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2023-05-10T08:07:26.050 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>I am interested in 3D printing projects and I use the Cura program for that purpose. Lately, when I preview my models in the Cura program to prepare for printing, I encounter an error and my prints come out distorted. I am using version Cura 4.10.0. Does anyone have experience with this version? Could there be an issue with the integrity or the geometric compatibility of my files in terms of dimensions and size? If anyone has experienced a similar problem, could you please help me?</p>
<p>Thank you in advance.</p>
| 20922 | Preview bug in Cura 4.10.0 | <p>You are using a fairly old version of UltiMaker Cura, you should try a more recent version of Cura to test if it happens in the newer version as well.</p>
<p>Currently, at the time of writing, the latest version of Cura is 5.3.1.</p>
|
2023-05-11T21:41:25.310 | |resin|lcd-screen|elegoo-mars| | <p>I've recently gotten into Resin 3d printing with a refurbished Elegoo Mars 1 but I've run into a weird bug where the printer would not expose any resin to the LCD.</p>
<p>I tested it by taking off the build plate and basin and looked at the LCD when it was exposing the layers. I've tried updating the firmware and tested about 20 odd prints of various sizes and detail. With those I saw that prints with large individual layers essentially stopped the LCD entirely (The exposure would flash on the LCD for a second then the LCD would not turn on again until I completely restarted the printer). What is more bizarre is that the first test print I did worked perfectly and still does for some reason (which was the tugboat and a random miniature).</p>
<p>For specific printer details I have an Elegoo Mars with the C type motherboard. There are no burn marks on the wiring or circuits and the LCD screen was replaced recently with a brand new one. And nothing is misaligned or unplugged. I even double checked that the LCD was still functional with the test exposure tools on the printer.</p>
<p>From my observations it is a data streaming issue with how it is connected with the USB drive. But that is a software issue that I am not capable of knowing.</p>
<p>Any ideas on what could be wrong or if this has happened before?</p>
<p><strong>EDIT</strong>: Discovered that the Firmware needed to be updated to the latest version. Also, after testing out several very different print files the original print file that was having this issue was corrupted in some way as rebuilding it and printing the new version more or less worked. I also did another go around with cleaning everything and making sure that both the plate was level/tightened, FEP replaced, and that there was no IPA leftover on either.</p>
| 20935 | Resin printer LCD breaks if layer is too big | <p><sub>If the user, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/38284/illogical-consistency">Illogical Consistency</a> (who suggested the edit) posts their own answer, then this wiki answer can be deleted</sub></p>
<hr />
<p>From this (rejected) <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/review/suggested-edits/18929">suggested edit</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I had to dig deep into several other websites and found out that I had to partition my newer 32gb usb with a FAT32 4096 partition and only put the .SH4 .CBD and .TXT files in the root. On then would the firmware update properly.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>From <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20935/resin-printer-lcd-breaks-if-layer-is-too-big/20945#comment39750_20945">this comment</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I dug deep into several other websites and found out that I had to partition my newer 32gb usb with a FAT32 4096 partition and only put the .SH4 .CBD and .TXT files in the root. Then the firmware finally updated</p>
</blockquote>
|
2023-05-11T21:41:56.253 | |ultimaker-cura|slicing| | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HampD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HampD.png" alt="shape" /></a></p>
<p>I would like to print the outer contour without extraction, and after that print the straight lines between the contour. I attached a picture how Cura does the slicing. It does several extractions from the outer contour to print the straight lines.</p>
<p>Is there a setting so that Cura slices so that the outer wall is done first, without extractions and finally does the straight lines in between?</p>
<p>I am not looking for "vase mode", but almost. I would prefer a nice outer contour.</p>
| 20936 | How to print the outer contour before inner lines with Cura? | <p>As far as I understand Cura, you can't. It optimizes the path, this isn't always how we would think or like it to be.</p>
<p>To fix this, you'll need to write your own G-code, for such a simple geometry this should be very doable if you have some programming skills. It is printing an elliptical shape with cross lines, the latter all having a little offset from the previous layer.</p>
<hr />
<p>With limited programming skils you could also achieve some success. When the current sliced G-code is inspected in e.g. an online G-code interpreter/visiulizer, you could extract the correct path for the elliptical circumference (cutting out/move the parts that break the printing of the circumference as a whole) to ensure continuity of printing the outer elliptical shell. Note that you need to take care of the <code>E</code> parameter in the code as this must be reset e.g. using (<code>G92</code>)[https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position] to the correct starting point for extrusion. Once obtained you have a continuous printing code for the outer shell. Now you need to add the cross line paths to be placed after a move to the correct position. It would be beneficial to have the formula of the elliptical shape to determine the length of the cross line and the position it needs to start, otherwise you need to move the cross line printed parts here. This may be a lot of work to achieve.</p>
|
2023-05-15T17:18:15.680 | |scanning| | <p>A small [7 cm long x 5 cm high x 10 cm deep] hard plastic piece of my old luggage broke (see attached). The manufacturer does not have spares for this old model.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vsvl2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Broken part of luggage"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vsvl2.jpg" alt="Broken part of luggage" title="Broken part of luggage" /></a></p>
<p>Is there any way to scan the working piece on the left with an Android app and order a 3D printed one-off one?</p>
| 20954 | Printing spare plastic parts | <p>I used some thermoplastic. It does not look exactly like the original as I had to give it shape with my own hands, but certainly does the trick. It also costs less than $10 USD. Let's see how long it lasts.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zuPiU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zuPiU.jpg" alt="Fixed suitcase" /></a></p>
|
2023-05-19T20:28:16.370 | |print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|infill| | <p>I'm printing for the first times on my new Sovol SV04, using their PLA @ 210 °C (after printing a temp tower).</p>
<p>The walls and top layers are almost perfect, but the infill has a lot of gaps between layers:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/88c6X.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/88c6X.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I'm not sure which parameter needs to be tuned, since the walls are ok and I'm afraid to make a mess...</p>
<p>What could cause this behavior?</p>
| 20973 | Gaps in infill only - walls are perfect | <p>The infill speed might be set too high, but it's possible this is just some of the normal badness of self-intersecting infill like "grid" and "triangles". If you notice, these patterns have the extrusion path cross back over itself once or twice at the same points. Hitting this barrier of material already being there when the nozzle gets to it causes a rapid spike then drop in backpressure in the nozzle, and tends to make material push upward around the sides, and then underextrude right after the intersection point. This could be the cause of what you're seeing.</p>
<p>If so, there are several possible ways to improve the situation:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Use a non-self-intersecting infill pattern like gyroid.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Print the infill slower. The effect is lessened by slower motion.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Print hotter. I'm not sure why this works, but it does. It might help re-melt the intersection point when slamming through it, or it might just make flow more consistent and less susceptible to the pressure swing.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>If this isn't the issue, other things to check for:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>That flow % for infill hasn't been turned down in slicing settings.</p>
</li>
<li><p>That your infill speed times line width times layer height (in units if mm³/s) is within the flow capabilities of your hotend and extruder.</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
2023-05-21T07:08:24.087 | |prusaslicer|multi-material| | <p>I'm currently using Cura for one printer (Hellbot Magna SE, essentially an Ender clone) and PrusaSlicer for another (Artillery Hornet).</p>
<p>I first learned this method for multicolored prints with Cura on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_Mohd7JLzw" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CHEP's channel</a> since I have had awful accidents with manual filament changes in the past, given that my Hellbot printer doesn't understand the M600 command and I have to use M0 pauses instead. this way works great and gives me a lot of peace of mind since now I can leave the printer unattended for a bit knowing it will finish printing then turn the nozzle and bed off, home on all axes and just sit there idle until I come back and start the next print on top, this one sliced with the corresponding Z Offset value so as to not collide with the one currently sitting on the bed.</p>
<p>I would like to do the same on my Hornet, but I use PrusaSlicer with it since the builtin profile is so much better, and I can't figure out how to do it. I have located the Z Offset setting, but <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/how-to-lift-object-from-the-print-bed_245192" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the only way to be able to lift objects from the platter seems to be by making them "parts" of another one</a>, and in that case I lose the option to disable the "Printable" flag that lets me hide the different components of the object so I can slice them and export them as separate files.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Note:</strong> While typing this it just occurred to me maybe setting the
corresponding Z Offset for the object that goes on top of the one
already on the bed <em>without making it a part</em> but rather the only
thing on the platter might work? Perhaps this isn't necessary for
PrusaSlicer to generate the code that I need. I'll test this tomorrow
but anything that implies possible collisions will always make me a
bit nervous. I will update the question with the result of the test.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Thanks in advance!</p>
| 20979 | Trying to print separate models one on top of the other using PrusaSlicer | <p>I'm gonna answer myself since I tested my hypothesis today.
Turns out in PrusaSlicer you don't need to "elevate" the model from the build plate and make it sit on the other model in order to be able to print on top of it. Just the Z Offset option is enough.</p>
<p>Here's what I did:</p>
<ol>
<li>Load the first part that will sit at the bottom.</li>
<li>Right click it and Add Part(s). This will be just for reference.</li>
<li>Take note of the height of each part (this will be the Z Offset for the next print)</li>
<li>Remove all parts and import the files as separate models.</li>
<li>Now you can generate separate files for each of them. First one will of course have an offset of 0, next one will have an offset equal to the previous ones' heights, and so on.</li>
</ol>
<p>As an important note, <strong>only have your bed on for the first print, afterwards always leave it off as this will start to deform the print from below</strong>. I recommend you use glue stick or hairspray to help the adhesion instead.</p>
|
2023-05-29T02:57:57.827 | |extruder|stepper| | <p>I recently got a used Creator Pro printer, and I just did a few prints amounting to about 10 hours of total print time, with no issue. But suddenly, the extruder started jerking filament back and forth, not feeding. If I force the filament with my hand, it goes through the hot extruder easily, and when I do filament loading, this still happens. I disassembled the extruder to make sure the motor isn't stuck on anything, and even with nothing touching the shaft, it does this wiggling when I tell the printer to load the filament. I doubt the sequencing for the motor spontaneously changed after hours of printing. I pulled the cable and plugged it back in, same thing. The firmware is Sailfish if that matters. I'm beginning to suspect the stepper motor is toast, but I wanted to ask here first if anyone thinks it could be something else.</p>
| 20996 | Extruder motor jerking back and forth | <p>Plug the extruder cable into one of the other motors and send a filament feed signal.
If the problem manifests the same, then you can probably rule out the motor as the culprit. You could have a bad cable or a bad controller board. To rule out a bad cable you'd just swap out the cable from the board to the extruder.
However, if the problem doesn't recur, then the motor might be bad. It might also be mounted poorly. You may be able to remove it from it's mounting and test if the problem persists.</p>
|
2023-06-01T18:49:40.480 | |prusa-i3|octoprint|serial-connection| | <p>I am following the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tutorial of Prusa</a> for using Octoprint with my Prusa i3 MK3. I have a Raspbery Pi Zero and I'm using the built-in GPIO pins, not an USB connection.</p>
<ul>
<li>Wifi works. I can reach the Raspberry via HTTP and SSH</li>
<li>I have enabled [RPi Port] via the i3 menu</li>
</ul>
<p>But in the Octoprint website, there's no serial port to select. It just shows "AUTO" and after a while it displays an error message that there's no Serial port found.</p>
<p>Via SSH I can find quite some devices which look like Serial:</p>
<ul>
<li><code>/dev/serial1</code></li>
<li><code>/dev/tty#</code>, where # is a number</li>
<li><code>/dev/ttyAMA0</code></li>
<li><code>/dev/ttyprintk</code></li>
</ul>
<p>I haven't had any issues with Serial connection since 2019 and despite all warnings, the Pi Zero did a great job. However, after the last Octoprint update, Octoprint didn't come up any more, so I did a reinstall from scratch.</p>
<p>I'm using OctoPrint 1.9.0</p>
| 21009 | Octoprint does not detect Serial port of RPi zero | <p>Neither the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/octoprint-configuration-and-install_2182" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tutorial of Prusa</a> nor the <a href="https://octoprint.org/download/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Octoprint setup instructions</a> mention this. But it's common Raspberry Pi knowledge, for everyone how experiments with the RPi.</p>
<p>The Serial interface that works over GPIO needs to be activated via</p>
<pre><code>sudo raspi-config
</code></pre>
<p>In the menu, go to "Interface Options" (3), then "Serial Port" (I6). Answer "No" for the login shell and "Yes" for the Serial port hardware. After that, reboot your Raspberry when being asked.</p>
<p>The Octoprint web interface should then detect <code>/dev/ttyS0</code> and be able to connect.</p>
|
2023-06-03T16:18:02.293 | |slicing|z-axis|bltouch|calibration| | <p>When calibrating my printer and configuring my slicer there are many different values that can affect the final distance between the print bed and the nozzle for the first layer. I'm trying to figure out where I should be making different adjustments. I'm having some first-layer issues, and I'm trying to get my layer height configured correctly to make changing materials and print settings easier.</p>
<p>Intuitively it seems like I should be configuring the printer so that when Z = 0 the nozzle is just touching the bed and leaving the height of the first layer entirely up to the slicer. That way the slicer can accurately calculate the first layer height. But a lot of the instructions online imply that Z = 0 is calibrated slightly above the bed (the thickness of the paper). If I were setting zero on a milling machine I'd subtract the thickness of the feeler gauge to get a 'true zero' to the table.</p>
<p>Some of the Marlin calibration features also seem to assume that Z is configured somewhat high. For instance when leveling the bed manually or when editing a UBL mesh it homes the printer and then moves to each point to verify the bed height, but it doesn't seem to account for the thickness of the feeler gauge. This makes me think that the feeler gauge height is expected to be built into the probe Z-offset. I'm using a 0.2 mm metal gauge as it's more repeatable than paper. If I have my Z-offset set to 'true zero' I can work around this by homing the bed to my feeler gauge and then calibrating.</p>
<p>As far as I can tell the following values can affect the final Z height of the first layer:</p>
<ul>
<li>The Marlin probe Z-offset value. If this value is accurate then Z = 0 should have the nozzle just touch the bed. If this value is set to the probe/nozzle offset plus the feeler gauge height then when the slicer asks for 0.3 mm it will get 0.3 mm + gauge height.</li>
<li>If not using an ABL printer:
<ul>
<li>The gantry level</li>
<li>The Z limit switch position</li>
<li>The bed level screws</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>The UBL mesh values. Not only does the mesh conform to the shape of the bed, but I think that it also acts globally on the Z-offset. If I were to bias all of the values in the mesh by the same amount it should effectively have the same effect as adjusting the Z-offset. I think that this could happen when manually tuning a mesh if the Z-offset is incorrect. Tuning the mesh this way would 'hide' the incorrect Z-offset, but require that the error be replicated when the Z-offset needs to be reset (for instance after a nozzle change). This seems to imply that the UBL mesh value at the initial probe point (used when homing) should always be 0 to prevent confounding it with the Z-offset value.</li>
<li>The Marlin probe XY offset values seem like they could also have an effect on nozzle/bed distance since they will affect where the UBL mesh is sampled for a given nozzle position. I don't know if these values are used when generating the mesh or when reading it. I've measured these values using a dot on a piece of paper, but I'm worried I might have the sign wrong.</li>
<li>The slicer's initial layer height. Since the slicer 'knows' about this height it uses it to calculate the amount of filament to extrude to create a perfect line of the specified width and height. This setting will vary for different prints and materials.</li>
<li>The slicer initial layer offset value (<strong>Z Offset</strong> in Cura). This is where it seems to make the most sense to introduce any initial layer 'squish' since it is configurable per print (as opposed to the Marlin <strong>Z Offset</strong> which stays with the printer). I could also add the squish by adjusting the initial layer flow multiplier to extrude a bit more filament than calculated by the slicer.</li>
</ul>
<p>For reference, I have a Sovol SV01, with a BLTouch and Marlin 2.0.5.3. My pre-calibration process is as follows:</p>
<ol>
<li>Power up the motors and measure the height of each side of the gantry from the printer frame.</li>
<li>Turn one of the Z-axis lead screws until both sides sides of the gantry are the same height.</li>
<li>Home the printer.</li>
<li>Run the Marlin "level corners" wizard. I use a 0.2 mm steel feeler gauge, and go through the corners until they all have the same amount of friction (the centre of the bed is a bit loose now, so the center is slightly concave).</li>
<li>Home the printer.</li>
<li>Measure the distance to the bed using the feeler gauge.</li>
<li>Adjust the 'Z-offset' value to get a distance of 0.2 mm. This will mean that the surface of the bed is at Z = 0.</li>
<li>Go back to 5 until no adjustments are needed.</li>
<li>Heat up the bed and the hotend (not necessary yet, but can't hurt).</li>
<li>Use the Marlin assistant to generate a 'Cold Mesh' UBL mesh.</li>
<li>Save the mesh.</li>
</ol>
| 21012 | Should I calibrate Z-offset so that Z = 0 has the nozzle touching the bed? | <p><strong>No</strong>, you should not, unless you adapt your slicer settings.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7265">This answers</a> explains the Z-offset. If your nozzle is at true Z=0 when touching the bed, then you need to find out all the property's in your slicer that adjust for the paper thickness. E.g. first layer is slightly overextruded and lines are usually wider, with your nozzle at the true zero, these kind of aids need to be changed else you will get too much flow in the first layer, pressure will build up and this will not help you to get a perfect first layer. This may result in rippling, balling up of filament, etcetera.</p>
<p>Commonly used printing paper is about <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6604">0.1 mm</a>, this is pretty negligible on most prints you will print.</p>
<p>But, <strong>yes you can</strong>, could also answer your question, this may prove to give you additional work to get your prints printing.</p>
|
2023-06-04T18:20:38.660 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|pla|stringing|mriscoc| | <p>Being a newbie in 3D printing, I have some trouble with my prints. After removing wiggle room from the X axis and the bed, there are deformities even on simple prints. The first layer turns out okay-ish but there seems to be some stringing that makes the print deviate consisently when there is a turn. How could I improve?
My setup:</p>
<pre><code>Ender 3 V2 - stock printing bed, extruder/nozzles
Firmware: mriscoc
Auto bed leveling (BL touch) - Z offset -2.18mm
Slicer: Cura - 0.2mm layers, 20% infill
Material: PLA - 200C nozzle, 60C printing bed.
