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2022-04-10T07:33:36.303 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>This problem has been occurring for a while. On the top of round objects, you can see the individual layers. Maybe I just need a lower layer height.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQqhp.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors on the top"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQqhp.jpg" alt="Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors on the top" title="Photo of a 3D printed model with printing errors on the top" /></a></p>
| 19215 | Weird top layers on Ender 3 Pro | <p>Kilisi is absolutely right that you necessarily (without advanced non-planar slicing techniques that aren't available in production slicers) have a "stairstep" effect whenever you have a shallow angle top surface like that. However, it looks from your picture like you also have some <em>gaps</em> that are accentuating the problem and making your top surface non-watertight. This can be fixed.</p>
<p>Slicers (at least Cura) are fairly bad about figuring out where they have to put material under the very top layer to ensure that you have a solid wall of the desired thickness. Where the outer wall face is pointing almost-upward, you would need either a lot more outer perimeters than the shell thickness you want, because they're significantly offset from each other (often by as much or more than the whole 2D wall width) at each successive layer. Using excessively many walls will solve this, but wastes a lot of print time and material. Using more top layers is the easiest fix I know. I find that 5 top layers at 0.2 layer height pretty much always gives solid curved tops, even with spherical top shape. The only way that might fail is if you have really low infill and they all "sink in" rather than bonding properly.</p>
<p>Of course these gaps could also be caused by underextrusion or misplaced extrusion. Check instructions for enabling and calibrating Linear Advance/Pressure Advance on your printer for one of the big ingredients in fixing top gaps and related extrusion inaccuracy problems.</p>
|
2022-04-10T20:13:44.160 | |creality-ender-3|power-supply| | <p>I just bought and built a Creality Ender 3 V2. The last step of the setup is to flip this little yellow switch on the power supply to be either 115 V or 230 V. From my other research, I think that I have to flip the switch to 115 V because I live in the US. Since US standard outlets give 120 V of electricity and not 115 V, I am confused. Why is 115 V "correct" if the voltage I will supply is actually 120 V? Will this extra 5 volts burn out the printer?</p>
| 19219 | Creality Ender 3 V2 little yellow switch on power supply | <p>It won't burn it out. The voltage is between 110 to 125. Power supplies are designed to work in that range. So sometimes you'll see appliances rated for 110 V, 115 V, 120 V... they actually are all the same.</p>
|
2022-04-10T20:52:14.880 | |bed-leveling|adhesion|resin|elegoo-saturn| | <p>I am using an Elegoo Saturn S and have leveled the build plate per manufacturer's instructions a handful of times. However, I have yet to get a successful print except for the rook model that came with the printer and a couple <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Validation Matrix</a> prints, which are pretty thin. I've switched resins and am finding more luck with grey vs white. White always resulted in delamination at some point early in the print and supports not printing (even with thicker supports). Grey is printing alright for the most part but most of the raft falls off the build plate. There's just enough adhesion that the print does not outright fail (surprisingly) but a good 60%-70% of the raft is hanging loose. I had one print that could have finished and the current print is about half loose</p>
<p>I assume that this is a leveling issue, but as I said, I've leveled the bed numerous times. I bought a new build plate (to counteract another problem) and I've recently changed the FEP. It wasn't until this change and switching to grey resin that I've had any remote success. One thing I've noticed is that the resin pools more to the left side suggesting the work area is not level. Would this matter? I figured that if the build plate is level with the LCD, it shouldn't matter if everything is off. The angle seems to be about 2 or 3 degrees.</p>
<p>My current settings:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Bottom Layers:</strong> 5</li>
<li><strong>Bottom Exposure:</strong> 30 s (white resin adheres too well almost for bottom)</li>
<li><strong>Bottom Lift:</strong> 5 mm</li>
<li><strong>Normal Exposure:</strong> 2.5 or 3 s (monochrome LCD)</li>
<li><strong>Normal Lift:</strong> 4 mm</li>
<li><strong>Retract Speed:</strong> 70 mm/m (for both bottom and normal)</li>
<li><strong>Layer Thickness:</strong> 0.05 mm</li>
</ul>
<p>Originally sliced with ChituBox, but <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19222/chitubox-stopped-slicing-files-correctly">that stopped working</a> for some reason. Slicing with Lychee now.</p>
| 19221 | Does an uneven resin printer matter if the build plate is level with LCD? | <h2>Within reason, yes</h2>
<p>If you can't put the printer down 100 % even, that's ok. The most crucial thing is, that during the whole operation the resin level in the printer does never get over the edge of the print basin and that at the lowest level, everything is covered still. It's still better to settle the printer as even as possible.</p>
|
2022-04-11T10:00:15.477 | |print-quality| | <p>What are the real overhang limits? I see a lot online about 45 %, then up to 60 %, but I'm routinely doing them at up to 90 % for "shortish" distances and 80%+ for several centimeters at a time. I haven't tried to see how far I can do it, since I don't have filament to waste on that sort of thing.</p>
<p>It's making me wonder how believable all the YouTube and website experts are. Same thing with stringing, they all talk about it on Ender 3's but this print has been going for 25 hours and has maybe two tiny strings.</p>
<p>This is the second time I've printed this same STL with no supports.</p>
<ul>
<li>0.2 mm layer height</li>
<li>Ender 3 Pro</li>
<li>Generic PLA</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqHWF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqHWF.jpg" alt="Overhang" /></a></p>
| 19225 | Practical overhang limits | <p>"Real overhang limits" are hard to define. If you want <em>accurate extrusion</em>, such that precision parts fit together correctly or angled geometric surfaces that are supposed to be flat come out flat, each extrusion line must have at least some minimal portion of itself (probably including its center line) printed on top of and against existing material underneath that already has sufficient rigidity (both geometrically and in terms of cooling) not to deflect when printing against it. In this sense, the overhang angle is <code>arctan(lw * (1-k) / lh)</code> where <code>lh</code> is layer height, <code>lw</code> is line width (normally nozzle width), and <code>k</code> is the portion of overlap you demand. For example at 0.4 line width, 0.2 layer height, and 50% overlap, you get out exactly 45°.</p>
<p>If you just want the printed part to have basic structural integrity, things get a lot more fuzzy, and dependent on the geometry - particularly, the convexity/cocavity of any overhanging extrusions. Concave overhangs, like the inside of a spherical dome, will <em>quickly fail</em> as soon as you lose most or all of the overlap - expect them to hard-fail at <code>arctan(lw/lh)</code> (63° in 0.4/0.2 case) since the material will just be dragged inward around the curve with nothing to stick to. You might get a little bit more overhang if there's already a horizontally adjacent extrusion in the new layer for the material to stick to, but in my experience it will be unreliable.</p>
<p>Convex overhangs, on the other hand, can work out even when they're extreme. This is because the curvature of the toolhead path pulls the new material towards/against a region where it has existing material to bond to.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that layer height is a free parameter you can tune, that greatly increases the overhang available to you. Some slicers also have "adaptive layer height" settings to use thinner layers precisely in the layers that have severe overhangs. Line width is also a parameter you can tune, and increasing it works in your favor up to a point. But once you get to a point where the "wider than nozzle" line is attempted over thin air, it will fail badly, sagging down rather than expanding to the desired width, and not bonding to adjacent lines. So if you use wider lines to get better overhangs, you need to be very attentive not to go over angles that would place their centers off of the previous layer.</p>
|
2022-04-11T12:23:33.497 | |pla|post-processing|surface|stability| | <p>I made a hook recently that I put up with VHB tape. It fell off around 2 weeks later (the hook come loose from the tape). It's just a hook for an empty backpack, so let's say it is under medium load.</p>
<p>Every time I design something like this I wonder if it helps to roughen up the surface before applying the tape. I'd imagine that the tape grabs onto grooves made with a knife or sandpaper but I am not sure tbh. I've seen some videos where someone preheats the tape before applying it but without explaining why.</p>
<p>Does anyone know how that works best?</p>
| 19228 | Does VHB tape stick better on 3D prints if the surface is completely flat or roughed up? | <p>If you ook into the <a href="https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1732017O/3m-vhb-tape-design-guide-eu.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">VHB design document</a>, the section <em>"How to Prepare Specific Surfaces"</em> describes how to treat the surface:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/laL53.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/laL53.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>For higher adhesion, a primer should be used according to the document.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.can-dotape.com/resources/surface-preparation-to-ensure-a-successful-bond/#:%7E:text=In%20the%20majority%20of%20situations,before%20applying%20the%20adhesive%20tape." rel="nofollow noreferrer">This reference</a> describes that roughing up plastic parts can be beneficial for the adhesion of some tapes:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Abrade the Surface:</strong> Roughing up the surface (i.e. sanding) will loosen up any accumulated dirt, rust, or chipped paint. It will aid in the adhesion to painted surfaces or plastic items. A finely- abraded surface with shallow scratches created by a circular motion (rather than straight lines) has the best potential for a strong and persistent bond. This method can create up to a 40 % increase in surface area and can result in greater immediate and long-term bonding potential. Scrub pads, fine steel wool, or sandpaper can achieve the right level of abrasion. A palm sander could be helpful for larger jobs. Avoid using coarse abrasive materials because a too-rough substrate may inhibit the adhesive flow onto the surface. Always clean with the IPA/Water solution, or other solvents, and make sure all loose particles are removed. While it is not typical, some high-bond tapes adhere best to smooth, glassy surfaces, so double check with the manufacturer before you abrade the surface and compromise the bond strength.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Both references describe the use of a cleaning solution based on 50 % water and 50 % IPA.</p>
<hr />
<p>A higher temperature is beneficial for obtaining the bond strength faster, the VHB design document shows that increasing temperature shortens the time when the full bond strength is reached:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQL8G.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQL8G.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2022-04-15T13:32:31.390 | |print-quality| | <p>As an engineer I was initially interested in making parts. For example I designed and printed a better part for something which wasn't available locally, and even had a client who wanted 150 of them. But print time was 23 hours per part. and I didn't have full confidence in the robustness of the part. The layer lines are a big weakness and anything less than 3 mm is so flimsy that it's a waste of time. So robust performance parts are out. As are high tolerance ones. Build volume makes it even less useful. And the design compromises you have to make are difficult to justify if there are other ways.</p>
<p>Then with other network parts I thought of designing the vast majority needed other bits and pieces, screws, shafts, connectors in metal that I'd need to source and assemble. Enclosures were okay, but weak, and I can fabricate those stronger and faster in other ways.</p>
<p>So now I mainly just print to what I perceive to be 3D printings strengths and have almost given up on parts.</p>
<p>Has anyone had a different experience?</p>
| 19238 | Under what circumstances are 3D printed parts actually viable with a desktop printer in comparison to other production methods? | <p>I've only just started my journey in 3d printing, but I have a little hobbyist experience in other forms of "structural crafting". I can see a few ways you can use 3d printing to enhance other techniques - the main one being that a printed part can be used to make a mold, which you can then use to cast aluminum, bronze, or whatever else.</p>
|
2022-04-18T10:50:11.667 | |layer-height| | <p>I want to print out a flat object without any support structure straight onto the build plate of my ender 5. It's going to be PLA and I need it to be thin enough to still be flexible.</p>
<p>I don't have a picture available, but imagine that I wanted to print out the Coke Cola and then wrap it around a bland soda can, so that the logo is raised up slightly?</p>
<p>Alternatively, what is the best layer height to use, and how many layers should I use?</p>
| 19252 | How thin should I print a logo so that it is flexible enough to wrap around a curved object? | <p><strong>1 layer, of whatever thickness your device can print.</strong></p>
<p>I did something like this to print letters for a flat sign. The letters were 1mm thick and didn't bend, but I'd accidentally printed quite a lot of brim lines which were a single layer thick, and they'd merged into each other.</p>
<p>The brim worked superbly as a "net" to hold the letters in place, so in theory you could print as little as one layer thick.</p>
<ul>
<li>Nozzle height will have to be exactly right to merge the lines together. There are no lines crossing-over on the next layer to help bond them all together.</li>
<li>Let the print bed cool to ambient before removing it from the bed, to help keep the lines connected. Could take an hour or so.</li>
<li>Use a wide flat scraper to pull job off bed - you might want to design in a "tab" that can be damaged while getting the tool started, and trimmed of later.</li>
</ul>
|
2022-04-19T01:43:10.483 | |build-plate|build-surface|pei| | <p>Will build surfaces coated in PEI lose their qualities, such as adhesiveness, if left unused but removed from packaging for long periods of time?</p>
| 19256 | Do unused PEI sheets degrade over time? | <p>The PEI will be fine. It's widely used in industrial high impact, high heat and high repetitiveness parts because it doesn't degrade easily. Probably some in your car.</p>
|
2022-04-20T10:18:24.720 | |cost|services| | <p>I'm trying to figure out if it's worth buying a 3D printer or using an online printing service like e.g. <a href="https://treddy.it" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a> in the long run. Anyone have any cost analysis?</p>
| 19267 | Advantages of buying a 3D printer versus using online services | <p>It is probably cheaper for a business to order 3D prints than to pay an employee to get up to speed, unless that business is doing new designs regularly. This is especially true if the parts need to look professional, or need to use challenging materials (like anything other than PLA, PETG, maybe TPU).</p>
<p>If the business does buy a 3D printer, it can be economical to get a more prosumer model, than to pay an employee to futz with a consumer printer to coax good print quality out of it, or spend additional time modifying it- a 300 dollar printer can turn into a 1500 dollar printer with enough things going wrong or needing to be upgraded.</p>
<p>When evaluating the true price of an in house 3D printed part to a business, it’s important to include employee time interacting with the machine and post processing: file prep, slicing software work, prepping bed, loading filament, preheating bed, watching the first layer go down. Oh wait, it got messed up? Start again. Once printing, time spent checking in on it, then time spent unloading filament, hand post processing (trimming a brim, removing goobers, zits, strings, drilling out precision holes). It is a hands on process, especially with consumer machines. Producing parts on the clock, I figure between 40 minutes (everything runs perfect) to two hours (Murphy’s law) of human interaction for a one-off part. Batches of more than one can be less, I had little clam shell enclosures done in batches of 6 come out to about 45 minutes of labor apiece to the company, ultimately (once 3D printer was dialed in).</p>
<p>Another factor of overhead is a 3D printer needs a space for it to live.
-Near ventilation if using noxious materials
-with enough table space to have a computer near it, and some hand tools, and a clear area to post process the parts
-away from employees bothered by the sound
-where it can be checked on easily
-where it doesn’t get cold in the winter, to the point where low ambient temperatures cause warping</p>
<p>Note, some of these space requirements can be sidestepped by printers with prosumer features: WiFi transfer of gcode to the machine (computer doesn’t need to be near printer), full insulated enclosures (cold ambient temperature resistance and less noise) with air filtration (may not need ventilation for fumes).</p>
<p>Business ownership of a 3D printer can be a waste if there isn’t someone on staff that is mechanically inclined and can use a CAD package. Without CAD skill prints are limited to what independent contractors design for the company (and who may themselves own their own 3D printer), or things that can be downloaded from the internet.</p>
<p>As an asset, it can be difficult to sell a 3D printer for anywhere near what it is worth, especially with aftermarket modifications. They are large and heavy and delicate so local sales are preferred over shipping, which severely restricts the market, especially outside urban areas.</p>
<p>Not a business? Time on your hands? Go for it.</p>
|
2022-04-26T19:45:35.450 | |octoprint|raspberry-pi|wi-fi| | <p>I recently installed Octopi on my Raspberry Pi 4 and noticed some unusual behavior in that I lose the Wifi connection every 5-10 minutes immediately after boot. Once disconnected, I cannot re-establish the connection because my network's SSID doesn't even appear in the network list anymore. The only way I can re-establish the connection is to reboot the device.</p>
<p>With that said, I did find a troubleshooting discussion of similar problems at octoprint.org: <a href="https://community.octoprint.org/t/octopi-losing-network-connection-mid-print/16315" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPi losing network connection mid-print</a>.</p>
<p>Following the various advice, I must have tried about 12 different things, but none of them have fixed my issue. At first, I thought that wifi power-save mode was the most likely culprit. <code>iw wlan0 get power_save</code> indicated that power-save mode was turned on, but then I turned it off with <code>iw wlan0 set power_save off</code> and the wifi <em>still</em> disconnects.</p>
<p>Going a step further, I set up a script to run the <code>iw</code> command right after boot so that the change is made permanent, but that didn't work either.</p>
<p>Other troubleshooting attempts I tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Verified there is adequate power</li>
<li>Configured with settings for hidden
SSID (even though mine is not hidden)</li>
<li>Set up a reconnection script
that doesn't work because it can't find the network</li>
<li>Properly set up
regional settings</li>
</ul>
<p>I am at my wit's end.</p>
<p>As for my setup, I have an 8 GB Raspberry Pi 4 and am using an image of OctoPi 0.18.0 with OctoPrint 1.7.3. This I downloaded and imaged onto a 128 GB micro-SD card using the Raspberry Pi Imager. My wifi network is 2.5 GHz secured with WPA2 with a visible SSID and is definitely within close range. One way that I know that it is not a hardware issue is because I have another image with the Raspberry Pi OS 64-bit version and wifi works just fine when I run that.</p>
<p>As for Octopi, one atypical difference is that I <em>am</em> running it with a desktop. It may be that, for whatever reason, perhaps that particular distribution of RPi OS has a major bug in it? If so, then maybe I do have a solution, but I don't want to run without a desktop because I have a nice setup on my 3D printer that includes a touch screen. Given that is the case, could I maybe use the 64-bit Raspberry Pi OS and just load OctoPrint onto it with <code>sudo apt-get [package-name]</code> or something like that?</p>
<p>Any additional troubleshooting advice is much appreciated, but I suspect that not much else will work. I am not a greenhorn when it comes to linux-bases systems, but this is my first time trying out an image using Octopi.</p>
| 19300 | Wifi goes down in Octoprint after 5-10 minutes with reboot required to reconnect | <p>I think I have a solution for this. Please follow the steps mentioned in this <a href="https://github.com/gpokhark/Octopi_Setting" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Github page of mine</a> for the Wifi connectivity issue. I rarely have any issues with the wifi signal dropping randomly.</p>
<hr />
<p>Wi-Fi connectivity issue</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Ensure that you have set up a static IP address for your Raspberry Pi.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Ensure that the command <code>sudo ifconfig wlan0 up</code> and <code>sudo ifconfig wlan0 down</code> works without the user password requirement.</p>
</li>
<li><p>To run the aforementioned commands without a password, do the following steps:</p>
<pre><code>sudo nano /etc/sudoers.d/010_pi-nopasswd
</code></pre>
<ul>
<li><p>Add the following line to the file</p>
<pre><code>pi ALL=(ALL) NOPASSWD: /sbin/ifconfig wlan0 up, /sbin/ifconfig wlan0 down
</code></pre>
<p>Here <code>pi</code> indicates the username of the Raspberry; update it as per your name.</p>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><p>Try running the commands <code>sudo ifconfig wlan0 up</code> and <code>sudo ifconfig wlan0 down</code>, it shouldn't ask for a password.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Beware before running the previous command ensure that you have not recently typed the password for any other <code>sudo</code> command or else try this in a new terminal.</p>
</li>
<li><p>To know more about this search the command <code>sudo visudo</code></p>
</li>
</ul>
<p><code>check_wifi.sh</code> - script to check if Raspberry Pi is still connected to the wifi or not. If not then it restarts the wlan0.</p>
<pre><code>#!/bin/sh
# keep wifi alive
if ping -c3 192.168.0.1 #router ip address
then
echo "......"
echo "No network connection, restarting wlan0"
sudo ifconfig wlan0 down
sleep 30
sudo ifconfig wlan0 up
else
echo "Wifi working normally."
fi
</code></pre>
<ul>
<li><p>Add a cron job to check the WiFi connectivity every 5 minutes - <code>sudo crontab -e</code></p>
<pre><code># cron job for checking the wifi connection every 5 minutes
*/5 * * * * /home/pi/Octopi_Setting/check_wifi.sh > /dev/null 2>&1
</code></pre>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Additional resources:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/linux-show-what-cron-jobs-are-setup/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to list, display and view all cron jobs in Linux</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/how-do-i-add-jobs-to-cron-under-linux-or-unix-oses/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How To Add Jobs To cron Under Linux or UNIX</a></li>
<li><a href="https://forums.fedoraforum.org/showthread.php?180471-Editing-sudoers-to-allow-ifconfig-only-on-certain-interfaces" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Editing sudoers to allow ifconfig only on certain interfaces</a></li>
<li><a href="https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/163347/add-test-user-to-the-sudoers-file-to-run-ifconfig">Add test user to the sudoers file, to run ifconfig</a></li>
</ul>
|
2022-04-26T20:10:26.357 | |extruder|bed-leveling|stepper|belt|longer-lk5| | <p>I need to print parts that fit together very well on the Longer LK5 Pro. However, after printing a Benchy, I noticed that whatever I print has a lot of imperfections. Is there any way I can fix this? All I know about the printing conditions was that I was printing at 230 °C nozzle temperature with 60 °C bed temperature. I was using PLA+. I was also printing the Benchy file that comes with the Longer LK5 printer. I tried tightening the Y-axis belt, that moves the bed, and the wheels on the bottom of the bed.</p>
<p>Here are pictures of my Benchy:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7a2T.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Top View"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7a2T.jpg" alt="Top view" title="Top View" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cm7Jt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Left hand side view"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cm7Jt.jpg" alt="Side view" title="Left hand side view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYNXx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Bottom view"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYNXx.jpg" alt="Bottom view" title="Bottom view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KTtu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Right hand side view"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KTtu.jpg" alt="Right hand side view" title="Right hand side view" /></a></p>
| 19301 | How to tune Longer LK5 Pro for smoother prints? | <p>Just got an LK5 and printed the included Benchy gcode. It looks pretty similar to the benchy in the pics with some of the blobs in the same location. Then I downloaded the benchy from Thingiverse and sliced it with the Longer 1.3 Slicer. Pretty good results from doing that but it took longer to print.</p>
|
2022-04-28T12:45:04.880 | |pla|metal-printing| | <p>I have a very eccentric, weird, unusual and strange idea. I need some advice and serious professional help.</p>
<p>I'm interested in 3D printing in PLA a hollow complex structure with 0.2 thickness walls (Yes! That thin!). Fill it with very fine copper powder with a little borax powder thoroughly mixed. Use superglue to join halves or other shell pieces together, making sure the powder is very well compacted. Then in a separate container I want to make some thin plaster of Paris (calcium sulfate with a lot of water). Mix in it, some of my trimmed hair (about 5mm in length). No joke. Seriously. Please, I'm begging you with all my heart, hear me out! There's a very good useful reason for doing it. I then place the object (3D printed flimsy crappy shell filled with copper powder) in a DIY drywall box and pour in the plaster over the 3D printed shell object until the box is filled and object completely covered. Leave it to dry and completely solidify for a day. Then I bake the entire thing in a furnace making sure I'm over the copper melting temperature and voila! 3D printing in copper very complex intricate models with ease. Can it be that easy? Or am I deluding myself?
