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<p>If you have enourmous things to load in, more ram is probably better, but if you do pretty small things, faster ram is better</p>
<p>Also the difference between a 5500xt and 5600xt is bigger than only the ram. The 5600XT has much more compute units than the 5500xt, and therefore, its way more powerful (according to amd.com, 14.38 TFLOPS for the 5600xt vs 5.6 TFLOPS for the 5500xt). I think for most applications you are better off with the 5600XT.</p>
| 15466 | 2021-11-02T22:00:52.517 | |graphics-cards| | <p>What is better for blender rendering (Cycles X)</p>
<p>More GPU RAM (8GB, 128-bit), or faster speeds (6gb, 192-bit)</p>
<p>AKA</p>
<p>Radeon RX 5500 XT or Radeon RX 5600 XT</p>
| More GPU Ram or faster speed? |
<p>I purchased this:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21970" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21970</a></p>
<p>which was exactly what I needed, and it worked great on windows and linux</p>
| 15474 | 2021-11-05T19:46:35.540 | |hdmi|multiple-monitors|splitters| | <p>I searched everywhere and the closest I found was QuadHead2Go which is an overkill and too expensive... this is a sketch I made:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/VIDEOENGINEERING/comments/qngqu9/i_tried_explaining_this_in_another_post_but_i/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Question I made with a sketch on reddit</a></p>
<p>So if anyone has any idea of a cheap product that does that, I appreciate it... or even so the name of what it is... I thought slicer would be a godd fit but couldn´t find anything with that query</p>
| I want a 4k monitor slicer into 4 1080p monitors |
<p>That motherboard does not support ryzen 5000 out of the box, and also does not support BIOS flashback, so if you want to get ryzen 5000 working, you need an extra cpu, ram and gpu to flash the bios.</p>
<p>The AsRock B550 PG Riptide does support ryzen 5000 out of the box</p>
| 15493 | 2021-11-11T19:51:40.370 | |processor|motherboard|memory|compatibility| | <p>I hope you can guide me, there is the motherboard</p>
<ul>
<li><code>ASUS Micro ATX PRIME B550M-K</code><br />
based on the AM4 socket, the idea is to pair it with a Ryzen 3/5/7 5xxx. But since the majority of the motherboards needs to update the agesa microcodes to be able to handle the 5xxx series. Im in doubt if this device needs to be flashed or not. It's expected to buy a bunch, so it would be a good idea to be sure it can.</li>
</ul>
<p>Based on the official <a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/PRIME/PRIME-B550M-K/techspec/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specs</a> it is supposed to do so.
But in several pages like <a href="https://www.newegg.com/asus-prime-b550m-k/p/N82E16813119330" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, can't cofirm the capacity or it's marked as update needed (plus several comments here and there contradictories, someone says no and there someone says yes). As of today, I'm not aware of any motherboard that support it without flashing (this makes me wonder if the official info is right or its a bait to buy this).</p>
<p>Thanks in advance!!</p>
| Does the ASUS Micro ATX PRIME B550M-K motherboard support Ryzens 5xxx series out of the box? |
<p>Most times, you choose your cpu and feature set, and then go here to ask which motherboard is best... To make things even weirder, those Ryzen 5xxxGE processors are validated since a non-existing BIOS.......</p>
<p>The ASUS prime B550M-A WIFI II has a similar feature set as the A520, but it will surely support those cpu's. If it fits in your budget, try that one.</p>
| 15508 | 2021-11-15T19:46:12.113 | |processor|motherboard|compatibility|ryzen| | <p>Im thinking on buy several motherboards <a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/CSM/PRIME-A520M-A-II-CSM/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A520M-A II CSM</a> , but I don't know if these are able to support the Ryzen 5 5600G and the Ryzen 7 5700G. In the cpu list support only appear the</p>
<pre><code>Ryzen 5 5600GE (3.4GHz,35W,L3:16M,6C)
Ryzen 7 5700GE (3.2GHz,35W,L3:16M,8C)
</code></pre>
<p>this are, AFAIK, not the same models than the intended to install.</p>
<p>And Im concerning this since this motherboard does not have a method to update the bios without cpu, in the event this aren't supported. Perhaps I'm too pesky, since it is supposed to support the 5xxx but <em>after</em> it has been updated to AGESA 1.2.0.3b, and the board seems to be released with a prior version.</p>
<p>I hope someone could give me a hint, if this processor are supported or confirm if it can be updated without cpu (the button in the back panel or inside the board).</p>
<p>Thanks to all.</p>
| Cpu support for the asus PRIME A520M-A II CSM |
<h2><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1151#LGA_1151_revision_2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">No.</a></h2>
<p>The 1151 socket has two versions. Your i3-7100 is a Kaby Lake generation CPU that uses the original 1151 socket version.</p>
<p>The i9-9900K and all other Coffee Lake generation CPUs use a new version of the 1151 socket that is not compatible. This version is often referred to as "1151-2".</p>
<p>The "1151" in the socket name is the number of pins the socket has, and unfortunately that naming scheme can lead to confusion when two completely different sockets use the same number of pins. Things get even more confusing because these two 1151 sockets use the same physical CPU dimensions.</p>
| 15511 | 2021-11-16T20:45:30.513 | |processor|intel|upgrade| | <p>I'm upgrading my desktop computer, it's a computer for development, I don't understand much about hardware though. Could somebody please tell me if the processor Intel Bx80684I99900K Intel Core I9-9900K is compatible with my PC? I'll leave the link and my pc settings bellow for clarity. Thanks in advance!</p>
<p><a href="https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i99900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/186605/intel-core-i99900k-processor-16m-cache-up-to-5-00-ghz.html</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxfa0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxfa0.png" alt="CPU settings" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QE4Og.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QE4Og.png" alt="Mainboard settings" /></a></p>
<p>Chers!</p>
| I wanna upgrade my pc and want to know if the procesor is compatible |
<p>Eventually, Dell send me these parts. Note, that asking in the shops did not yield much as they tell that Dell does not give any information. So you can buy at Dell only and some parts are really expensive (M2 screw about 12 EUR).</p>
<p>HDD case:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hCw0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hCw0.png" alt="HDD case" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p>Adapter:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvYtV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvYtV.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15516 | 2021-11-18T08:03:16.290 | |hard-disk| | <p>I want to insert a HDD into Dell Precision 3561.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://dl.dell.com/topicspdf/precision-15-3561-laptop_owners-manual2_en-us.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specs</a> says:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>One 2.5-inch hard drive / SATA AHCI</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndepG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndepG.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I tried with a 1 TB HDD (Western Digital WD BlueTM 2.5-inch HDD, wd10spzx-21z10t0). However, I don't see the common possibility to connect the HDD. On the picture you may see the HDD slot (currently with a black plastic part as a placeholder in it). But the only possible connector is on the side of that slot.</p>
<ul>
<li>Do I need another HDD type here?</li>
<li>Maybe an adaptor can help here?</li>
<li>Can I use SSD in this slot (I tried with SAMSUNG 850 EVO SSD, it works, for instance with HP Pro Book 440 G2)?</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/meJqd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/meJqd.png" alt="HDD slot" /></a></p>
| Insert correct HDD |
<p>The Samsung EVO 860 is a SATA SSD so it would not work. Try an NVMe SSD like the Kingston A2000 or try a SATA to M.2 and put it in the 2.5in bay.</p>
| 15517 | 2021-11-18T08:58:44.367 | |ssd| | <p>I want to insert a SSD into Dell Precision 3561.</p>
<p>The specs says that there are <em>two M.2 2280 slots for solid-state drive 256 GB/512 GB/1
TB/2 TB</em>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXa97.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXa97.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I tried to insert a SAMSUNG 860 EVO which could fit the slot. However, either in boot menu nor in Windows the SSD is recognized.</p>
<p>Note: the SSD is not clean: It contains Ubuntu, GRUB and NTFS partitions.</p>
<p>Here is the picture of the slot:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEWnf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEWnf.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>What do these texts mean: "This SSD requires termal plate" and "no hybryd Optane/SATA?</p>
<p>Thank you for your help!</p>
| Insert correct SSD |
<p>You can keep the label. If it assists cooling, it should transfer the heat to the outer heat sink (normally air or something built into the motherboard). If you want your laptop chassis to be the ssd heatsink, you can add a thermal pad on top of the ssd. BTW, that is also how some modders made Macbooks a lot faster (M1 and intel based)</p>
| 15525 | 2021-11-21T15:26:26.697 | |cooling| | <p>I´m thinking of upgrading my NVME drive of my Asus ZenBook Duo. I was thinking of upgrading it with a Samsung Evo 980 Pro 1TB. I use my laptop for all kind of tasks (also editing videos, rendering etc. but not like crazy...). So I was wondering, how I keep the drive in a good temperature (mainly the controller).</p>
<p>I was thinking of a thermal pad as cooling support. I was reading several times that the Samsung Evo 980 Pro tend to get warmer than other drives.</p>
<p>The label of the Evo 980 Pro seems to have a cooling effect. Should I remove the label still or add a thermal pad on the label?</p>
<p>Sadly the Samsung <a href="https://www.samsung.com/us/business/support/owners/product/980-pro-series-1tb/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">product-page</a> doesn´t contain a manual, where I could try to figure something like that out.... ("Unfortunately, this information isn't currently available for this product."). I found couple of information's on other sites (but mainly other drives...), but I´m looking for someone, where does have some experience with the Evo 980 Pro.</p>
| Cooling NVME drive in laptop |
<p>I have the sharkoon skiller SGK5, which has 5 media keys, a volume wheel and all standard function keys. It also has 5 programmable macro keys, but I don't tend to use those (they are not so easy to program). It has rubberdome switches, is connected over USB and has some basic rgb (perfect for me). In Belgium, it is availible for €42 in AZERTY and QWERTY layouts (a lot cheaper than $200).</p>
| 15539 | 2021-11-25T20:04:07.663 | |keyboards| | <p>I just chanced upon a <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Tenkeyless-LIGHTSPEED-Mechanical-LIGHTSYNC/dp/B07W6JQ1KQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=wireless+keyboard&qid=1637870418&refinements=p_36%3A428448031&rnid=428432031&s=computers&sr=1-2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">$200 keyboard</a> that had both function keys and media keys.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzYRc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzYRc.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Modern software IDEs have many, many keyboard shortcuts. They frequently use the function keys. But, on my keyboards I tend to have the keys dedicated to media control - since I value quick action to the volume controls. This reminded me how clumsy it is to have to use the <code>fn</code> key in combination with other modifiers.</p>
<p>Can anybody recommend a modestly priced keyboard which either has both sets of function keys AND media keys, or which at least has function keys plus volume controls?</p>
| Is there a keyboard with both function AND media keys |
<p>Answering my own question:</p>
<p>From ASUS support chat: it does not support dual link DVI.</p>
| 15545 | 2021-11-28T14:02:57.740 | |graphics-cards|compatibility|dvi| | <p>I have an old monitor with a dual DVI-D input and was wondering whether this card is compatible:
<a href="https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Graphics-Cards/Dual/DUAL-RTX2060-O6G-EVO/techspec/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus DUAL-RTX2060-O6G-EVO</a></p>
<p>I can see that it has the right DVI-D (digital) port, and that its maximum resolution is way above 1080p, but is doesn't explicitly say if the DVI-D port outputs dual DVI (my monitor's native is 2560x1600)</p>
| Any idea if this GPU (Asus DUAL-RTX2060-O6G-EVO) has dual DVI? |
<p>A few misconceptions for your device. The battery voltage is 24. The capacity is 2.2 ampere-hours, not 2.2 amperes. This (Ah) is the equivalent of the size of your gas tank, while a current measurement (A) would be more representative of the size of the pipe from the gas tank to the engine. Bigger pipe, more flow, but that's not important.</p>
<p>You have three wires to/from the motor. These devices are typically considered brushless DC motors, also called three phase motors.</p>
<p>The motor controller takes user input and converts it to pulses to the motor, in the correct frequency and the correct order to create the desired speed and direction.</p>
<p>You can expect that the motor has a voltage range rather than a specific voltage, but applying a voltage that is too low will provide insufficient power to move. Applying a voltage that is too high will certainly move the wheel/motor, but going too high means heat. Too much heat is bad.</p>
<p>With a 24v battery, using that figure as a baseline is a good start. One of my brushless motors is rated to 36v, but the manufacturer explained that the motor had sufficient components to handle 48v but I'd have to get an appropriate controller.</p>
<p>You can easily locate a 24v brushless controller, aka ESC, electronic speed controller and a servo tester to experiment with the motor. Your current figure should be checked at the battery, as the three leads for the motor are going to have pulsed current and will not be easily read with a digital or analog meter. One could determine useful information with an oscilloscope, but that's not part of the question.</p>
<p>With respect to the current draw, you've noted that the motor is 150 Watts. 150 divided by 24 is approximately 6 (amperes) at maximum power. Your ESC should be rated higher than that and a ten ampere ESC gives you some leeway.</p>
<p>The battery does not have a label indicating C rating (maximum discharge current) but it's safe to consider that 6 amperes (maximum) current draw (slightly less than 3C) is within normal limits.</p>
<p>One should aim to limit discharge of a lithium chemistry battery to no more than eighty percent depth, providing for (2.2 x 0.8) 1.76 ampere hours capacity. Pulling 6 amps at maximum current provides for somewhat less than 20 minutes operating time. This also matches with the battery marking of 52 WHr on the label. 150 Watts motor power divided by the approximately 50 WHr figure gives you one-third of an hour (20 minutes). It's unlikely you'd be operating at full current and for the purposes of this answer, 3 amperes current gives you about 40 minutes operating time between charges.</p>
<p>Consider also to install a current measuring/counting device such as a watts-up meter to the battery of your new construction. This provides you with instantaneous current reading but more useful, it provides total ampere-hour consumption. You can zero the device after the charge is complete, and check it regularly during use of the device, ceasing to enjoy your ride prior to reaching the 1.76 ampere-hour threshold.</p>
| 15546 | 2021-11-29T01:46:47.300 | |battery| | <p>I took apart the battery and brushless motor from my e-skateboard and want to use it in my own project.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFfOF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFfOF.jpg" alt="batter + ESC" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVp9q.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVp9q.jpg" alt="motor" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmPMa.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmPMa.jpg" alt="remote" /></a></p>
<p>And here is <a href="https://www.jaycar.com.au/medias/sys_master/images/images/9582177091614/GG2402-manualMain.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the product manual</a> if it helps.</p>
<p>I really want to re-use the existing hardware, i.e. battery, ESC, motor and or maybe the remote so that I reduce the cost of this project.</p>
<p>But once I took apart the battery and found there is no interface/socket for me to connect the ESC PCB connected to the battery to my RPi(if anyone could figure out how to connect this ESC to RPI, I'd love to hear about that), then I have 2 solutions to get the battery and motor work with my RPi.</p>
<ol>
<li>buy an ESC and use it to connect to battery and RPi and control the motor</li>
<li>hack the remote to re-use everything</li>
</ol>
<p>The most preferable approach is to re-use the existing ESC but I think it's too hard as I mentioned before there is no interface/socket to do that.</p>
<p>Then my 2nd preference is the option 1 as option 2 is hacky(because I need to use 2 of these set of hardware for the 2 rear wheels and not sure whether the 2 remotes will interfere each other, also the remote requires charging).</p>
<p>So if I go with option 1, I will need to know what's the voltage, operation current and peak current of the motor.</p>
<p>From the picture I show above, I can see the battery voltage and its current which are 24V, 2.2Ah. Also from the manual I can see that the watt for motor is 150W. From these information, will I be able to confirm that the Motor also uses 24V and 2.2 A current?</p>
<p>I want to proof my thought by measuring the motor.</p>
<p>But the problem is the motor has 3 cables, so how am I going to measure its voltage and peak current?
(Btw, I have multi-meter)</p>
<hr />
<p>Update:</p>
<p>I use multi-meter and checked the battery's voltage: 28.27V.
Also searched the battery against its model GB T 18287-2000 and found this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlFvf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlFvf.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Here is <a href="https://www.powerstream.com/p/IMP50110140S-60Ah.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the link</a> to this PDF, table is on the page 2.</p>
<p>As it mentions, the Charging/discharging (fast) is 30A *3.5h,
the Pulse discharging current (max) is 180A.</p>
<p>Not sure whether is this the max discharge current or not?</p>
| How to detect the voltage of a brushless motor |
<p>Get a cheap GPU with DisplayPort 1.4 or HDMI 2.0. A GTX 1050 or RX 560 will do.</p>
<p>(edit, probably take one with a power connection if there is a 25W limit from the slot)</p>
| 15566 | 2021-12-05T10:00:14.347 | |graphics-cards|server|pcie|power| | <p>I plan to build workstation based on supermicro X8DTi-LN4F. I'm aware it's very old but I'm buying it in very decent money. The only problem with this mobo is lack pci-express x16.
