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<p>You want a "Sound Mixer". If you are working with analog audio signals, there are several options: Here is a <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/Portable-Channel-Audio-Passive-Recording/dp/B07Y2RYHFF" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cheap one that has 4 inputs</a> and here is a <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/JUST-MIXER-Audio-Mixer-Portable/dp/B01LPT8JY8/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">battery powered option with better quality that has 2 inputs</a>.</p>
<p>Unfortunately there are not any devices that share a USB connection between multiple hosts. That is just a limitation of USB. USB was designed as a master-slave system for peripherals, as such, it has a strict "Tree Network" topology. This means, no matter how you slice it, multiple hosts (computers) can't share a USB device. Similar issue on <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/13714/share-a-many-channel-usb-sound-card-between-several-stereo-computers">this recent question</a>.</p>
<hr />
<p>Because it is common to want this functionality, there exits several software solutions. I know this is outside the context of both this site and what you want, but its really the only option. This is where the Raspberry Pi you mentioned may come in.</p>
<p>You can find many options by searching for a way of sharing either the USB device, or the sound source over a network. A good example of this is the program <a href="https://symless.com/synergy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Synergy</a>. The original version of the program (there is a second more complicated version now) shares your mouse and keyboard between multiple computers by connecting your peripherals to one computer that acts as a server and sends its kb/m inputs over to another computer through a network. The program running on the second computer decodes this information and presents it to the operating system as a kb/m. The second computer can't access the keyboard or mouse directly, it only gets the keystrokes that are sent to it.</p>
<p>To do this with Audio there are programs like <a href="https://www.freedesktop.org/wiki/Software/PulseAudio/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PulseAudio</a> and <a href="https://vac.muzychenko.net/en/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Virtual Audio Cable</a>. I can't say I have experience with either program so you may want to do your own research on them. You could use a Raspberry Pi to act as the host that you plug your headphones into, but you will probably not see any benefit over letting one of your computers be the host unless neither of those computers will always be available.</p>
| 13704 | 2020-06-27T22:41:11.857 | |usb|audio|sound-system| | <p>I would like to connect one USB Headset to two separate computers, hearing the audio of both at the same time. USB Switches exist, however they only allow one computer to control the headset at a time. It most certainly needs to be a special device that knows how to handle sound data and mixes it from two different sources. Does something like this already exist? If possible, buying one is the preferred option however I may also invest some time and tinker it with a raspberry pi if some tutorial for this exists.</p>
| Connect one USB headset to two devices, playing both sounds simultaneously |
<p>I'd also suggest a used Thinkpad. Specifically the X series of Thinkpads if you want a laptop on the smaller EEE PC end of the spectrum.</p>
<p>I'd recommend looking at models from the X220 onward. The X220 though, is a firm favourite in the community for a number of reasons. It was the last X series Thinkpad to come with the old style (and almost universally said to be) superior keyboard. It was the first generation to have Sandy Bridge processors, which saw a sizeable jump in performance. And as it's one of the most popular models amongst enthusiasts, resources for modding, upgrading, fixing, and repairing them, be it in hardware or software, are plentiful.</p>
<p>Just bare in min that if you were to get an X220, you'd need the i7 CPU version in order to get USB 3.0.</p>
<p>The X220 is a favourite of Thinkpad fans but my recommendation would still hold true for later models such as the X230, X240 etc... There is one more thing to keep in mind though. Thinkpads are/were business laptops. They were sold by the thousands to big business. They were known for being durable and perhaps as a result of that reputation, a lot of them saw a tough life. So it's all too common to finnd ones for sale that are in poor condition. When buying a Thinkpad, pay close attention to the screen's hinges, the bezel around the screen, and the corners of the main body. If you wanted, you can always ask for further advice on the condition or price of a Thinkpad that's for sale, one one of the Thinkpad community's forums.</p>
<p>[NOTE] There was a EEE PC style series of Thinkpads but they were rubbish, not worthy of the Thinkpad name.</p>
| 13711 | 2020-06-28T18:51:59.057 | |laptop|linux| | <p>Until about 10 years ago, Asus used to build a series of cheap, lightweight laptop called EEE PC, which later got discontinued. I am looking for something similar in terms of price, but with more power.</p>
<p>Is there any cheap (< $150), ultraportable laptop which completely support GNU/Linux operating systems (no wifi/graphics driver issues), has at least 4 gb ram, and 10-12 inch display?</p>
<p>I primarily intend to use it for software development, web browsing, and reading PDF documents.</p>
<p>So far, I have found GPD Pocket, but it's screen is really small (7 inch) for reading/multitasking, and it costs about $600. I was looking for something cheaper. I feel that something may already be available, because there are lots of mobile devices with about 4 gb ram available under $150, and the technology is not too different (I am okay with an ARM laptop).</p>
| Alternative for Asus EEE PC that supports GNU/Linux out of the box? |
<p>Baseus GaN 120W PD charger would be the one to consider.</p>
<p><a href="https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPxnjT" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPxnjT</a></p>
<p>It doesn't exactly has 4 ports, but it has 3 ports that all support QC and some support PD. I have a cheaper 65W model, which can support 2 ports working in PD or QC mode simultaneously, but doesn't support QC on all ports at the same time, but I think this one is much more powerful, and so should be able to support all three ports working in QC mode, especially since it says the three ports can deliver "60w+30w+30w".</p>
| 13713 | 2020-06-29T16:32:08.460 | |usb|power-supply| | <p>I'm looking for a US wall-plug charger which supports Qualcomm Quick Charging 3.0 (QC 3.0) or later The trouble is that while there a re many chargers with one QC 3.0 port, and other 5V 2.1A ports, I need multiple QC 3.0 ports.</p>
<p>Here are the requirements:
<em>The charger must...</em></p>
<ul>
<li>be compatible with US plugs</li>
<li>have at least 2 QC 3.0 ports</li>
<li>be able to put out power equal to the number of QC3.0 ports * 24 watts</li>
<li>have the option to be shipped to at least the lower 48 US states.</li>
</ul>
<p><em>It would be nice if the charger could...</em></p>
<ul>
<li>Have 4 QC3.0 ports</li>
<li>be under 75$ US</li>
</ul>
<p>There is no preference to whether the charger uses USB C or USB A, nor is there a preference to whether the charger is corded or direct plug.</p>
<p>The closest thing I found is the following, but I would highly prefer a 4-port charger:
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07TV3ST69" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">dual port QC 3.0 charger</a></p>
| What multi-port wall USB-chargers exist which support QC 3.0? |
<p>The <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N2080GAMING-8GC#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Support page</a> shows that it supports SLI, but you need to pair your card with an identical one. If you have the original 2080, not the Ti or Super variants, then you need to find an original card. This can be hard to do as they have mostly phased the original out in favor of the Super, but that doesn't make it impossible.</p>
| 13725 | 2020-07-02T16:07:21.830 | |graphics-cards| | <p>I have a 34x14 monitor so I want to SLI for games. I have an i7 8700 3.7 on a good motherboard.</p>
<p>I've been told my card won't work with new cards. It's a</p>
<p>Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Gaming OC 8G</p>
<p>This only matches used cards? What's the issue?</p>
<p>I should just get two new 2080s?</p>
| SLI with Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Gaming OC 8G |
<p>For HP I would recommend:</p>
<ul>
<li>The best fit at $1850: <a href="https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-spectre-x360-laptop-15-eb0065nr" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Spectre x360 15 EB0065NR</a></li>
<li>Same idea, at $1450: <a href="https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-spectre-x360-15-df1040nr" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Spectre x360 15 DF1040NR</a></li>
</ul>
<p>If you can afford it, I would definitely go for the first one since it has everything you're looking for. The second one has a graphics card not as powerful as the first one, and "only" 512GB of SSD (note that you could add a very good external hard disk drive and stay below $1700 total).</p>
| 13753 | 2020-07-08T16:51:47.430 | |development|windows|music|video-editing| | <p>This is my first question on this StackExchange site, so please let me know how I can improve it.</p>
<p>I am interested in a Windows laptop (I need to program with it - including <a href="https://developer.android.com/studio" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Android Studio</a>), but besides this I want to use it also to make music (ReasonStudios, here the <a href="https://help.reasonstudios.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002215674-What-are-the-minimum-system-requirements-for-Reason-11-" rel="nofollow noreferrer">requirements</a>, and being able to use with a synth keyboard), and performant enough for making timelapse video (including GoPro, not necessarily 4K).</p>
<p>So the requirements are:</p>
<p>-8 GB RAM</p>
<p>-at least 1TB storage</p>
<p>-Windows 10</p>
<p>-Intel Core i7</p>
<p>-Monitor with at least 1280 x 768 resolution</p>
<p>-I am Not a big expert about the graphic board, so I cannot really say whatare the best requirements for video editing</p>
<p>For the needed characteristics I saw a gaming laptop (OMEN by <a href="https://support.hp.com/it-it/document/c06468461" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP 15-DH0039NL</a>).</p>
<p>Is it a good one? Would you suggest some other laptop?
My budget is <1700€$ (but of course depends on the value)</p>
<p>Thanks a lot!</p>
| Windows laptop for programming, make music and editing videos |
<p>I'll second the recommendation for the Thinkpads—you might even be able to grab a T or X series within your budget depending on launch offers—but since you mentioned Linux, I thought it would be remiss not to mention there are a couple of 4800H laptops with options for Linux preinstalled, no OS or even no storage, including the <a href="https://bestware.com/de/schenker-via-15-pro.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Schenker VIA Pro</a>, the <a href="https://www.tuxedocomputers.com/en/Linux-Hardware/Linux-Notebooks/15-16-inch/TUXEDO-Book-Pulse-15-Gen1.tuxedo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tuxedo Pulse 15</a> and the new Slimbook, <a href="https://kde.slimbook.es/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">KDE</a> or <a href="https://slimbook.es/en/store/slimbook-pro-x-15/pro-x-15-amd-comprar" rel="nofollow noreferrer">otherwise</a>, all roughly at that £/$/€1000 price point. Some of them plan to offer 4K OLED displays as upgrades, but that would probably take things outside your price range. They're also a good deal cheaper if you can import from a Chinese reseller, say through a friend travelling through or living there.</p>
<p>As I understand it from a couple of reddit threads <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/AMDLaptops/comments/hunyv6/my_mechrevo_code01_tongfang_pf5nu1g_review/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">(1)</a> <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/AMDLaptops/comments/hwiigs/tuxedo_pulse_15_and_kde_slimbook/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">(2)</a>, the chassis is from the same ODM, TongFeng. Some benchmarks are available <a href="https://www.notion.so/Mechrevo-Code-01-TongFang-PF5NU1G-Information-8009025fdefc40118ab0ea973e7e0988" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> and a comprehensive english review on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obIAXDZkKbs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">youtube</a>. The battery life seems to be quite good thanks to the large 91 Wh battery, and you should see well over 5 hours of battery life, closer to 8 to 12 hours. Gaming laptops with the new Ryzen and a larger ~90 Wh battery option should honestly achieve similar run times under light to idle loads, and even a smaller batter should meet your 5-hour target, though obviously if you wanted to use the GPU heavily for video editing or something that would take a toll.</p>
<p>The performance may different significantly due to cooling, so looking at the specific models you plan on buying would be better, but there are quite a few comparison benchmarks of the Ryzen APUs from, e.g. <a href="https://www.notebookcheck.net/R7-4700U-vs-R7-4800U-vs-R7-4800H_11683_11681_11677.247596.0.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Notebookcheck</a>. Notably, the 4800U seems to trade blows in single core performance especially, though the increased power limits shows in multi-core workloads. They are likely essentially the same chip with different binning and enabled cores. The Vega 7 iGP is honestly <a href="https://www.notebookcheck.net/GeForce-GTX-1050-Mobile-vs-GeForce-MX250-vs-Vega-7_7503_9561_10098.247598.0.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">comparable</a> with the MX250 performance-wise, and I doubt you will have any problems with lighter games like Minecraft. Heavier games may require lowered settings, resolution or both to run at 60 FPS.</p>
<p>The display covers 100% sRGB, which is not bad, though at the price range of a euro reseller you can probably get the better panels on, e.g. the TUF A15 which would have similar gamuts and a high refresh rate. Unfortunately, it does not have a second M.2 slot or a 2.5" drive bay, which limits expandability, and the keyboard backlight is poor. Overall, I would recommend it over laptops from larger OEMs if the combination of the H-series CPU and 1.5 kg weight interests you, if you want the convenience of the SSD-less configuration option or preinstalled Linux, or if you can get it from China yourself for a lower price. Otherwise, the Thinkpad will likely a good deal cheaper, and at your full budget you might be looking at laptops with the RTX 2060 instead. If you do end up going with a laptop from a more well known company, consider mentioning it to their sales that you don't need a Windows or a drive included. It's possible that they'll be willing to bump up some other hardware, include free accessories or even give you a discount, and the worst that could happen is they'll say no.</p>
| 13832 | 2020-07-26T13:34:49.693 | |laptop|linux| | <p>First off: yes there are many questions similar to this, but most of them are <em>very outdated</em> (Most recent I've seen is 2016).</p>
<p>I am looking for a laptop for general use, which for me is programming and light gaming (minecraft and similar). The features I'd like are listed here in order of importance (top = highest importance):</p>
<ul>
<li>Must have decent amount of processing power, over graphics power.</li>
<li>Must have 8GB of RAM or more</li>
<li>Decent ish keyboard would be nice, as long as it's not actually bad then it's fine probably.</li>
<li>Must have decent screen, preferably 1080p, high refresh rate not required.</li>
<li>A dedicated GPU would be nice but I don't want something that will cause the battery life to be very little, GTX 1050 or equivalent would be more than enough. AMD integrated graphics is pretty good nowadays so a recent AMD APU would also probably be fine.</li>
<li>A battery life of 5+ hours would be nice but I can live with 2 hours minimum.</li>
<li>The thinner and lighter the better but it's not the most important feature.</li>
<li>I intend to replace the HDD/SSD with one I already have so I don't need any fancy storage.</li>
</ul>
<p>I intend to run linux on the laptop but it's probably fine on most laptops, if there's an option with no operating system then that would be a bonus but it's not exactly common.</p>
<p>My budget is £1000/$1000 but I can go maybe £1-200 over if absolutely necessary.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance!</p>
| Looking for a laptop capable of light gaming and programming for under £1000/$1000 |
<blockquote>
<p>I want lots of cores (≥12) and lots of RAM (≥24 GB), but I don't need much disk space</p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
<p>I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750</p>
</blockquote>
<p>your < $750 and lots of cores is contradictory, but...</p>
<p>The basic desktop/workstation (traditionally with a monitor) are no more than dual socket- meaning only 2 cpu's. They don't offer that much real estate, not like a rack server and you won't have many DIMM slots but they typically do 128GB of RAM no problem.</p>
<p>Not <em>blade server</em> but <strong>rack server</strong> is what generally offers the most real estate and would allow for up to 4 cpu sockets. And would have the most DIMM slots available providing for 768GB to 1.5TB of RAM. <em>$750 would only buy you a few DIMMS here</em>. But a rack server is not required to be put in a rack, you can lay them on a desk, they will take up some space obviously, or you can lay them on their side on the floor against the desk. Expect to pay over $10,000 for a 4 socket rack server having whatever N-core cpu's and however much RAM. Try Dell's online build your own for something like 4-socket PowerEdge R840 to get an idea.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/cty/pdp/spd/poweredge-r840/pe_r840_12850_vi_vp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/cty/pdp/spd/poweredge-r840/pe_r840_12850_vi_vp</a></p>
<p>Also check out supermicro. For what it sounds like you are wanting, look for a used/refurb rack server.</p>
<p>You can sometimes buy all rack server components and build your own, but expect to pay over $750 just for the main board that is rack server style. Then add in power supply, cpu, ram, fans, and so on.</p>
<p>a <em>blade</em> from a <em>blade server</em> can be tricky depending on what it's from, it implies its a blade of a larger system so don't assume a blade removed from that kind of system can operate on it's own like a standalone computer. So in this context no don't expect to use a blade without the rest of the blade server. If you have the entire blade server, then that implies you then have multiple blades... installed into some chassis. This chassis whether that's installed in a rack isn't a requirement.</p>
| 13847 | 2020-07-30T10:36:15.820 | |rack| | <p>I'm looking to get a server that I can run Ubuntu on, with the primary purpose of running the SPARK Pro toolset. <em><strong>I want lots of cores (≥12) and lots of RAM (≥24 GB), but I don't need much disk space</strong></em>, basically just whatever's required to install bare Ubuntu, the SPARK Pro toolchain, and the source code I want to do my proof/implementation work on. <em><strong>I definitely don't need a monitor</strong></em>, as I'm planning on SSH'ing into the server using VS Code. When I put in my <a href="https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?LeftPriceRange=100+750&N=100283198%20600031825%20600061210%20601309114%20601311312%20601311297%20601191809%20601191787%20601191785%20600510505%20600510331%20600510006%20601192027%20601323905%20601323907%20601346202" rel="nofollow noreferrer">requirements for NewEgg</a> (<em><strong>I also want it to be relatively inexpensive: I limited it to $750</strong></em>), I got nothing but blade servers.</p>
<p>Focusing primarily on this <a href="https://www.newegg.com/hp-proliant-dl360p-g8-rack/p/2NS-0006-35GX6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Proliant DL360P</a> (though I'm not committed to that particular option), I was wondering <em><strong>if it'd be possible to put this into some other form factor other than a rack</strong></em>. E.g., for not too much more money to get a box I could house it in.</p>
<p>Note (in response to <a href="https://engineering.stackexchange.com/users/1832/wasabi">@Wasabi</a> in a now deleted post at the Engineering Stack Exchange): I don't <em>know</em> if I need a case, but I'm assuming I'd want something to reduce dust getting into places it shouldn't. I could be wrong. If someone knowledgable tells me I don't, using the "bare metal casing" counts as "some other form factor" for the purposes of my question. "Have you considered this really small, cheap rack?" also counts. <em><strong>I'm just looking for a reasonable solution to having a machine that suits my needs located in my home office, so frame challenges are welcome.</strong></em></p>
<p>Edit to add: I'm also willing to do <em>some</em> custom modifications to hardware (e.g., add RAM) after the fact.</p>
| Is it feasible to use a blade server (e.g., HP ProLiant) without a rack? |
<p>Asking this question led to using the search terms of "<em><strong>offline hdmi capture</strong></em>", where a device from <a href="https://shop.category5.tv/?product=1080p-30-fps-hdmi-component-video-capture-to-usb-without-computer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">agptek</a> was found (video: 2017, LinuxTechShow, "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsPGwrtpYT8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Record Your Gameplay Without A Computer</a>") and is as shown below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEvRh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEvRh.png" alt="Picture of offline USB HDMI/composite capture device" /></a></p>
| 13850 | 2020-07-30T23:10:30.680 | |hdmi|video-capture| | <p>I'd like to record both HDMI and composite signals, in that it records the audio and video to a device for retrieval later without any computer connection required.</p>
<p>Is there any available hardware that can record and capture 1080p HDMI and composite signals?</p>
| Way to record / capture HDMI and composite signals? |
<p>You probably just need a better microphone with an on/off or mute/unmute button. I'd focus your searches around "vlog microphone" or "android mic mute button". Vloggers will use external mics for better sound, although very few that I've found have built-in mute buttons.</p>
<p>Here's I think half of what you might be looking for:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOFqb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOFqb.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07N2WRHMY" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Condenser-Indicator-Gooseneck-Recording/dp/B07N2WRHMY/ref=psdc_3015406011_t3_B07WLWN2ZT</a></p>
<p>Big beautiful mute button right on the base, but its input is USB, so maybe a USB to Headset adapter along with it: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/usb-headset-adapter/s?k=usb+headset+adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/usb-headset-adapter/s?k=usb+headset+adapter</a></p>
<p>This bluetooth headset has a mute button "on the headset arm": <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07L13Y3K2" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/YAMAY-Bluetooth-Cancelling-Headphones-Microphone/dp/B07L13Y3K2/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=android+mic+mute+button&qid=1596779860&sr=8-4</a></p>
<p>Or you could go with a smaller earpiece perhaps: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0882WC8FX" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/TOKSEL-Bluetooth-Cancelling-Hands-Free-Compatible/dp/B0882WC8FX/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=android+mic+mute+button&qid=1596779860&sr=8-8</a></p>
<p>Or maybe this desk microphone with volume/mute controls: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07SGB9329" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-MAONO-Condenser-Headphone-Livestream/dp/B07SGB9329/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=android+mic+mute+button&qid=1596779860&sr=8-14</a></p>
<p>Hope this helps.</p>
| 13879 | 2020-08-07T03:35:16.040 | |video-camera| | <p>I'm using my smartphone (Samsung Note 10+) for online classes. I use Zoom for video-conference.
I mount the phone on a tripod and position it so that my writing desk is visible.
