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hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com

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<p>First check if your BIOS even lets you change the memory settings at all, many don't. If your motherboard BIOS allows you to tweak enough settings it is likely but NOT guaranteed you will find compatible settings.</p> <p>Yes, but with limitation. You will have to use the worst timings for ALL memory chips. So even though some memory supports 17-17-17 the worst times are 19-19-19 and you will have to use those for ALL memory.</p> <p>Across every category you will need to use the worst numbers, which in memory timing that usually means the largest number.</p>

17850

2023-05-03T17:09:27.340

|laptop|memory|

<p>I have a Samsung 4gb 2666Mhz ddr4 SODIMM memory installed (but working on 2400Mhz due to motherboard limitation). More info about this RAM here <a href="https://semiconductor.samsung.com/emea/dram/module/sodimm/m471a5244cb0-ctd/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://semiconductor.samsung.com/emea/dram/module/sodimm/m471a5244cb0-ctd/</a></p> <p>and here</p> <p><a href="https://download.semiconductor.samsung.com/resources/data-sheet/M471A5244CB0-CTD00.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://download.semiconductor.samsung.com/resources/data-sheet/M471A5244CB0-CTD00.pdf</a></p> <p>The CL of the installed memory is 19.</p> <p>I want to add another 4gb one but it is from a different brand (Crucial). I found these 2 in the market but I couldn't decide (since they also have a different organization(rank x organization): <strong>1Rx8</strong>):</p> <p><strong>Crucial 4GB DDR4-2400 SODIMM CT4G4SFS824A</strong></p> <blockquote> <p>Technology DDR4, Density 4GB, Module type SODIMM, DIMM type Unbuffered, Voltage 1.2V, Speed DDR4-2400, CAS latency 17, Extended timings 17-17-17, PC4-19200</p> </blockquote> <p><strong>Crucial 4GB DDR4-2666 SODIMM CT4G4SFS8266</strong></p> <blockquote> <p>Technology DDR4, Density 4GB, Module type SODIMM, DIMM type Unbuffered, Voltage 1.2V, Speed DDR4-2666, CAS latency 19, Extended timings 19-19-19, PC4-21300</p> </blockquote> <p>I wanna know if it is possible to mix RAMs of different brands. If it is possible, what points do I need to consider to choose the one to buy.</p>

Installing RAMs with different brand, CL and other differences

<p>One possible scanner is Canon CanoScan 9000F Mark II. It support 35mm, 120 format films out of the box. Up to A4 for reflective materials. I am afraid larger films must be scanned by hand and also by hand the person should apply corrections (for negatives). The scanner support up to 9600DPI (for films) and 4800 DPI for reflective materials. Can scan up to 12 frames from 35mm strips or 4 frames in single operation. Support up to 48 bits colour depth (if you need colour scanning).</p> <p>Per <a href="https://www.canon-europe.com/business/products/scanners/flatbed-scanners/canoscan_9000f_markii/specification.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specs</a> you can scan A4 /300DPI for 7 seconds, around 50 seconds for single 35mm frame (time is the same if they are in row)</p> <p>P.S. As humble recommendation please consider reading <a href="https://www.digitizationguidelines.gov/guidelines/FADGI%20Technical%20Guidelines%20for%20Digitizing%20Cultural%20Heritage%20Materials_3rd%20Edition_05092023.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">&quot;FADGI Technical Guidelines for Digitizing Cultural Heritage Materials&quot;</a> for some ideas how to best preserve the materials in digital form.</p>

17869

2023-05-13T07:25:08.160

|scanner|

<p>What would be a good option to digitize a historic photo archive (both paper and negatives)? Price is not a constraint, but there's only one person to take care of the process, so it has to be as automatic as possible.</p>

Professional scanner for photos with feeder

<p>At its core the z590 chipset with a good 11th gen chip is more than enough to do whatever you want to do.</p> <p>However since you are building a new pc rather than deciding to keep an existing one. It all depends on what kind of deals you can find.</p> <p>The main thing to consider when looking around is that an intel 13400(or f) is about as fast as an intel 11700k. On the AMD side that is roughly a 7600, or a 5800x.</p> <p>So if you go out looking for parts, make sure that the cost is the same or less than that of a newer setup with an added motherboard, and you should be alright.</p>

17934

2023-06-17T01:51:52.783

|processor|motherboard|

<p>Will my MSI MPG Z590 10th/11th gen Gaming Carbon wifi motherboard be outdated soon? Using for UE5 and game programming</p>

Should I toss my MSI z590 motherboard and start over?

<p>As to the self-suggested upgrades:</p> <p>You could try bumping the ram to 16gb, but DDR3 has a lot of compatibility issues across platforms, motherboards, speeds, etc. It's not like DDR4/5 where you get memory profiles that at least helps a lot.</p> <p>Going from a spinning drive to an SSD could be a massive boost to say the least.</p> <p>If you want to try it, go for it. I would set a strict budget for your upgrades to under $100USD, it really isn't worth spending any more than that in terms of trying. And even then, this is only if you're really budget constrained to begin with. You might be able to find a donor PC, or a much newer used option, depending on where you are at, on Facebook marketplace, ebay, craigslist or other options (buyer beware).</p> <p>Getting over 8gb ram is really essential for running anything with a modern browser. You did mention trying Ubuntu, which itself is rather bloated and 4gb was never going to cut it there. You could try a less resource intensive UI distro such as KUbuntu or Linux Mint (Mate). The browser will still be your biggest bottleneck.</p> <p>Unfortunately this may well still be insufficient for general use today. You might consider a 7000 series AMD laptop or mini pc that has RDNA3 level graphics, which are halfway decent for integrated and better than most lower cost GPUs from a few years ago or older.</p> <p>You're honestly looking at about 8 cpu generations, the first half at 5-10% improvements generationally, and the latter closer to 25%. That doesn't include increased cores and clocks. It's really a massive difference.</p>

17938

2023-06-18T06:42:33.857

|processor|motherboard|memory|

<p>I want to run something by people here to see if I'm on the right track or if I'm wasting my time.</p> <p>I found my old desktop computer from almost 15 years ago. After some initial research, I get the impression that I can make this computer a productive machine with just a few upgrades. I want to use this machine for Zoom conferences, and use it to do light video editing of my video meetings and online seminar/lectures that I attend.</p> <p>Here are the specifications that I was able to retrieve for my machine:</p> <ul> <li>M4A77TD motherboard</li> <li>AMD Athlon 2 ADX620WFK42GI, Quad Core 2.6 GHz / 2600 MHz: 667 MHz Memory</li> <li>4GB of Memory (2 sticks of PC3 10666 2GB memory: PN OCZ3P1333LV4GK)</li> <li>GeForce 9400 GT: EN9400GT</li> <li>1 TB Hard Drive (not SSD)</li> </ul> <p>Right now when I use the machine, the windows operating system might freeze randomly while I'm browsing the internet and watching youtube. I can reboot to get back to using the computer. But some time later, things can randomly freeze again. I tried replacing windows with Ubuntu 22.04 with a GUI, and similar freezing issue still occurred.</p> <p>I wonder if my freezing issue is the result of insufficient memory? 4GB does seem too little.</p> <p>Hence I was contemplating the following upgrades:</p> <ul> <li>Increase memory to 16 GB</li> <li>Apply some new CPU thermal paste between the heat sink and the CPU</li> <li>Use a 256 GB SSD as my primary drive that the operating system boots from</li> </ul> <p>Do you think these upgrades will allow me to use this computer for zoom conferences, editing online meetings/lectures that I've recorded, do some computer programming and database programming (sql server, mysql etc...) ?</p>

Will upgrading my 15 year old computer make it powerful enough for video editing?

<h2>Upgrade Effectiveness</h2> <p>Without more context usually I would assume that a GPU, then CPU upgrade would be the most effective at handling ML proccessing than anything else. While being a slightly older GPU by today's standards, I would not consider an RTX 2060 to be anything to sniff at. My estimation is that CPU/GPU upgrade effectiveness would largely depend on the AI/ML model's software implementation to exploit the hardware.</p> <h2>GPU future proofing</h2> <p>As far as future proofing upgrades of the GPU, you can check a resouce like <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pc part picker</a> to perform what-if scenarios as it automatically filters by GPUs your motherboard are compatible with, if you decide your GPU isn't up to your standards. Perhaps you may want to consider the possibility of leaving spare slots for SLI, though I'm not familiar enough with the latest AI/ML standards to know how effective that is for your context.</p> <h2>Regarding Memory</h2> <p>In the case of your memory upgrade it's likely you'd already know if you were bumping up against a 8 gb limit assuming you monitor your system at all. If you're not coming close enough to the upper limit of that where your operating system is writing to the page file (on HDD), or using memory compression (increasing CPU load) you'll probably not see that much of a performance upgrade in that respect besides possibly some slight increase due to longer life of main memory caching.</p> <p>The largest performance gain you'd see from your memory is that fact that it has a significantly higher operating frequency than your former memory which will increase the over operating throughput of the system.</p> <h2>Fan noise</h2> <p>As far as your concerns with fan noise, higher end components tend to have a better chance of having <strong>fan speed control software</strong> through vendor applications which you could control directly to run at a slower quieter speed, at the cost of overall performance.</p> <p>It sounds like your PSU is the most noticable component in the system so without direct control over these fans, assuming there is some sort of software/bios avenue for it, would be to decrease the power consumption of the overall components, thus leading to less thermal dissipation. There are a couple ways to do this, which mostly involve utilizing overclocking tools to limit your maximum frequencies, or voltages. Note that <strong>thermal dissipation is a function that scales linearly with frequency but has a squared relationship with voltage.</strong></p> <p>Your easiest bet outside of fan control software would be underclocking via software overclocking tools like <a href="https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/download/17881/intel-extreme-tuning-utility-intel-xtu.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel XTU</a> or Asus's GPU overclocking software. If you're capable of dealing with overclocking from the BIOS more power to you. Otherwise, I'd be remiss to mention that messing with voltages is going to be more difficult than limiting maximum frequency.</p> <p>Lastly if the individual components are giving you trouble with sound you have the option to switching to water cooling (like an AIO (All-in-one) water cooling kit for you CPU for example) which will allow you to have minimal sound without sacrificing performance.</p>

17948

2023-06-24T12:40:14.410

|pc|mini-pc|upgrade|

<p>I have an old ITX PC. The essentials of the spec are currently:</p> <ul> <li>Cooler Master Elite 130 case</li> <li>Corsair 850w PSU</li> <li>ASUS® H81I-PLUS: Mini-ITX</li> <li>Intel® Core™i5 Quad Core Processor i5-4570 (3.2GHz)</li> <li>8GB DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz RAM</li> <li>Gigabyte Geforce RTX2060 Video card</li> <li>Samsung 1TB SSD</li> </ul> <p>The video card and PSU are recent upgrades. The rest is around 10 years old.</p> <p>Since replacing the PSU it has run reliably, however the fan is a bit louder than I would like. I believe the noise comes from the CPU fan which is the original. (I replaced the case fans with quiet models and it made no difference). That said, it isn't unbearable (maybe 25-30dB).</p> <p>I am looking to upgrade the motherboard, CPU and memory for much improved performance. I am considering:</p> <ul> <li>ASUS ROG Strix B760-I</li> <li>Intel i7 13700F</li> <li>Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16GB) 6400MHz C32</li> </ul> <p>I would also upgrade the video card in the future, but not right now.</p> <p>So, this is pretty high end (which is what I want) without going crazy.</p> <p>What I am wondering is how the heat generated would compare with the current configuration. On paper, the new CPU has a lower power consumption than the old one (65w vs 84w) and probably better power management, so I am hoping the fan would be quieter. I am not sure how the motherboard will compare (I guess it is not a big factor) or the memory (possibly more, because there is more of it, but again, not a big factor).</p> <p>The PC will have various uses from running AI models to reading emails. So my ideal system would be able to handle the former case whilst being almost silent in the later case. I'd also want some headroom to slap a bigger video card in later.</p> <p>Any advice on what difference the proposed upgrades would make (if any) would be much appreciated.</p>

Upgrading the motherboard, CPU and memory on a 10 year old ITX system

<p>So I would reccomend the Framework laptop, although it's not availible in Sweden (yet) or with Swedish keyboard layout (yet) although it is availible with multiple QWERTY layouts and with a clear layout. It has CPUs with up to 14 cores I think (on Intel 12th gen), has 2 RAM slots (each of which supporting 4-32GB RAM) and one SSD slot (which officially supports up to 4TB but I think you can technically do 8TB too). The ports are customizable and installing Linux is pretty easy. I use mine for developing too (although mine is 11th gen Intel) and I like it, although I also had to use keyboard stickers because when we ordered it they didn't have a Belgian keyboard layout yet (and that is the one I'm used to)</p>

17971

2023-07-08T06:50:07.340

|laptop|linux|

<p>I want a fast, portable Linux system for development purposes; I need to be able to compile in parallel, preferably 16 cores, a Swedish keyboard, and 2-3 TB storage; I liked the following.</p> <p><a href="https://slimbook.es/en/store/slimbook-executive/executive-1-comprar" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://slimbook.es/en/store/slimbook-executive/executive-1-comprar</a></p> <p><a href="https://www.pcw.fr/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.pcw.fr/</a> (but they don't seem to come with a Swedish keyboard)</p> <p>Do you think I have many alternatives, or should I choose the slim book?</p>

Fast laptop that can run Linux, 8-16 cores, 16-23 GiB RAM, => 2TB storage, Swedish keyboard, available in EU?