According to the spec available on <a href="https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/QPI/5500/X8DTi-LN4F.cfm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">supermicro site</a> it supports only pci-e x8 (means 25W limit), but looking at mobos picture it looks like one slot is x16 mechanically. Any ideas which card I may insert there without worries? I'm not going to run games on it, just desktop (probably some Linux of FreeBSD with Xmonad) usage but in 4k.</p>
| Which graphic card for supermicro X8DTi-LN4F motherboard? |
<p>TL;DR: I don't think what you are looking for exists; And if it does it still won't work for your Samsung drive.</p>
<p>USB can support communication with pretty much <em>any</em> device as long as that device implements the USB protocol and the host PC has a driver to go with it. There are all kinds of devices out there that connect SATA drives to USB ports by wrapping the SATA drive messages inside the USB messages. (See <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_Attached_SCSI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">UASP</a>)</p>
<p>SATA is an entirely different kind of data bus that is highly specialized for storage devices. The messages being sent out of the eSATA port on that laptop are in a language that USB devices don't understand or expect to receive over the wire. Also, there is no such thing like a "USB message wrapped in a SATA message", so USB clients can never be connected to a SATA port.</p>
<p>If an adapter like this existed it would be very complex and probably introduce a lot of opportunities for data corruption. It would have to emulate what the device on each end expects and convert the content of the messages between the two protocols.</p>
<ul>
<li>It would have to act like a USB host for the hard drive's side and therefore need something like an embedded OS or special chipset to do that.</li>
<li>It would have to act like a SATA storage device for the computer's side and therefore it could only relay SATA messages to the actual storage device. That would constrain this adapter to only supporting USB drives that have UASP support.</li>
</ul>
<p>In the end, even if the adapter did exist, you're trying to connect a drive that doesn't even use SATA! (The Samsung T7 uses NVMe storage technology)</p>
| 15572 | 2021-12-08T12:43:36.710 | |usb-c|adapter| | <p>Unfortunately, the laptop I'm using only has <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#USB_2.0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB 2.0</a> ports, which really slows down data transfer rates to this external hard drive:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lhes9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lhes9.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/portable-solid-state-drives/portable-ssd-t7-usb-3-2-1tb--gray--mu-pc1t0t-am/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung Portable SSD T7 USB 3.2 1TB</a></p>
<p>Fortunately, the laptop does have an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ESATAp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">eSATAp</a> port which is capable of very fast transfer rates. So, on Amazon, I searched for a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=USB%20C%20to%20eSata%20adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB C to eSata adapter</a>.</p>
<p>However, none of the ads seem to acknowledge the directional aspects of what I'm trying to accomplish; it is not clear (from reading any of the product descriptions I've read) that any particular product would successfully be able to accomplish transferring data to this external SSD (shown above) from the laptop's eSata port.</p>
<p>I fail to assume that just because something physically plugs two things together that it will function in both directions. This reservation was confirmed, for example, in this answer I found for this product:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPDYw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPDYw.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Does there exist a solution that does indeed work in reverse?</p>
| How to Transfer Data from an eSata Laptop Port to a USB C External SSD |
<p>There is such a thing as a "wireless ethernet bridge," but I don't know of any consumer models, only industrial models <a href="https://www.icpdas-usa.com/wf_2572.html?r=colin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like this one</a> probably more than you're willing to spend, but it's a place to start.</p>
| 15578 | 2021-12-10T03:55:57.043 | |wifi|ethernet|network-adapter|adapter| | <h2>The situation</h2>
<p>I want to connect a device to my home network. The device only have a RJ45 port and doesn't have any usb port. The device isn't far from my Wifi router, but I would prefer not to pass a wire through walls and ceiling. Instead, I was thinking to use a simple adapter that convert Wifi to an ethernet wire.</p>
<h2>The problem</h2>
<p>But here the thing, it turns out that the only hardware I can find to fill in for this role are wifi extender,repeater and hotspot. Given the device to connect isn't far from the router, those hardwares would just broadcast Wifi waves on top of those broadcasted by my router and therefore, could end up actively help make my entire Wifi network worse by creating noise. I'm not willing to sacrifice on the quality of my Wifi just to plug a single dumb device. If it come down to it, I will punch hole in walls and ceiling before doing that.</p>
<h2>The question</h2>
<p>Is there a device that simply connect to an WIFI network and convert the signal to an Ethernet port or cable?</p>
| Is there no simple Wifi to ethernet rj45 adapter? |
<p>The Asus RoG Strix G15 G513IE-HN004W is almost what you need, it performs good, has Windows (if needed, you can probably dualboot Linux), it has a dGPU, which is useful for testing, it has an 8-core Ryzen CPU, which is good to reduce compile times. The only less good thing is it only goes 3-5 hours on battery, which is less than the 3 other laptops you mentioned...</p>
| 15592 | 2021-12-14T20:54:05.190 | |laptop|development|quiet-computing|game-development| | <p>I am a computer science student who has done game development for a decent time now, but I have been doing it on a Alienware M15 R2. It works pretty well still. The problem is I also use it for school work and for general browsing, but this laptop drains battery fast and get's extremely loud. (It's a gaming laptop with a 2070 in it)</p>
<p>Right now I am considering the MacBook Pro 14, Razer Blade 14 and XPS 15. They look real nice and preform well. The Mac does well on battery, is quiet, better keyboard than previous years. The Blade 14 and XPS have windows though. I don't like Mac OS but I wouldn't mind getting used to it and I don't spending the money if it means a better experience. If Unity runs better on this device than any other, then 100% I'll get it. But if there is a windows device that has similar performance, doesn't get that loud and good battery then I'll take that.</p>
<p>Any other recommendations besides these? Anything that has good battery life and performance? Any rumors for devices coming out in the near future?</p>
| What is a good laptop for game development in 2021/2022? (Unity) |
<p>I have found a solution that works.</p>
<p>I bought the SOUTHSKY 5.1CH DAC Converter, and three RCA to 3.5mm cables (<a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-Adapter-smartphones-tablets-players-3-5mm-Female-2RCA-Male/dp/B07BN8PQQV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rca+male+to+3.5mm+female+adapter&qid=1639935036&sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">for example</a>).</p>
<p>I plugged the SPDIF cable into the TV and the Southsky box, then used the converter cables to connect the RCA to the 3.5mm cables and then into the amp/subwoofer. All 5.1 channels worked.</p>
<p>If there is a more elegant solution, I would happily hear it.</p>
| 15608 | 2021-12-17T20:49:20.537 | |audio-adapters| | <p>I have an old 5.1 sound system (Desktop Theater 5.1 by Cambdrige Soundworks) that was designed for connection to a PC, it's input is via 3 3.5mm audio jacks (one for front, one for rear, and one for centre+sub). (<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vf2lW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">see this image to get the idea</a>)</p>
<p>It still works, so I would like to connect it to a Smart TV (LG OLED48C14LB), but the only outputs from the TV I think will work (i.e carry 5.1 channels) are the SPDIF and eARC.</p>
<p>I have looked at the thread <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/6541/plugging-a-3-cable-5-1-speaker-system-into-a-single-3-5mm-jack/6558#6558">Plugging a 3-cable 5.1 speaker system into a single 3.5mm jack</a> but that talks about plugging into a PC or Mac, which isn't what I'm after.</p>
<p>I have had a look on Amazon, and I found <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEAGY-External-Channel-Surround-Adapter/dp/B07B628J7V/ref=psdc_430548031_t2_B095YB5SW4?th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this sound card</a>, but it's a sound card, so I assume it needs an OS to work, and I'm guessing the smart TV won't support it.</p>
<p>I also found <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/SOUTHSKY-Converter-Decoder-Support-Digital/dp/B07YFTR8L9/ref=sr_1_11?crid=IUGY69POZKX&keywords=spdif+to+5.1&qid=1639770916&sprefix=spdif+to+5.1+%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-11" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this adapter box</a>, so I could plug my 5 speakers in, but I would lose my sub woofer, as it is the hub for the other speakers, and doesn't accept RCA in, only 3.5mm jacks.</p>
<p>Is there something like the adapter box, but converts eARC or SPDIF into the 3.5mm jacks?</p>
| Convert from Smart TV eARC or SPDIF to front, left, center & sub 3.5mm cables |
<p>All SD card readers are using USB 3.0 (3.1 gen 1 / 3.2 gen 1) and even the UHS-II (fastest sd cards) are not bottlenecked by USB. Just gen an SD card reader with UBS 3.0 and it will be enough.</p>
| 15635 | 2021-12-28T22:30:42.300 | |usb|microsd| | <p>I want to know the max xfer speed for a SanDisk Extreme Plus microSD XC 1 V30 card in order to figure out if using a 10Gbps USB hub (Gen 2) would be faster than a 5Gbps USB hub (Gen 1). In other words, if the microSD XC 1 V30 speed is 5Gbps or less, then using a Gen 2 USB connection would buy me nothing.</p>
| microSD extreme plus xfer speed over usb |
<p>Its 2023 - and there's switches that ticked all my boxes. <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005992916169.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The one I got was listed in aliexpress</a> as the "HORACO 2.5GbE Ethernet Switch 4 Port 2500Mbps Network Switcher 2 Port 10G SFP+ Slot Home Lab Hub Internet Splitter Plug and Play", and the model is ZX-SWTGO24AS. There's an entire class of these switches, but this was at half off, at around 45 USD when I bought it. I went with the 4+2 since much of the rest of my network was 10g capable.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rTAgL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rTAgL.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I'm using the 2 SFP+ cages - one with an off brand DAC and one with a base T module from the same company. Amusingly the SFP+ module cost almost as much as the switch. I've <em>not</em> tested all 4 port at once but this class of switch <em>appears</em> to handle all 4 ports in other people's testing, and I've tried running speed tests through the 10G ports with good results.</p>
<p>Its also got screw holes, and practically is nearly as small as my old gigabit switch.</p>
| 15651 | 2022-01-03T10:03:06.377 | |networking|switch| | <p>I'm currently specing out my home network, and while going 'full' 10GBe capable is tempting, my options for upgrades are limited. I'm looking at a <a href="https://store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-switching/products/unifi-flex-xg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Unifi Switch Flex XG</a> . 2.5GBe is broadly supported and is a coming thing. While switch options for gigabit are plentiful (and I already have a low cost managed gigabit switch)</p>
<p>So here's what I'm looking at</p>
<p>Essentials:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Low cost. 300USD will get me a 10GBe Switch. I'm half certain I can get a modern unmanaged 1Gbe switch for maybe 20USD. I'm looking to pay ~100USD per 4 ports. At some point a second flex XG would make sense, but I'd rather not be plonking down another 300 USD for a switch that ends up being connected to a 2.5GBps media center box and a tele.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Compact - Most of the switches in my wishlist or currently in use don't have a ton of 'wasted' space. I don't want a switch that has 5 ports, and 5 ports space worth of panel and blinkenlighten. Being able to fit in the same footprint or slightly bigger than the Flex XG would be nice.</p>
</li>
<li><p>2.5Gbe (minimal requirement) or <em>better</em> support</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Nice to have</p>
<ul>
<li>'Wall' mountability. I have a TPlink TL-SG105 which I've mounted to the side of a desk with screws. The switch has little screw holes</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLhi6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLhi6.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<ul>
<li>Management capability, I can do unmanaged but it would be a nice to have considering some other plans I have.</li>
</ul>
| Low cost 4-8 port 2.5 GBe switch |
<p>The fastest AI gpu under €1000 is probably the RTX 3060 ti, and if you are lucky, RTX 3070. I know, those are cards for $500 MSRP, but gpu shortage... (thanks scalpers and miners). High prices aside, these are really nice cards when it comes to AI, they can even run some AI models in real time (AKA DLSS). I don't know how they preform with training AI models, but I guess the performance would be similar.</p>
| 15690 | 2022-01-17T14:08:12.207 | |graphics-cards| | <p>How can I have an estimation on training time of a ML algorithm based on the number of GPU CUDA cores? I am about to buy a Desktop and I want to know what GPU is best concerning the money I am about to spend.</p>
| Calculate the training time of a ML algorithm based on CUDA cores |
<p>The configurations are what HP can send with the laptop, but sure, why not do 2x16GB of RAM. How else will you get 32GB?</p>
<p>Okay now I need to get serious. Normally, the maximum memory size is determined by the BIOS and the memory controller. The maximum size per stick is determined by the memory controller, and also the optimal number of sticks. For your cpu, the optimal number of sticks is 2, the maximum size is 32GB per stick and the BIOS says the max total amount is 32GB. So 2x16GB should totally work, although HP does not have out of the box configurations that have those.</p>
| 15713 | 2022-01-27T10:02:11.700 | |memory| | <p>The official <a href="https://support.hp.com/za-en/document/c05686347" rel="nofollow noreferrer">documentation</a> of this laptop indicates that the laptop can take a maximum of 32GB RAM. The configuration however does not show that it accepts 16GB x2.</p>
<p>Can this laptop take 16GB x 2 RAM?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ytw2w.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ytw2w.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| HP ProBook 470 G5 Notebook - can it use 2x 16GB RAM modules? |
<p>Most NAS don't have HDMI,DisplayPort or etc output. This is your biggest challenge.</p>
<p>Maybe you can find a projector that will connect to your NAS directly, but it is likely your going to find you have limited video format support.</p>
<p>This is where a raspberry Pi or similar comes in handy as you can load Plex or Kodi or one of a hundred other thing onto it which will convert the video for you to whatever your projector supports.</p>
<p>A Pi 4 has wifi support so it could connect to the NAS wirelessly and the Pi 4 has HDMI and an audio port for you to connect to your projectors.
You will likely need samba for file sharing.</p>
<p>So the Pi 4 idea will likely offer significantly more options. If you need to decode h264 or h265 you will likely need something faster than a raspberry Pi 4.</p>
| 15820 | 2022-03-14T10:36:25.247 | |audio|raspberry-pi|video|nas| | <p>My partner and I will be buying an apartment and moving into it soon, and because we don't really watch TV or play on screen-dependant consoles, we're thinking of installing a video projector on the ceiling and using the wall as a screen. A colleague of mine had told me of all the upsides of having a NAS, and it does seem quite advantageous.</p>
<p>I was wondering if it would be possible to hook a NAS (don't know which brand or model I would need) to a videoprojector via an HDMI cable or equivalent, or if I would need to use a computer to link the two together, for example a Raspberry Pi with very basic software installed. Big upside if the setup can also handle audio, both playing alongside the video being sent to the projector, and independantly just as back ground music.</p>
| NAS to video projector - do I need a Raspberry Pi? |
<p>I suppose that this is slot for Mini-SATA (mSATA).<br />
It has 8 + 18 pins and has appropriate space for device like this:<br />
<a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1b/Intel_525_mSATA_SSD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1b/Intel_525_mSATA_SSD.jpg</a><br />
Also there are two places for holdings with screws.</p>
<p>More description:
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_(mSATA)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA#Mini-SATA_(mSATA)</a></p>
| 15841 | 2022-03-24T15:13:00.247 | |laptop| | <p>I have an old Lenovo Ideapad Y560, and it has access panels for everything (CPU, fan, disk, RAM, internet card, the computers were so easy to repair back then) but I am still stumped on what this could be.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jlk8k.jpg" alt="1" /></p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tjbrG.jpg" alt="2" /></p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xn99d.jpg" alt="3" /></p>
| What could this slot be for? |
<p>The AORUS FV43U will be at its full potential with the following display mode:<br />
<code>3840 x 2160 (UHD), 10-bit, 144 Hz, with Freesync and HDR</code></p>
<p>DisplayPort 1.4 on the GTX 1070ti will support the following mode at maximum:<br />
<code>3840 x 2160 (UHD), 10-bit, 120 Hz, with Freesync and HDR</code></p>
<p>I would say that is close enough, and even at 60Hz this monitor is going to look amazing. If you're playing newer games in UHD then the 1070ti might not reach 120 FPS anyway. You can always change the display mode to make some trade-offs too:</p>
<p><code>2560 x 1440, 10-bit, 144 Hz, with Freesync and HDR</code><br />
or<br />
<code>3840 x 2160, 8-bit, 144 Hz, with Freesync</code></p>
| 15851 | 2022-03-27T08:54:00.180 | |graphics-cards|monitors| | <p>I'm thinking about getting a large monitor that also can be used as a television.</p>
<p>The monitor I'm thinking about (Aorus FV43U) has DisplayPort 1.4, HDMI 2.1, and USB-C ports. I have an older graphics card (Geforce GTX 1070 ti) and I'm trying to understand if the monitor will even work to it's full potential here. As far as I understood it, my graphics card has no HDMI 2.1 capabilities but has DisplayPort 1.4. Would this be sufficient?</p>
<p>I'm not well versed with hardware, and actually had the wrong cable on my last monitor, so I'm trying to make sure the configuration actually works before I buy the monitor.</p>
| New monitor, older graphics card - will they work together? |
<p>Enough is enough. If you can get a quality 300W PSU, that will give you more reliability than a cheapo 600W one. Where I live, quality PSU's don't go as low as 300W, the lowest is 400W. Get them from a reputable brand (NOT aliexpress or Gigabyte, Seasonic or Corsair are better) and preferably with 80+ Gold rating.</p>
<p>BTW the power supply never impacts performance, only reliability and stability.</p>
| 15852 | 2022-03-27T12:20:21.820 | |pc|power-supply| | <p>I have found on shopping sites that small PSUs are little cheaper than 500+ Watts PSU.</p>
<p>So I want to buy the lowest one because I have no plans for adding external GPU.</p>
<p>I would be using 2x8 GB RAMs and Micro ATX motherboard (something like entry level B450 or B550). And I would use only stock cooler and <em>no overclocking</em>.</p>
<p>The official docs of this APU says:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Default TDP: 65W</p>
<p>AMD Configurable TDP (cTDP): 45-65W</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I am not sure if there's actually a relation between 65W and the Power Supply I need.</p>
<p>Or if it means the minimum PSU you need for this APU is 65W - I am not really sure.</p>
<p><strong>I also found</strong> on a site which recommended minimum 300W power supply for this APU without any dedicated GPU. And the recommendation was a little more (350W) if you want to use some entry level GTX GPU like 1050ti.</p>
<p>But they didn't give any reason for this. <em>But this lead me to conclude that it <em>can</em> be used for less than 500W power supply easily.</em></p>
<p><strong>So, I would like to know what minimum range of power supply unit for this APU. So that it gives quite the same performance which a higher PSU like 500 or 600 Watts would give.</strong></p>
| Minimum PSU for 5600G (no dedicated GPU) without compromising the performance? |
<p>The <a href="https://nl.hardware.info/laptops.18/asus-zenbook-14-um425uaz-ki023t.604506" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus ZenBook 14 UM425UAZ-KI023T</a> is probably what you are looking for, apart maybe a Framework. It has a fast CPU (R7 5700U), enough RAM (16GB), SSD, Windows 10 (although I am pretty sure it will work better with Linux, most laptops do, and forget about Windows 11, AMD processors work better with Windows 10 and Linux, Windows 11 is just for Alder Lake) and under €800 where I live.</p>
| 15857 | 2022-03-28T18:50:13.337 | |laptop|windows| | <p>Looking to buy a new laptop, and needed some options to choose from because I'm totally unaware of laptop characteristics and how they help. Ideally I would like to purchase a laptop
1)Latest Windows Version</p>
<p>2)Can handle R-studio, Python, SAS, SQL data science softwares</p>
<p>3)Also, because I run many simulations I'll need a laptop sith good RAM so can handle many data simultaneously</p>
<ol start="4">
<li>and a good CPU for running quickly the algorithms?</li>
</ol>
<p>My budget is up to £800 and advise on what should I look will be really helpful</p>
| Laptop Recommendation for Data scientist, with good RAM |
<p>Short answer: No.</p>
<p>Long answer: No. SP5 will probably have more than 6000 pins, using LGA, while the current EPYC CPU socket has about 4000 LGA pins. The current Ryzen cpu is also not compatible, because it uses PGA. Only Threadripper is remaining then, which also has 'just' 4000 pins. Today's CPU's don't support enough pins, and I'm not even talking about DDR5, PCI-e Gen 5, ...</p>
| 15860 | 2022-03-29T10:12:12.567 | |processor|motherboard| | <p>Not a whole lot is known yet about SP5, Zen4, or where Intel will be when these AMD products are available. However, will (any) current AMD CPU's fit the SP5 motherboards / socket?</p>
| Will any AMD CPU fit SP5? |
<blockquote>
<p>Given I don't know what to look for, this is my research.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>your specs of <strong>HDMI</strong> and <strong>60 fps</strong> and <strong>at least 720p</strong> are pretty low... such that a 10 year old might laugh and say my phone does better...</p>
<p>what used to be 30fps and 720p, the norm now is 60 fps and 1080p.</p>
<p>my motorola phone for example:
<a href="https://www.verizon.com/smartphones/motorola-edge-5g-uw/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.verizon.com/smartphones/motorola-edge-5g-uw/</a>
video : 4K UHD (30fps), FHD (60/30fps)</p>
<p>FHD = full high definition @ 1920 x 1080p, which is now becoming the old standard.
UHD = ultra high definition which is the now common 4k resolution at 3840 x 2160p.</p>
<p>Both are 16:9</p>
<p>off the shelf go-pro's and knockoffs are all 4k these days, typically at 30fps.</p>
<p>but just google <code>4k 60fps camera or camcorder</code> for starters</p>
<p>if you buy a high end video camera you can almost always dial its settings down from 4k to 1920x1080 and 30fps.</p>
<p>most everything is going to show up as <em>still</em> camera, but they all have video recording capability so look at the video recording specs. Find the one supporting the largest SDHC card you're willing to buy, 4k @ 60fps will eat up storage quick.</p>
<p><a href="https://camerajabber.com/which-cameras-shoot-4k-video-at-60fps/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://camerajabber.com/which-cameras-shoot-4k-video-at-60fps/</a></p>
<p><em>Which cameras can output 4k60 via HDMI</em>
<a href="https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4475627" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4475627</a></p>
<p>spoiler: Fujifilm X-T3 about $1000 and Panasonic camcorder WXF995 about $800</p>
| 15866 | 2022-03-31T03:53:35.430 | |displays|projector| | <p>Is there a video camera that can output in HDMI real time 60 FPS, with a least a 720p resolution and with zoom functionality?</p>
<p>I'd like to be able to easily display things on a larger HDMI screen with low latency. (tablet, phone, papers, objects, etc.)</p>
| Video camera that outputs in HDMI in real time, 60 FPS, at least 720p, with zoom functionality |
<p>I've been working with these a while. I picked up a pair of X540-T2 - they're 'server' cards, so run a little hot, though there's a version with a fan. The T suffix means native copper support so you don't need a SFP.</p>
<p>They're PCIe 2.1 x8 for TWO ports, and you can run a single port at full speed (tested by speed test) on a x4 slot with no issue. The x550 is a newer version that'll work on x4, but I've not found them cheap on the secondary market. They're about 90usd + shipping on aliexpress, but prices vary wildly - as of 2023. they're down to as low as ~20 USD or less. They are EOL but the current intel drivers support them. They <em>won't</em> downgrade to 2.5 or 5 gbps, so you'll need a 10gig copper capable switch or connect them directly. On windows the drivers are <em>excellent</em> and easy to use, and as older cards they're well understood. They have a mild tendancy to overheat, so run it on a system that's capable of cooling it. While both these cards are "obsolete", they're common and supported with current drivers.</p>
<p>I've <em>not</em> tried it yet, but most modern low cost 10Gbps cards are based off Aquantia chips - they'll work with the 'slower' multigigabit standards and are about the same price as my x540 for a single port. They do PCIe x4 and seem a better option in quite a few ways. I believe asus sells one, as well as various chinese vendors like comfast.</p>
| 15874 | 2022-04-01T07:55:25.040 | |networking|server|pcie|network-adapter|home-electronics| | <p>I'm from India.<br />
Please recommend:</p>
<ul>
<li>a 10Gig NIC card, or</li>
<li>a website that can be used to find info about this.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Specification/Requirements:</h2>
<ul>
<li>Supported speeds: 10Gig</li>
<li>To be used for PCIe x1 Lane</li>
<li>Copper, so RJ45 jack.</li>
<li>Available in abundance.</li>
<li>Longer EOL.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Software:</h2>
<ul>
<li>Better EOL</li>
<li>Readily available</li>
</ul>
| A 10Gig NIC card |
<p>any size drive will have the same size and plastic making up the SATA connector (power and data). Or SAS connector.</p>
<p>Unless you break that connector, which 99% of the time is poor user judgement plugging or removing cables, nothing out there is different.</p>
<p>A 3.5" drive will be a traditional spinning hard drive, and while they are pretty tough I've dropped them in the parking lot with no ill effects, they will never be as robust as a 2.5" <em><strong>S</strong>olid <strong>S</strong>tate <strong>D</strong>isk</em> that has no moving parts.</p>
<p>After that don't leave it like on a car dashboard in summer to cook to 180°F, they typically don't like that.</p>
<p><em>I bought a 2 TB external hard drive from Seagate and on the first day it stopped working.</em></p>
<p>It happens. Warranty replace it, and move on.</p>
| 15875 | 2022-04-03T09:15:03.980 | |hard-disk|data-storage|backup| | <p>I bought a 2 TB external hard drive from Seagate and on the first day it stopped working. Probably something broken inside. I never had expected that it will get damaged so easily.</p>
<p>So I'm reconsidering my decision to buy a new storage. Basically I need to store less frequently used data I have in case I need it in future. I want it for long term.</p>
<p>Also I'm surprised even when I handle my laptops roughly sometimes, it doesn't affect my laptop disks at all. They work fine. Maybe they use something better?</p>
<p>Should I try bigger like 3.5" hard drives? Would they be more safe?</p>
<p>Another decision would be to buy SSD but I really can't afford that.</p>
<p><strong>So, given all that, are there any other external hard drives that are less prone to damage? Maybe size of disk also matters?</strong></p>
<p>Also, I don't need something eye catchy. I don't care how it looks from outside. I want a reliable storage for long term and something that won't stop working so easily. I feels like a really big loss when you buy something new and it gets damaged on its first day. I hope you understand my dilemma.</p>
| Are portable 2.5 inch external hard drives more prone to internal damage? |
<p>The best recommendation based on how you asked would be...</p>
<ul>
<li>If you're doing a pc where you specifically care about low power and heat, such as if it were a home theater type pc where there is no fans in the case and you wanted extreme quiet then choose the lower voltage at 1.2v because that theoretically will be using the least amount of power and generating the least amount of heat which is what would be important here versus memory speed and performance.</li>
<li>but for any regular pc and one that you favor performance then get the 1.35v higher clock speed ram you mentioned.</li>
<li>I can't specifically tell you how much more heat a 1.35v DDR4 dimm would be over a 1.2v dimm; if the 1.35v dimm were cheaper I would simply buy that over any 1.2v ram.</li>
</ul>
<p>The 1.35v is within spec for DDR4 and is nothing to be worried about. The 1.2v is the original reference voltage for the DDR4 spec when it first came out however long ago. Nearly every motherboard supports 1.35v.</p>
<p>Best thing to do is for the motherboard make/model you're thinking about, check their QVL (qualified vendor list) and RAM compatibility before you buy RAM. You are not required to buy any specific RAM they list, use it as a reference such that if they list a bunch of 1.35v dimms at the higher clock speeds then you can be sure that mobo supports that clock speed. But, for example, if that list only shows up to DDR4-3200 and doesn't list any DDR4-4xxx, then don't go buy a DDR4-4xxx dimm.</p>
<p>The lower clock speed dimms all run at the reference 1.2v DDR4 voltage. All the performance ram simply runs at 1.35v in order to get that higher clock speed. There's very little to be gained or lost by trying to decide between the 1.2v or 1.35v other than <em>theoretical</em> power usage but that may even be a mute point since typically ram automatically downclocks itself to work with the ram speeds the motherboard is looking to use... which is to say even a DDR4-5133 may still work on a motherboard that doesn't advertise it supports it... but I'd only try that if I already had the ram in hand versus buying it and hoping it worked. A 1.35v dimm will not have any kind of negative impact.</p>
| 15876 | 2022-04-03T17:19:12.267 | |motherboard|memory|performance| | <p>There is the option to buy a new PC Desktop, about the memory ram, there are these two options</p>
<pre><code>Memory Kingston Fury Beast, 16GB, DDR4, 3200 MHz, PC4-25600, CL16, 1.35V.
Memory Kingston Fury Beast, 16GB, DDR4, 2666 MHz, PC4-21300, CL16, 1.2V.
</code></pre>
<p>At a first glance the first seems better than the second due the MHz value. But <strong>being curious</strong> - the reason of this post - observe that the volts values are different too: <strong>1.2</strong> vs <strong>1.35</strong></p>
<p>Because I am not an expert, about the volts</p>
<p><strong>Question 1</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>What is the best recommendation, the higher or lower? and why? or it does not matter?</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Question 2</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>What is the best recommendation for the motherboard, the higher or lower? and why? or it does not matter? My concern is that it has any negative impact in the motherboard in someway</li>
</ul>
<p>Consider the two questions involving performance and time life concerns.</p>
| Memory RAM for PC - is important the voltage value for performance and impact in the motherboard? |
<p><a href="https://insights.samsung.com/2021/10/07/pcie-4-0-vs-pcie-3-0-whats-the-difference/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://insights.samsung.com/2021/10/07/pcie-4-0-vs-pcie-3-0-whats-the-difference/</a></p>
<p>The <em>Gen</em> as in generation refers to PCIe 3.0 and PCIe 4.0.</p>
<p>4.0 has double the performance of 3.0, you can look all that up on google. The key point is whether you're motherboard supports PCIe 4.0 or not, PCIe was released in 2017 but nothing pcie 4.0 came to market for a while. It's been a while since I looked into it, but that's what you want to look in to.</p>
<p>The x4 reference is the pcie lanes that the m.2 ssd is using; there's x1, x4, x8, x16. graphics cards use either x8 or x16. The amount of pcie lanes that an ssd uses I believe is x4... they throw that <code>x4</code> into the ssd marketing to wow buyers, because, x4 just sounds b@d@ass added on with all that other technical jibber jabber. I don't think m.2 ssd, because of the size of it can do more than x4 you would need more pins and a full size pcie slot that is now a few inches long as opposed to about 1 inch.</p>
<p>more reading:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.trentonsystems.com/blog/pcie-gen-4-reference-guide" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.trentonsystems.com/blog/pcie-gen-4-reference-guide</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.makeuseof.com/best-budget-pcie-4-motherboards/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.makeuseof.com/best-budget-pcie-4-motherboards/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.cgdirector.com/guide-to-pcie-lanes/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.cgdirector.com/guide-to-pcie-lanes/</a></p>
<p><strong>be aware there are 2 kinds of m.2 ssd's. NVMe and SATA m2.ssd. So be sure to get the correct one for your motherboard, many support SATA m.2 ssd and only the higher end motherboards and servers offer m.2 nvme ssd.</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://www.backblaze.com/blog/nvme-vs-m-2-drives/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.backblaze.com/blog/nvme-vs-m-2-drives/</a></p>
| 15877 | 2022-04-03T18:15:15.660 | |linux|pc|hard-disk|ssd|performance| | <p>For a PC Desktop to be buy it in these weeks, there are the following SSD options:</p>
<pre><code>SSD HP EX950, 512GB, M.2, 2280, PCIe Gen 3x4, NVMe 1.3.
