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<pre><code>https://www.performance-computer.com/learn/ssds-compared/ SATA3 Hard Drive SATA3 SSD NVMe SSD ~100 MB/s Read 530 MB/s Read 3,500 MB/s Read ~100 MB/s Write 500 MB/s Write 3,000 MB/s Write </code></pre> <p>M.2 is a <strong>form factor</strong>, it technically has nothing to do with speed or performance.</p> <p>You can get m.2 storage (to replace your disk or ssd) and this storage can connect either via the <strong>SATA3 protocol</strong> or <strong>NVMe protocol</strong>.</p> <p>SATA3 is limited to 6 gbit/sec, which then connects to the PCIe bus.</p> <p>NVMe is a protocol allowing a direct connection to the PCIe bus, it not limited to the 6gbiy/sec transfer rate limitation of the sata3 interface, and is thus faster.</p> <p><a href="https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/m2-with-pcie-or-sata" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/m2-with-pcie-or-sata</a></p> <p>using an m.2 form factor storage device having a sata3 interface, will be no different than using a typical 2.5" form factor solid state disk (SSD) which also using the sata3 interface.</p>

12726

2020-01-15T07:04:29.823

|laptop|memory|hard-disk|ssd|

<p>I have a HP laptop </p> <p>I want to upgrade my HP 15 ay122ne (i7-7500U 8GB RAM 1TB HDD 4GB graphics)</p> <p>Can anyone please help me with the following:</p> <ul> <li><p>For max performance, which is better, a 2.5" SSD or m.2 SSD ?</p></li> <li><p>How much RAM can I upgrade on this laptop- can I insert another 16 GB DDR4 into this laptop ..like whats the maximum it can support running windows 10 ?</p></li> </ul> <p>My laptop isn't slow or anything but I want to take out the HDD inside it and use it as an external storage device in a USB HDD enclosure, and also to experience how fast SSD works (I have never used a laptop with SSD).</p>

m.2 vs ssd which is better

<h1>USB-C KVM</h1> <p>The product you're describing does exist... kind of. However, because it's a niche product, there are only really two implementations I'm aware of—both of which are very expensive and don't really do quite what you want.</p> <h2>US3310 - $200</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ52D.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ52D.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Though the exact branding and seller varies, there are at least two (<a href="https://www.kvm-switches-online.com/us3310.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1</a>, <a href="https://www.iogear.com/product/GUD3C04/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2</a>) identical versions of this hub for sale. It features two switchable USB-C connections (with power passthrough), two USB-A in, one HDMI 1.4 out, and a USB-C power port. Notice the HDMI out: while this will work just fine, you'll have to drive your monitor off HDMI—not USB-C. This means that you won't be able to use the USB hub in the monitor without a second adapter to plug it in to the USB plugs on the front. Eugh.</p> <h2>Black Box - $300</h2> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zAORZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zAORZ.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Again, we've got two switchable USB-C connections, several USB-A in, and a DisplayPort out. Again, we've got the same issue, where you'd need an adapter to use the hub in the monitor.</p> <h1>Standard KVM + Hub</h1> <p>Another option to keep the single-cable functionality is just to have your laptop connect to a USB-C hub, which then breaks out into a "standard" display interface and USB, then runs into a KVM. Is this discarding one of the key features of your monitor? Yes. Is it cheaper and cleaner than getting a USB-C KVM? Maybe, depends on your idea of cleanliness. But it's almost certainly cheaper. Depending on what specs you end up deciding you want, you can get a hub for about $30 and a KVM for about $40. If you choose to go this route, I can definitely make some more specific suggestions.</p> <h1>Software KVM</h1> <p>Through the power of networking and software, you could get most of the functionality of these hardware solutions with almost none of the hassle. Using something like <a href="https://symless.com/synergy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Synergy</a>, you can share your mouse and keyboard over the network. However, since this would require the laptop to be plugged in, even when you're using the desktop, I'm going to assume this is probably a no-go. Further, other USB devices aren't shared, so if you wanted to (for example) plug in a USB drive, you wouldn't be able to use the hub.</p> <h1>Just buying a different monitor</h1> <p>This is probably going to sound really stupid, and in a certain sense, it is. However, it's also probably the cleanest, nicest way to get what you're looking for. Currently, several monitors offer built-in KVMs and USB-C, with convenient switching between them. Are they all more expensive than the P27H? Yes. But will they also offer a lot of other benefits, including greater resolution, size, or color accuracy (depending on the model)? Yes.</p> <p>I won't go too in depth into each monitor right now—again, if you decide this is the right path for you, I'll be happy to help more—but here's a quick overview.</p> <h2>Philips 499P9H - $850</h2> <p><strong>48.4", 5120 x 1440 @ 70 Hz, VA</strong> <strong>2x HDMI, 1x DP, 2x USB-C, 2x USB-C hub, Ethernet, headphone jack</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HdRdE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HdRdE.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <h2>Philips 346B1C - $440</h2> <p><strong>34", 3440x1440 @ 100 Hz w/ FreeSync, VA</strong> <strong>1x DP, 1x HDMI, 1x USB-C, 1x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HfKU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HfKU.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <h2>Samsung CJ890 - $770</h2> <p><strong>43.4", 3840 x 1200 @ 120 Hz, VA</strong></p> <p><strong>1x HDMI, 1x DP, 2x USB-C, 1x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub, headphone jack</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqJIz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqJIz.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <h2>Dell U3419W - $750</h2> <p><strong>34.1", 3440 x 1440 @ 60 Hz, IPS</strong></p> <p><strong>2x HDMI, 1x DP, 1x USB-C, 2x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjRli.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjRli.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <h2>Dell U3219Q - $750</h2> <p><strong>31.5", 3840 x 2160 @ 60 Hz, IPS</strong></p> <p><strong>1x DP, 1x HDMI, 1x USB-C, 1x USB-B, 4x USB-A hub</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWH6H.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWH6H.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

12730

2020-01-15T15:16:00.323

|usb|monitors|mice|

<p>I have a USB-C screen (<a href="https://www.lenovo.com/de/de/accessories-and-monitors/monitors/professional/P27h-10A16270QP127inch-Monitor-HDMI/p/61AFGAT1EU" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo ThinkVision P27H</a>) which I want to connect my laptop to, so that I just need one wire for charging and video. The screen also features a USB hub, which is why I would like to connect my USB mouse and keyboard to the screen, so that I <em>really</em> just need one wire.</p> <p>Here comes the problem: I want to run a desktop PC with the same screen (but not simultaneously), and this PC also uses the same mouse and keyboard.</p> <p>So, what I'm looking for is a solution that allows me to use my peripheries on both machines <em>without plugging in and out</em> my mouse and keyboard everytime.</p> <p>The screen only features one upstream USB port, which is the USB-C one. My desktop doesn't have a USB-C port.</p> <p>I thought about something like a USB-C switch, or more like a "splitter" (one USB-C in, two USB-C out) that I can connect to the screen. Then I could connect my laptop to this switch, as well as a USB-C to USB-3 adapter to talk to my desktop PC. My hope is that this enables me to use the USB hub of the screen no matter which device I'm currently using.</p>

How to connect USB peripheries to USB Hub on monitor and desktop PC without unplugging?

<p>I wouldn't suggest moving from an Android to a iOS (due to iOS's weird way it handles restoring from an Android backup) but if you wanted it from brand new, no contacts or pictures, iPhones are pretty reliable and don't force many apps on you. It comes installed with some useless apps for most people, but pretty much all of those can be deleted. Here are the apps on an iPhone that are forced (this is on a iPhone XR, on iOS 13.3).</p> <ul> <li>Photos</li> <li>Wallet</li> <li>Camera</li> <li>Clock</li> <li>Health</li> <li>Phone</li> <li>Messages</li> <li>Find My (Finds your iDevices and friends)</li> <li>Settings</li> <li>App Store</li> </ul> <p>There are productivity apps avalible, and a file app but those are optional.</p>

12751

2020-01-21T15:48:28.297

|smartphones|mobile-phone|

<p>I use <em>OnePlus 6</em> smartphone which I bought about 18 months ago; I generally really like this smartphone and generally happy I bought it.<br> _{Putting aside the <code>cannot-be-deleted</code> and <code>in-my-opinion-crappy</code> "Zen mode" of the Oxygen (Android) OS of One Plus.}</p> <h2>My problem</h2> <p>I was always annoyed from the fact that Android always necessitated me to have some applications installed even if I didn't want them installed and only let me "disable" them, if at all to have and couldn't delete them.</p> <p>This has become very annoying with new apps of Andorid 10, that I can't even disable, such as:</p> <ul> <li><strong>File manager</strong></li> <li><strong>Game Space</strong></li> </ul> <p>I also always had an application which I always found redundant: "Sim toolkit".</p> <h2>My question</h2> <p>What smartphone doesn't necessitate me to have any application besides basic applications (as defined):</p> <ul> <li>settings</li> <li>store</li> <li>calendar</li> <li>clock</li> <li>sms</li> <li>phone</li> <li>Calculator</li> <li>Camera</li> <li>Files (with an option to create a folder for images without one created for me in ways I won't necessarily like)</li> </ul> <p><strong>?</strong></p> <p>_{<strong>Note:</strong> I also use native Notes apps often but I wouldn't necessarily want to use one that come with such smartphone (I might want to integrate my Microsoft Windows notes with those of the smartphone so I would need another app).}</p>

What smartphone doesn't necessitate me to have any application besides basic applications (as defined)?

<p>I made a diy flexible sensor for diaper-free time - not exactly what OP asked but still might be helpful. You can make it smaller with thinner tape and sheet but still probably not comfortable/usable within diaper. (Side note: Good diapers actually have wet color-changing strip on them, which is much more practical. You can just replace them every 3-4 hours or look at the strip.)</p> <p>I used adhesive copper tape (2cm wide) to make the rain sensor-like pattern on top of OHP transparent printing sheet. I also printed out the pattern on OHP sheet to help lay out the tape (visible from back). This makes for a nice large A4-size sensor which is flexible, waterproof and not easy to tear. Then I use 2 alligator clip to attach to 2 rails and connect to mcu. It would be nice to upgrade to a single clip with 2 connectors to make it quicker to detach.</p> <p>One issue I noticed is that human body resistance can also trigger false positive if you sleep directly on it (think of resistance of skin between two closest fingers of the sensor, not whole body resistance). Rather, I use a super-thin 20GSM hospital/salon-purpose bedsheet which is laid out on the sensor and lay the baby on this bedsheet. Because it's very thin and absorbent, as little as 3 drops of water easily soak to the bottom side and activate the sensor while increasing the non-wet resistance to infinity (beyond multimeter measurement). It's also more comfortable to sleep on.</p> <p>Front side - <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJymA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJymA.jpg" alt="Front side" /></a></p> <p>Back side - <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rjf20.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rjf20.jpg" alt="Back side" /></a></p> <p>20GSM hospital bedsheet example - <a href="https://zjhuachen.en.made-in-china.com/product/XxNRpFUvEScu/China-Disposable-Nonwoven-Bed-Sheets-of-Waterproof-Oilproof-20GSM-Spunbond-Non-Oven-Fabric-PP-Polypropylene-Non-Woven-Cloth-for-Beauty-Salon-SPA.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://zjhuachen.en.made-in-china.com/product/XxNRpFUvEScu/China-Disposable-Nonwoven-Bed-Sheets-of-Waterproof-Oilproof-20GSM-Spunbond-Non-Oven-Fabric-PP-Polypropylene-Non-Woven-Cloth-for-Beauty-Salon-SPA.html</a></p>

12756

2020-01-22T07:54:30.723

|arduino|

<p>I am thinking of creating a device that will detect water leaking/ water detection. I am currently using this: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VR9JS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VR9JS.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>And this one I want but it is costly and not available on Amazon India or flipkart : <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgZV6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgZV6.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>I don't know if there is a small alternative for water detection as good as them. I tried searching but what I am getting was these sensors. So if you guys know any small size sensor to detect water presence please let me know. And if it comes with buzzer it will be a lot of help. </p>

small size Alternative of raindrop sensor

<p>You get any robust SBC. The handheld scanners already convert the QR code to text so you don't need to worry about vision recognition. It might be easier if your scanner has a virtual COM mode rather then the usual keyboard simulation.</p> <p>If you truly want to play with vision recognition then nothing beats nVidia's Jetson - SBCs with integrated nVidia GPU. AFAIK similar hardware is used both in Nintendo Switch and Tesla's autopilot.</p> <p>Personally I'd get an SBC based on an i.MX processor since they have good Yocto support, including Qt. Something like this: <a href="https://www.digi.com/products/embedded-systems/single-board-computers/connectcore-6-sbc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.digi.com/products/embedded-systems/single-board-computers/connectcore-6-sbc</a></p> <p>That said, the only issue with Pi's robustness, as far as I'm aware, are power cuts - if you power it off when it's writing to the SD card it might damage the filesystem. And being rated only to work in non-freezing temperatures.</p>

12759

2020-01-23T05:28:24.760

|sbc|

<p>I am looking for a Single Board Computer which would be used for the following purpose:</p> <p>1) Scan a QR code through a QR code scanner attached to it.</p> <p>2) Send the text of the QR code scanner to a backend and retrieve data, which would be displayed on a display attached to the SBC.</p> <p>3) The SBC would be continuously functional and will have to be robust enough to run 24/7 in an external environment.</p> <p>4) Should be capable enough to power a QR code scanner.</p> <p>The SBC would connect to the backend through WiFi. Raspberry Pi satisfies a lot of these criteria, but I am a bit apprehensive about how robust it could be. Any suggestions for what SBC could be potentially used for such an application?</p>

Selecting Single Board Computer for Project

<p>From the benchmarks found <a href="https://www.servethehome.com/xfx-amd-radeon-rx-5700-xt-update-and-review/3/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> , the GIOPS (Integer Operation Per Second) for the Nvidia 2080Ti is second only to the RTX Titan, but for 1/3 the price. <br/>Since this specific workload contains a lot of small chunck of memory transfer, It seems like two 2080Ti(s) are the logical choice all domain (budget, memory IO, ram, computing power) considered.</p>

12765

2020-01-23T19:00:36.543

|graphics-cards|

<p>I have a very particular workload that requires GPU (OpenCL mandatory) acceleration. However, from what I hear, GPU are optimized for <strong>floating points</strong> computing, where the task I need acceleration for requires a lot of <strong>Integer</strong> computing, and those Integer computing scores are kinda hard to find.</p> <p>More specifically (out of the whole data sent to the GPU), the workload consist of:</p> <p><strong>- 60% of 8 bits unsigned integer, mostly used for performing ADDITIONS (adding random bytes together)<br/><br/> - 20% of 64 bits unsigned integer, again, mostly used for performing ADDITIONS (adding random bytes together)<br/><br/> - 20% of 32 bits floats, used for performing trigonometry on results from previous Integers sums<br/></strong></p> <p>Unrelated points that may affect the choice :<br/> A lot of memory chunk transfer ([1 MB to 30MB]) from the CPU -> GPU, and vice versa, by multiple threads at the same time.<br/> The more memory, the better.<br/> Speed is important, but multiple GPU is an option if necessary.<br/></p> <p>All OpenCL benchmark I can see do not have these specific informations (mostly, <strong>Integer</strong> related information) in their score.</p> <p>Do you have a GPU in mind that would be convenient for such task ?<br/> Thanks a lot guys !</p>

Which GPU would you recommend for this particular workload?

<h1>There is no board that fits your exact requirements. Get an add-in capture card.</h1> <p>Assuming we allow 4K@30 output, getting 4K out is a pretty simple task since most every board supports HDMI 1.4. Unfortunately, encoding a 4K stream, even at 30 Hz, is an extremely demanding task, and putting that requirement on an SBC makes things... complicated. Let's run through some of the options.</p> <h2>x86 boards with video input</h2> <p>Intel embed-oriented processors—namely Apollo Lake and Cherry Trail—contain support for the MIPI-CSI interface, and there are a variety of boards with support for these processor lines. However, only a few actually have a the requisite connector on the board. From most to least powerful, they are the <a href="https://up-board.org/upsquared/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">UP²</a> and <a href="https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/pico-itx-boards-pico-apl3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PICO-APL3</a>, <a href="https://up-board.org/upcoreplus/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">UP Core Plus</a>, <a href="https://up-board.org/upcore/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Up Core</a> and <a href="https://rockpi.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ROCK Pi X</a>.</p> <p>Interfacing with the MIPI-CSI port can be accomplished through the use of an HDMI to CSI bridge. Toshiba manufactures three such chips: the <a href="https://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/us/semiconductor/product/interface-bridge-ics-for-mobile-peripheral-devices/hdmir-interface-bridge-ics.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TC358743XBG, TC358840XBG, and TC358870XBG</a>, the latter two of which support 3840x2160@30. However, there is no reference or development board available to my knowledge, and the only consumer boards available—the Auvidea B100, B101, and B102—use the TC358743XBG. Additionally, these boards rely on a V4L2 driver to interface properly—something that obviously isn't available on Windows. While it's possible that they'd work just fine with Windows, it's hard to say. Outside of these, you'd be resorting to designing your own board or trolling AliExpress for an appropriate board. </p> <p>Further, Apollo Lake and Cherry Trail processors are... not powerful. I wouldn't trust them to perform a high quality software encode, and given they only have HD Graphics 505 at best, I wouldn't trust them to handle it with Quick Sync Video either.</p> <h2>Powerful ARM boards with CSI video input</h2> <p>I know you've already discussed it to some extent, but the Jetson does make a fairly compelling case. It's got the most powerful GPU of any SBC I know, and 4K encode with NVENC should be will within reach—and NVENC looks good, even compared to a software encoder. Unfortunately, it's obviously not going to run standard Windows, so unless your application happens to run on Windows 10 on ARM, you'd have to refactor your application. Further, it uses MIPI-CSI for video input, not HDMI, which puts us back in the same situation as the x86 boards where there's (as of yet) no adapter.</p> <h2>ARM boards with HDMI video input</h2> <p>Similarly, there are a number of boards with HDMI video input. Unfortunately, most of these boards aren't particularly powerful, nor do they support standard desktop Windows, giving us many of the same problems as before.</p> <ul> <li>i.MX boards: Several i.MX SoCs include built-in support for MIPI-DSI video input, making them a popular and simple choice. Unfortunately, they're generally not powerful. <ul> <li><a href="https://www.gateworks.com/products/imx6-single-board-computer-gateworks-ventana-family/gw5510-single-board-computer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ventana GW5510</a>: i.MX6 ARM 1c A9 @ 800 MHz. Only lists support for 1080p@60 input and output.</li> <li><a href="https://www.geniatech.com/product/apc810/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Geniatech NXP i.MX 8M</a>: 4c i.MX 8M ARM 4c A53 + M4 @ 1.5 GHz. Supports 2160p@60 out, but only 1080p@60 in.</li> <li><a href="https://boundarydevices.com/product/bd_hdmi_mipi/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Boundary Devices BD_HDMI_MIPI</a>: Isn't an SBC itself, but allows any i.MX6 or i.MX8 board to use an HDMI input over CSI. However, since it uses the TC358743XBG, it only supports 1080p@60.</li> </ul></li> <li><a href="https://www.inforcecomputing.com/products/application-ready-platforms/qualcomm-snapdragon-600-inforce-6420t" rel="nofollow noreferrer">INFORCE 6420</a>: 4c Snapdragon 600E ARM 4c @ 1.7 GHz. Only supports 1080p in and out.</li> <li><a href="http://www.orangepi.org/Orange%20Pi%20RK3399/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Orange Pi RK3399</a>: 4c RK3399 ARM A53 + 2c ARM @ 2.0 GHz. Supports 2160p@60 out, but unknown in.</li> <li>Tronsmart PAVO M9: Some random settop box that happens to have HDMI in. No idea what the specs are, technically not an SBC, but <a href="https://blog.danman.eu/using-tronsmart-pavo-m9-for-hdmi-input-streaming/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">someone did manage</a> to get something going with it.</li> </ul> <h2>Powerful x86 boards without video input</h2> <p>This is probably the most reasonable option. Given the availability of USB and PCI-e based capture cards, using a capture card with a powerful board would allow for everything to work—just with some extra effort and hardware. Given the widespread availability of this type of SBC (and similar NUCs), I won't attempt to enumerate every possible board. However, using software, Intel's Quick Sync Video, Nvidia's NVENC, or AMD's VCE are all possible depending on which exact hardware you get (though you should note that VCE in particular falls behind the others.) Some manufacturers you may want to look at include <a href="https://www.udoo.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Udoo</a>, <a href="https://up-shop.org/home/343-up-xtreme.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Up</a>, <a href="https://www.aaeon.com/en/c/embedded-boards" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Aaeon</a>, and <a href="http://ibase-usa.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ibase</a>.</p>

12769

2020-01-24T08:01:15.200

|pc|hdmi|4k|development-board|

<p>I would like to run a multimedia windows application to run on a compact single board computer. </p> <p>Here are the requirements:</p> <ol> <li>4K@30fps HDMI input</li> <li>4K@30fps HDMI output</li> <li>2 USB 3.0</li> <li>Windows OS</li> <li>Powerful board capable of encoding and decoding 4K video</li> </ol> <p>I am wondering if there is any Single board that can match the above requirents?</p>

Single Board Windows PC with 4K HDMI input and 4K Output

<p>Any of the following Logitech Keyboards with their "Easy-Switch" technology will allow you to switch between multiple devices via Bluetooth. They have three buttons or a 3-way dial to switch instantly between up to three devices.</p> <p>I personally use the tenkeyless (TKL) Logitech K480 at work since it can switch between 3 devices and has a tray for my cell phone. If you'd like a numberpad, the Logitech K780 is a good choice. Here are all of the keyboards that Logitech sells direct-to-consumer that contain the <a href="https://www.logitech.com/en-us/keyboards?filters=3948,3949,3959" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Easy-Switch technology</a>. For some reason the K480 is on its own page <a href="https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/multi-device-keyboard-k480" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. Most Logitech keyboards can also be purchased online or at Brick-and-Mortar stores such as Amazon, Best Buy, Micro Center, Newegg, Staples, Walmart, ect.</p> <p>As far as mice go, Logitech continues with their MX Anywhere lineup. Any of the MX 2S or 3 series mice will have Easy-Switch. They also let you copy files on one PC and paste them on another which is a nice feature to have. You may find the MX Anywhere 2S <a href="https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-anywhere-2s-flow?crid=7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>

12770

2020-01-24T09:22:07.323

|keyboards|bluetooth|mice|

<p>I am looking for a keyboard (and optionally a mouse) that is Bluetooth-enabled and backlit and can switch between different Bluetooth devices (pc and tablet/phone). </p>

Multi Device Bluetooth keyboard and mouse

<p>We need to find out what that panel actually is. Let's try searching for Inspiron 7520 LCD replacement panel: <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=dell+inspiron+7520+lcd+replacement+panel" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.google.com/search?q=dell+inspiron+7520+lcd+replacement+panel</a> this is not fruitful immediately but it does lead to <a href="https://www.dell.com/community/Laptops-General-Read-Only/Dell-Inspiron-15r-7520-SE-screen-model-number/td-p/4304809" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.dell.com/community/Laptops-General-Read-Only/Dell-Inspiron-15r-7520-SE-screen-model-number/td-p/4304809</a> tells us the screen Dell part number is DC9YJ. Progress!</p> <p>Feeding that into Google <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=dc9yj" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.google.com/search?q=dc9yj</a> we quickly find (it's in the result list, even) the panel is compatible with LP156WFC(TL)(B1). (A quick countercheck shows it's <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=LP156WFC+resolution&amp;oq=LP156WFC+resolution&amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.1798j0j1&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">resolution</a> is indeed FHD)</p> <p>Our next and last search is for the driver board for that: <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=LP156WFC(TL)(B1)+driver+board" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.google.com/search?q=LP156WFC(TL)(B1)+driver+board</a> which leads us to </p> <p><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kit-for-LP156WFC-TL-B1-LED-LCD-Controller-Driver-Board-HDMI-DVI-VGA-/122509319792" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kit-for-LP156WFC-TL-B1-LED-LCD-Controller-Driver-Board-HDMI-DVI-VGA-/122509319792</a></p> <p>which is what you are looking for I believe.</p>

12780

2020-01-26T06:07:16.680

|monitors|

<p>My old laptop is now out of service, but it had a very nice FHD screen that works with <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B072K4MKG4" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this cable</a>, while I'm missing a second monitor for myself.</p> <p>I've seen <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-a-dead-laptop-into-a-monitor-with-Plexiglas-s/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a> and was wondering if there was any off-the shelf tool that would allow me to use the screen as a second monitor, even if without the stand at first.</p> <p>Anything that accepts HDMI or display port as input would be great. Something that ships internationally would be nice too.</p>

Tool to reuse old laptop screen as a monitor

<p>You are looking for a DPDT (double pole, double throw) relay. This has a schematic like this: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yqny3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yqny3.jpg" alt="RT-1-DPDT-8A"></a></p> <p>You can find such relays in stock at multiple suppliers, though I highly recommend digikey. Here's a list of 5V DPDT Power Relays with over 2A:</p> <p><a href="https://www.digikey.com/products/en/relays/power-relays-over-2-amps/188?k=&amp;pkeyword=&amp;sv=0&amp;pv1409=340465&amp;sf=1&amp;FV=72%7C249586%2C675%7C380320%2C1409%7C202417%2C1409%7C228181%2C1409%7C228236%2C1409%7C228243%2C1409%7C228247%2C1409%7C340465%2C1409%7C340495%2C1409%7C340503%2C1409%7C340511%2C1409%7C340512%2C1409%7C405969%2C-8%7C188&amp;quantity=&amp;ColumnSort=0&amp;page=1&amp;stock=1&amp;pageSize=25" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Digikey.com - 5V DPDT Relays (through hole)</a></p> <p><a href="https://www.mouser.ca/Electromechanical/Relays/_/N-5g31Z1yzvvqx?P=1z0x3ypZ1z0x3tdZ1y8q6ai" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Mouser.com 5V DPDT</a></p>