</code></pre>
<p>The Gcode of the XYZ cube:</p>
<pre><code>;FLAVOR:Marlin
;Layer height: 0.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 5.3.0
M140 S50
M105
M190 S50
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M420 S1 ; Use mesh level stored
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
</code></pre>
<p>Sample output (XYZ cube):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fIiw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fIiw.jpg" alt="X face" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rgg2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Rgg2.jpg" alt="Y face" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWxzk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lWxzk.jpg" alt="Z face" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LPvz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LPvz.jpg" alt="Side view" /></a></p>
| 21017 | How do I fix deformities when printing on my Ender 3 V2? | <p>Update: I identified the issue as a lack of tension in the X and Y timing belts. After tightening the belts, the prints are much smoother !</p>
|
2023-06-04T22:19:47.263 | |display| | <p>Is 3D printing progress (the one you check on the display of a 3D printer) linear or not?</p>
<p>By linear I mean that equal differences in percentual progress will take the same clock time.</p>
| 21019 | Is 3D printing progress linear? | <p>Short answer: <strong>Usually not.</strong></p>
<p>Longer answer: <strong>Depends on the printer.</strong></p>
<p>Many consumer grade 3D printers show progress by how many layers are printed in relation to how many layers in total. But some layers take a lot longer than other layers, so it's just an approximation, at best.</p>
<p>Some higher tier 3D printers calculate differently, and as a result the progress indicator is more precise.
For example, the current models of Bambu Lab printers are pretty good at showing precise progress on the display. I think most resin printers are fairly accurate as well.</p>
<p>I think that if we look back at this question in 5 years or so, the answer should probably be changed to: "Yes, usually", since printers get better and better each year.</p>
|
2023-06-08T00:56:23.220 | |hotend|filament-jam| | <p>I have PrintrBot Simple Metal and over the course of today's use, I managed to get a piece of filament stuck in the hotend, just below the extruder gear. There's not really much to grab at, and my tweezers aren't that strong. How should I go about getting the filament out of the hotend? If it matters, I'm using <a href="https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/gray-mh-build-series-pla-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/M-PL0-Q8ZD" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1.75mm MH Build Series PLA</a>.</p>
<p>Though I solved my problem, I would still like for members of the 3D community to share solutions that work for them.</p>
| 21032 | How do I remove filament from the hotend of a direct-drive printer? | <h2>Cold Pull</h2>
<p>The technic is nigh the same as for a bowden machine:</p>
<ul>
<li>Do <strong>NOT</strong> cut the filament!</li>
<li>First heat the hotend to your filament's print temperature or about 20 °C lower</li>
<li>Then pull at the filament, possibly using a pair of grooved tongues.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you want to get rid of residue, especially after printing a high-temperature material, you might want to purge the nozzle too.</p>
<h2>But the filament is short...</h2>
<p>If the filament is too short already, purging it is the solution:</p>
<ul>
<li>try to cut the filament to just after the extruder gear</li>
<li>Heat the hotend to printing temperature of the stuck filament</li>
<li>insert any other filament that has the same or lower melting temperature behind and (using pliers) make sure that it will line up with the filament path.</li>
<li>Push the stuck filament through.</li>
<li>Best perform a purge now.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Purging</h2>
<p>I mentioned above purging. Purging is just pushing <em>extra</em> filament through. As it melts and gets pushed out with extra force, it takes with it all the residue and old filament. You pretty much purge the old material from the system. It might be easier for you to use a different color, as then you can see when you have purged the previous filament fully.</p>
<p>If you still need to clean more or want to swap the nozzle, you can let the hotend cool down to about 20 °C below the printing temperature of your now-loaded filament and return to a cold pull.</p>
<p>I generally have good enough success by performing a cold pull and then purging some centimeters more after the filament is of even color.</p>
<h2>Nozzle geometry warning</h2>
<p>Core-Heating nozzles are very complex and doing a cold pull in them is very hard to impossible. It is best to not cold-pull and instead just purge forward if possible.</p>
|
2023-06-09T12:19:18.557 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|blender| | <p>I designed some line art figure in Blender using several Bezier Curves, converted them all to Meshes, joined them to one Mesh and converted it back to a Curve.
Then I extracted the curve and set a depth and at the end I saved it as a STL file.</p>
<p>Now in Cura (5.2.2.2) using the standard settings I have the following struggle:</p>
<p>When opening up the STL everything seems normal and as designed:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEVzf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Before slicing"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEVzf.png" alt="Before slicing" title="Before slicing" /></a></p>
<p>But after slicing some lines/walls are ignored:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSOll.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="After slicing"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSOll.png" alt="After slicing" title="After slicing" /></a></p>
<p>Judging by the preview visualization and time those inner structures disappear.</p>
<p>Do you know how to correct by tweaking the Cura settings?</p>
<p>I think the problem comes from the Blender Project due to the multiple converting and joining process but maybe I can save the current model instead of starting over.</p>
| 21037 | Missing walls in Cura after slicing | <p>As suspected the error came from the Blender project. I tried using only Bezier curves and after joining and extruding the exported STL file behaves as expected.</p>
|
2023-06-11T20:23:51.587 | |print-quality|underextrusion| | <p>Recently, I've been noticing what looks like under extrusion. My first thought was a clogged nozzle, but it only occurs in some places:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VvYB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VvYB.jpg" alt="(Photo of the issue)" /></a></p>
<p>My printer is a PrintrBot Simple Metal, using <a href="https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/gray-mh-build-series-pla-filament-175mm-1kg/sk/M-PL0-Q8ZD" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MH Build Series 1.75 mm PLA</a> and the model was sliced with Cura 5.1.0. What could be causing this, and how should I fix it?</p>
<p>Slicer settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>infill density 10 % (pattern: cubic)</li>
<li>layer height: 0.2 mm</li>
<li>print speed: 50 mm/s (travel: 150 mm/s)</li>
<li>print temp: 200 °C (bed: 0 °C)</li>
<li>retraction: enabled (Z-hop: disabled)</li>
<li>cooling: enabled (fan speed: 100 %)</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm not printing faster than usual, and I watched some of this print print, and there were no obvious issues like a clicking extruder. I find it strange that it occurred regularly along the edge of one piece, but the piece next to it was perfect. It seems to occur around two sharp corners. The other piece didn't have those sharp corners.</p>
<p>Another doubtful theory by me:</p>
<p>I've had some issues with a loose plug recently. Could this be causing a drop in temperature?</p>
| 21043 | Under-extrusion in Certain Locations | <p><strong>Solved! Finally...</strong></p>
<p>So after having this issue off and on, an extreme case appeared. It turns out that filament was resisting coming off the spool, and when the extruder and hotend (the Simple is a direct-drive) pulled away from the spool it created tension in the filament, effectively pulling it out of the hotend, though only just enough to cause this issue. In this specific case, it seems that the long edge before the side of the piece was pulling the filament.</p>
<p>Shoutout to @metacollin and @DragonDon for their answers. I'm still calibrating my machine, so they'll useful.</p>
|
2023-06-19T15:20:45.210 | |slicing|support-structures|support-material| | <p>I am new to 3D printing, so this is probably a simple one.
I am using Freecad to design and Bambu slicer for printing. The object (simple cable clip) basically consists of vertical walls with no relevant overhangs. However, for printing, I have stacked seven of them in a vertical tower separating all seven objects by a small gap.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NqdxA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Bambu slicer's preview of seven cable clips stacked on top of each other"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NqdxA.png" alt="Bambu slicer's preview of seven cable clips stacked on top of each other" title="Bambu slicer's preview of seven cable clips stacked on top of each other" /></a></p>
<p>When I slice this with supports enabled, I get a preview that somewhat looks like Devil's Tower. I tried to draw the support manually and even blocked support at the walls which allows me to draw exactly what I want, but this doesn't change anything. The slicer still throws material at it like crazy.</p>
<p>What I ideally want is a single vertical support/breaking layer separating the parts. I know, I could model this breaking layer in Freecad, but the curved nature of the upper side makes sketching and modeling this quite difficult.</p>
<p>So my question is, is there an easy way to do this in a slicer?</p>
| 21070 | Add minimal support or breaking layer in multi part | <p>The most easy solution is to edit the G-code file. In the G-code file you can see when the next stacked item starts to be printed. If there is no gap between the objects, the objects fuse together. If you insert G-code to raise the Z height by 0.1 - 0.2 mm and redefine the new Z to the old value prior to move you have created a weak/break layer similar to a support roof with a gap to the printed part.</p>
<p>So after the last layer of an object you insert:</p>
<pre><code>// E.g. last Z is 15 mm, layer height is 0.2 mm
G1 Z15.15 // Raise Z height by 0.15 mm
G92 Z15 // Define this the Z you left
// Continue printing next object
</code></pre>
|
2023-06-20T16:47:10.123 | |3d-models|scanning| | <p>All the scanners I have seen, are scanning objects that stand on a platform. What about something like a plastic part which doesn't stand on it's own? for example this <a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155528855558?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=155528855558&targetid=1817264050035&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007230&poi=&campaignid=19097525516&mkgroupid=147591788601&rlsatarget=pla-1817264050035&abcId=9303861&merchantid=431985279&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIluvt16TS_wIVVsDtCh0-dwZhEAQYAyABEgJnR_D_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">plastic piece</a> I broke on my Kärcher pressure washer</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/97eYq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/97eYq.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Do you just have to be skilled at modelling enough to create a model from scratch?</p>
| 21075 | 3D scanning parts that don't stand on their own | <p>At work we print holders for parts that don't standup themselves. This part you broke is probably not suitable for being printed yourself, this is most probably Nylon (or even worse, POM), when you print this yourself you will get into some challenges, like warping. If this has been broken, I doubt whether you find a suitable replacement material. Personally, I would buy this part, it is too difficult to scan and print yourself. And, if printed outside using a print service, it will be more expensive then buying a spare.</p>
|
2023-06-22T11:40:56.633 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>I’m fairly new to 3D printing but have managed about 10 parts successfully so far. On this print, there were some issues printing the raft, but by the final layer, it looked ok, so I let it continue. I was surprised to see that when trying to print the circular pattern, the filament seems to come unstuck from the raft and pull across.</p>
<p>Is this down to bed adhesion, or some post-processing setting? I’m running PLA at 50 mm/s. The bed temp is 50 °C and the nozzle temp is 210 °C.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIAu4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Partial 3D print showing the layers after the raft not adhering properly"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YIAu4.jpg" alt="Partial 3D print showing the layers after the raft not adhering properly" title="Partial 3D print showing the layers after the raft not adhering properly" /></a></p>
| 21084 | Why are the circular parts of this print not sticking to the raft properly | <p>Likely the extruder gear is slipping on the filament. The tension arm may be weak or broken. It's also possible that there's a partial clog.</p>
<p>Whenever you get curved paths not adhering in place but getting "pulled" straight across the curve, the forces pulling on the extruded material from the nozzle moving are exceeding those making it adhere to whatever it was supposed to adhere to below. This can especially happen on overhangs, where there's low contact with what's below, or in cases like over a raft or support where there's a gap and it's intended not to strongly adhere to anything below. However, if the right amount of material is being extruded, and if it's sufficiently melted before extrusion, there should be very little force trying to pull it out of place. This leads me to believe there's some extrusion problem going on.</p>
<p>If you can't find anything wrong, you can try just going slower on the first layer after the raft, or using a hotter nozzle temperature. In the big scheme of things, 50 mm/s is a really low print speed, but for someone new to 3D printing, using a stock Ender 3 that likely has lots of little problems you're going to have to find and fix, it's at least an "above average" speed for a first layer, and I'd try just reducing that.</p>
|
2023-06-22T22:02:36.757 | |marlin|bed-leveling|z-probe| | <p>I'll start off with some info in case it's needed, but my questions are a bit lower. I have an Ender 3 Pro with the 4.2.2 motherboard. Grabbed a Marlin firmware bin from Shiny Upgrades and seems to work great (built my own once and wasn't a fan). Got my Z-offset sorted out with a combination of stealing other people's numbers and testing a few prints out. Tried auto homing, but got weird numbers and instead resorted to that other approach. Printer seems work well now and my Z-offset is around -0.8 mm.</p>
<ul>
<li><em>Is the Z-offset I set in printer UI the distance between the sensor and the nozzle?</em><br>If so, does that mean I can now swap beds and expect the printer to automatically adjust for that <em>without</em> having to adjust the Z-offset again? Maybe assume I'm swapping between two perfectly flat beds and one is 5 mm thick and one is 10 mm thick, so we don't have to account for a different bed level mesh or something.</li>
<li><em>Is my bed leveling kind of useless?</em><br>I have 7x7 leveling, but the sensor is quite the distance away from the actual nozzle (mainly on the X-axis, but I assume also on the Y-axis), so any point it levels for won't actually be the point where the nozzle prints. I don't recall seeing any X or Y offsets in the printer UI either, just the Z offset. Why would the Z offset be an adjustable value in the UI, but not the other two? Barely anyone even mentions setting an X-offset and I'm not sure why.</li>
</ul>
| 21088 | How does my printer auto level based off the sensor I installed? | <blockquote>
<p><em>Is the Z-offset I set in printer UI the distance between the sensor and the nozzle?</em></p>
</blockquote>
<p>From <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5858/">this answer</a> on question "<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5857/z-offset-on-autoleveling-sensor-setup">Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup</a>" we read that:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>If you replace the build surface for a different surface the offset doesn't have to be changed.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><em>Is my bed leveling kind of useless?</em></p>
</blockquote>
<p>No, automatic bed leveling can be very useful if the build surface isn't as flat as a sheet of glass, it will map the surface and ensures the first layer is deposited at the correct distance.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I don't recall seeing any X or Y offsets in the printer UI</p>
</blockquote>
<p>These settings are in the firmware, that is where these are defined. Note that these shouldn't be in the UI, as this is a hardware change. Also note that Marlin is pretty well programmed and is aware of this sensor offset, and even will use these offsets to have the print head (nozzle to be exact) stay within the specified print area. This is a good thing, e.g. when the sensor offset is large, and it would probe to the edge of the bed, the head could potentially wreck one side of the printer. This is described in question "<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling">How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?</a>".</p>
|
2023-06-23T11:27:52.630 | |bltouch| | <p>I have the issue that <code>G29</code> does work as expected but then fails a couple of times at different measuring points after taht it succeeds again.</p>
<p>So I decided to enable debugging for leveling by <code>M111 S32</code>:</p>
<pre><code>Recv: <<< do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1500
Recv: current_position= X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499 : sync_plan_position
Recv: <<< Probe::probe_down_to_z X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499
Recv: Probe fail! - No trigger.
Recv: <<< Probe::run_z_probe X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499
Recv: current_position= X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499 : Probe::set_deployed
Recv: deploy=0 no_return=0
Recv: Raise Z to 5.0000
Recv: do_z_clearance(5.0000 [1.1499 to 7.1500], 0)
Recv: do_blocking_move_to_z(7.1500, 4.1667)
Recv: >>> do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z1.1499
Recv: > X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
[...]
