are compatible with your laptop. I do not recommend SSHD &quot;hybrid&quot; drives, they're extra money for no real world gain.</p> <hr /> <h1>Explanation and source</h1> <p>Here's a nicely detailed teardown I found:</p> <p><a href="https://www.laptopmain.com/msi-gp62mvr-6rf-leopard-pro-disassembly-and-ram-hdd-ssd-upgrade-options/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.laptopmain.com/msi-gp62mvr-6rf-leopard-pro-disassembly-and-ram-hdd-ssd-upgrade-options/</a></p> <p>I'm operating under the assumption that you have a &quot;MSI Leopard GP62MVR 6RF&quot; <em>PRO</em>, as I can't find any info on other models.</p> <p>From the picture in the link, your laptop supports a 2.5 inch standard form factor HDD / SSD as well as an M.2 SSD.</p> <p>Seems to me that if you took the HDD option, the M.2 slot will be empty. You can pop off the bottom of the laptop and check for yourself. If this is the case, you can definitely order a compatible M.2 SSD and install it fairly easily.</p> <hr /> <h1>Part Recommendation</h1> <p>I'll be happy to help you pick out a specific component if you can confirm that you have the &quot;PRO&quot; model of the laptop for me. Don't want to waste time researching for the wrong model laptop.</p>

8989

2018-03-21T13:12:34.810

|ssd|

<p>I own a MSI Leopard GP62MVR 6RF with an standard HDD. I want to upgrade it with a new SSD but my question is: does it support <strong>an additional</strong> SSD or have I to <strong>replace</strong> its current HDD with a new SSD? And which form factor should I look for when shopping?</p> <p>There's a similar question <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/1952/additional-ssd-for-msi-ge62-apache-pro">here</a> but I'm not sure is the model are fully compatible nor if the asker will be able to have 2 drives.</p> <p>Also, the 3rd response of <a href="https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=289610.0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this thread</a> talks about a "combo" slot but again I'm not sure if that answers my question.</p> <p>Thanks!</p> <p>Edit: The answer was correct and I now have a SSD and a HDD installed in my laptop.</p>

Upgrading my laptop MSI HDD to SSD

<p>Not Bluetooth, but wifi, therefore it qualifies for "other wireless technology, the "aiball" camera comes in as a candidate. Available on <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AYO96I4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a>, as well as a few other locations, it doesn't come in with high praises via the reviews.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDCMS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDCMS.jpg" alt="aiball camera"></a></p> <p>Here's the better part of this answer. Once you visit the Amazon link, you see other small wireless cameras that may give you the solution in a better manner than the aiball cam.</p>

8992

2018-03-21T21:50:05.097

|video-camera|camera|mobile-phone|arduino|microcontroller|

<p>I want to find a tiny camera or camera module that can stream its videos via Bluetooth or other wireless technology. I want to use that camera as an accessory that can be attached to a body part. The video quality is not important. Important is that I can stream the videos with a mobile device via wireless technology while carrying this camera as an accessory. Any suggestions?</p> <p>P.S. You can also suggest two separate parts that I could put together to achieve this goal, e.g. camera and bluetooth module separately.</p>

Portable camera with bluetooth or some other wireless technology support

<p>Your question might be more of an engineering line of reasoning, but it's still hardware related. </p> <p>Consider the mounting points for your mainboard. They are "scattered" around the board based on standards for case mount placement. They are almost certainly engineered to take stress from the components on the board and transfer that to the stand-offs attached to the case.</p> <p>In that configuration, the forces are more-or-less evenly distributed over the mainboard, perhaps with additional mount holes near high-load areas such as the processor and heat sink assembly.</p> <p>I have assembled a couple computer boards which did not have stand-offs in the case but had mounting holes. This was a flaw or failure in the case engineering but had little effect on the installation.</p> <p>In your case, literally and figuratively, you would want to ensure that every mounting hole was properly secured and supported the board. If your intent is to secure the mainboard only at the edges, I would suggest that is contra-indicated. To secure all of the points, it would be necessary to build "branches" from behind the board to secure where possible, or in front of the board, providing support from either side.</p> <p>The best support will be provided by branches that are perpendicular to the mainboard. Those that are not would allow some flex in the structure. If one cannot create a perpendicular-to-the-board branch, one should consider both a vertical and a horizontal branch joined at the mount point.</p> <p>I would not suggest that it is "wiser" to avoid such a construction, as the other factors for this design have not been referenced.</p>

8995

2018-03-22T15:13:08.457

|motherboard|case|

<p>I am making my own case and wish to have the motherboard mounted with an angle 'forward' so that the motherboard would be hanging somewhat more than in the regular 90 degree mounting position.</p> <p>But I have some worries about this causing strain on the motherboard, and how this may affect it on the long term (say 2 years of 24/7 usage).</p> <p>I won't be using a big cooling radiator, rather I will mount a water cooling block (which may or may not put more strain on it).</p> <p>Does anyone have thoughts about this, is it something I can do without too much worrying or is it wiser to avoid such a construction?</p> <p>Many thanks in advance.</p>

Tilted motherboard (45 degrees) - is it safe for the long term?

<h2>Summary</h2> <p>£100 is a pretty tight constraint, so I won't be able to pull into too many bells and whistles into this recommendation. What I managed to get as a baseline along these three tablets is <strong>32 eMMC internal storage</strong> and <strong>2 gb of RAM</strong>. I've recommended products you could purchase today that should be available to you in the UK. The only differences between these tablets is the CPUs:</p> <ul> <li>Option 1: Slowest</li> <li>Option 2: Slightly Better</li> <li>Option 3: Significantly Better</li> </ul> <hr> <h2>Cheapest Option: Onda V80 SE Tablet £71.85 @ <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAG56NT2967" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newegg</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmSRZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmSRZ.jpg" alt="Onda V80 SE Tablet"></a></p> <p>This tablet features Android 5.1 and based on <a href="http://www.androidcrush.com/onda-v80-se-tablet-review/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">it's review</a> it features a older Intel Atom Z3735F Quad Core (Release: Apr, 2014). It's <a href="http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-x5-Z8350-vs-Intel-Atom-Z3735F" rel="nofollow noreferrer">benchmarks</a> indicate this it will operate slower than any of the 3 options, meaning it will be the least "snappy" when used.</p> <h2>Slightly Better Option: Onda V80 Plus £90.60 @ <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD336HF8039" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newegg</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbQyH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbQyH.png" alt="Onda V80 Plus"></a></p> <p>This tablet features Android 5.1 + Windows 10 (I would recommend using the Android OS unless you need the additional features of Windows). It is functionally the same as the previous option, but with 2 OS's and a slightly better processor, Intel x5-Z8350 (Release: Jan, 2016) (it's Passmark score suggests it will perform about 26.5% better than the previous option). You might even want to consider uninstalling the Windows operating system for a little more space as it doesn't sound like the extra functionality is worth the performance hit.</p> <h2>Budget Stretcher: Teclast P10 £98.99 @ <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD336HF8103" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newegg</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhvJs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhvJs.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The most powerful of the Tablet options and using the newer Android 7.1 OS, this tablet will stretch your budget, however it is marginally more powerful (<a href="https://www.androidbenchmark.net/phone.php?phone=Rockchip%20rk3368-box" rel="nofollow noreferrer">according to benchmarks</a>). It's cpu (RK 3368-H) Passmark score suggest it will perform about 2.6x better than the Onda Plus option. This option will be the "snappiest" and unlike the previous Onda Plus option, won't come with the wasted space of Windows 10. Consider this option if you want the most bang for buck performance wise.</p> <hr> <h2>Keyboard: Wanmingtek Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Combo £16.99 @ <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/uk/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD8F6ME3049&amp;cm_re=bluetooth_keyboard-_-9SIAD8F6ME3049-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Newegg</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlb1c.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlb1c.jpg" alt="Wanmingtek Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Combo £16.99 @ "></a></p> <p>None of the tablets I curated came with keyboards, most likely because of the low end price restriction. It's a cheap blue-tooth keyboard, weighs less than 300 grams and will get the job done. It also comes with a mouse if you don't feel like touching your screen. This will unfortunately put, option 2/3 slightly over budget.</p>

9000

2018-03-24T17:43:03.277

|tablet|

<p>There are Easter Revision Sessions coming up and I can't write well so I am looking for something tablet/laptop that I will be able to write in. I also aim to use this for work for the next two years, as I need something inexpensive to take into school to write for Sixth Form.</p> <ul> <li><p>It needs to be cheap enough (under £100 but I can stretch just over <em>reluctantly</em>) so that I can take it in, I don't want to take something very expensive in case it gets lost/damaged.</p></li> <li><p>I also require it to be small and lightweight enough that I will be able to walk it to school every day and for it to fit in my bag.</p></li> <li><p>It needs to come with some form of a keyboard. If the device does not already have one then I will have to purchase one which will have to be compensated in the cost.</p></li> <li><p>It needs to have WiFi as I will be using Google Docs for the work. This means that it can have a low internal storage.</p></li> <li><p>It doesn't need to be that powerful, just enough that I am able to get my work done.</p></li> <li><p>A USB port as an optional extra, but this is not required.</p></li> <li><p>It needs a decent battery life because I will be using it for several hours, and a plug may not always be present all of the time.</p></li> </ul> <p>It also needs to be purchasable in the UK</p>

Cheap device to take to school for light work

<h2>Summary</h2> <p>It's going to be difficult to find laptops that have a 4/5 battery life without sacrificing on performance. I have decided to curate 3 laptops an I think you'll see that it may be worth it to go for a slightly cheaper option that has much more performance. <strong>As a student it would be strange if you were to be in a position to code without any power near by (library, cafes, etc) unless you explicitly tried to code somewhere without power.</strong></p> <p>You also stated that you wanted the laptops to cost less than 1,300$ USD, but since I am recommending laptops that you can purchase today to be shipped to Bulgaria, I had to use the exchange rate: <strong>1.3k USD -> 2,063.75 Bulgarian Levs</strong>.</p> <h2>XPS 13: Long battery life at the cost of performance</h2> <p>лв 2,068.97 at <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/bg/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA0ZX5JE8166" rel="nofollow noreferrer">newegg</a>, MSRP лв 2,483.46 <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ppzj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ppzj.jpg" alt="XPS 13"></a></p> <p>This XPS 13 configuration has a <strong>7200U processor</strong>. If you're not familiar with the Intel letter system, U stands for power saver, which means that the <strong>processor is designed for long battery life instead of performance</strong>. It also features <strong>8gb of DDR3 RAM</strong> and a <strong>128 gb ssd</strong>. It has no dedicated graphics card which will also help for longer battery life. This laptop is in common use by university engineering students in the US (usually in it's more powerful, less battery efficient variants in order to support 3D modeling).</p> <p>According to <a href="https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/dell-xps-13" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this review</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The XPS 13 9370 with 1080p non-touch screen lasted 12 hours and 37 minutes on the Laptop Battery Test, which involves continuous surfing over Wi-Fi.</p> </blockquote> <h2>ASUS Zenbook Pro: Long battery life, High performance, Bigger cost</h2> <p>лв 2,987.85 at <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/bg/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZX6UX2724" rel="nofollow noreferrer">newegg</a>, MSRP лв 3,586.17 <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfu2A.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfu2A.jpg" alt="ASUS Zenbook Pro UX550VE-DB71T"></a></p> <p>This laptop features a much more powerful <strong>i7-7700HQ Quad Core</strong>. It also features a <strong>PCIE NVMe 512 GB SSD</strong>. If you don't know PCIE ssd's are dramatically faster than traditional ssd's (up to speeds of 1+ gb/s read/writes) which will make heavy applications visual studio load much faster. It also comes with a thunderous <strong>NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB</strong> which will make any 3D/game programming a breeze. It also features a generous <strong>16gb of DDR4</strong> ram which have feature slightly faster RAM timings that allow for faster application load in (iex. visual studio).</p> <p>In addition this laptop features an <strong>8-cell Li-ion battery</strong>, which will help with battery life. According to <a href="https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/asus-zenbook-pro-ux550ve" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this review</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Asus' notebook endured for 7 hours and 38 minutes on the Laptop Mag Battery Test, which involves browsing the web continuously over Wi-Fi.</p> </blockquote> <h2>MSI GL62M: Best performance, Lowest cost</h2> <p>лв 1,580.99 at <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/bg/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834154623" rel="nofollow noreferrer">newegg</a>, MSRP лв 2,054.99 <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IpXFj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IpXFj.jpg" alt="MSI GL62M"></a></p> <p>This laptop is the <strong>cheapest laptop</strong> among the 3, and has <strong>arguably the best components for the best value</strong>. It features a high powered <strong>Intel Core i7-7700HQ Quad Core</strong>, and additional discrete graphics card -<strong>GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB GDDR5</strong>, <strong>512 GB M.2 SATA SSD</strong> (a little bit slower than PCI-E), as well as <strong>16 GB of DDR4 RAM</strong>.</p> <p>As an additional note, this <strong>laptop will have the best keyboard among the 3 choices</strong>, as it is a gaming laptop, featuring <strong>MSI's signature anti-ghosting steel series keyboard</strong>. I personally own the GS-60 Ghost, and can say the keyboard is very good for a non mechanical keyboard.</p> <p>In terms of battery life the MSI is going to fall back, but in exchange you'll be packing a punch in performance and price.</p> <p>According to <a href="https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/msi-gl62m-7rex" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this review</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The laptop lasted only 3 hours and 33 minutes on our battery test, which consists of continuous web surfing over Wi-Fi at 150 nits of brightness.</p> </blockquote> <hr> <p>I highly recommend option 3, but if you absolutely demand a 4/5 hour battery life, you might as well buy a portable battery for laptops <a href="https://www.lifewire.com/best-portable-laptop-battery-4050506" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like one of these</a>, and it will still be cheaper than the 2 options.</p> <hr> <h2>Special Considerations regarding Mac based application development (Swift)</h2> <p>You've probably noticed that I didn't recommend any Macs. This is because they are not as "friendly" to application development as other operating systems, and tend to be overpriced if you buy them specifically for the hardware that exists in them. I personally program using the Xamarin technology to create universal, cross-platform mobile apps, but this requires me to have a mac available to even build and test the iOS version of my universal app. In order to get around this I use a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_machine" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Virtual Machine</a> emulator, specifically <a href="https://my.vmware.com/web/vmware/free#desktop_end_user_computing/vmware_workstation_player/12_0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">VM Player</a> with a <em>special patch</em> which allows me to run a mac virtual machine on windows. <a href="https://techsviewer.com/install-macos-high-sierra-vmware-windows/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This site</a> offers a guide on how to do this.</p>

9001

2018-03-25T14:15:22.860

|laptop|development|

<p>I am studying software development and I need a laptop which can survive around 4 / 5 hours or more of coding(using internet,stackoverflow,codeblocks/visual studio etc).I also consider learning the Swift language(I heard that it is hard to do without a mac) but I am not 100% sure about it.I have around 1300-1600 dollars(1000-1250 euros).So I will be glad to hear your recommendations on what should I look for. :)</p>

Advice on laptop for software development around 1300$

<p>The telling part is in the last part of that little chart. Note that it displays an 8+4+4+4 dual-channel configuration, but in reality, you're only getting 16GB of the 20GB you install in that configuration. </p> <p>That's normally a big sign that the 16GB RAM limitation is something tied to the motherboard chipset, and you're not going to get around it. In this case, I think it's just really lousy documentation on the part of HP. Be ready for contradiction. If you go to the <a href="https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773" rel="nofollow noreferrer">actual HP support site, it says this motherboard's chipset can handle up to 32GB DDR3.</a> That's a 4x 8GB. Another hint that the documentation you have is nuts is the fact that a configuration that reads 8+4+4+4 as dual channel is nonsensical. Memory won't run in dual channel mode unless the RAM capacitance is matched. </p>

9002

2018-03-25T16:21:38.513

|memory|compatibility|

<p>I'm thinking about getting a cheap PC I can pack with lots of RAM and play with Hyper-V a little more at home rather than bogging down my main <strong>Windows</strong> PC, and since my other <strong>Windows</strong> PC is Home Edition. I saw a cheap priced <strong>HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor</strong> with a 16 GB configuration and <strong>Windows 10 Pro</strong> on <strong>Amazon</strong> that looks sufficient. </p> <p>According to the <a href="https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773#AbT6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Compaq Pro 6300 Small Form Factor PC Specifications</a> the <strong>HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor</strong> PC contains 4 slots and shows an example in the chart of a 16 GB configuration but also states "<em>Not all memory configurations possible are represented below</em>".</p> <blockquote> <h2><a href="https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03387773#AbT6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Memory specifications</a></h2> <p><em>Slot 1 is black and must always be populated. Not all memory configurations possible are represented below:</em></p> <p><strong>Memory configurations</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrgUy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrgUy.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> </blockquote> <h2>Question</h2> <p>Can anyone confirm the other non-listed memory configurations that have worked with success with the <strong>HP 6300 Pro Small Form Factor</strong> running <strong>Windows 10 Pro</strong>?</p> <ul> <li>I'm not looking for a full list of all configurations not listed in the chart since I'm more interested in configurations it'll support with over 16 GB of RAM. For example is it possible pack in two 8 GB or three or even four and what would not work slot wise, or what is working for someone else with this same specific make and model hardware and their greater than 16 GB configuration and any special UEFI/BIOS settings to make such a setup possible. </li> </ul>

Maximization of a Ram Hardware Configuration

<h2>Summary</h2> <p>When it comes to considering processors directly, my preferred method of doing so is evaluating their online <a href="http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-N4200-vs-Intel-N3710" rel="nofollow noreferrer">benchmarks</a>. This allows you to rank processors relative to each other quite easily without actually having them on hand.</p> <p><strong>In general, it looks like the N4200 is going to be the better choice as Intel's MSRP appraisal of both processors is the same at exactly $161.00</strong></p> <h2>Straight line performance</h2> <p>Some of the immediate differences between the N4200 (Released Jan 2016) and N3710 (Released July 2016) is that the N4200:</p> <ul> <li><strong>Real world performance is about 50% better</strong> than the N3710 according to it's PassMark score.</li> <li>Ultimately <strong>outperforms the N3710 in all common benchmarking software</strong>.</li> </ul> <h2>Power Consumption</h2> <p>In terms of power consumption, each processor is estimated to cost about 1.25$/year, so there is <strong>no effective difference in power consumption</strong>, However; the N4200 will output about <strong>12.8% more performance per watt</strong> making it more efficient than the N3710 variant.</p> <h2>Memory Support</h2> <p>According to the official Intel spec sheets of the respective processors <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/95592/Intel-Pentium-Processor-N4200-2M-Cache-up-to-2_5-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[N4200 here]</a>, <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/91830/Intel-Pentium-Processor-N3710-2M-Cache-up-to-2_56-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[N3710 here]</a>:</p> <p>It appears that the N4200 is equipped to handle DDR3L/LPDDR3 up to 1866 MT/s, and LPDDR4 up to 2400 MT/s, while the N3710 only supports DDR3L-1600. This means that the newer <strong>N4200 processors will be able to handle newer RAM types with faster timings</strong>. This will effect the effective application load in speed.</p> <p>Interestingly enough, however; the <strong>N3710 supports twice the Maximum memory bandwidth.</strong></p> <h2>Special Considerations</h2> <p>CPUBoss reports that <strong>the N3710 is capable of being pushed further via Overclocking than the N4200 by nearly (45.5% by air, difference is nominal if you are using water cooling (7%))</strong>. This is only applicable if your motherboard supports overclocking, or whether there are any linux based programs that you can control your processor speed from.</p>

9006

2018-03-26T09:49:43.093

|laptop|processor|linux|

<p>I am about to buy a laptop, nothing too powerful, but good enough to program on it. Linux will be the system and i will do android, c/c++ ,python... But no advanced graphics. I found few laptops and main difference between them is processor. Some have Intel Mobile Pentium N3710 and some Intel Mobile Pentium N4200. Could someone give any recommendations on which processor to go for, considering above requirements.</p>

Intel Mobile Pentium N3710 vs N4200 processor for laptop

<p>I've not run this <em>specific</em> model before but I've had good experiences with Xiaomi - and they have an android one model this year. Even if you don't go with a xiaomi - android one phones are likely to be what you're looking for. They're essentially "Google" phones like the nexus and pixel series, but designed to be cheaper and stripped down, with a mostly stock google experience and a fairly typical 3 year upgrade cycle. </p> <p>The cons here? The 1a's an <em><a href="https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2018/03/xiaomi-mi-a1-review-a-220-iphone-clone-with-stock-android-sign-us-up/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">iphone clone</a></em> design wise, with a stock android experience. It probably looks more expensive than it is. Its got an aluminum body, a fingerprint scanner and more or less most of the features you'd find in a older flagship phone. It even does USB C. No removable battery but that's a pretty uncommon feature</p> <p>The pros? Xiomi's hardware is pretty good - I've got a xiomi 1s that's still running years on, and since its android one, you get a mostly stock android experience <em>optimised</em> for an older phone. And 5.5 inches is pretty much the 'sweet spot' for a modern phone, and its big enough for most things. </p>

9008

2018-03-26T21:30:12.787

|android|smartphones|

<p>I'm looking for a smartphone for an elderly person who is familiar with PCs (and is a long-time Linux user), but has not used a mobile phone before. They tried a basic phone¹ and found the screen too small and the interface too unwieldy.</p> <p>The anticipated use of the phone is primarily as a telephone, perhaps to send and receive SMS, to listen to the radio, and some web browsing. Photography and games are not relevant. Other uses may be discovered when they have the device.</p> <p>Budget is not a primary concern, but a low-end phone is preferred so that it says “not worth stealing”, not “mug me”. The phone will be bought and used in France.</p> <p>Must haves:</p> <ul> <li>As light as possible. This is more important than battery life.</li> <li>Not too damage-prone, as long as it doesn't increase the weight.</li> <li>FM radio.</li> <li>Android, without fancy OEM software. The phone is likely going to run whatever OS the manufacturer has put on it, not some mod (I don't want to have to do tech support on non-official system components). It must be sold with, or at least upgradable to, at least Nougat 7.0.</li> </ul> <p>Preferences:</p> <ul> <li>Size is a bit of an unknown because it's difficult to relate until you have the object in hand. But it needs to be easy to hold in one hand and to fit in a reasonable-sized pocket, so smaller is better (up to a point where the screen is too small).</li> <li>A fingerprint reader to simplify logging in while keeping some security would be a plus.</li> <li>A removable battery is strongly preferred.</li> <li>The possibility of using a stylus would be appreciated.</li> <li>Reasonable perspectives for Android upgrades. The user does not want to change their phone all the time.</li> <li>While I think the device will run the original OS, the possibility of improving privacy guards and ad blocking may be a reason to root the device.</li> </ul> <p>¹ _{I.e. a phone that's only a phone, usually with a keyboards with digits and a few function keys, without the ability to install applications. You can see some basic phones in <a href="https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/mobile-phone/best-basic-phones-of-2018-3641218/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/feature/mobile-phone/best-basic-phones-of-2018-3641218/</a> . Most flip phones are basic phones.} </p>

Easy-to-use Android phone

<p>Going off the fact that you claimed about 90% RAM usage during your typical use scenario, it is likely that your RAM is paging to SSD and degrading performance.</p> <p>Most of your specs are fine, so it is unlikely those are going to be bottlenecks. As an additional note windows typically only uses less than 4 gb, and chrome typically doesn't use more than 1gb unless you have a lot of extensions. That would leave 3 gb for Unreal Engine, though I am surprised that Unreal is using that much RAM. Unfortunately I don't use Unreal engine a lot so I don't know what the typical memory usage is. You might want to look into your applications and see if any are using inordinate amounts of memory.</p> <p>As for the recommendation, I was unable to find much information on your MOBO and the DELL support site wasn't very helpful. The <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/80817/Intel-Core-i5-4460-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_40-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spec sheet</a> for your cpu was more useful: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9I7TC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9I7TC.png" alt="Intel i5-4460 memory cheat sheet"></a></p> <p>I've recommended 16 gb of RAM as I think that this will be more than enough to ensure that your computer isn't paging to hard drive. To put this in perspective, I have 16 gb on a laptop and only come close to filling that up running multiple Virtual Machines in parallel alongside Visual Studio + Re-sharper.</p> <hr> <p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&amp;IsNodeId=1&amp;N=100007611%20600551103%20601190327%20600000261%20600078206%20600083963%20600006079%20600006072" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This newegg query</a> contains a huge list of RAM upgrades you could purchase for your computer sorted by price. I've made a specific recommendation below:</p> <h2>Specific recommendation: G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB</h2> <p>$125.99 at <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231606" rel="nofollow noreferrer">newegg</a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5Iee.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5Iee.jpg" alt="G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GAR"></a></p> <p>I've chosen RAM rated at 1600 as your core specifies this is the fastest that it can support. The raised speed will allow you to load in applications slightly faster than if was rated at 1333. It also has the lowest CAS latency that I could find at 9 (specifically: 9-9-9-24). If you wanted to save money while maximizing for performance trade off, you could go for RAM with higher CAS latency, but it will increase the delay for your RAM.</p> <blockquote> <p>Specifically: Cas Latency(ns)/frequency(mhz) * 1000 = response time(ns)</p> </blockquote> <p>Therefore, if you bought a 1600 speed RAM with a CAS Latency of 11, it would have a delay of 6.875 ns which would be a 22.222% increase in delay from equivalent RAM rated at CAS Latency 9.</p> <p>It's been a while since I've looked into the RAM market, but I remember G.SKILL, and Corsair being heavily praised in the self-building PC community around the time the 4k series intel processors were out. The Nemix and Team Group RAM seemed to be a little cheaper but user reviews seemed volatile. I haven't had much experience with these brands so I don't know how reliable their RAM is. I decided to recommend the cheapest "enthusiast" brand that I could recognize, but feel free to buy a cheaper RAM even if it isn't G.SKILL or Corsair.</p>