SSD HP EX950, 1TB, M.2, 2280, PCIe Gen 3.0 x4, NVMe 1.3.
SSD Samsung 970 EVO PLUS, 250GB, M.2, PCIe 3.0 x4, NVMe 1.3
SSD Samsung 980 PRO 1TB SSD M.2 2280, PCIe Gen 4.0 NVMe 1.3c
SSD Samsung 980 PRO 2TB SSD M.2 2280, PCIe Gen 4.0 NVMe 1.3c
</code></pre>
<p>To do the correct choice, I want to know</p>
<ul>
<li>What are the differences among Gen 3.0, 3.0 x4 and Gen 4.0?</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Note</strong> just in case - the PC Desktop is going to be used for Development and Server purposes with <code>Ubuntu</code> - is not going to be included other OS directly in the same PC. But yes other OS through Virtual Box is going to be included.</p>
| SSD: What are the differences among Gen 3.0, 3.0 x4 and Gen 4.0? |
<p>According to <a href="https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/radeon-rx-6500-xt-review,23.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/radeon-rx-6500-xt-review,23.html</a>, the 6500XT is faster in OpenCL than the 1650 Super in Cuda. But if your video edit software only supports CUDA and not OpenCL, the 1650 is faster. Since Premire Pro supports both, I would reccomend getting the 6500XT, but make sure the render device is your graphics card since CPU's also support OpenCL.</p>
| 15899 | 2022-04-20T02:54:12.227 | |graphics-cards|video-editing|rendering| | <p>I've heard a lot on YouTube reviews that 6500 XT is better than GTX 1650 but there's one bad thing about it. 6500 XT renders video at very slow speed especially in Premiere Pro (maybe rendering is done by CPU and not this GPU. I'm not sure how it works.)</p>
<p>So I can prefer 6500 XT any day for its better gaming. But I also have to render some videos. If there's significant difference between render times and 1650 render speed or video editing is better, I can sacrifice 6500 XT's extra FPS in gaming. I would choose 1650.</p>
<p>Given all that, is 1650 better in video editing and render speed as compared to 6500 XT? (Provided all other PC components are same).</p>
| Does GTX 1650 encode/render videos at better speed/performance than RX 6500 XT? |
<p>After researching and real-life tests here are my following conclusions:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Will an eGPU work within VMware Fusion?</strong> (I have seen a few posts saying that it was added into Fusion in a preview but nothing concrete since 2 years ago.)</li>
</ol>
<p>Yes. As per the <a href="https://docs.vmware.com/en/VMware-Fusion/12/rn/VMware-Fusion-12-Release-Notes.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">VMware Fusion 12 Release Notes</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li><p><strong>External GPU support</strong></p>
<p>Fusion provides support for external GPU when an external GPU is connected to the host. Choose the <strong>Prefer External GPU</strong> option from the Fusion UI.</p>
</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<ol start="2">
<li><strong>Will the eGPU provide minimal or significant performance improvement?</strong> (I know this is relative but I don't want to waste time or money.)</li>
</ol>
<p>The key is in the technical specs for the built-in vs external video card. The minimum supported card by macOS is the AMD Radeon RX 470. The comparison for these two cards from <a href="https://technical.city/en/video/Radeon-RX-470-vs-Iris-Plus-Graphics-645" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Technical City graphics card comparison tool</a>:</p>
<div class="s-table-container">
<table class="s-table">
<thead>
<tr>
<th style="text-align: left;">Specification</th>
<th style="text-align: center;">AMD Radeon RX 470</th>
<th style="text-align: center;">Intel Iris Plus Graphics 645</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Pipelines / CUDA cores</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">2048</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">48</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Core clock speed</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">926 MHz</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">300 MHz</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Boost clock speed</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">1206 MHz</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">1150 MHz</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Number of transistors</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">5,700 million</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">no data</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Manufacturing process technology</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">14 nm</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">14 nm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Thermal design power (TDP)</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">120 Watt</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">15 Watt</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Texture fill rate</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">154.4</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">50.40</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="text-align: left;">Floating-point performance</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">4,940 gflops</td>
<td style="text-align: center;">no data</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<ol start="3">
<li><strong>On a student budget, which video card can I get the most bang for my buck without breaking the bank?</strong></li>
</ol>
<p>This is hard to answer with too many variables. In short, whatever you can afford. I was able to get an MSI AMD Radeon RX 570 Armor 4GB OC for $130. This gave me a performance boost of over 300% (3DMark 11 benchmark tests).</p>
| 15902 | 2022-04-20T14:31:20.113 | |virtual-machines|macbook| | <p>I have started looking into eGPUs and their capabilities. My reason for using an eGPU is for coursework in CADD. I currently run a virtual machine to run the software for my classes (see list below). I have been able to run Revit 2022 successfully but I fear that as my classwork will start delving into more rendering my VM won't be able to handle the demand. One of my classmates heard me talking to an instructor about eGPUs and he offered to sell me a Razer Core X at a really good price. I am mostly interested in performance for CADD work but gaming would be a bonus.</p>
<p>So here is what I am wondering:</p>
<ol>
<li>Will an eGPU work within VMware Fusion? (I have seen a few posts saying that it was added into Fusion in a preview but nothing concrete since 2 years ago.)</li>
<li>Will the eGPU provide minimal or significant performance improvement? (I know this is relative but I don't want to waste time or money.)</li>
<li>On a student budget, which video card can I get the most bang for my buck without breaking the bank? (Understandably the market is kind of crazy due to chip shortages.)</li>
</ol>
<hr>
<p>Software for coursework:</p>
<ul>
<li>AutoCAD 2020</li>
<li>Revit 2022</li>
<li>Inventor 2020</li>
<li>Solidworks 2021/2022</li>
<li>AutoCAD Civil 3D 2020</li>
<li>AutoCAD Plant 3D 2030</li>
<li>Rhino 6</li>
<li>3ds Max 2020</li>
</ul>
<p>Apple laptop specs:</p>
<ul>
<li>13" MacBook Pro (2020)</li>
<li>1.4 GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i5</li>
<li>16 GB RAM (shared with GPU)</li>
<li>Intel Iris Plus Graphics 645</li>
<li>2x Thunderbolt 3 ports</li>
<li>macOS 12.3.1</li>
</ul>
<p>Virtual Machine specs:</p>
<ul>
<li>3 cores</li>
<li>12 GB RAM</li>
<li>Windows 10</li>
<li>VMware Fusion 12.2.3</li>
</ul>
| eGPU for performance increase inside of VMware Fusion |
<p>for RAM <em>always</em> consult the manufacturer documentation... it's free... it's easy... <em>no probably needs</em></p>
<p>google "P8Z77-V motherboard" results in</p>
<p><a href="https://www.asus.com/us/SupportOnly/P8Z77V/HelpDesk_Knowledge/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.asus.com/us/SupportOnly/P8Z77V/HelpDesk_Knowledge/</a></p>
<p>choose memory/device support and look for RAM QVL (qualified vendor list) as well as the basic user's manual.</p>
<p><a href="https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z77-V/E7074_P8Z77-V.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1155/P8Z77-V/E7074_P8Z77-V.pdf</a></p>
<p>page 2-6 <em>You may install 1GB, 2GB, 4GB and 8GB unbuffered and non-ECC DDR3 DIMMs into the DIMM sockets.</em> There are 4 sockets, so at most you can have 32gb total RAM using 4x8gb DDR3 DIMMs.</p>
<p>the RAM QVL will list approved memory speeds and timings, such as <code>F3-19200CL10Q-32GBZHD</code></p>
<p>The QVL shows <code>DDR3 1600</code> up to <code>DDR3 2600</code>. If you buy DDR3 greater than 2600, they will typically down clock and still work to meet the motherboard which is limited to DDR3 2600 but you do take your chances in doing so. With DDR3 being obsolete <em>kinda</em> you may only find cheaper DDR3-3200 for example, which is ok, but ideally choose something comparable to the RAM QVL. You do not require the <code>GSkill</code> or <code>Corsair</code> make, or only those makes listed on the QVL, while they are probably the better/best out there the no-name brands on amazon or elsewhere will work. Just go by DDR3 between 1600 and 2600 and a kit of 4x8gb dimms. There is an SSD QVL from ASUS you can also reference as well, although any sata ssd on amazon will work. consult the documentation and email ASUS for confirmation before buying a pcie nvme type storage device to hold a bootable operating system.</p>
| 15917 | 2022-04-23T08:12:12.880 | |motherboard|memory|hard-disk|ssd| | <p>I have my PC and unfortunately, it’s not a new one. I have motherboard P8Z77-V LX. So, I’d like to extend or replace old RAM which’s 8GB to increase it up to 32GB at least cos I want to develop games on Unity + AR + .NET / C#. In additional l’ve my old HDD it’s 500GB Seagate ST500DM0 which’s broken & doesn’t work properly cos I was used SWAP & it has killed HDD. Well, I want to replace it by SSD. Let’s say SSD by Kingston.</p>
<p>My question is what RAM & SSD can I buy for this motherboard P8Z77-V?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUgSm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUgSm.jpg" alt="Specs of my PC" /></a></p>
<p>PS: Yes, I know I have to buy GPU also, but I'm going to do it later :)</p>
| What RAM and SSD can I buy for this motherboard P8Z77-V? |
<p>As far as I know, double clicking and dragging are software features, not hardware features, so as long as the mouse is consistent with its clicks (and your OS supports it), you can double click and drag click. This means you should get a mouse with good reviews, and you are probably good with double clicks as well.</p>
| 15931 | 2022-04-30T07:02:44.767 | |gaming|mice| | <p>I was thinking of purchasing a new mouse, since my current mouse is not working properly. I was thinking of getting a mouse that is lightweight and can double click. I would prefer that it can drag click as well, but it is not compulsory to be able to do so.
In short,
Qualities the mouse should have :</p>
<p><strong>Lightweight</strong></p>
<p><strong>can double click</strong></p>
<p><strong>can be purchased in India and is under 50$</strong></p>
<p>I have found a mouse that is lightweight but I can't find any help online so as to if it can drag click or double click. <a href="https://www.amazon.in/redragon-Impact-Buttons-Precision-programmable/dp/B07HC4NBQ8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=QPIIVF5ZBFZ9&keywords=redragon%20m908&qid=1651301492&s=computers&sprefix=redragon%20m90%2Ccomputers%2C213&sr=1-4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This (Redragon m908)</a> is the mouse I am talking about. Can anyone recommend me such a mouse, or tell me if the Redragon mouse can double click?</p>
| Good cheap mouse for double clicking and can be purchased in India |
<p><a href="https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html</a></p>
<p>Radeon RX 550 @ 128-bit 4gb ddr5 is higher up with a score of 2718, priced at $158.</p>
<p>Radeon 550 @ 64-bit 2gb ddr5 is 2nd from the bottom with a score of 1958, priced at $99.</p>
<p>RX550 = 50watt, Dx 12.0, pcie 3.0 x8, core clock 1100 mhz, memory clock 1750 mhz, opengl 4.5, overall rank = 406</p>
<p>550 = no data, Dx 12 says 14 frames/sec.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Why I feel 4 GB variant can not be a good choice...</p>
</blockquote>
<p>the 4gb <em>variant</em> is the better choice between those specific two, as benchmark scores (if u believe them) also point out. The redit rationale about not being able to use all 4gb anyway is ridiculous. If it uses 1mb of video ram or 1000, 128-bit will operate twice as fast as 64-bit, simple as that! Where the rubber meets the road is in the comparisons between clock speeds of everything, which i cannot find for 550. But like with all other graphics cards makes/models the variants are always faster... usually the result of minor overclock, and sometimes extra ram.</p>
<p>The RX550 is better than 550; the 550 will not outperform the rx550.</p>
<p>There are many better cards than RX550.</p>
<p>Radeon RX6400 @ $160 second from top at best value chart: <a href="https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu_value.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu_value.html</a></p>
<p>the biggest factor may be in 550 not supporting latest versions of openGL and DirectX where the RX550 will, so that reason alone will likely make rx550 better than 550. The "550" probably went obsolete a few months after release when AMD got the rx550 selling, now the "550" is just obsolete already built cards that haven't been recycled yet where sellers are just looking to offload them.</p>
<p>what i could find: <a href="https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-550.c3407" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-550.c3407</a></p>
<p>550 shows same clock speeds as RX, so no, no way it'll ever be better than rx550; all amd probably did was update the memory bus to 128-bit and double the vram circa 2017 to compete with market competition.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-rx-550.c2947" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-rx-550.c2947</a></p>
<p>and given the fraud in the graphics market, hard to tell 550 from rx550 from 560 and 570; what you find as "rx550" advertised as 128-bit 4gb ddr5 you might get a 64-bit 2gb card so be careful with end of life stuff like that.</p>
| 15934 | 2022-05-02T05:37:09.623 | |graphics-cards|memory|ryzen| | <p>I was looking at this specific GPU named RX 550 / Radeon 550. Later I found out that is two variants. 2GB DDR5 and 4GB DDR5.</p>
<p>Then I realized one more difference: 2GB variant has 64 bit memory interface and 4GB has 128 bit.</p>
<p>Price difference is not a problem to me. It's not very significant.</p>
<p>I also checked official specifications especially about memory which shows the memory interface differences:</p>
<p><strong>2 GB variant:</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5xKV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/i5xKV.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><strong>4 GB variant:</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbnKq.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbnKq.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p><strong>Why I feel 4 GB variant can not be a good choice:</strong></p>
<p>I read some comments on Reddit that this GPU is not powerful anyway. So it won't be able to use 4GB anyway.</p>
<p>Some people say 128 bit is better than 64 bit as it will allow faster speed.</p>
<p><em>Maybe 128 bit memory interface is only used because it has 4GB memory? It has nothing to do with a fact like 128 bit is better than 64 bit?</em> I'm not sure. That is also what I'm curious about.</p>
<p><strong>Given all that, which one would give better performance on same PC for same games? And do 64 bit and 128 bit difference matter in this particular case?</strong></p>
| 2GB (64 bit) GPU vs 4GB (128 bit) GPU |
<p>According to <a href="https://support.hp.com/gb-en/document/c06719267" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HP's website</a>, your laptop contains a HDMI 1.4b port and 2 Thunderbolt ports capable of DisplayPort 1.2. These will be the limiting factors as to which resolutions and refresh rates your laptop can run, assuming you purchase cables running at that standard or higher and the monitor supports at least that standard or higher.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.hdmi.org/spec/hdmi1_4b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HDMI 1.4b specifications</a> say that it can handle up to 3840×2160 at 30 Hz, and 1920×1080 at 120 Hz. However, HP's website says your laptop is capable of up to 4k (3840x2160) at up to 60 Hz using the HDMI port.</p>
<p>DisplayPort 1.2 should be able to handle 1920x1080 at up to 240 Hz, 2560 × 1440 at up to 165 Hz, and 3840 × 2160 at up to 75 Hz. However, at this point there are no official guidelines restricting companies from calling their DisplayPort ports whatever version they want, so there is no way to know for sure.</p>
<p>In conclusion, you <em>should</em> be able to run either of the monitors you linked at full resolution and refresh rate using Thunderbolt to DisplayPort or HDMI (assuming you get compatible cables).</p>
<p>In my experience with a similar HP laptop, I could not get 4k at 60 Hz working on HDMI, but it worked with DisplayPort over Thunderbolt. 1440p at 75 Hz worked with DisplayPort as well, but I never tried HDMI.</p>
<p>If you need to change refresh rates or resolutions for specific monitors, it should auto-detect and keep your settings every time you use that monitor as well.</p>
| 15947 | 2022-05-05T19:48:03.110 | |laptop|monitors| | <p>I have HP EliteBook x360 1030 G7 Notebook 13" laptop. It's built-in monitor has Full HD resolution and 60Hz refreshing rate.<br />
I'd like to buy some kind of external monitor 24" or 27" to use with it. For example <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B09HH8JCRV" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> or <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07WSK5W7V" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a><br />
In case the external monitor will have 2K or 4K resolution or / and high refreshing rate i.e. 144Hz - will it be possible to use it with my laptop connected directly with HDMI cable?<br />
I mean will the external monitor work in it's high resolution / high refreshing rate in this case?<br />
In case I will need to perform some setting on the laptop to set the external monitor refreshing rate / resolution - will it be kept in case I change the external monitor? I'm working in hybrid mode - 2 days a week in the office (with some big monitor there) and 3 days at home, so I'm switching between monitors almost each day.</p>
| Will my laptop work properly with high performance monitor? |
<p>Most motherboards can boot from PCIe based storage, though it's difficult to guarantee it will work on a specific board without trying it.</p>
<p>In reference to you other question, you will not be able to boot from a software Raid. If you want to set up a Raid AND boot from it, you will need to use a hardware raid card like this: <a href="https://www.highpoint-tech.com/ssd7000-series-overview" rel="nofollow noreferrer">highpoint card</a>
But these are much more expensive than normal adapters.</p>
<p>Typical application is to use a USB drive to boot from and put everything else on a software Raid using the cheaper adapter.</p>
| 15958 | 2022-05-07T09:47:53.433 | |ssd|adapter| | <p>I have ASUS M5A97_R20 AM3+ <a href="https://www.asus.com/SupportOnly/M5A97_R20/HelpDesk_Manual/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.asus.com/SupportOnly/M5A97_R20/HelpDesk_Manual/</a> motherboard. With two PCI-E x16 slots and want to use M.2 NMVE -> PCI-E x16 adapter to attach the disk, is it possible to boot from such disk?</p>
| Is it possible to boot form M.2 NMVE on old motherboards? |
<p>what Robert said in the comment... <em>cell repeater</em>... is close. Look for <strong>Cellular Booster</strong>. Loaded on amazon, minimum price is around $130 currently. You can spend $500 easily on a good one, and upward of $1000. There's plenty of online articles and reviews and you can buy direct from manufacturer if you prefer... weboost, wilsonamplifiers,</p>
<p>The better ones in my opinion are those with the outdoor antenna being a yagi type of directional antenna; use "network cell info lite" on an android phone and it's map feature to identify which direction the cell tower is and then point the yagi antenna that direction (I know kinda catch 22 needing signal to know where the signal is coming from).</p>
<p>The indoor antenna (i.e. repeater) comes in a few flavors and strengths... one room power, whole house power, small business office coverage, etc. That's where the price goes up.</p>
<p>you said <em>mobile internet</em>. If by that you mean getting cell signal on the go... as you move around in your car, they have <em>mobile</em> cell boosters with an omni directional outdoor antenna (because as you move the location of the cell tower changes you wouldn't have a yagi on your car) and then the indoor repeater antenna is much lower power because all you need to cover is the inside of your car or rv.</p>
<p><strong>important</strong> : know the carrier and band your phone uses, and who you care about getting service for, not all boosters work on all service providers and bands. For example I am verizon and use band 13... in the specific home location where I have weak signal ... boosters that don't explicitly state <em>covers band 13</em> will not work in my specific scenario. Plenty of times I've seen.... <em>i've got full bars but he doesn't</em>... elsewhere where there is a booster/repeater being used and it's because one person's phone is verizon and the other person is at&t, or sprint, or whoever else, on different bands that the booster does not work on. So be sure to look into those details regarding band and carriers supported by cell boosters, the cheaper ones will be limited in who they boost, the one's that boost everything are $1000+. Use app on your phone (android = network cell info lite) to identify the band of your cell, what band it is serving and if it is 4G, or 3G; 5G currently is iffy don't expect to simply buy a booster and get full bars of 5G.</p>
| 15989 | 2022-05-19T21:13:09.133 | |mobile-phone| | <p>Looking to increase range of cellular internet (while not moving) as much as possible</p>
<p>Looking To get 20mbs in remote outdoors where there is a weak (but existing) signal.</p>
<ul>
<li>Amplifiers</li>
<li>Long portable antennas</li>
</ul>
| How to increase range of cellular internet? |
<p>As long as you get the same resolution, nothing will change in performance.</p>
<p>Though, if you match your graphics card with the monitor: AMD GPU + monitor with Freesync Premium / NVIDIA GPU + monitor with G-Sync, it can actually make your gameplay <strong>seem</strong> smoother/more pleasurable to your eyes, in games where your FPS may drop. Thanks to "low frame rate compensation (LFC)", your monitor will adjust its refresh rate to match your frame rate, so no tearing occurs.</p>
| 16007 | 2022-05-25T03:11:47.007 | |monitors|performance| | <p>So I've been playing an FPS game which gets around 70~80fps usually. Upgrading my graphics cards is not an option now, so I'm willing to buy a monitor with 144hz, but I'm not sure if it would make any difference because of the fps I'm getting now. From your experience, would it be worth in terms of gaming performance?</p>
| Is it worth getting a 144hz monitor when FPS games go only 80fps? |
<p>I bought <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-au/work/shop/dell-thunderbolt-dock-wd19tbs/apd/210-azdd/pc-accessories" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dell Thunderbolt Dock (WD19TBS)</a> it worked fine. It allowed me to utilize 3 FullHD displays just fine. It was actually more than FullHD, it was 1920x1200, thus the <code>Thunderbolt-3</code> can do it.</p>
<p>But there was a catch. My notebook (Dell Precision 5520) can only run 3 displays. So if I use 3 external displays with my docking station, my laptop display is getting turned off.</p>
<p>My notebook (Dell Precision 5520) is not the only one suffering from it. It is a new trend, new laptops these days have kind of 2 video cards. In my case it is <code>Nvidia Quadro M1200</code> with 4Gb of video memory and <code>Intel HD Graphics 630</code> with shared memory. <code>Nvidia Quadro M1200</code> - designed to have no video outputs, it works like a "slave". <code>Intel HD Graphics 630</code> - is a "master" in this context. So the "master" sends all the heavy calculations to be processed by the "slave" and only displays what is returned by the "slave". Thus, even having 4GB of video memory and "Nvidia Quadro" on board, the overall configurations still limited to the number of screens that the "master" video card can provide.</p>
<p>Lucky we have <a href="https://support.displaylink.com/knowledgebase/articles/525038-displaylink-display-resolution-support" rel="nofollow noreferrer">displaylink</a> on the market, they make chipsets that work like external video cards. For example DL-6950 chipset has 2 outputs, the maximum resolution is 3840x2160 (UHD) if both video outputs are being used. This chip is used to build a number of Adapters. Popular Startech <a href="https://www.startech.com/en-au/audio-video-products/usb32dp24k60" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USB32DP24K60</a> <a href="https://www.startech.com/en-au/cards-adapters/usba2dpgb" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USBA2DPGB</a> and little known <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B094G5JLNC" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ELECABLE</a></p>
| 16013 | 2022-05-31T23:54:29.653 | |hdmi|multiple-monitors|thunderbolt| | <p>My notebook (Dell Precision 5520) has <code>Thunderbolt 3</code>.</p>
<p>Thunderbolt 3 provide 40Gbps (double the speed of Thunderbolt 2).</p>
<p>In terms of video it has
8 lanes of DisplayPort 1.2 (High Bit RTE 2 (HBR2) and MST).</p>
<p>It should support two 4K 60 Hz displays.