The hair purpose, after it will burn inside the plaster while in the furnace, is to create very thin tubules or air holes for water and gases to escape and to prevent cracking of the plaster under intense heat. I don't want to use hay because the straws are too thick. I have to use very thin organic straws. I just can't think of anything more accessible than my hair. Do you know of something even thinner and more accessible than human hair? Please let me know. I know it sounds and looks very odd, weird and strange. I'm opened to alternatives or other suggestions, otherwise I wouldn't be here making a fool of myself with such an insane ridiculous idea.</p>
<p>I was thinking to add some form of additional volume above the object, which is connected to the model by some thin hollow tube. All this volume (like an empty cube (shell) ) will also be filled with very fine copper powder providing additional melted copper to the model, in the case if the powder was not very well compacted inside the shell model.</p>
<p>Could this absurd ridiculous insane crazy idea work? I have never heard of anything like this. This is so bizarre and strange. It seems to be some form of odd mix of multiple techniques. But besides all this, will it work in the end? Will the plaster hold while some of it(depends on the model) will be inside molten copper? Or do I have to mix in the plaster, not just hair, but also some individual singular fine strands of steel wool?</p>
<p>I don't know who and where to ask such a thing. Am I in the right place? I don't know what this idea is, I don't know how to name it, I don't know how to ask or formulate this idea, I don't know how to google it or search it. I don't know anything. I really need some guidance, help and advice.</p>
| 19306 | The weirdest DIY 3D metal printing | <p>I don't see why it wouldn't work. It doesn't seem to be the optimal way but I haven't tried it.</p>
<p>Only thing that might be an issue is that PLA doesn't burn away clean (not for me anyway) which can leave defects in the product. But there are filaments specifically made for casting which apparently burn away with no residue.</p>
<p>This is assuming you can actually successfully print a complex object with walls that thin.</p>
|
2022-05-02T15:45:28.323 | |repair|print-preparation| | <p>I build and export my model using ZBrush and as STL files.<br />
To fix the mesh for 3D print, I try to use 3D Builder which can automatically repair my parts.<br />
As it saves as a single file, if I import all parts at once,<br />
I import the files one by one, repair them, then save them as a new file.<br />
After all the parts were repaired, I import all parts to see the result<br />
but find some repaired parts' positions shifted.<br />
How should I handle these issues?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/01xRd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Rendering of 3D model with parts shifted from original position"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/01xRd.png" alt="Rendering of 3D model with parts shifted from original position" title="Rendering of 3D model with parts shifted from original position" /></a></p>
| 19320 | 3D Builder: position shifted after auto repair | <p>I came across this thread as I was facing the exact same issue. I am also using 3D Builder to repair my STLs before 3D printing them.</p>
<p>The previous answers were however not sufficient (for me) so I went on a trial-and-error spree to determine what was happening, I think I found the answer! (hope that you can still use it!)</p>
<p>An STL file has certain characteristics regarding its location (origin point): X, Y, Z and rotational for the same axes. When you import one or multiple STL files in the 3D builder, it keeps all of these origin points except for the z axis, it automatically places the model/models on the bed so that the lowest point in your (combined) model has a point of Z = 0.</p>
<p>To ensure that all your parts have the same "origin point" you should import the model all at once and then remove all parts except for one. Then, auto-repair it and save it under a certain name.</p>
<p>For example: You have a combined file consisting of three parts.</p>
<ul>
<li>Import parts 1-3 → remove parts 2 and 3 → repair remaining part 1 → save as part 1</li>
<li>Import parts 1-3 → remove parts 1 and 3 → repair remaining part 2 → save as part 2</li>
<li>Import parts 1-3 → remove parts 1 and 2 → repair remaining part 3 → save as part 3</li>
</ul>
<p>You now have a repaired model for all parts and their origin points should all be the same!</p>
|
2022-05-03T15:49:01.490 | |filament-choice| | <p>I have an old notebook computer that works just fine, but the outside of the lid is badly damaged and needs to be replaced. The screen and wiring are fine, so I only need to replace the housing that is exposed to the outside world.</p>
<p><strong>What is the best filament for an impact-resistant printed housing?</strong> Should I consider other options that may prevent damage to the internal components? Are there any alternatives with cosmetic benefits?</p>
<p>Edit:
Since I was asked, presume I may be willing to buy a new part to upgrade or accommodate a new filament type.</p>
| 19326 | Best filament to print the housing for a laptop? | <p>For casings I use a combination of TPU and PETG or PLA. PETG shell gives it rigidity and TPU gives it a bit of impact protection. So corners and inside layers of TPU within a hard PETG or PLA shell (shell has no corners).</p>
<p>I haven't had a problem with either but obviously PLA won't withstand heat very well, so it depends on environment.</p>
<p>For a laptop case you'd maybe want to do it the other way around with the outside shell of TPU and inside layers of PETG for rigidity.</p>
|
2022-05-04T03:00:20.000 | |bed-leveling|bltouch|creality-cr-10| | <p>The printer is a Creality CR-10 S5.</p>
<p>Marlin 2.0.7.2</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5luW.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5luW.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhIm2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhIm2.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x5Zln.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x5Zln.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6xFN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6xFN.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Here is the highest point.<br />
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ek7kX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ek7kX.png" alt="high point right side" /></a></p>
<p>Deepest valley<br />
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjxbL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjxbL.png" alt="deep valley back" /></a></p>
<p>Further the leveling screws on the right X0,0 and X=0, Y=467 are barely at the very bottom of the screw. The ones on the left side are cranked super tight nearly at the maximum tightness. The BLTouch is doing a 10x10 grid so the resolution is pretty high.</p>
<p>Any suggestions as to how to get it flatter? Does anyone else have this issue and resolve it?</p>
<p>I can print with a raft. Any way to confirm if my bed is actually this bad or sensor glitch. I obviously can't see at sub-millimeter levels with my eyes.</p>
<p>Could this be an issue with the Z-axis?</p>
<p>So here are the wheel pictures:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1SzCi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1SzCi.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YON7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YON7.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DP9vu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DP9vu.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBcV8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WBcV8.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So, I changed the wheels, and re-leveled. I got this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aMBB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aMBB.png" alt="after" /></a>
Except for about 1 cm of the corner opposite the red side it is level enough to print on.</p>
| 19333 | Bed leveling suggestions given this mesh generated by BLTouch | <h1>Understanding the pattern</h1>
<p>Indeed, it looks like the error is induced by the X-Axis, as the pattern is very uniform over the Y-axis. The most likely reason for such an error is either damage to the rail, or damage to the motion system using the rail.</p>
<p>Damage to the rail would either be a deformed or a deep spot in it.</p>
<p>However, in your case, it is quite easily the wheels being worn down on the leading and lower roller while the trailing one does show to be not pressed against the rail properly. As a result, the print head can possibly might either tilt a little or the contact surfaces of the wheel might no longer run perfectly concentric with the wheel's hub itself and the printhead. In both cases, the head does a little wave dance around the ideal Z-position.</p>
<p>I would try to tighten the rollers, and in either case swap them out for spares.</p>
<h2>After re-fitting</h2>
<p>The new mesh leveling tells me that the back right corner needs to go down quite some (about a millimeter) and the whole left can go up a little. The front right looks about right, maybe a little on the low end, but not too much. A BL-touch printer still needs leveling in itself.</p>
|
2022-05-04T22:30:40.983 | |print-fan| | <p>I recently broke the cooling fan on my Voxelab Aquila while doing some maintenance, and I'm in the middle of a multi piece print that I would like to finish soon. I found the fan replacement I need, but it's not going to arrive for over a week. I was wondering if it would be ok to print a few things with the broken fan, or if that would be bad for the motor or anything else.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wC69.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wC69.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Kvm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Kvm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 19340 | Can I Print With a Fan Missing 3 Blades? | <p>I think you'll get weird print artifacts and strange surface errors.</p>
<p>The fan is not balanced and will buzz. This added vibration could be seen as an effect in the finish.</p>
<p>Personally I'd suggest patience and wait for the replacement to arrive before continuing. Or scavenge a suitable fan from something else in the meantime.</p>
|
2022-05-07T02:55:07.467 | |knowledgebase| | <p>Most of the guides I can find are just canned responses to specific questions. Instead I'm looking for something meant to teach good fundamental understanding and core needed skills. Beginner's guides are common in other hobbies but I am having trouble finding one for 3d printing.</p>
| 19353 | Has anyone written a primer for hobbyists new to 3D printing? | <p>Here's a brief outline I threw out in chat once. I'm marking this as a "community Wiki" answer so feel free to edit.</p>
<p>It is not a full Primer, so should date better than a Word6.0 manual.</p>
<hr />
<p>Start by reading the instructions that came with your printer. There's a high chance that some assembly is required, and if you get something wrong then things may nor work right later. Some brands come complete, some are better than others in this regard. Take your time.</p>
<p>For most people, they spend the first couple of weeks failing prints for multiple reasons. For me it was bed levelling and getting the first layer-adhesion, and filament tension.</p>
<p>So work on getting the bed levelled, work out how much gluestick or tape your filament needs to work, and what temperatures work in your environment.</p>
<p>I use 210 °C on the hotend for PLA+ and 60 °C bed temp, though others get away with 190 °C on the hotend and 50 °C on the bed. My printer is in a garage though.</p>
<p>Try and print a 20 mm cube or a benchy.</p>
<p>After that, explore <a href="http://thingiverse.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://thingiverse.com</a> or <a href="http://thangs.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://thangs.com</a> looking for pre-made stuff that you would benefit from. Start small.</p>
<p>The Grab Toy Infinite is a great starter - it's very forgiving about tolerances, and kids like it. Expect rough handling to break it.</p>
<p>When you're happy printing other people's things, identify some needs of your own. In fact, make up a document / draught email / notepad of ideas of things to print. I add stuff to mine all the time.</p>
<p>When you've got a need that no one else can fill, you can start designing your own item and do the whole</p>
<pre><code>idea --> ||: (re)design --> implement --> test --> curse :|| success!! loop.
</code></pre>
<p>Many people bang on about expensive fancy software, but you can make a perfectly adequate part using <a href="http://tinkercad.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://tinkercad.com/</a> as a grounding.</p>
<p>For example, I had too many spare hacksaw blades and none of the "holders" I could buy were perfect, nor even close. Here's my output:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9yQMmxRv4Lz-spare-hacksaw-blade-holder" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9yQMmxRv4Lz-spare-hacksaw-blade-holder</a></p>
<p>Like many things in making, expect to fail and learn and do it again.</p>
<p>Sometimes it looks like we buy printers to print things for the printers for printing things for the printers...repeat.</p>
<p>Look for needs in your life and design something to fill them. It's most satisfying.</p>
<p>There's a huge gap between Functional prints, which do a job, and pretty prints which are just to look nice.</p>
<p>Functional things are great - you can therefore justify the cost of more printer upgrades. LOOK AT ALL THE MONEY WE SAVED!</p>
<p>But overall enjoy yourself and the time you spend making things.</p>
|
2022-05-08T04:23:23.410 | |3d-models|rapid-prototyping| | <p>Looking to print a new part for a home appliance. There's going to need to be a new model created with the customizations made, but the model (after printing) will have to fit where the old part was. Is there any 3D modeling software that is better for this purpose? Will I just have to guess at proper proportions and hand-adjust the scaling of each dimension and angle through trial and error until a version fits?</p>
| 19359 | Best way to make a new model for custom part printing? | <h1>Use a CAD software</h1>
<p>Whenever you need to make a part fit given dimensions, it is best to set those. There are tons of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer-aided_design" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Computer Aided Design</a> software packages around, starting at free and ending at thousands a year for a single PC license. There are so many, that <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_computer-aided_design_software" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wikipedia made a comparison list</a></p>
<p><a href="https://all3dp.com/1/best-free-cad-software-2d-3d-cad-programs-design/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">all3Dp</a> always curates a list of free 3D software. Among them, I can point to the following as options:</p>
<ul>
<li>I personally prefer Fusion 360 by Autodesk, which is quite powerful but slightly cut down in the free version. It is known to produce very good exportable designs but has a somewhat steep learning curve. It also allows parametric designs, very valuable if you need to customize items.</li>
<li>Onshape is similar to Fusion 360 in that Hobbyists get it free, but it is browser-based, making it possibly easier accessible. It is a full-powered CAD suite, including parametric design.</li>
<li>FreeCAD might not be as powerful or fancy as Fusion360 and Onshape, but it is a solid, well-working CAD package. It has also a somewhat easier learning curve than the likes. It allows entering OpenSCAD code, which means, you can add mathematic formulae to design your part.</li>
<li>OpenSCAD is the absolute barebone, but absolutely parametric. It takes mathematical descriptions of bodies to design them - which is hard to learn and master but allows to create some very intricate mathematical models.</li>
<li>SketchUp Free has a dubious reputation among printing enthusiasts, as its STL solutions at times have inverted surfaces.</li>
</ul>
<p>Not on the curated list of all3dp is one entry I personally worked with and which is somewhat potent but easy to use:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DesignSpark Mechanical</a> is a derivative of the powerful Ansys Space Claim CAD software and is offered for free. It is <em>somewhat</em> limited though.</li>
</ul>
|
2022-05-10T00:29:00.807 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|extruder|motor| | <p>Should I be able to hand turn the stepper motor for the extruder of an Ender 3?</p>
<p>Trying to figure out why the motor isn’t turning on a new to me, never used, but out-of-warranty Ender 3.</p>
<p>Swapping controller cables I discovered the extruder port on the motherboard is dead, but even if I put it on the X axis and manually move the axis it makes the sound like it should move, but doesn’t actually move at all.</p>
<p>Trying to figure out if it’s seized or something. Doing a resistance test with a multimeter shows a resistance of 4 for either of the two pairs of wires. I am not sure what else to test.</p>
<p>I have a hard time believing I need a new control board and a new stepper motor, but maybe two things are broke.</p>
<p>Thanks for the help!</p>
<hr />
<h2>EDIT - Got the Extruder Working</h2>
<p>After the comments here mentioned that "Yes, it should be able to be moved by hand", curiosity got the better of me and I said, "Well, if its broken, let's see why".</p>
<p>I did the following:</p>
<ol>
<li>I tried to turn the stepper motor by hand again, just to confirm I wasn't crazy from the day before when I tried it. It wouldn't budge.</li>
<li>I removed all four screws on the bottom of the stepper motor and attempted to pry things apart. While fiddling with it, I thought I saw the stepper motor turn.</li>
<li>Sure enough, I now tried to spin the stepper motor and it moved relatively easily.</li>
<li>I put the 4 screws back in place and validated I could still hand turn the motor. I could in fact do so.</li>
<li>I hooked the stepper motor back up to the X axis controller and told it to move, and sure enough now it moves and works!</li>
<li>Just as a sanity check, I then hooked it up to the extruder controller and it again wouldn't turn.</li>
</ol>
<p>I'm going to try what @towe recommended to make sure the controller board is in fact fried, but I <em>think</em> I might JUST have a fried board and not a fried motor.</p>
| 19363 | Ender 3: Extruder Stepper Motor - Hand Turn | <p>Criggie's answer is basically correct, but I disagree with the conclusion that it:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Could be expensive - you might want to compare cost of parts with cost of a new printer, remembering there may be other non-functional components still undiscovered.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>If you want to turn the Ender 3 into a decent printer, the controller board is one of the components you want to replace anyway, since it comes with either (old models) extremely loud and poorly performing A4988 stepper drivers or (newer models) TMC2208 stepper drivers hard-wired in a mode where they don't work well and malfunction if you enable Linear Advance (which is critical to getting decent prints on a bowden extruder system). Good boardsthat are exact fits for the housing and cable connectors, with TMC2209 steppers that lack the above problems, can be had for $35 or so.</p>
<p>If the motor is dead, that's a pain but not expensive to replace. Equivalent motors are available for $15 or so all over the place, or you could make the upgrade to a light-weight geared direct drive extruder with pancake stepper instead of the large NEMA 17 (which negates pretty much all of the disadvantages of direct drive and gives you a much better printer than you started with).</p>
|
2022-05-10T15:31:32.807 | |creality-ender-3|maintenance| | <p>I need to check the belts on my Ender 3 to confirm they are properly set up, functioning, and undamaged. How do I go about doing this?</p>
| 19367 | How do I check the belts on my Ender 3? | <p>Loosen the screws holding the far right hand side of the belt cog in place on the gantry, tighten the belt by moving the cog outwards until the belt looks horizontal, tighten the screws back up and test. It's a pretty intuitive procedure.</p>
<p>To see if the belt is OK, just visually inspect it. It's just a belt, if it has splits or something then it has issues.</p>
|
2022-05-12T15:32:38.177 | |3d-models|blender| | <p>Blender software has a nice mesh analysis add-on called ”3D Print Toolbox". It is making us give it a second look for our 3D printing workflow.</p>
<p>On the other hand, MeshLab is very nice to have mesh repair tools.</p>
<p>I see the errors in the Blender, and then I close the program. And then I open MeshLab and make the corrections. The goal is to produce the model with a 3D printer.</p>
<p>Is there a possibility to do the analysis in MeshLab as well? How?</p>
| 19378 | Blender add-on "3D Print Toolbox" and MeshLab | <p>Meshlab has a bunch of tools for that under 'Filters', you'd need to read the documentation for specifics as your needs may vary from model to model.</p>
<p>But it's much the same as the Blender addon with the 'Cleaning and Repairing' options to merge vertices, close holes etc,.</p>
|
2022-05-17T08:14:10.560 | |creality-ender-3|octoprint|jyers| | <p>I'm using an Ender 3 v2 with Jyers firmware.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a firmware / OctoPrint plugin which allows browsing G-codes stored in my OctoPrint storage and starting them directly from my printer's screen like it's stored on SD card. I would like to have all advantages that OctoPrint provides but not need to use my computer/smartphone to start printing.</p>
<p>Is there any way to do this?</p>
| 19390 | Browsing and printing print files (G-code) stored in OctoPrint from printer's screen | <p>Accessing the print files stored on OctoPrint managed locations other than the SD card (i.e. where OctoPrint is installed; RPi or laptop, etc.) is not possible.</p>
<p>The other way around is possible, you can access SD stored codes from OctoPrint. This is possible because the there are M-codes in place to list the files on the SD-card (<a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M20:_List_SD_card" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M20: List SD card</a>) or handle files to load and start them.</p>
<p>To access files from the printer UI to an external storage space would require many information on where it can get the files, through which connection; there are no M-codes in place to do that. Basically you are either printing from OctoPrint or from the printer. You state that: <code>I would like to have all advantages that OctoPrint provides but not need to use my computer/smartphone to start printing</code>, how would that be possible if the printer itself initiates the print? OctoPrint is a print manager, it sends your G-code line by line to the printer, you are requesting to start a print from the print manager through a command on the printer itself. If you want OctoPrint managed prints to benefit from the plug-ins, you need to start the print using your phone or a browser. Personally, I never look or use the printer display on my OctoPrint managed printers, you don't need the display if OctoPrint is able to present all the data to you through a browser.</p>
|
2022-05-21T10:35:36.947 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|stringing|gridfinity| | <p>I recently had a print failure/crash, where the print stuck to the nozzle and forced molten filament back into the print head, fans, and heater block.</p>
<p>I changed the nozzle for a new 0.4mm same as existing. I shortened the bowden tube by ~8mm to remove some crispiness, and the push-lock connector on top of the print head, which was full of solidified PLA.</p>
<p>The hotend was scraped clean of PLA, and the wiring was inspected. The silicon sock was unhappy but I managed to get it to stay in place.</p>
<p>The part-cooling fan duct was deformed, but I have reshaped it as well as I could. The part-cooling air is probably slightly less than it was.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eDR7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eDR7.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I'm printing some Gridfinity bins, and the base just isn't filling in completely and there is also more stringiness.</p>
<p>The sides are not joining up at all, and are just a series of separate strands. They do merge somewhat at the corners.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1Rrx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1Rrx.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>My printer worked much better before the crash - what do I have to focus on to improve this?</p>
<p>All print jobs since the reassembly are lower in quality, with one in three showing these large "wire bundles" look but all of them are not as good as before-prints.</p>
| 19409 | What's causing this lack of layer adhesion after a crash? | <h1>SOLVED!</h1>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUYR7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUYR7.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Turns out I hadn't pushed the bowden tube completely home into the hotend on the print head. So there was a space where molten plastic was spreading out, interfering with both extrusion and retraction.</p>
<p>I've flipped the bowden tube end-for-end now, and my test job is well-underway.</p>
|
2022-05-21T23:13:51.640 | |3d-design| | <p>I have a 1.5 inch screen, and I would like to create an adjustable angle plate for the screen, similar to Game boy advanced (shown below)</p>
<p>Does anyone know how the mechanism works?
By any chance, is there an adjustable connector that I can put on a 3D printed part to make an adjustable angle plate?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7A5wF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7A5wF.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 19414 | Adjustable Angle for a 1.5 inch OLED screen | <p>You'll need to design a hinge in two parts, probably with a third and fourth part as a cover.</p>
<p>The unit holds position by friction, so it will get sloppier with use as the plastic wears, or you may want to use a metal shaft and bushings. This will also be affected by the mass of the screen and the torque onto the hinge.</p>
<p>From your image, you can clearly see which hoops in the hinge are part of the top and which are coming up from the bottom.</p>
<p>The ribbon cable will pass between the lower and upper in the middle where the two wide hoops are, and not through the ends which will provide the bulk of the support.</p>
<hr />
<p>If you want to make a case exactly like this, then consider buying a shell instead. The ifixit step-by-step instructions at <a href="https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Game+Boy+Advance+SP++Shell+Replacement/137582" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Game+Boy+Advance+SP++Shell+Replacement/137582</a> are clear and helpful for a complete organ-transplant.</p>
<p>The hinge/clutch mechanism used in these is a marvel, you're unlikely to be able to print one without a lot of trial & error, and looks like:<br></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWkWN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWkWN.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<br> From
<a href="https://console5.com/store/game-boy-advance-sp-hinge-replacement-case-hinge.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://console5.com/store/game-boy-advance-sp-hinge-replacement-case-hinge.html</a></p>
<p>However people have designed GBA cases - search your favourite STL websites for relevant links. You may be able to find a case someone else has already designed and done debug.</p>
<p>Potentially useful tool <a href="https://3dmixers.com/m/275635-gba-sp-hinge-removal-tool-with-handle" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://3dmixers.com/m/275635-gba-sp-hinge-removal-tool-with-handle</a></p>
|
2022-05-24T09:33:41.747 | |troubleshooting|z-axis|resin| | <p>Printer: Elegoo Mars 3 LCD Resin Printer</p>
<p>I have a similar problem to this question, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18583/first-bottom-layers-not-printing">First / bottom layers not printing?</a> and this issue on Reddit, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/otkln2/elegoo_saturn_squishing_bottom_layers_together/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Elegoo Saturn Squishing Bottom Layers Together - Models Too Short</a>.</p>
<p>I am trying to print an object that is a cylinder with an engraving on it (the cylinder is not very high though, - it looks like the cylinder shown in this question on SE.Blender, <a href="https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/262301/how-can-i-engrave-this-text-on-the-side-of-this-cylinder-without-changing-the-s">How can I engrave this Text on the side of this cylinder (without changing the style of the font)?</a>):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSi6T.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Similar cylinder"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fSi6T.png" alt="Similar cylinder" title="Similar cylinder" /></a></p>
<p>The cylinder is about 3.6 mm high only. It has an engraving on the side of it.</p>
<p>I haven't printed with supports but directly on the built plate (similar to the rook model Elegoo gives). The problem is that the first layers are not printed properly (it cuts off the engraving). This results in a reduction in the height of the cylinder.</p>
<p>Any solutions for how the first layers could come out properly?</p>
| 19428 | Resin LCD print not printing first layers properly, resulting in a reduction of the height of the object | <p>This is a known issue with printing directly on the build plate. The first few layers have to be cured for much longer than the rest of the layers in order to ensure that the model adheres properly to the build plate. This causes the layers to be thinner but wider. Often resulting in a slight brim around your model (Called an Elephant's foot in some circles).</p>
<p>Normally you would use a skate or raft and supports, so the distortion wouldn't be to the model itself.</p>
<p>You could reduce the number of bottom layers in your slicer, and reduce the exposure time, which will give you much closer to your expected height, but it may require a lot of trial and error printing to find the right settings for your printer. I think that some people have made calculators to help with this, or you could try to find a torture calibration model to help you find your optimum settings.</p>
<p>Personally, as a person who make models for printing, I would recommend that you changed the dimensions of your model, rather than changing your printer settings.</p>
<p>I often make the parts of my models that are in contact with the base slightly thicker, but with a slight bevel to the edge to allow for expansion (Elephant foot) , then I simply sand down the extra after printing till the model is of the desired size.</p>
<p>Again, this is mostly a matter of trial and error.</p>
|
2022-05-27T23:36:42.800 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|troubleshooting|thermal-runaway| | <p>I have an Ender 3 Pro with the BTT SKR E3 V2.0 mini with Marlin firmware 2.0.8.2.x.