<blockquote> <p>As I understand it, PCIe 4 has double the throughput of PCIe 3. Thus, PCIe 3 x 16 has the same throughput as PCIe 4 x 8, correct?</p> </blockquote> <p>Correct.</p> <blockquote> <p>A RX 6600 with its 8 lanes in my PCIe 3 system would have the equivalent of just 4 lanes throughput, right?</p> </blockquote> <p>Careful here. You still get 8 lanes of PCIe 3.0 if the card has 8 PCIe 4.0 lanes.<br /> The RX6600 will run at 8x PCIe 3.0 in your board, and will get around ~7.8 GB/s.</p> <blockquote> <p>Should I rather invest in the RX 6700, which seems to be the cheapest PCIe 4 x 16 graphics card?</p> </blockquote> <p>That depends on the games you play.<br /> The PCIe bandwidth is not directly scaling how much FPS a GPU can achieve. In some games you will find that running on 4x lanes has a negligible impact while other games will use as much bandwidth as they can get.</p> <p><a href="https://www.techspot.com/review/2104-pcie4-vs-pcie3-gpu-performance/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This article</a> from TechSpot shows some benchmarks of the same GPU used on different PCIe bus configurations for a variety of games. For most of the games they tested the performance drop going from 16x PCIe 4.0 to 8x PCIe 3.0 was around 5%. For Doom Eternal it was a significant 18% performance drop. So there isn't a general answer and the games you want to play should factor into your decision.</p> <p>My opinion is that for most games this drop in bandwidth is not going to be enough to cause buyer's remorse.</p> <p>If you're wondering about a game that wasn't benchmarked you can sort of judge whether it will lose FPS with less bandwidth based on some things about the way the game works and its engine.</p> <ul> <li>Games that stream models and textures in big open worlds tend to need high bandwidth, uploading data to the GPU takes time and can cause stuttering. Doom Eternal is an exceptional example of this because the engine very aggressively uses streaming instead of keeping unused data in memory.</li> <li>Games with loading screens for every area you go in to are doing all of their GPU uploads during the loading screen, so nothing needs to happen as you are playing. A game like Overwatch is a good example of this.</li> </ul>

17981

2023-07-12T17:18:05.593

|graphics-cards|pcie|

<p>How important is the number of PCIe lanes when choosing a graphics card for gaming? My computer is still PCIe 3 and I'm concerned, whether or not a PCIe 4 x 8 graphics card like the RX 6600 will cut it for me. Should I rather invest in the RX 6700, which seems to be the cheapest PCIe 4 x 16 graphics card?</p> <p>As I understand it, PCIe 4 has double the throughput of PCIe 3. Thus, PCIe 3 x 16 has the same throughput as PCIe 4 x 8, correct? A RX 6600 with its 8 lanes in my PCIe 3 system would have the equivalent of just 4 lanes throughput, right? I wonder if that's enough.</p> <p>For context, if anyone wonders, I have a Ryzen 5 3400G CPU in a Asus TUF B450M-PLUS Gaming mainboard with 16 Gb of RAM. My display is 1080p, but my next upgrade might be a 2560x1440 monitor.</p>

Importance of the number of PCIe lanes

<p>If there is no budget/region limitations the Framework 12th gen DIY laptop is probably best. It's repairable, stirdy and if you tell them to include Windows they will, but if you are gonna go work in Azure, you can save €150 by going Linux. It's power is pretty ok (I use the 11th gen and it's still pretty powerful) although the battery life isn't amazing on 11th gen but I think they partially fixed it on 12th and 13th gen</p> <p>Edit: Since you are gonna be working in Docker and it might be nice to be able to test locally on Linux. WSL is possible though but that doesn't work as nice</p>

17988

2023-07-15T14:48:49.220

|development|web-development|

<p>My position was recently eliminated at a biotech where I worked for 17 years and am in the process of looking for a Windows development laptop that I can use for some training classes that I am taking in Azure technologies such as Azure DevOps, Azure Portal, Containers (Docker and Kubernetes) to get my skill set up to speed so I can hopefully find a new job.</p> <p>I have a laptop, but it's terribly underpowered and have been doing some research however thought that I would check here as well..</p> <p>Thanks in advance</p>

Can Anyone Recommend a Windows Development Laptop?

<p>a 32&quot; TV, even at 1080p, can be difficult to view from a distance, as a TV (not computer monitor) should.</p> <p>I've bought a 32&quot; TV @ 1080p rather than the 720p; if I were to do it again I would get the 720p because it is a TV I am not less than 3 feet from it like a computer monitor.</p> <p>A 32&quot; @ 4K would not be good as a TV.</p> <p>32&quot; @ 4k is good as a computer monitor, if you face is less than 2 feet from it, and is good visually for gaming and video watching.</p> <p>So yes a 32&quot; <strong>TV</strong> sold at stores having less than 4K resolution is <em>still up to date</em>.</p> <p>The 32&quot; 1080p TV I bought, viewing from couch ~10 feet away, I cannot read the directv stream guide channel nor much of the Roku channel listings. If that were 4K resolution it would be horrible.</p>

17990

2023-07-16T16:07:15.957

|monitors|television|hdtv|

<p>I am looking for a TV 32&quot;. I do not want an Android TV, my preferred OSes are Tizen and webOS.</p> <p>When I filter for 32&quot; TV I don't find any that support 4K. It come in several online stores only 1080p tv.</p> <p>Is there a specific reason for this? I thought 4K was standard today (2023)?</p>

TV with small diagonal (32") without 4K resolution? Is that still up to date?

<p>There is no real difference. I also have XMP RAM on AMD (DDR4) and that works perfectly without XMP, with XMP and even with a minor overclock</p>

18017

2023-07-24T15:40:14.943

|pc|

<p>I got <strong>Asus PRIME B650M-A WIFI II</strong> Motherboard and <strong>Ryzen 5 7600</strong> CPU. I have already bought a Kingston Fury DDR5 5600MT/s RAM (part number <strong>KF556C40BBA-16</strong>); later on I found it's only XMP (Intel) certified, while I would prefer one that is EXPO (AMD) certified. Should I return it to buy one with EXPO or keep it? What will be the consequences if I keep it? (mainly in terms of performance)</p>

Which RAM Module should I pick?

<p>Examine B4 and any connected squares, and you'll find there is a card-edge connector at the right end and a securing screw on the left end. This is an nvme PCIe solid state drive. I expect you can look up the specifications for your specific model computer and you may also find those specifications under the metal foil. The foil is a heat transfer medium and likely contacts a surface on the removed cover.</p> <p>A small cross-tip screwdriver is all that is needed once the replacement is ready to be installed.</p> <p>According to the <a href="https://www.asus.com/laptops/for-home/vivobook/vivobook-14-x412/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS web site</a> for that model, you have also a conventional spinning drive at B5, which may be the location from which you were able to retrieve your data and may not be defective/damaged.</p>

18022

2023-07-26T21:18:19.090

|motherboard|hard-disk|ssd|

<p>I have an ASUS Vivobook 14 laptop (model: X412D) which seems to have a <em>partial</em> disk failure: the computer boots to BIOS. The Windows OS on a live USB stick failed the repair process. I was able to retrieve the data with a live Ubuntu session from an USB stick, now I would like to change the hardware.</p> <p>It seems like the computer was not equipped with a &quot;standard&quot; HDD or SSD disk (empty area on the bottom left without any connectors); hence I believe the equivalent hardware is part of the motherboard.</p> <ol> <li>Where is it located on the MB? I have provided an image of the laptop interior.</li> <li>Is it possible to change this piece without changing the whole MB?</li> <li>Does it require soldering skills/equipment?</li> </ol> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTpUS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTpUS.jpg" alt="ASUS Vivobook 14 laptop interior - motherboard and battery - grid as overlay" /></a></p>

Hard disk replacement for Asus Vivabook 14

<p>Pretty much every GPU released in the last several years has 4K support and HDMI/DisplayPort connections. Even the &quot;bottom of the barrel&quot; GPUs have these features now.</p> <p>The NVidia GT 1030 is one such card that usually does not have any extra power connector requirements and should support 2x 4K screens.</p> <p>Be advised that you can continue to use your motherboard graphics with the new card too. For example if you need two DisplayPort connections and each only has one.</p>

18035

2023-08-02T13:56:54.957

|graphics-cards|4k|

<p>I need a card that will give me another 4k HDMI or DP output on my Dell Inspiron 3668.</p> <p>The case will hold a full-height card, but the power supply is weak so it won't support a hungry GPU.</p> <p>(This is just for office use so I don't need a GPU. Current MoBo has Intel HD Graphics 630 but only one HDMI output.)</p>

Card to add second 4k display output to workstation

<p>I ended up buying this from Amazon</p> <p>cocopar Portable Travel Monitor 15.6 Inch 1080P FHD USB-C Portable Screen with Dual USB-C Mini HDMI Portable Monitor for Laptop PC Mac Surface Xbox PS5 Switch, with Cover VESA Mountable</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdJ8r.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdJ8r.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

18057

2023-08-12T03:48:34.077

|monitors|portable|

<p>About 4 or 5 times a year I need to use my laptop while travelling and I would like to carry a second screen. My current one is an old ASUS thing. It is fat and has split USB cable, which works only half the time because of its power requirements.</p> <ul> <li>15-18 inches</li> <li>Light</li> <li>Thin, not bulky</li> <li>Not too pricey</li> <li>Preferably HDMI pluggable into the laptop</li> <li>Not a funny dual USB cable for power</li> <li>Don't need touch screen</li> </ul>

Looking for a portable screen for my laptop

<blockquote> <p>use a USB-c enabled monitor and provide power to the device</p> </blockquote> <p>This has been an almost unattainable goal for a long time. Chaining Thunderbolt docks had downstream USB C ports which were capable of DP alt mode, however most of these were big desktop docks with separate heavy AC/DC bricks supplying more than 100W. A notable exception was the JEYI Thunderdock mini which used a USB PD power input. However, it didn't work correctly with a &lt;100W adapter and so JEYI changed it to contain a small 100W GaN power supply. This and the StarTech DKM31C3HVCPD were the only solutions I am aware of. Both were very expensive, though. Nowadays with USB4 there are more such adapters built around the Intel JHL8140 USB4 endpoint chipset. Examples are the Sparkle Travel Dock and the j5create JCD401.</p> <p>Another solution is to combine two adapters:</p> <ol> <li>Convert the USB C signal to DisplayPort using an adapter which is capable of passing power. A very cheap such solution is <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0915ZR21Y" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0915ZR21Y</a> this noname adapter is widely available. It has a USB C port on the side which is capable USB data only and USB 2.0 speeds at that but that's still useful for a keyboard and a mouse. This adapter is part of a family characterized by the PD input on the back, data only port on the side and something useful at the end: DP, mini DP, HDMI, Ethernet, VGA. I have been using it for some time and it does the job. No wonder, it's not a particularly complex device: it doesn't renegotiate PD and doesn't contain any data converters.</li> <li>reconstruct a DP signal with a bidirectional cable or appropriate &quot;reverse&quot; cable. Dan S. Charlton's blog contains many useful lists, in this case <a href="https://dancharblog.wordpress.com/2020/05/10/bi-directional-usbc-dp-cables" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bi-directional DisplayPort-&gt;USB-C, HDMI-&gt;USB-C, and HDMI-&gt;DP cables</a>. One example would be the <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B081VK7Q94" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon Basics Bi-Directional USB-C to DisplayPort Cable</a> note this link goes to Amazon UK, Amazon US doesn't have it at this time. There are some which also injects power like the <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BKG23KTK" rel="nofollow noreferrer">fairikabe DisplayPort to USB C</a> same availability caveat. Dan's list has many, many more. This is typical: availability of these very special cables is spotty.</li> </ol> <p>The disadvantage of doing this is you need a PD source with two ports.</p> <p>However, these days there are adapters/cables which can take a USB C signal from the phone/laptop containing a DisplayPort signal, another from a PD source and has a third USB C port which contains the same DP signal and power from said source. Often only part of it: the adapter will send some to the host as well. Compared to the solution above, these solutions only use one power port from a PD source. Once again his blog contains a list of <a href="https://dancharblog.wordpress.com/2023/10/19/power-display-through-single-usb-c-port-without-a-hub/#usb-c-dp-alt-mode-power-delivery-splitter-or-merger-depending-on-your-perspective" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB-C -&gt; DP alt mode + power delivery “splitter” (or merger depending on your perspective)</a> devices, this list is much, much shorter, at the time of this writing only contains four devices.</p>

18061

2023-08-13T21:23:13.830

|monitors|hub|usb-c|

<p>I have a UMPC (ultra mobile PC) GPD Win 3 as Pictured below. My goal is to use this with a USB-c enabled monitor and get more than 2 hours out of it (I can only do this while using the battery's power). I want to provide power to the device while using the monitor at the same time. I believe a need a special docking device? I cannot find something that does this. I hope you'll excuse my use of images to explain the problem:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4GQL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4GQL.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> Normally while &quot;on the go&quot; I can bring a Bluetooth keyboard and power the device. I could also use a generic USB-c to USB device to plug in multiple USB things.</p> <hr /> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6JwA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6JwA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> Using the dock I could use an HDMI conneciton and power the device at the same time. The problem here is that I'm using the wrong monitor.</p> <hr /> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wtCIS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wtCIS.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> Connecting up the monitor and everything I want works except that the device is not powered. The power does not go through the monitor into the PC</p> <hr /> <p>There are devices (USB-c splitters) that look like this which only work for headphones and typically say that they are not for use with monitors: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWTAE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWTAE.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <hr /> <p>My question is what sort of device can I purchase to send power <em>in</em> to the PC while allowing a monitor connection to be made.</p> <p>Graphically it would look like this: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJgLn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJgLn.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

How can I hook up my UMPC computer to a USB-C monitor while powering the device?

<p>I recommend this <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0C4PN3SYG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Camgeet</a>($57): it has good reviews, HDMI 2.1, USB 3, is within budget, and I'm a sucker for metal housing.</p> <p>Greathtek build's sturdy KVMs. They have a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BWRZPXFY" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cheap one</a>($22), but it's only USB 2. Their <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BGC46LJ1" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">expensive one</a>($90), is USB 3, but out of your budget.</p> <p>If you want USB 3 and can settle for HDMI 2.0, there are many clones, but I recommend this <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0C6GF5S14" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Giimake</a>($31) because it has it's own power supply.</p> <p>You can go super cheap with an <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07K2NZX8L" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HDMI switch</a>($12), but then you either need two keyboards, or a software solution. While I have had great experience with <a href="https://symless.com/synergy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Synergy</a>, I do NOT recommend using it unless you have separate monitors for each computer.</p>

18070

2023-08-16T06:20:33.257

|kvm|

<p>I am looking for a KVM switch under $70USD. All I need to do is switch 2 HDMI ports and 2 USB Ports (for wired Keyboard) into one HDMI and one USB.</p> <p>I dont need to switch the mouse as I have enough room on teh desk. I am also not sure how a wireless logitech mouse would switch anyway.</p> <p>I have looked around, but they either seem to be 500+ or they look too cheap in terms of quality.</p> <hr /> <p>My usage is Windows desktop primarily. For a few hours a week, I want to use a raspberry pi gui. At present I have a separate keyboard and mouse. I have both hdmi cables plugged into my monitor. And I go into the monitor's setup to switch the source over. I do use putty for cli.</p>

Looking for a KVM Switch for HDMI and USB (Keyboard)

<p>Here are some minor details that I will be assuming when writing this answer:</p> <p>There are no good laptops with HDD booting anymore, so I will assume an SSD is also ok. Windows is currently also only Windows 11 on new laptops but you can still install Windows 10 on most of them.</p> <p>The one I would reccomend is the Framework 16 DIY. If you spec it out with 2x8GB RAM and a 1TB SSD, you would come out a little under $2000. For that kinda money you are getting an ultra repairable laptop (I have the Framework 13 and I have heared that the 16 is even better) with a Ryzen 7 7840HS and later the possibility for a GPU. You can connect up to 3 external displays if I'm correct (although you could technically have 6 HDMI ports but that's just stupid). The only downside is is that it has a backlit keyboard but I think you can turn it off. There is no option to buy a Windows 10 license (thanks Microsoft) but you can still install Windows 10 and then buy it later in the Microsoft store</p>

18082

2023-08-21T10:24:29.357

|laptop|

<p>I am looking for a laptop</p> <ul> <li>Windows 10 Pro, I don't want Windows 11</li> <li>At least 15&quot; screen</li> <li>Normal keyboard,</li> <li>F1-F12 should work without pressing another key</li> <li>home, end, pageup, pagedn, ins and del should also work without pressing anything else</li> <li>Not a fan of key engravings lit - they are either not visible or too bright</li> <li>Dont need power guzzling touch screen</li> <li>I want to attach a second screen via UBS or HDMI</li> <li>Min 16GB ram</li> <li>Min 1TB HDD</li> <li>Preferably under $2000US</li> <li>Open to Mac running windows</li> </ul>

Laptop with Windows 10 and normal keyboard

<p>Search for audio splitter cables. Then scroll until you find the matching plugs/sockets in type and dimensions.</p> <p>It is not clear whether the single end is a socket or a plug. This is close</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKi2M.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKi2M.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

18095

2023-08-25T21:50:15.177

|audio|television|cable|

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddpep.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddpep.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I need your help to identify the following TV audio cable;</p> <p>It's being connected to my LG TV monitor to the 'headphones' connector, it's shorter than aux cable (connecting aux cable to the headphones connector is falling out of the connector ('too long')).</p> <p>How such a cable connector called, and where can I get it ? Am I missing something ?</p> <p>Thank you very much.</p>

What is the following TV audio cable called?