12794

2020-01-28T09:45:57.140

|switch|

<p>I am searching for a power relay to switch between two 24V power supplies. Currently I use two separate 5V relays switched on from the same digital output.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ILuox.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ILuox.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>something like this</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lb1s8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lb1s8.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>I looked in RS and Mouser but am not able to find anything useful. Since there are footprints available I guess such relays exist and hopefully for my requirements.</p>

5V 2 channel relay for <50V

<p>The Oculus Go or Oculus Quest are probably your best bets. Put them in Kiosk mode to boot into your application, bypassing the traditional Oculus Home screen.</p> <p>Here is an article with instructions: <a href="https://theslidefactory.com/kiosk-mode-oculus-quest/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://theslidefactory.com/kiosk-mode-oculus-quest/</a></p> <p>Alternatively, Oculus is making an Enterprise Edition if you need more features and support: <a href="https://uploadvr.com/oculus-quest-enterprise-edition/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://uploadvr.com/oculus-quest-enterprise-edition/</a></p>

12814

2020-01-29T09:40:55.927

|development|vr-headset|

<p>I am looking to build a system where many VR Headsets are remote controlled by one device on the same LAN. The idea is that all headsets boot directly into the slave app, which for now only shows a video after that is started on the remote control. Ideally I am looking for standalone devices like the Oculus Go, but some comfort like wireless could be sacrificed for improved usability.</p> <p>I want that each slave VR Headset automatically searches the network for a master remote, so it can poll to download new videos from it. After all slaves have the video file it can be started from the remote to run on all devices simultaneously.</p> <p>Which VR Headset brands are best used to design such an app? Many seem especially restricive about booting into a 3rd party app by default. Any recommendations?</p>

Most open VR Headsets for developers

<p>I solved it with a combination of the following devices:</p> <ul> <li>Extron SMX 44 USB</li> <li>Extron SW4 USB Plus</li> </ul> <p>The price was high but still okay buying used devices.</p> <p>It turned out the device emulation (keyboard and mouse) is not a problem in my case, it even helped!</p>

12815

2020-01-29T10:48:38.143

|usb|

<p>I am looking for a device which is able to route at least six arbitrary USB 2.0 inputs to at least six arbitrary USB 2.0 outputs (6x6 matrix). It should have an interface like ethernet or RS-232 to control the routing. There should be <em>no device emulation</em> like KVM switches do, the simpler the better.</p> <p>So far the only device I found which meets my needs is the 8x8 matrix switch <a href="http://smartavi.com/mu-88/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Smart-AVI MU-88</a>.</p> <p>Unfortunately, the price of the device is far too much for the budget of my (private) project. Are there any cheaper devices with the same or at least nearly the same features?</p>

Cheap 6x6 (or better) USB 2.0 matrix switch

<p>I've successfully written and ran a Qt/QML application (albeit with a simple interface) on a custom baseboard for the CM3 running Raspbian Lite without X. Not through framebuffer but using the VC <code>.so</code>s provided for the Pi. If you used framebuffer on the Pi you likely used Qt without hardware acceleration. Qt has a separate QPA backend using VC libraries directly.</p> <p>There are alternatives, but they are usually development kits and SoMs with their carrier boards rather then SBCs. Those are targeted at professionals who design custom devices with such processors.</p> <p>You can for example look at <a href="https://www.toradex.com/computer-on-modules/apalis-arm-family/nxp-freescale-imx-6#overview" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Toradex i.MX 6 Quad SoM</a> which is a Qt reference platform. They have <a href="https://www.toradex.com/blog/building-custom-embedded-linux-distributions" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Yocto support too</a>. The SoM with it's carrier board will set you back about 200 euro though.</p> <p>The official <a href="https://www.nxp.com/design/development-boards/i.mx-evaluation-and-development-boards/sabre-board-for-smart-devices-based-on-the-i.mx-6quad-applications-processors:RD-IMX6Q-SABRE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i.MX 6Quad Sabre board</a> is 450$. And that's for SoCs which tend to be on the cheaper end of the range for their performance point.</p> <p>Apart from the i.MX there are other series of SoCs which you can look at with their own SoMs and devkits, such as:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/products/evaluation-tools/product-evaluation-tools/mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-mcu-mpu-eval-tools/stm32-discovery-kits/stm32mp157a-dk1.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">STM32MP1</a>, though those are new SoCs on the market and historically their MCU (ST didn't have MPUs on the market for quite some time) code quality was not satisfactory for me</li> <li>The <a href="https://beagleboard.org/bone" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Beaglebone series</a>, they have weak CPUs but some quick Google suggests people have successfully ran Qt with QML on them (although the most powerful, BeagleBone AI, has no Yocto support as far as my searches indicated). Or other Texas Instruments processors in general.</li> </ul> <p>The cheapest option would be the BeagleBone Black which is also the only hobbyist/maker board which has a chance of fulfilling your requirements that I know of.</p> <p>Apart from the Pi's BCM2 every other SoC mentioned above has full documentation available (I often compare BCM283x's measly 150 pages to total 6k pages of datasheet+manual of the Sitara SoC found in the Beaglebone).</p> <p>Lastly, there is a lot of maker boards with Allwinner or Rokchip SoCs but those are not fully open AFAIK.</p> <p>Source: general knowledge gathered from working professionally with embedded systems (both Linux and MCUs).</p>

12819

2020-01-30T08:24:03.540

|linux|embedded-systems|

<p>I'm looking for an alternative for RPi4 that seems not ready (yet?) to run run Qt/QML applications on framebuffer using hw acceleration. A lot of people have the same problems but no ones provide answers, so I'm afraid there's no much interest on both sides (Qt and RPi) to make the stuff available.</p> <p>I need a board with the following features:</p> <ul> <li><strong>run Qt5/QML applications without X, with GPU acceleration to play FullHD video</strong> - hopefully with QtMultimedia</li> <li>same GPU acceleration available for omxplayer (or another player that supports remote commands, transparency, etc...)</li> <li>Ethernet</li> <li>USB</li> <li>a couple of GPIO</li> <li>support for Buildroot config / Yocto meta-layers</li> </ul>

Embedded board for Qt/QML

<p>Here is a simplified explanation of each specification and their effect:</p> <p><strong>Wide Color Gamut (WCG)</strong>: This simply is a qualitative measure of the number of colors the LCD display can use as opposed to the standard <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rec._709" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Rec.709</a> gamut. This generally means more vibrant colors, as opposed to a standard display. This is because:</p> <ol> <li>The color palette itself bigger.</li> <li>It uses a higher bit depth (8bit, 10bit, etc.), which signifies how many steps of each color a TV has available.</li> </ol> <p>You should use a LCD display with a WCG for a better picture and color fidelity. If this isn't necessary then go for a standard Rec.709 gamut. </p> <p><strong>White variation</strong>: It is the difference in luminance of the LCD at different spots of the LCD screen. Refer to this note: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiE19.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiE19.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Thus, a higher white variation means difference in the white brightness in individual spots of a fixed viewing angle. This should be the lowest possible for visual accuracy. </p> <p><strong>Haze</strong>: This refers to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haze_(optics)#Reflection_Haze" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Reflective Haze</a>. Haze is the measure of how much reflections are diffused. A higher haze rating usually means an anti-glare coating which is increasingly matte. This generally makes colors less pop out, but with a decrease in reflections. Here is a comparison picture of different levels of haze and the effects on reflections and color: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/viHH7l.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/viHH7l.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Generally, under high ambient light, a higher haze is better for increased readability and visual acuity. If there is little chance of reflections or no ambient light is needed, then the haze percentage doesn't need a higher than 25%, which increases apparent color accuracy. </p>

12824

2020-01-31T20:10:14.157

|laptop|displays|

<p>I am not sure I truly understand what these specs mean for a laptop LCD matrix:</p> <ul> <li>Wide color gamut</li> <li>White variation</li> <li>"Haze" 44%</li> </ul> <p>Which values are better when picking a screen?</p>

Laptop matrix parameters like wide color gamut, white variation, haze?

<p>Display brightness should be in the specs as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Candela_per_square_metre" rel="nofollow noreferrer">nits</a> or candelas per square metre (symbol: cd/m2). Each model offered you should have a specifications page or document on the Internet you can reference, if not printed in the device manual. Look for the lower number in the range of nits from lower to higher.</p> <p>Alternatively, <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=computer%20screen%20polarizing%20filter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">polarizing computer display filters</a> are inexpensive and easy to add to nearly any display. </p>

12826

2020-02-01T11:07:55.000

|monitors|displays|

<p>on my monitor now I'm on 0% brightness and during the day it's ok for me, but at night is much too bright, and <strong>I don't know at what specs to look at when buying a new monitor that will be able to get much lower brightness</strong>.</p> <hr> <p>I switched from a sony vaio laptop with TN screen to a MVA monitor (Benq EW2430) and 0% brightness is ok for me during the day, but sometimes, evening/night I need it much lower brightness. I'm trying to pick a new monitor but I don't know how to choose one so that it would be able to provide a much lower brightness lower boundary.</p> <p>It will also be nice if I could control the monitor brightness from windows 10 right side bar (that you open when clicking button next to the clock), like with laptops, in my current one I can control the brightness only by touching the monitor physical buttons.</p> <p><strong>please note:</strong> I can change the brightness in the video card settings but it's not the same as actually lowering monitor brightness, I would prefer to buy a new monitor</p>

how to pick a lower brightness monitor

<p>my choice for the specifications that you made has got to be blu vivo XL5</p>

12829

2020-02-02T17:09:34.370

|android|smartphones|

<p><strong>Idk if this is the right site to ask, correct me if im wrong :)</strong></p> <p>I'm about to change my iPhone 5S to some android based phone. My budget is about 150$. I'm from Belarus, so that might affect what phones are available for me. I'm looking at a Redmi Note 7 for around $130 dollars. I was wondering if there are better phones out there that would work for what I need. I am okay with getting a used phone also. </p> <p>The phone should be &lt;=6.2", with fingerprint sensor ofc, and a good battery life</p> <p>The phone needs to be comfortable for me to use, 4G capabilities (Don't want to downgrade in download/upload speeds)</p>

Budget android phone to upgrade to from an iPhone 5S

<p>There is always a use for more RAM. I always suggest getting the most possible. All depends on the budget. </p> <p>As for the bare minimum I'd recommend: 16GB of RAM</p> <ul> <li>Xcode Studio: 8GB recommended </li> <li>Android Studio : 8 GB recommended</li> <li>Laravel: 4GB or more</li> </ul> <p>16GB of RAM is the base spec of the Macbook Pro 16. Which is good enough for most people. Unless you run Xcode, Android Studio and Laravel all at the same time (which would probably kill your CPU anyways), you should never have issues with lack of RAM. </p>

12832

2020-02-03T02:02:23.543

|laptop|android|web-development|virtual-machines|apple|

<p>New to programming and current development environment is on an iMac (schools). Looking at purchasing a Mac Book Pro 16 inch and I have been able to research all of the other hardware questions I had but how much RAM is actually needed. I will be developing apps in Xcode and Android Studio using emulators, as well as some VM's for Laravel projects. The iMac is from 2013 and doesn't run great so I can't really use that as a baseline. Key points, I'm not looking to waste money on memory that I won't use, for future-proofing only looking at a 2-3 year commitment, and other than using Xcode I know PCs are cheaper but I prefer Mac's setup.</p>

Purchasing a Mac Book Pro 16 inch, trying to figure out how much RAM I will need

<p>I've been using the Logitech G933 for almost a year now, and it's been answering my requirements.</p> <ol> <li>Wireless, with a USB dongle that's as small as many bluetooth dongles (Less than 2 inches).</li> <li>Detachable microphone on the headset, as well as a button to turn the microphone on and off. The microphone's connection to the headset seems like a standard 3.5mm, but I haven't tested replacing it. One flaw is that it has a &quot;flexible&quot; handle that seems to keep going back to the straight position, no matter how many times I try to bend it towards my mouth. It's hearing range is quite tight, so putting it near my mouth is a must to be heard clearly.</li> <li>Excellent sound quality, as far as my ears can tell. Can use it to play games, listen to music, watch videos, and not feel anything off.</li> <li>Same as 3. The microphone has no effect on the sound quality, and is actually at a semi-decent quality itself.</li> <li>Sound quality is crisp, even at a long distance. At worst, I had mild sound cut-offs while on a different floor from the dongle, but no noise.</li> <li>Unfortunately, it does have auto-off if silent for a while. But it doesn't lose sync with the dongle, and there's a physical on-off button on the headphone itself, so it takes only a second to turn it back on. It's better to be charging it rather than wearing it when not listening to anything, anyway.</li> <li>I've very rarely encountered running out of battery, but the USB-C charging port can be used while listening, with no issues, other than the cable getting in my face. The port is only for charging, so you can just as easily connect it to a computer or a wall socket USB charger. The charging port is on the left ear, which may or may not matter depending on whether the nearest USB port is on your left or right. Using a magnetic USB-C charging cable (bought separately) makes the process of setting the headphones for charging, and picking them up, extremely smooth and fast, as well.</li> <li>The pieces of plastic that hold the earphones extension mechanism are not durable enough to hold the weight of the earphones. Depending on how you hold the headphones they may break. However, since it's just a piece of plastic, they can be easily reinforced with duck-tape or rubber band, or anything else that's slightly more durable, and the problem is solved. The important thing is that the electronics are durable, and even with the plastic piece breaking, the headphones continue to work perfectly fine. Also, only that small plastic piece broke, while everything else, like band or ear cushioning, isn't showing even mild signs of wear. So, despite being a fragile Logitech product, it's been holding up reasonably well.</li> <li>Haven't noticed any issues with the volume balance.</li> </ol>

12845

2020-02-05T05:11:54.867

|wireless|audio|headphones|headset|microphones|

<p>After trying multiple headsets, earphones, and any other shape of wireless audio device, with issues each time, I realized I have two choices:</p> <ol> <li>To spend another $40,000 dollars in the hope of finding the one perfect headset.</li> <li>Get a decent recommendation from someone who already owns one.</li> </ol> <p>So here I am. My requirements are, I would have thought, simple. But surprisingly rare in practice:</p> <ol> <li>Wireless. Duh. Should connect to a PC, so USB dongle or base station is okay.</li> <li>Has a microphone. On the headset, not the dongle/base station.</li> <li>Sounds better than a radio.</li> <li>Sounds better than a radio while using the microphone. Seems like a "duh", but this pretty much rules out all Bluetooth-based devices, except those using proprietary technology like FastStream.</li> <li>No white noise or buzzing when the audio output is silent. I don't constantly have sound playing, and I don't want to have to take my headset on and off depending on my sound usage at the moment. This tends to rule out many RF-based ones, which seem to have mild white noise when the audio is silent.</li> <li>No auto-off. This rules out pretty much all European ones, since EU regulations require broadcast stations to turn off after 5 minutes of silence. But like I said above, I don't listen non-stop, and I don't want to hack an inaudible sound just to prevent my headset from shutting off.</li> <li>Can listen while charging. I don't always remember to charge my headset, and the last thing I want is a forced 15 minute break from my computer, because the headset automatically turns off as soon as it's connected via USB (Why is this even a thing!?)</li> <li>Reasonably durable. Should last at least several months before breaking. Again, I too would have thought this was obvious, but <em>cough</em> Creative <em>cough</em> Logitech <em>cough</em>.</li> <li>Both ear pieces can produce audio at the same volume out of the box. I mean, I don't see how that would be a "feature", but my recently owned Creative Outlier Sports couldn't produce half the volume with the right ear piece as the left, so...</li> </ol> <p>I'm not particular about the shape, but if it's in-ear, I'd rather drivers that are less than 5mm, so they actually fit in the ear canal. If over-ear, I'd prefer material that doesn't gradually disintegrate, leaving pieces of itself everywhere.</p> <p>Unfortunately, most of the "features" I'm looking for don't appear in technical specs, and some of them are hard to find even in user reviews. I'm tired of gambling (and losing), so I'd really appreciate if someone can confirm owning a headset that satisfies all of the above.</p>

Looking for a simple wireless headset with microphone

<p>Performance will be limited by the <a href="https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/solutions/pd015812" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SATA-II drive interface</a> designed for the original HDD, so spending extra money on high performance SSDs would be a waste.</p> <p>The aforementioned Samsung and Crucial SSDs do have a good reputation. If you are buying to use it with Windows, make sure the manufacturer includes a free <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T." rel="nofollow noreferrer">S.M.A.R.T.</a> diagnostic app to work with your version of Windows.</p>

12846

2020-02-05T08:01:37.237

|ssd|

<p>I want to upgrade my Lenovo <a href="https://support.lenovo.com/us/en/solutions/pd015812" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thinkpad x220</a> with an SSD, but I'm not sure how much storage capacity I should target, maybe around 200-300 GB should be sufficient.</p> <p>What product do you recommend?</p> <p>Thanks</p>

What's the most recommended SSD for a Lenovo thinkpad x220?

<p>Back cover is quite vague. The LCD back cover? It isn't compatible: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eI4Cm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8eI4Cm.jpg" alt="x250"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9k8ym.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9k8ym.jpg" alt="X260"></a></p> <p>The antenna placement isn't the same. Also, the hinge isn't the correct type.</p> <p>If you are talking about the back (bottom cover), it isn't compatible either: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJBUTm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJBUTm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/232Uum.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/232Uum.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The USB ports are not all at the same location. </p>

12860

2020-02-07T02:39:43.663

|laptop|wireless|displays|

<p>I have to fix a Thinkpad X250 back cover that's cracked. I have on hand a X260 back cover, but would have to order one for the X250. </p> <p>From various product pages I see hints that X240/X250 use the same exact back cover, while the X260 is not mentioned. </p> <p>Can anyone advise?</p>

Thinkpad X250 to X260 back cover compatibility?

<p>I went the Q9650 route and maxed out the ram and bought an MSI Geforce GT1030 GPU and less than $200 my 15 year old HP pavilion has received a new lease on life, it handles Valorant and other online games just fine (Not triple A games though). (I upgraded the Power supply to a 450W earlier so it isn't the original one).</p>

12865

2020-02-08T10:16:25.713

|processor|gaming|pc|upgrade|

<p>I've never planned to upgrade my CPU. However, most of the components in my PC have been upgraded, and the CPU is now the performance bottleneck. It doesn't flinch except for gaming where it is maxed out, while the GPU still have quite a way to go before being maxed out.</p> <p>The Intel CPU is the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/29765/intel-core-2-quad-processor-q6600-8m-cache-2-40-ghz-1066-mhz-fsb.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Core 2 Quad Q6600</a> and is now worth 10$ on ebay. In the same Intel CPU family, there is the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/35428/intel-core-2-quad-processor-q9650-12m-cache-3-00-ghz-1333-mhz-fsb.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Core 2 Quad Q9650</a> at around 20$.</p> <p>So for around 10$ net, I could switch from <em>2.4 GHz</em> to <em>3 GHz</em>. This is quite cheap to upgrade, but I'm clueless as to how much better it would be. Also, there might be some other potential compatible models that I'm unaware of because I don't know what I should look at to know if a CPU is compatible or not with the <a href="https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01324212" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pegatron-made</a> <a href="https://mobilespecs.net/motherboard/Pegatron/Pegatron_Benicia_1-01.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Benicia 1.01</a>. I'm guessing CPUs released today don't fit anymore.</p> <p>According to pc-specs, the CPU socket for the Pegatron Benicia 1.01 is <a href="http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-Intel_(chipsets)/index.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BGA 1023</a>. Does that means that any CPU with this socket is compatible?</p> <ul> <li>Is there even suitable upgrade candidate?</li> <li>If so, what compatible CPU would be a significant upgrade?</li> <li>If there are, what should I look at to know if they are compatible or not?</li> <li>I would have used a compatibility sites to find out, but all of those I've tried aren't even aware of the motherboard because it is so old.... Those who did recommended some crazy up to date CPU which instantly made me suspicious of their credibility...</li> </ul> <p>I know there are many questions here, but hopefully these questions will help understand the needs.</p>

CPU upgrade on motherboard Pegatron Benicia 1.01?

<p><strong>=&gt; Nvidia RTX 3060 Ti</strong></p> <p>I am using it, excellent in gaming and decent enough for VR experience.</p>

12871

2020-02-09T16:53:30.457

|graphics-cards|vr-headset|

<p>What Graphics Card (GPU) would give me the best bang for the buck to use with a Valve Index VR Headset? </p> <p>I don't want to spend more money than I need, but I don't want the VR experience to suffer either.</p> <p>Would I notice any difference between the Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 and the RTX 2070?<br> Or would a Graphics Card like <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N2060OC-6GD-rev-20#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 OC Rev2 HDMI 3xDP 6GB</a> do?</p> <p>Any tips from someone with experience from using a Valve Index VR Headset with any of these graphics cards?</p>

A Graphics Card for an excellent experience with a Valve Index VR

<p>My main computer (at it now) is an i7-2600k. I built it myself, installed Windows 7 Ultimate, and have run it for years. It's getting old, but I still love it. Best home computer I've ever built or owned.</p> <p>However, I completely disagree with @Natsu. The i7-2600k is not a server CPU: <li>It does not support ECC nor Registered (Buffered) RAM, the Xeon does (winner).</li> <li>The Xeon uses DDR2 while the i7 uses DDR3 (winner), but both at 1333MHz.</li> <li>The i7 will forever be alone, the Xeon comes with a mate (winner). Why? Your anticipated server software stack (Ubuntu + Django + nginx + postgresql) will benefit greatly from the second CPU. Most software we run on home computers often doesn't need or can't use a second CPU effectively, but your server software should utilize as many cores you can throw at it.</li> <li>The i7 is top of the line, which means end of the road. You can upgrade the E5420 to dual X5450 @ 3.0GHz for less than $20 each (winner).</li></p> <p>Now, this is assuming you are getting ECC RDIMM memory with the Xeon setup, and the motherboard supports the X5450 (it should, same CPU family). If not, then you aren't getting a true server, but rather a glorified home computer. I build and use both types of machines, "home/small business" desktops and full-on enterprise servers. The difference in memory is worth it if you want reliability. What is the difference? You know those random crashes, lockups, or errors that just don't make any sense? Unrecoverable memory errors are often the cause, and with Non-ECC Unbuffered RAM, they occur about once a month, while with ECC Buffered RAM, they happen about once a year. Power issues, heat, sunspots, proximity to nearest nuclear power plant, and many other factors affect these rates, but that's about average, 1/mo vs 1/yr.</p> <p>Make sure to get a server chassis, not some Rosewill or Corsair case, if up time is important to you. Multiple hot-swap fans, dual hot-swap power supplies, hot-swap drive bays, out-of-band management, all contribute to the qualities that make a server a server.</p> <p>I buy HP Proliant DL380 G6's: 4x 1Gbps NICs + iLO mgmt port, 6Gbps SAS RAID controller w/512MB cache, 2x 72GB 10k SAS drives, 2x450W hotswap power supplies, 2x E5504 Quad core 2.0GHz, 8GB DDR3 ECC RDIMM @ 1333, for $85.</p> <p>I can upgrade to 2x X5660 Hexa-core @ 2.8GHz for $50, and put in 8x 146GB 15k SAS drives in RAID10 (584GB yield) for $80 (refurbished). Memory prices constantly change, but right now 2x 8GB ECC RDIMMs is $25, so $300 will max out the machine w/24 sticks for 192GB RAM.</p> <p>Add misc. cords, some more RAM, rails, spare parts, tax, shipping, $300-$400 total for a great little server. Since I'm buying refurbished, I like to keep 25% replacement on-hand: I get 2 extra drives for every array of 8 (one server), and 1 extra power supply for every 2 servers (each having 2 PS in them). In over three years, I've had one drive die (RAID10, so I swapped it out, no problem), one motherboard die (when we moved to a new building, hmmmm...) and no power supply, CPU, NIC, or memory problems.</p> <p>I don't know where you are or what's available to you, but my advice is this: If you need a server, buy a server. These 10 year old HP's do a great job on the cheap, and they are but one possibility.</p>

12876

2020-02-10T17:45:03.063

|processor|server|

<p>I'm about to buy a server, for a Django system (Ubuntu + Django + nginx + postgresql) I have two options:   <code>Dual Intel Xeon 5420 16GB DDR2 240GB SSD</code> or <code>I7-2600 16GB DDR3 240GB SSD</code></p> <p>Which of these setups would you recommend?</p>

Server: Dual Intel Xeon 5420 vs I7-2600

<p>It is not the heat flow (aka Watt) that makes CPUs like the I7-9900K(F) run rather hot, but the high heat flow density (Watt/m²). These chips are pretty small. Hence the limiting factor is heat transfer from the CPU die towards the coldplate and into the water, not heat dissipation of the radiator.<br> A 240mm radiator is more than capable of dissipating the heat flow from these CPUs, there will be little to no difference compared to a 360mm radiator, provided CPU block and water pump are the same. If 2-3 degrees are worth the investment to you, then go for a 360mm radiator. Otherwise, 240mm is enough.</p>