But I don't need 4K screens. I need Full HD screens, but I need not 2, but 3 of them.</p>
<p>When I look at specifications for Docking stations, I see that those of them that provide 3 screens require "<code>HBR3 or Displayport 1.4</code>" or "<code>DP1.4 with DSC</code>"</p>
<p>My question is - will I have a 3 screen docking station working from my Thunderbolt 3?</p>
<p>Because from the bandwidth perspective it sounds like more than enough for 3 FullHD screens.
And 8 lanes of DisplayPort 1.2 should cover 3 screens.</p>
<p>But, maybe there is another reason to request <code>HBR3</code> or <code>Displayport 1.4</code> to work with these docking statins?</p>
| Thunderbolt 3 to triple HDMI |
<p>All 2.5in SSD's should work, and at full speed. I personally love the Crucial MX500, since it's cheap and availible in packeges up to 4TB. I don't reccomend using the 4TB model though, since that may be limited to 2TB if your BIOS does not support GPT.</p>
| 16014 | 2022-06-01T04:10:30.087 | |laptop|hard-disk|ssd|upgrade| | <p>I want to know what is the proper SSD for my Dell Latitude E5550 i7 5th gen., 8GB RAM. Right now I have a HDD and wish to upgrade my computer a little bit. I found the user's manual and the <a href="https://www.dell.com/learn/us/en/uschn1/shared-content%7Edata-sheets%7Een/documents%7Ecsg-en-xx-all-latitude-15-e5550-spec-sheet.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spec sheet</a> online, where the storage options are described (right column of the image). The storage capacity is clear enough, nevertheless, I don't know whether if I can install any SATA SSD, i.e., SATA II or III, or maybe there's a limit related with the SSD speed. What dimensions of SSD are compatible and which will be the best?</p>
<p>Thanks in advanced.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSmXZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSmXZ.png" alt="Storage Options" /></a></p>
| What is the proper SSD for DEll Latitude E5550? |
<p>It will be safe to use a type-C to micro type-B adapter.</p>
<p>The 100W power delivery that USB-C provides can only be used by another USB-C device. That's because there are extra pins that communicate the power requirements and allow both devices to agree on a power mode.</p>
<p>If those pins aren't connected (like when converting to USB 2.0 or 3.0 Type A/B), then the USB-C port will deliver the standard 5V power over the power pins to remain backwards compatible. There will be no harm to the phone.</p>
<p>This backwards compatibility might provide only 900 mA of current as that's what USB 3.0 specifies. It might be a slower charge than those 12V car outlet chargers can do.</p>
| 16016 | 2022-06-01T07:50:58.900 | |usb|usb-c| | <p>I have a USB-C female port in my car and my smartphone only has a micro USB connector. Is there any risk to plug my phone in with a micro USB/USB-C adapter?</p>
<p>I know that USB-C can deliver up to 100 W of power and I'm not sure if the integrated USB-C device in my car will be "smart" enough to limit the power delivered. I cannot find any information in the car manual neither find a definitive answer on the internet.</p>
| Micro USB phone into USB-C integrated slot in a car |
<p>I think the Sharkoon Skiller SKG5 stores macro's and can run them without Sharkoon software. Although you do need the Sharkoon software to set them up, I think it flashes it to the keyboard, so it can also be used on other computers. It is also avalible in AZERTY and QWERTY layouts.</p>
<p>About price, I don't know the price now, but when I bought mine, it was €40.</p>
<p>(BTW I cannot test anymore if you can run the macro's without software, the Sharkoon software only runs on Windows and I don't use Windows anymore)</p>
| 16018 | 2022-06-01T19:29:06.073 | |memory|keyboards| | <p>I'm looking for a keyboard that can execute macros stored in onboard memory without installing any drivers or software. It's fine if software is required to set them up, but they need to be used on a computer with very few permissions. Anyone have any recommendations? Trying to keep it under $100 if possible.</p>
<p>If I can make the macro without having to record actual keystrokes, that would be a bonus.</p>
| Looking for a keyboard that can run macros without installing software |
<p>I've had good performance out of the Archer series: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B079JD7F7G" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Archer A7</a>
They are cheap, last forever, and they can do DHCP reservations.</p>
<p>For my test systems, I run <a href="http://dhcpserver.sourceforge.net/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Open DHCP</a> on my computer, assign it to run on a specific IP address and give that IP address to the port I have connected to the equipment. Then I put reserved addresses in the config file if I want them.</p>
| 16025 | 2022-06-03T18:07:40.030 | |router| | <p>I need to find an inexpensive router that supports DHCP reservation via MAC address.</p>
<p>This is for a production test system for some custom hardware devices that we manufacture. The devices support DHCP and start out with a fixed MAC address. I want to have the router assign a fixed IP address as soon as the device boots up so my test software can ping it to verify that the ethernet port is working. Then, I will disconnect that device and connect another.</p>
<p>So the router needs to support DHCP reservation and be able to sense when the client hardware has been disconnected and a new one reconnected.</p>
<p>And like</p>
<p>Does anyone have suggestions?</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
| Need inexpensive router that supports DHCP reservation |
<p>I cannot tell easily from the samsung monitor, but you can also get the <a href="https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1338760/lg-27ul550-w-zwart/specificaties/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG 27UL550-W (link to Tweakers)</a>, which, according to <a href="https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/09ac17f7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DisplaySpecs</a> has double HDMI 2.0 and DP 1.4. The features and price are similar (both IPS, both 4K 60Hz, both FreeSync, the LG is about €90 cheaper where I live) so if your shop has both, first try the LG, if it doesn't work, continue blaming the shop if they didn't tell you that it maybe does not have double HDMI 2.0.</p>
| 16044 | 2022-06-09T11:10:17.453 | |monitors| | <p>I am looking at buying a cheap-ish 4K monitor to use with my computer as well as an Xbox Series X and a PS5.</p>
<p>As such I need at least 3 inputs. The computer can do Displayport, the two consoles only HDMI.</p>
<p>As such, I need at least the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>1x Displayport capable of 4K @ 60Hz</li>
<li>2x HDMI capable of 4K @ 60Hz</li>
</ul>
<p>Last time I purchased a monitor I ended up with a Philips after two rounds of returning the unit to the store because they kept promising that both the HDMI ports supported 4K @ 60Hz, when in truth only one of them did.</p>
<p>This piece of information is not readily available either, so how can I know what the ports support? Most of the time they just say "supports 4K @ 60Hz, and got 2 HDMI ports", and that included the two monitors I had to return as well as the third I finally got that supported it.</p>
<p>Specifically, I'm looking at this monitor here:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><a href="https://www.samsung.com/ie/monitors/high-resolution/uhd-monitor-28-inch-lu28r550uquxen/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samsung LU28R550UQUXEN 28"</a></p>
</blockquote>
<p>This lists two HDMI ports and the specs also says HDMI version 2, but that's exactly what the two Philips models I had to return did as well, they just silently hid that the 60Hz support was only available on one port.</p>
<p>My fallback plan is to just make it the stores problem, again, by explicitly stating I need a monitor with two HDMI ports with support for 4K @ 60Hz, and then just keep returning it until they give me one that works, but this makes it hard to sort of figure out what kind of budget I need.</p>
<p>Any advice would be most welcome.</p>
| How to know if a 4K monitor with 2x HDMI supports 60Hz on both? |
<p>Agreed, Discrete GPU will be better for gaming, at least in this case. So its a toss up, either get better cpu with the i7 or better gpu with the i5.</p>
| 16065 | 2022-06-17T13:03:07.573 | |laptop|graphics-cards|gaming|pc|intel| | <p>Is core i7 10th (10710U) gen 16gb ram with uhd graphics better or core i5 10th (10500H) gen 8gb ram with 4gb GTX 1650 for like pentesting and sone GTA 5 and csgo and call of duty asking for laptops like msi gf63 thin is core i5 and dell xps 13 7390 is i7?</p>
| i5 with gpu vs i7 without gpu which is better |
<p>From the linked site, in the accessories section, this cable appears to be the match:</p>
<p><a href="https://apogeedigital.com/shop/2-meter-micro-b-to-lightning-cable-for-mic-plus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://apogeedigital.com/shop/2-meter-micro-b-to-lightning-cable-for-mic-plus</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rax.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rax.png" alt="USB to lightning cable" /></a></p>
<p>Direct paste from link:</p>
<pre><code>Compatible with MiC Plus, HypeMiC and Jam Plus
For connecting to iPad, iPhone or iPod with Lightning connector
</code></pre>
| 16074 | 2022-06-20T04:00:13.370 | |usb|microphones|cable| | <p>I am looking for a Micro USB to Lightning cable. (i.e. micro USB at one end, Lightning at the other end)</p>
<p>Any recommendations? I've checked out Amazon and Best Buy to no avail.</p>
<p>Required in order to hook up <a href="https://apogeedigital.com/products/hypemic" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this mic</a> to my iPhone.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
| Looking for a micro USB to lightning cable |
<p>Go to a website like HP, Dell, or Slimbook and select these components:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mid-tier 4-6 core processor with integrated graphics</li>
<li>16GB Ram (32 if you want to future proof it)</li>
<li>250-500GB NVMe SSD for boot</li>
<li>1TB HDD for storage</li>
</ul>
<p>This is about the best price to performance for developing on a virtualization platform right now.</p>
<p>I would recommend that you use Ubuntu as your main OS and put Windows in a VM. Any linux distro will need to reboot less than windows and will make a better host OS.</p>
<p>If you buy it from Slimbook, you can have them install Ubuntu and add the windows VM yourself later. They will also setup dual boot for you if you choose that option in the OS category. If you purchase from Dell or HP, they will come with Windows installed and you will need to setup the dual boot or VM of Ubuntu yourself.</p>
<p>At <a href="https://slimbook.es/en/store/slimbook-kymera/kymera-ventus-amd-comprar#" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this link</a>, you can configure these options for 784€ at the time of posting:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ryzen 5 3350G</li>
<li>16GB RAM</li>
<li>250GB NVMe SSD</li>
<li>1TB HDD</li>
</ul>
| 16077 | 2022-06-21T16:04:44.150 | |windows|ubuntu| | <p>Which desktop should I buy for dual booting Ubuntu and Windows? Or running Ubuntu in a virtual machine with windows? I understand that the Mac Pro is a very fast machine but I don't know about what software is available as it is a somewhat closed environment. I do development on Python and R on the Ubuntu platform and office stuff on the Windows. Now I use two computers, but have space for only one.</p>
| Which desktop should I buy for dual booting Ubuntu and Windows? |
<p>peruse the Western Digital website, last I looked they had various models of 3.5" drives... such as red, blue, green, look specifically for the models that are rated for powered on all the time and choose accordingly for read/write performance and frequency. I only mention WD because what I remember their website presented a model layout that was to the point, I'm sure all the other makers (seagate, toshiba, whoever) have similar model lineups. Whether the disk is internal to a computer tower of <em>external</em> which it really isn't, the disk is still in a case. Any <em>external</em> usb connected disk would operate no different, while always plugged in it would actually be off until you tried to read/write from it and take a couple seconds to spin up.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Is it healthy for such device to stay plugged in for a long time?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>yes, especially when your operating system power policy spins the HDD down and or powers it off, same goes for SSD's. My old 3tb hdd's, in my tower, one mounted as D: (data) and E: (bkup) my D: disk is always on when the computer's on but 90% of the time the E: disk is powered off by windows because I never access it until I need to copy something from D: to E: to back it up. The same would/should be the case for your external usb disk given how you mentioned non-continuous read/write needs of it.</p>
| 16079 | 2022-06-21T19:27:13.263 | |usb|hard-disk|data-storage| | <p>I have a small home server for which I want to buy an external drive (SEAGATE BACKUP PLUS HUB 6TB HDD). Without going into details, it is currently the only way to increase the available storage space.</p>
<p>Is it healthy for such device to stay plugged in for a long time? More precisely, the data will not be read and written continuously, but at certain intervals (sometimes up to several dozen minutes, sometimes every few hours). For convenience, however, the drive will need to remain plugged into the server via USB all the time.</p>
| External drive plugged in for long time |
<p>You should be fine with 750watts, I plugged in your parts list in PC part picker and the wattage was about 550 so a 750 is almost 200 watts more(counting in case fans and other peripherals) but if you want o be safe can go up a level to 800-850 watt PSU <a href="https://pcpartpicker.com/list/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://pcpartpicker.com/list/</a></p>
| 16092 | 2022-06-25T00:18:10.733 | |graphics-cards|processor|pc|power-supply|compatibility| | <p>just bought the components for my first build:</p>
<ul>
<li>MSI RTX 3080 gaming Trio Z</li>
<li>Ryzen 7 5800X (Without an IGPU)</li>
<li>Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L RGB V2</li>
<li>ASUS ROG Strix B550-E Gaming</li>
<li>PNY 3600MHZ 2x8gb RGB sticks</li>
<li>MSI MPG Series A750GF 80 plus gold PSU</li>
<li>Lian Li LanCool II mesh</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm quite unsure of the motherboards power consumption but the GPU and the CPU consume from 512-475 (According to tomshardware the CPU can reach 142 watts) so will this system work fine or not.</p>
| Is 750 watts enough for a Ryzen 7 5800X and a MSI RTX 3080 gaming Trio Z |
<p>The O6G is probably better binned silicon by Asus which is tested to be more stable at higher boost clocks. But looking at all your concerns it looks like the 6G is a better fit for your needs, since the difference might not be that great for the money and you want to keep it at stock speeds without tweaking. IMO just go for the 6G, at the very worst, if you wish, you could probably OC it to match the 06G if you ever get comfortable with Ocing. Thats why the 06G was created, for folks who dont want to OC their GPU's</p>
| 16096 | 2022-06-26T08:10:54.007 | |graphics-cards|pc|cooling| | <p>I'm looking at two graphics card models from Asus:</p>
<ol>
<li>DUAL-RTX2060-O6G-EVO</li>
<li>DUAL-RTX2060-6G-EVO</li>
</ol>
<p>As you can see, both are RTX 2060 graphics cards. I compared their official specifications and they have exactly same tech specs except following:</p>
<p><strong>O6G</strong>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XqI8V.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XqI8V.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><strong>6G</strong>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/37LXU.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/37LXU.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So, I believe the only difference in both is the clock speeds in Boost and Gaming modes. <strong>O6G</strong> seems better (if more == better).</p>
<p>The price difference is not huge but <strong>O6G</strong> is little more expensive.</p>
<p>Apart from that, my main doubts in choosing one of them are:</p>
<ol>
<li>I will use a stock ryzen coolor (and a low budget B550M motherboard) with my Ryzen 5 5600 CPU. So I feel if I buy <strong>O6G</strong>, it will give better performance while doing work/gaming but at the cost of more heat generation</li>
<li>I personally feel like OC graphic cards generally generate more heat and <em>performance boost is not that significant</em>. So a default clock GPU would be better if heat is a factor.</li>
<li>Even if I buy the <strong>O6G</strong> model, I will tend to use it a default base clock to ensure a longer life of the card and less heat. I would disable the OC feature. <em>But I'm not sure if it is officially provided by a GPU brand in their OC GPUs or not.</em> If there's a feature/option provided by GPU brand (Asus in this case) to disable OC mode, I would probably buy any of the models. For example, I would buy <strong>O6G</strong> if it were cheaper. It won't make a difference to me. I've read that <em>Afterburner</em> software allows you to change clocks and power but I don't want to use any third party software. I'm not comfortable with tweaking settings and I fear I'll mess up the hardware.</li>
<li>If the difference is not just the clock speeds and minor gaming/working improvements as discussed above, e.g. some other useful feature/function/benefit which <em>O6G</em> has and <em>6G</em> doesn't have, I don't want to be limited to them. I will probably go for <em>O6G</em>.</li>
</ol>
<p>I've also read here and there that factor OC cards can have little less life as compared to default ones.</p>
<p><strong>So given all my doubts, which would you recommend? Would you still recommend O6G?</strong></p>
| O6G vs 6G graphics card from same brand |
<p>You should search for portable bluetooth speakers.