I am trying to print PETG, which requires decently high temperatures.</p>
<p>I initially replaced the stock board after a thermal runaway event that seemed to have damaged it. After installing the new board and getting all the settings dialed in (typically 260 °C hotend and 90 °C bed), it worked great for about 2 weeks until I got the thermal runaway event error again.</p>
<p>Here is what I have tried so far</p>
<ul>
<li>replaced the thermistor with <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08YNX79H8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a></li>
<li>replaced the heating cartridge with <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HGIMI2G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a></li>
<li>replaced the hotend with <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09Y8VY5J8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> an all-metal one</li>
<li>measured voltage coming from the power supply and coming out of the board going to heater cartridge (both ~24 V)</li>
</ul>
<p>I PID tuned the printer using <code>M303 E0 S260 C10</code> and stored new PID values in EEPROM + firmware. A note, running this multiple times seemed to constantly increase the P and D values. I stuck with the initial values given (<code>kP 13.97 kI 0.84 kD 57.96</code>). I still continued to get thermal runaway events.</p>
<p>I then tested the heater cartridge and thermistor with my multimeter. The heater was 13.5 ohms which seems about right. I was unable to measure the thermistor value. Searching online shows I likely need a better multimeter to do so. It's possible it is bad, but I find that hard to believe considering this issue was happening prior to my replacing it.</p>
<p><a href="https://pastebin.com/Ykhqfpdc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Example log</a> of the failure happening. All I did was heat the printer up, leave it on for a bit, set it to cool down briefly, then tell it to heat up again. The printer was heated for ~5-8 minutes before this log starts.</p>
<p>Could this be the board again, or is there something else I'm missing?</p>
| 19450 | Thermal Runaway issues on Ender 3 Pro even after replacing thermistor and heater cartridge | <p>I'm fairly certain I have solved this issue, and it ended up having nothing to do with the printer and everything to do with what it was plugged into!</p>
<p>I had it on a smart outlet with some automations set up to kill the power if there was ever a fire. Unfortunately, the outlet I was using was only rated for 8A, while the Ender 3 Pro can draw up to 15 amps. When it was unable to draw more than 8A to heat the hotend, this likely caused the printer to think there was a problem, triggering the thermal runaway failsafe.</p>
<p>After moving it to an outlet with a higher amperage rating, I have had no more issues.</p>
|
2022-05-28T04:32:10.337 | |safety|life-expectancy| | <p>I'm new to 3D printing and I was wondering about the risks of leaving my printer to print overnight? I'm aware that if something goes wrong I'll wake up to spaghetti for breakfast but what are the other things like having the nozzle and bed heated that long? And, when it's done it just sits there on so what could that do to the screen? What if the printer runs into some physical problem and damages itself and/or the print? I'm not looking for answers to these questions specifically just feedback on what I should do when printing overnight.</p>
| 19451 | What are the risks of leaving to print overnight? | <p>Assuming the printer is operating correctly, there are no lifetime/wear concerns from running it that long. Many-hours and even -days prints are normal usage, and print-farms run as businesses run these things basically 24/7 for months on end, modulo routine maintenance. Having the heaters on for 8 hours is really no big deal.</p>
<p>Of course, that's <em>assuming the printer is operating correctly</em>. If not, there are various things that can go wrong.</p>
<p>The worst possible is <strong>thermal runaway</strong>: the printer losing track of the bed or hotend temperature and running the heating element always-on until it melts the metal. This is a severe fire hazard. Printers with properly built firmware have thermal runaway protection to perform an emergency-stop and turn off heaters if they can't detect a reasonable temperature measurement response to operating the heater, but some popular machines have this feature intentionally turned off by the manufacturer. If you will be operating your printer unattended, absolutely make sure you test that thermal runaway protection is present and working (there should be good ways to simulate it and see that the safety is triggered).</p>
<p>Even with thermal runaway protection working, there is a very slight chance the power mosfet controlling a heater fails in a way that leaves it always-on, which the firmware cannot protect you against. For this reason you also want to have the printer away from flammable materials and may even want an active fire suppression system (there are "balls" you can hang above your printer that activate and release fire suppressant if it's on fire). This is a very low probability event - I've never heard of it happening - but I'm including it for completeness.</p>
<p>Now, the less severe stuff. As long as the first few layers go down well, it's unlikely your print will detach from the bed mid-print, but it can end up having (usually small) parts that warp upward and collide with the nozzle. This can cause lots of different types of problems:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Dislodging the print from the bed</p>
</li>
<li><p>Producing skipped stepper motor steps, which later can cause the print hed to collide against either end of its motion range due its logical position mismatching its new physical position.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Breaking parts of the toolhead, like fan ducts, fans, bed probes, silicone socks, etc.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Causing extruded material to be forced upward into the area around the hotend (e.g. between the sock and the heater block), producing a giant blob of plastic intertwined with toolhead parts and difficult or impossible to remove without damaging stuff.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Most of these things do not impose any major safety risk like fire, but they can do varying degrees of damage to the printer, requiring repair or at least maintenance. For example endstop collisions themselves usually don't damage anything but they might knock your frame out of square/alignment, requiring tinkering before the next print.</p>
|
2022-05-29T16:43:41.977 | |3d-models|3d-design|software|cad| | <p>I am a beginner and looking for software to easily pose a 3D character, which I currently have in an FBX file, and export the pose to an OBJ file.</p>
<p>For example, I could move the character's arm upward, then export that as an OBJ and print it.</p>
<p>Every software I know of either can not pose FBX characters (such as Fusion360) or can not export poses (such as Blender). How can I do this easily?</p>
| 19461 | Software to Pose and Export FBX Character | <p>If you pose it in Blender you can export it and print it with the pose. It's very simple, you just export as a STL file and then print.</p>
|
2022-05-30T21:00:18.440 | |print-quality|vase-mode|gridfinity| | <p>I've tried printing in vase mode (or "spiralise outer contour" in Cura) and while the floor looks fine, the vertical sides look "saggy"</p>
<p>I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle, with eSUN PLA+ at 218 °C and a bed temp of 60 °C. This combination works fine for normal printing. Layer height is 0.28 mm (Low Quality mode in Cura) with a line width of 0.4 mm</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVFyS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KVFyS.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <br> Image is backlit by a monitor to show the laciness in the walls.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EnEB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EnEB.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <br></p>
<p>The original model was a 1x1x6 Gridfinity bin that uses less plastic than the original. <br></p>
<p><a href="https://thangs.com/designer/LittleHobbyShop/3d-model/%23gridfinity%20Vase%20Mode%20Single%20Box-65828" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://thangs.com/designer/LittleHobbyShop/3d-model/%23gridfinity%20Vase%20Mode%20Single%20Box-65828</a></p>
<hr />
<p>Is this insufficient cooling, or too fast a print speed letting the filament sag under gravity before it cools? Or is a 0.4 mm nozzle too small?</p>
<p>This reminds me of brickwork where the mortar is too wet. The bits that work right look fine, but all four sides have bad parts.</p>
<p>What's the trick to vase mode printing?</p>
| 19468 | Saggy vase walls. What are the tricks to successful vase mode printing? | <p>The trick was to change a lot of settings and save as a separate set.</p>
<p>What works for "normal" prints does not work well for vase-mode work.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NsCx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NsCx.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I had to:</p>
<ul>
<li>Decrease layer height from 0.28 mm to 0.20 mm</li>
<li>Increase line width from 0.2 mm to 0.6 mm</li>
<li>Drop speed from 125 mm/s to 80 mm/s (though this could be tweaked upward I suspect)</li>
</ul>
<p>Vase mode also cannot deal well with printing multiple parts at the same time, and if you use "one-at-a-time" mode in your slicer then the max height caps out at 25 mm for me, which is not a lot of use.</p>
|
2022-05-31T13:42:53.543 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|pla|extruder| | <p>My Ender 3 was printing great. However, I'm now getting all sorts of globbing up on the Extruder nozzle. This is causing the prints to fail, and if I come back after a print I'm often getting 1/3 of the print printed with gaps, etc before it totally fails. Any idea what is going on? Its the same roll of PLA that was printing fine at this temperature, etc; but we are getting down to the last 15% of the roll if that matters.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0mtN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0mtN.jpg" alt="PLA Globbing Up on the Extruder" /></a></p>
<p>------------------- EDIT With More Information ---------------</p>
<p>Switched out the PLA and my printer is printing great again! Per the suggestion from someone, I'm currently baking the old PLA and will report back on the results!</p>
| 19476 | PLA Globbing up on the Extruder Nozzle | <p>I would think the filament has absorbed too much moisture. You can bake it and then try again.</p>
<p>I bake 2 hours at 50 degrees which works ok for me. But the first time I did this some of the roll tried to fuse together and the innermost 1/4 was wasted. So I've found that it's best to loosen the filament on the roll before baking if it's not that much. If it's a full roll I actually unwind it onto an empty spool and roll it loosely.</p>
|
2022-05-31T14:01:28.520 | |nozzle|e3d-v6|e3d-volcano| | <p>Now that V6 nozzles are getting more advanced, as in Nickel coated brass/copper nozzles (e.g. Bondtech CHT® nozzles) the availability for Volcano hot ends seem to lag behind...</p>
<p>A Volcano heat break adapter/nozzle extender has been spotted on the online market places to be used together with the shorter E3D V6 nozzles.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9IoM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Volcano adapter"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9IoM.png" alt="Volcano adapter" title="Volcano adapter" /></a></p>
<p>There seems to be confusion about the mounting of the adapter.</p>
<p>Either from the top of the heater block:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCOsZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Volcano adapter top mounting"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCOsZ.png" alt="Volcano adapter top mounting" title="Volcano adapter top mounting" /></a></p>
<p>or, from the bottom:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZFo0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Volcano adapter bottom mounting"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZFo0.png" alt="Volcano adapter bottom mounting" title="Volcano adapter bottom mounting" /></a></p>
<p>What is the correct positioning of the adapter considering a hex key insert is in the path of the filament, e.g. effects on retraction performance?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6bWi.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Volcano adapter views"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6bWi.png" alt="Volcano adapter views" title="Volcano adapter views" /></a></p>
| 19477 | Volcano hot end adapter orientation? | <p>I'm not sure what the <em>intended</em> mounting is, but I would put the hex socket downward towards the nozzle. Especially with a CHT, the opening to the nozzle (3 openings rather) is significantly wider than the normal filament path (usually actually 1.85-2.00 mm), and having the adapter widen just before it should help the filament reach the entire opening smoothly once it's molten and expanded in the space.</p>
<p>Conversely, mounting it with the hex socket pointed upwards creates a point in the melt zone where the path widens then narrows again. Due to the way viscous fluids work, material that gets into this space is very unlikely to merge back with the main flow; it's going to stay there and <strong>bake</strong>. This could lead to jams or at least increased friction from the molten filament having to pass by carbonized gunk. Even if not, it could leave mismatched color/material filament inside the hotend after a purge, only to have it randomly come out later and ruin your print (or at least make it look ugly).</p>
|
2022-06-03T15:17:24.977 | |3d-design| | <p>I am currently adding a fillet to the base of an object (the plane that's touching the bed) and I was curious if the radius of the filet contributed to any mis-prints. I've had luck so far but was wondering if the intensity of the radius had mattered.</p>
<p>I am using the Ender3 Pro.</p>
<hr />
<p><em>I may do some test prints and see for myself and provide an answer to share experience .</em></p>
| 19492 | Can you fillet the base of an object without needing supports? Is there a recommended radius? | <p>You can print a fillet without support as support material causes other issues like problems with removing supports and ugly scarring on you print. However, a fillet will cause an overhang when you slice the object</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXpkz.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXpkz.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>and may result into poor results as well, see e.g. this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxKxd.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxKxd.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>If your design allows it you should better use a chamfer than a fillet for the base of the print object.</p>
<p>A chamfer prints better than a fillet because a fillet creates an overhang (see indicated area on the left part of the image below.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiFxU.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiFxU.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<em>Image from <a href="https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing#:%7E:text=It%27s%20important%20that%20you%20use,printer%20will%20handle%20very%20nicely." rel="noreferrer">3DVerkstan</a></em></p>
<p>A chamfer, which normally is a 45° straight cut-off, doesn't create an overhang and, as such, prints better. If you still want a fillet, you could start with a chamfer of which you fillet the top, see the right part of the image above.</p>
<p>A chamfer with the height of the first and second layer is generally a good idea to reduce the slightly over “squished” first layer issues that create a lip around the base of the part.</p>
|
2022-06-06T16:26:08.540 | |3d-models|3d-design|bricks| | <p>I am working on a <a href="https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/17128/looking-for-a-pc-controlled-motor-that-allows-for-very-small-and-precise-movemen">prototype</a> and I have a need for a motor shaft to Lego axle adapter for use with a stepper motor.</p>
<p>My overall project entails controlling a stepper motor using C# via USB connection to make very small rotations which will adjust the height of a specimen stage (constructed from Legos) for a stereo microscope.</p>
<p>I need adapters similar to <a href="https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/6mm-dshaft-to-lego-axis-adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">6mm D shaft to Lego axis adapter Free 3D print model</a> but for 4 mm dia motor D shaft and 5 mm dia motor D shaft</p>
<p>The purpose of the adapter is to allow very small and slow rotations.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>I do not want to own the model designs, ideally they can be given away for free (<a href="https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/6mm-dshaft-to-lego-axis-adapter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">similar to the link above</a>).</p>
</li>
<li><p>I need several of the adapter pieces; 3 of each (4 mm and 5 mm) printed and what would be a fair price for this?</p>
</li>
<li><p>I have no idea what type of material should be used to print these, I think Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) would do.</p>
</li>
</ul>
| 19522 | Stepper motor D shaft to Lego axle adapter | <p>OpenSCAD would be well suited for creating something made up of relatively simple shapes, where different dimensions are needed for some parts of the shapes - like the diameters and offsets of your stepper motor shafts.</p>
<p>A solution in OpenSCAD could look something like this:</p>
<pre><code>outer_diameter = 8.5; //Outer diameter of the adapter
stepper_length = 12; //Length of the stepper shaft
stepper_diameter = 4; //Diameter of the stepper shaft
stepper_d_offset = 1.6; //Offset from the center of the shaft to the plane of the D
//4mm shaft: d = 4, offset = 1.6
//5mm shaft: d = 5, offset = 2
//6mm shaft: d = 6, offset = 2.5
thickness_mid = 2; //Thickness of the massive section between stepper and lego shafts
lego_length = 10; //Length of the lego shaft
lego_diameter = 4.9; //Outer diameter of the lego shaft
lego_internal_width = 1.9; //Width of the slots for the shaft
lego_corner_radius = 0.5;
cutout_size = lego_diameter;
cutout_translate = cutout_size / 2 + lego_internal_width / 2;
$fn = 128; //Accuracy / resolution of circles
eps = 0.01;
module fillet_square(width, radius) {
translate([radius - width / 2, radius - width / 2, 0])
minkowski() {
square(width - 2 * radius);
circle(radius);
}
}
color(0,0.5)
union(){
linear_extrude(height = stepper_length + eps) {
difference() {
circle(d = outer_diameter);
difference() {
circle(d = stepper_diameter);
translate([0, stepper_d_offset + stepper_diameter / 2, 0]) {
square(size = stepper_diameter, center = true);
}
}
}
}
translate([0, 0, stepper_length]) {
linear_extrude(height = thickness_mid) {
circle(d = outer_diameter);
}
}
translate([0, 0, stepper_length + thickness_mid - eps]) {
linear_extrude(height = lego_length + eps) {
difference() {
circle(d = outer_diameter);
difference() {
circle(d = lego_diameter);
translate([cutout_translate, cutout_translate, 0]) {
fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);
}
translate([cutout_translate, -cutout_translate, 0]) {
fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);
}
translate([-cutout_translate, cutout_translate, 0]) {
fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);
}
translate([-cutout_translate, -cutout_translate, 0]) {
fillet_square(cutout_size, lego_corner_radius);
}
}
}
}
}
}
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuR4.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbuR4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>You can then export your .stl file (or any other format) for 3D-printing from OpenSCAD.</p>
|
2022-06-09T16:27:35.160 | |repair|creality-ender-6| | <p>What are the meanings of the <strong>red</strong>, <strong>green</strong>, and <strong>blue</strong> light prompts on the Ender 6 motherboard? My Ender 6 is stuck at the boot screen. I followed the instructions provided in the "Creality After-Sale" videos on YouTube and took apart the base of the printer to look if any wiring was loose.</p>
<p>I found that the red light was continuously on at the D2 position on the motherboard. Creality's video showed the light on this location of the motherboard to be blue. I also checked on the internet and it appears some users also have a green light. Users also report the light blinks but in my case, it remains red throughout.</p>
<p>I am wondering if this indicates what is wrong with my printer and why it is stuck on the boot screen.</p>
| 19532 | Meaning of light prompts on Ender 6 motherboard | <p>I found out that the motherboard had gotten damaged and the green light indication had to do with showcasing this. The problem was resolved when I bought a new motherboard online and replaced the damaged motherboard with the new one. The printer works fine now.</p>
|
2022-06-11T10:26:53.657 | |marlin|wiring|fans| | <p>I have radial fan with 2 pins connector and always kept it connected to <code>GND</code>/<code>5V</code> pins (marked J5 at the left bottom on pinout image for my controller board).</p>
<p>I've stumbled upon the <code>USE_CONTROLLER_FAN</code> feature of Marlin which allows setting some pin to be used for PWM-controlling a control board fan. I think <code>SERVO0_PIN</code> should do fine (<code>D11</code> at the bottom center on the pinout image), but I'm not sure how to connect it.</p>
<ol>
<li>Should I split connector and use <code>GND</code> + <code>D11</code> pins?</li>
<li>Or should I use some proper PWM fan for that (which are always 4pin and then how would one connect THAT to those pins?)</li>
<li>Is it safe to run a fan directly from board pins or should I resort to using either unused MOSFET outputs (e.g. <code>FAN</code> MOSFET pin marked as <code>D9</code> on the left)?</li>
<li>Should I use dedicated MOSFET board to drive that fan using that SERVO0_PIN?</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0kzf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u0kzf.png" alt="MKS GEN v1.4 board pinout" /></a></p>
| 19536 | Connecting controller fan on RAMPS 1.4 for Marlin | <p>Servo pins are PWM pins, so yes <code>D11</code> can be used, but not directly connected to the fan as the pins only allow a very low current. You'll need a MOSFET to drive the fan. You don't need 4-pin fans, 2-pin fans will suffice.</p>
|
2022-06-13T03:06:18.897 | |ramps-1.4| | <p>The printer is a Prusa I3. I'm running it directly from a PC with Repetier 2.2.4. Repetier has a soft Emergency
Stop but that requires grabbing the mouse and getting the pointer to the hot spot on the screen. I'd be more comfortable with a physical button.</p>
<p>If all else fails I can rig a panic button to connect a 30 ohm resistor between hot and ground downstream of the GFI, causing it to trip. That seems a bit extreme. Also not sure if the capacitors in the power supply might keep a motor going for another few steps after the mains power goes away. Interrupting the stepper motor power just ahead of the motor drivers seems like the optimal way to go.</p>
| 19551 | Where/how can I connect a physical Emergency Stop panic button directly to a RAMPS 1.4 board to quickly stop all stepper movement? | <p>Just pull the main power on the machine if it bombs and goes haywire. It isn’t a computer that needs a soft shutdown.</p>
<p>The only thing you want to do is turn it back on quickly so the hotend fan goes back on and you don’t get heat creep with filament melting and then solidifying in the heat break.</p>
<p>Disconnecting motor power isn’t great, because the reason you are hitting the panic button is probably because the machine bombed is trying to wreck itself, in which case the processor needs to be reset. Could make a DC disconnect between the power supply and main board, but it should stay off for a few seconds for the caps to drain, so if it’s a momentary switch all users would have to know to hold it down for a spell. If it is an on/off switch you have a possible source of confusion, why the printer isn’t turning on, because now there are two power switches, and you wouldn’t want to use it as a general use power switch because the power supply would be left on all the time.</p>
<p>One alternative would be a reset button on the processor, if there is a breakout for that pin or a tact switch on the pcb you could wire a big, official momentary switch (normally open type) in parallel with. I would suggest some kind of shroud so it doesn’t get bumped accidentally.</p>
|
2022-06-15T15:11:28.510 | |marlin|firmware| | <p>How can I replace the line in the time display with a dot? Using Marlin 2.1</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9RZdk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of LCD display of a 3D printer with the time circled"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9RZdk.jpg" alt="Photo of LCD display of a 3D printer with the time circled" title="Photo of LCD display of a 3D printer with the time circled" /></a></p>
| 19559 | How to change the time format on LCD screen in Marlin 2.1? | <p>The apostrophe or single quote character is officially used to indicate minutes, if there are two, this indicates seconds (but, in the image from the question, the double quote cannot be seen).</p>
<p>Replacing the single quote for a decimal isn't a good idea to display the time as the following number is in seconds, not a fraction of a minute.</p>
<p>Either way, the remaining time is converted from a number into a human readable format by the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/0a3c42a87c24ff3b5b184f211d5b2549083b61a5/Marlin/src/libs/duration_t.h#L156" rel="nofollow noreferrer">toDigital()</a> function of the <code>duration_t.h</code> file (referring to the Marlin 2.1 bugfix branch). Even with little programming skills if is easy to find where and what you want to change ( hint, see comment: <code>// 12'34</code>), the function is quoted for reference below:</p>
<pre><code>uint8_t toDigital(char *buffer, bool with_days=false) const {
const uint16_t h = uint16_t(this->hour()),
m = uint16_t(this->minute() % 60UL);
if (with_days) {
const uint16_t d = this->day();
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%hud %02hu:%02hu"), d, h % 24, m); // 1d 23:45
return d >= 10 ? 9 : 8;
}
else if (!h) {
const uint16_t s = uint16_t(this->second() % 60UL);
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%02hu'%02hu"), m, s); // 12'34
return 5;
}
else if (h < 100) {
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%02hu:%02hu"), h, m); // 12:34
return 5;
}
else {
sprintf_P(buffer, PSTR("%hu:%02hu"), h, m); // 123:45
return 6;
}
}
</code></pre>
|
2022-06-19T12:29:22.180 | |3d-models|3d-design|meshmixer| | <p>I have this .stl that I downloaded and I need to create a solid of this 3D. However, if I click "Make solid", it doesn't work.</p>
<p>How can I do? I think the problem is the black layer but I don't know how to resolve.</p>
<p>Before make solid:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9eI2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer - before make solid"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9eI2.png" alt="Screenshot of Meshmixer - before make solid" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer - before make solid" /></a></p>
<p>After make solid:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvygD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer - after make solid"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fvygD.png" alt="Screenshot of Meshmixer - after make solid" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer - after make solid" /></a></p>
<p>I need to make solid and the black layer is deleted when I do it.</p>
<p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g-YaF1k_X5FU1Y-SgWiGCXC4k_nADohk/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g-YaF1k_X5FU1Y-SgWiGCXC4k_nADohk/view?usp=sharing</a></p>
<p>PS: The other object are different item, so if they are there or not is the same</p>
| 19568 | Meshmixer create solid | <h1>Make solid requires an enclosed volume</h1>
<p>To run the make solid operation, the selected parts need to enclose a volume. In case the volume is not fully enclosed, the program tries to solve a solution that closes the open surface.</p>
<p>The black layer is most likely failing to compute because its normals are flipped. This means it does not enclose a surface, it excludes anything between the surfaces from being inside the body defined by it - it is <strong>everything but</strong>. This is solved as "this surface does not enclose anything, so I cut it out" but for where it creates a valid solution in the area of the white surface before the operation.</p>
<p>This leaves you with the white retained part after the operation.</p>
<h1>To fix this is an in-depth project</h1>
<p>Fixing such errors is quite involved. You will need to do the following steps, depending on your program to alter:</p>
<ul>
<li>flip the surfaces so that it shows outside</li>
<li>make sure that the body is closed, possibly by adding missing surfaces</li>
</ul>
|
2022-07-02T05:08:49.173 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware|bltouch| | <p>I bought an Ender 3 recently and it has the 4.2.2 Creality board. Then I bought a BLTouch to upgrade it with bed leveling. It turns out that the BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector instead of the separate wires that all the tutorials talk about. How do I install the thing?</p>
| 19617 | Configuring Marlin 2.x with Ender 3 4.2.2 and BLTouch | <p>Don't forget to add</p>
<pre><code>M420 S0
</code></pre>
<p>after the <code>G28</code> command in the G-code, else you have to level bed before every print.</p>
|
2022-07-02T15:44:16.010 | |troubleshooting|pla|tpu| | <p>After printing some parts in TPU, I encountered continuous clogging after returning to PLA. Not right out of the bat, but after about an hour or such, all prints I started since the swap back clog after about an hour. I use an Ender-3, Bowden Style, and print my PLA generally at 200 °C. The TPU had been listed as 220-240 °C on the roll, so I printed at 230 °C.</p>
<p>How can I regain normal printing behavior?!</p>
| 19619 | My printer clogs after Printing TPU! How can I fix it back up? | <h2>What's the cause of the problem?</h2>
<p>The problem is the dissimilar printing temperatures:</p>
<ul>
<li>TPU is printed at around <span class="math-container">$\pu{230 °C}$</span></li>
<li>PLA is printed at around <span class="math-container">$\pu{200 °C}$</span></li>
</ul>
<p>As a result, when the PLA is molten and well printable already, residue of TPU in the hotend is at an awkward spot: it is molten enough to seep down along the filament path with molten PLA, but it is not soft enough to get easily extruded from the nozzle. This is what leads to clogging.</p>
<h2>Problem solution</h2>
<p>To fix the clogging, I took the following steps after the very first time I encountered it:</p>
<ul>
<li>Swap the nozzle to reduce the residue still in the machine</li>
<li>Do a cold-pull with the PLA, taking away a quite good chunk of the residue that still might remain in the heatbreak.</li>
<li>Finally, do a <em>purge</em> print at an elevated temperature. For me, about <span class="math-container">$\pu{215 °C}$</span> did work to get the last traces of residue from the heartbreak out.-</li>
</ul>
<p>There you go! One restored printing behavior!</p>
<p>Technically, the nozzle swap and cold pull were <em>overkill</em>, but reduced the amount of TPU that needed to be purged out of the nozzle.</p>
<h2>Refined problem solution</h2>
<p>Since the problem occurred first, I managed to refine my procedure to prevent clogs in the first place.</p>
<ul>
<li>Heat the nozzle to ca. <span class="math-container">$\pu{230 °C}$</span></li>
<li>Pull the TPU Filament without cooling</li>
<li>Load the PLA Filament</li>
<li>Manually push filament until the about 10 to 15 mm are extruded from the nozzle</li>
<li>Order the extruder to extrude 10 cm of Filament</li>
<li>Set print temperature down to to <span class="math-container">$\pu{200 °C}$</span></li>
</ul>
<p>While the extruder pushes the PLA through at an elevated temperature, it clears the whole path while cooling down, and can cycle right into the next print. It can help to use a different color PLA than the TPU to have a visible confirmation of the last residue being gone.</p>
<p>Another helpful indicator is the cooling down filament's flexibility: as long as TPU is in the mix, the extruded string is bendy but becomes stiff as soon as there is almost no more residue in it.</p>
|
2022-07-16T15:53:11.103 | |print-quality|filament|print-material|tpu| | <p>Lately I've been having a lot of trouble with printing overhangs in TPU. The failures are very geometry/toolpath dependent, entirely reproducible in their location (same gcode gives same failures each time it's printed), and seem to occur where there is a convex (model-inward) curve over an overhang of more than 40° or so. My original test case for this was frog model with more severe overhang, but I since made a simplified conical overhang test piece at only 50° that's faster to reprint and shows the issue:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Ny6d.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Ny6d.jpg" alt="Two upside-down 3D printed frogs" /></a></p>
<p>The frog print on the left is pretty much a complete failure. The one on the right is mostly a success, but shows some moderate flaws around one side (left, as viewed) and the front of the belly, and even slight flaws (hard to see in pic) around the other side of the belly. It was done using some of the mitigations described below.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei5Lh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ei5Lh.jpg" alt="3 elongated conical test pieces - convex hull of two translations of a truncated cone with 8 mm diameter at bottom, rising 50°, turned upside down to show overhang print problems" /></a></p>
<p>The test piece on the left is nearly perfect. The other two show varying degrees of the overhang problem I'm experiencing, and make it easier to see what exactly is happening than with the frog. The extrusion seems to bunch up, then get stretched out too thin, in an oscillating pattern that builds up and shifts with each layer.</p>
<p>I've tried printing overhangs significantly slower and reducing speed and acceleration quite a bit on the outer walls and even on the inner walls too, and none of that seems to help. Nor does increasing the number of walls or the wall line thickness help. However a number of things do seem to help, and it takes two or more of these in combination to get a mostly acceptable result at 0.2 mm layer height:</p>
<ul>
<li>Increasing flow to a level where the extruded mass is the expected amount (this makes wall dimensions excess so I usually don't do it)</li>
<li>Taking the infill up to 20% or higher and using an infill pattern where the infill meets the walls frequently (gyroid 20% or more seems best; I'm trying not to do this because I want to final objects to be more flexible in some cases)</li>
<li>Increasing Klipper square corner velocity to 30+ so that the entire approximated curves are traversed at constant speed with no acceleration/deceleration</li>
<li>Increasing Klipper PA smooth time window from 10ms to 40ms</li>
</ul>
<p>Generally I'm able to choose some subset of the above that works, but it ends up being a matter of per-model trial-and-error, wasting lots of time and materials if the settings don't work, so I'd like to figure out what's really going on here so I can make predictions about what will work and ideally get a base configuration that "always" works. Also, I still don't have this working at thinner layer heights, which I'd like to be able to use for better detail, as TPU is flow-bound not motion-bound and I could in theory print much higher detail at the same speed with thinner layers.</p>
<p>My best guess at the root cause so far is that the overhanging walls simply do not have enough rigidity to avoid being displaced by the toolhead attempting to extrude against them, so any oscillation of the toolhead velocity or extrusion pressure causes them to deform in the pattern of the oscillation. Does this seem plausible, and if so, what might some other possible mitigations be?</p>
<p>For completeness, my printer is a heavily modified Ender 3 with (remote) direct drive extruder and fairly extreme cooling, but turning the cooling way down or even off (assuming sufficient layer time for passive cooling) does not seem to affect the behavior here significantly. So I think the question is mostly printer-agnostic and is really a matter of material behavior and slicing.</p>
| 19657 | Root cause fix for TPU overhang failures | <p>I fixed my overhangs by increasing the nozzle temp. You need to heat it up enough that the elasticity is lost which makes it misbehave on overhangs and curl up.</p>
|
2022-07-17T17:08:52.663 | |print-quality| | <p>I've just bought my first 3D printer (Malyan M200 V2). For the most part, it's been really good and I've had no issues, apart from when printing the first few layers the printer doesn't seem to extrude enough material and doesn't form the correct shape. Whether it's a circle, rectangle, or anything else. So for example I've printed the below part.</p>
<p>The raft prints perfectly:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXKQh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a printed raft"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXKQh.jpg" alt="Photo of a printed raft" title="Photo of a printed raft" /></a></p>
<p>Then when it starts the first few layers of the actual print it extrudes a bit of material which then hangs from the nozzle and is dragged about the surface of the raft before stopping as more material is extruded. So when the print finishes the first layer looks messy like the one below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2uoq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the first layer of a printed model showing printing errors"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2uoq.jpg" alt="Photo of the first layer of a printed model showing printing errors" title="Photo of the first layer of a printed model showing printing errors" /></a></p>
<p>But everything after the first few layers is perfect for example the top of the same print:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A71OY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the layers after the first of a printed model that doesn't showing any errors"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/A71OY.jpg" alt="Photo of the layers after the first of a printed model that doesn't showing any errors" title="Photo of the layers after the first of a printed model that doesn't showing any errors" /></a></p>
<p>I've tried adjusting the temperature of the nozzle and the print bed neither has made a difference. The bed is level I've double-checked that. Trying to find the issue online keeps bringing me back to temperature or bed levelling.</p>
<p>I'm using this <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N5SVFJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PrimaValue PLA Filament</a></p>
<p>The leaflet in the box recommends printing at 210 °C, I've tried 210, 215, and 220 °C.</p>
<p>The print bed I've been keeping at 60 °C which seems to have been working but I've tried printing down to 45 °C on the print bed and the same issue occurs. I'm not sure what an ideal temperature is for PLA, I've seen some posts saying that a heated bed isn't needed for PLA and others saying that it should be heated to between 50-70 °C (my printer only heats up to 60 °C).</p>
<p>I've looked at some of the settings in Cura and there are various settings for things like initial speed and first/last layer speed which sound like they might help but I don't know anything about them. I have tried slowing down the print but again I just watched it happen more slowly, albeit that did help some as that's when I've realised it doesn't appear to be pushing out enough material on the first few layers. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.</p>
| 19666 | First layers going funny | <p>Hi Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been experimenting with various prints using some of the different settings and it appears that I needed to increase the initial layer height. Now the first layers are printing as they should.</p>
|
2022-07-18T07:41:50.733 | |sketchup| | <p>I've created a little enclosure for a project in sketchup
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8AB9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8AB9.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I then exported the .STL</p>
<p>When I open it in Creality slicer 4.8 or Cura 5.0 It looks like this
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD4eb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD4eb.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I thought that the red was "overhang that needs support" (but can also mean a shell?)</p>
<p>Hoever, that's not the irritating part. That would be the grey in the middle where the "hole" should be.</p>
<p>When I slice it, it looks like this:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ew0yy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ew0yy.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I didn't notice this before I started printing and 4 hours into the print I noticed that it was just completely ignoring the window and was considering it as a part of the base.</p>
<p>Why is it doing this and how can I fix it?</p>
<p>I've tried editing the original sketchup model a number of times, but I keep getting the same result.</p>
<p>I read the question and answer at <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5068/empty-space-in-model-is-getting-filled">Empty space in model is getting filled</a> but I'm not 100% sure that this is the solution I'm looking for.</p>
<p>The slicer, knows enough to see that the hole should be there, as it is rendering in a shaded area. It feels like there is a setting or some such that is "print the shaded area" with a checkbox (on or off) - and if that setting is there, someone please tell me where to find it!</p>
<p>I've also tried importing the STL into other programs (like fusion 360) and RE-exporting the STL, but the issue persists.</p>
<hr />
<p><em>Please note that <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13352/sketchup-designed-block-with-hole-printed-solid-in-cura">this question</a> seems to be similar to mine, however, there isn't an accepted answer. The one provided below is actually a much better answer.</em></p>
| 19671 | Disparity between Sketchup STL and Slicer | <p><strong>Use Solid Inspector to fix problems</strong></p>
<p>Before exporting your Sketchup model to STL use Solid Inspector. It is available for free from the Sketchup extensions page and will detect reversed faces, stray edges, surface borders. The "main problems" mentioned above are then eliminated.</p>
|
2022-07-19T01:20:44.100 | |prusaslicer|stringing| | <p>The print is a collapsible sword I'm using as a test. Everything seems fine on the outside, but inside it seems the segment parts of the sword inside the hilt are fusing together at the seam lines causing them to stick together.</p>
<p><strong>Model</strong>: <a href="https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Collapsing%20Katana-22696" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://thangs.com/designer/3dprintingworld/3d-model/Collapsing%20Katana-22696</a></p>
<p><strong>Finished Print</strong> (looks fine)
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZa3o.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZa3o.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Concentric blade pieces</strong> (fuse marks that I sheared off and broke to get out)
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/peViY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/peViY.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Seams on exterior of hilt look great</strong>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2dxXC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2dxXC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Print settings/info</strong></p>
<p><strong>Printer</strong>: Prusa MK3S+</p>
<p><strong>Slicer</strong>: PrusaSlicer 2.5.0a3</p>
<p><strong>Settings preset</strong>: 0.15 mm QUALITY</p>
<p><strong>Filament</strong>: Prusa PLA</p>
<p><strong>Nozzle temp</strong>: 205 °C (default is 215 °C, but lower eases stringing and has never been a problem for many past prints)</p>
<p><strong>Nozzle size</strong>: 0.4 mm</p>
<p><strong>Full config</strong>: <a href="https://pastebin.com/ECa6KkYK" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://pastebin.com/ECa6KkYK</a></p>
| 19673 | Why are these concentric parts fusing together at seam lines? | <p>After some trial and error I found that the issue was stringing due to excess moisture in the filament from being stored outside of a sealed low-humidity container for long periods.</p>
<p>After placing it in a heated dehydrator for 2 days, my next print had low stringing and did not bond interlaced parts together significantly.</p>
|
2022-07-22T02:19:35.210 | |pla|filament|safety| | <p>Are there any safety risks inherent to PLA plastics used for 3D printing?</p>
<p>The material safety data sheet of some PLA plastics indicates low risks at a toxicological level, but I'd like to make sure some other factor isn't overlooked.