12884

2020-02-11T15:50:43.553

|processor|gaming|cooling|

<p>I plan on building a high end gaming PC this summer with these specs:</p> <p>CPU: Intel Core i9-9900KF GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Super RAM: Corsair DDR4 64GB (4x16 GB) at 3000mhz Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 LGA1151 SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 1TB M.2 HDD: WD Black 6TB 7200rpm 3.5” PSU: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold Case: Thermaltake V100</p> <p>I have a ‘Be Quiet Dark Rock Slim’ CPU Cooler, but I want to put an AIO Cooler in the build. I am worried that my i9-9900kf will run too hot, and won’t allow proper cooling if I want to overclock the CPU. I have space in my desktop case for a 3 Fan or a 2 Fan AIO Cooler. I want to know if I would see any temperature difference in the two fan AIO cooler vs a three fan AIO cooler at base and turbo clock speeds. I am still indecisive on what AIO cooler I want since I haven’t done good research in the AIO cooler market.</p>

Two fan vs Three fan IAO Cooler

<p>To get the data from this controller you will need one of these cables:</p> <p><a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Replacement-Bradley-Micrologix-Programming-1761-CBL-PM02/dp/B07FK96F2Z/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/146-1801831-4991467?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07FK96F2Z&amp;pd_rd_r=5167b084-1efc-46ef-bda7-4fb7bc33a622&amp;pd_rd_w=NhG8g&amp;pd_rd_wg=VaYPh&amp;pf_rd_p=74b54c94-7195-4620-ba51-7d167ac58a58&amp;pf_rd_r=T87VMJVTBVH1NA6RCC5P&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=T87VMJVTBVH1NA6RCC5P" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Amazon -serial port</a> ------------------------------------------------------------<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Bradley-Micrologix-Programming-USB-1761-CBL-PM02/dp/B007J2XQ6W" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB- Amazon</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdZX7m.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdZX7m.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF75jm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF75jm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>And the software. The software you need will be called <a href="https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&amp;client=firefox-b-d&amp;ei=T0RFXsy6HsKp_Qbp0ZXQBg&amp;q=rslinx%20classic%20lite&amp;oq=rslinx%20classic%20lite&amp;gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l8j0i333l2.9329.15161..15309...0.2..0.117.884.8j2......0....2j1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i67j0i273j0i10.ha2fRlGKy7U&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiMntjsxs7nAhXCVN8KHeloBWoQ4dUDCAo&amp;uact=5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RSLinx (Classic) Lite</a>. This is the only one that can connect physically to this device.</p>

12889

2020-02-12T15:06:47.500

|usb|

<p>First off my apologies if this in the wrong forum, I'm not quite sure where to post this. My boss is asking me to pull data (if possible) from the device in the picture below but I have no idea what wire goes into this. Perhaps one that could connect to a USB? I was hoping someone here would know what it's called and/or have any info about it. Thank you. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEN6g.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEN6g.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

Wire for old device

<p><strong>1.Realme X2 Pro</strong></p> <p>The Realme X2 Pro is the cheapest phone with 90Hz display in India right now. apart from the headlining refresh rate feature, it also packs Snapdragon 855 Plus chipset, a 6.5-inch Fluid AMOLED Full-HD+ screen, and among the highest fast-charging tech in the industry. The Realme X2 Pro is a first-ever flagship offering from the brand, designed to take on the likes of the Redmi K20 Pro and OnePlus 7T.</p> <p><strong>2.Nubia Red Magic 3s</strong></p> <p>Next in the list of phones with 90Hz screen is nubia’s gaming-focused Red Magic 3s smartphone. The handset is an iterative upgrade from the Red Magic 3 smartphone, which was introduced earlier this year. The Red Magic 3s sports a 6.65-inch Super AMOLED display that bears 90Hz refresh rate, DC dimming, HDR support, and full-HD+ (1,080p) resolution.</p> <p><strong>3.ASUS ROG Phone 2</strong></p> <p>This gaming-focused phone has 120Hz refresh rate display. The ASUS ROG Phone 2 features a 6.59-inch AMOLED display with 120Hz refresh rate and 240Hz touch sampling. The screen has fair amounts of bezels that houses front-firing speakers for an immersive gaming experience. To take care of that high refresh rate, the ROG Phone 2 houses an astounding 6,000mAh battery with 30W fast charging support.</p> <p><strong>4.Google Pixel 4 series</strong></p> <p>Although the Pixel 4 series is not coming to India, it’s one of the smartphones out there to sport 90Hz screens. Both the Pixel 4 and Pixel 4 XL sports display with a high refresh rate. The handsets are the latest flagships from Google that comes running Android 10 out of the box and features dual rear cameras with a dedicated telephoto lens.</p> <p><strong>5.OPPO Reno Ace</strong></p> <p>The OPPO Reno Ace is the first smartphone from the brand with 90Hz screen. OPPO has introduced the handset only in China so far. It’s a mid-range offering that sports a 6.5-inch 1080p OLED display that bears refresh rate of up to 90Hz refresh rate and 135Hz sampling rate for a smooth experience. The screen also features a waterdrop notch that accommodates selfie camera and optical fingerprint scanner for biometrics.</p> <p><strong>6.Samsung Galaxy S10 Lite</strong></p> <p>Key Specs</p> <p>Android v10 (Q)</p> <p>Performance(Excellent) Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core) Snapdragon 855 8 GB RAM</p> <p>Display(Very Good) 6.7 inches (17.02 cm) 1080x2400 px, 393 PPI Super AMOLED Plus</p> <p>Camera(Excellent) 48 MP + 12 MP + 5 MP Triple Primary Cameras LED Flash 32 MP Front Camera, No Front Flash Battery(Very Good)</p> <p>4500 mAh Fast Charging USB Type-C port</p> <p><strong>7.Redmi K20 Pro</strong></p> <p>Key Specs Android v9.0 (Pie)</p> <p>Performance(Excellent)</p> <p>Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core) Snapdragon 855 8 GB RAM</p> <p>Display(Very Good) 6.39 inches (16.23 cm) 1080x2340 px, 403 PPI AMOLED</p> <p>Camera(Very Good) 48 MP + 13 MP + 8 MP Triple Primary Cameras Dual LED Flash 20 MP Front Camera</p> <p>Battery(Very Good) 4000 mAh Quick Charging 4.0 USB Type-C port</p> <p><strong>8.Asus 6Z</strong></p> <p>Key Specs Android v9.0 (Pie)</p> <p>Performance(Excellent) Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core) Snapdragon 855 6 GB RAM</p> <p>Display(Good) 6.4 inches (16.26 cm) 1080x2340 px, 403 PPI IPS LCD</p> <p>Camera(Very Good) 48 MP + 13 MP Dual Primary Cameras Dual LED Flash 48 MP + 13 MP Dual Front Cameras, Dual LED Battery(Excellent)</p> <p>5000 mAh Quick Charging 4.0 USB Type-C port</p> <p><strong>9.Black Shark 2</strong></p> <p>Key Specs Android v9.0 (Pie)</p> <p>Performance(Excellent) Octa core (2.84 GHz, Single Core + 2.42 GHz, Tri core + 1.8 GHz, Quad core) Snapdragon 855 12 GB RAM</p> <p>Display(Very Good) 6.39 inches (16.23 cm) 1080x2340 px, 403 PPI AMOLED</p> <p>Camera(Very Good) 48 MP + 12 MP Dual Primary Cameras LED Flash 20 MP Front Camera</p> <p>Battery(Very Good) 4000 mAh Quick Charging 4.0 USB Type-C port</p> <p><strong>Hopefully These Phones May Fullfill Your Requirements.</strong></p>

12897

2020-02-13T08:01:57.467

|smartphones|

<p>I'm looking for a new smartphone to replace my aging OnePlus 6. I tried replacing it so far with...</p> <ul> <li>A OnePlus 7T Pro - Screen was waaay too curved. Front camera too slow for FaceID, In-Screen fingerprint sensor too slow for fingerprint ID.</li> <li>A OnePlus 7T - almost perfect, but the screen was very un-uniform at low brightness</li> <li>A Galaxy S10, which killed its glass front after a mild drop thanks to the curved screen and horribly designed silicon case</li> </ul> <p>My requirements are:</p> <ul> <li>No curved screen</li> <li>90+ Hz display</li> <li>Contemporary processor, SnapDragon 855 or better / comparable</li> <li>Camera doesn't matter</li> <li>Fingerprint sensor, but not In-Display</li> <li>OR In-Display fingerprint sensor, but a conventional front-facing camera (not mechanized)</li> <li>Android, with bonus points for not losing warranty when rooted.</li> </ul> <p>I've found a few promising devices so far - I like the Nubia Red Magic 3S, but it seems to be hard to source in Germany. Price doesn't really matter, but should be adequate for the performance.</p>

Smartphone recommendation

<p>Unfortunately it does not appear that your board can support a TB3 add-in card. The reason for this is because it does not have a THB_C port.</p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0722SV69N" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSI X99S SLI PLUS Specifications</a></p> <p>Here are some examples of add-in cards that are compatible with motherboards that have a THB_C port:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0722SV69N" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte GC-Alpine Ridge</a></li> <li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B072JD1WWK" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asrock Thunderbolt 3 AIC</a></li> <li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01HDUVJ54" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS ThunderboltEX 3</a></li> </ul>

12907

2020-02-14T13:34:41.057

|motherboard|thunderbolt|

<p>After having my questions closed as off-topic on <a href="https://superuser.com">superuser.com</a>, I'm trying my luck here:</p> <p>I currently have an MSI X99S SLI Plus motherboard (5-6 years old) which I'd like to keep, but I'd like to add Thunderbolt 3 connectivity to my PC (mainly for connecting a modern low-latency audio interface).</p> <ol> <li>How can this be achieved, if it's even possible at all?</li> <li>If it is possible to use an adapter/add-on card with this motherboard (which has no TB3 connector), what are the downsides compared to a motherboard with built-in TB3 connectivity (stability/latency/driver-wise)?</li> </ol> <p><em>Edit to make sure it's on-topic here:</em></p> <p>I'm looking for a <strong>recommendation</strong> for a specific <strong>hardware</strong> product that will allow me to connect a TB3 external audio device to my PC, if such product exists.</p>

add Thunderbolt 3 connectivity to MSI X99S SLI Plus

<p>If your QR code is small enough (64x64 pixels max, so version 11) you can use an OLED display driven by a SSH1106 or SSD 1136. They can be controlled over I2C or SPI and don't draw a lot of power. Biggest drawback is that most are a bit small, maximum QR code size is 14.7x14.7 mm.</p> <p>They sell for about US$2.50</p>

12917

2020-02-16T22:04:06.200

|displays|

<p>I am looking to build an application that needs to display a QR code, and I want to minimize the cost of it.</p> <p>I just need a preferably square display, capable of displaying a simple QR code with a short url, nothing more.</p> <p>Can anyone recommend me something that is as cheap as possible? Thanks</p>

Low resolution display for QR Codes

<p>There are a number of binary clock designs on <a href="https://www.instructables.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Instructables</a>, as well as a few binary watch models. Due to a sign-on requirement for searches, the above link now goes only to Instructables. Use &quot;binary watch&quot; in the search box for the same results, or go to <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Binary-Wrist-Watch/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the instructable with this result</a>:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QcwD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4QcwD.jpg" alt="binary wrist watch" /></a></p> <p>One great aspect of Instructables is that you can begin with a post you like and modify it to meet your requirements.</p>

12933

2020-02-20T16:20:59.723

|microcontroller|led|

<p>I am looking for a type of digital watch where hours and minutes would show as binary, e.g. with an LED on for a 1 and off for a 0. So 12:30 would show as:</p> <pre> 1100:011110 </pre> <p>(since <code>12 = 1*8 + 1*4 + 0*2 + 0</code>, and <code>30 = 0*32 + 1*16 + 1*8 + 1*4 + 1*2 + 0*1</code>). With lights, it would give:</p> <pre> ** : **** </pre> <p>It would both be fun and useful training for finding patterns and reading in binary. Ideally it would switch from endian-ness, big or little.</p> <p>I have found items advertised as "binary digital watch" which have an LED next to an hour or a minute, but I want a watch only in binary.</p> <p>I imagine it would be feasible with a microcontroller like a microbit or Arduino Nano and addressable LEDs.</p> <p>Does it already exist, or has anyone built something similar?</p>

Binary digital watch

<p>The TDP of an i5-8269U is 28 watt.</p> <p>TDP = thermal design power = most power cpu will draw when running @ 100% = one of the best ways to gauge a CPU's impact regarding power draw.</p> <p><a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/137980/intel-core-i5-8269u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-4-20-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/137980/intel-core-i5-8269u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-4-20-ghz.html</a></p> <blockquote> <p>if I use... for general purpose... is there a countable battery draining time?</p> </blockquote> <p>probably not.</p> <p>General purpose use will rarely get cpu usage high; would kind of have to define what you mean by "general purpose use".</p> <p>The i5-8269 is an <em>8th-generation Intel Core i5</em>. You mention <em>the #1 is the base 13' mac: 1.4GHz quad-core 8th-generation Intel Core i5 processor</em> but do not specify the CPU model number. In any case if both CPU's are an 8-gen cpu then <strong>for general purpose use</strong> those CPU's are likely not run anywhere 100% thus they will typically down clock in frequency to save power. This is known as <em>frequency scaling</em> or <em>cpu throttling</em>.</p> <p>as I type this, the i7-6700k in my win10 desktop pc is a 4ghz cpu having TDP of 91 watt, but is currently only running at 0.8 ghz per CoreTemp, thus drawing very little power. Basically every late model cpu will operate this way, such that you shouldn't worry about power draw based on cpu <strong>for general purpose</strong> use. But if you game or crunch numbers then the cpu would draw extra power and reduce laptop battery life.</p> <p>If you have to choose between two cpu's, both being 8th-generation Intel Core i5, then choose the one having the highest base clock frequency. That will provide better performance whenever needed, which should be rarely because you said "general purpose use". Laptop cpu's are very good now at power management and it would be incorrect to assume or infer that a higher frequency cpu will <em>always</em> draw more power.</p>

12935

2020-02-21T14:54:14.937

|processor|battery-life|battery|

<p>I would like to buy a new laptop, and this issue appeared: <br /> If there is a notebook with 1.4 ghz proc, and there is an another with 2.6 ghz from the same serial, how this parameters related to the battery draining.<br /> I mean if I use the #1 for general purpose, and the #2 for general purpose, is there a countable battery draining time?</p>

Processor and battery relations

<p>Check if any of your display has a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_Display_Mounting_Interface" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Vesa Mount</a>. The mount itself uses 4 screws in a 75 or 100 mm square so you can use the screen in any orientation. 3rd party stands are easily available online, ranging from no-names to big brands like Dell or Iiyama. There are stands, wall mounts and desk edge mounts available. Most don't allow free rotation of the screen - you would need to unmount the screen and replace it into another orientation.</p> <p>Be warned though, I've had issues with cheap mounts sagging (the last vertical angle hinge).</p> <p>Also, two people are recommended for assembly.</p> <p>Since you listed your monitors in comments, the Dell E2218HN does have a mount, Dell even lists it as compatible on their <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-single-monitor-arm/apd/332-1235/monitors-monitor-accessories" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSA14 Single Monitor Arm Stand</a>. That one is mounted to the back edge of your desk. While expensive, this is just an example product and there are cheaper ones. There is also a <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/ergotech-dmrs-1-stand-for-lcd-display-steel-screen-size-13-inch-32-inch-desktop/apd/a9935252/monitors-monitor-accessories" rel="nofollow noreferrer">stand</a> but I am not 100% it will be high enough for you to mount a 22" vertically on it - it should be. The Phillips PHL 223v5 has a mount as well.</p> <p>Do note that TN displays (both your Dell and Phillips) don't have good vertical angles, regardless of manufacturer boasts. I have a 22" Iiyama which had pivot in factory stand, with supposed 160 degrees vertical and it still does not look good.</p>

12944

2020-02-23T12:14:52.553

|monitors|monitor-stand|

<p>I have three screens connected to my PC and I want to rotate one of them so that it's vertical. I'm not talking about rotating the image; I know I can do that in Display Preferences. I am talking about physically rotating the monitor itself.</p> <p>Unfortunately, none of my three screens have stands which would allow the user to pick if he wants to position the screen vertically or horizontally - only the horizontal placement is possible.</p> <p>However, this is not acceptable for me and I am looking for a way to bypass this. Is there an extra piece of equipment that can be strapped on to the monitor or the stand that would allow the monitor to be vertical?</p> <p>These are the screens that I have:</p> <ul> <li>Samsung S22B300</li> <li>Philips PHL 223V5</li> <li>Dell E2218HN</li> </ul>

How to rotate a monitor?

<p>I would recommend a membrane 3x4 keypad from adafruit, I Just bought one and the keys are really easy to press and the pinout is easy to understand.</p>

12965

2020-02-26T23:10:59.427

|keyboards|raspberry-pi|

<p>I’m developing kind of a POS system for my school cafe. It doesn’t need to work with payments, instead it works with the member system. The system will be running in Raspberry Pi and Python, connecting to the member system API.</p> <p>When a customer buys something, they enter their member number and that should go to a database with the amount they purchased. </p> <p>I want the customers to enter their number in a pin pad; however, I don’t know what pin pad I should use. I have read on Verifone and Ingenico pin pads but they require an encryption key by a merchant, but since we won’t be working with payments, security is not that essential. </p> <p>I thought about using keypads, but I can’t find one that includes a mini screen and is rugged enough for this type of application. I appreciate any suggestions on the matter, or if I’m better off going with a touchscreen for the Pi.</p> <p>Thank you!</p>

What Pin Pad for Raspberry Pi POS with no payments involved?

<p>Considering you are opting for a gaming phone here are some recommendations:</p> <ol> <li>Asus ROG Phone II(Recommended)</li> <li>RAZER PHONE 2</li> <li>Apple iPhone XR</li> <li>OnePlus 7T</li> <li>OnePlus 7 Pro</li> <li>XIAOMI BLACK SHARK 2</li> <li>Samsung Galaxy S10 Lite</li> <li>Nubia Red Magic 3s .... ....</li> </ol> <p>And many more!!</p>

12969

2020-02-27T12:02:10.000

|smartphones|

<p>Suggest me gaming phone with LCD display without notch and rounded corners. With custom ROMs available and dual sim.</p>

Suggest me gaming phone with LCD display without notch and rounded corners

<p>Your motherboard manufacturer Gigabyte <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/GA-F2A78M-HD2-rev-30/sp#sp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">recommends</a> a pair of matching DDR3 2400(OC)/2133/1866/1600/1333 MHz dual channel memory modules, up to 32 GB each. AMD Memory Profile (AMP)/ Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) memory modules are accepted.</p> <p>Gigabyte published a list of <a href="https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_ga-f2a75m-hd2_v.3.0_e.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">qualified memory modules</a> from 1 GB - 8GB in size for your review.</p>

12981

2020-02-29T07:32:29.680

|memory|

<p>I don't know it the image sbelow are too much info, or too little. Feel free to correct me.</p> <p>I have a desktop which I use only as a file serve/continuous backup.</p> <p>It is runnig slowly and I thought that could benefit from more RAM (agree, or do I need a new motehrboard?).</p> <p>It has 2 @ </p> <blockquote> <p>Capacity 4 GB<br> Manufacturer Kingston<br> Model 99U5584-005.A<br> Type DDR3 / PC3-12800 </p> </blockquote> <p>and two empty slots. I was thinking of adding 1 @ 8gB, which ought not to be too expensive &amp; see it perfomance improves.</p> <p>BUT, I can't find an exact match for the current RAM.</p> <p>What to do?</p> <ul> <li>new motherboard &amp; RAM? </li> <li>new, non-matching, but compatible RAM? Which? </li> <li>repalce all RAM? with what?</li> </ul> <hr> <p>I hope that this is enough info : </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyxOQ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyxOQ.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Rjst.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Rjst.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/havEn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/havEn.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dxViI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dxViI.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

What RAM can I use, to be compatible?

<p>You don't really need an upgrade in anything.</p> <p>The common mistake of beginners, that they think, having a bigger/larger/stronger computer is a requirement for doing things uncommon for ordinary computer users. It is not.</p> <p>I type this answer for you on a 2006 macbook running a 32-bit Linux. Although for development, I use mostly servers (these are <em>strong</em>) and laptops (these are roughly like yours).</p> <p>Not that is important, how strong is your computer, what is important, what do you develop on it.</p> <p>Furthermore, you have a strong laptop. It can't be really upgraded, because</p> <ul> <li>Laptops are not really modular (far lesser of its parts are changeable)</li> <li>it is already close to the top. You will need to invest a lot to get only a little improvement.</li> </ul> <p>We can formalize your specification so:</p> <ol> <li>You have the laptop specified in your question</li> <li>You have \$4k</li> <li>This is what you convert to the possible strongest laptop (for AI development).</li> </ol> <p>Then the answer is this: buy the costliest laptop from $4k and you will end up with two laptops. But you don't need this second laptop.</p> <p>Today, AI development means most likely by using the video card as a massively parallel CPU, thus this $4k laptop would likely need a strong GPU, if you would really need it.</p> <ul> <li>Learn languages (python, C++, what you have).</li> <li>Please, please, please try in your life once an OS what is not windows. It does not matter, what. The important thing is to understand, what an OS is doing, and that it is not only a GUI.</li> <li>If you have some academic connection, learn Latex.</li> <li>Refresh your Math and algorithm theory.</li> </ul> <p>You need these. Use a part of the $4k to buy AI books in the university book store (or rent them from the internet). Most internet sources are still nowhere to the quality of the paper books in an university book store (library). The current world works so, that you can learn a lot from the Internet - the difference between a graduate and an internet programmer is what can't be.</p>

12986

2020-03-01T06:53:35.243

|laptop|graphics-cards|processor|ssd|development|

<p>I'm currently looking to upgrade my current Samsung Ultrabook I got in 2013 to a new MacBook Pro 16" with the following specs:</p> <p>2.3GHz 8‑core 9th‑generation Intel Core i9 processor, Turbo Boost up to 4.8GHz 16GB 2666MHz DDR4 memory AMD Radeon Pro 5500M with 4GB of GDDR6 memory 1TB SSD storage</p> <p>I'll be using this MacBook Pro to dive into my software development and machine learning/AI career, and just wondering if these specs will be sufficient? I'm extremely unlearned in computer hardware, so I am unsure what exactly each spec might help me with, but if anyone would care to explain, it would be greatly appreciated.</p> <p>I'm wanting to keep the price tag lower than $4k.</p>

Hardware specifications for new laptop performing general software development and ML/DL experimentation?

<p>After a quick search, I found these battery devices:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-18w-power-bank-apollo-15-000/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XTORM 18W POWER BANK APOLLO 15.000</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-45w-power-bank-rover-20-000/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XTORM 45W POWER BANK ROVER 20.000</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-power-bank-apollo-15-000-lightning-/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XTORM POWER BANK APOLLO 15.000 (LIGHTNING)</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.xtorm.eu/en/shop/power-banks/xtorm-power-bank-rover-20-000-lightning-/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XTORM POWER BANK ROVER 20.000 (LIGHTNING)</a></li> <li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07DWLWLC9" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AIDEAZ Wireless Power Bank 20000mAh Portable Charger</a></li> </ul> <p>There are others <a href="https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/HM8X2ZM/A/mophie-powerstation-usb-c-3xl-battery" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mophie powerstation USB-C 3XL Battery</a> with one USB-C as output, and another one as input (in order to charge the PowerBank), I am not sure if that suits you: </p>

13000

2020-03-03T09:49:15.767

|power-bank|

<p>Are there power banks with two USB type C ports?<br> Preferably 20,000 mAH capacity, but 10,000 mAH would also be fine. </p> <p>I don't care about USB type A or micro USB ports.</p>

Power bank with two USB Type C ports?