<p>Simple, Quadro RTX is based on Turing, and the RTX 4070 is based on the Ada architecture. Turing is way older (it was used in the RTX 2080 for example) so that's why the 4070 is faster. That doesn't mean Quadro is useless, there are Ampere based Quadro cards (like the RTX A6000) and those are faster than the Geforce 4070 in some use cases (like the ones that require 40GB of RAM) so there is still a use case for Quadro cards, you are just comparing Turing to Ada, and Ada will AFAIK always win</p>

18098

2023-08-26T16:40:29.280

|laptop|graphics-cards|

<p>I want to do atomic simulation of proteins using CUDA.</p> <p>I am preparing to purchase a Lenovo laptop. The available GPU options are: the GeForce RTX 4070 and Quadro RTX 5000.</p> <p>Which one would be better for my purpose and why?</p> <p>Wherever I see any benchmark, I see that GeForce outperforms Quadro by miles. If that is so, why is Quardro even in the market?</p>

Accelerated computing: GeForce RTX vs. Quardo RTX

<p>It is without a heat sink. The picture may be a generic one for all models.</p> <p>It says it's <code>Part#: WDS400T2X0E</code></p> <p>Further down it says</p> <blockquote> <p>Product Numbers<br /> 1TB , Without Heatsink WDS100T2X0E<br /> 1TB , With Heatsink WDS100T2XHE<br /> 2TB , Without Heatsink WDS200T2X0E<br /> 2TB , With Heatsink WDS200T2XHE<br /> 4TB , Without Heatsink WDS400T2X0E</p> </blockquote>

18104

2023-08-29T00:41:26.343

|ssd|heat-sink|

<p>I've recently bought an NVMe SSD. The model is called &quot;WD_BLACK SN850X NVMe SSD&quot; (4 TB) and comes without a heatsink (according to the homepage of Western Digital). However, there's some sort of a black (and very flat) &quot;pad&quot; attached on top of the SSD, and I'm asking myself if that's a heatsink.</p> <p>Pictures can be seen here:</p> <p><a href="https://www.westerndigital.com/products/internal-drives/wd-black-sn850x-nvme-ssd#WDS400T2X0E" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.westerndigital.com/products/internal-drives/wd-black-sn850x-nvme-ssd#WDS400T2X0E</a></p> <p>On other NVMe SSDs one can see the different components, such as the controller, but this model has that flat pad attached to it.</p> <p>Does anyone know if this is a heatsink, and whether I can/should add (another) one?</p>

Question about the heatsink of my NVMe SSD

<p>After I made the table in my question for comparison, I realised that there were two differences. The UDM-SE has an SSD and POE's. Downunder the difference in price was $700.</p> <ul> <li>I did not need more POE's (and its cheaper to get them another way)</li> <li>I discussed with tech support for the reseller and he assured me that both have the same throughput after enabling the IDS (Intrusion Detection System)</li> </ul> <p>So, I have purchased the UDM-PRO</p>

18113

2023-09-02T03:52:51.097

|router|gateway|

<p>I have all Ubiquiti hardware so I want to stick with it. The USG is hopeless for security in that if I enable the Threat Management System the throughput drops to 85Mbs (there is a warning is the setup about it). So, I don't have it on.</p> <p>I am looking at these two</p> <ol> <li><p><a href="https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/NETUBI2201/Ubiquiti-UniFi-UDM-PRO-Dream-Machine-Pro-10G-Hyper" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ubiquiti UniFi UDM-PRO Dream Machine Pro 10G HyperFibre Router, 10G SFP+ x2 </a></p> </li> <li><p><a href="https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/NETUBI2202/Ubiquiti-UniFi-UDM-SE-Dream-Machine-Special-Editio" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ubiquiti UniFi UDM-SE Dream Machine Special Edition 10G HyperFibre Router, 10G SFP+ x2</a></p> </li> </ol> <p>I can't figure out why the second one is more expensive (apart from the SSD and POE support). $700 is a lot to pay for this.</p> <p>My priorities are</p> <ol> <li>Speed with IDS enabled</li> <li>NVR is a bonus as I have to replace my Vivotek system sometime, but I think that both have it with external disks</li> <li>I think the first one has integrated cloudkey, which is beneficial only in getting rid of a network device.</li> </ol> <div class="s-table-container"> <table class="s-table"> <thead> <tr> <th>Specification</th> <th>UDM-PRO</th> <th>UDM-SE</th> </tr> </thead> <tbody> <tr> <td>Dimensions</td> <td>442.4 x 43.7 x 285.6 mm</td> <td>442.4 x 43.7 x 285.6 mm (17.42 x 1.72 x 11.24&quot;)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Weight</td> <td>3.90 kg or 3.99 kg With Brackets</td> <td>4.95 kg (10.91 lb)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Interfaces</td> <td>Networking; (8) 10/100/1000 RJ45 LAN Ports, (1) 10/100/1000 RJ45 WAN Port, (1) 1/10G SFP+ LAN Port, (1) 1/10G SFP+ WAN Port</td> <td>(1) WAN: 2.5 GbE RJ45 port, (8) LAN: 1 GbE RJ45 ports,(1) WAN: 10G SFP+ (1) LAN: 10G SFP+</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Management</td> <td>Ethernet In-Band, (1) Bluetooth BLE</td> <td>Ethernet, Bluetooth</td> </tr> <tr> <td>POE Interfaces</td> <td></td> <td>(2) PoE+ IEEE 802.3at (pair A 1, 2+; 3, 6-), (6) PoE IEEE 802.3af (pair A 1, 2+; 3, 6-)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>IDS/IPS Throughput</td> <td>3.5 Gbps</td> <td>3.5 Gbps</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Processor</td> <td>Quad ARM Cortex-A57 Core at 1.7 GHz</td> <td>Quad-Core ARM® Cortex®-A57 at 1.7 GHz</td> </tr> <tr> <td>System Memory</td> <td>4 GB DDR4</td> <td>4 GB DDR4</td> </tr> <tr> <td>On-Board Flash Storage</td> <td>16 GB eMMC</td> <td>16 GB eMMC Integrated 128 GB SSD</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Max Power Consumption</td> <td>33W</td> <td>50W</td> </tr> <tr> <td>LEDs</td> <td>HDD Activity, RJ45 Link/Speed/Activity, SFP+ Link/Speed/Activity</td> <td>(1) 1.3&quot; touchscreen</td> </tr> <tr> <td>ESD/EMP Protection</td> <td>Air: ± 16 kV, Contact: ± 12 kV</td> <td>Air: ± 15 kV, contact: ± 8 kV</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Operating Temperature</td> <td>-10 to 40° C (14 to 104° F)</td> <td>-10 to 40° C (14 to 104° F)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Operating Humidity</td> <td>5 to 95% Noncondensing</td> <td>5 - 95% noncondensing</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Certifications</td> <td>CE, FCC, IC</td> <td>CE, FCC, IC</td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> <p><strong>Concern</strong> With external HDDs for NVR, presumably they can't be on RAID.</p>

Looking to replace my Ubiquiti USG with something faster

<p>I bought the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07XQRY8SB" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sony Mk3</a> and <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BV3CXJLR" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bose 700</a>, and ended up returning the Sony. Both were very similar and had excellent noise canceling. They came out with the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08C7KG5LP" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Mk4</a> shortly thereafter that had all the features that I chose the Bose for.</p> <p>I have been using my Bose 700 5 days a week for 2 years and the battery life has dropped from 21 hours to 16 hours per charge. I have had to replace the ear cups twice, but otherwise they look brand new despite what I have put them through.</p>

18139

2023-09-13T13:45:58.313

|headphones|

<p>I had purchased Bluedio headphones, but they turned out to be rather useless. They</p> <ul> <li>are usually noisy (scratchy)</li> <li>don't pair reliably, I am left 10-20 minutes at the start of the meetings trying to get them working.</li> </ul> <p>My plug in ones work fine every time, so the hardware on my PC is ok.</p> <p>I am looking for over ear wireless (BLE), chargeable headphones</p> <ul> <li>I use them for online meetings only,</li> <li>NOT for gaming, and NOT for listening to music</li> <li>Price point about $200 (Sony ones are $500 around here!!).</li> <li>For Windows 10 PC and Windows 11 laptop</li> <li>I dont want in the ear or on the ear ones as I have hearing aids and glasses</li> </ul>

Wireless over ear headphones

<p>You could always use a &quot;real&quot; speaker system where the speakers have electrical terminals for speaker wire and have to be attached to an amp. Look for &quot;bookshelf&quot; speakers and a stereo amplifier. No reason you can't use this with a normal PC, and it might even sound better than most of those &quot;all in one&quot; desktop speaker systems.</p> <p>I have a set of these <a href="https://www.miccatron.com/micca-covo-s-concentric-driver-speaker/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Micca COVO-S</a> speakers attached to a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B017W13OR0" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SMSL SA-36A</a> desktop amplifier. This uses speaker wire that I had to cut to the right length.</p> <p>You could also look at buying some &quot;active&quot; or &quot;powered&quot; studio monitors for PCs, which are like bookshelf speakers but they have all of the electronics inside the left or right speaker, then some speaker wire runs from the main unit to the other unit.</p> <p>I would suggest the <a href="https://mackie.com/intl/products/studio-monitoring/cr-x-series/CR3_X.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Mackie CR3-X</a> speakers for something that's completely ready to use with a PC and doesn't take up too much desk space.</p>

18179

2023-09-29T12:40:59.237

|cable|speakers|

<p>All of the wired (i.e. not Bluetooth, wifi etc) stereo PC speakers that I've come across have ~1m cables between the two speakers that are hard-wired at either end. Therefore the only way to extend the distance between the two is to splice the cables, which with my limited skills is never that durable. What I'm looking for is a speaker set that either has a longer 2m+ cable, or connects to the second speaker with unpluggable cable e.g. with a 3.5mm jack, which I can easily extend with an extension cable.</p> <p>Thanks</p>

Are there any wired PC speakers that connect the second speaker either with a 2m+ cable, or with a unpluggable cable?

<p>OK, since nobody has responded, I have just bought an (almost random) USB dongle to give it a try and it worked.</p> <p><strong>TLDR:</strong> TP-Link Archer T3U Nano (<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09KTDXPY3" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KTDXPY3</a>)</p> <p>(Full disclosure: I am <strong>NOT</strong> an Amazon affiliate and I do not benefit from sales of this product in any way)</p> <p>Two things were very frustrating in the process of search and selection:</p> <ol> <li>None of the vendors/manufacturers are explicitly stating that their products will work with Windows 10 out of the box without needing to install additional drivers (some do make such statement for Windows 11).</li> <li>There is no authoritative list of devices that Windows 10 has drivers for out of the box without needing to contact Windows Update (would be nice if Microsoft maintained such list, but when was the last time they have listened to their customers?)</li> </ol> <p>Anyway, I just bought a product that was coming from a well-established manufacturer (although not from the free world). The product description was as ambiguous as all other product descriptions, and it also ships with a CD, which hints that driver installation would be needed, but to my amazement, it just picked up a stock driver that ships with Windows 10 and worked without asking for any driver installation on a machine that was not connected to the network (so it is not possible that the driver was quietly picked up from Windows Update).</p>

18189

2023-10-07T18:34:07.317

|usb|wifi|

<p>I am looking for a <strong>WiFi USB dongle</strong> or <strong>WiFi+Bluetooth USB dongle</strong> with the following requirements:</p> <p><strong>Must-haves:</strong></p> <ol> <li>Must install under <strong>Windows 10</strong> without requiring external drivers to be loaded from either manufacturer website or Windows Update (basically appropriate driver must ship with Windows 10 out of the box).</li> <li>Must not circumvent requirement 1 by posing as a USB mass storage device with driver installation program on it.</li> <li>Must plug into USB-A port, <strong>not</strong> USB-C</li> </ol> <p><strong>Nice-haves</strong></p> <ol> <li>Support of as recent WiFi standard as possible</li> <li>Support of as high WiFi speed as possible</li> <li>Support of as high USB speed as possible</li> <li>Made by a reputable manufacturer</li> <li>Preferably as small size as possible, but this is negotiable</li> <li>If must-have requirements can only be met by giving up on Bluetooth, this is workable too</li> </ol> <p>The best I could get so far by searching on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=driverless%20usb%20wifi%20adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon for &quot;driverless USB WiFi adapter&quot;</a> was a bunch of devices that pose as a USB mass storage and offer you to install the drivers from it (<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07YDFZWT8" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here is one example</a>), which violates must-have requirement 2.</p> <p>The second-best I could find is a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00H28H8DU" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">product</a> that has drivers built-in into Windows 11, but not Windows 10.</p> <p>Maybe anyone had the same problem and found the product that solves it?</p>

WiFi USB dongle with no need to install a driver in Win10

<p>In the end, I bought the Samsung memory, tried the configuration and it works.</p> <p>Maybe others might find the following answers useful, but I can NOT guarantee it's going to work on you specific configuration too:</p> <ol> <li>since the memory modules have similar characteristics (CAS latency, ddr3 speed and voltage) there is high probability for them to work together.</li> <li>I'd tested the configuration and there are no ranking incompatibilities.</li> <li>unfortunately, I don't think somebody had time to test all the possible combinations of memories on all possible mainboards.</li> </ol>

18196

2023-10-11T08:47:16.827

|laptop|memory|compatibility|upgrade|

<p>Consider the following configuration:</p> <ul> <li>Asus K52f notebook with</li> <li>Mobile Dual Core Intel Pentium P6100, 2000 MHz (15 x 133)</li> <li>chipset: Intel Ibex Peak-M HM55, Intel Ironlake-M</li> <li>&quot;2GB DDR3-1333 SDRAM (10-9-9-24 @ 666 MHz) (9-9-9-24...&quot; - all these data are from an Aida64 screenshot</li> <li>the memory module, physically, has 8 memory chips on each side (16 chips in total). From a google search, it seems to be an ASint SSZ3128M8-EDJEF 2GB module 2Rx8 PC3-10600 1333MHz</li> </ul> <p>Questions:</p> <ol> <li>Would a 2GB 1333MHz Samsung M471B5773DH0-CH9 ddr3 module be compatible with the above configuration? (so that it ends up with 2 sticks of memory: Asint+Samsung)</li> <li>Do you think there will be memory incompatibilities due to ranking: his memory seems to be 2Rx8 (that's what I found on internet), while the Samsung is 1Rx8</li> <li>could you recommend a forum/site where I could check any memory with any mainboard (there are some RAM producers which say whether <em>their</em> memory module are compatible with some notebooks, but I hadn't found something like this for Samsung or Asus)?</li> </ol>

Asus k52f memory upgrade

<p>Your comment referencing a constant synchronization between the remote drive and your work files suggests that a software solution may serve your requirements. I use <a href="https://allwaysync.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Allway Sync</a> which supports network shared drives, NAS systems, etc and the configuration of a given backup plan allows for live/dynamic/instant synchronization, barring open file conflicts, although I believe that one can override that limitation as well.</p> <p>I'm aware there are other sychronizing programs on the market, but uncertain of the flexibility of configuration. Some are free and Allway Sync has a free trial with limitations. The cost of the Pro version isn't presenting itself on the linked site. I believe that I paid US$20, although it was so long ago, I would expect the price to have risen.</p>

18215

2023-10-24T02:22:53.000

|wireless|usb-c|

<p>I'm familiar with USB-C wireless transmitters/receivers for video/audio transfer, but are there any designed specifically for file transfer? I'm looking to connect one to an external hard drive, allowing me mobility with my laptop around my apartment while the drive rests on my console. Do such devices exist? Any recommendations or insights would be greatly appreciated.</p> <p>For context, I work with large-format graphic design files in programs such as InDesign, which require the files to be linked. It's getting to be too much for my internal HD, so I was hoping for something fast enough that I could continue to work on it as it is stored remotely.</p>

USB-C Wireless transmitter and receiver for file transfer?