I then use SmartView (i.e. Miracast) to mirror my phone screen to a TV using Amazon Fire-stick. Speaker and Mic are from the smartphone only.</p>
<p>This setup works quite well except for the following problem -</p>
<p><em>I frequently need to mute/unmute. The only way to do this is to reach out to the smartphone screen which is very inconvenient (it is mounted on a tripod facing down on my writing desk)</em></p>
<p>How can I solve this? Can I buy some external mic mute/un-mute switch? Or some other hardware? Any other tips?</p>
<p>(I searched online for some products could not find many options. Bluetooth speakerphones from Jabra etc get very expensive for me)</p>
| Video-Conferencing: External mute / un-mute switch for smartphone (Samsung Note 10+) |
<p>You cannot measure the phones power consumption this way. The USB dongle will only see the current being used to charge the battery of the phone not the power the phone is drawing from the battery.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>You could use an application on the phone that monitors the phone battery and logs its usage. No external device can monitor the power the phone is using. This will be a fairly inaccurate measurement just because phones can generally only reference the battery voltage to determine its charge status.</p>
</li>
<li><p>If you are willing to risk a phone the way to do this would be to open the back of the case, get to the battery connector, de-solder the phone's positive terminal and connect a current meter in line of this rail like shown below,</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fO6JZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fO6JZ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The multimeter would then be able to measure the actual amount of current being drawn from the battery by the phone. This would give you the most accurate results, but does risk damaging the phone.</p>
| 13903 | 2020-08-13T13:57:53.093 | |smartphones|measurement-devices| | <p>Is it possible to use an USB power meter like the UM24C (<a href="https://liutyi.info/um24c/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://liutyi.info/um24c/</a>) to measure the energy consumption of a smartphone (in detail, I would to measure the current drain)?</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9HJO.png" alt="enter image description here" /></p>
<p>For example, I'm executing an app and I would to measure the energy consumption of the smartphone when the app is in execution (of course I will not have the maximum of the accuracy, but just an estimation; better than nothing).</p>
<p>It seems that it is possible (i.e. connect the USB meter to a energy source, and after connect the smartphone to the power meter), but I would like to have a confirmation about it. By the way, (i) I have a good USB cable with a low resistance, (ii) I cannot remove the battery of my smartphone, (iii) I connected the INPUT of the power meter to a power bank or a computer. It make sense?</p>
| USB Power Meter to measure Smartphone Energy Consumption |
<p>No. Android Things only had the base kit. You'll have to buy and integrate any additional hardware components yourself.</p>
<p>For a gyroscope in an IoT project use something MPU6050 based:</p>
<p>like: <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3886?gclid=CjwKCAjwm_P5BRAhEiwAwRzSO5dOI-q3QZscRaq2FAWKfBTd5pfXv6Q6s5qEx50BrR6x4PsJZYkTmBoCiacQAvD_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Adafruit MPU-6050 6-DoF Accel and Gyro Sensor - STEMMA QT Qwiic</a></p>
| 13929 | 2020-08-19T15:38:57.423 | |android| | <p>I am looking to make an app that detects door movement (not with motion sensors, but with a gyroscope), but I want to use Android Things for this project. I've been looking around, but so far, I haven't found anything yet.</p>
| Is there an Android Things kit that includes a gyroscope sensor? |
<p>There are many drones on the market. What are you looking for? Do you want the drone to have a good battery or maybe durability?</p>
<p>I can recommend <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07YF45T28" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EMAX Hawk Sport 5.</a> It comes with a great design and overall quality. It's under $200 too.</p>
<p>Don't forget to check these sites. Maybe you'll find something useful.</p>
<p><a href="https://mydroneauthority.com/reviews/best-racing-drones-for-sale/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://mydroneauthority.com/reviews/best-racing-drones-for-sale/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://uavcoach.com/fpv-quadcopter-drone-systems/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://uavcoach.com/fpv-quadcopter-drone-systems/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.aniwaa.com/buyers-guide/drones/best-fpv-racing-drones/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.aniwaa.com/buyers-guide/drones/best-fpv-racing-drones/</a> (2019 list)</p>
| 13970 | 2020-09-01T19:35:04.943 | |drone|vr-headset| | <p>I'm looking for an FPV racing drone that has a sturdy frame and comes with everything I need (except VR goggles if it links with your phone).
I also don't have a soldering iron so I won't be able to solder. I usually buy off of amazon, and if it's sold on there, that'd be great. I want it to have blade guards as well that make it able to fly indoors. I'm an experienced pilot, so it doesn't have to be beginner friendly. I don't want to have to spend over $200 on this, too. Thanks in advance!</p>
| FPV Racing Drone Reccomendation |
<p>Everything you mentioned feels like Xiamomi phones should do the work. You can get Mi 8 lite for ~£200</p>
<p>size: 156.40 x 75.80 x 7.50 mm</p>
<p>screen: 1080 x 2280 px (6.26") 403 ppi</p>
<p>battery: Li-Ion 3350 mAh (yes, it's lower than you wanted but it's hard to squish power and a good battery to make it under 200 GBP)</p>
<p>CPU: Qualcomm Snapdragon 660</p>
<p>Including Android 10 and USB-C cable</p>
<p>Or Moto G9 / Moto G8. They are similliar to that one you had before.</p>
| 13971 | 2020-09-01T21:57:37.900 | |android|mobile-phone|battery-life|battery| | <p>I need a new phone to replace a Moto G7 Power that I dropped in a lake. I would buy it again but I can't find it anywhere for near its original price (I saw one on eBay for £250, double its original price). I'd like to find a similar phone for a similar price of £100-£200. Requirements in order of how important they are to me:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Good battery life. Moti G7 Power had 5000mAh which admittedly is overkill, but the more the better (>=4000mAh would be nice)</p>
</li>
<li><p>decent screen: Moto G7 Power had a 720p 19:9 display which was probably it's weakest point, a 1080p screen would be nice but I'll compromise on the screen if necessary.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Relatively stock android: so not Samsung, I want a pretty standard version like that of Motorola phones. Android 9 is my OS of choice because it's relatively recent but also still has the old-school navigation buttons that i can't live without.</p>
</li>
<li><p>USB-C: is very cool</p>
</li>
<li><p>Decently fast processor, basically anything will do to be honest, and enough graphics power to play 1080p60 YouTube smoothly (probably not even necessary to specify)</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Thanks for any and all suggestions in advance!</p>
| Looking for low-mid phone with good battery & screen |
<p>The A2DP <em>or</em> HSP choice is afaik a limitation of the bluetooth standard itself. You'll need to wait for an update of the standard for that to be fixed, but I'm not aware of such an update being in the works. Perhaps some company will come with a proprietary mode that improves this. The Plantronics/Poly headsets with the BT600 dongle do that to an extent, with that dongle they can run in HSP mode with stereo sound, but the sound is still limited to a 16 KHz sampling rate instead of the 44.1 for hifi sound, so that is clearly audible. If that is good enough, there is the Poly Voyager 6200 UC if you can live with a neckband.</p>
<p>As you figured out, you will want to look for a wireless gaming headset. The connection is often described as 2.4GHz, lag free, or uncompressed. It appears that wireless gaming earbuds (truly wireless or with ears connected) with such a connection do not exist. Keep watch of <a href="https://www.soundguys.com/best-wireless-gaming-headset-28701/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this SoundGuys page</a>, especially the Notable Mentions section, if you want to find out if the situation changes. They update their "best of" pages when new headsets come out. Currently it says the Epos GTW 270 Hybrid is the only pair of true wireless gaming earbuds on the market today, and importantly its microphone doesn't function when connected to the 2.4GHz dongle.</p>
<p><em>edit</em>
I realized there is a bluetooth technology that supports this. It's called the <em>faststream</em> codec, though it is not really a new codec, just a different configuration of the standard SBC codec. Unfortunately it is very hard to find faststream supporting headsets. Google found the Creative Outlier Sports, though it is not true wireless. You'll also need a bluetooth audio dongle that supports faststream, because current desktops and phones don't.</p>
| 14017 | 2020-09-13T03:13:15.900 | |wireless|bluetooth|headphones|microphones|audio-quality| | <p>I'm finally catching up w/ the 21st century and bought my first pair of truly wireless earbuds: the Sony WF-1000XM3.</p>
<p>My issue is that audio quality degrades significantly when I connect them to my computer and enable the microphone. To do this, I have to switch from High Fidelity Playback (A2DP Sink) to Headset Unit (HSP/HFP), which forces the output to go from Stereo to Mono.</p>
<p>For ~$200+, I was hoping to have better audio quality than my cheap wired earbuds+mic. I already bought 2 other earbuds at different price points and noticed similar or worse issues. Tried with Airpods Pro as well, but since I'm not on a Mac, I could never get the mic working.</p>
<p>In short, I'm wondering if things change significantly with something like the Sennheiser Momentum 2 (or higher price point), or if I should consider non-truly wireless earphones, if I want quality audio and mic?</p>
| Are there any truly wireless earbuds that support A2DP while using the microphone? |
<p>Given that you're already familiar with the TI-83, I suggest considering the <strong>TI-89 Titanium</strong>. In language and UI design it's a descendant, but it is “modernized” in a lot of ways and has many additional features.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Easy way to convert between hex, dec and bin bases, with a few button presses rather by than executing a custom program.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You can enter numbers like <code>0hAA</code> and <code>0b1011</code>, and print them with the <code>▸Hex</code>, <code>▸Bin</code>, and <code>▸Dec</code> operators, or set the default output format to any of the three bases.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Support for integers with different word sizes: byte, word, double word etc (8, 16, 32 bit).</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Only 32-bit is available; you'd have to do bit masking yourself to simulate smaller sizes.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Support for bit shift, OR, AND, NOT and similar binary arithmetic.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><code>shift(value, count)</code> provides a 32-bit sign-extending shift. <code>or</code>, <code>and</code>, and <code>not</code> act bitwise on integers.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The ability to type out the whole calculation/equation on the display as done on Texas calculators. Not "one operand at a time" as in more classic/simplistic calculators.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yep, it's a TI! Also, if I remember correctly, the TI-83 text entry defaults to overwrite mode — the TI-89 defaults to insert mode like modern text editors.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Trigonometry supported and easily accessible (like on the Texas ones). Radians + degrees.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yes. Trig functions are on the main keyboard, radians and degrees are available as a mode setting, and you can also enter and read vectors in polar or rectangular form.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Must support engineering notation.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yes. The TI-89 has a dedicated key for entering the exponent "E" (which is a distinct character from text/variable-name "E". There is also an "engineering" output option to always use exponents that are multiples of 3.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Some manner of graphic display (LCD, TFT etc). Resolution doesn't matter.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>160 × 100 LCD, no backlight. You can plot functions and also draw arbitrary graphics from programs. The normal input/output view fits 5½ lines of text (at minimum height; divisions and matrices and such are taller), and you can scroll up easily to review and recall previous results.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Actual buttons. (If I liked typing on touch screens, I'd use the app on my phone instead.)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Check!</p>
<hr />
<p>Features/differences you didn't ask for but are noteworthy compared to the TI-83:</p>
<ul>
<li>You can have arbitrary, multi-character variable names.</li>
<li>You can perform symbolic operations, including solving, factoring, expansion, differentiation, and integration.</li>
<li>Instead of built-in function names being special symbols, you can just type their name on the keyboard. (There's still a list you can review and pick from, and a help function showing the expected parameter list.)</li>
</ul>
<p>Tip: First thing to do is to go into the settings and turn off "Apps Desktop", so you always start at the "Home" regular calculator input mode.</p>
<hr />
<p>The TI-89 Titanium is still in current production and can also be found cheaply on the used market (presumably from ex-students).</p>
<p>I hear that the TI-92 / Voyage 200 has the same operating system but adds a QWERTY keyboard, which may be of interest for quickly typing operator names. However, there is no model of this line in current production, and I am not familiar with the functionality of the newer TI-Nspire line.</p>
| 14111 | 2020-10-07T11:12:19.407 | |calculators| | <p>My old Texas TI-83 is dying on me after some 20 years of extensive use. It served me well, but it's quite crude when it comes to programming-related arithmetic. Specifically binary/dec/hex conversions, as well as bit-wise arithmetic. For such, I've relied on custom programs made by myself, that tend to get cumbersome interfaces to the point where I don't use them, but fire up calc.exe on the computer instead.</p>
<p>So I'm looking for a similar graphing calculator similar to the Texas TI-xx product family, but one more suitable for programmers, if such a beast exists. That is, easily accessible ways to use the various features of the old calc.exe in Windows, when set to "programmer mode".</p>
<p>Requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Easy way to convert between hex, dec and bin bases, with a few button presses rather by than executing a custom program.</li>
<li>Support for integers with different word sizes: byte, word, double word etc (8, 16, 32 bit).</li>
<li>Support for bit shift, OR, AND, NOT and similar binary arithmetic.</li>
<li>The ability to type out the whole calculation/equation on the display as done on Texas calculators. Not "one operand at a time" as in more classic/simplistic calculators.</li>
<li>Trigonometry supported and easily accessible (like on the Texas ones). Radians + degrees.</li>
<li>Must support engineering notation.</li>
<li>Some manner of graphic display (LCD, TFT etc). Resolution doesn't matter.</li>
<li>Actual buttons. (If I liked typing on touch screens, I'd use the app on my phone instead.)</li>
</ul>
| Graphing calculator suitable for programmers? |
<p>The keyboard request you've put in sounds like you would like a <em>mechanical tenkeyless keyboard</em>. It sounds like you would dislike chiclet or membrane keyboards which are usually more low profile. Mechanical keyboards prevent ghosting keys, are usually a lot more sturdy, and have a much farther key travel distance than scissor switch membrane keyboards. Your request for looks cool to a 7-year old suggest you would like backlighting, and it is actually hard not to get keyboards lit up like a Christmas tree for mechanical keyboards at the price range.</p>
<h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZV6FHWF" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB 3.0 Extension Cable 10FT Type A Male to Female Extension $9.99</a></h2>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhOiV.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhOiV.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>10 Ft Cable, and braided with aluminum for durability. Chances are with a cord this long in a common area with a TV someone is bound to snag something on it at some point. This should give you some piece of mind.</p>
<hr />
<h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B071W16NVZ" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Velocifire Tenkeyless Mechanical Mini | $29.99</a></h2>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j77p2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j77p2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Keyboard that matches your request and has tactile feedback. Not a lot of reliable review data.</p>
<ul>
<li>29.718 cm length</li>
<li>Compact</li>
<li><a href="https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/switches/index.php?switch=Outemu-Brown" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Outemu Brown switch</a> mechanical</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<h2><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B019O9BLVY" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Redragon K552 Compact RGB Backlit | $39.99</a></h2>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2HsZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2HsZ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<ul>
<li>RGB blacklit with heavily customizable lighting patterns</li>
<li><a href="https://www.cherrymx.de/en/mx-original/mx-blue.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cherry MX Blue Switches</a></li>
<li>Metal-ABS Construction</li>
<li><strong>87</strong> tenkeyless</li>
<li><strong>35.4076 cm</strong> length</li>
</ul>
<p>First off, this keyboard is 87 tenkeyless and slightly over your 30 cm requirement. The reason I'm also recommending this keyboard is b/c it appears in several syndicated articles as a budget mechanical keyboard and has Cherry MX switches which I'm familiar with and are typing this recommendation with. Cherry MX is a household name for most casual and professional gamers.</p>
<p>Given my familiarity with the switches, reliable reviews I would consider this keyboard as well. Finally, you may want to play a racing game in the future and these typically lend themselves best to using the arrow keys, particularly if there is some sort of gear control on the cars.</p>
| 14178 | 2020-10-21T23:01:04.073 | |usb|keyboards|cable| | <p>I have a computer connected to a TV that currently uses a wireless keyboard (Microsoft Wireless 3000 v2.0).</p>
<p>Generally it works fine for basic things like Netflix where there isn't much input, however, if I play games I often end up not being able to move in game.</p>
<p>This is either to do with batteries running out or some sort of interference (I'm not 100% sure).</p>
<p>Interestingly I don't have the same problems with the mouse.</p>
<p>I'd like to buy a keyboard with a long cable ~9ft so that I can plug it in and also be sitting reasonably far away from the TV.</p>
<p>It has to be a USB cable as I don't have a PS/2 port.</p>
<p>It needs to be a full size keyboard but it doesn't need an extra number pad.</p>
| Is There A USB Keyboard With A 9ft Cable? |
<pre><code>These are top picks around 100$
</code></pre>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08BF4CZSV" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP 24mh FHD Monitor - Computer Monitor with 23.8-inch IPS Display (1080p) - Built-in Speakers and VESA Mounting - Height/Tilt Adjustment for Ergonomic Viewing - HDMI and DisplayPort - (1D0J9AA#ABA)</a></li>
</ol>
<p>FHD with built in speakers</p>
<pre><code>The below ones are without speakers but have audio Jack
</code></pre>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CK4W58Y" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Philips 246E9QDSB 24" frameless monitor, Full HD IPS, 129% sRGB, 75Hz, FreeSync, VESA, 4Yr Advance Replacement Warranty</a></li>
</ol>
<p>FHD with audio jack for headphones.</p>
<ol start="2">
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01HIA63AU" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sceptre 24 Inch Ultra Thin Ultra Slim 1080P 75Hz LED Monitor HDMI VGA, Metal Black (E248W-1920R)</a></li>
</ol>
| 14186 | 2020-10-23T15:29:43.527 | |monitors|led| | <ol>
<li>Full HD</li>
<li>1920 1080</li>
<li>Have internal speaker ( do not need additional speaker to hear sounds)</li>
<li>Price around $100 (cheaper better)</li>
<li>Size around 24 inch.</li>
<li>Support HDMI</li>
</ol>
<p>I've been searching for it in tokopedia and many specs aren't clear. Many "full hd" monitors are actually HD ready.</p>
<p>One thing that may qualify is this monitor</p>
<p><a href="https://www.tokopedia.com/utamaglodok/lg-led-tv-24-inch-full-hd-24tk42-garansi-resmi-lg?whid=9811" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tokopedia.com/utamaglodok/lg-led-tv-24-inch-full-hd-24tk42-garansi-resmi-lg?whid=9811</a></p>
<p>It's LG LED 24tk42</p>
<p>However, I cannot find the actual LG website that list the specs. There is the spec for LG 24TK4225 and those are HD ready and not full HD</p>
<p>I wonder if there is a site to compare specs for LED or if someone knows the exact item I can buy</p>
| I need 24 inch monitor LED with the following specs |
<h1>Yes, but they're expensive; you may want consider alternatives</h1>
<h2>Interfaces and protocols</h2>
<p>To understand why this is kinda a pain, we need to understand what's actually going on when we connect a monitor up to the various ports available to us. I've talked about this <a href="https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/379930/can-i-connect-a-windows-10-machine-with-usb-c-to-a-thunderbolt-display/379933#379933">a bit before</a>, but that focused on a slightly different case, so it's worth re-writing here.</p>
<h3>USB-C</h3>
<p>USB-C is a specification for a physical connector type (like USB-A, USB-B, mini USB, and micro USB), not a protocol in itself. While the physical connector does allow/limit what can be carried, it does not in itself specify what <em>is</em> carried. USB-C can carry (or not carry) USB data (ranging in speeds from 2.0's 380 Mb/s to 4.0's 40 Gb/s (upcoming)), power, or any one of the display-oriented <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C#Alternate_Mode_partner_specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">"Alternate Modes"</a> (DisplayPort, MHL, HDMI, and confusingly, Thunderbolt Alternate Modes respectively.) <strong>These alternate modes are how most inexpensive USB-C dongles work</strong>, as they allow almost entirely passive operation. Even dongles such as <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZVKTP53" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Anker's 7-in-1</a> that have separate power passthrough and data ports still use this mode, using a sort of internal USB hub to support the multiple USB devices while directing display functionality to the HDMI port. <strong>As a consequence, the data port on these devices cannot be used to output separately to another display</strong>, as the alternate modes only carry signaling for a single display (more on that later.) While you may be able to get the displays to mirror, they definitely won't act as separate displays.</p>
<h3>Thunderbolt</h3>
<p>Thunderbolt is... complicated. However, for the purposes of what we're doing, we can focus on a few main things. First, unlike USB, Thunderbolt supports daisy chaining for up to six devices; however, it does not support hubs. Second, although Thunderbolt 3 uses the USB-C port, <em>it does not use the alternate modes to carry video</em>, and instead embeds its own DisplayPort stream alongside the "main" PCI-e data stream. As a result, <strong>we can use a Thunderbolt hub with multiple displays.</strong> Unfortunately, the hardware required to support these devices is way, way more expensive; the specialized nature doesn't help costs either.</p>
<p>Aside: <a href="https://www.tomshardware.com/news/usb-4-faq,38766.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB 4 is effectively Thunderbolt, but handled by a different standard organization.</a> Since your particular computer has Thunderbolt, I'll be using the term here, but you can consider them to generally be interchangeable.</p>
<p>In terms of options, <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07JMH6BSY" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I'd recommend either the OWC 14-Port Thunderbolt 3 Dock</a>, the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B074G4X7CL" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cable Matters Thunderbolt 3 Dock</a>, or one of <a href="https://www.kensington.com/c/products/device-docking-connectivity-products/laptop-docks-usb-accessories/?srt=newest&flt=1296-thunderbolt%203%2C1296-thunderbolt%203%20%26%20usb-c%2C1296-thunderbolt%203%20%26%20usb-c%20(cross%20platform%20compatibility)%2C1296-thunderbolt%204&rslt=24" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kensington's various docks</a> (potentially the <a href="https://www.kensington.com/p/products/featured-products/sd5300t-and-sd5350t-thunderbolt-3-40gbps-dual-4k-dock-sd-card-reader-135w-adapter-winmac/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SD5300T</a>, as it's the cheapest and has requires no HDMI adapter.) They're all about $200, and they all fit the basic requirements (charging, HDMI/DP and USB-C video output), so it's just a question of what extra features you want (max power delivery, audio out, number of Thunderbolt ports, number of USB ports, SD connectivity, Ethernet, etc.</p>
<p>It's at this point thought that you might notice that the video outs on these hubs vary a bit—yet they all say they support HDMI, even if they have no physical HDMI port. It's time to talk about...</p>
<h3>DisplayPort</h3>