<p>Any tablet with a 3.5mm four-pole TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) jack (socket) for headphone will also accept an external microphone. </p> <p>An external microphone will</p> <ul> <li>allow you to place the mic where it will work best </li> <li>allow you to move the microphone away from air ducts and other noise sources</li> <li>allow you to handle the tablet without thumps, scratches, and other noise conducted by the body of the tablet</li> </ul> <p>Some microphones are <a href="https://www.zalmar.com/detail-YBS_Categories-Dictation-LFH9171.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">directional</a>, to zero in on a particular person or group of persons; but even the cheapest external mic will almost always outperform a chassis mic.</p> <p>You may want a <a href="https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/528607-listen-technologies-la-436-ts-to-trtrs-mic-adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">breakout cable</a> (<a href="http://www.alzodigital.com/products/alzo-smartphone-3-5mm-trrs-break-out-y-splitter-cord-w-stereo-mono-mic-adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">another one</a>) with the 3.5mm TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) <a href="https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adafruit-industries-llc/2914/1528-2262-ND/7241507" rel="nofollow noreferrer">plug</a> to end in separate 3.5mm jacks for microphone plus earphone/headphone, if simultaneous earphone or headphone use is desired.</p>

13001

2020-03-03T11:21:32.043

|tablet|microphones|adaptive-technology|

<p>I'd like to find a solution for my grandpa who's severely hearing impaired to help him participating in the daily life. More specifically, I thought about an on-the-fly speech to text recognition with a very simple, large user interface on a tablet. Small enough to carry it around without bothering, but larger then a casual large mobile phone. </p> <p>I thought about a tablet with a good microphone in combination with <a href="https://ai.googleblog.com/2019/02/real-time-continuous-transcription-with.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google Live Transcribe</a> because I was impressed how Google translate works nicely for on-the-fly translation which is built on the mentioned API. However I don't want to buy a random tablet just because of its screen but not able to catch multiple people in a room clearly because of a bad mic. </p> <p>Do you have recommendations for hardware or software for that purpose?</p>

Dictation tablet with Google Live Transcribe for hearing impaired

<p>This <a href="https://www.opsbuya.com/products/2020-new-2.4g-wifi-luggage-mini-folding-rc-drone-hd-1080p-camera?variant=15435458" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$60 kit</a> (FOB Destination) or drone, battery, charger, controller, and miscellany packs up into an included hardcase 8.3" x 5.2" x 2.6", which fits in an overhead luggage bin of even commuter aircraft. The battery is well under commercial airline regulation limits. It provides 1080P video and the drone's video records on iOS or Android smartphones. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AzAVx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AzAVx.jpg" alt="Folding drone in its case"></a></p>

13019

2020-03-07T17:47:13.257

|drone|

<p>I'm looking for tiny drone for taking some pictures/video while traveling. At least image quality should be pretty decent. 720 for video would be fine. Flying time of couple of minutes will be fine. No preferences for altitude/distance. And it should be allowed to be taken on the plane.</p> <p>(Not sure what else to include here as don't really use drones)</p>

Small drone recomendation

<p>The specification of your laptop battery is 51 Wh, which is a unit of energy. Overly simplified, the battery could provide a power of 51W for 1 hour. Or 102W for 30 minutes. Again, it is not quite that simple, but the examples here are not entirely wrong either, and should allow you to get an idea of what this unit means.<br> The specification of your charger is 180W, which is a unit of power. I.e. it is able to provide a sustained power of 180W. </p> <p>Consequently, the two specifications are not interchangeable. If you use a charger specified for less than 180W, your laptop might not recognise it at all, or it will run with reduced performance. Or in the absolute worst case, the charger blows up, which might even cause damage to your laptop. Powerful laptops these days are often designed in a way, that the battery alone can not provide enough power to run all components at maximum performance. Instead, they require the charger(s) to provide enough power. And the other way round: some laptops can even draw more peak power than the charger is designed for. In these cases, the battery is used to provide the delta, discharging it despite being connected to an outlet. </p> <p>To answer your question: depending on which charger you buy, it might not be safe to use one rated for less than 180W. In any case, using a lower powered charger will result in lower performance of the laptop, or the charger might not be recognised at all. I strongly advise against using a charger rated for lower power than 180W in your case. Judging by the main components of your laptop alone (GTX 1070, Intel CPU with 45W TDP), it definitely needs a charger that can provide 180W.</p>

13030

2020-03-10T17:41:38.713

|laptop|adapter|

<p>My laptop is GS63VR 7RG Stealth Pro: <a href="https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GS63VR-7RG-Stealth-Pro/Specification" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.msi.com/Laptop/GS63VR-7RG-Stealth-Pro/Specification</a></p> <p>Since provided AC adapter is too heavy, I'd like to buy a smaller compatible charger.</p> <p>The specification table says its battery is '3-cell, 51Wh'. This makes me think charger with 51W output is enough.</p> <p>However, the output of provided AC adapter is 180W. Do I actually need such high power charger? Or, is it safe to use lighter one because the battery requires 51W only?</p>

Charger for MSI gaming laptop

<p>I would start with a <a href="https://www.ebay.com/i/283807213427?chn=ps&amp;norover=1&amp;mkevt=1&amp;mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&amp;mkcid=2&amp;itemid=283807213427&amp;targetid=883564623986&amp;device=c&amp;mktype=pla&amp;googleloc=9032873&amp;poi=&amp;campaignid=6469750549&amp;mkgroupid=93041470030&amp;rlsatarget=pla-883564623986&amp;abcId=1141176&amp;merchantid=119303975" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pressure sensitive floor mat</a> which gives a switch closure when someone steps on the mat, or an infrared sensor which <a href="https://randomnerdtutorials.com/arduino-with-pir-motion-sensor/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">senses a person</a> <a href="https://store.arduino.cc/usa/grove-infrared-reflective-sensor-v1-2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">by reflection from an infrared LED</a>. The latter does work on folks wearing black, BTW. Either would be monitored by an <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino controller</a> which, when presence is selected, provides power to the monitor <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/3191" rel="nofollow noreferrer">through a relay</a>.</p>

13032

2020-03-10T19:52:08.800

|tablet|

<p>I have a customer that would like to have a display that detects when a human walks up to a screen (distance like from a standard terminal) that sensor then needs to trigger a display of some data.</p> <p>existing conditions:</p> <ul> <li>wifi is present</li> <li>high metal environment (construction hall)</li> <li>medium to cheap price range</li> </ul> <p>What kind of sensors should I look at?</p>

sensor for human detection

<p><strong>GPD</strong> is THE brand for such toys. </p> <p>But your list of requirements I think isn't realistic (and in a way not even relevant.) Even normal big laptops don't usually match those specs so why would you look for them in a miny device and then expect it shouldn't even be overly hot... (And TBH, comparing to the RCA Voyager Pro which has 1 GB RAM why are you looking for 16 GB?....)</p> <p>If you do consider going with <strong>GPD</strong>, there is the 8.9" <strong><a href="https://amzn.to/2TMqXdN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GPD P2 Max</a></strong> and its smaller brother the 7" <strong><a href="https://amzn.to/3aS5WUI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GPD Pocket 2</a></strong></p>

13037

2020-03-12T18:15:57.960

|laptop|mini-pc|

<p>I am looking for a small laptop to match my <a href="https://shop.rcaav.com/shop/computing/tablets/rca-voyager-pro-7-16gb-tablet-keyboard-case-android-8-rct6873w42kccf9/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RCA Voyager Pro</a>. For me, this is a matter of character and style. I want something with decent specifications that I can fit in my pocket (see table below):</p> <pre><code>+-------------+----------------+ | Screen | Under 9" | | RAM | 8GB+ | | SSD | 300GB+ | | Processor | Intel Core i3+ | +-------------+----------------+ </code></pre> <p>I came across something called the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07T4719T2" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">One Netbook One Mix 3S Yoga</a>, which seemed to be exactly what I was looking for. However, after reading the customer reviews, I realized that this laptop has a problem with overheating.</p> <p>This was the only the only pocket-sized laptop I could find the internet. Is there a different one I may have overlooked?</p>

Is there a mini-laptop I can buy?

<p><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20store" rel="nofollow noreferrer">UK amateur radio stores</a> will have SMA antennas and connectors, as SMA is the most common connector for handheld transceivers. Please specify you want a UHF antenna for monitoring 1090 MHz <a href="https://flightaware.com/adsb/mlat/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ADS-B/MLAT</a> aircraft transmissions. Conventional aircraft voice radio is 108-136 MHz AM; make sure to specify to the seller you need 1090 MHz. Also, make sure to get a standard male connector as there are 'reversed male' SMA connectors.</p> <p>My Yaesu VX-5 HT receives aircraft UHF transmissions with its factory stock two metre rubber duckie antenna 20 miles LOS from PDX, but you can also obtain a connector and coax to attach it to an antenna in a window or an exterior omnidirectional antenna if that's not enough signal for you.</p> <p>A vertical antenna is preferred as aircraft radios use vertical polarization.</p> <p>How cheap is cheap? Here are rubber duckie 1GHZ capable SMA antennas <a href="https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/d/digi-intl/uhf-300-mhz-to-1-ghz-antennas" rel="nofollow noreferrer">which attach to the receiver</a>, a broader selection of <a href="https://www.digikey.com/products/en/rf-if-and-rfid/rf-antennas/875?FV=1883%7C378890%2C1989%7C0%2C-8%7C875%2C1850%7C417326%2C1850%7C417333%2C1850%7C419655&amp;quantity=0&amp;ColumnSort=0&amp;page=1&amp;datasheet=1&amp;pageSize=500" rel="nofollow noreferrer">all that vendor's 1GHz capable antennas</a>, <a href="https://www.everythingrf.com/search/all-antennas/filters?page=1&amp;country=UK&amp;stype=;Rubber%20Duck;&amp;sindustry=;Aerospace%20%26%20Defense;&amp;sfrequency_min=1000&amp;sfrequency_max=1200" rel="nofollow noreferrer">another vendor's choices</a>, and <a href="https://www.nearson.com/antennas.php?page_id=67&amp;0=1&amp;1=41" rel="nofollow noreferrer">other selections</a>. Put the receiver module near a windows on a pie plate or other flat metal object to provide a ground plane. </p> <p><a href="https://www.rfwiz.com/comtelco-a21wb698b-uhf-3dbd" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1GHz UHF mag mount antennas</a> can be ordered with the SMA connector to get it further away from the module if needed. </p> <p>If you need cheaper, get an <a href="https://www.moonraker.eu/sma-so239-male-sma-to-so239-socket" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SMA male to PL-259 female connector</a> and a metre of stiff, solid copper bell wire at a hardware store, or out of your junk bin. Wrap the bare end of one piece of wire around the exterior of the PL-259 (larger end) connector and run that to a radiator or other ground. Take the rest of the wire, strip off a couple of cm on one end, fold the bare wire with pliers, and jam it into the interior of the PL-259; the other end goes straight up into the air. See illo at <a href="https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://images.app.goo.gl/ku2TSmUQCsTuviYv7</a> ; more ideas are at <a href="https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://survivalcomms.wordpress.com/2016/04/29/basic-antennas-for-vhf-uhf-field-communications-part-1/</a> </p> <p>And, <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=UK%20amateur%20radio%20license" rel="nofollow noreferrer">get a license</a>! It's fun!</p> <p>73 and best regards.</p>

13049

2020-03-17T08:58:18.287

|antennas|

<p><a href="https://thepihut.com/products/flightaware-pro-stick-plus-usb-sdr-ads-b-receiver" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This</a> looks like a lovely little toy, but I am unclear which antenna to use with it , and those on the site cost more than double the price of the receiver itself. It collects ADS-B (aircraft info) which I intend to process in software.</p> <p>I am a pure software guy, with no knowledge of hardware, who is thinking of buying such a receiver to play around with it.</p> <p>I live two miles from a major airport. Any idea if I could get away without an antenna (told you I know nothing of hardware ;-)? If not, what's the cheapest I can get, with post &amp; package to the UK? I would prefer to use it indoors, if at all possible, rather than running a cable out to the garden, or even hanging it out of an upstairs window.</p> <p>Anything else that I need to know? </p>

Cheap SMA antenna for this ADS-B (aircraft info) receiver

<p>1) A pair of <a href="http://acroname.com/store/s85-pass-usbcsw?sku=S85-RDVR-USBCSW" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acroname Programmable Industrial USB Type-C 4-Port Switches</a> controlled by a NUC, micro PC, or creaky old lappie could do the trick. Sure wish they had a <a href="https://images.app.goo.gl/cpN1PhopxXybGR1W9" rel="nofollow noreferrer">manual switch</a>, though, to make switching easy. </p> <p>USB-C <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3.2 for video</a> is so new, and devices for all the different versions of USB-C are so inconsistently implemented because of all the things it can do, that we're just not seeing much stuff which ain't spendy. </p> <p>==</p> <p>Now, since the MacBookPro supports Thunderbolt 3 on the USB-C we have a less spendy solution. </p> <p>2) StarTech.com has a <a href="https://www.startech.com/AV/display-and-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-video-adapters/thunderbolt-3-to-dual-hdmi~TB32HD24K60" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thunderbolt 3 device</a> with one USB-C 3.2 in, two 3.2 USB-C out. The second StarTech out port could be converted to HDM(I). Since your monitors also accept HDM(I), adding such a <a href="https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2016/9/1/12758384/usb-c-hdmi-alt-mode-cables-specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">conversion cable</a> provides the second signal to each monitor. Then, an app which runs in Win10, an iOS phone/tablet or Android phone/tablet <a href="https://displayfusion.com/Features/RemoteControl" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tells your monitors to toggle</a> (<a href="https://www.displayfusion.com/Compare/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pro version</a>) between the USB-C 3.2 A/V data input to the monitor and the HDMI A/V data input to the monitor.</p>

13062

2020-03-18T13:57:22.060

|usb|kvm|usb-c|

<p>I want to share a pair of Dell S2719DC 27" QHD (2560 x 1550 @ 59 Hz) resolution USB-C monitors between two 2018 MacBook Pros. The MacBooks dual-boot to run either MacOS 10.15 Catalina and Windows 10 (work &amp; personal). Each MacBook can drive two monitors by USB-C as is.</p> <p>I'd like a USB-C matrix switch with four USB-C inputs and two USB-C outputs, so I can plug each laptop's 2 USB-C ports into the switch, and decide which PC uses the monitors at any moment. I've done a lot of Googling and come up empty.</p> <p>This effectively, but all using USB Type-C connectors:</p> <pre><code>Monitor Monitor | | +----++----+ || Switch || || +----+| |+----+ |+----+ +----+| || || Work Home Laptop Laptop </code></pre> <p>Does anyone know if such a product exists?</p> <p>Thanks in advance,</p> <p>Steve.</p>

USB Type-C Switch for Monitor Sharing between PCs

<p>How about </p> <ol> <li>A <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07TTT24QX" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gemini</a> (<a href="https://www.zdnet.com/article/gemini-pda-a-long-term-evaluation-of-the-reborn-psion-series-5/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">review</a>) (<a href="https://www.pocket-lint.com/phones/reviews/143148-planet-gemini-pda-review" rel="nofollow noreferrer">review</a>) with Debian or Sailfish installed</li> <li>a <a href="https://store.pine64.org/?product=pinephone-braveheart-limited-edition-linux-smartphone-for-early-adaptor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PinePhone</a> (shipping now for <em>early adopters</em>) </li> <li>a <a href="https://www.pine64.org/pinetab/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PineTab</a> (Real Soon Now) </li> <li>a DIY tablet based on a <a href="https://www.pine64.org/rockpro64/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.pine64.org/rockpro64/</a> with exactly the display, battery, and case you prefer (I've used cigar boxes) </li> <li>A Pi-based <a href="https://www.notebookcheck.net/Wio-Terminal-A-Raspberry-Pi-compatible-SBC-with-an-integrated-display-Wi-Fi-and-IR.458553.0.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DIY handheld</a> </li> <li>Installing the <a href="https://e.foundation/get-support/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">/e/ OS on 89 different phones</a> of your choice, or </li> <li>a <a href="https://e.foundation/e-pre-installed-refurbished-smartphones" rel="nofollow noreferrer">refurb with the /e/ OS</a> overwriting all the phone-home-ware?</li> </ol>

13079

2020-03-19T06:56:40.773

|linux|android|tablet|battery-life|cheap|

<p>I am looking for a tablet, which I will use only for email and, possibly, browsing (reading news items only). No games, videos, music, etc.</p> <p>Bluettoth is not required; I am undecided about a SIM card.</p> <p>I would prefer Linux, but could live with Android out of the box, especially if I could install Linux over it.</p> <p>The device should be large enough to read, but should fit inside a jacket pocket, so maximum size about that of a Kindle Paperwhite.</p> <p>Battery life is of great importance to me, to the extent that I would prefer a back &amp; white, or greyscale screen, if there were such a tablet.</p> <p>The cheaper, the better, but features mentioned above take precedence.</p> <p>End of question, only read further if you want an explanation.</p> <hr> <p>Background: my current 'phone suffered an accident, and I am replacing it. It is a <a href="https://www.techradar.com/uk/reviews/ulefone-power-5s-rugged-smartphone" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ulefone Power</a> with a 13,000 mAH battery (yup, you read that correctly). I generally charge it every 5 or 6 days (side note, I can heartily recommend all UleFone models; this is my 5th or 6th over the years. Affordable, full featured, cheap, but realisable).</p> <p>As per my question <a href="https://security.stackexchange.com/questions/187982/how-can-i-escape-google">How can I escape Google?</a>, I don't want my soul tracked by Gogole, Facetweet, etc (I don't even use them - directly - but they are tracking me). So, I have decided to switch to a dumb 'phone.</p> <p>I recall only ten years ago getting months between charges on a small, greyscale, Nokia, so will look for something similar.</p> <p>I only really use a 'phone when job-hunting. Every 12 months or so, as I am freelance. A handful of people use WhatsApp, but I can retrain them to use SMS.</p> <p>Beyond that, I have become accustomed to having email on the go, rather than just reading &amp; replying when I get home of an evening. I have also taken to reading news headlines in the browser. A device that will let me do those with a modicum of privacy (let me worry about that) and a long battery life would be welcome. </p>

Linux or Android tablet with long battery life and cheap

<p>No. You are left with what the manufacturer deemed an acceptable cooling solution. Also, there are no replacement parts made from different materials.</p> <p>Changing/reapplying high quality thermal paste can give better results, even if the device is new. Liquid metal compounds offer the lowest thermal resistance, but can cause damage to your machine, both in the short term (they are electrically conductive) and in the long term (they don't get along well e.g. with copper).</p> <p>But it seems like you might be seeing a problem where there is none. The only temperature you mentioned is 39°C, which is completely safe and normal for modern mobile CPUs. Under load, they usually run above 90°C.</p>

13081

2020-03-19T11:50:11.370

|cooling|heat-sink|

<p><strong>Hello community</strong>. I just bought an HP laptop (HP 15 da1032) about a month ago, but i noticed that the laptop was heating with minimum amount of work load (i tried installing <strong>Eclipse</strong>),it goes around (39 C), and there is only ONE fan and ONE heat pipe for cooling the CPU (<a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/149091/intel-core-i7-8565u-processor-8m-cache-up-to-4-60-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i7 8565u</a>) and the GPU (NVIDIA MX-130), and the laptop back panel is Plastic. Now i want to know is there a better fan or heat pipe for my laptop? or is there any back panel that fit with my model? i searched online but i couldn't find something talk about replacement.</p> <p>here is a picture of my laptop inside:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnTXZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnTXZ.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>PS: There is some videos on YouTube trying to re-apply the <strong>Thermal Paste</strong>, i thought my laptop would not need this cause it's new.</p> <p>and, i heard that back panels that are <strong>Aluminum</strong> or <strong>Magnesium alloy</strong> will do a better job for cooling, will this really help with my laptop? i was wondered if it's available for my laptop model. Thanks</p>

Is there any FAN upgrade option for HP 15 da1032?

<p>This post explains how the poster created a <a href="https://www.circuitvalley.com/2020/02/diy-imx219-4-lane-mipi-breakout-board-raspberry-pi-camera-fpga-4-lane-mipi-csi.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">four-lane board he's selling</a> to double throughput, and also provided a lot of <a href="https://www.circuitvalley.com/2020/02/imx219-camera-mipi-csi-receiver-fpga-lattice-raspberry-pi-camera.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">technical background</a>.</p> <p>This <a href="http://www.camera-module.com/product/raspberrypicameramod/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">seller of Pi cameras</a> may also have useful gear.</p>

13083

2020-03-19T13:41:37.973

|raspberry-pi|camera|video-camera|video-capture|

<p>So I came across this great <a href="https://hackaday.com/2019/08/10/660-fps-raspberry-pi-video-captures-the-moment-in-extreme-slo-mo/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">article</a> about getting 660 frames per second from a Raspberry PI and its default camera, and was wondering is there any way to crank the setup up with possibly higher frame rate camera and faster processing hardware?</p> <p>As far as I understand there should be a <a href="https://www.electronicdesign.com/technologies/communications/article/21799475/understanding-mipi-alliance-interface-specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MIPI</a> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camera_Serial_Interface" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Camera Serial Interface</a> (<a href="http://www.camera-module.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-mipi-csi-2-vs-csi-3.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">more</a>) (and <a href="https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20190926005230/en/New-Version-Widely-Camera-Imaging-Interface%E2%80%94MIPI-CSI-2%E2%80%94Designed" rel="nofollow noreferrer">more</a>) on both camera and recording device, and the rest is just a software issue. I did some search and found something like <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/IMX307-MIPI-CSI-2-2MP-Star-Light-ISP-Camera-for-Raspberry-Pi-and-Jetson-Nano/293496855693?hash=item4455c69c8d:m:mKxwJQTODRxnqP7tTL_u-7A" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>.</p> <p>So asking for any research advice, maybe there are some specific keywords I can search for, or maybe some brand.</p>

Camera and motherboard with Camera Serial Interface

<p>In the US, finding a new laptop under $265 USD (That is the equivalent to 250 euro) is tough, but I have found a couple that might interest you. US laptops might be different than what European laptops can offer in build though, so keep that in mind. The only issue is you're not going to find an M.2 expansion slot on a budget laptop. Even my Dell Inspiron Gaming Laptop doesn't have one.</p> <p><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07Q147J19" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo IdeaPad</a> This option has pretty much everything you want. It has 4GB RAM, 128GB SSD, Windows 10 and a nice AMD CPU that is extremely similar to your CPU. I don't see an M.2 slot.<br> <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07N6S4SY1" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS VivoBook L203MA</a> This is another nice option. 4GB of RAM, 64GB of eMMC Storage, Windows 10, and a decent CPU. The screen isn't Full HD, it is 720p (1366 x 768). This even has a USB-C port.<br> <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01M1AQ316" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Elitebook 8470p</a> This is an AWESOME laptop if it was new. This is a refurbished laptop, but that means you will get a lot more bang for your buck. Speaking from experience, this is a stellar CPU and RAM config with 8GB of RAM. 500GB HDD (SATA) and you can remove this one and add a bigger 2.5" SATA drive down the road, DVD/CD Drive, 720p screen and a backlight keyboard. This is one of the best ones you can find below $250 USD. </p> <p>If I had to purchase one for you, I would buy the HP Elitebook 8470p. It is a great laptop with some stellar hardware under the hood, and you'll enjoy the added speed compared to what a new laptop would be in that same range.</p>

13093

2020-03-20T12:03:12.730

|laptop|

<p>I am looking for a potential upgrade to my laptop. I want a Windows 10 machine; something smaller, lighter and more portable than what I now have, preferably with a metal shell. I have a budget of about £250.</p> <p>The CPU needs to be at least at the level of an AMD A9-9410, or better, as this is what my current laptop has.</p> <p>Other features that are necessary are: at least 32 GB of storage and at least 4 GB of ram with room to add an M.2 SSD, full HD 1920x1080 screen, as thin and light as possible. It must run Windows 10.</p> <p>Nice-to-to-haves would be USB type C, and backlit keyboard.</p> <p>Please can you advise me on what to buy? I have seen brands like CHUWI, Jumper and Teclast. that all seem to do these standards of laptops. Thank You!</p>

Which Windows laptop should I buy for near £250?

<p>Multiple <a href="https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/docs/boards-kits/nuc/nuc-family-overview.html?" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel NUCs</a> meet all those specifications, except for the power supply by USB-C (they all include their own power supply). Intel themselves confirms <a href="https://forums.intel.com/s/question/0D70P0000068WtMSAU/nuc6cayh-to-qhd-monitor?language=en_US" rel="nofollow noreferrer">QHD compatibility</a> on at least one model.</p>

13102

2020-03-22T07:52:28.267

|usb|power-supply|mini-pc|nuc|usb-c|

<p>I have an MBP for work. I want to have a dedicated development environment for private projects to not mess up my work setup. Also, I wanna run Linux (just Ubuntu something).</p> <p>The MBP is currently connected via USB C 3.1 to a display featuring a USB hub providing mouse and keyboard connectivity. The nice thing here is, of course, that I only need to connect one single USB C cable to have these things:</p> <ul> <li>video signal</li> <li>power supply</li> <li>connection to keyboard and mouse via USB hub</li> </ul> <p>So, in a sense, it replaces a docking station.</p> <p>First I thought about just buying a Dell XPS 13. I mean it runs Linux natively and has USB C 3.1. So I could just go ahead and switch between the MBP and the Dell. </p> <p>Then I thought, why would I even need a laptop. I have an older notebook at home and a mini PC would be just enough. </p> <h2>TL;DR</h2> <p>Long story short, is there a mini PC (up to 900 Euro) out there with the following specs:</p> <p><strong>Mandatory</strong>:</p> <ul> <li>Video signal via USB C 3.1 DP (need to handle QHD 60Hz)</li> <li>Able to run Ubuntu out of the box</li> <li>Decent hardware for smooth development</li> <li>Available for EU (shipment and power supply)</li> <li>Wifi and Bluetooth</li> </ul> <p><strong>Kinda mandatory</strong>, but not a deal-breaker "in case":</p> <ul> <li>Power supply via USB C</li> </ul> <p><strong>Nice to have</strong>, but optional:</p> <ul> <li>VESA mountable</li> </ul>

USB C 3.1 Mini PC capable of running Linux

<p>I know in the US that the Netgear Nighthawk series allows for this and works well. I have a Netgear Nighthawk R7800, and that works a charm. We previously had a Netgear Nighthawk R6900P and that also worked a charm. These routers are quality routers but may be pricy in India. </p> <p>I'd recommend one of these: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00R2AZLD2" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Netgear Nighthawk R6700</a>, <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07C65K9H9" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Netgear Nighthawk R6900P</a>, <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01NA80JML" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Netgear Nighthawk R7000P</a>, or <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0192911RA" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Netgear Nighthawk R7800</a> </p> <p>All of these will last long, well-rated in the US, reliable, user-friendly and have room for expansion. They'll cover a 3-story house well and even outside of the house.</p> <p>If you want a mesh network (a series of small routers linked together), I would use the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07WMLPSRL" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Eero mesh system</a> they will cover .7 acres of land extremely well and if there are any slow-spots in the house/property, you can buy more than just one pack of three and hook it up. They are extremely user-friendly and easy to set up. The only issues with them are that you can't set them up with a computer, you must use the Eero app on an Android or iOS device, and you can't limit the speed on the guest network.</p>

13104

2020-03-22T10:04:13.730

|wifi|router|

<p>I have 100 Mbps broadband plan. I want to limit it to 1 Mbps for guest network so that streaming and other things would work smoothly on my main network. Which router is suitable for me(in India)?</p>

Need suggestion for WiFi router

<p>There's no standard assumption for the number of users, for that's dependent on the processing power of the router and many other factors. This is a complex subject which is why there are WiFi <a href="https://www.cwnp.com/it-certifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">industry certifications</a> for <a href="https://www.businessnewsdaily.com/10804-wireless-networking-certifications.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">admins</a>. </p> <p>Given your use case of 50+ users in an office with at most one gypsum wall, I believe a more powerful router with more processing power than the Broadcom BCM47189 and BCM43217 processors in your existing ASUS router would be desirable. Also, a new router should conform to the new <a href="https://www.wi-fi.org/discover-wi-fi/wi-fi-certified-6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WiFi 6</a> <a href="https://www.networkworld.com/article/3258807/what-is-80211ax-wi-fi-6-and-what-will-it-mean-for-80211ac.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">802.11ax</a> standard, and be capable of security with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Access" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WPA2, WPA3</a>, and 802.1X WPA <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Protected_Access#EAP_extensions_under_WPA_and_WPA2_Enterprise" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Enterprise</a> with a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RADIUS" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RADIUS Server</a>. The latter may not be desirable now, but if you find later on you need that, you're prepared.</p> <p>You can expand the network coverage with additional Wireless Access Points, or another router, later if you need to. </p>

13118

2020-03-24T09:40:04.127

|wifi|

<p>I want to replace an <a href="https://www.asus.com/Networking/RT-AC1200G-plus/specifications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS RT-AC1200G+</a> router. Currently, it is supporting around 20 wireless devices in my office. I am looking to support more than 50 wireless devices in my office in the near future.</p> <p>Is there a good metric to look at for wireless routers to determine what is the maximum number of concurrent users it can support? Or is there an assumed limit of "X" number of devices regardless of brand and model? </p>

What criteria to use to pick a wireless router for a large number of users/devices?