<p>The price of SSDs has now dropped sufficiently that there is no longer any real need to have to consider HDs at all. They're bulky, delicate &amp; easy to damage by dropping etc.</p> <p>SSDs are 'unbreakable' in ordinary use - of course they may not stand up to being run over by a bus or dropped from a 3 storey building, but for daily knocks &amp; scrapes they should last 'forever'.<br /> The will wear out eventually, as will anything, and people seem to have this fear of them being 'used up' rapidly, because they do have a finite wear limit stated by the manufacturers. In practise this wear limit is not a particularly limiting factor, especially on larger drives. My own 1TB boot drive SSD is now nearly 9 years old &amp; still good according to SMART tests. It is in constant use on a computer that never even ever goes to sleep.</p> <p>So - find yourself a big box retailer*, something like Curry's in the UK or maybe Best Buy US &amp; get something from a name you've heard of.<br /> Samsung, SanDisk, Crucial, Seagate, WD etc</p> <p>UK prices are under £250 for 4TB.</p> <p>*Big box retailers will sell exactly what it says on the label. Amazon &amp; eBay etc, you're not always quite so sure of what you get. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.</p>

18224

2023-10-26T13:48:01.100

|usb|hard-disk|ssd|data-storage|reliability|

<p>So a bit over a year ago, I moved to a new laptop, and connected an external USB hard drive with the files from my old one. Since then, I used the external drive, labeled as <code>Elements (E:)</code>, as a second drive, leaving it plugged in at (nearly) all times, working directly out of it, and mapping several taskbar items, shortcuts, program settings, etc. to directories in the external drive. I'd run many programs from it, leave programs stored in it open for long stretches of time, use performance-heavy programs from it, and work in very deep directories (For example: <code>E:\****\****\****\****\****\****\****\****\****\****\</code>)</p> <p>For a while, this worked without issue, but eventually, the drive started automatically disconnecting during heavy use. After a while, it stopped doing it, but it came back again, and now it's just inevitable whenever I'm working off of the drive or using things on it for any moderate amount of time. Through some research, I've found out that the drive is very much meant for backups only, and not constant heavy usage, so I've been wanting to replace it with a different one more suited to the task.</p> <p>I'm planning to use Robocopy to move the files over from the original, since system images won't work because the drive disconnects partway through, and Robocopy <em>should</em> allow me to continue where I left off after it reconnects, and I'm planning to label the new drive as <code>Elements (E:)</code>.</p> <p>For context, my current external drive is a WD Elements 2TB portable HDD, connected by USB. It's 3.5&quot;, 5400rpm, &quot;Bus Powered,&quot; USB 2.0/3.0, and has a flash memory size of 2. My laptop is a ThinkPadT15p with 2 USB-A 3.2 Gen 1 ports, and is running on Windows 10. In spite of it being a laptop, I usually just leave it on my desk, only really moving it to one other place in the house when I have company or taking it with me when traveling.</p> <p>I've tried researching it myself, but I haven't really been able to find much information about what would fit my specific needs, and I'm not knowledgeable enough about how drives actually <em>work</em> to fully understand the differences between SSD and HDD, or to evaluate the specs of individual products. Again, I'd like it to effectively just be a second working drive, being available 100% or near 100% of the time, able to withstand heavy use, and at a similar speed to my current drive. It also needs to be <em>at minimum</em> 2TB, though it would be nice to upgrade to 3 or 4. That's just a nice-to-have though.</p> <p>In regards to budget, I'm willing to go up to around $300, maybe a bit past, but only if it's actually going to last at least a few years without having to be replaced. If I'm just going to have to replace it in a year again anyway, then I don't want to pay more than $100. However, if you have recommendations outside of my price range and feel that the ones in my price range won't adequately suit my needs, then I'd still appreciate if you mentioned that.</p>

USB External Drive fit for constant and heavy usage

<p>Just find out, with Romen's help, that the hardware I'm looking for is called a <strong>Wireless Multi-channel NVR</strong>. Not exactly a DVR.</p>

18235

2023-10-30T23:31:40.247

|monitors|camera|home-security|ip-camera|dvr|

<p>I installed some wireless IP cameras in my parents' house. They work great. The only problem, especially for them who are over 65 years old, is how to watch them quickly and easily.</p> <p>Currently, they need to open a slow mobile app or a computer, which may or may not be on at the time, whenever they hear a suspicious sound or someone at the door. By the time they finally manage to do it, it's almost always too late.</p> <p>Basically, what they need is some way to keep the camera images running all day on a monitor. Something that is very common for wired cameras.</p> <p>Is there any equipment or solution that allows this? Something like a DVR but for wireless IP cameras.</p> <p>I thought about buying a cheap laptop that would stay on 24/7 for this purpose, but it's hard to accept that there isn't a dedicated solution better than that. Can someone help me please?</p>

Solution for viewing wireless IP cameras in real time on a monitor

<p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/INIU-Charging-10500mAh-Portable-Flashlight/dp/B08JTQ66K7/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I'd recommend this INIU 10000 mAh battery bank</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsD3X.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsD3X.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <ul> <li>It's only 13 mm thick</li> <li>It's a little on the low side in terms of capacity (10000 mAh), but still within the range</li> <li>It supports USB-PD with 22.5 W of output, and QC 4.0</li> <li>It has dual Type-As and a Type-C</li> <li>It's available in the UK</li> <li>It's well built and from a reasonably well-known (if not super mainstream) brand. I personally use one of their higher capacity battery banks and it works great.</li> <li>It's inexpensive (under £20 after discounts)</li> </ul> <p>I'd consider <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0BZRWPBC6" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this 18000 mAh battery bank as well</a>, but it's from a less reputable brand and it isn't available in the UK.</p>

18239

2023-10-31T22:00:44.297

|power-bank|

<p>It's hard to find a product selector with the option to select on detailed product spec.</p> <p>I'm looking for a mobile phone power bank with roughly the following spec, although I could be flexible for &quot;near misses&quot;:</p> <ul> <li><strong>Size</strong> - Easily carried in jeans pocket with a phone or wallet, so probably slim (ish) - Id say 15mm ideally but I guess could consider up to 22mm (ish).</li> <li><strong>Capacity</strong> - Ideally 15,000 mAh but would consider 10 - 30.</li> <li><strong>Power and fast charging stats</strong> - Supports PD 3.0 and also any of QC 2.0/3.0/4.0 on outputs, able to charge 2 devices together, and some form of fast charge on input. Ideally 25+W output on PD (though most seem to deliver up to 20W so flexible) and 12+W on QC. Kinda &quot;not needing astronomical charge speeds but not sluggish either&quot;.</li> <li><strong>Connectors</strong> - USB A and USB C outputs (at least one of each). Dont care input.</li> <li><strong>Availability</strong> - Available in UK. (2nd hand used findable on EBay/Amazon is OK too)</li> <li><strong>Build quality</strong> - Decent brand or reviews, likely decent quality.</li> </ul> <p>Ive looked online but its hard to find that kind of info easily across current and recently discontinued models. Maybe someone knows more than I do what's around that might suit?</p>

Mobile power bank shortlist

<p><strong>The NV156FHM-N61 is an IPS panel.</strong></p> <p>TFT (thin-film-transistor) LCDs are the dominant panel technology for all LCDs. Both IPS and TN panels are types of TFT panels. In other words, all IPS panels are TFT panels, but not all TFT panels are IPS panels.</p>

18244

2023-11-02T09:18:16.553

|laptop|

<p>Recently I have decided to upgrade my laptop screen and after doing some research I have found <a href="https://www.panelook.com/NV156FHM-N61_BOE_15.6_LCM_overview_29824.html#NV156FHM-N61_Compatible_Models" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BOE NV156FHM-N61</a> as a candidate. One of the major reason i am upgrading is because my current display is TN panel and hence having severe viewing angle issue, so this candidate has to be <strong>IPS</strong> to resolve the problem. The confusion here is that the website i mentioned is saying that the panel type as <strong>a-si TFT</strong>, while others are saying its IPS, even my local shop is sayig it is IPS. I have heard TFT-LCD and IPS LCDs are completely different. Can somebody clear this confusion? also the panel i mentioned is really IPS or something alternative to IPS? I am looking for a <strong>REAL IPS</strong>, not any alternative.</p>

confusion between A-SI TFT vs IPS TFT

<h1>Panasonic ToughBook</h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wt9GS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wt9GS.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>As far as I'm aware, the Panasonic ToughBook series is the last remaining line of laptops that offers user <em>swappable</em> batteries (i.e. you can change the battery without disassembling the laptop.) Both the ToughBook 40 and ToughBook 55 models offer DVD and Blu-Ray drives.</p> <p>Intended as ruggedized &quot;do-everything&quot; laptops, these guys boast just about every type of I/O, along with IP54/66 water/dust and MIL-STD-810H/MIL-STD-461G environmental ratings (for the 55 and 40 respectively.) They also come with the thickness and price tags to match—these are not consumer-friendly thin-and-light laptops. For reference, the cheapest SKU with a DVD drive and Wi-Fi is the FZ-55FZ-1QAM, at a whopping $4,381—and that's without a second battery. The version with a Blu-Ray drive, the FZ-55FZ065AM, has an MSRP of $4,723. However, if you <em>really</em> want that swappable battery, it's your only option left. <strong>That said, I would ask you to consider if you could use an external DVD drive and a battery bank; it would probably be cheaper and lighter, provide a more versatile and performant experience, and be more pleasant to use day-to-day.</strong></p>

18254

2023-11-04T16:45:32.857

|laptop|

<p>After more than 10 years, my laptop is finally broken. Actually, it's been announced for about 2 years now, but all new laptops seem to have serious defects for me personally. There is no DVD drive and you can't simply remove the battery. I'm looking for a new laptop that doesn't have these two defects. The laptop should have an Intel processor.</p> <p>I don't pay any attention to weight or any design things at all, and I'm especially not a fan of Apple products. The laptop should have as large a hard drive as possible, but the access speed on it isn't that important, so I don't necessarily need an SSD. In addition, a proper graphics card wouldn't be bad, but it's not a must.</p> <p>To perhaps make it clearer why I need a DVD drive, I would like to install the operating system myself and then I would also be able to use the laptop as a portable DVD player.</p>

Laptop with DVD drive and removable battery

<h1>BOOX <a href="https://shop.boox.com/products/poke5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Poke5 ($170)</a>, <a href="https://shop.boox.com/products/leaf2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Leaf2 ($200)</a>, or <a href="https://shop.boox.com/products/page" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Page ($250)</a></h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/awo2b.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/awo2b.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><strong>Pros:</strong></p> <ul> <li>Android 11-based, with Google Play support</li> <li>microSD card slot to allow for extra storage</li> <li>Built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth 5.0 support</li> <li>E-ink screen with <em>optional</em> temperature-adjustable frontlight</li> </ul> <p><strong>Cons:</strong></p> <ul> <li>No cellular data support</li> </ul> <hr /> <p>While there are e-readers with cellular data support and built-in web browsers that can access Wikipedia—notably the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07F7TLZF4" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kindle Oasis ($250)</a>, which includes it for free—using a web browser to read Wikipedia on an e-reader is frequently a subpar experience:</p> <ul> <li>Most e-readers run semi-proprietary OSs, and typically their included web browsers are poorly supported.</li> <li>Because of their low refresh rate, e-ink screens don't work particularly well with modern scrolling-oriented web design, including Wikipedia's mobile layout. Though modern e-ink screens are much improved compared to older screens, they're still not going to be a great experience.</li> <li>Kindles—<a href="https://xkcd.com/548/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">though famed for free Wikipedia access, even on budget devices</a>—<a href="https://blog.the-ebook-reader.com/2022/05/10/wikipedia-lookup-no-longer-working-on-kindles/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">aren't actually</a> <a href="https://www.amazonforum.com/s/question/0D56Q0000BZa9thSQB/kindle-oasis-cannot-reliably-access-wikipedia" rel="nofollow noreferrer">very reliable</a> these days when it comes to accessing Wikipedia.</li> <li>You'll still be dependent on access to cellular data, which <a href="https://blog.the-ebook-reader.com/2019/02/03/cellular-coverage-for-kindle-ebook-readers-explained/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">isn't universal</a>. Furthermore, especially on budget devices like the Kindle, cellular data tends to be slow.</li> </ul> <p><strong>As such, I'd recommend using an offline version of Wikipedia.</strong> While you'll have to connect to Wi-Fi if you want to download the absolute latest copy of a page, Wikipedia isn't the kind of site where you need the latest updates all the time. In particular, I'd recommend using <a href="https://kiwix.org/en/applications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kiwix</a> to download and browse Wikipedia offline. Kiwix uses the open-source ZIM format¹, which supports hotlinks, images, formatting, and more; it's supported by the Wikimedia foundation; and it's available for a wide variety of platforms, including Android (via Google Play, F-Droid, or as an APK.) <strong><a href="https://kiwix.org/en/what-is-the-size-of-wikipedia/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">You can easily fit the entirety of English Wikipedia, with images, onto a 128 GB microSD card.</a></strong> Since all the BOOX models support microSD cards and run Andriod, you should have no problem loading Kiwix onto them. Plus, you can download other Kiwix libaries—<a href="https://library.kiwix.org/viewer#hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com_en_all_2023-11/questions" rel="nofollow noreferrer">including StackExchange</a>!</p> <p>Since the BOOX devices are intended as e-readers, they support plenty of e-book formats, and there's no restrictions on what stores or libraries you can use. Also, since they're running normal Android, you can also run whatever other apps you want, including your preferred PDF viewer/editor.</p> <hr /> <p>¹ While popular Kobo line of e-readers <a href="https://www.mobileread.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276219" rel="nofollow noreferrer">used to unofficially ZIM files</a>, this feature has been removed and no longer functions on firmwares released after 2016. Given that this method was always sort of sketchy and no longer functions at all without a lot of work, I can't recommend a Kobo.</p>

18261

2023-11-06T18:00:58.243

|e-reader|

<p>Is there an e-reader you'd recommend for reading Wikipedia? If so, why do you like that one?</p> <p>There is nothing quite like the wiki-linked articles Wikipedia offers for exploring non-fiction topics. But reading these articles from a self-lit LCD screen is much harder on my eyes than reading paper pages. For that reason I am looking for an e-reader that is not self-lit, enables access to Wikipedia, with easy navigation of wiki-links. I would likely also load PDFs onto the device - books and webpages I want to read offline.</p> <p>I don't know much about e-readers and will probably get a used one to avoid buying new electronics. Big bonus if it is a 'lower environmental impact' device.</p>

What E-reader is good for browsing Wikipedia and navigating its wiki-links?