(<a href="https://printparts.com/datasheets/PLA-MSDS.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1</a>, <a href="https://www.nhh.com.hk/en/3dprinting/document/pla_classic/MSDS_PLA_Classic.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2</a>, <a href="http://wwwassets.e-ci.com/PDF/SDS/CI-D-07-PLA-3D-Printing-Filament.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3</a>)</p>
<blockquote>
<hr>
SECTION 11: TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION
<hr>
PRINCIPLE ROUTES OF EXPOSURE: Eye contact, Skin contact, Inhalation, Ingestion.
ACUTE TOXICITY: None noted during use.
<p>LOCAL EFFECTS: Product dust may be irritating to eyes, skin and
respiratory system. Particles, like other inert materials, are
mechanically irritating to eyes. Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal
irritation, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.</p>
<p>SPECIFIC EFFECTS: May cause skin irritation and/or dermatitis.
Ingestion may cause gastrointestinal irritation, nausea, vomiting and
diarrhea. Inhalation of dust may cause shortness of breath, tightness
of the chest, a sore throat and cough. Burning produces irritant
fumes.</p>
<p>CHRNOIC TOXICITY: None noted during use.</p>
<p>REPRODUCTIVE TOXICITY: No data is available on the product itself.<br />
CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS: None of the components of this product are
listed as carcinogens by IARC, NTP, or OSHA.</p>
</blockquote>
| 19689 | Are there any major safety risks of PLA plastic? | <p>If you are concerned about inhalation (and I think you should be), you should use a hierarchy of controls to mitigate the risk.</p>
<p>NIOSH (part of the CDC) have a <a href="https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2020-115/default.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">good document outlining how to mitigate the risks of 3D printing particulate emissions.</a></p>
<p>Note that the smell you experience may be VOCs, not particles. Both are important to block. To do so, use a respirator with both particulate and organic vapour filters, in addition to an air purification/local exhaust ventilation system. The ‘carbon filters’ often seen in 3D printers do almost nothing for particulates, only nuisance levels of vapours.</p>
|
2022-07-31T18:55:04.073 | |ultimaker-cura|3d-design|cad|freecad| | <p>I'm quite new to 3D CAD and printing.
I own a Dremel 3D45 and I use FreeCad / Ultimaker Cura as softwares.</p>
<p>My question is pretty simple.
Say you have to make one object with a pin and another with a hole. They should be coupled together. Of course if you set the diameters of the pin and the hole equal the won't fit!</p>
<p>Right now I'm setting the hole larger of 0.2 mm and the pin smaller of 0.2 mm. This allow a quite good coupling (not so hard but with some resistance).</p>
<p>I guess this tolerance (0.4 mm in my example) depends on a lot of variables: 3D printer settings, material, etc... so it may change using different setup.</p>
<p>How to correctly handle this?</p>
<p>Should I add a variable in my CAD spreadsheet and use it to change the nominal diameter of the coupling items?</p>
<p>I don't think so, but anyway: is there a settings in Ultimaker Cura that allow to compensate an hole or a pin by a specified amount?</p>
<p>Any other suggestion is gladly accepted.</p>
| 19712 | How to take in account tolerances when coupling | <p>Once you understand how the parts will need to fit together to meet their purpose, you will need to define <em>allowances</em> on your parts in order to create <em>clearance</em> between them.</p>
<p>You will need to understand your printer's capabilities and <em>accuracy</em> by printing some test parts and measuring them. <em>Tolerance</em> is the amount of variation from the specified dimension that is acceptable on a part.</p>
<p>If your printer isn't accurate enough to achieve the tolerances specified on the part, you'll have to find some way to improve the parts so that they are within tolerance. Often this is done as a finishing step: filing, sanding, or grinding an oversized printed part; drilling out an undersized hole; etc. You should also consider other options: buy a more accurate resin printer, redesign the part to make the pin out of a commercially available metal rod or tube, pay someone else to make the parts for you, etc.</p>
<p>Armed with this information you can "design for manufacturing". That means you alter the design of your parts enough so they can be successfully produced with the tooling available to you.</p>
<p>I just posted a little Q&A that discusses this very topic of <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19747/what-is-the-difference-between-allowance-and-tolerance">the difference between allowances and tolerances</a>, and ways to achieve that.</p>
|
2022-08-02T08:22:09.037 | |ultimaker-cura|nylon|dremel-3d45| | <p>I'm using Ultimaker Cura and a Dremel 3D45S with an eSun Nylon filament.
As starting point I'm using the default settings of the printer, 260 °C for the hotend and 80 °C for the bed.</p>
<p>These are the results:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfKc9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfKc9.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pW3Hv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pW3Hv.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgLhd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgLhd.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>In addition to the poor print quality, the resulting dimensions are wrong. For example, the cylinder is supposed to have a wall thickness of 5 mm, with an inner diameter of 35 mm and the outer diameter of 45 mm. With ABS they are quite good (just a 0.2 mm difference). With nylon they are off by 1 mm! The wall has a thickness of 6 mm.</p>
<p>For both materials the flow is set to 100 %</p>
<p>Any ideas on what I should change to improve the printing?</p>
<p>Here my current settings for Nylon:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMpbi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMpbi.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 19717 | How to fix these issues with Nylon? | <p>If you look up the <a href="https://plasticranger.com/what-is-shore-hardness-scale/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">hardness</a> of Nylon with respect to ABS you will find that ABS is generally much harder. The effect of softer filament is that the teeth of the extruder feeder dig in more into the filament (so for every rotation of the gear, less material is extruded than in hard filament), if you do not correct for this (lower the extrusion flow modifier) you are under-extruding material.</p>
<p>This is clearly not happening in your case!</p>
<p>The effects you see are caused by over-extrusion. This can cause the effects you see on the outside of your print and also result in dimensional inaccuracies. You need to tune the printer for different materials. Try to extrude 100 mm of filament and see how much is being extruded (mark some filament from a reference point and redo the measurement after extrusion).</p>
<p>Also make sure the filament is dry, Nylon tends to take up moisture which can bubbling (boiling the moisture) during extrusion.</p>
|
2022-08-02T12:01:16.207 | |filament| | <p>I have an Artillery Hornet printer that I am very satisfied with. I make my models in Blender, export them as STL files, and import them into Cura slicer. Everything works great with no problems, mostly. But yesterday, I made a model that I used a reference image in Blender (deleted it before exporting then). And when I printed it, direct afterward, the printer unloads the filament. I tried to print it multiple times and every time it did the same. No big problem then, but a bit annoying.</p>
<p>Does anyone have any idea what could cause this, and how to prevent it? Other models I make in Blender have not given me that result then. I still have not tried making other models with a reference image to compare the result. So I found this place first and try to ask if someone knows about that problem.</p>
<p>This is the end G-code:</p>
<pre><code>G1 E-6 F9000
M104 S0 T0 ; turn off temperature
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G1 X110 Y220 F10000
M84 ; disable motors
</code></pre>
| 19719 | My printer unloads the filament, after I finished the print | <p>I haven't used your printer type, but <a href="https://top3dshop.com/blog/artillery-hornet-3d-printer-review" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this link suggests</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>If your printer unloads the filament after each printing session
automatically, you might want to check the end code of your machine
and disable the retraction (;G1 E-6 F9000).</p>
</blockquote>
|
2022-08-03T16:06:35.867 | |creality-ender-3|z-axis| | <p>A couple of days ago I got my first 3D printer: Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro. I finished assembling it last night. I booted it up, but ran into problems (which I guess is not a common thing for a beginner in 3D printing). After booting and running the motors, it seemed that the lead screw got stuck about halfway down the Z-axis. I heard a rattling sound. So I turned the 3D-printer off. I disassembled the lead screw and applied some Lithium lubricant on it. But the problem persisted. Looking more closely at it, I noticed some notches on the lead screw:</p>
<p>I tried to spin the Creality Z-axis stepper motor, and it felt smooth and did not have any resistance. The bolts on the rod holder were slighly loose so that the lead screw had a bit of play inside.</p>
<p>Im wondering if the lead screw may have been defect during manufacturing process? Are lead screws supposed to have notches like these, or are these manufacturing defects? Here's two photos of the lead screw:</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WufoV.jpg" width="320"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mzN12.jpg" width="320"></p>
<p>Im guessing the notches are too deep for the z-axis to actually work the way it is supposed to.</p>
| 19721 | Assembled my first 3D-printer: Lead screw problem? | <p>Both of the above answers are likely correct <strong>but also,</strong> I own an Ender 3 and it's kinda/sorta tricky to get it set up right. I had a similar problem and I was certain it was the lead screw -- and mine indeed does not have the marks that yours has -- but in the end the issue was that I had assembled the printer ever-so-slightly out of true, and I had to do a lot of adjusting and wobbling to get things lined up right. So just be prepared for that.</p>
<p>Yes I think the rod is damaged and send back for a replacement, but when it comes back be sure and triple-check that everything is adjusted properly following videos like <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQ0q9zLygTY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>. You might also need to spend a little bit more money to replace some of the stock parts to really get it dialed in but once you do you won't be disappointed!</p>
|
2022-08-06T05:22:49.700 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch| | <p>I upgraded my Ender 3 Pro from the stock 8-bit motherboard to a new 32-bit 4.2.7 motherboard. No problems were encountered with the swap, flashing of the new firmware, or calibration.</p>
<p>When I went to start the first test print, the firmware throws the E1 Error: "<code>Heating Failed: E1; PRINTER HALTED; Please Reset</code>".</p>
<p>When the print started, the bed heated up to the requested 60 °C, and then started warming the print head to 210 °C. Once the print head reached 205 °C, the temperature started to drop. It dropped back down to 200 °C, then up to 202 °C then down to 198 °C and so on. It kept doing the up and down heating until it dropped to 190 °C at which point the E1 error was displayed. I have run through the cycle several times with different prints, and through the menu options; and it always fails in the same up and down way.</p>
<p>Printer Specs:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ender 3 Pro</li>
<li>Upgraded motherboard 4.2.7 (silent stepper drivers)</li>
<li>Matching upgrade of Marlin to version 2.0.6 (downloaded from Creality)</li>
<li>BLTouch</li>
<li>PEI print bed</li>
<li>Replacement bed springs</li>
<li>everything else is stock</li>
</ul>
<p>Prior to the upgrade, everything worked fine. I printed several small prints the day before without a problem. After the upgrade the E1 error.</p>
<p>Thoughts? Suggestions?</p>
| 19733 | Heating Failed: E1 after upgrade to 4.2.7 motherboard - Ender 3 Pro | <h2>Problem Solved</h2>
<p>After checking in with the Ender 3 group on Facebook and doing quite a bit more research I tracked the problem down to PID calibration. The default settings for the board were not heating the print head properly. Because it was coming in short, the thermal runaway logic on the new board cut in and shut everything down.</p>
<p>To fix the problem, the printer needs to run a PID autotune. This is a good idea when you replace any part between the nozzle and the logic board. To accomplish the autotune you need to access the printers console through an app such as <a href="https://www.pronterface.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pronterface</a>. You should also take care when hooking in a USB cable to the printer. The <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/nk7xfi/cant_find_427_board_on_pc_when_connected_via_usb/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4.2.7 board runs power to the USB port</a>. To get the printer connected to your computer, you will need to mask off the power pin on the USB cable (with the possibility of blowing the chip on the board if you skip this step)</p>
<p>The Marlin command for PID autotune is <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M303</a>. Follow this up with an <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M301</a> to set the results from the autotune. And don't forget to finish up with an <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M500</a> to save the settings to the EEPROM.</p>
<p>I would suggest <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PTO98GuhxA&t=470s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this video</a> from Teaching Tech for an example of the process, and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mj47VjlavQ&t=681s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this video</a> from 3D Print General to conduct the same autotune on the build plate.</p>
<h2>Post Script</h2>
<p><em><strong>Important Safety Tip</strong></em> - The 4.2.7 board draws more power than the old 8 bit board. During my first test print after the PID calibration, the connector between the power supply and the motherboard melted down. It seems that the wires were crimped rather than soldered. This was fine with the old board, but it was too much with the added power draw. The poor connection caused the wires in the connection to over heat. This is a fire hazard.</p>
<p>Check the power connector. remove the shrink wrap and take a close look. If you don't see solder on the joint, replace it. It is worth the slight expense and hassle to avoid ruining your printer and potentially starting a fire.</p>
<p>The issues is discussed in this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yDp9frWkcg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Makers Muse video</a>.</p>
|
2022-08-08T03:33:13.100 | |ultimaker-cura|infill| | <p>I'm printing a ring that's a replacement for the non-slip base of a mixing bowl. The ring is about 130mm in diameter, with a rectangular cross section, like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cx9Y.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cx9Y.png" alt="rubber ring" /></a></p>
<p>I'm using Cura as the slicer, and I've set the infill to 100% and <code>concentric</code>, but after slicing it looks like Cura used <code>lines</code> instead; the ring is filled with parallel straight lines:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEfXF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEfXF.png" alt="lines infill" /></a></p>
<p>Is this a problem with Cura? Is there something I can do to encourage it to use concentric infill? I don't really care what the infill pattern is, but I think <code>concentric</code> would print a lot faster since the head wouldn't have to switch directions all the time.</p>
| 19740 | Cura uses lines instead of concentric infill | <p>This is <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/11568" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a known issue</a>. Cura's profile variable logic sets the number of bottom layers to 999999 if infill is set to 100%, overriding infill by replacing it with additional bottom layers. If you go find the setting for number of bottom layers and set it back to the number you actually want, overriding this, infill should work as expected.</p>
<p>Alternatively, setting top/bottom pattern to concentric should also fix it, and you probably want that anyway so that you don't have distinct bottom layers that are printed as lines.</p>
|
2022-08-09T15:00:01.930 | |3d-design|terminology| | <p>I have to have a pin fit in a hole, and there needs to be a gap so the pin can turn freely. Can I make the pin smaller by changing the tolerance?</p>
| 19747 | What is the difference between allowance and tolerance? | <p>There are four terms that many people find confusing:</p>
<ul>
<li><em>Tolerance</em> is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.</li>
<li><em>Allowance</em> is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.</li>
<li><em>Clearance</em> is the intentional space between two parts.</li>
<li><em>Interference</em> is the intentional overlap between two parts.</li>
</ul>
<p>Use <em>tolerance</em> when specifying the amount of error permitted in making a part. Use <em>allowance</em> when specifying a gap between two mating parts.</p>
<hr />
<p>Two other related terms that are important when specifying dimensions for manufacturing:</p>
<ul>
<li><em>Accuracy</em> is the maximum dimensional variation between parts.</li>
<li><em>Precision</em> is the size of the steps your machine is capable of.</li>
</ul>
<p>A machine cannot reliably produce parts with a smaller tolerance than its <em>accuracy</em>. If elephant foot expands your parts by 0.1 mm, then your accuracy is only 0.1 mm. You will not be able to repeatably print parts with 0.05 mm tolerance. (You might get lucky and one out of ten might accidentally fit the dimensions required, but that's not a good manufacturing plan.)</p>
<p>Precision is often confused with accuracy. People think that if their machine is advertised as having 0.05 mm step size (its <em>precision</em> is 0.05 mm) that they can print parts with 0.05 mm tolerance. But if your printer has a precision of 0.05mm and an accuracy of 0.1 mm, you cannot count on it to repeatedly position itself to within 0.05 mm of the desired dimension.</p>
<p>To measure your machine's accuracy, you'll need to print some pins and holes and carefully measure the differences between what you defined and what you printed. The difference between the largest and smallest measurements you take is the accuracy. And be sure to check the accuracy in your X, Y, and Z dimensions; your printer might have a difference between them that would impact the roundness of the parts.</p>
<hr />
<p>In the case of the sizes needed to fit a pin in a hole so that it can pivot freely, you need to define an <em>allowance</em> in order to create the <em>clearance</em> you desire.</p>
<p>What is the minimum gap between parts you are looking for, and what is the maximum you can accept? That's the clearance.</p>
<p>Let's say you want a clearance of at least 0.2 mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0 mm. And let's say you measured your printer's accuracy to be ± 0.2 mm. If you print a 5 mm pin, your pin would be anywhere between 5.0 mm ± 0.2 mm, so the hole must therefore be 5.6 mm ± 0.2 mm. The minimum clearance of 0.2 mm would be an minimum sized hole (5.4 mm) and a maximum sized pin (5.2 mm); the maximum clearance of 1.0 mm would be a maximum sized hole (5.8 mm) and a minimum sized pin (4.8 mm).</p>
<p>Note that a clearance of 1.0 mm is really loose, and is just too sloppy for your application. You might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05 mm in order to reduce the clearance. But since your printer's accuracy can't produce a part that meets your specified tolerances, you would need to find a different way to manufacture or "finish" the parts.</p>
<p>The traditional way to solve the problem of inaccuracy in production is to create the part larger than the maximum material condition, then use a subtractive method to finish it to the desired dimensions.</p>
<p>Say we need the pin and hole to have 0.2 mm clearance, but we've already established that our machine only has 0.2 mm of accuracy. How do we print the parts to fit? We print the hole undersized and the pin oversized by the amount of accuracy in our machine, plus we include an allowance to ensure we always have some material to remove in the finishing step.</p>
<p>Let's establish the hole's final dimension to be 5.0 mm ± 0.05, so we print the hole to 4.7 mm ± 0.2 mm (resulting in a hole that's between 4.9 mm and 4.5 mm). After printing we run a 5 mm drill bit through it to finish it to 5.0 mm ± 0.05 mm.</p>
<p>Then we do a similar operation with the pin. Print it to 5.1 mm ± 0.2 mm (giving us a pin between 5.3 mm and 4.9 mm), then chuck it in a lathe or drill and carefully sand or file it until it becomes 4.8 mm ± 0.05. Now we finally have achieved our clearance of 0.2 mm ± 0.1 mm, which is a good enough fit for our purpose.</p>
<p>These types of secondary finishing steps have been used by craftspeople for hundreds of years.</p>
|
2022-08-11T23:19:44.767 | |creality-ender-3|petg|stringing| | <p>Both items were printed at the same time. The item on the right was perfect while the one on the left has crazy thick strings. Sorry I didn't keep the build plate's orientation, you can see how they were positioned in the Cura screen cap.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuShS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuShS.jpg" alt="Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't" title="Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7X3A.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7X3A.png" alt="Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels" title="Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels" /></a></p>
<p>I thought the stringing was from nozzle travel but if that were true the strings would be coming from the center pillar which they are not. Some of the strings shoot out from the left which doesn't make any sense.</p>
<p>I checked the bottom and it seems like the first layer is perfect or pretty damned close to it.</p>
<p><strong>Sovol Sv01 pro</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>This is similar to an Ender 3 S1</li>
<li>direct drive</li>
<li>Creality silent board</li>
<li>CR touch</li>
<li>Marlin 2.0</li>
<li>hot end I'm not sure what's in there but it has a V6 nozzle rather than an MK8</li>
<li>PEI sheet</li>
<li>K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting</li>
<li>All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Settings</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Inland PETG - Yellow</li>
<li>a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer</li>
<li>225 °C nozzle</li>
<li>70 °C bed</li>
<li>retraction 3.0 mm</li>
<li>print speed 60 mm/s</li>
<li>print acceleration 500 mm/s</li>
<li>jerk 12 mm/s</li>
</ul>
| 19754 | Thick stringing next to a perfectly printed model | <p>225°C is <strong>way too cool</strong> to print PETG, especially at 60 mm/s if your printer's extruder is similar to the Ender 3's stock extruder (going off what you said; I'm not familiar with your specific printer). It will be having serious trouble extruding, slipping in the filament gear, at which point you'll have too little material, so what does get extruded gets stretched out too thin and is under a lot of tension, and since it's not hot enough to bond well with the previous layer and also not thick enough to press well against the previous layer, it gets pulled across a diagonal rather than following the toolhead path.</p>
<p>Drop your speed for PETG to 30 mm/s or lower and increase the temperature to 235°C at a bare minimum. I would really call 245°C the minimum for PETG, but that's borderline too hot for the stock PTFE-lined heatbreak and will degrate the PTFE (and arguably offgas harmful fumes, although probably at levels way too low to actually be harmful) over time.</p>
|
2022-08-12T13:59:43.077 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|y-axis| | <p>On my Ender 3 v2 printer I recently and consistently get some knocking.