Most units will include a memory card slot and enable playback of files directly, which should do what you want.</p>
<p>It's unlikely that you'll find a unit that ONLY includes a memory card slot and no bluetooth/radio/usb/etc. There just isn't enough demand to justify "simpler" devices and the extra cost associated with the features is likely minimal.</p>
<p>By doing a quick search for "Bluetooth speaker with memory card slot" on Amazon, I found several speakers that would accomplish what you need for a fairly low cost (around $30USD). No doubt that other vendors or brick-and-mortar stores will also carry a selection.</p>
<p>Sadly, if you absolutely do not want other features, you'll probably have to learn how to make it yourself or pay someone to do so.</p>
| 16133 | 2022-07-07T11:39:53.043 | |audio|music|mp3-player| | <p>I've long been hunting in all the local stores and online but cannot find a single unit like this, which is baffling to me.</p>
<p>I'm talking about some sort of small audio player which consists of only one or two speakers, a volume knob, a power button, a pause/resume button, a "next" and "previous" button, and a memory card slot.</p>
<p>I can find ones which have a cassette player, radio, CD, etc., as well as a USB socket, but I don't want those for these reasons:</p>
<ol>
<li>I don't need any of those features, so it takes too much space and costs too much money.</li>
<li>A USB socket is not the same as a memory card slot, even though they are basically the same technology, because an USB stick "sticks" (no pun intended) out from the unit in the front and thus both looks ugly and ruins the compactness.</li>
</ol>
<p>It should support MP3 and FLAC files. If there is only one "track" (file) on the memory card, it should loop it perpetually.</p>
<p>My purpose of this would be to put on a 30-minute recording of the soundtrack of "Zora's Domain" from the 1998 video game Ocarina of Time to play constantly while I'm in the kitchen as a soothing background sound.</p>
<p>I currently have a white noise machine in the kitchen, but sadly it only has a few baked-in sounds that loop and no slot for a memory card (or USB). It eventually gets on my nerves to hear the white noise and such sounds.</p>
<p>Also, in Christmas time, I would replace the Zora's Domain file with some digitized classic Christmas music tracks from my childhood which can play instead.</p>
<p>I'm not looking for anything that uses "Bluetooth" or whatever and requires some other device to be "streaming" data to it, or which requires "wifi"/Internet.</p>
<p>Is this really such a niche concept that there is no such thing?</p>
| Is there a minimal, cheap device which just plays sound files from a small memory card? |
<p>I have found the item on AliExpress called "Converter DisplayPort Male to Female". It is for some reason hard to find in search, even when I know the item is in stock, try with the following request: "HD DP Video Converter DP1.4 To DP Female Mini DP Adapter" or "DP-090-A".</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRVXk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRVXk.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>You can "disable" latches by using this adapter. And you do not need to break your existing cables.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EctrB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EctrB.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbVBB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbVBB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BBX4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7BBX4.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Note, there is a similar item - dp female to male adapter, that looks like this:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctQik.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctQik.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Do not buy it, because it has latches on itself.</p>
| 16136 | 2022-07-08T01:33:08.123 | |display-port|cable|adapter| | <p>I have a problem with disconnecting DisplayPort cables. Almost all other connection cables are normal, but with dp it is another story. Some dp cables has latches - a locking mechanism. It does not allow you to just pull the cable to unconnect it. You need to press the mechanical button that will release latches.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7H0Y.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7H0Y.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This was probably designed for "reliability", but that really brings nothing more than problems! This button is hard to press sometimes, and is inconvenient even when you can do it. And there are situations when you just physically cannot press it, leaving you in locked down position.</p>
<p>In my case, I cannot disconnect dp cable before I remove the DVI cable, see picture:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Pmgc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Pmgc.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I disassembled my cable, and unfortunately, I doubt I could successfully remove that mechanism and then assemble the cable again.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ron36.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ron36.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I know there are cables without latches and I can purchase such to replace mine. But still there are situations when you cannot just replace cable. In my case, the DisplayPort to hdmi adapter also has such latches, and I suffer from this same problem.</p>
<p>So the question is: does such adapter exist that can take a male displayport connector with latches, and output the male displayport but without latches? In other words, can I remove latches by placing adapter and not by modifying the cable itself?</p>
| Is there an adapter to remove locking latches on DisplayPort male connector? |
<p>Ok, i somehow found it now:</p>
<p>fn4 are pretty much just <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+true+wireless" rel="nofollow noreferrer">true wireless headphones</a> without any extras (although some, like me, actually don't like active noise cancelling anyways because many implementations create pressure and hurt your ear even more over time) but still cost more than some others at this point in time.</p>
<p>fn5u has active nc and the uv anti bacteria cleaning</p>
<p>fn6 is the same but qi charging box instead of active noise cancelling</p>
<p>fn7 has all of the above</p>
<p>As it seems there's none which's audio features you can't control via the extra app.</p>
<p>The dfp lineup seems to have more microphones and LG claims them to have better audio. Their shape also seems slightly different to me, although which design is better may be subjective. Furthermore the feature to use one bud as microphone for whispering on phone calls seems exclusive to the dfp line-up and ear caps from some medical material. They still have the uv cleaning btw.</p>
<p>Besides that:</p>
<p>dfp3 (not even meridian sound if that really makes any difference)</p>
<p>dfp5 (ac)</p>
<p>dfp8 (ac and qi loading case)</p>
<p>dfp9 (no qi but „plug and wireless“)</p>
<p>I hope this is a simple helpful list for anyone who wants to buy a pair.</p>
<p>Although the better ones aren‘t really budget products anymore of course.</p>
| 16160 | 2022-07-23T11:35:28.917 | |audio|headphones|earphones| | <p>(Hey, so i was searching for a (relatively) cheap pair of in ear wireless headphones with decent audio quality, ac doesn’t matter to me. Now i stumbled upon a seemingly good deal on a pair of lg tone headphones but) looking up the difference to other versions, i couldn’t even find <strong>official</strong> specs for all of them. It‘s confusing - it’s nothing complicated, nonetheless some aren’t even listed anywhere besides (trusted) retailer sites. So: <strong>what <em>is</em> the difference between all the lg tone (free).. fp 9 8 7 6 5 fn 6 7 5u etc etc ?</strong></p>
<p>Stuff like:</p>
<p>Quality</p>
<p>Design changes</p>
<p>Release date</p>
<p>Qi charging case</p>
<p>That interesting/funny uv case feature</p>
<p>(And if you want, you could maybe note own experiences if some models should be ignored anyways.)</p>
| LG TONE earbuds - what‘s the difference? |
<blockquote>
<ol>
<li>Would any of these work for me?</li>
</ol>
</blockquote>
<p>The CRS317-1G-16S+RM and TL-SX3016F definitely will, and they both have good support.</p>
<blockquote>
<ol start="2">
<li>Which one of the above you would recommend? And why?</li>
</ol>
</blockquote>
<p>I use the CRS317-1G-16S+RM with a number of 10G SFP+'s. I'm very happy. Well other than Mikrotik's command line interface is so much more difficult to understand than Cisco's. I've never tried the TP-Link cli.</p>
<p>I'd go Mikrotik over TP-Link due to cost.</p>
<blockquote>
<ol start="3">
<li>Which one has the ability to transfer as much data as possible, but
also being configurable from Linux?</li>
</ol>
</blockquote>
<p>The Mikrotik wins by a hair on data, but those values are best case scenario. You wouldn't know which is best in your environment unless you tried both. Even then, you likely couldn't notice without precise measurement.</p>
<pre><code>Mikrotik 239.5833 Mpps
TP-LINK 238.08 Mpps
</code></pre>
<p>Linux is simple, both support ssh connections to management.</p>
| 16162 | 2022-07-24T11:10:38.367 | |linux|switch|cluster-computing| | <p>I would like to build a linux computing cluster (multiple identical PCs connected via high speed networking so that they behave, for scientific calculations, like a single big "PC", with almost the entire computing power of the combined PCs, summed up). I would like to go from the start with SFP+ but I have no idea what specs should such switch meet and if any of those bellow are ok for this task:</p>
<ol>
<li>Switch Mikrotik CRS317-1G-16S+RM, 16 x 10G SFP+</li>
<li>Switch Quanta LB6M 24x10Gbps</li>
<li>Switch TP-Link TL-SX3016F, 320 Gbps, 16 x SFP+</li>
</ol>
<p>Now, I know there are better alternatives, but buying from ebay/amazon is not the route, for the moment (I have no idea how much the international/custom taxes will be and the postal service, from my country, has the bad habit of loosing packages).</p>
<ol>
<li>Would any of these work for me?</li>
<li>Which one of the above you would recommend? And why?</li>
<li>Which one has the ability to transfer as much data as possible, but also being configurable from Linux?</li>
</ol>
<p>TA<br>
R</p>
| sfp+ switch for linux cluster |
<p>Charging is quite simple. It depends on the maximum <strong>current</strong> in Amperes(Amps) that the cable can carry. The maximum Amps that any USB charge cable needs to carry is 5 Amps (5A). As long as it can carry truly carry this much current without overheating, and the wires are wired correctly on to the connectors you should be fine in any use scenario. The voltages don't matter and the wattages don't matter with regards to the charging cable. The only other thing to note with regards to unprotected cables without the emarker chips, resistors etc. are that as long as you are using the correct charger (for that particular device - does not have to be the original one, just one that is <strong>truly</strong> compatible with it-even third-party ones) it should work out fine.</p>
| 16164 | 2022-07-25T15:11:47.553 | |usb|power-supply|usb-c|cable| | <p>I am struggling to understand USB type-C specifications in terms of power supply,</p>
<p>took me a lot to figure out about USB data bandwidth but now that type-C is used to charge</p>
<p>mobiles need to learn more.</p>
<p>Question seems simple to me, hope so. I need a fast charging USB adapter and looking</p>
<p>online I found out one that says super-speed and has a detachable USB type-A male to type-C male cable, nobody lists the tech specs clearly, but as far as I undestand a type-C to type-C cable could carry a lot of power, while a
cable type-A male to type-c male could do less. So what is the max Volt/current/Wattage of USB cable type-A male to type-C male ?</p>
<p>This is a picture of what I call a USB cable type-A male to type-C male, just to be sure I am getting it right.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePoE8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePoE8.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I am editing the post because of the first answer and what it states:</p>
<p>so why I am getting this kind of specs for the usb charger with female type A plug ? reads 5V 9V or 12V :</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPIpo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPIpo.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| What is the max USB cable type-A male to type-c male Volt/current/Wattage possible? |
<p>Definitely go with the 12GB variety, always err on the side of more VRAM rather than less. I was looking up Forza Horizon5 VRAM allocation, at 1080p extreme settings it uses almost 8GB as per KitGuru</p>
| 16177 | 2022-08-03T07:28:18.307 | |graphics-cards|gaming|video-editing|nvidia| | <p>As you know RTX 2060 was relaunched with 12GB VRAM and other changes like more cuda cores but less bandwidth.</p>
<p>I checked performance of both on various benchmarking websites and they are more or less same for 1080p gaming. I'm interested in buying the 12GB version for following two personal conclusions:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>12GB is obviously a lot more than 6GB. Even if this card is basically similar as old one in terms of other specifications, it's still better than 6GB memory, by some percentage. For example, it might not be powerful enough for 12GB, but maybe its performance won't degrade upto 7GB or even 8GB.</p>
</li>
<li><p>It might perform better in non gaming tasks like video editing and basic 3D modelling, irrespective of similar specifications apart from VRAM.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<hr />
<p>Now the other thing is, when it was relaunched, it was criticized by almost everyone. Mainly for its price. <em>And many people say it isn't even powerful enough for 12GB so it's a scam</em>. I'm not sure how true is it especially the "powerful enough" thing.</p>
<p>I really don't think pricing is factor now because the pricing has become much better today, the only concern remains about the performance. Not sure if I am going to see any benefit of 12GB at present or near future.</p>
<p>I can't afford a display greater than 1080p in near future. And I have no plans either. <strong>But I think that maybe in next 2-3 years games might need a little more than 6GB for 1080p gaming.</strong> So I'm not sure if I should invest in 12GB or 6GB. The price different isn't that big.</p>
<p>Like I said, right now their performance benchmarks are more or less same. But if this 12GB makes the card a little more better as compared to 6GB variant in near future, <em>especially in gaming</em>, I would prefer the 12GB one.</p>
<p><strong>So which one do you recommend?</strong></p>
| RTX 2060 6GB vs RTX 2060 12GB in near future |
<p>I went for Processor and Mobo combo which isn't 100% upgrade friendly but allows me to save about $200 and I am not planning to keep upgrading this build to newest and latest. I also picked open box power supply in favor of better quality and keeping my final price low. Video card is not the top off line but, it has just enough cores for my light video editing.</p>
<p>Pros:</p>
<ul>
<li>Low price point</li>
<li>Modest build</li>
</ul>
<p>Cons:</p>
<ul>
<li>A little slower video card</li>
<li>Would have to change mother board and also RAM upgrading to 12th gen or newer CPU</li>
</ul>
<p>Specs:</p>
<pre><code>CPU: Intel Core i7-11700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Prime Z590-P WiFi ATX LGA1200 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory
Storage: Samsung 980 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB Phoenix Video Card
Power Supply: PowerSpec PS 750BSM 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
Total: $889.80
</code></pre>
| 16190 | 2022-08-08T07:47:28.353 | |motherboard| | <p>I am upgrading a 2005 built computer running Windows XP (I know!).</p>
<p>I can not determine two things:</p>
<ol>
<li>The exact make model and form factor of the motherboard. It seems to be nForce motherboard with 939 socket from what I could gather. How can I find out more about the motherboard?</li>
<li>Which processor, RAM and Motherboard should I upgrade this computer to?</li>
</ol>
<pre><code>System: Host: linux Kernel: 5.4.53 x86_64 bits: 64 compiler: gcc v: 9.3.0 Desktop: JWM 2.4.0 dm: xinit
Machine: Type: Desktop Mobo: N/A model: nForce serial: N/A BIOS: Phoenix v: 6.00 PG date: 09/13/2003
CPU: Topology: Single Core model: AMD Athlon 64 3200+ bits: 64 type: UP arch: K8 rev: 8 L1 cache: 128 KiB
L2 cache: 1024 KiB
flags: lm nx pae sse sse2 bogomips: 3989
Speed: 2000 MHz min/max: 800/2000 MHz Core speed (MHz): 1: 2000
Graphics: Device-1: NVIDIA NV43 [GeForce 6600 GT] vendor: eVga.com. driver: nouveau v: kernel bus ID: 02:00.0
chip ID: 10de:00f1
Display: server: X.Org 1.20.8 driver: nouveau compositor: picom resolution: 1920x1080~60Hz
OpenGL: renderer: NV43 v: 2.1 Mesa 20.0.8 direct render: Yes
Audio: Device-1: NVIDIA nForce3 Audio vendor: Biostar Microtech Intl Corp driver: snd_intel8x0 v: kernel bus ID: 00:06.0
chip ID: 10de:00da
Device-2: Creative Labs EMU10k2/CA0100/CA0102/CA10200 [Sound Blaster Audigy Series] driver: snd_emu10k1 v: kernel
bus ID: 01:08.0 chip ID: 1102:0004
Sound Server: ALSA v: k5.4.53
Network: Device-1: Realtek RTL8169 PCI Gigabit Ethernet vendor: Biostar Microtech Intl Corp driver: r8169 v: kernel
port: c800 bus ID: 01:0d.0 chip ID: 10ec:8169
IF: eth0 state: up speed: 1000 Mbps duplex: full mac: 00:e0:4c:b8:5b:fd
Drives: Local Storage: total: 373.93 GiB used: 571.5 MiB (0.1%)
ID-1: /dev/sda vendor: Western Digital model: WD2500JB-00REA0 size: 232.89 GiB speed: <unknown>
serial: WD-WMANK5912436 rev: 0K20 scheme: MBR
ID-2: /dev/sdb vendor: Seagate model: ST3120022A size: 111.79 GiB speed: <unknown> serial: 5JT113FM rev: 3.06
ID-3: /dev/sdc type: USB vendor: SanDisk model: Cruzer Blade size: 29.25 GiB serial: 4C531001570928117361 rev: 1.00
scheme: MBR
RAID: Hardware-1: VIA VIA VT6420 SATA RAID Controller driver: sata_via v: 2.6 port: b000 bus ID: 01:0c.0
chip ID: 1106.3149 rev: 50
Sensors: System Temperatures: cpu: 60.0 C mobo: N/A
Fan Speeds (RPM): N/A
Info: Processes: 109 Uptime: 35m Memory: 985.2 MiB used: 270.9 MiB (27.5%) Init: SysVinit v: N/A runlevel: 35 Compilers:
gcc: 9.3.0 alt: 9 Shell: bash v: 5.0.17 running in: urxvt inxi: 3.0.38
</code></pre>
<pre><code>lshw
description: Desktop Computer
width: 64 bits
capabilities: smbios-2.3 dmi-2.3 vsyscall32
configuration: boot=normal chassis=desktop
*-core
description: Motherboard
product: nForce
physical id: 0
*-firmware
description: BIOS
vendor: Phoenix Technologies, LTD
physical id: 0
version: 6.00 PG
date: 09/13/2003
size: 128KiB
capacity: 512KiB
capabilities: isa pci pnp apm upgrade shadowing cdboot bootselect socketedrom edd int13floppy360 int13floppy1200 int13floppy720 int13floppy2880 int5printscreen int9keyboard int14serial int17printer int10video acpi usb agp ls120boot zipboot
*-cpu
description: CPU
product: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3200+
vendor: Advanced Micro Devices [AMD]
physical id: 4
bus info: cpu@0
version: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3200+
slot: Socket A
size: 2GHz
capacity: 2GHz
width: 64 bits
clock: 201MHz
capabilities: fpu fpu_exception wp vme de pse tsc msr pae mce cx8 apic sep mtrr pge mca cmov pat pse36 clflush mmx fxsr sse sse2 syscall nx mmxext x86-64 3dnowext 3dnow rep_good nopl cpuid 3dnowprefetch vmmcall cpufreq
*-cache:0
description: L1 cache
physical id: 8
slot: Internal Cache
size: 128KiB
capacity: 128KiB
capabilities: synchronous internal write-back
configuration: level=1
*-cache:1
description: L2 cache
physical id: 9
slot: External Cache
size: 1MiB
capacity: 1MiB
capabilities: synchronous internal write-back
configuration: level=2
*-memory
description: System Memory
physical id: 1a
slot: System board or motherboard
size: 2GiB
*-bank:0
description: DIMM
product: None
vendor: None
physical id: 0
serial: None
slot: A0
size: 1GiB
*-bank:1
description: DIMM
product: None
vendor: None
physical id: 1
serial: None
slot: A1
size: 1GiB
*-pci:0
description: Host bridge
product: nForce3 Host Bridge
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 100
bus info: pci@0000:00:00.0
version: a4
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
configuration: driver=agpgart-amd64
resources: irq:0 memory:e0000000-e7ffffff
*-isa
description: ISA bridge
product: nForce3 LPC Bridge
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 1
bus info: pci@0000:00:01.0
version: a6
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: isa bus_master
configuration: latency=0
*-serial
description: SMBus
product: nForce3 SMBus
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 1.1
bus info: pci@0000:00:01.1
version: a4
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pm cap_list
configuration: driver=nForce2_smbus latency=0 maxlatency=1 mingnt=3
resources: irq:5 ioport:4c00(size=64) ioport:4c40(size=64)
*-usb:0
description: USB controller
product: nForce3 USB 1.1
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 2
bus info: pci@0000:00:02.0
version: a5
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pm ohci bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=ohci-pci latency=0 maxlatency=1 mingnt=3
resources: irq:22 memory:ed003000-ed003fff
*-usb:1
description: USB controller
product: nForce3 USB 1.1
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 2.1
bus info: pci@0000:00:02.1
version: a5
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pm ohci bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=ohci-pci latency=0 maxlatency=1 mingnt=3
resources: irq:21 memory:ed004000-ed004fff
*-usb:2
description: USB controller
product: nForce3 USB 2.0
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 2.2
bus info: pci@0000:00:02.2
version: a2
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: debug pm ehci bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=ehci-pci latency=0 maxlatency=1 mingnt=3
resources: irq:20 memory:ed005000-ed0050ff
*-multimedia
description: Multimedia audio controller
product: nForce3 Audio
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 6
bus info: pci@0000:00:06.0
version: a2
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pm bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=snd_intel8x0 latency=0 maxlatency=5 mingnt=2
resources: irq:22 ioport:d800(size=256) ioport:dc00(size=128) memory:ed001000-ed001fff
*-ide
description: IDE interface
product: nForce3 IDE
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 8
bus info: pci@0000:00:08.0
version: a5
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: ide pm isa_compat_mode pci_native_mode bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=pata_amd latency=0 maxlatency=1 mingnt=3
resources: irq:0 ioport:1f0(size=8) ioport:3f6 ioport:170(size=8) ioport:376 ioport:f000(size=16)
*-pci:0
description: PCI bridge
product: nForce3 PCI Bridge
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: a
bus info: pci@0000:00:0a.0
version: a2
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pci normal_decode bus_master
resources: ioport:9000(size=16384) memory:eb000000-ecffffff memory:40000000-400fffff
*-multimedia
description: Multimedia audio controller
product: EMU10k2/CA0100/CA0102/CA10200 [Sound Blaster Audigy Series]
vendor: Creative Labs
physical id: 8
bus info: pci@0000:01:08.0
version: 03
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
capabilities: pm bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=snd_emu10k1 latency=32 maxlatency=20 mingnt=2
resources: irq:16 ioport:9000(size=32)
*-input
description: Input device controller
product: SB Audigy Game Port
vendor: Creative Labs
physical id: 8.1
bus info: pci@0000:01:08.1
version: 03
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
capabilities: pm bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=Emu10k1_gameport latency=32
resources: irq:0 ioport:9400(size=8)
*-firewire:0
description: FireWire (IEEE 1394)
product: SB Audigy FireWire Port
vendor: Creative Labs
physical id: 8.2
bus info: pci@0000:01:08.2
version: 00
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
capabilities: pm ohci bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=firewire_ohci latency=32 maxlatency=4 mingnt=2
resources: irq:17 memory:ec005000-ec0057ff memory:ec000000-ec003fff
*-firewire:1
description: FireWire (IEEE 1394)
product: VT6306/7/8 [Fire II(M)] IEEE 1394 OHCI Controller
vendor: VIA Technologies, Inc.
physical id: b
bus info: pci@0000:01:0b.0
version: 80
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
capabilities: pm ohci bus_master cap_list
configuration: driver=firewire_ohci latency=32 maxlatency=32
resources: irq:19 memory:ec004000-ec0047ff ioport:9800(size=128)
*-raid
description: RAID bus controller
product: VIA VT6420 SATA RAID Controller
vendor: VIA Technologies, Inc.
physical id: c
bus info: pci@0000:01:0c.0
version: 50
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
capabilities: raid pm bus_master cap_list rom
configuration: driver=sata_via latency=32
resources: irq:16 ioport:9c00(size=8) ioport:a000(size=4) ioport:a400(size=8) ioport:a800(size=4) ioport:ac00(size=16) ioport:b000(size=256) memory:40000000-4000ffff
*-network
description: Ethernet interface
product: RTL8169 PCI Gigabit Ethernet Controller
vendor: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd.
physical id: d
bus info: pci@0000:01:0d.0
logical name: eth0
version: 10
serial: 00:e0:4c:b8:5b:fd
size: 1Gbit/s
capacity: 1Gbit/s
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pm bus_master cap_list rom ethernet physical tp mii 10bt 10bt-fd 100bt 100bt-fd 1000bt 1000bt-fd autonegotiation
configuration: autonegotiation=on broadcast=yes driver=r8169 duplex=full ip=47.18.1.25 latency=64 link=yes maxlatency=64 mingnt=32 multicast=yes port=MII speed=1Gbit/s
resources: irq:17 ioport:c800(size=256) memory:ec006000-ec0060ff memory:40010000-4001ffff
*-pci:1
description: PCI bridge
product: nForce3 AGP Bridge
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: b
bus info: pci@0000:00:0b.0
version: a4
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pci normal_decode bus_master
resources: memory:e8000000-eaffffff memory:d0000000-dfffffff
*-display
description: VGA compatible controller
product: NV43 [GeForce 6600 GT]
vendor: NVIDIA Corporation
physical id: 0
bus info: pci@0000:02:00.0
version: a2
width: 32 bits
clock: 66MHz
capabilities: pm agp agp-3.0 vga_controller bus_master cap_list rom
configuration: driver=nouveau latency=32 maxlatency=1 mingnt=5
resources: irq:16 memory:e8000000-e8ffffff memory:d0000000-dfffffff memory:e9000000-e9ffffff memory:c0000-dffff
*-pci:1
description: Host bridge
product: K8 [Athlon64/Opteron] HyperTransport Technology Configuration
vendor: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD]
physical id: 101
bus info: pci@0000:00:18.0
version: 00
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
*-pci:2
description: Host bridge
product: K8 [Athlon64/Opteron] Address Map
vendor: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD]
physical id: 102
bus info: pci@0000:00:18.1
version: 00
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
*-pci:3
description: Host bridge
product: K8 [Athlon64/Opteron] DRAM Controller
vendor: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD]
physical id: 103
bus info: pci@0000:00:18.2
version: 00
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
*-pci:4
description: Host bridge
product: K8 [Athlon64/Opteron] Miscellaneous Control
vendor: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD]
physical id: 104
bus info: pci@0000:00:18.3
version: 00
width: 32 bits
clock: 33MHz
configuration: driver=k8temp
resources: irq:0
*-pnp00:00
product: PnP device PNP0c02
physical id: 1
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=system
*-pnp00:01
product: PnP device PNP0c01
physical id: 2
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=system
*-pnp00:02
product: PnP device PNP0c02
physical id: 3
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=system
*-pnp00:03
product: PnP device PNP0b00
physical id: 5
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=rtc_cmos
*-pnp00:04
product: PnP device PNP0700
physical id: 6
capabilities: pnp
*-pnp00:05
product: PnP device PNP0501
physical id: 7
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=serial
*-pnp00:06
product: PnP device PNP0501
physical id: 8
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=serial
*-pnp00:07
product: PnP device PNP0400
physical id: 9
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=parport_pc
*-pnp00:08
product: PnP device PNPb006
physical id: a
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=mpu401
*-pnp00:09
product: PnP device PNPb02f
physical id: b
capabilities: pnp
configuration: driver=ns558
*-scsi
physical id: 1
bus info: scsi@4
logical name: scsi4
capabilities: scsi-host
configuration: driver=usb-storage
</code></pre>
<pre><code># dmidecode 3.2
Getting SMBIOS data from sysfs.
SMBIOS 2.3 present.
34 structures occupying 938 bytes.
Table at 0x000F0000.