<h1>I'd try adding an EAP610-Outdoor on the camera end</h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rWc1.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rWc1.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <ul> <li>Inexpensive - $130</li> <li><strong>IP67 rated</strong></li> <li>Wi-Fi 6 (though not 6E)</li> <li>Should integrate nicely with your existing TP Link access point using their mesh network functionality</li> <li><strong><a href="https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/3646/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Can be easily configured as a repeater</a></strong></li> <li>Amazon has free returns if it doesn't work :P</li> </ul> <p>Since most of the data is going from the cameras to the house, we want to add another access point near the cameras with solid TX power. Very roughly speaking, it's easier to receive than to transmit, so we're probably better off putting the powerful AP close to the cameras. We can then keep your EAP225-Outdoor close to your house, where it'll act primarily as a downlink for the EAP610.</p> <p>Some of the other options I considered but ultimately decided against:</p> <ul> <li>Ubiquiti AC Mesh Pro: although it's outdoor rated, they don't give an IP rating, and <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Ubiquiti/comments/l9ztmx/unifi_ap_ac_m_pro_is_not_so_outdoor/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">there's at least one report of it not doing so well.</a> Also, $200 for a Wi-Fi 5 AP is a little expensive these days—even if it's a pretty good one</li> <li>Ubiquiti U6 Long-Range: Only IP54 rated, and buying a separate enclosure would add to the cost significantly.</li> <li>Ubiquiti U6 Enterprise: 2x2 MIMO vs. the 4x4 in the U6 LR, and I still wouldn't trust IP65 fully out in the elements.</li> <li>Ruckus T310n: Would probably do a fantastic job thanks to its 30º beamed antenna, but at $500 each, it's tough to justify buying one—let alone the two I'd recommend, especially since you could get a Ubiquiti Building Bridge at that point.</li> <li>Aruba 570 series: Too expensive to justify (~$1000).</li> </ul>

18280

2023-11-13T22:31:22.263

|wifi|router|

<h2>The problem</h2> <p>I have an array of Wi-Fi cameras at a location very distant from my wireless router. I have installed an extender as near to the cameras as possible, but the connection is very slow (I believe the signal travels over 100 ft). At times, I also have a hotspot device which is much nearer and much faster. Unfortunately, these cameras (Wyze) can only be configured to connect to one wireless network at a time and so they have no automatic switching capability like smartphones.</p> <h2>Proposed solution</h2> <p>I would like a device that is able to connect to the extender (always available) and the hotspot (when available), then repeat the signal (whichever is stronger; the hotspot) with a single SSID - this way it appears to the cameras as just one network. I am unsure if this would cause issues due to the inconsistent IP addresses.</p> <p>I have not managed to find such a device searching the web, the closest I can think to do is to make my own “custom” router with e.g. a Raspberry Pi. Before I plunge into that, is there a pre-existing device like this?</p> <p>Thanks for your time.</p>

Looking for a device that can connect to multiple wireless networks and repeat the signal as one SSID

<p>You are correct, you can put larger drives in the slots, the 1TB is just what Lenovo offers as part of the spec. You will end up with the pre-installed SSD extra, since most laptop manufacturers don't offer to ship with no drive installed, but you can just turn it into an external drive with an inexpensive NVMe USB enclosure (Amazon or similar)</p> <p>I would also recommend having a look on youtube for &quot;Legion Pro 5 16IRX8 tear down&quot; guides so you know what you will need to do in order to replace the drives. A quick review shows there are several and the procedure looks pretty straight forward - , just make sure you fully shut down the laptop and disconnect the battery before you remove/replace SSDs.</p>

18282

2023-11-14T11:14:31.870

|laptop|ssd|

<p>I'm interested in purchasing a Lenovo Legion 5 laptop (Legion Pro 5 16IRX8). In the manufacturer's <a href="https://psref.lenovo.com/Product/Legion/Legion_Pro_5_16IRX8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">technical specifications sheet</a>, it is mentioned that the laptop has slots for 2 SSDs (Up to two drives, 2 x M.2 2280 SSD up to 1TB), but from what i can understand, this is just what Lenovo offers. Will SSDs with larger capacities work? I'm interested in adding 2x4TB SSDs (after purchase of course).</p>

Upgrading Lenovo Legion 5 to have 2 4TB SSDs

<h1>Don't use the same AP for both purposes</h1> <p>These are two very different use cases: a high-bandwidth, omnidirectional network for near the house, and a low-bandwidth, directional network for the shed. You'll be much better served by using two separate access points.</p> <h2>House: Ubiquiti U6 Enterprise - $279</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OtSKK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OtSKK.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>As far as I'm aware, there are currently no Wi-Fi 6 compatible DD-WRT access points/routers. I'm also not aware of any outdoor rated Wi-Fi 5 access points that are DD-WRT compatible. You could definitely still go with an indoor DD-WRT compatible access point, but I think there are better options.</p> <p>I'm recommending the Ubiquiti U6 Enterprise, since it's powerful with good coverage, supports Wi-Fi 6, is relatively easy to manage, isn't insanely expensive, and most importantly is IP65 rated so you can mount it outside (though I'd still put it under cover.) That said, if you don't like Ubiquiti there's plenty of other valid options; something from Ruckus or Aruba might be good, though likely more expensive. You could also use multiple inexpensive access points from someone like TP-Link.</p> <h2>Shed: Cambium Networks PTP 450 900 MHz - <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/266243287269" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$139 (used)</a></h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPkJ7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPkJ7.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Since it seems like you don't need a ton of bandwidth, but do need a lot of range and (more importantly) need to go through a lot of trees, I think a lower-frequency radio makes sense. Cambium is basically the only remaining manufacturer for 900 MHz radios (Ubiquiti used to make them, but no longer does.) You'll need one at each end, but given that budget doesn't seem to be a huge deal and these are fairly affordable used, I think it's a good strategy.</p> <p>You may also want to add Yagi directional antennas for better signal strength. Cambium makes a 12 dBi antenna (the N009045D003A - $100), but you could use any 900 MHz Yagi antenna.</p>

18285

2023-11-15T06:07:10.213

|wifi|networking|

<p>I’m looking to add an outdoor WiFi setup to my home with three goals in mind:</p> <ul> <li>Provide an outdoor access point for phones outside around the home.</li> <li>Create a WiFi bridge to a shed 200ft away. <ul> <li>There are a good number of trees between these buildings but I can do some selective trimming as needed to get as much line of sight as possible and I suppose a directional antenna is best too.</li> </ul> </li> <li>PoE powered.</li> <li>Something dd-wrt compatible would be really great too, but not strictly necessary.</li> </ul> <p>Here's a hastily drawn diagram:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcHMa.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcHMa.png" alt="crappy diagram" /></a></p> <p>Are there any systems that would accomplish both of these in one?</p>

Are there any outdoor WiFi bridge and access points in one device?

<p>Based on @Tetsujin's advice, I have decided on <code>HP Color LaserJet Enterprise MFP M480f</code>. The resolution is not as high as I was hoping, but in NZ, the prices are stupid. This was $1399+GST.</p> <p>After ordering it, I discovered there was no stock in NZ, delivery unknown. So I have bought <code>Brother MFCL8690CDW Colour Laser Multifunction Printer for Business / Education / Medical Centre</code>. This was much cheaper at $746+GST, and I very happy with it.</p>

18337

2023-12-09T00:39:11.973

|printer|scanner|

<p>I have been using Brother multifunction printers a for a long time. The latest one is <code>MFC27700</code>. Because it has a colour scanner and does reasonable black printing. And I have had a separate compact Fuji printer <code>CP305</code>.</p> <p>After the last android update, the new mobiles can no longer print to the Fuji. The old ones can, because the app is already installed. And I had promised the MFC to the boys when they shifted out to a flat, which is happening now.</p> <p>So, I am looking for combination laser printer/scanner for a home office</p> <ul> <li>Must be natively networkable</li> <li>Must scan in colour, at least 1200 dpi</li> <li>Must print in colour (and black)</li> <li>Must have separate black cartridge</li> <li>Must do double sided printing</li> <li>Only need A4 printing</li> <li>Reasonable print speed, the CP305 is rated upto 23ppm, so no slower</li> <li>Reasonable cost</li> <li>Small footprint</li> <li>Bonus if it can hold a ream of paper</li> <li>220-240V, don't want to use a separate transformer to step it down</li> <li>I prefer known brands</li> </ul>

Looking for a combination colour printer and colour scanner

<p>Turns out this was more difficult than I though it'd be to find. Apparently the search term I was missing was &quot;BC 1.2&quot;, short for the USB Battery Charging 1.2 Compliance Plan—the part of the spec that allows for higher current charing over USB, without USB-PD.</p> <h1>Hub</h1> <h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0819RPSMY" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wavlink UH3076 48W 7-port USB 3.0 hub</a> - $39.99</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecCaT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecCaT.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>As you've found, this (along with its harder-to-find 4-port sibling) appears to be the only USB-A hub with all 2.4A ports. A few other manufacturers also sell the same hub with their branding on it, but the Wavlink branded one is the most consistently available and cheapest. Hopefully you should be able to use at least 3-4 of the ports consistently at full power, even if you can't get all of them at 2.4A. You could try a higher amperage power supply (it's not going to hurt anything), but I certainly wouldn't guarantee it does anything.</p> <h1>Front panel</h1> <h2><a href="https://ezdiy-fab.com/products/5-25in-10gbps-usb-3-1-gen2-hub-and-type-c-port-front-panel" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EZDIY 5.25&quot; USB 3.1 Gen 2 Hub and Type-C Port Front Panel</a> - $41.99</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tnk1a.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tnk1a.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>It's not the most efficient solution in terms of ports/$: of the six ports it provides, only four provide data (though all provide at least 2.4A of charging.) That said, if you're going to be plugging and unplugging your devices frequently, the convenience of a front-panel solution might be worth the extra cost—even if cases with 5.25&quot; bays are harder to come by these days. Plus, it uses a USB 3.1 Gen 2 internal header, so you'll get a bit of extra bandwidth (even if that doesn't matter much.)</p> <h1>PCI-e cards</h1> <p>Setting aside the benefits of extra controllers/bandwidth, it's actually cheaper to just buy PCI-e cards than to buy hubs (strange as that is.) Given that these appear to be more reliable in terms of power delivery and how much cleaner this makes things, I figured I'd throw these in here as well.</p> <h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Y7KQ7KM" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FebSmart FS-U304C-Pro Quad USB-C Card</a> - $25.99</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQLBo.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQLBo.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>It sure isn't the quickest card in the world—it's using an older USB 3.0 controller—but it's quite cheap, and supplies 5V/3A to each port. Given that the Quest is natively a USB-C device anyways, a couple of these seems like it'd probably be the cleanest solution in my mind (assuming you have the PCI-e slots.)</p> <h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09BMBSPQM" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FebSmart FS-U3C2-Pro 5-port USB Card</a> - $29.99</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYJPl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYJPl.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>For a few dollars, you can trade two of the USB-C ports for three USB-A ports (plus an extra controller.) All ports still get 5V/3A of power. While FebSmart does make a few other cards, including a 5-port USB-A card, those only supply 5V/2A to each port, so I've left them out.</p> <h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0CCZ1W429" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sinefine Quad USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 Card with USB-PD</a> - $59.99</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3bYg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g3bYg.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>It's a bit pricier, but you get a lot more for your money. You get a proper ASMedia controller rated at 10 Gbps per port, with the top two ports supporting 30W USB-PD, and the bottom two supporting 45W USB-PD.</p>

18343

2023-12-12T07:22:57.873

|usb|

<p>I'm a VR developer and need to keep multiple headsets both connected to my computer (as clients) and powered - where their expected continuous draw will be &gt;2A, closer to 2.4 or 2.5A on average.</p> <p>What makes me nervous about most of the &quot;USB-PD breakout dongles&quot; on Amazon, advertising both USB3 data transfer and 100W PD capability, is that I have a hunch that the PD port is designed to also be the port connected to the host device. I don't want to plug one of those into my workstation just for it to try to backfeed 100W into my mobo - I want it to feed 100 (or 15, who's counting) watts to the VR headset while still treating the headset as the client.</p> <p>Do these devices work that way?</p> <p>Are there any (pro-level or not) <em>hubs</em> that are capable of supporting this data connection model while supplying this high power level to multiple ports at once? (I've seen numerous hubs that advertise 7 or even 10 &quot;2.4A&quot; ports but only come with a 48W power adapter - so clearly only capable of supplying full power to at most 4 ports concurrently.)</p>

USB hub with >=2.4A power *and* data

<p><a href="https://powerbank.zendure.com/products/supermini-x3-10000mah-portable-power-bank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Zendure SuperMini X3 10000mAh</a></p> <blockquote> <p>45W Power delivery output, […] weighs only 200g</p> </blockquote> <p>And this one is actually available right now although the US is crossed out and only CA shows availability -- Canada I guess.</p> <p>There's the <a href="https://www.mobicares.com/en/elecjet/apollo-pro-graphene-usb-c-pd-power-bank-9000mah-hong-kong-only" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Elecjet Apollo Pro</a> and while I can't find the exact weight it stands to reason this 9000mAh power bank can't be much more than 200g either. Alas, it seems to be a Hong Kong exclusive. The Elecjet Apollo Ultra has received widespread praise (or perhaps it's just puff pieces? hard to say but there are some positive posts on reddit too) but it seems it's no longer available either.</p> <p>Another would be the Excitrus Power Bank Air but is also gone so much so the myexcitrus.com page is now a parked domain. (I have an Excitrus 65W charger and it's great, verified by a teardown review.)</p> <p>4Smarts has a <a href="https://b2b.4smarts.eu/Power-Bank-Pocket-Slim-10000mAh-45W-white" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Power Bank Pocket Slim 10000mAh 45W</a> and I see a a few French sellers on eBay. As a bonus it even supports through charging although this <a href="https://b2b.4smarts.eu/media/image/product/5676/lg/540654%7E9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">image</a> suggests it only charges at 27W while discharging at 45W. The page doesn't have the weight, amazon.com claims 6.7oz or 190g.</p>

18345

2023-12-14T12:59:44.937

|power-bank|

<p>This used to exist, the <a href="https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/accessories/acc500091-lenovo-usb-c-laptop-power-bank-14000mah-g0a3140cxx-overview-and-service-parts" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo USB-C Laptop Power Bank</a> was 290g but it's discontinued. The <a href="https://eu.omnicharge.co/products/omni-mobile-12800" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Omni Mobile 12800</a> was 270g but it's discontinued as well.</p> <p>What alternatives are available end of 2023?</p> <p>The Nitecore NB20000 is 324.5g, I wonder whether we could do better.</p>

At least 45W power output at most 300g power bank?