This happens in only two scenarios.</p>
<p>First, it now occurs all the time when printing the initial test strip gets near the top (high Y value), and knocks several times.</p>
<p>Secondly, it occurs if the model (sliced with Cura) has a high Y value (eg: if the model occupies most of the bed).
(If there is room and I move the model - in Cura - closer to the front there is no knocking.)
On the first 10 (or so) layers the printer sometimes knocks when a high Y value is reached and the entire model is thereafter shifted to the front by a few millimeters.</p>
<p>There is a third scenario. At the end of a print the print head is in the middle of the bed and moves up 20 mm then travels directly to the top left corner. At this corner there are 4 or 5 "knocks" (and the nozzle is 20 mm above the bed).</p>
<p>Any suggestions to diagnose/fix this problem will be much appreciated.</p>
| 19756 | Why is my Ender 3 v2 knocking & misaligning for high Y? | <p>Embarassingly, I discovered that the cable to the heatbed was sometimes caught between the on/off switch and the adjacent power plug. So, for high Y values the cable was very tight and the bed could not be moved. Presumably the "knocking" came from the Y-axis motor. The problem was fixed by attaching this cable to the adjacent hotend/X axis motor cable.</p>
<p>Hopefully this will be helpful to others who have a similar problem. Please add a comment if you experienced this.</p>
|
2022-08-13T17:54:16.610 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|underextrusion|print-failure| | <p>I have an Ender 3 V2 which is around 6 months old. Recently, extruding slowed to an almost complete halt seconds into a print for no apparent reason. The extruder works perfectly when extruding manually (using the extrude setting) and I see no reason for it to not extrude properly. I am using Ultimaker Cura and a new filament (my old one has the same issue). The print speed is 10mm/s and the temperature is correct for the filament which is PLA+.</p>
<p>After some testing it seems random when it stops extruding but it always happens within the first 10 seconds of the print starting.</p>
| 19762 | Why Does My 3D Printer Stop Extruding PLA? | <p>If it only extrudes the priming line, then nothing comes out for the model, this sounds like you have your slicer configured for extremely low or no flow, or wrong filament diameter. Check that any flow settings are at or near 100% and that the filament diameter in the machine, extruder, <strong>and</strong> material settings is correct (1.75 mm for most printers).</p>
|
2022-08-15T11:26:15.457 | |g-code| | <p>I have 12 parts for a model I want to print but I would like to know if I can put all of them in a single G-code file and print that on its own. Would this affect the model in any way?</p>
<p>I’m using PLA on my Ender 3 Pro</p>
| 19768 | Can I print multiple parts in a single G-code file? | <blockquote>
<p>I have 12 parts for a model I want to print but I would like to know if I can put all of them in a single G-code file and print that on its own.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You certainly can. The printer doesn't care how many parts there are. Many single parts, like those with holes, will have layers that have areas that aren't contiguous. To the printer, multiple parts look just like a single part that happens not to be connected.</p>
<p>That said, printing multiple parts at once means that the job will be larger and take longer, and a problem printing any of those parts can force you to stop the whole job. Because small parts have less area in contact with the bed, small parts are more likely to come loose from the bed during the print, so running a job with many small parts can be risky -- if any one part comes loose, you might lose all the time and material you put into the whole job.</p>
<p>One tool that can help mitigate that risk is the <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/cancelobject/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cancel Objects plugin</a> for <a href="https://octoprint.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint</a>. If you use OctoPrint to manage your printer, you can use the plugin to stop further work on any objects that have problems during the print and continue with the rest. <a href="https://youtu.be/ANfOr2F79LQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's a video</a> about using Cancel Objects.</p>
<p>Also, when printing multiple parts, be sure to check that you have enough material (filament, resin, etc) available to complete the whole job.</p>
|
2022-08-18T17:38:44.113 | |print-quality|petg|prusaslicer| | <p>I recently purchased a spool of PETG to try working with it. I have managed to dial in most of the settings in Prusaslicer but one, in particular, is giving me a problem. As seen in the photo, the clip I printed has extra extrusion on the inside and outside. I have noticed that the nozzle will pause at the seam for about 5 secs before continuing. (The bottom is not Elephant's foot, I just didn't clean off all the brim)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlK7I.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the front and back of a 3D printed clip showing extra extrusion"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlK7I.jpg" alt="Photo of the front and back of a 3D printed clip showing extra extrusion" title="Photo of the front and back of a 3D printed clip showing extra extrusion" /></a></p>
<p>I positioned the seam on the inside of the model. I know that the extra extrusion is caused by the seam but why would it also appear on the outside of the model?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RwLE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the Prusaslicer Preview of the model showing the seam and retractions"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RwLE.png" alt="Screenshot of the Prusaslicer Preview of the model showing the seam and retractions" title="Screenshot of the Prusaslicer Preview of the model showing the seam and retractions" /></a></p>
<p>I have printed the same clip in PLA without any printing errors. What setting within Prusaslicer needs to change so I can get rid of the extra plastic on the inside and outside of the print?</p>
<p>[I don't know what relevant print settings are needed to solve this problem, but will edit the question when I get some guidance.]</p>
| 19784 | Extra extrusion at seam of print with PETG | <p>After checking several places online, I finally got an answer in a Discord chat.</p>
<p>The solution was to turn off the <strong>Power-loss recovery</strong> setting on the printer itself.</p>
<p>After that was done, the print came out beautifully.</p>
|
2022-08-19T11:56:47.827 | |adhesion|petg|build-plate|dremel-3d45| | <p>I did my homework reading similar questions, like <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8296/petg-sticking-to-nozzle">this</a>, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7122/petg-filament-doesnt-stick-reliably-to-fake-buildtak-surface">this</a> and <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/722/petg-collecting-on-the-extruder">this</a>.
Here a video that shows the issue:</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YVTeJ6Tka_o?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>The filament is PETG from <a href="https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08BRDT3X8/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">JAYO</a> and the printer is a Dremel 3D45.
As you can see, the filament does not stick on the buildplate. The manufacturer suggests to use 220-250 °C for the nozzle and 70-80 °C for the bed.
Here what I tried so far:</p>
<ul>
<li>add purple glue from Dremel</li>
<li>bed temperature from 70 to 80 °C</li>
<li>nozzle temperature from 235 to 250 °C (below 230 °C it does not come out from the nozzle at all)</li>
<li>print speed from 50 to 70 mm/s</li>
<li>nozzle gap from 0.0 to 0.4 mm (in step of 0.1 mm). The video was taken with the maximum gap. When the gap is lower, almost all the filament sticks to the nozzle</li>
<li>fan speed from 0 % to 50 %</li>
<li>the filament is inside a filament dryer</li>
<li>clean up the nozzle</li>
<li>before each print I level and calibrate the buildplate</li>
</ul>
<p>Honestly I don't know what to do further.
From your experience what should I do to avoid what you see in the video?</p>
| 19789 | No way to stick PETG on buildplate | <p>I agree with fred_dot_u, you are too far away from the bed. If you can't get it after that, I would suggest using <a href="https://layerneer.com/products-bed-weld-original/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bed Weld by Layerneer</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBAt5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Product photo of Bed Weld by Layerneer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBAt5.jpg" alt="Product photo of Bed Weld by Layerneer" title="Product photo of Bed Weld by Layerneer" /></a></p>
|
2022-08-29T17:50:08.960 | |print-quality|artillery-sidewinder-x1| | <p>When I'm printing sometimes there is some "transparency" between the layers as you can see in the picture, I'm not sure how to name the problem.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2Axe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2Axe.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I've looked on google, somes people said It could be the nozzle that is clogged, I cleaned it and it doesn't seem clogged.</p>
<p>I've also seen that it could be the pressure of the spring in the extruder arm, I adjusted it.</p>
<p>I also checked the bed level and it looks fine.</p>
<p>With all thoses changes et verifications I still have the problem, not even a small improve.</p>
<p>Some time ago I didn't have any problem, I didn't change the cura parameters, and the problem is for every 3D files, not only this one.</p>
<p>In your experience what could cause this ? Did I do something wrong ?</p>
<p>I have a artillery sidewinder x1 which I use together with Cura. I print in PLA at 200 °C. The print bed is set to 50 °C . I use a print cooling fan at 100 %. The layer height I set to 0.16 mm, the line width 0.44 from the 0.4 mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to 30 mm/s for walls and 60 mm/s for infill. My retraction is 5 mm at 45 mm/s.</p>
<p><strong>EDIT 30/08/2022:</strong></p>
<p>I have tried to print the gcode given by artillery (which is the manufacturer of the 3d printer), there is two files a cube and a chick, I have the same problem except that it's only the infill.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMEtt.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VMEtt.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This file is supposed to be perfect for the printer so to my understanding the problem is not from the software setting in cura, but from the printer itself.</p>
| 19839 | Why is there some transparency between the layers of my print? | <p>I found out what was the problem here, like @0scar said I think it was the tension spring that was wrongly set, even if I had checked it before.</p>
<p>Also the real name of the problem was "<em>underextrusion</em>" and not "<em>transparency between the layers</em>"</p>
<p>Here is the steps I followed to fix it:</p>
<p>I disassembled the extruder by removing the screw on the side like on the picture, there is also two behind the FAN.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aybihm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aybihm.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>After that I had access to every gear that was pulling the fillament.</p>
<p>I cleaned everything, there was some dust but not a big quantity so I don't think I was the problem.</p>
<p>I also removed the spring and the spring handle. I change the tension of the spring to be as low as possible. Then I reassembled every parts.</p>
<p>After that I have redone the bed level and the spring tension.</p>
<p>Compared to the first time that I change the spring tension, this time the gear to change it felt easier, there was less resistance than last time. Even so I changed the tension to the lowest possible each time.</p>
<p>After doing all that I printed the manufacturer print file, It was ok, there was no longer under extrusion. Then I tried multiple file of mine, which didn't print well before all that, this time it was perfect.</p>
<p><strong>I think the real problem here was that some time ago I have disassembled the extruder and when I reassembled it I must have badly re-assembled it. Especially the spring part, since the feeling was different.</strong></p>
|
2022-09-06T21:30:15.640 | |prusa-i3|print-material|surface| | <p>Photos exist where the orange controller of Prusa printers is shown.</p>
<p>In most photos, it looks as if the surface is somewhat rough.</p>
<p>Here is such a photo:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JB0jH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JB0jH.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>It sparkles a bit, so I would assume that it's not perfectly even.</p>
<p>I do not own such a controller or Prusa printer, so I would like to ask if somebody could show a close up of what this surface really looks like and perhaps give me some information about how it could be re-created.</p>
<p>Thank you very much!</p>
| 19866 | How is the Prusa typical orange surface created? | <p>That texture you see is from the build surface, all prints you see are printed with the plane you see downwards.</p>
<p>There are several options to create such a surface finish. From texture coated heated beds to magnetic flexible build surfaces.</p>
|
2022-09-06T22:36:18.933 | |build-surface|anycubic-kobra-max| | <p>I have an Anycubic Kobra Max. It has a bed size of L430*W410.</p>
<p>I would like to print a rough surface as shown here:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SLXRY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a coated PEI build plate with a printed model"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SLXRY.jpg" alt="Photo of a coated PEI build plate with a printed model" title="Photo of a coated PEI build plate with a printed model" /></a></p>
<p>To do that, I need a coated PEI build plate, and I need to print the surface pointing towards the build plate.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://smile.amazon.de/BCZAMD-3D-Druckplattform-Doppelseitiges-Pulverbeschichtetes-3D-Druckerplattform-Gold/dp/B0B2RNRV5Q/ref=sr_1_38?crid=157VIYZ8GPGES&keywords=magnetisch%2Bdruckbett%2Btextur&qid=1662501414&sprefix=magnetisch%2Bdruckbett%2Btextur%2Caps%2C75&sr=8-38&th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">coated PEI build plate that is shown in the photo</a> was designed for an Ender 5.</p>
<p>I would like to know if somebody could point me to such a solution for a Kobra Max as I don't know what would be needed to "fix" it on the build plate.</p>
<p>Here is the full data for the product shown in the image just for clarification of what it shows:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ender 5 Plus 3D Printing Platform</li>
<li>Double-Sided Powder Coated Without Magnetic Foot Base</li>
<li>3D Printing Build Surface 377x370 mm/14.8x14.5 inch</li>
<li>Size: Only Double Powder Plate 377x370mm</li>
</ul>
| 19868 | Rough surface coated PEI textured build surface to fit Anycubic Kobra Max? | <p>Considering that the PEI coated build surface is smaller than your actual build platform size you should be able to fit the build surface onto the build platform at the expense of a smaller print surface area. In the past I have secured sheets of glass with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kapton</a> tape (very thin high temperature resistant electronics tape), but glass is stiff and rigid. You might be able to use tape to tape the build surface corners to the build platform. However, from the website: <code>supplied without magnetic platform side B, the plates are coated on both sides so you can save one side for flawless parts while you need the other side. The performance may not be good without the soft magnetic base to maintain flatness. Do not recommend using them separately.</code>, so you need to get a magnetic platform to use this surface according to the seller.</p>
<p>This makes sense, as the sheet is thin, and some filaments warp (by shrinkage) considerably, the sheet may deform. You could try to use double sided high temperature tape, but that defies the the purpose of the build surface, you need to get it off easy and bend the surface to release the print. Therefore, a magnetic base is required.</p>
|
2022-09-07T07:44:12.830 | |heated-bed|build-surface|anycubic-kobra-max| | <p>The Anycubic Kobra Max comes with a glass plate.</p>
<p>I need to use a textured PEI plate for my Kobra Max.</p>
<p>As I <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19871">understand it</a>, the PEI plate needs to be used on a magnetic bed plate.</p>
<p>Currently, there is no hotbed with a spring steel magnetic plate available for it yet.</p>
<p>I am still a complete newbie at plates.</p>
<p>Could I use an other magnetic plate for this, or do they have to specific to a certain printer (apart from the size of course)?</p>
| 19870 | Are magnetic hotbed plates interchangable? | <p>Usually the build surface is not the magnetic part, it is just a flexible steel PEI coated plate, so yes you could use a magnetic build platform sourced somewhere else.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Currently, there is no hotbed with a spring steel magnetic plate available for it yet.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Actually there are solutions, note that complete build plate and surface systems are sold for the size of your printer, e.g. look into manufacturer <a href="https://buildtak.eu/collections/removal-solutions/products/complete-buildtak-flexplate-system" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BuildTak</a>.</p>
|
2022-09-08T09:44:14.710 | |print-material|filament-choice| | <p>I would like to print a custom version of something akin to this rugged case that was originally created using injection molding:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oL8JW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="ea weather proofed tablet with over-molded rubber"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oL8JW.jpg" alt="ea weather proofed tablet with over-molded rubber" title="ea weather proofed tablet with over-molded rubber" /></a></p>
<p>The outside consists of a material that is a bit softer than the main body.</p>
<p>It is used to protect the electronics against drops when the case falls onto the floor.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, I don't know which material this is, and I don't know which method I could use to measure its softness.</p>
<p>I would therefore like to ask if anybody has experience with such a softer outer hull and can tell me which material could be used when I want to 3D print it.</p>
<p>I would like to use this case in a hospital environment.</p>
| 19881 | Which material can be used to print a drop protector? | <p>Case designers usually use TPU for flexibility and polycarbonate for stiffness</p>
|
2022-09-09T16:31:57.257 | |print-quality|troubleshooting|delta|underextrusion| | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaqNr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaqNr.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>When I print the gcode repeatly, under extrusion happens at the same place.</p>
<p>The under extrusion not only occurs on first layer. I noticed the second layer also has some part under extruded, but not at the same place as first layer, because the infill line direction is rotated 90 degrees.</p>
<p>I have tried the following but could not solve the problem:</p>
<ol>
<li>Delta calibration (leveling)</li>
<li>z=0 gap adjustment</li>
<li>Filament flow calibration</li>
</ol>
<p>It's a delta printer running Marlin 2.1. Slice with SuperSlicer.</p>
<p>The top layer doesn't seem to have under extrusion. There is even a bit over extrusion at the corner.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XF2Bf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XF2Bf.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 19890 | What could be the reason of under extrusion on some areas? | <h2>low-spots in the bed</h2>
<p>If the bed is lower in some areas, the line is not squished there and more rounded. As a result, a line appears to be "under extruded"</p>
<h2>High-spots in the bed</h2>
<p>In other areas, the bed might be too high and block the nozzle - the line looks under extruded because it is too thin.</p>
<h2>Uneven filament</h2>
<p>When filament is uneven and below nominal diameter, those areas create a real under extrusion in the area when that area is fed.</p>
|
2022-09-10T14:45:15.957 | |prusaslicer| | <p>It is difficult to describe with words what's happening, so take a look at the picture. Somehow PrusaSlicer decides to move and print in the air (blue line), where instead it can continue going from outwards to inward. I understand it wants to print first the outer layer but in this case it is obvious it will not hold that layer.</p>
<p>The final position is shown in the second image.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB1fc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iB1fc.jpg" alt="prusa slicer" /></a></p>
<p>The final step of that layer:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PCetc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PCetc.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Any idea how to configure PrusaSlicer to avoid this situation?</p>
| 19895 | How to configure PrusaSlicer to prevent printing in the air | <blockquote>
<p>How to configure PrusaSlicer to prevent printing in the air</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You need either support or change the print orientation.</p>
<p>You cannot print into the air, you can however print lines on top of a prior layer with a certain overlap, or bridge a certain gap. E.g. (screw) holes are often covered with 2 layers over the screw hole so that you use bridging to print (the cutout shows that the hole has a bottom):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nPEbf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nPEbf.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVQ5a.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVQ5a.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>After printing you need to punch through the layers to open the hole.</p>
<p>Starting and stopping extruding in thin air will result in deposition of the extruded material on the location the nozzle crosses a prior layer (often seen when support structure pillars have fallen over).</p>
<p>What is used frequently together with support in Ultimaker Cura is the option called <code>Enable support roof</code>, this will create a dense top layer on top of the support interface which allows for pretty good bottom surface of the overhang.</p>
<p>This e.g. results in the following slice:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QolNr.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QolNr.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>When applied to a recently printed flanged tube you see that the bottom surface is pretty good (note the concentric lined top surface, first image shows the product with support, second image, on the left a view of the bottom above support layer and right the support with roof layer):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZVtw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZVtw.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LmGO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="on the left a view of the bottom above support layer and right the support with roof layer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LmGO.jpg" alt="enter image description here" title="on the left a view of the bottom above support layer and right the support with roof layer" /></a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>How to configure PrusaSlicer to prevent printing in the air</p>
</blockquote>
<p>In PrusaSlicer you should be able to something pretty similar with <code>Interface pattern spacing</code> set to zero:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbHQr.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbHQr.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2022-09-10T15:02:32.360 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>I got my first 3D printer, a Creality Ender 3 S1.
I followed the Quick Installation Guide for the initial configuration. I also had to adjust the corners of the bed manually (the very first print ended up as spaghetti).</p>
<p>Now I wanted to try the first print, so I decided to print the "rabbit" that was included as a G-code with the SD card for the printer. I used the filament that was included with the printer.</p>
<p>The problem is that after half of the rabbit body is printed, the nozzle moves the rabbit, and the rest of the print ends like a spaghetti mess and I have to cancel it. This has happened three times now and I don't understand how to fix the problem or what causes it.</p>
<p>Why does the print of the "rabbit" fail mid-way up?
Are there any settings I should adjust? How should I figure out what settings I need?</p>
<p>I used the G-code that was already stored on the SD card, with default settings after adjusting my bed.</p>
| 19896 | Ender 3 S1 fails printing mid ways | <p>I have now got a print of the "rabbit" working.</p>
<p>I did a few things.</p>
<ul>
<li>Make sure no parts of the printer are loose. I had to fasten the extruder on the X-axis a bit better. (I think this is an important point)</li>
<li>I tried a different filament, <a href="https://addnorth.com/product/E-PLA/E-PLA%20-%201.75mm%20-%20750g%20-%20Aurora%20Green" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AddNorth E-PLA</a></li>
</ul>
<p>These alone did not solve the problem.
Then I did these adjustments:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>The AddNorth E-PLA filament had a recommended nozzle temperature of 205-225 °C. The default nozzle temperature of Ender 3 S1 seem to be 200 °C. The prints worked better when I set the nozzle temperature to 220 °C (in the beginning of the printing session).</p>
</li>
<li><p>I tried to use the <a href="https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ultimaker Cura</a> slicing software, instead of the pre-generated G-code file on the SD card. I used the STL file of the rabbit that was on the SD card as input.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>After these adjustments, I finally successfully printed the rabbit.</p>
|
2022-09-10T19:29:50.233 | |diy-3d-printer|resin|fdm| | <p>I searched about the subject in this website and could only find <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15457/are-there-fdm-epoxy-resin-printers">this question here</a> asking "if there is an FDM Resin 3D printer", not how to build it.</p>
<hr />
<p>The idea is to replace the inks for other fluids, such as resin and its hardener (and other fluids) and then add a Z axis "somehow".</p>
<hr />
<p>The thing is: I couldn't find any tutorial on the subject.</p>
<p>The closest thing I could find was <a href="https://youtu.be/lIVdwP0RAN8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this project here called Oasis 3DP, an open source powder and inkjet 3D printer</a>, but the objects are incredibly fragile.</p>
<p>The other type was <a href="https://hackaday.io/project/167446/gallery#2ba64e8a516cbe36d7f8b66cbd2d9b61" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this DIY that converts a creality 3D into a ink printer</a>, but it uses homemade nozzles actuated by piezoelectrics instead of a inkjet printer nozzle, and the results aren't as good as a conventional inkjet printers (not to insult the creator this is hella cool still).</p>
| 19898 | How to convert a conventional Inkjet printer into a FDM resin 3D printer? | <p>Sounds like you are asking for a kit. There isn't one, and there isn't likely to ever be one, because conventional resin printing and FDM printing use completely different approaches to take advantage of respective material properties, and combining them is likely to get you the worst features of both rather than something better.</p>
<p>Additionally, ink jet printing and things based on it inherently get you brittle parts, and attempts to combine this with FDM methods won't fix that.</p>
<p>Without a kit, you are designing this from scratch. This basically means you either need to be an engineer that can design solutions for all the problems up front, or you will be doing a lot of trial and error with repeated redesigns as you discover new problems -- not that an engineer wouldn't have the same issue without a lot of foresight.</p>
|
2022-09-11T21:53:43.643 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|jyers| | <p>I have an Ender 3V2 running a custom version of Jyers Marlin, and using a CR Touch as a Z-stop, and with a heated glass print bed. This is my first printer, and it mostly prints fine except when printing near the edges where some imperfections with bed leveling mess with bed adhesion and have definitely ruined a couple of my prints. The main issue is that the first layer is very uneven, where in some places filament it basically smeared onto the bed whereas in other places the filament is barely touching the bed. What's stranger still is that generally speaking, the infill seems to be more consistent in terms of z-height on the first layer, whereas the walls have much more variation. I've included some photos to illustrate the issue:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kv2SF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kv2SF.jpg" alt="" /></a>
This is the entire leveling test I printed (it only tests the edges because the center is fine). This was run without UBL - I verified this as the Z axis motor didn't move during the print (it's only 1 layer).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYaXI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CYaXI.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
This is what has been causing me the most issues. In the top right corner of the print, the wall filament basically disappears for about 1-2 inches because the nozzle is too close to the bed. This is pretty close to the top right leveling screw as well. You can also see that only the walls are affected, as the infill is pretty even across the same area.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgbvx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgbvx.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
Kind of the opposite issue in the bottom right compared to the top right, where the walls are printed too high off of the bed and start to string from poor adhesion. Once again, the infill seems to be ok (except in the corner).</p>
<p><strong>Things I've tried:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><p>Leveling with a feeler gauge. Incidentally, I always had issues with the top left and right leveling screws, where the top left screw would always be too high up and would be hard to adjust because the screw would be too tight, and vice versa on the top right where the bed would always be too low and the knob would almost fall off by the time the top right was leveled high enough.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Tightening/loosening belts. Doesn't help much, but I'm also not sure how tight the belts should be anyways.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Enabling ABL/UBL with G29/M420 S1. It just... doesn't seem to work, the leveling print will come out the exact same each time no matter if ABL is activated or not. I guess this probably means it's not an ABL issue, or that if it's an issue with motors etc. it affects the sensor while it's leveling. That's the only explanation I can think of.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Readjusting the frame so that everything is as close to square as possible. There is no wobble so I'm 99% sure that it's right, but I don't have access to one of those square rulers.</p>
</li>
<li><p>The Z screw does not move/wobble when the motor moves, I re-tightened the coupler for the screw and the motor.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I have not adjusted the X axis bar that holds the carriage and moves up and down, because the nozzle seems to be a little higher the further away from the side with the Z screw it is. From other help requests I've read online, it seems that usually issues with the X axis will result in the nozzle moving closer to the bed as it gets further away from the Z screw, which is not the case here. But would it be worth it to adjust it anyways?</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Given that this is my first 3D printer it's really kind of put a damper on the experience for me as even though 75% of the things I print are small enough to avoid the problem area, I want to be able to use all of the print bed without issue. Any help, troubleshooting, or advice would be greatly appreciated!</p>
<p>Edit 1: Took off the X/Z carriages and found two abnormalities - not sure if these are causing the issue. The nozzle carriage has a bit of space between the bottom of the X-axis profile and the roller. It doesn't really wiggle during printing, but it could if I touched it; right now, the two rollers on top sit nicely on the profile. Also, these rollers all have a slightly discoloured ring where a little bit of material has been shaved off of the roller. The Z-axis rollers on the side opposite the lead screw are the opposite case, where the rollers have to be forced onto the structure since it's so tight.</p>
| 19907 | Inconsistent Z-height on Ender 3 V2 print bed | <p>Just for anyone stumbling across this thread now: as it turns out, the wheels on the x-carriage (print head) were installed at a slight angle and not screwed in as tight as they were supposed to be, which probably led to some inconsistencies in printing.</p>
|
2022-09-13T05:20:51.723 | |filament|desktop-printer|enclosure| | <p>I'm struggling to find out an enclosed 3D printer that allow to load the common 1 kg filament bobbins. Most of the enclosed ones accept only proprietary bobbins (like Dremel or Flashforge).</p>
<p>Do these bobbins ( = 1 kg) rely on a specific standard I can search for?