<p>DisplayPort is a video interface connection and the underlying video carrier for Thunderbolt and most USB-C-only displays. DisplayPort also contains two important features:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#DisplayPort_dual-mode_(DP++)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DisplayPort++</a>, where a the output device changes what it's outputting to effectively an HDMI signal, allowing a passive adapter to easily and cheaply convert the signal to HDMI (or DVI.) Sound familiar? This is very similar to how USB-C alternate modes work. Be careful though: they are <strong>not</strong> the same thing, and are not even interoperable. Even though USB-C has a DisplayPort alternate mode, because of the limitations of the physical USB-C connector, the DisplayPort alternate mode does <strong>not</strong> support DisplayPort++. Confusing, right? Let's run through some things to (hopefully) help make sense of this:
<ul>
<li>USB-C non-Thunderbolt → DisplayPort: works (uses DisplayPort alternate mode)</li>
<li>USB-C non-Thunderbolt → HDMI: works (uses HDMI alternate mode)</li>
<li>USB-C non-Thunderbolt → DisplayPort → HDMI: <strong>does not work</strong>, unless you use an active DisplayPort to HDMI adapter</li>
<li>Thunderbolt (any revision) → DisplayPort: works (Thunderbolt contains DisplayPort signal)</li>
<li>Thunderbolt (any revision) → DisplayPort → HDMI: works (uses DisplayPort++)</li>
<li>Thunderbolt 3 → USB-C → DisplayPort/HDMI: works (uses alternate modes)</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort#Multi-Stream_Transport_(MST)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MST</a>, where a single DisplayPort signal can be multiplex to support multiple monitors via use of a hub. However, this feature is <strong>not</strong> supported in macOS, meaning certain hubs like the <a href="https://medium.com/@sebvance/everything-you-need-to-know-about-macbook-pros-and-their-lack-of-displayport-mst-multi-stream-98ce33d64af4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Thunderbolt 3 G2</a> can only use one of their dedicated DisplayPort outs. Note that this is a software limitation, not a hardware one; if you use another OS on your laptop, MST should work.</li>
</ul>
<p>So what does this matter? Well, the first means that any can use a DisplayPort port (including Mini DisplayPort) or Thunderbolt port as an HDMI output; if the dock you want doesn't have HDMI, don't fret. The second means you'll need to be careful choosing, as you'll only have a maximum of two display outputs (one HDMI/DisplayPort/USB-C and one daisy-chained Thunderbolt.) Basically, you'll need at a minimum need 1x USB-C out (for your portable display) + 1x HDMI/DisplayPort out (for you normal display.) Some example configurations that would work:</p>
<ul>
<li>1x Thunderbolt 1/2 out + 1x USB-C out</li>
<li>1x Thunderbolt 3 + 1x USB-C, HDMI, or DisplayPort</li>
<li>1x USB-C + 1x HDMI or DisplayPort</li>
</ul>
<h3><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayLink" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DisplayLink</a></h3>
<p>I know you already mentioned that you don't want to use this, and I agree—albeit for different reasons. Still, it's worth going over.</p>
<p>DisplayLink, unlike the other things mentioned, uses a software solution to push a display signal over a normal USB interface. While this does solve the need to get another dedicated display signal and would allow you to use a cheap adapter like the Anker one linked earlier, DisplayLink comes with some annoying restrictions:</p>
<ol>
<li>You need a driver, which requires the OS to be up and running correctly as well.</li>
<li>The performance, while not awful, isn't good. Lag (in my experience) is very noticeable even in day-to-day use, in the multiple 100ms range.</li>
</ol>
<p>While I'm sure the orientation problem is fixable, these issues are not. As such, I'm going to agree that staying away from DisplayLink—even though the cost is very minimal due to the included solution—is a good idea.</p>
<h2>eGPU?</h2>
<p>Sidenote: I'm assuming you have an Intel based MacBook Pro, as Apple Silicon devices currently don't support eGPUs.</p>
<p>Given how expensive these Thunderbolt hubs are, there's one other option. Basically, an eGPU is just an external graphics card connected over Thunderbolt. This has some advantages and disadvantages:</p>
<p>Pros:</p>
<ul>
<li>More power to increase your performance in graphics-heavy workloads, such as gaming or 3D modeling.</li>
<li>The ability to connect more displays (as many as your graphics card can support) without the need for MST (which, again, isn't supported on macOS.)</li>
</ul>
<p>Cons:</p>
<ul>
<li>More expensive (~$150-250 for an enclosure + the cost of your chosen graphics card)</li>
<li>More power consumption/potentially extra noise, since you're powering a graphics card</li>
</ul>
<p>However, in your particular case, there's an additional complication: the USB-C port on your monitor. Unfortunately, most graphics cards don't have a USB-C port. There are a few cards which implement <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VirtualLink" rel="nofollow noreferrer">VirtualLink</a>, a proposed USB-C alternate mode that isn't quite the same as the other standardized Alternate Modes, but from a practical standpoint, is often largely compatible. So far though, the only graphics cards with USB-C ports are select Nvidia RTX 2000 and AMD Radeon RX 6000 cards. Unfortunately, Nvidia cards haven't been compatible with macOS since High Sierra (before the 2000 series debuted), and all RX 6000 series cards are out of stock everywhere due to supply issues. Additionally, the RX 6800, the cheapest compatible card currently available, retails for $579, with scalpers currently asking $850+. Yikes.</p>
<p>Still, if you can benefit from the performance and if you're willing to either wait for cheaper cards or pay the price, I'm going to recommend getting an eGPU. Between the increased performance and additional outputs, it offers a much better upgrade path—assuming Apple adds eGPU support for Apple Silicon. Given the limitations though, I understand if that's not your ideal path.</p>
<h2>Buy another monitor?</h2>
<p>Stupid as it may sound, you can get a pretty reasonable monitor for $200. Unless you have a real love for your ZenScreen, you may be better off getting another monitor—either a desktop one, or a different portable one.</p>
<p>In terms of other portable displays, I see two main options: 1. Get another dedicated display that has the option for separate power and data channels (likely USB-C for power and HDMI for data). 2. Get an iPad and use <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT210380" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sidecar</a> (or, if you want to use an older model, <a href="https://www.duetdisplay.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Duet Display</a>.) Again, I'm going to dismiss using a DisplayLink monitor for the reasons outlined earlier.</p>
<h2>Two cables</h2>
<p>Okay, yeah, this one is <em>really</em> dumb. Still though, it'll get you the full performance while costing next to nothing, since all you need is a cheap passive USB-C dongle with HDMI and power passthrough—of which there are tons. Yes, it's not as elegant having one cable go to the ZenScreen and one to everything else, but when faced with the proposition of spending $200, maybe it's an okay trade-off.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>First, props for reading this whole thing; I know it's a long one, but unfortunately, this stuff is kinda a mess. Unfortunately, the standard are complicated, and everyone made different trade-offs with different goals in mind. What exactly is the right solution for you is going to vary; however, I hope this can at least set you on the right path. If you have any further questions, please feel free to leave a comment and I'll be happy to help more.</p>
| 14260 | 2020-11-20T20:23:17.510 | |hdmi|usb-c| | <p>I have a MacBook pro which has 2 thunderport 3 ports. It connects to a HDMI monitor via HDMI cable, an ASUS ZenScreen MB16ACM which connects via usb-c.</p>
<p>I want to use the ZenScreen in portrait mode so I can only use the usb-c port, not the usb-a adapter. The other screen is using a usb-c hub to connect to HDMI. So if I use both screens I cannot charge the MacBook.</p>
<p>Is there a MacBook docking station which is able to:</p>
<ol>
<li>charge my MacBook via thunderbolt</li>
<li>output video to usb-c screen ZenScreen</li>
<li>output video via HDMI</li>
</ol>
<p>So I only need to connect my MacBook with the station by 1 cable, and the station would output video to both screens?</p>
| Recommendation of a usb-c docking station for a MacBook pro, an ASUS Zenscreen MB16ACM and a HDMI monitor? |
<p>Actually ended up (sort of) solving this in a fairly low tech way as I detailed at the end of the OP. I used a Y-splitter from the PC output and laptop output into the 'green' channel, so they are both connected simultaneously.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, this doesn't allow for full use of the surround, but I get stereo plus sub via the green channel with my speaker set up so this is good enough for me while using the laptop anyway.</p>
<p>Just thought I'd post to offer some closure to the thread.</p>
| 14275 | 2020-11-24T11:27:10.867 | |audio|speakers|splitters| | <p>I'm looking for a desktop switch/hub/amp/splitter (whatever you want to call it), which ideally outputs to 7.1 surround 3.5mm jacks (the green, orange and black ones - not sure what the official name for this is).</p>
<p>My base use case is that I want to have a second line to my computer speakers so I can plug my laptop in when I'm using that, so as a minimum I need a 2-in, 1-out arrangement. But I'll happily buy something more 'heavy duty' if needed, though I'd prefer it to be not much larger than a desktop headphone amp/DAC or similar.</p>
<p>At the moment, the best I can find is this (<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Switcher-Passive-Selector-Splitter-Black-RCA-Version/dp/B07CQXRRRV?ref_=ast_sto_dp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Switcher-Passive-Selector-Splitter-Black-RCA-Version/dp/B07CQXRRRV?ref_=ast_sto_dp</a>). This has the 2-in, 1-out arrangement, and I have an RCA to tri-3.5mm adapter for the speakers to handle the output. This isn't ideal though as it will lose the surround sound for the computer which is currently plugged directly in to the speakers.</p>
<p>I know there will be no surround sound from the laptop (which is fine), so really all I need to do is hook in to the green line with the laptop, but if I could get this in the form of a switch/hub to swap on the fly that would be great.</p>
<p>Other ideas I've not considered are welcome!</p>
| Desktop amp/switcher/splitter |
<p>LG's <a href="https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM69G-B-ultrawide-monitor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">29UM69G-B</a> and <a href="https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM59A-P-ultrawide-monitor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">29UM59A-P</a> are both 29" 2560x1080 ultrawides with USB-C and HDMI, with the 29UM69G-B apparently being the updated version. It's juusstt over the 30 cm mark at 32.8 cm without the stand; however, it still gets my recommendation as there are no other USB-C equipped ultrawides that are this small. Worst come to worst, you can strip the plastic housing off the monitor, which should hopefully get you a centimeter or two.</p>
<p>In terms of mounting, both monitors support a standard 75x75 VESA mount and weight only 5 kg, which is well supported by almost all monitor arms. Most monitor arms are shorter than the monitor when mounted level with the desk; here's an example of an adjustable arm set to a low position with a small monitor. Notice that the top of the arm is still below the top of the monitor, even though the monitor is below the top of the base (where the desk would be):
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSHEf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSHEf.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I recommend using <a href="https://monitorarms.co" rel="nofollow noreferrer">monitorarms.co</a> to find an arm that's within your budget and fits your mounting/look preferences. They have a convenient chooser, as well as well-documented specs for a ton of arms.</p>
| 14277 | 2020-11-24T18:39:53.733 | |monitors|monitor-stand| | <p>I'm looking for a monitor for my desk, but I have one mayor restriction. I have only 30 cm of space between the desk and a window. I'm searching a monitor that fit in that height. I have been searching for a monitor with adjustable stand and for ultra-wide monitor with that height but I can't find anything.</p>
<p>Also, the monitor should:</p>
<ul>
<li>be at least 1080p (I think this shouldn't be a problem nowadays)</li>
<li>have HDMI connection</li>
<li>desirable USB-C connection</li>
</ul>
<p>I prefer an ultra-wide monitor, so I can put away the laptop, but I don't really care. The most important thing is that it fits into the height I have.</p>
| Looking for a monitor to fit in a 30 cm height place |
<h1><a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=4,22&sort=-rammax&page=1&D=68719476736,2147483648000" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pick from this list</a></h1>
<p>As @peterh mentioned, 970 and 990 boards (generally) support 64GB of RAM (ignore the ECS boards that list 128 GB, that's incorrect.) Since these boards aren't widely available anymore (due to their age and relatively limited popularity), a specific recommendation is pretty much useless as it's entirely dependent on what you can find on the relatively-volatile used motherboard market.</p>
<p>However, given the cost of 16 GB DDR3 UDIMMs, you may find it cheaper to just upgrade your entire platform (either to one with DDR4 support or with more RAM slots.) Given the age of the FX platform, you'll probably get a nice performance and feature set bump along the way too.</p>
| 14295 | 2020-11-30T18:08:43.943 | |motherboard| | <p>I am looking for a motherboard, which</p>
<ul>
<li>has AM 3+ CPU socket</li>
<li>support at least 64GB RAM (128GB is better)</li>
<li>DDR3 memory modules</li>
</ul>
<p>From 32GB, there is a lot. For 64GB, I found nothing.</p>
| AM 3+ socket mainboard with at least 64GB DDR3 support |
<p>You can simply buy an external Hard drive case plus a hard drive of your choice.</p>
<p>For a 3.5" drive, I've found this two options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Unykach UK 35303</li>
<li>i-Tec MySafe</li>
</ul>
<p>Then, you can attach any 3TB, 4TB or 6TB 3.5" drive you wish.</p>
<p>In case wou want to use a standard USB 3.1 enclosure, you can easily find USB 3.1 to USB C cables.</p>
<p>A lower capacity solution but faster, and much lighter is to buy a M.2 USB C enclosure (UGREEN, Sabrent, Orico, etc.) plus a M.2 SSD drive (Corsair, Western Digital, Crucial, etc.), like a 4TB Corsair @ 580€, a 2TB WD, Crucial or Corsair, all of them at around 280€). The advantage of this solution is that you have a really light-weight external drive.</p>
<p>Another alternative would be to have a USB RAID enclosure for 2.5" drives:
LogiLink ua0285 USB 3.0</p>
<p>Finally, another solution but probably a one you are not interested in (not very portable) is to have a Detached USB Storage (DAS) Raid solution for 3.5" drives like:</p>
<ul>
<li>QNAP TR-002</li>
<li>QNAP TR-004</li>
<li>TerraMaster D2-310</li>
<li>TERRAMASTER D5-300C</li>
<li>Fantec QB-35US3R</li>
<li>ORICO 9558RU3</li>
</ul>
| 14305 | 2020-12-02T14:28:23.397 | |usb|hard-disk|usb-c| | <p>Does it really exists as for now? I want 3Tb or 4Tb of external storage.</p>
<p>I am searching particularly for a capacious HDD able to store my files and I want it to have fast interface onboard, at least USB3.0 Gen 1 or USB3.1.</p>
<p>So far I wasn't able to find it anywhere neither in my region nor globally: the only one I found was <a href="https://www.transcend-info.com/Products/No-987" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Transcend ESD250C</a> which is only 960Gb, couple of Seagate models not more than 1Tb, and a suspicious <a href="https://www.lacie.com/gb/en/products/rugged/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lacie brand</a>, which doesn't seems trustworthy.</p>
<p>Is there any well-known vendors which produce the stuff or it hasn't been developed yet?</p>
| Large external 2.5" HDD with USB Type C connector? |
<p><a href="http://www.norsam.com/rosetta.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.norsam.com/rosetta.html</a>
<a href="http://www.norsam.com/lanlreport.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.norsam.com/lanlreport.html</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/132793-the-10-million-year-sapphire-hard-disk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/132793-the-10-million-year-sapphire-hard-disk</a></p>
<p>The Sapphire disc should last long enough.</p>
<p>There was even a kickstarter for it. Apparently now you can actually do it from this website <a href="http://www.fahrenheit2451.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.fahrenheit2451.com/</a></p>
| 14330 | 2020-12-08T07:00:51.067 | |usb|hard-disk|ssd|data-storage| | <p>This might be a bit too fictional but here's the scenario. Task is to store small amount of data (Less than 1Mb) for centuries to come.</p>
<p>Environment specs and possible hazards follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>Usually at room temperature, but possible heat/cold spikes. Meaning average is 22°C, with -20°C and 45°C extremes.</li>
<li>Electromagnetic waves, slight magnetic force, dense radio signals, are included but not too strong.</li>
<li>Humidity level of the container is 70%</li>
<li>The storage solution won't be exposed to any brute force</li>
<li>Atmosphere of the environment is dusty.</li>
<li>Standard air pressure</li>
</ul>
<p>The storage solution is expected to be available after 100 years of dormant rest(will not be connected to an electric circuit, will not be read). In these circumstances, <strong>what is the best storage device to ensure data that is stored will be safe and ready to be read after 100 years ?</strong></p>
<p><em>For the sake of experiment, assume that the budget is unlimited or trivial.</em></p>
<p>Harddisks, SSD's, floppy disks, optical drives and many other are available and can be considered. My bet is harddisk, since logical gates or latches in SSD might be released after a long period of time with no electricity. Meaning the data will be lost or partially corrupted.</p>
<p>Every idea counts, thank you.</p>
<p>PS. Not certain if this is the right stack site for this question. Couldn't find a one that qualifies better.</p>
| Long Time Storage Solution |
<h2>I recommend Logitech's MX Master 3.</h2>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyWeK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyWeK.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<ul>
<li>Internal battery, with USB-C (and fast charging!)</li>
<li>Bluetooth and USB dongle support</li>
<li>Cross-platform support; Bluetooth works on all systems with support for Bluetooth mice. Optional configuration software is supported on macOS and Windows.</li>
<li>Medium-large</li>
<li>7 buttons, vertical and horizontal scroll wheels; vertical scroll wheel supports ratcheted and free-spinning scrolling</li>
<li>Real mouse ;)</li>
</ul>
<p>It's quite expensive at an MSRP of $99.99, but both it and it's cousins have been very well received by critics, and frankly, given it's feature set and backing from Logitech, I consider it well-worth it since you mentioned that price isn't a big issue for you.</p>
| 14342 | 2020-12-09T16:10:33.867 | |bluetooth|mice|apple|usb-c|macos| | <p>I want a wireless mouse to use with my MacBook Pro 2018.<br />
Requirements:</p>
<ul>
<li>Internal battery.</li>
<li>Rechargeable by USB-C.</li>
<li>Usable while charging.</li>
<li>Bluetooth.</li>
<li>Compatible with current macOS.</li>
<li>Fits large hand.</li>
<li>Allows at least left-click, right-click, vertical scrolling.</li>
<li>Real mouse, not a touchpad. Trackpoint would be wonderful if integrated in a keyboard that fits <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/14341/bluetooth-keyboard-with-mac-layout-and-internal-battery-charged-via-usb-c">this question</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>Any price is fine.</p>
<p>Non-solutions:</p>
<ul>
<li>Apple's Magic Mouse is not a solution because it uses a Lightning cable, rather than USB-C.</li>
<li>The AE WISH ANEWISH mouse is not a solution because it uses a micro-USB cable, rather than USB-C.</li>
</ul>
<p>QA:</p>
<ul>
<li><em>Why not removable batteries? Because they are bothersome, and I work in places where batteries are not readily available.</em></li>
<li><em>Why USB-C? Because USB-C is the only cable I use. I don't want another cable laying around just for this. All of my devices are Android so USB-C is enough to charge everything.</em></li>
<li><em>Why Bluetooth? Because dongles are unaesthetic and easily lost.</em></li>
</ul>
| Mac-compatible Bluetooth mouse with internal battery charged via USB-C |
<p><strong>For a work environment</strong> I would recommend nvidia quadro. Not the p600 or p620 those are likely to be too small and under perform although they would work and be the cheapest option. The previous model line goes P1000, P2000, P4000, [P5000], P6000. With price going from least to most expensive. I think the current model line right now is RTX but buying the P model ought to save you some money and would perform just fine.</p>
<p>The P2000 is still a thin 1 slot card and does not require supplemental pcie power from the power supply. I would recommend either this or the P1000.</p>
<p>The P4000 is still a 1 slot card but requires supplemental power so make sure something like that will work in your setup.</p>
<p>The P6000 is a dual slot card requiring supplemental power, and quite expensive. I would not get this unless you know you can make use of its performance.</p>
<p>They would all support up to 4 monitors, the cards only have DP outputs so plan for dp-to-hdmi adapters and whatnot.</p>
<p>There's the ongoing debate of geforce vs quadro, and geforce while you can often get the same performance or better for less money the quadro is business oriented and will provide <em>stable drivers, no shenanigans,</em> and may allow specific configuration for 3d render of graphic or CAD software whereas geforce would not. For business you typically do not worry about the 20% markup or whatever for the quadro line of graphics cards vs the consumer geforce. Getting a new card less than $180 usd that's not likely to happen. If you're running on a 19" monitor 1280x1024 then a p620 would probably be ok, but a 27" @ 2560x1440 or better then you'll be wanting a p1000 and a 4k monitor probably a p2000.</p>
| 14355 | 2020-12-14T20:30:57.607 | |graphics-cards|desktop|multiple-monitors|display-port|3d-display| | <p>We're seriously considering upgrading (read: replacing) a small handful of workstations (desktops) for our department at work. No in-house IT, so I'm asked to do a suggestion myself.</p>
<p>The workstations will mainly be used for <a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/eplan/about" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EPLAN</a> (including Pro Panel, 3D) and AutoCAD, which are poorly optimized and primarily running single-threaded. So most of it is fairly straight-forward, except I'm not sure what kind of GPU to put into it.</p>
<p>The company behind Eplan suggests a Quadro 600 (don't laugh, it sports a whopping 640 MHz GPU clock) on their website. Which makes little sense, since that card was released 10 years ago and has been end-of-life for quite some time now. I know that specific card is more of a minimum-requirement than an optimal one anyway, so we need more power than that. Probably a little under the range of a GTX 1060, but that's primarily aimed at gaming and a bit expensive (cheapest one currently goes for 225 euros). Perhaps an RX 570? Probably still overkill and I have no experience with that series.</p>
<p>We don't need to run Crysis at 60 FPS. We need some dedicated RAM, but not that much. We need 1 monitor that draws 3D relatively smooth and 2 others for secondary tasks. Preferably all on DisplayPort, but 2 DP and 1 HDMI will work fine too. Preferably something that's still in production and a good bang-for-your-buck ratio. Perhaps a professional version (with 3 monitor connections) of a GT 1030 makes sense?</p>
<p>My gut tells me we need a base clock speed of 1250 MHz or higher, but I couldn't tell you why if I wanted to.</p>
<p>In short:</p>
<ul>
<li>Render 3D for CAD applications</li>
<li>3 monitor connections (preferably 3 DP or 2 DP and HDMI, all 3 1920x1080)</li>
<li>Cheap (at most 150 EUR (180 USD) at today's NLD price, preferably less (under 110 EUR))</li>
<li>ATI/AMD or nVidia</li>
<li>Stable drivers (no shenanigans, we'll be using these cards 40 hours a week)</li>
<li>Outshine by a decent amount, and more modern than a <a href="https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/quadro-600.c1318" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Quadro 600</a></li>
</ul>
<p>The rest of the system is still flexible, so there's not many limitations. If it needs PCIe 3.0 x16, I'll get a board that supports it.</p>
| GPU in new CAD workstation |
<p>A few seconds after posting I got my answer - AMD R7 250 available from $30 will do the trick.</p>
| 14370 | 2020-12-16T15:16:37.190 | |linux|4k| | <p>looking for a native Linux 4.x kernel supported 4K capable graphics card for occasional graphical console admin work.</p>
<p>I share a massive 55" 4K TV between my workstations and savers, and it grates me to work on the servers at 1920x4080 with gnomes 'Kindergarten' sized native text and icons. At 4K the entire output is reasonable and pleasant, but only my workstations have cards capable of driving that.</p>
<p>Looking for a recommendation on what to get that I can purchase 2nd hand as cheap as possible from ebay.</p>
<p>The price-cutoff point is what I use today for 2x Linux workstations I have - AMD RX 560 at ~$80 from ebay.</p>
<p>I was hoping for something much cheaper - $20-$40 range.</p>
| Low Cost, Server, Linux 4.x Graphics card with support for 4k for graphics consolee |
<p>you can just amazon "external sas".</p>
<p>for example "HighPoint RocketStor 6414S 6Gb/s SAS/SATA 4-Bay Storage Tower Enclosure" for $289.</p>
<p>you are not likely to find anything <em>economical</em>, not with SAS. SAS is server work environment, not for home use. If you <em>picked up a couple sas disks</em> you may want to just cut your losses now if this is for personal use. You will still need to get something like an SFF-8086 external sas cable to connect the sas enclosure to your computer, and then you will need an internal pcie SAS [raid] card within your pc- brand new a genuine dell of lsi/avago can run you $1000 depending where you buy it from otherwise you can get lucky finding one for $100 on amazon. A used Dell PERC H730P for $245 i see on amazon. But you will need to cobble it all together, and you take your chances.</p>