<p>I have also searched and I was not surprised to land at microsatacables -- in all things SFF/PCIe and similar they are a well known and reliable vendor. They have a <a href="https://www.microsatacables.com/pcie-gen-4-oculink-sff-8611-to-u-3-sff-8639-cable-100cm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PCIe Gen 4 OCulink (SFF-8611) to U.3 (SFF-8639) Cable</a> and a <a href="https://www.microsatacables.com/u-3-female-sff-8639-to-mini-sas-hd-sff-8643" rel="nofollow noreferrer">U.3 Female (SFF-8639) to Mini SAS HD (SFF-8643)</a> cable.</p> <p>You can read more on U.3 <a href="https://utcc.utoronto.ca/%7Ecks/space/blog/tech/ServerNVMeU2U3AndOthers2022" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> which mentions</p> <blockquote> <p>A U.3 NVMe drive is backward compatible to U.2 drive bays</p> </blockquote> <p>so presumedly any U.2 cable would work too. We can create a single U.2 drive bay with a <a href="https://www.microsatacables.com/u-2-sff-8639-nvme-ssd-to-pci-e-4x-adapter-sff-1102-nvme" rel="nofollow noreferrer">U.2 SFF-8639 NVMe SSD to PCI-e 4X Adapter</a>. This is also available in cable format from adt-link, a well known company for PCIe risers: <a href="http://www.adt.link/product/R27V4.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PCI express 4.0 x4 to U.2 (SFF-8639) Extension Cable</a>.</p> <p>This <a href="https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/broadcom-9500-8i-nvme-u-2-u-3-tri-mode.39426/post-378297" rel="nofollow noreferrer">forum post</a> confirms</p> <blockquote> <p>the CBL-SAST-0956 cable works with my Micron 7450 Max U.3.</p> </blockquote> <p>The <a href="https://store.supermicro.com/supermicro-55cm-oculink-to-u-2-pcie-with-power-cable-cbl-sast-0956.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CBL-SAST-0956</a> is an OCULink - U.2 cable.</p> <p>So no matter how you get four PCIe lanes off the motherboard, be it a PCIe 4.0 x4 slot, an U.2 connector or an OCUlink connector there is a cable for it -- just get the U.2 cable if nothing else is available.</p>

18350

2023-12-16T20:16:37.057

|ssd|desktop|drive-enclosure|

<p>I'm contemplating the use of U.3 drives in my next desktop PC build, although I have no direct experience with them. (The reason for considering them is largely because I want to be able to run at least some of them in RAID 1 and rotate the drives out periodically; having hot-swap capability would also be nice. Given that M.2 drives are generally right on the motherboard, swapping them out is much less convenient. My current build uses SATA drives but they are now unacceptably slow, relative to the NVMe competition.)</p> <p>I have found some U.3 enclosures for between 2 and 6 drives (also some U.2, and indeed some say they can do both). These are typically 5.25 inch units with front-opening ports for inserting/removing drives.</p> <p>The cabling also seems to be straightforward, though I confess I've slightly glossed over that part so far.</p> <p>However, connecting the drives to the motherboard is less obvious, as I can't find U.3 host adapters. I strongly suspect I'm missing the point somewhere, so this is the main point on which I'd really appreciate some guidance...</p> <p>I have found multiple different PCIe x16 cards which have 4 SFF-8643 connections, but all of these say they are for U.2 drives. Since I have read that U.3 drives can be used in U.2 backplanes (but not vice-versa), perhaps such cards would actually be an acceptable way to proceed? (Perhaps they are the only way to proceed in fact?!) I've yet to find a single U.3 PCIe card, which baffles me.</p> <p>I'll note that I've also found adapters which allow an M.2 drive to be converted to U.3 (or U.2) form factor. I would certainly consider using these as part of my setup (it seems to be slightly easier/cheaper to buy M.2 drives than U.3 in the &lt;= 4 TB range), since with a multi-drive enclosure I'd still get the benefits of easily swapping out drives, and I'd just need as many adapters as M.2 drives to keep things really simple. (I don't yet know if this would permit hot-swapping.)</p> <p>(Regarding the actual enclosures, cables, PCIe cards (etc.) that I've found, I'm not sure it's OK to insert links to commercial offerings here so I'll not do that right now, but happy to add some if this is permitted.)</p> <p>PS: I have also found PCIe cards onto which a single U.3 drive can be mounted, but I don't see much benefit in these for my application. PPS: this is my first question on this part of the network, and I'm hoping this is the right place to ask it...</p>

Using U.3 drives in a desktop PC

<h1><a href="https://www.keychron.uk/collections/keychron-uk-iso-layout-keyboards/products/keychron-q1-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection?variant=44673713012906" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Keychron Q1 Pro (ISO)</a> - £159.00 (barebones), £176.00 (with switches and keycaps)</h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHH3O.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHH3O.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>This is going to be your best, no-compromises all-rounder. It's got every feature you could want in a classic keyboard, and at a pretty reasonable price.</p> <ul> <li>Classic 75% layout, with a small knob</li> <li>Full CNC aluminum construction</li> <li>Supports wired or wireless (Bluetooth 5.1) operation, with an included 4000 mAh mattery</li> <li>Hot-swappable switches; includes either Keychron Red or Keychron Brown switches in the assembled version, with your choice of keycaps</li> <li>Fully programmable using QMK &amp; VIA, rather than proprietary software</li> <li>No palm rest included, can be added later if you change your mind</li> <li>ISO layout; included keycaps are UK-specific. Includes keycaps for both Windows and macOS.</li> </ul> <h1><a href="https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-th80?variant=40312374034505" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Epomaker TH80 Pro</a> - <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/EPOMAKER-Swappable-Mechanical-South-Facing-Compatible/dp/B0BMPP6YXG/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">£65.99 (barebones)</a>, <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/EPOMAKER-Bluetooth-Mechanical-Keyboard-Flamingo/dp/B0BGXD2F3Y/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">£85.99 (with switches and keycaps)</a></h1> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PlOdO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PlOdO.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The build quality on this keyboard isn't quite as fancy as the Keychron Q1 Pro—it's a plastic chassis, and the included keycaps are PBT with dye-sublimation instead of double-shot ABS—but for the price, it's real hard to complain. In any case, it should still beat your K70 by a mile (although it's not liquid proof :P).</p> <ul> <li>Classic 75% layout, with a small knob</li> <li>Plastic chassis with steel plate</li> <li>Supports wired or wireless (Bluetooth 5.0 <em>or 2.4 GHz with a dongle</em>) operation, with an included 3000 mAh battery</li> <li>Hot-swappable switches; includes either Epomaker Flamingo (Linear), Epomaker Budgerigar (Tactile), or Gateron Pro Yellow (Linear) switches in the assembled version, with your choice of keycaps</li> <li>Fully programmable with support for up to three layers, but requires proprietary software</li> <li>No palm rest</li> <li>ISO layout; included keycaps are <em>not</em> UK-specific. If this is a dealbreaker, you can always go with the barebones kit and choose your own switches/keycaps.</li> </ul> <h1>Honorable mentions</h1> <ul> <li>SKYLOONG GK75 Triple-Mode for high customizability; however, the wireless version (triple mode) doesn't seem to come in an ISO layout</li> <li>Ajazz AK820 for being extremely cheap at $50; however, I can't find an ISO layout</li> <li>Wooting, the reigning &quot;best gaming keyboard&quot;; however, the 80HE (TKL layout) is still in the preorder stage and doesn't support wireless</li> </ul>

18371

2023-12-29T18:40:54.447

|keyboards|

<p>I've had a Corsair K70 RGB Pro for my laptop for quite a while. However, a recent accident with a coffee cup has, sadly, ended that one's use. I need a good, new, mechanical keyboard, which will be used for coding and a little bit of gaming. It must be wireless, and I don't really want a palm rest because my desk is a little too small for a laptop and a massive keyboard, I don't care about RGB, whether it has it or not, and it must be a Windows layout. I don't really mind on the size, but I'd prefer a TKL keyboard now, just because I never use the numpad. Any suggestions? UK QWERTY please Budget is anywhere up to ~£170</p>

New Mechanical Keyboard for Coding

<blockquote> <p>Do you guess VRAM requirements will be reduced?</p> </blockquote> <p>no. problem sizes will only become larger in the future, requiring more VRAM on the GPU if a GPU is to be used. They may refine the code (llama2.cpp, llama.c) to be more memory efficient but i doubt that will compare to the inherent memory required based on model size and model size will always become larger.</p> <blockquote> <p>Do you guess VRAM will be increasable with RAM ([i am thinking] because Apple M3</p> </blockquote> <p>not sure what you are asking. yes VRAM on nvidia cards will increase in the future, just like anything else and has we have noticed over the years starting from 1,2,4 gb now up to around 32gb per pcie card such as a RTX 4000 series now has. Will it coincide with DRAM DIMMS that are modular and allows someone to plug in and upgrade I do not think so. Will VRAM get up to 64gb and 128gb like we see on consumer motherboards probably. Will VRAM approach the ~768gb RAM limit of the x86-64 cpu currently, I think it is possible for a niche market but not for the consumer market.</p> <blockquote> <p>What do you think about this problems</p> </blockquote> <p>Large Language Models (LLM) which I know little about, a quick internet search responds with <em>Running large language models on a home PC? - You will need at least 350GB GPU memory on your entire cluster to serve the OPT-175B model.</em></p> <p>So it will depend on your LLM that you are playing with and what VRAM requirements you are dealing with. Playing with LLM's seems to be highly VRAM dependent, 350gb and mention of <em>cluster</em> gives the distinct impression that processing LLM's at home is not easily done and if so on very small models.</p> <p>you also mentioned <strong>docker</strong>, which is in regards to containerization, I would look into being sure that running in a cloud instance with containers that the clustered (more than one) VRAM of many GPGPU's is actually accessible, that may be a reason why you are seeing errors such as <em>VRAM not enough</em>. Make sure the amount of VRAM reported within the container (docker) is correct.</p> <blockquote> <p>Which GPU would you choose?</p> </blockquote> <p>of the three you listed the one with the most RAM, but if that's 16gb, or even 32gb, and LLM's generally need &gt; 100gb or whatever then recognize that reality and understand the VRAM needs for whatever LLM's you are working with. Current market price of a used Nvidia V100 gpgu having 16gb can be found around $1000 USD, they do come as 32gb and new is up to around $5000 USD, and that is with them a few generations old now (turing, ampere, current is now hopper). You would need ~4 V100's to have &gt; 100gb of [distributed] VRAM possible along with the associated hardware to connect those. Saying <em>low-budget</em> and <em>LLM</em> in the same sentence is not realistic (yet).</p>

18378

2024-01-01T13:45:12.603

|graphics-cards|nvidia|

<h3>What I want?</h3> <p>I want to buy a GPU for amateurly using and fine-tuning LLMs or LMMs. I don't have enough money for buying RTX4090. I can buy RTX4060 TI 16GB VRAM or RTX4070 12GB VRAM. But i am so confused.</p> <h3>Why I am confused?:</h3> <p>When I tried to use LLMs on a 15 VRAM GPU azure cloud instance with vLLM docker images, So many LLM didn't work because VRAM not enough errors thrown from CUDA. I understood VRAM too important for using LLM with CUDA. RTX4060 slower but have more VRAM, RTX4070 faster but have less VRAM. Actually I don't need high speed because I don't have a real time process problem.</p> <p>If I have RTX4070 But I never use Mistral 7b (with awq or not). Then this is expensive garbage.</p> <h3>What should I do?</h3> <ul> <li>Do you guess VRAM requirements will be reduced? (like llama2.cpp, llama.c)</li> <li>Do you guess VRAM will be increasable with RAM ([i am thinking] because Apple M3 have too much RAM than GPUs. So Nvidia release an update to increase VRAM from RAM.)</li> <li>Have you ever use this GPU, Then share me your experiences pls.</li> <li>What do you think about this problems?</li> <li>Which GPU would you choose? RTX4060 TI 16GB VRAM or RTX4070 12GB VRAM?</li> </ul>

Which Low Budget GPU is Better (RTX4060 TI 16GB VRAM or RTX4070 12GB VRAM) For LLM, LMM Using And Fine-Tuning?

<p>That Crucial and Samsung SSD are fine, although I personally have preference on the Crucial MX500. Here in Belgium it's pretty cheap, it will fit on any spot where there used to be a SATA HDD, and is availible in capacities between 250GB and 4TB. It also has a DRAM cache which makes it so things slow down less under heavy load. Although the price has increased lately, it's still an okay price since it's high quality (€80 for the 1TB model)</p>

18385

2024-01-03T18:38:34.683

|laptop|gaming|ssd|

<p>I have had some problems with my laptop recently, and I wanted to change the current hard disk drive. On task manager, the hard disk drive is labelled as ST1000LX015-1U7172. From Googling, I understand that this is a 2.5 inch SATA Internal SSHD Hard Drive with 7 mm Form Factor. I am looking to replace this with an SSD.</p> <p>I was worried about compatibility, and I just wanted to ask for advice on here as to whether what these SSDs may fit in place of the current HDD, and if you have any recommendations.</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09WDHQ1Y5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bliksem SSD 1TB SATA III internal Solid State Drive 2.5″ 7mm(0.28″)</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YD579WM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Crucial BX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.ebuyer.com/1139123" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung EVO 1TB SATA 2.5&quot; Internal Solid State Drive</a></li> </ul> <p>My laptop is a <a href="https://www.notebookcheck.net/Asus-ROG-Strix-G531GU-AL018.444491.0.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ROG Strix G531GU</a> for context. Thank you!</p>

Upgrade HDD to SSD for ROG Strix G531GU

<h2>I don’t think USB-C charging can be universal across devices.</h2> <h3>This is not a charger or cable issue, but the manufacturers of basic consumer products do not set their devices with proper power negotiation circuits. Not much can be done in cases like that.</h3> <p>I think the issue is the basic consumer products you are attempting to charge can only charge a 5 volts at 1 amp (5W) and cannot negotiate with a higher wattages wall charger.</p> <p>I say this without having solid specs on this, but I personally have converted to all USB-C items on my MacBook Air and have some items that can technically charge via USB-C but only do so when I connect them to a 5W USB-A charger. Items like a no-name “Aidisun” <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09JBMH2NG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">bike flashlight</a> and such.</p> <p>Look at what your KOOPAO (!?!) can charge at:</p> <h4>USB-C PD (Power Delivery)</h4> <ul> <li><strong>5V/3A</strong>: 15W</li> <li><strong>9V/2.25A</strong>: 20.25W</li> <li><strong>12V/1.67A</strong>: 20.04W</li> </ul> <h4>USB-A QC 3.0 (Quick Charge 3.0)</h4> <ul> <li><strong>5V/3A</strong>: 15W</li> <li><strong>9V/2.25A</strong>: 20.25W</li> <li><strong>12V/1.5A</strong>: 18W</li> </ul> <p>Nowhere does it say “5V/1A” but somehow that comes through with the USB-A connection?</p> <p>It baffles me, but my bet would be that all of the consumer products you mention:</p> <ul> <li>Xiberia G01 Gaming Headphones</li> <li>Bose QC 45 noise cancelling headphones</li> <li>Momcozy white noise machine</li> </ul> <p>While they might have a USB-C connection, they can only work with USB-A connections because the manufacturers somehow did not set their devices with proper power negotiation circuits? They are effectively “dumb” USB devices that can only take what they are given but only if not above a certain (5 volts at 1 amp) wattage?</p> <p>I wouldn’t waste time with new cables or even a new charger. Sorry to say, I don’t believe the promise of USB-C charging across devices exists. Especially when makers of USB-C chargers and devices that claim to be cable of USB-C charging are so opaque about power requirements.</p> <hr /> <p>FWIW, I just tried this out but if I connect a USB-A (Male) to USB-C (Male) to a USB-A (Female) to USB-C (Male) adapter I can successfully charge by crappy “Aidisun” bike flashlight. According to my USB-C power meter, power is sent at 2.5W (5V/0.5A) which is pretty low.</p> <p>So I wonder if this the case where some consumer devices that have USB-C power adapters charge at 2.5W (5V/0.5A) but somehow can’t negotiate with higher wattage AC adapters? Like if it is less than 5W (5V/1A) on pure USB-C to USB-C it doesn’t know what to do?</p> <p>My guess is your USB-C to USB-C charging problems won’t go away with a new AC adapter because the problem is ultimately with the consumer devices themselves.</p>

18391

2024-01-04T22:13:27.220

|usb-c|power|

<p>I have these devices that use USB-C to charge:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08J82VNSW" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xiberia G01 Gaming Headphones</a></li> <li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B098FKXT8L" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bose QC 45 noise cancelling headphones</a></li> <li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B099RSXLGH" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Momcozy white noise machine</a></li> </ul> <p>This is the wall power adapter I am trying to use to charge the headphones and the baby sound machine via a USB-C to USB-C cable, but it does not work.</p> <p>My question is:</p> <h3>What wall power adapter can I use instead of the KOOPAO adapter to charge all items via USB-C to USB-C?</h3> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B099W69QL6" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099W69QL6</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4ADe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4ADe.png" alt="USB-A and USB-C power adapter" /></a></p> <p>The headphones and sound machine only charge if I use a USB-A (for the wall outlet) to USB-C cable (pictured below).</p> <p>I just bought brand new Anker cables, so I know they cannot all be defective.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNonL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNonL.png" alt="USB-A and USB-C cable" /></a></p>

Can USB-C charging be universal across devices? Compatibility does not seem to work. Would the issue be with USB-C cable or USB-C wall power adapter?