9034

2018-03-30T18:33:07.167

|performance|game-development|

<p>I'm looking for a little advice on how best to improve the performance of my machine. </p> <p>I'm using the machine for development of a game using the Unreal UE4 engine but I see some performance issues and lagging particularly when using the Unreal engine alongside other processes like Google Chrome.</p> <p>Ideally I'd like there to be a magic answer but I understand that I may be required to purchase some hardware upgrades to really see a performance increase. I'm guessing that a RAM upgrade to 16GB might not be enough but I'm really not sure. </p> <p>Would the processor be a bottleneck here or is the RAM likely to be more of an issue? If I upgrade the processor am I likely to need to buy a new case and motherboard?</p> <p>Either way, I'd like to keep the costs down as much as possible.</p> <p>My computer is a DELL Vostro 3900 but I've made some upgrades from the stock model.</p> <p>I have:<br><br> Intel i5-4460 Quad Core running at 3.2Ghz. DELL GGDJT Motherboard.(I haven't been able to find any useful documentation on this motherboard).<br> Windows 10 Pro<br> 2x4GB DDR3 Ram for a total of 8GB (<em>added after purchase</em>).<br> 1x3GB Geforce GTX 1060 Graphics card (<em>added after purchase</em>).<br> 1x 180GB Intel SSD with the OS and Unreal engine/project files installed (<em>added after purchase</em>).<br> 1x 500GB Seagate SATA drive for storage.<br> 1x 500w power supply(<em>added after purchase</em>).<br></p> <p>Any advice is gratefully received.</p>

Dell Vostro 3900 upgrade to improve performance when using Unreal Engine 4

<p>You might be able to fit a low-profile nVidia GTX 1050 or 1050Ti in there, and that card would allow <em>some</em> modern gaming, but that is definitely not a gaming PC. The GT710 is an old business-class video card that is often used to allow multiple monitors on the same workstation, but is as bad as some on-die processor video adapters when it comes to processing. </p> <p>I looked at the spec sheet on that machine; it's designed to be a multimedia micro tower. Even the top end configuration for it only has a GT730 video card, and thats not much better than the 710. It <em>does</em> have an available 90w power supply upgrade, but as you discovered, even the most basic gaming setup requires more than that. </p> <p>You've also got a problem with that Pentium or <em>hurk</em> Celeron processor. Those are flat-out too weak for games. If it's an Intel processor and it doesn't say "i3", "i5", "i7", or "i9" at the beginning of its name, it's just their low-power junk they sell for cheap, and most games won't run on them at all. </p> <p>Unfortunately, all I have is bad news. That computer won't fit your kid's needs. You discovered that "cheap computer" and "gaming computer" are mutually exclusive. I tried to find this machine for sale in the USA, but it looks like it would run around $200 if it were available here. A light gaming computer in that price range won't happen, unless you can pick it up used. </p>

9038

2018-03-31T23:33:06.747

|graphics-cards|gaming|thin-mini-itx|

<p>I have purchased a ASUS K20CE style pc for my son, which has turned out not to have enough "omph" for playing even modest modern 3D games.</p> <p>I went out and got a GeForce GT710 card for the PC (which matched one of the options that I could have ordered the PC with to begin with) but was faced with the problem, that the card did not fit the cabinet (times have changed much since I built my last PC it turns out!)</p> <p>I guess the motherboard is a mini ITX one. It has a single PCI Express slot, and the cabinet is slim. I have my eyes on some alternative GPUs, that may fit the machine, but I hesitate to order as I realise the system has an external power adapter of at most 90W. Most GPU cards advertise 300-400W power requirements, so I am starting to wonder if it will work at all.</p> <p>Does anybody have experience with such an upgrade or advice? The goal is not to make a monster gaming PC, but just a modest budget one.</p>

Seeking advice for adding GPU to mini PC

<p>It may be a touch more efficient due to the water convection of the heat works but water cooling still relies on fans to cool a radiator that cools the water. The thermal capacity of a liquid cooling solution, however, is a bit higher than just that of a heatpipe and a fan.</p> <p>You should see a marked improvement of both thermal capacity and overclocking potential of the machine with a water cooling solution but I would suggest that if this is new to you that you go for a <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CW-9060026-WW-Extreme-Performance-Liquid/dp/B019955W7C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">self contained solution like this</a>.</p> <p>The radiator is quite large though, so you may prefer one of it's smaller versions depending on the size of your case.</p>

9066

2018-04-07T22:20:40.753

|cooling|

<p>I want to build a silent PC, high end, mainly for playing games and working. With <code>working</code> I mean Visual Studio 2017, about 3 virtual machines and my average 20+ Chrome tabs running at once.</p> <p>I assume liquid cooling is much more silent for 2 reasons:</p> <ul> <li>The information I got around. Everyone seems to conclude water cooling is more efficient and much more silent. My current system.</li> <li>Case-mounted fans are too loud, even when I set the level to minimum (it features 3 levels).</li> </ul> <p>The catch is I've never mounted a liquid cooling system before, so aside from theory I have nothing to work with. I'll walk you through my soon-to-be rig components, just in case there are any restrictions:</p> <ul> <li>GPU: <strong>Asus ROG Strix Geforce GTX 1070</strong>. No real choice here, because it's my current one.</li> <li>CPU: <strong>i7 8700K</strong>. Mainly chosen over Ryzen 2700x because this one has spent some time out there, and it reportedly performs well.</li> <li>Motherboard: <strong>Asus ROG Maximus X Hero Wifi AC</strong>. For various reasons: It's a very reliable brand, has a lot of features I can use, the documentation is pretty easy to navigate...</li> </ul> <p>I don't know if any other components might be important towards the current matter (which is liquid cooling), please let me know if there's any problem with that.</p> <p>So all in all, what I want to know is what cooling kit or components should I look for in order to achieve a good result according to what I'm looking for, which is a righ that doesn't make much noise (I also want lower temperatures when running OC components, because I'm going to OC both the CPU and RAM at least, plus the GPU if my model even allow for it, but that's out of this question).</p> <p>Edit 2018-04-08: Added an EK <a href="https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/shared/oW5aca0e4c5da1d" rel="nofollow noreferrer">custom loop</a>, which I deem overexpensive for this purpose. I also changed my motherboard option to <a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-MAXIMUS-X-HERO-WI-FI-AC/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus ROG Maximus X Hero Wifi AC</a>. <strong>I have no idea</strong> about liquid cooling, if someone could enlighten me a bit about parts I may not need, or could change to lean the final price to a lower number, that would be awesome.</p>

ASUS 1070 Strix - Liquid cooling?

<p>I recommend the Olimex OLinuXino A20 - it is OSHWA certified, and works with regular Debian since years.</p> <p>See <a href="https://box.redpill.dk/hardware.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> my detailed recommendations for exactly which components to buy.</p> <p>For alternatives in that same price range, see <a href="https://wiki.debian.org/CheapServerBoxHardware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://wiki.debian.org/CheapServerBoxHardware</a></p>

9067

2018-04-08T08:48:39.390

|linux|web-server|sbc|

<p>I’m looking for an <strong>SBC (single board computer)</strong> that can run Debian to use as a <strong>webserver</strong>.</p> <p>Maximum budget is <strong>€100 (120 $ / 85 £)</strong></p> <h2>Requirements:</h2> <ul> <li>Gigabit ethernet (it’s going to be a webserver)</li> <li>At least 1 USB port (2.0+)</li> <li>Can boot via USB</li> <li>Can run Debian out of the box (‘native’ Debian, can be an official port like Debian ARM64, but not ports like Armbian or Raspbian)</li> </ul> <h2>Non-necessities:</h2> <ul> <li>At least 1 video out port: (mini) HDMI, (mini) DP, DVI or VGA to access the terminal in case something goes wrong in the network and I can’t use SSH to get in)</li> <li>Capable of being powered through USB (micro) socket</li> <li>Ethernet not going over USB controller</li> </ul>

SBC for webserver, compatible with Debian

<p>We'd need more specific information about your rig for more precise advice, particularly given the age.</p> <p>Options (in order of estimated cost):</p> <p>1) Investigate if your current motherboard supports any fan control capability (eg. PWM) - you'll need to get into your BIOS, but it sounds like you have already tried this and found nothing that looks like this.</p> <p>2) Try a software solution like Speedfan. <em>If</em> the hardware supports it, you can manually control the speed of your fans.</p> <p>3) Buy a resistor ; you can get a short wire that you plug your existing fan into, and then the other end into your motherboard. A reduction in voltage means a reduction in fan speed and thus a reduction in noise. It will also mean a rise in temperature but 30C is very low for a CPU so you have plenty of headroom. <a href="http://www.blackfiveservices.co.uk/fanspeed.shtml" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fan resistor calculator</a>.</p> <p>4) Buy a new CPU heat-sink &amp; fan (HSF) that is quieter and/or can be manually controlled. Getting one to fit Socket A/462 might be the challenge, and this will be proportionally very expensive. Decent modern HSFs would cost as little as £20/$20/20€.... but can you find one to fit.</p> <p>5) Soundproof your case. Expensive, and why would you go to all the trouble/expense for such an old rig.</p> <p>Could you use your Noctua fan? Yes of course, but you could. The difficulty would be getting it mounted securely in a position to maximise the airflow. If your 60mm fan is directly over the middle of the heat-sink, you'll probably find your 120mm fan would be offset to the side so the larger hub does not block airflow. You could combine this with #3 to reduce the speed/noise further. </p> <p>Caveat: you would need to monitor temps to confirm that your final configuration is cooling the CPU sufficiently. </p> <p>As a general rule, the warmer the temp, the shorter the CPU lifespan. So your noise reduction might accelerate this CPU's demise! On the other hand, it's lasted this long, and who's to say that you haven't got lucky with a very good chip. The cut out temp for that chip is likely to be in the 90C area, so Id suggest you don't let it get above 60-70C for too long.</p> <p>Hope this helps.</p>

9079

2018-04-09T21:55:53.717

|processor|motherboard|fan-controller|

<p>I have an old PC Desktop running Linux lubuntu 17.10.</p> <p>It works well, but the noise of the CPU FAN is too high, and I would like to reduce that to almost nothing if possible! </p> <p>The hardware is :</p> <ul> <li>CPU: AMD ATHLON XP 1900+</li> <li>CPU Fan Cooler: Cooler Master (Model:BS601512H) CM12V</li> <li>MotherBoard: <a href="http://www.asrock.com/mb/sis/k7s41gx/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASRock K7S41GX</a></li> <li>GPU: MSI Nvidia GeForce4 Ti 4200</li> <li>PSU: Power Supply ATX12V Pentium IV &amp; PFC LC6550</li> <li>HDD: Disco SEAGATE Barracuda ATA IV</li> <li>RAM: 1,5Gb of RAM DDR333 (1024MB/166MHz &amp; 512MB/166MHz)</li> <li>DVD</li> </ul> <p>Additional info:</p> <ul> <li>The CPU Fan spins at ±4500 RPM.</li> <li>The CPU temperature is around ±30°.</li> <li>I can't (or don't know how to) change the CPU Fan RPM in the Bios Setup.</li> </ul> <p>Considering this,</p> <ol> <li>What do I need to change to reduce the noise?</li> <li>What is the minimum RPM for this CPU without causing any damage?</li> <li>Can I Put a 120mm Fan, where before was a 60mm Fan, with a little DIY conversion?</li> <li>Does a 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200 could be used?</li> </ol> <p>Or, any other advice to reduce the noise without damaging the system?</p> <p>Thanks for the help!</p>

Reduce CPU Fan Noise on old AMD Athlon XP 1900+

<p>I personally use the <a href="http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002895" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thermaltake WP200</a>. That is, the W200 core chassis atop the P200 extension chassis. </p> <p>It follows the "if it's interior, it's metal" approach, right down to the removable motherboard tray on one side. It currently houses TWO computers and came with power and USB headers for both; my i7 2600k on one side and my i7 8700k on the other, both overclocked and both with the massive Noctua D15-class heat sink and fans mounted on them without affecting case clearance. Both use an EATX motherboard. The case comes with no fans (nor should you typically trust a fan that comes with a case), but instead has mounting racks for multiple configurations. Right now, the whole machine is air-cooled. I have about 30 case fans running either in the case mounted modules, face panel, or on the actual heat sinks. </p> <p>The P200 section serves mostly as where I manage my power connections and cables, as it contains induction fans and two 800w power supplies to supplement the 1200w one in the W200 area (and if I didn't use the EATX on the side with the removable mobo tray, I could have fit another 1200W there as well). </p> <p>The drive racks are plastic, but it's a durable plastic, and they're made of plastic to keep them light. This is because they can mount more than one way. While the racks can fit in metal modules for the face of the machine, I reserved that for optical drives, a hot-swap bay, and headers. Instead, I use the plastic racks to "hang" the drives into clip-lock bays that are on one side of the metal divider on the inside of the case, which makes swapping them easy if I want. They use plastic locks instead of screws to hold the drives, which makes for quieter HDDs and easier replacement. </p> <p>Obviously, it comes with modular connections that assist with cable management, and can fit multiple radiators for elite watercoolers. The case can accept 120mm and 140mm fans in the same fan bays and racks. The racks for the fans or radiators all hold with steel thumb screws so they are steady and I don't have to just depend on the optional plastic locks that can hold them into place (this case allows you to be lazy, I guess, but you don't have to be). </p> <p>Fan induction points can be covered with a magnetically-fixed metal screen that comes with the unit (one for each potential point). This keeps dust out and extends fan life, and makes cleaning your fan filters as simple as just a quick wipe over the trash can.</p> <p>You can use rubber feet, but this thing is HEAVY when it's fully assembled and loaded with tech. We're talking 85-125 lbs depending on what you put in it. This upgrades your computer to furniture. I highly recommend using the castors it comes with instead of the feet, so you can just roll it around to move it. Otherwise, get a dolly with some straps.</p> <p>The only complaints I have are its loaded weight and the way the external panels fit. They connect via plastic knobs (thick and durable) that are grabbed by plastic tension brackets in the external panel (replaceable but sort of flimsy). The panels never fall off, but the top lid is currently missing one of its tension brackets, which makes correctly aligning the top and locking it in place a little annoying.</p> <p>Edit: Also, the panels can be detached for painting so you can safely customize yourself if you want without harming the tech. The Thermaltake "TT" logo is on the face panels, but is otherwise kept minimal. </p>

9083

2018-04-11T14:02:44.570

|gaming|desktop|case|

<p>The few times I've encountered server gear, the build quality simply amazes me. It's just remarkably well-built, with incredibly solid metal construction throughout. The quality of the front of the chassis and branding, in particular, lend a sense of gravitas I simply don't get from any consumer desktop chassis I've seen. High-end workstations from major PC vendors are often built to a similar level of quality as well.</p> <p>I realize that with the profit margins typical of high-end IT equipment, vendors can afford to spare no expense on the physical construction of their products, and that it's hard to achieve the same in the price-sensitive consumer market. Nonetheless, are there any modern (not discontinued) consumer- or gamer-oriented desktop chassis built to "big iron" server standards?</p> <p>I'm looking for high-quality, rigid metal construction in all key areas, with judicious use of plastics only where it does not significantly reduce build quality. There should not be thin, low-quality material that is easily bent, dented, or otherwise damaged. This extends to key interior parts of the case, such as the drive cages. A high level of durability is also expected of any supplied accessories such as pre-installed fans. Branding and design motifs should be physically substantial, extending beyond mere printing on the chassis.</p> <p>Ideally, the case should be large enough to accomodate an EATX motherboard. In any case, however, it must be able to accept a standard ATX board. It should also be a traditional PC tower—I'm looking for "big iron" build quality, but not the rackmount form factor.</p> <p>Budget is unlimited, but the solution should be a commercially-available product, not a custom, one-off design. Size and weight are also of no concern, as long as it isn't so large or heavy that it can't be moved into most homes.</p>

Consumer/gaming-oriented case with high-end "big iron" server-level build quality

<blockquote> <p>1) if it's a DDR4 system, would it support DDR3 as well?</p> </blockquote> <p>Generally speaking, NO. What's the manual say? </p> <blockquote> <p>2) should I buy an 8GB DDR4 (4+8 =12GB) stick or just get 2 8GB DDR (16GB) sticks for the same price ?</p> </blockquote> <p>What's the documentation say about it? If 16 GB is supported, it is what I would do, provided it is DDR4. Otherwise just go with adding the 8 GB stick.</p> <blockquote> <p>3) how would going for a DDR3 impact performance and also battery life?</p> </blockquote> <p>It probably won't work, so performance will be severely impacted.</p>

9088

2018-04-13T04:46:12.263

|laptop|memory|

<p>I am planning to order a Lenovo ThinkPad E570. It comes with a 4GB DDR4 SODIMM stick. I want to throw in more RAM. So</p> <p>1) if it's a DDR4 system, would it support DDR3 as well?</p> <p>2) should I buy an 8GB DDR4 (4+8 =12GB) stick or just get 2 8GB DDR (16GB) sticks for the same price ?</p> <p>3) how would going for a DDR3 impact performance and also battery life? </p>

Laptop memory upgrade confusion

<p>Printer companies specifically avoid doing this because their margin only comes from ink sales. They usually lose money on the printer itself. This is true of most accessory-based consumer electronics; Microsoft loses money on every X-Box line of product sold, and makes a killing on licensing developers to make its games and online marketplace surcharges. When I worked retail, a Lexmark rep once revealed to me that we were buying cartridges for $20 that we were selling for $45 and that Lexmark only spent $1 per cartridge to manufacture and ship them, but that they averaged a $10 loss per printer they sold, and that loss carried forward. That's why the guy at the store just shoves ink in your cart without asking, and why the printer ships with half-filled ink and calls it a "starter" half the time.</p> <p>This means you have more to deal with than just cleaning the cartridge. You need to know your cartridges a little. </p> <ol> <li>Don't do this with an HP inkjet. They integrate the printhead onto the cartridge, which is sort of nice, but they also sometimes rig them to detect inks of a different density and refuse to print. I don't have a link for that one, but I've seen it happen. If the ink is thinner, it may fail to detect, but the custom head may just vomit ink all over the page because it's expecting a certain density. Even just normal ink refills with them takes a little care, and ink quality matters. </li> <li>Lexmark will work, but not all of their cartridges are refillable. </li> <li>Single-color cartridge printers (i.e. C, M, Y, K are in their own containers) are ideal. Brother, some Canon, Xerox, and Epson all do this. They warn that using your own ink voids your warranty, but the cartridge will accept the ink. Also, many of the cartridges are clear, so you can visibly see the fill level, and you don't have to worry about screwing up filling a tri-color cartridge. </li> </ol> <p>Knowing the above, I'd advise starting with Item 3 on the list; get a printer that uses single-tone, individual carts. Got one? Great. Clear cartridge? Even better. Now to prep the cartridge. </p> <p>You don't want to soak the cartridge in bleach or vinegar. Bleach is a bad idea anyway as it leaves a residue which may affect the ink. Vinegar will break the dried ink up and flush it out, but it's likely to damage the rubber seals on the cartridge or expand the rubber so that it doesn't fit right anymore. Always start with hot water and just observe the cartridge contents to see if it flushes (clear cartridge benefit, of course). If you get all of the ink out, great. If you have splatted hunks of dried ink inside, then vinegar might be your only (safe) solution, but don't let it stand for long, or you can damage the cartridge as mentioned above. </p> <p>Allow to dry before refilling with your ink. Keep in mind that a viscous ink and a watery ink aren't the same thing; if your printer normally dumps thin ink and you put in conductive ink, it may give you some spotty or splotchy results. I'd start small, here. </p>

9091

2018-04-13T16:19:49.953

|printer|home-electronics|

<p>I have some conductive ink that I want to use to print circuits. The current method involves painting the ink, but I would like a more precise method.</p> <p>I am aware of YouTube videos and such explaining how to refill an ink cartridge for an inkjet printer myself, but I would rather not use a cartridge that was previously filled with regular ink in order to avoid contamination.</p> <p>Are there any printers that cater to this niche market of people wanting to use odd inks?</p>

Are there any printer companies that sell empty ink cartridges that I can fill myself?

<p>The real problem is that the difference between an external hard drive and an external hard drive enclosure is whether or not there's a drive in it. Most of the manufacturers sell the enclosures separately, and those enclosures have little-to-no shock absorption when dropped. This is because an HDD is intended to be a stationary form of media. SSD have no moving parts, so rather than perfect the enclosures, the preference is to use SSD. It's also common to use BD-ROM, if it's read-only media, because they have a decent lifespan. </p> <p>Also, remember that the average hard disk only lasts <a href="https://blog.storagecraft.com/data-storage-lifespan/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">three to five years in perfect conditions.</a>. This is part of why datacenters are all dropping the HDD in favor of the SSD.</p> <p>A thing in common with all of these enclosures is that they won't fit some of your optional requests. </p> <blockquote> <p>Support multi-disk integration.</p> </blockquote> <p>I think you mean an enclosure that fits multiple drives at once. At that point, it's expected you want a NAS, so you usually just find small computer cases for this.</p> <blockquote> <p>Have the independent power supply.</p> </blockquote> <p>All of them have this.</p> <blockquote> <p>Have dust resistant design.</p> </blockquote> <p>This requires an airtight seal, effectively. That drastically increases heat, which is a drive killer. Most cases for HDDs actually have fans to dissipate heat or vent holes (pictured) to prevent trapping heat against the drive. This outlines your need for something which isn't sensitive to dust due to a lack of moving parts (i.e., an SSD). Even if it's sealed properly and cooled, the seals are rubberized or foam and wear with time.</p> <blockquote> <p>The SATA interface of the case is attached at the end of a cable, instead of fixed on the case. (to enable the flexibility of hard disk length (even if disk size is 3.5 inch, but I need to add a SAS to SATA adapter when I gain SAS HDD)).</p> </blockquote> <p>I see the problem, but integrating a cable is never a solution. SATA cables are cheap, simple cables that need replacing from time to time. SATA extension cables are readily available for power supplies with a SATA connector, for about $3 US a piece. You can get long SATA cables similarly. These plug into my SAS->SATA adapter just fine ($15 part on Amazon).</p> <blockquote> <p>The frame of the case can be easily disassembled and reassembled with a standard screwdriver for cleaning and maintenance</p> </blockquote> <p>You can't have this and a dust-tight seal, most of the time. </p> <p>I'd take a step back and look at your problem. It sounds like you need to store Terabytes at a time in a portable manner, but that data may be rewritten in full repeatedly. While you have drives now, you're looking at spending around $100 on specific, high-quality external components per drive. You're in an environment where small particles are a factor and interfere with your moving parts, and you're trying to plan around SAS drive compatibility (which means 15000 RPM Server HDD). With all of that, your expenses will build rapidly. For a bit more, you can just start using enterprise-level SSD like Amazon Web Services and similar use. For around $250, you can get an SSD @ 1TB and $400 gets an SSD @ 2TB. They generate less heat, are less heat-sensitive, have a lower TDP, have no moving parts, are completely enclosed to prevent contact from dust, and can take a drop without losing data. While an SSD ages faster if you write to the whole drive repeatedly, they still last physically about twice as long as an HDD and don't suffer from fragmentation issues. For your needs, that's a better way to spend your money. </p> <p>If you absolutely must use your HDD in a portable manner, I recommend a dock and a carrying case as two separate components. Something like <a href="https://www.eagletechusa.com/collections/ineo/products/i-nc10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> would one-shot handle your portability needs, and you can just plug in and use the drives in a dock to purpose. To fit your SAS needs, all you'll need to do is find a dock that exposes its internal SATA connection so you can connect your adapter. </p>