<p>you would be better off amazon'ing a <strong>SATA</strong> external where 4+ TB is the norm now and very economical. Even if you got those sas disk(s) for free, it's not worth it when sata disk prices are as low as they are.</p>
<p>note: SAS hardware can support sata disks... sata disks can plug into a sas backplane and they make SAS-to-SATA breakout cables. But a SAS disk cannot plug into a SATA connector. And be aware there are various SFF-#### cables supporting sas so you have to make sure all your hardware can plug into each other.</p>
| 14375 | 2020-12-17T16:39:03.487 | |hard-disk|raid|drive-enclosure|sas| | <p>I picked up a couple SAS HDDs that I would like to place in an external enclosure. However, I am struggling to find any that supports SAS HDDs. Does this exist? Could you please recommend any? I would ideally like that enclosure to support JBOD or RAID 0/1 and have a USB interface. Anything below $200 would be alright. No other constraints (power / size / noise). A simple search did not yield any results.</p>
| External Enclosure for 2 SAS HDDs |
<p>There is no USB-C splitter come out this year because there is not single produced chipset for USB-C Splitter/Hub.</p>
<p>And if your laptop using USB-C for charging input there, the data pin is locked automatically because it was for reading voltage and making it to lock the pin for setting data input or voltage input in charging mode.</p>
<p>Explanation in USB-C pin:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDNSf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDNSf.jpg" alt="Click here" /></a>
From:<a href="https://medium.com/@leung.benson/usb-type-c-s-configuration-channel-31e08047677d" rel="nofollow noreferrer">medium.com</a></p>
<p>The CC2 port basically detecting the port whether it is for charging input or drawing power from it for the OTG/connected device..</p>
<p>You can try to draw and connect the USB2.0 interface but I will not do it while charging :) is too risky for precious SSD. Use a cheap USB 2.0 Flashdisk if it works then you can do it for your SSD but your SSD will be downgraded to USB 2.0 Speed. for using 2.0 interface.</p>
<p>PS: the risk worth your laptop or SSD. choose wisely :)</p>
| 14440 | 2021-01-02T21:25:01.240 | |usb|power|splitters|usb-c| | <p>I need a USB-C splitter to connect my power adapter and an external SSD drive to my laptop, which has a single USB-C port, used for power input.</p>
<hr />
<p><strong>To the moderators</strong> - This is the copy of a previous post which has been canceled because "off-topic". I am looking around for a USB-C splitter to buy, and not asking to troubleshoot hardware or technical support for hardware. What follow are technical details about what I need and what I found on the market so far. Please, let me know if this is good enough or if I need other changes to comply with this forum requirements. Thank you.</p>
<hr />
<p>What I could find so far are products which are designed for mobile phones (e.g. Belkin USB-C Splitter), which do not support the power requirements and bandwidth I need.</p>
<p>I understand you cannot get data from two USB-C inputs and make them flow into a signle USB-C output, but this is true only if the sum of the input data flows is larger than what the interface can handle.</p>
<p>I know you can connect devices with a serial topology, but you can do it only if the devices have two USB-C ports, which is rare.</p>
| Why do proper USB-C splitters not exist? [RETRY] |
<p>A larger USB hub will always contain multiple USB hub ICs daisy chained inside so getting a single device is not necessarily advantageous. But, searching, say, Newegg for usb 3.2 gen 2 hub finds a ton of of devices these days, that's not a problem any more.</p>
<p>The problem is <em>bandwidth</em>. 10 ports at 10 gigabits would consume 100 gigabits and there's absolutely no way currently to get this much bandwidth. The most bandwidth you can potentially get out of a laptop is utilizing four PCIe 4.0 lanes (like from an M.2 socket utilizing a OCuLink riser with a redriver). Actually. Lenovo's new ThinkBook 14+ 2024 will feature OCuLink , the GPD Win Max 2 also has it. That's 64Gbps. The <a href="https://www.1-dock.com/en-us/#/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">One Dock</a> can convert that to a PCIe slot. Alas, AFAIK there no USB root hub connecting over PCIe 4.0 so this avenue while promising currently doesn't go far.</p>
<p>Using more traditional interfaces, the best we can do is USB4. The ADT-Link UT3G is utilizing the ASMedia ASM2464PD and can nearly provide as much bandwidth as PCIe 3.0 x4 possibly can, benchmarks showed around 30Gbps. You can add a dual ASM3142 card like the SI-PEX20233. Each ASM3142 provides two 10gbps ports from two PCIe 3.0 lanes -- it's slightly oversubscribed but not terribly.</p>
| 14473 | 2021-01-11T14:34:19.183 | |usb|hub|usb-c| | <p>I am looking for <em>an <strong>active</strong></em> USB 3.2 Gen 1 -- or preferably Gen 2 -- hub which comes with at least <strong>ten</strong> usable <strong>ports</strong>, half of which should be USB-C sockets and the other half of which should be USB-A sockets.</p>
<p>I would prefer for the uplink to be USB-C based. From my cursory research on the topic this may even be a technical requirement, but I wasn't a 100% clear when I finished researching this topic.</p>
<p>No need for the various "standards" for quick charging.</p>
<p>PS: to my knowledge, I do have two USB-C uplink ports built into my PC.</p>
| Looking for an active USB 3.2 Gen 1 (or 2) hub with at least 10 ports, half of which are USB-A and USB-C respectively |
<p>The <a href="https://www.token2.eu/shop/product/token2-molto-1-multi-profile-totp-hardware-token" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Molto-1 by Token2</a> is a programmable, multi profile hardware token. I own one of those for a few months now and use it on a daily basis.</p>
<p>The Molto-2 supports 10 different profiles, 6 or 8 digit codes and SHA-1 and SHA-256 hash algorithms. Google Authenticator uses 6 digit codes with SHA-1, so the Molto-1 is fully compatible.</p>
<p>Programming happens with an Android app over NFC, so be sure to use a smartphone you trust. Alternatively the Molto-1i supports iOS. RTC resynchronisation also happens with the app. The app itself has pretty rough edges, but you can figure out how to use it.</p>
<p>One downside is the non-replaceable battery. It is supposed to last 4-5 years, and it has a battery indicator warning you early enough when it's running low.</p>
<p>I just realized they have a new multi-profile hardware token, the <a href="https://www.token2.eu/shop/product/molto-2-multi-profile-totp-programmable-hardware-token" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Molto-2</a>. It is USB-programmable and features a bigger display for presenting QR codes, as well as USB HID emulation for automatic entry of TOTP codes on a computer.</p>
| 14512 | 2021-01-22T19:47:40.773 | |security| | <p>Looking for a small, dedicated device to perform the same function as an authenticator token app. Ideally, open source with the ability to select and display tokens without connecting to anything.</p>
<p>Think traditional RSA hardware token, only with the ability to add other tokens and flip through them.</p>
<p>(I don't see a related tag for anything like this, feel free to edit)</p>
| Hardware token supporting multiple 2FA codes |
<p>Your current laptop is actually quite decent, but as you are using a power savings CPU this is likely limiting your compile speed as mentioned.</p>
<p>The class of laptop you are looking for is a <strong>workstation laptop</strong>. These are typically sold for use in specialized business contexts. Because of your requirement of no GPU due to battery concerns, this means that we are forced to throw out a significant segment of the market as Gaming laptops are usually going to deliver best bang for the buck for the specs that you desire.</p>
<p>I decided to push your budget in favor of higher quality components.</p>
<h2><a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-laptops-and-notebooks/precision-7750-workstation/spd/precision-17-7750-laptop/xctop775017us_vivp?view=configurations&configurationid=f2a858fd-e92b-4b33-91c3-8f72419a8808" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DELL Precision 7750 Workstation $2,276.67</a></h2>
<ul>
<li><strong>Intel Xeon W-10885M (8 Core, 16MB Cache)</strong></li>
<li><strong>Intel UHD Graphics (only, Integrated into CPU)</strong></li>
<li><strong>95Whr 6 Cell Li-ion Battery</strong></li>
<li>32GB RAM (2x 16GB)</li>
<li>Generic 256GB SSD (M.2 PCIe NVMe)</li>
</ul>
<p>Because I am recommending a laptop you can buy from DELL directly, this configuration is customizable depending on what you want specifically. I've just pre-selected what I suspect you would desire (e.g. lowest resolution screen to reduce power consumption).</p>
<hr />
<p>If you are seeking to lower the price I found a lower spec-ed configuration on <a href="https://www.newegg.com/gray-dell-precision-7750-mainstream/p/1TS-000A-0CK44?&quicklink=true" rel="nofollow noreferrer">newegg for $1,174.99</a>, but I could only find refurbished laptops of the 17" size variant. At that price point I didn't think you would want to shoulder the risk of the battery already been somewhat worn and therefore sacrificing your battery life. You could also try looking on Amazon, but the spec filtering on there is rather lackluster.</p>
<hr />
<p>A final note I would like to attach, is that if you find the performance to be sufficient, and want to extend battery life, you could try installing the <a href="https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/29183/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel XTU CPU utility</a> and purposefully shortening the turbo boost time (recommended) or try undervolting (not recommended if you value system stability). Note that voltage has a squared relationship with power consumption, while frequency has a linear relationship.</p>
| 14613 | 2021-02-19T07:07:37.030 | |laptop| | <p>Because of the nature of my work, I need a laptop with a big screen, 6-8 cores and a large battery. A network port would be good too, if possible. My budget is about 1200-2500$. But the problem is, I only either find gaming laptops with really expensive GPU's (and that run out of battery incredibly quick because of them, since they are always running) and lots of features I'll never even need or incredibly expensive design Notebooks that are way above my budget (Like the XPS 17) that often don't even have any usb ports.</p>
<p>So whats a good laptop with some CPU horsepower, that can run for a long time without being plugged in and has a large screen?</p>
| Whats a good 17 inch work laptop with many cores and a large battery |
<p>So for posterity, I went with the X-bows Natural. It is not wireless and doesn't have a separate numpad. There is a more expensive one with this feature. I've flashed the center backspace key to be delete and the left spacebar to be backspace. The process is easy with videos on X-bows website explaining how to do it.</p>
<p>It needs some getting used to but this seems like a good fit for me. I get the feeling that the keyboard actually forces me to be more correct with how I type since the columnar layout makes it stranger to not use the correct fingers for typing.</p>
<p>The keyboard is mechanical with silent brown switches. There is also backlighting.</p>
| 14619 | 2021-02-20T12:04:38.313 | |keyboards| | <p>So I'm looking for a new keyboard to replace my Microsoft sculpt ergonomic. I really like the sculpt but before the sculpt I had an other Microsoft ergonomic keyboard where one could remap the left spacebar to be backspace. This is such an underestimated feature on ergonomic keyboards!</p>
<p>Best candidates so far:
Microsoft sculpt (missing my key feature otherwise perfect), Logitech ergo K860 (missing my key feature, wireless), Matias ergo pro programmable (separate pieces, not wireless, programmable).</p>
<p>Requirements</p>
<ul>
<li>Ergonomic</li>
<li>programmable split spacebar</li>
</ul>
<p>Big plus otherwise</p>
<ul>
<li>wireless (moved from req. to simplify)</li>
<li>separate numpad (this is probably very unusual, )</li>
<li>One piece (not like matias or ergodox so I can have it in my lap)</li>
<li>quiet</li>
<li>TKL (since I mostly do officework I want the mouse closer to the center)</li>
</ul>
<p>Mechanical or not doesn't matter.</p>
<p>Suggestions?</p>
| Replace Microsoft sculpt. TKL, wireless and programmable |
<p>In the end, I now ended up with a <a href="https://www.skagen.com/de-de/smartwatches/smartwatches/hybrid-hr-smartwatches/?prefn1=platform&prefv1=JORN%2038MM%20HYBRID%20HR%7CJORN%2042MM%20HYBRID%20HR" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Skagen Jorn Hybrid HR</a>, which is technically identical to the Fossil Hybrid HR watches.</p>
<p>Yes, by default it also forces you to use the Fossil cloud services - but I learned about <a href="https://gadgetbridge.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gadgetbridge</a>, an Open Source and Free Software Android app which supports a whole bunch of wearables without the need for any cloud service at all.</p>
<p>BTW, Gadgetbridge also supports the Pebble mentioned above, besides some Fitness wrist bands and similar devices.</p>
<p>For many of the supported devices, this is supposed to work mostly flawlessly.</p>
<p>In case of the Skagen Hybrid watch, this solution definitely isn't for everyone, as you need to obtain the watches' crypto key in order to fully enable its features. But if you're technically savy, it works thanks to the amazing effort lots of developers put into the software, and the Skagen then is really close to my dream solution...</p>
<p>It runs about 2 weeks with one charge, has analog hands and an always-on epaper display which can show custom widgets with measurements etc. It also comes with some pre-installed apps for smartphone music player remote control, weather forecast, stopwatch and timer, and, thanks to Gadgetbridge, in addition allows custom apps and widgets to be written and installed.</p>
<p>Just testing it now since a few days, but so far it looks <em>really</em> promising!</p>
| 14656 | 2021-03-06T16:20:04.087 | |smart-device|wearable-technology| | <p>Mh, difficult to summarize... I don't like fat bulky smart watches that only display the time when I wiggle my wrist or press a button.</p>
<p>On the other hand, features like motion sensors and whatever on your wrist, and phone notifications, can be helpful at times. I was very interested when learning about the Skagen Jorn Hybrid HR smart watch (a rebranded Fossil HR Hybrid smartwatch), which still looks ok in size, an uses an always-on epaper display.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, it seems to require a Fossil online account for everything, even to display local notifications from my phone, or to perform sleep recording, which is a no-go for me.</p>
<p>While trying to validate whether this is true, I also learned about the Sigma iD.RUN HR, which claims to also work "offline", but does not really look like a classical watch.</p>
<p>I'm not really looking for recommendations, which by nature are strongly opinion-based, but rather hints which smart watches are there at all which come close to what I have in mind (in descending order of priority/importance):</p>
<ol>
<li>Does not require an online "Cloud based" account to which it transfers data. (Fetching updates from some server is fine with me.) (Well, at least does not transfer much data during operation, even if it may require the account to set it up.)</li>
<li>Looks somewhat like a classical watch, but not too bulky. Mechanical watch hands would be nice, but not mandatory. (The Skagen HR actually looks quite ok in this regard.)</li>
<li>Connects to an Android phone (e.g. Bluetooth and/or NFC) and can show notifications and reminders from this phone (and maybe provide a way to dismiss those notifications).</li>
<li>Time (and preferrably date) are always readable.</li>
<li>Has motion sensors for gimmicks like step counting or sleep tracking.</li>
<li>Has even more obscure sensors like pulse/heart rate sensor and/or blood oxygen sensor.</li>
<li>Preferrably runs for a week or longer before it requires recharging.</li>
</ol>
<p>Especially information about whether a cloud / online account is required, and for which features it's needed / which data is exchanged seems to be really hard to come by. For the Skagen HR, even the tech specs on the website didn't mention the mandatory online account.</p>
| "Watch-like" Smart Watch With Android Notification Support but Without Mandatory Cloud Synchronization |
<p>Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse MX (I own 3) has a physical button that turns "detents" on and off. When in the free running position, one slightly faster than normal flick of your finger will make the mousewheel spin for almost 20 seconds (i think they originally called this Hyperscroll, but can't find a reference to it now). It is a large mouse. Uses rechargeable or replaceable AA battery (for me a nice feature). A third party program allows even more settings than normal. Google "uberOptions".</p>
<p>The MX Master (version 1? Only tried a friends one) free-runs automatically when the mousewheel goes over a certain speed and reverts back to detented under that speed. It has a manual (non mechanical) override button too and from memory the speed threshold can be set. (called Magspeed). At the time I tried it (18+? months ago) the setting software was a new system and annoyingly dumbed down... they claimed they were going to add features, but I don't know the status now. Used a proprietary rechargeable battery, advantage longer use time, disadvantage you can't just pop another battery in when it dies on you.</p>
<p>Logitech has a "Smooth Scrolling" plugin for Firefox, but it didn't work well for me when I first tried it over 2 years ago (apparently conflicted with my 3D mouse). Also, apparently doesn't work with their gaming mice.</p>
<p>Note there's a setting in Windows for the amount of lines scrolled per wheel increment... I believe it's 3 by default, but you may prefer less by the sound of it.</p>
| 14753 | 2021-04-04T04:55:14.327 | |wireless|mice| | <p>I am looking for a wireless mouse that has continuous scroll. Mostly i find wheels that have a discrete movement and are not sensible to small turns in the scroll. I would like that even an small amount of change in the scroll wheel to result in a small scrolling in the display, and a smooth spinning wheel, free of this markdowns as well. How can i know if a mouse has this feature or not? what is the name of it?</p>
<p>I found this "infinite scroll" technology that probably does what i want but its not exactly the same, as far as i understood. Also the examples of such mice i've seen are Logitech G series, specifically G305, which people say have small size and wouldn't fit for me, although it seems to be not that small. I've also found that Logitech M510 has a wheel that moves "freely enough" but i'm not sure what this means exactly. So i'm looking for recommendations of a wireless mouse with this feature for big hands or some information that leads me to it. Thank you.</p>
| Mouse with continuous scrolling |
<p>If you connect everything up through HDMI, it should work fine. I myself only use one optical connection from my TV to my receiver, because my receiver pre-dates HDMI. So the audio data from my PS4 goes through HDMI to the TV which passes it through the TOS-link to the receiver. I haven't encountered any problems with codecs. All codecs that the receiver supports work and otherwise it just falls back to PCM channels.</p>
<p>So in short, I don't think you will even need optical connections, since you are buying them all new.</p>
| 14764 | 2021-04-08T07:35:07.020 | |hdmi|4k|sound-system|blu-ray| | <p>I want to keep hold of my current 42” smart hd tv for now and buy a 4K / blu ray / 3D / hdr player and a sound bar.</p>
<p>My tv has an audio optical input.</p>
<p>My blu ray player has an audio optical output which I plug into my tv, it also has connectors and speakers.</p>
<p>I’ve looked at sound bars and 4K players and they both have a single audio optical port.</p>
<p>I want to still be able to watch stuff on my smart tv apps (Netflix etc). And from my Apple TV.</p>
<p>So not just watch I want to use these with the sound bar and a new player.</p>
<p>So my question is how will my tv smart apps, Apple TV and 4K player play sound through a sound bar if one device doesn’t have 2 audio optical ports?</p>
| How can a sound bar play sound with single optical ports multiple devices? |
<p>Some drives are not intended to be used in RAID.<br />
The reasons can vary. Sometimes drives are just not built to run 24/7 and will die prematurely in a hot RAID box. Another concern is whether the hard drive firmware has a bug or incompatibility with certain SATA or RAID controllers.</p>
<p>The manufacturer's compatibility list is confirming that the RAID controller in the NAS and the drive firmware do not have any incompatibility. There are always going to be drives that were never considered though, and could be completely fine in that NAS.</p>
<p>One of the more important features that a hard drive can optionally support for RAID is <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Error_recovery_control" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TLER or CCTL</a>. When a drive doesn't have this it may lead to false-positive critical errors showing up in the NAS when a drive takes just a little too long to respond. (So the NAS thinks it's dead.)</p>
| 14765 | 2021-04-08T07:41:11.973 | |hard-disk|nas|compatibility| | <p>Most manufacturers of NAS appliances (like <a href="https://www.synology.com/en-global/compatibility?search_by=products&model=DS212%2B&category=hdds_no_ssd_trim&p=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Synology</a> etc) have compatibility lists that sum up which hard drives are compatible with their models. How important is it to follow these? Are all SATA drives created equal, but are some drives more equal than others?</p>
<p>Are there drives that consume power out of spec? Or generate more heat than the enclosure can dissipate? What are the considerations?</p>
<p>I'm asking this from the Home and Small Business, entry-level device, perspective. My experience with building computers is that if the form factor fits the enclosure and the connector fits, it always Just Works™.</p>
| How important are HDD compatibility lists for NAS appliances? |
<p>One option might be that you have Nvidia DSR enabled.
to check: open up Nvidia control panel, go to Manage 3d setting and search for DSR-Factors. in your case 2.00x might be enabled</p>
| 14775 | 2021-04-13T08:09:00.460 | |graphics-cards|monitors|windows| | <p>I just bought my shinny new screen and the last one I bought was 8 years ago.</p>
<p>It's <a href="https://www.mi-store.com.au/xiaomi-mi-curved-gaming-monitor-34#additional" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xiaomi 34" Curved 144Hz Gamining Monitor</a></p>
<p>On Windows 10, I was surprised to see there is a resolution: 6880 * 2880!!!</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mw1xG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mw1xG.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Oh dear, I checked the specs of this monitor, but on its official website, it's 3400*1440.</p>
<p>I also checked in Ubuntu 20.04, I do not have that high resolution.</p>
<p>Could anyone explain why this is happening?</p>
<p>Btw, my GPU is NVIDIA RTX 2080 Ti.</p>
| Why is there a 6880*2880 resolution on my Xiaomi 34" curved monitor |
<p>Pretty much any card will work, as long as your power supply can handle it. Are you using the stock power supply, or have you put a new one in? If you have a new PSU, I like the GTX 650 Ti as a cheaper GPU. Works pretty well for ~$50 USD used. What's your budget?</p>
| 14799 | 2021-04-24T09:29:29.343 | |graphics-cards|ubuntu| | <p>I’m looking for a graphics card compatible with the Fujitsu Primergy tx100 s3p, any recommendations? I will mostly use it for development using Android Studio on Ubuntu.</p>
| Graphics card for Fujitsu Primergy tx100 s3p |
<p>I've purchased a couple of years ago an in-house wireless camera system made by Tonton, currently available via <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07D76224M" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon</a>.</p>
<p>I did not want any requirement for outside network access and the linked system does not appear to require it. The router engages the cameras automatically and does share my home network, but that merely allows me to view the cameras via my phone on my local network, rather than to have to change to the camera routers network to do so.</p>
<p>The image quality is quite good and the installation was easy. Probably the most difficult aspect of installation is mounting the cameras in the desired locations.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PF4sN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PF4sN.jpg" alt="tonton camera system" /></a></p>
<p>Image courtesy Amazon link</p>
| 14825 | 2021-05-02T00:33:30.553 | |home-security|home-electronics| | <p>I am looking for a wireless "home security" type camera that has an onboard web interface I can access, instead of one that forces me to sign up for an external service - even a "free" service.</p>
<p>I started out years ago with the D-Link DCS-930 and DCS-932L wireless cameras, which allow direct wifi access, and wrote my own (very simple) website to access them remotely from my phone. Unfortunately, those cameras gradually stopped working over time, and their direct replacement, the D-Link DCS-936L, has also been discontinued.</p>
<p>I have tried more modern camera models from Wyze and D-Link, but they have removed all direct access and now demand that you pipe your camera video through their "free" sites in order to use their hardware.</p>
<p>I would rather keep direct control of the video feeds from inside my home, instead of sending them through a server at Google or Ring or D-Link or Wyze where they could be watched by - well, anybody, really.</p>
<p>Is anyone aware of a wireless camera that still has this capability?</p>
| Wireless home security camera that doesn't require a service signup? |
<p>I bought the M601 redragon mouse, and it seems to be working perfectly for its price. I get around 17-20 short dragging and 25-30 long dragging. I know you have probably bought a mouse given that you asked this 8months ago. Although I would recommend the m601.
