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2022-11-01T11:22:36.663 | |creality-ender-3|firmware|bltouch| | <p>I bought motherboard version 4.2.7 and had BLTouch version 3.1</p>
<p>Printer version is probably Creality Ender 3 Pro (although I don't know how it can matter if I got brand new motherboard from Amazon).</p>
<p>On <a href="https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">firmwares page</a> I dont see appropriate BLTouch verions. May be I need no firmware upgrade? How to know?</p>
| 20159 | How to determine correct firmware for Creality MB and BLTouch? | <p>You linked to the incorrect directory, if your printer is a Creality Ender 3 Pro, the correct location is <a href="https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3-pro/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, here you can find versions of the firmware for your printer type and controller board.</p>
<p>Depending on the version of the touch sensor, you either have or have not got an adapter board. If you have an adaptor board you have the components in the red rectangles:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffde6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffde6.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>If so you need this firmware file: <a href="https://secureservercdn.net/166.62.109.7/i6h.45f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/4.2.7V-Ender-3-Pro-32bit-Mainboard-Marlin2.0.1-V1.3.1-BLTouch-TMC2225.rar" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ender-3 Pro-4.2.7-TMC2225, Marlin2.0.1-BLTouch-V1.3.1(with adapter board)</a>, otherwise you need this firmware file: <a href="https://secureservercdn.net/166.62.109.7/i6h.45f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Ender-3-Pro-4.2.7-Marlin2.0.1-V1.1.2-BLTouch-TMC2225.rar" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ender-3 Pro- 4.2.7-TMC2225, Marlin2.0.1-BLTouch-V1.1.2(without adapter board)</a>.</p>
<p>An alternative is to build your own firmware, you then no longer are bound to pre-compiled files from others, the Marlin configuration file for the Ender 3 Pro is found near the Marlin sources, see <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro/CrealityV427" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>, you probably only need to enable the BLTouch in the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/config/examples/Creality/Ender-3%20Pro/CrealityV427/Configuration.h#L1345" rel="nofollow noreferrer">configuration file</a>. There are even more solutions, you can look into TH3D software or many other forks from Marlin on GitHub.</p>
|
2022-11-02T14:03:07.623 | |print-material|petg|material|knowledgebase|print-strength| | <p>How much weaker does a PETG part become when it absorbs as much moisture as it can hold?</p>
| 20166 | How much weaker does PETG become when it absorbs as much moisture as it can hold? | <p>To my knowledge, there is no reason to expect a printed PETG object to become weaker by virtue of absorbing moisture. Unless you keep it in a controlled environment with desiccant or unless it's solid (100% infill) and so thick that it's hard for moisture to migrate deep into the interior, the printed object will rapidly reach an equilibrium with a certain moisture content. It's not something that happens slowly over a long time of exposure to excess moisture. Even an air conditioned indoor environment with 45-50% relative humidity has plenty for it to absorb.</p>
<p>Where moisture affects the part strength is when it's present in the filament you're trying to print. This is because:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Water has both an incredibly high specific heat and an even more extreme phase transition energy for the transition from liquid to vapor. This means a lot of your hotend's heat will be spent boiling off the water rather than getting the plastic sufficiently melted to flow well and bond to itself. This can largely be compensated for by increasing the temperature 15-30 °C. However...</p>
</li>
<li><p>When the water trapped in the filament boils, it produces bubbles. These either remain inside the extruded lines, making them less than solid, or they burst out, making holes in the extrusion. And while more temperature makes the melting issue above mostly go away, more temperature increases the violence of the bubbling and the corresponding damage to the print's integrity.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Neither of these is a concern with moisture absorbed into the part after printing.</p>
|
2022-11-09T14:43:21.747 | |openscad| | <p>I have created a Mengersponge in OpenScad which is a 3D object. I wanted to get an SVG export from it for the laser cutter but I receive this error:"Current top level object is not a 2D object." How do I select each side of this sponge to export it as SVG for laser cutting?</p>
<p>Code:</p>
<pre><code>module MengerSponge(side = 270, order =3){
difference(){
cube([side,side,side],center=true);
MengerSponge_aux1(side, order);
}
}
module MengerSponge_aux1(side, order){
rotations=[
[90,0,0],
[0,90,0],
[0,0,90],
];
for(rotation=rotations){
rotate(rotation)
MengerSponge_aux2(side, order);
}
}
module MengerSponge_aux2(side, order){
if(order>0){
translate([0,-(side-(side/pow(3,order-1)))/2,0])
for(i=[0:pow(3,order-1)-1]){
translate([0,(side/pow(3,order-1))*i,0])
translate([-(side-(side/pow(3,order-1)))/2,0,0])
for(i=[0:pow(3,order-1)-1]){
translate([(side/pow(3,order-1))*i,0,0])
cube([(side/pow(3,order)),(side/pow(3,order)),side+1],center=true);
}
}
MengerSponge_aux2(side, order-1);
}
else{
echo("Fail");
}
}
side=270;
order=3;
MengerSponge(side, order);
<span class="math-container">```</span>
</code></pre>
| 20194 | OpenSCAD ERROR: Current top level object is not a 2D object | <p>Use the projection() feature of OpenSCAD to effectively generate a plane cut. Position the cube structure in such a manner that the x/y plane intersects the desired shape to be exported. Rendering the code will then generate a 2D image. Previewing the code will generate a 1 mm thick 3D model which will "flatten" when rendered.</p>
<p>For the image below, I did not translate the cube, merely placed the cube generation within the projection feature.</p>
<pre><code>projection(){
MengerSponge(side, order);
}
</code></pre>
<p>This rendering will export to SVG as desired. Different positioning of the cube (rotate, translate) will create different patterns.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSCtv.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSCtv.png" alt="projection of cube" /></a></p>
|
2022-11-11T08:44:04.783 | |fusion360|rapid-prototyping| | <p>Does anyone know of a method, app, technique to "dumb down", if you will, larger models to do a quick initial print to check that it fits the real world proof of concept that it was designed for.</p>
<p>I am not talking about 0.3 mm draft printing, I already do that... But is there a way or method, to kind of "skeleton" the large print, print it in let's say, 25 % of the actual time to test its physical application. Scaling down works, in some situations, but I would prefer a 100 % model, just "simplified / skeleton'ized", still with the correct dimensions.</p>
<p>I primarily use Fusion360 for designs.</p>
| 20201 | Convert model to "skeleton / prototype" model for quick real world "Proof of Concept" | <p>There are techniques to remove material from an exiting model to create less dense models (like in a skeleton). One such a technique is applying Voronoi tessellation (also known as a Voronoi decomposition, a Voronoi partition, or a Dirichlet tessellation), basically the model is broken up in polyhedrons of which the ribs are kept with a certain thickness and smoothed. See e.g. the following example from <a href="https://www.voronator.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.voronator.com/</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SE4th.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SE4th.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>You can modify files yourself or use an <a href="https://www.voronator.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">online application</a> to do that for you.</p>
<p>However, you may create skeleton like models, but it is not always faster to print these models; they may have less material, but retraction may cause the printing time to be actually longer than printing the original at low density infill.</p>
|
2022-11-18T18:00:46.553 | |ultimaker-cura|pla|adhesion| | <p>I've just bought my first 3D printer, and I've started playing with it. But apparently, I have the problem that the raft won't stick. I mean, it sticks, for iteration (layer) or two, and after that it just disconnects. This is what I've checked until now:</p>
<ul>
<li>Bed is leveled properly, including Z, tried different variation of offsets</li>
<li>Temperature of both bed and nozzle are okay (70 and 210 °C, it is PLA filament)</li>
<li>Received slightly better results with adhesive for 3D printers, but still not ideal</li>
</ul>
<p>Now, I've came up to the idea: I would like to try to interconnect each line in one layer (iteration) with thicker dot of melted filament for better adhesion. Unfortunately, I don't know how to setup this parameter in slicing software (Cura). Does anyone eventually know where I can find this parameter in Cura? In addition, here it is the extract of the GCODE:</p>
<pre><code>;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:8750
;Filament used: 3.97836m
;Layer height: 0.15
;MINX:45.401
;MINY:52.901
;MINZ:0.36
;MAXX:154.6
;MAXY:147.099
;MAXZ:31.035
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.2.1
M140 S45
M105
M190 S45
M104 S210
M105
M109 S210
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E3
G92 E0
G92 E0
G92 E0
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:199
;LAYER:-7
M107
G0 F7200 X49.177 Y57.705 Z0.36
;TYPE:SUPPORT-INTERFACE
G1 F1500 E0
G1 F1350 X48.447 Y58.574 E0.05124
G1 X47.809 Y59.466 E0.10075
G1 X47.23 Y60.43 E0.15151
G1 X46.778 Y61.31 E0.19618
...
;TIME_ELAPSED:8750.646320
G1 F1500 E835.92386
M140 S0
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
;SETTING_3 {"global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefi
;SETTING_3 nition = custom\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_ty
;SETTING_3 pe = fast\\nsetting_version = 20\\n\\n[values]\\nadhesion_type = raft
;SETTING_3 \\nmaterial_bed_temperature = 45.0\\n\\n", "extruder_quality": ["[gen
;SETTING_3 eral]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Normal #2\\ndefinition = custom\\n\\n[me
;SETTING_3 tadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = fast\\nsetting_vers
;SETTING_3 ion = 20\\nposition = 0\\n\\n[values]\\ncool_fan_enabled = False\\nin
;SETTING_3 fill_pattern = grid\\ninfill_sparse_density = 80\\nmaterial_print_tem
;SETTING_3 perature = 210.0\\nretraction_hop_enabled = True\\nspeed_print = 60.0
;SETTING_3 \\n\\n"]}
</code></pre>
| 20226 | Stronger connection (thicker point) between two lines | <p>After some "experimenting", I've managed to resolve the problem. There were several contributors to the problem I had:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>I had to replace the slicing software; My printer did not accept G-code from Cura perfectly, even after a detailed configuration of Cura, according to my printer specs. Instead, I've downloaded and used OEM slicing software (in this case Voxelab)</p>
</li>
<li><p>Printing speed was too high; With printing speed reduced from 60 mm/s to 40 mm/s situation significantly improved. Apparently, the extruder could not keep up with filament delivery at higher speeds</p>
</li>
<li><p>Increased PLA temperature to 230 °C.; This also partially resolved the filament distribution problem. Bed temperature remained at 60 °C, with quite good success (I've used adhesive as well)</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
2022-11-20T14:33:59.757 | |3d-design|support-structures|fusion360| | <p>When designing for 3d FDM printing, I'm wondering what is best practice for items with large overhangs which cannot have (or would be fairly impractical) support structures. Consider my following design:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfmyd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfmyd.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This item is about 7" long, and you'll notice the narrow slot running through the middle of it. The slot is 0.100" wide.</p>
<p>I was about to print this when I suddenly realized printing it would be a problem. So I started messing around with painting on supports, but since something slides in this slot, I would have to do some extensive cleanup to make sure it's smooth.</p>
<p>What I ended up doing was splitting the body at the start of the overhang, and placing some alignment pins in the body (with corresponding holes in the upper portion of the body. e.g.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypGmc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ypGmc.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I will print the top and bottom separately and glue them together.</p>
<p>My question is whether this is my only option or if I'm missing something in the design process which might work better? This design is in Fusion360, in case that matters when discussing some specific tools that are available which I'm unaware of.</p>
| 20230 | Design Considerations for Large Overhangs | <p>While slicing into slabs and the use of alignment pins is a perfectly viable solution, including the alignment features organically into a single print can make assembly faster. In this case, the model itself acts as an alignment feature or might even act as the clamp, at the cost of creating a more complex cut. An additional benefit of a more complex cut is the elimination of separate alignment pins and getting the glue surfaces away from parts that need a critical dimension</p>
<p>As an example, I used an approximation of your model and shifted the cut layer around some (more complex) to get a natural left-right alignment feature from the deep cut, and then added a high "peak" on the model to act as a front-back alignment feature. The yellow faces ensure alignment in this case, and the red faces are main glue faces.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMlwx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMlwx.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Also, keep in mind point orientation can alter things <em>a lot</em>: printing on the "back" as we both modeled, the slot needs support. However, there is an orientation that remove the need to support the slot's top and instead only requires support in the pocket, possibly eliminating the need for a two-part print at the cost of needing to remove the support in the area marked red, but which, as a pocket without undercuts, should be decently easy:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TT8nE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TT8nE.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2022-11-20T17:18:53.757 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|calibration|direct-drive| | <p>I have an Ender 3 Pro with the direct drive upgrade, aluminum extruder (The same problem happened with the plastic one), double-sided bed default black on one side and PEI on the other (Happens with both), aluminum adjustment knobs for bed with better springs, and upgraded spool holder with ball bearings.</p>
<p>Things I have done to try to fix this:</p>
<ul>
<li>Add aluminum extruder</li>
<li>Upgraded spool holder with ball bearings</li>
<li>Calibrated my E-steps</li>
<li>Upgraded firmware</li>
<li>Stopped using OctoPi</li>
<li>Switched build surface (The only one that I could try that I have on hand is glass but that didn't work the last time I tried it)</li>
<li>Tightened belts</li>
<li>Printed calibration cube</li>
<li>Printed temp tower</li>
<li>Printed retraction tower</li>
<li>Printed retraction speed tower</li>
<li>Looked up YouTube videos</li>
<li>Cleaned motherboard (There was dust in there)</li>
</ul>
<p>Those all failed and I have no idea what this is or how to get rid of it, please help.</p>
<p>Settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>Layer height: 0.2 mm (I haven't tried a different layer height)</li>
<li>Print speed: 40 mm/s (I have tried slower/faster)</li>
<li>Nozzle temperature: 195 °C (I have tried higher)</li>
<li>Infill density: 15 % pattern: cubic (I have tried different infill patterns and density)</li>
<li>Cooling: 100 %</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm afraid there is literally nothing else I could possibly do at this point except replace/tune mechanical parts, which I have tried.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lh0wA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a calibration cube with irregularities on the surfaces"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lh0wA.jpg" alt="Photo of a calibration cube with irregularities on the surfaces" title="Photo of a calibration cube with irregularities on the surfaces" /></a></p>
| 20233 | Ender 3 Pro Direct Drive weird/small blobs? | <p>I bought a TL smoother which fixed the problem!</p>
|
2022-11-24T19:20:51.553 | |prusa-i3| | <p>Please reference the following page on Thingiverse:
<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5600770" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5600770</a></p>
<p>This is an insert for a bandsaw (the replaceable part that the blade passes through in the middle of the bandsaw's table), with holes to allow for dust to fall down and also be pulled down by airflow from a shop vacuum or dust collector.</p>
<p>I am modeling my own version of this with my specific dimensions, but I thought I'd ask if it would be easier for the 3d printer to do round holes instead of the hexagonal ones.</p>
<p>(For reference, the printer that I have access to is a Prusa i3 MK3S+, with a 0.4 mm nozzle).</p>
<p>Edit: The fluidity of movement being better for circles is what I was expecting. When doing a circle, each small segment of straight line is only slightly different than the previous one, whereas the hexagonal hole would require abrupt changes. In my case, the final appearance is not critical since it's just to let dust fall through. The version with circular holes might be a bit stronger as it removes a bit less material. I used OpenSCAD to create the model, since my geometry is pretty straightforward. I was starting to mess around with FreeCAD (out of curiosity) but then I remembered that in OpenSCAD I used the trick of 'facet numbers = 6' to get the hexagons, so I just changed those to 60 (thank goodness for being able to define and use variables) to have the same placement of holes.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwYFI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwYFI.png" alt="Pic of both versions side by side" /></a></p>
<p>The printer isn't mine, it's in a public library and I don't want to abuse it so I will only print the one with circular holes.</p>
| 20245 | Vertical holes: round vs hexagonal | <p>The g-code that drives a 3D printer, with some exceptions, converts circles to multiple segments of straight lines, very short straight lines. There is going to be a greater amount of math to be performed on many circles, while one could consider that if the hexagonal segments are sliced in a suitable manner, the result is going to be more linear, with lower demands in the mathematics aspect.</p>
<p>That's one aspect of the difference. Another aspect is the fluidity of movement. You may get a smoother extrusion with the circles as the travel distance versus speed is going to be more uniform in creating a circle, while creating a hexagon will result in a speed change at the corner.</p>
<p>It's only one person's opinion, but I feel that it's half of one, six dozen of the other. You get a trade-off from the processing load with a hexagon, but you might get a better appearance with the circles.</p>
<p>If you are creating your own design (good!), would it be more difficult to create one of each? What program are you using to create this work?</p>
|
2022-11-28T02:04:34.673 | |filament|filament-choice| | <p>I'm a student artist trying to use 3D printing in my practice a bit. I'm working with liquid light, which is essentially a photosensitive liquid that you can apply to surfaces and later develop in the darkroom. I'm hoping to do this on 3D models that I print and was looking for advice on a good filament to print with that would absorb the liquid light. The manufacturer of the liquid recommends using a semi-gloss or glossy clear polyurethane to treat nonabsorbent surfaces, but I was hoping to avoid this. Anything would be appreciated and helpful!</p>
| 20258 | 3D printing filament that can absorb photosensitive liquid | <p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/fuzzy-skin_246186" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PrusaSlicer</a> (free, multi-platform) supports a feature known as fuzzy skin. Text below from linked page. Additionally, Cura slicer and Super Slicer also support this feature.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The Fuzzy skin feature lets you create a rough fiber-like texture on
the sides of your models. If enabled, the perimeter will be resampled
with a random step size and each new sample point will be shifted
inside or outside of the perimeter by a random length limited by the
Fuzzy skin thickness. This simple algorithm produces surprisingly nice
results suitable for tool handles or just to give the print surface a
new interesting look or to hide print imprecisions. You can also use
modifiers to apply fuzzy skin only to a portion of your model.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This would result in a roughened surface, if the right parameters were used, allowing surface tension to secure itself while the "outward" or fuzzy portion might prevent shearing or peeling.</p>
|
2022-11-28T15:48:48.973 | |resin|elegoo-mars| | <p>I have an Elegoo Mars.</p>
<p>I have printed a figure in Resin, but after some months I found this - the figure is as if it is not completely cured. The base is open (see picture below). it wasn't open before!</p>
<p>It was printed a month ago, I am not precisely sure. I think I only machine cured and sunlight.</p>
<p>How is this possible?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4bBJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Base of 3D print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4bBJ.jpg" alt="Base of 3D print" title="Base of 3D print" /></a></p>
| 20263 | Old printed object deformed over time | <p>You should probably cure more, but curing should not be complete during print, or the layer will not stick properly.</p>
<p>Also, when you cure with UV light or the sun after the print is completed, you can cure only up to a certain depth, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13660/can-uv-cure-inside-opaque-or-more-massive-printed-object">likely around a couple of millimetres</a>.</p>
<p>If your object was massive and you didn't "hollow it" then some resin got trapped inside it and it didn't cure properly initially. It may slowly cure later, but by the time the object cracks due to stress, some resin may still be liquid enough to cause the issue.</p>
|
2022-11-30T13:11:23.057 | |slicing|resin| | <p>I would like to print an object on an Elegoo Mars 3, object which is generated layer by layer via other means.</p>
<p>So as input I have a series of BMP or PNG black and white images, one for layer, and I need to somehow assemble them to obtain a CTB printable file.</p>
<p>The solution can either involve generating a 3D model to be loaded in Chitubox, or it can involve generating directly a CTB file.</p>
<p>How can do that?</p>
| 20272 | How to generate a file for resin printing from layer by layer images? | <p>You can do this with the open-source tool <a href="https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools" rel="nofollow noreferrer">UVtools</a>. I don't know if there is a built-in method but you can certainly achieve it by writing a short script.</p>
<p>If you don't find the option in the menu, you can ask in the <a href="https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/discussions" rel="nofollow noreferrer">forum</a>. Tiago, the father of UVTools, is a very kind and knowledgeable person.</p>
|
2022-12-02T16:33:17.783 | |hotend| | <p>I replaced my hotend's thoat and I made a mistake I hope it's not fatal for the new install. After reassembling the hotend I left a marging of about 5mm of the throat out of the heatsink. I noticed something was off when leveling the bed and then confirmed it after seeing more underextrusion artifacts than expected on a test print. I fixed it but now I'm worried about the debris left by the pocket made when I missed the throat depth (see pic below)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAKKD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MAKKD.png" alt="throat misinstall" /></a></p>
<p>The material used was PLA so that'll be most of the debris I guess. Is it that bad? I'm printing a second benchy right now which looks OK, but I'm worried about possible clogging in the future. This is an all-metal thoat, by the way</p>
| 20277 | Missed hotend's thoat depth during install, is it too bad? | <p>It’s probably fine.</p>
<p>If you have it tightened down all the way now, you’ve squished most of the plastic out. You might burn up some plastic if your block gets too hot, but you could easily do that anyway. You might also have some issues with cold pulling and cold-ish unloading, but I wouldn’t expect it.</p>
<p>If you’re worried, your only recourse is to remove the nozzle and clean it out, probably while hot. Q-tips work fairly well for that. Unless you’re doing something fancier than PLA though, I think you’ll be fine.</p>
|
2022-12-06T02:07:30.243 | |grounding| | <p>I bought a 12V 33.3A switching power supply for my DIY 3d printer, it looks like this:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIbIR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIbIR.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I connect all of the L, N, EGND to outlet. When I flashing firmware, I got electrical shocks several times from SD slot and screen in one hour. It is so frequent so I do not think it is static electric discharge.</p>
<p>When measuring around using AC voltage mode of multimeter, I found touching one probe and another probe connected to DC+ or DC-, it measures 3-4 volts. When I measure AC voltage between EGND and DC output, it reads around 28-30 volts. Is this why I got electric shocks? Should I connect DC- to EGND dirctly to prevent this?</p>
| 20288 | Do you ground your motherboard and screen? | <h3>TL; DR</h3>
<p>You could try, powering off and connecting the <code>V-</code> to the <code>AC Earth</code> (either with, or without, a 100 Ω resistor - although the use of resistor <em>would</em> be preferable).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBkvG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Connect AC Earth to DC V-"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBkvG.jpg" alt="Connect AC Earth to DC V-" title="Connect AC Earth to DC V-" /></a></p>
<p>Then switch the PSU on to see if:</p>
<ul>
<li><em>First</em>, the PSU doesn't short and explode (this is rather unlikely, but you never know), and;</li>
<li><em>Second</em>, the mild shocking that you experience has stopped. If it has stopped, then all well and good. If it hasn't, then power off and remove the connection (as it would seem pointless).</li>
</ul>
<p>Personally, this is what I would try... and <em>then</em> get a replacement PSU anyway, when funds allow.</p>
<hr />
<h3>Notes</h3>
<p>It's obviously a dodgy earth/ground but without seeing inside, it might be difficult to determine exactly what the issue is.</p>
<p>Some of these LED power supplies are notoriously badly fabricated and there may be a poorly soldered connection inside, loose conenction, or a faulty part.</p>
<p>It is probably easily remedied, if you know what to look for... but not so easily fixed if you don't. I've had a lot of these LED PSUs in the past and some are fixable, some not. Normally the output faisl and just the power transistors need replacing. I haven't come across one which shocks me yet, though, so I couldn't say what the issue is (likely to be), apart from a bad ground.</p>
<p>If you think you could manage it, open it and check for bad ground/earth connections. If you don't feel confident, then, seeing as they are relatively cheap so, maybe obtain another PSU from a different source/manufacturer and try that one instead.</p>
<p><strong>If you do open it up, remember to disconnect from the mains supply..!</strong></p>
<p>To be honest, it sounds like a dodgy unit, but... As a sanity check: Does the wall socket that you are plugging into actually have an Earth connection. I have a rented flat (in SE Asia), that has "three-hole" wall sockets, but the earth isn't actually earthed, and I'm constantly getting shocks from everything. As a shoddy workaround, you <em>could</em> connect the earth to the plumbing (if you have metal pipework), to get a good earth... <strong>However, seeing as the unit is detective, then this could result in a shocking shower... so not advised!!!</strong>.</p>
<p>I can't help thinking that this <em>could be</em> quite a serious issue, and that (in the absense of a definitive answer here) maybe you should ask, or look, on <a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com">SE.Electrical Engineering</a>.</p>
<h3>Further reading</h3>
<p><a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q/589864/64015">Should I ground the DC output negative terminal to the chasis on my 12 volt project?</a>, in particular, <a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/589868/64015">this answer</a> (but <em>all of the answers</em> are both informative and worth a read).</p>
|
2022-12-06T11:09:21.350 | |marlin|ramps-1.4|electronics|print-fan| | <p>I recently picked up a second hand/defective 'Renkforce RF100' printer. A pretty obscure German brand. The problem with it was: broken hotend fan cable which caused clogging that the previous user was unable to fix. I have thoroughly cleaned the hotend, rewired the fan and now it works again.</p>
<p>The mainboard it used is not very well known, designated as <strong>MPX.3</strong> which seems similar to <a href="https://athorbot-dev.myshopify.com/products/hictop-3d-printer-control-board-mpx-3-reprap-arduino-compatible-mother-board" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> HICTOP brand RAMPS 1.4 board. Renkforce's documentation is very sparse. Through some digging I found a <a href="https://github.com/probonopd/RF100-Firmware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GitHub repo</a> with some customizable Marlin firmware and this diagram: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3eh6V.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3eh6V.jpg" alt="RF100 Mainboard" /></a></p>
<p>No real circuit diagram to be found for this specific Renkforce board, however. It does look similar to the <a href="https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/b/b7/MKS_BASE_PINS.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MKS Base 1.0 board</a>. As you can see, it has support for up to two extruders, a fan and a heated bed ("EEFB"). Only one extruder (E0, labeled <strong>5</strong> on the picture above) is in use on this printer.</p>
<hr />
<p>Here is where I need some advice:</p>
<p>I would like to add a part cooling fan to this printer. Right now, only the hotend fan (40 mm, 12 V 0.15 A) is connected to the 'Fan' (labeled <strong>7</strong> in the picture above) header on the board and it will run at 100 % as soon as the hotend reaches >50 °C. Now, I could of course wire the hotend and parts cooling fans together, but I would like to have separate control over the parts cooling fan, in order to only run it at specific times (e.g. ramp it up after the first few layers are printed).</p>
<p><strong>My question</strong>: Could I, for instance, just screw the parts cooling fan leads into the spare extruder terminal (E1) and re-program the firmware to let it know that that pin (D7, labeled <strong>6</strong> on the picture above) is a FAN_PIN? Which I could then ideally address/control with the G-code <code>M106</code>. In a sense I would repurpose the E1 terminal for a fan - do I need to worry about (fire) safety here? Since it's an extruder terminal? Or is that terminal "simply" a 12 V connection that I can connect to whatever? Do I need to add a MOSFET next to the terminal? Or am I overthinking this and should I use another position / pin on the board? This is really the limit of my electronics knowledge right now and safety is a primary concern. Any input is appreciated!</p>
<p>Edit for future reference: <a href="https://github.com/dok-net/RF100" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this GitHub repo</a> has a modern (at the time of writing) version of Marlin suitable for this printer.</p>
| 20292 | Repurpose extruder pin(s) for a parts cooling fan? | <blockquote>
<p>In a sense I would repurpose the E1 terminal for a fan - do I need to worry about (fire) safety here?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>No, fans do not use much power, heater cartridges do.</p>
<p>Considering the fifth stepper driver is not installed, this board is not equipped for using the E1 heater port/terminal in its current state.</p>
<p>E.g, the MOSFET for the E1 heater is not installed (E0 and the bed MOSFET are installed):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TfOL6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TfOL6.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Or is that terminal "simply" a 12 V connection that I can connect to whatever?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>No, it is a PWM controlled terminal by the microprocessor, however, the VCC and GND of the MOSFET connection holes should be connected, so will deliver 12 V.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Do I need to add a MOSFET next to the terminal?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yes, if you want the firmware to control the speed.</p>
<p>The chance that the microprocessor is connected to the MOSFET gate port is quite big. I don't think that this board has missing traces from the processor to the peripherals.</p>
<p>So, you could repurpose the pin that is dedicated to driving the E1 MOSFET, but, you should not run the fan directly from that pin. You should solder a MOSFET or add an external MOSFET module to protect the processor of over-current.</p>
<p>Changes to the firmware are simple, you need to add the correct port to the functioning of the fan, you may find some help in question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6535/controlling-more-fans-with-ramps-board">Controlling more fans with RAMPS board</a> or here <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11472/how-to-use-second-hotend-for-bed-heating">How to use second hotend for bed heating?</a> (this may be helpful to modify the sources, or ask another question).</p>
|
2022-12-08T10:12:16.377 | |filament-choice| | <p>Is it safe to give a 3D printed toy (printed using food-safe filaments) to a toddler?