9094

2018-04-16T01:58:09.407

|hard-disk|case|durability|drive-enclosure|

<p>The quality of portable hard disks have been underwhelming for me, so I want to use datacenter hard disks to store my data (Some of my data are being accessed and overwritten frequently, so I need datacenter hard disks). However the protection of internal disk is not so good. To give more protection to my hard disk, I want to buy a hard disk case. What I want is something like shown in the image below:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/U26IO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/U26IO.jpg" alt="A 1.5 TB WD Green in a metal enclosure."></a></p> <p>It would be nice if it also had the following features (<strong><em>optional</em></strong>):</p> <ol> <li><p>Support multi-disk integration(for RAID).</p></li> <li><p>Have the independent power supply.</p></li> <li><p>Have fiber dust(major from cloth and carpet) resistant design.</p></li> <li><p>Have vibration(major from tower air conditioner with high performance, table-based electric fans(the enclosure is also placed on the table) and fresh air exchange system(fixed in the wall and can make the ground vibrating)) absorbing design.</p></li> <li><p>The SATA interface of the case is attached at the end of a cable, instead of fixed on the case. (to enable the flexibility of hard disk length (even if disk size is 3.5 inch, but I need to add a SAS to SATA adapter when I gain SAS HDD)).</p></li> <li><p>The frame of the case can be easily disassembled and reassembled with a standard screwdriver for cleaning and maintenance</p></li> </ol> <p>If anyone have any experience about that, please, give me some hint or guide. Thanks a lot!</p>

Hard disk case, similar to the included image

<p>Knocking through the questions: </p> <ol> <li>Storage is really up to you. M2 drives are just a really fast connection that enjoys about 4x the write speed of SATA. This means, from the perspective of a user, near instantaneous reads and writes. Beyond that, it's basically the same technology as a normal SSD, so you're talking quarter seconds versus full seconds. If you're making your storage decisions based on speed, SSD and M2 are the way to go. Same for longevity, as they last a couple of years longer than a classic mechanical HDD. If you're basing it on capacity alone, you would obviously want HDD, but you may prefer a BD-RW that can write to <a href="http://www.mdisc.com/mdisc-technology/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M-Disc</a> and a few of those discs for your long-term, read-only media like pictures of the family. The expense is higher but you'd get better storage than any of the other solutions for longevity. </li> <li>With all of that hardware, a 650w PSU will be cutting it close, especially with a 1080ti in there (we will get to that in a second). The PSU is one of the most important purchases in a PC or server build of any kind. I'd look in the 850w+ range from a company with a good reputation and support like Antec or EVGA. The CPU may be an extremely important part of a computer purchase, but without the PSU, the CPU is just a block of expensive and cold silicon. With a bad one, your whole build can die in a literal fire. Never skimp on the PSU. </li> <li>If you don't plan to game and aren't buying four of them to mine bitcoin and make gamers hate you for inflating the price even further, you don't need the 1080ti. Not only is this WAY overpowered if you are just using the machine for a server and HTPC, but it's also not financially wise right now. Video card prices are horribly inflated due to the fact GPUs are what you use to mine cryptocurrency, and it's killing the supply while the craze continues. I wouldn't bother with the GT-710, though. It's an older card. Honestly, if the most you plan to do is watch a movie as far as graphics are concerned, I would just get a 1050 or 950. That motherboard doesn't appear to have HDMI out; if it did, I'm pretty sure you wouldn't need a video card, as I think the i9 still has the on-die video capability that the other series processors have.</li> </ol> <p>Just as a personal note, if you're not primarily running this as a server, that i9 won't get put to use. Modern processors for personal use typically cap out at the next step down. The i9 and the AMD Threadripper are specifically intended for massive amounts of multitasking and multithreaded activities such as video encoding (as in, from scratch in a video editing environment) or server-grade shared processing. If you're not using this for a professional purpose like that, you will save money and even get increased performance out of an i7 or an i5 in comparison. Please note in <a href="http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i9-7980XE-vs-Intel-Core-i7-8700K/m352013vs3937" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this benchmark</a> that a new-generation i7 that costs 1/6th the price outperforms the i9 you have selected in applications that use less than 5 cores; that's 90% of the consumer software market. File server use won't change much between processors; that's not a CPU intensive activity. If you plan to host applications for your whole household or business to be clients to this as a server, however, the i9 would be more worth it. </p>

9102

2018-04-18T16:41:49.023

|graphics-cards|processor|motherboard|hard-disk|power-supply|

<p>I am looking to go big on cores and have bought the Intel i9 7980XE 18 core processor. I'm trying to find a sane list of parts that will be compatible - I haven't built a computer for about 10 years and things have changed!</p> <p>These guys have a list for the 7960X but I'm wondering if the parts are good enough to deal with the 7980XE?</p> <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0VtuTiwi-k" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0VtuTiwi-k</a></p> <p>ASUS Prime X299-Deluxe Mother Board</p> <p>Corsair Dominator Platinum 64GB (8 x 8GB)</p> <p>Seasonic Prime Titanium 1000 SSR-1000TD</p> <p>Samsung SSD 850 Pro 2TB</p> <p>Samsung SSD 850 EVO 2TB</p> <p>Samsung NVMe SSD 960 Pro M.2 1TB</p> <p>Samsung NVMe 960 Pro M.2 512GB</p> <p>Fractal Design Define R5 w/o window white case</p> <p>Fractal Design CPU Water Cooler Celsius S36</p> <p>Fractal Fans</p> <p>GTX1080ti</p> <p>Hard Drives WD 6TB Green</p> <p>So I have a few questions:</p> <p>One thing i'm wondering is about the storage. They seem to be recommending 5 hard drives. I've never heard of these nvme m.2 drives before but presumably if I only need a small amount of storage then the 512GB m.2 one will be enough for everything, no need for the 1TB m.2 or the other SSDs right?</p> <p>Will the 650 Watt version of the power supply (<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-Prime-Titanium-Modular-Supply/dp/B01HXYRJYK" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-Prime-Titanium-Modular-Supply/dp/B01HXYRJYK</a>) be enough to fuel everything?</p> <p>I don't need a mega graphics card. This isn't going to be a gaming machine and all I need is to connect an HDMI screen. Can you give me a reason to not get a really cheap graphics card like this? <a href="https://www.ebuyer.com/806221-asus-geforce-gt-710-graphics-card-gt710-sl-1gd5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ebuyer.com/806221-asus-geforce-gt-710-graphics-card-gt710-sl-1gd5</a></p>

Intel i9 7980XE Are these parts compatible?

<p>You've got a couple of problems with your spec and will need to work around them to proceed. </p> <p>First, a USB connected speaker would need its own audio adapter onboard, or drivers that interface with the audio adapter on the host machine and a board in the speaker to convert the digital signal to an analog form internally. Outside of headphones, there's not a lot of demand for that, so you may be searching for a product that simply isn't.</p> <p>Second, the output of a speaker is limited by the amount of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power" rel="nofollow noreferrer">power</a> which it can receive. The voltage available is only 5 volts, and in all forms the maximum current is less than a full amp (.5 for most, .9 for USB 3.x). Depending on the USB port, that gives you under 5 Watts to work with. <a href="https://spinditty.com/instruments-gear/Speaker-Watt" rel="nofollow noreferrer">At max volume, you're looking at 93-96 decibels,</a> but keep in mind that the above is <em>peak</em> for the USB port, and some of that power will go to converting the digital signal to analog. This means your actual results will probably be closer to 75-80db, which gets you not much louder than a conversation. <a href="https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Does_Speaker_Size_Really_Matter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Speaker size also matters</a>, and this will inhibit the max volume the speaker is physically capable of putting out there. A speaker that is under 2 inches is going to output so little sound under the power a USB port can give it that your audio will require a quiet room or your head close to it to hear it. </p> <p>Small electronics usually wire an analog speaker directly into an onboard component, and if you disassemble something like an old Tiger handheld game, you'll find that tiny sound was produced by speakers that still took up a large chunk of the case. The way headset designers make it work is through additional components you don't have available that increase the size of their solution. They also have the benefit of the speaker being so close to your ear that the overall output power is less important. USB sound cards do something similar, and you'll find that all external sound cards that produce powerful, non-headset sound use a secondary power supply plugged into the wall. </p> <p>My recommendation would be to use a Bluetooth adapter in the USB port, and use a battery-powered rechargeable portable speaker. Those you can find all day long, resolve your audio quality and power problem, and your analog audio jack will remain open. It's been awhile since I worked with a Pi so I don't know how hard it is to get a BT stack set up on one these days, but it's a wheel that already exists.</p>

9135

2018-04-26T16:15:59.607

|usb|audio|mini-pc|speakers|

<p>I need a mini speaker which looks like a flash drive and uses USB for both power and data (so it doesn’t use 3.5mm audio jack) for a Raspberry Pi project. It doesn’t have to be</p> <ul> <li>So loud</li> <li>Super high quality</li> </ul> <p>But it has to be</p> <ul> <li>Affordable</li> <li>Small, preferably like a flash drive</li> </ul> <p>Does such thing even exist? If it does, then please tell me, I have been searching since yesterday and didn’t find anything.</p>

Mini USB Powered Speaker

<p>For gaming, one of the most important items is the GPU. Your two choices have the same GPU so now we get into subtle items.</p> <p>The next item affecting overall (general) performance is memory speed! Not memory amount. 8GB is plenty but that 1st choice has memory running at 3000MHz. So pick #1. Make sure you understand how to set the BIOS settings as this is overclocked memory because if your BIOS ever needs to be reset, the default will not be 3000 MHz.</p> <p>Pick #1.</p>

9147

2018-04-29T11:05:48.470

|graphics-cards|processor|gaming|

<p>Hello guys I am going to buy a prebuilded pc soon (I know I should't and it will be way more expensive but it's nothing I have control over so please don't mention that) and I can't really chose between two computers. The specs are:</p> <p>//First PC// Intel Core I5-8400 Coffee Lake, Asrock Z370 PRO4, 8GB DDR4 3000MHz Adata XPG D10, EVGA Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB GDDR5, 1TB 3.5" Seagate Barracuda, Cost:1,499 BGN</p> <p>//Second PC// AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (3.2 GHz 16MB), ASRock A320M-DGS, NVIDIA GTX1050Ti 4GB, 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz, 1TB 7200rpm, 120 GB SSD, Cost:1,468 BGN</p> <p>These are the specs. Please give your hones opinion and also "defend" your words. I will be playing on 1080p with modern games (GTA 5, Battlefield 1, Rainbow Six Siege etc.)</p>

Help me chose between 2 computers

<p>Both of these monitors are 1920 x 1080, 60 Hz monitors. The primary difference is their physical size. The benefit of the larger monitor is that (assuming you would have each at the same distance from your eyes) you will be able to lower the display scale on the larger screen and potentially fit more in view. </p> <p>Note: there will be substantial loss in visual fidelity. The smaller monitor will give you about 50% greater <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pixel_density" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pixel density</a> than the 32" screen. The flipside is that obviously the larger monitor will be more comfortable to look at from a further distance, and for tasks that require less fine detail (such as watching non-bluray quality movies) the larger monitor will just be more pleasing to look at.</p> <p><a href="https://www.omnicalculator.com/other/pixels-per-inch" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pixel density calculator</a></p> <p>You must determine whether the increased size is a better value for you than the bump in pixel density.</p>

9161

2018-05-03T07:28:19.247

|monitors|multiple-monitors|

<p>I have a two options.</p> <ol> <li>two <a href="http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-p2417h-monitor/pd" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>dell P2417H</code></a> 23'</li> <li>one <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01IA9FXAO" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>LG 32MA68HY-P</code></a> 32' (window split available)</li> </ol> <p>I'm developing web(front and back) and usually using vim and sublime text. I'll connect to my 2017 13' MBP.</p> <p>Which one is better? Recently, I've never used monitor. So I don't imagine which one is better to me.</p>

Which monitor would be better to programming?

<p><a href="https://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/freezer-7-pro-rev-2.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arctic Cool Freezer Pro 7 r2</a></p> <p>This is my go-to budget cooler. Much quieter and a better cooler than stock HSFs.</p> <p>Also buy some decent-but-cheap thermal paste, such as <a href="http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arctic Silver 5</a> and <a href="http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/16-kryonaut-en" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut</a>. </p> <p>Combined, these should set you back 25-30 GBP/USD/Euro.</p> <p>Also perhaps look at some fan-control s/w such as <a href="http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Speedfan</a> - even when you can't improve temps, you can change how your fan responds to them. Some rigs crank up to 100% fan speed too early.</p> <p>EDIT: The <a href="https://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/freezer-11-lp.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Freezer Pro 11 LP</a> is a low profile alternative. With LP coolers, compromises are made (i.e smaller and directed into case, rather than to rear), so it will be harder for it to keep the same CPU cool in comparison. However, this one is still cheap and still quiet.</p>

9163

2018-05-03T17:37:36.967

|cooling|heat-sink|

<p>I have a desktop running an i3-2100 (LGA 1155 socket). The desktop is close to a decade old at this point and still running the stock Intel fan (<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004XJNC0O/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AWUJ1PRCOF6FM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>), which is also incidentally the only one in my mid tower apart from the one on the PSU (a Corsair VS550), so I'm looking for an aftermarket replacement that is both quieter and more effective at cooling. I'm also on a low income, so I really need it to be cheap.</p> <p>So far I've found <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IZH493Y/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bT8KSl_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=EZJ7WWTBEJQERJDQA6FN&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=cdfe7b69-8f39-5168-9e52-1c6fe2791197&amp;pf_rd_i=430499031" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>, and will probably end up going with it unless someone here informs me that it will actually perform worse than stock or there's a much better option for very close to the same price point (talking a difference of around £5).</p>

Budget cooler to replace stock Intel one

<p>After extensive searching, I found a few options. </p> <ol> <li><p><a href="http://www.eurocom.com/ec/specs(431)EUROCOM_SkyX4C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Eurocom X4C</a>. This is what I eventually ended up buying. It has up to 64 GB of RAM, two M.2 slots, the desktop 8700k, and 1080 GPU, and a selection of several different screens, including on UHD version. It's also 15.6 inches, so pretty much exactly what I was looking for. The only issues I'd mention are that it's somewhat prone to backlight bleed, and, like most computers built on a Clevo chassis, has a little give in the keyboard. </p></li> <li><p><a href="http://www.hidevolution.com/evoc-clevo-p750tm1-g-custom-built-gaming-laptop.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hidevolution Evoc P750TM-1</a>. It seems to be built on the same chassis as the previous, and has similar specifications. One advantage is that it comes with up to 2800 MHz RAM, rather than the 2400 MHz standard on the Eurocom. </p></li> </ol> <p>There are a few other options I found (e.g. from Acer) that had a 4k screen, but either had "only" 32 GB of RAM, came with only a 1070, or both. If these aren't obstacles, one of these laptops might be the better choice, since they're much more professionally put together. </p>

9168

2018-05-05T06:29:40.230

|laptop|gaming|pc|

<p>I'm looking to update my current gaming and work laptop to something featuring the latest CPUs and GPUs. Unfortunately, 120 Hz FHD screens seem to be more popular than 4K this year. </p> <p>Does anyone know of a good gaming laptop that has a six-core 8th-gen Intel CPU, a GTX 1080 (or <em>maaaaybe</em> 1070), and a 4K screen or thereabouts? </p> <p>Preferred but not necessary:</p> <ul> <li>Lots of storage space.</li> <li>M.2 raid support to transfer current hard drives. </li> <li>64+ GB RAM support. </li> <li>15.6 inches. </li> </ul>

4K gaming laptops with up-to-date hardware?

<p>Don't worry about cloud computing when it comes to graphics adapters; at this time, there's no realistic way to process high-definition graphics and then pitch them to a screen at 60 frames per second over distributed computing vs. a card on a PCI-E bus. Going off of your diagram:</p> <p><strong>Macbook Pro:</strong></p> <p>The issue you'll have here is largely tied to your code. The machine will swallow some exceptions and bury them in a log that only an Apple "Genius Bar" can access. You also get less hardware in the machine for more money, and have the usual compatibility issues with having Mac OS instead of Windows. The hardware is actually still just the same stuff you'd see in a Windows PC, but your service is handled through Apple. The only exception is the Retina display, as these are exceptionally clear and color-balanced out of the box. You may have noticed in the diagram that competitors now offer similar hardware here, as well, which closes this gap. 4GB of texture memory on the video card is just enough to push this resolution if you decide to game or do any 3D design work.</p> <p><strong>Lenovo X1:</strong></p> <p>Having first-hand experience with the display on this one, I can tell you that it's one of the best. It's not as high-res as two of the other offerings, but it's matched well with the maximum capabilities of the graphics adapter. Unfortunately, said adapter in this case is the on-die Intel adapter that comes part-in-parcel with an Intel i7-8550U. The U stands for "underpower" in Intel SKUs; that is to say, the processor is underclocked and under-spec in order to provide significantly longer battery life. The 8th-gen U-series are the first to offer quad core options, but any demanding computing is likely to be inhibited by the product. It's very light, though, so if you have access to a desktop at home with better specs, this makes a great portable work machine. </p> <p><strong>Gigabyte Aero 15x:</strong></p> <p>Gigabyte is a big name in motherboard manufacturing, similar to Asus but without the weird stigma that some business-types add to the "Republic of Gamers" sticker and price premium added to the Asus laptop shells. A gaming laptop is just another term for "most powerful laptop available" and in no way suggests the machine isn't ideal in a work environment; computer design progression is pretty linear when it comes to that sort of thing. The unit is larger and heavier, but with good reason; you get the newest, proper "H" series of i7 processor in it, with the very powerful 1070GTX from nVidia with all of its lovely texture memory. This unit is effectively a portable desktop. </p> <p>You're limited to 1080p resolution on the monitor. On the surface, that sounds, bad, but in a laptop, it's really not. Modern LED screens at high resolution use "scaling" to make icons and text larger. If you leave them at their native sizes, they become too small to read properly on an Ultra-High-Definition display when the display is only about 14-15" diagonally across (which is how screens are measured). If you're not doing graphic design or gaming at 4k+ resolution, anything more than 1080p in a laptop is usually a waste. </p> <p>The only other downside I can see here is that with all that power, battery life will be shortened. This is why you always see gaming laptops plugged in; you only get 2-3 hours out of the battery if you're doing something that really takes advantage of the machine's sheer processing capability. </p> <p>Overall, this would be my pick given the choices. </p> <p><strong>Dell XPS 15:</strong></p> <p>This machine is a good compromise, and has the highest-resolution display of the lot. You'd definitely want to scale your desktop a little in order to see clearly for daily use, but you get some nice hardware here for the price. The only real loss here vs. the Gigabyte is that the video card is less powerful and has half the texture memory, which can make for a slow gaming experience on newer games (especially if they support resolutions higher than 1080p). </p> <p>The reason it's easier on the wallet is because the processor inside is a generation behind the one in the Gigabyte, but it's still a very good processor by today's standards and I strongly doubt you'd see a difference. I'm not a huge fan of the Dell brand, but I think you'd be pleased with this unit as well. You will likely get longer battery life out of the Dell due to the lower power consumption of the graphics card. </p> <p><strong>Conclusion:</strong></p> <p>I would go with the Gigabyte if price isn't an issue and you can reach an outlet when you're doing anything particularly intense. Barring that, I'd recommend the Dell. If battery life is the most important criteria, Lenovo's will have the best. I wouldn't bother with the Apple. </p>

9177

2018-05-07T17:51:59.197

|laptop|

<p>I am planning to buy a laptop. I am not in a huge rush. So I can perfectly wait another 3/4 months with no issues. I am looking for a laptop to work mainly. I will mostly remote from it to my office desktop so a very good screen and keyboard are important so that I can perform multiple tasks simultaneously while remoted. Stuff that I care about:</p> <p>1) Processing power - I run heavily computational stuff (paralellized codes). I mainly use my desktop for those, but would always be nice to have the option of running some lighter stuff on the laptop (not very important)</p> <p>2) Graphics card - I played a lot of games more than 10 years ago. I would like to start playing again. With cloud gaming coming soon mainstream, maybe it is not that important to have a good graphics card. I would mostly play tomb raider, csgo, pubg.</p> <p>3) Durability/Longevity - This is important for me. I would like the laptop to last under normal usage.</p> <p>4) Portability - I travel once every other week and need my laptop.</p> <p>With so many tradeoffs not sure what should I buy. I compiled a list below with 5 laptops I narrowed down. The last 3 lines are my personal opinion.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8dBj.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/V8dBj.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

Suggest a laptop for productivity

<p>Technologically, these machines are effectively identical. I think the Zenbook as a slightly larger case and display area, but that's it. I'd lean to the Zenbook, both for aesthetics and the fact I'm familiar with ASUS's excellent warranty service. </p>

9186

2018-05-09T14:05:07.820

|laptop|

<p><br/>Hi! <br/>What do you think about the series lenovo thinkpad? I want to buy a new laptop. I have a good PC at the work. A laptop is an additional computer. Sometimes, I may use it at work (ASP.NET, C#). Now, I'm choosing from 2 models: <b>Lenovo Thinkpad L380 yoga</b> and <b>Asus Zenbook UX430</b>. I think, that me will have enough of their performance. <br/>I saw a zenbook and I liked it. But some people said, that Thinkpads better, but it's a L-series, but not the T or X. <br/>Lenovo - <a href="https://www.informatique.nl/185248/lenovo-thinkpad-yoga-l380-20m5-laptop.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.informatique.nl/185248/lenovo-thinkpad-yoga-l380-20m5-laptop.html</a> <br/>Asus - <a href="https://www.dateks.lv/en/cenas/portativie-datori/157603_asus_zenbook-ux430ua-gv259r-royal-blue-14-fhd-ips-core-i5-8250u-8gb-256gb-ssd-windows-10-pro" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.dateks.lv/en/cenas/portativie-datori/157603_asus_zenbook-ux430ua-gv259r-royal-blue-14-fhd-ips-core-i5-8250u-8gb-256gb-ssd-windows-10-pro</a></p> <p>Thanks for your answers!</p>

Lenovo Thinkpad L380 Yoga or Asus Zenbook UX430?

<p>Thanks for this BTW. I had a similar situation: DisplayPort ports on computers, DisplayPort switch, DisplayPort monitor. And of course, the windows jumping around every time I switched the monitor.</p> <p>I tried and tried to find a pass-through EDID adapter for DP to no avail. All I could find were headless plugs meant to fool some server's GPU that it was attached to a monitor. So I tried to duplicate your setup.</p> <p>I tried to do DP -&gt; DP-to-HDMI converter -&gt; HDMI EDID pass-through adapter -&gt; HDMI-to-DP converter -&gt; DP switch -&gt; monitor. This worked OK for 2560 x 1440, but it was still unreliable, failing about 10-20% of the time, leaving me with the same moving windows. What I finally did was this: ditch the DP switch and use an HDMI switch instead. Here's my setup:</p> <p>Computers with DP output -&gt; DP-to-HDMI converter -&gt; long HDMI cable - HDMI EDID pass-through adapter -&gt; HDMI switch -&gt; HDMI cable -&gt; monitor. I have been using it for 11 months now with solid reliability for the monitors. (Sadly, my old PS2-plug keyboard from the 90s sometimes don't switch successfully, but toggle back and forth fixes that.)</p> <p>Here are the parts I used from Amazon:</p> <p>DP to HDMI: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01M09PT7O" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PT7O/</a></p> <p>HDMI EDID: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0722NVQHX" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722NVQHX/</a></p> <p>HDMI switch: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CPLB6Y1" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CPLB6Y1/</a></p>

9200

2018-05-11T09:02:37.537

|hdmi|video|video-adapters|display-port|

<p>The relevant part of my system is straightforward - a Radeon R9 370 card with HDMI + DisplayPort output. The monitor is a 4K (3840 x 2160) Dell UltraSharp UP3216Q with HDMI 2.0 and DisplayPort connectors.</p> <p>My <strong>underlying problem</strong> is the well-known issue that when the monitor turns off, or the second monitor changes, my windows all move around. I've tried a number of fixes but none work well. Those that do, work by forcing the EDID values in Windows, which means if I do disconnect or change the monitor (as opposed to just turning it off), it still thinks there's a 3840 x 2160 attached, when it <strong>should</strong> resize to a smaller screen :) </p> <p>My <strong>solution</strong> is to move to a pass-through EDID emulator to solve this properly. The intended effect is that if I turn the monitor off but the cable is still connected, Windows will see it (due to the emulator) as still connected, and windows won't move round. But if the cable itself is unplugged, the EDID emulator will be disconnected with it and Windows will see a change of monitor or loss of monitor instead, which is ideal behaviour. That should fix it, if the EDID emulator works as expected.</p> <ul> <li><strong>Important point to note:</strong> The EDID emulator needs to be a <strong>"pass through"</strong> type - one that has male and female ports, "listens" to the monitor's own EDID, and remembers/emulates it when the monitor isn't powered on. "Headless", "dummy" or "ghost" EDID emulators are the wrong type. Those types are used to fake a monitor totally, to a computer that doesn't have any monitor at all, so that the graphics card will be fully used in calculations and remote desktop work. A headless/dummy EDID emulator only have one port, a bit like a USB stick, and won't do the job I need; it needs to be pass-through.</li> </ul> <p>The problem is that 3840 x 2160 DisplayPort pass-through EDID emulators are either extremely new on the market, or not on the market yet, and I want this now :)</p> <p>My proposed solution is to notice that my monitor has HDMI 2.0 as well as DisplayPort. That means I could feed it 3840 x 2160 on the HDMI port and use an HDMI EDID emulator instead. Unlike DisplayPort, I'm pretty sure that 3840 x 2160 <strong>HDMI</strong> pass-through EDID emulators are much easier to find on the market and cheaper too, and this would solve my Windows problem equally well.</p> <p>My adapter's HDMI output is already in use, so I would need to get a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter as well. The connection would be: </p> <ul> <li><strong><em>(R9 370 adapter Displayport) -> (DisplayPort cable) -> (DP to HDMI 2.0 adapter) -> (HDMI 2.0 pass-through EDID emulator) -> monitor</em></strong></li> </ul> <p>I'm guessing I will need an HDMI 2.0 emulator and adapter for this resolution. My questions are the obvious ones:</p> <ol> <li>Will an HDMI EDID pass-through emulator work correctly "behind" a DP to HDMI adapter?<br/><em>(I can't think of a reason it wouldn't but you know how compatibility and media changing can be. I could be wrong.)</em></li> <li>Can DP to HDMI adapters, and HDMI EDID emulators be found, that work at 3840 x 2160 @ 60 Hz? 2. Will HDMI 2.0 handle it? Are all adapters/emulators pretty much equally reliable for this kind of need, or should I go for a specific buty more expensive brand?<br/><em>(Cheaper is best if possible!)</em></li> <li>If it'll work, what would be a recommendation for the cheapest "known good" adapter and emulator I should get?</li> </ol> <p>I'm in the UK and usually buy on Amazon or EBay.</p>

DisplayPort to HDMI adapter + HDMI EDID pass-through emulator, suitable for my 2160p (4k) display?