<em>Tips for more cps:</em>
<strong>Make</strong> sure your fingers aren't wet-moist when drag clicking.
<strong>Tape</strong> could help although I managed to get 30+cps without it.
<strong>You</strong> could use the adhesive of sticky tape, dab it on the mouse buttons and it should help.
<strong>The</strong> more you use the mouse the better cps you get, for example out of the box I could just get 17long drag.
I hope this could help, I'm really late to answer your questions I just started to use this website.</p>
<p>Happy New Year!!</p>
| 14841 | 2021-05-05T16:35:22.783 | |gaming|mice| | <p>So, I am thinking of getting a better gaming mouse under 20$ which could get me good cps. This is as I would like to learn breezily, and godbridging in minecraft bedwars.</p>
<p>I have currently seen only redragon phaser m609 and m601, and I have seen some youtube tutorials on how to drag click on m601, but I am unsure that if this is my best choice. If anyone could recommend me a better mouse, it would be really helpful.</p>
<p>Also, I don't know if I can ask these type of questions here, if I can't, then please tell me where can I, and I will ask this question there.</p>
<p>I live in India, and I am okay with price range of under 2000 inr. Also, I would prefer mice present on Amazon/Flipkart.</p>
| Is the redragon m601 good for drag clicking? |
<p>Your cpu only has a limited number of pci-e lanes available. Sadly I can't find the official documentation but from different forums and other people with these issues it appears that the 3xxx series apu does not support a second PCIex16 slot.</p>
| 14860 | 2021-05-10T15:03:05.777 | |graphics-cards|motherboard|pcie| | <p>I'm facing a problem with this motherboard trying to make it work with 6 pcie GPU's for eth mining.</p>
<p>Current setup:</p>
<ul>
<li>Asus Rog Strix b450-f AMD Ryzen Pro 3 3200GE Pro (w/ radeon vega 8)</li>
<li>4gb ram</li>
<li>6 x Asrock Challenger Pro AMD Radeon 5700 XT 8gb</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm currently using RaveOS (raveos.com) as OS to mine with ethminer.</p>
<p>I was able to make it work with 5 GPU, using slots PCIEx16_1 and PCIex16_3 and PciEx1_1, PciEx1_2 and PciEx1_3, the problem comes with slot PCIex16_2, I found no way to make it work.</p>
<p>Tried several bios setup combinations with no luck. OS is not able to found any GPU on slot pciex16_2.</p>
<p>Note 1: I'm using risers on 6 GPU.</p>
<p>Note 2: Tested every GPU + riser alone and they are working, so I guess all parts are working correctly.</p>
<p>Does anybody has any experience with this?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance</p>
<p>EDIT</p>
<p>Following Bob answer, I found this on the motherboard manual:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7IhrA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7IhrA.png" alt="Asus Rog Strix b450-f Manual (Snapshot)" /></a></p>
<p>So, Ryzen 3200 + Vega does not appear to support PCIex16_2 lane...
I have to confirm this and mark appropiate answer.</p>
| Asus Rog Strix b450-f and 6 pciE GPU |
<p>You don't say what type of connector is on the other end, but my guess would be it's a 4-pin 2.5mm jack. Those are sometimes used for balanced headphone signal. The cables are not very common, but knowing what plug it is you should be able to find and order one.</p>
| 14867 | 2021-05-11T22:33:19.033 | |headphones|audio-adapters| | <p>I have a Senheiser HD 559 which comes with a cable that has an 6.3 mm jack connection. Now I wanna connect this heaphone to a normal PC with a 3.5 mm female jacket. Unfortunately every (and with every I mean high quality brands product and cheap brand product) sell 6.3mm Female Plug to 3.5 mm Male Jack Stereo Adaptor, which always have a loose contact. So I wanna buy a cable that connects my heaphone and has a direct 3.5 mm male jacket which can be connected to any device directly.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNv16.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNv16.jpg" alt="In the image you can see the cable that comes with the headset. I don't know how much mm the jacket has that goes into the headphones so I don't know what to search for." /></a></p>
| Searching for cable which links Senheiser headphone directly to computer over 3.5 mm jacket |
<p>Its a standard hard drive - what you're missing is a cable that breaks out the ZIF socket to a regular HDD. The <a href="http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c06723426.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Service manual</a> is a great starting point.</p>
<p>You're looking for a <code>Hard drive cable L22526-001</code> - and you should be able to find it easily by searching for the part number <code>L22526-001</code></p>
| 14874 | 2021-05-13T01:38:02.947 | |laptop|motherboard|hard-disk|ssd| | <p>I'm looking for a recommendation on adding storage to the laptop if I don't want to swap the current m2 drive on my laptop.</p>
<p>I have a brand new <a href="https://support.hp.com/ee-en/document/c07117943" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP 17-cn0021nr laptop</a>, and I want to upgrade the storage capacity. It has an installed m2 SSD, and I could either replace that or add another. When looking over the motherboard(image 1), I noticed there is a connector labeled "HDD", near a spot that looks like its intended for a 2.5" drive. I don't recognize this connector.</p>
<p>The motherboard has a label of "17N-8L-TGL," but I can't find specifications online for the unused port.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zS5N7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zS5N7.jpg" alt="Motherboard" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3ozI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3ozI.jpg" alt="Close-Up of connector" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wl1Gi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wl1Gi.jpg" alt="Alternate angle of Port" /></a></p>
| Pick the right HDD for an unknown connector on HP 17-cn0021nr laptop motherboard |
<p>Since I got no response on a few dozen of discussion websites (not only here), I had to do my research, and here’s the result.</p>
<p>I was able <strong>to connect an encrypted USB flash drive to my iPhone</strong> and manage files on the drive. The general appearance of the solution is shown on the picture:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/08Jw8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/08Jw8.jpg" alt="Connecting USB flash drive to iPhone" /></a></p>
<p>The effect is determined by several factors listed below.</p>
<ol>
<li><p><strong>iOS version.</strong> According to Apple, external drives in Files app <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT210393#13" rel="nofollow noreferrer">are supported since iOS 13.0</a>, and support for encrypted drives <a href="https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT211808#14" rel="nofollow noreferrer">was added in iOS 14.0</a> (see <em>Files</em> section in both sources). I’ve used iOS 14.6 on iPhone 11 Pro A2215 (MWC72RU/A).</p>
</li>
<li><p>External storage device <strong>connectivity options</strong>. I’ve tested several USB devices, and I’ve no information about other connection types (e.g., SATA or Bluetooth).</p>
</li>
<li><p>The device’s <strong>USB version</strong>. All my storage devices were USB 3.x, and I don’t know if USB 2.0 is going to work, too. I picked out the relatively old Kingston Data Traveler HyperX 3.0 (256GB) for this example.</p>
</li>
<li><p>A way to <strong>physically connect</strong> the storage device to iPhone. I’ve used <a href="https://www.apple.com/ru/shop/product/MK0W2ZM/A/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter</a>, and it seems to be the only adapter that can work in my case. The name of the adapter is quite misleading because you can use it not only with a camera, but with other external devices as well.</p>
<p>The adapter has two ports: USB 3.0/3.1 Gen 1 (for connecting an external device) and Lightning (for powering it, if necessary).</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Powering.</strong> After connecting a device, you might see the message: “This accessory requires too much power”.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxsuw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxsuw.png" alt="This accessory requires too much power" /></a></p>
<p>That means you need to connect a power source to the Lightning port but <strong>beware of the pitfall</strong>: not every power source is going to suit. For instance, a 63W Belkin adapter (WCH003vf) that I usually use to charge the iPhone didn’t work for me. But an original 20W USB-C Power Adapter with an USB-C to Lightning Cable did the trick.</p>
<p>I didn’t look more into this issue, but it’s surely not about wattage.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Organization of data</strong> on the storage device. I tested devices of the GPT partition style only, and formatted them to FAT32, exFAT and APFS (case-insensitive), with exactly one partition occupying the entire device. In all cases, the devices were accessible from iPhone just fine when unencrypted. The device is showing up in the Files app (it’s named <em>Kingston</em> in my case). <strong>Encryption</strong> works in APFS only, and iPhone prompts for a password.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/feL5T.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/feL5T.png" alt="An external storage device showing up in Files app on iPhone" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAPNd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAPNd.png" alt="iPhone prompts for a password to access an encrypted storage device" /></a></p>
<p>I think case-sensitive APFS would also work, although I haven’t checked.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Formatting a storage device to APFS with encryption can be tricky if you don’t happen to have a Mac at hand, but I was able to do with macOS in a virtual machine.</p>
| 14918 | 2021-05-28T17:38:41.323 | |data-storage|encryption| | <p><strong>In short:</strong> I’m looking for a hardware/software solution to handle an amount of data, which should be accessible from multiple devices <strong>including iPhone</strong> and protected from unauthorised access.</p>
<p><strong>In detail:</strong></p>
<p>I’ve got a file repository of some 500GB with that I want to check in from once a day to several times an hour. Most of the data is confidential, so I can’t carry it around on an unprotected USB stick.</p>
<p>I want to access the repository from any of my devices, namely two Windows 10 PCs (home and work), a Windows 10 laptop and necessarily <strong>iPhone 11 Pro</strong>. (If no iPhone were involved, then the task would be trivial.)</p>
<p>The repository must be accessible regardless of the Internet connection, so cloud storage isn’t an option. The solution should probably include a physical storage device that I can keep on hand.</p>
<p>The data must be protected with a password I need to enter exactly once per connection to a device. E.g., so that I can connect the repository to iPhone, then enter a password and gain full access to the data without re-entering the password until disconnected.</p>
<p>I also don’t want a physical combination lock, fingerprint scanner, etc. on storage device; only a regular old-school password to enter on a PC or iPhone to which the device is connected.</p>
<p>I’ve tried <a href="https://www.idiskk.com/idiskk_new/content/?132.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">an iDiskk device</a> that can work as an external drive for iPhone, but it doesn’t support password encryption.</p>
<p>There might be some kind of specialty adapter that can connect a regular external SSD to my iPhone and works with a dedicated app, but I haven’t found one.</p>
<p>So I would appreciate your suggestions.</p>
| An external iPhone-compatible storage device with password protection? |
<p>Acording to <a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Graphics-Cards/Dual/DUAL-GTX1060-O6G/techspec/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">manufacturer specifications</a>. Yes</p>
| 14920 | 2021-05-30T10:57:58.017 | |graphics-cards|multiple-monitors|4k| | <p>I have an older PC - (I7/3770K @ 3.5GHz, 32Gb DDR3) with an ASUS GeForce DUAL-GTX1060-O6G 6 GB card. I currently have 2 22" IIyama 1680x1050 monitors.</p>
<p>I'd like to upgrade my monitors to 2 x 32" 4k monitors.</p>
<p>My usage is 99% non-gaming - mostly software development, Word/Excel, and browsing. Gaming tends to be older games - Tomb Raider, Elite Dangerous.</p>
<p>My question is will my pc + card run these monitors?</p>
| Will ASUS GeForce DUAL-GTX1060-O6G 6 GB run 2 4k monitors for development? |
<p>In fact, I bought a <a href="https://en.gsm.cool/specs/samsung-galaxy-m31" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung M31</a> in the end - and am very pleased with it. As news, it would have been too expensive, but it was released the previous February, so had been around for 16 months, causing the price to drop into my range.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TxsCR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TxsCR.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<hr />
<hr />
<p>In the meantime though, UleFone have released <a href="https://www.ulefone.com/power-armor-13.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">one with a 13,200 mh battery</a>, which I would probably have bought had it been available when my last one died.</p>
| 14925 | 2021-05-31T09:43:38.810 | |android|smartphones|cheap| | <p>Only 2 things really interest me - long battery life & cost - sub £250 ~= US $ 350, Eur 290 .</p>
<p>I am replacing an old UleFone Power which had an 1100maH battery (!). I don't care that it was a brick - I loved it.</p>
<p>I use my 'phone for Email, WhatsApp, SMS and occasional 'phone calls & to browse, generally to read the news.</p>
<p>I *never* play games, stream videos, use any social networks, listen to music, etc. And I don't care too much about camera quality.</p>
<p>A reasonable amount of memory would be nice (NFC would be a bonus, but I don't expect it).</p>
<p>I have no problems with non-mainstream brands. What can you recommend?</p>
| Sub GBP £250 Android 'phone with long battery life - as of June 2021 |
<p>The main difference is that relays switch a <strong>different</strong> circuit while transistors switch the circuit that <strong>the transistor is in</strong>.</p>
| 14927 | 2021-06-01T02:28:29.463 | |switch| | <p>I heard that transistors have two main purposes, amplifying signals and switching on and off very quickly.
I also heard that relays can acts as switches. Relays rely on a magnetic force pulling the switch of another circuit on and off.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of relays and transistors, and in which cases should wae use both?</p>
| What are the pros and cons of Relays and Transistors |
<p>there are a lot different Lamps, see <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamp</a> for "Lamp (electrical component)
LED may be used as for "LED Lamps" or for the electronic part.
=> A lamp may contain a LED.
A Lamp can be light bulb, vacuumed, with a special wire, glowing if voltage attached to the light bulb. A lamp usually has a socket - and a defined operating voltage.</p>
<p>To recognize it as LED Lamp:</p>
<ol>
<li>Look - a LED lamp needs a electronic circuit to work. it is usually inside the socket, older ones have a white part between the socket and the glass, newer ones look like older light bulbs, but the "glowing wire" is a yellow or orange led wire - see <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_lamp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_lamp</a> for examples.</li>
<li>Efficiency - Wattage written on the bulb - A LED Lamp usually has a low wattage for a high Light emission e.g. 6 watts for 500lm instead of 60 watts light bulbs</li>
<li>Heat emission - LED will not heat your hand if you are near as 2 to 10 inches (one reason for their efficiency).</li>
</ol>
<p>If the wattage is not printed, you may use a energy monitor (a device as wall plug providing a socket and a display) but the heat dissipation will be much more with a glowing light bulb as with a LED.
Note: A LED also emits heat but usually not hot enough to boil a drop of water.</p>
| 14929 | 2021-06-01T04:32:59.160 | |led| | <p>What is the difference between an LED and a lamp? If they are different, how can I tell if a component is a LED or a lamp?</p>
| What is the difference between an LED and a lamp? |
<p>If you have a 6pin GPU power connector coming out of your power supply, you can do 950, but else, buy a 750ti</p>
<p>Your power supply should be strong enough to hanlde both of these cards, but the gtx 950 has an extra power connector. So if you don't have that availible, the 950 won't be compatible :((all possible gpu's for that pc don't have 6pin power, so it could be that you don't have that)</p>
| 14948 | 2021-06-04T19:32:53.330 | |graphics-cards| | <p>I'm not sure If I can buy one of these Cards for My <a href="https://support.hp.com/hr-en/document/c03382665" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Compq pro 6300 microtower</a> :
GTX 750ti or GTX 950</p>
<p>I'm not Hardware expert, But I think that there must be enough space for the card, and that the power supply should be sufficient, And I'm not sure of these 2 points.</p>
<p>N.B The computer is in its original state ( I mean no modification or addition have been done to it) So any reuired info about the model is as in its <a href="https://support.hp.com/hr-en/document/c03382665" rel="nofollow noreferrer">factory specs page</a></p>
| Can I buy GTX 750ti or GTX 950 for my HP Compq pro 6300 microtower |
<p>Consider to make a post to your local forum covering toss-away items of value. Yahoo once had Freecycle, which has morphed to <a href="https://trashnothing.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TrashNothing</a>. One is permitted to post requests. Because you don't object to using Linux (free), you can note to prospective contributors that you would be erasing the computer, removing concerns of personal information being released or accessed.</p>
<p>I suggest this because you can accomplish your goal with lower performance computers running a light version of Linux (or older, still supported version) and prevent electronic waste simultaneously.</p>
<p>I have collected a number of machines from clients, erased them, installed Linux and have given them to homeless people, people of low income, etc. You could consider to poll the local mom-and-pop computer stores for similar circumstances.</p>
| 14955 | 2021-06-08T04:18:44.777 | |laptop|processor|motherboard|displays| | <p>I'm trying to set up a sort of community service project.</p>
<p>I want to teach coding to people who otherwise wouldn't be able to learn to code because of financial constraints. I'm hoping to be able to supply computers so that I can teach people who don't have access to a computer. In order to do that, I would need to have computers that are cheap enough to get a few, but capable enough to run code.</p>
<p>Right now, I'm thinking of teaching in Processing, so basically the only thing I need to be able to do is install Windows, OS X, or Linux, and then Java, and then Processing. I am open to suggestions for other teaching strategies, but this isn't really the place for that.</p>
<p>I'm open to just having computer parts in a box along with a display and keyboard, but I don't have any experience finding cheap hardware that will be compatible and do what I want. Mainly, I want the computers to be as cheap as possible while still being able to run windows, mac, or linux. The cheaper I can get them, the more people I can help.</p>
| Cheap computers for teaching coding |
<p>This is probably not going to work.
The mini pcie card can supply a peak power of 3.3V at 1A.
From what I can find an mxm gpu always needs more power than this and unlike a normal gpu it has no external connections.</p>
| 14960 | 2021-06-08T20:45:45.863 | |graphics-cards|pcie|adapter| | <p>I have a question for the connoisseurs of PCI-e technology and graphics cards. I have an <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/81164/intel-nuc-kit-d54250wykh.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">old NUC</a> lying around in a closet. It has a specific case where there is more space than the Intel one.
Also, it has a mini PCI-e (x1) Gen2 slot.</p>
<p>I want to recycle it into a retro console and old PC games. To upgrade it a little bit, I found on the internet :</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.fr/ADT-Link-Riser-Demi-mPCIe-Gen3-0-PCI-Express/dp/B084HDF68L" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mini PCI-e (x1) to PCI-e (x1) adapters</a></li>
<li><a href="https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32952012735.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">adapters for MXM graphics card to PCI-e(x1)</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/184685889610" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MXM GPUs</a></li>
</ul>
<p>I intend to make the following assembly:</p>
<p><code> MXM GPU > MXM to PCI-e (x1) adapter > PCI-e (x1) to mini PCI-e (x1) adapter > NUC</code>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEl4v.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEl4v.png" alt="Setup" /></a></p>
<p>I understand it is uncommon, but beyond the financial or performance aspect, do you think that this assembly could be <strong>technically</strong> feasible?</p>
<p>Thanks for your kind help.</p>
| Is my PCI-e setup proposal technically possible? |
<p>In the end the problem was not in the motherboard, but in the graphics card - it would only support the maximal resolution over DVI, not HDMI, so I had to get another graphics card.</p>
| 14982 | 2021-06-15T13:47:56.557 | |graphics-cards|motherboard| | <p>My mother uses an old computer with <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/34684/intel-desktop-board-dg45id.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel DG45ID</a> motherboard. It has an internal GMA 4500 GPU which supports up to <a href="https://forums.hexus.net/graphics-cards/172370-intel-gma-4500m-list-resolutions-supported.html#post1787894" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2048*1536</a> resolution (I assume the mobile GPU is no more capable than the desktop variant). I have a 2560*1440 monitor (Dell U2717D). I connected it to the computer with an hdmi cable and the maximal resolution offered is 1920*1080 (actually 1920*1200, but that is different aspect ratio). I bought ASUS 210-SL-TC1GD3-L external graphics card. It <a href="https://www.singular.com.cy/asus-210-sl-tc1gd3-l-graphics-card-gf-210-1gb-ddr3-pcie.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">lists</a> 2560*1440 as its maximal resolution. However, when I installed it into the computer and connected the monitor, it still offers just the same 1920*1080 resolution. How come?</p>
<p>The software is Ubuntu 18.04 and I installed the proprietary Nvidia drivers, but that did not change anything.</p>
| Can motherboard limit maximal resolution with external graphics card? |
<p>Yes, but only if it's left on 5% for a long time (half a week or so)</p>
| 14991 | 2021-06-16T19:24:56.057 | |battery| | <p>My laptop has 2 batteries. The laptop uses one of them until 5% and then starts using another one. Isn't this percentage bad and harmful for first battery?</p>
<p>Details:</p>
<p>Vendor: LGC</p>
<p>Model: 45N1735</p>
<p>Technology: Lithium Ion</p>
<p>Laptop: Thinkpad t440</p>
| Best time for charging battery |
<p>This sounds like an overheating of the CPU due to a poor transfer of heat between the CPU and its cooler. I have the same issue with my Dell laptop I'd buy some thermal paste, I will link a paste that I personally use for my high-end gaming system, and you would replace the thermal paste from the cooler and cpu. You would want to make sure all of the old paste Is off the cooler and the CPU before you apply the new paste. You'd apply a large pea-sized dot in the center and then re-mount your cooler.</p>
<p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B011F7W3LU" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut Thermal Paste</a></p>
| 14992 | 2021-06-17T01:41:02.937 | |graphics-cards|motherboard| | <p>My desktop computer has been getting tend to freeze with high frequency so I've been trying to buy some new component(s).</p>
<p>I bought the computer during Jan~March 2016</p>
<p>GPU is 3~5 years.</p>
<p>Motherboard and cpu is ~6 years.</p>
<p>So I bet that I should buy a new gpu or motherboard.</p>
<p>So, as gpu inside the motherboard is not broken, there is 2 options .</p>
<p>One of which is to attach a new gpu to the motherboard.</p>
<p>The other one is to change the motherboard.</p>
<p>I know that doing both is best for solution for freeze but at this time I want to try one of them.</p>
<p>Which way is best you think?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vTx2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vTx2.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<pre><code>Version: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-6500 CPU @ 3.20GHz
Voltage: 1.1 V
External Clock: 100 MHz
Max Speed: 3600 MHz
Current Speed: 3200 MHz
Status: Populated, Enabled
Upgrade: Other
L1 Cache Handle: 0x003A
L2 Cache Handle: 0x003B
L3 Cache Handle: 0x003C
Serial Number: To Be Filled By O.E.M.
Asset Tag: To Be Filled By O.E.M.
Part Number: To Be Filled By O.E.M.
Core Count: 4
Core Enabled: 4
Thread Count: 4
Characteristics:
64-bit capable
Multi-Core
Execute Protection
Enhanced Virtualization
Power/Performance Control
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07WVSLBHG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Memory(4_GB)</a></p>
<p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B016A47K6Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">motherboard(H110M-A)</a></p>
<p>I attached the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01AZ7W88O" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">graphic card</a></p>
<p>I will report the result of it soon.</p>
<p><em><strong>After the installtion of the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01AZ7W88O" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">graphic card</a></strong></em></p>
<p>The smoothness has been seemingly bit ameliorated but not a complete solution.