Recv: <<< do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: >>> Probe::probe_specific_action X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: BLTouch STOW requested
Recv: BLTouch from 10 to 90
Recv: bltouch.stow_proc() end
Recv: <<< Probe::probe_specific_action X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: >>> do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: > X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: <<< do_blocking_move_to X291.1250 Y96.0000 Z7.1500
Recv: //action:notification Probing Failed
Recv: Error:Probing Failed
WARNING! Received an error from the printer's firmware, ignoring that as configured but you might want to investigate what happened here! Error: Probing Failed
</code></pre>
<p>Does <code>Probe fail! - No trigger.</code> mean the probe has a defect so that it sometimes does not trigger?</p>
| 21093 | G29 Sometimes fails - Defective probe? | <p>I've changed the probe to a CR-10 model. The one with the metal pin. No Issues anymore. I didn't even change the wire. So either the probe or the pin was bad. ♂️</p>
|
2023-06-23T23:08:06.603 | |creality-ender-3|bed|build-surface| | <p>I've had a magnetic sheet on my Ender 3 for some time. It came with a Creality 3D flexible bed. I've since got a couple of PEI coated steel plates and use it with that.</p>
<p>I noticed it had a lot of crud embedded in it, so since each of the coated steel beds came with a magnetic pad, I have a choice of pads to apply.</p>
<p>Since there seems little variation in the magnetism once the plate is fully over the pad. would I be better going for the lightest at around 120 g, or the heavier ones (at around 240 g) which do have a slightly stronger pull?</p>
<p>I'm intending to use a couple of ADXL345's to tune the resonance after I've reinstalled the bed.</p>
| 21095 | Is a lighter magnetic pad better? | <p>If you want/intend to print fast (high acceleration), adding mass to the moving bed is a big problem. It both decreases the resonant frequencies of the system (making it harder for input shaping to suppress them without introducing significant errors into the toolpath) and increases the force needed to accelerate the bed (making it easier to skip steps). So, all other things equal, you want to pick the lighter magnetic plate.</p>
<p>With that said, if you really want performance, the lightest plate is no plate. Myself and at least several other people I know doing high performance printing on bedslingers have dropped (or skipped adopting) the magnetic plates and gone to clip-on plates or no plates at all. I'm running my Ender 3 with "blue tape"/"painter's tape" directly on the aluminum bed (no separate buildplate) and others are using various surface treatments (variants on the old "ABS slurry", hairspray, etc. concepts) to print directly on aluminum. This saves a lot of mass, but can be less convenient for popping prints off.</p>
|
2023-07-01T21:14:28.613 | |resin|safety| | <p>I recently spilled waste water from my resin printing onto a fabric cooler. The water was in a container I was using to cure leftover resin from cleaning finished prints by leaving it in the sun for a while. So there was an unknown amount of uncured resin in it after I had left it out for a few hours.</p>
<p>Is it likely that the cooler is permanently contaminated or should I be able to wash it and use it again? It isn't a really expensive one but also not really something I wanted to replace yet.</p>
| 21115 | Water washable resin safety | <p>I ended up calling the cooler a loss. I don't know what that resin will do embedded in the fabric of the cooler and I don't really want to drink poison when I am out on the beach or develop some sort of sensitivity from it. Ended up getting a new cooler as a gift so it all evened out.</p>
|
2023-07-04T04:16:24.387 | |heated-bed|abs|heat-management|warping|chamber| | <p>1.Active chamber heating (fan forced convection +heating bed +PTC heater) vs 2.Passive chamber heating(natural convection+ heating bed)</p>
<p>In the book "3D Printing Failures_ 2020 Edition_ How to Diagnose and Repair ALL Desktop 3D Printing Issues" writen by Aranda, Sean, it is said less cooling rate could let polymer have more temperature and time to release stress. This is the reason why chamber heating is used. But</p>
<ol>
<li>In the design 1 chamber above bed is already >50℃ with 120℃ heating bed.</li>
<li>In another design "120℃ bed with PTC supplyment which is cycled by a fan and the chamber can be up to >60℃". It forms forced convection, so the printed part may be cooled quickly even though the chamber has up to 60℃ temperature(the temperature difference between printed layer and ambient changes slightly).</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqLH9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqLH9.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So why we use chamber heating with fan forced convection design other than natural convection deign?</p>
<ul>
<li>Printed material: ABS</li>
<li>Bed temperature: 120℃</li>
</ul>
| 21131 | Will active chamber heating with heating bed and PTC heater (forced convection by fan) be better than passive chamber heating with only bed? | <p>Having forced convection allows to flow air on top of the heater so that more heat will be pushed into the chamber. Also, it makes the chamber uniform.</p>
<p>If you are barely heating the chamber (50 °C) the bed can already do it, while forced will cool down the part more quickly. Forced convection has almost only downsides, no advantages.</p>
<p>If you are heating the chamber to higher temperatures like 70-120 °C or more, the printed part has no problem about being cooled too much, and at the same time the bed set at 120 °C will not be able to heat up the chamber that much (or you need 2 cm thermal insulation around the chamber). Forced in this case has no downsides and only advantages.</p>
|
2023-07-09T16:14:05.073 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|pom| | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7l1x4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7l1x4.png" alt="Red wheel does not touch aluminium beam" /></a><br>
<strong>Red wheel does not touch aluminium beam</strong></p>
<p>I was checking the POM wheels of my printer, since I have a minor banding issue with my prints.<br>
I noticed that the wheel marked in red never touches the beam no matter how tight the eccentric nut on the right green wheel is tightened.</p>
<p>Things I have already tried:</p>
<ol>
<li>Replacing all three POM wheels</li>
<li>Tightening eccentric nut on the right wheel</li>
<li>Check if the z-axis beams are square</li>
<li>Making sure the holes on the bracket and on the gantry are square/centered</li>
</ol>
<p>Any ideas on what the root cause the problem could be? I am thinking the easiest solution would be to add a second eccentric nut to the offending wheel?</p>
| 21164 | One of my Ender 3 gantry POM wheels never touches z-axis aluminium beam | <p>Your right (undriven) side Z carriage is out of square, and is deflecting the gantry.</p>
<p>Imagine the left side Z carriage wasn't attched to the gantry at all, just on its own. The only way one of the two wheels without the eccentric nut, on the outer side, could be loose, is if the wheel with the eccentric nut, on the inner side, were not tight.</p>
<p>So start by disassembling the system and attaching the gantry only on the driven-side carriage, i.e. in a cantilever configuration. Do this without the X carriage attached so gravity isn't fighting it, and ensure it's square to the frame and that the eccentric nut is tightened enough there's no play. You should be able to rotate any one of the wheels with manual force while holding another still, but if you don't hold one still, rotating any wheel by hand should move the carriage and cause all three wheels to turn.</p>
<p>It's possible that the bolts holding the gantry to the carriage don't have it aligned square; if it's off, you'll have to take it off the top to adjust. These bolts need to be <em>really tight</em> or they'll tend to self-loosen and throw everything out of wack again.</p>
<p>Once you have the driven-side carriage bolted to the gantry tightly square, it's time to do the undriven side. Start by adjusting the eccentric nut to get the carriage snug, and only then bolt it to the gantry.</p>
<p>Confirm that it moves all the way up and down the Z axis without binding. If the Z extrusions are not parallel or if either of them is bent, you'll have problems and you need to go back and fix that before connecting the undriven side to the gantry again.</p>
|
2023-07-14T13:56:27.610 | |prusaslicer| | <p>I would like to create a profile, in the Prusa Slicer software, that could be preset so that in the last layer the nozzle is at 210 °C of temperature so that the printer ensures that the inner and outer walls are well together and do not become loose in the layer higher. I have very thin 0.7 mm walls and I usually have problems with the walls opening every now and then...</p>
| 21177 | In the last layer, the nozzle should be at 210 °C of temperature configured in the Prusa Slicer profile | <p>In the printer settings custom G-code you could add a custom G-code there</p>
<pre><code>{if layer_num == (total_layer_count-1) } M104 S210 {endif}
</code></pre>
<p>But that does not sound right why not start with 210 °C in the first place? It is perfectly OK to print PLA at 210 °C.</p>
|
2023-07-25T05:05:03.123 | |marlin|bltouch|creality-cr-10|automatic-bed-leveling| | <p>I recently installed the CR-Touch onto my CR10-V3 printer. I updated my firmware to Marlin 2.1.2M and set my probe offsets and selected level bed which checked 81 points on the print bed and it said bed leveling was complete.</p>
<p>I tried printing something that I had already created G-code for from Prusa Slicer, and on the initial wipe and perimeter print the nozzle was way too high (maybe 10-15 mm off the print bed surface)</p>
<p>I searched for how to enable using the auto bed leveling mesh using Prusa slicer, and I found a couple of places mentioning adding <code>M420 S1</code> to the G-code to enable using the auto bed leveling mesh, but even after adding that, my print did the same thing and during the wipe and perimeter print it was way too high.</p>
<p>Below is the start G-code that I'm using in Prusa Slicer</p>
<pre><code>G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
G4 S30 ; allow partial nozzle warmup
G28 ; home all axis
M420 S1 ; Enable use auto bed leveling saved mesh
G1 Z50 F240
G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000
M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0
</code></pre>
<p>If I'm understanding the last part of that G-code, it should be 0.28 mm above the print bed when it does its nozzle wipe, but it's 10 mm or more off the bed when it does that.</p>
<p>I did some additional testing this morning, and the problem seems to be the z-values after auto homing. I have a z-probe offset entered of -2.122 mm that I got using the z-probe offset wizard in the Marlin firmware, and that offset visually seems reasonable for where the probe triggers vs the nozzle height.</p>
<p>After auto homing all axis, if I manually change the z-axis to be 0.28 mm, then the nozzle is still about 7 mm above the print bed which is where my prints are starting off.</p>
<p>If I manually deploy the touch sensor and lower the print head, the touch sensor engages with the print surface at around a z position of -5 mm, and then with the z-probe offset of -2.112 mm it's about 7 mm too high.</p>
<p>Where is this extra height coming from? I've checked and rechecked the z-probe offset, and like I said, the values seem reasonable, but I'm not sure where this extra height is coming from.</p>
| 21216 | Absolute Z values not 0 at print surface after auto homing with CR-Touch | <p>I have no idea what happened the first time I initialized everything, but I started over from the beginning and ran the <code>Initialize EEPROM</code> command from the UI, and then saved the settings, and then went to the probe offsets and reset my probe offsets to exactly what they were before, but now after auto homing the absolute Z values look accurate and if I manually move the Z axis to 0 it is right at that 0.1 mm height of a sheet of paper.</p>
<p>The first time I initialized the EEPROM I ran auto home immediately after and I was getting an error on the main page <code>ERR: too far</code> and maybe in the process of trying to fix that I messed something else up, but it appears that everything is working how it should now.</p>
|
2023-07-29T18:06:12.837 | |creality-ender-5| | <p>When shipped from the factory to retail the Ender 5 comes packaged in a series of layers using shaped foam.</p>
<p>In order to repackage an Ender 5 in its original box (for example, for transport or storage) it must be dismantled and placed back in this foam packaging in a specific order and arrangement.</p>
<p>What does this order and arrangement look like, with pictures if possible.</p>
<p>This is "how do I deconstruct" question, the opposite to "how do I build".</p>
| 21252 | What does an Ender 5 look like in its original foam packaging? | <p>Watch this in reverse:</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0f0kOz9zR0Q?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>The "unboxing" ends at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0f0kOz9zR0Q&t=165" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2:45</a></p>
<p>Screenshots in reverse order:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr7vC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr7vC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUFcm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUFcm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AquF5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AquF5.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bLdC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4bLdC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/10rl8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/10rl8.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wb8kw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wb8kw.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRnuk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRnuk.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8Ipq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8Ipq.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVD92.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVD92.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzAmg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzAmg.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/z07QG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/z07QG.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgT8e.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgT8e.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKc9s.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKc9s.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SbWpS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SbWpS.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWcli.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWcli.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNQNe.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNQNe.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaMhj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaMhj.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdAMB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdAMB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDfTz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zDfTz.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDEh9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDEh9.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIbIq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIbIq.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRTm0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRTm0.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2023-08-02T22:06:14.120 | |z-axis|nozzle|simplify3d| | <p>After replacing the nozzle on my Creatbot F430 printer, I auto-leveled the bed and initiated a test print - a simple square with a 2 mm thickness. However, I observed that the thickness of the printed model is inconsistent, varying between 1.5 mm and 1.7 mm. I'm wondering the Z-Offset is affecting this, or I shouldn't really worry about 0.3 mm / 0.5 mm difference.</p>
<p>Nozzle Size is 0.4 mm</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYktJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Printer Setting"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYktJ.jpg" alt="Printer Setting" title="Printer Setting" /></a></p>
| 21263 | The thickness of my model is not always accurate. How do I solve this? | <p>Yes the Z offset needs to be redone each time a nozzle is removed even if you re install the same size.</p>
<p>Another thing to verify is to ensure the slicer is actually set with a 0.4mm nozzle</p>
|
2023-08-05T13:44:47.947 | |troubleshooting|pla|nozzle| | <p><strong>Problem:</strong> The first layer on the bed was printed fine, but it seems the filament got stuck or something and wouldn't stick to the bed, but instead to the nozzle. Note, it also got behind the blue rubber part. This is the work of about half an hour of printing.</p>
<p><strong>Info:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Anycubic Kobra</li>
<li>stock nozzle</li>
<li>stock bed</li>
<li><a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0834W5L3L" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PLA filament</a></li>
<li>nozzle temp: 200 °C</li>
<li>bed temp: 60 °C</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Question:</strong> How would I go on about removing the filament around the nozzle?</p>
<p><strong>Attempt:</strong> I tried to cut it away, but it has already dried out, making it quite hard. I did some research, but I could only find ways to unclog the nozzle itself (given that the nozzle can be reached, which is not the case). My fear is, if I continue to try to break it off, I'll break the whole part. I could heat up the nozzle hoping for the filament to melt again, but that'll probably make it worse.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QgWPY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a blob of filament stuck around the nozzle"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QgWPY.jpg" alt="Photo of a blob of filament stuck around the nozzle" title="Photo of a blob of filament stuck around the nozzle" /></a></p>
| 21285 | How do I remove clogged filament around a nozzle | <p>You need heat to remove that. If you're hesitant to heat up the hotend, you can use a soldering iron or a butter knife heated over a lighter to start attacking the blob from the outside to get it down to a more managable size. A heat gun or even a hair dryer is also an option; the latter won't melt it, but may soften it enough to be pliable.</p>
<p>Once you get the bulk of the blob off and are able to remove the silicone sock, a brass wire brush is the tool to use to clean off the remainder. To do this, the hotend needs to be hot, and you need to avoid brushing around where the wires go in so you don't accidentally break the wire insulation and cause a short. If there's plastic stuck there at the base of the wires, a toothpick can be used to remove it while the hotend is hot.</p>
|
2023-08-13T15:25:58.830 | |creality-ender-3|print-fan| | <p>I am using an Ender 3 Pro that I bought near the end of March 2023, and I have not modified any of its parts. About an hour ago, I tried preheating the hotend (using the 'Preheat PLA End' setting) and heard a buzzing sound coming from the parts cooling fan.<br />
I tried cleaning the fan and made sure it was connected properly, which made the noise a bit quieter but didn't make it go away.</p>
<ul>
<li>What is causing this noise?</li>
<li>Can it be fixed without replacing the fan?</li>
<li>If so, how?</li>
</ul>
<p>I will keep trying to understand and fix the problem, and will add updates if I find more info.</p>
| 21315 | Ender 3 Pro: Parts cooling fan making strange noises | <blockquote>
<ul>
<li>What is causing this noise?</li>
<li>Can it be fixed without replacing the fan?</li>
<li>If so, how?</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>The sound was caused by a buildup of filament near the motherboard and in the motherboard fan. After getting rid of the strands, the part cooling fan has stopped making the buzzing noise.</p>
|
2023-08-14T13:23:58.597 | |pla|creality-cr-10|support-structures|prusaslicer| | <p>I am having trouble with my print here, specifically with the part laying on the green support:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cl58L.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Print preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cl58L.png" alt="Print preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer" title="Print preview of a 3D model in PrusaSlicer" /></a></p>
<p>It seems the edge running on the supports does not stick to it and it wants to curl upwards :</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSIXG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a printed model curling upwards on the buildplate"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSIXG.jpg" alt="Photo of a printed model curling upwards on the buildplate" title="Photo of a printed model curling upwards on the buildplate" /></a></p>
<p>I have reduced layer height to 0.1 mm and support Z distance to 0.05 mm. I am using the tight support setting in prusa slicer. The perimeter is printed at 35 mm/s and the temperatures are 200 °C and 73 °C for the bed to print PLA+.</p>
<p>Here is what I would like to get close to side by side with the current result. The good one is printed upside down and takes me 23h to print instead of 12h, so I would like to find a good fix for this ;)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8cyj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the same printed model with one upside down above the other"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8cyj.jpg" alt="Photo of the same printed model with one upside down above the other" title="Photo of the same printed model with one upside down above the other" /></a></p>
| 21316 | How to improve quality of edge over support | <p>This looks like inadequate cooling. If this is PLA, it's probably a matter of PLA this close to a hot bed being unable to cool enough not to still be soft - the heat from the bed will continually heat the part, and it doesn't take much heat to keep it soft. If you're using a bed temperature of 60°C (common recoommendation for PLA) this is hopelessly too hot for any small parts with overhangs to print close to the bed. Try reducing it or printing with a completely cold bed using a non-heat-based method for adhesion. Some good ones are a textured surface like painter's tape/"blue tape", especially roughed up with light sanding, or an adhesive aid like glue stick or hair spray.</p>
|
2023-08-18T18:08:48.160 | |electronics|temperature|thermistor|part-identification| | <p>A long time ago, I went through the experience of adding extra <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10891/weird-temperature-reading-using-thermistor-on-mks-gen-l-v1-0-aux-2-analog-pins">thermistors</a> to my 3D printer board. Ultimately, I did get it to work, but it resulted in extra wiring and was not as clean as I would like.</p>
<p>I was wondering if there are any ready-made 3D printer boards that support adding extra thermistors. I need 5 thermistors for a large 3D printer with a long heated bed. I need the thermistors to measure the temperature of an extruder, the chamber (in 1-2 spots), and 2-3 spots along the bed.</p>
<p>Since I am looking for a new 3D printer board anyway, are there any boards that support adding extra thermistors using a premade PCB or that come with specific JST connectors for up to 5 thermistors?</p>
| 21333 | Are there any 3D printer boards or expansions that support more than 3 thermistors? | <p>Yes. Generally, it will be the boards with lots of steppers (or rather stepstick sockets) which also support lots of heaters/thermistors. For example the BTT Octopus Pro has 4 hotend heater ports, heated bed terminals with dedicated bed power supply, and 5 thermistor ports TB/T0/T1/T2/T3. I suspect other 8-stepper boards are similar, though I haven't checked.</p>
<p>If you'll be using Klipper, though, there's no need for lots of ports on the same board. You can use cheap RAMPS boards or old Creality boards or whatever and connect as many as you like to the Klipper host for it to control in sync.</p>
|
2023-08-23T00:39:12.310 | |print-quality|pla|temperature|thermistor|monoprice-maker-select-plus| | <p>I've been having tremendously bad print quality lately and have been doing everything I can think of to fix it, none of it is helping. I tried printing a Temp Tower for the first time and since I was paying close attention to the temperature, I noticed that the printer is making some fairly wild temperature swings. My target temp is 200C and it's swinging between 192C and 207C back and forth, back and forth.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YF7c6JjbZfI?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>That is a video of test printing a cube. Took about 30 mins, video sped up 8x so you can watch the temp changes. It takes about 4 seconds in the video to swing from 192 to 207 so that was about 32 seconds in real time.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/d1GMR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/d1GMR.jpg" alt="temperature tower I printed when I noticed the unwanted temperature fluctuations" /></a></p>
<ul>
<li>Monoprice Maker Select Plus</li>
<li>1.75mm PLA (Hatchbox), bought a brand new box</li>
<li>Cura 5.2.1</li>
</ul>
<p>While trying to address the print quality, here are the things I've done before noticing the temperature fluctuations:</p>
<ul>
<li>replaced the nozzle</li>
<li>replaced the bowden tube</li>
<li>leveled the bed</li>
<li>calibrated esteps</li>
<li>tried brand new box of filament in case other filament absorbed moisture</li>
<li>gently tightened the thermistor screw just so that it was snug, but not overly tight</li>
</ul>
<p>Here's the thermistor connection on the hotend:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBEY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBEY.jpg" alt="thermistor connection on the hotend" /></a></p>
<p>Any suggestions are welcome.</p>
| 21350 | Bad print quality, Temperature Fluctuates about +/- 8 degrees | <p>This looks like a an extruder PID tunning issue.</p>
<p>In Marlin ( I assume this printer use Marlin) there is a auto-tune command for the temperature PID (M303) you can check this page: <a href="https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/pid-tuning-marlin-firmware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/pid-tuning-marlin-firmware</a></p>
<p>You mentioned that you changed the sensor you need to be careful and ensure it is exactly the same type as the stock or to know exactly what type of sensor it is and ensure it is adequately set in the marlin settings
a wrong sensor will give you an offset on the measured value but will not generate fluctuations by itself</p>
|
2023-08-24T00:18:41.143 | |3d-models|simplify3d| | <p>I produced a cube model (XYZ) using a printer to test its capabilities. Could someone offer guidance concerning the issues visible in the image?. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fw8FW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fw8FW.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Printer Used : Createbot F430
Slicer Used: Simplify 3D
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugTwL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ugTwL.jpg" alt="Slicer Settings " /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5WIVh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5WIVh.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 21358 | Help me diagnose these print problems? | <p>These artifacts look like oozing during retract or unretract due to an excessively slow retract/unretract speed, but might also be related to misconfigured or lack of pressure advance/linear advance.</p>
<p>Based on the settings info you added to the question, I think this is a very plausible explanation.</p>
<p>The "extra restart distance" setting is probably the primary culprit. This is an <strong>extremely misguided feature</strong> and, with the configured value, is spewing out enough plastic to fill a whole 1.25 mm worth of linear movement (at typical layer height and line width). All this is ending up in one place as a blob. Turn that off (set it to zero) and the problem will almost surely go away. There is never a legitimate reason to extrude a fixed excess amount of plastic after each unretract, and doing so will cause <strong>catastrophic nozzle collisions</strong> dependent on your model geometry.</p>
<p>Beyond that, 2.0 mm is a very long retract distance for a direct drive, which I believe this machine has, and 15 mm/s is very slow retraction. Those combined make it take at least 1/7 of a second dwelling in place during retract/unretract, which could also ooze material. 0.3-0.8 mm is the usual reasonable range of lengths for direct drive, and 30 mm/s (1800 mm/min) or so a reasonable speed. Play with these, but set it back up closer to where you had it if you get stringing or other problems.</p>
<p>The coasting setting of 2 mm is really, really dubious too. Coasting is a hack to make up for printers with extremely outdated/bad firmware by underextruding. This doesn't seem to be the <em>cause</em> of your bulges, but it could be making them more noticeable by contrast between slightly over-extruded (from oozing) and severely underextruded lines juxtaposed. Coasting should always be off.</p>
<p>Assuming your printer has it (I would hope so at that price, but sometimes pricy printers are running really old firmware), you should also make sure linear advance is enabled and calibrated. This solves the problem that coasting was trying to solve, but does it in a way that's actually accurate and still extrudes the correct total amount of material, just modulating pressure up and down as it does so that it flows in the right places.</p>
<p>TL;DR: Set extra restart distance to 0, coasting to off, and maybe speed up and reduce the length for your retractions.</p>
|
2023-08-24T17:59:56.193 | |z-axis|creality-ender-5|creality| | <p>I bought a Ender 5 S1, 3d printer (without limit switch version), I could be able to asemble it. Every axis works fine, however I cannot make the printing platform move upwards from the GUI.</p>
<p>I can make Y axis and X axis move without any problem.But Z axis moves only down, not up.</p>
<p>I tried to fix it by installing the latest firmware 1.0.7, but it didn't worked.What can I do to debug or fix?</p>
| 21364 | Creality Ender 5 S1, I can move z axis downwards but not upwards, Why? | <p>I found the problem, My wide CRTOUCH power cable was loose. I am a begginer so I didn't reliazed that loose CRtouch Power cable was the problem</p>
<p>When CRTouch is loose, you cannot move the Z axis probably because of security issues.</p>
|
2023-08-25T13:22:53.297 | |prusaslicer| | <p>I'm using an original Prusa MK3S and the PrusaSlicer as my slicing software. <br>
I want to print this net shape with only one layer and a thickness of 0.3mm.</p>
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OlICi.png" width="400">
<p>Intuitively, I would expect the slicer to trace the diagonal lines one after the other, e.g., from left to right, and then follow up with the perpendicular ones.</p>
<p>But when sliced with the PrusaSlicer, it traces the individual squares of the net in a seemingly random ordering.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vym11.png" width="200"> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq77E.png" width="200"> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IneC5.png" width="200"></p>
<p>I'm using all the default settings and a layer height of 0.3mm. Any ideas why the slicer does that?