<h2>The RTX 3050 <em>mobile</em> has either 4 GB or 6 GB of VRAM depending on your variant. The <em>desktop</em> version has 8 GB of VRAM. The 4 GB variant of the RTX 3050 mobile is also substantially slower.</h2> <p>It's fair to say Nvidia's graphics card marketing names suck. To make a long story short, laptop graphics cards and desktop graphics cards generally aren't the same—i.e. an RTX 3080 (desktop) is not the same chip as a RTX 3080 (laptop), and won't perform the same. Even if they were the same chip, modern GPUs are typically power and thermal limited; thus, in a laptop, any GPU can only perform as well as that laptop's cooling allows it. The TL;DR of this is that the only reliable benchmark for laptop GPU performance is... a benchmark of that specific laptop with that specific GPU. Which sucks, and is crazy confusing for consumers, but that's where we've ended up.</p> <p>That said, we can at least get a vague benchmark by comparing what hardware is in each laptop; generally, the easiest way to do this is by looking at GPU chip code names, such as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_30_series#Laptop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Wikipedia table for the GeForce 30 series.</a></p> <p>As you can see, the GeForce RTX 3050 Laptop always uses a GA107 chip (the same as <a href="https://www.tomshardware.com/news/nvidia-geForce-rtx-3050-uses-ga106-silicon" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><em>some</em>, but not <em>all</em> desktop RTX 3050s</a>, but that's another can of worms.) However, where the desktop card comes with 8 GB of VRAM, the mobile version can come with <em>either</em> 4 GB of 6 GB of VRAM. Even more confusingly, the 4 GB version of the card <em>is also a slower version of the GA107 chip</em>, with fewer CUDA cores and stream processors. Eesh.</p> <p>Anyways, all this to say: despite having the same name, they're not the same really. It's marketing. <strong>The best we can do is provide you with a more specific laptop recommendation, given your budget and your needs.</strong> If you can edit your post with this information, we can help you better.</p>

18414

2024-01-07T21:44:44.333

|laptop|graphics-cards|memory|

<p>I'm inspecting NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050. According to <a href="https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/graphics-cards/30-series/rtx-3050/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the NVIDIA official web</a>, this card has 8GB memory. However, some laptops that state have this card, also say it has 4 GB. For instance, <a href="https://www.hp.com/gb-en/shop/product.aspx?id=6P128EA&amp;opt=ABU&amp;sel=NTB" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Victus 15</a>. I have inspected some of those NVIDIA itself advertises (see <a href="https://store.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/store/laptop/?page=1&amp;limit=9&amp;locale=en-gb&amp;gpu=RTX%203050&amp;category=LAPTOP&amp;category_filter=GPU%7E0,LAPTOP%7E0,STUDIO-LAPTOP%7E0,DESKTOP%7E0,MONITOR%7E0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this list</a>), and the same happens.</p> <p>So does the RTX3050 have 4GB or 8 GB? If the mentioned card has 2 versions, is there any laptop finder that allows to specify how many graphic card's GB I want?</p>

Difference, in graphic cards memory, between NIVIDA official page and laptop specifications

<p>A <a href="https://www.simcom.com/product/SIM7600X-H.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SIM7600X-H</a> device fits the requirements; it's 4G LTE (Cat. 4) and works in North America.</p> <p>See <a href="https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/SIM7600X_4G_Module" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Waveshare.com's SIM7600X 4G Module wiki page</a>.</p>

18437

2024-01-18T03:12:32.557

|gateway|

<p>Where can I find some hardware SMS gateways (GSM modems?)? <a href="https://smseagle.eu/store/en/devices/9-61-smseagle-nxs-9700-3g.html#/27-extended_warranty-2_year/35-plug_type-us" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SMSEagle's</a> seem good, but I'm looking for something cheaper and without many bells and whistles.</p> <p>The <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B087Z6F953" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SIM800C</a> below claims to &quot;Support 2G 3G 4G SIM Card&quot;, but I don't think it does; I am looking for something it, though, but for 4G LTE or 5G:</p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B087Z6F953" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIWUC.jpg" alt="SIM800C" /></a></p>

Hardware SMS gateways?

<blockquote> <p>How do I do determine if the NVIDIA RTX A6000 will fit in the case?</p> </blockquote> <p>The specific model of the <a href="https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/design-visualization/rtx-a6000/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A6000</a> that you linked says it is 10.5&quot; long. If you're shopping for a different manufacturer/model of A6000 just make note of the length from that manufacturer's specifications webpage.<br /> Your case is the <a href="https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/meshify/meshify-2-xl-dark-tempered-glass/dark-tempered-glass/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Meshify 2 XL</a> which fits GPUs up to 13.3&quot; (340mm) so there is no concern here about whether the A6000 will fit. FYI this case can fit even longer GPUs if you remove the metal structure for the hard drives, then it can fit practically any GPU ever.</p> <blockquote> <p>How do I determine if my current motherboard is compatible with the NVIDIA RTX A6000?</p> </blockquote> <p>The RTX A6000 requires a PCIe 16x slot, ideally that should be PCIe 4.0 but the GPU is backwards compatible. The physical dimensions of PCIe has never changed, and they almost always have forwards &amp; backwards compatibility to allow old motherboards to use new GPUs, or old GPUs to work in new motherboards.<br /> Your motherboard is new enough to have PCIe 4.0 so there is no concern about losing performance anyway. The A6000 will fit and it will be compatible with the motherboard.</p> <blockquote> <p>How do I determine if my current CPU is compatible with my the NVIDIA RTX A6000?</p> </blockquote> <p>There isn't really a case where a specific CPU and GPU would be incompatible unelss it's something unusual like vendor-locked hardware for servers, or an engineering sample that's missing entire features. In general you can trust that any retail consumer CPU will support any GPU, there are standards to ensure this stuff &quot;just works&quot;.</p> <blockquote> <p>How do I determine if my current PSU will provide optimal power for entire build, (once the NVIDIA RTX A6000 is added)?</p> </blockquote> <p>The specs page for the A6000 (again, make note of the specs for whatever model you actually buy) says it can draw up to 300W of power.<br /> Your CPU and the other components in the system can probably draw near 200W, so the total power required for everything to run at peak load would be somewhere around 500 to 600 Watts.<br /> Your power supply is already a whopping 1600W which is enough to be using multiple A6000 GPUs if you wanted.</p>

18441

2024-01-18T18:10:39.757

|graphics-cards|motherboard|pc|

<p>Back in early 2022 my brother built my amazing PC for me, sadly he is no longer with us.</p> <p>He was the always the hardware guy and I was software guy. So I am out of my depth but I really want to figure it out.</p> <p>I am looking to upgrade to a GPU that is much more optimal for my line of work, which is cleaning and editing dense scanned 3D data (Photogrammetry). A lot of the workstations at my workplace use the <a href="https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/design-visualization/rtx-a6000/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NVIDIA RTX A6000</a> and I really like its performance.</p> <p>I want to upgrade my GPU to the A600, but I am having a hard time figuring out if the other parts of my PC will be compatible with it.</p> <p>My current build consists of:</p> <ul> <li>CPU - <a href="https://www.amd.com/en/products/cpu/amd-ryzen-9-5950x" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ryzel 9 5950x</a></li> <li>GPU - <a href="https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/graphics-cards/30-series/rtx-3090-3090ti/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nvidia RTX3090</a> (Not the 3090 Ti)</li> <li>Motherboard - <a href="https://www.asus.com/uk/motherboards-components/motherboards/proart/proart-x570-creator-wifi/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus ProArt X570-CREATOR WIFI</a></li> <li>Power Supply - <a href="https://amzn.eu/d/7EdA3fV" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Seasonic PRIME-TX-1600</a></li> <li>Case - <a href="https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/49bCmG/fractal-design-meshify-2-xl-atx-full-tower-case-fd-c-mes2x-01" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL ATX Full Tower Case</a></li> <li>Memory - 128GB of RAM</li> <li>8TB of <a href="https://amzn.eu/d/dKYXGWT" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung SSD</a></li> </ul> <p>How do I do determine if the NVIDIA RTX A6000 will fit in the case?</p> <p>How do I determine if my current motherboard is compatible with the NVIDIA RTX A6000?</p> <p>How do I determine if my current CPU is compatible with my the NVIDIA RTX A6000?</p> <p>How do I determine if my current PSU will provide optimal power for entire build, (once the NVIDIA RTX A6000 is added)?</p> <p>Any help and insight would be most appreciated!</p>

Does my motherboard support the NVIDIA RTX A6000 GPU?

<p>The breakout cables are directional.</p> <p>If you choose to bypass the backplane, the forward breakout cable is what you need. You can search for the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08C2LJBLW" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SFF-8643 (Host) to 4X SATA (Target) or forward breakout Cable on Amazon</a>.</p> <p>If you choose to bypass the HBA/RAID card, you can use the ThinkServer OEM reverse breakout cable FRU 00HV802.</p>

18450

2024-01-21T19:17:20.807

|hard-disk|server|power-supply|sata|power|

<p>First-time asker here (let me know if there's a better stack for this)</p> <p>I recently bought a secondhand Lenovo ThinkServer TS460, intending to run a home media server on it using UnraidOS. Here's Lenovo's <a href="https://lenovopress.lenovo.com/lp0587-ts460-intel-xeon-e3-1200-v5-core-i3-pentium-g-series" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Product Guide</a>. The specific machine that I bought came with a RAID Controller (It appears to be the ThinkServer RAID 520i PCIe Adapter) connected to a board via MiniSAS that connects to all four available disk bays via SATA, and powers the four disks via this 8-pin connector (the port it connected to is labelled BP8_PWR_CON1). Here's some pictures:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnIor.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnIor.jpg" alt="The motherboard minus the RAID Controller" /></a></p> <p>The motherboard minus the RAID Controller</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Hm6w.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Hm6w.jpg" alt="The RAID Controller PCIe Adatpter" /></a></p> <p>The RAID Controller PCIe Adatpter</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XECGz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XECGz.jpg" alt="The &quot;front&quot; of the board that bridges the four disk bays to the RAID Controller - note the MiniSAS Port and the 8-pin power cable" /></a></p> <p>The &quot;front&quot; of the board that bridges the four disk bays to the RAID Controller - note the MiniSAS Port and the 8-pin power cable</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cd0Ws.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cd0Ws.jpg" alt="The &quot;back&quot; of that board - note the four SATA ports for the disks" /></a></p> <p>The &quot;back&quot; of that board - note the four SATA ports for the disks</p> <p>The power supply is actually a pair of hot-swappable redundant 450 W AC (100 - 240 V) Modules (from the product guide: probably Lenovo's ThinkServer 450W Hot Swap Redundant Power Supply). The power supplies slot into a board that has all the power ports for the motherboard components: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTze4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTze4.jpg" alt="Board bridging power supplies and power ports" /></a></p> <p>UnraidOS specifically states in their docs that it <a href="https://docs.unraid.net/unraid-os/faq/os-faq/#does-unraid-support-hardware-based-raid-controllers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">doesn't really support the use of hardware-based RAID controllers</a>, but I figured that's ok - I'll just pull out the RAID controller and the board that connects to it via MiniSAS and connect my disks to the four available SATA ports on the motherboard. However I can't find a port to power the SATA connections. The product guide says that up to four disks are supported via the on-motherboard SATA ports, so it seems that what I want to do is in-spec. My understanding is that I'm looking for a 4-pin port (ideally labeled SATA pwr or something like that), but I don't see one...</p> <ol> <li>Am I missing the obvious (hello - it's right there!)?</li> <li>If not - is there a cable or something that I can get to provide power with any of the ports?</li> </ol> <p>Open to other creative suggestions, Thanks</p>

How can I power SATA HDDs given this motherboard?

<p>Yes. I recommend the <em><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07WBXP632" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sintech M.2 M-Key M.2 Key E Module,NGFF WiFi Card to M.2 Key M Adapter Card</a></em>.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6m9x.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6m9x.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>It is worth noting that under certain conditions PCI-e lane allocation may mean that if you use both M.2 slots, some PCI-e slots may have reduced (or no) bandwidth. As such, you may or may not actually get any benefit compared to using the &quot;normal&quot; PCI-e adapter card that's typically included with standalone Wi-Fi cards. If you can provide your exact motherboard, we can provide more specific information.</p>

18451

2024-01-21T22:31:44.057

|wifi|compatibility|m.2|

<p>My search engine queries turn up a lot of result for the reverse, whether it's possible to use the Wi-FI M.2 slot for an M.2 SDD (e.g. NVMe).</p> <p>The computer I ordered has an NVMe M.2 slot and a 2.5 HDD SATA connector. Since I don't have any NVMe disks, I'm thinking of connecting my M.2 SATA SSD (which I currently use via an external USB enclosure) to the 2.5 HDD SATA connector using an M.2 to SATA adapter.</p> <p>This leaves me with a single free M.2 slot. Is this NVMe M.2 slot compatible with, say, Intel AX20x0-based Wi-Fi cards? Can I use the SSD M.2 slot for a Wi-Fi card?</p>

Can I use the SSD M.2 slot for a Wi-Fi card?