<p>Yes, there is such a remote. There are probably quite a few of them but the one I tried is the <a href="https://www.oneforall.com/urc6440-simple-4.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">URC 6440</a>. With the help of the information in the <a href="http://www.hifi-remote.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.hifi-remote.com/</a> (especially the <a href="http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums" rel="nofollow noreferrer">forums</a>), it's really easy to program with any OS: it mounts as a USB drive, and using <a href="http://controlremote.sourceforge.net/Readme.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Remote Master</a> it's just a matter of copying a file with the configuration. Specifically, <a href="http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&amp;file_id=25227" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> the configuration file I just created for the NAD D 3020 (without using the original remote at all), and it works like a charm.</p>

9206

2018-05-12T09:45:18.640

|remote-control|

<p>I have a <a href="https://nadelectronics.com/product/d-3020-hybrid-digital-amplifier/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NAD D 3020 amplifier</a> that comes with a remote controller, but the remote is crap (and I'm not the only one to say it). Fortunately, they have a document with all the <a href="https://nadelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/D-3020-Remote-Codes.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">remote codes</a>, some of which are not even available with the supplied remote. The codes are something like:</p> <pre><code>Function Format Address Data Address Data Hex Hex Dec Dec ----------------------------------------------- Power Off NEC 877C C8 34684 200 ... </code></pre> <p>Is there a universal remote that would allow programming its keys with these codes, instead of relying on manufacturer/model references (which may be wrong, or missing, or incomplete), or on learning (which requires a working remote to learn from)?</p>

Programmable universal remote

<p>Based on the currency you selected and information I gleaned off your profile I'm assuming that you live in France and want to be able to buy a laptop that could be shipped to France.</p> <h2>Lenovo Laptop IdeaPad 320 €545,99 (MSRP: €720,99) <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/fr/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834860846&amp;cm_re=laptop-_-34-860-846-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">@ Newegg</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yKBm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yKBm.jpg" alt="Lenovo IdeaPad 320"></a></p> <p>Features an <strong>i7 7th Gen 7500U</strong>. If you're not familiar with the Intel lettering system, U signifies that the laptop is a power-saving laptop. Effectively this means that the cpu speed is reduced to achieve longer battery life and energy efficiency. While not breaking any land speed records, will be more than enough for basic coding and internet surfing. Don't expect to run heavy IDEs like Visual Studio without some lag. This option's CPU is about 59.7% slower than option 2 according to it's average cpu passmark benchmark. It also comes with <strong>1 TB HDD and a 256 GB SSD</strong>, for a total combined storage far above your requested storage amount. The laptop also features <strong>8 GB DDR4</strong>, which you shouldn't come close to filling up in any normal user case scenario. I've even managed to fit in a dedicated graphics card, the <strong>NVIDIA GeForce MX150</strong>, but that's really gratuitous at this point. You might actually be able to play some really visually intensive 3D games at really low settings.</p> <h2>Acer Laptop Aspire 5 €671,99 (MSRP: €754,99) <a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/fr/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834316266&amp;cm_re=laptop-_-34-316-266-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">@ Newegg</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYXuh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tYXuh.jpg" alt="Acer Aspire 5"></a></p> <p>The laptop cpu, first of all is an <strong>i7 8th Gen 8550 U</strong>. The laptop also features <strong>8 GB DDR4</strong>. It also comes with <strong>1 TB HDD and a 256 GB SSD</strong>. Like option 1 it has a <strong>NVIDIA GeForce MX150</strong>. You're really paying for the newer, faster CPU at this point.</p> <p>You should be able to set any laptop to dual boot if you simply install both operating systems on it. I'm assuming you're going for a Linux, Windows set up and this should be very feasible.</p>

9209

2018-05-12T17:39:12.697

|laptop|development|quiet-computing|

<p>I'm going to begin an additional 3 years of school in September, and I was thinking about buying a laptop i could use for the next 3 years or more if possible.</p> <p>My budget is <strong>600€.</strong></p> <p>The point is that I will never use it to play videogames, not even once, so I'm asking which kind of components is the most important...</p> <p>Shall I take a laptop without graphic card and with bad cpu ?</p> <p>Actually, <strong>all I want is a snappy laptop (preferably with a SSD) to program</strong>, <strong>15 inch</strong> on which I can set up a dual boot. I would prefer the laptop be be quiet.</p> <p>I won't need more than <strong>500 gigabytes storage</strong>.</p>

School laptop (non-gaming)

<h1>TL;DR: Get a <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/90741/Intel-Celeron-Processor-G3900-2M-Cache-2_80-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Celeron G3900</a> instead.</h1> <p>Although you are correct in that the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88170/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1235L-v5-8M-Cache-2_00-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xeon E3-1235L v5</a> and <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88169/Intel-Xeon-Processor-E3-1240L-v5-8M-Cache-2_10-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xeon E3-1240L v5</a> have the lowest rated TDP (both at 25W), I would recommend staying away from these processors.</p> <h2>Power consumption</h2> <p>One thing to understand straight away is that under most conditions, the actual power consumption of the process will not be equal to the rated TDP. The rated TDP only measures the <em>maximum</em> thermal output the processor is capable–that is, under full load. For example, the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i7-6700K is rated for 91W</a>, but <a href="https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/skylake-intel-core-i7-6700k-core-i5-6600k,4252-11.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">only consumes 3.4W at idle.</a> <strong>Note that this does not necessarily scale with rated TDP</strong>: the i3-3240 and i7-3770K have vastly different rated TDPs, but both consume roughly the same amount of power at idle.</p> <p>One thing you've noticed is that L and T series processors <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/3817/low-power-server-cpus-the-energy-saving-choice" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><em>can</em></a> consume significantly less power, even at idle/low load (although I'm not entirely sure what Intel does under the hood to do this.) However, this difference isn't necessarily huge–especially given their lower performance due to lower clocks.</p> <p>Given the nature of what you're doing, I wouldn't expect the CPU to be under full load most of the time, and therefore, I don't believe it makes sense to buy an L or T series processor given...</p> <h2>Cost</h2> <p>The cheapest L series v5 Xeon (the E3-1235L v5) has an MSRP of $250.00 (if you can find one at all.) Meanwhile, the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/90741/Intel-Celeron-Processor-G3900-2M-Cache-2_80-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Celeron G3900</a> is only <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kxs8TW/intel-cpu-bx80662g3900" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$30.61</a> with a rated TDP of 51W. At the US average of $0.12/kWh, even at full load, it would take roughly <strong>8 years</strong> of continuous usage to offset the cost differential between the two processors. It simply doesn't make sense to buy a more expensive processor.</p> <h2>Compatibility</h2> <p>The final nail in the coffin is that v5 Xeons simply aren't compatible with motherboards with consumer chipsets–including B250. While you could get a lower TDP consumer CPU, the price differential (a delta of $67.38 as of right now for the cheapest T series processor, the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qXp323/intel-core-i3-7100t-34ghz-dual-core-processor-bx80677i37100t" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i3-7100T</a>) probably isn't worth it.</p>

9220

2018-05-15T07:00:09.443

|processor|power|high-end|

<p>i'm setting up a computer with an LGA1151 cpu socket, and i'm looking for the cpu that would use the least amount of electricity for this motherboard. the cpu will not be stressed in the slightest, and does not need to be fast. i already have a computer doing the same tasks, running on a 2-core 35W TDP i3-7300T with hyperthreading disabled, and cpu frequency locked to 800MHz, and htop reports the cpu usage as being roughly "5-8% per core"</p> <p>going by TDP, it seems the 25W TDP <code>Intel Xeon E3-1235L V5</code> is my best bet, but i don't know if TDP is a good indicator, because that's "power consumption during high-intensity workloads", which is not what i'll be using it for.. suggestions?</p> <p>(also i'm confused at how the 4-core Xeon can use less power than all the 2-core / 1-core alternatives, going by TDP, but i guess that should be a separate question)</p>

LGA1151 CPU lowest power consumption?

<p>Put (relatively) simply, an NVMe capable drive can utilize the full bandwidth of pci-e x4 while non-NVMe capable drives will run at most at SATA speeds. Linked are two adapters that should let you leverage NVMe, one from Amazon and one from Newegg.</p> <p>Lycom DT-120 adapter: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00MYCQP38" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYCQP38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_gjU.AbK3KY1TA</a></p> <p>Syba SI-PEX40110 adapter: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=15-124-167" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=15-124-167</a></p> <p>Both will get the job done and are rated highly on their respective sites.</p>

9227

2018-05-17T20:46:34.030

|ssd|pcie|

<p>I have a <a href="https://thinkstation-specs.com/thinkstation-e32/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo Thinkstation E32</a> and I want to install an SSD to speed up my computer, but I got stuck on some specifications such as SSD M.2 and SSD M.2 NVMe. I read that NVMe is more powerful than SSD M.2. </p> <p>I'm thinking I need to install an adapter to use this <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B07BN5FJZQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NVMe PCIe M.2</a> in my computer, because I already have a PCIe Graphics Card installed. What adapter can I use that will allow the highest speed transfers that will fit in my computer?</p>

SSD M.2 NVMe PCIe

<p>For budget, don't go with a laptop unless portability is essential for you. Although the performance gap between laptops and desktops has shrunk with recent CPU and especially GPU series, a laptop capable of good video editing will still cost a lot. </p> <p>I'm assuming that you're looking for something under ₹70,000 (1029 USD). </p> <p>For price, I'd highly recommend building your own desktop. You'll probably save a few hundred US dollar in labor right there&mdash;not so relevant for multi-thousand dollar machines, maybe, but for a budget device it's OK. </p> <p>The <a href="https://helpx.adobe.com/after-effects/system-requirements.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">recommended requirements</a> for After Effects are modest, simply a multicore CPU and 16 GB RAM. To get good performance, you'll probably need a little more than that. I'd recommend an i7 CPU (or the AMD equivalent). </p> <ul> <li><p>If you step back a generation, you should be able to grab one of the best Intel CPUs of its generation, the i7-7700k, for about $250 used or even new. For example, <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-7th-Gen-Intel-Core-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-Unlocked-New-BX80677I77700K/123142256630?epid=11019364663&amp;hash=item1cabd9b7f6:g:cUcAAOSwHf5a~4U2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. </p></li> <li><p>For RAM, I'd go with 16 GB of DDR4, which should be <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X16%20GB%20ddr4.TRS0&amp;_nkw=16%20GB%20ddr4&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_odkw=500%20gb%20ssd" rel="nofollow noreferrer">around $150.</a> </p></li> <li><p>For your GPU, try getting a <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1060%20gpu%20used.TRS2&amp;_nkw=1060%20gpu%20used&amp;_sacat=0&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0&amp;_osacat=0&amp;_odkw=1060%20gpu%20new&amp;LH_TitleDesc=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">used 1060</a> for about $200. Depending on what you're doing in After Effects, a GPU could be essential or barely necessary, but CPU is usually a lot more important, so this is a compromise. </p></li> <li><p>For the motherboard, you might as well get an H370. Motherboards are cheap to begin with, and anything lower will set future upgrades back unnecessarily. For example, <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119072" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> for $132. </p></li> <li><p>For hard drives, I'd get one fast working SSD and one large HDD for storage. You can get a 2 TB HDD (7200 RPM) for <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitachi-Ultrastar-2TB-64MB-7200RPM-3-5-Enterprise-SATA-6-0Gb-s-Hard-Drive/161193823310?hash=item2587e68c4e:g:-GIAAOxydlFSzhG~:sc:USPSPriority!63130!US!-1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">about $50</a>, and a 500 GB SSD <a href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X500%20gb%20ssd.TRS0&amp;_nkw=500%20gb%20ssd&amp;_sacat=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">for only $150 or so.</a> </p></li> <li><p>You can probably grab a budget case for about $70. </p></li> </ul> <p>This totals about $1050 for a mostly new system. It should be very much capable of dealing with After Effects. It's slightly over your maximum (and I haven't included fans, power supply, etc.) but you can slice a little off by getting a lower tier motherboard (save $70), or a 250 GB SSD (save $70), or by getting the RAM used. Using a 6700k (two generations older, but similar speeds and can be overclocked anyway) could also save you a little. </p> <p>I won't talk about fans, etc., since they'll contribute relatively little to the price. </p> <p>If you really need a mobile system, it's going to be much harder to find a good one. There are a few good options, though, such as the <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Acer-Aspire-VX-15-Gaming-Laptop-VX5-591G-75RM-1050-Ti-16GB-256GB-SSD-i7-PC/112953661098?hash=item1a4c9016aa:g:Bi0AAOSwH~ta24CO" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer Aspire VX 15.</a> This has a 1050 Ti GPU, about 16 GB of RAM, and a 7th-generation i7 CPU. Storage is minimal, though, so you'll end up needed an external hard drive, and as a laptop its performance will certainly be lower than than a desktop of similar price. </p>

9236

2018-05-19T05:41:13.503

|video-editing|

<p>I am a IT professional, recently got into learning Video Editing for YouTube content creation. Currently I have tested few video editing tools on a laptop with below specs and the render times were devastating and frustrating. I created a sample 2 min project in After Effects and the render time was 8 hours with below specs.</p> <pre><code>Dell 3542 Intel Core i5 4210U 8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz Intel HD Graphics Family (Dell) 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce 820M (Dell) 232GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (SSD) </code></pre> <p>It got me thinking, what's the best PC I can build or Laptop I can purchase within ₹60-70K that would significantly reduce these render times and motivate me in using such powerful application? Even the Apple recommendation would do to if in the mentioned budget as I am open to other applications as well such as Final Cut Pro X.</p> <p>Note: I plan to editing and creating content in 1080p, not more than that for now.</p> <p>Thanks in advance!</p>

Need help building budget video editing PC/Laptop in ₹60-70K

<p>The review reflects a general rule about monitor resolution; given the same resolution, a 27" monitor will be slightly less clear on text and fine lines than a 24" monitor. This is where pixel density matters. Unfortunately, this isn't measured the same way a monitor's screen is measured, as pixel density is about how many pixels there are per a standard unit of measure, but monitor size is measured by the total screen length from the lower left corner to the upper right. Just like that one South Park episode, they measure at an angle to get a higher number. </p> <p>1920x1200, 24" 3840x2160, 27"</p> <p>1920*1200 = 2,304,000 pixels 3840*2160 = 8,294,400 pixels</p> <p>Both of these resolutions have a 16:10 aspect ratio. We now have all of the numbers we need to determine quite a lot about the monitor. We have the hypotenuse of a right triangle (24") but we have a different standard of measure for the sides (1920px L, 1200px W). We can use the Pythagorean Theorem to determine what '24"' means.</p> <p>1920sq + 1200sq = 3686400 + 1440000 = 5126400</p> <p>sqrt of 5126400 = 2264.155471693585</p> <p>3840*2160 = 14745600 * 4665600 = 19411200</p> <p>sqrt of 19411200 = 4405.814340164597</p> <p>Now we know how many pixels lie across that hypoteneuse for each monitor at the given resolutions. This lets us determine an estimate of density by ratio. </p> <p>2264.155471693585 / 24" = 94.33981132056604 approx ppi diagonally.</p> <p>4405.814340164597 / 27" = 163.1783088949851 approx ppi diagonally.</p> <p>Clearly, the higher resolution monitor here wins out. That's because the 4k monitor is nearly double the resolution, and is not double the size. The user who left the review likely had trouble seeing some things clearly on the 4k monitor because they were shrunk in size as a result, and lowered their resolution to 1080p; 1080p is not the native resolution on the monitor, and will appear blurry by comparison. This will also happen in fullscreen apps which do not support higher than 1080p. </p> <p>For text, I'd still use the smaller monitor. Given what I just said about reducing resolution of your display, text will appear smaller in native resolutions at 4k than it does in 1080p at the same font size and kerning. </p>

9252

2018-05-21T23:34:48.047

|monitors|displays|

<p>I'm looking to get a second monitor for my 2018 27" iMac. </p> <p>The <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00PC9HFNY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell P2715Q</a> seems to be a common choice. It comes in 27" and 24" sizes. The <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3KO657VUCJBK7/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00PC9HFNY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">first review</a> on the Amazon site says that </p> <blockquote> <p>the 24" has the highest pixel density for the resolution -- if you go up to 27 or 28" you will get excellent resolution but not as crisp text</p> </blockquote> <p>Can anyone verify this? Or does anyone other suggestions for an external display for an iMac? </p> <p>I will be mounting this second monitor in portrait mode, and using it for coding and reading. I value really clear text, the way my 5k monitor for the iMac provides. I especially like that zooming in with the trackpad preserves the clarity of the text. (Though this may be true for every hi-res monitor.)</p> <p>My plan is to connect the monitor to the iMac with a display port -> USB-C cable.</p>

24" external monitor will have crisper text than 27"?

<h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B079QRS43V" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell S2719DM</a></h2> <p>This monitor is 27 inches, 2560 by 1440, and claims a brightness of 600 nits. This beats out even the brightest 500 nit Macbooks, and certainly the more common 350 or 400 nit ones. And it's only $350.</p> <p>It's also fairly thin. It only has HDMI ports, but so does the Mac Mini, so no big deal.</p>

9259

2018-05-23T16:13:35.533

|monitors|

<p>I am a software developer, recently moved to a new office with huge windows. There is so much sunlight that the regular monitor I have been provided with looks dark at 100% brightness. Is there a good 27' monitor with brightness similar to macbookpro retina, for example? It will be used with a mac mini.</p>

Bright monitor for office with intense ambient sunlight

<h1>Whatever's cheapest <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#xcx=0&amp;s=30&amp;c=129,130,128&amp;sort=price&amp;m=7,8,14,27,94" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</h1> <p><strong>Currently that's an <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144164&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI B360M PRO-VD</a> for $55.99.</strong></p> <p><a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/126688/Intel-Core-i3-8100-Processor-6M-Cache-3_60-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Since your CPU doesn't support overclocking</a>, unless you have plans to upgrade to an unlocked chip, getting a Z series board is unnecessary for overclocking. As such, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cx8rS9_vNDo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">no motherboard will offer a performance boost</a>, assuming it supports your RAM speed, which–based on the tier of the rest of the system–I'm assuming isn't particularly high, and is likely supported by all motherboards.</p> <p>From there I've basically just selected for price. You may be losing some I/O, and most of the cheaper boards only support 2 RAM modules (not a huge deal since your system only supports dual channel anyways, unless you have plans to upgrade your RAM), but it shouldn't really matter too much. </p> <p>I've additionally chosen to eliminate Biostar and Gigabyte–not because their products are bad, but because of their relatively poor customer support.</p>

9261

2018-05-23T21:28:29.413

|motherboard|

<p>I find on Google about the motherboard for I3 8100 + GTX 1060 but it keep saying about Asus - Prime Z370-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard, which is a near high-end motherboard at $120 for Intel Core I7 which is for my budget build, it is unacceptable. So any alternative solutions for this motherboard ?</p>

What is a perfect motherboard for my budget build I3 8100 + GTX 1050 TI 4 GB?

<p>So far I've only been able to find two keyboards that fit the bill. I don't have a particular recommendation of one over the other–they both are from decent but not excellent brands, use slightly funky layouts, are fairly pricy, and look (IMO) fairly poor–but neither are particularly bad options, and I'd recommend you choose on personal preference.</p> <h3><a href="https://www.gskill.com/en/product/ripjaws-km780-mx--cherry-mx-blue" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G.Skill KM780 MX</a> - <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4ntWGX/gskill-keyboard-gkksr1c2km780s10na" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$103.67</a> / <a href="https://www.gskill.com/en/product/ripjaws-km780r-mx--cherry-mx-blue" rel="nofollow noreferrer">KM780R MX</a> - <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/w2mxFT/gskill-keyboard-gkksr1c2km780rs10na" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$83.20</a> / KM780R MX RGB - <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cntWGX/gskill-keyboard-gkkcl1c2km780rs10na" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$129.99</a></h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUSN9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUSN9.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <h3><a href="http://cougargaming.com/products/keyboards/700k/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cougar 700k</a> - <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cM8H99/cougar-keyboard-kbc7003is" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$117.79</a></h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oym0l.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oym0l.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

9286

2018-05-29T00:37:47.930

|keyboards|

<p>I have been searching a mechanical keyboard with following features for a very long time. Many major players I checked in the market have some of the features, but none have them all. I figure there must be a manufacturer combines them together.</p> <ul> <li>"Open" Design. Like Corsaire K70, I want a borderless keyboard for convenient cleaning. A blow of wind should be able to pass through from one end of the keyboard to another.</li> <li>2+ USB/audio passthrough. I have seen similar designs in Razer and Daskeyboard. The former brand offers 1 USB and 1 audio port while the latter offers 2 USB ports. Both are good.</li> <li>Tactile switch. I prefer Cherry MX blue. But similar switches are also welcomed. I.e. Razer Green Switch.</li> <li>Dedicated Media keys for volume control and playback. No keybindings needed, such as Fn + F12 is not good.</li> </ul> <p>Thank you.</p>

Does Such Mechanical Keyboards Exist?

<p>These style machines (as pictured) are made with proprietary connections and components. The problem you'd have, even if you found a way to adapt the connection to a standard PCI-E slot, is that the drivers for the non-reference circuit board that chip is on do not exist for Windows. </p> <p>Considering that these are GPUs on part with a modern $200-250 card like the GTX 1050 or 1060, I'd save yourself the heartache of wrecking your tech and just get a new card for the PC. </p>

9291

2018-05-30T03:09:49.103

|graphics-cards|gaming|windows|apple|

<p>I have a Mac Pro with two amd firepro d700 GPUs. Can I pull one of those GPUs out and stick it right into a Windows pc? Or did AMD make these GPUs specifically for Apple only?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KsPD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KsPD.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

Can I put AMD firepro d700 GPU into a Windows PC

<p>This is dependent on brand and design, so there's not a universal, fixed answer. On modern toner-based printers, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toner" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the average is around 13% of the toner being wasted.</a> Earlier or lousy models can go up to 25%. While it's technologically possible to route the wasted toner from the waste sump back to the print toner, this changes the chemical composition of the toner to have less fusible material, lowering the quality of the print. It is not in the interest of any printer company to overcome this issue, as the margin on toner is very high, as is demand.</p>

9295

2018-05-31T01:51:46.913

|printer|

<p>As the title says, "how much toner is wasted on every print?". If you've ever had a laser printer, you know that either each cartridge has a waste toner reservoir or a common reservoir is on the drum cartridge/assembly.</p> <p>I want to know if there's a way to say how much toner is dropped into the waste reservoir.</p> <p>For example: if I only print a line, does the printer dispense the entire sheet/page size of toner?.</p> <p>Thanks in advance.,</p>

how much toner is wasted on every print

<h1>Yes, but don't get one if you can avoid it.</h1> <p>There are only two HDDs that fit the requirements you have: the Seagate <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VpgPxr/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st2000nx0253" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ST2000NX0253</a> and the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zNPzK8/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st2000nx0303" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ST2000NX0303</a>. At ~$300 each, these things are ridiculously expensive; you're looking at <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/internal-hard-drive/#sort=ppgb&amp;f=3&amp;t=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SSD tier pricing</a> for a spinning drive. </p> <p>My recommendation would be to instead get a cheaper 5400RPM drive–my recommendation goes to the <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2fGj4D/seagate-barracuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lm015" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Seagate ST2000LM015</a> (currently $71.99) because of the reasonably large cache and Seagate's relatively solid reputation–and then set aside some SSD space as a cache, depending on the write endurance of your drive and OS/platform.</p>

9310

2018-06-04T07:52:17.450

|hard-disk|high-end|

<p>Is there currently a 2 TB or greater laptop HDD that can attain 7200 RPM or more? If there's more than one, which of them would be the fastest or most reliable? </p>

Best 2 TB 7200 RPM laptop spinning disk drive?