How to filter out the printers that match my request when making a Google search?</p>
<p>I'm aware I can "easily" put them out of the machine using a custom support (or even directly in a dryer as I do for my Dremel) but this partially nullifies the advantage of the enclosure.</p>
| 19913 | How to find enclosed 3D printer that can host 1 kg filament bobbins? | <h1>There are standards for spools/bobbins/reels</h1>
<p>Looking for standards for spools, I started at Alibaba and then came to an actual European manufacturer or retailer of reels: <a href="https://www.hafner-spools.com/en/products/spools/spools-for-3d-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Häfner</a>. They manufacture reels for wires, which are also used for 3D printers. They helpfully provide a chart of their products from about 250 cm³ to a whooping 98454 cm³ - which is about 250 grams of ABS to in theory 98 kilos. However, typically the largest spool you will find for privates is the 300/20 K type with about 3800 cm³, which is more than enough to get a 4-kilo reel of PLA onto it. At times you might find something in the order of 8000 to 10000 cm³ for a rather heavy 8-kilo spool, though that is industrial sizing.</p>
<p>As this single offerer shows, spools are <strong>very</strong> varied, and the hub diameter of them is not standardized, but the boreholes only come in very distinct sizes.</p>
<p>However, <strong>some</strong> of the items that are sold as 3D filament spools are actually welding wire spools, for which standards exist, such as <a href="https://www.nationalstandard.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/NS-Welding-Wire-Catalog-2018-05-05.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> dictating "2‐1/32 inch" arbor holes.</p>
<h2>Scale of spools is dependant on the market</h2>
<p>Typical enclosed consumer FDM machines are small.</p>
<p>But spools below 1 kilo are not useful for mass-production of large parts and even then, 3 kilos is a sweetspot for handling between ease of moving and time spent changing spools. So industrial machines usually take larger spools - or propriatory cannisters/cartridges with a spool.</p>
<p>One of the big ones is the <a href="https://www.stratasys.com/en/3d-printers/printer-catalog/fdm-printers/f900-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Stratasys F900</a>. It has a print-volume of 914 x 610 x 914 mm and takes "up to 500 cubic inch" cartridges, apparently the largest size of FDM Filament cartridge offered by Stratasys. For the record: 500 cubic inch weigh about 8 kilos in ABS, and about 10 kilos in PLA.</p>
<h2>Modification of existing printers</h2>
<p>It is almost trivial to modify an existing printer that takes non-proprietary spools to allow taking in filament from the outside without keeping the door closed. A piece of PTFE tube can easily take the position of the spool inside the machine to guide the filament into the machine-mounted intake. The modification might only need a single small hole in the door for the tube or its fitting to get into the machine.</p>
<p>This way you mount pretty much an adapter for larger spools, but you bypass for example automatic filament detection with the spool unless you also open the door and slot in a "disk" of sorts that contains the RFID with the configuration of the mounted spool.</p>
<p>A random example setup, mounting the "outer intake" in an angled block at the center of the former door:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/L43i3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/L43i3.png" alt="an example setup" /></a></p>
|
2022-09-13T07:30:28.763 | |filament|desktop-printer|dual-nozzle| | <p>I know that a single mixing nozzle with dual filament input can blend them in order to make gradients. I also know that IDEX means you have two independent nozzles and you can make objects with different materials (or colors).</p>
<p>But I don't understand if an IDEX printer can still "mix" (on the layer of course) the two filaments to create a gradient. My common sense says it's not possible, but I didn't find a proof of that.</p>
<p>I'm NOT interested in a mixing nozzle as most of the time I will need two different kind of filaments. The gradient with IDEX is just a "nice-to-have" feature. Not mandatory, but I would know before choose my next printer.</p>
| 19914 | Are IDEX printers able to make gradients? | <p>Consider the task from the creation reference. An IDEX printer requires the slicer to direct each nozzle to a specific location of the model while it is being created. No true gradient could be accomplished as it would require both nozzles to be in nearly-instant-extrusion proximity.</p>
<p>I suppose one could create a matrix of colors in a manner similar to that of RGB LED color displays, but that's a severe stretch of the imagination. It would require perhaps a strong understanding of <a href="http://fullcontrolgcode.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">full g-code control</a> to place the individual lines. Additionally, there would be a limitation to two colors and the combinations thereof, although with the bi-color Quantum style filament, results might be interesting.</p>
|
2022-09-13T16:08:16.637 | |print-quality|adhesion|resin|build-plate| | <p>I am having some trouble with model adherence to my print bed. As shown in the attached photo, my model is pulled away at the sides leaving it bowed even though it is designed to be flat. Other than this "bowing", the model is of good quality.</p>
<p>The model is printed solid on an Anycubic Photon M3 Plus with Anycubic 3D Printing UV Sensitive Resin. My print settings are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Bottom layer count: 6</li>
<li>Bottom layer exposure: 22 secs (also tried 30 secs and 40 secs with the same results)</li>
<li>Normal layer height: 0.05 mm</li>
<li>Normal layer exposure: 2.5 secs</li>
<li>Off time: 0.5 secs</li>
<li>Z lift height: 6 mm</li>
<li>Z lift speed : 360 mm/sec</li>
<li>Z lift retract: 6 mm</li>
</ul>
<p>The bed is aligned. Could anyone suggest what is wrong and what I could try to remove this "bowing" effect?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmF9H.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Resin printed model with a bowing effect"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmF9H.jpg" alt="Resin printed model with a bowing effect" title="Resin printed model with a bowing effect" /></a></p>
| 19917 | How to keep model flat in resin printing? | <ul>
<li><p>It's most likely that your bed does not mechanically reach the correct position before the printer starts curing the resin. Many printers and slicer software allow setting <code>wait_time_before_cure</code> to e.g. 6 s (I don't know about your printer/slicer). That means that once your bed has presumably reached its position for curing, it waits another 6 s to settle mechanically. If your slicer software does not allow to set <code>wait_time_before_cure</code> (or similarly named) but your printer can handle <code>wait_time_before_cure</code>, you can use the open source tool <a href="https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools" rel="nofollow noreferrer">UVtools</a> to do that. (Edit: I just saw <a href="https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/discussions/626" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a discussion</a> so it's basically possible with your machine even though not optimally so.)</p>
</li>
<li><p>It's much less likely that your FEP has become less transparent towards the edges of the vat. You could fix that by putting a new FEP on.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Bottom layer exposure</strong>: Once you increased <code>wait_time_before_cure</code>, you can go with something around 7 s.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Z lift speed: 360 mm/sec</strong>: if the printer could achieve the acceleration necessary, it meant that your bed could jump within less than a second to the top of the rails :-) Set it to something in the order of 50 to 80 mm/s.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Peel force is very unlikely an issue with this 3D model and orientation on the print bed. We have printed 1000 s of similar models flat on the print bed, so orientation is likely ok.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Leveling of the bed seems ok as the peeling happens on all sides symmetrically? If it wasn't symmetrical, bad leveling might also have an influence.</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
2022-09-16T20:45:56.450 | |fdm|support-structures| | <p>So far, I have only printed with SLS printers.
The results were great, but it was such a horrible mess, and precautions took so much time (gas mask, chemistry gloves, etc.) that I am now switching to FDM.</p>
<p>I would like to ask how I could print the following model:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJcpv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJcpv.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>When you look at this from the side, you notice that there is a gap, and I wonder how I could print this. I am not even sure how I could do this with supports.</p>
<p>As you can see, Cura also marks this region red.</p>
<p>Thank you for your any input how I could deal with this.</p>
<p>But I would like to keep this beautiful angle / gap. Having a totally flat would be my last option.</p>
<p>I have uploaded my model <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1c8AOqSGqpRCU_VBTrkbiL2IE1MAs7SUA/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>, if you somebody needs it to estimate how to deal with it.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NT5Jg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NT5Jg.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This is a screenshot of the support that Cura suggests. But I didn't understand it as I couldn't recognize anything.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3xh5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3xh5.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 19933 | How would I print a non-flat surface using FDM? | <p>The "typical" angle for overhangs that can be printed without support is considered to be 45°, although some printer/plastic combinations can exceed that value. Your angle appears well beyond 45° and is closer to 90° which requires support.</p>
<p>I have printed models with similar overhangs and the support material creates an unsightly underside. This can be mitigated with a dual material printer, using water soluble filament for the support. I've recently seen videos and images of dual material prints in which the second material (support) was PETG. In both cases, a decent underside can be expected.</p>
<p>Additionally one could use a method promoted by Angus of Maker's Muse in one of his <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPijCjz9G1w" rel="nofollow noreferrer">videos</a>.</p>
<p>I have used this method with quite good results. It effectively converts an overhang to a bridging situation.</p>
<p>In your use case, consider that your model is a rounded rectangle. Create another ordinary rectangular prism slightly larger than the main object, perhaps two to four millimeters larger. Remove a shape from the inside matching the main object, but create it in such a manner as to have an overlap of one to two nozzle widths.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, I see that you have a double overhang, as the initial rim is horizontal and the secondary is angled. This would mean you'd want to create a single nozzle width rounded rectangle at the point of the slope change.</p>
<p>The angled portion is going to require support or a substantially increased amount of added-in "crutches" of similar design.</p>
<p>For something like this, I'd recommend a plane cut at the point where the angled surface meets the vertical surface. Create two objects, perhaps add alignment pins and then glue it together.</p>
<p>If you print it in ABS, you can then acetone smooth the result and make the glue joint disappear, especially if it is glued together with acetone/ABS slurry.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5z0xf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5z0xf.png" alt="sliced frame" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmBb2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmBb2.png" alt="sliced frame 2" /></a></p>
<p>Images created from OP's model, screen captured via Meshmixer.</p>
<p>The resulting internal faces are perfectly flat, although possibly too thin for alignment pegs.</p>
|
2022-09-17T00:03:12.903 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>I am just using Cura for the first time.</p>
<p>This is what my model looks like in Fusion 360:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1tMc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1tMc.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Here is a close-up look:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDZ7B.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDZ7B.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>And this is what Cura creates for me.</p>
<p>I assume the turquoise area is a support structure.
Why does it do that?</p>
<p>Also, I don't understand why it marks the edges as red. I assume this means that there is problem.</p>
<p>Thank you!
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvaN5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvaN5.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTv1f.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTv1f.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 19936 | Why does Cura create this turquoise support structure? | <p>Each color has a special meaning:</p>
<ul>
<li>turquoise: Support (in your case <strong>Build Plate Adhesion</strong>)</li>
<li>Red: Shell</li>
<li>Green: Inner Wall</li>
<li>Yellow: Top / Bottom</li>
</ul>
<p>And so on ; you can see them if you click on <strong>"Color Scheme: Line Type"</strong> on the <strong>Preview Interface</strong>, and select what you want to see.</p>
<p>The <strong>turquoise</strong> is your support for bed adhesion (see the <strong>Build Plate adhesion</strong> tree on your <strong>Print Settings</strong> interface), the <strong>red</strong> one is your <strong>shell</strong>.</p>
<p>Nothing is wrong, please read the doc, it could be useful sometimes ...</p>
|
2022-09-22T12:42:01.263 | |petg|biqu-b1| | <p>I'm new in the 3D priting and I bought a BIQU B1 printer :-)</p>
<p>I printed the Pokemon with the white filament that come as a sample with the printer (PLA) and after that I bought the Inland PLA+ and PETG+ from Microcenter.
The first thing that my son asked me to print is the toaster.
Well, I tried to print three times with the PETG+ filament and always I end up after one or two layers with oozie everywhere and I had to stop printing.
I replaced the filament with the PLA+ and now it's printing correctly (It's 91% complete right now :-) )</p>
<p>So, I set the correct temperator for both filaments:</p>
<ul>
<li>PLA+ 205/60</li>
<li>PETG+ 230/70</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm thinking that for this type of object (torture toaster) it doesn't work with PETG because of the complexity.</p>
<p>Is that correct? If not, what I could be doing wrong with PETG+ filament?</p>
| 19958 | Torture toaster with PETG | <p>Like mentioned, one of the most important things with PETG and other materials such as PLA with woodfill, Nylons, some other materials usually with similar properties to PETG, drying is your friend. The main reason being is that the materials listed above are all hygroscopic. They have a tendency to absorb moisture in the air very well and it should almost be a regular thing to dry it for some ours before printing it. Some materials like Nylon cant be used even after just three days of sitting in open air.</p>
<p>The issue arises when you are printing and the moisture trapped in the filament is super-heated. If you print some and its been out you will get those pops and cracks while its printing, that's the result of the moisture heating and the water bubble exploding making cracks, leaving inconsistent layers and sometimes small craters.</p>
<p>I wouldn't say that the toaster is impossible but its a challenge, as it should be. The premise of the toaster is to challenge your printer and give you and insight into how your printer is working, in terms of your settings. Printing this model will be great to see how well your retraction, bridging, tolerance, and temps are. While I would generally say try it out, it does take some time so going with some easier prints like retraction cubes, temp towers, and simple bridges may be better and easier on filament use when starting off.</p>
<p>If the extruder is slipping, attempt to add a slight more tension but not too much. As mentioned before, it really is a better thing to grab a cheap aluminum kit from Amazon or a hobby store online. The reason being is that the idler will no longer be a smooth roller bearing but instead have teeth as well to help hold on, the aluminum is also much stronger and can hold up in the case you get a jam for any reason.</p>
|
2022-09-26T12:17:19.277 | |hotend|nozzle|ptfe-tube| | <p>I have an HBot 3D 1.1 printer (it's a CoreXY style printer, newer versions are produced by ZMorph). I think that a filament guide tube inside the hotend got damaged, resulting in decreased diameter, which means I can't push the filament through it. It stops halfway through the heatsink (black marker in the attached photo).</p>
<p>I need some help, I'm not sure how to disassemble this type of hotend. With my Ender 3 which I have at home, I can just unscrew the nozzle since it's simply a hexagonal nut, but here it seems that the nozzle and heat block are one part and I don't think I can unscrew the heat block and the heatsink. I'm not sure what to do.</p>
<p>I'm sure the nozzle itself isn't clogged. I've done some cold-pulling on one end, inserted a thin wire from the other, and examined the insides with a flashlight.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pkoj3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the heat block and nozzle of the HBot 3D printer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pkoj3.jpg" alt="Photo of the heat block and nozzle of the HBot 3D printer" title="Photo of the heat block and nozzle of the HBot 3D printer" /></a></p>
| 19974 | Changing a teflon tube inside a hotend, help with disassembly | <p>This is an old hotend type, it is called a <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=j+head+nozzle" rel="noreferrer">J-Head</a> (see e.g. the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/J_Head_Nozzle#Mk_V" rel="noreferrer">J-Head Nozzle Mk V</a>, I'm unsure which exact version you have). The hotend is serviceable, you can buy separate "nozzles" (with integrated heater block) for it in <a href="https://www.123-3d.nl/3D-printer-onderdelen/Extruder/J-Head-p388.html" rel="noreferrer">some e-shops</a>. You should be able to unscrew the "nozzle" from the PEEK nozzle holder. The milled flat surfaces indicate that you can use a 13 mm or 1/2" open-end wrench to disassemble the PEEK nozzle holder.</p>
<p>The "nozzle":</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3MXz.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a3MXz.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The instruction to assemble such a hotend are:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Mk V</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Secure the brass nozzle in a vise by the heater section.</li>
<li>Wrap a couple of turns of PTFE tape (plumbing tape) around the brass threads.</li>
<li>Screw the nozzle holder down onto the nozzle. If no flats are milled, use a pair of pliers to tighten the nozzle. The nozzle holder can be protected from the pliers by first wrapping it with a rag or paper towel. If there are flats milled, a 13 mm (1/2") open-end wrench can be used to tighten the nozzle.</li>
<li>Remove the brass nozzle from the vise.</li>
<li>Slide the PTFE liner down into the nozzle holder. The PTFE liner needs to be inserted such that the flat end is making contact with the brass and the internally tapered end is towards the top.
Install the washer.</li>
<li>Screw in the hollow-lock socket set screw. Ensure that the washer stays centered while tightening this set screw. Use a piece of filament to ensure that the set screw is not too tight as the liner can become compressed and obstruct the passage. If this happens, slightly loosen the set screw.</li>
</ol>
</blockquote>
<p>To disassemble you need to reverse the order.</p>
<p>You need to ask yourself it you want to change to a newer type of hotend, but generally, these are higher, e.g. compared to a V6:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2XnBm.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2XnBm.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2022-09-27T17:15:18.513 | |prusa-i3|hotend|wiring| | <p>Recently, I accidentally shorted out my heater cartridge when trying to do my first nozzle swap on my Prusa MK3S+. I just ordered a new E3D v6 Hotend with 30 W Heater Cartridge and it will be here in a few days. I just cut the wire from my heater cartridge to my heat block (long story short, I can't remove it from the block). I'm not sure I understand exactly the wattage though. The heater cartridge that came with my Prusa MK3S+ is 40 W. Does that mean the actual cartridge or the plug into the board? Also, can I just solder the existing 40 W wires to the new 30 W cartridge? If so, does it need to be a precise solder (I'm not very good at precise soldering) Finally, can I just wrap the connection in electrical tape? Sorry for so many questions; this is my first time trying to understand the electrical component of 3D Printing. Any help would be appreciated.</p>
<p>I can't replace my individual heater cartridge because the screw was melted in. I checked my mainboard fuses and they are fine. My printer still powers on, all the motors work fine, and even the bed heater works. I cut the wires at the heater cartridge and left them in the air not touching, and now it thinks it's heating up, so I think that I can deduce that the wires were touching the heater cartridge, and I wasn't able to separate them. Unfortunately, I don't have a wire crimper and am trying to keep this fix as simple as possible.</p>
<p><strong>Note:</strong></p>
<p>After using a 30 W heater on my MK3S+ for a while, I started getting thermal runaway problems somehow, and I have switched over to E3D Revo Six for the safer PTC heating element.</p>
| 19982 | Using 40W adapter on 30W heater cartridge? | <p>There's a lot going on in this question, and I think you would have done better to ask first before ordering anything how to fix your printer. It's not even clear what part is damaged. A heater cartridge itself can't be damaged by shorting, as that's basically the normal mode of operation for it. However, if you shorted the leads going into it to one another, bypassing the heater, those wires <strong>or more likely your mainboard</strong> could be toast. Or you might just have broken a wire.</p>
<p>Moreover, it doesn't make sense why you ordered a whole replacement hotend, much less one that's a downgrade for your printer. The E3D V6 is woefully underpowered at 30W. 40W is a bare minimum nowadays.</p>
<p>To answer your specific question points, normally heater cartridges and preassembled hotends come with wires long enough, and proper gauge, to go all the way to the terminals on the mainboard. Some, however, have short wires and some sort of connector. If it has long wires, it's best to just run them all the way to the mainboard as intended rather than splicing. If you do need to splice wire or add a connector, wiring that was made for a higher current will be fine for lower current (as long as it's undamaged). Solder joints are generally not a good idea, though, as they will undergo wear when the wire moves with the toolhead. My understanding is that it's better to use some sort of crimp splice.</p>
<p>And of course, before you do any of this, try to determine whether your controller board is what's damaged. If so, which I think is fairly likely, then you need to either repair or replace it, not the hotend. Connecting a multimeter (in voltage mode) or light bulb of the appropriate voltage to the heater terminal on the board and trying to run the heater would tell you immediately if it's bad (no output) but won't necessarily tell you that it's good.</p>
|
2022-09-29T07:43:24.603 | |pla|rafts|dremel-3d45| | <p>I'm facing a weird problem I cannot understand why it happens.
Most of my objects have a large planar base so I don't have any adhesion issue.