Handle 0x0000, DMI type 0, 20 bytes
BIOS Information
Vendor: Phoenix Technologies, LTD
Version: 6.00 PG
Release Date: 09/13/2003
Address: 0xE0000
Runtime Size: 128 kB
ROM Size: 512 kB
Characteristics:
ISA is supported
PCI is supported
PNP is supported
APM is supported
BIOS is upgradeable
BIOS shadowing is allowed
Boot from CD is supported
Selectable boot is supported
BIOS ROM is socketed
EDD is supported
5.25"/360 kB floppy services are supported (int 13h)
5.25"/1.2 MB floppy services are supported (int 13h)
3.5"/720 kB floppy services are supported (int 13h)
3.5"/2.88 MB floppy services are supported (int 13h)
Print screen service is supported (int 5h)
8042 keyboard services are supported (int 9h)
Serial services are supported (int 14h)
Printer services are supported (int 17h)
CGA/mono video services are supported (int 10h)
ACPI is supported
USB legacy is supported
AGP is supported
LS-120 boot is supported
ATAPI Zip drive boot is supported
Handle 0x0001, DMI type 1, 25 bytes
System Information
Manufacturer:
Product Name:
Version:
Serial Number:
UUID: Not Present
Wake-up Type: Power Switch
Handle 0x0002, DMI type 2, 8 bytes
Base Board Information
Manufacturer:
Product Name: nForce
Version:
Serial Number:
Handle 0x0003, DMI type 3, 17 bytes
Chassis Information
Manufacturer:
Type: Desktop
Lock: Not Present
Version:
Serial Number:
Asset Tag:
Boot-up State: Unknown
Power Supply State: Unknown
Thermal State: Unknown
Security Status: Unknown
OEM Information: 0x00000000
Handle 0x0004, DMI type 4, 35 bytes
Processor Information
Socket Designation: Socket A
Type: Central Processor
Family: Duron
Manufacturer: AMD
ID: 48 0F 00 00 FF FB 8B 07
Signature: Family 15, Model 4, Stepping 8
Flags:
FPU (Floating-point unit on-chip)
VME (Virtual mode extension)
DE (Debugging extension)
PSE (Page size extension)
TSC (Time stamp counter)
MSR (Model specific registers)
PAE (Physical address extension)
MCE (Machine check exception)
CX8 (CMPXCHG8 instruction supported)
APIC (On-chip APIC hardware supported)
SEP (Fast system call)
MTRR (Memory type range registers)
PGE (Page global enable)
MCA (Machine check architecture)
CMOV (Conditional move instruction supported)
PAT (Page attribute table)
PSE-36 (36-bit page size extension)
CLFSH (CLFLUSH instruction supported)
MMX (MMX technology supported)
FXSR (FXSAVE and FXSTOR instructions supported)
SSE (Streaming SIMD extensions)
SSE2 (Streaming SIMD extensions 2)
Version: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3200+
Voltage: 1.4 V
External Clock: 201 MHz
Max Speed: 500 MHz
Current Speed: 2010 MHz
Status: Populated, Enabled
Upgrade: ZIF Socket
L1 Cache Handle: 0x0008
L2 Cache Handle: 0x0009
L3 Cache Handle: Not Provided
Serial Number:
Asset Tag:
Part Number:
Handle 0x0005, DMI type 5, 20 bytes
Memory Controller Information
Error Detecting Method: 8-bit Parity
Error Correcting Capabilities:
None
Supported Interleave: One-way Interleave
Current Interleave: One-way Interleave
Maximum Memory Module Size: 32 MB
Maximum Total Memory Size: 64 MB
Supported Speeds:
70 ns
60 ns
Supported Memory Types:
Standard
EDO
Memory Module Voltage: 5.0 V
Associated Memory Slots: 2
0x0006
0x0007
Enabled Error Correcting Capabilities: None
Handle 0x0006, DMI type 6, 12 bytes
Memory Module Information
Socket Designation: A0
Bank Connections: 0 1
Current Speed: 10 ns
Type: Other
Installed Size: 512 MB (Double-bank Connection)
Enabled Size: 512 MB (Double-bank Connection)
Error Status: OK
Handle 0x0007, DMI type 6, 12 bytes
Memory Module Information
Socket Designation: A1
Bank Connections: 2 3
Current Speed: 10 ns
Type: Other
Installed Size: 512 MB (Double-bank Connection)
Enabled Size: 512 MB (Double-bank Connection)
Error Status: OK
Handle 0x0008, DMI type 7, 19 bytes
Cache Information
Socket Designation: Internal Cache
Configuration: Enabled, Not Socketed, Level 1
Operational Mode: Write Back
Location: Internal
Installed Size: 128 kB
Maximum Size: 128 kB
Supported SRAM Types:
Synchronous
Installed SRAM Type: Synchronous
Speed: Unknown
Error Correction Type: Unknown
System Type: Unknown
Associativity: Unknown
Handle 0x0009, DMI type 7, 19 bytes
Cache Information
Socket Designation: External Cache
Configuration: Enabled, Not Socketed, Level 2
Operational Mode: Write Back
Location: Internal
Installed Size: 1024 kB
Maximum Size: 1024 kB
Supported SRAM Types:
Synchronous
Installed SRAM Type: Synchronous
Speed: Unknown
Error Correction Type: Unknown
System Type: Unknown
Associativity: Unknown
Handle 0x000A, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: PRIMARY IDE
Internal Connector Type: On Board IDE
External Reference Designator: Not Specified
External Connector Type: None
Port Type: Other
Handle 0x000B, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: SECONDARY IDE
Internal Connector Type: On Board IDE
External Reference Designator: Not Specified
External Connector Type: None
Port Type: Other
Handle 0x000C, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: FDD
Internal Connector Type: On Board Floppy
External Reference Designator: Not Specified
External Connector Type: None
Port Type: 8251 FIFO Compatible
Handle 0x000D, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: COM1
Internal Connector Type: 9 Pin Dual Inline (pin 10 cut)
External Reference Designator:
External Connector Type: DB-9 male
Port Type: Serial Port 16450 Compatible
Handle 0x000E, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: COM2
Internal Connector Type: 9 Pin Dual Inline (pin 10 cut)
External Reference Designator:
External Connector Type: DB-9 male
Port Type: Serial Port 16450 Compatible
Handle 0x000F, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: LPT1
Internal Connector Type: DB-25 female
External Reference Designator:
External Connector Type: DB-25 female
Port Type: Parallel Port ECP/EPP
Handle 0x0010, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: Keyboard
Internal Connector Type: PS/2
External Reference Designator:
External Connector Type: PS/2
Port Type: Keyboard Port
Handle 0x0011, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: PS/2 Mouse
Internal Connector Type: PS/2
External Reference Designator:
External Connector Type: PS/2
Port Type: Mouse Port
Handle 0x0012, DMI type 8, 9 bytes
Port Connector Information
Internal Reference Designator: Not Specified
Internal Connector Type: None
External Reference Designator: USB0
External Connector Type: Other
Port Type: USB
Handle 0x0013, DMI type 9, 13 bytes
System Slot Information
Designation: PCI0
Type: 32-bit PCI
Current Usage: Available
Length: Long
ID: 1
Characteristics:
5.0 V is provided
PME signal is supported
Handle 0x0014, DMI type 9, 13 bytes
System Slot Information
Designation: PCI1
Type: 32-bit PCI
Current Usage: Available
Length: Long
ID: 2
Characteristics:
5.0 V is provided
PME signal is supported
Handle 0x0015, DMI type 9, 13 bytes
System Slot Information
Designation: PCI2
Type: 32-bit PCI
Current Usage: In Use
Length: Long
ID: 3
Characteristics:
5.0 V is provided
PME signal is supported
Handle 0x0016, DMI type 9, 13 bytes
System Slot Information
Designation: PCI3
Type: 32-bit PCI
Current Usage: Available
Length: Long
ID: 4
Characteristics:
5.0 V is provided
PME signal is supported
Handle 0x0017, DMI type 9, 13 bytes
System Slot Information
Designation: PCI4
Type: 32-bit PCI
Current Usage: Available
Length: Long
ID: 5
Characteristics:
5.0 V is provided
PME signal is supported
Handle 0x0018, DMI type 9, 13 bytes
System Slot Information
Designation: AGP
Type: 32-bit AGP
Current Usage: In Use
Length: Long
ID: 88
Characteristics:
5.0 V is provided
Handle 0x0019, DMI type 13, 22 bytes
BIOS Language Information
Language Description Format: Long
Installable Languages: 3
n|US|iso8859-1
n|US|iso8859-1
r|CA|iso8859-1
Currently Installed Language: n|US|iso8859-1
Handle 0x001A, DMI type 16, 15 bytes
Physical Memory Array
Location: System Board Or Motherboard
Use: System Memory
Error Correction Type: None
Maximum Capacity: 1 GB
Error Information Handle: Not Provided
Number Of Devices: 2
Handle 0x001B, DMI type 17, 27 bytes
Memory Device
Array Handle: 0x001A
Error Information Handle: Not Provided
Total Width: Unknown
Data Width: Unknown
Size: 1024 MB
Form Factor: DIMM
Set: None
Locator: A0
Bank Locator: Bank0/1
Type: Unknown
Type Detail: None
Speed: Unknown
Manufacturer: None
Serial Number: None
Asset Tag: None
Part Number: None
Handle 0x001C, DMI type 17, 27 bytes
Memory Device
Array Handle: 0x001A
Error Information Handle: Not Provided
Total Width: Unknown
Data Width: Unknown
Size: 1024 MB
Form Factor: DIMM
Set: None
Locator: A1
Bank Locator: Bank2/3
Type: Unknown
Type Detail: None
Speed: Unknown
Manufacturer: None
Serial Number: None
Asset Tag: None
Part Number: None
Handle 0x001D, DMI type 19, 15 bytes
Memory Array Mapped Address
Starting Address: 0x00000000000
Ending Address: 0x0007FFFFFFF
Range Size: 2 GB
Physical Array Handle: 0x001A
Partition Width: 1
Handle 0x001E, DMI type 20, 19 bytes
Memory Device Mapped Address
Starting Address: 0x00000000000
Ending Address: 0x0003FFFFFFF
Range Size: 1 GB
Physical Device Handle: 0x001B
Memory Array Mapped Address Handle: 0x001D
Partition Row Position: 1
Handle 0x001F, DMI type 20, 19 bytes
Memory Device Mapped Address
Starting Address: 0x00040000000
Ending Address: 0x0007FFFFFFF
Range Size: 1 GB
Physical Device Handle: 0x001C
Memory Array Mapped Address Handle: 0x001D
Partition Row Position: 1
Handle 0x0020, DMI type 32, 11 bytes
System Boot Information
Status: No errors detected
Handle 0x0021, DMI type 127, 4 bytes
End Of Table
</code></pre>
<p>Idea # 1</p>
<pre><code>CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($278.95 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: *Noctua NH-L9i-17xx chromax.black 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler ($54.95 @ Amazon)
OR Noctua NH-L9x65 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler @ $59.85
OR Noctua NH-L9x65
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z690 CARBON WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory ($56.37 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory ($56.37 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 980 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 G6 4 GB D6 VENTUS XS OC Video Card
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 32/64-bit ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1251.60
</code></pre>
<p>Idea 2:</p>
<pre><code>CPU: Intel Core i3-12100F 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($121.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S redux 70.75 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B660 Pro RS ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($127.98 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($56.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 980 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 G6 4 GB D6 VENTUS XS OC Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 32/64-bit ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $860.88
</code></pre>
<p>Open for more ideas!</p>
| Old PC Upgrade Recommendations |
<p>Crucial MX500 500GB</p>
<p>This is about the best SATA SSD series that I know of, they are not very expensive and are availible from 1/4 TB to 4TB. With your budget, 500GB is probably the best option.</p>
<p>I'm getting a little off-topic here, but if you want to transfer your files, I reccommend booting from an Ubuntu live ISO (on a USB stick or DVD) and using dd to transfer your files, and Disks to resize the partition so your OS (Linux, Hackintosh or Windows) sees the extra free space. (and for the diamond mods, I include this so there is not an off-topic question about transferring your OS that I have to close)</p>
<p>About the durability, the larger the SSD, generally it can also be used longer, because you can write more to it since you have more NAND cells you can write to. Although each NAND cell can only be written to about 360 times, with a larger SSD you have more of them so they wear down less quickly (or you write more to your SSD, but don't do that too much)</p>
| 16194 | 2022-08-09T10:26:06.330 | |hard-disk|ssd| | <p>I need to upgrade Asus X455LDB disk, what would you suggest, considering following requirements for the SSD</p>
<ul>
<li>at least 200GB</li>
<li>around 70$</li>
<li>my laptop only support SATA connection</li>
</ul>
<p>by the way,Is there any difference in life time or performance in 256GB and 512GB?</p>
| SSD upgrade of Asus X455LDB |
<p>Yes it is suitable as a second monitor. Not as primary monitor though since the resolution is too low.</p>
| 16222 | 2022-08-22T11:23:07.237 | |multiple-monitors| | <p>Is this monitor Dell p1913 suitable for coding as the second monitor?</p>
<p>It has 1440x900 high resolution.</p>
<p>I already have an Acer monitor 27",</p>
<p>I was looking for the second monitor for practising coding in Python for online courses on statistics?</p>
<p>Could anyone give me an advice? Thanks.</p>
| Is this monitor Dell p1913 suitable for coding as the second monitor? |
<p><a href="https://rockpi.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RockPi</a> are widely in stock, better performing single board computers. They do generally support most RPi Hats, with exceptions suck as PoE Hats.</p>
<p>They do cost more than RPi 4, but have generally better and faster hardware.</p>
<p>The RockPi has an RK3399 SoC arm64 CPU, roughly 50% faster to twice as fast as RPi4/3 and is binary compatible for applications. RockPi will not run Rasperberry Pi OS, but <a href="https://wiki.radxa.com/Rock4/downloads" rel="nofollow noreferrer">have many more options</a>.</p>
| 16223 | 2022-08-22T11:50:50.980 | |raspberry-pi|sbc| | <p>Because Raspberry Pi's are hard to get nowadays, I'm looking for an alternative single board computer.</p>
<p>I've seen several sites that list all kinds of alternatives, but those websites don't talk about the thing that is most important for me: software compatibility.</p>
<p>Ideally, I want to be able to pull an SD card out of a Raspberry Pi, put it in the alternative SBC and turn it on. But maybe that's too much to ask. It would already be very nice if I can add a few drivers to my Raspberry Pi OS installation and then be able move the SD card between the Raspberry Pi and the other SBC back and forth.</p>
<p>What single board computer is the most compatible with Raspberry Pi?</p>
| Software compatible alternative to Raspberry Pi |
<p>I ended up buying a used Google Pixel 2 for like 100€ from a refurbish online shop.</p>
<p>What I didn't come up with when I created the post was to check geekbench mobile benchmarks.
I was trying to find a cheap android phone that is close as fast as the Iphone 6s.
But to my suprise, "good" android phones are pretty expensive!
Old used Iphones are much cheaper and more available!</p>
<p>I also didn't want a super cheap fucked up phone from like walmart or so.
I wanted something that I can rely on, that will work properly and has a proper screen with kinda accurate colours.</p>
| 16242 | 2022-08-29T13:23:16.877 | |android|smartphones|development|web-development| | <p>I'm looking for an android phone for react native development. I recently bought a iphone 6s for like 20€ and I'm pretty impressed by it's speed considering its so old.</p>
<p>Can you guys recommend any android phones, that are kinda the same fast or faster but don't cost much?</p>
<p>I was thinking about a google pixel 1 or so for maybe 50€ if I can find one, but maybe there is something better and cheaper?</p>
<p>Unfortunately the android emulator is just too damn slow and buggy on my 10 years old mac laptop..</p>
| Cheap old android phones like iphone 6s for React Native development |
<p>Its a bit of a "frame challenge" but if you want longevity over power efficiency, don't buy a consumer router. Get an X86 box with at least two ports - I think the N5150s are the current darling and give you multigig ports, but <a href="https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/a/9883/531">I've been running this since 2018</a> on a customised ubuntu linux build with multiple ethernet ports.</p>
<p>Since its a generic machine, you basically get updates forever (or as long as the project you're using for the router backend is supported). They don't do wifi as well as as a dedicated AP or router but that's heavily on the hardware end.</p>
<p>There's <em>many</em> router centric distros you can use - <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vyatta" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Vyatta</a>, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PfSense" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pfsense</a> come to mind - but quite <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_router_and_firewall_distributions" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a few support x86 based boxen</a>. I split off my APs for various reasons, and honestly, I've not found a wifi AP I'm delighted with but for a router, I like this option.</p>
| 16246 | 2022-08-29T17:07:50.607 | |networking|router|security| | <p>The concern of my question is about router security via updates.</p>
<p>I used to have various Modem/Routers (eg. Belkin, TpLink, etc.) over the years to connect to my ISPs. All followed the same pattern: Manufacturer supported them well at the beginning, the devices were receiving regular updates, then some years later they were reaching end-of-life and there were no more updates.</p>
<p>Also, I want to change the way things are connected at home.<br />
Instead of having every device connected directly to the Modem/Router, I want to have everything connected to a Router (<strong>To-be-purchased</strong>), and then have that Router bridged to the Modem provided by the ISP.</p>
<p>So the question is:<br />
Could you please suggest any Router devices which receive regular long-term updates for many years? The longer the better.</p>
<p>(FYI I have looked into Mikrotik, OpenWrt but I don't know for how long they provide updates. Also, I wouldn't mind purchasing a business-oriented device if it suits my needs)</p>
| Looking for Routers with long-term updates |
<p>from your HP link :</p>
<ul>
<li>Install DIMMs only if the corresponding processor is installed.</li>
<li>To maximize performance, it is recommended to balance the total memory capacity between all installed processors and load the channels similarly whenever possible.</li>
<li>White DIMM slots denote the first slot to be populated in a channel.</li>
<li>Place the DIMMs with the highest number of ranks in the white slot when mixing DIMMs of different ranks on the same channel.</li>
<li><strong>Do not mix RDIMMs or LRDIMMs.</strong></li>
<li><strong>Quad rank RDIMMs are not supported</strong> in HPE ProLiant ML110 Gen9 servers.</li>
<li>Quad rank LRDIMMs are capable of up to three DIMMs per channel.</li>
<li>RDIMMs operating at 1.2 V.</li>
<li><strong>DIMMs of different speeds may be mixed in any order; the server will select a common optimal speed.</strong></li>
<li><strong>The maximum memory speed is a function of the memory type, memory configuration, and processor model.</strong></li>
<li>The maximum memory capacity is a function of the memory type and number of installed processors.</li>
<li>To realize the performance memory capabilities listed in this document, HPE SmartMemory is required.</li>
<li>There are four (4) channels per processor There are two (2) DIMM slots for each memory channel; eight (8) total slots. Memory channels1 and 3 consists of the two (2) DIMMs that are furthest from the processor. Memory channel 2 and 4 consists of the two (2) DIMMs that are closest to the processor.</li>
</ul>
<blockquote>
<p>What I want to know is that if I can upgrade the RAM of this server to: <code>16GB (1x16) DDR4 ECC RDIMM 2R (1866 or 2133 or 2400 or 3200 Mhz)</code></p>
</blockquote>
<p>yes, but using only one RDIMM (you say 1x16) you will not be <em>maximizing performance</em></p>
| 16254 | 2022-08-31T14:39:50.197 | |linux|server| | <p>According to <a href="https://support.hpe.com/hpesc/public/docDisplay?docId=emr_na-c05226549" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HPE</a>, the model HPE ML110 G9 processor E5-2603v4, supports RAM 16 GB up to 1866 MHz</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMkmK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMkmK.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>According to the <a href="https://www.hpe.com/psnow/doc/c04545452" rel="nofollow noreferrer">QuickSpecs</a> of this model, it comes by default with 8 GB RAM 2400 Mhz</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zYUAp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zYUAp.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>According to the dmidecode command on linux, this server provides the following information:</p>
<pre><code>sudo dmidecode --type 17
</code></pre>
<p>out</p>
<pre><code>Speed: 2400 MT/s
Configured Memory Speed: 1866 MT/s
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ve7X5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ve7X5.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>But this command is somewhat <a href="https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/521434/dmidecode-for-ram-info-which-speed-is-real-speed-info">confusing with the information it provides</a></p>
<p>What I want to know is that if I can upgrade the RAM of this server to:</p>
<p>16GB (1x16) DDR4 ECC RDIMM 2R (1866 or 2133 or 2400 or 3200 Mhz)</p>
<p>thanks</p>
| I would like a RAM recommendation for HPE ML110 G9 E5-2603v4 |
<p>Your laptop does not have the hardware needed to receive TV signals, but you can get <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B015IL0FIW" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a USB tuner like this</a> rather than use a set-top-box type.</p>
| 16264 | 2022-09-02T22:45:59.273 | |laptop|television| | <p><strong>Hey, how could I connect an antenna cable to a laptop without using a TV Tuner, in order to reproduce Live TV content? What would I need to do?