<p>I'll structure this response by increasing complexity of the solution.</p> <ol> <li><p>Turn it off turn it back on. Use the power button to shut it down, some systems use quick-boot if you shut down from within the operating system. Quick-boot preserves the system state and as such cannot act as a system reset.</p></li> <li><p>(This one costs money)Buy an external WiFi adapter or NIC, as mentioned in the previous response. Also as mentioned previously, make sure your laptop has at minimum a USB 3.0 port if you want any reasonable speed. </p></li> <li><p>Reinstall the drivers. This requires a small amount of technical knowledge, and can bork you WiFi card if done improperly. Using system info, identify your WiFi card. Then download the latest drivers from the website if you have windows, or your operating system's requisite driver repository for all other os's. Uninstall the current driver, even if it's the same version as the one you acquired. Reinstall the freshly downloaded driver.</p></li> <li><p>Replace the WiFi card.(This one costs money) Don't do this if you have no knowledge of computer internals. Identify the make and model of your WiFi card. Purchase an identical one or a compatible replacement. Download the drivers for your new card. Uninstall your old drivers. Replace the WiFi card. Install the new drivers.</p></li> </ol> <p>If none of these work, consider repositioning yourself closer to the router, or replacing you router with one that produces a stronger signal. Worst case scenario you might have to replace your laptop. Edited to give structure, posting the response initially smushed all the points together.</p>

9314

2018-06-05T13:49:47.383

|laptop|pc|wifi|windows|

<p>Laptop hit the floor. It's difficult if not already impossible to connect to WiFi. Sometimes laptop can detect WiFi, particularly the one at home, but the signal is usually weak. Sometimes it shows option of connecting but whenever I try to connect, it either says it's connected though I can't connect or it stops detecting WiFi. What are my options please? Is there some way to externalise the WiFi detection? Like I plug in something that detects WiFi?</p>

Laptop hit the floor. How to connect to WiFi?

<h1>Early 2011 to Mid 2012 MacBook Pro 15" non-Retina</h1> <p>Within the MacBook Pro line, there's two big cutoff points: the switch from a dual core in early 2011, and the introduction of the Retina line in mid 2012. For sake of rough comparison, we'll separate things out into these three categories.</p> <pre><code>Model | Passmark | Cost | RAM upgradability? | Storage upgradability? –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Latitude E7450 | 3400 - 3798 | ~$270 | Yes | Yes Late 2008 - Mid 2010 | 1540 - 2846 | ~$190 - $240 | Yes | Yes Early 2011 - Mid 2012 | 5460 - 8454 | ~$330 - $520 | Yes | Yes Mid 2012 - Mid 2015 | 7369 - 10202 | ~$590 - $1120 | No | Yes, with some SSDs </code></pre> <p>Comparing the E7450 to the MBPs, it falls into this weird gap performance-wise between the dual cores and the quad cores with the rMBPs well above what you need, since it's a newer dual core without hyperthreading. Purely for future usability, I'm going to recommend you spend the extra bit and get a lower end quad core.</p> <p>Note that the performance of the rMBPs actually overlaps the standard MBPs, since they were released simultaneously with the same processors. Besides the upgraded screen and lighter weight–things that seem to be unimportant to you–the early rMBPs seem to offer little advantage, while carrying a price premium, having less I/O, and less upgradability. As such, I'm going to recommend you stay away from them.</p> <p>Depending on what model you get, you'll probably want to upgrade the RAM and storage to match your reference laptop. Both of these are user serviceable on the unibody MBPs, and can be easily serviced following the <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook_Pro_15%22_Unibody" rel="nofollow noreferrer">appropriate iFixit guide.</a> If you're not using the optical drive, you can also swap it out for a secondary HDD or SSD. Note that there are some issues with SATA III compatibility to be aware of, but these are general non-issues if you're careful.</p> <p>Note that prices are approximate based on recent eBay sold listings. As with any complete system, finding a reasonable price on a used machine will take some patience and searching on various sites. </p>

9325

2018-06-09T04:45:14.203

|laptop|development|apple|

<p>I am a developer in the Linux ecosystem and I need to build an application in the Apple ecosystem but I am unfamiliar with Apple products.</p> <p>What is the cheapest MacBook Pro that I can purchase to start and use for web application development? It would have to be capable of running a small Oracle database and possibly an ETL tool.</p> <p>It does not have to be a new model as I have seen some ‘older’ models for a good price. If you could provide the specs and estimated cost that would help me sort things out. I have researched some articles and it seems the MacBook Pro is preferred but beyond that my knowledge is limited.</p>

MacBook for web development

<p>A package like the <a href="https://amzn.to/2JKupxO" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>KKmoon HW0029</strong></a> or the <a href="http://C310" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>FREECAM C310</strong></a> would probably do it pretty neatly.</p> <p>To mount something on the poll you can use a bracket like this <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pole-Mount-Bracket-SUNLUXY-Universal-Column-Camera-Mounting-Bracket-8-inches-/282935918551" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pole-Mount-Bracket-SUNLUXY-Universal-Column-Camera-Mounting-Bracket-8-inches-/282935918551</a></p>

9326

2018-06-09T16:16:56.087

|video|home-security|internet-of-things|

<p>I am trying to set up some DIY home security video streams. I have several IP cams, like the D-Link night/day wireless Cloud Cam.</p> <p>The problem is that it's hard to get a good angle and it's hard to deal with multiple video streams.</p> <p>My idea is to leverage a tall (30'?) flagpole. If I could mount a camera to it at the right angle I could see my entire yard/perimeter from one camera. This is perfect since I want to be able to see where my dog is in the yard to know that she's OK.</p> <p>However, I don't know what hardware (mounting stuff? solar power source? etc?) I would need nor how the heck I would get to the top of the pole to install it... </p>

Mount an IP camera to the top of a flagpole

<p>Your motherboard manual, which you can find a <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B85M-D3H-rev-10-11#support-manual" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link to here</a>, has a layout map on page twelve.</p> <p>In the lower right hand corner of that map, there's a pair of pins that are labeled &quot;CLR_CMOS&quot;. It is labeled by reference number 15. CMOS is the onboard memory storage for your motherboard, and is used to save BIOS settings. The CMOS memory can be cleared in two ways without booting the computer or accessing BIOS.</p> <ol> <li>Follow the instructions on page 18 to short the pins and clear the CMOS memory:</li> </ol> <blockquote> <p>Use this jumper to clear the BIOS configurations and reset the CMOS values to factory defaults. To clear the CMOS values, use a metal object like a screwdriver to touch the two pins for a few seconds.</p> <p>Always turn off your computer and unplug the power cord from the power outlet before clearing the CMOS values.</p> <p>After system restart, go to BIOS Setup to load factory defaults (select Load Optimized Defaults) or manually configure the BIOS settings (refer to Chapter 2, &quot;BIOS Setup,&quot; for BIOS configurations).</p> </blockquote> <ol start="2"> <li>Pull the CMOS battery from the board for a few seconds before replacing it. This is located near the center of your motherboard, and is round like a watch battery. In the diagram on page 12 of your manual, you're looking for number 5 labeled as &quot;BAT&quot;.</li> </ol> <p>After you successfully clear the CMOS memory, factory default settings should be restored and you should be able to boot the machine normally. Make sure to enter BIOS and re-configure any necessary settings before booting to your operating system.</p> <p>If that doesn't work, my next order of business in terms of recommendations would probably be to take your power supply into a local shop for testing. This is usually free but you can always call ahead to make sure.</p>

9333

2018-06-11T15:02:56.177

|motherboard|windows|

<p>Yesterday I cleaned my pc, removed RAM, disk, and cpu fan(not cpu). After the clean-up I re-connected all the components again only to find out that the computer starts but reboots after a few seconds(the power supply and cpu fans turn up and then turn down... and repeat until I disconnect them).</p> <blockquote> <p>Hardware specifications</p> </blockquote> <ol> <li>Power supply: Corsair CX 750</li> <li>Board: GA B85M-D3H</li> <li>CPU: Intel I3 4150</li> <li>HDD: Seagate 160GB/1TB</li> <li>RAM: Kingstom 2x 2GB</li> </ol> <p>I didn't miss a connection or touched the cpu. I think that would be the BIOS deprogrammed or corrupt. In this case how could I re-program or update the BIOS if I couldn't event access to it? Can I re-program/update a bios from another computer?</p> <p>I have searched in several supports forums but anything worked for me.</p> <p>What do you recommend in this case?</p> <p>Thanks in advance.</p>

My computer restart it self before bios(how to re-program the bios)

<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thunderbolt_(interface)#Thunderbolt_3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thunderbolt 3</a> offers this already using <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Physical)#Power_Delivery_(PD)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB Power Delivery</a> of up to 100W</p> <blockquote> <p>Thunderbolt 3 was developed by Intel[48] and uses USB-C connectors. It is the first generation to support USB. Compared to Thunderbolt 2, Intel's Thunderbolt 3 controller (codenamed Alpine Ridge) doubles the bandwidth to 40 Gbit/s (5 GB/s), halves power consumption, and simultaneously drives two external 4K displays at 60 Hz (or a single external 4K display at 120 Hz, or a 5K display at 60 Hz when using Apple's implementation for the late-2016 MacBook Pros) instead of just the single display previous controllers can drive. The new controller supports PCIe 3.0 and other protocols, including DisplayPort 1.2 (allowing for 4K resolutions at 60 Hz).</p> <p>Thunderbolt 3 has limited power delivery capabilities on copper cables and no power delivery capability on optical cables. Using USB-C on copper cables, it can incorporate USB Power Delivery, allowing the ports to source or sink up to 100 watts of power. This eliminates the need for a separate power supply from some devices. Thunderbolt 3 allows backwards compatibility with the first two versions by the use of adapters or transitional cables.</p> </blockquote> <p>However, your PC would obviously need a Thunderbolt connection.</p> <p>If your current PC has only DVI or HDMI outputs, as your post seems to suggest, then as neither of those offer sufficient power for a monitor, then your existing setup would not accommodate your request.</p> <p>HDMI 1.4a <em>can</em> supply power, but the port supplies only 50  mA at 5 V DC over pin 18.</p> <p>Apart from <a href="https://everymac.com/monitors/apple/thunderbolt/specs/apple-thunderbolt-display-27-inch-specs.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Apple's 27&quot; Thunderbolt capable monitor</a>, which they have just discontinued (although you may be able to still pick up some discounted remaining stock), there aren't that many on the market. LG recently announced two models:</p> <ul> <li>34WK95U</li> <li>32UK950</li> </ul> <p>From <a href="https://appleinsider.com/articles/17/12/21/lg-teases-new-apple-compatible-thunderbolt-3-monitors-including-5k-ultrawide-model" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG teases new Apple-compatible Thunderbolt 3 monitors including '5K UltraWide' model</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The 34WK95U is a 34-inch model with 5,120-by-2,160 resolution, high dynamic range, and LG's &quot;Nano IPS&quot; technology, which is said to boost the &quot;intensity and purity&quot; of colors. Thunderbolt 3 lets the monitor handle 5K images at 60 hertz, and connect laptops like the MacBook Pro without an additional power source.</p> <p>The 32UK950 will offer a similar featureset, but in a more conventional aspect ratio and with a slightly smaller 32-inch screen. The display is said to hit 98 percent of the DCI-P3 color gamut, with peak brightness of 600 nits, and support a second 4K monitor through daisy-chaining.</p> </blockquote>

9338

2018-06-13T07:58:17.880

|monitors|

<p>I use a Phillips monitor from about 2010. The resolution is 1920x1080 and the only possible refresh rate is 60 Hz.</p> <p>This monitor has two cables: one is the AC power, and one is from the monitor itself to the PC (HDMI in that particular case, thought it could be DVI or anything else relevant).</p> <p>I'm looking forward to buy a monitor that has only one cable --- from the monitor itself to the computer, without an AC power plug.</p> <p>Is there such a thing in 2018 or planned to come out in 2019? I'll be glad to check that.</p>

Are there any computer screens without their very own AC power plugs and sockets?

<p>The "PC" number is a <em>DDR module name</em>, it indicates module's data rate.</p> <ul> <li><code>PC4-17000</code> modules have 2133 MHz data rate (2133 &times; 8 &asymp; 17000)</li> <li><code>PC4-19200</code> modules have 2400 MHz data rate (2400 &times; 8 = 19200).</li> </ul> <p>The <code>4</code> indicates that it's a DDR4 module. <code>17000</code> and <code>19200</code> are peak transfer rates. DDR4 data bus is 8 bytes wide, so 8 bytes are transmitted each clock cycle, hence multiplication by <code>8</code>.</p> <p>Now, which is better: PC4-17000 with CL 15 or PC4-19200 with CL 17?</p> <p>CAS latency (or CL for short) is measured in clock cycles, so we can calculate how much time fetching data takes for each of these modules.</p> <ul> <li><p>2133 MHz = 2,133,000,000 cycles &div; 1 s</p> <p>Each cycle takes 1 &div; 2133 &micro;s</p> <p>Latency is 15 &div; 2133 &micro;s &asymp; 7.0323 ns</p></li> <li><p>2400 MHz = 2,400,000,000 cycles &div; 1 s</p> <p>Each cycle takes 1 &div; 2400 &micro;s</p> <p>Latency is 17 &div; 2400 &micro;s &asymp; 7.0833 ns</p></li> </ul> <p>So PC4-17000 has slightly better CAS latency.</p> <p><strong>But!</strong> All RAM has to work with the same clock speed, so once you've installed 2133 MHz module, your current 2400 MHz module will underclock to 2133 MHz too.</p> <p>I'd probably go for 2400 MHz one. Latency difference is very small, but clock is 12.5% faster.</p>

9351

2018-06-15T05:15:51.073

|laptop|memory|

<p>I'm thinking to buy new RAM (for <code>Lenovo 320 15AST</code>, motherboard is <code>LNVNB161216</code>). I had 4GB, I need 8GB. My current RAM is <code>m471a5143sb1 2133Mhz, CAS (CL) 17, PC19200</code>.</p> <p>I was looking at two with such specs: </p> <pre><code>Crucial [CT8G4SFD8213] 2133 Mhz, PC17000, 15-15-15-36 </code></pre> <p>VS</p> <pre><code>Patriot Signature [PSD48G240081S] 2400 Mhz, PC19200, 17. </code></pre> <p>First is a bit cheaper, has frequency that no more that baseboard provides, lower latency, but lower PC (also I'm not sure which PC my baseboard provides).</p> <p>(I think I'm gonna go with this one: SODIMM Crucial [CT8G4SFS824A] 8 GB)</p> <p>(I have this question on superuser, I just had to move it here, there also answer <a href="https://superuser.com/a/1331321/489178">already</a>, but if you have something to add you're welcome)</p>

Which RAM should I prefer (CL vs PC)?

<p>As far as I know there isn't such a thing officially available. Search keyword would be "USB 3G voice calling dongle."</p> <p>There are some guides over the internet on how to "hack" data dongles to be able to call with it. See this: <a href="https://www.journeybytes.com/2017/08/how-to-make-and-pick-calls-with-your.html?m=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.journeybytes.com/2017/08/how-to-make-and-pick-calls-with-your.html?m=1</a> And this: <a href="http://www.ruchirablog.com/unlock-voice-huawei-hspa/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.ruchirablog.com/unlock-voice-huawei-hspa/</a></p>

9353

2018-06-15T09:14:01.583

|usb|mobile-phone|

<p>Is there such a device that would allow to connect a SIM card through USB and make an actual phone call? (no VOIP, not using a smartphone)</p> <p>If yes, how is it called, what keywords should I use to get more info? Or do you have recommendations?</p> <p>Thank you</p>

Making a phone call with a laptop? (with a SIM card)

<h1>Probably the Node 202 based on price, but making your own could be pretty cool.</h1> <p>Although really it depends how much you care about size vs. cost vs. your own time, since you're not exactly trying to cram a lot of hardware in.</p> <h1>Compatibility</h1> <p>Looking at an overhead view of the motherboard, it clearly shares the same mounting holes as mITX.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuISx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuISx.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdyRh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdyRh.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>So any case with mITX support–such as any one from the the 15 pages <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#f=8&amp;xcx=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>–will work. Not sure what case you were trying that didn't work; most cases these days have support for mITX.</p> <h1>Off the shelf cases</h1> <p>The thing about a case is that it's ultimately a matter of taste, and I can't decide that for you. With that, I'm going to provide a range of good cases and let you choose what you like. Most of this is copied from my previous answer <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/8705/general-mini-itx-recommendations/8748#8748">here.</a></p> <h2>Very small cases</h2> <p>These cases are generally described as &quot;artisan&quot;: made by specialized companies in low volumes, with extremely good build quality, at extremely high prices.</p> <h3><a href="http://zaber.com.pl/sentry/#home" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dr. Zaber Sentry</a></h3> <p><strong>$235 (TBD), 6.9L, 305mm video card, 5x2.5&quot;, SFX-L PSU</strong></p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrqAV.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>It's the epitome of a very small case: extremely expensive, extremely tiny, extremely good build quality (primaily powder coated steel), pretty good compatibility with a few things to keep in mind, and runs a bit hot, but generally extremely good. One big issue though: you can't buy one. <a href="https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/849582-where-can-i-buy-a-dr-zabers-sentry-case/?do=findComment&amp;comment=10595833" rel="nofollow noreferrer">They're apparently targeting Q1 2018</a>, but for now, I can't recommend what you can't buy.</p> <h3><a href="http://nfc-systems.com/skyreach-4-mini/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NFC Skyreach 4 MINI</a></h3> <p><strong>$199, 5.0L, 215mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, special</strong></p> <p>It's the smallest case in this category. Note that video card compatibility is very limited, drive mounting is limited, and most of all, PSU compatibility is virtually nil, with only two PSUs listed (a <a href="https://www.hdplex.com/hdplex-400w-hi-fi-dc-atx-power-supply-16v-24v-wide-range-voltage-input.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$95 400W DC-DC</a> and a <a href="https://www.sfflab.com/products/dynamo-mini-dc-atx-200w" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$58 200W DC-DC</a>); however, these should be non-issues for you.</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WS1jn.png" alt="" /></p> <h3><a href="https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DAN A4-SFX</a></h3> <p><strong>$255 (TBD), 7.2L, 295mm video card, 3x2.5&quot;, SFX-L</strong></p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzwcG.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>You like shoeboxes? I like shoeboxes! Made under contract by Lian-Li of mostly aluminum, it's (IMO) the prettiest case on this list. But again, it's not for sale yet (just preorders), and I can't recommend what you can't buy.</p> <h2>Pretty small cases</h2> <p>These cases are a step up in size from the very small cases, and benefits to match. These are largely cheaper, easier to work with, have better support, and are actually available to purchase!</p> <h3><a href="https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NCASE M1</a></h3> <p><strong>$195, 12.6L, 317mm video card, 3x3.5&quot; + 3x2.5&quot;, ATX (SFX-L highly recommended)</strong> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kxf4z.png" alt="" /></p> <p>The sort of &quot;daddy&quot; of small cases, the NCASE M1 is the last artisan case on this list, and one of the older ones here. It has incredible support for hardware (even a slimline optical drive!), while being spacious enough to keep things from getting too toasty.</p> <h3><a href="http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fractal Design Node 202</a></h3> <p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$80</a> or <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XbKhP6/fractal-design-case-fdmcanode202aaus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$130 with a 450W PSU</a>, 10.2L, 310mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L</strong> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/csdkD.jpg" alt="" /> It's an extremely popular choice, and a good one! Nothing stands out really except for the very reasonable price.</p> <h3><a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=533" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone FTZ01</a> <a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ01" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RVZ01</a>, <a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ02" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RVZ02</a>, and <a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/index.php?model=RVZ03" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RVZ03</a></h3> <p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GCfp99/silverstone-case-rvz01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$85</a> to <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/P9Wrxr/silverstone-case-ftz01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$130</a>, 14L, 330mm video card, 1x3.5&quot; + 2-4x2.5&quot;, SFX-L</strong></p> <p>All very similar with nothing too stand out; the RVZ03 trades the slimline optical slot and 3.5&quot; mount for an extra 4x2.5&quot; mount and RGB lighting.</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JL2iZ.jpg" alt="" /> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMdoq.jpg" alt="" /> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NwZ34.jpg" alt="" /> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1b1R.jpg" alt="" /></p> <h3><a href="http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=607" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone ML08</a></h3> <p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bvfmP6/silverstone-case-sstml08b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$70</a>, 12L, 330mm video card, 2x2.5&quot;, SFX-L</strong></p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWBbG.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>It's literally based on the RVZ02, but smaller, cheaper, less drive mounting, and with an optional handle!</p> <h3>Honorable mention</h3> <p>The Silverstone SG05 and Silverstone SG06 are neat too, but much boxier. The Fractal Design Array R2, Lian-Li Q09, Raidmax Element, SilverStone SG07 and SG08, and Xigmatek Eris EN6305 are no longer in production, though they would make perfectly good boxes if you can find them.</p> <h2>Not as small cases</h2> <p>They're bigger with support for more things! They're also <strong>much quieter.</strong> Carrying handles are a must here, since you said that regular transport was an integral part to this build. These cases seem to have largely fallen out of favor as smaller cases take over the mITX sector, but I've put them here anyways.</p> <h3><a href="https://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/prodigy/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BitFenix Prodigy</a></h3> <p><strong><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KsTmP6/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$60</a>, 26.4L, 317mm video card, 5x3.5&quot;, ATX</strong></p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XARnd.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZXDgjVY_EI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HardwareCanucks put it best:</a> It's a beautiful chassis at a great price with a few minor compromises for that goal.</p> <h3>Honorable mentions</h3> <p>The <a href="http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-380t-portable-mini-itx-case" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Corsair 380T</a> is a great case, but unfortunately, it no longer appears to be in production, and second hand prices for it are absurd. The <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qGcMnQ/silverstone-case-sstcs01b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverstone CS01B</a> is also rather neat, but the 190mm max video card length kills any recommendation. The <a href="https://cougargaming.com/en/products/cases/qbx/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cougar QBX</a> and <a href="http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fractal Design Define Nano S</a> are beautiful and compact, but too large to not have a carrying handle and still be intended as portable IMO.</p> <h1>Your own case</h1> <p>The great thing about building a PC is that you're free to use whatever components you'd like, including building your own! Because you're not trying to cram a lot of hardware in, if you're really bent on getting the smallest case possible, it might be worth looking at rolling your own. The off-the-shelf cases are created with the intention of being used with more &quot;normal&quot; motherboards and usually have to accommodate a PSU and GPU–things that aren't issues in your case. mITX is an open standard, and it doesn't take much to make a basic case.</p>

9378

2018-06-24T21:37:26.727

|motherboard|case|

<p>I am searching for a case that is as small as possible but can fit a Hp 110 250 Series Motherboard 762025-001 and a HDD or SDD (and maybe a case fan).<br> The motherboard has a build in energy supply so that there is no need for a power adapter. That is also the part that is confusing me.<br> I thought maybe a HTPC case or a small cube is working, but the motherboard holes are not fitting with what I found.<br> Any ideas for such a "special" board?</p>

Nano case for Hp 110 250 Series Motherboard 762025-001

<p>I own and use a previously successful Kickstarter campaign product known as the Dacuda Pocket Scanner. The 2014 project resulted in a great working hand-sized device which produces reasonably good output. </p> <p>My search for a link from which to purchase resulted in failure, as all indications (from Dacuda!) is that they don't and won't make them any more.</p> <p>Strange enough, a generic search found this <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B014JZ4264" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PenPower BeeScan</a> device.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cn9in.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cn9in.jpg" alt="hand scanner image"></a></p> <p>It is point for point and feature for feature the same scanner that I have from Dacuda. Off topic, I wonder if there was some intellectual property loss involved in Dacuda's decision to cease production!</p> <p>My scans usually involve the newspaper and for that purpose it is excellent. As with all newsprint, the reverse shows through, which means I won't post a sample of that type of scan.</p> <p>Lucky for me, I have one of a day-to-day calendar page which has opaque paper and no reverse bleed-through.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhvHT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhvHT.jpg" alt="Pearls Before Swine scanned image"></a></p> <p>This was possibly a two-scan image, but the unit stitches pieces together very well. Occasionally it is necessary to make a second pass when things get out of kilter. The second pass usually puts them back in kilter.</p> <p>It is bluetooth coupled to a tablet or phone and has very low latency.</p> <p>I've snapped off a few photos to show the similarities:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhnTy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhnTy.jpg" alt="dacuda 1 image"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DniWm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DniWm.jpg" alt="dacuda 2 image"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WqDmX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WqDmX.jpg" alt="dacuda 3 image"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiiC4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xiiC4.jpg" alt="dacuda 4 image"></a></p>