Printing the squares instead of the lines is probably more prone to breaking when bent.</p>
| 21368 | Why does the PrusaSlicer trace random squares instead of the straight lines? | <p>Your model is not printable the way you "intuitively" think it is:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I would expect the slicer to trace the diagonal lines one after the other, e.g., from left to right, and then follow up with the perpendicular ones.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Once one direction of diagonal lines was finished, the other direction could only be drawn by "picking up the pen" over and over to draw each broken-up segment one at a time. Such a strategy has <strong>a lot</strong> of travel/retraction, and is thereby slow/inefficient and also higher risk for print errors. A pattern that snakes around in a continuous path, avoiding self-crossing as long as it can, is preferable.</p>
<p>However, the slicer doesn't even have that much high level reasoning at its disposal to choose between "these two options". It's just solving for a decent best effort at an optimization problem for covering all the perimeters which need to be printed, which is something akin to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travelling_salesman_problem" rel="nofollow noreferrer">travelling salesman problem</a> or similar graph theoretic problems which are <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NP-completeness" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NP complete</a> and thereby do not admit any efficient search for an optimal solution.</p>
<p>As an aside, you may notice that grid infill doesn't have this "problem". It prints the way you intuitively expected it to. This is because <strong>the slicer cheats</strong> and prints all of the crossing points twice. That often works out okay for infill, where it won't be visible, although lots of users, especially when printing at high speeds, run into problems with "self-intersecting infill patterns" where the sudden nozzle occlusion and resulting change in backpressure create broken extrusions and material sticking up past the layer height and colliding with subsequent layers. This kind of problem makes such a strategy a bad idea for the actual outer geometry of your print. But even if it weren't a bad idea, the slicer simply doesn't have a way of knowing "these features are ones the user wants me to print like infill". It's just solving the general problem of "print the perimeters for these polygonal regions", and in general, the solution doesn't look like an infill-specific hack.</p>
|
2023-08-27T09:55:44.870 | |print-quality|print-failure| | <p>When I give the print command from Pronterface this how it's printing. The Z value is 10.00, can't solve the issue even after first layer calibration being carried out.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qN2P0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qN2P0.jpg" alt="print after 1st layer calibration." /></a></p>
| 21372 | Z-axis Calibration Fault in Prusa i3 MK3S | <p>Reading your question, it seems that the Prusa i3 mk3 (which I also have) is set up for z=0 to be the proper height.</p>
<p>I do not use pronterface, so I don't know what special failures it may be causing. If the Prusa is calibrated for z=0 to be at bed level, and the printer is printing at z=10, and shows z=10 on the UI, then it is likely that it is being programmed for z=10. The question is, why?</p>
<p>Because the printer is calibrated, and is reporting that Z=10 at the point of failure, I do not suspect a mechanical problem with the printer.</p>
<p>I have sliced objects that were not properly touching the bed, which has caused this kind of offset. Perhaps you could check that the object appears to be flat on the bed before you slice. I had one case where a very thin spike stuck out of the mesh and lifted the object up (in the virtual slicer space) so that only the spike touched the bed, and since the spike was so small, it generated no extrusions.</p>
<p>There may also be calibration functions of pronterface to allow for adjustment to printers that are not properly calibrated. Since I don't use pronterface, I don't know it, but I would suggest reviewing all the deep and hidden menues for something to tweek.</p>
|
2023-08-31T06:42:58.887 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality| | <p>So I'm having a bit of a strange issue where I'm getting gaps between perimeter walls, but only on part of the print. Even more strangely, it doesn't happen with every print, though it will happen consistently on the same model if I print it more than once.</p>
<p>I know the go-to answer for an issue like this is <code>"You're under-extruding. Fix your e-steps or increase your extrusion multiplier"</code>, however I'm not sure that's the only issue at play here. I did try increasing my extrusion multiplier (tried both 1.05 and 1.10), and while the issue did improve, it didn't fully solve it. The print shown below was printed with an extrusion multiplier of 1.00.</p>
<p>Also worth noting is that there is a bulge in the side of the print toward the bottom, but I'm not sure if it's related to the perimeter wall gaps issue. I have no idea what would cause that.</p>
<hr />
<h2>Basic Info</h2>
<p>Printer: Ender 3 Pro<br />
Filament: Hatchbox PLA ("gray blue")<br />
Slicer Software: Slic3r</p>
<hr />
<h2>Slicer Settings</h2>
<blockquote>
<p>Note: I am only adding the settings I believe are relevant to the question. If you would like to see a setting not shown here, please let me know and I'll add it.</p>
</blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Print temperature: 200 °C</li>
<li>Bed temperature: 50 °C</li>
<li>Installed nozzle is 0.6 mm.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFhg2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFhg2.png" alt="Print speed settings" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yj3xg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yj3xg.png" alt="Print layer settings" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlZSM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TlZSM.png" alt="Printer extruder settings" /></a></p>
<hr />
<h2>Print Images</h2>
<p>This first picture is to show the orientation of the print on the print bed:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNB1C.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNB1C.jpg" alt="Print orientation" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBnv5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBnv5.jpg" alt="Print closeup" /></a></p>
| 21382 | Gaps between perimeter walls on only part of the print | <p>You are using a larger than "standard 0.4 mm" nozzle. Large diameter nozzles cause flow volume to increase when the extruder etrusion speed is kept the same as for the standard nozzle which can cause extruding problems like underextruding.</p>
<p>The nozzle diameter increase appears marginal (as in "it is just an extra 0.2 mm in diameter", but actaully the nozzle increases 50 % in diameter), but has significant effects on the volume flow of the extrusion.</p>
<p>As seen from the table below, when increasing the nozzle diameter for the same printing speed, the volume flow increases from 1.26 mm³/s to 4.24 mm³/s which is a 337.5 % increase of the flow for the selected layer height (0.3 mm).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVxfB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVxfB.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>This increased flow must be created by your extruder/nozzle assembly and might fall out of the range it can produce for the current setting. Generally this <strong>requires you</strong> to <strong>increase the printing temperature</strong> or <strong>decrease the printing speed</strong>.</p>
|
2023-09-01T15:11:46.800 | |x-axis| | <p>Speaking about any printer, in a general sense.<br />
If I load up the X carriage with two hotends and two stepper motors in a direct-drive-way... Then surely the force applied by the x stepper motor will not translate to the intended distance of the carriage.</p>
<p>What I am getting to is: How do you ensure changing carriage weight does not change travel distance?</p>
<p>Where would you change something? Do you start at software-level, like there being a variable and an algorithm which you feed the weight to, or do you change the stepper motor, and so on?</p>
| 21387 | How much weight can the x motor support? | <p>Load does not change the distance a stepper travels unless it misses steps. That's why it's called a stepper and not a normal open-loop motor - it moves in discrete steps that are completed in their entirety or not at all.</p>
<p>If the motor can't move (actually: accelerate) the load you've given it, no amount of software-level stuff will change that. Giving it more current might. But generally, unless you've built an extremely rigid machine for extremely high usable acceleration/speed, these motors have more power than they can use without going way beyond the point where your print quality becomes unacceptable. For example the X motor on a stock Ender 3 can accelerate the stock carriage at nearly 100000 mm/s² if you really want it to (with input shaping; without it, the resonances will give you drastically increased reaction forces that make it skip steps much sooner, maybe at 6000-10000 mm/s²).</p>
<p>A more massive toolhead will be harder to accelerate, but the way you solve this is by using lower acceleration, or putting on a more powerful X motor. However, unless you're also doing serious vibration-reduction modifications to go with the increased mass, you won't even want to have more acceleration. The ringing will be bad.</p>
|
2023-09-05T09:10:05.610 | |3d-models|slicing|superslicer| | <p>I just want to print this <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26345" rel="nofollow noreferrer">shower curtain ring</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmAH7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmAH7.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>For some reason SuperSlicer doens't like the circles and after slicing the model looks like this in preview.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSu8x.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSu8x.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>What is the issue with the slicer? Is there any setting that I might have and ruin the model?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
| 21398 | SuperSlicer model malfunction? | <p>At the moment I didn't find the exactly what option from config did this but after reimporting the preset everything is back to normal(possible something got corrupted in the preset or the app, I don't know for sure).
I will still research to see what caused the issue for feature.
Thanks all</p>
|
2023-09-05T21:32:31.437 | |z-probe|automatic-bed-leveling| | <p>I should mention that this is my experience with Marlin. I can adjust the Z offset all I want in the UI, but not the X/Y offset. If you reinstall the probe, I've heard you may need to adjust the Z offset (makes sense, you might not mount in the exact same way). I assume X/Y offsets get affected as well, so it doesn't make much sense to me that you'd have to rebuild the firmware to adjust those values. Maybe they're less sensitive to change? Anyways, not sure what makes them special enough to exclude from the UI.</p>
<p>My printer seems to work okay using a prebuilt firmware, though it could just as easily be pointlessly leveling 50 mm off of the nozzle for all I know.</p>
| 21400 | Why is the Z probe offset easily adjustable in the printer UI, but not the X/Y probe offset? | <ol>
<li><p>Usually you install the sensor once and keep it unchanged for years. Nozzle, though, is an element people, depending on printer usage, replace semi-frequently and the Z offset will change with different nozzles, different tightness, etc.</p>
</li>
<li><p>XY probe offset has very little importance - your bed level changes very little over distances of order of 1 cm, so 1 cm of error in XY probe offset is negligible. Meanwhile, even 0.05 mm Z offset difference impacts first-layer adhesion significantly.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>On a separate note, you don't need to rebuild the firmware to change the probe offset. You just need an interface (USB cable) and terminal (Pronterface) that allows you to communicate with the printer using G-code. First issue <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M501.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M501</code></a> to load the configuration from EEPROM, then <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M851</code></a> with the right X, Y values to set the XY offset, then <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M500</code></a> to save the changes to the config to EEPROM. No firmware update is needed.</p>
|
2023-09-11T04:42:58.493 | |bed-leveling|fdm| | <p>I want to operate a 3D printer on a ship. This brings up some issues. I want to estimate how likely it is to get usable results under conditions on a moving vessel.</p>
<p>First, it is impossible to level the platform and keep it balanced on which I want to install the printer. Any ballasting operation will tilt the plane even when berthed. This, of course, rules out several printing technologies, such as stereolithography, laser sinter printing, etc., which rely on gravity to keep the materials in a fixed position.
In my opinion, the only technology that is more or less tolerant of slight inclinations of the printer bed is FDM.</p>
<p>However, a ship is also moving. Even when berthed, it will respond to waves and wind. I do not intend to use a printer in rough sea listing to 10° or more. However, under rather calm conditions (2 m wave height), we reach +/- 2° list and +/- 1° pitch easily at turn rates of 50 mrad/s. Linear accelerations are +/- 0.1 m/s<sup>2</sup> (X and Y) and +/- 0.4 m/s<sup>2</sup> (Z).</p>
<p>I'm aware that an FDM printer will be affected by acceleration and position. Position changes will alter the vector of gravity pulling on the printer's mechanics, and acceleration will superimpose another force.
Of course, an error will be introduced. How big that error is will depend primarily on the stiffness of the mechanics and slackness of bearings and support.</p>
<p>Has anybody had experience with a moving coordinate system (most likely on board any vehicle) while printing with an FDM printer?
What problems do I expect when using a printer with actors in the most common cartesian coordinate system (X, Y, Z) on a ship?</p>
| 21416 | What problems to expect when operating a 3D printer on a ship? | <p>While your conceptions of "leveling" might apply to SLA or SLS, they are misconceptions with respect to FDM. "Leveling" the bed in FDM <strong>is not about leveling</strong> but about squaring it with respect to the rest of the motion system. There is no need for it to be "level" with respect to gravity. FDM printers operate leaning diagonally or hanging sideways off of walls (typical in some print farm configurations with auto ejection), upside down (e.g. the Positron), or in any other configuration you like. There are even printers setup to be carried as backpacks, printing while the wearer is in motion. Being on a ship, with extremely slow changes in orientation from the movement of water and the vessel, is <strong>completely irrelevant to FDM</strong>.</p>
<p>If you want some numbers, the accelerations you cited, 100 mm/s² in X/Y and 400 mm/s² in Z, are at least an order of magnitude below what a decent FDM printer experiences constantly as part of printing. Nowadays, good printers print at 5000-15000 mm/s² nominal acceleration, and experience additional forces from pseudo-instantaneous changes of velocity at the boundaries between linearizes segments comparable to another 2000+ mm/s².</p>
|
2023-09-12T12:00:40.737 | |sla|uv-printer|anycubic-photon| | <p>I am completely new to 3D printing and want to start with SLA printing.
I found the Anycubic Photon Mono 2 printer, but on the <a href="https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-mono-x2-sla-3d-printer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ordering page</a>, there are options for "Airpure" and "Wash & Cure" machines.</p>
<p>I do not know what these are, nor if they are needed for SLA printing.
Can someone explain the function of these items, and if they are needed for SLA?</p>
| 21425 | Equipment for starting with SLA printing | <p>Airpure can be replaced with a good fan and duct that sucks fumes out from the printer and vents them outdoors away from any living creatures. Not practical in many situations, but can be much cheaper if your situation allows.</p>
<p>I've seen a hobbyist making excellent prints where his "Wash & Cure" were a big jar with a lid, filled with isopropanol (to be shaken vigorously with the print inside) and a UV flashlight (to shine at the print from all directions).</p>
<p>What you really shouldn't skimp on is a good quality rebreather and eye protection.</p>
|
2023-09-13T23:54:04.470 | |print-material|petg|print-strength| | <p>I have a 3D object that I print with 0.6 mm nozzle and white PETG. At the moment I can't print the layers in another direction since I use 3D printed threads. The object is a de-seeder bit for the sorrel fruit. <strong>Some of the teeth break off when using it</strong> (see red arrow showing the missing tooth that breaks off when used below).</p>
<p>If you want to see how it's used, I have provided an <a href="https://v.etsystatic.com/video/upload/ac_none,du_15,q_auto:good/sm_len_sorrel_extract_seed_tool_f8g8xk.mp4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">animation/video</a> of it.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/poJuN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of various 3D printed models of de-seeders of various heights with an inset photo of sorrel fruit"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/poJuN.png" alt="Photo of various 3D printed models of de-seeders of various heights with an inset photo of sorrel fruit" title="Photo of various 3D printed models of de-seeders of various heights with an inset photo of sorrel fruit" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX66N.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Upclose photo of the 'bit' end of the de-seeder with an arrow showing where a tooth is missing"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX66N.png" alt="Upclose photo of the 'bit' end of the de-seeder with an arrow showing where a tooth is missing" title="Upclose photo of the 'bit' end of the de-seeder with an arrow showing where a tooth is missing" /></a></p>
<p>I was wondering if there was a way to increase the strength of the teeth on the bits from breaking. I was thinking of using some type of nail hardener but was wondering if that would work or if I should try and use something else.</p>
<p>I'm also willing to try a different 3D material but it needs to be able to withstand summer heat in Florida in a garage which gets to be 97 °F or 36.11 °C and be printed with an E3D Revo 6 nozzle (which is like a hardened steel nozzle). PLA will just melt/turn rubbery.</p>
| 21432 | How to harden / strengthen the teeth of a 3D print | <h2>Alter geometry</h2>
<p>You experienced one of several factors of print strength:</p>
<ul>
<li>the layer-layer boundary is always weakest</li>
</ul>
<p>So, we need to make sure to strengthen that as much as possible. Let's start with the shape as it is:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTbXg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTbXg.png" alt="Teeth geometry" /></a></p>
<p>Now, how can we increase the strength? Layer-layer strength is linear to area, so can reduce the number of teeth. Next, thicken the walls - two is already more than twice as strong while 4 to 5 is hefty strong.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjM6L.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjM6L.png" alt="reduced geometry, thicker walls" /></a></p>
|
2023-09-14T14:33:06.890 | |bltouch|ender3| | <p>My Ender 3 v2 with a CR Touch/BLTouch installed is only moving down, but not up!