<p>There are many tutorials of good quality and reliability which address the issue of drive replacement for a version 8.1 second-generation 2011 MacBook Pro. Many users have <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=Drive%20in%20a%20MacBook%20Pro%208.1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">found this to be a worthwhile upgrade</a>.</p> <p>May I suggest you look at the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=MacBook%20Pro%202011%20drive%20replacement" rel="nofollow noreferrer">guides on YouTube</a>, starting with those from <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">iFixIt</a>? Those were very popular with the Mac team of the <a href="https://www.freegeek.org/who-we-are" rel="nofollow noreferrer">community computer rebuilding/reuse center</a> I volunteered at for many years. </p> <p>Every PC, MacBook, and MacBook Pro which was donated to us had its HDD or SSD replaced, wiped to milspec standard, and then reused in a different chassis to assure no user data ever fell into the hands of another user. The process is not daunting by any means. </p> <p>Replacing the factory 5400 RPM HDD with a new SSD will not only improve performance, and reduce power consumption (and therefore reduce waste heat as well as prolong runtime on a battery charge), but the factory HDD is past its expected five year lifetime by now.</p> <p>As to data migration, there are multiple drive cloning apps available which make the process practical. However, before you pick up the first tool, I would make a backup to an external drive, network-attached computer, or the cloud, and verify the backed up data matches the source; then, repeat the process to a different external drive or a different cloud provider. </p> <p>Note: Do NOT shop for an NVMe SSD as those are incompatible; you would want a SATA-III SSD. </p>

13121

2020-03-25T02:14:51.747

|laptop|apple|

<p>If I bought an internal SSD to replace current hard drive for my 2011 MacBook Pro would it take full advantage of a newer SSD say like a 1 TB drive? </p> <p><a href="https://support.apple.com/kb/SP645?locale=en_US" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Specs from Apple</a></p>

2011 MacBook Pro and internal SSD, is it worth it?

<p>The cheapest that I could find - that is available for delivery during the epidemic - was an <a href="https://www.argos.co.uk/product/9172874" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Epson Expression Home XP-2105 Wireless Inkjet Printer</a> for £39.99, plus £3.95 delivery (same day).</p> <p>I imagine that, as usual, it will come with half-cartridges. But, frankly, I am coming to see that buying a new printer is cheer than buying ink, so will probably continue to do so in future. If I buy a dedicated scanner, or just keep this printer to use its scanner features, then I can buy even cheaper printers in future, with no scanning capability.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLszY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLszY.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Printer:</p> <pre><code>Compatible with PC and Mac. A4 print speed - black text: 8ppm (pages per minute). A4 print speed - colour text: 4ppm (pages per minute). Up to 5760 x 1440dpi print resolution. Up to 5760 x 1440dpi colour print resolution. Fits paper up to A4. 50 sheet paper capacity. Uses 4 ink cartridges. Recommended ink: Starfish 603. </code></pre> <p>Scanner and copier:</p> <pre><code>1200 x 2400dpi optical resolution. </code></pre> <p>Connectivity:</p> <pre><code>Suitable for photo printing. Wireless/WiFi enabled. Email Print. Mobile print enables printing direct from your smartphone or tablet through brand specific apps. </code></pre> <p>General information:</p> <pre><code>Photo editing software included. Weight 4.82kg. Includes Full set of Ink, Power Cable &amp; Instructions Manual. Ink cartridge included. Size H19.3, W37, D45.5cm. EAN: 8715946665443. </code></pre>

13127

2020-03-25T17:20:34.683

|printer|cheap|

<p>Similar to <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/762/good-printer-with-cheap-ink">this question</a>, but that is 5 years old and Canada based.</p> <p>I am looking for a cheap all-in-one (print &amp; scan/copy) printer, USB connection (I don't mind paying an extra fiver for WiFi, but can live without it).</p> <p>I am thinking "total cost of ownership", so want something that won't break the bank when it comes to buying refill ink.</p> <p>Must be deliverable, in the UK (owing to Corona virus lock-down), and soon (amazon seems to be de-prioritizing some ares, including tech, in favour of others, such as food).</p> <p>I need to something printed, posted and received in the UK by the end of the month.</p>

Cheap all-in-one wifi printer with cheap ink (deliverable soon in the UK)

<p>"Dependent on memory type" is just a standard disclaimer, it does not apply here. The phrase applies e.g. to CPUs that support both UDIMM and RDIMM, with the latter enabling higher total memory capacity. It does not refer to memory speed.</p> <p>A better source for information on Thinkpads is <a href="https://thinkwiki.de/X220" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://thinkwiki.de/X220</a> It's in German, but the memory section states that 16GB will work in an X220, using two 8GB DIMMs. And I have seen quite a few reports from people using 2x8GB in an X220.</p>

13137

2020-03-26T02:49:07.423

|laptop|memory|upgrade|

<p>Looking at this page <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/53438/intel-core-i3-2350m-processor-3m-cache-2-30-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/53438/intel-core-i3-2350m-processor-3m-cache-2-30-ghz.html</a> It mentions that 16GB of memory is supported but then it says "dependent on memory type". Are they referring to the speed of the memory or the manufacturer?</p> <p>Has anyone put 16GB in a Lenovo x220i i3?</p> <p>Thanks</p>

Will a Lenovo X220i with i3 support either 1066/1333?

<p>Your Lenovo P51 Laptop may be able to run VR if you use an external GPU box (also called eGPU's) because you have a Thunderbolt 3 port, which is what that uses. </p> <p>Here are some GPU boxes: <a href="https://www.razer.com/gaming-laptops/razer-core-x" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Razer Core X</a> (In RGB and Non-RGB 'flavors') and <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/Gaming-Box" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte GPU Box</a> with a <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N208TIXEB-11GC#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nvidia RTX 2080ti</a>, <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N2070IXEB-8GC#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nvidia RTX 2070</a>, <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1080IXEB-8GD#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nvidia GTX 1080</a>, <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1070IXEB-8GD#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nvidia GTX 1070</a>, or <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-RX580IXEB-8GD#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AMD RX 580</a> GPU's</p> <p>If you wanted the Razer Core X, you would need to pair it with a minimum of a GTX 1060. I strongly recommend you getting a GTX 1660Ti over the GTX 1060 because new GTX 1060's are hard to find, and going to be expensive for an older piece of hardware. The GTX 1660TI is the best bang for the buck that would run VR. </p> <p>If you wanted the Gigabyte's GPU box, I would purchase one with an Nvidia GTX 1080, Nvidia GTX 1070 or an AMD RX 580. </p> <p>These are the GPUs that will work and I recommend, in order of most to least powerful:</p> <ol> <li>RTX 2060 Super</li> <li>GTX 1070ti</li> <li>RTX 2060</li> <li>GTX 1070</li> <li>GTX 1660Ti</li> <li>GTX 1660 Super</li> <li>GTX 1660</li> <li>GTX 1060</li> </ol> <p>I wouldn't buy anything above an RTX 2060 Super without buying a laptop, where at that point, I'd find a laptop with an RTX 2060 or higher in it because you're going to be saving money at that point (and maybe even some bottlenecking from happening).</p> <p>Here are some GPU links that I like (In order from least to most powerful):<br> <a href="https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-gtx-1060-gtx-1060-gaming-x-6g/p/N82E16814127963" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nvidia GTX 1060 (Minimum) $400</a><br> <a href="https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-gv-n166toc-6gd/p/N82E16814932131" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nvidia GTX 1660Ti $300</a></p> <p>(Thank you <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/9825/k7aay">MechEng</a> and <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/users/13807/mecheng">K7AAY</a> for adding the information about the Gigabyte eGPU and pricing of GPU's to put in the eGPU, I'm sure 'Barrymac' appreciated it as much as I do)</p>

13154

2020-03-28T20:39:54.513

|laptop|graphics-cards|gaming|

<p>I have a <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P51/p/22TP2WPWP51" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo P51 laptop</a> with the Quadro M2200 graphics card.</p> <p>I'm wondering if this hardware supports VR gaming? </p> <p>If not, would it be possible or sensible to use and external graphics box connected over Thunderbolt? </p>

VR with Quadro M2200

<p>I would suggest anything with a GTX 1660TI or lower for a GPU. I would assume GTX 1080 or lower will play nicer with Linux due to the GPU's being older and have more robust drivers. Those are going to be cheap, powerful enough for gaming in Minecraft and still leave you with plenty of battery life to use for 7-8 hours if you configure the power usage correctly. (Just be aware that prices are inflated due to the COVID-19 outbreak)</p> <p>I'd recommend the following:<br> <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/gaming-laptops/dell-g3-15-gaming-laptop/spd/g-series-15-3590-laptop/gnslk5crg302s?view=configurations&amp;configurationid=c6a8572c-c15c-4733-bc75-980867d81c5e" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell G3 15in Gaming Laptop w/ GTX 1050</a> </p> <p>I have the 2017 version of this laptop (running windows) and I love it. No issues with gaming performance on Minecraft and even more demanding titles like Rainbow Six Siege, BeamNG.Drive, COD: BO4 and Titanfall.</p>

13158

2020-03-29T17:29:43.350

|laptop|gaming|linux|

<p>What's the best laptop under $800 for Linux gaming? I'll use it for Minecraft and general computer stuff. I'll install Linux Mint as the operating system.</p> <p>Requirements:</p> <ul> <li>1920x1080 display (or higher)</li> <li>At least 256GB SSD/HDD</li> <li>GPU drivers work well with Linux</li> </ul> <p>Best means highest FPS in Minecraft.</p>

Best laptop under $800 for Linux gaming?

<p>Not consistently <a href="https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/graphics-cards/rtx-2070-super/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">according to the NVIDIA specs</a> found at their website. A search in their <a href="https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/discover/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Support Forum</a> and also <a href="https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/list/st/5/kw/Disable%20ray%20tracing/page/1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">in their knowledgebase</a> found no comments regarding improved performance if ray tracing is turned off. </p> <p>However, Inamdar in <a href="https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/chat/chat_launch/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NVIDIA Chat Support</a> did say "Yes, if you use the game without ray tracing the fps and performance will increase. We can't comment about the FPS (rate). FPS <strong>depends upon the game</strong> and configuration. It can't be constant." </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6KUA2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6KUA2.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

13176

2020-04-01T01:01:49.940

|graphics-cards|gaming|nvidia|

<p>I plan on building a gaming PC to play FPS, racing sims and VR games. I want to know what graphics cards are capable of running those style games at it's maximum presets at 1440p 144hz. These are the parts that I currently planning on putting in the system. I would like to spend around 500-750 USD on a GPU, but don't want to skimp on a GPU's quality or performance either. I'd also like this card to be a triple fan GPU.</p> <p>CPU: Intel Core i9-9900kf (Plan on OC'ing)<br> CPU Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Slim (with two fans, in push/pull config)<br> MOBO: Gigabyte Z390 Gaming X LGA1151<br> RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4x16) DDR4-3000<br> SSD: Samsung 860 Evo 1TB M.2<br> HDD: Western Digital Black 6TB 7200RPM<br> GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070 Super<br> Case: Thermaltake V100 (With 5 120mm Case fans) PSU: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold </p> <p>Would the Nvidia RTX 2070 Super run video games at 1440p 144FPS at settings high/very high settings without Ray Tracing? (The reason behind that is because my family member has the RTX 2080 TI and doesn't like RT b/c it impacts framerate too much)</p>

Nvidia GPU that can play games at 1440p 144hz

<p>An access point is an access point because it only officially supports access point firmware. If you must have the label "Access Point" on the device, then it will be a device that is sub-par to what you would be able to get by just purchasing a small all-in-one linux computer such as a thin client.</p> <p>An access point that runs open linux is no longer an access point, it's just a computer, even though it may look exactly like an access point. New thin clients can be somewhat expensive, but older models that can be purchased as "new old stock" can be found in the $100-$200USD range and would provide more than enough performance to act as an access point and/or router.</p> <p><a href="https://www8.hp.com/h20195/V2/GetPDF.aspx/4aa4-5632enw" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Thin Clients</a></p> <p><a href="https://www.dell.com/ly/business/p/thin-and-zero-client-series/product-compare" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell Wyse Thin Clients</a></p>

13182

2020-04-01T12:15:43.410

|wifi|

<p>We need Wifi APs for a small business.</p> <p>However, there are various expectations what I can't foresee. The last what I want, that trivial things, what the hardware could easily do, are simply impossible because we have no root access to our own devices.</p> <p>In Germany, AVM!Fritz is a very popular AP solution (it is even common that home ISPs simply make their devices obligatory), however they are regularly racing to make their systems so un-configurable as possible; and this added them to my blacklist. I did the same by Cisco, on similar reason (they are also wanting regularly a lot of money for firmware updates, and their relative recent devices from 2013 had a weak signal strength).</p> <p>My ideal image is that I could simply ssh into the AP to reconfigure it.</p> <p>It should be also acceptable to layman bosses. Thus, it should be an AP with a Google-able manufacturer name (not bad if it is not common, but it needs to have a name). I should be able to point that "I found this (link) device from ..., I suggest to buy it for ...", and it should look as a reasonable suggestion.</p> <p>Actually, any AP is okay, if</p> <ol> <li>The manufacturer is googleable.</li> <li>I can modify its firmware without hardware hacks. No problem, if it causes warranty loss.</li> </ol>

Easily rootable, Linux-based Wifi AP acceptable in a corporate environment

<p>The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ball Grid Array</a> used in the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/124969/intel-core-i5-8350u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Core i5-8350U</a> CPU of the <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-t-series/ThinkPad-T480/p/22TP2TT4800" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thinkpad T480</a> is factory-soldered, and I would not even try to remove it to upgrade the CPU for any one of three choices:</p> <p>1) Unsoldering and resoldering BGA CPUS is very difficult without factory-level tools</p> <p>2) The chipset, also permanently soldered onto the motherboard, limits your CPU choices.</p> <p>3) Laptops are very carefully designed to exhaust waste heat, and adding a hotter CPU likely shortens the lifetime of the other components. You're limited to 25W maximum <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TDP</a>, 10W normal for safe operation.</p> <p><strong>Alternatives:</strong> </p> <p>A) If you need more GPU, likely since the T480 relied on the Intel UHD Graphics 620 in the APU, an <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N1070IXEB-8GD#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">external GPU device</a> can be added, connecting via the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C / Intel Thunderbolt 3 (Power Delivery, DisplayPort, Data transfer) interface. </p> <p>B) You may also consider upgrading the PCIe (NVMe) drive, following instructions starting on page 69 of your <a href="https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/t480_hmm_en.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">hardware manual</a>, if you are bound by drive performance. That would require finding the model of drive you now have before shopping for a <a href="https://www.windowscentral.com/best-solid-state-drives-increase-performance-windows-10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">faster drive</a>, but Lenovo's tech specs for that device don't show that information. Therefore, I'd suggest (assuming Windows, since you did not mention Linux):</p> <ul> <li>Click "Start" and navigate to the control panel. </li> <li>Select "Systems and Maintenance." </li> <li>Click the "Device Manager," then "Disk Drives." </li> <li>You can get detailed information about your hard drive on this screen, including your serial number.</li> </ul>

13183

2020-04-01T13:50:29.447

|processor|intel|upgrade|

<p>I have a Thinkpad T480 that has the stock <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/124969/intel-core-i5-8350u-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-60-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Intel Core i5-8350U</a> vPro MB (1.70ghz) CPU in it. It really just is not enough CPU for what I do with it once I dock it and hook it up to my dual monitors. I haven't been able to find any information on compatible CPUs or if the upgrade is just plug and play or if its soldered. I was thinking of upgrading to an Intel i7-9700 9th generation but I don't know if it is compatible or not. Just hoping for a recommendation on what to purchase that will fit.</p>

CPU Upgrade Recommendations Thinkpad T480

<p>For the foreseeable future, in an entry-level personal computer, PCIe 4.0 is rather nice-to-have instead of a must-have. Or to put it differently: there are much better ways to spend excess budget than on this feature. more RAM, (larger) SSD, faster CPU, faster GPU, you name it.<br> Very few devices benefit from the increased bandwidth in a way that would be noticeable to the end-user. WiFi is definitely not one of them, the bandwidth here is not even close to saturating PCIe 3.0 links. You also would need a PCIe 4.0 capable motherboard to unlock this feature. So far, only X570 motherboards have PCIe 4.0 in the consumer space. And these are way to expensive to be justified in a budget PC. In addition to that, a Ryzen 3400G does not even have PCIe 4.0. The Ryzen 3000 APUs are still based on the Zen1 architecture, hence only PCIe 3.0.</p>

13193

2020-04-01T19:16:05.413

|processor|pcie|

<p>I'm building my first gaming pc, and I have a question about PCI express versions. I'm looking to purchase a CPU for a budget system. I'm torn between two of them, the AMD Ryzen 5 2600, and the 3400g. From what I've researched, the 2600 is faster, put it has one problem. It only has PCI express 3.0, instead of the newer 4.0. I did the research, and PCIe 4.0 has double the bandwidth. I use wireless connection for my internet. Can someone explain this to me? Do I need double the Bandwidth or is it just a nice perk to have? Much appreciated.</p>

I have a question about bandwidth and the key differences between PCI express versions

<p>if you can buy the GTX1650, ignore the </p> <p>R5 2400G = 4 cores 3.6 GHz base 3.9 GHz boost clock RX11 Vega graphics for the card is far superior to onboard graphics. </p> <p>So, it's a battle for your budget, when it's time to buy, of the the </p> <p>R5 1600 = 6 cores 3.2 GHz base 3.6 GHz boost clock </p> <p>vs. </p> <p>R5 3600 = 6 cores 3.6 GHz base 4.2 GHz boost clock (3500 discontinued) </p> <p>plus <a href="https://www.pcworld.com/article/3539431/amds-b550-motherboards-will-bring-pcie-4-0-to-the-masses-99-ryzen-3-cpu-in-tow.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">whatever else AMD comes out with</a>. </p>

13197

2020-04-02T16:51:28.590

|processor|android|video-editing|ryzen|

<p>I'm going to build a pc for video editing, android studio and gaming at 1080p in future by adding gtx 1650 super but am confused between 3 processors</p> <ol> <li>Ryzen 5 1600 at 8200 Rs</li> <li>Ryzen 5 3500 at 10000 Rs</li> <li>Ryzen 5 2400G at 9700 Rs</li> </ol> <p>Which of them will be suitable for my needs i will not able to buy gpu till three month after this build so getting worry if i go for 1600 or 3500 without gpu how it will boot up but if i go with Apu i have to compromise with cores and threads which leads to more time in export videos at 1080p and 4k so if there is any solution please let me know.</p>

Amd Cpu Or Apu Under 10k

<p>Don't buy or use a color laser printer. The <a href="https://www.eff.org/pages/list-printers-which-do-or-do-not-display-tracking-dots" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EFF has been advised</a> "all major manufacturers of color laser printers entered a secret agreement with governments to ensure that the output of those printers is forensically traceable".</p>

13212

2020-04-05T22:55:05.097

|printer|

<p>This <a href="https://getpocket.com/explore/item/why-printers-add-secret-tracking-dots" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BBC article</a> documents how some printers <a href="https://blog.erratasec.com/2017/06/how-intercept-outed-reality-winner.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">secretly print faint dots</a> which <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_Identification_Code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">identify the printer</a> as well as the date and time a page is printed.</p> <p>How do I choose a printer which won't do this? </p>

How do I avoid my printed pages tracking me?

<p>USB-C hubs with power pass-through are fairly common. Often sold with the <a href="https://www.usb.org/usb-charger-pd" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Power Delivery (PD)</a> mark followed by the power rating for that device. <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07GDHD3VC" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> is one such hub that I use regularly to connect peripherals and charge simultaneously. However, this hub does not have a USB-C slave connection. </p> <p>Hubs that also have a port for a USB-C slave device are more rare. Since you want to have an attached device that is also USB-C, I would recommend <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07XF5489G" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>. You plug your main device (phone/laptop) into male connection, your USB-C device that is the slave (flash memory, etc) into the bottom port, and the charger plugs into the port on the side. </p> <p>Example:</p> <pre><code> Laptop ---[_Hub_]---- Phone | Charger </code></pre>

13214

2020-04-06T11:26:04.820

|usb|usb-c|

<p>Is there a device that allows two or more connected USB devices to communicate, yet their power be supplied by an external source (such as a USB power bank or charger).</p> <p>I tried to make this illustration to clarify what I mean.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TS885.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TS885.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

A USB C device with Pass-through Data between devices and External Charger

<p>Yes, it is a two dimensional array. </p> <p>You won't see a grid, as human vision isn't good enough. </p> <p>Let's engage in <a href="https://www.britannica.com/science/Gedankenexperiment" rel="nofollow noreferrer">gedankenexperiment</a>. Let's pretend your 19" (diagonal) display is 1920x1280, in a 16:9 aspect ratio. (<em>Please substitute your own data for the display diagonal, horizontal, and vertical size.</em>) The line from A to B, or the line <em>c</em>, below is 19".</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLov8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLov8.png" alt="Illustration of right triangle"></a></p> <p><em>c</em>^2 = <em>a</em>^2 + <em>b</em>^2 as per the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_triangle#Pythagorean_theorem" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pythagorean theorem</a></p> <p>19*19 = <em>a</em>^2 + <em>b</em>^2</p> <p>361 = <em>a</em>^2 + <em>b</em>^2 where <em>a</em> = (9/16) times <em>b</em> (derived from our 16:9 aspect ratio)</p> <p>361 = (9/16)<em>b</em> times (9/16)<em>b</em> + <em>b</em>^2</p> <p>361= 81/144 times <em>b</em>^2 + <em>b</em>^2</p> <p>361 = 0.5625 times <em>b</em>^2 + <em>b</em>^2</p> <p>361 = 1.5625 times <em>b</em>^2</p> <p>231.04 = <em>b</em>^2</p> <p>15.2" = <em>b</em> which has 1,920 pixels, so there are 126.3 pixels per inch. You can't see that fine.</p>

13224

2020-04-07T18:04:53.177

|laptop|monitors|

<p>An image is a 2d array with each point denoting a color combination of basic RGB (one pixel, basically). So, when it is displayed or relayed to laptop/desktop monitor, how does it work? Is the monitor a 2d array, i.e, if we open up the monitor are we supposed to see any grid structure?</p>

Is laptop/desktop monitor screen a 2d array?

<p>1) Use Plenum rated cable which is more heat tolerant, such as <a href="https://www.l-com.com/ethernet-cat6a-f-utp-cmp-plenum-rated-high-temp-105-degree-28awg-4-pair-stranded-slim-line-blue-1kft" rel="nofollow noreferrer">L-Com bulk cable</a>, which tolerates up to 105 degrees Centigrade.</p> <p>2) Add <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=solar%20powered%20soffit%20fans" rel="nofollow noreferrer">solar powered soffit fans</a> to cool the attic space, which has the beneficial side effect of lowering your A/C cost. </p> <p>3) Do both.</p>

13228

2020-04-08T23:20:41.190

|networking|cable|

<p>I would like to make some significant upgrades to my home network which, right now, is comprised of a cable modem, wireless router, and a few wireless devices in various rooms. But wireless is nowhere near as fast as a wired connection, plus I'm adding some PoE cameras which will obviously require PoE. The hardware I need is pretty clear, but I'm concerned about running Ethernet cable in my attic considering that I live in Las Vegas, NV, which is EXTREMELY hot in the summer months (sometimes 115 degrees F). My assumption is that the attic probably exceeds the maximum operating temperature of most Ethernet cables (some are rated for up to 167 degrees F), but I don't actually know the precise temperature in the attic during the summer.</p> <p>Given that Las Vegas is a modern city I can only presume that others have overcome this issue. Or maybe I'm overestimating the heat in my attic. My roof uses a light-colored terracotta tile, so I'm sure that's better than a black roof but don't really know. Any recommendations?</p>

Cat6A Runs in Hot Attic

<p>It isn't going to fit.</p> <p>The LGA <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_775" rel="nofollow noreferrer">775 socket CPUs</a> are a different form factor, 37.5mm square, than the <a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/126687/intel-core-i5-8400-processor-9m-cache-up-to-4-00-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">i5-8400</a> which uses an LGA 1151 socket. </p> <p>The distance between the screw-holes for the heatsink of an LGA 775 is 72 mm. Such heatsinks are not interchangeable with heatsinks for sockets that have a distance of 75 mm, such as the i5-8400 which uses the LGA 1151 socket.</p>

13230

2020-04-09T03:25:39.543

|processor|intel|heat-sink|

<p>I got my hands on an old PC heat sink, intel 775 I think.</p> <p>Will this fit on my i5-8400 8th gen?</p> <p>And if it does, what side does it go on? </p> <p>The copper core is indented on one side and sticks out the other</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ceiOI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ceiOI.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JReHU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JReHU.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

Will old Intel copper heat sink fit on new 8th generation CPU?