Are there any recommendations/studies on what is considered safe?</p>
| 20303 | Is it safe to give 3D printed toys to a toddler? | <p>The model election is a non-trivial issue when dealing with to a toddler but also, the extruder and hotend should be 100% free of debris from any previous, non food-safe filaments, although I don´t know how plausible that may be from a procedure point of view and I don´t know if there are any regulations with thresholds on this, but it´s not like we will be making a chemical analysis of a print to verify neither, so moving on to next point</p>
<p>Depending on what you want to do (and your printer flexibility), you might as well have 2 sets of extruder/hotend/bed if your really want to go this route on a production scale: one for food-safe prints and the other for the rest of the filaments like ABS</p>
|
2022-12-13T18:27:13.623 | |print-quality|ultimaker-cura|filament|anet-a6| | <p>I've noticed there have been some strange patterns occurring in my prints lately, sort of like warping. I've attached a picture of a Benchy below and an image of a project I'm working on. But as you'll see on the Benchy, the front is messed up. Never had this issue before, it's only started occurring recently. Any ideas as to what it looks like?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoBud.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoBud.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7478V.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7478V.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUqMn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QUqMn.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0gQt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0gQt.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 20316 | Issues with my 3D prints | <p>Looks like insufficient cooling. If it only just started, your part cooling fan might be clogged with dust and debris, or have a failing bearing making it spin slow and give low flow, or might have broken fins, etc.</p>
<p>It's also possible that a difference in ambient air has made the difference. Especially if you're printing PLA on a hot bed, it's hard to get low-to-the-bed overhangs like the Benchy bow sufficiently cooled that they won't deform like this, and having the ambient temperature a few degrees higher can make the difference in not being able to.</p>
<p>If the latter is your problem, lowering the bed temperature (and finding alternatives to heat to get your part to stick) is probably your best option. Or, get better fans.</p>
|
2022-12-13T21:17:28.873 | |creality-ender-3|z-axis|extrusion| | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3XeE.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3XeE.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>While I was setting up a new Ender 3 v2, and tuning the z-steps value, I noticed that some layers were extending beyond the others in the x and y axes. I didn't notice any pattern related to which layer, or how far from the print bed, or how often they might repeat during the same print.</p>
<p>My current setup is OctoPrint running on a raspberry pi 3B, connected via USB to the recently-assembled Ender 3v2.</p>
<p>My current theory is that something related to the z-axis stepping isn't lifting the print-head. It might be that the wrong number of steps are being performed, or that the screw isn't turning along with the stepper, or that there is some kind of friction or binding keeping the x-axis beam from raising.</p>
| 20318 | How to I eliminate these "squished" layers that appear on my prints? | <p>If your nozzle is too close to the bed, there is not enough space between the nozzle and the bed to extrude the proper amount of filament. Excess filament is either squished upwards between individual printed lines or isn't extruded at all creating additional pressure in the hotend.</p>
|
2022-12-14T17:37:34.800 | |ultimaker-cura|pla|filament|dremel-3d45| | <p>This summer I bought a white PLA+ filament from <a href="https://www.amazon.it/SUNLU-Filamento-Stampante-Tangle-Bianco/dp/B07R8X76GW" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sunlu</a>.
After some trials, I found these settings in Ultimaker Cura for my Dremel 3D45:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlH5l.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlH5l.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The layer thickness is 0.2 mm.
The objects were printed almost perfectly for my needs:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K57ff.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K57ff.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Now, after 3 months, I tried to print with the same material and of course with the same parameters. Even if the infill seems quite good:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvdH0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvdH0.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>the walls are terrible:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S02RE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S02RE.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I'm using a dryer before and during the printing.
I'm lost because I cannot think what can be happened.</p>
<p>The other variable is the environment temperature in the box: this summer was about 20 °C, now it is 12-13 °C. But given the use of the dryer and given that the Dremel is closed it should not matter.</p>
<p>Could the filament be damaged?
Any other idea?</p>
| 20322 | Same parameters lead to very different results | <p>This looks like a clogged nozzle.</p>
<p>Clean your nozzle, and if you have a setup with a Bowden tube coming up to the nozzle, like an Ender 3, check that it is clean, and has good, strong contact with the nozzle.</p>
<p>The low ambient temperature is not helping, but should create warping, not a total lack of material.</p>
<p>In addition, make sure that you have a silicone sock on your heat block to protect from too much heat loss and have a more even temperature.</p>
|
2022-12-17T16:21:32.607 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>Is there a way to get rid of the (yellow) internal support, Cura is generating for overhangs?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PUEUe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PUEUe.png" alt="Top/Bottom on Overhang from top" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZD3YK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZD3YK.png" alt="Top/Bottom on Overhang from side" /></a></p>
<p>I am already printing with 3 walls, so there should be no additional benefit in this case and it is harming my print.</p>
<p>(Reason: I want to print this in silk PLA, which is very temperature sensitive. These overhangs tend to curl up, due to the additional material and heating. Adding more part cooling will hurt the layer adhesion dramatically.)</p>
| 20330 | In Cura remove Top/Bottom on overhang | <p><strong>Skin Removal Width</strong> should be the setting you are looking for.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAAdy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAAdy.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>PrusaSlicer's equivalent is <strong><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/layers-and-perimeters_1748#ensure-vertical-shell-thickness" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ensure vertical shell thickness</a></strong>.</p>
|
2022-12-18T00:11:21.240 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>My Ender 3v2 stops mid-print; every print. The head just stops moving. The nozzle and bed temperatures are still on.</p>
<p>I then can cancel and start the job but it's stopping again, even when using totally different G-code files.</p>
<p>I'm using OctoPrint and didn't change anything lately. This never happened before.</p>
<p>Any idea why this is happening?</p>
| 20333 | Ender 3v2 stops mid-print | <p>I reinstalled the firmware and also reinstalled octoprint. Since then everything seems to be printing fine.</p>
|
2022-12-21T06:54:15.640 | |troubleshooting|extruder|nozzle|dremel-3d45| | <p>My Dremel 3D45 stopped the extrusion. I removed the nozzle thinking about it was clogged. But still it didn't solve. Also the nozzle was harder to remove than usual.</p>
<p>So I removed the bottom cover and I found this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHHKD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHHKD.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/usG7k.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/usG7k.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>It seems the heater is completely burned and messed up.
Unfortunately the replacement parts are hard to find.</p>
<p><strong>I'm wondering what could have caused this damage</strong>.
I didn't run the nozzle over 220 °C (usually 195 °C) and the printer has less than 250 hours of working time.</p>
<p>It was just a defect? Or could I have prevented it?</p>
| 20355 | What could have caused this damage? | <p>As you say that the nozzle removal was harder than normal it can be concluded that it has been removed before.</p>
<p>Looking at the hotend when new,
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV4LS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV4LS.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
it evidently looks as if filament has been entrapped onto and on top of the heater block.</p>
<p>It could be that in a prior attempt to remove or replace the nozzle, the heat break has come loose or un-tightened as such that molten filament leaked on top of the heater block.</p>
<p>This hypothesis is more likely in this case than filament that has been ricochetted back from the nozzle opening back to the cavity containing the hot end (I recently experienced this latter issue on an Ultimaker destroying the core...).</p>
|
2022-12-21T11:28:12.883 | |octoprint|skr-mini-e3|serial-connection| | <p>Recently, I've installed a new BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V3.0 board on Creality Ender-5. Previously, I was using SKR mini E3 V1.2 board, but it broke down and I had to replace it. I connected new one exactly like the previous board and calibrated the printer. Everything seemed to be working properly.</p>
<p>Now, I'm getting unexpected <code>M122</code> errors while printing from OctoPrint:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRGHS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRGHS.jpg" alt="M122 error on printer's display" /></a></p>
<p>This is OctoPrint's console output:</p>
<pre><code>Recv: ok
Recv: Error:checksum mismatch, Last Line: 30869
Recv: Resend: 30870
Should resend line 30870 but no sufficient history is available, can't resend
Changing monitoring state from "Printing" to "Error"
Send: G1 X109.711 Y118.883 E.02691
Send: M112
Send: N31035 M112*37
Send: N31036 M104 T0 S0*38
Send: N31037 M140 S0*99
Changing monitoring state from "Error" to "Offline after error"
Connection closed, closing down monitor
Closing down send loop
</code></pre>
<p>This checksum mismatch error appears randomly at different stages of printing, but always around 30000 line.</p>
<hr />
<p><strong>What is my setup?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Creality Ender-5</li>
<li>Raspberry Pi 3A+</li>
<li>OctoPrint 1.8.6</li>
<li>OctoPi 0.18.0</li>
<li>SKR mini E3 V3.0 board</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/kosteklvp/Marlin-SKR-mini-E3-v3/tree/209c69f887105b52191fd1c229e103a0a27b5862/Marlin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">My custom firmware</a></li>
</ul>
<p>I customized the firmware from BIGTREETECH official repository for this board. This problem also occurs, when I upload official firmware for this board. OctoPrint is connected to the board via GPIO pins - that's how it was connected before and I have no way to connect it via USB cable.</p>
<hr />
<p><strong>What have I done to resolve this issue?</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Tried printing from SD card. This error doesn't occur, when printing from SD card.</li>
<li>Replaced cables connecting the board with Raspberry Pi.</li>
<li>Isolated all the electronics away from the printer's case.</li>
<li>Changed SD card used by OctoPrint to a new, empty one.</li>
<li>Updated OctoPrint to recent, stable version.</li>
<li>Uninstalled all unnecessary OctoPrint plugins.</li>
<li>Tried flashing official firmware.</li>
</ul>
<p>I suppose that the problem is in the connection between the printer and OctoPrint. What can cause this error to happen?</p>
| 20357 | What causes checksum mismatch error while printing from OctoPrint? | <p>According to <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#baud-rate" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin docs</a>, these checksum mismatch errors were due to the baud rate being set incorrectly.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The serial communication speed of the printer should be as fast as it can manage without generating errors. In most cases 115200 gives a good balance between speed and stability. Start with 250000 and only go lower if “line number” and “checksum” errors start to appear.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Lowering baud rate solved the problem.</p>
|
2022-12-23T16:04:02.453 | |ultimaker-cura|support-structures|prusaslicer| | <p>How to use organic supports in PrusaSlicer or Cura? I heard that it is possible, but I can’t find this option in these slicers.</p>
| 20365 | How to use organic supports in the slicer? | <p>As far as I know, PrusaSlicer organic tree support isn't available to the public yet. PrusaSlicer is rumored to use the same code as the Pull request made by Thomas Rahm on his Cura fork who started working on this code around 2020.</p>
<p>The "organic" tree support contributed by Thomas Rahm is also available in the 5.3.0-alpha+xmas Cura version in Cura, which showcases that new tree support. You can find more information in the article <a href="https://ultimaker.com/learn/cura-christmas-tree-support" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Special alpha: new (Xmas) tree supports for UltiMaker Cura</a></p>
<p>Full disclosure I'm one of the Cura developers.</p>
|
2022-12-25T00:12:52.673 | |creality-ender-3|print-failure|repair| | <p>Well, I know what my critical error was, I was in a hurry and set a print running before leaving it unattended for about 8 hours; came home to a great enormous disaster.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywdFK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a large mass of filament sticking out of a silicone sock"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywdFK.jpg" alt="Photo of a large mass of filament sticking out of a silicone sock" title="Photo of a large mass of filament sticking out of a silicone sock" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjQec.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the printer head from below showing filament and residue"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YjQec.jpg" alt="Photo of the printer head from below showing filament and residue" title="Photo of the printer head from below showing filament and residue" /></a></p>
<p>What on earth happened? Perhaps more importantly, is anything here salvageable, or do I just need to get a new printhead?</p>
| 20373 | What happened during this print disaster, and is it salvageable? | <p>I'd say you are quite lucky, the hotend (as seen in the second photo) is fairly intact!</p>
<p>I've had a similar problem recently, but in my case it destroyed an Ultimaker core module hotend, and salvage would have taken too much time.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>What happened during this print disaster</p>
</blockquote>
<p>What probably happened is that the print has become unstuck from the build plate or a part of the support is caught by the hotend blocking the deposition of filament to the print object and instead it ricocheted back against the nozzle. This is not uncommon.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>, and is it salvageable?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I'd say yes. You should be able to get the silicone sock off and clean the hotend. Heating the hotend and scraping it off seems do-able from the photo you provided, it may require some time and elbow grease.</p>
|
2022-12-28T10:04:10.580 | |ultimaker-cura|octoprint|stl| | <p>I started playing with OctoPrint and I already have it configured for external access and management, using OctoEverywhere.</p>
<p>I would like it to be an easy to use printer, because it is shared between people that don't use Cura or PrusaSlicer, so I want them to upload STL files and having a slicer built into the print server (printer is an Ender 3) for them to click a button and convert these STL files into a printable G-code. I have tried to add the printer to Cura but it says that the API connection key is invalid. Can anyone help me with this?</p>
| 20389 | How can I upload STL files to OctoPrint? | <p>The latest Octoprint web UI (as of writing, Version 1.9.3) allows for drag n' drop for file upload.</p>
<p>Slice and export locally, then drag it over to the Web UI, or use the embedded upload button.</p>
|
2022-12-30T09:44:21.947 | |3d-design|software|stl| | <p>I'm looking for a tool to modify STL files to make changes, before printing it. I know that it exists, but I don't know the name of the software.</p>
<p>For example, I have a STL file for a ball and I want to modify it to be more egg shaped by extruding or pushing. I'm looking for something like in The Sims games, where I could edit terrains just by clicking mouse and creating holes and hills.</p>
| 20399 | Tool for modifing STLs? | <p><strong>Sculpting</strong> should be the tool you are looking for.</p>
<p>You can find a lot of sculpting software on the web, including free ones. I personally use Meshmixer and Blender for simple works.</p>
|
2023-01-01T17:46:26.217 | |prusa-i3|calibration|prusaslicer|layer-shifting| | <p>I am pretty new to 3D-printing, and I have just finished assembling my Prusa i3 a few days ago.</p>
<p>I finished up basic calibrations, which went fine, but noticed my prints were coming out with a bunch of rough lines on the sides. I looked online, and saw some things about adjusting flow rate, so I took that down from 95 to 90. I am not really sure what else to try right now. I have messed with layer height, which is at 0.2 mm now.</p>
<p>I have double-checked belt tensions and messed around with it, but the belt status seems to be hovering around 267 pretty consistently. I did try loosening it a lot more, but got the around the same, ~270 at max, even when extremely loose. Not sure what the belt tension should be feeling like, but it seems to check out with the guides.</p>
<p>I would appreciate any help or advice.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYuWe.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Test print of an SD card bear holder, layer lines seem to be sticking out"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rYuWe.jpg" alt="Test print of an SD card bear holder, layer lines seem to be sticking out" title="Test print of an SD card bear holder, layer lines seem to be sticking out" /></a></p>
<p>Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c46X2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c46X2.jpg" alt="calibration cube" title="Calibration cube printed after tensioning the belts" /></a></p>
| 20403 | Prints coming out with jagged lines on the sides, rough edges | <p>It must have been something with the G-code, or how I was slicing it. I tried printing from the files that were already loaded on the SD card when I got it and it came out much better. I then modeled a cube and sliced it up carefully in PrusaSlicer and it also came out almost perfectly. Thanks to everyone who chimed in, really appreciate it and hope this can help someone else.</p>
|
2023-01-01T19:51:18.443 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|klipper|tpu| | <p>First time trying the <a href="https://www.3dprima.com/filaments/primacreator-easyprint-flex-95a-1-75mm-1-kg-red_24162_5259" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EasyPrint Flex TPU filament</a>. When printing a solid, I can see clear lines with plenty of air on both sides. This gives me the idea that it is not extruding enough filament.</p>
<p>I've tried many tweaks:</p>
<ul>
<li>Adding/removing tension to the extruder</li>
<li>Pulling at the filament to see if the gears have a good grip at it (they do).</li>
<li>Printing at ridiculously slow speeds (5 mm/s)</li>
<li>Bypassing the runout sensor, in case that is adding too much friction or something.</li>
<li>Adding flow rate in Klipper (maxes out at 200 %, slight improvement)</li>
<li>Adding flow rate in Cura to 600 %</li>
</ul>
<p>The last tweak makes the most apparent improvement. Printing at 25 mm/s, it's somewhat decent. There's still some air going through each layer, but much less. The result is still dissatisfactory.</p>
<p>As this printer uses a direct extruder there shouldn't be any problem with the feeding.</p>
<p>Can I now conclude that this is simply a crappy filament and my best bet is to buy something better? If not, then am I missing something obvious here?</p>
| 20406 | TPU on Ender 3 S1 Pro only works when flow is set to 600 % | <p>This is the <a href="https://www.creality.com/products/sprite-extruder-pro-kit" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality Sprite Extruder Pro</a>.</p>
<p>The tension is controlled by a bolt with a square-shaped nut that is pressing on the lever with a spring. To increase tension to the gears that feed the filament the adjustment bolt is turned clockwise.</p>
<p>However, you have to be very careful not to turn it too far, or the bolt will unhook from the internal nut. Turning anti-clockwise in this situation does nothing.</p>
<p>If you're lucky, like I was, it will get stuck in a position of max tension no matter what you do. If unlucky, the various parts can go into the gears and cause permanent damage.</p>
<p>It is a most unfortunate design as there is no way to tell if you turned it too far!</p>
<p>In my case, having it at max tension at all times caused it to under-extrude. Adding more flow alleviated the problem somewhat. I had to open everything up to see what was going on there. In my case, just putting the nut back on the bolt solved my problem.</p>
<p>TPU is much softer than PLA so it's more sensitive to tension. While PLA can print okay at max tension, TPU cannot.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aieth.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aieth.png" alt="Tension adjustment bolt" /></a></p>
|
2023-01-02T01:21:00.430 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling| | <p>I just finished assembling my Ender 3 Pro and am having trouble with bed leveling. The extruder doesn't even come close to the bed, the z-limit stops the nozzle about 3-4 mm away.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHT5B.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Extruder and bed gap"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHT5B.jpg" alt="Extruder and bed gap" title="Extruder and bed gap" /></a></p>
<p>The leveling springs are already pretty uncompressed. Is there any way to decrease the gap? Should I be checking for a specific assembly step to see if I assembled it incorrectly somewhere?</p>
| 20408 | Ender 3 Pro has too much space between extruder and bed | <p>Based on your picture, I can tell that the leveling springs aren't standing straight up, rather they are leaning at an angle, making it so that full extension doesn't push the platform up as high as would be possible if they were straight. I had the exact same problem. I simply took a pen and nudged all the springs to make them stand up straight, and it solved the problem.</p>
<p>I know it doesn't look like it will help much, but trust me it does.</p>
|
2023-01-05T18:46:10.763 | |3d-models|stl| | <p>Is there a convention for the scale of the 3D printing STL files that are shared online and/or expected by 3-D printers?</p>
<p>I found a model on Thingiverse that is useful for my project, a connector that must fit with other parts, so precision is important. Eyeballing, it seems that each STL unit corresponds to 1 millimeter, is this a safe/conventional assumption?</p>
| 20419 | Is there a conventional scale for 3D printing models? | <p>STL files are based on coordinates rather than individual units of measurement as they're supposed to be completely unit agnostic in order to allow them to be evenly scaled on any platform, and to not be bogged down with unit translations.</p>
<p>Typically, the units are set by whoever makes the model, and by whatever the default of the software that they use is. In most cases, creators use a one-to-one scale.</p>
<p>So, the answer to your question is that the conventional scale is "100%". Though probably isn't the answer that you're looking for.</p>
<p>If you print it at 100% it will be whatever size the creator intended it to be. For example, if you were printing a Warhammer miniature and it has a base attached to it, and you print it at 100% then that base will be 25mm wide, and the figure will be the exact height that the creator intended it to be. Whatever that height is.</p>
<p>For the purpose of your question, if the part "looks" like it was created in MM then it almost certainly was.</p>
<p>If you take that STL file and put it into your slicer, then use the default scale (100%), you can use the slicer to determine how its width or height or length in MM. Just set the scale of the model to whatever makes that dimension the same as the dimension you need it to be and the rest of the model will be scaled accordingly.</p>
<p>Your biggest problem might actually be the material that you use, as some will shrink after printing, or shrink unevenly.</p>
|
2023-01-06T04:55:10.233 | |support-structures|part-testing| | <p>This would be my first ever 3D printing
I previously worked in Sketchup to generate simple objects, mostly floor plans and various small objects mostly for visualizing and designing things.</p>
<p>I am now trying to print a dust collector (hose) adapter that would connect my vacuum to my table saw guard. I have the model already (looks like below), I have managed to get quotes from 3D printing service providers so apparently everything looks OK</p>
<p>I still have doubts regarding the stability of the object during the 3D printing.