The display shows <code>P Endstop</code> when I try to move below around halfway up the gantry. What's going on, and how do I fix this?</p>
| 21437 | Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch/BLTouch moving down but not up | <p>Your CR Touch/BLTouch is not connected properly. Check the cable that runs from the mainboard to the probe on both ends. It may be slightly loose, so make sure to push both ends of the cable all the way in.</p>
|
2023-09-17T05:55:30.393 | |dimensional-accuracy|elegoo-neptune-4-pro| | <p>I'm using the new Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro printer. I have the issue with both Cura and PrusaSlicer alike (I'm a Cura user).</p>
<p>The issue is simple, instead of printing a perfect circle, the final print will have a diameter range of around 0.3 mm. For example, if I print a 15 mm diameter cylinder, the longest diameter will be 15 mm but the shortest will be 14.7 mm.</p>
<p>I measured these with my caliper and I simply turned the cylinder around in the calipers; the cylinder will push up against the calipers as it reaches the thickest part of the cylinder and then come down as it goes to the thinner part.</p>
<p>It's not visible to the eye; it looks like a very nice and perfectly round cylinder. But I can feel it with the calipers. The height is dead on 25 mm as designed.</p>
<p>However, I don't get this result from the holes inside that same print. The holes are perfect circles and measure the same diameter roughly no matter what angle I measure them (at least I believe so, measuring the holes can be a bit tougher).</p>
<p>Calipers are accurate and go to two decimal places for mm.</p>
<p>I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Tightening up the belts (<strong>a lot</strong> - caused the deviation to go from 14.7-15 mm to 14.53-14.8 mm, still roughly a 0.2-0.3 mm difference)</li>
<li>Bed leveling</li>
<li>Vase Mode</li>
<li>Arc Welder (even though it technically shouldn't do anything)</li>
<li>Axes calibration</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<p>I remeasured and found that the thickest part of every cylinder is not directly on the Y-axis, instead, it's diagonal. The bottom right and top left of the cylinder is the thickest portion while every other angle is roughly the same.</p>
<p>I found the same was true for the cube I made. Measuring from the bottom right to the top left resulted in 26 mm, but the bottom left to top right resulted in 25.67 mm.</p>
<p>Calibrated the the Y-axis (the only one that was off), issue persists. Again, this 0.3 mm deviation exists in the cubes printed as well, and always diagonally. Bottom Right to Top Left is always about 0.3 mm larger than Bottom Left to Top Right. Looked at an old calibration cube I made with my Ender 3V2 previously and the same measurements were only off by about 0.03 mm.</p>
<p>This is very strange, I think I may simply return this printer for a replacement.. I have no idea where to begin investigating this issue.</p>
<hr />
<p>I took some measurements. I found that the right and left sides of the printer (which are separate pieces of aluminum) were roughly 0.2-0.3mm in difference from their distance to the aluminum center piece.</p>
<p>Now, without taking the entire printer apart, I can't say for certain that this measurement even matters, its possible that things aren't attached the way they seem from the outside.</p>
<p>However, the measurement perfectly aligns with the error margin on the prints. It also correlates to the X/Y axis misalignment, as the measurement indicates the <s>bed</s> X-Axis is slightly tiled up on the right side by 0.2-0.3 mm. Had it indicated it was tilted up on the left side, the print errors wouldn't have made sense as the diameter would have increased/decreased on the wrong diagonals.</p>
<hr />
<p>They agreed to a replacement after I sent pictures of the inconsistent diameter and measurements on the printer itself. I will update on if the issue is gone on the new printer once I have it.</p>
| 21448 | Cylinders have an inconsistent diameter | <p>It's all but confirmed that the printer was defective. I got a new printer and loaded up the sample G-code it comes with, but the bed's belt snapped 10 minutes into the print (it was only finger-tight). This makes two Neptune 4 Pro printers in a row I've received with defects.</p>
<p>I can only imagine that their quality control is terrible or I have terrible luck. They're also not replying to my emails for the next week due to a week-long holiday. This is an entire month wasted on defective printers.</p>
<p>After some shenanigans, I got a new belt on it. The belt didn't snap as I thought, instead, the metal that was crimped on it failed to hold the belt and it slipped out. This was when I noticed that the Z-axis movement was very noisy. To my surprise, I find that the lead screws were entirely unlubricated.</p>
<p>I printed new cylinders/cubes. <s>The measurements are inconclusive, which probably means the machine is fine.</s> On a 15 mm cylinder I found nearly a 0.2 mm variance, diagonally. This time, the bottom left to the top right (opposite of the last printer). A 30 mm cylinder showed a definite 0.4 mm variance on the same diagonal.</p>
<p>I tried readjusting the X-axis, but nothing changed. I pulled out a cylinder that my old Ender 3v2 printed (25 mm diameter), the variance was <0.1 mm, a perfect circle (ignoring the Z-seam).</p>
<p>This printer has not been worth the time spent on it, let alone the hassle. What a shame. The printer is fast and has beautiful quality prints otherwise. But it's worthless if they can't properly align the axes at the factory.</p>
|
2023-09-17T22:26:05.243 | |filament|creality-ender-6| | <p>In order to save some money on a project, I'm considering using 3 kg spools on my Ender 6.
However, I never attempted this before, and could not find a firm stance on the web.</p>
<p><strong>I know that it is possible to build a filament hanger/holder separately, but is it necessary on the Ender 6?</strong></p>
<p>For reference, the spool hanger/holder on my Ender 6 extends <strong>9 cm</strong> outwards of the printer.</p>
<p>The filament loaded in the printer (see photo) is a 1 kg white PLA. The dimensions of the filament drawing are for the 3 kg filament to be used.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W91hA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W91hA.jpg" alt="Dimension of Filament Spool" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Oys1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Oys1.jpg" alt="Side View of Ender 6, with dimensions, loaded with a 1kg white PLA spool" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJPSu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJPSu.jpg" alt="Internal Volume of the Printer, showing the spool hanger (black)" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEGP6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEGP6.jpg" alt="Close-up of the spool hanger, from inside" /></a></p>
| 21450 | Can I use 3 kg filament spools in an Ender 6 3D printer? | <p>While editing this question and analyzing the input the community provided, I've concluded that it is not possible to use a 3 kg filament spool directly on the Ender 6.</p>
<p>The actual answer depends on the filament spool dimensions you are going to work with.</p>
<p>For one thing, the spool hanger has a length of only 9 cm, while the filament spool has a width of 10.2 cm. I don't think it is a good idea to leave the spool hanging loose.</p>
<p>Secondly, the filament spool would hit the filament shortage sensor.</p>
|
2023-09-28T13:05:07.923 | |creality-ender-3|adhesion|automatic-bed-leveling| | <p>I have been printing on and off for years. Generally, I have had no issues until recently. Upon thinking back I don't think I used the Z-offset at any point and only manually leveled my Ender 3 S1 Pro.</p>
<p>I'm not sure if it's material or me, or both.</p>
<p>I have to learn this. I bought a new, expensive printer which is ABL only. No knobs, only Z baby-stepping in software. The card reader in my S1 broke so I bought a new board and discovered I needed to do this process again. Since I purchased a Sonic Pad, I changed over to Klipper and printed TPU for 2 weeks fine.</p>
<p>I bought a spool of Overture PLA, it's been a disaster. Before trying to dial this in last night the spool had been drying at 45 °C for 12 hours. Doesn't seem to print any differently.</p>
<p>Instead of the config steps, after manually leveling and getting the mesh, I made a one-layer print of concentric squares with a solid 1" box in the center. I'm baby stepping trying to find the sweet spot and think I do. I begin printing my model, 5 copies, layer 1: 1 - doesn't stick; 2 - sticks; 3 - sticks; 4 - sticks. I stop and clean the bed with IPA. Copy 1 - sticks; 2 + 3 - doesn't stick. Stop printing, manually level, and find no resistance with paper. Re-level manually only, print, skirt doesn't lay down right.</p>
<p>Tried the Creality "BuildTak" bed first, and worse.</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro - Sonic Pad (Klipper)</li>
<li>Nozzle: 0.5 mm Hardened Steel @ 215 °C</li>
<li>Bed: 60 °C PEI and "BuildTak"</li>
<li>Layer Height/Width: 0.3 mm 0.5 mm</li>
<li>Filament: Overture PLA Highlight Yellow</li>
<li>Speed: 25 mm/s</li>
</ul>
<p>What's the process? 1) Manual 2) Probe 3) Mesh? Does the order of 2 and 3 matter?</p>
<p>Mesh and manual are easy enough. I won't be at my printer until 7 pm Central be eager to read any advice during the day. I have Googled this also; obviously, I missed something.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUpIJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a series of models on the buildplate with only the second, third and fourth sets printing reliably"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUpIJ.jpg" alt="Photo of a series of models on the buildplate with only the second, third and fourth sets printing reliably" title="Photo of a series of models on the buildplate with only the second, third and fourth sets printing reliably" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E466k.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of only the first set in a series of printed models printed reliably"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E466k.jpg" alt="Photo of only the first set in a series of printed models printed reliably" title="Photo of only the first set in a series of printed models printed reliably" /></a></p>
| 21478 | First layer disaster: auto-leveling the bed. Need guidance | <p>I'm not claiming this is the definitive answer but I made a successful print with these changes.</p>
<p>There were several things I did that may have helped but I don't think solved the problem. I eliminated the elephant's foot compensation. I brought up the flow ratio to 1.01. Even though I had indicated no cooling on the first layer, I unchecked the box that indicated fan <strong>Always on</strong>.</p>
<p>The real solution I believe, increasing the nozzle temperature to 230 °C and bed temperature to 70 °C for the first layer and afterward dialing it back to 210 °C and 60 °C respectively.</p>
<p>I've had rolls of PLA for a long time. Perhaps the formulation has changed over time but I didn't have to go through such steps before, nor print so hot on layer one.</p>
|
2023-10-09T06:02:58.893 | |prusa-i3| | <p>I think my heat bed thermistor is broken (infinite resistance measured) on my Prusa MK2, so I bought a new one, and I'd like to know which connector I shall use. Where can I find the references of this connector, please ?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnvvJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnvvJ.jpg" alt="Picture of the connector" /></a>
Regards,</p>
| 21494 | Prusa i3 MK2 thermistor connector reference | <p>Those are JST SYP 2 pins female.</p>
|
2023-10-10T17:58:08.657 | |heated-bed| | <p>I just received a Fusion3 EDGE printer and tried printing ABS with a 0.4 mm extruder at 260 °C and bed at 115 °C (the temperatures set by the demo print). The bed started heading on the first print, then stopped heating after a few layers and hasn't heated since after repeated tries. Does anyone know if the fault state is causing this or if a failed heater is causing the fault state?</p>
<p>I've been going through the document <a href="https://www.fusion3design.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/EDGE-TROUBLESHOOTING-Heater-Faults-6.26.23.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fusion3 EGDE-Troubleshooting: Heater Faults</a>.</p>
<p>Reset the heater fault and get the heater is heating too slowly.</p>
<p>I'm waiting for tech support's response before moving this to an answer, but this is the result so far.</p>
<p>I measured the voltages on the SRDD100 relay. When the bed heater was turned on 24 V was across the input and the output passed 24 V to the heater (relay on). When the bed heater changed to the fault condition, the input had 0 V and the output did not pass the 24 V to the heater (relay off). Turning the power off on the 3D printer, unplugging the bed heater, and measuring the resistance of the bed heater showed an open circuit.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mt5dx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Reset Heater Fault'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mt5dx.jpg" alt="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Reset Heater Fault'" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Reset Heater Fault'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kpfH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Heter Fault 'Error; M25: Cannot pause print, because no file is being printed!'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kpfH.jpg" alt="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Heter Fault 'Error; M25: Cannot pause print, because no file is being printed!'" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Heter Fault 'Error; M25: Cannot pause print, because no file is being printed!'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Udcpl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Udcpl.jpg" alt="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfieu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Bed Heater Fault! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfieu.jpg" alt="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Bed Heater Fault! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: Bed Heater Fault! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyLGv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: First Run Error! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyLGv.jpg" alt="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: First Run Error! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: First Run Error! 'Error; M140: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EK6AZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EK6AZ.jpg" alt="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" title="Photo of the interface screen of a Fusion 3 Edge printer showing an error: 'Error; M190: Can't turn heater 0 on while in fault state'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DUJk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the build plate showing a 3D model being printed"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DUJk.jpg" alt="Photo of the build plate showing a 3D model being printed" title="Photo of the build plate showing a 3D model being printed" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CSwZT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the build plate where a 3D model has become detached"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CSwZT.jpg" alt="Photo of the build plate where a 3D model has become detached" title="Photo of the build plate where a 3D model has become detached" /></a></p>
| 21499 | Heater on bed stopped working on Fusion3 EDGE printer | <p>I measured the voltages on the SRDD100 relay. When the bed heater was turned on 24 V was across the input and the output passed 24 V to the heater (relay on). When the bed heater changed to the fault condition, the input had 0 V and the output did not pass the 24 V to the heater (relay off). Turning the power off on the 3D printer, unplugging the bed heater, and measuring the resistance of the bed heater showed an open circuit. <strong>The OEM also concluded that the bed heating element failed and is shipping a replacement</strong>.</p>
<p>OEM comment:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>every machine that is built runs through at least 12 hours of printing high temperature materials before it is allowed to ship. Having it basically show up not functioning is. . really weird.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>My response:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>This looks like it was on the tail of infant mortality for the heater exceeding the burnin time or a burnin escape. It only lasted a few minutes into a print with bed at 110C. Otherwise, it would be a defect caused in the process between burnin and arriving here.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The packaging showed no sign of mishandling and nothing on the unit showed signs of mishandling. There was no sign of damage to the heater. <strong>The lack of response to this question here supports that this is a rare incident.</strong></p>
<p>The OEM has also requested the return of the failing heater element for analysis (shipping container included with replacement part).</p>
<p>Received new bed from OEM, installed bed, and printed successfully. First print after installing bed:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ieQDz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ieQDz.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Below is normally a difficult print to not have strings between the stringers, but the Fusion3 Edge printed with no strings on the first attempt.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3Sp5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3Sp5.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p><em>When looking at SRDD100 application notes, I wondered why the 3D printer designer switched the positive supply voltage instead of the ground as in the application notes. But, thinking about this, the heater is attached to the grounded aluminum bed. If the designer switched the ground instead of the positive supply, a short to the bed could cause thermal runaway. Thus, the designer had safety in mind.</em></p>
|
2023-10-14T06:17:01.367 | |layer-shifting|layer| | <p>I'm getting frequent layer shifts, always in the Y-axis. It's happening on more than one model, at least four to date, and on multiple attempts at the same models. Some of the models are mine (Tinkercad), some from Thingiverse. I can't think of any model that has not failed recently except some very small, simple ones.</p>
<p>The printer is a RepRapGuru I3 clone, from a kit, purchased, built, and put in service in Summer 2018. I've been using it almost daily since. It's gone through at least 50*1 kg spools of filament in that time so has seen a lot of use.</p>
<p>The printer has a single direct drive extruder, not Bowden. The frame is acrylic/plexiglass. The frame is solid, with no loose fasteners and no cracks that I can detect. There's no "soft foot".</p>
<p>If a model fails, it fails consistently on every attempt to print it. The layer shifts occur often, but not always, at exactly the same point in the print job. In those cases where I've witnessed the shift, there seems to always be a very rapid "jitterbug" motion going on, as in inter-wall infill or while laying down a long narrow section of the model or while building overhang. It happens sometimes, but not exclusively, on the first continuous layer of a "ceiling" above infill and often at or near a corner of the model. I don't believe I've seen it happen on the bottom few layers where the model has a solid "floor" nor during "steady steaming" printing of a large surface.</p>
<p>The magnitude of the shift varies but is typically roughly 5 mm, give or take. One, however, was about 30 mm. When it happens the sound suggests to me that the motor is slipping poles, not that the belt is slipping on the pulley, but that's only an impression. [NOTE: It's just occurred to me that I can put match marks on the belt and pulley. After a layer shift, if they're still aligned, I can pretty much rule out belt slippage. There's only a 1 in 20 chance they'd still be aligned after a shift. Will do that tonight.]</p>
<p>The failures I've seen do not occur at the beginning of a layer, i.e. during perimeter printing; they occur somewhere in the middle details of a layer.</p>
<p>The layer shifts began a few months ago. Prior to that, the machine had no chronic problems.</p>
<p>I few months ago (note the coincidence with the above paragraph) I rebuilt the printer with all new guide rods, linear bearings, belts, and pulleys, in stages over several weeks.</p>
<p>Before and after those updates, the Y carriage moved/moves smoothly and freely through its entire range with no tight spots.</p>
<p>Later still, I replaced the original quarter-inch acrylic Y carriage plate with a 3 mm thick (220 X 220 mm) aluminum one, with four linear bearings (new ones again) in new aluminum pillow blocks vice the original three bearings in split plastic pillow blocks on the original. I replaced the original heated bed with a new one that has, unlike the original, a 3 mm aluminum backing plate. The very wimpy original heat bed springs were replaced with new, stiffer ones.</p>
<p>The Y layer shifts started sometime shortly before or during the first series of updates. I'm certain the problem predates the heat bed and Y carriage replacement, but I've included that info above to communicate the current state of the machine.</p>
<p>I'm unsure whether this issue began before, during, or after the guide rod, bearing, belt, and pulley replacement, which were done in phases over several weeks. I can't definitely tie the issue to any particular phase of those upgrades. The layer shifts definitely began before the heat bed and Y carriage plate replacements.</p>
<p>Y belt tension is pretty normal, certainly not loose enough to cause it to jump teeth yet not overly tight. Tension is similar to that of the X belt, but that has a shorter span so maybe apples and oranges.</p>
<p>Speeds slow/fast Settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>Print: 40/60 mm/s</li>
<li>Travel: 65/80 mm/s</li>
<li>First Layer: 30/30 mm/s</li>
<li>Outer Perimeter: 40/40 mm/s</li>
<li>Inner Perimeter: 40/40 mm/s</li>
<li>Infill: 40/40 mm/s</li>
<li>Skin Infill: 40/49 mm/s</li>
</ul>
<p>The only changes to these speeds have been to reduce some of them since the layer shift problems began. None were particularly high to begin with except Travel/High was 150 mm/s vice the current 80 mm/s. Reducing them had no effect on the problem.</p>
<p>I typically run with retraction (2.5 mm; 40 mm/s) and Z-hop (0.5 mm) turned on.</p>
<p>The Marlin firmware on the 2560 main board has never been updated or modified in any way. I don't know the version but it's whatever RepRapGuru shipped with their kits in mid-2018. The shield board is RAMPS; I'm almost sure I remember "Version 1.4" on the box it came in within the kit.</p>
<p>I've never attempted to modify acceleration or jerk settings. They're as they've always been.</p>
<p>I use Repetier V2.3.2 software. I use the embedded "Cura Engine", which I believe is really an older Cura Steam Engine slicer, not the current Cura slicer. I have not tried other slicers.</p>
<p>The machine is controlled directly from a PC using the Repetier software and the embedded CuraEngine slicer; there is no SD card slot, digital display, or rotary encoder control. Gcode comes directly from the Repetier software on the PC to the printer via the USB connection.</p>
<p>Things I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>I've used the "Cut off Bottom" feature of the slicer to print test versions of some of the problem models at partial height, beginning a few layers before the common failure points. The failures still occur mostly at the same point in the model, indicating height above the bed is not the determining factor.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Where I can identify a common failure point in a model, I've examined the G-code in the vicinity of the failure point of a couple of models and can't see anything anomalous. I should point out I'm not a G-code expert.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I sent the G-code output from my slicer for an object that is consistently failing with layer shifts, to a friend. He printed it on his machine without problems (different machine, but still Marlin/RAMPS). This seemed to absolve the slicer/G-code as the culprit.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I swapped the X and Y stepper motors. The layer shifts continued, still always in the Y-axis. Motor shafts were straight and undamaged, motor mounting screws were tight as found, bearings seemed OK, and pulley set screws were tight. This seemed to absolve the Y stepper motor.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I swapped the Y stepper driver board with the unused E1 stepper board. The layer shifts continued, still always in the Y-axis. This seemed to absolve the stepper driver. (The motor and driver swaps were performed independently, with a failed test after each. Motors and driver boards are the originals.)</p>
</li>
<li><p>I rechecked the stepper current limit settings on the driver boards and all were found OK. The largest discrepancy from the target setting (0.50 V) was 0.03 V.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I had installed "smoothers", i.e. Schottky diode boards, between the drivers and stepper motors on X and Y a few years ago and never had problems but also didn't note any improvement from them at the time. I removed them during these problems without affecting the layer shift issue. They remain out.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I put an 80 mm muffin fan on the bench, directed toward the stepper drivers. It had no effect on the layer shifts.</p>
</li>
<li><p>After match marking the Y motor pulley and belt, I ran another test print. I killed the print after a series of Y layer shifts totaling approximately 8 mm in the +Y direction. The belt/pulley match marks were still aligned. This indicates pole slip.