The resolution of the display has been greatly improved but I don't want it. I just want a smoothness with no freeze.</p>
<p>The freeze occured from gradual less smoothness.</p>
<p>I think I may should have bought cpu rather graphic card.</p>
| Attaching a new graphic card (GPU) or Changing another component(s) of the desktop computer to resolve high frequencty of freeze |
<p>There technically is. It uses the Thunderbolt standard which runs off the USB-C cable. They are typically called eGPU's and can ship with a GPU in it, but are often just the enclosure. Below are some examples.</p>
<p>The user Salocor, who replied to the post first, also makes a good point with a NVME M.2 to PCI-E converter being an option. Due to those not intended for often removal and are fragile, they aren't exactly a solution if you want to take your laptop on the go often. A Thunderbolt 3 eGPU enclosure like those listed below are a better option if you care about portability.</p>
<ul>
<li>EDIT: I just now realized you don't have a Thunderbolt connector on your laptop, so I would look into the NVME M.2 to PCI-E connector. Due to the worldwide microchip shortage, it may be easier and cheaper to buy a gaming desktop with a GPU in it.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07D4NBPBC" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Razer eGPU Enclosure</a><br />
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08T63FV2C" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cooler Master eGPU Encosure</a><br />
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06WGRT5GS" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS ROG eGPU Enclosure</a><br />
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00PCJXN0I" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell/Alienware eGPU Enclosure</a></p>
| 14999 | 2021-06-19T20:43:12.743 | |graphics-cards|usb|gaming| | <p>Is there a USB graphics card? I know the USB 3.0 speed would be the bottleneck, of sorts, but any additional graphics would be better than nothing.</p>
<p>If there isn't, is there a PCIe female to USB male conversion card to plug a graphics card in to? I can't buy a new computer, and it needs to be USB - I don't have any PCIe slots to use.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
| Is there such a thing as a USB graphics card? |
<p>I think <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08KY684PB" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> is what you are looking for. I have a device very similar to this one and it works great. I’ve used it in the same situation as the one you described.</p>
| 15000 | 2021-06-20T04:52:38.197 | |bluetooth|speakers| | <p>I have regular, wired speakers and I use them for the computer. How can I use them wirelessly, by Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, from a smartphone or tablet?</p>
<p>I guess I need a Bluetooth device that connects to the speakers and gets power from a regular USB charger or from a powered USB hub.</p>
<p>Can anyone help me to find such a device on Amazon? I prefer something cheap, under $20 if possible.</p>
| How to use regular (cabled) speakers by wireless? |
<p>You can daisy chain headphones, or use passive splitters, like this one I found on amazon: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B088686SKJ" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088686SKJ/</a></p>
| 15011 | 2021-06-22T02:56:06.533 | |headphones|mobile-phone|music|mp3-player| | <p>I am trying to work out the easiest setup for listening to music from one device via two headphones. My friend and I like the same music but prefer headphones to earphones (which are kind of gross to share anyway) but don't like annoying other people with our music. I suppose a wired or non wired solution should be ok eg. via bluetooth pairing? We usually store all our music on our phone.</p>
<p>Sorry if this is a stupid question, I have looked online for a solution but haven't found anything yet and so thought maybe I'm looking for the wrong thing. I couldn't even find too many images of people sharing headphones so maybe we're just weird and no one does this except us?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jyyzS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jyyzS.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| What is the easiest way to share/listen to music from one device with 2 headphones? |
<p>I have a Dell U2417H that supports DP daisy chaining. You can find used monitors on eBay for ~$120. Besides supporting DP daisy changing it is a very good monitor. The picture quality is great and it even has a built in USB 3.0 hub for easy access to your USB ports.</p>
| 15033 | 2021-06-27T16:43:06.267 | |monitors|display-port| | <p>I don't need a super fancy monitor, but I would like it to support displayport daisy chaining. All the monitors I can find with this feature are >$300</p>
| $100-$200 monitor with displayport daisy chaining |
<p>I mounted <a href="https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK8GX4M2A2666C16" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this dual-memory</a> to my motherboard and the problem of freezes has not been solved.</p>
<p>So I bet the ssd is the criminal.</p>
| 15039 | 2021-06-28T00:11:42.173 | |memory|ssd|memory-card| | <p>I've replaced a motherboard and a CPU but still I've been suffered by a high frequency freeze problem.</p>
<p>Especially a freeze occurs as I use vscode. In sometime, just opened the vscode caused a freeze.</p>
<p>So the memory and the SSD are two of the remnants components which is (are) cause (s) a freeze.</p>
<p>Due to the economic problem, I can only replace memory or SSD.</p>
<p>Which should I replace (or attach a memory)?</p>
<p>The below components are mine:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Generation-Corei5-10400F-BX8070110400F-Japanese-Distribution/dp/B086MHSTWN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CPU(i5 10th generation)</a> with default cooler</li>
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07WVSLBHG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Memory(4_GB)</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/introduction.php?S_ID=1008" rel="nofollow noreferrer">motherboard</a></li>
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01AZ7W88O" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">graphic card</a> ( I newly attached it to the computer.)</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Palit-UVS10AT-SSD120-120-GB-Internal/dp/B072MRMF37" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SSD</a></li>
</ul>
<p>The minimum temperature of the CPU is around 32 celsius</p>
<p>What I got typed:</p>
<pre><code>sudo hwinfo --short
</code></pre>
<p>Results in this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0qDTL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0qDTL.png" alt="hwinfo output" /></a></p>
| SSD or memory, which should I replace to resolve a freeze problem? |
<p>Short answer: No</p>
<p>Longer answer, maybe</p>
<p>With only a 3080, your system would draw around 550W. Add 200W for the 3060ti, and you get 750W. If RTX 3000 series would not have mega power draw spikes and nothing is OCed, 750W is just enough for you. Because RTX 3000 series have mega power draw spikes, I would reccomend going at least 200W above that (+-1000W).</p>
<p>Also, to stay under that 1000W mark, try undervolting your graphics cards a bit in MSI Afterburner. It should not impact performance, it can even improve performance and it reduces power usage.</p>
<p>For power supply brands, I would reccomend Corsair and Seasonic.</p>
| 15048 | 2021-06-30T19:38:30.057 | |graphics-cards|power-supply| | <p>I want to mine some altcoins via NiceHash with two graphics cards 24/7 or at least in the evening and night. I was wondering if my PSU is good enough for my setup since I want to buy an extra graphics card. My PC setup:</p>
<p>CORSAIR RMx Series RM750x - 2018 Edition</p>
<p>MSI Z490-A PRO Motherboard</p>
<p>NZXT Kraken X63 RGB Liquid coolingsystem</p>
<p>Adata XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB SSD</p>
<p>Intel Core i7 10700K</p>
<p>G.Skill Ripjaws V F4-3200C14D-32GVK</p>
<p>Asus ROG Strix GeForce RTX 3080</p>
<p>GeForce RTX 3060 TI</p>
<p>Can my 750W PSU start and sustain this setup or not?</p>
| Which PSU do I need for this setup? |
<p>Considering it's being run on a Ryzen processor I would reccomend using the 3600mhz kit.
Amd has a thing called Infinity Fabric. You usually want to have this running at a 1:1 ratio of the Ram Base clock. But it's also responsible for some communication within the cpu itself.</p>
<p>By using higher base clock RAM, the Infinity Fabric speeds increase. Causing an overal performance increase of the CPU itself.</p>
| 15050 | 2021-06-30T22:33:09.393 | |pc|memory|desktop| | <p>I'm looking to upgrade someone's gaming PC and was wondering if I will notice any difference between these two RAM modules on a Ryzen 5000 CPU. I'd get 4 8GB sticks so the capacity will be the same and both sticks will be from Corsair. I know to some extent timings matter, how tight they are and clock speed matters, but not sure what is more important, timings, latency, or clock speed.</p>
<p>Kit A - 3200mhz CL16, 16-18-18-36 @ 1.35v<br />
Kit B - 3600mhz CL18, 18-19-19-39 @ 1.35v</p>
| Will these RAM kits perform differently from eachother? |
<p>There are many inexpensive "webcams", such as <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07ZKBQN97" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this for ~US$20</a>. Perhaps your university can provide one from stock. Set it up so that it photographs the size of the paper laid out on the desk, and outline, using tape, the area to place a page.</p>
<p>An alternative is to use a scanner, such as those built into many printers.</p>
| 15064 | 2021-07-03T09:38:42.877 | |camera| | <p>My univ require me to take photos of papers of answers of exam and send it via internet and mail papers via post office to the univ to be cheched whether any correction wasn't done or not.</p>
<p>I need the camera which can take a moderate resolution(no blur) photos of answers of exam.</p>
<p>I don't intend to use it to take a scenery.</p>
<p>I just want a cheap camera(I guess it is able to be connected with usb) which can take a photo with no blur of written texts.</p>
<p>Can you tell me your recommendations?</p>
| Which gadget is suitable for just taking a photo of answers of exam with pc?(The laptop-embedded camera is bad for it) |
<p>You can, but if you don't use 90+% of your ram, it should not impact performance. You should buy a 16GB stick (or a 1*16GB kit) with a 2667Mhz speed. To make it fit in the socket, use DDR4 SODIMM. To ensure the best compatibility, try buying the same stick that is already in your laptop (google Kingston ACR26D4S9D8ME-16). To install the ram stick, you can use the instructions given by @MANAV of see if the laptop manufacturer has a video explaining how you can upgrade the ram. If your laptop allows to, also enable XMP or DOCP to get a little extra performance</p>
| 15078 | 2021-07-06T17:48:32.617 | |laptop|memory| | <p>On my laptop I have 16 GB of RAM. I see that it supports up to 32 GB and I have to increase it.</p>
<p>The technical details of the RAM already present is as follows:</p>
<pre><code>$ sudo dmidecode --type memory
# dmidecode 3.2
Getting SMBIOS data from sysfs.
SMBIOS 3.0.1 present.
Handle 0x000E, DMI type 16, 23 bytes
Physical Memory Array
Location: System Board Or Motherboard
Use: System Memory
Error Correction Type: None
Maximum Capacity: 32 GB
Error Information Handle: No Error
Number Of Devices: 2
Handle 0x000F, DMI type 17, 40 bytes
Memory Device
Array Handle: 0x000E
Error Information Handle: No Error
Total Width: 64 bits
Data Width: 64 bits
Size: 16 GB
Form Factor: SODIMM
Set: None
Locator: ChannelA-DIMM0
Bank Locator: BANK 0
Type: DDR4
Type Detail: Synchronous
Speed: 2667 MT/s
Manufacturer: Kingston
Serial Number: 2D178A3E
Asset Tag: 9876543210
Part Number: ACR26D4S9D8ME-16
Rank: 2
Configured Memory Speed: 2667 MT/s
Minimum Voltage: 1.25 V
Maximum Voltage: 1.35 V
Configured Voltage: 1.2 V
Handle 0x0010, DMI type 17, 40 bytes
Memory Device
Array Handle: 0x000E
Error Information Handle: No Error
Total Width: Unknown
Data Width: Unknown
Size: No Module Installed
Form Factor: Unknown
Set: None
Locator: ChannelB-DIMM0
Bank Locator: BANK 2
Type: Unknown
Type Detail: None
Speed: Unknown
Manufacturer: Not Specified
Serial Number: Not Specified
Asset Tag: Not Specified
Part Number: Not Specified
Rank: Unknown
Configured Memory Speed: Unknown
Minimum Voltage: Unknown
Maximum Voltage: Unknown
Configured Voltage: Unknown
</code></pre>
<p>I was thinking to buy a RAM module from Amazon and mount it myself on my laptop.</p>
<p>Can I do it?</p>
<p>Which module do I have to buy?</p>
<p>I need to increase my RAM to the maximum possible level.</p>
<p>Please specify which commands do I need to run and report if you need more technical details about my laptop.</p>
| Which RAM to buy? |
<p>I think you've misunderstood what people mean.
The refresh rate of your monitor has no impact on gaming performance. It only decides how often your monitor can show a new frame every second.
What can impact performance is monitor resolution. However you can always choose to render a game at a lower resolution and let it upscale. Or use Nvidia DLSS if availible.</p>
<p>You also do not need a G-sync capable monitor for this, especially considering that with a G-sync monitor the monitor refresh rate is dynamically ajusted to the framerate of your game. Basically already dynamically doing what you are asking. If you then limit the maximum refresh rate. you're only denying yourself extra visible frames if they are availible.</p>
<p>However if you really wish to reduce the refresh rate of your monitor for other reasons you can do this by right clicking on the desktop and selecting display, then scroll down and click 'advanced display settings' there is a drop down to edit the refresh rate.</p>
| 15084 | 2021-07-08T05:14:30.563 | |monitors| | <p>I have an entry-level gaming laptop with an NVIDIA GeForce GPU and I like to cap the few games that I play on it to 60 fps. Would an expensive gaming monitor that can handle refresh rates well beyond 60 Hz be (1) a waste of money and (2) problematic? I've read that using an overpowered monitor on a relatively underpowered GPU may cause performance issues. However, can't I just buy a G-SYNC capable monitor and have the NVIDIA GPU bring the monitor's refresh rate down to 60 Hz when I play games?</p>
| Would a G-SYNC monitor prevent performance issues for underpowered GPUs? |
<p>Regarding your <strong>LIDE 400</strong> and <strong>Canoscan LIDE 400</strong>.
They are probably the same, but have different names since the seller forgot to type the full name and omitted "Canoscan" from "LIDE 400".</p>
<p>I would go with Canon since they also make cameras and that expertise might go into their scanners. They probably both perform the same if they are the same price since scanners are a commodity item and are not obscuring their quality with luxury pricing.</p>
| 15102 | 2021-07-17T17:33:57.950 | |scanner| | <p>I've shortlisted 3 entry level scanners of my budget.</p>
<ol>
<li>Epson Perfection V39</li>
<li>Canon LIDE 400</li>
<li>Canon Canoscan LIDE 400</li>
</ol>
<p>I'm not really sure if <strong>LIDE 400</strong> and <strong>Canoscan LIDE 400</strong> are same or different, but I couldn't find any difference other than dimensions and a sticker printed on one of them.</p>
<p>Canon India refused to tell if both are same and different. They were saying both are same. Only one of them is listed on Canon India website (i.e., <strong>Canon LIDE 400</strong>) They said contact Amazon. Amazon told me that both have different sellers and seller is sending under different name. But the <strong>MRP</strong> price difference of <strong>Canoscan</strong> is almost double on Amazon.</p>
<p>But anyway, I did my research and I couldn't find single difference between them. Because I was able to find <strong>Canoscan</strong> on Canon UK website and its specifications were same. <strong>So I am assuming they are same just sold under different names.</strong> I don't have proof though.</p>
<p>Now, all 3 have almost similar specifications. Same sensor, same DPI and same document size.</p>
<p>I didn't go into extreme details but I compared basic details which I should know and which I understand.</p>
<p>Now I can't make a decision. The thing is, on Amazon India, Epson V39 has better reviews. Canon LIDE 400 has a bit less good reviews. However, like I had said, Canoscan LIDE 400 is also listed on Amazon India, which has better reviews.</p>
<p>So overall, I feel people are doubtful about <strong>Canon LIDE 400</strong> or <strong>Canoscan LIDE 400</strong>.</p>
<p>Which makes me feel V39 is better. I read many articles/videos online, which also listed LIDE 400 slightly better than V39.</p>
<hr />
<p>What I would scan is mostly A4 size pencil drawings on Bristol paper. Or A5 paper. Sometimes A3 paper (I know A3 is not supported but I would use multiple scans and later combine them). So main focus is A4 drawings. On rare occasions, colored photos and maybe paintings.</p>
<p>So is there any other criteria which I can use whether to go with Epson or Canon?</p>
| Which brand should I go with if I want to scan my artworks? |
<p>If you're currently using the Samsung modules, that means your laptop uses DDR4.
The DDR3 modules you've been gifted will neither work nor physically fit.</p>
<p>Sell (or return) the Kingston DDR3 modules and get some extra DDR4 modules <em>if</em> you have RAM slots left unused in your laptop.
If you only have two RAM slots, you'd want to get 2x16 GB modules, preferably at 3200 MHz too, like the M471A2K43DB1-CWE.</p>
| 15117 | 2021-07-24T15:41:22.400 | |laptop|memory| | <p>I have an <strong>HP OMEN 15-en0003ns</strong> laptop with 16GB RAM I use for editing video. It came with <strong>2 Samsung M471A1K43DB1-CWE 8GB SODIMM DDR4 3200MHz</strong> memories. I've recently been gifted <strong>2 Kingston FURY Impact KF318LS11IBK2 8GB SODIMM DDR3 1866MHz</strong> memories for my birthday. Now, right off the bat I would think it's obvious that going from 3200MHz to 1866MHz would be a step down BUT checking the price for both memories I see the Samsung ones are a lot cheaper than the Kingston Fury ones... So is that just a brand thing or are the Kingston Furys better in any other meaningful way?</p>
<p>Should I change my Samsung memories for the Kingston Furys or am I better off with the Samsung ones and I should sell the Furys and buy something else?</p>
<p>Other specs of my Omen:</p>
<ul>
<li>AMD Ryzen 7 4800H</li>
<li>Nvidia GTX 1650-Ti</li>
</ul>
| Which RAM is better for video-editing: Samsung M471A1K43DB1-CWE 3200MHz (8GBx2) or Kingston FURY Impact KF318LS11IBK2 1866MHz (8GBx2) |
<p>The laptop supports up to 32gb of ram in the two slots it has.
To see whether you can add or have to replace. Check task manager. Under memory there is a used slots indication.</p>
<p>it seems to have one 2.5inch sata slot and one pci-e m.2 slot availible in total.
that seems to be all the space you have.</p>
| 15120 | 2021-07-26T03:26:03.333 | |memory|ssd| | <p>I am using Lenovo y520. now everything is fine. but I want to increase the ram and ssd to 1TB. I am not sure about the spec of this laptop eg. the extra slots for SSD and the exact spec for the ram.</p>
<p>is it possible to increase them without removing the existing one ?
PS: I tried to reach support within the period of warranty but they did not respond well.now it is not within the warranty period. it comes with one SSD and RAM so i just want to add more budget doesn't matter. but hardware must support the system environment.</p>
<pre><code> Device name some device name
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-7300HQ CPU @ 2.50GHz 2.50 GHz
Installed RAM 8.00 GB (7.86 GB usable)
Device ID some device id
Product ID some product id
System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor
Pen and touch No pen or touch input is available for this display
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IKfKO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IKfKO.jpg" alt="storage controller" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1uJB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1uJB.jpg" alt="storage disk drive" /></a>
thx
sayantan</p>
| lenovo y520 ram and ssd upgrade |
<p>With SSDs, assuming all else is equal - same speed, size etc, then there is no speed advantage in having two separate drives.</p>
<p>Instead you have an element of redundancy. If one fails, you still have the other - less 'eggs in one basket' syndrome.</p>
<p>As both OSes are not going to ever be running simultaneously, I'd see this as the only real advantage. [you could belt & braces further by having recovery for each on the other drive], though you would presumably have both backed up externally anyway.</p>
<p>SSDs don't care 'where' data is on a drive - they don't map partitions to actual physical locations like an old spinny rust HD - so unless you're running them too full [over 80% consistently] then I don't see wear being a decider either way.</p>
| 15146 | 2021-07-31T14:18:08.033 | |ssd|performance| | <p>I just purchased a new motherboard with two M.2 slots and am trying to decide whether to get two separate 1TB SSDs or one 2TB drive. I'm looking at the Samsung 980 Pro, which is currently listed at $200 for the 1TB model vs.just over $400 for the 2TB. (Pretty much the same price either way).</p>
<p>The obvious advantage of the one chip solution is that I'll have a spare slot available for a future upgrade but I'm wondering if having separate Linux and Windows partitions on the same drive would hurt the performance. I do a lot of data processing on fairly large datasets so anything I can do to maximize input/output speeds is a big help.</p>
<p>In case anyone's curious, my other components are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Asus ROG Strix X570-E motherboard</li>
<li>AMD Ryzen 9 5900X</li>
<li>G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 4x16GB</li>
</ul>
| Dual boot system--Better to have 1x 2TB with separate partitions or 2x 1TB SSD? |
<p>If you are OK with using a lower powered computer like a raspberry pi, then I say go for it! A raspberry pi can run off the same battery bank your phone, just make sure the power bank has a 3.0V output, such as <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07P5ZP943" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>. (source: <a href="https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/114239/pi-4-maximum-power-consumption#114245">https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/114239/pi-4-maximum-power-consumption#114245</a>).</p>
<p>Another idea: if you have a Samsung Galaxy S8, Note 8 or newer, (a quick way to check is to see if you have a USB type C charging port. If you do, your Galaxy is compatible) you can use <a href="https://www.samsung.com/us/explore/dex/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung Dex</a>. This uses a USB C to HDMI adapter (such as <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07THJGZ9Z" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>) to output an HDMI signal to a monitor and uses your phone as the trackpad/keyboard. You can also use Bluetooth peripherals with Dex.</p>
| 15150 | 2021-08-02T00:39:40.213 | |laptop|power-supply|raspberry-pi|portable| | <p>With the end of working in offices. I tend to work in coffee shops and I have a tablet that I bring as a second screen.</p>
<p>One thing that this working situation changes is that I carry my work laptop around. I kind of want to avoid being "at work all of the time" so it might be nice using a computer that isn't my work laptop but that starts to mean carrying around a lot of stuff.</p>
<p>One idea that came to mind is that maybe I could use something like a raspberry pi and use my tablets as a monitor (like I already do to get a second desktop monitor). There are quite a few "mini computers" - but after considering this for a second (and looking at some hardware) I realized that a lot of these mini computers didn't come with a monitor.</p>
<p>So this made me think - is there a compact way to use a raspberry pi without a power supply. Are there other computers with a similar form factor? Could I use an external usb battery like I can for my phone? Is this all a silly idea?</p>
| "Laptop" without a screen. I.e. a lightweight PC with a battery |
<p>The most popular laptop on hardware.info meets all your requirements, except screen size. Its the <a href="https://nl.hardware.info/laptops.18/lenovo-ideapad-3-82ku00ckmh.602904" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo IdeaPad 3 (82KU00CKMH)</a> (link is in dutch)</p>
<p>Multitasking: You need enough cpu cores for this, and a ryzen 7 just has that. You also need 16GB of RAM, and this laptop also has that</p>
<p>Storage: The NVMe SSD (fast ssd) is 512 GB</p>
<p>Simple gaming and video editing: That CPU can handle it at once if needed :) and the Vega 8 is good enough for Minecraft at 60FPS.</p>
<p>Budget: Currently for sale for 650 euro's, which is about 750$ US</p>
<p>Brand: Sorry, ASUS didn't have much in the 10 most popular laptops...</p>
<p>Portability, probably better than my laptop, which is pretty portable</p>
<p>Screen size: a little over 15 inch</p>
<p>Battery life: In the hardest HWI test, it lasted 217 minutes, which is about 3 and a half hours</p>
<p>OS: Windows comes preinstalled, but if you don't like windows, you can use a different one (POP OS is my favorite)</p>
| 15182 | 2021-08-13T02:06:13.003 | |laptop|ssd| | <p>I am planning to buy new laptop. Need some suggestions from you guys.</p>
<p>Here is some details:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Can be used for multi - tasking (open several words file, excel, pdf, google meet at same time) without lagging</p>
</li>
<li><p>use SSD with capacity 256 GB or more</p>
</li>
<li><p>I plan to use video editing software like camtasia and playing game like Minecraft</p>
</li>
<li><p>Budget: if possible, around $700. If not, around $1000</p>
</li>
<li><p>My preference is towards ASUS but I am willing to consider other brands</p>
</li>
<li><p>Most of the time I will use it at workplace so portable laptop is not really my top priority (but I am open to that option as long it meets criteria 1 to 4)</p>
</li>
<li><p>Screen size maybe around 14 - 15 inch</p>
</li>
<li><p>Since I don't really need to travel a lot, for battery life maybe only need a decent one, around 2 - 4 hours</p>
</li>
<li><p>OS: windows</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Other information (not sure it is helpful): I am using ASUS Vivobook A442U right now</p>
<p>Thank you guys</p>
| Need a suggestion for buying new laptop |
<p>Yes, it could mean that unless the increased processing causes other resource contentions.</p>
<p>For example if you run out of RAM your speed will drop.</p>
<p>If it accesses the hard drive a lot, and you only have a standard motorized hard drive instead of an SSD or NVMe you <em>could</em> easily have a bottleneck here.</p>
<p>If it downloads data from the network or internet that could become a new bottleneck.</p>
| 15191 | 2021-08-16T13:41:03.483 | |processor| | <p>Does twice the cpu benchmark score mean it can get a job twice as fast?