<p>From Passmarks own version log: <a href="https://www.passmark.com/products/performancetest/history.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.passmark.com/products/performancetest/history.php</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xcZi.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xcZi.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>It's just that: a bunch of benchmarks cobbled together into a single score. Only the devs know how well these benchmarks scale to multiple threads, and how they weigh the individual results to condense them into a final score. So maybe don't focus too much on this.</p> <p>Let's rather look at the CPUs themselves. A 3900X has a 50% higher core count compared to a 3800X. And it increases almost all CPU resources by at least 50%. Some shared resources like L3 cache even increase by 100%. If we stopped here, it would be safe to assume that the 3900X is 50% faster than the 3800X, at least in multi-threaded benchmarks with ideal scaling. With 2 notable exceptions:<br> 1) Thermal design power is the same. This causes the 3900X to run at lower clock speeds when all cores are loaded heavily. Dropping the performance increase to a bit less than 50%, at least if the user does not overclock.<br> 2) Memory bandwidth. While the 3900X has almost double the write memory bandwidth compared to the 3800X (due to 2 chiplets vs. 1 and limited bandwidth from chiplets to the IO-die), the read memory bandwidth is practically the same. This causes less than 50% performance advantage in benchmarks (and applications) that become memory bandwidth limited at higher thread counts. </p> <p>In conclusion: The 3900X can be nearly 50% faster than the 3800X in multi-threaded benchmarks and applications. But as always, it depends on the application.</p>

13233

2020-04-09T09:49:27.143

|processor|ryzen|

<p>What does the Cross-Platform Rating in a Price performance comparison page of a CPU on <a href="https://www.passmark.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PassMark</a> mean? What kind of performance does it reflect? It seems the kind of performance it reflects is more like what Average CPU Mark does, which is basically multi-core performance. If so, what is the difference between these 2 numbers?</p> <p>More specifically in my case, I am comparing these 3 CPUs to decide which one to buy: <a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/AMD-Ryzen-7-3800X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3900X-vs-AMD-Ryzen-9-3950X/3499vs3493vs3598" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AMD Ryzen 7 3800X vs AMD Ryzen 9 3900X vs AMD Ryzen 9 3950X</a>. The CPU Mark of the 3900X is lower than 3/2 of that of the 3800X, while the Cross-Platform Rating of the 3900X is higher than 3/2 of that of the 3800X. I am going after multi-core performance, so I am wondering whether the 3900X gives me 3/2 of multi-core performance compared to the 3800X.</p>

What does the Cross-Platform Rating on PassMark mean? What kind of performance does it reflect?

<p>The cable for dual RCA jack audio output and also for 3.5mm ring-sleeve-tip auto jack output is included with the device, as is the power supply, so it's complete. </p> <p>For one Euro less, I would go for the <a href="https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07W4JHGKS/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07W4JHGKS/</a> which includes the 3.5mm cable and delivers 50W RMS, but the reviews on the product you chose show it's acceptable.</p> <p>For either, replacing the 12VDC power supply with a 24VDC power supply would provide more volume.</p> <p>Both are digital amps so you won't get the 'golden sound' an audiophile would want, but I'd accept it.</p>

13246

2020-04-10T11:38:28.883

|pc|audio|speakers|music|amplifiers|

<p>I found some Canton passive speakers and connected them with an audio jack cable to my PC but nothing happened. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJwTt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJwTt.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> I did some research and found out that these are passive speakers and they need an amplifier.</p> <p>Then I looked for an amplifier on Amazon and found this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r792r.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r792r.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I thought amplifiers were big chunks so I am not sure this little thing does the work of the middleman to play music from my laptop to the speakers.</p> <p>The amp Amazon link: <a href="https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B01LY7RYQO/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&amp;keywords=verst%C3%A4rker&amp;qid=1586534369&amp;sr=8-10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B01LY7RYQO/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&amp;keywords=verst%C3%A4rker&amp;qid=1586534369&amp;sr=8-10</a></p> <p>Do you know if that amp will work and what else do I need to make this work?</p>

Will this amplifier connect these speakers to my PC?

<p>When I hear you ask for a module, I think of an Arduino "Shield" but you dont need one of these. You can connect what you need directly to the board, but it will be easier if you use a <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/4Pcs-MCIGICM-Point-Solderless-Breadboard/dp/B08115P2T4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">breadboard</a>. </p> <p>There is a really good paper <a href="http://www.robots.ox.ac.uk/~neil/teaching/lectures/med_elec/notes8.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> that describes the measurement process and even shows the low-pass amplifier they used to read from the pressure sensor. You can place only the sensor inside the inflated portion and have the rest outside, or you can use a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01N47LZ4P" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">full module</a> that is placed inside the chamber. </p> <p>You will also need an <a href="https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sparkfun-electronics/ROB-10398/1568-1344-ND/5684377" rel="nofollow noreferrer">air pump</a> to inflate, and a <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/4inch-Normally-Closed-Electric-Solenoid/dp/B074Z5SDG3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">solenoid valve</a> to deflate. Both the pump and solenoid use 12V, so you will need a <a href="https://www.robotshop.com/en/4-channel-5v-relay-shield-module.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwssD0BRBIEiwA-JP5rJaHUD04ANRDE-ncjO4qd4qfJHGT3BT2Ik3MTv6_Ye1geRmE3RP2ZhoCTZwQAvD_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">set of relays</a>. Make sure that you have a way to restrict the airflow out, so that it deflates slow enough to get precise measurements. </p>

13248

2020-04-10T16:48:33.903

|arduino|

<p>I need to record blood pressure with a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sphygmomanometer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">blood pressure cuff</a> interfaced to an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino uno</a> module so the data can be logged. I searched the web for a such a device, but could not found anything useful.</p> <p>Which modules should I look for?</p>

Need a blood-pressure measuring module recommendation for arduino

<p>Additional logic is required in the motherboard's chipset which your Toshiba does not have (after a review of its specifications, linked in your question above). So, it will not work. </p> <p>Also, PCIe SSDs AKA NVMe have a slightly different connector than SATA SSDs as shown below.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DhpyW.png" alt="NVMe M.2 SSD"></a><br> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lw28g.png" alt="SATA M.2 SSD"></a> </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIwjb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIwjb.jpg" alt="M.2 connector types"></a> </p> <p>I can't see an M.2 connector in the photo, so I looked for other photos, and <a href="https://laptopmedia.com/highlights/inside-toshiba-satellite-p50-c-disassembly-internal-photos-and-upgrade-options/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">found a wider and sharper photo</a> from <a href="https://laptopmedia.com/highlights/inside-toshiba-satellite-p50-c-disassembly-internal-photos-and-upgrade-options/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this page</a>. There's no connector for any M.2 drive, so you must use a 2.5" SATA SSD to replace the original <a href="https://www.notebookcheck.net/Toshiba-MQ02ABD100H-Benchmarked.440721.0.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Toshiba MQ02ABD100H HDD</a>. Here's a <a href="https://images.app.goo.gl/QvdcJkenJdVm6TUM7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">video showing how to open it up</a>.</p> <p>What you had circled to the right above the ribbon cable connecting the motherboard to an i/o daughterboard is where an M.2 connector might have gone, as evidenced by the post which looks like the right size to hold a fastening screw for the left side of an M.2 card, but there's no connector for it at the left side on the circuit board. It's very common to reuse circuit boards for different models and only put the connectors on the board which are required for a specific model. </p>

13265

2020-04-13T13:05:24.360

|laptop|motherboard|ssd|pcie|upgrade|

<p>I have a <a href="https://il.dynabook.com/en/discontinued-products/satellite-p50-c-10g/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TOSHIBA P50-C-10G</a> laptop. and want to upgrade the internal drive from HDD to SSD. I am considering either SATA or NVMe, but I'm not sure if my computer has support for NVMe. I opened it up and found what looks to be a motherboard port for the NVMe card, but it doesn't have the dock to put the card in it. The pictures are down below. Is it possible to somehow add the dock and would it even be supported?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iTFm5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iTFm5.jpg" alt="NVME port 1"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLRzd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLRzd.jpg" alt="NVME port 2"></a></p> <p>P.S. If there is a better forum or stackexchange site, please let me know.</p>

Can I add an NVMe SSD to my motherboard?

<p>Your laptop can hold a 2.5" SATA SSD like the Samsung 860 Evo. So a clear yes to your question.<br> It can also be expanded with an m.2 NVMe SSD, in case you want to keep your hard drive for more total storage.</p>

13275

2020-04-14T23:52:36.527

|laptop|hard-disk|ssd|

<p>I want to replace a HDD (Seagate <a href="https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/mobile-hddDS1861-2-1603-en_US.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ST1000LM035-1RK172</a>) in a <a href="https://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/flex_5-1470_5-1570_hmm_201703.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo Flex 5-1570 (Type 81CA)</a> with an SSD. I am looking for 500 GB or 1 TB. Is this SSD <a href="https://www.walmart.com/ip/SAMSUNG-1TB-860-EVO-Series-2-5-SATA-III-Internal-SSD-Single-Unit-Version-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/201411818?fbclid=IwAR3_JvxvmBvj8Sn_ktVN0Nu89KPpEFhcrGcGaJw4HW7Ln4ErG7s9TzuqCss" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SAMSUNG 1TB 860 EVO-Series 2.5</a> compatible for my Lenovo ? </p>

How to buy the right comptabile SDD drive to my lenovou labtop

<p>There are indeed fields of computing where Intel's X299 lineup still performs better than AMD's Ryzen 3000 series. And even offers better performance per dollar. Engineering/scientific simulations like CFD and FEA is one of these areas. Source: I have been working in this field for many years now. </p> <p>You already mentioned the key specification here: memory bandwidth. AMDs Ryzen CPUs stop scaling at around 6-8 cores due to a lack of memory bandwidth when running parallel CFD codes. See for example the results here: <a href="https://www.cfd-online.com/Forums/hardware/198378-openfoam-benchmarks-various-hardware-14.html#post763993" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.cfd-online.com/Forums/hardware/198378-openfoam-benchmarks-various-hardware-14.html#post763993</a></p> <p>Intel CPUs can draw a lot more power than their rated TDP for short periods of time. That's how turbo boost works. So can AMD CPUs. Unless you are overclocking heavily, you won't see 300W sustained power draw from an I9-10900X. Not even close <a href="https://www.anandtech.com/show/15039/the-intel-core-i9-10980xe-review/2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.anandtech.com/show/15039/the-intel-core-i9-10980xe-review/2</a></p> <p>Less than 50W idle power consumption for a whole system on an HEDT platform might be a bit optimistic. You will probably end up in the 70W range with a typical configuration. But this figure does not depend on the CPU alone. Motherboard, drives, GPU... all play a role here.</p> <p>Why doesn't AMD release a Threadripper CPU with less than 24 cores, at a more reasonable price? </p> <p>I can only speculate, and there will be a lot more reasons than I can come up with in a short paragraph. But one of the most important ones will be this: AMD is a relatively small company compared to Intel. So far, their goal is not to cover every niche possible with the perfect product. That was Intels goal. And let's face it: scientific and engineering computations on moderately priced workstation PCs is a niche application.</p> <p>More L3 cache is nice to have, but outside of edge-cases, it can not completely make up for a lack of memory bandwidth.</p> <p>Btw: if you are looking for a cheaper TR3000 alternative that better fits your requirements, AMD still has something in their lineup: Epyc 7302P. The CPU and the boards are not exactly cheap, but still much better value and higher total performance compared to the cheapest possible TR3000 build.</p> <p><strong>Edit</strong> forgot to mention this: especially with your applications in mind, I would highly recommend faster memory than DDR4-2933 or DDR4-3200 for both AMD Ryzen 3000 and Intel Cascade Lake-X CPUs. DDR4-3600 is around the sweetspot for price/performance.</p>

13276

2020-04-15T00:23:24.133

|processor|

<p>Which is better for scientific and engineering computation/simulations, the Intel i9-10900X or the AMD R9-3950X? </p> <p>The R9 has 6 more cores, whereas the i9 has doubled memory channels.</p> <p>Is it possible that in many use cases R9's real performance is limited by DDR bandwidth?</p> <p>R9's TDP is 105W, i9's TDP is 165W, but there are rumors that i9's real power can be 300W+ at normal full load.</p> <p>What are the zero and light load whole system power consumption? Hope it is less than ~50W.</p> <p>Don't know why all AMD's CPU with 4 memory channels are far more expensive or why doesn't AMD have a CPU with 4 memory channel with ~12 cores.</p> <p>R9 also have more cache: 72MB. <a href="https://images.anandtech.com/doci/15062/AMD%20Fall%20Desktop%20Announcement%20Briefing%20Deck-page-002.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://images.anandtech.com/doci/15062/AMD%20Fall%20Desktop%20Announcement%20Briefing%20Deck-page-002.jpg</a></p> <p>R9's DDR frequency is a higher than i9: 3200 VS 2933, DDR bandwith is 51GB/s VS 93GB/s</p>

Choosing a CPU: Intel i9-109xx vs AMD R9-39xx

<p>In the end I went with the Logitech K800. Watched many videos of top rated keyboards and many were still as loud, if not louder than my current one. Even top mechanical ones with low key were surprisingly loud in the videos. The K800 was extrememly quiet and although well above my initial budget, it seemed to be exactly what I was looking for.</p>

13287

2020-04-16T10:32:11.827

|keyboards|

<p>Years back I bought the cheapest Logitech keyboard for my computer as I felt they "are all the same!". I hadn't used it in a while, but since working from home now I'm using a lot and it has really dawned on me the last couple of weeks just how loud and stiff the keys are. I'm pretty certain my neighbour two doors down can here me tapping at the keys it's that loud. Each key feels like a brick when I'm pressing it so I really need to upgrade.</p> <p>What are people on here using or could recommend? I'll be primarily using it for programming, with some use of Photoshop and gaming at some point.</p>

New keyboard for programming wanted

<p>It will run these programs. How well depends on your expectations. It's a dual-core CPU with relatively low clock speeds. At least the RAM is configured in dual-channel mode, but it's only 8GB, and can not be upgraded. Same with the tiny SSD. While that could technically be upgraded, it is not straightforward at all. Ifixit gave it a 1 out of 10 for repairability <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Microsoft+Surface+Book+Teardown/51972" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Microsoft+Surface+Book+Teardown/51972</a></p> <p>If I had 500$ with your requirements, I would get something like a Thinkpad T460p with a quad-core CPU. While it may not look as sexy as a surface book, it can easily be upgraded and serviced. The latter is a rather important trait for used laptops. And it beats the Surface Book in the performance department.</p>

13288

2020-04-16T10:52:16.310

|laptop|

<p>May I know whether Microsoft Surface Book capable for running Mechanical Engineering apps efficiently?</p> <p>I am using software such as MATLAB with simulink, STK, AutoCAD, solidworks, and ANSYS workbench.</p> <p>I am a research student and my next laptop should be travel supportive, and fir within a budget of 500 Euros.</p> <p>Microsoft Surface Book, i5, 6th generation 128 SSD, 8 GB RAM are the specs of this laptop. </p>

Is the Microsoft Surface Book capable for running Mechanical Engineering apps efficiently?

<p><strong>The Workstation</strong></p> <p>The cheap route is to use a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07GDHD3VC" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB-C Hub</a>. I have used this one across many devices and can vouch for it. </p> <p>The fancy way, you can get a <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/CalDigit-TS3-Plus-Thunderbolt-Dock/dp/B07CZPV8DF" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB-C Dock</a> that is basically the same thing but is meant to be stationary, so has its own power supply and more functionality. </p> <p>Both of the above options would turn your desk into a generic "Work Station" at which you could sit down with any USB-C device and connect to all your peripherals. </p> <p><strong>KVM</strong></p> <p>If you want to have both computers at the same desk always on and easily swap back and forth, you are looking for a KVM (Keyboard Video Mouse). Unfortunately, USB-C is relatively new and I do not know of any that run directly from USB-C yet available. </p> <p>There are may kinds of KVMs available. Some <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/CKL-Monitor-Extended-Display-CKL-922HUA/dp/B07KVJ54X2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">split video cables</a>, some <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/Selector-ABLEWE-Switcher-Peripheral-One-Button/dp/B07TS5JNT3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">split USB connections</a>, and others that <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/Supports-Control-Computers-Servers-DVR-HDMI/dp/B07SGX5D2G" rel="nofollow noreferrer">split both separately</a>. You could convert from USB-C to USB-A and then go to one of these. </p> <p><strong>What to look for</strong></p> <p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB-C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB-C</a> is the connection and is part of <a href="https://thunderbolttechnology.net/consumer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thunderbolt 3</a> but the two are <a href="https://www.howtogeek.com/449991/thunderbolt-3-vs.-usb-c-whats-the-difference/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">not the same</a>. </p> <p>You can charge many devices through the same port you connect to the hub. The first device I listed has this functionality, known as power pass-through. Often sold with the <a href="https://www.usb.org/usb-charger-pd" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Power Delivery (PD)</a> mark followed by the power rating for that device.</p> <p>If you are going to use one computer on each monitor and want to share a mouse and keyboard, you can use software like <a href="https://symless.com/synergy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Synergy</a>. It's a great software that I have used many times. </p> <p><strong>Note</strong></p> <p>There are several very similar questions on this site and no perfect answers. It's a messy area to search for, but once you know what your looking for you can find the solution that works best for you. </p> <p><strong>Edit: Answer to comment</strong></p> <p>For keyboard and mouse, there will be absolutely no problem going to USB-A. The only problem is that you said your computer only has USB-C outputs and no video output. I would recommend going from laptop to <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Ethernet-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B071G83L1J" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this cheaper hub</a> and then from this hub's HDMI and USB-A to the above linked KVM. Use the first Hub I linked in the exact same way if you also want power pass-through. </p>

13293

2020-04-16T17:57:57.373

|usb|hdmi|displays|switch|usb-c|

<p>I have a notebook PC with 2 micro-USB Type C ports and no other video output, and a PC with DVI and HDMI.</p> <p>I have two other monitors, both of them have HDMI, DVI, and VGA ports, and if I recall correctly, DisplayPort as well.</p> <p>Finally I have a USB keyboard and mouse.</p> <p>I would like to buy some device that will be connected to all monitors and to the USB mouse / keyboard, and that will allow me to use both computers with the same keyboard / mouse, selecting witch monitor to use (also both) for each specific computer.</p> <p>Any advice?</p>

USB switch for monitors

<p>I will recommend you to go with 256GB SSD and install Windows/Ubuntu on it, Performance will increase a lot. I regularly upgrade older system with ssd and use HDD as storage. Go for it.</p> <p>You could buy an internal 2.5&quot; SSD, then use it in the desktop. Later you could buy an enclosure and put the internal 2.5&quot; SSD into the enclosure to use it as an external drive.</p> <p>You could use the external drive on multiple computers, even boot from it if the system supports USB boot. You would need to make sure all systems support uefi or legacy (mbr) and format the external to the partition standard you choose on the systems.</p> <p>This question is about how to <a href="https://askubuntu.com/questions/446682/how-to-install-ubuntu-on-portable-external-hard-drive">install Ubuntu on an external drive</a>.</p>

13305

2020-04-17T13:39:59.887

|laptop|ssd|ubuntu|

<p>I want to buy an external drive to run SSD, without touching my Windows HDD. However, this is a little investment so I am wondering if you can answer my few questions. Here are my laptop specs:</p> <ul> <li>Intel Core i3</li> <li>6GB RAM</li> <li>1 To HDD (Windows 10)</li> <li>No graphic card</li> </ul> <p>Honestly, it runs very slowly, 5-10 minutes to startup, ~1 minute to start Microsoft Word. This is not the best laptop but this is not the question here. The questions are:</p> <ol> <li>Is a HDD sufficient or it will run slowly as on Windows.</li> <li>Can all external SSD run Ubuntu, or I have to buy one in particular</li> <li>I am sure 256 GB is sufficient but are you sure it is? I would use Ubuntu time to time, for programming, and I won’t store any personnal data or whatever except code.</li> </ol> <p>I have already tried Dual Boot and it was good but I want another drive for Ubuntu now (don’t try to change my mind)</p> <p>Thank you for your answers!</p>

Is buying a SSD for Ubuntu a good deal?

<p>Since you can not overclock memory on Intels current "Bxxx" motherboards, no matter which memory you buy, it will run at DDR4-2133, the slowest common denominator. </p> <p>I would not expect any compatibility issues with these low memory frequencies.<br> It may be possible to overclock to DDR4-2666, but you can't really know until you tried. I would not count on that. </p> <p>Edit: by the way, there is no "too fast" for memory. All higher end memory can be run at lower frequencies. It's just a waste of money.</p>

13306

2020-04-17T13:54:24.887

|motherboard|memory|desktop|compatibility|

<p>I'm planning to update some components on my PC and I want to know if I can buy two more modules of RAM without compatibility issues. </p> <p>This is the new motherboard I will be buying, a <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B365M-DS3H-rev-10#kf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte B365M-DS3H</a>. It has 4 slots for RAM; now, I only have 2 on my <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-H110M-S2H-rev-10#ov" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2H</a>. </p> <p>I want to buy the two remaining RAM modules and go for the 32GB of RAM (8GB x4) because sometimes 16GB is small for my work. Currently I have two <code>HyperX Fury DDR4 2133 C14 8GB</code> (CPU-Z says: DDR4-2134, Part number KHX2133C14D4/8GB) and I'm wondering if I could buy a pack of two of any of these newer models:</p> <ul> <li><code>Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2400Mhz PC-19200 2x8GB CL15</code></li> <li><code>Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 2666Mhz PC-21300 2x8GB CL16</code></li> <li><code>Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 3200Mhz PC-25600 2x8GB CL16</code> (Too fast for the motherboard?)</li> <li><code>Kingston HyperX Fury Black DDR4 3466Mhz PC-27700 2x8GB CL16</code> (Too fast for the motherboard?)</li> </ul> <p>My concern is that even though the new motherboard supports 2666/2400/2133 MHz, my older RAM runs at 2133MHz and it will be different compared to the new RAM. </p> <p>Is this a compatibility problem ?.</p>

Is there a compatibility problem with these RAM modules at different speeds?

<p>This list of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CPU_socket#List_of_x86_CPU_sockets_and_slots" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CPUs and their sockets</a> shows you would be limited to two very historical CPUs indeed, the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8088" rel="nofollow noreferrer">8088</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_8086" rel="nofollow noreferrer">8086</a>, if you use a DIP40 socket. </p> <p>Neither of those are 486-based, nor will they will execute the full 486 instruction set. To run the full 486 instruction set, you'd need a PGA socket (of which there are many, listed in the first link in the first sentence) or a slot (op cit.). </p> <p>I was repairing PCs, and teaching dealers how to repair them, back when CPUs came in slots, and I will tell you PGA sockets gave us a <em>lot</em> less trouble than slot-based CPUs.</p>

13313

2020-04-18T08:43:33.200

|processor|

<p>I want to build a PC; not like a gaming rig, but instead, a computer from <strong>scratch</strong>. </p> <p>There's a great set of videos <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnzuMJLZRdU&amp;list=PLowKtXNTBypFbtuVMUVXNR0z1mu7dp7eH" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>), but instead of the MOS 6502, a clone processor to make computing history, a 486-based processor. I automatically assume it would be easier if I used a processor with a DIP 40 socket instead of something with a ton of pins. It both just has less pins, which would be easier, and would be much easier for prototyping. I also need something power-efficient, because I plan to eventually put it into a laptop form factor. </p> <p>Not related to my processor question, but also, if there is a better site to post this question, please tell me. I barely ever ask questions on Stack Exchange. Anyways, suggestions are greatly appreciated.</p>

Which CPU should I use in my first scratch 486 build?