How can I verify if everything is OK in that respect? I plan to print at our local public library which offers free printing (you pay the materials)</p>
<p>Here is my model, the OD at the base is 64.3 mm (2 17/32", the height is 288.1 mm):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8HqX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8HqX.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hGMpJfpFLHW0tBs2jVpVQWTiLIZi15Js/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> is the link to the file.</p>
<p>If it matters the local public library branch has the following 3D printers which I can use:</p>
<ul>
<li>The LulzBot TAZ,</li>
<li>The Maker Bot Replicator 2</li>
<li>The Ultimaker 2 Plus</li>
</ul>
| 20425 | How can I test if my model can be 3D printed without having a printer? | <blockquote>
<p>How can I test if my model can be 3D printed without having a printer?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Find out what printer is used and slice the print yourself using free tools like PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, Ultimaker Cura, etc..</p>
<p>From the mentioned printers, none of these allows for the tube to be printed upright, the TAZ has the largest height of 285 mm (depending on the exact version they have), your object is 288 mm...</p>
<p>e.g. One of my printer cannot take the object upright:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/prJX8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/prJX8.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This means that you are left to two options, cut the object into two pieces and design a coupling between the two pieces, or you need to modify the orientation of the object.</p>
<p>Do note that orientation of the print on the plate can do a lot to print object that sometimes do not appear to fit on the plate or in the volume.</p>
<p>E.g., you could print the tube other than upright, see below (it fits my 200x300 mm printer):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EZm87.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EZm87.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This is sliced with support, but, a smaller scaled version printed fine without support. The larger version and the shallow incline of the tube need support for the full size print.</p>
<p>Scaled version of the tube printed without supports:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIl8x.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIl8x.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I think the best solution is to break up the part into two pieces and design an appropriate coupling. This would give you 2 parts, but the printing time and the amount of support will be minimum. The less time and the less support the higher the chance the parts print in one go without failing. It is also best to print the two parts after each other, else you will have the nozzle to retract (takes time) in between the two parts if printed together.</p>
|
2023-01-06T21:44:26.463 | |3d-models| | <p>I would like to add neodymium magnets during print. The model, which I would like to print, has fully enclosed holes made for placing magnets.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lz3bj.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lz3bj.png" alt="Hole prepared for magnet placing" /></a></p>
<p>I added pause on layer (<code>M601</code>) in slicer. Since, this is a very long print, I would like to avoid any problems. I read that the magnet can attach to the nozzle while printing. How can I avoid this, and what else should I watch out for? How should I prepare in advance for magnets placing?</p>
| 20429 | How to add magnets to 3D print mid-print? | <p>I'll share some experience, I got while printing with magnets:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Firstly, check if the magnet can stick to something around the hotend, especially when using neodymium magnets. It may be necessary to replace the nozzle with a non-magnetic one.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Apply a small amount of glue before placing the magnets. The magnet should be free of metal filings that may stick to the magnet, because the glue will not stick to the magnet properly. In this situation, the magnet will not stick to the print and may frivolously move around in the hole.</p>
<p>I used a small amount of hot glue on the bottom and top of the magnet, completely surrounding it in the hole. Hot glue should be used carefully as it can deform the plastic surrounding it.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Check magnets pole orientation</strong>. This one is important, if you want to use magnets in pairs, e.g. for parts that should connect and disconnect. Magnets should either attract or repel each other, depending on the application. Before placing the magnets, check that they are correctly positioned. You can also mark the poles first with a marker.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Make sure the magnet fits in the hole. For this purpose, you can make a quick test print and check if the magnet fits correctly into the hole. This will save potential drilling in the printout and other unwanted problems.</p>
</li>
</ol>
|
2023-01-07T22:57:19.543 | |creality-ender-3|print-failure|stringing| | <p>I just got an Ender 3 Pro for Christmas and, aside from firmware, I have made no changes to it whatsoever. Until yesterday, my printer was running all prints flawlessly. The only thing that changed was the filament, but I don't think that's the issue because the problem only starts to occur at a certain Z height.</p>
<p>What I've ensured:</p>
<ul>
<li>The firmware is up to date</li>
<li>The filament is dry
the X, Y, and Z axis all have no bumps or obstructions (lead screws and belts are fine; wheels and bolts all good, etc.)</li>
<li>I have the right temperature (200 °C as printed on my PLA filament's label)</li>
<li>The filament is not tangled</li>
<li>There is no nozzle jam</li>
<li>I have retraction enabled properly in my Ultimaker Cura settings</li>
<li>The file is not corrupt (I've remade it, re-installed Ultimaker Cura, reformatted my SD card, etc.)</li>
<li>The extruder is not slipping or chewing into the filament</li>
<li>My bed is leveled</li>
</ul>
<p>What I've noticed aside from the crappy prints:</p>
<ul>
<li>There's an intermittent "thump" sound coming from the extruder, that as far as I can tell, is caused by the wheels "snapping back" suddenly sometimes.</li>
<li>The filament seems to be from a cheap Chinese brand: Sunlu.</li>
</ul>
<p>Images of a good print and a bad print. These are the same version of the same G-code file printed at the same settings on the same printer in the same conditions. (EDIT: I removed the good print images because of a logo they contained that I am trying to limit public exposure to.)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iuB2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Side view of the badly printed model"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0iuB2.jpg" alt="Side view of the badly printed model" title="Side view of the badly printed model" /></a></p>
| 20435 | My prints have started to turn to mush at a certain Z height | <p>The thump and the appearance of the print are indications of underextrusion. Tracking the source of this failure can be challenging, especially considering how many factors you've included in your question.</p>
<p>Consider to create a model of smaller or larger diameter than the existing troublesome object. Adjust the height of the model in inverse proportion to the diameter change, that is, if the diameter is smaller, increase the height.</p>
<p>For example, if the problem is heat creep in the nozzle, it can appear at a specific duration of the print. By decreasing the diameter of the object, the failure point should appear at a higher level, more or less confirming that time is a factor, pointing to heat creep.</p>
<p>Consider also to download and print a suitably configured temperature tower. This will allow you to reference the time factor again, but also allow you to expand the range of printing temperatures you can use for that specific color and manufacturer of filament.</p>
|
2023-01-09T22:18:13.170 | |creality-ender-3|motor| | <p>I haven't used my Creality Ender 3 S1 in a week. But I started it now. During <strong>auto leveling</strong> and <strong>auto-home</strong> the stepper motor for the build-plate (Y axis?) goes over the limit and a unhealthy sound is heard (the stepper pulley skips the belt).</p>
<p>All worked well last time I used the printer. I have tried to "Disable motors" and manually moved the plate, but it did not fell in "alignment", so the noise will come e.g. with "auto-home" again.</p>
<p>Is there a way I can reset this or may something be broken?</p>
<hr />
<p>I did "Control -> Reset Configuration" and tried to use "auto-home" again, but the same problem occurred. I also tried to tighten the belt for the motor that moves the build-plate, but it did not help.</p>
<p>It sounds like something is broken. In some way, it sounds like the stepper motor has the "wrong position", if that can happen. Perhaps there are some "encoder" that is broken?</p>
<p>Any suggestions on how to move on from here?</p>
<hr />
<p>To reproduce my problem:</p>
<ol>
<li>I disable the stepper motors.</li>
<li>Move the build-plate as close to the motor as possible.</li>
<li>I do "Control -> Reset Configuration" to reset the printer.</li>
<li>I do "auto-home". The end result of this is that the build-plate is centralized and the "level-pin" on the nozzle is in the center of the build plate.</li>
<li>When I do "auto-level" now, it eventually tries to move the build-plate too far away from the motor, so the pulley skips the belt and noise is heard.</li>
</ol>
<hr />
<p><strong>Auto home</strong></p>
<p>When looking at this <a href="https://youtu.be/vwIFw3IJ3cU?t=29" rel="nofollow noreferrer">video of Creality Ender 3 S1 doing auto home</a>, it <strong>moves the build-plate as close to the motor as possible</strong>, before moving the build-plate to home. This does <strong>hot</strong> happen on mine.</p>
<p>Instead, if I first put the build-plate in the center, then start the <strong>auto home</strong>. It never moves the build-plate as close to the motor as possible, it only moves the build-plate away and finally the motor pulley skips the belt.</p>
| 20444 | Y-Stepper motor pulley skips the belt | <p>When a stepper keeps on spinning and skipping the belt, it usually indicates that there is something wrong with the end stop. If it is not pressed, the stepper will rotate the length of the bed usually making the pulley skip the belt.</p>
<p>Please check your Y-end stop, you find it in the image below left of the stepper (you see the cable of the endstop, just above where the sticker is being pulled off).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlFpU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlFpU.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>You could try and press this switch the moment you auto home to see if it works. If it works, make sure the carriage hits the switch.</p>
<hr />
<p>The <em>updated question</em> explains that the bed moves in <strong>opposite direction</strong> when homing, if so, this hints to a defective end stop switch or cable (or unconnected). When the end stop is defective the firmware (when properly configured and proper switch state routing is used) the printer assumes the end stop is triggered and moves away from the end stop.</p>
|
2023-01-10T23:00:54.433 | |extruder|hotend| | <p>I know why and can understand the logic of changing E-steps for a new extruder- obviously it is related to the number of turns of the stepper.</p>
<p>What I don't understand is how the hotend could alter the E-steps so drastically.</p>
<p>For example in Marlin the default e-steps for the stock MK8 hotend on a Creality printer is 93 (which is always too low IME) but then if you have a MicroSwiss it sets the E-steps to 137.6</p>
<p>How does simply changing of the hotend (keeping the same nozzle diameter) require such a high increase in the E-steps? Can someone explain the physics of it?</p>
<p>Edit:</p>
<p>This is what I was referring to:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XO9I0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XO9I0.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Based on your advice I did some further searching and found that Microswiss makes an extruder as well. I initially assumed that it was referring to the hotend, since the most popular all-metal replacement hotend for the Ender line is the Microswiss, since it is a direct drop-in and requires no additional mount hardware.</p>
<p>If it is the Microswiss extruder that they are referring to- I find that odd that they would include only that one since there are perhaps a dozen popular extruder options for the Ender line and they don't list firmware e-step options for any of them.</p>
| 20448 | Why do we change E-steps based on the hotend? | <p>Actually we don't.</p>
<p>Under the assumption that the same extruder is used, the hot end doesn't matter. The question is unclear about the reuse of the same extruder. If there are different hot ends that have the extruder incorporated into the hot end design, the gearing solution used for these different extruders explain why the E-steps per mm are different. But, if the same (Bowden) extruder is used, you don't need to change the E-steps.</p>
<p>To explain, the E-steps per mm is a property that belongs to the extruder, not the hot end. The E-steps per mm expresses how many steps need to be send to the extruder stepper to extrude a mm of filament. This filament is pushed while it is 1.75 mm or 2.85 mm. For this reason the nozzle diameter doesn't have a part in the equation either; the slicer will calculate the amount of length to extrude a volume is needed, the firmware recalculates this extrusion length (or volume if the filament area is taken into account) and expresses this with the E-steps per mm into an amount of steps for the stepper.</p>
<p>You can <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6484/">calibrate your extruder</a> by disconnecting the hot end or unmounting the nozzle (and telling the firmware to extrude at low temperature using G-code <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudes" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M302</a>; you just need to make sure when 100 mm extrusion is requested, 100 mm is spit out. Any deviations from that can be fixed with the extrusion multiplier.</p>
<p>In the early days, when extruders didn't use dual gear filament gear solutions (which many these days do now), the filament was pushed by a single gear and used a counter bearing that pressed onto the filament with a spring like mechanism. What frequently happened with the cheaper extruder solutions is that friction in the path up to the nozzle caused some slip, so it may look like more steps per mm were needed, but in fact this was just an extruder issue.</p>
<p>Also beware of soft filament and pressure on the filament. See e.g. the following image of 2 different (blue and red) filament types or pressures on the filament sketched in the same image:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwySf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwySf.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This image shows 2 types of filament or pressures on the filament. You see that the softer filament (red) or more pressed on (resulting in the gear teeth digging deeper into the filament), has an effective radius of R2 while the harder (blue) or less pressed on has an effective diameter of R1. R2 is smaller than R1, so for the same amount of steps per mm less filament is extruded (if the gear makes one turn, the extrusion difference is <span class="math-container">$ E_{diff}= 2\times\pi\times(R_1-R_2)$</span>. Such effects should preferably be adjusted with the extrusion modifier in the slicer.</p>
|
2023-01-14T11:50:38.833 | |ultimaker-cura|slicing| | <p>I am trying to print an object with this cross section (the full object is just this mirrored):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r1cDx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Object"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r1cDx.png" alt="Object" title="Object" /></a></p>
<p>The problem is that big overhang layer. Cura slices it like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/52SrT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Bad slice"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/52SrT.jpg" alt="Bad slice" title="Bad slice" /></a></p>
<p>This is obviously going to fail. Is there any way to make Cura slice it in a spiral inwards from the outside, something like this (excuse the terrible diagram):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLUbJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Good slice"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLUbJ.png" alt="Good slice" title="Good slice" /></a></p>
| 20459 | Print overhangs from the edges in | <p>Here are your settings. The ones with the arrows are especially important. Just copy everything I've underlined with red and everything will work fine ;-)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbH8t.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbH8t.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2023-01-16T15:25:07.870 | |marlin|ultimaker-cura|extruder|z-probe| | <p>I have created my own tool changer for my 3D Printer but I'm having an issue with the Z-offset for each head.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Firmware:</strong> Marlin 2.1</li>
<li><strong>Slicer:</strong> Cura</li>
</ul>
<p>I have used the offset wizard to get the Z-offset of each head from the bed and then I tried to use the following G-code (<code>M851 Z-4.3</code>) in the Extruder Start G-Code and I have done this for each head, I can see it has changed on the screen in the configuration menu but it looks like it has had no effect as the print has already started.</p>
<p>What is the best way for me to set each offset for all my extruders?</p>
| 20463 | Z-Offset Multiple Heads on Tool Change | <p>There is a specific code to set the offset between the various tools. This G-code is called <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M218.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M218</code> - Set Hotend Offset</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvHmG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvHmG.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2023-01-17T08:25:03.470 | |troubleshooting|layer-shifting| | <p>I have recently purchased an Anycubic Kobra, and the first two prints worked out fine. On the third print, the Y-axis belt snapped, so I contacted Anycubic support and they gave me a replacement one. I did a few test owl prints, but there was major Y-axis shifting on the prints.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3i4k.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Images of two failed owl prints"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3i4k.jpg" alt="Images of two failed owl prints" title="Images of two failed owl prints" /></a></p>
<p>After I replaced the belt, I made sure that they were as tight as possible, but there was some slack, but I couldn't tighten them further. There is only shifting in the Y-axis, but it mostly only shifts in one direction (towards front).</p>
<p>What other reasons would cause a Y-axis shift like this? Is this due to incorrect belt replacement, as there was no shifting prior to the belt snap?</p>
| 20466 | Major Y-axis skipping (Anycubic Kobra) | <p>I found a solution to this layer shifting. Even though the belt was too loose, I managed to use a rubber band to tighten the belt slightly. Now to prints go off without a hitch. Thanks for your help.</p>
|
2023-01-18T00:21:41.403 | |print-quality|rafts|flashforge-adventurer-4| | <p>Suddenly, I can't seem to print anything on my Flashforge Adventurer 4. No matter what I try, the raft looks like this. I'm re-calibrated and tried all kinds of different heat/speed settings. What am I doing wrong?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/APLfW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/APLfW.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 20470 | raft balling up | <p>Thank you for all the suggestions.
My problem ended up being that the filament tube was loose (not screwed in all the way) into the extruder head. Eventually, the printer started giving me errors about irregular printhead readings and to check it. The print head was loose so I took the whole thing apart and put it back together tightly. My next print was perfect.</p>
|
2023-01-18T10:01:15.700 | |octoprint|prusaslicer|creality-cr-6| | <p>I'm using PrusaSlicer 2.5.0 and printing the sliced G-code on a Creality CR-6 SE via a USB-connected OctoPrint/OctoPi. As you can see, the slicer sets the temperature by G-code commands in two steps (final temperature is 205 °C). This seems strange to me, as the printer can go directly to the final temperature. Also, this screenshot shows the case where I'm switching filament, therefore I have to heat up the extruder and when I start printing, the hotend cools for some time, because the target temperature is way lower set by PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p>Is there a setting for configuring this in PrusaSlicer?