The slips I observed were occurring where the printer was beginning to build a small section of overhang, where a brief but rapid series of short moves were made. There was a definite, dull clunk each time the motor slipped.
I was monitoring the 2560 Vcc at the time and saw nothing unusual.</p>
</li>
</ul>
| 21512 | Need help identifying cause of frequent Y layer shifts | <p>Thanks to some help from an expert this issue is resolved. The culprit was crosstalk between the X motor cable and the sense line of the Y endstop. Re-routing cables to separate the two has solved the problem.
Marlin monitors the endstop switches while printing unless inhibited by an option in the firmware; default is monitoring enabled. If a false low is detected during a move that move is stopped, resulting in a layer shift</p>
|
2023-10-15T15:41:49.893 | |pla|monoprice-mini-delta| | <p>I'm printing a model, sliced in Cura, on a Monoprice Mini Delta v2.</p>
<p>The model is long, about the width of the print bed. When I print it, the extruder drags the filament (which should stay in place) into the wrong position.</p>
<p>To summarize, my white PLA won't stick to the print bed (which is heated to 40 °C). Is the bed temp too low? Is the nozzle too high (200 °C)?</p>
<p>If someone could tell me how to get the PLA to stick- preferably a long-term option like print or bed temp - it would be greatly appreciated.</p>
| 21515 | How can I get PLA to stick to my printer bed? | <p>I would go with 60 degrees on the bed and check the bed levelling. You shouldn't be having a problem with PLA if the levelling is fine unless your filament has gone bad.</p>
|
2023-10-18T12:35:11.527 | |hotend|creality-cr-10|creality|fans|heat-creep| | <p>Printer: Creality CR-10 Smart<br />
Slicer: Cura</p>
<p>My axial fan, which cools the heatsink, broke down. I replaced it with a cheap knock-off fan, as it was the only option available. However, this replacement caused temperature fluctuations that went beyond the acceptable range.</p>
<p>Here's what I tried to fix the issue:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>I initially tried flipping the direction of the axial fan to make it blow hot air instead of surrounding air. This seemed to work for a while, but it caused heat to build up, and my 3D printer's filament stopped extruding from the nozzle.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I attempted to lower the current supplied to the fan, thinking it might help. However, this turned out to be a bad idea, as I wasn't sure how much current the main board could safely supply through this port. The result was that the resistor I used got fried.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I then decided to mount a 740 Ω resistor in series to create a voltage drop, leaving about 10 volts for the fan. Unfortunately, this also led to heat build-up.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Finally, I tried mounting a 320 Ω resistor, leaving about 14.5 volts for the fan, and this seemed to work fine.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>I'm concerned about heat dissipation and the overall reliability of this solution. What are your thoughts on this?</p>
<p>The issue stems from the small size of the heatsink and the large size of the axial fan, which directly faces the heat block. I'm now considering the option of mounting a 24 V, 3x3 cm fan and creating a custom mount for it.</p>
| 21528 | Changing axial fan on CR-10 smart caused temp fluctuation/heat creep | <p>After encountering issues with an unknown brand fan overpowering the Creality fan, I experimented with resistors. Initially, a 330-ohm resistor resolved the thermal runaway warning but led to under-extrusion due to inadequate cooling.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGxj2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGxj2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>A 100-ohm resistor addressed under-extrusion but triggered thermal runaway.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIbCT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIbCT.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The optimal solution was a 220-ohm resistor, resolving both issues.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NokK1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NokK1.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I've tested this setup for approximately 1 day, 11 hours, and 7 minutes with successful results.</p>
|
2023-10-21T15:01:13.687 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling| | <p>On my Creality Ender 3 v2, I have performed bed levelling and am fairly confident that the nozzle height is correct - a piece of paper under the nozzle can be pulled out with a gentle tug. For some reason, the first layer that prints always has the nozzle too far off the bed and so it's not adhering correctly.</p>
<p>I'm not sure if I've missed something with bed levelling, or if there is some other setting I need to tweak.</p>
<p>FYI I'm printing with a 0.8 mm diameter nozzle with 0.5 mm layer height and 0.45 mm initial layer height. When I look at the printer in action, the first pass looks like the nozzle is about 1 mm off the bed.</p>
| 21534 | Creality Ender 3 v2 1st layer too high off bed | <p>I think there were two things wrong here:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>I was not levelling the bed correctly - I was manually moving the z-axis down to the lower limit - which can be slightly different to the printer lowering until the limit switch activates (Menu > Prepare > Auto home).</p>
</li>
<li><p>Looking at the suggested answer <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19021/nozzle-not-level-and-first-print-failed">Nozzle not level and first print failed</a> I did check the position of my z-axis limit switch and it was pushed all the way downwards. I decided to try filing a bit off the notch which rests on the base rails so that the z-limit would be hit a bit lower.</p>
</li>
</ol>
|
2023-10-29T07:12:13.210 | |tinkercad| | <p>I have planned a simple object in TinkerCAD from a <em>box</em> with radius set to 1 mm.</p>
<p>However I would need to get a 3 mm rounding on the vertical axis, therefore I have added a quarter circular <em>eraser</em>.</p>
<p>Please see both of these in this shot:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnLuv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnLuv.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Now it's time to round the red one:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PT4i6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PT4i6.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Looks good from top-angle:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/d2Kr4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/d2Kr4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>But it's not rounded properly from other angles:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1M5IY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1M5IY.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I wish to maintain the 1 mm rounding on the whole edge, how can I do that?</p>
<p>I tried many things:</p>
<p>1.) Inverse ring eraser: almost good, but I would need 2 mm width, and 3 mm outer radius which is impossible (for a ring).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TANn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TANn.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>2.) Inverse half sphere: not good, as it's not the shape I need</p>
<h2>Finally</h2>
<p>I succeeded with a "hack": ring with 4 mm width and 6 mm radius, then scaled back to 50 %, making it 3 radius and 2 mm width. Then create variuos inverse-quarters from it (<em>eraser</em>) and tune them even further removing unnecessary halves:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SMAZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SMAZ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Using these erasers I could finally reach my goal:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCilM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCilM.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>However this is super-tedious, is there a better software out (I'm sure it is), which can do this "rounding" effect on any object? Now I'm satisfied, but if I need to</p>
<ul>
<li>increase the height</li>
<li>change the size</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm screwed up: will have to "slice" this object to 3 pieces, increase the size of the middle, and then put them back together. Do this for every single axis. (= scale operation I'll need to slice this object to 9 pieces).</p>
| 21552 | How to maintain 1 mm rounding when I need 3 mm in a single axis? | <p>TinkerCAD is a fine tool for simple designs, but when you need to fillet or chamfer corners, this involves too many actions where you cut out the parts to get the requested fillet/chamfer. It might be interesting to save time to move to a different design tool.</p>
<p>This geometry is recreated in a few minutes in e.g. Fusion360, considering this is a simple design, you need to change the order of the actions to fillet the object properly. Fillet the corners of the box prior to filetting the box itself:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CF1Zd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CF1Zd.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/arheg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/arheg.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeqIw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GeqIw.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>In case the design is way more complex an alternative solution would be to join a cube in the corner and round that:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/phkT3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/phkT3.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DFFa.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DFFa.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/05wMn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/05wMn.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLnjE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLnjE.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2023-10-30T16:57:58.700 | |freecad| | <p>I'm using (as pure beginner, please be respectful to my little knowledge in this topic) FreeCAD v0.21.1 for a simple design I wish to 3D print.</p>
<p>This is how it looks like from the front (at least partially):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5mEz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5mEz.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Text is made with <em>ShapeText</em> and I applied a small <em>Pocket</em> onto it in Part Design:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXHVo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXHVo.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I have many operations after this text pocket in the tree.</p>
<p>I'm satisfied with my results.</p>
<p>I however wished to make another one, with different text, so I followed a tutorial to copy my whole "Body_of_ND32" to a new "Body_of_ND16":</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMfl1.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMfl1.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>After this operation, I have got an error complaining "Recompute failed", and text pocket is containing the original "ND32" pocket, instead my new value.</p>
<p>Of course, I could rebuild the whole thing from scratch adding the text only at the end, to keep everything in shape, but can I somehow detect what's wrong with the recomputation?</p>
| 21558 | Compute failed? Why? | <p>A "Recompute failed" is not your fault. Freecad is a free CAD software that is maintained by more than 400 volunteers. It is a bug in the software and happens often, for example because of floating point rounding errors. Just moving or changing a shape or body a tiny amount might fix the problem. It could happen when intersecions happen exactly on a line, outlines make a shape self-intersect or beveled objects produce unexpected results or for other unexpected reasons. If you see a pattern in the cause of the error, you might file a <a href="https://github.com/FreeCAD/FreeCAD/issues" rel="nofollow noreferrer">bug report</a></p>
|
2023-11-01T08:45:01.660 | |marlin|ultimaker-cura|heated-bed|octoprint|cooling| | <p>I want to end the bed heating approximately X minutes before the print is finished so that the bed starts cooling and releasing the print.</p>
<p>Since an object can have different sizes and printing one layer can take very long or very quickly, I cannot simply insert an <code>M140 S0</code> before the last layer. <strong>What is the best time interval and method to achieve this?</strong> Is there a Cura slicer extension for it, an OctoPrint plugin, or should I write a custom script for Cura? I mostly print with a 50 °C heated bed and PLA using OctoPi on a Creality Ender 3 v2 with Marlin firmware. With a printer bed at room temperature, the print could come loose too early while still printing, so 20 °C might be too extreme. Make sure the printer is finished when the bed is around 35-40 °C? Is there any theory and method to back this up? Does this method have a term or name?</p>
| 21564 | What is the best time interval and method to stop heating the bed to start releasing before the print is finished? | <p>In addition to Oscar's answer, there is an OctoPrint plugin that attempts to achieve exactly that. The plugin uses the following and-condition to determine the moment to stop bed heating:</p>
<p>"printing finished for at least 90% <strong>and</strong> remaining print time is below 5 minutes".</p>
<p>The plugin is called <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/bedcooldown/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint-BedCooldown</a>. Its page describes:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Turns off the bed heater toward the end of a print</strong></p>
<p>For filaments such as PLA, many printers have more than enough stored thermal mass in the bed to keep bed adhesion throughout the print. Therefore, you may want to turn off the bed heater automatically before the end of a print, saving cooldown time.</p>
<p>The bed heater will be turned off during a print, when both conditions are met:</p>
<ul>
<li>The print time left is below the configured threshold (default 300 seconds / 5 minutes)</li>
<li>The print completion percentage is above the configured threshold (default 90%)
This should cover both long and short prints; you wouldn’t want the bed to turn off 90% into a 20 hour print, or 5 minutes before the end of a 10 minute total print.</li>
</ul>
<p>Be sure to monitor your print, as turning off the bed heater could cause the print to come loose prior to completion.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2023-11-01T09:28:38.737 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|ultimaker-cura|stepper|octoprint| | <p>I've noticed several times that one of my stepper motors is making a slight noise after a print is finished, indicating it's still enabled; also, the axes are still statically positioned and unmovable.</p>
<p>I meant that the stepper motors are still powered. Usually, after a print, the extruder moves up and away, and the bed moves to the front. However, some X seconds after that, I would like to automatically turn off the steppers because it could potentially preserve the lifetime of my stepper motors.</p>
<ul>
<li>Is this a common practice, and if so, does this method have a name?</li>
<li>Does it indeed potentially increase lifetime?</li>
<li>How to do it? (By simply adding <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M018.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M18/M84</code></a> at the end of my G-code using a Cura script or using an OctoPi plugin?)</li>
<li>Are there any other pros or cons to powering off stepper motors after the print has finished?</li>
</ul>
| 21565 | What are the pros and cons of automatically turning off stepper motors after a print? Does it increase the stepper motor's lifetime? | <p>While it's plausible that it might increase lifetime, I doubt it. Unless you're driving them out of spec and allowing them to overheat, motor coils should last pretty much indefinitely. The main wear component in a stepper motor is the bearings, not the coils, and the bearings do not get any additional wear from having the coils energized, only from actually turning.</p>
<p>The advantage you <strong>do</strong> get from turning off the steppers is energy savings. As long as the stepper is energized, you're burning roughly <span class="math-container">$I^2R$</span> watts, where <span class="math-container">$I$</span> is the current you're driving the motor at and <span class="math-container">$R$</span> is the coil resistance. You also eliminate the stepper hum, which can be really infuriating to some people's ears, and if your board has properly firmware-switchable fans, you let the fans power down too, which also saves energy and cuts noise.</p>
<p>Another aspect that can be an advantage or a disadvantage is that, once steppers are powered off, you can move the motion components by hand. This can be nice for adjusting the toolhead and bed to remove the completed print, but it can also cause the toolhead or bed to fall due to gravity, which can lead to damage to the printed part or the printer. If this is an issue, on most kinematic systems (pretty much anything but delta or corexz) you can leave the Z stepper(s) energized between prints, and only disable the X/Y ones. The reduction gearing/leadscrew lead on most printers makes it so Z doesn't need anywhere near the current of X/Y, so turning off X/Y and just leaving Z engaged still gets you most of the power conservation.</p>
|
2023-11-01T10:24:46.457 | |ultimaker-cura|g-code|octoprint| | <p>I recently started using this <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/prusaslicerthumbnails/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slicer Thumbnails</a> plugin in OctoPrint and added the steps to my Cura 5.5 slicer. However, my thumbnails are in one color, like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QHHI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails plugin for Cura slicer showing the model as a single, all-black image"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QHHI.png" alt="Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails plugin for Cura slicer showing the model as a single, all-black image" title="Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails plugin for Cura slicer showing the model as a single, all-black image" /></a></p>
<p>And are not showing any depth as shown for example on the plugin page:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UruMum.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails webpage showing a multi-colored preview thumbnail"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UruMum.png" alt="Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails webpage showing a multi-colored preview thumbnail" title="Screenshot of the Slicer Thumbnails webpage showing a multi-colored preview thumbnail" /></a></p>
<p>Am I missing something here or is there a better way to create and add beautiful thumbnails?</p>
<p><em>For reference, I used the model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6291901" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Female Scart Dust Cap for Male Scart Connector</a></em>.</p>
| 21567 | Why are my Cura generated thumbnails showing in one flat color without any depth? | <p>After a lot of trial and error I figured it out. I thought it was the result of having very small models but it turns out that <strong>simply changing the Filament Color in Cura Filament Profiles</strong> also translates to the Thumbnail color. Using a filament profile with the color black apparently doesn't show depth.</p>
<p>Below is the thumbnail using the original Cura Thumbnail Script and another Filament Color which resulted in the following transparent PNG Thumbnail:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRUph.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="SCART cover 3d model generated by original Cura Thumbnail script"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SRUph.png" alt="SCART cover 3d model generated by original Cura Thumbnail script" title="SCART cover 3d model generated by original Cura Thumbnail script" /></a></p>
<p>Instead of the original script I also tried using the Cura script <a href="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2/Ender3v2-Released/slicer%20scripts/cura/CreateJPEGThumbnail.py" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cura JPEG Thumbnail creator</a> as described at <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-generate-a-gcode-preview" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to generate a gcode preview</a> which resulted in the following JPG Thumbnail:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpT87.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="SCART cover 3d model generated by mriscoc Cura Thumbnail script"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpT87.png" alt="SCART cover 3d model generated by mriscoc Cura Thumbnail script" title="SCART cover 3d model generated by mriscoc Cura Thumbnail script" /></a></p>
|