9390

2018-06-27T16:43:57.033

|scanner|

<p>The local county has delicate, aging documents that we would like to digitize for preservation and archival. Mostly things like building plans and public records books. Many of these are either too large or too fragile to feed through document feeders or on flatbeds.</p> <p>The ideal solution would be a 300 to 600 dpi wand-type scanner with the ability, either on board or via software utility, to stitch the scanned images together to create a single image.</p> <p>Not opposed to separating the software functionality from the hardware, so long as the end result is the same.</p>

Looking for a Hand (Wand) Scanner

<h1>There's nothing you should get for your MacBook (right now)</h1> <p>In doing my research, I found just two solutions that sort of have what you want. Both also focus on including more I/O, not just the battery. My guess is for a product of this nature, they'll all do this.</p> <h3><a href="https://www.linedock.co/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Linedock</a> - $299</h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Vpl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j1Vpl.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>At 71.61 Wh–146% of the MacBook 13" built-in battery–this thing packs a pretty hefty punch. However, your wallet will also feel it. <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B01MZ61PRW" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Compared to other "dumb" battery banks with similar capacity</a>, it's a hefty price to pay. Sure, you get more I/O and (optionally) storage and a great form factor, but that's a lot of $$$. Note also that, while shaped like the MacBook, <strong>it is not a case and does not sit flush with the MacBook</strong>, and is much closer to a pad than a case.</p> <p>Finally, note that this is an Indiegogo project, and so far, doesn't seem to have any reputable reviews or even confirmation of shipments as far as I can tell; it hasn't even finished shipping to backers. There's really no way I can recommend you buy this product at this stage.</p> <h3><a href="https://www.owcdigital.com/dec" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DEC</a></h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0GBf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0GBf.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>It's a beautiful product by a reputable manufacturer that basically does what the Linedock does, but better. Only issue: it really doesn't exist yet. There's no pricing, specs, or even delivery date. While <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUe2KAwvZsA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">at least one prototype was created</a>, it did not include a battery. You can't preorder it, and there's no way I'd recommend you do.</p> <h3>Random battery banks?</h3> <p>Unfortunately, as far as I could find, there aren't any plain battery banks that are even close to the form factor of a MacBook. Even sites making recommendations specifically for the MacBook at best just end up recommending slim battery banks like <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0759TDR3H" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Aukey model</a>, and unless you want to carry one separately rather than affixed to your device, I can't seriously recommend one.</p>

9402

2018-06-29T14:06:33.503

|battery-life|

<p>I would like to install a battery pack on the bottom of 2017 13in MacBook Pro(I don't mind tapping it honestly). Considering it charges by USB C I am hopefully this might not be to difficult. I use my MacBook Pro while commuting but the battery doesn't last long enough.</p> <p>If there isn't one of my Macbook Pro maybe my 13 Thinkpad?</p>

13in Battery Thinkpad/MacBook Pro

<p>Great answer by tanius.</p> <p>I would also add that DECT phones are better suited to voice communications as DECT is a stream / connection based rather than packet based protocols built on top of WiFi.</p> <p>This allows for tighter control of the quality of service, codecs, power consumption etc.</p> <p>Mentioned FritzBox offers many access points / routers with DECT stack built in. </p>

9410

2018-07-01T10:41:44.993

|telephony|voip|

<p>Since the public landline telephone system has been switched to SIP now (more or less all of it), it makes sense to start using native SIP phones instead of connecting an analog or ISDN or DECT phone to a SIP-capable PBX (such as FritzBox etc.).</p> <p>Of these native SIP phones, I would like to try a wifi handset. This is a device looking much like a DECT handset, but instead of connecting to a base station via DECT ("<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP-DECT" rel="nofollow noreferrer">IP-DECT</a>" technology, using the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT-iq" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CAT-iq protocol</a>) it would connect via wifi. So, if there is a dependable wifi setup in the building, there's no need to add DECT coverage as well.</p> <p>I know I can use any Android device with a SIP softphone app for this, but since there are people in the household used to a "proper" phone and not yet to "fiddly" smartphones, I rather want a single-purpose phone device with hardware buttons.</p> <p><strong>I found several models, but all around 300 USD or more.</strong> That sounds very strange, given that such a device is not more complex than a DECT handset available for 80 USD or less. Am I missing something?</p>

Affordable cordless SIP wifi phone

<p>It's unlikely there are <em>any</em> HDDs with an embedded controller without firmware upgrade feature, though this upgrade feature need not be documented - the firmware developers will want to have access, too. </p> <p>But if you are doing reverse engineering, why not use a reverse engineered HDD firmware, and disable the upgrade feature yourself? Of course, you better don't make a mistake in this, because you'll have only one shot ...</p> <p>And on the subject of mobo firmware: There's plenty of places where there's firmware you won't expect (management engine, embedded controllers, network controllers, wifi controllers, ...) and you'll have to lock all of those down, too...</p>

9415

2018-07-03T05:14:17.557

|hard-disk|

<p>I'm looking to build a robust system for malware research purposes and this is a requirement so I can absolutely trust that the system is clean on a reformat. Mobo firmware is locked down too of course and I already have a candidate for that but it's really really hard to find one for HDD. Likewise, I will never insert USB devices on this one (rolling full PS/2).</p>

Are there any HDD whose firmware can never be updated still being sold these days?

<p>Switch emulation isn't quite a thing yet, but Nintendo has always been pretty emulation-friendly as far as minimum requirements. </p> <p>Your target software is probably the Dolphin emulator, since it covers a breadth of Nintendo emulators. NES, GB, GBC, and SNES (including SGB adaptation) are simple emulation on any modern machine, and it won't really matter what you have. I wouldn't recommend less than an i5 processor for N64, GBA, or 3DS. A 1050Ti should be just fine as far as video card here. </p> <p>When you get into the GC, Wii, and Wii-U, you're going to need more RAM. An i7 or higher-end AMD processor wouldn't be a bad idea, either. Emulating these systems is significantly more demanding and usually has hooks that make use of your hardware a bit more instead of just isolated emulation. I got almost flawless performance in all games up through the GC and some Wii games on an i7-2600k with 16GB of RAM and a GTX 760, so your hardware picks should still be fine. </p> <p>Seeing as you can get an i7 for not much more than an i5 these days, I'd definitely go that route. </p>

9431

2018-07-07T14:07:52.943

|processor|gaming|

<p>So, my friend wants to start gaming. He told me he is really interested to try Nintendo games, but he doesn't have a specific console in mind. I suggested he should just get a PC, so that he has access to way more games. I visited <a href="https://www.emulator-zone.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="The Emulator Zone">The Emulator Zone </a> and took a look at the Nintendo console emulators. They didn't seem all that difficult to run, but I'm not that knowledgeable about emulation. The PC needs to be able to emulate all Nintendo consoles.</p> <p>The target resolution is 1080p with a frame rate of 30FPS. I'll probably give him my graphics card (Gigabyte 1050Ti Windforce OC) after I upgrade. The only component I need help with is the processor. </p> <p>Do you have any recommendations on what CPU he should get to be able to run the aforementioned emulators with no problems? We haven't set a specific budget, so feel free to mention even a relatively expensive processor. (As always the cheaper the better)</p>

CPU for Nintendo Emulation

<p>I think your problem is probably more price range than anything else. The touchscreen monitor is the expense, and takes up a large portion of your budget. <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B07586J8P7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">For instance, this one takes up half your budget, and it's an inexpensive option by your requirements.</a> Another one <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007948V24" rel="nofollow noreferrer">takes up much more.</a></p> <p>Windows 8 - 10 has the ability to run as a Kiosk, and you can find some <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-AEZUJx9Bg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tutorials to teach you how to set it up that way.</a> This will handle your worries about user access. </p> <p>You may wish to consider the less expensive option of using <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QR_code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">QR Codes</a>. QR codes next to your product allows anyone with a smartphone that can read a barcode (which is pretty much all of them) to auto-link to a website of your choosing. Ideally, this is your website that has been programmed, made adaptive to mobile, and hosted for you, to which your in-store screens would probably have been pointing, anyway. This gives you less to maintain, less up-front expense, and when bored children start playing with screens, it will be their own screens or those of their parents and not your expensive product terminals. </p>

9436

2018-07-09T10:06:54.187

|touchscreen|touchpad|

<p>I'm looking for a cheap solution that provides the following:</p> <p>I would like to have that the customers can swap through our range of products in the local store and when they want to know more of a product, they can click on it and more information will be provided. Hence, a video/trailer to implement would also be nice. A regular windows OS could be do it but I don't want the customers to go into settings and so on by accident. </p> <p>Size screen is probably ok when >=15". Is there any hardware (and/or combined with software) which fulfills this? Let it be something around 100-200 €.</p>

touch screen / terminal / computer for customers

<p>I Think you're looking for something like one of the following:</p> <p>1) <strong>TP-Link M7350 Mobile Router</strong> </p> <p>2) <strong>Huawei E5577</strong> </p> <p><strong><em>Bonus:</em></strong> If you're not on a tight budget here's one of my favorites the <strong>Netgear AC810-100</strong>.</p> <p>Hope this helps.</p>

9453

2018-07-13T21:53:58.397

|router|mobile-phone|

<p>I bought a sim card from an mobile provider, and I can use it as a hotspot, using my cellphone. So, I can make my cellphone into a hotspot router, using this sim card. Do you have some recommendations on which router (a proper piece of hardware, not a cellphone) would work with 4G sim card, as a hotspot router? The 4G+ is written on the provider's site, if I find more info on bands I will have them written here.</p>

Is it possible to make a router with 4G out of a sim card, and how?

<p>The <strong>PCx-xxxxx</strong> stand for:</p> <ul> <li><strong>PC3</strong> (<em>DDR3</em>) --> RAM Type</li> <li><strong>xxxxx</strong> --> BUS max transmission data rate (per channel)</li> </ul> <p>Answering your question, the <strong><em>PC3-12800</em></strong> has a max trans. rate of <strong>12,8GB/s</strong>, on the other hand, the <strong><em>PC3-14900</em></strong> has a transmission rate of <strong>14,9GB/s</strong></p> <p>With that being said, it goes down only on your choice/budget and on your need.</p> <p>If you're planning to use virtualization software, light gaming or more generally "RAM-eater" software (i.e. Audio/Video/Photo Editing...), I will go for the PC-14900, BUT if you're going to upgrade your ram because you're going short on the number of programs you can open at the same time, take this a personal thought, I will go with the PC-12800 one...</p> <p>Hope this clears your doubt.</p>

9466

2018-07-17T07:38:18.720

|memory|

<p>Currently, I have 5.7 GB of memory (RAM) on my Lenovo V570 laptop running Ubuntu 18.04 LTS. I popped the hood and I see and a 4 GB and a 2 GB chip.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W71XX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W71XX.jpg" alt="A 2 GB RAM in the front and 4 GB RAM in the back"></a></p> <p>I did some research and found out there I might have some options to chose from.</p> <ol> <li>Corsair CMSO8GX3M1A1333C9 8GB 1X8GB DDR3-1333MHZ CL9-9-9-24 204PIN SODIMM Memory Kit (<a href="https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-C-E-K-M-N-and-V-Series/V570-upgrade-to-16gb-of-ram-successful/td-p/696025" rel="nofollow noreferrer">source</a>).</li> <li>Crucial RAM options (<a href="http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/Lenovo/ideapad-v570" rel="nofollow noreferrer">source</a>)</li> </ol> <p>Based on the claims made in the Lenovo forums <a href="https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-C-E-K-M-N-and-V-Series/V570-upgrade-to-16gb-of-ram-successful/td-p/696025" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post</a>, I am assuming that I can install 16 GB of max RAM on my laptop.</p> <p>My Board:</p> <pre><code>Physical Memory Array Location: System Board Or Motherboard Use: System Memory Error Correction Type: None Maximum Capacity: 16 GB Error Information Handle: Not Provided Number Of Devices: 4 </code></pre> <p>4 GB RAM</p> <pre><code>Memory Device Array Handle: 0x0034 Error Information Handle: Not Provided Total Width: 64 bits Data Width: 64 bits Size: 4096 MB Form Factor: SODIMM Set: None Locator: ChannelA-DIMM0 Bank Locator: BANK 0 Type: DDR3 Type Detail: Synchronous Speed: 1333 MT/s Manufacturer: Samsung Serial Number: 005001BA Asset Tag: 9876543210 Part Number: M471B5273CH0-CH9 Rank: Unknown </code></pre> <p>2 GB RAM</p> <pre><code>Handle 0x0039, DMI type 17, 28 bytes Memory Device Array Handle: 0x0034 Error Information Handle: Not Provided Total Width: 64 bits Data Width: 64 bits Size: 2048 MB Form Factor: SODIMM Set: None Locator: ChannelB-DIMM0 Bank Locator: BANK 2 Type: DDR3 Type Detail: Synchronous Speed: 1333 MT/s Manufacturer: Samsung Serial Number: ***** censored *** Asset Tag: 9876543210 Part Number: M471B5773CHS-CH9 Rank: Unknown </code></pre> <p><strong>My question is:</strong></p> <p>What is the difference between DDR3 PC3-12800 and DDR3 PC3-14900? And most importantly, how do I find which one to use for my laptop?</p>

Lenovo V570 RAM Upgrade

<h1>Get a passive Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cable, like <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0134V3KIA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a></h1> <p>As SiXandSeven8ths mentioned, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#DisplayPort_Dual-Mode_(DP++)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DisplayPort++ (also known as Dual Mode)</a> is a technology that allows DisplayPort to put out another signal for use with passive adapters. While limited because of this unidirectionality, it's an incredibly cheap, easy, and effective solution for what you're trying to do. Though it's difficult to confirm with your third laptop, almost all laptops with Mini DisplayPort support this mode because of its extreme popularity and utility–even when not indicated, like on the XPS 13.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEotO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEotO.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>One thing worth noting is the Thunderbolt 3 connection on your third laptop. Thunderbolt 3 (and USB-C, which can also carry a DisplayPort connection) cannot utilize DisplayPort++ because it lacks the necessary pin count to do so.</p> <p>While your solution of using a USB to VGA graphics adapter works, I would advise against this in the future. VGA is a much more limited connection, namely in that it is an analog rather than a digital signal.</p>

9469

2018-07-17T18:56:30.617

|usb|hdmi|display-port|adapter|

<p>I am a bit lost on what adapters and cables I need for connecting a second external monitor to my laptops.</p> <p>I already have an external HDMI monitor. All my three laptops have HDMI ports with which I am able to use this external monitor (using HDMI male-to-male cable). I want to connect one more HDMI monitor now as a second external display (ideally to any of my three laptops). All three laptops run Windows 10.</p> <p>All three laptops have multiple USB 3.0 (SS) ports. They all have mini display ports (I believe I am using the correct term) as well, but one of them seems to have a different kind. Please see images below.</p> <p>Laptop 1: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TW2T0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TW2T0.jpg" alt="Laptop 1"></a> The port on the left above is what I think is the mini display port.</p> <p>Laptop 2: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6CEEt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6CEEt.jpg" alt="Laptop 2"></a> This laptop has the same kind of display port as laptop 1.</p> <p>Laptop 3: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQEPY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQEPY.jpg" alt="Laptop 3"></a></p> <p>I am not sure if the left most port in this image is the same as the left most ports in above two. It doesn't have the two + symbols like the ones above have. Is it the same as the ports in the first two laptops?</p> <p>Not realizing that I have these mini display ports, I purchased "Plugable USB 3.0 to DisplayPort 4K UHD" from Amazon (for $60), which has a male USB 3.0 and a female full-sized Display port. I believe that I now need a display port to HDMI adapter to connect to the external monitor. Would it be better to return this adapter and purchase a different one?</p> <hr> <p>UPDATE: I don't really need HDMI for my second external monitor, since it also has a VGA port. I ended up purchasing a USB 3.0 to VGA adapter, which costs only $16. All my laptops have at least one spare SS port, so I am good now.</p>

Cable recommendation for HDMI display

<p>You need something like <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/cty/pdp/spd/inspiron-22-3277-aio/fdcw22ipun104s?cid=310435&amp;st=&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuKm5wI-r3AIV1jaBCh1WdA6JEAQYAyABEgLRlPD_BwE&amp;lid=5860376&amp;VEN1=snajNacpJ,183144151912,901pdb6671,c,,FDCW22IPUN104S&amp;VEN2=,&amp;dgc=st&amp;dgseg=dhs&amp;acd=1230980731501410&amp;VEN3=235204297008936848" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, where the computer is an all-in-one unit. This pricing isn't too bad considering what it is, and you don't have a ton of options. Note that it doesn't have video inputs for the monitor portion of the unit, so it does not classify as a television. This model also has a touch-screen, so no need for a keyboard and mouse. </p>

9479

2018-07-19T11:53:33.047

|monitors|video|

<p>Can someone recommend a monitor that can play video files straight from an external hard drive, preferably along a USB to USB connection and preferably in various formats (certainly including .mp4, preferably also .flv and .mkv), and that does not need also to be connected to the internet or a laptop or use wifi. Ideally I would like something that does not receive any kind of TV signal and therefore does not require a TV licence to keep. I realise a CPU is required in order to stream the file to the monitor, but I'm wondering whether you can get this built into the box with the monitor and without requiring a separate third device.</p> <p>To summarise: I need a screen that I can put on the wall so that when I want to watch one of the films I've got on an external drive, I can throw a USB cable from the external drive to the monitor, throw an audio cable from the monitor to some speakers, and sit back and watch the film. (And I don't want to watch TV or do anything on the internet or using wireless.)</p>

Monitor that can play video files straight from external hard drive, without internet or wifi?

<p>The <a href="https://www.replicant.us/supported-devices.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Replicant project</a> aims at creating a completely free, non-proprietary build of Android for certain devices. They still do have wireless radios, but using them requires non-free firmware, which Replicant doesn't provide. Effectively, the device cannot communicate wirelessly. For example Samsung Galaxy Nexus is supported, but without working WiFi and Bluetooth. Just remove SIM card and cellular radio will also be useless.</p>

9488

2018-07-20T12:19:14.723

|security|smart-device|mobile-workstation|

<p>I am looking for a small mobile device to display a list of sensitive information. </p> <p>The storage of the device must be encryptable and the user must first enter a PIN to decrypt the storage at boot time and second enter a PIN to authenticate himself in order to use the device.</p> <p>The size of the device can be up to common tablet size (~10,5''), but the smaller the better.</p> <p>Moreover, the device must own no wireless interfaces to reduce the possible attack surface. As a consequence it is only possible to I/O with the device via a wired interface (which should be a common type, e.g. USB).</p> <p>For the usage, the device should provide a touch screen, but this is not mandatory. Another kind of user interface interaction would also be ok.</p> <p>Budget does not play a role.</p> <hr> <p>Background to this is as follows: I already tried to realize this via a Samsung Galaxy Tab S2 (gts28vewifi aka SM-T713) for which I have modified the LineageOS sources and build a custom variant that does not have WIFI and BT. But I failed as the device restarts after some time during the boot. <em>Most likely this is because the WIFI system is not found or some related consequences caused by removing WIFI and BT from the build.</em></p> <p>Thank you for your tips and suggestions. If more information is necessary or I forgot something important, I will edit my question, of course. Maybe there is another possibility to satisfy those requirements I am not aware of at the moment :)</p>

Mobile device without a wireless interface to store sensitive informations

<p>My personal experience is based on WD EX4 with 4 WD 7200rpm 4TB disks in RAID5. Yes, there is noise. Especially when I run some task on the NAS itself (downloading, extracting huge archive, export a lot of images, copy huge amount of information). But even with such noise I have no problem to sleep in the next room (with open door between the rooms). Of course the sensitivity to such noise is something very personal, but my opinion is it's not a problem.</p> <p>BTW enterprise grade HDD are much more noisy (they are created for reliability) and I will not advise to add such disks in home NAS.</p>

9503

2018-07-22T10:32:58.457

|ssd|nas|

<p>I am going to purchase a Synology DiskStation 218+ for home usage. Now, this will be physically located in my apartment and I am fearing that the rattle of two SATA HDD will be disturbing.</p> <p>The NAS will not be used constantly, but only from time to time as of the situation is right now. I think I think the required diskspace will be about 2 TB (RAID1). So looking at the compatibility list on Synologys website, the SSD drives there are quite expensive (2TB drives goes for about 450-900 USD, tax included converted from SEK). This sounds quite expensive and I am not sure if my nights sleep is worth this much.</p> <p>So now I am wondering two things:</p> <ul> <li>Is it possible to buy SSD drives that not is on the compatibility list?</li> <li>Does anyone have an opinion on the sound, is having regular 3.5" SATA going to be annoying or is it possible to live with this noise, unless I want to spend 1000-2000 USD on buying SSD drives?</li> </ul> <p>BR Patrik</p>

Is it worth it to buy SSD drives to a Synology DS218+ for home use?

<p>I would wait. FINALLY, it is more than a rumor that a new gaming architecture is coming. nVidia has a talk titled 'NVIDIA’s Next Generation Mainstream GPU' at the HotChips conference next month. Also, they are sending out invites to GamesCon on August 21 for a 'PC related event'. Yes that is a gaming conference. Read about it at <a href="https://www.theverge.com/2018/7/2/17524744/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1180-release-date-launch-rumors" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Verge</a> here.</p> <p>Other than that, if you really cannot wait or think you want to spend the money on the next generation, I would keep a hawk eye out for a 1080 Ti. I have already seen a couple of deals around $750 that disappear quickly. If new hardware really does come out and you keep looking, jump on one that is below your $700 threshold. It will happen</p> <p>1080 Ti would be future proof for you. It will do 60 FPS with all setting on high and 1080P and you can even get 45-60 FPS with most setting high at 4K if you ever go there.</p>

9524

2018-07-28T16:53:48.397

|graphics-cards|

<p>I built a PC not very long ago. <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9YP6q4" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Here">Here</a> are the specs (I have a different case, but I couldn't find the one I own, so I chose a similar one). My 1050Ti is a really good graphics card. It seems to be a great overclocker as well. However, as a huge surprise to no one, it can't get 60FPS in 1080p in ultra settings in AAA titles like GTA 5 as it's a budjet card. I'm looking for a graphics card which will be able to achieve that and maintain it for as long as possible. The 1070Ti looks like an attractive option, however I think it would be better for me to wait for the next generation NVidia cards. An 1160 and an 1170 have been rumored, however the 1160 especially needs to be taken with a grain of salt along with the rumored spcs. Lastly, it is said that NVidia currently are stuck with a large number of graphics cards because of the plummeting demand from miners. Should/Can I take advantage of this? I don't know anything about AMD cards, but that doesn't mean I won't accept an AMD card suggestion. My budjet is around 600-700$ Thanks!</p>

Graphics Card Upgrade

<p>The real question is:</p> <p><strong>What do you need it for?</strong></p> <h1><strong>CPU</strong></h1> <p>I wouldn't really care about the processor, as long as you don't do anything requiring an intensive processing power. </p> <p>You can find a lot of cpu comparing sites by searching on any search engine "cpu compare" or "cpu benchmark".</p> <h1>Storage</h1> <p>The SSD will gargantuanly benefit the performance. The computer will start faster, the programs will start faster, everything will be faster. But with 250GB you may not have enough space, depending on what you do. Do you store photos, videos and bigger files on your computer or do you use cloud services? If you don't, with time you may run out of space without an external hard disk. Meanwhile, the 1TB hard disk will give you a lot of space.</p> <p>Also, could you post the specific model of processors in your post? I don't yet have enough reputation to comment.</p> <p><strong>Edit:</strong></p> <p>I've used <a href="http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-7200U-vs-Intel-Core-i5-8250U/m153577vsm338266" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this website</a> and <a href="https://ark.intel.com/it/compare/95443,124967" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel's official catalogue</a> of products for a comparison, take a look as they are very helpful.</p> <p>The main difference between the 2 is the number of cores. The 7th generation one got 2 cores while the 8th generation one got 4 (I'm talking about physical cores, not thread or "virtual" cores). Remember that they are both low-end cores, so you may have problems calculating, as you said in the comments, macros or data in number of millions, with both of the computers. Still on a Windows environment an SSD will be a greater advantage compared to a slower-quad core processor, as Windows is <em>very</em> resource demanding when talking about hard disks speeds (I'm looking at you Cortana).</p>

9534

2018-07-30T06:22:13.063

|processor|ssd|

<p>I need to buy a new laptop and I've been doing my homework for about 3 days now. After going through a lot of laptops, I've found that within my budget and keeping everything else in common (RAM, processor etc.), I'm having to choose between a laptop with 256 GB SSD (SATA) with a Intel Core i5 7th gen chip and a laptop with a 1TB HDD, but with the newer Intel Core i5 8th gen chip.</p> <p>Which one will give me the greatest performance improvement? Going for the Intel Core i5 8th gen chip or the 256 GB SSD?</p>