These are the first few lines in the G-code file:</p>
<pre><code>; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.5.0+win64 on 2023-01-18 at 12:15:56 UTC
;
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.42mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.44mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.44mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.44mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm
; support material extrusion width = 0.36mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.42mm
M201 X500 Y500 Z100 E5000 ; sets maximum accelerations, mm/sec^2
M203 X500 Y500 Z10 E60 ; sets maximum feedrates, mm / sec
M204 P500 R1000 T500 ; sets acceleration (P, T) and retract acceleration (R), mm/sec^2
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ; sets the jerk limits, mm/sec
M205 S0 T0 ; sets the minimum extruding and travel feed rate, mm/sec
M107
;TYPE:Custom
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M109 S180 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
M190 S70 ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M140 S70 ; set final bed temp
G28 ; home all axis
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000
M104 S230 ; set final nozzle temp
M109 S230 ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
; Filament gcode
</code></pre>
| 20472 | Why does Prusaslicer set the final temperature in two steps? | <p>Since the bed usually takes longer to heat than the nozzle, the nozzle is in a pre-warmup stage so that it doesn't ooze filament waiting for the bed while homing and/or finding the Z limit.</p>
<p>Once the bed is warmed up and the Z limit is reached the nozzle heats up to the final temperature and the print starts.</p>
<p>If you go to the <strong>Printer Settings</strong> tab of Prusaslicer and click on <strong>Custom G-Code</strong>, you'll see the initial temp in the <strong>Start G-Code</strong> section. Mine even says:</p>
<pre><code>M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
</code></pre>
<p>A temperature of 150 °C is low enough that the filament doesn't melt but close enough to the final temperature so that you're not waiting for a full heat cycle.</p>
|
2023-01-20T18:12:11.107 | |heated-bed|mosfet| | <p>I'm thinking about trying to use a 12 V power supply for the board and 24 V for the hotend and heatbed triggered by some MOSFETs modules like this <a href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803225973421.html?srcSns=com.google.android.apps.dynamite&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=60255381236&aff_fcid=0001f506721b4528aef462557e91191b-1674238900863-05289-_EwsNqQ5&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_EwsNqQ5&aff_platform=default&sk=_EwsNqQ5&aff_trace_key=0001f506721b4528aef462557e91191b-1674238900863-05289-_EwsNqQ5&shareId=60255381236&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=435528944a8944998033d14a64731289&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Power Expansion Board Heating Controller MOSFET High Current Load Module 25A 12V or 24V for 3D Printer Parts</a>.</p>
<p>Has something like this worked for anyone? I'm wondering if for triggering 24 V voltage the module needs also 24 V input or 12 V will do.</p>
<p>Maybe I'll start from RAMPS just to kick off, in the long run I thought about Monster8 (I wanted to check out 3-4 motors autolevelling someday) on 12 V but I have also a spare 24 V PSU but just 300W, so I wanted to try a double PSU build and 24 V only for 310x310 240-260W heated bed.</p>
<p>Note: I intend using a heated bed designed for 24 V.</p>
| 20480 | Controlling MOSFET with 12 V from board to heat bed with 24 V PSU | <p>You can certainly use a 24 V PSU for the heatbed, controlled from a 12 V board (i.e. RAMPS) - <em>assuming that the heatbed is either designed for 24 V or is of a type that accepts dual supply voltage (be sure to use the correct input)</em>.</p>
<p>You have three choices:</p>
<ul>
<li>Modify the RAMPS board, using the built in MOSFET</li>
<li>Use an external relay</li>
<li>Use an external MOSFET (as you suggest)</li>
</ul>
<h3>Modifying the RAMPS</h3>
<p><em>Assuming that you are actually using a RAMPS board</em>:</p>
<p>From <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRapWiki - RAMPS 24V</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<h3>Modifying for 24v heated bed</h3>
<p>You have to replace the 11 amp polyfuse, MF-R1100, with something else. This device is only rated for 16v. It will burn out and catch fire on 24volts. Most simply replace the polyfuse with a thick wire. Then wire in a 24v fuse with a inline fuse holder on the heated bed cables. Wire up 24 volt supply to the top two 11amp power sockets and its completed.</p>
<p>You can also use an external MOSFET with a separate 24v supply without any changes.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Thus, you can use 24 V, for just the heatbed, on a standard RAMPS board directly. However to do so, you need to modify the board and replace the fuse, as the standard fuse is only rated for 16 V <em>and</em> the current rating would be too high for a 24 V supply.</p>
<p>Just swap out the 11 amp polyfuse, MF-R1100, and replace it with a more suitably rated fuse. Alternatively, just replace the MF-R1100 with a thick wire and use an additional inline fuse holder with a 12/24 V fuse, and reduce the current rating of the fuse by half, i.e. 5 A.</p>
<p>As a 24 V heatbed will actually use less current than a 12 V heatbed, this is perfectly safe. In addition, the heatbed circuit on the RAMPS is isolated from the rest of the RAMPS control circuit, so there is no need to worry about using the two different voltages on the same board.</p>
<h3>SSR</h3>
<p>However, instead of a MOSFET, you might be better off using a relay, such as a <em>FOTEK SSR-100 DD</em> (which is a solid state relay module). Using a relay will isolate the two circuits. Nevertheless, you need to be aware that some (a lot?) of these Fostek SSRs are relabelled - that is to say that a 5 A SSR has the label replaced with one that says 10 A of 15 A, and the unscrupulous reseller bumps up the price accordingly. So, maybe choose a different brand of relay.</p>
<h3>MOSFET</h3>
<p><em>Assuming that you do not have a RAMPS board</em>:</p>
<p>Wire up an external PCB with an appropriate MOSFET. For instance, you could just use the same MOSFET as the RAMPS board uses, which is one of these three (from <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRapWiki - RAMPS 1.4</a> - <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Bill_of_Materials" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BOM</a>):</p>
<ul>
<li><p>STP55NF06L (MOSFET N-CH 60V 55A 18mΩ TO-220 @11A=+135*C )</p>
</li>
<li><p>IRLB8743PBF (MOSFET N-CH 30V 78A 3.2mΩ TO-220 @11A=+24*C)</p>
</li>
<li><p>IRLB3034PBF (MOSFET N-CH 40V 195A 1.7mΩ TO-220 @11A=+13*C)</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>From <a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,522120,522251#msg-522251" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Re: best ramps 1.4 headbed mosfet upgrade</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>IRLB8743pbf and IRLB3034pbf are good choices. IRF3205 and P55NF06 are bad choices, because they don't have guaranteed performance at 4.5V gate drive.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>See also <a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,835614" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS 1.4 and external mosfets</a>.</p>
|
2023-01-20T22:26:56.053 | |3d-design| | <p>I'm building a product which requires a dowel pin inserted into a plastic piece. I'm planning to 3D print the plastic piece with nylon (must be nylon for biocompatibility), but the tolerances won't be sufficient to ensure a consistent press-fit for the pin. To get around this, I plan to undersize the hole, and then ream it out with a reamer on the drill press. There will be 1000 pieces on this run. Any flaws you can see with this design?</p>
| 20483 | Inserting steel dowel pin into hole with interference fit | <p>It is not possible to insert a steel dowel into a hole of a plastic workpiece with a press fit: at least not for long. Tremendous force is exerted on the plastic by the steel, and the plastic will soon begin to deform in a process called cold flow or creep.</p>
|
2023-01-22T00:51:47.217 | |marlin|homing|endstop|bug| | <p>I'm experiencing an issue with the auto homing where the Z-axis will ignore the endstop when I use the auto home button in Pronterface. Strangely, homing the axes individually I don't seem to have any issues, but when I use <code>G28</code> or home the axes sequentially I observe the Z-axis motors to continue moving the gantry down despite definitely having hit the Z-endstop. Below is a link to a video demonstrating this issue:</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/seLivJzvh0E?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>Triggering the Z-endstop manually (with my finger) the <code>M119</code> command shows "TRIGGERED". I tested, starting from a high Z position and descending towards the endstop, manually triggering the endstop (with my finger) and I observed the Z-axis motors stop.</p>
<p>I used Marlin Bugfix 2.0.9.3.x preconfigured release from BTT's GitHub corresponding to this board (BTT SKR 3 EZ), only changing things like motor direction and build area so as to correspond to the printer.</p>
<p>I am able to copy/paste the <code>configuration.h</code> file if that will help.</p>
| 20486 | Auto Homing issue (Z-axis ignores endstop but individually homing each axis there is no problem) | <p>For anyone looking I figured out what the issue was. Turns out that I had miswired the JST connectors coming from the switch to the board, having not double-checked and proceeding to connect wires to the board from the switch based on the color of the wires and my assumptions (black to ground, red to VCC, other color to signal). Actually for my switches black was VCC, red was signal, and the other color was ground. Thankfully it seems the board isn't worse for wear despite my errors in wiring previously, and now the printer is functional.</p>
|
2023-01-29T11:19:52.507 | |stringing|anycubic-vyper| | <p>I recently bought a Anycubic Vyper which prints overall not bad but has a real nasty issue with stringing.</p>
<p>I tried out several temperatures, settings for retract distances and retraction speed but nothing seems to really work. All of my filament is new and stringing occurs with different brands so it does not seem to be caused by the filament.</p>
<p>When the nozzle heats up there is molten filament coming out of the nozzle even the extruder is not doing anything at all.</p>
<p>Is there something I can try to fix the stringing apart from taking the hotend apart?</p>
<p>Retraction tower with different retract-values:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOKTl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D print showing stringing#1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOKTl.jpg" alt="3D print showing stringing" title="3D print showing stringing#1" /></a></p>
<p>Retract test which shows the stringing:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xe0Ev.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D print showing stringing#2"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xe0Ev.jpg" alt="3D print showing stringing#2" title="3D print showing stringing#2" /></a></p>
| 20510 | Stringing on Anycubic Vyper | <p>Thanks for the answers. In this special case the printer had a hardware-defect,so I had to send it back.</p>
<p>I don't know which part in detail was defect but the hotend was switched off in the middle of the print, so either the hotend or something at the mainboard.</p>
|
2023-01-29T23:14:59.240 | |openscad| | <p>Looking for a way to taper an imported STL model off toward the bottom (or top, if easier).
The same transformation would turn a straight cylinder into a cone.</p>
<p>The intent is to make a vase like the model in the image that tapers off so it will fit as an outer layer to my clay pots.</p>
<p>The model is symmetric around the XZ and YZ plane and only has positive z values.</p>
<p>I assume this would require some non-linear transformation, but I'm unable to find results when googling.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3wpDX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3wpDX.png" alt="Model" /></a></p>
| 20513 | Conical scaling in OpenSCAD or Blender | <p>To install Blender go to Blender.org and download the version for your platform.</p>
<p>No need to install just extract and run "Blender"</p>
<p>to enable importing stl files go to edit -> preferences<br>
in the addons tab search for stl, check the box.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCAxh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zCAxh.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Now import your stl:
File -> Import -> STL(.stl)(experimental)<br>
and select your file</p>
<p>You may need to zoom out quite a bit because of the scale.<br>
Do this with the mouse wheel, while the pointer is over the view where the part is. Or with View -> frame all</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUlg7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oUlg7.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>If the part is not selected (it has no orange outline) select it by clicking on it.<br>
And go into "edit mode" by hitting TAB</p>
<p>Now rotate the model so you can see the bottom plane.<br>
Hold the middle mouse button and drag.<br>
If all vertices are selected when you open the model, hit "a" twice quickly to deselect all.<br>
Select the bottom vertices by shift clicking them.<br></p>
<p>Now comes the actual conical scaling<br>
Activate "proportional editing" By hitting "o" or clicking the icon, and select linear in the drop-down menu.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXsaF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXsaF.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Scale by hitting "s" and moving the mouse but do not click yet<br>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiWJj.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hiWJj.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
Now hit "Shift z" This will constrain scaling to the xy plane.<br>
You will see a circle that indicates the region of influence of the proportional edit. Adjust it to your linking with the mouse wheel, and click to confirm. Or if you want a precise ratio type for instance 0.8 and hit enter to confirm.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kwc89.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kwc89.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>TAB to exit edit mode.<br>
Check that only your object is selected. If other objects are orange, hit "a" twice to deselect all and select your object bay clicking.<br>
And finally File -> Export -> STL<br>
Give it a different name than the original check "Selection Only" and "Export stl"
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjDQ3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mjDQ3.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2023-02-04T13:43:35.887 | |print-quality|3d-models|3d-design| | <p>I'm producing a series of brackets to allow a laser cutter to be reliably positioned on a waste board\spoil board in that has a measurement grid on it, and to allow a honeycomb bed to be reliably positioned within it in relation to the laser cutter.</p>
<p>Essentially, I'm making 4 large right angle piece with mounting screws and stepped sides. Which will be screwed down to a piece of timber so that things can be fixed to them in the same position each time they're used.</p>
<p>It has a lot of corners, and 90° angles, and it looks like it was designed by a Brutalist architect.</p>
<p>Will bevelling<sup>1)</sup> the corners for purely aesthetic reasons have any practical effect on the print or the printing process. For example will rounder corners make the print stronger or weaker, or will it make warping more or less likely. Will it improve or harm bed adhesion, will it have any substantial effect on print time or quality?</p>
<p>Version 1.0</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWPQx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mWPQx.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I'm using an Ender 5 with PLA and a 0.2 layer height. Because that's what I have on my shelf right now, and I don't want to spend any extra money on this.</p>
<hr />
<p><sup>1)</sup> <em>I'm using the word "bevel" because I'm using Blender to make the model (Because it's what I'm most familiar with), and you create rounded edges using the Bevel tool in Blender.</em></p>
| 20538 | Do bevelled corners hold any practical advantages or disadvantages over square ones for blocky functional prints? | <p>Bevel chamfer fillet, whatever. For correct semantics see the other excellent answer.</p>
<p>What are advantages of rounded (or at least, less sharp) edges and corners?</p>
<ul>
<li>In FDM, curved xy paths are stronger than sharp corners and if your printer supports acceleration, may print marginally faster.</li>
<li>Curved surfaces feel nice in general and make the part more professional looking. Sharp corners are...well...pointy and sharp.</li>
<li>Sharp corners and flat side faces can expose calibration issues with your printer that curved faces can hide, so the results look better.</li>
<li>Vertically slanted surfaces with bridged inside horizontal curves are difficult to print without good support. The inside perimeter can separate from the infill, severely degrading print quality. Sometimes replacing circles of slanted holes with pentagons or octagons helps this and improves bridging, but good support works better. This could be construed as a slicer bug, but I've yet to see a slicer that does this well.</li>
<li>For bottom layers, round corners (or just circles in general) can increase bed adhesion and reduce peel up where sharp corners make that worse. This is more of an issue with plastics with a shrink factor (like ABS) and nearly not an issue with PLA.</li>
<li>In general (and fillets in particular), rounded corners anywhere are stronger. Inside fillets reduce stress concentrations, spreading it over the whole curve instead of concentrating it at the intersection. For outside corners, a sharp corner is a target for chipping and direct impacts on the corner can transmit concentrated forces into the part where a curved surface would spread them.</li>
<li>As already stated, curved surfaces in the xy plane are stronger and higher quality with FDM, but even vertical curves can be stronger, as most slicers add extra material around them. However, if you have a buggy slicer that doesn't do this, an upper curved surface with too steep of an angle, like a sphere, may have holes and could collapse. On the other hand, a buggy slicer might not add solid layers under the corner and only have infill support under sharp vertical corners, creating a delamination risk, where a gradual curve or slant would at least have overlapping perimeters. Lower curved surfaces can have support issues.</li>
<li>Curved or beveled edges can increase passive compliance for parts that have to slide to join with other parts, making them easier to fit. However, inappropriate use of this can add unwanted gaps at the edges of joined parts, in which case a gradual taper (or just a square corner) might be better than a bevel or round.</li>
<li>Curved surfaces are harder to draw, and depending on your cad package, may require extra design planning.</li>
</ul>
|
2023-02-06T15:46:08.877 | |octoprint| | <p>I spent way too much time trying to get webcam working with Octoprint. Since my webcam is not supported by <code>mjpegstream</code> and similar streamers, I had to use <a href="https://motion-project.github.io/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Motion</a>. Finding the URL for the video stream was quite fast, but it seems no-one in the world except for the Motion's author themselves knows the URL for the stills for timelapse.</p>
<p>All the attempts in several places of the net canter around trying to connect to <code>http://octopi.local:8080/0/action/snapshot</code> which correctly produces a still jpg of the camera, places it in <code>/var/lib/motion</code> and returns a confirmation that the image was produced to web UI, with no image itself in sight. There are workarounds - python scripts, cgi for webserver, and so on. No-one seems to have found Motion's URL that would return a still jpg.</p>
| 20551 | How to set up Octoprint with Motion as camera streaming service? | <p>For camera 0, if the hostname of your Octopi is <code>octopi.local</code> the default stream URI is <code>http://octopi.local:8081/</code> (or whatever address your Octopi has). If you use a higher-number camera, use <code>8081+cam number</code> as the port.</p>
<p>The snapshot uri for camera 0 is <code>http://octopi.local:8081/0/current</code></p>
<p>If you use camera numbered higher, use whatever camera number you use in place of this <code>0</code> in the URL. It's especially tricky because literally every "special" URI of this format sits on 8080, the control port. This one is attached to the port of the first camera stream, regardless of which camera number you want.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7hYd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m7hYd.jpg" alt="screenshot of Octopi webcam settings" /></a></p>
|
2023-02-10T20:32:06.823 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>I made a successful print before this incident with my Ender 3 S1 running Klipper firmware. After that print, it started not extruding. Well, the motor started wiggling back and forth rapidly. After the prime line, it stopped completely. I thought it might be a problem with Klipper, so I switched back to stock firmware and used a different slicer too. But it is still there. I uploaded a video of it to YouTube:</p>
<p><a href="https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZLMg6NHng" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZLMg6NHng</a></p>
| 20563 | Extruder motor wiggling | <p>I replaced the cable to the extruder and the extruder motor.
Now it works fine.</p>
|
2023-02-14T01:52:43.267 | |3d-design|stl|infill|prusaslicer|cad| | <p>I use a procedural 3D animation package (SideFX Houdini) for my 3D object design. After exporting my design to STL then importing to PrusaSlicer, I manually place modifier objects to adjust the infill percent on certain areas. I'd like the ability to procedurally designate the infill percentage in certain areas in my design.</p>
<p>Is there a way to flag an object in STL/3MF/Other file format so it's interpreted as an infill adjustment modifier in PrusaSlicer?</p>
| 20575 | Define PrusaSlicer infill modifiers in STL/3MF? | <p>So worked out you can't directly do this with metadata, however you can add modifiers to objects in PrusaSlicer, and you can use external STLs as the geometry for the modifier. Then you can add an infill property to the modifier and set different parameters there.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Uuh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X4Uuh.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2023-02-14T14:21:49.730 | |ultimaker-cura|slicing|dual-nozzle| | <p>I'm playing with the QiDi Print software to compare the slicing results with mine (Dremel 3D45). One of the reasons I'm going to buy it is the printing in parallel using the two nozzles:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbFCA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbFCA.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>But I'm not able to set up the slicer correctly. As an example I set both extruders with the same PLA. I did the following steps:</p>
<ol>
<li>load the objects (two instances of the same or even two different objects)</li>
<li>select the left one and press "print with extruder 2"</li>
<li>select the right one and press "print with extruder 1"</li>
<li>in the slicer parameters window, if I try to set the extruder for build plate adhesion it is set for <em>both</em> extruders:</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlVop.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlVop.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2bJI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2bJI.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So I cannot set Extruder 1 for object printed with extruder 1 and the same for the other.
Hence I tried to select one object to enable the "per model settings". But, looking at the settings to customize, the Dual extrusion panel shows nothing:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMEIl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMEIl.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I enabled the visibility of <em>all</em> settings.
In any case, trying to slice with these settings, it add a weird wall around all the objects:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFC1o.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFC1o.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I never seen such a wall and I don't understand why is there and how to avoid it.</p>
<p>Finally, how to set up the slicer in order to print two objects in parallel?</p>
| 20577 | QiDi i-Fast print in parallel | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4RV4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4RV4.png" alt="ooze shield setting" /></a></p>
<p>The question regarding the wall is covered in the advanced settings for Additions. In the screen capture above, you can see that it is turned on. Ostensibly, it's used to scrub off the previous filament oozing as it sits idle.</p>
<p>I don't have an i-fast and cannot identify the setting you require for duplication printing. Terminology is tricky; my IDEX printer slicer calls it duplication printing and mirror printing.</p>
<p>As an aside, you should have a contact email for QIDI tech support. My experience with the email system is next-day response.</p>
|
2023-02-17T19:27:11.943 | |build-plate|cleaning|build-surface|acetone|pei| | <p>I recently got into 3D printing.</p>
<p><strong>Printer Setup</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Model: Ender-3</li>
<li>Board: 4.2.2</li>
<li>Firmware: Manufacture version of Marlin with BLTouch (Aug 2022 update)</li>
<li>Auto-level: CR-Touch</li>
<li>Bed Type: Stock --- Textured PEI or are they BuildTak ??</li>
</ul>
<p>After doing some test prints and figuring out my leveling and z-offset.
I had some print residue on the bed, where you could clearly see the first layer fails.</p>
<p>This morning, I decided to clean the print bed with acetone after reading several other forums and watching some reputable youtubers.</p>
<p>After wiping the bed down with a cloth, I know have frosting on my bed.