2023-11-02T07:32:08.690 | |plastic| | <p>Plastic straws are forbidden in the EU so it will get harder to buy them. I wonder if it is possible to 3D print plastic straws? I would likely use them as tools when woodworking, but if you can use them to drink beverages that would be a bonus. I am not familiar with 3D printing so I don't know if it is possible to get them bendable and so on like usual plastic straws.</p>
| 21570 | Is it possible to 3D print plastic straws? | <p>It indeed <em>is</em> possible to print a plastic straw via 3D printing, however it requires a considerable amount of precision and supports during 3D printing, modelling and slicing.</p>
<p>This is because as the 3D printers build the plastic straw layer-after-layer, the circular structure could result in instabilities and therefore requires some time to condense.</p>
<p>Overall, these structures are possible to be 3D printed but not as easy as it seems, and way more expensive to print as well.</p>
|
2023-11-05T12:06:54.643 | |3d-design|stl|cad|obj|rotation| | <p>I have little experience with CAD software, only use Thinkercad and only recently started using the Revoscan app. I know how to rotate files when slicing (in Cura) but that only has an effect on the generated gcode file, not the STL/OBJ file. But as I'm trying to publish a few things I scanned using Kiri Engine (photogrammetry app) where the original rotation is wrong.</p>
<p>I want to know if I have an object in OBJ/STL format how do I rotate the position in those files so I can publish my OBJ/STL files in the proper rotation. I'm fine to use another app or tool, I just don't know how to do it yet.</p>
| 21583 | How to change the orientation of an object inside the STL or OBJ file? | <p>Many 3D editing programs exist that will accomplish your objective. Tinkercad will do this as well, using the rotate feature, followed by moving it to the build plane and exporting it as an STL as desired.</p>
<p>Fusion 360 is available for free personal use, but has a bit of a learning curve.</p>
<p>Meshmixer from Autodesk will also rotate in the x/y/z axes and also place the model on the build plane.</p>
<p>You've presented your objective well enough. I suggest to pick a single program and ask specifically how to accomplish that which you are unable to achieve.</p>
|
2023-11-05T12:12:20.563 | |3d-models|3d-design|stl|cad|obj| | <p>When scanning objects like sculptures using Kiri Engine (photogrammetry) often the bottom is open. What I currently do after exporting to OBJ, is opening it in my RevoScan app and use the "fill holes" feature to select it and fill it. However that's usually not entirely flat and suitable for printing and results in artifacts. What I then do it simply lower the object when slicing to sub-zero/a negative value to have a small part of the object be under the bed, basically cutting it off and leaving a perfectly flat surface in my gcode.</p>
<p>However, I want to really be able to do this in my STL/OBJ file already for publishing to Thingiverse. How do I alter the STL/OBJ file to basically achieve the same, but in my object rather than in the final gcode?</p>
| 21584 | How to I give my mesh object (STL/OBJ) a flat surface? | <p>Associated with your other question, Meshmixer (and Fusion 360) will perform plane cuts. I feel that Meshmixer will accomplish easier the plane cut you seek, as one simply imports the model, selects the model by clicking on it, then from the tool bar on the left, selects Edit/Plane Cut. Manipulating the plane which appears with respect to translation and rotation is done with gizmos within the main window. Note the dialog box which should be set to re-mesh in order to properly close the cut.</p>
<p>One of the gizmos will allow you to select which side of the plane remains after the cut. If you make an error (in most programs), Control-Z will allow you to reverse the last few actions to try again.</p>
<p>Tinkercad can be used by creating a cube larger than the object, turning it into a "hole" and placing it to cut in the desired manner. Tinkercad will also glitch with too many triangles/facets, which leaves Meshmixer a better option in my opinion.</p>
<p>Please note that for both questions, you'll find helpful videos with tutorial approaches, to make your objectives that much easier. Too many to link in a practical manner.</p>
|
2023-11-05T17:33:55.923 | |creality-ender-3|nozzle|maintenance| | <p>What is the average or recommended lifespan for standard Creality printer nozzles used with non-abrasive standard PLA only? What is a proper metric for that, time used, time heated, filament meters that passed through?</p>
<p>Does the nozzle diameter affect the lifespan?</p>
<p><em>I know nozzles are cheap, but I'm asking because I'm thinking of writing a maintenance tracking plugin for printer parts in OctoPrint.</em></p>
| 21589 | What is the lifespan of nozzles, and does the nozzle diameter affect the lifespan? | <h2>Print material matters more</h2>
<p>Non-abrasive materials can leave a soft brass nozzle live for dozens of filament spools without noticeable degradation, especially if the nozzle tip is hot enough to keep it above melting point and does not scrape over cooler areas. However, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18217/does-abrasive-filament-require-a-special-hotend/18220#18220">abrasive filaments</a> can eat a nozzle within just a couple gross meters. One of the worst offenders is <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14803/preventing-my-printer-nozzle-from-getting-too-dull-from-nothing-but-pla-filamen/14813#14813">Carbon-Fiber</a> or Glass-Fiber infused material, requiring, for example, ruby-tipped nozzles, or <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11290/what-is-the-purpose-behind-a-glass-nozzle/11297#11297">glass-nozzles</a> to withstand more than about 300 meters (~2 Gross).</p>
<p>Note that <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14402/how-do-i-know-if-a-filament-is-abrasive">any filled filament</a> is abrasive to some degree, and nobody advertises with the fact that the filament is abrasive.</p>
<h2>Nozzle formfactor impact</h2>
<p>A larger nozzle allows the extrusion of more plastic per time. The plastic itself, as it cools, can act as an abrasive itself. So to a degree, nozzle geometry will have an impact on the print. A flat around the nozzle orifice such as with the venerable e3D v6 nozzle design can help in keeping the orifice intact a little longer (as the nozzle has more thermal mass and can press down the filament further away from the orifice), but a thinner tip has other benefits (such as reacting faster to temperature change) at the cost of longevity in this one regard.</p>
<h2>Nozzle diameter impact?</h2>
<p>Typically, nozzles wear much faster and lose their tip from grinding on the printed material than that the material getting pushed through them starts to bore out the nozzle. This can be seen very well in <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the experiments Stefan/CNC Kitchen conducted.</a> Also <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODQoQd-0ky" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here.</a></p>
|
2023-11-06T10:57:40.443 | |marlin|octoprint|automatic-bed-leveling|aml|mriscoc| | <p><em>I recently started using the new <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc firmware for my Creality Ender 3 V2</a> and it is truly performing above expectations. Even considering that Jyers UI was already a step up from the original Creality firmware</em>.</p>
<p>I'm trying to understand how the new feature, that seems specific to this firmware, called <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Adaptive-Mesh-Leveling-(AML)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Adaptive Mesh Leveling (AML)</a> actually works in the firmware.</p>
<p>Below is a screenshot of how the Cura Plugin shows AML options:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzZEgl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TzZEgl.png" alt="Cura Post Processing Plugin - Professional Firmware Support" /></a></p>
<p>I have successfully tested AML and I think it's a truly transformative and great way to do fast and more precise bed leveling, only to the relevant print areas on the bed. Also, while probing, the screen shows each probing point in real time being filled in a grid.</p>
<p>However, I noticed that when using <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Octoprint#bed-level-visualizer-support" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the OctoPrint Bed Visualizer instructions</a> to obtain just the mesh data using the following g-code in the OctoPrint Plugin Settings:</p>
<pre><code>M155 S30 ; set temperature reporting delay, use a value longer than the time it takes for your leveling command to complete.
@BEDLEVELVISUALIZER ; instruct plugin to start recording responses from printer.
M420 V ; Get bed leveling mesh data.
M155 S3 ; set the temperature reporting delay back to a shorter time span.
</code></pre>
<p>My previously generated 5x5 of 9x9 <strong>full bed grid</strong> is no longer showing, instead the <strong>mini grid</strong> that was made on the print area is showing, as a full bed. Which makes me wonder, how does the firmware deal with AML? Is it basically tricked into using a subarea of the printer as a virtual 'new bed', the new maximum bed size being only a portion of the full bed?</p>
<p><em>Additionally would there be a way for OctoPrints Bed Visualizer plugin to even know if it deals with the full bed grid or the AML 'mini grid' and if so would it be exactly on which part of the full-bed the mini-grid was generated?</em></p>
| 21597 | How does Adaptive Mesh Leveling (AML) actually work? | <p>Bed Visualizer shows the mesh leveling area regardless of the bed size, that is good because it provides a good level of detail if the mesh area is very small compared to the bed size.</p>
<p>But it could be a useful addition if displaying the mesh area over set to the bed size were possible through a configurable option.</p>
|
2023-11-06T11:07:55.847 | |firmware|octoprint|thermal-runaway| | <p>With the following thought in mind: 'Two eyes are better than one' does additional Thermal Runaway detection in OctoPrint add any benefit?</p>
<p>This <a href="https://github.com/AlexVerrico/Octoprint-ThermalRunaway" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint-ThermalRunaway Plugin</a> seems to add a basic ThermalRunaway detection in OctoPrint. I understand all the smart disclaimers he makes. Security-wise, of course, we should prefer mechanical over firmware, and firmware over external software (OctoPrint). And I think printers that don't have at least any kind of firmware runaway protection should be trashed instantly.</p>
<p>However, assuming you already have a printer running firmware runaway protection would this OctoPlugin add any value, 'in case firmware runaway protection' somehow fails?</p>
<p><strong>Related</strong>: Firmware runaway detection as well as the mentioned 'solution' in OctoPrint are based on sending an emergency gcode to the board and performing an emergency shutdown.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Wouldn't it be better, more secure if the power was cut from the printer entirely? Eg. instead of an OctoPrint plugin sending an emergency g-code, it sending an power disable command to a smart plug (API)?<br><sub>Source: <a href="https://github.com/AlexVerrico/Octoprint-ThermalRunaway/issues/35" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Octoprint-ThermalRunaway issue</a></sub></p>
</blockquote>
| 21598 | Does additional thermal runaway in OctoPrint add anything and shouldn't it use a smart plug to kill power instead? | <p>It can save prints in specific situations. If you set maximum temperature lower than the one configured in the firmware, and configure the command set to cause printer to stop heating instead of stopping altogether, it is possible that plugin will stop printer from overheating before printer will panic and stop mid-print.</p>
<p>This, of course, does not replace other protections, but I recently lost a couple of hours of printing due to stupid error on my part, and this plugin might have prevented it.</p>
<p>It shouldn't be used instead of firmware protection. But I can see how it can be use to supplement it.</p>
|
2023-11-06T11:27:44.370 | |print-quality|filament|nozzle|quality|filament-quality| | <p>Given that, a printer is well-maintained and calibrated.</p>
<p>I'm searching for a particular nozzle accuracy and filament quality test:</p>
<ul>
<li>First, is there a specific print test that can be performed to test the quality of the nozzle alone, based on the visual results? Can that be reflected in a score of some kind, a metric reflecting the nozzle quality?</li>
<li>Secondly, is there a specific print test to test the filament quality, <strong>not strength properties</strong>, solely based on the visual results? Can that be reflected in a filament quality score or metric?</li>
<li>Lastly, are there "known good" standards that results could be compared with?</li>
</ul>
| 21600 | Can a print test be performed to determine nozzle and filament quality? | <h2>Mostly a Relative measure</h2>
<p>Assuming you have a well-known, well-printing nozzle and filament combination, then you can print a <strong>benchmark</strong> print, change one factor and then test with altered settings.</p>
<p>One of the most ubiquitous prints for a benchmark is <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18604/why-is-a-3d-benchy-considered-a-good-test-print-for-fdm-printers">Benchy</a>. Benchy isn't so much a calibration test, but has all aspects you need in a benchmark. Overhangs, rounded corners, sharp corners, small diameter parts and sharp corners followed by longer stretches: it's all in there! and with those one gets a decent idea of print quality for other parts.</p>
<p>Another typical benchmark test is a cube, which has the sharp corners and stretches.</p>
<p>Depending on which factors you switched, you get a resulting <strong>relative</strong> quality comparison between the two prints. But you won't get a <em>measurable</em> metric, unless you invent a score based on artifacts.</p>
<h2>Filament factors</h2>
<p>Among the factors that would show up based on bad filament. The three most noticeable I can think of are:</p>
<ul>
<li>hissing, bubbling & gaps can indicate wet filament</li>
<li>stretches of random underextrusion and motor skipping can indicate uneven filament diameter</li>
<li>sudden stalling of the extruder and no extrusion indicates a bulge on the filament</li>
</ul>
<h2>Nozzle factors</h2>
<p>Nozzle problems generally are systemic and would show up on the whole print.</p>
<ul>
<li>clogs from bad machining result in systematic underextrusion or no extrusion at all</li>
<li>too large a nozzle shows in a larger print</li>
<li>too small a nozzle shows in bad wall-to-wall and inter-layer adhesion and extruder skipping</li>
</ul>
|
2023-11-07T06:23:00.757 | |print-quality|layer-height|layer| | <p>What is considered a 'good' layer height for the first layer? Should it be relatively smaller than the other layers, or should it be considered relative to the nozzle diameter? Can the community suggest an appropriate layer height for the first layer with justification?</p>
| 21603 | What is an appropriate layer size for the first layer? | <p>If the first layer is so thin the bed clearly shows through, your extruder is skipping steps unable to push enough filament, or the nozzle drags over the bed surface, you're too low.</p>
<p>If the cross-section profile of the extruded thread of filament is round, first layer of a print results in separate threads of filament with gaps in between or parts bulging, detached from the bed, filament doesn't form clear sharp corners where it turns 90 degrees, or becomes detached, you're too high.</p>
<p>The right height is when the filament is smeared somewhat flat, but still with noticeable thickness. And considering inaccuracy of printer rails, bed, drive trains, achieving such profile throughout the entire bed surface, never getting into 'too thin' or 'too thick' is what you strive for. Whether it's 0.07 or 0.13mm, doesn't really matter, what matters is it doesn't go below or above the range at any point of the bed.</p>
<p>A typical 0.4mm nozzle with 0.1mm first layer height is most likely to achieve this, but when in doubt, too thin will only result in dimensional inaccuracy and thinner bottom; too high will result in poor adhesion and may end up with the whole print detaching from the bed.</p>
|
2023-11-10T18:59:43.917 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|firmware| | <p>I updated firmware on my Ender3 v2. Previously I used to have precompiled 2.0.7. Now I compiled 2.0.9 from source. Everything seems to work fine except of Move menu. Previously, I pushed the button to select axis in menu, rotated the button to set move value, and pushed again to confirm and only after confirm my head started to move. Using new firmware, I push the button to select axis, rotate the button - and head starts moving during rotation, not waiting until I push button to confirm move.</p>
<p>Could anyone help me out, which config parameter is responsible for this behavior? Or was it changed inside firmware?</p>
| 21615 | Ender3 v2 on Marlin moves head while rotating button | <p>Depending on the firmware you may have the option to disable live motion. Marlin has different UI for the Ender3V2 (DWIN type display), which you can choose in the configuration.h file just after the line:</p>
<pre><code>// Ender-3 v2 OEM display. A DWIN display with Rotary Encoder.
</code></pre>
<p>You can enable the <strong>DWIN_LCD_PROUI</strong> to get the option to desactive live motion</p>
<pre><code>//#define DWIN_CREALITY_LCD // Creality UI
#define DWIN_LCD_PROUI // Pro UI by MRiscoC
</code></pre>
<p>You can also look for other Marlin forks with more implemented features, for example:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/27xm6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/27xm6.jpg" alt="Move axis menu" /></a></p>
|
2023-11-11T17:51:30.300 | |3d-design|nozzle|fusion360| | <p>I am really new to 3D printing. I started with downloaded stuff about 2 months ago and now I am starting to do my own "easy" things.</p>
<p>While looking at tutorials I heard one of them talking about doing a chaffer of a specific size/height because he had a 0.40 mm Nozzle (the same as the one I have with an Anycubic Vyper). This got me thinking about if I should also take into consideration my Nozzle size for when I try to design something.</p>
<p>For example, should I think about multiples of 0.40 mm when deciding overall lengths or heights?</p>
<p>If I need to create space between 2 pieces, or joint pieces, should I always have to leave a multiple of 0.40 mm space between those pieces?</p>
<p>I have tried to find out info about this but I just found info about the importance of the Nozzle size at the time of print, but not at design time.</p>
<p>I am using Fusion 360 if that info is needed.</p>
| 21620 | Does one has to take into consideration the nozzle diameter while designing something that will be 3D printed? | <p>It would depend on what you are printing and the tolerances that you require.</p>
<p>For example, if you are producing engineering parts, and are a skilled designer, then you should take the nozzle size and layer height into consideration. Though the order of wall printing will probably be of more interest to you (If you print the inner walls first then the outer walls might bulge outwards slightly, and vice versa).</p>
<p>If you ware making garage kit style sculptures and busts, then you don't really need to think about the nozzle at all. Your slicing software will automatically adjust the print to fit what is possible and the slight differences won't make much of a difference.</p>
<p>If you're trying to print warhammer size figures, then yes you do need to take the nozzle width into consideration as it will effect the small details that you print. Which is why people mostly choose resin printers for this scale.</p>
<p>If you're only an average skill designer making items that don't require extremely delicate details or high tolerances for practical parts, then don't really need to even think about your nozzle.</p>
<p>I have an Ender 5 that's still using the 0.4 mm nozzle that it shipped with quite happily.</p>
<p><strong>TLDR</strong>: If you're new to 3D printing and aren't trying to print Warhammer figures or engineering parts, you can largely forget about your nozzle. You won't notice the difference until you're much more skilled at modelling and are looking to do resin quality tollerances.</p>
|
2023-11-13T18:55:40.017 | |electronics|laser| | <p>I have a 3D printer (Artillery Genius Pro) with a 24 V motherboard. I want to connect this motherboard a 12 V laser engraver module. If my motherboard was 12 V (with 12 V, GND, and PWM pins), I believe I could do it. In that case, I would connect 12 V, GND, and PWM of the laser module to 12 V, GND and Blower Fan (as PWM) of the motherboard. But my 3D printer has a 24 V board. How can I connect my 12 V laser module to my 24 V motherboard?</p>
<p>Your guidance in this direction will be highly appreciated.</p>
| 21631 | Connecting 12 V Laser Module to 24 V Control Board | <p>You'll need a 12 V step-down regulator to convert your 24 V to 12V, or a separate power supply for the laser module (make sure to connect each PSU's ground terminals).</p>
<p>It also depends on what sort of PWM your module expects.