Let’s say I bought a cpu that has twice the single thread performance score of what I used to have. Does this mean it can complete a job twice as fast? Assume the program I’m using is not multi threaded. By single thread performance score I mean numbers on websites like this <a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.cpubenchmark.net/singleThread.html</a></p>
| Does twice the cpu benchmark score mean it can get a job twice as fast? |
<p>RAM is a big issue with multiple apps open, and ARM is very competative with x86 (see Apple M1), so if you see high RAM usage while using teams, try upgrading RAM.</p>
| 15197 | 2021-08-17T08:44:00.217 | |memory|multiple-monitors|processor-architecture| | <p>I have 2 USB-C monitors where the computer powers and provide data transfer to both. I use a lot of progressive web apps as part of my day to day. MS Teams as one, is a major resource hog and without two monitors is ok, but with all the web apps open, Teams and the two monitors, I am noticing it all slow down.</p>
<p>Question is can ARM architecture run this kind of setup with more RAM or do I actually need a better processor?</p>
| Minimum requirements to power 2 USB-C monitiors on ARM architecture |
<p>I know it's an old question but I have found the Gulikit controller, it has magnetic sticks (no stick drift), has support for Switch (on Switch mode), Windows (on Xbox mode) and Linux (also Xbox mode although Switch mode is also supported on Linux). It also has analog sticks and triggers on both sides, Switch layout and a pretty long battery life. It can also be used wired in Switch mode and has turbo functionality</p>
| 15215 | 2021-08-21T08:59:29.723 | |gaming|linux|windows|video-game-console| | <p>I have a Nintendo switch to play Mario Kart, but I also use the controllers to play Dirt Rally on my laptop/desktop. Since my brother also plays Mario Kart, I want to have a second controller so he doesn't ask me for the controllers while I'm playing Dirt Rally. But since I want to also play on my Linux desktop, I don't want an extra pair of Joy-cons, because those are hard to pair with Linux. I also want an analog stick, so I can steer better in Dirt Rally. Analog triggers are nice, but not neccesary.</p>
<p>Update: I found that Steam remote play is also a thing, but thats also tricky to use because Steam crashes, so thats also not a good option.</p>
<p>Update: I removed Linux, because Steam and Wine bugged so hard I could not play Dirt Rally</p>
| Which game controller is usable on Windows and Nintendo Switch without extra acessories? |
<p>My recommendation would be a full external soundcard that has line-in support, that is not super big.</p>
<p>The best I can do that actually does have a line-in and is more or less plug-and-play is this:</p>
<p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07BGS2BS1" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71C7eaA9E1L._AC_SL1500_.jpg" alt="image" /></a>
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07BGS2BS1" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-External-Recording-Compatible/dp/B07BGS2BS1/ref=sr_1_35?dchild=1&keywords=usb+sound+card+line+in&qid=1629833572&sr=8-35</a></p>
| 15226 | 2021-08-24T09:22:29.983 | |usb| | <p>I would like to have a solution to equip an average Windows 7 / 10 laptop with line-in input (stereo, 250-500 mV). All the USB sticks I found at Amazon have only the microphone input (2-5 mV).</p>
<p>A microphone input has another voltage level, is a mono input, the signal goes through preamplifier with the curve suitable for microphones.</p>
<p>I need a normal stereo line input with voltage level ten times higher than for microphone and without the preamplifier.</p>
<p>Formerly there were very cheap ($10...$25) ISA/PCI/PCIe/PCMCIA/ExpressCard card devices with line in and a good quality. Nowadays laptops do not have any of these connectors inputs except USB. Even ExpressCard seems to be retired.</p>
<p>Do you know some solutions except buying a super huge professional external sound card of suitcase size for $250 ?</p>
| Stereo line input for a laptop |
<p>In order to truly protect against drive failure your should invest in a RAID 6, unfortunately it needs a minimum of 4 drives and a controller card so it going to get expensive.</p>
<p>If you need to protect against data corruption, then you need a backup system to another drive and/or cloud backup.</p>
| 15245 | 2021-08-29T14:56:27.810 | |hard-disk|ssd| | <p>I'm stuck in a dilemma.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>To buy an external HDD for back up and use existing HDD for my desktop or</p>
</li>
<li><p>Buy SSD and use it as a primary while using the existing HDD(connected to the PC) as a backup for data?</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>I'm using an AMD fx processor with 6 cores and existing HDD is 500Gb.
my work involves running programs with lots of computations per second.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a solution which is more reliable in keeping my backup data safe.</p>
| SSD and HDD: Failure probabilities |
<p>You could use a GoPro as webcam! :)</p>
<p>Currently, GoPro Webcam mode is supported on:
• HERO9 Black
• HERO8 Black
• HERO7 Black
• HERO6 Black
• HERO5 Black
• HERO4 Black
Source: <a href="https://gopro.com/en/us/news/how-to-use-gopro-for-webcam" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://gopro.com/en/us/news/how-to-use-gopro-for-webcam</a></p>
<p>Or you could use a 3D printed structure to be able to use basically any webcam with the mounts.</p>
| 15248 | 2021-08-30T16:42:58.327 | |webcam| | <p>I have a bunch of GoPro (J-Hook Buckle) mounts and was wondering if there's a webcam that could reuse these mounts.</p>
<p>A lot of webcams have fixtures that'll allow you to rest the webcam on your monitor. Some of small tripods but I like the versatility that GoPro's offer and would like a webcam with the same level of versatility.</p>
<p>Any ideas?</p>
| web cam with gopro mount? |
<p>I would highly advice not using pre-built models from big brands.</p>
<p>Usually the upgradability is either limited by the UEFI/BIOS or by the Power Supply (non standard, with low wattage).</p>
<p>Go for AMD Ryzen CPU's based machines from custom assemblers (check reviews on Internet) which offer the best bang for buck currently. 3XXX compatible (2020 cpu's) motherboards are usually 5XXX (2021 CPUs) because they are shipped with the last BIOS version.</p>
<p>Edit: after comment :
I'll recommend going for a 6XXX Intel platform for two reasons :</p>
<ul>
<li>Support for faster RAM that may help with daily usage.</li>
<li>Lower power consumption and upgradability to i7 6700 CPU's (vs 4790 already maxed out CPU configuration).
ps: K cpu's most likely wont work (or will be equivalent to their non-K counterparts due to lack of OC), in such low power business machines.</li>
</ul>
| 15249 | 2021-08-30T22:55:49.777 | |processor|pc| | <p>I'm looking for a temporary & budget PC for software development (JS with VS Code).</p>
<p>I found attractive and comparable in terms of price used PC models with i7-4790 (HP 800 G1 SFF) and i5-6500 (HP 800 G2 DESKTOP). Both of them seem to meet my requirements.</p>
<p>i7-4790 has higher clock speed (3.6-4.0 GHz vs 3.2-3.6 GHz), more threads (8 vs 4), more cache (8MB vs 6MB) than i5-6500. The only parameter it seems to be worse in is supported RAM which is DDR3 vs DDR4 of i5-6500. But this seems od little importance for my use case. Also in various benchmarks i7-4790 seems to visibly surpass i5-6500, eg, but not only:
<a href="https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-4790-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6500/2293vs3513" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-Core-i7-4790-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6500/2293vs3513</a></p>
<p>The upgradebility seems to be not a factor, because the motherboard for 4790 will not support 4790k and the one for 6500 will only support i7-6700 which seems to be on par with 4790 in benchmarks while being more expensive. </p>
<p>I'm inclined to buy i7-4790. Is there any reason why all the above factors might be misleading and it would be better to choose i5-6500 after all?</p>
| i7-4790 vs i5-6500 for JavaScript development |
<p>You don't have to install an external display to rescue your ssd. You can in most cases take the ssd out of your computer and install it in a different pc. If you still want to connect a different display, you can use this adaptor: <a href="https://www.amazon.nl/DEKNEI-Ethernet-TF-kaartlezer-compatibel-C-apparaten/dp/B08RHJF6GY/ref=asc_df_B08RHJF6GY/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.nl/DEKNEI-Ethernet-TF-kaartlezer-compatibel-C-apparaten/dp/B08RHJF6GY/ref=asc_df_B08RHJF6GY/</a></p>
| 15264 | 2021-09-02T16:08:11.180 | |usb|hdmi|windows| | <p>I want to save my SSD of my <strong>Asus Zenbook UX390UAK</strong> but my Display does not work anymore. Is there a <strong>DisplayUSB-Adapter</strong> without need of 3rd-party Driver and works <strong>Plug&Play with WIN 10</strong>. If this could be done, I can save the internal SSD on an external HDD by using Acronis True Image. Thanks for any
helpful advices.</p>
| Display broken - what kind of USB-VGA/HDMI DisplayAdapter works with WIN 10 on Asus ZenBOOK UX390UAK |
<p>Unless a device has the capability to sample audio 2.8 million times a second (5.6 for "Hi def" version), Then No.</p>
<p>This requires a pretty specialized chip and/Including an extremely accurate Clock and ADC voltage/PSU to have a noticable advantage over common methods. Wikipedia "Direct Stream Digital" has a link to NativeDSD Database (by nativedsd.com), but it's play orientated, not record. I only looked at the Sony entries (since they championed the format) and no phones there. I'm sure a phone app could produce a DSD file, but it would be converted PCM for sure.</p>
| 15282 | 2021-09-03T18:04:49.493 | |audio-recording| | <p>Is it possible to record audio by a smartphone in DSD format i.e. PDM technology?</p>
<p>I guess the smartphone hardware should be able to transduce analogue sound waves into a digital bitstream in DSD format.</p>
<p>Are there any smartphones with such capability available to purchase?</p>
| Recording audio by smartphone in DSD format i.e. PDM technology |
<p>Everything seems fine but I would suggest you to go for an AMD CPU instead of the intel one.</p>
<p>AMD competes toe to toe with intel in most games and surpasses intel in a lot of games as well. Also AMD is better oriented for a professional workflow like rendering etc. The 5800x even has a lower TDP than the intel 11700k.
Also make sure that the cooling is sufficient, you would probably need an AIO for the same if not a good dual tower air cooler like the Noctua NH D15 or bequiet Dark Rock Pro.</p>
<p>If you are absolutely going with intel then I don't find much merit in getting the 11th gen over 10th gen for games. But in cases of workflows like rendering etc 11th gen would give a bit of an advantage. KF is a better choice if you have a GPU available at hand, but if you dont then you wont be able to run your PC until you get a GPU.</p>
<p>Also I am not saying this as an AMD fanboy I already have the 10700k, but the heat this processor gives out is insane.</p>
| 15312 | 2021-09-19T00:32:54.810 | |processor|gaming|desktop| | <p>I've started making a list for a new build I'm doing, since my current desktop is starting to get some problems. But getting to the CPU, I'm really split about the choice of CPU. I've decided that I'm most likely gonna go with an Intel core I7, but I can't decide if I should go with the 10th or 11th gen, and I also can't decide if I should go with the K or KF model. As far as I understand the only diffrence between K and KF is that K has integrated Graphics and KF doesn't, but then KF is slightly cheaper.</p>
<p>Is it just a waste of money to buy K instead of KF since the build will include a GPU? And is the difference between 10th and 11th gen, enough to make up the difference in price?</p>
<p>The choices are between:</p>
<ul>
<li>Intel core I7-11700K</li>
<li>Intel core I7-11700KF</li>
<li>Intel core I7-10700K</li>
<li>Intel core I7-10700KF</li>
</ul>
<p>For context, the rest of the build looks something like this:</p>
<ul>
<li>MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus</li>
<li>Asus GeForce RTX 3080 TI TUF OC</li>
<li>Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3600 C18 2x16GB</li>
<li>Samsung 980 PRO SSD 1TB</li>
<li>(A 1000Watt power supply, atleast 80+ gold certified)</li>
</ul>
<p>I mostly use my desktop for gaming, but from time to time, I also do some video editing and rendering, 3D modeling, some programming, and VR gaming.</p>
<p>I have all these parts available at my local shop so that isn't a problem, but would also love to hear peoples suggestions. All input is greatly appreciated, I'd love to learn something new, Thx</p>
| New desktop build, Which I7 CPU to choose |
<blockquote>
<p>could my the graphic card (NVIDIA GTX 570) be the limiting factor in the refresh rate?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>It is absolutely this.</p>
<p>The GTX 570 is too old to have a DisplayPort that can handle 3840x2160 at 60hz.</p>
<p>Update your GPU, the CPU can survive a while longer.</p>
<p>You can easily tell if your CPU is the limiting factor by looking at the CPU usage in Task Manager. If the whole CPU or a single core is at 100% while performing a task, a faster CPU would do better. If not, then more information is needed to determine what is slowing things down.</p>
| 15316 | 2021-09-20T08:36:50.557 | |graphics-cards|processor|motherboard|performance|nvidia| | <p>EDITED:</p>
<p>I recently upgraded the screen of my computer, which was an HP 2229h from about 10 years ago, to a much more recent and better screen: an AOC U32E2N (<a href="https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/monitors/u32e2n" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://eu.aoc.com/en/products/monitors/u32e2n</a>).</p>
<p>This new monitor can operate at a much higher resolution. However, I have noticed that the monitor refresh rate (connected with DisplayPort) is at 29Hz instead of the 60Hz that were set with the old monitor.</p>
<p>This monitor can handle 60Hz so the monitor is not the problem. The cable can too, I bought it on purpose. Hence, I have two questions:</p>
<ol>
<li>could my the graphic card (NVIDIA GTX 570) be the limiting factor in the refresh rate?</li>
<li>if not, would it be the CPU or the motherboard?</li>
</ol>
<p>I have a quite old motherboard and a quite old graphic card. Both, however, did the job quite well until yesterday. I am not a heavy gamer anymore so I don't need an ultracapable hardware graphics-wise. I make music on my PC though and that requires a lot of CPU.</p>
<p>Which one would you update first, why, and with what if have any suggestions?</p>
<p>Here are my specs:</p>
<p><strong>Graphics card:</strong> NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570</p>
<p><strong>Screen resolution:</strong> 3840 x 2160</p>
<p><strong>Motherboard :</strong> ASUS P8H67</p>
<p><strong>Processor:</strong> Intel i5-2550K, 4 x 3.40GHz</p>
<p><strong>RAM :</strong> 8 GB DDR3</p>
<p><strong>Operating system :</strong> Windows 10 (x64)</p>
<p>According to <a href="https://www.pc-specs.com/mobo/Asus/Asus_P8H67/938" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PC-specs</a>: <em>"Released on 29 Dec 2010, the Asus P8H67 is now over 10 years old, which means it is extremely out of date and is based on very aged technologies."</em></p>
<p>Also my graphic card turned 10 this year. Hence, I would like to know which one in your expertise is the main culprit of slowing everything down with the resolution increase. I suspect the motherboard, but I'm no IT engineer.</p>
<p>Also, before someone brings it up: yes, I am going to expand that RAM to 16GB of a newer kind than DDR3 :)</p>
| Screen change made half of my hardware obsolete: what to upgrade first? |
<p>That device won't work on 3.5" HDD drives because USB-A doesn't have the 12v rail those drives need.<br />
USB-C has various ways of delivering higher power, but not USB-A.</p>
<p>The solution is an external power supply or something with USB-C with a PD specification.</p>
| 15331 | 2021-09-24T19:52:26.270 | |usb|hard-disk|power-supply|sata|power| | <p>I have bought <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33019962132.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.25247ee1HCXL6P&algo_pvid=d512905c-5961-4975-824e-427518e0501f&algo_exp_id=d512905c-5961-4975-824e-427518e0501f-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2267143107414%22%7D" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this cable</a> in order to use a separate USB adapter to power my desktop hard disk (3,5")</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/764hU.png" alt="USB to SATA" /></p>
<p>At one end is a normal USB male connector, and on the other end is an adapted 15-pin plug. These are the connected pins, I believe. Which I think they are correct pinned</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9eVn.png" alt="SATA pinout" /></p>
<p>Should I connect anything else to turn the hard disk on? Or should this be enough? Am I doing anything wrong?</p>
<p>There are many cables like the one in the image below, but what I want is to manage the data cable be independent from the power cable. Is that possible? I was looking for a cable 7-pin SATA male to USB male but I couldn't find any. I want to connect the disk to a Raspberry and use a different power adapter to make it work.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VnuDE.png" alt="data and power cable together" /></p>
<p>Any suggestion would be appreciated.</p>
| Why using an adapted 15-pin SATA connector, my Hard Disk does not turn on? |
<p>The Gigaset GS190 32GB Grey is €100 and has dual sim, about as cheap as you can go with dual sim. There are cheaper options, but I don't know if those can run whatsapp.</p>
| 15351 | 2021-10-01T08:02:21.830 | |smartphones| | <p>Number of slots must be many. Main purpose is to store whatsapp sms and that's it.</p>
<p>Cheap price.</p>
<p>Cheapest cost per sim.</p>
<p>Being able to run multiple whatsapp account is a plus. So something like secure folder feature in Samsung</p>
| Recommend me phone with multiple sim slots |
<p>Would your issue be solved with a hub that has a replaceble/removable cable
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07CGCSQLF" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like this one?</a></p>
| 15354 | 2021-10-01T18:16:51.030 | |hub|usb-c| | <p>I am looking for a hub where I can plug the power supply, a couple USB accessories and FROM the hub run a long cable to the computer.</p>
<p>So the hub has to sit right by the power supply and, on my desk, I'd have only a single cable going to the computer.</p>
<p>But all hubs I find are like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmYJv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gmYJv.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>They have a short cable that goes to the computer and expect the power delivery to come from the longer cable. They're designed to sit by the computer, which is exactly the opposite of what I'd like.</p>
<p>I've tried one and it didn't charge when used in a "reversed" configuration.</p>
<p>Do they exist?</p>
| Looking for a USB-C hub with power delivery where the hub sits by the power supply (for MacBook Pro) |
<p>A GPU is kind of like a whole sub-computer on its own add-in board.</p>
<ul>
<li>There's a central processor with all the usual performance indicators like core count, IPC, clock speed, FLOPS benchmarks, supported instruction sets, etc.</li>
<li>There's a memory bus and memory modules with their own clock speed and bandwidth.</li>
<li>There's a PCIe bus with its own clock speed and bandwidth, kind of analogous to the bus that connects a CPU with the motherboard chipset.</li>
<li>It executes machine code compiled specifically for its architecture. (Shaders)</li>
</ul>
<p>Keeping all of that in mind, these factors all affect performance in different ways and the performance will vary depending on the program you want the system to execute. This is true for both CPUs and GPUs. A benchmark only tells you how fast <em>that program</em> will run. A different program will have different performance.</p>
<p>Ultimately you cannot know ahead of time what GPU is best for your OpenCL code unless somebody has already run <em>that specific code</em> on the GPU and benchmarked it. Every OpenCL program is going to utilize the GPU in a unique way. If your program does lots of simple floating point operations in parallel with the bare essential memory I/O, it will probably end up running better with the GPU that has a better theoretical FLOPS benchmark. But programs are never that simple, so FLOPS measurements are useful as an upper bound for performance; Not an average.</p>
| 15358 | 2021-10-02T01:18:17.387 | |graphics-cards| | <p>I am in search of GPU to run OpenCL code which mainly solves Navier-Stokes equations. I would like to get something that is not-so-pricey but something that could crunch some heavy numbers. The code is mainly written in single precision data types, but I would also like it so that it can do some decent double precision calculation also.</p>
<p>According to Geekbench OpenCL benchmark chart card with higher FP32/FP64 doesn't really seem to be reflecting better OpenCL performance: NVIDIA A6000 has FP32 of ~40 TFLOPS and NVIDIA RTX 3090 has ~35 TFLOPS, yet NVIDIA RTX 3090 has higher placement in the chart.</p>
<p>So, I was wondering what really dictates GPU's OpenCL performance? Are recent architectures usually better in OpenCL? Does having higher compute unit or processor count (CUDA cores for NVIDIA or Stream processor count for AMD) affect OpenCL performance?</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
| What dictates OpenCL performance for GPU? |
<blockquote>
<p>If I opt for Additional 2.5" 2 TB 5400RPM SATA Hard Drive, the battery 4 cells 64Whr battery should be selected.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This is probably because the larger battery takes up the space where a 2.5" HDD can be installed.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Does Using both SSD & SATA Hard drive impacts Laptop Performance?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>There is no surprise here, things that run on the SSD run at the SSD speed. Things that run on the HDD run at HDD speed. But since there's more stuff using power in the laptop the battery will be drained quicker. HDDs can conserve power by going to sleep if you make sure they're not being used in the background. If the HDD motor is running often, it will consume a little extra power and shorten the battery life.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Can someone shed some light on choosing up the hard drives & battery?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>It depends which matters more to you:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Is battery life the most important thing? -- Then get the 6 cell battery.<br />
You can always plug in a USB hard drive and get extra storage space that way.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Is tons of storage space without having to carry an external HDD important? -- Get the SATA HDD and "normal" battery. (4 cell batteries are typical)</p>
</li>
</ol>
| 15359 | 2021-10-02T06:42:17.443 | |laptop|hard-disk| | <p>I'm planning to buy <strong>New Precision 15 3561 Mobile Workstation</strong>, it supports dual hard drives.</p>
<p>For drive one, I picked 1 TB SSD</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UG7Si.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UG7Si.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>and opted for 6 cell 97WHr battery</p>
<p>For 2nd additional drive, these are the below options I have</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvCzI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvCzI.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>If I opt for <strong>Additional 2.5" 2 TB 5400RPM SATA Hard Drive</strong>, the battery 4 cells 64Whr battery should be selected.</p>
<p>I'm confused to pick the option here. Does Using both SSD & SATA Hard drive impacts Laptop Performance?</p>