SSD or Intel Core i5 8250U

<p>The Free Software Foundation has made a list of GNU/Linux compatible hardwares, freely editable by anyone with an account, which can be found here:</p> <p><a href="https://www.fsf.org/resources/hw" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.fsf.org/resources/hw</a></p> <p>Then after going to that website go to H-node's search (H-node is the directory of FOSS hardware):</p> <p><a href="https://h-node.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://h-node.org/</a></p> <p>And go to scanners category:</p> <p><a href="https://h-node.org/scanners/catalogue/en" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://h-node.org/scanners/catalogue/en</a></p> <p>As of August 2018, the <a href="https://h-node.org/scanners/catalogue/en/1/1/undef/A-Full/undef/undef/compatibility/undef" rel="nofollow noreferrer">list of scanners with full compatibility with free software</a> has 6 models with commercialization dates between 2002 and 2011.</p> <p>Edit 2022:</p> <p>Definitely also checkout the RYF (Respects Your Freedom) certification by the FSF <a href="https://ryf.fsf.org/products" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://ryf.fsf.org/products</a> . While there aren't any scanners yet, it's a really good cert for libre hardware and new entries will be added in the future.</p>

9542

2018-07-31T10:53:01.740

|linux|scanner|

<p>I want to buy a scanner for my future Linux machine. But I am worried about spyware since scanners bundle third-party proprietary software with the scanner and printer manufacturers already use <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_Identification_Code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">steganography</a>.</p> <p>Does any company sell open-source scanners with the same business model as the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Makerbot#Replicator" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MakerBot Replicator</a>, whose plans were open-source and the company had profits from customers who didn't want to make the 3D printer from scratch?</p>

Open-source linux scanner

<p>As it happens, it turns out that typing out the question was the impetus I needed to properly think about what I was looking for. Turns out the search term I needed to be looking for was <em>"male to female USB cable"</em>, which brings back results for "USB extension cable". I could have sworn I'd already tried searching for the latter, but either way, <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&amp;field-keywords=male+to+female+usb+cable&amp;rh=n%3A560798%2Ck%3Amale+to+female+usb+cable" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon lists several</a>.</p>

9544

2018-07-31T23:51:10.057

|usb|data-storage|cable|

<p>I recently learnt about the <a href="https://deaddrops.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dead Drops project</a>, and have found a few dead drops in my city listed on the database. I want to determine whether these dead drops are still extant, and if they are, connect my laptop to them to see what's on them. However, connecting a wall-mounted flash drive directly into a laptop's USB port is pretty awkward to do. </p> <p>What cables exist out there that could act as an extender for the flash drive, so that one end can be inserted into the drive, and the other into my laptop's USB port so that I can read the contents of the USB drive as normal? This seems a trivially simple piece of hardware, but now that I think about it, I've never heard of anything like this and I don't know what it would be called.</p>

Extender cable to connect USB flash drive to USB port

<p>Having had a very similar use-case, I highly recommend Ubiquiti EdgeMax Routers for managing your network. They are high quality options (with some nice security and resource delegation features) and have many models that support Power Over Ethernet on at least one port. They also work well when establishing the kind of subnets you are talking about. I've used one in combination with my modem to form a gateway for quite some time. Just a couple of $60 models to separate the concerns of managing the two different networks (so that a problem with one doesn't mean a problem with the other) and to allow isolation of the network you don't want reachable by guests would do the trick. This also gives the option of setting up two subnets for your networks if you get three routers, all for under $200 together. They're also usually about the size of a cell phone.</p> <p>I was running this through a mid-range Asus router, but it failed as an AP unless I also allowed it to run its own subnet and function as a router. Even then, reliability was sketchy. I recently replaced it with an Ubiquiti AP-Pro, which supports both bands under one network ID. It has its own software for managing access and has an option for activation and management of a guest network with restrictions as to what guests may do. The unit is weather-resistant and is designed to be wall- or ceiling-mounted if you like, so it's possible to even mount them externally. It also has a second ethernet port for bridging or connecting a computer directly to the wired connection, making it easy to chain multiple across a house instead of setting up a mesh network or configuring the device to repeat a signal and lose bandwidth. I currently use only one of these on my second floor of my 5000 sq ft home; a direct connected device consistently gets nearly 1Gb/s speeds on the internet (which is max 1Gb/s), a wireless-AC connection one floor down usually gets 500Mb/s minimum, and my son's connection across the house never drops below 200Mb/s. The unit cost me about $90 as it connects to the PoE on the router for power, but you can get an injector for about $20 if you need to supply power another way. </p> <p>3x Ubiquiti EdgeMax = $180 (because this gets you DHCP 3x and separates your APs entirely based on network)</p> <p>3x Ubiquiti AC-Pro = $270-340 (depending on power connection and presuming you need more than one due to geography)</p> <p>4x Decent wall Surge Suppressor (if you hook up your units with PoE Injectors instead of normal PoE) = $80</p> <p>Huge spool of Cat5e (6 is a waste for 1Gb and down) = $80</p> <p>Crimping Tool = $30 (because crimping your own cables is infinitely cheaper in the long haul)</p> <p>Ethernet plug headers = $10</p> <p>Total: $650 - $720</p>

9549

2018-08-01T20:20:15.657

|networking|router|access-point|

<p>I'm looking to massively upgrade my home infrastructure. I have multiple wired and wireless devices - desktop computers, laptops, servers, tablets, phones, assistants (Alexa, Google Assistant, etc), game consoles, home automation hardware.</p> <p>My end goal is to have multiple networks. A "safe"/green network for devices I trust (my computers, game consoles) that will be a combination of wired and wireless, a home automation network where the assistants and automation hardware will live that will need a single wired port and the rest will be wireless, a DMZ where the servers will live that will be all wired access and a guest wireless network that will be all wireless access. The devices that can control the home automation will probably live on that specific network as well due to how the automation devices work.</p> <p>I'd like a router (with possible additional access points) to cover the entire house and a bit of the yard. This is roughly 4000 square feet across two levels. </p> <p>I do not want to build a Linux based router for this. I understand that such distributions exist. I'm not interested in that. I want a single device (router) and possibly complimentary access points where I just need to configure things.</p> <p>Additional nice to haves:</p> <ul> <li>Wireless that operates on both 2.4 and 5Ghz frequencies. </li> <li>Ability to open and close access between the various networks. For example, a firewall hole between the "green" network and the DMZ for SSH access or preventing the guest network from communicating communicating with any of the other three networks.</li> <li>Intuitive user interface for configuring all of this.</li> <li>DHCP server for each network, with different IP ranges.</li> </ul> <p>I'm guessing the budget for this router and an access point or two that can handle all of this will be less than $1,000. </p>

Router that can support multiple wired and wireless networks/vlans

<p>Chromebooks can run Android apps, the problem with that is that you will see more frequent updates of apps and Skype for example is quite big for what it does (~150MB). If you are lucky you may notice that updates get smaller with newer operating systems like Chrome OS, Windows 10 or <a href="https://getfedora.org/en/workstation/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fedora</a> which should be able to use delta compression and only download the new bits. At least Fedora should be able to do that with DeltaRPMs which it uses by default. I don't know how it plays out for flatpak updates or <a href="https://teamsilverblue.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silverblue</a> though. </p>

9550

2018-08-02T01:32:43.280

|laptop|

<p>I currently have a 5 year old HP laptop running Windows 7. I live in a rural area where our internet speeds are 1 MB or less. I am actually able to do skype calls and online video chats with people online even with my poor internet connection (it is very low quality but it works).</p> <p>Windows 7 is starting to get a bit old and I was thinking that it was time to get a new laptop. The first laptop that I got was a HP Stream 15 or 14 inch screen with 4 GB of RAM. I know that it is not a powerful computer, but I mostly just browse the web and use skype. Unfortunately, Windows 10 has such large updates that 100% of my internet connection is always consumed by updates. My DSL modem is running/sending traffic continually. At times, it is very difficult to even get it to load google. The HP Stream has behaved like this even when it was new - so it doesn't have a virus and I installed a virus checker and did a scan to verify that it has no viruses. My Windows 7 laptop does not consume large amounts of bandwidth like the HP Stream. I also tried setting my wifi connection to be metered, but it still consumes all of my available internet bandwidth.</p> <p>The next device that I tried was an Acer Chromebook. I know that skype doesn't run natively on chromebooks, but I found some online browser based video chat websites and tried using one of these (there is also an online version of skype). However, about 10 minutes into the chat, the entire labtop's screen goes black and it crashes.</p> <p>So I've now tried both Windows 10 and Chromebooks. Windows 10 would be fine if it could download multi-gigabyte updates (I've even left my HP Stream on overnight in hopes that it would download the updates, but it is still not done in the morning). Chromebooks would be fine if they didn't crash.</p> <p>What is a good recommendation for a labtop that would work well on a super slow internet connection? Should I look for a new windows 7 labtop? Macs are too expensive for me to try.</p>

Laptop for video conferencing on slow rural internet connection

<p><strong>You should go with the Gigabyte Z370 HD3, since it is the cheapest option meeting your requirements.</strong> However, if your configuration requires a lot of RAM which you didn't mention, the most expensive option (ASUS configuration) offers 4 slots of RAM. According to <a href="https://ark.intel.com/products/126685/Intel-Core-i5-8600K-Processor-9M-Cache-up-to-4_30-GHz" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the intel spec sheet for the i5-8600k</a>, the maximum supported memory per slot is 32 gb. It's up to you whether you feel you will need more than 32gb of RAM in the future.</p> <p>It's worth mentioning the GIGABYTE option has 2 m.2 SATA slots meaning you could potentially have two m.2 sata SSDs (The Samsung 970 Evo's are an affordable high performance option.)</p> <p><strong>Other recommendations</strong></p> <p>I took the liberty of checking your location on your Stack exchange profile which states you are from Montenegro, and a cursory google search tells me that you are not officially a part of the EU. This makes recommending you specific hardware not subject to additional shipping or tax import costs very difficult, however; <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=30&amp;X=0,100000&amp;J=0&amp;K=1,10&amp;E=1,4&amp;N=4,16&amp;T=2048,65536&amp;L=4&amp;h=1,8&amp;sort=price&amp;xcx=0&amp;a=1,5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here is an exhaustive list from pc part picker sorted by price that meets or exceeds your stated requirements</a>. You can cross-check the prices you find there with your local purveyors. The site will also let you double check your builds for compatibility.</p>

9564

2018-08-03T12:45:51.930

|graphics-cards|processor|motherboard|cooling|

<p>I have checked a few questions here regarding the GPU and bought the 1080Ti. Now I am trying to figure out the rest of the configuration and it should be below 1000$.</p> <p>I have seen that <code>i5-8600K</code> sounds like a good option and I would like to go with 8th generation. However, now I am stuck with choosing the appropriate motherboard and cooling units.</p> <p>In my country I have available: <code>GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS GAMING 3 REV.1.0</code> and <code>ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-H GAMING</code> which i have available for <code>230$</code> and <code>280$</code> respectively. </p> <p>I am also considering <code>Gigabyte Z370 HD3</code> which is a cheaper option <code>150$</code>.</p> <p>Please note, that I do not need anything shiny (RGB LEDs etc.) but single PCI x16 is required. On top of this, I will need a suggestion for cooling.</p> <p>Also, it would be great if someone could tell me which boards play nicely with Linux (Ubuntu).</p> <p>Any suggestions are more than welcome, even which brand seems better to you.</p>

Deep Learning Hardware (PC/Ubuntu)

<p>If you're going to spending all your time in the command line, I don't imagine you're going to be needing all that much processing power, or even a dedicated graphics card. I looked up your TF101 tablet and it looks like you were happy with the performance you got out of a 1 gb of RAM and a tablet processor. To maximize battery life, I've recommended 2 4-cell Li-ion battery equipped laptops and a 6 cell li-ion battery. All laptops have 4 gb of RAM. Each laptop is an 11.6" laptop, about an inch and a half larger than your old tablet.</p> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1TS-000X-00JK4R" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer Laptop TravelMate $161.99 + $2.99 shipping</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c4CAh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c4CAh.jpg" alt="TMB117-MP-C2G3"></a></p> <p>This is the cheapest laptop that meets and exceeds the performance of you old system.</p> <ul> <li>3.09 lbs.</li> <li>32 gb Flash storage</li> <li>Celeron N3060</li> <li>4 cell Li-ion battery</li> </ul> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC8878S6051" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer Spin 1 $189.95</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFb4D.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFb4D.png" alt="SP111-31-C2W3"></a></p> <p>Get this if you want something that feels more like the tablet you used to have. This is one of the 360 laptops that can turn into a tablet but also has a keyboard. Slightly heavier than option 1.</p> <ul> <li>3.31 lbs.</li> <li>32 gb Flash storage</li> <li>Celeron N3350</li> <li>4 cell Li-ion battery</li> </ul> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834264570" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Laptop EliteBook Revolve 810 G2 $377.01 + 3.99 shipping</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMjUf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMjUf.jpg" alt="Revolve 810 G2"></a></p> <p>This laptop is like option 2, but it's monitor can spin 360° on its axis in two directions. This option has a lot more storage and a significantly better CPU. Consider this option if you have the money.</p> <ul> <li>3.08 lb</li> <li>128 GB SSD</li> <li>i5-4300 U</li> <li>6 cell Li-ion battery</li> </ul>

9571

2018-08-04T10:39:24.713

|laptop|linux|

<p>I don't know if this is a weird question, but here it goes: I would like a laptop without a GUI. I want to exclusively use the command line. I want to install Linux in it. The laptop should be small, 14" tops. It should have an excellent battery life, and good wifi. Hopefully, the hardware will be supported natively, without binary blobs.</p> <p>I have a Asus Transformer TF101. I installed Archlinux in it. It was a permanent "work in progress". I really liked the small form factor, and the battery lasted forever (given the fact that I had 2 batteries when using the keyboard attachment). But it died on me.</p> <p>I'm not a masochist. I read Brian Lunduke's article. But I feel the GUI takes focus away. I want to use it mainly to write code (using VIM) while commuting. Listening to music (with cmus or mpv). Email (with alpine or mutt) and text based web browsing (with lynx and/or w3m). I want something that doesn't weight too much, while at it.</p> <p>Any suggestions?</p>

Small laptop for command line use

<p>If your load is 470W, then even at 110V (worst-case scenario), you are using 4.3A. According to <a href="http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/1c/02/e5/medium/0900c152801c02e5.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the AutoZone guide</a>, even at the thinnest (18AWG) wire, you can run 13 Amps through it (which is >3 times what you are using), and having it heat only to 150°F. Therefore, you can run the 18AWG wire without any problems.</p> <p>In general, when asking this, you should include the length of the power cable, and the temperature you'll use it in -- as it makes a huge difference. For example, I had a 24AWG cable that could handle ~150A at below freezing, which is ~35 times as much as your scenario -- precisely because it is only a couple inches long. One time I used it at above a freezing temperature, and it melted the isolation off of it.</p>

9575

2018-08-05T01:44:16.477

|pc|monitors|power-supply|

<p>I am using <a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply</a> for my <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tg48WX" rel="nofollow noreferrer">current build</a>, and my load seems to be 470W. For my computer monitors, I am using <a href="https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/solutions/pd021682" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo LT2452P</a>. So, I need one power cord for PC and one for the monitor.</p> <p>Questions:</p> <ol> <li>I am trying to determine between 18/16/14 AWG which power supplies do I need for my PC and my monitor.</li> <li>I already have some power cords, but how could I determine what AWG do they have?</li> </ol>

Recommended AWG for my power cord

<h3>Another option is to roll your own.</h3> <p>Inspired by a series of articles by Jim Salter on Ars Technica about building a <a href="https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/the-router-rumble-ars-diy-build-faces-better-tests-tougher-competition/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Homebrew router</a>, we moved routing functionality of our network onto our application server and it has been working well.</p> <h3>Hardware</h3> <p>The server itself is Dell R220 (shallow 1U) with a four Ethernet ports. Our main network is plugged into one port, our DSL modem into another, and our cable modem into another, leaving us a spare port for network link aggregation later if necessary. We even have a DMZ machine for one of the modems attached via a VLAN.</p> <p>The server cost us less than $150 including shipping and is obviously old, but serviceable server grade kit with ECC memory rather than a built-to-a-price-point mini PC with restricted CPU performance (and power consumption). Any free server on your network with enough Ethernet ports may be suitable instead though.</p> <h3>Software</h3> <p>We run <a href="https://www.proxmox.com/en/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Proxmox</a> as the host operating system (ZFS root pool for the win), then run <a href="https://opnsense.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OPNsense</a> in a virtual machine as our router, with the modem Ethernet ports &amp; DMZ VLAN only being accessible from within the VM.</p> <p>We also run all of our Docker instances on this machine, so it would be powered on 24/7 anyway, and the extra load of the router VM is relatively small, even when maxing out internet use.</p> <hr> <p>This solution is one I would consider for any network that is any more complex than a simple one-line one-modem/router combination.</p>

9583

2018-08-06T01:53:29.313

|networking|router|internet-of-things|

<p>(Yes, I’ve seen <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/q/9296/9630">this question</a> which is very similar, however my specs include the word gigabit. Also the only current answer to that question was written by someone that didn’t understand the meaning of “dual-WAN” and made an incorrect assumption about its meaning.)</p> <p>I’m looking for a gigabit multi-WAN (or dual-WAN) Router for use in an automatic failover application. I have a problematic cable connection which fails several times a month. With my current level of home automation I can simply no longer accept that failure.</p> <p>The cable modem is already a separate device (i.e. not an all-in-one combo device). I have also already purchased a Netgear LB2120 4G cellular modem, which was supposed to also handle the failover routing (oddly the cable company blocks the device as a failover router, I can use it as a modem behind another router tho). LB2120 also has no means of external configuration. At the moment switching internet connections is as manual as walking in and swapping plugs, which doesn’t work if I’m not home.</p> <p>I’ve also already tried purchasing, and recently returned to vendor, <a href="https://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-4910_TL-ER5120.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TP-Link TL-ER5120 v3</a> which should have solved the problem, but doesn’t because it has an odd firmware bug which seems to block ports on the local network. (Specifically in testing port 3389–I suspect many others). There is a bizarre long email chain with TP-link support where the initial entry level support associate validates my claim “in the lab”. She passes the case to “senior level support” who consistently argues there is no problem found, and continues “coaching” me on setup. There are several really odd things that make me suspect about the “senior” techs understanding of his job, he insists: Static IP (not DHCP reservation) must be used, he also insists the client end (not the server end) be assigned the static IP, and finally he admits he is not using 5120 v3 but an older 6120 model that is “very similar” to mine. He consistently tells me I don’t understand what to do, that I’m not following his instructions (even though I tried it his way and sent screenshots proving that I did). There is also now <a href="https://community.tp-link.com/en/business/forum/topic/150043?page=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">another user in the TP-link public forum same complaint</a></p> <p>Requirements include: </p> <ul> <li><p>Gigabit router, Multi or dual WAN with load balance/failover configurable options.</p></li> <li><p>DHCP server, with reservations</p></li> <li><p>Port Forwarding (i.e. opening an external port pointing to a specific internal IP and port).</p></li> <li><p>No WiFi required (I already have a wired dual band AP in a centrally located position that provides excellent WiFi coverage).</p></li> <li><p>not Enterprise level pricing (I can find this router many times over for $900+, however hardly any under $200, and only about one under $100).</p></li> <li><p>~50 clients connected between a mix of wired and WiFi (but any gigabit router should handle that).</p></li> <li><p>configureable remote access (I shouldn’t actually need, but the fact the the Netgear LB-2120 has none exposes the potential need)</p></li> </ul> <p>So to further reiterate, this router must have the ability to handle at least two internet (WAN) connections, one primary and one failover.</p> <p><strong>Edit 2020-05-30</strong>: (this question has gotten a lot of attention just lately). As indicated in the comments to the marked answer, two year ago I purchased the Ubiquiti ER-X. I was very happy with the choice, however 2 years later, I’ve just recently upgraded to the ER-12. The three elements that factored into the upgrade. 1) primary internet was upgraded to 1000Mbps (the ER-X didn’t perform well, even with hwnat enabled). 2) the router was running a VPN which was rarely used but slow for streaming video 3) the added hardwire ethernet jacks allowed me to eliminate a switch. Configuration and scripts transferred almost without modifications.</p>

Multi-WAN gigabit Router

<p>I use the following Color Ink Jet printer for printing my color and B&amp;W 11" x 17" CAD drawings: HP DESKJET 1220C PARALLEL USB PRINTER While this is not a laser printer its prints are of good quality.</p> <p>There is currently one for sale on eBay for $125 plus shipping. <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-DESKJET-1220C-PARALLEL-USB-PRINTER-USED/123299758165?epid=1800332047&amp;hash=item1cb53d0055:g:SOoAAOSwNDFba1kR" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-DESKJET-1220C-PARALLEL-USB-PRINTER-USED/123299758165?epid=1800332047&amp;hash=item1cb53d0055:g:SOoAAOSwNDFba1kR</a> </p> <p>Best regards, Bob</p>

9598

2018-08-08T13:37:59.293

|printer|

<p>I create parts using MasterCam software (<a href="https://www.mastercam.com/en-us/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.mastercam.com/en-us/</a>). Essentially this is CAD/CAM software and I would like to buy a better printer than the one I have. I dont need a plotter.</p> <p>Here are my requirements:</p> <p>Minimum: - 11x17 - Laser - Ability to print higher detail</p> <p>Preferred: Color</p> <p>My budget is less than $1,000.</p>

Printer Recommendation for CAD drawings

<p>It seems you were correct about laptops being more expensive in Sweden. As far as I could surmise it appears it will be cheaper to order a laptop from the USA and pay for international shipping. I seems that Sweden doesn't charge any import fees or VAT as far as I can tell. You also ask:</p> <blockquote> <p>What would save a 'considerable' amount - buying from the provider with above features preconfigured or simply buy the hardware without OS(bare metal) and then install RHEL by myself? </p> </blockquote> <p>There's a third option, buy hardware that already comes with an OS (most system do) and then install RHEL yourself. The procedure is identical even if it came without an OS.</p> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/se/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA0S6XD1194&amp;ignorebbr=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI GL62M 11,944.84 kr + 306.50 kr international shipping</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxQoA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxQoA.jpg" alt="GL62M"></a></p> <p>Comes right out of the box with 32 gb of RAM. Unfortunately, this laptop is not capable of an upgrade up to 64 gb of RAM, despite the i7-7700 HQ being capable supporting 64 GB of ram over 2 slots. Also if you're wondering about the powerful discrete graphics card, laptop manufacturers catering to this level of RAM capacity usually end up being gaming capable laptop purveyors where this is standard. This just so happened to be the cheapest laptop I could find. Perhaps if you use your Red Hat linux system for video rendering this may be more useful. MSI doesn't sell laptops directly.</p> <ul> <li>i7-7700 HQ</li> <li>32 GB 2400 DDR4</li> <li>250 GB Samsung 960 EVO NVMe + 1 TB HDD</li> <li>NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 2 GB</li> </ul> <h2><a href="https://www.newegg.com/global/se/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7AB6JU9092" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo ThinkPad P51 Workstation 20,580.26 kr + 395.77 kr international shipping</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nar6e.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nar6e.jpg" alt="P51 High Performance Mobile Workstation"></a></p> <p>This option explicitly supports 64 GB of RAM. Most mobile systems don't really support 64 GB RAM upgrades because there isn't really a market for gratuitously expansive memory in laptops, as most people would purchase a non-mobile desktop/server system for the average user case scenario (hosting, servers, etc.). If you are thinking about 64 GB of RAM in the future, I would advise explicitly buying a 64 GB supported laptop out of the box as it is likely most laptops will only have 2 slots for memory meaning an upgrade will be a full replacement, as you won't be able to add to your existing memory infrastructure. Effectively, you will need to buy 2 32 GB memory sticks which will cost you in the ballpark of 1793.59 - 3587.18 kr. If you try and skimp on RAM costs, it is also likely you will buy poor latency (Higher CAS latency values) RAM, which will have inferior timings and therefore more delay. If you want to purchase a <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P51/p/22TP2WPWP51" rel="nofollow noreferrer">configurable system from the manufacturer here's a link.</a></p> <ul> <li>i7-7700 HQ</li> <li>64 GB 2400 DDR4</li> <li>128 GB SSD + 1 TB HDD</li> <li>NVIDIA Quadro M1200M</li> </ul> <hr> <p>Edit: Dell precision series response (link was too long to fit in a comment). <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/workstations-isv-certified-dell/precision-7720/spd/precision-17-7720-laptop/xctop772017_us_sapp_4?selectionState=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" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This is the cheapest (purchasing directly from manufacturer) precision series laptop configuration that supports 64 GB of RAM</a>. It will cost you 38,076.75 Kr, and isn't a very good deal.</p>

9603

2018-08-09T08:34:44.830

|laptop|

<p>I am a novice when it comes to hardware world. If this is not the appropriate site, I request the moderators to redirect me to the correct one and close this question :).</p> <p>My objectives pertaining to the laptop:</p> <p>Only ONE os - RHEL(enterprise or developer, I haven't decided). Dell laptops come loaded with Ubuntu and are 'RHEL certified'. I didn't understand what they meant, also, I want only RHEL, to begin with.</p> <p>What would save a 'considerable' amount - buying from the provider with above features preconfigured or simply buy the hardware without OS(bare metal) and then install RHEL by myself? If there isn't much difference, I would prefer to buy from the provider.</p> <p>Configuration to suit development needs:</p> <ol> <li>16-32 GB RAM</li> <li>1+TB SSD</li> <li>i7/AMD equivalent</li> <li>Motherboard that can handle all the above</li> <li>Possibility to add RAM, in the future</li> </ol>

RHEL developer laptop with customized hardware - how to proceed?