I found this out from some other posts, but no post on how to properly clean the frosting.</p>
<p>I've added a picture, so hopefully that helps too.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QpSD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QpSD.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Is this bed surface trashed??</p>
| 20591 | How to clean / remove frosting from build-surface | <p>Acetone should not be used for cleaning build surfaces. It attacks most plastics, probably including whatever Buildtak-clone is made of. It probably won't immediately ruin it, but it will degrade the surface texture.</p>
<p>The right agent for cleaning bed surfaces is IPA (isopropyl alcohol). If you have print material stuck to the bed texture from printing with the nozzle way too close to the bed, your best best for removing it is printing more of the same material on top of it, and hoping it adheres to the new print and pulls off with it. Not using aggressive solvents.</p>
<p>Is the bed surface ruined? Probably not <em>ruined</em>, but likely somewhat degraded. I've seen much worse though, so I'd expect it's still good for a few months of moderate use, if you take good care of it and don't keep using inappropriate cleaners or printing with the nozzle scraping the bed.</p>
|
2023-02-19T07:24:50.197 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>For the benefit of a novice friend who wants to get into 3D printing, I am following an excellent YouTube course by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@paulmcwhorter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Paul McWhorter</a>, on Fusion 360 (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4rvteV-L8s&list=PLGs0VKk2DiYwxUjGRWEgotTY8ipVvFsIp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">playlist</a>) which uses a Creality Ender-3 v2 to process the resulting designs.</p>
<p>However, the esteemed Mr McWhorter often refers to the "threaded rod" during the video that covers the assembly of the printer (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_94O7IoiY40" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fusion 360 for 3D Printing LESSON 2: Assembling the Creality Ender 3 Version 2 3D Printer</a>).</p>
<p>Is this just a slip of the tongue, or does the Ender-3 v2 actually come with a threaded rod, and <em>not</em> a lead screw?</p>
<p>Looking at the official dual Z-axis upgrade kit for the Ender-3 v2 on Amazon, <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Official-Included-Ender-3S-3D/dp/B09RX4S2MF" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality Official Ender 3 Dual Z-Axis Upgrade Kit ( 42-34 Stepper Motor Included ) for Ender-3, Ender-3S, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 3D Printer</a>, it would seem that the kit comes with a lead screw:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnafA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Lead screw in the dual Z-axis upgrade kit"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnafA.png" alt="Lead screw in the dual Z-axis upgrade kit" title="Lead screw in the dual Z-axis upgrade kit" /></a></p>
<p>Therefore it would seem logical that the base printer also comes with a lead screw. However, I've not really been able to find a clear enough image of the printer's component parts in order to ascertain whether that is true or not.</p>
<p>I don't want to recommend that my friend purchases an Ender-3 v2, only to realise that it is supplied with a threaded rod, when it arrives.</p>
<p>Can anyone, who either owns an Ender-3 v2, or who has seen one "in-the-flesh", confirm whether it comes with a lead screw?</p>
<p>Also, without wishing to broaden the scope of this question, do <em>all</em> Creality printers come with lead screws? Are there any Creality printer models that do actually come with a dreaded threaded rod (which, IMHO, should be avoided, as that would require an immediate upgrade to lead screw)?</p>
<p>Note: I'm not looking for a (shopping) recommendation, I just need a simple yes or no confirmation.</p>
| 20595 | Does the Creality Ender-3 v2 come with a threaded rod or a lead screw? | <p>The Ender 3 v2 does have a lead screw.</p>
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbmEi.jpg" width="400" alt="Photo of lead screw on Ender 3 v2" title="Photo of lead screw on Ender 3 v2">
<p>These are the main differences:</p>
<ul>
<li>Threaded rods have a single V-shaped thread</li>
<li>Lead screws have multiple trapezoidal threads</li>
</ul>
|
2023-02-19T09:44:51.160 | |filament|stringing| | <p>I just recieved a roll of eSUN black PLA+ and I have found out it has moisture damage after using it for 2 days. I was previously using a roll of eSUN orange PLA+ and it worked really well. So I ran a stringing test just to make sure the settings were right for the black roll and the result was terrible. So I spent a full day messing with slicer settings as moisture damage was last on my list for the issue since the roll was brand new. But with no improvement I decided to dry out a sample of filament just to try and this was the result.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSWzb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSWzb.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Left is filament straight from the roll, middle is dried out filament and orange as a control. So now I know the problem is this normal for eSUN filaments? Should I dry out filaments as soon as I take them out of the box? I didn't have this issue with my orange roll.</p>
| 20596 | Black eSUN PLA+ has moisture damage straight out of the box. Is this normal? | <p>Yes this is plausible. Please weight your bobin and dry it then weight it again to know how much water you extracted.</p>
|
2023-02-22T13:40:03.770 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|bed-leveling| | <p>I have a new Ender 3 S1 printer with CR Touch sensor (never had experience with auto levelling before) and I'm confused about how it works. Also, I updated the firmware to <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Professional Firmware</a>.</p>
<p>I ran a couple of tests with different approaches and printed a two-layer square the size of the bed.</p>
<ol>
<li>I do manual bed tramming using paper. Decent tolerance, all four corners of the test print have approximately the same height of ~0.45 mm</li>
<li>Then I run the tramming wizard, it touches four corners of the bed and says the back-left corner has an elevation of 0.15 mm and the front-right corner is -0.16 mm. I adjust the bed using screws until the wizard says all four corners are within ~0.03 mm and I print the same square again. The result is worse than paper levelling back-left corner is ~0.64 mm thickness and the front-right is ~0.45 mm. It even visually looks inconsistent</li>
<li>I tram the bed using paper again, print the square, and all is good. Then I built auto-leveling mesh, enabled it in starting G-code, and printed the square. Once again, the result is bad.</li>
</ol>
<p>How it could be that manual tramming does not correspond to the probe levelling? I don't think it's a mechanics issue, since both the nozzle and the probe are sitting rigidly on the same extruder.</p>
<p>Here is what the mesh looks like after nice and consistent manual tramming.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDPt3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the Ender 3 S1's display showing the Mesh Viewer for bed leveling"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDPt3.jpg" alt="Photo of the Ender 3 S1's display showing the Mesh Viewer for bed leveling" title="Photo of the Ender 3 S1's display showing the Mesh Viewer for bed leveling" /></a></p>
| 20606 | Inconsistency of manual tramming and auto tramming/auto bed levelling | null |
2023-02-23T19:03:55.567 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware| | <p>I've been getting deeper and deeper down the rabbit hole of UBL and I am losing my mind!</p>
<p>Just installed the CR Touch and I am having print issue after print issue with larger prints despite manually leveling the bed (bed adjustment not UBL manual) to the best of my ability.</p>
<ul>
<li>Ender 3 v1</li>
<li>Board: Creality 4.2.7</li>
<li>Firmware: Marlin 2.1.2</li>
<li>Firmware config: <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/5bveiho4uh21iea/Configuration.h?dl=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>configuration.h</code></a></li>
<li>Hotend: Creality Direct Drive Sprite Pro</li>
<li>UBL Sensor: CR Touch</li>
</ul>
<p>The height map clearly shows an issue - I just don't know how to fix it.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbfEP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the bed mesh"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbfEP.png" alt="Screenshot of the bed mesh" title="Screenshot of the bed mesh" /></a></p>
<p>Of note - <code>G29 P1</code> will only get through 44 of the 100 touchpoints</p>
<p>Here is the code I ran through to generate the mesh:</p>
<pre><code>G28 ; home all axes
M420 S0 ; Turning off bed leveling while probing, if firmware is set
; to restore after G28
M155 S30 ; reduce temperature reporting rate to reduce output pollution
M190 S65 ; (optional) wait for the bed to get up to temperature
G29 P1 ; automatically populate mesh with all reachable points
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values
G29 P3 ; infer the rest of the mesh values again
@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; tell the plugin to watch for reported mesh
M420 S1 V ; enabled leveling and report the new mesh
G29 S0 ; Save UBL mesh points to slot 0 (EEPROM).
G29 F 10.0 ; Set Fade Height for correction at 10.0 mm.
G29 A ; Activate the UBL System.
M500 ; save the current setup to EEPROM
M155 S3 ; reset temperature reporting
M140 S0 ; cooling down the bed
</code></pre>
| 20613 | Ender 3 CR Touch UBL Fails to Produce Viable Mesh | <p>I don't know how useful this will be for you now, but I do have a couple of tidbits of info to help others who may have this question and find yours:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>You can replace the stock screws on the Plate that carries the extruder (Carriage). The stock ones are (I believe) M5x30 mm screws, you can replace the top right and bottom (when looking at the carriage from the front) screws with M5x25 mm screws. If you put them in from the back, and use a shorter nut, you can achieve the same range of motion you normally have with the stock extruder.</p>
</li>
<li><p>If you're configuring your own firmware, in <code>Configuration_adv.h</code> in the Marlin Firmware source files, you will find a section called @section Leveling. Here, you can modify the probing margins per axis, per value. You can set both the <code>MESH_MIN</code> and <code>MESH_MAX</code> distances for both X and Y axis.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>It should look something like this:</p>
<pre><code> #if EITHER(MESH_BED_LEVELING, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
// Override the mesh area if the automatic (max) area is too large
#define MESH_MIN_X 20
#define MESH_MIN_Y 20
#define MESH_MAX_X X_MAX_POS - 48
#define MESH_MAX_Y Y_BED_SIZE - (20)
#endif
</code></pre>
|
2023-02-24T15:44:11.757 | |pla|calibration|temperature| | <p>I'm using the eSun Silk PLA and I printed a temperature tower to find out the best settings. For print speed, the default speed of 50 mm/s and 25 mm/s for walls and surfaces are used.</p>
<p>The problem is none of the temperature levels seem to be the best! As you can see from the following pictures:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sTpv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sTpv.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn73K.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hn73K.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The 195 °C step is the "less worse" but still far from good.
Are there any other parameters I should tune?</p>
<p>I have a Dremel 3D45 and I use Cura.</p>
| 20618 | PLA temperature tower failed | <p>For the most part, a well dialed-in printer should be able to print PLA just fine along that entire range of temperatures. You seem to have various other problems going on which make a temperature tower a poor place to start with tuning. Also, this test makes heavy use of bridging, which is really hard to get right because it involves things like suddenly disappearing backpressure against the extrusion, lack of surface to squish the material against, and how you deal with that. Cura has a lot of settings to tune this, but getting it right is an advanced topic, and hard even then. Judging that you have the wrong temperature because bridging had problems, when you haven't done anything to get bridging to work, doesn't make sense.</p>
<p>The catastrophic stringing at the bottom indicates to me that the filament is fairly wet. I would suggest drying it before doing anything else, because <strong>so many</strong> of the common print problems folks hit have wet filament as the root cause or at least a contributing cause, and you can waste <strong>so much</strong> time chasing other things like tuning retraction, temperatures, etc. when the problem was just water all along. Silk filaments are particularly sensitive to moisture, by the way.</p>
<p>You also have a severe ripple artifact in the surface of your print. This could be ringing from having your acceleration set too high for your printer. Probably any more than 500 is way too much for outer walls on this printer; inner and other parts could perhaps go a bit higher. But it's possible you already have acceleration plenty low and that the issue here is poor belt tensioning or a loose screw somewhere in the toolhead or motion system assembly.</p>
<p>It looks like you have some places where the material didn't stay in the right place at corners. This might indicate poor cooling, either something wrong with the fan (filled with dust, broken blade, bad bearing with too much friction) or just that the printer lacks good cooling to begin with. This would also contribute a lot to bridging not working well.</p>
|
2023-02-25T21:57:16.077 | |creality-ender-3|pla|underextrusion| | <p>Printer: Ender 3 with a metal extruder - PLA</p>
<p>After a long break from printing anything, I started printing again, but the results had obvious underextrusion issues:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JTBu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JTBu.jpg" alt="XYZ block" /></a></p>
<p>But after I tweaked temp, flow, and speed for multiple test prints, the issues disappeared - <em>even if the settings were returned to default</em>.</p>
<p>Sadly, after a couple good prints, it started having issues again.</p>
<p>Why is my printer having these issues?</p>
<p>EDIT: The cause was that I didn't install the spring in the tension arm correctly-it was not compressed enough to deliver the necessary force to grip the filament.</p>
<p>Since my printer was working fine until recently, it leads me to believe that the spring must have weakened. So new question: is that the case? And do you recommend I unscrew the arm and release the spring when I'm not using the printer to improve lifetime?</p>
| 20626 | Underextrusion Cause | <p>This is unlikely to be a settings issue. It's almost surely a physical issue with the extruder.</p>
<p>Usually on an Ender 3, this is a problem with the tension arm. The stock one is made of plastic and the arm, or mount that's holding the arm can crack.</p>
<p>It's also possible you have a weak spring tensioning it.</p>
<p>Aside from issues with the arm, the teeth of the extruder gear can get gummed up with chewed-up plastic, or worn down from printing abrasive materials, to the point they're no longer able to dig into the filament and push it effectively.</p>
|
2023-02-28T22:00:27.500 | |ultimaker-cura|g-code|corexy| | <p>I have a BLV Core XY, I'm trying to print different models, but the machine moves the center once it goes to start the process.</p>
<p>This is my G-code of the beginning:</p>
<pre><code>G21
G90
M82
M107
G28
M413 S1 ;Power-loss recovery
;M190 S60 ;bed heat on
G34 ;Auto Z Level
G29 ;Bed Levelling
G28 Z
G1 Z2 F240
G1 X2 Y10 F1200
G1 Z0.2 F240
G92 E0.0
G1 Y150 E15.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X2.3 F5000
G1 Y10 E30 F1200.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
M117 Printing...
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9isrk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9isrk.jpg" alt="one" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkJG4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dkJG4.jpg" alt="two" /></a></p>
<p>However, if I do a simple command like, to send the <code>(0,0)</code> on Z axis, it happens fine.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dekYa.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dekYa.jpg" alt="center" /></a></p>
| 20634 | How center the nozzle before start printing | <p>You have defined your bed incorrectly in the firmware.</p>
<p>First line you print is at X=2, while it is printed a couple of centimeters from the edge. Second the final cube is not in the center of the bed while it presumably is sliced in the center.</p>
<p>You should look into the definition of the bed size, the end stop offsets and the probe offsets to fix this. A detailed question and answer is found in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/">How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?</a>.</p>
|
2023-03-01T03:01:15.377 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|underextrusion| | <p>I've got one particular print which is causing me problems. I've printed other things without changing the filament or printer, so the problem is at least partially the print itself, which has a lot of supports and unconnected sections. What sorts of things can I do to fix this? I'm printing on an Ender 3 Pro and using Ultimaker Cura for slicing.</p>
<p>I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 40 °C. I use a print cooling fan at 100%. The layer height I set to 0.2 mm, the line width 0.4 mm from the 0.4 mm nozzle. I'm not positive what my print speed was set to, but I think I tried it at the default (50 mm/s infill) and then a second time slower (20-30 mm/s, probably). Regardless, the wall speed was set to half whatever the infill speed is. My retraction is 6.5 mm/off at 25 mm/s.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIHAD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIHAD.jpg" alt="half-completed spider print" /></a></p>
| 20636 | I have one print that's underextruding, what settings should I change? | <p>I have noticed issues like this to happen for me due to what I mention below. I would check each of these and attempt to further narrow down the problem. It is the nature of 3D printing with how different each print shape, machine, and filament being used are, so it is difficult to provide exact settings advice to fix an issue.</p>
<ol>
<li><p><strong>Retraction speed & distance</strong> - with the incorrect combination you can cause your printer over time to extrude less at certain layers. The problem compounds over time and becomes apparent on prints that have a lot more retraction steps than others. It is important that any time you change to a new brand or type of filament, you run certain temperature and speed test prints. There are certain models that can be downloaded online on <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a> or <a href="https://www.printables.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printables</a> websites that test for print quality based on differences of retraction speeds, temperature, overhang angle, cooling settings, etc. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@TeachingTech" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Teaching Tech</a> (YouTube link), for example, offers a very comprehensive array of tests and procedures for calibrating your printer. I suggest visiting his <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">website</a>.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Bowden tube lubrication</strong> - Something like a Capricorn™ tube offers less resistance as the filament is sliding through the tube as compared to the Bowden tube that comes with your printer. Increased friction in the Bowden tube will cause inconsistent extrusion of the filament due to impeding the acceleration and speed as the filament is moving back and forth in the tube. Furthermore, it will exhibit different resistance based on how the filament is resting within the Bowden tube while it is flexing as the print head is moving. Lubricating your filament with a little bit of olive oil every few prints will help in this regard in addition to purchasing a higher quality Bowden tube.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Extruder drive gear tension</strong> - the point where your filament is biting into the cogs of the extruder needs to be very tight. The spring on the extruder pulley clamp needs to constantly exert enough pressure for the cogs to really dig into the filament. This is important because if the bite is not good enough, it will cause inconsistent extrusion when rapid accelerations happen such as when retractions occur. It is good practice that every few prints to manually push on the pulleys together as over time the spring will degrade and become weaker.</p>
</li>
</ol>
|
2023-03-01T11:20:46.197 | |openscad| | <p>I am following the tutorial <a href="https://wiki.makerspaceleiden.nl/mediawiki/index.php/Slicing_a_3D_object_to_SVG" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slicing a 3D object to SVG</a>.</p>
<p>My code looks like so:</p>
<pre><code>import("/Users/petarivcec/Desktop/art/king of sun/1.stl");
z_min = 0;
z_max = 100;
x_max = 50;
y_max = 55;
slice = 1;
n = floor(sqrt((z_max - z_min)/slice)+1);
for(z = [-z_max:slice:z_min]) {
i = (z + z_max) / slice;
x = x_max * (i % n);
y = Y_max * floor(i / n);
translate([x,y,0]) {
projection(cut=true)
translate([0,0,z]) thing();
};
};
</code></pre>
<p>When I hit <strong>Render</strong>, then I get warnings like:</p>
<p><code>WARNING: Ignoring unknown module 'thing' in file , line 16</code></p>
<p>I guess that I just need to figure out how to run the loop on my imported stl instead of the non-existent <code>thing</code> module which exists in the example code but I'm not really sure.</p>
| 20640 | I am getting an error when trying to slice an STL object into multiple vector files | <p>According to the linked site, it appears that you are missing the "identifier" module for the item to be cut into layers, aka thing();</p>
<blockquote>
<p>module thing() // a random object, in this case a hollow sphere on top
of a hollow cube.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I suspect that if you encase your STL import in a module named thing() you will have a solution. An alternative to naming the module would be to remove the thing() call and use the import at that specific location.</p>
<p>The second sample in the linked site is a failure similar to your for the same reason.</p>
|
2023-03-02T11:56:17.853 | |extrusion|abs| | <p>I'm trying to print with ABS plastic. I've only used PLA before. I'm using Anycubic Kobra Neo (Heated, PEI-coated bed). Originally, I just changed my plastic to ABS and tried printing with manufacturer-provided profile (80/230 degrees), without changing Z-offset or any other details. However, plastic just didn't stick to the bed. Since then, I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Increasing temperatures to 90/240</li>
<li>Increasing and decreasing extrusion force</li>
<li>Increasing and decresing Z-offset</li>
<li>Performing autolevelling</li>
<li>Checking that it extrudes properly without print (using filament loading procedure)</li>
</ul>
<p>Nothing seems to help. Every time, it starts printing the "border" (not sure how it is called) more or less fine:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcPPb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcPPb.jpg" alt="Border image" /></a></p>
<p>But then it either leaves peaces of plastic on the bed, or they just stick to the extruder:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYzYI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYzYI.jpg" alt="Extruder picture" /></a></p>
<p>Are there any other steps I should check to ensure proper adhesion? I'm aware that it is recommended to use things like glue to increase adhesion when printing ABS, but I thought it is possible to print without them if the bed is heated and has PEI (or other) special coating.</p>
| 20647 | What should one do to ensure ABS sticks to bed? | <p>I use glue sticks around the footprint of what you will be printing. Never had a problem after that. Another alternative is to use some masking tape.</p>
|
2023-03-03T16:20:03.610 | |3d-models| | <p>What are some science/engineering journals on the topic of 3D printing with high impact factor? To publish a paper about the analysis of 3D models before printing them.</p>
| 20652 | Science/engineering journals with high impact factor | <p>I think this one is acceptable: <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/journal/additive-manufacturing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Additive Manufacturing</a></p>
<p>It has an <code>11.632</code> Impact Factor.</p>
<p>Also, it has the <em>preprint</em> feature mentioned <a href="https://www.elsevier.com/journals/additive-manufacturing/2214-8604/guide-for-authors" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In support of Open Science, this journal offers its authors a free
preprint posting service. Preprints provide early registration and
dissemination of your research, which facilitates early citations and
collaboration.</p>
<p>During submission to Editorial Manager, you can choose to release your
manuscript publicly as a preprint on the preprint server SSRN once it
enters peer-review with the journal. Your choice will have no effect
on the editorial process or outcome with the journal. ...</p>
<p>You will be notified via email when your preprint is posted online and
a Digital Object Identifier (DOI) is assigned. Your preprint will
remain globally available free to read whether the journal accepts or
rejects your manuscript.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2023-03-08T16:28:14.613 | |marlin|homing|axis|ender3| | <p>I have a classic Ender 3 running Marlin-2.1.1 on a BTT SKR v1.3 board with TMC 2130 drivers. Wifi is connected with ESP3D on an ESP32-CAM board connected to a TFT port. The X endstop is on the left side.</p>
<p>When I send <code>G28</code> or <code>G28 X</code>, the hotend does not home properly.
Rather the hotend just moves a little to the right side (like 3 mm) and stops.