It's possible that while trying to do it without a Tuner I accidentally end up making a homemade version of it.</strong></p>
| Connect Antenna Cable To Laptop Without TV Tuner |
<p>adding the hard disk drive you mentioned, any hard disk drive for that matter, draws up to 5 watts and at idle is 3 watts. you do not need to upgrade from an existing 650 watt power supply to accomodate an additional 5 watts.</p>
<p><a href="https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/western-digital/product/internal-drives/wd-blue-hdd/data-sheet-wd-blue-pc-hard-drives-2879-771436.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/western-digital/product/internal-drives/wd-blue-hdd/data-sheet-wd-blue-pc-hard-drives-2879-771436.pdf</a></p>
<p>if you are short on sata power connectors, amazon or ebay a molex to sata_power adapter: <code>Cable Matters 3-Pack 4 Pin Molex to SATA Power Cable (SATA to Molex) - 6 Inches</code> $7.</p>
| 16274 | 2022-09-07T09:26:11.423 | |hard-disk|power-supply|upgrade| | <p>I have a pc with this configuration and my power supply is 650W
do I need to upgrade my power supply if I add a Western Digital Blue 4TB Hard Disk Drive?</p>
<p>core i5 10400F,
Asus TUF 2060,
WD Blue 1TB,
SAMSUNG 970 Evo Plus,
16GB RAM,
B460m-a Motherboard,
A Green Z2+ hero case with 5 fans.</p>
| do i need to upgrade my power supply after adding a new hdd drive? |
<p>I don't think you have to use splitters. You can use a Mini DP to DP adapter to connect one monitor, and connect the other one over HDMI. On the one connected over DP, you should be able to get 144hz, the refresh rate of external monitors is not bound to the refresh rate of your laptop monitor. On the one connected over HDMI, you may only be able to do 60hz because of the bandwidth limitations of HDMI 1.4.</p>
| 16280 | 2022-09-08T06:41:09.380 | |laptop|hdmi|multiple-monitors|display-port| | <p>I have a lap top <a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1398352-REG/asus_gl703gm_ds74_17_3_republic_of_gamers.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Asus ROG</a> and these 2 <a href="https://www.lg.com/rs/monitori/lg-27gn850-b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LG monitors</a> and I'm trying to connect them in the best possible way. If I'm not mistaken, since my lap top can only go to 120Hz, I assume I can't use the whole potential of the monitors(144Hz), but you can correct me if I'm wrong. My lap top has 1 HDMI 1.4, 1 mini Display Port and 1 USB-C slot. So, I was thinking, mini display port to display port from my lap top to a Display Port splitter, and from the splitter,2 display port to display port cables from the splitter to my monitors. Is that the best way to use the most out of the monitors refresh rate on my lap top or is there a better solution to this? Thanks in advance for your help!</p>
| Connecting 2 monitors to my lap top, best options |
<p>DRAM less SSD's are indeed generally slower and generally do wear out faster. Because of this, I reccomend getting some more money and get the MX500. Regardless of your SSD choice (all are better that a hard drive). I reccomend installing Linux since it's easier to install some servers for web devving like Apache and PHP (those only run on Linux AFAIK). Seeing how old your CPU is, VMs are not really handy.</p>
| 16294 | 2022-09-14T11:54:19.223 | |memory|ssd|data-storage|upgrade| | <p>My current system is dell inspiron 15 core i5 7th gen 5567, 8GB RAM,1TB HDD. I'm upgrading it with 500GB SSD and 8 GB RAM.</p>
<p>Take my example, I'm a CS graduate trying to learn full stack web development.</p>
<p>My usage of laptop would be learning from videos, reading articles and writing code in IDEs and running them. I'm getting lots of DRAM-less SSDs for a good price, so I'm wondering if I should grab them or not. Are there any benefits that a SSD with DRAM would offer me?</p>
<p>I'm hearing that DRAM-less SSDs wear and tear quickly and could be slower as well.</p>
<p>The reason for having to learn this information is because I'm not getting other good SSDs in my country like MX500 of Crucial or 870 EVO of Samsung.</p>
| What advantages does a SSD with a DRAM possess? |
<p>Ok, so after some more googling, I found that using the GPU during an RDP session can be done after the RDP 10 update with some registry changes and a GPU that is DirectX 11.0 compatible.</p>
<p><a href="https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/t5/security-compliance-and-identity/remote-desktop-protocol-rdp-10-avc-h-264-improvements-in-windows/ba-p/249588" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://techcommunity.microsoft.com/t5/security-compliance-and-identity/remote-desktop-protocol-rdp-10-avc-h-264-improvements-in-windows/ba-p/249588</a></p>
<p><a href="https://knowledge.civilgeo.com/knowledge-base/enabling-gpu-rendering-for-microsoft-remote-desktop/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://knowledge.civilgeo.com/knowledge-base/enabling-gpu-rendering-for-microsoft-remote-desktop/</a></p>
<p>There are more references to this that can be done with some googling.</p>
| 16302 | 2022-09-15T23:14:39.977 | |graphics-cards|windows| | <p>Maybe this is more of a networking issue, but other than a card with Solidworks-recommended specs, is there a graphics card for a machine that will be running Solidworks that will best allow me to RDP to that machine (Windows 10)? I would like this to work sort of how Fusion360 does, using the Solidworks machine like it is 'in the cloud'.</p>
<p>Before anyone says "just use Fusion" - I have Solidworks and will be using that.</p>
| Want to use Solidworks through RDP - Any graphics card recommendations |
<p>Probably not gonna happen</p>
<p>That PC has a custom PSU/mobo/case and they need to be replaced all at the same time to avoid incompatibilities or the case screws shorting out the back of the new mobo. Since that PC uses the HP Z2 Workstation standard for motherboard and PSU, it can't be replaced with ATX components.</p>
<p>For next time, maybe check out r/buildapc or this site before getting a new PC</p>
| 16328 | 2022-09-25T12:22:19.220 | |motherboard| | <p>I have the following PC that I just purchased, but I don't care for the BIOS, and when I enable Hypervisor and install Hyper-V in windows server 2022 it will no longer boot. I have spent many hours in troubleshooting this. I like the system as a whole, but I am use to custom built PC's.</p>
<p>My question is, if I purchase a motherboard that is compactable with the CPU, RAM, etc, will I be able to use the existing chassis and the PSU? If not, do you have suggestions?</p>
<p>PC: <a href="https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-z2-tower-g9-workstation-desktop-pc/2100987204/manuals" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-z2-tower-g9-workstation-desktop-pc/2100987204/manuals</a></p>
<p>Motherboard that I would like to replace it with: <a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1668940-REG/msi_pro_z690_a_lga_1700.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1668940-REG/msi_pro_z690_a_lga_1700.html</a></p>
<p>The PC that I purchased: <a href="https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1700670-REG/hp_6h907ut_aba_z2_g9_twr_i712700.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1700670-REG/hp_6h907ut_aba_z2_g9_twr_i712700.html</a></p>
| Replacing the motherboard with a different one in an HP z2 Tower G9 |
<p>having mentioned RTX, as in Nvidia, assuming it's CUDA code then yes there is the programming capability to choose which physical GPU among many that are present in a single system. But if you already have that code, and you are dependent on whomever wrote the code, then said <em>deep learning</em> code may not have been written with multiple physical GPGPU's in mind.</p>
<p>Regarding cost and multiple GPGPU's or GPU's (graphics cards) the cost of however many of those is the baseline.... to fit many into one server or workstation I believe will be more expensive than buying a $100 motherboard off newegg having one PCIe 4.0 x16 slot to accomodate just one graphics card. To fit two RTX3080 size graphics card into one PC type workstation you are generally looking at eATX size motherboards, a larger case, power supply and all associated stuff, such a mobo will run $500+ I believe.</p>
<p>And then there's servers: such as Supermicro 4U gpu models, and Dell r940xa, having up to 10 pcie slots that could accomodate 4+ double width graphics cards like the RTX3080... you're looking at BMW 5 or 7 series car price range.</p>
| 16340 | 2022-09-29T11:18:12.957 | |graphics-cards| | <p>In our institution we have two RTX 3080 GPUs and we want to find out, if it is better to have every GPU in separate PC or if it'd be better to have both GPUs in one PC. Would it be possible to e.g. run one analysis on 1st GPU and use 2nd GPU for training DL model (both GPUs connected to one MB) or maybe parallelise DL model training to both GPUs to speed it up? (although what I have red it is quite challenging to program DL model to make it work).</p>
<p>I just want to know, if it'd be more cost-efficient to place both GPUs to one PC (so we'd buy one PC case, one MB and one power supply) or if it'd be better to separate both GPUs to two PCs.</p>
<p>Thank you :)</p>
| Single or multiple GPUs for Deep Learning |
<p>So the first effect is the RAM would run at double the speed. This will give you a performance boost of 0 to 50% (depending on the workload). Also your RAM capacity doubles so if you are now running low on RAM, you could be tripling your performance (if I'm being optimistic).</p>
<p>Now let's look at your concerns</p>
<ol>
<li><p>The BIOS will choose RAM settings that are based off of the JEDEC settings and will in theory choose the fastest one that is on all modules. If you buy the Crucial stick, this will probably mean both sticks will run at 2400Mhz.</p>
</li>
<li><p>See 1. Since it will take the fastest one compatible with both modules, it's probably better to get the same speed for there to be a bigger chance of it picking the wanted speed.</p>
</li>
<li><p>The BIOS may adjust the speed to fit the slowest stick. This means if you mix CL17 and CL19 RAM it would probably run at CL19.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Please don't do that. Your laptop probably only has 2 SODIMM slots and getting 3 sticks means you have to remove one and that won't give much of a performance boost. If you don't have one, spend that $60 on an SSD, which will give you a mayor improvement in OS/app loading time.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>From the example sticks you have shown me, the Crucial RAM fits your current RAM the best, so that will be your best bet. It's also $6 cheaper where I live.</p>
| 16367 | 2022-10-09T20:52:45.813 | |laptop|memory|upgrade| | <p>I have a Dell Precision 3520 with the following specs regarding to RAM:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkk16.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkk16.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Slot 1 is filled (see below), slot 2 is empty.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/f79iR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/f79iR.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>In some sites RAM is presented to upgrade which is barely available, so I like to buy RAM from some local dealer. My questions are:</p>
<ol>
<li>If I buy DDR4 16 GB RAM with a clock speed of e.g. 2400 or 2667 MHz, will it decrease the speed of the already placed RAM (1200 MHz)?</li>
<li>Would I benefit if I buy two 2400/2667 MHz RAMs? (as maybe 1200 MHz is the maximum that is used by this 'old' laptop? (is there a way to know the best speed to use for this laptop? or is faster 'always' better?)</li>
<li>If the latency of the new RAM would be e.g. 19, would then the 'overall' latency be 19 ? or worse than 17 or 19 ?</li>
<li>If I buy one new 16 GB RAM and find out my system is much faster, if I would buy another same type of the new 16 GB RAM, is that equally good as buying a 'set of 2 RAM modules' ? Or can I assume two equally RAM modules would behave like a set?</li>
</ol>
<p>The RAM I have in mind is a Crucial CT16G4SFD824A (16 GB DDR 4 SODIMM 2400 MHz, CAS latency 17, voltage: 1.2V, ECC Type: Non-ECC
or:
Corsair Vengeance CMSO16GX4M1A2133C15 (16 GB, DDR4, 2133 MHz, CAS LAtency 15, 1.2V, Non-ECC)</p>
<p>There are more types, but just some to show as example.</p>
| RAM effects for upgrade |
<p><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FingerWorks" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fingerworks Touchstream</a>. The printed design looks a little bit 3D but actually the keyboard surfaces are completely flat. It just relies on touch, no force or impact is necessary. It also has some cool features like multi-touch gestures. I never had one but I knew someone who had one who highly recommended it for anyone suffering from repetitive stress typing injuries.</p>
<p>Difficulties: It has been discontinued since around 2005. Used ones turn up on eBay, etc., but not necessarily in working condition and the software would be very out of date by this point. It was expensive to begin with and price has only increased. Also, it looks like something from the dot-com era.</p>
| 16370 | 2022-10-10T07:02:42.443 | |keyboards| | <p>I have been trying to find this for years.</p>
<p>Does anyone know of a completely flat keyboard without any physical keys? Just the letters typed on the flat keyboard.</p>
<p>Like this <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o60zMOH1u0KeM68hGHVCqcpMbY3iOTL9/view?usp=drivesdk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lenovo Yoga Book</a> has.</p>
<p>Any help would be much appreciated.</p>
<h1>Note</h1>
<ul>
<li>I find it easy to type on flat keyboards (lenovo yogabook), feedback doesn't affect me (always turn off haptics) and I hate mechanical keyboard with their huge deep keys.</li>
</ul>
| Flat keyboard without any physical keys |
<p>Ok, I thought I'd circle back and answer my question, since I went ahead and got the enclosure.</p>
<p>I tested the transfer rate of the drive in its new enclosure, it sustained 80 MB/s for some files, but on average it's 65-70 MB/s, which is about twice as fast as before, so it's an improvement.</p>
<p>About the drives themselves: The WD drive is definitely not of the same type as the Seagate one. I don't dare open up the Seagate case since it doesn't look like it was meant to be opened easily. But in any case, when it's plugged in, SCSI is part of the description, which I think is why it gets up to 100-105 MB/s. (Edit: due to it spinning at a higher RPM)</p>
<p>In any case I'm happy with the outcome.</p>
| 16407 | 2022-10-19T14:16:18.610 | |usb|hard-disk|drive-enclosure| | <p>I have a Western Digital Scorpio Blue (WD500BEVT) 2.5" 500 GB HDD which, as purchased years ago, is in an enclosure with a Mini-B USB connector (Yes, MINI). When I transfer files to/from my PC, I get a transfer rate of 30-35 MB/s. I also have a Seagate SRD00F1 500 GB drive which has a USB 3.0 Micro-B connection <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:USB_2.0_and_3.0_connectors.svg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wikipedia image of connectors</a>. This drive achieves 100-105 MB/s, or roughly 3 times faster than the other drive.</p>
<p>Would getting a new case with a USB 3.0 micro-B connection for the WD drive allow it to transfer at a rate comparable to the Seagate?</p>
| External HDD enclosure effect on transfer speed |
<p>I found this one. I don't know if it is compatible with windows 11 though.</p>
<p>I would recommend trying to update to windows 11. Though I do warn that this is only a 1rst generation ASUS motherboard. I hope ME mk1 goes down well with those who buy it!
buy the motherboard <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B08KH12V25" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a></p>
| 16408 | 2022-10-19T16:52:01.813 | |motherboard|desktop|low-cost| | <p>So, I am working on opening a computer company (called Opportunity Computing in case you were wondering) and my first concept, the ME mark 1, requires a motherboard that can handle the heavy-duty jobs that ME mk1 is designed to do. It needs to have enough computing power to be used professionally but not so much that it would be (too) expensive. I <em>Emphasize</em> that my budget isn't really in great shape right now due to reasons I'd rather not mention.</p>
| What kind of motherboard would be good for my PC? How much does it cost? |
<p>I just did a chat session with Lenovo to ask the difference between the two. Basically the Gen4 Performance is the better SSD and it's cheaper at the moment because of their supply chain cost.</p>
| 16424 | 2022-10-22T00:22:55.140 | |ssd| | <p>I'm configuring a <a href="https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/p/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpadx1/thinkpad-x1-carbon-gen-10-(14-inch-intel)/21cbcto1wwus2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ThinkPad X1 Carbon</a>, and looking at the SSD. What is the difference between <code>M.2 2280 PCIe TLC Opal</code> and <code>M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 Performance TLC Opal</code>? From what I've read <a href="https://www.sportskeeda.com/gaming-tech/pcie-gen-4-vs-gen-3-do-need-spend-extra-ssds" rel="nofollow noreferrer">elsewhere</a> Gen4 is faster+more expensive, but on the Lenovo page Gen4 is actually cheaper (screenshots below). What's going on?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7lnq.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7lnq.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gynaR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gynaR.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| "M.2 2280 PCIe TLC Opal" vs "M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 Performance TLC Opal" |
<p>I’d recommend not attempting, for many reasons:</p>
<ul>
<li>Unless the CPU is socketed (laptops rarely are), you have hours of delicate and dangerous (potential damaging CPU or logic board) soldering.</li>
<li>Putting a newer CPU than supported by the BIOS could leave your CPU without proper microcode. This could result in the system not working or if you are lucky hardly any issues.</li>
<li>The power issue could cause the system to suddenly power off if the logic board can not supply sufficient power needed.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you have a lot of experience doing this, go for it. The worse thing that happens is you destroy the CPU and logic board.</p>
<p>If you are wishing to do this as a learning experience, there are far too many variables that will be difficult to isolate or learn doing this. Choose another project with less variables.</p>
| 16466 | 2022-11-12T12:41:19.513 | |laptop|processor| | <p>I have this really neat laptop from 2010 that I want to refurbish. I want to replace the RAM and disk together with the CPU. According to the HP manual: <a href="http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c02066162.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c02066162.pdf</a> - the best supported CPU is 7 620M but the best CPU supported by the Mobile Intel® QM57 Express chipset would be the i7 i940XM. The problem with the latter option is that the CPU is rated 20W higher than the i7 620M and it is not 32nm but 45nm.</p>
<p>I still have to ask the dumb question of: if I increase the cooling and use a beefier power supply, would the i7 i940XM not work? What else limits the CPU compatibility?</p>
<p>Also, is there a site where I can find laptops with a specific CPU? I have got access to many HP laptops, and maybe I could salvage the aforementioned CPUs from there.</p>
<p>What upgrades would you recommend (not looking at the cost) to maximize the performance of this laptop?</p>
<p>What do you think the performance benefits will be from such an upgrade I am describing here?</p>
<p>PS. This is mostly just for the learning experience, not that upgrading a 10+ year old laptop is a good idea. Also, if it matters, I plan to use the most barebones version of Gentoo linux so that I have the most performance while using it.</p>
| Upgrading cpu on the HP EliteBook 2740p |
<p>I've found some. The trick is not to search small/mini keyboards, but to specify size: 10 inch keyboard, or 9/8/7 inch. There are some variaty, e.g.: <a href="https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002710390758.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, <a href="https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003964778642.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, and <a href="https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001325887607.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>.</p>
<p>About the size: The centeral keyboard part (from tab/shift/control to the backsapce/enter/shift) of normal keyboard is about 11inch. And the small ones come basically in those sizes: ~10inch, ~9inch, and ~7.8inch.</p>
<p>Important to check before buying: Not all of the keyboards conatin function keys. Also, not all of them conatin tiny-bumps on "F" and "J" keys, and those are important for touch typing. Lastly, not all keyboards support PCs (but most of them do).</p>
| 16475 | 2022-11-15T08:00:13.900 | |keyboards| | <p>My little kid wants to learn touch typing, but has little hands (7yo). The letters-zone in regular keyboard is too big.</p>
<p>I'm searching for pc USB keyboard, with regular keys layout, preferably full one (104 keys), that is smaller than the standard one, by 10/20/30 percent. I don't care if it's mechanical or not. And I don't need specific printed language (or print at all).</p>
<p>I couldn't find one in AliExpress nor in any other internet store. Are there any? Recommendations?</p>
| Small keyboard/keys for kid with little hands that want to learn touch typing |
<p>Cisco <a href="https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/products/collateral/switches/catalyst-3560-cx-series-switches/datasheet-c78-733229.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">C3560CX-8PT-S</a> has remote management, up to two PoE upstream power sources, 8 ports, wall and rack mountable. You can power with a single PoE+ upstream or two PoE upstream.</p>
<p>They are readily available on eBay for reasonable prices now.</p>
| 16482 | 2022-11-17T11:10:57.503 | |switch| | <p>I'm shopping for a Gigabit Ethernet switch</p>
<ol>
<li>With remote administration allowing assigning VLAN to downstream ports ("Layer2+")</li>
<li>Powered over Ethernet by the upstream link (no power cord or adapter). PoE pass-through not required.</li>
<li>With 1 upstream, at least 4 downstream ports (7 or 8 ideal)</li>
<li>Most preferably, rack-mountable</li>
</ol>
<p>Lacking 2, there is the <a href="https://www.tp-link.com/en/business-networking/easy-smart-switch/tl-sg1016de/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TL-SG1016DE</a>.</p>
<p>Update: Lacking 4, the <a href="https://eu.dlink.com/us/en/-/media/business_products/dgs/dgs-1100/datasheet/dgs_1100_v2_datasheet_en_eu.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DGS-1100-05PDV2</a>.</p>
<hr />
<p>Final update: thanks to the accepted answer, I checked the PoE out capability of the device (an RB1100AHX4 router) that was supposed to power my switch thru it's upstream port. Turns out this has PoE in but not PoE out, as I was told. My whole plan thus can not work.</p>
| Gigabit ethernet switch with VLAN management powered thru PoE |
<p>K150 you mentioned is wrong, since it's PIC only (PIC's are 8 bit micro-controllers from Microchip).</p>
<p>I believe SP200SE will not work either, since <a href="https://www.rhydolabz.com/documents/27/SP200S%20USER%20GUIDE.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I was able to find a document</a> that mentions support only for Winbond W78.</p>
<p>What you are looking is <a href="https://www.ebay.de/itm/271313593347?hash=item3f2b8ce403:g:0jYAAOSw3KFWcTcz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwD%2BWWli52XrREvFGX3AGq3%2FsDFvVZvrTUpfRjJkjCzG0eZ%2FLZe5kqofyKrx52rb3dLEWL43Qrsrz683y8d6s3rbh1%2FgmyJoMeZrwD3rvhuDmXJoPXp88p6S%2BtS9wlUE9dCOCli36TMlnj%2F44LXh%2F2seHuqfGMWPt60O07fo%2Bf%2FO35yKyGOdAaiVhuV9Alq6gWiO%2BN1iorzTDJo%2FUXWseOOKBYLavF1Hywjkg3XNNJMQROlGFScO7EmCkHZirV6R%2BEA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5DqnKSTYQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">something like this</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nu5lI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nu5lI.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Description specifically mentions it is able to program Winbond W49F002, which is your case.</p>
<p>Anyway, looks like W49 is rather old stuff dated around 2000, so finding this kind of outdated programmer might be tricky. Good luck with your search!</p>
| 16491 | 2022-11-20T17:53:28.580 | |motherboard|memory| | <p>I have a Winbond BIOS chip W49F002UP12B and I want to program it using an USB programmer. I know the form is called PLCC32.</p>
<p>I found this <a href="https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJ0FFJP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">adapter</a>. I think it's the right one.</p>
<p>But I do not know which programmer to use.</p>
<p>I found the <a href="https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExofYTT" rel="nofollow noreferrer">K150 programmer</a>. There is a long list of supported chip types. But I don't know them and which type mine is.</p>
<p>Than there is the <a href="https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQ3ZZl3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SP200SE</a> programmer. It explicitly says it's for Winbond. But it also says it's for SCM 24/93 chips. So I don't know if it works for my chip.</p>
<p>Can anyone tell me which programmer to use? Please tell me one from Aliexpress under 15€ (shipping included). Thanks.</p>
| Which USB programmer can be used for a Winbond PLCC32 BIOS chip? |
<p>The adapter you want does not exist.</p>
<p>Thunderbolt is not bidirectional, there is a host side and a client side in its design.