<p>The only way to find out if the operating system you want will work on that hardware is to try it out. I'm guessing that the reason you're asking this question in the first place is because you want to save money on hardware and this server you found (used, maybe?) looks too good to be true. As with most things in life, it probably is. </p> <p>The main issues that I can think of with this kind of hardware are power draw, noise, and graphics. Even if it seems like you're getting a great deal, you might end up spending more money in electrical bills over the course of the time you own the server than you would if you just bought a new, energy-efficient desktop. Additionally, the cooling for server-oriented machines is designed to get maximum airflow and dissipate the most heat, without any regards for noise level. If you use the machine near where you're working with it (as with most desktop deployments), you probably won't like how loud it will be. Finally, if you think about how most server-class machines are used, graphics is not too important. Most servers run headless (without a monitor) and so do no graphics whatsoever. If you can stand the other two annoyances, the lack of modern-ish graphics might be a deal-breaker if you intend to run a graphics-intensive operating system like Windows. </p>

9614

2018-08-10T16:29:48.880

|server|windows|

<p>Recently I found a 'Win SBS Prem 2003 1-2CPU 5-CAL' server. It's fully operational and appears to have adequate hardware (64 GB ram, 2 Intel Xeon CPU's, 1Tb hard drive). It runs Windows Small Business Server 2003. My question is if I could run Windows 10 on it or upgrade to a more functional software. I thought of booting from an external drive, but there really isn't any information online which tells me how to do that. My concern is that the hardware might not be compatible.</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

Can I use a 2003 server as a desktop computer? (See desc.)

<p>Lightning is <a href="http://lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a hard problem</a>. </p> <p>I'd love to say there's a slick little product you can "Amazon and it's done", but not all problems can be solved that way (plus, other answerers are already doing that.) That said, I promise there'll be some products mentioned.</p> <p><strong>On the high side of the transformer:</strong> Transformers are pretty good surge suppressors, so suppressing surges on the "high" side of the transformer helps a lot. Power distribution lines (the big 2400V lines that are the top row) have a couple defenses. First, a <strong>"top wire"</strong> <a href="https://www.nemaarresters.org/lightning-proof-distribution-line/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">(OHGW)</a> that is set <strong>above</strong> the 3 bare conductors - its job is to catch the lightning bolt instead of the conductors. Second, a <a href="https://oppdthewire.com/lightning-arresters/" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>lightning arrestor <em>device</em></strong></a> connecting each conductor to ground. It has an engineered gap - wide enough to stop 2400V from arcing to ground, but still allow lightning to leap to ground. These can wear out/burn up from strikes, and leave too-wide a gap to be effective. <em>You can't do anything about this stuff</em>. But you can walk your neighborhood distribution lines (on the high side of your transformer) and see if Duke has installed them, and shout a lot if they haven't. </p> <p><strong>Make sure your house's grounding/earthing is tip-top</strong>. I realize you're a renter and <em>can't do this</em>. But <a href="https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/electrical/house-ground-wires/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">correct, modern grounding</a> is an absolute requirement for some surge suppression systems to work, and certainly to qualify for any "power strip warranties". Surge suppressors <em>need</em> ground as a place to dump the surges! All electricity wants to return to <em>source</em>, and natural electricity's (lightning) source is <em>the earth</em>. If you can't make your house's grounding tip-top, don't bother with surge suppressing power strips or whole-house suppressors. They won't work. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p7dI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p7dI.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><strong>Make sure comms entrances are also grounded</strong>. Code requires that your cable TV, phone/DSL etc. lines go through a lightning arrestor on the outside of the house. These arrestors need to be <em>very well grounded</em>, ideally just a few feet away from a ground rod (better: two) going into the earth. A renter might be able to pester the ISP to fit quality surge suppressors on cable/phone. However, if the ground <em>wire</em> is thin, and has to be carried some long distance to get to the ground rod, it's almost a waste of time. </p> <p><strong>Defend against neutral problems</strong>. Problems with neutral can cause voltages that should be 120V to fluctuate wildly between 0 and 240V. However this is easily handled by <strong>auto-ranging switching power supplies</strong> - the kind rated to function on a <em>range</em> of voltage such as 100-264V or 90-306V. They autorange on the fly, and when they get a spike that's <em>below</em> 264V, they just treat it like more usable power. <em>Many products are already this; just make sure yours are.</em> </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtrNe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtrNe.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><strong>A whole-house surge suppressor</strong>. Again a renter can't install this. <a href="https://w3.usa.siemens.com/powerdistribution/us/en/product-portfolio/surge-protection/pages/surge-protection.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Siemens</a>, <a href="http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Electrical/ProductsandServices/PowerQualityandMonitoring/SurgeProtectiveDevices/index.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Eaton</a> etc. are big players in industrial power distribution. They make whole-house surge suppressors. These are hardwired right into the service panel. In some cases they tap the mains, otherwise you hang them off a 60A breaker. </p> <p>If you were hardcore, I suppose you could buy a large metal electrical box, put a cord and strain relief on it, and a whole-house surge suppressor and some sockets. <em>Voilà, the world's biggest baddest surge suppressing power strip</em>. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBwx5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBwx5.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><strong>Air-gap your connectivity</strong>. Lightning can't leap across WiFi. If there's any way to WiFi your connectivity, do it. If you feel you can't, then make sure your demarcation point surge suppression is tip-top, and maybe add some in-house surge suppression too. (but this is pointless if your grounds are rubbish.) </p> <p><strong>Buy quality power supplies</strong>. Since it sounds like you build your gaming rig, don't treat the power supply like an afterthought or buy one for the flashy lights. Buy the best. <strong>Server tier power supplies are not excessive at all</strong>. A good power supply can take a lot of hits, because that's its job. VESA isn't famous for taking surges. Buy ones that are. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2FwG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2FwG.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><strong>An isolation transformer</strong>. Here's something a tenant can do! However these things are massive with an iron core and copper windings. Transformers (like the one on your neighborhood's utility pole) are huge inductors tuned to one frequency: 50 or 60 Hz depending which continent you are on. Like any large inductor, they only like to pass 50/60Hz, so <em>they tend to block spikes and surges</em>. If you have any other lightning arresting in place, that should keep spike voltage low enough that it won't leap the transformer's insulation. Place your equipment on the isolated side of the transformer, and it should see <em>almost no</em> external noise. </p> <p>I am reluctant to say "ground the isolated side of the power supply" if your house's grounds aren't very good. It may be better to leave it an isolated system, except then you'll end up with an islanded ground. I'd fix that with GFCI. Every piece of interconnected equipment needs to be on the isolation, except for modems and routers - otherwise the connecting cords will simply carry the spike around the isolation transformer. </p> <p>Acquiring an isolation transformer can be tricky. First, <em>it's <strong>not</strong> a step-up/down transformer</em>. You can just up-n-<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00007KQKJ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">buy one from Amazon</a>, but the price may hurt. I see "5 KVA" <em>service</em> transformers all the time on Craigslist for $100 or so, and those'll work just fine as an isolation transformer with an excess of capacity -- but you'll need a 240V power source and some help from an electrician to set it up. In that case I would probably get a small rack and set it up like a PDU. Craigslist sometimes sees 1.5 KVA transformers that are much lighter weight. </p> <p>You need an isolation transformer of appropriate size (look on your equipment's nameplate for its rating in VA [similar to watts but not quite the same], otherwise multiply amps by your line voltage: 120 or 230V). Expect cheap gaming rigs to have numbers in the 1200 VA range (yes I know the power supply says "850W"!) If you can measure actual peak draw with a Kill-a-Watt, you can go with that number instead. </p>

9617

2018-08-11T11:16:54.710

|power-supply|

<p>I have just had my third desktop PC in four years fried by an apparent power surge during a thunderstorm. We rent an ancient house in Western North Carolina (read: "awful Duke Energy electrical grid and wiring that was installed shortly after Ben Franklin went kite-flying"), so I can't fix any of that.</p> <p>Four years ago, there was a (probably) lightning-generated surge that took out a (turned off) desktop PC, my beloved gaming rig, one monitor, the ISP's modem, my Linksys router and an electric blanket.</p> <p>Yesterday, another lightning-generated surge took out my (turned off but plugged in) gaming rig and, weirdly, whatever gizmo there is in the ISP's Arris router that handles ethernet connections - its wifi still works.</p> <p>Neither of these surges damaged anything else and they didn't knock out the power or blow a breaker.</p> <p>Is there a surge suppressor that can protect electronics from this kind of thing? The fellow from the ISP that replaced the modem four years ago told me that nothing can contain a surge like that and that the only sure way to protect my gear is to unplug it during electrical storms. Is he right?</p>

I really need to find a surge suppressor that works!

<p>The <a href="https://uk.pi-supply.com/products/pijuice-standard" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PiJuice HAT</a> includes a battery solution for the Pi, and has a built-in RTC. There's additional features/add-ons available as well. </p>

9655

2018-08-23T10:07:53.563

|raspberry-pi|real-time-clock|battery|

<p>I have found a few old Kickstart projects, such as <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/geekroo/pipeye-an-advanced-battery-hat-to-power-your-raspb/posts/1323876" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, which consist of a case (not on-topic), containing a Real Time Clock and battery power for the Pi.</p> <p>Some have a few extra features, such as a display, extra USB ports, or solar power panel, etc.</p> <p>Does anyone know of anything with at least the capabilities of the referenced project? (or even where I can buy one of those)</p>

Raspbery Pi case with Real Time Clock and battery power

<p>If you didn't want to keep the same monitors, you could use something like <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=35460" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Mouse Without Borders</a>.</p> <p>A KVM switch would also do the trick.</p>

9687

2018-08-30T08:19:14.280

|laptop|desktop|

<p>I will soon own a laptop that I will need to use for work. I currently own a desktop which I use for my personal stuff, whose set-up I love (two monitors, my old mechanical keyboard, etc.).</p> <p>I want to use that same set-up for work so that I don't need to work on a tiny screen with a tiny keyboard. However, it'd be painful to switch from my desktop to my laptop and back every day by disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables.</p> <p>I want to know what hardware set-up I could use to achieve a way of easily transitioning my peripherals from one machine to the other.</p> <p>The connections I would need to switch are:</p> <ul> <li>2x BenQ GW2255 21.5-Inch LED Monitor (I am open to buying newer ones).</li> <li>1x USB keyboard</li> <li>1x USB mouse</li> <li>1x ethernet connection</li> </ul> <p>It has been suggested to me to connect the keyboard and mouse to the monitors if possible, so that only the monitors need to be switched somehow, I leave this here in case it's useful.</p>

Set-up to quickly move from desktop to laptop and back

<p>I want to mention that there are also models with 8GB of RAM and more options to choose from in the price range between $350 to $1500.</p> <blockquote> <p>I am in the market for a Chromebook. This will be a second machine, like a Kindle Fire with a keyboard. I'm not imagining any kind of power use at all, just streaming, reading, word processing, surfing, and monitoring of videos and photos as I shoot them. But that's not to say that I couldn't discover that I like using it for other things too.</p> </blockquote> <p>Kindle Fire with keyboard, that pretty much is how I use my Asus C302 and I also think of it as: »nah, it's not running anything fancy.« But actually it can amount to quite a lot and there is not much left of 4GB RAM even though I usually use it with GalliumOS and Firefox which is a bit more aggressive with memory management (you should stick with Chrome OS though!).</p> <p>Edit: on second thought, I cannot imagine making good use of more than 8GB with your usage patterns at the moment. I had a laptop with 16GB for two years, not used for gaming or hosting more than one virtual machine, RAM was just rather cheap at that time.</p> <hr> <p>From the point of view that a Chromebook is a piece of computer hardware with a keyboard and a 10-15 inch screen that runs a webbrowser to display websites it may look like 4GB are sufficient. At the moment.</p> <p>The best way to find out if 4GB is enough for you would be open <strong>Chrome's Taskmanager</strong> during your usual desktop browsing and check how much Chrome consumes. Some extensions also consume additional RAM, websites tend to grow and be designed more responsive, also people usually have several tabs open or pinned. 4GB is okay for now but on top of my head knowing the browsing habits of people around me and my own and that a Chromebook may well last 5 years or more while being regularly updated with security updates and new features(!), I'd recommend to spend a bit more money to get an 8GB model at least.</p> <p>From another point of view I have watched 2GB Chromebooks and HDMi sticks suffer under the load of poorly written iframe Grafana &amp; Kibana madness for months. You don't want to run out of RAM if it can be avoided.</p> <p>Chromebooks also feature Android Apps and Linux apps (Crostini). It is still not a full fledged desktop experience like a Mac or Windows computer but you certainly have the possibility to make use of more than 4GB RAM now or in the future. Some people may argue that you could close some rather unimportant tabs or that the browser should manage background tabs better but I don't think that is a good solution as you may want to use a split view to view more pages at the same time, work with multiple monitors (small portable monitors exist) or just have the information ready when you need it (and no network access).</p> <p>The benefit is to not run out of RAM, which results in significant system slow downs. Also typically RAM cannot be upgraded on Chromebooks. I'd give the same advice for Chromebooks as I'd give for any laptop that you are going to use the next couple of years: <strong>4GB RAM is not enough, get 8GB and have peace of mind.</strong></p> <hr> <p>Edit 2018-09-12: There is another point to consider: the processor.</p> <p>To keep it simple: <strong>try to avoid Intel processors where the model number starts with an N</strong>.</p> <p>These are <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goldmont" rel="nofollow noreferrer">out-of-order low power CPU designs</a> and different from typical mobile CPUs. They have been marketed as Atoms but also as Celerons and Pentiums. If you can afford to spend more money get a device with at least a Pentium processor without an N in the model number, or even better an m3/i3 or m5/i5. Intel has been very liberal with names and letters which is very confusing for consumers after some generations/years.</p> <p>Google is likely going to present a <a href="https://chromeunboxed.com/news/pixelbook-2-images-facebook-nearly-bezel-less-display" rel="nofollow noreferrer">successor to the Pixelbook</a> in a few weeks. Keep your eyes open you may find a good deal for the old model. If that's not an option you can check reddit where a user posts a Bi-Weekly Buying Advice Thread, here is the latest one at the time of writing: <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/chromeos/comments/9ci9bd/biweekly_buying_advice_thread_sep_2_15/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.reddit.com/r/chromeos/comments/9ci9bd/biweekly_buying_advice_thread_sep_2_15/</a> </p> <p>I live in Germany where Chromebooks are rather unpopular, so there isn't much advice I can give where to get the best deal in your region.</p> <p>Final note: I also do have a Lenovo N22 with said Celeron N processor, It gets work done (it's the one I tortured with iframes) it's just not that kind of device you were initially looking for, a convertible for a bit more than $500 and 8GB should be a good choice for the next 5 years.</p>

9701

2018-09-05T02:32:45.200

|laptop|memory|chromebook|

<p>I am in the market for a Chromebook. This will be a second machine, like a Kindle Fire with a keyboard. I'm not imagining any kind of power use at all, just streaming, reading, word processing, surfing, and monitoring of videos and photos as I shoot them. But that's not to say that I couldn't discover that I like using it for other things too.</p> <p>Almost all of the Chromebooks on Amazon have 4GB RAM, but some have as much as 16GB.</p> <p>Comparing my options on Amazon, I think my priorities are (in order):</p> <ul> <li>Touchscreen</li> <li>Price</li> <li>Reviews (reliability)</li> <li>Larger screen (14" is good, 15.6" is better)</li> <li>Camera quality</li> <li>Processing speed and power</li> </ul> <p>Am I likely to actually experience significantly better performance with more RAM?</p> <p>For comparison, here are two Chromebooks with dramatically different sticker prices (obviously for more reasons than just RAM):</p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B075JLPLBL" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pixlebook with 16GB RAM</a></p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B076V3YMRY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer with 4GB RAM</a></p>

What benefit would I see with more than 4GB RAM in a Chromebook?

<p>One option you have would be to use a straight circuit board with appropriate traces, if the minimalistic approach is your objective. I have what is described on <a href="https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_453059.html?wid=1433363&amp;currency=USD&amp;vip=15396729&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpPyQwYqm3QIVxbjACh2xqAt5EAQYAyABEgLsKfD_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gearbest</a> as a USB flashlight:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJefR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJefR.png" alt="USB Flashlight"></a></p> <p>It is a 1.92 mm thick piece of circuit board that fits well into the USB port of my powerbank. The price for five is US$1.13 from gearbest. This is one example. </p> <p>Additional searching has discovered a link to a site called <a href="https://elabbay.myshopify.com/products/usb-am-bo-v1a-usb2-0-type-a-male-plug-breakout-board-elabguy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">eLabBay</a> which sells prototype boards that are a bit more bulky than the USB flashlight:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnnrY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnnrY.jpg" alt="prototype usb board"></a></p> <p>You would be able to ignore the header pins and cut away the wings to further reduce the profile, if needed. At bit more expensive at US$6.48, but it's also just another example.</p> <p>There are circuit board services which will produce boards from your design. In larger quantities, I'd expect the prices would be better than this last one, but requires that you create a design. I did a quick search for "pcb service" and the first return showed ten pieces for five dollars and that was only one entry. There may be others at lower prices.</p> <p>Of course, all of this does require that you perform the soldering, but it's not as finicky as doing so with typically stock small gauge USB wire.</p>

9705

2018-09-05T23:49:06.703

|usb|cable|

<p>I'm trying to build a device made up of several other devices all connected using USB A cables. The amount of room on the cables taken up by the "human sized" ends requires a larger enclosure than I want to use. Other than purchasing raw USB connectors and soldering them myself, where can I purchase cables with minimal ends?</p> <p>I've tried the google approach, Mouser, etc.</p>

Where to purchase USB cables without "human sized" ends

<p>As of today Bluetooth stack has changed a lot since. The new HFP 1.6 supports better voice quality (16 kHz, 16 bit) with the mSBC codec, still very compressed and with fair quality but noticeable better. Long story short, getting a BT +5.0 dongle and headset should make it work.</p> <p>Alternatives such as FastStream or AptX LL bidirectional, are hard to find a pair that dance together. I have a set of FS in BT 5.3 and voice works as HFP 1.7 instead.</p> <p>When the upcoming standard LC3 codec gets globalized (currently optional in BT 5.3), HD calls will be a fact. Will take years though.</p>

9712

2018-09-07T15:15:37.577

|audio|bluetooth|headphones|

<p>I have a set of <a href="https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ticpods-free-most-interactive-wireless-earbuds#/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">bluetooth earbuds</a> and I have been using them with my MacBook running High Sierra. I use them for Slack calls and the quality basically sounds like I'm talking on my phone. I understand Apple's official advice is to switch to the internal microphone, but that defeats the purpose. I was wondering if there was a specific wireless headset that will give me the same quality as a pair of dumb wired earbuds.</p> <p>I want to add that I did a decent amount of investigation on my own. I understand The driver macOS uses is SBC when playing just audio and SCO when using the Handsfree profile. I've even been able to enable AAC when playing audio, but none of this has helped me. I've basically just accepted the fact that the Bluetooth driver that macOS uses for the Handsfree profile is terrible quality and there is nothing I can do about it.</p> <p>I just want to know if there is a wireless headset that will give me the same quality as wired earbuds. </p>

Wireless Headset Quality

<p>That <code>MYLB DB9 RS232 to 10 pin Ribbon Cable Connector Adapter</code> goes into that JCOM1 pin header in <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tn2ju.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">your top picture</a>. You have to make sure that pin 1(of JCOM1) and the red line(of ribbon cable) are on the same side. You may (or may not) need to also enter BIOS to enable COM1 (or Serial) settings, though usually(with any motherboard really) their defaults are already set and COM1 is enabled.</p>

9722

2018-09-09T16:55:39.927

|motherboard|pc|rs-232|

<p>I need to add a RS232(Serial Port) connection to my pc, and unfortunately I'm unable to use RS232 to USB adapter, only direct RS232 connection, I have seen this item: <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MYLB-DB9-RS232-to-10-pin-Ribbon-Cable-Connector-Adapter/32735919280.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.726d6d354gPzge&amp;ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_5015512_10059_5016212_10696_100031_10084_10083_5016313_10103_451_452_10618_10307_5015613,searchweb201603_45,ppcSwitch_5&amp;algo_expid=73b6ce48-3a58-4554-ac33-7eea0b33bb05-0&amp;algo_pvid=73b6ce48-3a58-4554-ac33-7eea0b33bb05&amp;priceBeautifyAB=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MYLB-DB9-RS232-to-10-pin-Ribbon-Cable-Connector-Adapter/32735919280.html?</a> and that seems nice, but I have no idea how to connect something like that, I'm pretty sure that it shouldn't be connected through the PSU, as I don't recall seeing anything similar from a PSU, so I assume you need to connect it directly to the motherboard somehow, which I believe is correct, but still, I don't know how to connect it to the motherboard, and if I even can, here are pictures of my motherboard:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tn2ju.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tn2ju.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAMg6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAMg6.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>My motherboard is MSI B75MA-E33, so Im not even sure its the correct place to ask, but hopefully someone can help me here, thanks! :)</p>

Adding RS232(Serial Port) to motherboard

<p>I've tried to keep your budget as close to $500 as possible making every micro optimization that I know of.</p> <h2><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/user/bennett_yeo/saved/N9JkdC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Custom Build Part List $555.68 </a></h2> <ul> <li><strong>Intel i5-8400</strong></li> <li><strong>Liquid CPU Cooler</strong> Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120</li> <li><strong>8GB DDR4-2666</strong> G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series</li> <li><strong>M.2 SSD 128GB</strong> Samsung - PM961</li> <li><strong>Nvidia GTX 1050 2GB</strong> (MSI)</li> <li><strong>Micro ATX</strong> Gigabyte - H310M</li> <li><strong>450W PSU</strong> EVGA 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply</li> <li><strong>MicroATX Mini Tower Case</strong> Rosewill - FBM-01</li> </ul> <p>Optional HDD Suggestion:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD3E7CF6483&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>300GB 10000 RPM HDD</strong> Western Digital VelociRaptor</a></li> </ul> <h2>Analysis/Justifications</h2> <p><strong>GPU Choice</strong></p> <p>Foremost, typically the most expensive part of a high-end custom build tends to be its GPU, where <strong>the latest 1080 and 1070 GPUs cost about your entire budget alone</strong>. In order to reduce cost I decided to recommend you a GTX 1050 which should be able to render 4K at 60 fps, I don't believe the C++ OpenCV libraries are terribly inefficient so you should be good there.</p> <p><strong>CPU Choice</strong></p> <p>The <a href="http://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i5-8400-vs-Intel-Core-i7-6700K/3939vs3502" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>i5-8400 is on par with the i7-6700K in terms of performance</strong></a> with the exception of floating point calculations where it lags behind a little bit.</p> <p><strong>SSD Choice</strong></p> <p><strong><a href="http://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-PM961-NVMe-PCIe-M2-128GB-vs-Samsung-860-Evo-250GB/m194898vs3949" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The PM 961 outperforms the 2.5" Samsung 860 EVO</a></strong> with a whopping 1496 MB/s seq read and 722 MB/s seq write. If you're not familiar with them, the Samsung EVO's are well known for being one the best valued SSDs and can pack quite a punch. I have an 840 EVO and can attest to its performance.</p> <p><strong>RAM Choice</strong></p> <p><strong>I had to skimp on the RAM to try and save money</strong>. I did however try to find RAM with the lowest CAS latency.</p> <h2>Build Caveats</h2> <p>In order to save money on the Motherboard, I had to use a motherboard that only supports up to 32 GB of RAM despite the i5-8400 supporting up to 64 GB of RAM split over 2 slots. Also the cheap-o case I recommended doesn't have front panel USB 3.0 ports.</p> <hr> <p><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/user/bennett_yeo/saved/N9JkdC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">In case you missed it, here is the PC Part Picker page</a> for this build which will help you automatically track the best place to buy each part for your build.</p>

9731

2018-09-11T01:56:45.293

|graphics-cards|processor|

<p>I'm looking for a graphics card that minimizes the amount of time taken to upload 4k video frames from Opencv to the GPU. OpenCV uses opencl behind the scenes to do GPU related calculations but I've found that the upload/download time to the GPU is the biggest bottleneck. How do I go about evaluating GPUs and what specs should I be looking at on the graphics card to see if it has the attributes I'm looking for (uploading to graphics card quickly with 4k frames)?</p> <p>Edit:</p> <p>Ideally I'd like the machine to cost &lt;= 500 dollars in total, including the GPU (I am open to building a completely new machine for this).</p> <p>Edit 2:</p> <p>In short, the gist is to build something optimized as much as possible for OpenCV (with OpenCL) and video processing high res (4k) in general</p>

Choosing Graphics Card for OpenCV