I'm using a PLA Silk gold filament from eSun (filament dryer is on while printing) and a Dremel 3D45 printer.</p>
<p>This is the bottom (first layer) of an object printed directly on the (glass) bed:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fggw4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fggw4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xig7J.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xig7J.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Then I tried another object (very similar) using a raft. The raft itself is almost perfect:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5mW1.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5mW1.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>But, again, the first layer of the actual object (only 0,1 mm air gap from the raft) has the same problems of the first one:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqH5o.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqH5o.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The most relevant settings I'm using in Cura are:</p>
<ul>
<li>layer height: 0.2 mm</li>
<li>initial layer height: 0.3 mm</li>
<li>top/bottom line width: 0.4 mm</li>
<li>initial layer line width: 100%</li>
<li>top/bottom thickness: 0.8 mm</li>
<li>nozzle temperature: 205 °C</li>
<li>nozzle temperature initial layer: 210 °C</li>
<li>bed temperature: 60 °C</li>
<li>bed temperature initial layer: 65 °C</li>
<li>print speed: 50 mm/s</li>
<li>print speed initial layer: 25 mm/s</li>
<li>cooling: 100%</li>
<li>initial fan speed: 0%</li>
<li>regular fan speed at height: 0.3 mm</li>
</ul>
<p>I enabled the auto-calibration before each print.</p>
| 19987 | Why raft is printed much better than the actual first layer? | <p>Based on the scarring and the appearance of the printed holes, it looks as if the nozzle to bed distance is not good, it is probably too large (could be too close as well, if you consider the scarring where the nozzle might have picked up already deposited material). The bed is also quite hot, for PLA you could drop this to 50 °C</p>
<p>Note that an initial layer height of 0.3 mm is also quite large, it causes a lot of material to be deposited while there might be too much/too little room for the amount. Printing on glass should give you a shiny mirror glaze finish (unless the glass is textured); the images don't express that feature from printing on glass build platforms.</p>
<p>A raft generally shouldn't be necessary for PLA (but some exceptions may apply), but certainly not for large planar based prints with a decent amount of surface area in contact with the bed. It is hard to get a <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/19922/">nice surface on top of a raft/support structure</a>.</p>
<p>Rafts generally print very well as there is extra space in between the deposited lines, and there usually is some over-extrusion.</p>
|
2022-09-29T13:41:26.263 | |g-code|print-material| | <p>I had a model I had originally printed in PLA, and then lost the STL... but I still have the G-code. Now I want to print it in PET-G. Do I need to do anything other than update the numbers on the M104 and M90 instructions near the top of the file to set for new hot end and bed temperatures to get it to print properly?</p>
<p>I know some materials I might also need to adjust speeds, but it seems like with PLA<=>PET-G those two items ought to be enough. Is there anything else I should check?</p>
| 19989 | Editing a G-code file for different material | <p>Tired of waiting, the print is now 40% done and seems to be just fine.</p>
<p>Thinking through my own problem more, there are three other things I might want to check (other than base speeds, as mentioned in the question) if I do this in the future:</p>
<ol>
<li>Cooling. Some materials need the cooling fan set differently. This should also be a single line edit near the top of the file.</li>
<li>Retraction. Some materials need different retraction settings to control stringing, and in fact I do find I often need retraction to be a little more aggressive for PET-G vs PLA, even if this one print came out okay. This change is needed for every retraction instruction, instead of just once at the top of the file, but I could probably adjust it via a simple find/replace in the file.</li>
<li>Travel Speed. Some materials need faster travel moves, also for stringing. This manages a trade-off between speed and quality. One <em>could</em> just always set for the fastest travel speed, which both improves print times and stringing, but faster travel moves sometimes result in ringing/ghosting at the corners, and so there's a balance that can be different per material type. This <em>might</em> be adjustable with a find/replace, but I would want to read through the file some to be sure we don't use similar gcode/speed numbers for anything else. It may also be possible to use strong accelleration/jerk controls to compensate for consistently faster travel moves, in which case I could set my slicer to use fast speeds that still always work, regardless of material.</li>
</ol>
|
2022-10-01T16:36:32.280 | |print-material|safety|material|health| | <p>Are 3D prints safe to touch right after printing? If not should I do some kind of curing (like in resin printing) when my prints are done or wash them with alcohol or something.</p>
| 19998 | Are 3D prints safe to touch right after printing? | <h2>FFF/FDM: Yes</h2>
<p>FDM/FFF runs by melting a filament and letting it cool again. As soon as the printed parts are cooled down to below 50°C (which is rather quick) handling them is safe. There's no chemical process involved, it is a pure physical, thermoplastic process, and the plastic re-solidifies as the part is cooled down.</p>
<p>It is far more likely to get damage from touching the hotend than from the printed part.</p>
<h2>SLS/DLMS aka Fused Powder prints: Yes but...</h2>
<p>SLS/DLMS runs by pointing a high-powered laser on a fine powder and melting/smelting/welding/sintering it together. While such powder prints, no matter what type of powder they are made from, are safe for your <em>hands</em> to touch, the fine powders are very bad for your lungs. Handling such prints requires breathing protection until they are dusted off, usually using compressed air.</p>
<p>For stability, some are impregnated with resins after print, which requires hand protection till the resins are cured.</p>
<h2>DLP/SLA aka "Resin": NO</h2>
<p>Resin parts are made by curing a liquid resin.</p>
<p>The most common type is DLP/SLA, where a laser or light source cures the resin at the bottom of a vat and the model is pulled up from. As a result, they come coated in liquid, uncured resin. These resins are a known skin irritant, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8594/best-way-to-deal-with-resin-printers-in-your-living-space">and their fumes can be an irritant too</a>. In general, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18088/running-sla-printer-in-the-bedroom/18134#18134">keep them in a dedicated workshop</a>.</p>
<p>Because of this, these prints are <strong>not</strong> safe to handle barehanded and need to be washed and cured after printing.</p>
<h2>Polyjet Resin Printing: kindoff</h2>
<p>There's a method of resin printing that is more akin to an inkjet printer, such as the <a href="https://www.stratasys.com/en/guide-to-3d-printing/technologies-and-materials/polyjet-technology/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Stratasys Polyjet system</a>. Those prints don't come coated in resin and come out cured to a point where handling them is safe, but those are (as of 2022) industrial machines, and even as <a href="https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/question-of-the-week-polyjet-patents" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the PolyJet core patent expired in 2019</a>, it is a market that nobody jumped at, especially considering many of the advanced features like full-color Polyjet using CMYB is under patent still. Oh, and apparently, even in 2022, only one other company managed to make a functional Polyjet machine that is ripe for the market, which is super tiny in the first place.</p>
<p>Back to topic. While the parts come out fully cured, polyjet printing itself is messy. You absolutely need support material <strong>everywhere</strong>. It is safe to touch, but in the dissolution stage of the support material, it is most certainly not safe to touch.</p>
|
2022-10-02T12:51:41.797 | |ultimaker-cura|filament|petg|colorfabb-xt| | <p>I am trying to print ColorFabb XT-Filament PETG on my Kobra Max, and I get the following results:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq046.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Mess"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq046.jpg" alt="Mess" title="Mess" /></a></p>
<p>These are my Cura settings:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNcQF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Cura settings"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNcQF.png" alt="Cura settings" title="Cura settings" /></a></p>
| 20007 | What is this situation called and how do I avoid it? | <h2>WAY too low print temperature/wrong material Profile</h2>
<p>That's a PLA profile with 195 °C on the printhead. PETG is recommended between 230 °C and 250 °C. Load a PETG-Profile. in Cura, the material (which dictates print temperature) is a separate thing and can be swapped independent of many other settings, especially how detailed you print. However, very careful piece of advice:</p>
<p><strong>Save your profile before swapping materials!</strong></p>
|
2022-10-04T12:20:24.290 | |adhesion|safety|health| | <p>I just purchased the PrimaFix heated bed adhesive for my 3D printer. I read on the back of the box that it's dangerous when it comes in contact with the eyes, skin, mouth and when swallowed.</p>
<p>After printing, is it safe to touch the first layer? If not, what should I do to make it safe to touch?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LdI1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LdI1.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 20015 | Is the first layer safe to touch after printing with heated bed adhesive (PrimaFix)? | <p>This is a general purpose catch all warning that some people with sensitive skin might have a rash like reaction, and you should never put these things in your mouth or eyes anyway.</p>
<p>It just means that you should treat it like you would super glue.</p>
<p>Once it's dry it's inert and safe to handle</p>
|
2022-10-04T12:42:31.440 | |pla|cad| | <p>I have a PLA 3D-printed object made of several rings with a diameter of 150 mm and a thickness of 6 mm. The height of each ring is about 30-35 mm but it does not matter so much.</p>
<p>I'm looking for a way to keep the rings together (one on top of another). I cannot place anything inside the ring (like a thicker area to host a nut). Most of the rings may have a closed top or bottom, so I cannot access the inner part.</p>
<p>I'm using three tabs (at different angles to force the correct alignment) that fit inside matching slots on the counterpart:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSajN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSajN.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IiPn8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IiPn8.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>They are a bit stronger than pins and holes due to the greater surface of the base layer, but of course are useful only for alignment.</p>
<p>Due to the very small thickness of the ring I cannot place a screw inside them to keep in position, the inner wall cannot hold a screw!</p>
<p>I was thinking about L-shaped tabs and slots to fix the rings rotating them a bit, but:</p>
<ol>
<li>it would not easy to clean the horizontal leg of the slots</li>
<li>nothing would prevent to rotate the rings in the opposite way (even accidentally) so the disconnect</li>
</ol>
<p>For my use-case scenario, I don't need anything too strong. Just avoid to disconnect the rings when taking the object in hands. I tried with magnets but:</p>
<ol>
<li>to make an acceptable resistance I needed 7-8 per ring (due to their small size)</li>
<li>the electronics inside uses Hall sensors so I cannot use magnets!</li>
</ol>
<p>Any idea?</p>
| 20016 | Make a joint to keep together rings of PLA | <p>You could use velcro. I find it very easy to work with because you can cut it precisely with scissors or craft knife, and it's great for just holding things together but won't come undone by accident.</p>
<p>It's cheap and there are lots of different thicknesses at sewing shops. The ones I use come in sheets and have an adhesive backing. Takes a day for the adhesive to cure but once it's stuck on it won't come off.</p>
|
2022-10-05T07:43:20.790 | |pla|extruder|nozzle|print-failure|dremel-3d45| | <p>I use eSUN (Silk) PLA filament daily and I've never had an issue. I use the parameters suggested by the manufacturer:</p>
<ul>
<li>nozzle temperature: 210 °C</li>
<li>bed temperature: 60 °C (with purple glue)</li>
</ul>
<p>The extrusions are perfects (the printing itself may be improved, but here I'm talking about the extrusion) even if it runs for 20h+.</p>
<p>Instead with the <a href="https://www.amazon.it/eSUN-Arcobaleno-Multicolore-Precisione-Dimensionale/dp/B081Q78248" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Silk Rainbow PLA</a> filament, after few hours the extruder is clogged. No more extrusion. I have to stop the printing (and waste all) preheat the extruder, remove the nozzle and extract the filament. Then, feeding another kind of PLA I'm able to recover the functionality.</p>
<p>This happens ONLY with this specific filament!</p>
<p>I tried to increase the nozzle temperature up to 220 °C. It lasted maybe one hour longer but eventually failed again.</p>
<p>The filament is stored inside a dryer that is on during printing.
What can cause such a behavior? I have a Dremel 3D45.</p>
<h2>UPDATE</h2>
<p>Here some pictures. Some parts are broken because I had already thrown it away. The bottom layer is quite good:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFY1r.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFY1r.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Details of the surface of the base:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PlvSh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PlvSh.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEaRJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HEaRJ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Details of the infill and support structures:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KQFE3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KQFE3.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Weird enough both the comment and the answer suggest to lower the temperature but here the answer I received from the manufacturer:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>You can adjust the printing temperature to 230 °C higher, and then
adjust the printing speed to 40 mm/s slower. The plug is generally
caused by bad material fluidity, the temperature is set higher, you
can increase the fluidity.</p>
</blockquote>
| 20022 | eSun Silk Rainbow PLA leads to nozzle clogging | <p>I suggest you lower the temperature. There's a different sweet spot for some filaments even if they're the same brand. And it's not always the middle recommended heat on the label I have found.</p>
|
2022-10-06T03:14:25.903 | |print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|filament|anycubic-kobra-max| | <ul>
<li>Printer: Kobra Max</li>
<li>Nozzle: 0.4 mm</li>
<li>Material: PLA</li>
<li>Slicer :Cura</li>
</ul>
<p>I have printed 1 model 3 times with different settings (different temperatures and different bed temperatures).</p>
<ul>
<li>Try 1: 190 °C / 50 °C</li>
<li>Try 2: 210 °C / 70 °C</li>
<li>Try 3: 230 °C / 50 °C</li>
</ul>
<p>All 3 models show 1 "line" at some point.
The models are smooth all around, but then there is this 1 line on each model.</p>
<p>What is this error called, please?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Photo of three printed models with the same printing error"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg" alt="Photo of three printed models with the same printing error" title="Photo of three printed models with the same printing error" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 20024 | A vertical scar on the print surface, what is the name of this problem? | <p>I had the same concern to make mechanical connections where we tolerate a distance of 0.1 mm and these so-called "sewing points" making it impossible. I started to compare between the preview before printing in the slicer and the part printed before.</p>
<p>The problem is recurrent along a vertical line and always repeats itself at the same point. So by looking to the layer settings, there is a junction between the outer and the first inter shell. This junction could be avoided by modifying the "shell print order" parameter.</p>
<p>Here is a video shows the difference abd before / after picture. The line remains visible but the points disappear completely. You can set the layer height to 1.2 mm for better results.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ds5QcqMx6xU?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
|
2022-10-06T13:59:01.680 | |ultimaker-cura|pla| | <ul>
<li>Printer: Kobra Max</li>
<li>Nozzle: 0.4 mm</li>
<li>Material: PLA</li>
<li>Slicer :Cura</li>
</ul>
<p>I have printed 1 model 3 times with different settings (different temperatures and different bed temperatures).</p>
<ul>
<li>Try 1: 190 °C / 50 °C</li>
<li>Try 2: 210 °C / 70 °C</li>
<li>Try 3: 230 °C / 50 °C</li>
</ul>
<p>All 3 models show a seam.</p>
<p>How / where do I best hide this seam?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Photo of three printed models with the same printing error"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmV36.jpg" alt="Photo of three printed models with the same printing error" title="Photo of three printed models with the same printing error" /></a></p>
<p>These are some screenshots of the model in Fusion 360:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8b7D.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 20029 | How / where do I hide the seam? | <p>Hiding the seam isn't really possible when the object is rotationally symmetric. The closest you can get is hiding it "statistically" by distributing the seam randomly so it's fractionally-bad everywhere rather than fully-bad in one place. Depending on your needs, this might be good, or it might be awful. If you're hoping to clean up the seam in postprocessing, it's probably awful since there's not just one isolated point that needs fixing with a razor blade or something, but the whole print surface.</p>
<p>One thing you can try, though, is turning on <em>wipe</em>. In Cura this is "Outer Wall Wipe Distance". Setting it to 1-2 mm can go a long way to concealing the seam, especially if it's not bulging from ooze, which yours doesn't seem to be. Combined with random distribution, this might come out looking pretty good for your particular need.</p>
<p>In general, how to deal with seams depends on whether the problem is cosmetic or functional. I'm assuming in your case it's cosmetic, but if it is functional (affecting fit of mechanical parts together, making a printed gear rotationally asymmetric, etc.) then one trick you can do is make an artificial <em>cut</em> into the surface at an arbitrary point and selecting to put the seam on the sharpest corner. This can help ensure the entire print fits inside the intended print volume, and is only missing a small amount of material on a scale smaller than the functional scale of the print.</p>
|
2022-10-07T10:25:43.763 | |print-strength| | <p>I need to build me a small support wall 250x80 cm mounted on two metal supports approximately 200 cm apart.</p>
<p>I was looking into WPC (Wood Plastic Composite) boards and then it hit me that I may be able to make it functional AND pretty with my 3D printer (Prusa MK3S + MMU2).</p>
<p>However, I have zero idea on how to calculate whether the board will be able to handle the weight of the soil I would shovel behind it, if at all.</p>
<p>My current design proposal is to make a hexagon mesh of PETG filament. The hexagons would have cylinder cutouts in all three directions, through which I would then hammer in cylinders to bind them together. Perhaps even some edge contours so that they fit perfectly.</p>
<p>But, my problem is that I don't know how to calculate the strength of such a solution (or any other).</p>
<p>Is this even a viable idea?</p>
<p>The filament type needs a bit more explanation:
My current proposal is PETG since I read that PLA will become brittle with time (as I can attest to myself having to replace my flag pole holder every 3 - 4 years)</p>
<p>I don't want ABS since I have horrible experience printing it.</p>
<p>I did not find anything of particular use when searching for "3D print load-bearing" on this site and similar with Google searches...</p>
| 20037 | Can I 3D print a wall assembly and expect it to be load-bearing? | <p>Here are some general issues with load bearing 3d prints for this type of usage:</p>
<ul>
<li>If this is to be used outside, plastic has issues with both water and UV exposure making it brittle. PETG does better on both of these areas than either PLA or ABS.</li>
<li>Plastic generally does better with compression than with shear or pulling. In other words, hanging something from plastic might not work well but it might work as a bottom support or in a situation where it is squeezed rather than pulled.</li>
<li>Even if the plastic appears strong enough initially, it may "creep" where the plastic deforms under stress over time. This applies to all three of compression, shear, and pulling.</li>
<li>To optimize for strength, print direction is critical. You want to make sure that the stress will not be trying to shear print layers. Also (for any material, not just 3d printed plastic), curved shapes are stronger than square corners. A fillet instead of a corner makes a big difference, but more extreme curves are even better.</li>
<li>If you are going to make this out of modular pieces joined with a second material, it is very hard to characterize the strength of the resulting composite, but generally it is stronger than using a single material.</li>
</ul>
|
2022-10-13T01:53:05.310 | |creality-ender-3|extruder-driver| | <p>If I am 3D printing on my Ender 3, and I pause the print, the extruder lets out more filament for like 2 seconds. This leaves a glob of dry filament on my print, which the could contact the nozzle tip, causing it to slide the build platform.</p>
<p>I have fixed the build platform sliding problem by attaching the included clips. However, another problem remains. Once the glob is made, the filament dropped on top of it gets pushed up, making the print not be even, which ruins the print. I don't think I did anything wrong on the setup, but it might just be that the extruder doesn't stop in time? Did I do anything wrong is is this an issue among all Ender 3s?</p>
<ul>
<li>I use the Creality Ender 3</li>
</ul>
| 20060 | Extruder oozes filament out and slides build platform on contact with nozzle tip | <p>Working pause-and-resume without damaging the quality of your print depends on the printer doing a lot to preserve the primed/ready-to-print state of the printer and avoid heat damage to the part you're printing and to the filament, and on your using <strong>very well-dried filament</strong>. If any of these requirements aren't met, you're going to have a bad day.</p>
<p>In particular, the printer needs to do extra retraction (at least an extra 10 mm, probably more like 20+) to get the filament completely out of the melt zone while paused, and needs to quickly move the nozzle away from the print so as not to melt it. If this is done right, unretracting by the same amount just when starting will get you back to the necesssary nozzle pressure to resume extrusion nearly uninterrupted. Marlin firmware <em>can be configured</em> to do this right, but I doubt it's done right in the version of the firmware shipped with your printer. You didn't describe what happens in detail when you pressed pause, but it sounds like this isn't happening, so it's likely doing just a "dumb pause" in-place.</p>
<p>If you really want good pause functionality, you probably need to investigate customizing the firmware. This is not terribly difficult, but also not dead simple, and can go badly wrong if you mess it up. You'd need to weigh these risks against how much you want the functionality.</p>
|
2022-10-15T20:11:39.957 | |creality-ender-3|calibration| | <p>I upgraded my Ender 3 V2 with a BIQU H2 hot end and extruder head and a BLTouch probe. I updated the firmware from Ender website using <code>Ender-3 V2_32bit_4.2.2_BLTouch_Marlin-2.0.1 - V1.1.1.bin</code>. All hardware seems to work flawlessly, incl. all axis movements, extruder movements, heating, fans controlling,...</p>
<p>However, I don't know how to really proceed with changes to extruder settings. I found no YouTube videos or internet articles, particularly about "Ender 3 V2" and "BIQU H2" and what I found is not compatible.</p>
<p>From what I gathered, I need to change the speed ratio of extrusion and the gear ratio of extrusion. But I don't know how to set it on Ender 3 V2. I tried to configure the gear ratio. There's a nice YT manual for Ender 3 V2, however for the old extruder, so I couldn't measure the extruded filament beyond the extruder. I made a line 100 mm above the extruder with a marker and set the extrusion to +100. I got something like <em>10 mm of snail-pace slow extrusion</em>. So I went to the extruder's gear ratio and tried to raise it, but the value should be roughly <span class="math-container">$100 / 10 * 93 = 930$</span> (93 was the default and current value). However, the adjustment goes only to 186, and with that, I get a little bit less than 20 mm of extrusion. And I also suspect that the extruder's speed is about 7 times smaller (1:7 gear ratio) than what it is supposed to be.</p>
<p>So, could you advise or direct me to materials that explain how to set BIQU H2 on Ender 3 V2? Is there anything else I have to set, apart from extruder speed and gear ratio? Some tutorials mentioned about stepper motor voltage if I remember correctly, but again, that cannot be set in the menu. I'm fine with settings over G-code, as long as I have some clear instructions on what actually to set.</p>
<hr>
<p>Note:</p>
<p>I marked Oscar's post as an answer, though to me it tells only part of the story. But helped to clarify some stuff. Be careful and study the matter yourself, however, you should come to this conclusion and those steps for Ender 3 V2 and BIQU H2, particularly for setting the extruder motor current.</p>
<p>Disclaimer: Those were my steps and I do not take any responsibility for anything if you follow them. Check everything yourself and advice in the comments below, if anything doesn't look right.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Check you have TMC2208 - you should have the large letter <strong>A</strong> written on your card reader</p>
</li>
<li><p>Check your BIQU H2 stepper motor nominal voltage is 800 mA in the attached manual</p>
</li>
<li><p>Check the resistors at the stepper motor (marked <strong>E</strong>) on your main board are R150 (150 mΩ)</p>
</li>
<li><p>If all above is true, you should get Vref = 1.05. Based on</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p><span class="math-container">$\frac{0.8}{\sqrt{2}} = {\frac{325mV}{150mΩ+20mΩ}*\frac{1}{\sqrt{2}}*\frac{V_{ref}}{2.5V}}$</span></p>
<p>I separated voltage:</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$V_{ref} = \frac{0.8A/\sqrt{2}}{325mV/((150mΩ+20mΩ)*\sqrt{2}*2.5)} = \frac{(150mΩ+20mΩ) * 2.5 * 0.8A}{325mV} = 1.046V$</span></p>
<ol start="5">
<li><p>Measure your current Vref with positive contact on the potentiometer and negative on the card reader cover, using an appropriate scale on your Voltmeter, i.e. up to 20V DC. You should get something like 1.4 V, if you have the default factory setting. One hint: I put a piece of insulation tape on the cooler next to the potentiometer in order to avoid a short circuit in case the cooler is connected to the negative body - it's easy to touch it with a screwdriver. Remove it after the correct voltage is set. Or use a plastic or ceramic screwdriver.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Turn slightly the potentiometer anti-clockwise, about 1/5 of the circle for start, and measure the voltage again, then do a fine adjustment, measure again, etc., until you get desired value. I could set it from 0.03 to 1.02, meaning that I set 780 mA, slightly below the nominal voltage.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdeJZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of Creality v4.2.2 motherboard with parts marked for reference"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdeJZ.jpg" alt="Photo of Creality v4.2.2 motherboard with parts marked for reference" title="Photo of Creality v4.2.2 motherboard with parts marked for reference" /></a></p>
| 20079 | Ender 3 V2 calibration for BIQU H2 | <p>The Ender you have uses the TFT display. This display operates its own firmware, so when you update the controller board, you only update the printer function not the GUI interface. It is the interface that limits the input you require for setting the correct E-steps per millimeter as these are limited in the region of the stock extruder; it has no anticipation for using a much larger value like you need when using a large gear ratio extruder. When the correct steps per milliliter are set, you do not need to worry about the speed other than that you cannot use very high retraction speeds with high gear ratio extruders, if too fast it will skip steps.</p>
<p>Question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18876/">Adjust E-step on Ender 3</a> already <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18878/">explains</a> how you set the correct value for the E-steps, it does not require the display to set this. You do require either a connection over USB to a computer/laptop or an SD-card.</p>
<p>Do note that the stepper you use on the direct extruder is different from the one installed stock as extruder motor, the reference voltage must be set manually using a multimeter and small screwdriver, your driver's don't allow to adjust through firmware or G-code. This stepper should be limited to 0.8 A. You need to calculate which Vref you need for your driver (you probably have TMC2208 stand alone drivers) and adjust the potentiometer to measure the calculated Vref. You do not measure current directly, this is done through measuring the Vref (this is a measure for the current). There are many sources to be found to set this Vref, e.g. <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/vref-calculator-tmc2209-tmc2208-a4988/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>.</p>
|
2022-10-17T02:20:31.737 | |creality-ender-3|power-supply| | <p>I was trying to fasten the top screw on the power supply of my Ender 3, but it won't fasten. So, I took the screw out and found something like a little yellow ring stuck onto it. I think it broke because I may have over fastened it, but I didn't tighten too much... Is this the "thread" of the hole? Is it supposed to be so fragile?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxwMS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxwMS.jpg" alt="Img of ring" /></a></p>
| 20082 | Ender 3 power supply top screw isn't tightening | <p>Sounds like you've stripped the thread by overtorquing the fastener.</p>
<p>Your options are to use a slightly larger fastener and drill/tap the larger hole for that bigger thread. And don't confuse the screws next time you open this connector.</p>
<p>The little yellow ring might be a retainer so the screw is held <em>captive</em> in the part, or it could be a load spreading washer, or a soft area to soak up vibration and prevent buzzing/rattling and resonance.</p>
|
2022-10-18T16:57:03.020 | |usb|elegoo-mars| | <p>I recently ran into some issues where my Mac (macOS 12.6) was no longer recognizing the USB drive that came with my Elegoo Mars 3 Pro. The printer also wouldn't recognize the drive, so I used Disk Utility to reformat the drive to MS-DOS (FAT). However, after doing this, the printer still would not recognize the drive.</p>
<p>After some web searching, I found that the drive needs to be formatted using a Master Boot Record scheme, but Disk Utility was not displaying this option when formatting a drive.</p>
<p>How can I format a USB drive for an Elegoo Mars using macOS?</p>
| 20088 | Elegoo Mars 3 Pro USB drive formatting? | <p>Disk Utility can be used to format the drive, but first, you'll need to change the view settings to enable the Scheme options when erasing the drive.</p>
<p>In Disk Utility, from the View menu, select <strong>Show All Devices</strong>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcRf8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Disk Utility's View menu with 'Show All Devices' selected"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcRf8.png" alt="Screenshot of Disk Utility's View menu with 'Show All Devices' selected" title="Screenshot of Disk Utility's View menu with 'Show All Devices' selected" /></a></p>
<p>Next, you'll need to select the parent device on the left-hand pane, and <strong>not</strong> the volume:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0N9B1.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot in Disk Utility with the device selected not the volume"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0N9B1.png" alt="Screenshot in Disk Utility with the device selected not the volume" title="Screenshot in Disk Utility with the device selected not the volume" /></a></p>
<p>Finally, after using the <strong>Erase</strong> button in the top bar of the window, you'll now have the option to select the scheme:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RCU8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the dialog box showing the erase options"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RCU8.png" alt="Screenshot of the dialog box showing the erase options" title="Screenshot of the dialog box showing the erase options" /></a></p>
<p>Erase the drive using the <strong>MS-DOS (FAT)</strong> format and <strong>Master Boot Record</strong> scheme. The name of the drive likely doesn't matter. Using these settings, I was able to copy some files back to the newly-erased drive and the printer immediately found the files and was able to begin printing again.</p>
|
2022-10-19T14:03:52.960 | |3d-models|blender| | <p>I feel this is a relatively simple thing, but I am having some difficulty. The model is simple. It is 2 x 127 x 28 x π mm. It has one corrugated side and all others flat. The non-flat side has a flat area for text.</p>
<p>(Later deformed into a cylinder, hence pi (π))</p>
<p>The problem I'm having in Blender is a <em>lot</em> of non-manifold vertices after the union of the text into that area.</p>
<p>Is it possible to have the text and widget as two different meshes touching and come out as one object <em>in the print</em>?</p>
<p>Use another program besides Blender?</p>
<p>Manually editing the mesh... seems excessively time consuming.</p>
| 20092 | How can I incorporate text in my model? | <p>You have a number of options with respect to adding text to a shape. Top of the list would be the easy-to-use Tinkercad, but it may be too limiting for your purposes.</p>
<p>More complex, and coming in next would be the free hobbyist version of Fusion 360. In very many ways, a tougher program to learn, but YouTube tutorials may get you started on your specific objective.</p>
<p>My favorite would be to learn the wonders of OpenSCAD, a text based descriptor program that uses parametric modeling to create 3D objects.</p>
<p>It's not impossible to create non-manifold with the above three programs, but very much easier to create a working model.</p>
<p>If your final objective is a cylinder, it might be good to start with the desired shape and apply the text in the program of your choice.</p>
|
2022-10-19T18:37:35.863 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|bltouch| | <p>I was running my Ender 3 just fine with good first-layer adhesion/everything else but my setup changed after my Pi SD card got corrupted so I had to re-install and reconfigure my bed leveling via OctoPrint. After this my first layer started to look like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/apO4n.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Image of 3D print first layer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/apO4n.jpg" alt="Image of 3D print first layer" title="Image of 3D print first layer" /></a>
* this is the bottom of the completed print</p>
<p>IIRC I changed the following (and have tried undoing it but to no avail):</p>
<ul>
<li>Increased extruder tension (since it was skipping while retracting)</li>
<li>Lowered z-probe offset (since re-calibrating it was too high)</li>
</ul>
<p>This is with PLA</p>
<p>Running a modified Ender3 w/</p>
<ul>
<li>BL Touch</li>
<li>Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality CR-10 / Ender 3 Printers</li>
<li>PEI Plate</li>
<li>BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V1.2 Control Board w/ Marlin dev built 20210609</li>
</ul>
<p>Sliced on Cura 4.11.0</p>
<ul>
<li>Printing Temp: 210.0 °C</li>
<li>Bed Temp: 60 °C</li>
<li>First Layer printing speed: 20.0 mm/s</li>
<li>First layer acceleration: 500.0 mm/s^2</li>
<li>No first-layer fan (or any cooling at any point)</li>
</ul>
<p>I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Increasing initial Z-offset; this doesn't work since it will affect my bed adhesion to the point the print will pop off</li>
<li>Adjusting extrusion gear tension; will start skipping on retraction/no-luck</li>
</ul>
<p>After the first couple of imperfect layers get ironed over, the upper layers will not have any extrusion problems, or whatever this is, and are basically fine.</p>
| 20093 | Ender 3 first layer inconsistent layer lines | <p>Solved, the nozzle was set too low and was causing pressure buildup at certain points since the PEI plate wasn't perfectly flat.</p>
<p>After raising it and swapping for a glass bed I was able to stop this behavior.</p>
<p><strong>Note:</strong> While this helped this issue a little bit, it was also making adhesion really poor on faster prints. A better fix I found was that I recently swapped filament spools, it looks like the average spool thickness was greater than the previous one, and after reducing the flow 5 %. I was able to eliminate this problem entirely, thanks to the question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/5372/">What is causing 'droplets' on first layer?</a></p>
|
2022-10-21T09:08:51.197 | |prusa-i3|underextrusion|prusaslicer| | <p>The seams on my print are much larger than they were a few months ago and I'm not sure what's going on or how to fix it.</p>
<p>Pic with seams random:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X10pB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/X10pB.png" alt="https://i.imgur.com/PvmpsWb.png" /></a></p>
<p>With aligned seams:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EN0hf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EN0hf.png" alt="https://i.imgur.com/1GIDDz9.png" /></a></p>
<p>I'm using the 0.2 mm QUALITY profile with the following adjustments:</p>
<ul>
<li>200 °C temp</li>
<li>Perimeters lower speed (25 mm/s inner, 15 mm/s outer; prevents small overhang warping, faster speeds don't really ease the issue anyway)</li>
<li>First layer speed slow (10 mm/s)</li>
<li>Retraction Z lift 0.2 mm (default 0.4 mm; helps stringing)</li>
<li>Using Jessie PLA (Printed solid)</li>
<li>Filament is dry, fresh out the dehydrator</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://pastebin.com/fZhZXRAP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">My full slicer settings found here</a>.</p>
<p>I've tried lowering the retraction speed, increasing it, increasing the detraction speed to 2x, raising temp, and calibration of the linear advance according to the calibration test print on Prusa's website.</p>
<p>What I can do to make gaps smaller?</p>
| 20105 | Seams of print are underextruded causing large pits/gaps? (Prusa Mk3+, Prusa Slicer) | <p>I was able to more or less solve it by using the "extra length on restart" property set to 0.1 mm. Sort of "primes" the filament after a retraction by moving it forward a bit.</p>
<p>To lesser effect I reduced retraction distance from 0.8 to 0.5, lowered retraction speed from 35 to 10, and upped detraction speed from 35 to 50.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV8j2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV8j2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Left object is with new settings, right object is original issue.</p>
|
2022-10-25T04:10:45.107 | |troubleshooting|resin|repair| | <p>I have a Creality LD-006 resin printer and my FEP breaks very often. When I'm printing I heard a hard "tac¨" (it's because the cured resin is taking of the FEP when the printing bed goes up).</p>
<p>I'm using a Creality standard resin white with 2.7 exposure time.</p>
<p>This is how my FEP breaks (I replaced the FEP (it was original) and made maybe 2 or 3 prints and it broke).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1Wq2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Broken FEP"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1Wq2.jpg" alt="Broken FEP" title="Broken FEP" /></a></p>
<p>Could it be that I'm printing a lot of small pieces at once?</p>
<p>I have a smaller printer (Creality Halot-One) and I made more prints and I never have this type of problem. Maybe I can't print small pieces in a big printer?</p>
| 20122 | How to solve broken FEP | <h2>FEPs are consumables</h2>
<p>Once an FEP film on the foil has developed cracking, it's a lost cause and has to be replaced in due time - repair to pre-damage conditions is impossible even if you manufacture them.</p>
<p>You can try to avoid the affected areas and eek a few more prints out of the film, but the damage will spread and make the film unusable in the longer term.</p>
<h2>Damage to FEP can occur due to bad resin</h2>
<p>If your resin contains <em>any</em> chunks due to print failure, those can result in damage of the FEP.</p>
<h2>Bad Placement and high speed can damage FEPS</h2>
<p>Another reason can be too pointed pressure, which happens for example if the only spot is pulling up very high, and then suddenly releases.</p>
<p>The position of the printed objects can be as much the factor in this case as the size or geometry of the release area.</p>
<p>The more controllable factors that play into this are the lifting speed and height of the bed. It takes some non-zero amount of time for the film to release the model. During this time the film adheres to the model, and can be simulated as a spring. The force of a spring is dependent on a constant and its elongation: <span class="math-container">$F=k \times \Delta d(t) $</span>. Our foil would have a variable factor <span class="math-container">$k$</span>, dependent on the coordinate in the vat. However, for us, the elongation at the moment t <span class="math-container">$\Delta d(t)$</span> is relevant. By lifting faster and higher, the film is experiencing more elongation (stretch) and a sharper release from the model happens. Higher stress means damage to the film.</p>
|
2022-10-26T10:42:35.897 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>I am finally unable to reach adequate printing with my Creality 3D. This is how it prints a raft</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCpw2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCpw2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>As you see, thread is non-uniform.</p>
<p>What can be a reason?</p>
<p>Printing setup:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Nozzle is brass, 0.4 width, new from Amazon</p>
</li>
<li><p>Filament is PLA</p>
</li>
<li><p>Nozzle temperature is 220, bed temperature is 60.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I am using autolevelling with BLTouch</p>
</li>
</ol>
| 20127 | Print thread is non-uniform | <p>I found a problem: it is with extruder motor driver.</p>
<p>I tried to control the extruder with the knob and saw it that rotates with strange sounds and jerkily. Then I connect extruder cable to the socket of Z-axis on motherboard and also tried to control it with the knob. This time I found it rotates smoothly.</p>
<p>I.e. motor is good, cable is good, motherboard 4th driver is not good.</p>
|
2022-10-27T22:26:20.400 | |firmware|creality-cr-6| | <p>I want to know how simple is it to install CR6Community firmware</p>
<p><a href="https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases</a></p>
<p>I do not want to make low-level modifications for it. And also I want to know how simple is it to get back to official firmware?</p>
<p>I want to update because I came to know it has better calibration options and also I'm having issue with Z Axes that does not remember its position.</p>
| 20138 | Installing Creality CR6 SE Community firmware | <p>If you can reformat a (micro)-SD-card on a Windows PC (there are built-in system tools) and copy files to it, then you have enough skills.</p>
<p>Going back to the stock firmware is as easy as copying the files to an SD-card and having it inserted to the printer while it starts up.</p>
<p>After that you have to reflash the display, but this is similar to flashing the printer, as you have to copy files on a micro-SD-card and unscrew the back of the display to get to the card-slot on the back of the display-control-board.</p>
|
2022-10-30T02:22:11.867 | |ultimaker-cura|anycubic-kobra-max| | <p>I need to print a thin piece.