So if I keep on sending <code>G28 X</code>, the hotend just moves little by little to the right side.</p>
<p><a href="https://files.fm/u/u4t8m3dna" rel="nofollow noreferrer">configuration files</a></p>
| 20660 | G28 X does not home the hotend | <p>This indicates that the printer thinks the endstop is already triggered and is trying to back off to untrigger it, so that it can probe. If a minimal move to the right does not untrigger it, it gives up, assuming something is wrong with the endstop. Either your endstop switch is broken or it's not connected. A disconnected endstop switch will behave identically to one that's stuck down (open circuit).</p>
|
2023-03-09T04:33:35.677 | |creality-ender-3|extruder| | <p>I've an Ender 3 and a piece broke.</p>
<p>The part that is broken is on top of the Z stepper motor that guides the filament to the extruder.</p>
<p>The metal "guide wheel" that hugs the filament as its pushed through, the plate beneath it broke. I dropped a socket wrench on it. -- it's just sitting there in the photo, but it's not doing it job.</p>
<p>Do I have to replace the whole stepper motor or can I just get the feeder thing that sits on top of the motor?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouABu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="This thing..."><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouABu.jpg" alt="This thing..." title="This thing..." /></a></p>
<p>I don't know what it's called so it's tough to search for</p>
| 20664 | Replacing (and identification) of a broken piece of the extruder | <p>Sadly this is a known-weak part on all Creality extruders of this design.</p>
<p>The tension arm is ABS plastic and will work fine for a few months, maybe a year and will then break around where the bearing is secured to the arm.</p>
<p>That equates to 5-10 kg of printing before the arm breaks. Since its a higher pressure point, gluing will not succeed.</p>
<p>Your best option is to buy a replacement tension arm, in Aluminium. There are many options on Aliexpess, though fit and finish can be a mixed bag. I had to swipe some bolts from my original extruder-motor mount because the new one was short.</p>
<p>It is telling that Creality offer a metal one and not a plastic one, but sells new printers with just plastic ones.</p>
|
2023-03-11T08:38:11.530 | |extrusion|bowden|ultimaker| | <p>I'm working on tuning an old Ultimaker 2 Go, and I'm having some weird extrusion issues. The printer uses a Bowden extruder. Extrusion seems to increase and decrease. I don't think it is the filament quality, as I am using Prusament PLA that I am storing in a dark closet inside a sealed bag with silica gel. I also did multiple cold pulls until no debris. I do notice that sometimes the filament appears to bubble. The extruding motor also sometimes slips/snaps back while changing filament, but not during prints.</p>
<p>However, I am using 1.75 mm filament while the printer is designed for 2.85 mm. In order to do this, I followed some steps I found from All3D.</p>
<p>I also have a small PVC jig to hold the filament, but I think it turns pretty well and shouldn't be the issue.</p>
<p>Filament: PLA, Temp: 215 °C, Slicer: Cura</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9mGf2.jpg" alt="1" /></p>
<p>*Update:
I calibrated the e-steps and all of the axes, but the problem still remains.</p>
<p>I also printed an XYZ cube, and there is a line right under the letters X and Y. It also appears that the extrusion is more inconsistent outside of the letters. I'm pretty sure this issue is related to the weird first-layer pattern, or this is just a cooling issue due to varying cooling %.</p>
<p>Filament: PLA, Temp: 215 °C, Slicer: PrusaSlicer</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YrlZ.jpg" alt="1" /></p>
| 20672 | Weird Pattern First Layer Extrusion | <p>It turns out that it was caused by the filament being ground at regular intervals. I solved it by lowering the printing speed (I did change the bowden tube to a 1.75 mm one though). Still working on fully tuning this printer.</p>
|
2023-03-12T04:36:50.020 | |resin|print-material|sla|print-strength|dlp| | <h1>Resin specifications</h1>
<p>There are datasheets available for SLA resin mechanical properties. Like this <a href="https://formlabs-media.formlabs.com/datasheets/1801089-TDS-ENUS-0P.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Formlabs' General Purpose Resin datasheet</a>.</p>
<p>They present mechanical properties for two cases.</p>
<h2>First case</h2>
<blockquote>
<p>Data was obtained from green parts, printed using Form 2, 100 μm, Clear settings, without additional treatments.</p>
</blockquote>
<h2>Second case</h2>
<blockquote>
<p>Data was obtained from parts printed using Form 2, 100 μm, Clear settings and post-cured with 1.25 mW/cm² of 405 nm LED light for 60 minutes at 60 °C.</p>
</blockquote>
<h1>Table</h1>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWMpk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWMpk.png" alt="Screenshot" /></a></p>
<h1>Question</h1>
<p>I need to know the mechanical properties immediately after the resin is hardened by the projected light. Would the <em>first case</em> above provide my desired info?</p>
| 20675 | Resin mechanical properties during the print process, immediately after light hardens it | <p>I contacted Formlabs at support@formlabs.com and received answers:</p>
<h3>Formlabs Services answer 1</h3>
<blockquote>
<p>The green tensile strength is valid only for layers that have finished solidifying during the 3D printing process. So in effect, as the part is being printed, each section that has solidified is in its green state where the green tensile strength applies.</p>
<p>Other that that, there is a moment in time for each scanline of a layer while it is being lased/polymerized, where the tensile strength will be something less than that green tensile strength, until the laser moves from that location and that section solidifies.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>Formlabs Services answer 2</h3>
<blockquote>
<p>We have not tested compressive strength for our materials at the moment, so we would not be able to provide any data on that specifically.</p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
<p>Regarding mass density of our standard resins, they will be 1.08, 1.13, and 1.14 [g/cm^3] in their liquid, green, and postcured states respectively.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2023-03-13T18:58:15.983 | |g-code|simplify3d|wi-fi| | <p>I recently upgraded to <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Simplify3D</a> version 5. With this version, I can now print over WiFi to my Qidi X-Pro. I run an Eero mesh network and the printer is about 6 feet from the router.</p>
<p>I tried printing a model with this version over WiFi and received the following error on the Qidi console:</p>
<pre><code>Illegal gcode in line: xxxx, P_4, T_10470103!
</code></pre>
<p>On a second attempt, I received:</p>
<pre><code>Illegal gcode in line xxxx, P_$, T10470000!
</code></pre>
<p>The same models print correctly if saved to a USB stick first and then inserted into the printer. I've been in contact with Simplify3d support, but, they can't recreate the problem.</p>
<p>Has anyone encountered this problem? Do you know of a fix?</p>
| 20681 | Illegal G-code when trying to print | <p>I ran another test. This time I used the USB device that came with the printer. The print finished without errors. I'm not sure why using a different USB device would impact the WiFi printing.</p>
<p>Note: I have some suspicions that using a quality setting of High may have actually caused the problem.</p>
|
2023-03-16T01:34:19.817 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|bigtreetech| | <p>When my Ender 3 was on the stock motherboard, I went through two BLTouch sensors. In both cases, we had the same result: sometimes, when homing with the sensor, the printer would jam the gantry down into the bed because it would miss the sensor. When leveling, it would intermittently stop before it had completed all the steps.</p>
<p>Alas, since I have a glass bed I cannot use the Z-axis limit switch for homing (without mechanical modification, anyways.)</p>
<p>I installed a BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 motherboard. Motion control works fine. In fact, it's much, much quieter. Sadly, still have lousy results (although I've only tried one sensor on this one.)</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Z Limit switch plugged in: The BLTouch Deploys. The board totally ignores the sensor (even when I shove it home with my fingers on the way down) and drives into the board.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Z Limit switch not plugged in: The BLTouch seems to deploy and stow over and over again. Then, the printer just says "STOPPED".</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Does anyone have any suggestions?</p>
<p>(I think I've been using the same wire this whole time, for what that's worth.)</p>
| 20689 | Ender 3 BLTouch not working with BigTreeTech SKR mini e3 or stock motherboard | <p>I had this same issue and fixed it by removing the z-stop cable and using the black and white (the combined 2 wires on the BLTouch). Below is a diagram that may help.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpZ1U.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NpZ1U.png" alt="BLTouch wiring to z end stop" /></a></p>
|
2023-03-17T06:40:20.603 | |diy-3d-printer|flashforge-creator|flashprint| | <p>I use "Flashprint 5" as a 3D print pre-processing software. I want to have a 0-degree raster angle for all its layers (100 % infill density), in the attached object below. But what I found is that each layer always alternates to 90 degrees. Any solution for this case?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cA0uO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Raster Angle 0 degree (above) and 90 degree (below)"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cA0uO.jpg" alt="Raster Angle 0 degree (above) and 90 degree (below)" title="Raster Angle 0 degree (above) and 90 degree (below)" /></a></p>
| 20693 | How to make constant raster angle on Flashprint 5? | <p>Looking at Flashprint expert mode, I don't seem to find options to change this.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Any solution for this case?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yes there is by using a different slicer, e.g. Ultimaker Cura. In Cura you will be able to specify the directions of the infill layers as you want them to be using the <code>Infill Line Directions</code> printing property. Default the property is empty (<code>[ ]</code>), but could be changed to <code>[90, 90]</code> or <code>[0, 0]</code> (or any other arbitrary angle).</p>
<p>Print option is found under <code>Infill</code>:<br>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FokDJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FokDJ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Layer 60:<br>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CqgJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CqgJ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<br>Layer 61:<br>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaJpw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaJpw.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>You can take this even further in Cura by specifying directions for more than 2 layers, e.g. <code>[-45, 0, 45, 90]</code> will give you an alternating pattern of 4 layers.</p>
|
2023-03-18T23:17:25.910 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|thermal-runaway| | <h2>Issue:</h2>
<p>I realized that the filament extrusion always stops at the same spot for a couple seconds then starts back, I know it's the printer and not the filament, I can see the gear literally stop for a couple seconds. The fan also stops during that time, I suspect it has caused the printer to activate it's thermal runaway protection shutdown a couple times. I have no idea what to google to fix it. Here is a picture:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4CRCb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament gap"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4CRCb.jpg" alt="Filament gap" title="Filament gap" /></a></p>
<p>As you can see it's like it stops before the curve, but to be clear, unlike all the questions I have read here, it starts back a couple seconds after.</p>
<h2>For context:</h2>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Ender S1 Pro</li>
<li>Slicer: Cura 5.2.2</li>
</ul>
<h2>Maybe related?</h2>
<p>I've had my printer for maybe 2 months, and I thought I finally had it setup, prints were consistent and never failing, then yesterday it's like every single setting fell apart at the same time.</p>
<p>The print is no longer sticking to the bed, and I constantly get a "AB Temp." shutdown. I switched the nozzle, no success. I always level it with a sheet of paper, but now I see that after the bed probe hits (as it does before every print), it causes it to raise the nozzle a couple tenth of a millimeter, which explains why it's not sticking. I fixed that by changing the Z-Index, but it's weird that it randomly changed? (by 0.3mm which is significant)</p>
<p>I have no idea how to fix the extrusion stopping randomly though, but I think when the extrusion and fan stop together, it suddenly changes the nozzle thermal properties, so its temperature shoots up, I think that's what's causing the "AB Temp." shutdown.</p>
<p>I print via USB-C so it's not a corrupt file, I have been printing this way many times, no issues. I'm stumped, thank you for your help!</p>
<h2>Update:</h2>
<p>This time I got quite far before thermal shutdown, it doesn't look random so I think the problem might be in the G-Code, at the same time, I don't get the pattern. Here are the pictures:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKX9B.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKX9B.jpg" alt="Gap on surface" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DCXj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4DCXj.jpg" alt="Gap on brim" /></a></p>
| 20704 | Printer stops extruding at same point on each pass | <p>The error you encounter is related to a partly broken wire or problem with the seating of connector plugs in their sockets. The fact that the fan also stops hints to this. You need to check all cables and connectors, especially the thermistor.</p>
<p>Such problems arise after a few months of usage.</p>
|
2023-03-20T14:33:16.890 | |diy-3d-printer|speed| | <p>Alright, a few assumptions about the printer.</p>
<ol>
<li>It can handle the momentum of the nozzle moving so fast.</li>
<li>I have good enough bed adhesion to do this.</li>
<li>The nozzle can handle the amount of filament going through it.</li>
<li>Im using PLA filament.</li>
<li>I have the thing anchored to my desk with 10 foot long 3 inch wide bolts so it wont achieve liftoff.</li>
</ol>
<p>I am somewhat interested in building this printer so that why im wondering. Would it be possible that the filament will move so fast as it exits the nozzle that is doesn't attach the the model itself, just fly off of it? Thanks for any help!</p>
| 20709 | If you had good enough motors could you print at 1000 mm/s with good quality? | <p>Yes you can print at 1000 mm/s with good quality, but motors really have nothing to do with it. The cheap motors you get on an Ender 3 can go at 1000 mm/s if you have a controller board supporting 48V power supply for the stepper drivers. In general, max motor RPM before you hit pullout (the speed at which torque rapidly falls off because you don't have enough voltage to drive a reversal of the magnetic field for the next step in time) is proportional to voltage. With 24V these motors can take you up to 500 mm/s or higher, so at 48V I'd expect to hit 1000 mm/s without much problem.</p>
<p>However, to reach 1000 mm/s, you need enough acceleration to reach that speed before you have to start slowing back down to stop or change direction. High acceleration, not high speed, is what has tradeoffs with quality, because no physical system is perfectly rigid, and under high forces (F=ma), there will be significant physical stresses on the printer frame, belts, motor shafts, bearings, etc. affecting the accuracy of your print. But fortunately, the accelerations you need to reach 1000 mm/s aren't all that high. You can reach it on 20 mm lines with just 50000 mm/s², which, although 100x the default on typical bedslingers like an Ender 3, is well within the capabilities of good CoreXY, CrossXY, or delta printers, especially with input shaping available on modern firmware. You can find plenty of videos on YouTube of the K3 (by Annex Engineering), VzBot, etc., as well as some RatRigs and Vorons, doing this kind of acceleration at pretty much perfect quality.</p>
<p>Now, the hard part of getting really high speeds is pushing and melting the plastic that fast. Fortunately, you didn't specify a layer height, so if by 1000 mm/s, you mean 1000 mm/s at 0.05 mm layer height, that's only 20 mm³/s, and doable even for a very standard hotend, and easy if it has a CHT nozzle. But if you want to do 1000 mm/s at 0.2 mm layers by 0.4 line width, that's 80 mm³/s. There are very few hotends which can achieve that kind of flow, but the Goliath by VzBot can do nearly twice that, and various hybrid volcano approaches like the Volcomosq can probably reach 60-80 mm³/s.</p>
<p>People don't make high-end gear like this to print ugly boats (well, they do that sometimes for fun, but if you're putting the effort into making it, you almost surely want it to be useful too). The printers that can print at this kind of speed absolutely do it at high quality.</p>
<p>Here's one example I just found of printing at 50k acceleration, 1500 mm/s: <div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/hcMxEkVvIdE?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
|
2023-03-22T10:08:26.133 | |prusa-i3|prusaslicer| | <p>I am new to 3D printing, and are having a problem with wall thickness in vase mode.
I would like to print this vase model: <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/60696-blossom-vase" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.printables.com/model/60696-blossom-vase</a></p>
<p>As seen in the "Makes & comments" section, people have printed the model with quite thick walls, and I would like this as well, maybe thicker.</p>
<p>I have a Prusa i3 MK3S+ printer, and are using the Prusa Slicer software. When I import the .stl model and select vase mode in print options, I cannot alter the layer height, solid layers etc. options to increase wall thickness. This means that the 3D print is almost paper thin.</p>
<p>So how can I make a print of this model, with thick walls?</p>
| 20720 | How to adjust vase mode thickness | <p>Vase mode implies a single wall, so if you need to have a thicker wall you need to set an extrusion width larger than the nozzle width (you cannot do that unlimited), but usually a 0.4 mm nozzle can print at 0.8 mm width (twice the nozzle diameter), or you could replace the nozzle for a wider nozzle, e.g. a 0.8 mm nozzle (and also print at larger diameter). Note that when using larger nozzles/diameters, the extrusion volume increases, so you need to print slower.</p>
|
2023-03-23T12:29:37.680 | |automatic-bed-leveling| | <p>My printer recently started lowering the bed an additional step for every measurement on the <code>G29</code> procedure. The only change I did, at least purposely is, adjusting the nozzle offset and MIN/MAX positions for X and Y because I installed the "Hero Me" parts.</p>
<p>Here's a video of what happens:</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SN9cbFaW7ks?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
| 20723 | Weird bed movement when doing ABL (G29) | <p>As it turned out, it is actually a bug: <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/25565" rel="noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/25565</a></p>
|
2023-03-26T00:11:18.273 | |bowden|creality-ender-6| | <p>I'm very new into 3D printing.</p>
<p>I brought an Ender 6 and a cover for ABS printing, but the standard white Bowden tube was too short to pass through the hole of the cover. So I'm replacing the Bowden tube for a Capricorn one.</p>
<p>However, the manufacturer (Captubes.com) only states that their 2 meter <a href="https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/XS-Creality-Kit-2-Meter/p/123266814/category=23214267" rel="nofollow noreferrer">kit</a> is compatible with CR-10 and Ender 3.</p>
<p>Is this kit also compatible with an Ender 6?</p>
| 20730 | Upgrading Bowden Tube on Ender 6 to Capricorn | <p>I ended up getting in contact with the sales team at Captubes.com, and they replied promptly, what I did not expect.
They claim that the Capricorn tube is indeed compatible with the Ender 6 printer, and that they use the same fittings, with the exception of pro printers and ones that use something called a Bondtech extruder.
I'd like to thank everyone that helped to clear this matter.</p>
|
2023-03-26T17:44:31.027 | |power-supply| | <p>I'm trying to build a cover for my Hypercube Evo's <a href="https://www.jameco.com/z/LRS-350-24-MEAN-WELL-350-4W-24V-14-6A-Single-Output-Enclosed-Power-Supply_2219823.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Meanwell LRS 350W</a> power supply.</p>
<p>The power supply input is 120V AC and it provides 24V DC output to a <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/EinsyRambo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Einsy Rambo 1.2</a> board.</p>
<p>I want to protect the Meanwell mains with a cover and a rocker switch with IEC receptacle like <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07KS2TQ45" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>.</p>
<p>The receptacle has a 5 AMP Fuse between mains and switch. The Einsy also has three fuses, one for Hotend 5 AMP and one for Fans, etc. 5 AMP, and also a 15 AMP fuse for the heatbed. And there is a dedicated power input for the bed on the board. I plan to run a MK2a <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed" rel="nofollow noreferrer">heatbed</a>, which I think will draw about 13 AMPS at least.</p>
<p>My question is, will the receptacle fuse blow when I use the heatbed, or does the amperage come from the power supply (after the receptacle)?</p>
<p>Any other thing I should worry about in this configuration?</p>
| 20734 | Can I run a 15 AMP heatbed behind a 5 AMP IEC Receptacle? | <p>The fuses on the board are for current pulled from the 24V DC. 15 amps of 24V DC is 3 amps of 120V AC, plus a little lost in conversion inefficiency in the power supply. If all of them were maxxed out, you'd be right at the 5 amp from mains, and inefficiency could perhaps throw you over. But presumably they're not supposed to be maxxed out, so you're probably okay.</p>
|
2023-03-27T09:38:03.233 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|axis|x-axis|ender3| | <p>I got an Ender 3 Pro yesterday and have been having a problem with all of my prints. Whenever the extrusion stops and the X-axis moves, it moves too far. For example, I tried printing a Benchy with 2 skirt lines, and the lines were the right size but too far apart <em>(I measured it and they turned out to be 5 mm apart)</em>.<br />
To be clear, this issue only occurs when I'm printing something. When I use the 'move axis' function on the X-axis, it moves appropriately.</p>
<ul>
<li>Is this a problem with the G-code/slicer or the printer?</li>
<li>What is causing this and how do I fix it?</li>
</ul>
<p>Update: I've attached a picture of this. I threw the original Benchy in the trash so I made another one. I'll keep experimenting and see if I can fix it.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7PMSw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7PMSw.jpg" alt="Picture of an uncompleted first layer of a 3D Benchy. The skirt lines around the model are noticeably far apart." /></a></p>
| 20737 | Ender 3 Pro: X-axis moves too much during printing | <blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Is this a problem with the G-code/slicer or the printer?</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>The issue came from the way I assembled my printer, not from the G-code or slicer that I was using.</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>What is causing this and how do I fix it?</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>It turns out that I put the belt on the X-axis upside down, and that was causing it to move incorrectly. I detached the belt from the 2 points that it was clipped onto, then re-applied it correctly and tightly, and now I can print things properly.</p>
|
2023-03-29T13:59:46.777 | |3d-models|3d-design| | <p>I have created an action figure and would like to print it.
Anyway, I am not sure the best way to print it, the action figure can be printed only once but the duration is 10 hours. If I separate the part, the time is concise, but I need to do some changes to my file. What is the best way to print an action figure?
If the second method is the better (separate arm, legs, etc.), does exist a good way to do the join between parts?</p>
<p>My 3d printer is Elegoo Mars, so I use Chitubox.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTWE0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTWE0.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 20743 | What is the best way to print an action figure? | <p>In my experience, you should never print a figure like that upright as it A) takes too long and B) can cause problems with supports.</p>
<p>I would recommend that you cut it on two pieces. One with the legs and one with the body. This will cut your print time almost in half.</p>
<p>Next, tilt both parts backwards by at least 45 degrees. This will further reduce print time and will give you better supports as you can spread them out across a larger surface area while having a smaller surface area in contact with the FEP for each layer.</p>
<p>My printer ins an Elegoo Saturn. I use Chitubox.</p>
|
2023-03-30T13:42:11.850 | |ultimaker-cura|g-code|heated-bed| | <p>My printer's hot end heats up way faster than the bed. Still, it takes its sweet time, and Cura's default startup sequence: heat the bed, wait for bed to reach target temperature, heat hot-end, wait to reach hot-end temperature, proceed - takes considerably more that it should.</p>
<pre><code>M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for bed to reach temp
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp
</code></pre>
<p>Sure I could start heating both to target temperature simultaneously and then wait for both, but then I'll be baking unmoving filament in the nozzle for much longer than necessary. What I'd like to do is to start heating the nozzle when the bed is about 20 °C short of its target temperature - that causes them to reach their target temperatures nearly simultaneously. Something along the lines of:</p>
<pre><code>M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20} ;Wait for bed to be 20 degrees before target
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating extruder
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for bed to reach temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Wait for extruder to reach temp
</code></pre>
<p>Except <code>S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 20}</code> isn't recognized as a valid substitution.</p>
<p>How can I achieve the desired effect?</p>
| 20748 | Math in Cura start G-code expressions? | <p>None of the above examples work, because the settings parser is more complex than that.</p>
<p>So you can achieve preheated temperatures by adding the following modification to the <code>fdmprinter.def.json</code> file:</p>
<pre><code>"material_bed_temperature_pre":
{
"label": "Build Plate Preheat Temperature",
"description": "The temperature used for preheating the heated build plate.",
"unit": "°C",
"type": "float",
"resolve": "material_bed_temperature_pre",
"default_value": "material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 8",
"value": "material_bed_temperature_layer_0 - 8",
"minimum_value": "0",
"minimum_value_warning": "max(build_volume_temperature, max(extruderValues('material_bed_temperature')))",
"maximum_value_warning": "130",
"maximum_value": "200",
"enabled": "false",
"settable_per_mesh": false,
"settable_per_extruder": false,
"settable_per_meshgroup": false
},
</code></pre>
<p>A probable reason why the previous suggestions fail is that the code completion will see the inclusion as some sort of conflict/default as it is not listed in the settings ("enabled = false"). When there is conflict, it attempts to resolve it based on the "resolve" field, equating to the layer_0 setting in an incorrect example.</p>
<p>So the value can be something else than what is listed in the "value" category depending on circumstances.
With this addition, the value has no other choice than to compute the preheated temperature based on layer_0 temperature.</p>
<p>For nozzle temperatures, I use fixed value which does not yet cause oozing of most materials during the small mismatch of sync period.</p>
<p>The setting in the G-code generator is as follows:</p>
<pre><code>M190 S{material_bed_temperature_pre} ;Initial bed temperature, wait
M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating the bed
M104 S180 ;Hotend initial target, no wait
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F1200 ;Move the platform down 15mm
M104 S{material_print_temperature} ;Hotend actual target, no wait
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ;Target bed temperature, wait
M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; wait for hotend
</code></pre>
<p>So first we wait for the bed to reach preheat temperatures, which takes some time.