In the normal "forward" adapters the host is the computer, and the computer has a chipset inside that essentially converts the Thunderbolt device into a PCI express device. It is closely integrated with the CPU or southbridge on the motherboard. Thunderbolt cannot even be added to PCs that don't have it (at the time of answering, USB 4.0 might change that).</p>
<p>In that "reverse" adapter you proposed, the adapter would have to be the thunderbolt host because the laptop is not. That would require a rather high performance embedded CPU and OS to allow the thunderbolt end to function at all. This is cost prohibiting for a simple video adapter and I expect that is the reason why nobody has made one as a product you can buy.</p>
| 16499 | 2022-11-21T20:06:00.043 | |usb|hdmi|thunderbolt|adapter| | <p>Normally, searching for Thunderbolt adapters, we get things doing</p>
<ul>
<li>A thunderbolt on input.</li>
<li>An USB and HDMI output.</li>
</ul>
<p>Thus, we can connect a thunderbolt laptop to a HDMI monitor and USB keyboard.</p>
<p><strong>What I want, that is the exact opposite.</strong></p>
<p>I have an old laptop without a Thunderbolt connector. I want to connect it into a Thunderbolt cable. So I need a thing where</p>
<ul>
<li>I can plug in the HDMI and USB in some adapter</li>
<li>a thunderbolt cable comes out where the other side thinks, it is a thunderbolt laptop.</li>
</ul>
<p>On this way, a normal and such an "inverse thunderbolt adapter" could work like a remote console for old laptops.</p>
<p>Does such a thing exist? Webshops and search engines show up always only the "forward" variant, unfortunately.</p>
<p>P.s. normally, thunderbolt gives also power. That is a no-issue in my case (I can live with it if it can not happen).</p>
| Adapter to connect old laptops into thunderbolt display/usb |
<p>Opening a file that large is memory intensive and single core limited.</p>
<p>Depending on active memory not used by cache, you will need at least that much ram. Reboot, then open a sample file and check your memory usage.</p>
<p>So you should look at single core performance of about Geekbench 5 of 1,700 or more. Your CPU ranges from 1,200 to 1,700 depending on GHz.</p>
<p>I regularly use large files like that in Excel for macOS on a MacBook Pro M1 Max Geekbench 5 of 1,780 with 64 GB ram. It’s usable.</p>
| 16537 | 2022-12-06T08:06:45.147 | |graphics-cards|processor|motherboard|memory|ssd| | <p>I work for a software company. When we sign new clients, the old software supplier makes a 'dump' of their database that we can then import. However, 99 out of 100 times we manually have to do a lot of things with these dumps to make them compatible with our software.</p>
<p>Since these dumps can be pretty large (the sheet itself can be up to 500mb - 1gb) and contain 100's of thousands or millions of records), we need a really good PC that can handle this well. When we open one dump, it can take up to 30 seconds. When we save some of the changes we've made, it can also take somewhere between 10 - 30 seconds.</p>
<p>FYI, the PC we're doing this on right now has these specs</p>
<ul>
<li>Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3060 EAGLE OC 12G 2.0</li>
<li>AMD Ryzen 5 5600X</li>
<li>Crucial P2 1TB M.2 PCIe Gen3 NVMe Internal SSD - Up to 2400MB/s - CT1000P2SSD8</li>
<li>Crucial Ballistix BL2K8G36C16U4B 3600 MHz, DDR4, DRAM, Desktop Gaming Memory Kit, 32 GB (8 GB x4), CL16</li>
<li>I am not sure about the motherboard, but we need WiFi :)</li>
</ul>
<p>I basically need a PC with a really good SSD, Processor and RAM. There won't be any gaming, so a really simple or cheap GPU will be just fine.</p>
<p>What are your hardware recommendations?</p>
<p>BTW: not looking for an upgrade. We need a new build anyway.</p>
| What hardware do I need for large large (Excel) data dumps (NO gaming)? |
<p>If you're looking for similar options from other brands: Logitech and Cherry have wired keyboard options that work well with Apple and you a search for them on Amazon. If not, you can find decent second-hand options at Amazon too.</p>
| 16569 | 2022-12-21T12:46:48.603 | |usb| | <p>I've recently (December 2022) learned that Apple no longer sells wired keyboards. My touch-typing has become extremely optimized for one of their USB keyboards and I'd like to find a suitable replacement. I use older Linux hardware, so anything with a battery or wireless-only features is not suitable, nor am I interested in increasing the number of adapters and dongles in my apartment to fit a new wireless keyboard to older hardware (these can be lost, and introduce points of failure).</p>
<p>I do not know the official name/# of this model, but it can be described as: Aluminum body, USB-A cable, ANSI layout, shallow profile, slight angle, thin keys, numeric keypad, and essentially indestructible until you spill coffee on it.</p>
<p>I would like a replacement that replicates the discontinued keyboard in terms of</p>
<ul>
<li>Wrist and posture ergonomics: A similarly shallow profile and slight angle, identical hand position when typing.</li>
<li>Matching kinematics: Keys of comparable size, position, thickness, force profiles, travel distances, and acoustic and mechanical properties associate with key-press and release.</li>
<li>Matching features: USB-A ANSI layout with navigation keys and numeric keypad.</li>
<li>Nothing too lightweight: something that will stay in place on the desk.</li>
<li>No wireless features or batteries, thank you very much.</li>
<li>Durable enough to last ten years with a fair amount of mechanical abuse.</li>
</ul>
<p>Nice to haves:</p>
<ul>
<li>Coffee proof</li>
<li>Easy to source in the UK</li>
<li>From a manufacturer with a good reputation for buy-it-for life hardware, professionalism in business transactions, <em>and respecting their users.</em></li>
<li>Backlit? Maybe? If it can be achieved without compromising performance/durability?</li>
</ul>
<p><em><strong>Would anyone happen to know of any keyboards that approximate these specifications?</strong></em></p>
<p>I <em>can</em> provide arguments defending my sensorimotor inflexibility and arbitrary hardware preferences, but I trust this community is sufficiently familiar with diversity, both neurological and in terms of practical and aesthetic technology preferences (:</p>
<p>Other <em>possibly</em> relevant notes:</p>
<ul>
<li>The keyboard will be used with older PCs running Linux</li>
<li>I'll need to buy it in the UK, but really do <em>need</em> the ANSI layout: I cannot for the life of me type on the ISO layouts with their weird vertical enter key (it requires shifting hand position on the home row and violates some other textbook best-practices for human-computer interface design). I spent three years trying: Thought-train derailing typos every three minutes, and never recovered typing proficiency. Everything went back to normal when I switched back to ANSI. I guess a neuroplasticity window closed.</li>
<li>I <em>have</em> looked on Ebay for old copies of the desired model, but the ANSI version just isn't common in the UK secondary market.</li>
<li>US layout preferred but as long as the key geometry matches the form US-layout USB-A ANSI Apple aluminum keyboard with numeric keypad, it will be good.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Updates:</h2>
<p>Before @Tetsujin's answer, I impulse bought an aluminum keyboard from a company called Matias, which <em>claimed</em> to be making clones of Apple's old keyboards. The keyboard arrived. It resembles the apple keyboard, but isn't sparking joy.</p>
<ul>
<li>Yes, the key spacing and profile matches, but the manufacturing quality is simply good, not excellent. The keys themselves are not uniformly aligned with the cutouts in the aluminum plate.</li>
<li>The keys feel <em>"off"</em>. I'm not sure what it is, it feels like they are slightly higher, or have slightly further travel distance, or are in some other way weightier and more sluggish. I keep glancing the edges of the keys, suggesting they have further travel distance or are less rounded on the edges. Apple keyboards do wear in over time, so part of this might be me comparing an aged Apple keyboard with something new. But we'll see. There was just <em>something</em> about the old Apple keyboards that allowed extremely rapid typing (I suspect it was minimizing the weight of the keys, and optimizing the travel distance and force to provide unambiguous tactile feedback while minimizing force and motion)</li>
</ul>
<p>However, I <em>can</em> confirm, per @Tetsujin's answer, that the keyword "Apple A1243 US" <em>does</em> return some suppliers on eBay within the UK. I will be ordering one of those now.</p>
<p>In the long term, the secondary market for "Apple A1243 US" <em>will</em> dry up, in which case the search remains open for a keyboard that is:</p>
<ul>
<li>Robust, Low profile, high-quality ANSI 109-key layout or similar with</li>
<li>Spacing, height, force, travel distance comparable to Apple's old keyboards</li>
</ul>
<p>I <em>suspect</em> that the answer is pretty simple and there are some default keyboards e.g. from Dell or something that will meet these requirements with a bit of "neural recalibration".</p>
<p>I think for my purposes the low profile, low force, and low travel distances, will be the most important for preventing inflammation and pain in the small joints of the fingers. Obviously matching other aspects of geometry and kinematics would be a plus for allowing over-trained touch-typing motor programs to transfer, but I'll admit that other physical parameters might allow even fast pain-free typing with some practice.</p>
| Replacement brand for Apple ANSI wired keyboard with numeric keypad? |
<p>At <code>r/buildapc</code> we don't really look at future proofing since it's generally more expensive and not really that good.</p>
<p>But if you are looking to upgrade your CPU every 2 or 3 years, you are currently better off with AMD. They have a reputation for supporting their sockets pretty long (AM4 was 5 years, AM5 is gonna be at least 3 years) while Intel tends to makes their socket incompatible after 2 generations of CPUs (1 1/2 to 2 years).</p>
<p>If you are upgrading often, AMD and the higher end B650 boards are probably best for you.</p>
| 16586 | 2022-12-28T08:24:21.393 | |graphics-cards|processor|motherboard|intel|nvidia| | <p>All my life I have bought all my gaming PCs with Intel CPUs.</p>
<p>I always face a major issue, though: 2 to 3 years after buying a new PC, when I try to replace my 2 to 3 years old GPU with a brand new latest 2x to 3x more powerful GPU to match my gaming needs, my Intel CPU always becomes the bottleneck. I can’t even just upgrade the CPU to latest generation to match the GPU because the motherboard won’t allow it. As a result, just to use a new GPU, I have to buy a completely new PC!</p>
<p>Are AMD motherboards better future-proofed so that after 3 to 4 years I could upgrade my CPU to match new GPU speed without buying a whole PC? Or is Intel also more future proof in recent products they release?</p>
<p>I’m buying a new PC again, so this time I’m trying to decide: Should I go AMD or Intel; which will be better future proofed?</p>
<p>If history repeats itself, then only AMD motherboards can support the next few generations of CPU and Intel will not; right? Will an AMD socket AM5 motherboard support Zen 5 and Zen 6 CPUs too?</p>
<p>Will Intel launch any socket which will support a few more future generations?</p>
| Between Intel or AMD, whose latest motherboards will support more numbers of future generations of CPU sockets and specifications? |
<p><strong>yes</strong></p>
<p>if you consider a microwave oven which operates at 2.4ghz the same frequency as old 802.11g, has it's door grill screen mesh about the same size as a computer case vent mesh, and if the computer case is largely metal... even if one side is transparent plastic... the antenna on top of the case won't have a radiation pattern going downward into the case.</p>
<p>Not to mention motherboards that come with wifi, 802.11ac and ax which happens also in 5Ghz; their little wifi antenna that connects via SMA to the back of the motherboard where the USB ports are (which i would consider a <em>less safe</em> antenna placement in terms of possible interference) and they all work with zero problems caused.</p>
| 16626 | 2023-01-11T19:10:20.803 | |wifi|desktop|antennas| | <p>I have a Tp-Link Archer TX20U Plus dual-antenna USB adapter, connected via USB cable to my desktop workstation, and I'd like to know if it's <strong>safe</strong> to position it on the top of the case of my workstation.</p>
<p>Could there be interference or other kinds of malfunctions?</p>
| Is it safe to position a dual-antenna WiFi USB adapter on the top of a computer case? |
<p>Just saying, maybe if it's some kinda server you are better off with a second hand PC and install Linux, since that is generally more stable. The rest of the answer works both for Windows 11 and Linux.</p>
<p>If you can still get it around €50, the AMD Athlon 3000G is an excellent CPU for your use case. You don't need a GPU to POST or boot, it's cheap and can run basic server stuff (like a bitcoin wallet that does not mine too, or a web server like Apache for your bitcoin wallet interface). For the motherboard, I have the MSI B450M -A pro MAX. It has most features you would want on a server, except ECC support, and should work perfectly with the Athlon 3000G (I have not tested this though, but according to the MSI website it does)</p>
| 16653 | 2023-01-23T06:53:49.407 | |processor| | <p>The purpose is to run some bitcoin wallet and will rarely be opened or anything.</p>
<p>I want to run electrum, exodus, that's it. Maybe anti malewarebytes.</p>
<p>I got some cheap computer but my partner want something that can run windows 11. Maybe with TPM I guess.</p>
<p>I am thinking of some mobo and CPU combination. Speed is not important as long as it's not too slow.</p>
<p>What would be the one I should buy?</p>
| What is the cheapest computer (mobo/CPU) that can run windows 11 |
<p>So for RAM you need the same generation for it to work, that's it. If you get uneven size sticks, the performace will drop when one of the sticks is full (but it will be similar as with one stick of RAM). Brand doesn't really matter although to get XMP working better you do generally want the specs and the brand of the chips to be as close as possible. DDR4 won't fit though since your mobo only supports DDR3(L)</p>
| 16672 | 2023-02-01T22:11:22.930 | |laptop|memory| | <p>I have an Asus X55LAB, here are the specifications:</p>
<ul>
<li>Processor: Intel i5-5200u 2.2 GHz</li>
<li>RAM: 4 GB DDR3L</li>
</ul>
<p>The laptop has an accessible 2nd RAM slot. I know I should buy a SODIMM card. I've heard a lot and some of it is contradictory. So, my questions are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Is it true that the best option, having a first 4GB DDR3l, is to get another 4 GB DDR3 memory? Supposedly, if you get different sizes then "performance drops"</li>
<li>What are the real consequences of installing, for example, an 8GB memory in the RAM slot having an original 4GB card? And the same for getting a DDR4 card? Would it even work?</li>
<li>Does the brand of the memory really matter? I mean, I don't want to pay for an expensive card to get just the same as a cheaper one only because it says "Gamer" in the title and because of the brand.</li>
<li>Are there any speed/clock issues that I should look for before buying? Or if I make sure of getting a DDR3L memory then I'm okay?</li>
</ul>
<p>Thanks to all, I appreciate some guidance here.</p>
| Which RAM should I buy? |
<p>for the consumer market, as in the average person building a home pc from parts acquired from newegg or amazon, yes it seems like GPU's are not like CPU's in terms of their installation into a computer - with the GPU being on a separate piece of hardware (the graphics card) that plugs into the motherboard via PCIe slot (and use to be an advanced graphics port (AGP) back in the day).</p>
<p>But a GPU is very much like a CPU, in terms of die form factor. And there are direct motherboard installations. The best example being the SXM2 form factor from Nvidia. You won't find this in the consumer market, this is in the enterprise / corporate realm where you are looking at a rack mount style server that costs upward of $50,000.</p>
<p>Dell has a model C4140 for example that incorporates some number of SXM2 style Nvidia gpu's, V100 model and later. I'm sure there are similar offerings from other big manufacturers like HP, Supermicro, and so on.</p>
<p>The gpu is however many mm in length and width, and dissipates N watts, and requires cooling, just like a cpu. Whether it's on a separate piece of hardware with it's own heat sink and fan, and is modular and plugs into the mainboard via pcie slot... or is incorporated onto the mainboard and has a heat sink on top of it just like the cpu does and uses case fans for cooling, is just form factor and is trivial.</p>
<p>look at <a href="https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Enterprise/GPU-Server/G190-G30-rev-100" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Enterprise/GPU-Server/G190-G30-rev-100</a></p>
<p>we get gpu incorporated in to the cpu currently, with Intel's integrated graphics for example, so you can have a motherboard that has vga/dvi/hdmi/dp ports on it and you're not required to install a dedicated graphics card to get graphics. Will the consumer market ever see higher end gpu capability that <strong>sort of</strong> comes with on-motherboard gpu like the SXM form factor? with just 1 gpu there's no real good reason to go SXM style over modular pcie graphics card. SXM shines over pcie when you have multiple gpu's doing hard core gpu type of [cuda] processing, not just rendering graphics to a monitor to play a game. but who knows.</p>
| 16673 | 2023-02-01T22:14:25.123 | |graphics-cards|processor| | <p>why GPUs, generally are in another electrical board (video card) and are not like CPUs to be installed in the motherboard?</p>
| why video cards/GPU are not like CPUs in terms of installation into a computer? |
<p>802.11ac is the norm today, and that will work with everything. If you buy a laptop and it doesn't have 802.11ac (or ax or something newer) you are getting shafted.</p>
<p>when 802.11ac in the future doesn't suit your needs, buy a usb-to-wifi adapter that provides you 802.11ax, or wifi6, or wifi7... etc.</p>
| 16720 | 2023-02-28T17:51:30.423 | |laptop|wifi|network-adapter| | <p>When purchasing a new laptop, which Wi-Fi standards are recommended for a college student that will be paid for by a frugal parent?</p>
<p>802.11b
802.11a
802.11g
802.11n
802.11ac
802.11ax</p>
| When purchasing a new laptop, which Wi-Fi standards are recommended for a college student that will be paid for by a frugal parent? |
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDcKL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDcKL.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
Yes @Tetsuhin - you are right. I can see this on the power supply.
It's Cooler Master PS-4601-1 power supply made for HP.
It can take 100V-240V</p>
| 17761 | 2023-03-22T23:26:50.787 | |switch| | <p>In the past, I used to buy desktop in USA and there was a clear switch at the back of the cabinet to switch the input voltage from 220v to 110v and vice versa as mentioned <a href="https://www.lifewire.com/power-supply-voltage-switch-2625973" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.
I am planning to buy this one:
<a href="https://www.costco.com/.product.100941399.html?EMID=B2C_2023_0322_DiningFocus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.costco.com/.product.100941399.html?EMID=B2C_2023_0322_DiningFocus</a>
for my nephew in India.</p>
<p>Should I buy it? Upon checking with HP and Costco sales/customer service - there is no such switch in this desktop.</p>
| Does this destop has voltage switch capability? |
<p>there is an example of somebody playing Plasma this way <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI2KY4ZOenM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI2KY4ZOenM</a></p>
<p>I think the developers of Plasma mentioned that there may be a Mac version too later.</p>
| 17780 | 2023-03-29T14:04:31.737 | |gaming|macbook| | <p>Can I play <a href="https://store.steampowered.com/app/1409160/Plasma/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Plasma</a> on the MacBook Air M1 base model?
Maybe using Parallels? The requirements mention GPU. But there is a GPU in the MacBook Air M1 base model. Could it run the game?</p>
| Can I play Plasma on the MacBook Air M1 base model? |
<p>Probably fake answer that laptop manufacturers are gonna give you: yes, we need to make laptops thinner and ethernet ports are too big.</p>
<p>Probably real answer: Cost saving. Good network controllers can cost like €40 and spending money on 2 is not really that cost effective. So they only spend money on the one most peoples prefer using, which is wifi. It's not because they are too big (both HP and Framework have used/are using smaller ethernet ports that extend to a full size when you plug the cable in), but the main reason is probably cost savings</p>
| 17804 | 2023-04-13T06:18:41.947 | |wifi|networking|ethernet|performance| | <p>When looking to purchase a laptop, I am finding it difficult to find one with the specification I prefer <strong>and</strong> an ethernet connection.</p>
<p>When, for example, uploading a pre-built website to a hosting server, a decent connection speed is preferred as it can take a while on WiFi. Ethernet is far faster than WiFi speeds.</p>
<p>Is there a reason ethernet connections are not being provided on many laptops now?</p>
| Why are ethernet connections disappearing from new laptops? |
<p>Looks like this is cheaper alternative:
BOXY with Dune HD Media Center, ~100 €
<a href="https://www.dune-hd.com/products/boxy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.dune-hd.com/products/boxy</a></p>
<p>It is on the way to CoreELEC developers.</p>
<p>Update: This device is locked and not possible to run CoreELEC on it.</p>
| 17810 | 2023-04-16T11:19:20.393 | |android|hdtv|set-top-box| | <p>What can you recommend for playing video files with dolby vision?
Also it should support the passthrough of all the lossless audio formats through HDMI (Dolby TrueHD, DTS-MA, atmos).
I would like to keep the budget for this at <del>70 eur</del> 150 EUR.</p>
<p>Currently I use H96 max x3 box with CoreELEC, but it can't output dolby vision. The tv I'm using is LG C1. I like the minimalistic approach of the CoreELEC software, but I'm willing to adapt if some other combination of software brings more supported formats. And for the sake of more options - any other software is welcome in the answers.</p>
| Android tv box for dolby vision and lossless audio formats passthrough |
<p>If you check the <a href="https://helpx.adobe.com/animate/system-requirements.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">requirements</a> for this software you will see the only things related to GPU are OpenGL version and DirectX version. Nothing more.</p>
<p>(Feel free to compare it with <a href="https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/system-requirements.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lightroom</a> or <a href="https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/system-requirements.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Photoshop</a> requirements where is clearly visible you need powerful GPU for better performance)</p>
| 17813 | 2023-04-17T10:01:14.160 | |graphics-cards|processor| | <p>I couldn't find any definitive answer so I'm asking here if putting more of the budget towards a high end GPU is more beneficial vs a better CPU when it comes to Adobe Aninmate? The computer would not be used for gaming and will solely be for Adobe Animate. I just don't know if that software relies more on CPU or GPU to do its thing and need some guidance.</p>
| Would Adobe Animate get huge benefits from a high end graphics card? |
<p>TPU is what you need.</p>
<p>Coral USB accelerator could be used.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8Kjq.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8Kjq.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>They were originally $79.99, but unfortunately availability suffers and its near impossible to find one that that price.</p>
<p>One amazon user said</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I use it to offload video motion detection from my frigate
home-assistant instance. It moves the load to the TPU, meaning I can
run my 7 CCTV cameras at 15 fps. Which previously would not have been
possible without putting my CPU at 50% load.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Can be found on amazon and at other retailers, but at a wide range of prices.</p>
| 17818 | 2023-04-21T15:15:08.567 | |video-camera|home-security|video-capture|smart-home| | <p>When searching for a cheap video card for image recognition all the articles seem to have the AI learning in mind. But that is now what I need.
So the use-case is:
I have a small laptop based server running homeassistant and surveillance recording software. I am running an image recognition software on the images from 2 cameras ones a minute on the CPU. This is working fine but I would like to increase the frequency and probably even number of cameras. All this while not increasing the power usage a lot and in tight budget. The PC has a single PCIe 1x that can be stuffed with a riser.
Is there something that could be just better than CPU or is it a waste of time?</p>
| PCIe 1x cheap video card for image recognition with existing model |
<p>The more pixels you have to draw, the more work has to be done by both CPU & GPU.</p>
<p>The Intel HD 4400 was not a 'good' GPU when new & is now a 10-year-old design [no longer supported by Intel or Microsoft]. It's an on-chip device which was used on Intel CPUs for a couple of years between 2013 & 2015. To know more detail we'd need to know the exact CPU model number.</p>
<p>There is a <em>big</em> difference in the amount of processing needed to power an "HD" display compared to a "4k". The display you propose is going to fall somewhere between these - however, a bigger issue night be in whether the GPU supports an ultrawide [WQHD 3440 x 1440 @ 100Hz] configuration at all. I very much doubt it will be able to run it at 100Hz.<br />
It would be wise to research not only what maximum resolutions your computer supports, but also whether there is support for this type of ultrawide display at all.</p>
<p>You may be better off looking at a more 'regular' 2k configuration - a 27" 2560x1440 display for instance.</p>
| 17819 | 2023-04-21T16:18:20.067 | |mice|video-adapters|mouse-pad| | <p>I'm buying a new monitor for a system using the video card "Intel HD Graphics 4400". (I'm thinking about buying this <a href="https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-34-curved-monitor-s3422dw/apd/210-axns/monitors-monitor-accessories" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DELL S3422DW</a>. I'm wondering how good of a monitor I can buy that will be decently supported by this video card.</p>
<p>I did a test using a large monitor and the video card seemed to display okay at a resolution of <code>3840 x 2160</code>. However, I noticed the mouse seemed to have a delay. I don't own the monitor, so I can't easily test it again --- it didn't occur to me then to try to see if there was something wrong with the surface where I was sliding the mouse on. I did a second test using another mouse --- a wireless one and I did use a mousepad that's usually used by it --- and I saw the same delay.</p>
<p>I was wondering --- could it be that the mouse is drawn by the video card and somehow it is slow at those high resolutions? (Or was the optical mouse just in a bad surface for it?)</p>
<p>I have a 46" TV at home and the video card is able to get <code>1980 x 1080</code> on this TV. I don't see a delay in the mouse at all. (But could it happen at <code>3840 x 2160</code>? Does that make sense? I have no idea.)</p>
| What monitor to buy for the video card "Intel HD Graphics 4400"? |
<p>The damaged switch is known as a single pole single throw rocker switch, also SPST rocker switch. The only critical aspect of this switch is the size of the opening. Conveniently, you have the opening at hand and take measurements to match the resource you choose. Amazon and eBay will have this item, although my search on Amazon produced less rectangular shaped switches. eBay search results abound with more appropriate looking shapes of varying sizes. Small, medium and large.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rocker-switches/rocker-switches-8/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">McMaster-Carr</a> is another source. Note that the options are for NO and NC, normally open and normally closed. You'd want NO which means the switch is off unless activated. Steer away from M marked switches, which means Momentary, requiring that the switch be held in order for it to be on.</p>
<p>The connector on the switch can be found locally, specifically at an auto parts supply store. Bring the new switch with you to ensure you get the right size connector and splice a pair on the existing pigtail. Polarity/position doesn't matter for this sort of installation.</p>
<p>A switch should not fail in the manner shown. This implies that the current capacity was under-valued or there is a problem with the device causing more current to be drawn than expected. Your replacement switch may experience the same problem. It is advised to monitor the switch for high temperature at the connectors immediately after installation and periodically after.</p>
| 17824 | 2023-04-22T14:05:23.697 | |motherboard|switch|video-camera|ip-camera| | <p>Our CCTV server has been down for days and the reason seems quite obvious: the switch to start/stop it has melt.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzF5Q.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzF5Q.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
Hopefully the motherboard is OK.
So we are looking for a complete kit to replace the switch:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mPT7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mPT7.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
The contact looks quite basic with I guess the switch connecting the two pins:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8NzEz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8NzEz.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
The name of the components would be a good start, or references to buy quickly perfect.</p>
| Which kit to replace a basic toggle switch |
<p>I can't guarantee 100% reliability but you could use <a href="https://nascompares.com/answer/list-of-wd-cmr-and-smr-hard-drives-hdd/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://nascompares.com/answer/list-of-wd-cmr-and-smr-hard-drives-hdd/</a>. I've looked up my drives and they're all correctly reported as CMR.</p>
<p>A while back, when customers had bad experience with server drives that were SMR in disguise, WD ended up issuing a semi apology with an explanation of their Red drive strategy: <a href="https://blog.westerndigital.com/wd-red-nas-drives/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://blog.westerndigital.com/wd-red-nas-drives/</a></p>
<p>For the past 5 years, I've been buying dozens of drives ranging from 8 to 20TB, all from their Elements brand (most of the time, it's a WD Purple inside the case) and so far, so good. When I found their blog post in 2020, I took it as a good rule of thumb that 8TB and above == CMR, no matter the "color". I've applied this logic since then and so far, not one SMR drive in the bunch. Quite a few Helium filled drives though.</p>
<p>But if you're less confident with this logic, it doesn't hurt to double check with the first link.</p>
| 17828 | 2023-04-24T07:53:05.603 | |hard-disk| | <p>I recently bought a batch of 6 "WD elements" external HDDs and quickly found out that - for three of them - the write performance was precipitously degradating. Circumstantial evidence points to shingled (SMR) technology: format followed by trim restores acceptable writing speed, again degrading when used space goes above 50%.</p>
<p>These disks (used for backup) need replacing, and I am of course going to avoid SMR like the plague, but how? Transparency in labeling does not appear to be WD's forte, and I am wondering how to tell SMRs apart from non-SMR, i.e. brands and telltale labels I should look for.</p>
<p>Ideas? TIA</p>
| How to avoid SMR HDDs |
<p>It's a port for the Nokia <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=Nokia+Connectivity+Cable+ca-50&" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>CA-50</strong></a> USB data connectivity cable. Used by phone models 1200, 2600, 2650, 2680, 2760, 1650.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oaRKC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oaRKC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 17844 | 2023-05-01T14:18:26.540 | |mobile-phone| | <p>It's an old 2007 <a href="https://www.gsmarena.com/nokia_2760-1975.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>Nokia 2760 flip phone</strong></a>.</p>
<p>What port is this? I have searched everywhere but can't find any info. If this is a USB port, what USB plug it receives, or if something else…?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMHWN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMHWN.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The official manual simply ignores that port</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFAe5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFAe5.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| Identify port on old Nokia flip phone |