Theoretically, it could work, but Cura prints the walls as single lines.
In my case, it is just this line that breaks apart as you can see here.</p>
<p>Is there a setting that would instruct Cura to avoid creating such a line as the outer wall, or how else could I resolve this problem?</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Kobra Max</li>
<li>Material: PETG / PLA</li>
<li>Temperature: 250 °C / 65 °C</li>
</ul>
<p>Speeds:</p>
<ul>
<li>Print speed: 80 mm/s</li>
<li>Outer Wall Speed: 45 mm/s</li>
<li>Inner Wall Speed: 80 mm/s</li>
<li>Top/Bottom Speed: 45 mm/s</li>
<li>Travel Speed: 100 mm/s</li>
<li>Initial layer speed 45 mm/s</li>
<li>Travel retraction speed: 40 mm/s</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwP2L.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photos and graphic showing the point of failure of a 3D printed model"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwP2L.png" alt="Photos and graphic showing the point of failure of a 3D printed model" title="Photos and graphic showing the point of failure of a 3D printed model" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0Scr.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Cura's Print Preview of a 3D printed model showing where the failure happens"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0Scr.png" alt="Screenshot of Cura's Print Preview of a 3D printed model showing where the failure happens" title="Screenshot of Cura's Print Preview of a 3D printed model showing where the failure happens" /></a></p>
| 20141 | How do I avoid straight lines for walls in Cura? | <p>I'm pretty sure your core problem is underextrusion from printing PETG faster than your extrusion system can actually keep up with. Unless you've cranked up the acceleration, long straight lines are the only place in a print where the actual print speed will reach cruise at the requested speed; otherwise, all the time is spent speeding up towards that requested speed, then slowing back down for the next turn before reaching it.</p>
<p>If you have a single-flat-filament-gear, no-reduction-gearing, bowden extruder like the Ender 3 and most of these Ender 3 clones have, you'll be lucky to get reliable, consistent extrusion with PETG even at 50 mm/s (assuming 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 layer height). 80 mm/s is almost surely too much without upgrading your extruder.</p>
<p>Also, you didn't say anything about temperature, but low temperature will exacerbate this problem and lead to the failed layer bonding you're experiencing. Anything below 245°C is "very low" for PETG - despite what manufacturers recommendations may say. They write the recommendations low so that customers with PTFE-lined hotends (which can't safely go above 245-250) will buy their product, not because it actually works well at those temperatures.</p>
|
2022-10-30T11:23:18.843 | |slicing|creality| | <p>I'm using Creality Slicer, brims and other anti-warming or adhesion settings are all turned off. when I place an object on the bed a shaded area appears around it (See picture).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLzxT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLzxT.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Is this simply the area in which you can't print anything else in sequential print mode due to the risk of the print head hitting it, or is there some other meaning?</p>
| 20143 | What is the shaded area that appears around the outside of objects in Creality Slicer? | <p>Creality Slicer is a derivate of Cura. As such, all standard Cura things apply.</p>
<h2>Cura uses red surfaces to denote overhangs.</h2>
<p>Your upper surface is denoted as an overhang, this indicates that your item has its surfaces at least partially "upside down". The model needs to be repaired, as such can result in the print solution being "That's to be a closed surface", ignoring the hole in the center. The problem isn't the slicer, it is the generation of the STL that messed up.</p>
<p>About inverted surfaces, see also: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/7385/8884">here</a>, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19044/little-help-on-this-cura-slicing-or-model-error">here</a> and <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11013/8884">here</a></p>
<h2>Boxes around items come from sequential printing</h2>
<p>The box around parts is also usually created when you try to print multiple items in sequence and relates to the dimensions of your printhead. It pretty much marks the exclusion zone where you are not allowed to place the next item. Check if you have turned <code>print order</code> from <code>all at once</code> to <code>in sequence</code> and adjust as needed.</p>
|
2022-10-31T02:37:53.427 | |software|stl|pre-processing| | <p>I have a request to create a jigsaw puzzle based on a road layout, for a customised christmas gift. Imagine a Secret Santa present.</p>
<p>The city in question is Dunedin, New Zealand, which is on the waterline and has surrounding hills. I'd like to combine a download from <a href="https://touchterrain.geol.iastate.edu/?DEM_name=JAXA%2FALOS%2FAW3D30%2FV2_2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://touchterrain.geol.iastate.edu/?DEM_name=JAXA%2FALOS%2FAW3D30%2FV2_2</a> (available in OBJ, STL Binary, STL ASCII, or GeoTIFF) with an overlay like this in JPG/PNG.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3krb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3krb.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Last step before printing would be to carve out individual jigsaw shapes for printing separately.</p>
<p>I imagine each road would be a slight "trench" or hollow in the STL's surface. Clearly a filament swap would not work to paint the roads as they climb, so either coloured marker or a fine paintbrush would be used, followed by clearcoat to preserve.</p>
<p><strong>What software workflow would give a useful result?</strong></p>
<p>I've looked at blender and freecad and tinkercad but nothing gives any result close to what I imagine but I haven't the experience.</p>
<hr />
<ul>
<li><p>A low-res STL at 6.7 Mbytes can be found at <a href="https://criggie.org.nz/crap/V2_2_170.51_-45.88_tile_1_1.STL" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This Link</a></p>
</li>
<li><p>Importing the above STL into tinkercad returns this mess of triangles, not a solid shape. <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6nAgsF3lykG-dunedin-stl-imported" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6nAgsF3lykG-dunedin-stl-imported</a></p>
</li>
<li><p>The STL above displays perfectly with <code>fstl</code></p>
</li>
<li><p>But same STL fails with blender etc.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I am using Linux, but have access to a modern mac or an older windows 2008 host if necessary.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>I suspect the STL is not "closed" which is leading to all manner of difficulties.</p>
<p><strong>What would get me close to my desired print outcome?</strong></p>
| 20148 | Software workflow for merging a flat image and a STL? | <p>I was not able to perform the download at your link. Instead, I visited the touch_terrain site and approximated the location. The modifications allow for a thicker base, which I selected to 4 mm arbitrarily, eliminating the non-closed (probably) as well as exaggerated the vertical scale to 4x.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1b7J.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1b7J.png" alt="NZ 3D STL file image" /></a>
The result is satisfying and appears to have a minor validation problem surrounding the perimeter of the base, but no problems with the terrain.</p>
<p>If adjusting the base thickness does not resolve the problem you experience, consider also to increase the overall size of the model and use the tiling function to segment as needed.</p>
<p>For the roadway application, you can create an SVG of the map at appropriate scale. Thin lines will be problematic, but the thicker lines can be boolean-subtracted from the STL file. It will be necessary to extrude the SVG to sufficient thickness to impact the terrain STL in order to create the trenches.</p>
<p>It might also be possible, but far more complex, to use a feature in Fusion 360 that overlays an extrusion onto a surface in a uniform manner. Angus from Maker's Muse has a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Taymf_INu_U" rel="nofollow noreferrer">video explaining the process</a>, but it's a pair of primitives, not a complex terrain and may not apply.</p>
<p>With the permissions corrected, the file downloaded without complications. I note that the composition/analysis is in excess of 140K triangles (Meshmixer) and could create problems with some programs. Fusion 360 will either refuse to function or provide an alert.</p>
<p>I reduced the mesh using Meshmixer set to 70 percent, resulting in no apparent loss of detail, but fewer than 40K triangles. Tinkercad also dislikes high triangle count objects. <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/9lek02vmlx7lbbn/dunedin%20reduced.stl?dl=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The reduced file</a> will be available for download for a limited time.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4sOWi.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4sOWi.png" alt="STL file image" /></a></p>
<p>Image from released (reduced) STL file.</p>
<hr />
<p>But wait, there's more. After some additional thought, with consideration for your constraints, I think I have a workable approach. I'm not sure how you'd approach this first step, though. I used Windows 3D Builder to repair the broken base. Meshmixer shows the flaw but does not repair it. I suspect other online repair facilities will resolve this simple problem. I could have tried Meshmixer (plane cut) and certainly Fusion 360's plane cut, but only thought of that as I type this addendum.</p>
<p>Once repaired, I saved your map image and traced it in a suitable program to create the SVG file. Both in Inkscape and in LightBurn (a laser editing/burning program), the tracing went well. LightBurn allowed me to confirm that the SVG generated had closed shapes, but Tinkercad would not import any variation I created. I used Inkscape's Path to OpenSCAD which previews fine the extrusion to 10 mm, but it would not render, complaining of non-closed shapes.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2egv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2egv.png" alt="extruded svg file" /></a></p>
<p>There are "speckles" all over the map, even though I enlarged it to 200% scale to reduce that aspect of the lines. I suspect this will be problematic and suggest to locate a better resource, to eliminate excessive detail in the map.</p>
<p>Once you have that solved and can extrude your map, scale and align it to match the <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/8zo5xwijc3206eb/dunedin%20reduced%20repaired.stl?dl=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">terrain STL which has been repaired</a>. Create a duplicate of the terrain, also properly aligned and elevate it. The object of this step is to use the terrain to carve away the extruded map. If the boolean subtract does not destroy the terrain, great, otherwise, lower the extruded map into the terrain to the desired depth and perform another subtract.</p>
<p>This should give you the channels you require for painting.</p>
|
2022-10-31T19:15:55.457 | |creality-ender-3|bltouch|wiring| | <p>I bought a new 32-bit board for my old Creality printer, and now I am going to connect my old old BLTouch sensor to it. I got some instructions from the internet and found that it needs to be connected to the central pin on MoBo.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex6nD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex6nD.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This pin is marked "IN" while its purpose is to control BLTouch effector, i.e. it should be "OUT", not "IN".</p>
<p>Why?</p>
<hr />
<ul>
<li>MB (new) version is 4.2.7</li>
<li>BLTouch version is 3.1</li>
</ul>
| 20153 | Why is the pin, which is intended to control the BLTouch, marked "IN" on Creality board? | <p><strong>TL; DR</strong> - The pins are clearly named in reverse, and the <code>IN</code> pin is obviously an <em>output</em> and the <code>OUT</code> pin is obviously an <em>input</em>.</p>
<p>However, as to the <em>why</em>, it would be hard to guess, apart from the lazy deduction of either:</p>
<ul>
<li>Sloppy design work, or;</li>
<li>Translation/language difficulties/barriers.</li>
</ul>
<p>Without one of the board's designers posting an answer here, I guess we will never know for sure. A more generic labelling of both of the pins, such as <code>IO1</code> and <code>IO2</code>, would have been better, and less confusing.</p>
<p>In addition, the guide, where the image that you posted comes from, seems to be rather poorly written and I would caution you <em>against</em> following it - see below for more details.</p>
<hr />
<h2>Notes</h2>
<p>I may be wrong but the image that you show is presumably from this guide, <a href="https://printermods.co.uk/blogs/guides/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-motherboard-bl-touch-wiring-options" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality V4.2.2 & V4.2.7 Motherboard BL Touch Wiring Options</a>, which shows two differing wiring suggestions (<em>5 wire</em> and <em>3+2 wire</em>).</p>
<h3>The 5 wire</h3>
<p>A BLTouch with a 5 pin connector attaches to the 5 pin socket on the controller board:</p>
<p><a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0298/8661/1595/files/creality-5pin-bltouch-header_480x480.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer">original image</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/873lh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="5 wire configuration"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/873lh.jpg" alt="5 wire configuration" title="5 wire configuration" /></a></p>
<h3>The 3+2 wire</h3>
<p>A BLTouch with both a 3 pin and a 2 pin connector attaches to part of the 5 pin socket (the three left most pins, <code>G</code>, <code>V</code> and <code>IN</code>) and the Z-axis minimum endstop (<code>Z-</code>), respectively:</p>
<p><a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0298/8661/1595/files/3_2-wiring-pinout-diagram_207a5382-a3b7-46f6-a830-259f9b197317.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">original image</a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjmd8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3+2 wire configuration"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zjmd8.jpg" alt="3+2 wire configuration" title="3+2 wire configuration" /></a></p>
<p>Note: If the image is expanded and examined carefully, it can be seen that "IN" has actually been written on the diagram, just over the yellow wire - obviously this is just a blind repetition of the mis-labelled pin.</p>
<h3>Deduction</h3>
<p>Either the z-axis endstop or the right most two pins of the 5 pin connector (<code>G</code> and <code>OUT</code>) can be used to connect the BLTouch probe sensor.</p>
<p>The right most connector (<code>OUT</code>) is therefore equivalent to the endstop pin, and is (most probably) an active low <em>input</em>, using a pull-up resistor either on the board or internal to the MCU - even though it is labelled as <code>OUT</code>.</p>
<p>This leaves the remaining connector (the three left most pins) for the BLTouch motor/servo. Therefore, obviously, the <code>IN</code> pin is actually an <em>output</em> used to actuate the motor/servo.</p>
<p>Note: As <em>dandavis</em> points out in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20153/why-is-the-pin-which-is-intended-to-control-the-bltouch-marked-in-on-crealit/20188#comment38463_20153">their comment</a>, the IO pins of the MCU IC are configurable in the firmware, and so could be reconfigured as either inputs or outputs.</p>
<h3>Alternative 3+2 wiring</h3>
<p>The much more useful and detailed tutorial, <a href="https://tutorial.cytron.io/2021/10/19/bltouch-installation-for-ender-3-with-32-bit-v4-2-2-board/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BLTouch Installation for Ender 3 with 32-bit V4.2.2 Board</a> (linked to by <em>towe</em> in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20153/why-is-the-pin-which-is-intended-to-control-the-bltouch-marked-in-on-crealit#comment38413_20153">their comment</a>) shows a similar set of connections, except that the 5 pin plug is replaced by the dual 3+2 wire connector, with both plugs (the 3 pin and the 2 pin) connected to the 5 pin socket on the controller board (rather than having the 2 pin going to the Z-axis endstop connector, as shown in the previous guide):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVK87.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Disconnecting the Z-stop"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVK87.jpg" alt="Disconnecting the Z-stop" title="Disconnecting the Z-stop" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVk11.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Connecting the BLTouch probe input"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVk11.jpg" alt="Connecting the BLTouch probe input" title="Connecting the BLTouch probe input" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aoaeA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Connecting the BLTouch servo control"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aoaeA.jpg" alt="Connecting the BLTouch servo control" title="Connecting the BLTouch servo control" /></a></p>
<h3>Enhanced 3+2 diagram and wire swapping warning - 32-bit board only</h3>
<p>A better diagram of the 3+2 wiring configuration is shown below:</p>
<p>(<a href="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1834/5761/files/image_2020_12_01T15_50_53_434Z.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer">original image</a>)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MuXcm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MuXcm.jpg" alt="Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram" title="Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram" /></a></p>
<p>I found this diagram via the cautionary tale, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Pro/comments/kcz8px/creality_v422_board_and_bltouch_problem_board/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality v4.2.2 board and BLtouch problem - board fried!</a> on Reddit, which highlights the <em><strong>mismatch</strong></em> of the wiring of the various BLTouch probe/MoBo versions (the <code>V</code> and <code>G</code> pins may need to be swapped on the servo connector and <strong>must be verified</strong> before connecting and powering).</p>
<p>This mismatch, for the <em><strong>32-bit board</strong></em> is also highlighted in <a href="https://tutorial.cytron.io/2021/10/19/bltouch-installation-for-ender-3-with-32-bit-v4-2-2-board/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BLTouch Installation for Ender 3 with 32-bit V4.2.2 Board</a>, under the <strong>Swap the Wiring</strong> section:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>This BLTouch Kit is meant for 8-bit and 32-bit board, however, the default wiring is for 8-bit (green) board with adapter (hack the buzzer pin for LCD). No swapping of wires is neccessary for 8-bit board.</p>
<p>For 32-bit board, we will need to do a minor adjustment to the wiring. This is a <strong>MUST</strong> step, as the swapped wires are VCC (+ve 5VDC) and GND (0V). If you do not swap the wires, you will damage the BLTouch and it is not under warranty.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>(<a href="https://i2.wp.com/tutorial.cytron.io/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/BLTouchWiringSwap.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">original image</a>)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/THXUZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Wire swap for 32-bit board only - versions 4.2.2 and 4.2.7"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/THXUZ.jpg" alt="Wire swap for 32-bit board only - versions 4.2.2 and 4.2.7" title="Wire swap for 32-bit board only - versions 4.2.2 and 4.2.7" /></a></p>
<h3>Firmware</h3>
<p>For the sake of completion, and because the guide where your image came from <em><strong>does not seem to be particularly well-written</strong></em> - the firmware will differ, depending upon where the probe sensor is connected to, i.e. the z-axis endstop connector <em>or</em> the right hand pins of the 5 pin socket.</p>
<p>Either a different pre-compiled firmware binary is required or (if compiling the firmware yourself) some lines need to be uncommented in the Marlin source code, in <code>configuration.h</code> - which, according to the <a href="https://printermods.co.uk/blogs/guides/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-motherboard-bl-touch-wiring-options" rel="nofollow noreferrer">first guide</a>, are the following lines:</p>
<pre><code>#define BLTOUCH
...
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
...
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
</code></pre>
<p>However, I'm not convinced by that rather overly simplistic first guide, unless the right most two pins of the 5 pin socket and the Z-axis endstop pins are hard-wired together on the board, which may be possible, but seems unlikely. I would have assumed that some pin changes are required in the firmware (but I may be wrong).</p>
<p>Indeed, the far superior guide, <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-set-up-marlin-for-auto-bed-leveling/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram">How to Set Up Marlin & BLTouch for Auto-Bed Leveling</a>, shows that those three lines are only for the bed-levelling settings and a <em>multitude</em> of other changes are required.</p>
<p>Of particular note, if the Z-axis endstop is not used and the <code>G</code> and <code>OUT</code> pins are used instead, then make sure that the following line is commented out:</p>
<pre><code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
</code></pre>
<p>and uncomment</p>
<pre><code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
</code></pre>
<p>There are a number of other lines that need modifying, which are beyond the scope of this answer. Please refer to <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-set-up-marlin-for-auto-bed-leveling/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram">this guide</a> or some other <em>well written</em> guide.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://printermods.co.uk/blogs/guides/creality-v4-2-2-v4-2-7-motherboard-bl-touch-wiring-options" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality V4.2.2 & V4.2.7 Motherboard BL Touch Wiring Options</a> - poor quality</li>
<li><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Pro/comments/kcz8px/creality_v422_board_and_bltouch_problem_board/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality v4.2.2 board and BLtouch problem - board fried!</a> - cautionary tale</li>
<li><a href="https://tutorial.cytron.io/2021/10/19/bltouch-installation-for-ender-3-with-32-bit-v4-2-2-board/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BLTouch Installation for Ender 3 with 32-bit V4.2.2 Board</a> - very good</li>
<li><a href="https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-set-up-marlin-for-auto-bed-leveling/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Enhanced 3+2 wiring configuration diagram">How to Set Up Marlin & BLTouch for Auto-Bed Leveling</a> - very good</li>
</ul>
|