<p>We can do the math to calculate the power consumed by CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, and HDDs for each rail (bus, or voltage specific circuit) of the power supply ('PSU'), relying on the specs of each component. Go back to each manufacturer's website to find their spec sheets; don't rely on the reseller's data, and use the startup current as that's the maximum amperage .</p> <p>Available power from your 300W PSU per page 4 of the manual: </p> <pre><code> Votage * Amperage * Tolerance factor = Max Watts Rail Amp Tlrnc Watts +12V 22 0.96 253W -12V 0.5 0.89 5.3W +5V 20 0.94 94W * Max combined 103W +3.3V 21 0.94 65W * Max combined 103W SB 2.5 0.94 11.7 standby +5VDC The Tolerance factor allows for variations in the load and line regulation. </code></pre> <p>For example:</p> <p>Drive 1, the <a href="https://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/firecuda-family/firecuda/files/firecuda-2-5-ds1908-1-1609us.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Seagate ST1000LM014</a> uses 1 Amp at 5VDC at startup, or 5W on the +5V rail<br> Drive 2, the <a href="https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/barracuda-2-5-DS1907-2-1907US-en_US.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Seagate ST4000LM024</a> uses 1.2 Amps at 5VDC at startup, or 7W on the +5V rail.<br> But, the <a href="https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z97E-ITXac/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asrock Z97E-ITXac motherboard</a> has no power consumption data, so you'd need to contact <a href="https://event.asrock.com/tsd.asp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asrock support</a> to find what its maximum power draw would be, separate from the CPU, RAM, and other components. </p> <p>Adding 120-180W of additional power draw to a system with a 300W power supply is risky, and I would not do it without an accurate verification of what the current power consumption is. </p> <p>My conclusion: Upgrading the power supply would be wise.</p>

13351

2020-04-22T13:32:39.370

|graphics-cards|pc|power-supply|power|

<p>I currently have a system with an Intel CPU and an integrated GPU (see below). I am pondering adding a more powerful GPU, say, along the lines of these:</p> <p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1070-gv-n1070ixoc-8gd/p/N82E16814125893" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1070-gv-n1070ixoc-8gd/p/N82E16814125893</a> <a href="https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1060-gv-n1060ixoc-6gd/p/N82E16814125903?&amp;quicklink=true" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1060-gv-n1060ixoc-6gd/p/N82E16814125903?&amp;quicklink=true</a></p> <p>The specs of my system are as follows:</p> <p>Motherboard: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813157504?Item=N82E16813157504" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813157504?Item=N82E16813157504</a></p> <p>Memory (x2): <a href="https://www.newegg.com/corsair-8gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820233366?Item=N82E16820233366" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/corsair-8gb-240-pin-ddr3-sdram/p/N82E16820233366?Item=N82E16820233366</a></p> <p>Power Supply: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/silverstone-sfx-st30sf-300w/p/N82E16817256097?Item=N82E16817256097" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/silverstone-sfx-st30sf-300w/p/N82E16817256097?Item=N82E16817256097</a></p> <p>CPU + GPU: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/intel-core-i7-4th-gen-core-i7-4790k/p/N82E16819117369?Item=N82E16819117369" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/intel-core-i7-4th-gen-core-i7-4790k/p/N82E16819117369?Item=N82E16819117369</a></p> <p>CPU Cooler: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u9b-se2/p/N82E16835608016?Item=N82E16835608016" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u9b-se2/p/N82E16835608016?Item=N82E16835608016</a></p> <p>HDD1: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/seagate-1tb-st1000lm014/p/N82E16822178340?Item=N82E16822178340" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/seagate-1tb-st1000lm014/p/N82E16822178340?Item=N82E16822178340</a></p> <p>HDD2: <a href="https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-4tb-st4000lm024/p/N82E16822179105?Item=9SIAAY9AWM5481" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.newegg.com/seagate-barracuda-4tb-st4000lm024/p/N82E16822179105?Item=9SIAAY9AWM5481</a></p> <p>My question is whether adding the new graphics card will prove too much for the 300W power supply. The estimate I have made was 88W for the CPU, based on the so-called Thermal Design Power or the amount of heat the sink needs to dissipate. I also know that the new card will require about 120-180W of power, depending on the model. This leaves us with about 100 Watts for everything else in the machine.</p> <p>Basically, the question is whether I should be able to make this work without swapping the power supply. I really like the latter and am not sure whether the company still makes something similar. </p> <p>How can I estimate the power consumption of the rest of PC?</p> <p>How much "allowance" and "breathing room" should one have in form of the wattage not taken up by anything to make the system stable and not shut down suddenly because of lack of power? </p>

Adding Video Card to PC: Power and Wattage Considerations

<p>Small objects (like an 8 oz/237 ml ) cup of hot water will lose heat quickly, especially if uninsulated, so will exhibit a quick drop in temperature. </p> <p>A larger warm mass will hold its temperature for a longer period of time, as will an insulated mass. Therefore, use a vacuum-insulated ('Thermos'TM) bottle filled with warm water for your calibration. </p>

13371

2020-04-24T13:44:04.340

|thermal-imaging|

<p>I'm working on a software that measures the facial skin temperature, a kind of 'fever detector'; In order to test the software, I want to check if my detector correctly works with objects with temperatures around 37.5 - 39 C, but I cannot find a 'device' that can be used for such measurements. A kind of thermostat, but it should keep static temperature on its outer shell. I tried to use a cup with hot water, but its temperature is being decreasing too fast, I would like to have an object with static temperature. Any advices on which device or object can be used are highly appreciated.</p> <p>PS Soldering iron and Curling Hair with adjustable temperatures are working in too high temperatures range.</p>

Temperature detection > device with adjustable temperature

<p>Maybe a completely different solution. Regarding the 'not able to install software' : there is a whole ecosystem of 'Portable Applications'. These are applications that do not require any admin-rights or access to protected directories like Program Files or Windows.</p> <p>Often they can be "installed" by extracting a downloaded ZIP-file. For instance this one: <a href="https://www.portablefreeware.com/?id=1738" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.portablefreeware.com/?id=1738</a> ("prevent sleep"). </p> <p>However, you might want to run them by a virusscanner first. I have some experience in (my opinion) false positives, where the IT-guys forced me to reinstall my whole laptop because some 'heuristic scanner' found some programming techniques that hackers also employ.</p> <p>Furthermore, test if your screensaver/locker can be stopped just pressing the control or alt key. This doesn't yield real keystrokes but might prevent locking. Putting a weight on the control-key shouldn't be to difficult.</p> <p>Good luck!</p>

13373

2020-04-24T16:28:49.403

|touchpad|

<p>The problem is that my work laptop goes to sleep after 15 minutes. I have no control over these settings, I icannot install any software on the computer, nor can I plug in unauthorized USB devices.</p> <p>My thought is something that rests on the touchpad and somehow moves around (actual xy movement, rocking, or movement contained within the perimeter of the device. A wind-up toy that moves.</p> <p>What can you suggest?</p> <p>Edit: Having done more research, the best solution might be to modified an interactive cat toy that runs on AA batteries.</p>

Looking for device to keep laptop from sleeping

<p>Since the <a href="https://asus.com/us/Laptops/ZenBook-Duo-UX481FL" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer Zenbook Duo</a> only has DDR3 RAM, and the <a href="https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1660-Ti-Mobile-Max-Q-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-MX250/m789578vsm762458" rel="nofollow noreferrer">inferior MX250 GPU</a>, I'd rule that out. </p> <p>Your <a href="https://www.flipkart.com/acer-predator-helios-300-core-i7-9th-gen-16-gb-1-tb-hdd-256-gb-ssd-windows-10-home-6-graphics-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-ph315-52-76wx-ph315-52-77ya-gaming-laptop/p/itm64fa2e86e5aa9" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PH315-52-76WX</a> model of the Acer Predator Helios 300 looks like a good buy, but the <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gaming-TUF505DU-KB71-GTX1660Ti-Windows-Notebook/dp/B07S8D3C8J" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Model B07S8D3C8J TUF Gaming A15 with 256 GB M.2 NVMe SSD, Ryzen 7, and 1660Ti GPU</a> has a faster internal drive and WiFi 6, whereas the Predator only has WiFi 5. Of course, if you will use Ethernet instead of WiFi on large file transfers, that's irrelevant.</p> <p>The plastic chassis of the TUF may be less of a drawback since it has been <a href="https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/asus-tuf-gaming-a15-hands-on-review-amd-meets-nvidia" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tested to meet MIL-STD-810H standards</a>, and its 90 Watt-Hour (8+ hrs of web browsing) battery plus the 144Hz display at 1920x1080 is attractive. </p>

13377

2020-04-25T06:11:28.200

|laptop|graphics-cards|processor|memory|intel|

<p>My desktop has an <code>i3-4130</code> along with <code>4 GB RAM</code> and no dedicated graphics card. I am about to get a laptop, and want to evaluate these three:</p> <p><strong>Acer Predator Helios 300</strong> - <code>Core i7-9750, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti</code></p> <p><strong>Asus Zenbook Duo</strong> - <code>Core i7-10510U, 16 GB RAM (DDR3), 1 TB SSD, 2 GB GeForce MX250</code></p> <p><strong>Asus TUF Gaming A15</strong> - <code>AMD Ryzen 7 4800H, 16 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD, 256 GB SSD, 6 GB GeForce 1660Ti</code></p> <p><em>[There's some uncertainity in models of A15]</em></p> <p>I'm just a student but I like programming so I do use Android Studio, Visual Studio Code, PyCharm, and some other IDEs which require less resources than how much Android Studio does. </p> <p>Sometimes I need to create my own assets for my application, so I use PhotoShop.</p> <p>I do make some videos for YouTube and I wish to use Adobe After Effects which I have actually used once on my desktop and as you will expect it ofcourse took my an hour to render a short video. </p> <p>Each of the above laptop have some attributes that I like but are confusing me. My first preference is the Predator Helios 300 for sure, except it's battery but this is acceptable because it's just powerful. </p> <p>Actual confusion arises due to Asus A15 which is launched recently (yet to be launched in India) because the processor as per I've heard is faster than the <code>i7</code>. But again, some people said me that I should go for Intel because it's reliable. I don't know if AMD lasts less than Intel. Should be a Myth just like when people compare Snapdragon and Mediatek. <em>[Asus TUF Gaming F15 has Intel Intel® Core™ i7 10750H but looks like this one will take a long time to arrive especially in India]</em> </p> <p>Also A15 has a plastic build with 3 heat sinks while Predator is all metal with 4 heat sinks. </p> <p>Coming to the last one, I definitely wanted the Zenbook Duo for its second screen which indeed is very useful. But, it has <code>DDR3 RAM</code>, weaker graphics, and only 2GB of video RAM. It does have a 10th Generation i7, but it is labelled <code>U</code>, meaning it is low powered. </p> <p>As I have mentioned earlier I need to use After Effects so I can drop idea of getting the Zenbook Duo.</p> <p>[<em>Zenbook PRO Duo is way too much expensive than these 3 so that's not an option for me</em>] </p> <p>TUF Gaming A15 is available with 90Wh battery which could be helpful. There isn't much difference else. But plastic body, can it be less rigid than Predator? That's why I'm confused else Predator is a good choice.</p> <p>The aggressive gaming style of laptop won't be a problem; the Predator looks nothing less than a beast. I would be mostly home and wrapped around that charger, but even if I'm out, the Predator gives at least 2-3 hours of battery life [on light tasks, anyways won't be gaming outside of course] so shouldn't be an issue.</p> <p>Which one should I go for? All these laptops are in price range of around <code>1300-1500 USD [1 - 1.20 lakh INR]</code>.</p> <p>Also I hope it won't affect the performance if the laptop was released 1 year. The Predator, was launched in April 2019.</p>

Which of the mentioned laptops should be better for my needs?

<p>Dell's <a href="https://www.dell.com/koa/search?q=inspiron%202-in-1#q=inspiron%202-in-1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Inspiron 2-in-1</a>, Lenovo's <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Lenovo%20Thinkpad%20S1%20Yoga%20Touchscreen%20Laptop%2C%20Intel%20Core%20i5&amp;ref=nb_sb_noss" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ThinkPad S1 Yoga</a>, and some HP Touchscreen PCs are the only major competition to the Microsoft Surface devices, but none of their i5 or i7 machines will fit in your budget.</p>

13388

2020-04-28T13:10:39.790

|laptop|

<ol> <li>Touch Screen</li> <li>Full HD</li> <li>Big screen preferable</li> <li>i5-i7</li> <li>SSD or SSD + HD or hybrid</li> <li>Budget is $500</li> <li>Surface pro "like" but something made not by microsoft. Tablet laptop hybrid kind of thing.</li> <li>Easy to fix when broken.</li> <li>No need for video card or minimal one. Not for gaming</li> </ol> <p>Basically like the surface pro. However, I think I want a bigger space and something that I can fix more easily.</p>

Repairable touchscreen laptop/hybrid under $500

<p>Lenovo's <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-p/ThinkPad-P73/p/20QRS00100" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ThinkPad P73</a> (model part number <a href="https://psref.lenovo.com/Detail/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_P73?M=20QRS00100" rel="nofollow noreferrer">20QRS00100</a>) is an excellent machine for <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Io9Ca.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer">just under two kilobucks today when ordered from Lenovo</a>, with a 17.3" screen, Core i9-9750H CPU, 16 GB of (expandible) DDR4 RAM, a NVIDIA Quadro T2000 GPU, and a 512 GB SSD. It's fast and upgradable, the screen's large, and it's very easy to service when you need to beef it up. Lenovo's documentation is first rate, and IBM Global Service will stand behind you.</p> <p>I'd recommend Lenovo ThinkPads over other machines with the same specs because of the last two items, even if I had to pay more. </p>

13393

2020-04-28T18:07:04.623

|pc|apple|

<p>What PC (laptop or desktop) would be good for a relatively newbie coder who'll be entering a UX/UI boot camp soon? </p> <p>A little background: I'm a lifelong PC/windows users (I'm coming from the business world), and while I've purchased and tried a few Apple/Mac products in my life, they've never quite gelled with me. I tend to dislike the fact that they're SO proprietary, i.e., I resent spending money on special chargers and cables, and I dislike the garbage bin (sorry, I'm nitpicking). </p> <p>I'm located in the US (New Mexico), so I'll probably be ordering something though we do have a Best Buy here in town, currently closed due to COVID restrictions.</p> <p>Budget is somewhat open though I'd prefer to be under $2K if possible.</p> <p>In any case, should I view this opportunity as my foray into the Mac world, or should I stick with PC-based tech since that's what I'm most familiar and comfortable with? </p> <p>Thanks for sharing your tips and thoughts, particularly if you've been in a similar position.</p>

Recommendations for UX/UI Bootcamper / newbie coder

<p>Technical reason: A USB-C device must be driven by a USB-C 'uplink' port in the PC. Since your PC does not have a USB-C port, no USB-C device can connect. </p> <p>Therefore, I'd suggest adding a USB-C card such as a <a href="https://www.newegg.com/en-labs-model-pcieu3acs20/p/17Z-00FJ-00002" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$19 card</a> from NewEgg, or a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01FH6I0XK" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$25 card</a> from Amazon. Both connect to PCIe slots on your desktop motherboard, so please check that you have the necessary card slot available. </p> <p>If your PC is a laptop, there's no solution for it, as the ExpressCard expansion card slot does not support USB-C.</p>

13418

2020-05-04T08:13:19.623

|usb|hub|usb-c|

<p>My PC only has USB-A ports. I want a hub which I can connect (so it needs USB-A connection) and which provides both USB-A and USB-C ports. I do not need any of the fancy optional features USB-C can provide like Thunderbolt, DisplayPort or high power output, just plain USB 3 will do.</p> <p>The only devices I could find so far are of the <em>Docking Station</em> category with a very steep price tag. All the normal hubs I found with USB-C ports have a USB-C uplink connection as well.</p> <p>The lack of such a device made me wonder, if there might be a technical (or legal) reason that such a device cannot exist.</p>

Hub with USB-A uplink and USB-C ports

<p>Any 'Gateway' device (cable modem + router) and any router allow you to disable the WiFi, if my no other means, changing the wireless LAN's IP address or network name. </p> <p><a href="https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-nighthawk-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-24-x-8-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/4403100.p?skuId=4403100" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-nighthawk-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-24-x-8-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/4403100.p?skuId=4403100</a><br> and<br> <a href="https://www.bestbuy.com/site/motorola-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-16-x-4-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/5619201.p?skuId=5619201" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.bestbuy.com/site/motorola-dual-band-ac1900-router-with-16-x-4-docsis-3-0-cable-modem-black/5619201.p?skuId=5619201</a> </p> <p>are immediately available from Buy More and have 24x8 channels as well as WPA2-PSK encryption and 802.11ac WiFi. </p> <p>The Motorola is Spectrum-certified, whereas users of the Netgear say it does work on Spectrum.</p>

13437

2020-05-06T22:09:17.457

|wifi|router|

<p>I am looking for a cable modem that has the ability to shut WiFi on and off. I need the modem to be DOCSIS 3.0 at the least. The network I’d be using this for is Spectrum. Are there models that are compatible with the requirements I have?</p> <p>Searches I’ve made have turned out modems that have WiFi but no switch to turn it on or off.</p> <p>Updates: A physical button would great but access to the panel for on/off would be acceptable too. Ideally this would be one item housing both the modem and router. Setups that use both can work if none exist. For channels, my preference is 16x4 but 24x8 will si too. </p>

Cable modem with WiFi on off switch

<p>The XPS with a i7-10710U has more processing cores than the i7-8665U which could help it tackle multiple simultaneous programs or threads. Performance improvement in programs, which are not memory-bound will be lower. It <em>could</em> take advantage of faster memory access, but Dell chose <em>slower</em> memory for the XPS. Ouch!</p> <p>The Latitude with a Core i7-8665U advantage can run at a higher operating frequency than the i7-10710U, and its memory is faster (2400 MHz vs 2133 MHz).</p> <p>Since the memory is faster and more expandable, Windows 10 Pro is included (so it can join domains), and the warranty is <strong>three</strong> years instead of one, I favor the Latitude. </p> <p>A <a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1637cIFiPyIkPtI5n0Q5c44pee8x-veaQhYJB5i5m6sY/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">more detailed comparison chart</a> is available for review. It shows the Latitude has a USB 3.1 Gen 1 without PowerShare, a USB 3.1 Gen 1 with PowerShare (allows the battery on your laptop to charge a USB device), and a Thunderbolt™ 3 w/ DisplayPort &amp; Power Delivery. PowerDelivery, in theory, <a href="https://www.dell.com/community/Inspiron/Is-there-a-simple-reliable-way-to-tell-which-Dells-can-charge/td-p/7304734" rel="nofollow noreferrer">allows charging in and charging out</a>, but I would confirm that with Dell Latitude Sales as to power in capabilities over the Thunderbolt port; they're making bucks off the sale, they should help. </p>

13449

2020-05-10T20:23:22.650

|laptop|processor|memory|multiple-monitors|portable|

<p>I want a new PC, mainly for work, plus other minor stuff like browsing, Netflix, and Skype. I work in economics research, therefore I need to easily work with reasonably big datasets (say, ~25Gb of data) and pure, brute computational power for simulations, model estimation, some light machine learning task. I write code mainly in R/Python/Julia/Matlab/Stata languages, plus LaTeX for writing presentations and articles. I can get some discount on Dell machines through my Uni, which restricts the options to basically two alternatives:</p> <ul> <li>XPS 13, fully spec'ed (i7 10th gen, 16 Gb RAM, 512 SSD)</li> <li>Latitude 7400, fully spec'ed (i7 8th gen, 16 Gb RAM expansible, 512 SSD)</li> </ul> <p>Both machines fit the portability requirement, as I can also work at a conference without carrying around a stone slate. The after discount prices are close enough (&lt;1500€). </p> <p>Here comes my question then: which one should I favour, knowing my work needs? As of now, ports and expansible RAM on the Latitude are an advantage that comes at the cost of separated AC port and thickness, while the XPS has fewer ports, RAM is soldered but has more portability and is powered via USB C (one less charger to carry around)?</p> <p>Please note that when I am at office I usually use a second screen if that helps in any way.</p> <p>edit: 15" would be ok but are usually much more pricier and less portable.</p> <p>edit II: got in touch with Dell's Sales, the Latitude 7400 <em>can</em> be powered by a USB-C charger (so a dock station can work, too) and not only with the barrel ('Coaxial') plug.</p>

Portable laptop for academic research

<p>6) How about a 3.5mm male-3.5mm female four pole TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) extension cord? </p> <p>The four pole is needed since it's a headset, not just headphones (which only need three pole, tip-ring-sleeve). Examples shown at <a href="https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=3.5mm%20headset%20extension%20cable" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.google.com/search?psb=1&amp;tbm=shop&amp;q=3.5mm%20headset%20extension%20cable</a> . </p> <p>Please confirm the plug on the end of his headset looks like the plug shown in those pix.</p>

13451

2020-05-11T15:06:06.420

|audio|hub|audio-adapters|

<p>One of my friends has problems with the 3.5mm audio jacks on the front of his PC. He's not technical enough to look into fixing those and what that implies. With lockdown all over the place, it's hard to go to a specialised shop right now, so we want an alternative to make this work. </p> <p>The audio jacks on the back of the case work well, but the headphones cable is not long enough to allow to sit comfortably at the desk. I would like something like a little hub (mc+headphones) he could connect to the back of his PC and leverage those ports via this extension. </p> <p>We looked at a few things but some were not what we were after: </p> <ol> <li><p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-recessed-Built-Connector-Microphone-black/dp/B07H4MYS4C/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Desktop adapter for specific desks with the round hole cutouts</a> This one only works if you have those corner holes in your desktop, so not great a great fit.</p></li> <li><p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SQ17YD7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B07SQ17YD7&amp;pd_rd_w=35Cj9&amp;pf_rd_p=1055d8b2-c10c-4d7d-b50d-96300553e15d&amp;pd_rd_wg=9QwnN&amp;pf_rd_r=E04H8QMAQ20V5CYVT26B&amp;pd_rd_r=45836c56-c391-4c7d-b68f-44ec1031709e&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQTdDOU04WkJaTUNRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc3Mzg2M0RDVjlGNE1HV1haQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTE1NzQ4MjFJUUlZQTE3STY5UCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Front Panel</a> The person can't be trusted to open the case and install this since they have no experience with this. </p></li> <li><p>USB to 3.5 mm not really excited about, they are usually short and the 1 working front USB port is used for other stuff. </p></li> <li><p><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Desktop/dp/B00A152RYG/ref=sr_1_19?dchild=1&amp;keywords=desktop%20audio&amp;qid=1589208613&amp;sr=8-19" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creative Sound - Desktop audio control module</a> Something like this module would be nice, but without the entire card since opening the case is not an option. </p></li> <li><p>I have one of these hubs on my keyboard, but his keyboard does not have one, unfortunately.</p></li> </ol>

3.5mm Audio extension

<p>First of all, <a href="https://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-vs-displayport-vs-dvi-vs-vga-which-connection-to-choose/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">VGA is analog and the rest are digital</a>. This limits somewhat your options because, in case of NVIDIA graphics cards, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce#cite_ref-PCWorld_RIP_VGA_17-0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the 900 series was the last one to support analog video through DVI-I</a>. According to <a href="https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1022700-most-powerful-dvi-i-gpu/?tab=comments#comment-12203919" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this reply</a>, there are some old AMD cards that also support it and you also might be able to convert between Display Port and VGA.</p> <p>In other words, it is fairly easy to convert between digital connectors (DVI, HDMI) using a passive adapter. However, you need an active adapter to convert the signal between analog and digital, which are usually quite expensive.</p> <p>As a result, <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-Nvidia-DL-DVI-I-DVI-D-Graphics/dp/B01683DI74?th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this is an example of a card that might suit you</a>: </p> <ul> <li>on the top, it has a DVI-D slot (digital only). </li> </ul> <p>On the bottom, it has (from left to right):</p> <ul> <li>a Display Port</li> <li>HDMI</li> <li>DVI-I slot (analog and digital), which means that you can use <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000067SOH" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a cheap adapter</a> (they are usually included in the graphics card box) and connect your VGA cable.</li> </ul> <p>Apart from that, it looks like a low profile card (although "low profile" are usually considered the cards that occupy one slot and don't require external power), but I am not sure if it fits your case. You might want to take some measurements to be safe.</p> <p>You might also have price and availability issues, as these card are a coupe generations old and you would probably only find them used. Since they are for a fleet of work computers as you say, the card than I linked above would probably be considered overkill.</p>

13456

2020-05-12T14:51:12.713

|pcie|multiple-monitors|video-adapters|

<p>I'm looking for a low-profile PCI-Express video card that will support 1080p on at least 2 monitors simultaneously. That's easy to find, but I'm also wanting one that has the versatility of having all 4 of these ports:</p> <ol> <li>Display Port</li> <li>HDMI</li> <li>DVI</li> <li>VGA</li> </ol> <p>It is easy to find inexpensive video cards that can do dual monitors at 1080p via all 3 of these ports: HDMI, DVI, and VGA. However, I can't find one that can do "all of those ports <strong>plus Display Port</strong>".</p> <p>This is for a fleet of work computers. I just want to make sure that each one these computers has the flexibility to connect to what ever monitors are available at any given time I try to set them up (without using external adapters).</p> <p>I need low profile because the video card will be installed in these bottom two slots (which are smaller than a full size PC slots):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIB0k.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIB0k.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