Then, the bed temperature is set to target and the nozzle is to preheat levels, but in the background.</p>
<p>During this, we moved to the home position.</p>
<p>Finally, in sequence ultimate target for the nozzle is no wait, and then we stay until the bed temperature is final. To make sure the nozzle is at the final temperature (if it was not reached during bed heat up), we wait for it until it goes to actual printing.</p>
|
2023-04-01T01:15:32.677 | |g-code|prusaslicer| | <p>I'm trying to combine two different G-code files into one. The reason I'm doing this is that I'd like to print my part with different layer heights. I've managed to combine the two G-codes together, but when it gets to the layer where the layer height changes, it stops moving and keeps extruding for 10-15 seconds, creating a blob of plastic, then moves on destroying the print.</p>
<p>I've tried using with PrusaSlicer's manual layer height feature, but their normal supports are unusable on my part and their organic supports are not compatible with the variable layer heights. Cura simply does not have this capability, and their adaptive layer height feature is not the answer. Here is what I'm trying to do:</p>
<ol>
<li>Create G-code with layer height set to 0.3 mm</li>
<li>Change layer height to 0.1 mm and create G-code from that</li>
<li>Load 0.1 mm G-code into Notepad++ and find the layer I want to change it at</li>
<li>Delete all G-code past that layer</li>
<li>Load 0.3 mm G-code into Notepad++ and find where that layer would start based on Z height</li>
<li>Copy/Paste the rest of the G-code into the 0.1 mm file</li>
<li>Save and run on the printer</li>
</ol>
<p>It mostly works but the layer height change stops. Does anyone know what is happening?</p>
<p>Here are a bunch of lines from the g-code before and after where the transition happens. I have it marked in the g-code exactly where:</p>
<pre><code>G1 F2400 E2234.44369
G1 F3600 X105.992 Y179.63 E2234.66835
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2233.86835
G1 F300 Z5.8
G0 F9000 X106.068 Y183.796 Z5.8
M204 S500
G1 F300 Z5.4
G1 F2400 E2234.66835
G1 F3600 X99.843 Y190.022 E2234.8704
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2234.0704
G1 F300 Z5.8
G0 F9000 X101.42 Y192.688 Z5.8
M204 S500
G1 F300 Z5.4
G1 F2400 E2234.8704
G1 F3600 X106.635 Y187.472 E2235.03967
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2234.23967
G1 F300 Z5.8
G0 F9000 X107.871 Y190.479 Z5.8
M204 S500
G1 F300 Z5.4
G1 F2400 E2235.03967
G1 F3600 X104.311 Y194.039 E2235.15521
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2234.35521
G1 F300 Z5.8
G0 F9000 X108.544 Y194.049 Z5.8
M204 S500
G1 F300 Z5.4
G1 F2400 E2235.15521
G1 F3600 X109.947 Y192.646 E2235.20075
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2234.40075
G1 F300 Z5.8
G0 F9000 X120.783 Y90.912 Z5.8
M204 S500
;TYPE:WALL-OUTER
G1 F300 Z5.4
G1 F2400 E2235.20075
G1 F1978 X120.784 Y92.216 E2235.22798
G1 F1939 X120.794 Y92.736 E2235.23906
G1 F1901.4 X120.794 Y122.763 E2235.89141
G1 F1939 X120.783 Y123.279 E2235.90241
G1 F1978 X120.784 Y124.585 E2235.92968
G1 X120.974 Y124.314 E2235.93659
G1 X121.199 Y123.844 E2235.94748
G1 X121.327 Y123.323 E2235.95868
G1 F1939 X121.362 Y122.774 E2235.9704
G1 F1901.4 X121.362 Y92.736 E2236.62299
G1 F1939 X121.327 Y92.172 E2236.63503
G1 F1978 X121.201 Y91.663 E2236.64598
G1 X120.97 Y91.177 E2236.65722
G1 X120.819 Y90.963 E2236.66269
G0 F1620 X120.783 Y90.912
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2235.86269
G1 F300 Z5.8
;MESH:NONMESH
G0 F9000 X100 Y39.255 Z5.8
;TIME_ELAPSED:4586.593663
;-------------------------------------------------------------
;-----------------Transition Happens Here---------------------
;-------------------------------------------------------------
;LAYER:18
G0 X100 Y40.153 Z6.1
G1 F300 Z6.1
G0 F9000 X97.297 Y34.468
M204 S500
;TYPE:SUPPORT
G1 F300 Z5.7
G1 F2400 E2715.82188
G1 F1800 X97.297 Y34.468
G1 X97.47 Y35.08 E2715.86566
G1 X97.834 Y36.138 E2715.9427
G1 X98.102 Y36.794 E2715.99148
G1 X98.421 Y37.518 E2716.04595
G1 X98.79 Y38.243 E2716.10196
G1 X98.96 Y38.555 E2716.12642
G1 X99.366 Y39.232 E2716.18077
G1 X99.605 Y39.602 E2716.2111
G1 X100 Y40.153 E2716.25778
G1 X100.057 Y40.232 E2716.26448
G1 X100.343 Y40.609 E2716.29706
G1 X100.73 Y41.147 E2716.34269
G1 X100.934 Y41.458 E2716.3683
G1 X101.342 Y42.136 E2716.42278
G1 X101.476 Y42.382 E2716.44206
G1 X101.861 Y43.147 E2716.50103
G1 X102.193 Y43.913 E2716.55851
G1 X102.303 Y44.19 E2716.57903
G1 X102.602 Y45.029 E2716.64035
G1 X102.687 Y45.297 E2716.65971
G1 X102.939 Y46.186 E2716.72332
G1 X103.19 Y47.204 E2716.79551
G1 X103.692 Y47.104 E2716.83075
G1 X103.724 Y47.394 E2716.85084
G1 X103.799 Y48.272 E2716.91151
G1 X103.818 Y48.652 E2716.9377
G1 X103.839 Y49.553 E2716.99975
G1 X103.839 Y56.239 E2717.46007
G1 X100 Y56.239 E2717.72438
G1 X97.297 Y56.239 E2717.91048
G1 X97.297 Y34.823 E2719.38494
G0 F1620 X97.297 Y34.468
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2718.58494
G1 F300 Z6.1
G0 F9000 X100 Y40.153 Z6.1
M204 S500
G1 F300 Z5.7
G1 F2400 E2719.38494
G1 F1800 X100 Y56.239 E2720.49244
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2719.69244
G1 F300 Z6.1
G0 F9000 X130 Y89.241 Z6.1
M204 S500
G1 F300 Z5.7
G1 F2400 E2720.49244
G1 F1800 X130 Y125.641 E2722.99852
G1 X127.425 Y125.641 E2723.1758
G1 X127.425 Y89.241 E2725.68189
G1 X135 Y89.241 E2726.20342
G1 X135 Y125.641 E2728.7095
G1 X142.825 Y125.641 E2729.24824
G1 X142.825 Y89.241 E2731.75433
G1 X140 Y89.241 E2731.94882
G1 X140 Y125.286 E2734.43047
G0 F1620 X140 Y125.641
M204 S2000
G1 F2400 E2733.63047
G1 F300 Z6.1
G0 F9000 X100 Y175.345 Z6.1
G1 F300 Z6.1
G0 F9000 X97.278 Y181.097
</code></pre>
| 20756 | Splicing G-code issue | <p>This is completely expected from your description. You just cannot bluntly paste a different section of a G-code file into another without tweaking the interface layer (unless the extruder length is reset at every layer).</p>
<p>You need to make sure that the extruder distance is set to the right value. Usually the extruder length is reset to zero once in a while or at layer change to prevent too large E values (<a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>G92 E0</code></a>), but when you paste a layer with a mismatch in E value between the two, the extruder will extrude (or retract, this is equally valid, but in this case extrude) first before it will move further.</p>
<p>What you need to check for is the E value, look if it is reset or not and set the value by defining the correct value with <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>G92 Exxx</code></a>, where <code>xxx</code> is the correct value from the pasted layer (this will be the starting point for E extrusion).</p>
<p>From the updated question with the G-code snippet we see that the above described is actually happening, layer 17 has a final move laying down filament in</p>
<p><code>G1 F2400 E2235.86269</code></p>
<p>and layer 18 has the first filament deposition with</p>
<p><code>G1 F2400 E2715.82188</code>.</p>
<p>You can see that almost 500 mm of filament is wasted (2235 -> 2715). This means that you need add</p>
<p><code>G92 E2715.82188</code></p>
<p>before</p>
<p><code>G1 F2400 E2715.82188</code>.</p>
|
2023-04-01T09:31:04.370 | |print-quality| | <p>Just started 3D printing. Switched from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.2 mm nozzle and am printing my first object. It has this pattern/inconsistency. Thinking it might be temperature variation but not sure. Anyone know what it is?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqsme.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqsme.jpg" alt="Image of a 3D printed comb with usual pattern" /></a></p>
<p>I changed the speed to 60 % cause not enough was coming out at a time, it improved the results. Layer height 0.2 mm but it may be a little off from because of the leveling. I increased flow 15 % just now and seems to be printing better with more adhesion.</p>
| 20758 | Why does my print have this unusual pattern? | <p>Layer height should be max. 3/4 of the nozzle width, so you should print at max. 0.15 mm layer height with a 0.2 mm nozzle. So the problem is that you are using a too large of a layer height (0.2 mm). If you push more flow it appears to work, but, for the wrong reasons.</p>
<p>With a layer height as large as the nozzle width, you extrude cylinders/tubes with much space between the perimeters, by increasing the flow percentage you somewhat flatten the tubes, but it is better to lower the layer height.</p>
|
2023-04-03T20:11:27.823 | |creality-ender-3|heat-management|creality|bigtreetech|klipper| | <p>I just swapped out my MicroSwiss direct-drive extruder and hotend for a Creality Sprite Pro on my Ender 3 with an upgraded mother board to the BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 and I'm experiencing thermal runaway on power-on.</p>
<p>Previous (working) configuration:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ender 3 pro</li>
<li>BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with Klipper firmware</li>
<li>MicroSwiss direct-drive</li>
</ul>
<p>New configuration:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ender 3 pro</li>
<li>BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1 loaded with klipper firmware</li>
<li>Creality Sprite Pro</li>
</ul>
<p>Steps that I'm taking to hit thermal runaway:</p>
<ol>
<li>Turn on power switch for the Ender 3 Pro.</li>
</ol>
<p>NOTE: Thermal Runaway Protection does not work here. The TRP detects and triggers, but Klipper doesn't seem to have any ability to control the heating tube. Instead, Klipper shuts down and the heating tube keeps running away. Each time I've had to cut the power manually.</p>
<p>Additional things that I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port</strong> - this powers on the printer but will error on any attempt to drive motors or run the extruder. RESULT: thermal runaway to the best that it can, plateauing around 60 °C.</li>
<li><strong>Powering on using the power from the Raspberry Pi's USB port, then disconnecting and powering on without the Raspberry Pi connected, then powering down and reconnecting the Raspberry Pi</strong> - this confirms for me that in the absence of the Raspberry Pi, it still reaches a runaway state; RESULT: monitoring before and after powering manually showed a jump of 100 °C in 30 seconds, meaning if the printer has power, it will power the heating tube with as much as it can.</li>
<li><strong>Reversing the + and - wires</strong> - this is the recommendation in the instruction manual, <em>"If 3D printer restarts during hotend heating up, please reverse the heating tube connectors on mainboard"</em>; RESULT: prevents the printer from powering on - everything appears dead and returning the cables to the correct polarities returns it to a runaway state.</li>
</ul>
| 20776 | Thermal runaway without error on power-on - Ender 3, BTT Octopus V1.1, and Sprite Pro | <p><em>This question seems to be solved, this (community) answer is posted as a whole from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20776/thermal-runaway-without-error-on-power-on-ender-3-btt-octopus-v1-1-and-sprit#comment39508_20776">comment</a> until the OP adds a more detailed answer.</em></p>
<hr />
<blockquote>
<p>I swapped back in the original heating tube and it had the same issue. I was able to get it all working by using the second heating element port on the Octopus board.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2023-04-03T21:12:10.720 | |extruder|hotend|e3d-v6|ultimaker-2| | <p>I'm working on converting an Ultimaker 2 Go to use 1.75 mm filament. So far, I have replaced the bowden tube, replaced the feeder with this one: <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-feeder-1-75mm-version#information" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-feeder-1-75mm-version#information</a>, and changed slicer/machine settings.</p>
<p>An issue I am having is grinding at regular intervals, causing severe inconsistent extrusion. Messing with the feeder tension does not do anything. So, I am wondering if upgrading the hotend to an e3D V6 will solve it. Is there anything else to consider?
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoOVE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SoOVE.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
I also wonder if the problem has to do with the knurled drivegear. Would this work fine with 1.75 mm filament?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFo8A.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFo8A.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>`</p>
| 20778 | Ultimaker 2 Go - Converting to Use 1.75 mm Filament | <p>Figured this out a while ago, but I thought I might as well update this.</p>
<p>So the issue was simply there was not enough tension, and that pretty much solved all the problems. I also did end up using an E3D v6 1.75 mm hotend.</p>
<p>Right now, I'm working on making it print faster. I am using klipper on a Raspberry Pi Zero W, and I'm playing with different fan ducts to improve part cooling.</p>
|
2023-04-05T17:01:32.697 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting| | <p>After fiddling with the settings on my Cura profile, my Ender 3 S1 is now messing up my prints in a weird way. While printing, it just pauses at a corner on all the layers of the print for a second or so, leading to large blobs of material building up there. <strong>What setting(s), if any could be causing this?</strong></p>
<p>As a note, my Cura settings are anything but default. I mess around with a lot of different options to try to optimize my prints. I could reset the profile to default, but I'd rather keep most of my settings.</p>
<p>Here is a picture of the issue:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJude.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cJude.jpg" alt="issue" /></a></p>
| 20784 | What Cura setting is messing up my prints? | <p>Similar to what @kosteklvp suggested, it turns out the problem was related to the SD card I was using. It was a microSD card with an adapter, which may have been the problem. After swapping it out with for a different SD card, the printer now functions properly.</p>
|
2023-04-06T17:38:22.200 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|g-code|automatic-bed-leveling| | <p>So, the G-code preppended to my slicer output (by Cura itself) looks like this:</p>
<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
;G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
;G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
;G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
;G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
;G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
;G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
</code></pre>
<p>But this code seems to be causing issues where it ignores the ABL (auto bed leveling.)</p>
<p>In my case, this means that the extruder starts clicking, and I suspect that with the particular hotend I have, this causes issues. For now, I have commented out all the code to draw the primer lines, as you can see.</p>
<p>Is there a way to make them respect auto-leveling?</p>
| 20788 | CURA prints some primer lines, but they don't seem to respect bed automatic bed leveling | <p>You should add <code>M420 S</code> command after <code>G28</code> to Start G-code.</p>
<p>According to <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin docs</a>, <code>G28</code> command disables bed leveling by default.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><code>G28</code> disables bed leveling. Follow with <code>M420 S</code> to turn leveling on, or use <code>RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28</code> to automatically keep leveling on after <code>G28</code>.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Alternatively, you can change the <code>RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28</code> value to <code>true</code> in firmware.</p>
|
2023-04-10T09:41:49.927 | |extruder|bowden|knowledgebase|direct-drive| | <p>As these are the two most commonly used extruder systems in FDM printers, I would like to know what is the difference between them. What are the advantages and disadvantages of using each of them?</p>
| 20810 | What is the difference between a Bowden extruder and a direct drive extruder? | <p>A Bowden extruder and a direct drive extruder are two different types of extruder systems used in FDM 3D printers. Both feed filament into the hotend, but differ in the way the filament is pushed into it. The main difference is the location of the extruder motor relative to the hotend, which results in some pros and cons in the usage of both of them.</p>
<hr />
<br>
<h2>Bowden extruder</h2>
<p>A Bowden extruder has the motor located remotely from the hotend, usually on the printer's frame. Filament is fed from the motor to the hotend through a Bowden tube. This setup is typically used in 3D printers that require high speeds and accelerations, as the reduced weight of the hotend allows for faster and more accurate movement.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SECMW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SECMW.jpg" alt="Visualization of the Bowden extruder system" /></a></p>
<p>The main advantage of a Bowden extruder is that it reduces the weight of the printhead. It can improve print speed and accuracy, especially for faster print speeds. It also reduces the amount of space required in the printhead, allowing for larger hotends or additional features to be added.</p>
<p>However, Bowden extruders can suffer from problems with filament control, such as oozing or stringing of the filament. The friction in the Bowden tube and distance between the extruder and the hotend causes the reaction time of each motor movement to be extended.</p>
<hr />
<br>
<h2>Direct drive extruder</h2>
<p>A direct drive extruder has the motor located directly above or beside the hotend, which eliminates the need for a Bowden tube. The Bowden tube is typically very short or totally absent. This setup is used in printers that require precise filament control and are capable of printing with a wide range of materials.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FN9FK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FN9FK.jpg" alt="Visualization of the direct drive extruder system" /></a></p>
<p>The main advantage of a direct drive extruder system is that it minimizes the distance between the extruder and the hotend. It allows for better control of the filament and reduces friction due to a shorter distance between the extruder and the hotend. This allows to use smaller values of retraction settings, which can reduce stringing and oozing. It results in better control of demanding filaments. Direct drive extruders can handle flexible and soft filaments more effectively.</p>
<p>However, the added weight of the extruder motor can result in slower printing speeds and reduced accuracy during high-speed printing. A heavier printhead can also cause artifacts and ringing on the surface of the prints.</p>
<hr />
<br>
<p>In summary, Bowden extruders are better suited for high-speed printing and have a lower risk of filament contamination, while Direct Drive extruders are better suited for more precise printing and more demanding materials. The choice between these two systems ultimately depends on the specific requirements of the printer and the printing application. Costs also have to be taken into account, because direct drive extruders are relatively more expensive than Bowden extruders.</p>
|
2023-04-10T14:47:28.193 | |troubleshooting|adhesion|anet-a8| | <p>We have an old Anet A8 3D printer. It took us a while to fix it and get it running. But when it prints, the filament curls up and sticks to the nozzle end and doesn't stick to the bed.</p>
<p>Sometimes it doesn't curl up, if I wipe the nozzle after the printer starts. But when it prints, a portion of the filament sticks to the bed, but as the head moves, the whole thread of the filament dries up quickly and drags the part that did stick with it, messing everything up and curling up the nozzle like the first case.</p>
<p>My Anet A8 has a heated bed, but although the bed heats up, it seems like the filament dries up too quickly. Is that the problem, how to fix it ?</p>
| 20812 | Filament curls up in the nozzle and doesn't stick to the bed | <p>It looks like it is a problem with temperature. After changing filament temperature to 260 °C it prints excellent now. Printing PLA at 215 °C also works pretty well. Fresh new spool does magic or PLA does magic.</p>
|
2023-04-10T20:06:02.577 | |prusa-i3|cooling|print-fan| | <p>I am having a lot of troubles with running my Prusa Mk3S at my student dorm, because of the extremely loud stock part cooling fan - it annoys people A LOT). So I started working on a design using one or two Noctua 40x20 axial fans (2 to get more static pressure) as part cooling fans.</p>
<p>So I wanted to ask if it/they would provide sufficient cooling to replace the centrifugal fan currently on the extruder assembly.
Does anyone have some experience on these kinds of builds?</p>
| 20815 | Is a 40x20 Noctua fan with a shroud good for part cooling? | <p>This probably does not make sense.</p>
<p>Noctua fans are quiet because they're really low-flow, and aside from really high-power (and noisy!) models like 4028 server fans, axial fans in general are unsuitable for part cooling because they have essentially no static pressure, meaning you can't run them through narrowing ducts. If you can just mount them to blow directly where you need the air, without a duct compressing it at all, they might work, but this tends to lead to a bulky toolhead that collides with ends of the axis, reducing your build volume, or that's cantilevered in ways that subjects the whole toolhead to vibrations.</p>
<p>I would look for a quieter radial blower fan that meets your needs. Note that the high quality dual-ball-bearing fans are generally a lot noisier than the garbage sleeve-bearing ones; the advantage is that the bearings don't wear out after a year or so. But if your goal is minimizing noise, you might do best to just buy new sleeve-bearing fans when they wear out. Knowing Prusa, they probably put the high quality fans on there, which would be why they make more noise.</p>
|
2023-04-12T09:05:18.153 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|slicing|infill| | <p>I tried to print my first object, which is the calibration cube downloaded from here, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube</a>.</p>
<p>However, the output has a visible infill on all sides:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sh8x4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of calibration cube with visible infill on all sides"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sh8x4.jpg" alt="Photo of calibration cube with visible infill on all sides" title="Photo of calibration cube with visible infill on all sides" /></a></p>
<p>I think this is because some settings are not correct in the slicer.</p>
<p>I am using:</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Ender 3</li>
<li>Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 5.3.0</li>
</ul>
| 20818 | Print output missing sides | <p>It looks like perimeters and solid layers are not set in the Slicer. Make sure that these settings are greater than zero:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvAkK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Settings to set in the slicer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvAkK.jpg" alt="Settings to set in the slicer" title="Settings to set in the slicer" /></a></p>
|
2023-04-12T14:55:49.610 | |creality-ender-3|extrusion|calibration| | <p>I have a Ender3V2 Creality 3D printer. I recently changed the extruder for a metal one because the previous was broken.</p>
<p>I have troubles to print now. The adhesion layer peels off easily (kinds of bubbles inside that lift it) and the overall quality is poor.</p>
<p>While looking for a solution, I noticed that my extruder was not calibrated correctly. However, following the standard procedure does not fix my problem. Below is what I did and the results:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FISYA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Extruder diagram"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FISYA.jpg" alt="Extruder diagram" title="Extruder diagram" /></a></p>
<p>The PTFE tube is disconnected to avoid eventual nozzle problem.