<p>Can someone shed some light on choosing up the hard drives & battery?</p>
| Does Using both SSD & SATA Hard drive impacts Laptop Performance? |
<p>Cooling. When a cpu/soc/gpu gets hot, it slows down to get less hot. The ROG phone has a bigger heatsink than the samsung galaxy Z flip 3, and the ROG phone also has active cooling vs the samsung, which has passive cooling. That makes the ROG phone's SOC less hot so it slows down less. If your hands are getting warm during a mobile gaming session, you can improve performance by putting a random casefan under the phone so it has active cooling.</p>
| 15363 | 2021-10-03T07:50:07.247 | |gaming|smartphones| | <p>Now just wanted to make a disclaimer, I came from the iPhone side. and this is my first time in 5 years that I have used any android phones. So I have got myself a <a href="https://www.samsung.com/us/smartphones/galaxy-z-flip3-5g/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung Galaxy Z Flip 3</a>, and when I read the device <a href="https://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_z_flip3_5g-11044.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specifications</a>, it stated clearly that it has a Snapdragon 888 as it’s Chipset, and a Adreno 660 GPU. Now when I see these hardware, I expected the phone’s gaming performance to be excellent. But instead, when I jumped into <a href="https://genshin.mihoyo.com/m/en/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Genshin Impact</a>, it just gave me approximately 30-35 fps and <a href="https://www.callofduty.com/mobile" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Call Of Duty mobile</a> on approximately 50-60 fps when the screen is capable and is expected to display 120 fps. I understand how games are demanding and all but the fact that phones like the <a href="https://rog.asus.com/phones/rog-phone-5-model/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus ROG Phone</a> has the exact same chipset and GPU but from review videos on Youtube the games ran with such high frame rates as if it’s on a RTX 3090 and Core i9 11th gen or something. My question is, what has caused the difference in performance between these devices and if it is possible at all, how can I tune and tweak the system to get better performance?</p>
| With the same hardware, how is my phone getting worse performance than other phones? |
<p>Most computers parts, unfortunately, are being built for a rather short period of time these days... as you just found out.</p>
<p>For memory to be compatible, you want to find a replacement which has at least the exact same number of pins (like 288), speed (3000Mhz), and technology (DDR4).</p>
<p>Further, there are features such as ECC which, if not present on one stick will not work at all (as far as I know) and at times can generate issues (i.e. "break" the memory).</p>
<p>A good idea is for you to check your motherboard memory compatibility chart. However, it's likely that they would not have updated it with newer sticks... so it's probably not going to be that helpful.</p>
<p>Finally, if you plan to keep the old stick, you can test with one new stick and if it looks like you can use one or the other but not both together, then purchase a 2nd of the same new model and that should work together. It makes it a bit more expensive (unfortunate), but probably better than not being able to increase your RAM at all.</p>
<p>In terms of speed, like others said, it won't per se go faster since your CPU will remain the same. However, you will indeed be able to run more software together and avoid swapping to disk, which is definitely a great way to make things go faster on your computer (i.e. you don't have to close/re-open things all the time).</p>
| 15377 | 2021-10-06T11:20:56.383 | |memory|compatibility| | <p>So, I have a desktop which have a free RAM slot available and can host up to 16gb of RAM and I now need to fill the slot since I need to increase my computer computation power.</p>
<p>This is my current hardware:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>CPU INTEL COMET LAKE I3-10100 3.6G (4.3G TURBO) MB ASUS PRIME H410M-D</p>
<p>VGA-DVI-HDMI SSD-SOLID STATE DISK M.2(2280) NVME 250GB</p>
<p><strong>DDR4 16GB 3000MHZ HX430C16FB4/16 KINGSTON HYPERX FURY BLACK</strong></p>
<p>Power supply ATX 500W FORTRON MOD. HYPER K PRO HK-500 80PLUS ACTIVE PFCCL16</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Problem is I can't find that specific model to buy. What I can find is this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Kingston FURY 16GB DDR4 3000MHz CL16 Beast Black RAM 1x16GB, PC4-24000, CL16, voltage: 1.35V, passive cooling and XMP 2,0</p>
</blockquote>
<p>And, since I am no expert in hardware, I wonder if these two are compatible and if the one that I am planning to but will work. Any suggestions?</p>
| Are these two RAMs compatible? |
<p>I ended up buying the Huawei Freebuds Pro, which seem to check all the boxes.</p>
<p>Edit: can confirm, they check all these boxes. Good purchase.</p>
| 15388 | 2021-10-08T16:54:28.833 | |bluetooth|headphones|earphones| | <p>I have searched high and low for a set of ear pods that check all my boxes.</p>
<p>Let's say cost is not an issue, cheap or expensive, either works. They need to be true wireless earbuds, no over ear or buds connected by a wire.</p>
<p><strong>I need a pair of earbuds with the following features (at a minimum).</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Active Noise Cancellation</li>
<li>Bluetooth Multipoint</li>
<li>Ability to use each "bud" in mono mode</li>
</ul>
<p>I almost purchased the Jabra Elite 85t, but you can only use the one "bud" in mono mode, which was a deal breaker.</p>
<p>Does anyone have a hardware recommendation for me here?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance!</p>
| Wireless Ear Buds With Multipoint, ANC, and Mono Pod Usage |
<p>The few downsides of a second faster network card are that its bigger and it can be more expensive, but it can be used to upgrade an old pc for cheaper than replacing the motherboard. If you already have a motherboard, don't buy a new one, but if you still need to buy a motherboard, you can get a premium motherboard with fast networking.</p>
<p>There is another risk with a second network card though, they all (afaik) use PCIe 1x. That means that if you want 10gbps, you need to plug it in a pcie 3.0 or 4.0 slot, and those are only the 16x and m.2 slots on cheaper motherboards (like my B450m a pro max from msi)</p>
| 15401 | 2021-10-11T21:50:14.093 | |motherboard|network-adapter| | <p>I am planning to build a new tower pc. I saw that some premium motherboards offer 10Gb LAN. However, I think it would be cheaper to buy a 1Gb LAN motherboard and a 10Gb LAN PCI card. Is there any downside of this setting regarding speed? Or any other downside in general?</p>
<p>I found this post: <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/87ln4g/10_gbs_ethernet_motherboard/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/87ln4g/10_gbs_ethernet_motherboard/</a></p>
<p>However nobody gave a specific answer regarding potential downsides.</p>
<p>I plan to use the LAN for my internet and NAS (my internet provider and NAS both offer 10Gb)</p>
| Downside of a 10Gb PCI vs 10Gb motherboard |
<p>I think you can use this one from amazon: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08BYJYC5K" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Monitor-Display-Docking-Charging/dp/B08BYJYC5K</a></p>
<p>According to the description, it supports extending your desktop over USB-c, but it only works if you have thunderbolt or DP alt mode on both of your laptops. Your monitors need both displayport and hdmi for it to work properly, because there is only one DP and the hdmis are mirrored. (I have not tested this, I do not use USB-c docking)</p>
| 15402 | 2021-10-11T23:15:49.277 | |windows|multiple-monitors|hub|usb-c|macos| | <p>I'd like to be able to switch between a Windows and a MacOS laptop using the same 2 external monitors (for the sake of this conversation, we'll say they are fairly new Dell 27 inch monitors, let me know if other properties are important I guess) plugged into a USB hub.</p>
<p>I thought this would just be a matter of choosing a type C hub with the right inputs but after reading some it seems this may not be the case? I want to extend not mirror across the screens, also. Can anyone make a hub/port recommendation?</p>
| Which dual monitor hub that can switch between MacOS and Windows should I use |
<p>Both are a bit OP for studying informatics (I use an upgraded hp probook 650 g1). If you can get an Asus VivoBook 15 with an intel core i5 and 16GB of ram, that will be more than enough. Most times, you don't need a fast gpu, but a decent cpu, ssd and RAM are needed, and thats what that laptop has. A low price is also good for students, and this one costs about half of those zbooks.</p>
| 15414 | 2021-10-14T19:23:48.087 | |pc|windows|performance| | <p>I'm going to study informatics at the University. For this I want to choose a computer that is able to deal with the necessities there and is fast. I scanned the internet and stepped into the zbook series of HP. Now my question is whether HP ZBook 17 G3 or 15 G3 fulfill my requirements since I also want to use it for writing and dictating in Microsoft Office. What do you think according to the description I gave or are their other informations you need? Do you have any model recommendations for me?</p>
| Which PC to choose for my studies? |
<blockquote>
<p>How much bottleneck will my CPU have on this GPU?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>With Blender, probably none, because its done fully on CPU, or fully
on gpu. So if you set the render target to CUDA, it will have gpu speeds, no matter of your CPU speed.</p>
<hr />
<p>CPU frequency is not a measurement of performance. Your Intel i5 Y-Series has aggressive power management maintain strict thermal limitations. The 3.6 GHz turbo speed will only briefly be obtained, most of the time the CPU will be at a slower clock speed. Turbo is not loke overclocked speeds where it is always at the higher clock speed.</p>
<p>For Blendor the CPU is mostly just used to displaying results and dispatching rendering commands to the GPU. This CPU should be fast enough for that task.</p>
| 15425 | 2021-10-20T01:13:08.767 | |graphics-cards|processor|macbook| | <p>I am going to get a NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti and an eGPU chassis for my computer. I have a MacBook Air (I Know NVIDIA isn't supported for macOS) and use the eGPU on bootcamp.</p>
<p>I have heard that your CPU can bottleneck GPU performance. The main reason why I am purchasing this GPU is to increase Blender Cycles render times. How much bottleneck will my CPU have on this GPU?</p>
<p>Intel Core i5 8210Y (1.6 GHz, Dual-Core, 4 threads)</p>
<p>8 GB LPDDR3 2133 MHz RAM</p>
<p>MacBook Air (Retina, 13-inch, 2019)</p>
| How much of a bottleneck will I get with a 3060 Ti and Core i5 |
<p>Most modern CPUs are "APUs" and I actually recommend getting something with onboard graphics. 5600G is a <em>better</em> option here.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I can't afford GPU at the moment</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This is a <em>great</em> reason, especially in the great everything shortage to get a CPU with a decent onboard GPU.</p>
<p>I have an older/worse/laptop grade ryzen and... those things don't too bad, and even hold up well with casual gaming. I'd second Irsu's suggestion of getting dual channel ram, and the fastest you can afford</p>
<p>To start with - while setting up, and in future, it gives you a 'known good' graphics output for setup and testing.</p>
<p>"Crossfire" and "SLI" are vaguely obsolete and are ways to "tag team" two <em>identical</em> CPUs. The 'replacement' for it is <a href="https://developer.nvidia.com/explicit-multi-gpu-programming-directx-12" rel="nofollow noreferrer">explicit multi GPU</a>. This is not a factor here.</p>
<p>The integrated GPU can be disabled if a discrete GPU is in (or kept enabled) - in windows 10 and better, you could, in theory, set some applications to use the integrated GPU specifically for various reasons.In my case, I run additional monitors off my onboard graphics.</p>
<p>There's no downside, or compatibility issues with a integrated GPU other than that "you're potentially paying a little bit more for silicon you arn't using". In this case, it feels like a much better option than buying a "cheap" and probably overpriced GPU you're going to not need when you get your proper GPU.</p>
| 15430 | 2021-10-22T17:34:38.940 | |graphics-cards|motherboard|pc| | <p>Okay so I had finalized ryzen <strong>5600G</strong> APU because I can't afford GPU at the moment. So I'll add a GPU after couple of years when it get cheaper.</p>
<p>So far, I had read that there's not much difference between 'Processing' performance of an APU and equivalent CPU.</p>
<p>For example, the <strong>5600X</strong> CPU. It is same as 5600G but just lacks an integrated GPU.</p>
<p>Now, I just read following things <a href="https://linustechtips.com/topic/489115-the-pros-and-cons-of-apus/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">somewhere</a> - <strong>Pros and Cons of APU</strong>:</p>
<pre><code>Pros:
Smaller size - In form factors without enough room for a GPU, an APU is quite discrete.
Size to power - For they're size, they're impressive!
Crossfire capable - GPUs can be added in crossfire for upgradability.
Cons:
Less power - APUs can't pack the same punch as a GPU.
Shared memory - APUs use the same memory for CPU and graphics, limiting the amount.
Limited GPU crossfire options - Not everything works with these.
</code></pre>
<p>I quite don't understand what he meant by <strong>crossfire</strong>, but in the 3rd cons, he said limited GPU crossfire options. Not everything works with these...</p>
<p>So what <em>I've</em> concluded from this con is that 5600X will have more options of compatible GPUs (when I will upgrade) whereas 5600G will have less options available of compatible GPUs. <em>(This is what I've concluded. I don't know the reasons, if any, for this)</em></p>
<p>For example, it could be possible that 5600X supports 10 different GPUs. But 5600G will support only 7 of them.</p>
<p>So is it true for these processors?</p>
<p>I can make my final buying decision based on only this. If there's no compatibility issue, I'll go with 5600G otherwise I'll buy 5600X and a cheap separate GPU.</p>
<p><strong>So which one should I buy given that I don't want compatibility issues later?</strong></p>
| Should I buy APU or CPU keeping in mind I will add a GPU in near future |
<blockquote>
<p>If I use an NVMe PCIe Gen4 on an X16 slot of PCIe 3.0 ... do I get the full speed of the PCIe 4.0 NVMe?</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>No.</h3>
<p>PCIe 3.0 and PCIe 4.0 are like different "languages" that are used over the same physical connection. If your PC does not "know that language" it will fall back to the lowest common version of PCIe that both devices support.</p>
<p>I expect that the adapter will work, but it will work with PCIe 3.0 speeds.</p>
| 15442 | 2021-10-27T12:41:37.447 | |motherboard|ssd|pcie| | <p>My motherboard supports PCIe 3.0. If I use an NVMe PCIe Gen4 on an X16 slot of PCIe 3.0 (by common adapters) instead of an M.2 socket, do I get the full speed of the PCIe 4.0 NVMe?</p>
| PCIe 4.0 NVMe on X16 PCIe 3.0 |
<p>First, for those stumbling across this question who don't fully understand what the VRM's job is:</p>
<p>A VRM is a fine-tuned DC to DC power supply for voltage-sensitive electronics like a CPU or GPU. It usually has multiple "phases" that it switches between to ensure that the average voltage output is stable, and so that the components don't have to work for 100% of the time and overheat. (4 phases means each phase is supplying power 25% of the time)</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What is the major difference? What are the advantages/inconveniences with having a 'Digital VRM' instead of a 'normal VRM'?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Modern CPUs can decide how much voltage they need to get a certain task done, or to help itself cool off. They tell the VRM to provide a target voltage over a digital connection. This allows the VRM to use a <a href="https://en.wikichip.org/wiki/voltage_regulator_module#Feedback_and_regulation" rel="nofollow noreferrer">feedback loop</a> so it can control itself based on its own output versus the target output.</p>
<p>On an Analog VRM, the target voltage is compared to the actual voltage in an analog circuit that uses transistors. It is designed to always adjust voltage to make the difference between the two signals be as close to 0 as possible. This is an older/simpler design and works just fine. In fact, analog systems can be very accurate and still show up on "high end" motherboards.</p>
<p>On a Digital VRM, there is a microcontroller that reads all of the voltage values in digital and uses algorithms & math to set the output voltage. Normally using a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PID controller</a>. The microcontroller allows the VRM to be "smarter" about how it outputs voltage and may be aware of other conditions in the system to better manage the power.</p>
<p>Generally speaking, analog VRMs respond faster and are cheaper to make.<br />
Digital VRMs are very complex and require a lot of tuning work to make them effective; But if they are designed properly they can do the job well while also providing many extra power management controls or features. (In the BIOS or motherboard software)</p>
<p>In either case, there can be poorly designed VRMs that do not perform well, and really high quality VRMs that can handle extreme overclocking. There is no general answer to which is better.</p>
<p>TL;DR:</p>
<ul>
<li>The CPU tells the VRM what voltage to supply.</li>
<li>An analog VRM uses transistors in specially designed circuits to make the voltage always move towards the requested level.</li>
<li>A digital VRM uses a microcontroller and algorithms to make the voltage move towards the requested level.</li>
<li>Either kind can be built poorly, both can be great for overclocking if made well.</li>
</ul>
| 15444 | 2021-10-27T16:22:07.020 | |motherboard| | <p>I've been looking around for VRMs, and some of them mention being '<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B081JDP378" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Digital VRMs</a>'</p>
<p>What is the major difference? What are the advantages/inconveniences with having a 'Digital VRM' instead of a 'normal VRM'?</p>
<p>Or is the 'Digital VRM' thing just a marketing ploy?</p>
| What is the meaning of a 'Digital' VRM solution? |
<p>According to Reddit and Geekbench, Yes</p>
<p>Sources: <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/eGPU/comments/igul8w/macos_10156_and_gigabyte_radeon_rx_5500_xt_oc_8g/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.reddit.com/r/eGPU/comments/igul8w/macos_10156_and_gigabyte_radeon_rx_5500_xt_oc_8g/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://browser.geekbench.com/metal-benchmarks" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://browser.geekbench.com/metal-benchmarks</a></p>
| 15448 | 2021-10-28T01:52:31.437 | |graphics-cards|macos| | <p>I want to purchase an AMD Radeon 5500 XT to improve FCPX renders and faster Blender renders.</p>
<p>I assume this would be a eGPU. Does macOS support this video card?</p>
| Does the Radeon 5500-XT support macOS Metal? |
<p>You can get a Ryzen 3 3100 and overclock it. Also run Ubuntu server, because its faster than Pop OS. Also make sure your internet connection is fast enough, because I host a minecraft server myself and I am bottlenecked by my upload speed. If the cpu is too expensive, you can cheap out on the motherboard, any B450 board will do. Forget Xeons, those are too expensive for what they do.</p>
| 15453 | 2021-10-30T18:17:56.820 | |processor|gaming|pc|server|performance| | <p>I started hosting a MC server on a dedicated machine at home for a week now and I wanted to get something a bit better, it runs with a few plugins - 5GB ram dedicated to the server.</p>
<p>So, my budget is around £100 just for the cpu, (motherboard in that range is also great! xD) new or used. I want to know what would be an optimal CPU for a rough 50 players online, with plugins, and 15 chunk render distance.
At the moment i run a AMD Athlon x4 880k and 8GB 2133Mhz memory DDR3 (5G to server) but even at 4 players online i see the MSPT over 35 and the server TPS often goes below 20 (50 players is unreachable xD) - currently on latest build of Purpur.jar and PopOS! Linux.</p>
<p>I have read online that Xeon is better, NO, Ryzen is better, no this, no that.... so..... WHAAT ONE IS BETTER LMAO! I have heard that the only thing that matters is Single Core Performance, so an Intel core i3-10105F is within my budget as it beats a 3700x in this application. Is this good for what i need, or can i get better in any way..... any feedback is welcome. Thanks! :D</p>
<p>if neither of these cpu's could run 50 players at once, how much would they be able to run?</p>
| What would be an optimal CPU to get for a Minecraft Server for around 100$ if any? (50 player server) |
<p>There are many options here, the question you have to ask yourself is how much work do you want to put into it?</p>
<p>A NAS is essentially a full computer that is self-contained in a nice little enclosure. You can either get one of the premade ones like the Synology one you mentioned, or build your own, or simply connect them to an old computer and share the hard drives with Windows SMB.</p>
<p>I will say this, the Synology one will be much easier to configure and manage. The DSM management software is very well made, just a point and a click to accomplish most tasks to get your stuff running.</p>
<p>As for the hard drive enclosure connected to your router, that depends on your router. Are you asking about an external enclosure to a router's USB port? If your router supports sharing external storage via its USB port, then yes you could. If it only supports DLNA then it won't work as a full NAS. You'll have to check with your router specs to know for sure.</p>
<p>I use an <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00XLAZ9KC" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">external hard drive dock</a> to connect my HDDs to my computer.
From there, you could SMB or NFS share them on your network and devices could access them, but only when connected to a computer. Again, an old computer laying around would suffice if you really wanted a NAS. But the Synology would be the better option in my opinion.</p>
| 15460 | 2021-11-02T10:43:11.010 | |nas| | <p>I have a bunch of 2.5" HDDs lying around, I'm never going to use them in a laptop as they're too slow. However, they'll work fine as a media server.</p>
<p>What I'd like to do is bung them in a RAID array and have them accessible by the network by my various devices.</p>
<p>What are my hardware options for achieving this?</p>
<p>When I google 'wireless nas' I get things like the Synology DS220+ - but these things are expensive - is that really what I need?</p>
<p>What about a simple hard drive enclosure - attached directly to my router? Would that work?</p>
| Wireless hard drive enclosure to make use of my old spinning platter HDDs |
<p>There is an advantage of running faster memory, although its not much. If you can get the 1600mhz dimms for about the same price or a bit more expensive than the 1333mhz dimms, get the 1600mhz dimms</p>
<p>The performance uplift is small though, so if the 1600mhz dimms are a lot more expensive than the 1333mhz dimms just get the 1333mhz dimms.</p>
| 15461 | 2021-11-02T12:53:54.497 | |motherboard|memory| | <p>I have a desktop at home. The CPU is i5-6400. Internet search shows me the processor can use DDR4-1866/2133 or DDR3L-1333/1600 @1.35V. I opened the case and found there are two slots, both having DDR3L-1333 4GB modules installed (total 8GB, DIMM module).<br />
I learned I can't insert DDR4 modules becaus the slot is not compatible. Of course I could update to two 8GB DDR3L-1333 modules, but can I upgrade the memory with two 8GB DDR3L-1600 modules? (total 16GB, faster memory). Is there any CPU grade for the memory interface speed?</p>
| can I replace my memory with faster one? |