Versatile Low Profile Video Card with Display Port, HDMI, DVI, and VGA

<p>Since very few <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=%22android%20cellphone%20with%20external%20antenna%22" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cellphones nowadays have external antennas</a>, and they are not Android but are 2G only, a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cellular repeater</a> or <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Femtocell" rel="nofollow noreferrer">femtocell</a> at 20m elevation is recommended. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRLB7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRLB7.png" alt="Layout diagram active repeater from https://www.waveform.com/pages/cell-phone-repeaters"></a></p> <p>It must match the cellular voice and data frequency bands used by your provider, wherever you are, and may require regional regulatory approval. They <em>will</em> work, as adding another cellphone (Android or otherwise) may or may not work, especially since the sensitivity and rejection figures needed to determine if that second phone would work well are rarely published. A repeater also eliminates the need for another cellphone and another SIM card.</p> <p>An active repeater adds signal gain, whereas a passive repeater doesn't. Therefore, an active repeater is preferred. </p> <p>The following picture shows two antennas coupled together; if there's an active repeater between the antennas instead of just cable, that would be ideal and much more likely to work with no problems, rather than an unamplified passive approach. </p> <p>If there is no femtocell or cellular repeater approved, let's talk about external antennas coupled through low-loss cable to form a passive repeater. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4KFRa.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4KFRa.png" alt="passive repeater"></a> L50 ohm LMR400 cable would be my choice for cable; see <a href="https://info.wilsonpro.com/ty-installationguide/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://info.wilsonpro.com/ty-installationguide/</a> and <a href="https://www.wilsonamplifiers.com/blog/understanding-coaxial-cables-the-complete-guide" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.wilsonamplifiers.com/blog/understanding-coaxial-cables-the-complete-guide</a> for more. </p> <p>There are apps for your phone which can provide the location of the cell towers you connect to at that 20 meter height. A <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yagi%E2%80%93Uda_antenna" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Yagi-Uda</a> or other <a href="https://www.alternativewireless.com/resources/cell-signal-improvement/antenna-info/antennafaq.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">directional antenna</a> can be pointed at that cell tower, and a cable dropped from that position to your cellphone. However, that depends on knowing what frequency bands your cellphone carrier uses, as directional antennas are very frequency-specific.</p> <p>Both of those suggestions let you continue to use your existing iPhone, and its Bluetooth connectivity, without buying another SIM card and paying for another cellular device every month.</p>

13495

2020-05-18T17:05:35.663

|wifi|smartphones|bluetooth|

<p>My scenario is that at ground level I do not have phone signal.</p> <p>At around 20m height I get quite a good phone sinal, including internet.</p> <p>I would like to use an Android phone to use it for voice calls from my computer (perhaps via wifi/bluetooth) and have good signal antennas to <em>catch</em> as much signal as possible from the cell tower.</p> <p>Also, I will use it as hotspot, hence the need for good wifi and bluetooth signal.</p> <hr> <p>I have tried this with my iPhone, but unfortunatelly, I cannot have voice calls when the iPhone works as hotspot.</p>

Android phone with powerful signal antenna (eventually exended), good Bluetooth and Wifi range

<p>This is a rack-mounted JBOD (Just a Box Of Disks) 19" enclosure for 3.5" SATA drives. </p> <p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/raid-machine-n1208rm/p/1UW-0036-00098?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-9SIADZY5VP3461-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">8 bays for 3.5" drives</a> </p> <p><a href="https://www.newegg.com/istarusa-dage412u20-3ms-silver/p/N82E16816215154?Description=jbod%20enclosure&amp;cm_re=jbod_enclosure-_-16-215-154-_-Product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">12 bays for 3.5" drives</a></p> <p>Both are hot-swap compatible <em>if your controller supports that</em>. Controller cables are readily available from that source, once you make a selection of what you want, but the standard SATA port on a motherboard is designed to control just one drive, so for an enclosure like this, you will need a <a href="https://www.newegg.com/syba-sd-via-1a2s-sata-ide/p/N82E16816124009" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2-port JBOD controller</a> (or more ports) for the number of SATA drives you plan to use.</p> <p>19" rack-mount drives the price up; if you would accept a freestanding cabinet, <a href="https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=jbod%20enclosure%203%2E5%22&amp;PageSize=96&amp;order=PRICE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the price drops</a>, but you would need to specify the number of drive bays.</p>

13500

2020-05-20T11:24:52.680

|hard-disk|rack|

<p>It should give power to them, and give a SATA connection to them. Roughly so:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8sZO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8sZO.jpg" alt="HDD rack mount"></a></p> <p>...except that I want to put 3.5'' SATA drives in it.</p> <p>What I want, externally: simple SATA slots, connected to the drives directly. All "intelligent" solutions, particularly complex NAS servers, etc. are all big no-no. I only want a physical storage for the hard disks, the NAS part is done by me.</p> <p>Nice to have, <strong>but not a requirement</strong>, if at least some of the HDDs can be hot-swapped (removed without screws).</p> <p>Price should be consequent to the near-zero electronics. (Obviously it should be cheaper than a NAS.)</p>

HDD rack container

<p>4D Systems offers <a href="https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules" rel="nofollow noreferrer">many different displays</a>. </p> <p>The key advantages are:</p> <ul> <li>They offer an RS485 "plugin" for the display (<a href="https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules/motg-modules/motg-rs485" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MOTG-RS485</a>). </li> <li>An IDE suite of software to program and configure the UI of the Display (<a href="https://4dsystems.com.au/workshop4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Workshop4 IDE</a>).</li> <li>Provide <a href="https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules/gen4-ulcd-24dt" rel="nofollow noreferrer">documentation</a> on how to get the board working.</li> <li>Provide "<a href="https://4dsystems.com.au/products/4d-intelligent-hmi-display-modules/gen4-hmi-display-modules/starter-kits" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Starter Kits</a>" to make getting started easy.</li> <li>Are reasonably priced, with volume discounts.</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqNvI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqNvI.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

13503

2020-05-20T17:14:00.567

|displays|

<p>A project needs a small touch display to control an alarm system in public buildings. requiring: </p> <ul> <li>Touch display (preferably resistive)</li> <li>RS485 connectivity (to enable the display to be a good distance from the hardware)</li> <li>Cost per display is a consideration when ordered in volume (200 per year or so). </li> </ul> <p>The display doesn't need to be very big (4" or even less would work), and the resolution doesn't really matter either, as long as it's adequate for buttons and text. </p> <p>If you know how visual elements are configured to the display (for example by using QT), that would be helpful. </p> <p>Once the prototype has been built, more of the displays will be ordered. Example image:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWRiF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWRiF.png" alt="picture of a similar display with bezel"></a></p> <p>Thanks for any help or direction!</p>

Small Touch Display Recommendation with RS485 Connectivity

<p>Here's comparisons of the two CPUs which show the superiority of the i9-9880HK:</p> <p><a href="https://versus.com/en/intel-core-i9-8950hk-vs-intel-core-i9-9880h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://versus.com/en/intel-core-i9-8950hk-vs-intel-core-i9-9880h</a></p> <p><a href="https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Core-i9-9980HK-vs-Intel-Core-i9-8950HK/3451vs3246" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Core-i9-9980HK-vs-Intel-Core-i9-8950HK/3451vs3246</a></p> <p><a href="https://www.notebookcheck.net/8950HK-vs-9980HK-vs-9880H_9900_11341_11348.247596.0.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.notebookcheck.net/8950HK-vs-9980HK-vs-9880H_9900_11341_11348.247596.0.html</a></p> <p>And comparisons of the T2000 (Notebook) to the RTX 3000 (Notebook) show the advantage of the GDDR6 RAM in the latter:</p> <p><a href="https://www.notebookcheck.net/Quadro-T2000-Laptop-vs-Quadro-RTX-3000-Laptop_9858_9854.247598.0.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.notebookcheck.net/Quadro-T2000-Laptop-vs-Quadro-RTX-3000-Laptop_9858_9854.247598.0.html</a></p> <p><a href="https://technical.city/en/video/Quadro-RTX-3000-mobile-vs-Quadro-T2000-Max-Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://technical.city/en/video/Quadro-RTX-3000-mobile-vs-Quadro-T2000-Max-Q</a> </p>

13505

2020-05-20T21:56:53.247

|laptop|graphics-cards|processor|intel|nvidia|

<p>I want to buy a new laptop and after some research, I have two candidates. The prices almost match, but I can't buy both best CPU and GPU in my region.</p> <p>I found one laptop with CPU i9-8950HK (gen 8, 6 cores, clockspeed 2.9GHz) and with GPU NVIDIA Quadro RTX 3000, and one with CPU i9-9980HK (gen 9, 8 cores, clockspeed 2.4GHz) and with GPU NVIDIA Quadro T2000.</p> <p>The problem is that I found that Quadro RTX is much more powerful.</p> <p>I need the computer for (primarily):</p> <ul> <li>Game development.</li> <li>Software development.</li> <li>Machine learning.</li> </ul> <p>Both GPUs are very OK for game development. But if I understand correctly the Quadro RTX is better for ML.</p> <p>So I ask:</p> <ul> <li><p>How much is gen 9 better than gen 8, also consider 8-cores vs. 6-cores but higher clockspeed?</p></li> <li><p>Is the difference between the CPUs will affect more than the difference between the GPUs? Note that if I cannot do ML with Quadro T2000 there's no choice and I'll but the first laptop - ML is mandatory, but all three usages are equal in need.</p></li> </ul> <p>If the computers are roughly equal I prefer the second because of the weight (1.78kg vs 2.6kg).</p>

Which Laptop Should I Prefer: i9-8950HK with NVIDIA Quadro RTX 3000 or i9-9980HK with NVIDIA Quadro T2000

<p>63 quid gets you <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bonsaii-12-Sheet-60-Minute-Continuous-Operation/dp/B07G2WMKWG/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this P4-level 220VAC</a> shredder. Sadly, Big River Trading Company's website detected my Americanese dialect and would not allow me to ask <em>Is the paper input sensor mechanical or optical?</em></p>

13524

2020-05-24T12:32:16.977

|home-electronics|

<p>I've had a couple of shredders in the past, <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000S6I9BI/ref=pe_385721_51767431_TE_dp_1" rel="noreferrer">this AmazonBasics one</a> being the most recent. They both broke, and as far as I can tell for the same reason: The optical sensor died. This means that the shredder mechanism works perfectly, except it can't tell that a paper is being pushed in the hole, and therefore it never activates the engine.</p> <p>I've had some luck with cleaning the optical sensor using an alcohol pad, but that doesn't always work.</p> <p>I'm sick of this problem. I want a shredder that: </p> <ol> <li>Is not dependent on an optical sensor. It's okay for it to have one, as long as there's a manual override, so the shredder doesn't go to the trash if the sensor is broken.</li> <li>Is high-security. None of those long paper strips that can be reassembled into a document. I believe that <a href="https://www.the-shredder-warehouse.com/security-level" rel="noreferrer">level 4</a> is reasonable.</li> <li>Supports a 220 volt power connection.</li> <li>Is not too expensive hopefully.</li> </ol> <p>Does anyone know of a shredder that meets these criteria?</p>

High-security shredder that doesn't depend on optical sensors

<p>Would your budget reach up to a <a href="https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-X1-Extreme-2nd-Gen/dp/B083F8KG7N/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Lenovo%20ThinkPad&amp;qid=1590689453&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A1485947031%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_n_feature_eleven_browse-bin%3A7005059031%2Cp_n_pattern_browse-bin%3A1464446031%7C8609969031%2Cp_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin%3A12598163031&amp;rnid=12598141031&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo ThinkPad X1 Extreme 2nd Gen</a>, superior in every way to the other three except in audio? (See the comparison chart added to the question.) It's what I have, and I love it; the extra two cores help, and Windows 10 Pro allows me to connect to domains in networks. Over two years in, battery life still > 3 hours.</p> <p>You <em>will</em> appreciate the faster RAM in the Lenovos. </p> <p>If not, I would suggest a <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/in/en/laptops/legion-laptops/legion-y-series/Lenovo-Legion-Y540-15/p/81SX00G6IN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thinkpad Legion Y540</a> (also six-core) or <a href="https://www.amazon.in/s?k=Thinkpad&amp;i=computers&amp;rh=p_89%3ALenovo%2Cp_36%3A9000000-15000000&amp;dc&amp;qid=1590791665&amp;rnid=1318502031&amp;ref=sr_nr_p_36_5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">other ThinkPads</a> in the ₹90,000-₹149,999 bucket. ThinkPad documentation is the best in the industry, and the IBM Global field service included in the warranty is excellent. These are machines which likely will last through your school years and beyond without repair; I write this on a 2010 ThinkPad T420 still in service a decade later.</p>

13550

2020-05-28T13:41:28.837

|laptop|

<p>I am going to be buying a new laptop but I am stuck between the following three choices. I would appreciate any advice that would help me make the best decision.</p> <p>Laptop Use:</p> <ul> <li>Heavy Programming: VS Code, Intellij IDEA, Android Studio, Pycharm (Memory Hogs).</li> <li>Graphic Designing or Editings (very minor, would not used regularly): Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Wondershare Filmora.</li> <li>Browsing: Chrome</li> <li>(Student's) Assignments: Microsoft Office</li> </ul> <p>Ideally, I would like to choose the best of the following three systems but I am not sure which of them would fit me the best.</p> <p><strong>1. System 1:</strong> <a href="https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Y56RLZ1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP Envy 13-aq1020TX</a></p> <ul> <li>CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)</li> <li>RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2400MHz</li> <li>Storage: 512GB PCIe (Gen not specified) + 32GB Intel Optane</li> <li>Graphics: Nvidia MX250 (2 GB)</li> <li>Battery: 53Wh</li> <li>Audio: Bang &amp; Olufsen, quad speakers, HP Audio Boost</li> <li>Display: 13.3-inch Full HD (1920x1080) IPS micro-edge WLED-backlit touchscreen display</li> <li>Wireless: Wifi5, Bluetooth 5.0</li> <li>OS: Win 10 Home</li> <li>Apps: Office Home &amp; Student</li> </ul> <p><strong>2. System 2:</strong> <a href="https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07YSHS9D9" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ASUS ZenBook 14 UX433FA</a></p> <ul> <li>CPU: Intel Core i7-10510U (1.8GHz to 4.9GHz, 14nm Tech)</li> <li>RAM: 16GB LPDDR3 2133MHz</li> <li>Storage: 1TB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD</li> <li>Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 620</li> <li>Battery: 50Wh</li> <li>Audio: Audio by ICEpower®, Bang &amp; Olufsen, harmon/ kardon</li> <li>Display: 14" LED-backlit FHD (1920x1080) 100% sRGB color gamut, 178° wide-view technology</li> <li>Wireless: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0</li> <li>OS: Win 10 Home</li> <li>Apps: Office Home &amp; Student</li> </ul> <p><strong>3. System 3:</strong> <a href="https://www.amazon.in/dp/B082FHZW6V" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Acer Swift 5 SF514-54T</a></p> <ul> <li>CPU: Intel Core i7-1065G7 (1.3GHz to 3.9GHz, 10nm Tech, Accelarated Integrated Graphics)</li> <li>RAM: 16GB LPDDR4 2133MHz</li> <li>Storage: 512GB PCIe 3.0 x4 NvMe SSD</li> <li>Graphics: Intel Iris Plus Graphics</li> <li>Battery: 56Wh</li> <li>Audio: (Not specified)</li> <li>Display: 14" 1920x180 FHD CineCrystal technology Anti-glare touch IPS panel.</li> <li>Another features: Wifi6 (3x faster), Bluetooth 5.0</li> <li>OS: Win 10 Home</li> <li>Apps: N/A</li> </ul> <p>All of them have something better other having some other thing better, I am just not able to choose from.</p> <p>Any comments are &amp; other laptop recommendation is highly appreciated. A <a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JIO0yRR38SMt53oUxw9LMKA6LknPI0IGak3pxradzy8/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google Sheets comparison chart</a> follows.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQGjL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQGjL.png" alt="Comparison chart"></a></p>

Which of the following laptop out of 3 should I buy?

<p>I found an audio interface from <a href="https://www.behringer.com/product.html?modelCode=P0A31" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Behringer - the UCA222</a> (for about 23 EUR - as from Jul/2020) which looked pretty promising <strong>and cheap</strong>. It has input and output RCA sockets, as well as a 3.5 mm headphone jack with a volume control wheel and of course S/PDIF via TOSLINK.</p> <br> <p>Fortunately I found a block diagram of the <a href="https://www.cmedia.com.tw/products/USB20_FULL_SPEED/CM6533N" rel="nofollow noreferrer">audio chip (CM6533)</a> used within the UCA222. That showed me that the digital output is almost a &quot;pass-through&quot;. I spoke with the Behringer team. They told me <strong>most of their devices are class compliant - so Linux should work too</strong>.</p> <p>That's what I finally bought and it works quite smoothly. The AD/DA components are probably not the best (haven't tested them so far) but that's why I connect it via a S/PDIF switch to a high quality DAC.</p>

13562

2020-05-29T09:36:57.160

|usb|linux|audio|windows|audio-adapters|

<p>I am searching for a USB (A or C male) to TOSLINK Adapter (female) in order to keep my audio signal digital as long as possible.</p> <p>What is important that I do not need to install specific drivers (this is especially important for Linux).</p> <p>==</p> <p>Alternatively it could be coaxial S/PDIF instead of TOSLINK.</p>

USB (A or C) to TOSLINK Adapter for Linux

<p><a href="https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/1587/Bridges" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BlackBox</a> offers professional radio bridge links, but you are not limited to radio: A no-license-required infrared laser bridge can provide one or 10 gigabit/second of bandwidth as described at <a href="https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://hackaday.com/2016/03/10/gigabit-ethernet-through-the-air/</a> , at <a href="http://www.koruza.net/features/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.koruza.net/features/</a> , and <a href="http://quickstart.koruza.net/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://quickstart.koruza.net/</a> for less than two thousand Euros (VAT &amp; freight not included). </p> <p>Run a gigabit or 10 gigabit LAN connection to a point on walls which face each other. You can use power over Ethernet or bring out a 24VDC connection capable of 6W of power.</p> <p>Mount a two kilo, 18 cm x 12 cm x 12cm, Koruza box on each wall. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSc4H.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSc4H.png" alt="Diagram and photo of Koruza infrared laser optical bridge"></a></p> <p>Align each laser to point at each other with the green laser included.</p> <p>Then, turn off the aiming laser, and the eye-safe infrared laser in each Koruza box will connect through snow, dust, rain, and fog.</p> <p>I would expect &lt; 1ms latency per <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/328544938_Outdoor_Measurements_Using_an_Optical_Wireless_Link_for_Fixed-Access_Applications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this study</a> .</p> <p>Koruza is not the only vendor of <strong>infrared optical laser bridges</strong>, BTW; <a href="https://www.blackbox.co.uk/gb-gb/page/22200/Solutions/By-Technology/Networking-Solutions/Wireless-Networking/laserlink-fso-and-rf-bridges" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BlackBox</a> also offers professional grade infrared laser optical bridges as well as 60 GHz radio bridges, and <a href="http://ronja.twibright.com/models.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ronja</a> offers a DIY 10 Mbps optical kit if you are have severe budgetary constraints.</p>

13614

2020-06-04T17:38:06.420

|wireless|

<p>While connecting our small school to a new building, we're facing a problem: a tiny road splits "campus" in two, and we're not allowed to pass fiber cable over the street. Initially, we were planning to lay a 10Gbit fiber optic cable.</p> <p>Are there any radio repeaters/antennas that can reliably keep the connection with an optimal quality grade? Distance between two points 8/10 meters. What costs, equipment and performance (speed &amp; latency) may I expect?</p>

Reliable, high performance radio link?

<p>I would go without hesitation for a Dell Latitude.</p> <p>I loved the E6510 (15.6'') / E6410 (14.1''). They're robust, a dream for maintenance, and are easy to clean. Both support 8GB DDR3 (confirmed), maybe 16GB.</p> <p>Previous E6500 (15.4'') / E6400 (14.1'') series are similar for maintenance. Those Core 2 Duo are still performing very well with Vista with only 4GB DDR2 (or even 2GB !), if coming with a dedicated graphic chip (Nvidia NVS 160M) and a professional grade SSD. (Word or Excel opening in less than 1 second on Windows Vista.) They are probably a little aging for Windows 10. I haven't attepmpted this. E6500 / E6400 had the issue of peeling speakers paint.</p> <p>More recent series, with the E6520/E6420 and E6530/E6430 design, are also very good, although maintenance is a little less easy, as having more than one screw on the bottom to open them. The E6530/E6430 brought USB 3.0, altough E6510/E6410 series allows adding a USB 3.0 socket though the use of an ExpressCard and have an eSATA socket as well.</p> <p>Later series (e.g. E6540) are less reparable, at least for the display panel assembly which is monolithic. (The LCD panel is sealed.)</p> <p>If the notebook stays at work or home most of the time, I would go with a 15''.</p> <p>In your case, I would pick the E6510 (easier to clean) or the E6530 (more recent). Newbies focus too much on the RAM amount. I would'nt. A dedicated graphic chip (NVIDIA), the processor and an SSD instead of an HDD are way more important. For instance, I have some old E6500 with Core 2 Duo, NVIDIA 160M graphics and 4 GB RAM that still beat more recent E6520 with i5 but standard Intel GMA graphics. Both have a good SSD. The question is always where the bottleneck is. It is useless to have tons of RAM if the processor cannot follow or if the HDD is slow. Nowadays it is rare going out of RAM with standard desktop use. 4GB often suffice and 6GB is comfortable.</p>

13663

2020-06-18T14:06:32.850

|laptop|

<p>I'm looking for a laptop for my wife to use for home use. She primarily needs to browse the web and print documents. I'd like to find a laptop at an excellent price-point that will last a long time.</p> <p>Specifically:</p> <ul> <li>I'd like the total cost of the machine to be under $300</li> <li>I'd like the machine to last at least five years, if not ten or twenty.</li> <li>It should have enough ram to comfortably support Windows 10 and any forced windows upgrades in the future. I'm thinking 8GB would be enough for this, but I don't really know.</li> </ul> <p>I've heard that refurbished industrial brands should work well for this, so I've been considering a refurbished Dell Latitude. Others have mentioned that Lenovo Thinkpads are a good choice, but I've heard too many reports of those failing.</p> <p>My question: What brand do you recommend, and are there reputable sellers who will cover warranty returns if, e.g., the battery fails within 90 days?</p>

Durable, low-cost, browsing laptop

<p>After six months of usage I can say <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/13674/cheapest-jun-2020-discrete-gpu-with-working-powersaving-on-gnu-linux-multihe#comment22734_13674">Maarten Bodewen</a> suggestion for the Radeon 580RX has been wise.</p> <p>I wouldn't suggest a PSU with less than 850 watt of power to anyone else going this way, though.</p>

13674

2020-06-20T04:05:51.120

|graphics-cards|linux|multiple-monitors|power|

<p>With <em>working</em> I mean GNU/Linux temperatures should not exceed Windows' ones by 10 C° with <a href="https://wiki.gentoo.org/wiki/Radeon#Power_consumption_when_using_multi-head_.2F_multi-monitor" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>low</code></a> performance profile.</p> <p>Preferably powersaving support over multi monitor configurations should be present into free driver.</p>

Cheapest (jun 2020) discrete GPU with working powersaving on GNU / Linux multihead

<p>I have personally used an Arduino with a <a href="https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/gps-chips-gps-modules/9084085?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Computing_%26_Peripherals_Whoop-_-GPS%20Chips%20%26%20GPS%20Modules_Whoop-_-9084085&amp;matchtype=&amp;aud-827186183886:pla-335746249196&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpUS_Rb8vu6n6SVYof9by9xOfxTJ3j_rWSQZTexxtgyrwIY-fYI9Xa0aAiYpEALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GPS module</a> an <a href="https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Adafruit/254?qs=GURawfaeGuAkwqCF4BmPzA%3D%3D&amp;vip=1&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpUB6pwW7tLGcliZbPF3GTVInCWD9KrZjl2jzG13OSDfclU97ou4oSsaAln7EALw_wcB" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SD Card module</a> to plot GPS coordinates. This is a bit of a DIY project and requires some programming, but given your StackOverflow reputation this should not be an issue for you at all and has the added benefit of being customisable to your exact needs.</p> <p>The Arduino can be powered using a powerbank which, depending on the size, would easily last more than a day.</p> <p>Below is a map of the route which I took, the blue line is the path I walked and the red line is the GPS points read from the SD card - as you can see the results are quite accurate for an inexpensive system.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/17fWA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/17fWA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

13688

2020-06-23T12:39:06.250

|gps|microsd|sd-card|

<p>I'm looking for a device that can record GPS coordinate and save them to SD card, without the need for SIM card. I need this so I can tag my photos on laptop when I get home. GPS for my camera is way too big, I want something I can put in my backpack and forget about and only need to charge it once in a day (it would be nice if the battery last few days).</p> <p>The only devices I've seen are GPS navigation with a map and spy devices or localizators with sim card.</p> <p>Ideal whould be device (small computer) that save single file each day to SD card. that can be read from SD card and processed. I already have script in python that tag my photos based on GPX or CSV files created using Android app called GPS logger.</p> <p>Do you know any devices like this? I have GPS in my phone but I always forget to turn it on when I'm shooting photos, because GPS consume more power and I can't have it always turn on.</p>

GPS device that save location on SD card without the need of SIM card

<p>Fortunately, it is easier as we could see on the first spot.</p> <p>Two trivial solutions:</p> <ol> <li>Any monitor with at least 2 HDMI ports. Most of them (I estimate more than 50%) has multiple HDMI ports today.</li> <li>Using a KVM extender, like <a href="https://kvm-switch.de/images/product_images/original_images/DP02UR-F.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, to connect multiple laptops to the same display.</li> </ol> <p>(2) has also the advantage, that you can use a single keyboard/mouse for both of your laptops.</p> <p>Exactly which monitor(s) do you like you use, is already up to you (note, typically monitors live longer as the laptops, so a wise decision is relative more important).</p>

13699

2020-06-26T10:29:40.907

|laptop|monitors|hdmi|windows|apple|

<p>I have two notebooks, one is Win10 PC (HDMI), second is Macbook Pro 15 Retina 2015 (HDMI, and two Thunderbolt 2's port).</p> <p>Please recommend: one big monitor (30&quot;, 32&quot; or biggest) with the ability to simultaneously connect two laptops, so that I can either switch between sources, or work in parallel (picture in picture).</p>

Large monitor for two notebooks (WinPC and Macbook Pro)