I asked for 10 cm extrusion severals times, and the results were as follows (distance in mm):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbcxq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Experimentation table"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kbcxq.jpg" alt="Experimentation table" title="Experimentation table" /></a></p>
<p>Ratio is <em>Transmission ratio E</em>, that I found in <strong>Control</strong> -> <strong>Motion</strong> -> <strong>Transmission ratio</strong> -> <strong>Transmission ratio E</strong>.</p>
<p>I don't understand these results. The initial ratio change should have corrected the under-extrusion. Returning to 93 should also have given me the same result as initially.</p>
<p>I didn't use any G-code, I just used the printer panel (for both ratio changing & asking for extrusion).</p>
<p>I followed this video, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZYdqSUn5E4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How TO Calibrate The Esteps On A Direct Drive Extruder The EASY Way!</a></p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TZYdqSUn5E4?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>and used this <a href="https://www.th3dstudio.com/estep-calculator/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">EStep Calculator – V1.1</a>.</p>
| 20820 | Creality Ender3V2 extruder calibration | <p>Thanks to @kosteklvp's instructions in commentary, I was able to correctly calibrate my extruder.</p>
<p>Using a third-party app (octoprint via raspberry pi in my case) gave me more flexibility with settings.</p>
<p>Following @kosteklvp's proposed procedure (<a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps" rel="nofollow noreferrer">at this link</a>) allowed me to achieve my calibration.</p>
<p>I still have other troubles while printing, but no more related to my extruder.</p>
|
2023-04-12T16:56:04.757 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|underextrusion| | <p>I got my first 3D printer this week, a Creality Ender 3.</p>
<p>Tried to print a few small samples to test it, but every shape I printed had an extra external layer. Please, check these images:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfh7h.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of printed object with extra layer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfh7h.jpg" alt="Photo of printed object with extra layer" title="Photo of printed object with extra layer" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gngpk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of extra layer, with layer pulled to one side"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gngpk.jpg" alt="Photo of extra layer, with layer pulled to one side" title="Photo of extra layer, with layer pulled to one side" /></a></p>
<p>I used Freecad to draw the objects, and Slic3r to convert them to G-code.</p>
<p>Am I doing something wrong? Is my printer not a good one?</p>
<p>Any comment will be very helpful.</p>
| 20821 | Extra external layer (shell) on my first prints | <p>If you do some quick calculations it appears that this is caused by under-extrusion.</p>
<p>Comparing the extruded volume to the calculated volume for the deposition there is a mismatch of about 2.6. This hints to the use of an incorrect diameter for the filament <span class="math-container">$\frac{2.85^2}{1.75^2}=2.65$</span>.</p>
|
2023-04-12T20:25:28.247 | |troubleshooting|hotend|thermistor|thermal-runaway| | <p>I'm using a 65W heater cartridge and T-D500 type NTC thermistor. This setup has been working fine since I installed it sometime last year. Suddenly today, the temperature reading started jumping around 5-25° below the set temperature, but only while printing. It holds temperature solid at idle, and PID autotune produces numbers like normal.</p>
<p>How should I go about diagnosing what component is bad? Is it necessarily the cartridge or thermistor (or rather their wiring) or could it be noise or voltage instability or something else?</p>
| 20823 | Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature | <h2>Well, it could be a bad thermosensor...</h2>
<p>Bad Thermosensors do show themselves in multiple ways, among them fluctuating their readings before fully failing.</p>
<h2>Thermosensors have ranges</h2>
<p>Every thermosensor comes with a range for which it actually can operate reliably. For example, the <a href="https://www.ifm.com/ch/de/product/TS2289" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TS2289</a> is rated for -40 to 90 °C, and thus would be not usable for a 3D printer at all, while <a href="https://www.ifm.com/ch/de/product/TS2452" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TS2452</a> is rated for -100 to 600 °C.</p>
<p>The glass bead sensor on a Creality Ender3 is a <em>ntc 100k thermistor</em>. That is only a class, and it contains multiple entries. This is not actually a specific sensor but a class that contains multiple sensors. For example, <a href="https://www.roboter-bausatz.de/p/thermistor-ntc-3950-100k-ohm-mit-1m-anschlusskabel" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><em>NTC 3950</em></a> is listed as -40 to 300 °C, which means it might be <em>barely useable</em> in that area, yet there might be larger fluctuations than normal as the resolution at the ends of the measuring range gets higher. In about the same dimensions, you might however also get a very similar sensor like thos from the <a href="https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/18/AAS-920-308B-Thermometrics-NTC-TypeBR-100714-web-1315835.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Datasheet of the NTC Type BR Series</a>. This document lists BR11/14/16/25 with a ceiling of 200 °C and B32/42/55 with a ceiling of 300 °C, all of which are in a very similar size range.</p>
<p>Not all sensors are glass-bead style, like the standard e3D v6 <a href="https://e3d-online.com/products/thermistor-cartridge" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thermosensor cartridge</a>, which is listed as a Semitec 104NT thermistor the ceiling listed as 300 °C, but the same form factor also fits other cartridges. The sensor listed by e3D actually does come as a glass bead style too, <a href="https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Semitec/104NT-4-R025H42G?qs=rGO4O3Mig4iE3j3dGyPxTQ%3D%3D" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed as -50 to 300 °C</a></p>
<p>Such other sensors might be <a href="https://3dpblog.com/pt100-3d-printing-review" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PT100B</a> or <a href="https://3dpblog.com/pt1000-3dp-review/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PT1000</a> are claimed to accurately work up to 450 °C and might operate reliably even at 500 °C. A similar E3D Thermosensor is the <a href="https://e3d-online.com/products/pt100-temperature-sensor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PT100</a>, and would also operate fine in that range.</p>
<p>Simply put: to reliably print at those high temperatures, you might want to change the thermosensor for a type that actually does operate reliably in those high-temperature areas.</p>
<h2>P.S.</h2>
<p><sup>I do not use the word thermistor (or thermocouple) here, because those describe specific types of sensor. The more generic term Thermosensor describes <strong>anything</strong> from a simple thermometer, over thermistors and thermocouples to an IR sensor.</sup></p>
|
2023-04-14T20:47:05.893 | |marlin|bed-leveling| | <p>Going through the printer options, I came across the <strong><code>Fade Height</code></strong> option under <code>Bed Leveling</code> section.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFt9y.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFt9y.jpg" alt="Fade Height option on printer's screen" /></a></p>
<p>What is it and what is its use in Marlin firmware?</p>
| 20830 | What is the Fade Height option in Marlin? | <p><strong>Fade Height</strong> is used to specify the height above the bed at which the printer should stop fading the bed leveling correction. Bed leveling is gradually decreasing with each successive layer until fade height is reached. From this height, bed leveling compensation becomes turned off.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZU1h.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ZU1h.jpg" alt="Presentation of how Fade Height works" /></a></p>
<p>For example, if the bed is slightly warped or uneven, the printer may need to compensate by lowering the nozzle at the center of the bed but less so near the edges of the bed. By setting Fade height, the printer will gradually decrease the correction as it moves away from the center of the bed, resulting in more accurate print.</p>
<hr />
<p>According to <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin docs</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>With Fade height enabled, bed leveling correction is gradually reduced as the nozzle gets closer to the Fade height. Above the Fade height no bed leveling compensation is applied at all, so movement is machine true.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2023-04-17T07:48:21.847 | |stl|meshmixer| | <p>I have an organic but more complex STL model. It is so detailed and every detail is important to us.</p>
<p>We have a remesh tool in Meshmixer. It says:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>With Meshmixer, you can create an even tessellation using the Remesh command. Click the Select Icon in the menu and click to create an area to be remeshed, or use Ctrl + A to select the entire object. On the Popup menu, click Edit → Remesh or hit R.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Question:
When applying this tool to my STL model, does it happen that any detail will be gone off? Or, will I get same complex model?</p>
| 20841 | With remesh tool in Meshmixer; What happens to the details of the model? | <p>While doing this, you may encounter the loss of details. To avoid this, precise settings must be made. For example,</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Adaptive Size: This option can be used to configure large surfaces and preserve small details.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Detail Smoothing :With this process, a more detailed examination of the surface is checked. This option must be enabled.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Target Triangle Count:It is used to increase the number of triangles that will divide the surface as the mesh operation is repeated. Using this, the more triangles we can cover the surface, the more detailed information can be obtained.</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
2023-04-20T08:37:48.857 | |troubleshooting|hotend|temperature| | <p>After encountering an issue where the original heater cartridge (~40 W) for my generic MK6 hotend was unable to reach/maintain stable temperature at ~260 °C (for PETG) I replaced it with a higher wattage heater (60 W). The new heater heats up faster and can maintain temperature, but I noticed that if I try to print too fast it will become unstable and the printer stops with a heater error, even with a lower temperature of 250 °C. This can be seen in the temperature plot below.</p>
<p>I have performed PID tuning (see the nicely flat spots on the temperature plot), so I don't think that's the issue. The thermistor is well-secured to the block.</p>
<p>I am using a BTT SKR Pico V1.0 control board with Klipper over UART to a Raspberry Pi A3.
Does anyone have experience with an issue like this? Could it be that the SKR Pico is not supplying sufficient power while also running the motors and heated bed?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/R97dd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/R97dd.png" alt="HeaterFailure" /></a></p>
| 20847 | Print failure due to heater inconsistency | <p>This is very similar to what I recently experienced in the question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20823/diagnosing-sudden-problem-with-hotend-temperature">Diagnosing sudden problem with hotend temperature</a>, where the root cause seems to have been a bad thermistor - internal conductors probably broken in a way that they intermittently make reduced contact during toolhead motion. But I didn't have a problem while heating like your graph shows, only during motion, so it's also plausible that the wiring to the heater is bad. Since these aren't expensive components it might make sense to just replace the thermistor, heater cartridge, and any asssociated wiring if you don't want to spend time fighting with the problem.</p>
|
2023-04-20T19:38:59.363 | |heated-bed|power-supply| | <p>I've got a 12 V bed (MK2A) and a 24 V PSU (Meanwell 350). I've also got a 12-24 V Einsy Rambo controller, and I'd like to run my hotend at 24 V. My HEVO is still in development, so when I tested the bed, anything over 32 °C restarted the board (I forgot it was 12 V).</p>
<p>Must be a voltage drop from the bed draw? The Einsy has a dedicated rail for the bed, so I was thinking I could use a dropdown converter between the PSU and the board rail. So I could continue to run the 24 V PSU for everything else and 12 V for the bed. Is it a bad idea from a safety perspective to run a simple 24 V->12 V converter in line there?</p>
<p>Also, what would that do to my amperage, I read something about converting volts down causing high amps and wattages requirements. Is that true?</p>
<p>UPDATE:</p>
<p>I wanted to check if changing the bed config in Marlin would allow me to reduce the voltage and it appears that if I change MAX_BED_POWER to 127 (half) I can indeed run the bed as is. I can bring it up to 70 degrees at least at the moment. Admittedly I'm not sure what this does exactly and if this is safe. Thoughts?</p>
<p>This thread appears to discuss exactly my problem and my temporary solution with MAX_BED_POWER limit too.</p>
<p><a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,252638" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,252638</a></p>
<p><a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?4,851922" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's a similar discussion</a></p>
| 20851 | Is it a bad idea to run 24 V to 12 V step down to heated bed? | <h1>It will come with issues</h1>
<ol>
<li>Efficiency of good step down converters is 90%. Cheap ones used to start at 70%. What that means is:
<ul>
<li>Additional strain on your PSU and control board.</li>
<li>More heat to dissipate, that'll go to waste unless you have a closed chamber and print in things that requires high temperatures.</li>
<li>Higher electricity bill than it needs to be.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Additional point of failure:
<ul>
<li>You will spend more time building and debugging your device.</li>
<li>Higher risk of failed prints in the future.</li>
<li>More difficult repairs.</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Lower voltage means thicker or hotter cables.
<ul>
<li>Hotter is wasteful and can be dangerous.</li>
<li>Stiffer is bad for bedslinger designs.</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<p>It is your choice if you are OK with these drawbacks. I would not, but none of these screams <em>"don't do it!"</em>. It's quite probable that you will be able to pull it off and make a decent printer.</p>
|
2023-04-26T02:02:14.913 | |maintenance|linear-motion|belt| | <p>My CoreXY style printer doesn't have perfect belt alignment with its pullies, so there is some occasional squeaking on at least one pulley where the belt rubs against a flange. Since I don't have an easy way of adjusting the pulleys (maybe some <em>tiny</em> shim washers) I was hoping to just apply some oil to minimize the wear.</p>
<p>Could I just throw some 3-in-1 oil on the belt? Is there a better lubricant to use? I doubt that the belt would start skipping, but I am worried about damaging the belt due to some chemical incompatibility with the oil.</p>
<p>The belt is the most generic GT2-style timing belt you would find on a 3D printer, probably the same as this <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00YMM6IQW" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HICTOP 3D Printer Belt</a>.</p>
| 20876 | Can I lubricate the timing belts to prevent squeaking against pulleys? | <p>The pulleys on nearly every 3D printer I've seen are held in place on the stepper motor shaft with a grub screw. A bit of rotation of the pulley should bring into view this screw, which will use a fairly small hex wrench. Loosen the screw and slide the pulley in the direction appropriate to relieve the friction.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ucqC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ucqC.png" alt="pulley with grub screw" /></a></p>
<p>photo courtesy random selection from <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/848717492249343197/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pinterest</a></p>
<p>If you are unable to access the screws and choose to lubricate the belt, consider to use a non-reactive PTFE (teflon) type or silicone type substance and apply it sparingly to the belt edges. If the teeth of the belt and pulley receive the substance, you may not be able to avoid belt jumps under high acceleration movement.</p>
|
2023-04-30T16:37:30.113 | |linear-motion|belt|corexy|carriage| | <p>I have recently acquired a 'CraftBot XL' 3D printer (sold by CraftUnique), which is a CoreXY 3D printer with linear rails. It is a second-hand purchase and the seller were a company that had several. This particular unit has an issue where sometimes during X-axis movement, the Y-axis would move as well. They replaced the stepper motors, but the problem persisted so they opted to sell the machine.</p>
<p>I have found a possible cause of this issue. When I tried to move the carriage around manually, I noticed a particular heavy resistance / "drag" on approx. 1/3rd to 1/2 of the X-axis motion, toward the left extent of the build space. The remainder of the X axis and the Y and Z-axes are completely free to move as they ought to.</p>
<p>The force required to move the carriage in the problematic part of the X-axis is (subjectively) quite large. Much much larger than any other movement. I believe that during some combined XY-manouevers (diagonal movement), this force is too large, causing the carriage to only move in the Y-axis, resulting in errant behavior (at best: layer shift, at worst: carriage getting stuck and the printer needing to be reset). The behavior arises during homing often, as the home position is in the problematic area. An additional reason that I think the X-axis force is too large is that, when this problem occurs and I ever so slightly help the carriage along the X-axis with my hand, the movement can complete without issue.</p>
<p>Steps I have undertaken to no avail yet:</p>
<ul>
<li>Re-tension belts, make sure they are of roughly equal tension all around</li>
<li>Lubricate all axes with PTFE dry lube spray</li>
<li>Disconnect belts to see if they are causing the issue (they aren't, with belts completely disconnected the problem is unchanged)</li>
</ul>
<p>This is a diagram of the setup:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QiUF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QiUF.jpg" alt="CraftBot XL layout" /></a></p>
<p>What else could be causing this? I don't hear any out of place noises like metal grinding.</p>
<p>The next thing I want to check is the squareness of the gantry. I think I know how to measure it, but I'm not sure how to adjust it if it's off. Any help there?</p>
| 20888 | CraftBot XL (CoreXY) part of x-axis movement resistance / high force required | <p>I'm going to answer this myself, as I believe I have found the issue. It was purely a mechanical issue.</p>
<p>On this particular model, the extruder motor rides just on top of / above the crossbar that the linear rail is mounted under. The extruder motor was mounted very close to this crossbar, there was barely any clearance between the two. I figure that due to a slight deviation in height or non-squaredness in the ZY-axis, the motor started to heavily rub on the bar toward the left extent of the X-axis. I tested with a piece of paper, which I slid between the motor and the bar. This immediately caused the same "resistance" I was feeling before, but now everywhere along the X-axis.</p>
<p>After re-mounting the extruder motor about 1 mm higher, which the frame already allowed for, there is no longer any improper resistance noticable along any axis:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRuxN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRuxN.jpg" alt="Adequate clearance between motor and bar" /></a></p>
|
2023-05-01T18:56:20.907 | |bigtreetech|wiring|arduino| | <p>I can't seem to find wiring diagrams anywhere, so I am asking here.</p>
<p>Which pins do I use to connect my Arduino Uno to my Bigtreetech board?</p>
<p>I am connecting the Arduino to use it as an ICSP programmer, so that you can flash the BigTreeTech board. I have a V3 board version.</p>
| 20890 | How to connect Arduino Uno R3 to Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V3 | <p>First, make sure that you have flashed your Uno to be an ICSP programmer.</p>
<p>Then you just connect up the SPI pins of the two boards.</p>
<p>The pins on the Uno that you must use, are these, circled in yellow (you can ignore the red circles):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTfzC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="BigTreeTech board layout"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTfzC.jpg" alt="Uno board layout" title="BigTreeTech board layout" /></a></p>
<p>The pin out is as follows:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/etS4V.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Arduino Uno SPI pinout"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/etS4V.jpg" alt="Arduino Uno SPI pinout" title="Arduino Uno SPI pinout" /></a></p>
<p>The pins on the BigTreeTech board are shown on the right hand edge/side of the board, half way down, where it says <strong>SPI1</strong>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/os9G0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="BigTreeTech board v1.2 layout"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/os9G0.png" alt="BigTreeTech board v1.2 layout" title="BigTreeTech board v1.2 layout" /></a></p>
<p>The SPI pins on the v3 version of the board are still in a similar location, <em>but in a different order</em> (along with 2 other pins, that can be ignored):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HRqze.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="BigTreeTech board v3 layout"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HRqze.png" alt="BigTreeTech board v3 layout" title="BigTreeTech board v3 layout" /></a></p>
<p>Connect these pins on the Uno, to the "<em>like-for-like</em>" pins on the BigTree - no crossing over of wires is required. So, connect:</p>
<ul>
<li>MOSI to MOSI</li>
<li>MISO to MISO</li>
<li>SCK to SCK</li>
<li>RESET to RESET</li>
<li>VCC to VCC</li>
<li>GND to GND</li>
</ul>
<p>On the V3 board ignore the additional <code>NSS</code> and <code>3.3V</code> pins on the SPI1 connector</p>
<hr />
<h3>References</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2PIN.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BigTreeTech Board layout v.1.2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware/BTT%20E3%20SKR%20MINI%20V3.0_PIN.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BigTreeTech Board layout v.3</a></li>
<li><a href="https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino as ISP and Arduino Bootloaders</a></li>
</ul>
|
2023-05-03T12:52:46.613 | |creality-ender-3|layer-height|print-failure| | <p>This is kind of hard to explain but I have a 2 mm disc that has text on the top, it's a stamp effectively. I want my text to start right on the top after the top layer of the base (if that makes sense), but it's starting the text a few layers down into the top which is making the infill lines a right mess</p>
<p>The text seems to start a few layers down in the top of the base, and it's causing it to look a mess as it's going around it all.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZC5SL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D rendering of a disc with outlines for 'Happy Fathers Day'; the word 'Day' is extruded upwards"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZC5SL.png" alt="3D rendering of a disc with outlines for 'Happy Fathers Day'; the word 'Day' is extruded upwards" title="3D rendering of a disc with outlines for 'Happy Fathers Day'; the word 'Day' is extruded upwards" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/raaiH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Zoomed in screenshot of a slicer's preview showing the path of the filament being extruded"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/raaiH.png" alt="Zoomed in screenshot of a slicer's preview showing the path of the filament being extruded" title="Zoomed in screenshot of a slicer's preview showing the path of the filament being extruded" /></a></p>
| 20897 | I am pulling my hair out, why does my text start a few layers in to the top of my base? | <p>Your problem has to do with the top layers of your part surrounding the raised text. The infill for your raised text continues a bit because it's not yet close to the top.</p>
<p>The print becomes a mess because the inner walls for the raised text don't hit any infill material like the top layers in this Benchy: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol2Zw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol2Zw.png" alt="Example of top layer not hitting infill" /></a></p>
<p>To remedy this, you can try several different things.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Connect Infill Lines. Assuming you use the Cura slicer, you can use the Connect Infill Lines option which is specifically designed to create extra support for top layers.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJW0N.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJW0N.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
If the option isn't visible yet you can find it in the additional Infill settings:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWU82.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AWU82.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
</li>
<li><p>Increase infill density. You can increase the infill density ans check if the corners hit (or are very close to) the infill after slicing. In the example below, I raised the infill density from 10% to 25% and all corners are well supported by the infill. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSsYH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aSsYH.png" alt="increased infill density" /></a>
This is often not the best solution because it will severely increase the print time and used material.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Change infill pattern. You can play around with different infill patterns to see if another pattern is more favourable for the unsupported walls. I changes the infill pattern to <code>Lines</code> in this example and it supports the top layers a tiny bit better.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gvJf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gvJf.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
</li>
<li><p>If all else fails, you can add another piece and set the <a href="https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667411288884" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Per Model Settings</a> for the overlapping regions. I added a simple cube and increased the infill density for the overlaps to 50% and got this result:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQWlo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQWlo.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Of course there are al lot more things you can try but these are some options that have worked for me in the past. Hope it helps!</p>
|
2023-05-05T08:14:46.670 | |3d-models|print-material|dimensional-accuracy| | <p>Can you suggest me some good material choices for printing some mountains models for educational and fun purposes?</p>
<p>My goal is to mantain the best accuracy without spending too much, I have many models to print: they don't need to be super-resistant.</p>
<p>I was thinking about High-Detail Resin or simple PLA / Recycled rPLA.
I also checked Rigid Resin and Color-Changing PLA.</p>
<p>Here are some examples of my models:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/79eOj.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/79eOj.png" alt="mountain 1" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AciNE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AciNE.png" alt="mountain 2" /></a></p>
| 20904 | Best materials for printing mountains | <p>Material is not really going to affect the accuracy unless you're using very exotic things like lightweight foaming materials where the expansion is variable. You don't even have overhangs. So accuracy is pretty much entirely a function of the process, the quality of your machine, and the settings you use.</p>
<p>Resin will generally have higher resolution than FDM if that's what you're looking for. With FDM you can increase resolution somewhat by using a smaller nozzle, but that will make large prints like this very slow. Within the broad classes of resin or FDM, though, which specific resin or which specific polymer or color or brand you use is not going to make a difference. Pick the one that meets your aesthetic needs.</p>
|