<h1>Wait a few weeks</h1> <p>Intel and AMD just released new laptop chips, in the form on Meteor Lake (Core Ultra) and Hawk Point (Ryzen 8000) chips respectively at CES 2024. A bunch of laptop manufacturers debuted or announced laptops with these chips at CES, but most of them either aren't out yet, aren't widely available, or target a higher end price point then you're looking.</p> <p>As such, in the coming weeks, I'd expect there to be two classes of laptops that work well for you:</p> <ul> <li>New releases, mostly based on Meteor Lake, that you can pick up for the latest and greatest experience. These will probably come with the better battery life of Meteor Lake, and several generational improvements, but will still feature the same GPUs as &quot;last generation&quot; laptops.</li> <li>Discounted &quot;previous generation&quot; laptops, mostly based on Raptor Lake. <em>These laptops will probably outperform the new laptops on a $/performance basis at your price point, but will be less power efficient in doing so, especially with multithreaded, CPU-bound tasks.</em> Meteor Lake currently tops out at the 185H with 6P/8E/2LP-E cores, where most gaming laptops in your price point went for chips with 8P/12-16E cores last generation. Since the GPUs are the same for both the previous generation and the current generation, your performance in most games should be about the same for a given model of GPU.</li> </ul> <p>Many of the former category just aren't available yet—especially in the UK. Conversely, getting a good deal in the second category may take a little deal-hunting with your local retailers, as they try to clear out stock to make way for new models.</p> <p>Alright, with that said, let's get into some of the contenders. This really isn't an exhaustive list just due to the fluid nature of the market at the moment, but I'll go over a few that I think are worth looking at.</p> <h1>New releases</h1> <h2><a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/gaming-laptops/alienware-m16-r2-gaming-laptop/spd/alienware-m16-r2-laptop/useashbtsm16r2mtlgrrx#tech-specs-anchor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell Alienware m16 R2</a> - $1850</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IaJH9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IaJH9.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <ul> <li>Intel Core Ultra 7 155H (6P/8E/2LP-E cores @ up to 4.80 GHz on the P cores)</li> <li>RTX 4070 (mobile)</li> <li>2x8 GB of DDR5-5600 (socketed, so it is upgradable)</li> <li>1 TB M.2 NVME</li> <li>16.0&quot; 2560x1600 @ 240Hz IPS panel</li> <li>Intel BE202 Wi-Fi 7 2x2 and Bluetooth 5.4</li> <li>90 Wh battery with 240W barrel-jack power adapter</li> </ul> <p>Compared to some of the other offerings we've seen in the past year or so from other vendors, the m16 R2 isn't anything crazy. It's using a solid display, but not an OLED; it's not huge, but not small; it's not bad looking, but it's not sleek (IMO.) Still, it's a nice step forward, bring a much reduced footprint compared to the previous generation m16. And, for the price, it's pretty good value for the latest Dell has to offer... except, that as far as I can tell, it's not available in the UK yet. I'd expect it to come soon, but I don't have a definitive timeline.</p> <h2>Asus ROG Zephyrus G16 (2024) GU605 - ???</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6sHxA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6sHxA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <ul> <li>(Up to) Intel Core Ultra 7 185H (6P/8E/2LP-E cores @ up to 5.10 GHz on the P cores)</li> <li>(Up to) RTX 4090 (mobile)</li> <li>(Up to) 32 GB of LPDDR5-7467 (soldered, non-upgradable)</li> <li>Unknown, includes two M.2 NVME slots</li> <li>16.0&quot; 2560x1600 @ 240Hz OLED or IPS panel</li> <li>Wi-Fi 6E 2x2 and Bluetooth 5.3</li> <li>90 Wh battery with 240W barrel-jack power adapter</li> </ul> <p>Asus's refresh of their popular G16 is <a href="https://www.ultrabookreview.com/66885-asus-rog-zephyrus-g16-gu605/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">looking pretty good.</a> While it strangely lacks Wi-Fi 7, it's a minor oversight in an otherwise compelling device. I personally find the refreshed look to be quite aesthetically pleasing, especially in white. However, the OLED panel here is the real star of the show, and it's got good reviews so far. The big sticking point is the price. The device isn't actually out yet, so we have no idea how much it'll cost... and I wouldn't be surprised if it's out of budget, unfortunately.</p> <h3>Honorable mention: <a href="https://us.msi.com/Laptop/Stealth-16-AI-Studio-A1VX/shopnow" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI Stealth 16 AI Studio</a> - $2100</h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGDZb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGDZb.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Out of budget, but worth a mention.</p> <h3>Honorable mention: Lenovo Legion 7i Gen 9</h3> <p>There's <a href="https://youtu.be/MfhRUoF33aQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">very little info available on this laptop</a> (Lenovo doesn't even have a page up yet for it, only the Pro 7i Gen 9), but given the lack of an OLED screen, I struggle to see it being more compelling than the Zephyrus G16 unless you care deeply about Lenovo's keyboards or it's priced very competitively. In any case, it's not out yet.</p> <h1>Previous generation</h1> <h3>Honorable mention - Gigabyte Aero 16 OLED - <a href="https://www.currys.co.uk/products/gigabyte-aero-16-oled-bkf-16-gaming-laptop-intel-core-i9-rtx-4060-1-tb-ssd-10254590.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">£1800</a></h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLbM9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLbM9.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Still out of budget, but this deal from Curry's is pretty compelling. I do have a bit of a personal aversion to Gigabyte due to their... less than stellar... support staff if something goes wrong, but the hardware is reasonably solid.</p> <h3>Honorable mention - Asus Vivobook Pro 16X OLED (K6604) - £2200</h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6LvC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H6LvC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>It's a great laptop, but for whatever reason, it seems to be weirdly expensive in the UK; an identically spec'd version of this laptop was $2179 (about £1700) in the US <em>before</em> CES 2024, yet it's somehow more expensive now. Don't ask me how. If it happens to come up on a steep sale, I'd recommend it, but otherwise you'd probably be better off waiting on the new G16.</p>

18465

2024-01-28T00:40:56.010

|graphics-cards|processor|gaming|memory|

<p>I'm looking to upgrade to a slightly more powerful gaming laptop. I have the specs I want in mind but just want recommendations of brand and model that match, some pros and cons of each, and maybe a roughly expected price range for a device of these specs.</p> <p>I currently have a MSI cyborg 15. This has an Intel i5-12450H, RTX 3050 and 16GB DDR5 RAM. It's great for playing regular GTAV online but when playing on custom servers with heavy graphics, it can struggle now and then, especially if its set to 144hz instead of 60hz. For university, I also use it for compiling and rendering 3D games, hosting servers, and complex mathematical computations (e.g. calculating mersenne primes)</p> <p>Desired specs:</p> <ul> <li>Intel i7 13th gen</li> <li>RTX 3070/80 (depending on compatibility with my price range)</li> <li>32GB DDR5 RAM</li> </ul> <p>I've chosen these specs because they're better than what I currently own but I think still withing my price range. Specifically I stated the 3070 and not a 4000 series GPU because based on all my research the 3080 and even 3070 will still outperform a 4060.</p> <p>My price range is preferably £1200-£1400. I believe the 3070 will better fit that price range. I don't really know how to compare the 3000 series and 4000 series so if there are RTX 4000 series laptops that would have equivalent performance to one with the 3070 then I'm open to knew ideas.</p>

Laptop recommendations for these specs

<p>As mentioned on their <a href="https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-keyboards/g815-low-profile-rgb-mechanical-gaming-keyboard.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">site</a>, one is a passthrough port. So, you can plug something close by instead of at the PC. And it not true that mechanical keyboards have 2X USB ports.</p> <blockquote> <p><strong>COMPATIBILITY</strong></p> </blockquote> <ul> <li>Windows® 7 or later</li> <li>macOS 10.11 or later</li> <li>2x USB ports (1x keyboard, 1x USB passthrough port)</li> </ul>

18469

2024-01-28T07:02:03.373

|usb|keyboards|

<p>Why do mechanical keyboards have 2x USB plugs? Ordinary keyboards only have one.</p> <p>For example Logitech G G815 has 2x USB plugs, also the whole previous models. Why is that? I have tried it and it is enough to plug in one plug.</p>

Why do mechanical keyboards have 2x USB plugs? Ordinary keyboards only have one

<p>The <a href="https://meow-key.com/products/monsgeek-m5-diy-kit-100?sca_ref=4995306.YXx3PPSYB1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MONSGEEK M5</a> is also full sized and fully programmable using QMK/VIA.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4M441.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4M441.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Keychron also makes the V6, C2 Pro, K5 Pro, K10 Pro, and Q6/Q6 Pro/Q6 Max, all of which support QMK/VIA.</p>

18471

2024-01-28T15:17:12.363

|keyboards|

<p>I think I'm looking for a bit of a unicorn. I've done a lot of searching, and found plenty of programmable keyboards, plenty of full sized keyboards, but the only one I've found that is full sized, programmable, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_and_American_keyboards#Windows_keyboards" rel="nofollow noreferrer">US style</a> is the Keychron Q6.</p> <p>Are there any others? I'm not opposed to the Keychron; I would just like other options if they exist.</p>

Full sized (104-key US/ANSI) programmable keyboard (Via)

<p>It would help if you specified exactly what model of laptop that you have, but with what i'm assuming to be your model is a 2002 Dell Inspiron laptop 2600/2650 which in this case the max amount of memory it can handle is 512mb and if there is only one slot then 384mb will probably be the limit unless you can try and use a 512mb stick and see what happens but to be honest I don't see it being worth the headache. It's a 20 year old laptop you can only expect it to be anything but fast, you could use it as a retro gaming machine or even run MS-DOS and learn some legacy stuff if that interests you at all.</p> <p>TLDR: No you can't upgrade to 1gb of ram due to the limitations of the hardware.</p>

18474

2024-01-29T22:12:42.363

|laptop|processor|memory|

<p>I have an ancient laptop that officially maxes out at 384MiB; that's 128MiB soldered on the mobo, and a 256MiB SO-DIMM. I've swapped the CPU from a 1.5GHz Intel Celeron, with a 2.4GHz Pentium 4 (it boots!) and I <em>believe</em> that by replacing the CPU, the machine might allow more RAM, and I'm also hoping that it might allow for faster RAM?</p> <p>NOTE: The Pentium 4 did previously run at 2.4GHz (in an Intel desktop MOBO), and <code>lshw</code> shows it as <code>product: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.40GHz</code>, however it appears to be running at 1.8GHz... which is probably a good thing both in terms of power and thermals. It appears to be running fine (on mains power anyway) and is stable.</p> <p>Obviously, it's horrendously slow and the P4 probably won't help much. But if I could install 1GiB RAM, then it might be vaguely usable.</p> <p>Attached are photos of the original 1.5GHz Celeron, the replacement 2.4GHz Pentium 4 (I can't read the label but <code>lshw</code> says it's <code>version: 15.2.7</code>), and the existing 256MiB SO-DIMM. Yes, the P4 has a heat-spreader on it which makes fitting the heatsink + fan... somewhat challenging... but that's fine!</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTurP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTurP.jpg" alt="Intel Celeron" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMJIP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMJIP.jpg" alt="Intel Pentium 4" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGYSb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGYSb.jpg" alt="SO-DIMM" /></a></p> <p><strong>Update 2024-02-12:</strong> The 1GB RAM I ordered arrived today. I installed it and... the doesn't seem to work. Photo of the new ram anyway:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IzYSl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IzYSl.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

Can I use more + faster SODIMM with old laptop now I've switched from Celeron to Pentium 4?

<p>Mid 2012 or Retina? For the Mid, anything that fits - 2.5&quot; SATA [you can even get a caddy to put a 2nd in place of the DVD drive].</p> <p>The Retina is more complicated [&amp; not one I've ever had apart] See <a href="https://everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/macbook-pro-retina-display-faq/macbook-pro-retina-display-how-to-upgrade-ssd-storage.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/macbook-pro-retina-display-faq/macbook-pro-retina-display-how-to-upgrade-ssd-storage.html</a></p>

18482

2024-02-04T08:18:17.510

|ssd|hard-disk|macbook|

<p>I have an old MacBook Pro 2012 that I would quite like to resurrect, however it is INTENSELY SLOW, even after a reinstall of MacOS High Sierra. It has 16GB RAM and a Core i7, so I can't see those being a problem...<br> Does anyone have a good recommendation for an SSD drive to put in the MacBook? Preferably larger than the 240GB disk it came with.</p>

MacBook Pro 2012 Disk Upgrade

<h1>Buy a used Q570/Z590 board</h1> <p>Q470, Z490, W480, Q570, Z590, and W580 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1200" rel="nofollow noreferrer">all support a a 2x8 configuration for CPU PCI-e lanes.</a> However, I believe only Q570, Z590, and W580 are <em>guaranteed</em> to support a 2x8 CPU + 1x4 chipset configuration for PCI-e lanes, though some Z490 boards such as the Maximus XII Hero do support it. These boards should support your current hardware without the need for bifurcation.</p> <p>I believe any board on <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#xcx=0&amp;s=39&amp;h=2,8&amp;sort=price&amp;c=157,148&amp;E=1,7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this list</a> should work for you; currently, the cheapest board available new is the MSI MAG Z590 TORPEDO at $238.98. That's pretty pricy for an older board; given that this generation hasn't been current for a little while, I think you'll be better off with a used board.</p> <p>Aside: If you're having trouble finding a used board, I can help point you to some specific listings.</p>

18502

2024-02-09T11:05:46.657

|motherboard|pcie|

<p>current setup is:<br /> <strong>MB</strong>: MSI H510M-A PRO<br /> <strong>CPU</strong>: i5-11400<br /> <strong>GPU</strong>: Gigabyte intel arc A310 Windforce (x16 physical, x8 4.0 utilized)<br /> <strong>M.2</strong>: PCIe 3.0 x4</p> <p>The requirement is to add 10GB-sfp+ card (currently looking into Intel X520-DA1). As I understand current, current mobo doesn't support bifurcation (or at least no such option in current BIOS firmware and no info in manual), so using riser card isn't an option seems to me (or maybe is, would be nice if there's a solution). If not - looking for a mobo replacement for the same platform (i.e. LGA1200) but to support both GPU and new NIC. NIC isn't purchased yet, so any x4 10Gb SFP NIC is also acceptable.</p>

Looking for mobo to support pci-e x8 GPU and x8 nic

<p>This might be something that might work for you it's from Noctua, a little pricey but very low profile and efficient and should be more than enough for that cpu to keep it cool.</p> <p><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vbLwrH/noctua-nh-l9i-chromaxblack-3384-cfm-cpu-cooler-nh-l9i-chromaxblack" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Link</a></p>

18513

2024-02-11T16:57:18.580

|cooling|intel|heat-sink|

<p>I am upgrading an old Lenovo ThinkCentre I got cheap of eBay (a ThinkCentre M72e SFF - i3-2120, 4GB, 240GB) and I desperately need to speed it up - a new CPU should do it. I have an old i7-2600 lying around, but with no cooler. What cooler can I get for this CPU that will fit in my case? It must be powerful, because I frequently put this machine under load. <br> - Must be air-cooled <br> - Must fit in my SFF case an on my motherboard <br> - It's cramped inside, and my GTX 1650 LP takes a bit of space, so it can't be intrusive around the CPU <br> - For anyone who doesn't know, it has a socket LGA1155</p>

Core i7-2600 CPU Cooler

<h2>You'll need to use a barrel charger or allow the battery to drain down</h2> <p>The Lenovo P16 Gen 2 with the RTX 4000 <a href="https://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_P16_Gen_2/ThinkPad_P16_Gen_2_Spec.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">supports USB PD 3.0</a>, which maxes out at <a href="https://manhattanproducts.eu/pages/usb-c-pd-charging-everything-you-need-to-know" rel="nofollow noreferrer">100W (20V/5.0A)</a>. While there are USB-C chargers that can supply up to 240W (48V/5.0A), these chargers are using the newer USB PD 3.1 spec, and the Lenovo P16 Gen 2 won't be able to draw the full 240W even if you get one of these chargers.</p> <p>As such, you'll need to either use the slim-tip charger, or to rely on the battery when at peak load. For day-to-day use, you probably won't be drawing 230W continuously, so the latter is probably fine; however, you'll definitely want to make sure you have the slim-tip charger on-hand for when you need it.</p> <p>Aside: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09D9RW5WG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">there are adapters</a> that will let you use a USB-C charger with a slim-tip computer; however, they appear to max out at 100W currently. While higher-wattage versions may come later on, I wouldn't necessarily count on it.</p>

18574

2024-03-27T18:25:08.420

|graphics-cards|power-supply|usb-c|power|docking-stations|

<p>A Lenovo P16 laptop with a NVIDIA RTX 4000 can use up to 230 W power. The proprietary barrel power supply can provide it, but a standard USB-C docking station only provides about half of that.</p> <p>If I intend to use the GPU at full power, do I need to buy a docking station that provides 230W+ USB-C? Does such a thing exist? Or do I need to keep the barrel charger in also?</p> <p>Is it possible to not use the barrel charger, and for the laptop to draw the extra power from the battery, which will charge slowly from the docking station (of course, this will only work if I use the GPU for only short periods of time).</p>

How to run a 230W laptop + GPU from a USB-C docking station?