The fan control on 3D printer boards is done by turning on and off the ground connection to the fan, while the positive supply (12/24 V) is on constantly. This may not be what your module requires.</p>
<p>Maybe it's fine with a 5 V PWM signal (usually called "TTL signal"), in which case you could use any available digital pin (e.g. from the endstop connectors) and set your firmware up to use that pin as the "fan". Depending on the firmware, there may be delays between the change in "fan speed" / laser power being scheduled and it actually being applied. If it needs 12 V PWM, I like using <a href="http://www.handsontec.com/dataspecs/L298N%20Motor%20Driver.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">L298N</a>-based "motor drivers" to drive loads like this. Hook up the inputs to the motor driver to the output of the step-down regulator and connect the corresponding input to one of your motherboard's PWM pins.</p>
|
2023-11-15T11:45:25.660 | |marlin|anet-a8|automatic-bed-leveling| | <p>Recently added a probe to my Anet A8 for auto bed levelling, calculations have been added based on position of probe to hotend as required. I'm using Marlin 1.1.9.</p>
<p>When I go into 'Prepare' in the printer settings to select auto home, it doesn't centre on the bed, seems to go to the back right. I presume this should be to the centre of the bed? I can't find where to change this in the config. Note the LCD screen shows X:153, Y:114. Config below.</p>
<pre><code>//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================
// @section homing
// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
// Enable pullup for all endstops to prevent a floating state
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// Disable ENDSTOPPULLUPS to set pullups individually
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE
/**
* Endstop Noise Filter
*
* Enable this option if endstops falsely trigger due to noise.
* NOTE: Enabling this feature means adds an error of +/-0.2mm, so homing
* will end up at a slightly different position on each G28. This will also
* reduce accuracy of some bed probes.
* For mechanical switches, the better approach to reduce noise is to install
* a 100 nanofarads ceramic capacitor in parallel with the switch, making it
* essentially noise-proof without sacrificing accuracy.
* This option also increases MCU load when endstops or the probe are enabled.
* So this is not recommended. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
* (This feature is not required for common micro-switches mounted on PCBs
* based on the Makerbot design, since they already include the 100nF capacitor.)
*/
//#define ENDSTOP_NOISE_FILTER
//=============================================================================
//============================== Movement Settings ============================
//=============================================================================
// @section motion
/**
* Default Settings
*
* These settings can be reset by M502
*
* Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.
*/
/**
* With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the
* following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the
* total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.
*/
//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 400, 100 }
/**
* Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)
* Override with M203
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 400, 400, 8, 50 }
/**
* Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)
* Override with M201
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 2000, 2000, 100, 10000 }
/**
* Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* Override with M204
*
* M204 P Acceleration
* M204 R Retract Acceleration
* M204 T Travel Acceleration
*/
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 400 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 // E acceleration for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves
/**
* Default Jerk (mm/s)
* Override with M205 X Y Z E
*
* "Jerk" specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.
* When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the
* value set here, it may happen instantaneously.
*/
#define DEFAULT_XJERK 10.0
#define DEFAULT_YJERK 10.0
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.3
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0
/**
* S-Curve Acceleration
*
* This option eliminates vibration during printing by fitting a Bézier
* curve to move acceleration, producing much smoother direction changes.
*
* See https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki/Jerk-Controlled-Motion-Explained
*/
//#define S_CURVE_ACCELERATION
//===========================================================================
//============================= Z Probe Options =============================
//===========================================================================
// @section probes
//
// See http://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/probes.html
//
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.
*/
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.
* (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)
* To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.
*
* - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.
* - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.
*
* - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4->D32 pin:
* - For simple switches connect...
* - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.
* - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.
*
* WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially
* disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.
*
*/
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
/**
* Probe Type
*
* Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.
* Activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.
*/
/**
* The "Manual Probe" provides a means to do "Auto" Bed Leveling without a probe.
* Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands
* or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.
*/
//#define PROBE_MANUALLY
//#define MANUAL_PROBE_START_Z 0.2
/**
* A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.
* (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)
*/
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
/**
* Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.
*/
//#define Z_PROBE_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.
//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles
/**
* The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.
*/
//#define BLTOUCH
#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)
//#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
#endif
/**
* Enable one or more of the following if probing seems unreliable.
* Heaters and/or fans can be disabled during probing to minimize electrical
* noise. A delay can also be added to allow noise and vibration to settle.
* These options are most useful for the BLTouch probe, but may also improve
* readings with inductive probes and piezo sensors.
*/
//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing
#if ENABLED(PROBING_HEATERS_OFF)
//#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER // Wait for bed to heat back up between probes (to improve accuracy)
#endif
//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF // Turn fans off when probing
//#define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 200 // (ms) To prevent vibrations from triggering piezo sensors
// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)
//#define SOLENOID_PROBE
// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.
//#define Z_PROBE_SLED
//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.
//
// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.
//
/**
* Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
* X and Y offsets must be integers.
*
* In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
* #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
* #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
*
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
*/
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -43
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -4
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
// X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
// Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
// Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
// Certain types of probes need to stay away from edges
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 6000
// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z
// Feedrate (mm/m) for the "accurate" probe of each point
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)
// The number of probes to perform at each point.
// Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.
// Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 3
/**
* Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between
* probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.
* Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.
* Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.
*
* Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or
* lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)
* probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.
* Only integer values >= 1 are valid here.
*
* Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4 => 9mm from bed to nozzle.
* But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2 => 2mm from bed to nozzle.
*/
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points
#define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE 5 // Z Clearance between multiple probes
//#define Z_AFTER_PROBING 5 // Z position after probing is done
#define Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT -2 // Farthest distance below the trigger-point to go before stopping
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST
// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders
// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.
// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy
//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING
// @section extruder
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.
// @section machine
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
// @section extruder
// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false
#define INVERT_E4_DIR false
// @section homing
//#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING // Inhibit movement until all axes have been homed
//#define UNKNOWN_Z_NO_RAISE // Don't raise Z (lower the bed) if Z is "unknown." For beds that fall when Z is powered off.
//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...
// Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.
// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// :[-1,1]
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
// @section machine
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -33
#define Y_MIN_POS -10
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
/**
* Software Endstops
*
* - Prevent moves outside the set machine bounds.
* - Individual axes can be disabled, if desired.
* - X and Y only apply to Cartesian robots.
* - Use 'M211' to set software endstops on/off or report current state
*/
// Min software endstops constrain movement within minimum coordinate bounds
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
// Max software endstops constrain movement within maximum coordinate bounds
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS) || ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
//#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM // Enable/Disable software endstops from the LCD
#endif
/**
* Filament Runout Sensors
* Mechanical or opto endstops are used to check for the presence of filament.
*
* RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN for the first runout sensor.
* For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN, FIL_RUNOUT2_PIN, etc.
* By default the firmware assumes HIGH=FILAMENT PRESENT.
*/
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
#define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.
#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"
#endif
//===========================================================================
//=============================== Bed Leveling ==============================
//===========================================================================
// @section calibrate
/**
* Choose one of the options below to enable G29 Bed Leveling. The parameters
* and behavior of G29 will change depending on your selection.
*
* If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
* Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)
* You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.
* The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
* Probe several points in a grid.
* You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
* The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
* Probe several points in a grid.
* You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.
* The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.
*
* - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL (Unified Bed Leveling)
* A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits
* of other systems. UBL also includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh
* Validation and Mesh Editing systems.
*
* - MESH_BED_LEVELING
* Probe a grid manually
* The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.)
* For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform
* leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point.
With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step.
*/
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING
/**
* Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable
* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.
*/
//#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
/**
* Enable detailed logging of G28, G29, M48, etc.
* Turn on with the command 'M111 S32'.
* NOTE: Requires a lot of PROGMEM!
*/
//#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE
#if ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
// Gradually reduce leveling correction until a set height is reached,
// at which point movement will be level to the machine's XY plane.
// The height can be set with M420 Z<height>
#define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT
// For Cartesian machines, instead of dividing moves on mesh boundaries,
// split up moves into short segments like a Delta. This follows the
// contours of the bed more closely than edge-to-edge straight moves.
#define SEGMENT_LEVELED_MOVES
#define LEVELED_SEGMENT_LENGTH 5.0 // (mm) Length of all segments (except the last one)
/**
* Enable the G26 Mesh Validation Pattern tool.
*/
//#define G26_MESH_VALIDATION
#if ENABLED(G26_MESH_VALIDATION)
#define MESH_TEST_NOZZLE_SIZE 0.4 // (mm) Diameter of primary nozzle.
#define MESH_TEST_LAYER_HEIGHT 0.2 // (mm) Default layer height for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.
#define MESH_TEST_HOTEND_TEMP 205.0 // (°C) Default nozzle temperature for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.
#define MESH_TEST_BED_TEMP 60.0 // (°C) Default bed temperature for the G26 Mesh Validation Tool.
#endif
#endif
#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)
// Set the number of grid points per dimension.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
//#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10
//#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION (X_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) 167
//#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10
//#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION (Y_BED_SIZE - MIN_PROBE_EDGE) 202
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 167
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 206
// Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column
//#define PROBE_Y_FIRST
#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)
// Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt?
// Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge.
//#define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID
//
// Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method.
// Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh.
//
//#define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION
#if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)
// Number of subdivisions between probe points
#define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3
#endif
#endif
#elif ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
//===========================================================================
//========================= Unified Bed Leveling ============================
//===========================================================================
//#define MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY // Display a graphics overlay while editing the mesh
#define MESH_INSET 1 // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 10 // Don't use more than 15 points per axis, implementation limited.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
#define UBL_MESH_EDIT_MOVES_Z // Sophisticated users prefer no movement of nozzle
#define UBL_SAVE_ACTIVE_ON_M500 // Save the currently active mesh in the current slot on M500
//#define UBL_Z_RAISE_WHEN_OFF_MESH 2.5 // When the nozzle is off the mesh, this value is used
// as the Z-Height correction value.
#elif ENABLED(MESH_BED_LEVELING)
//===========================================================================
//=================================== Mesh ==================================
//===========================================================================
#define MESH_INSET 10 // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X
//#define MESH_G28_REST_ORIGIN // After homing all axes ('G28' or 'G28 XYZ') rest Z at Z_MIN_POS
#endif // BED_LEVELING
/**
* Points to probe for all 3-point Leveling procedures.
* Override if the automatically selected points are inadequate.
*/
#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL)
#define PROBE_PT_1_X 20
#define PROBE_PT_1_Y 160
#define PROBE_PT_2_X 20
#define PROBE_PT_2_Y 10
#define PROBE_PT_3_X 180
#define PROBE_PT_3_Y 10
#endif
/**
* Add a bed leveling sub-menu for ABL or MBL.
* Include a guided procedure if manual probing is enabled.
*/
//#define LCD_BED_LEVELING
#if ENABLED(LCD_BED_LEVELING)
#define MBL_Z_STEP 0.025 // Step size while manually probing Z axis.
#define LCD_PROBE_Z_RANGE 4 // Z Range centered on Z_MIN_POS for LCD Z adjustment
#endif
// Add a menu item to move between bed corners for manual bed adjustment
//#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS
#if ENABLED(LEVEL_BED_CORNERS)
#define LEVEL_CORNERS_INSET 30 // (mm) An inset for corner leveling
//#define LEVEL_CENTER_TOO // Move to the center after the last corner
#endif
/**
* Commands to execute at the end of G29 probing.
* Useful to retract or move the Z probe out of the way.
*/
//#define Z_PROBE_END_SCRIPT "G1 Z10 F12000\nG1 X15 Y330\nG1 Z0.5\nG1 Z10"
// @section homing
// The center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0
// Manually set the home position. Leave these undefined for automatic settings.
// For DELTA this is the top-center of the Cartesian print volume.
//#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
// Use "Z Safe Homing" to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area.
//
// With this feature enabled:
//
// - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled.
// - If stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.
// - Move the Z probe (or nozzle) to a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).
// - Prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside bed area.
//
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#endif
// Homing speeds (mm/m)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (100*60)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (4*60)
// @section calibrate
/**
* Bed Skew Compensation
*
* This feature corrects for misalignment in the XYZ axes.
*
* Take the following steps to get the bed skew in the XY plane:
* 1. Print a test square (e.g., https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185)
* 2. For XY_DIAG_AC measure the diagonal A to C
* 3. For XY_DIAG_BD measure the diagonal B to D
* 4. For XY_SIDE_AD measure the edge A to D
*
* Marlin automatically computes skew factors from these measurements.
* Skew factors may also be computed and set manually:
*
* - Compute AB : SQRT(2*AC*AC+2*BD*BD-4*AD*AD)/2
* - XY_SKEW_FACTOR : TAN(PI/2-ACOS((AC*AC-AB*AB-AD*AD)/(2*AB*AD)))
*
* If desired, follow the same procedure for XZ and YZ.
* Use these diagrams for reference:
*
* Y Z Z
* ^ B-------C ^ B-------C ^ B-------C
* | / / | / / | / /
* | / / | / / | / /
* | A-------D | A-------D | A-------D
* +-------------->X +-------------->X +-------------->Y
* XY_SKEW_FACTOR XZ_SKEW_FACTOR YZ_SKEW_FACTOR
*/
//#define SKEW_CORRECTION
#if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION)
// Input all length measurements here:
#define XY_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746
#define XY_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746
#define XY_SIDE_AD 200
// Or, set the default skew factors directly here
// to override the above measurements:
#define XY_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0
//#define SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z
#if ENABLED(SKEW_CORRECTION_FOR_Z)
#define XZ_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746
#define XZ_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746
#define YZ_DIAG_AC 282.8427124746
#define YZ_DIAG_BD 282.8427124746
#define YZ_SIDE_AD 200
#define XZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0
#define YZ_SKEW_FACTOR 0.0
#endif
// Enable this option for M852 to set skew at runtime
//#define SKEW_CORRECTION_GCODE
#endif
</code></pre>
| 21633 | Anet A8 Auto Bed Levelling - Auto home not centring with new Marlin 1.1.9 config | <p>Your config looks fine for the most of the definitions that have been compared to the known settings when using a probe.</p>
<p>You should be aware that with <code>#define Z_SAFE_HOMING</code> you define that the sensor is in the middle of the bed, however, the nozzle is then offset from the middle of the bed per the <code>#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -43</code> and <code>#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -4</code> defined offsets.</p>
<p>So, when <code>G28</code> is commanded, the carriage will move to (110, 110) for the probe which is displayed as (110 - -43, 110 - -4) = (153, 114) for the nozzle.</p>
<p>So there is nothing wrong with the configuration, it works as it should.</p>
|
2023-11-21T12:53:22.077 | |creality-ender-3|input-shaping|resonance-compensation|mriscoc|vibration-compensation| | <p>I'm looking into Input Shaping (Resonance Compensation) to compensate for vibration on an Ender 3 V2. I found the "Official Creality G-Sensor ADXL345 Vibration Compensation Sensor for Sonic Pad 3D Printed Smart Pad" which I guess, unlike the name suggests, can work on more than just the Sonic Pad.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l48Mas.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l48Mas.png" alt="Official Creality G-Sensor ADXL345 Vibration Compensation Sensor for Sonic Pad 3D Printed Smart Pad" /></a></p>
<p>I have a fairly stock Creality Ender 3 V2 printer running the Marlin based mriscoc firmware. Marlin Firmware supports <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M593.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Input Shaping (M593)</a> and so does the <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Input-Shaping-(IS)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc firmware</a>.</p>
<p>The Marlin documentation states:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It’s not always easy to attach an accelerometer to most printer boards, so Marlin doesn’t provide accelerator-based tuning. If you have that information you can use it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The mriscoc firmware documentation, which is specifically for Ender 3 V2 and Marlin based, states:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The IS parameters are the resonance frequencies of your printer’s X and Y axes, which <strong>can be measured using an accelerometer</strong> or a test print</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I'm thinking to buy the bare ADXL345 accelerometer. Is it possible to wire this up, and if so, how do I wire this accelerometer to my 4.2.2 board? I guess I can than continue by simply flashing the IS enabled firmware of mriscoc to get it supported in the firmware.</p>
| 21660 | How to physically wire a (ADXL345) accelerometer for Input Shaping (Resonance Compensation) support on for a Ender 3 V2 printer? | <p>Currently Marlin does not provide a way to get the resonance frequencies by using an accelerometer and possibly never will because of the lack of resources in current printer boards. You can get those values by other medium and save them as Marlin IS parameters. It is possible to estimate the resonance frequencies by test prints.</p>
|
2023-11-21T13:03:28.320 | |marlin|input-shaping|resonance-compensation|vibration-compensation| | <p>In addition to my question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21660/how-to-physically-wire-a-adxl345-accelerometer-for-input-shaping-resonance-co">How to physically wire a (ADXL345) accelerometer for Input Shaping (Resonance Compensation) support on for a Ender 3 V2 printer?</a>.</p>
<p>Does an accelerometer in a Marlin-based Input Shaping setup compensate in real-time (during print) for vibration? Or is it a one time (for example before print) measurement to determine a level of vibration and use that as the compensation scheme during a print, as in "not adapting to unexpected vibration"? Similar to how bed leveling is used.</p>
<p>If it does not do real-time compensation, what is the benefit of having an accelerometer compared to doing Input Shaping test prints instead?</p>
| 21661 | Does an accelerometer in a Marlin-based Input Shaping setup compensate in real-time (during print) for vibration? | <p>Input shaping in 3D printers is typically implemented prior to the actual printing operation, not in real-time. It's based on the known characteristics of the printer rather than dynamic adjustments made during printing. This requires to be set-up and determined before printing. The printer's firmware is where you can define input-shaping.</p>
<h3>3D printer firmware based input shaping</h3>
<p>The resonant frequencies of the printer are determined through test prints and input into the firmware. The firmware then automatically applies the necessary adjustments to the motion commands during the printing process (it reads the G-code and applies the algorithms on motion changes). This is still not real-time adjustment; it's a predefined modification based on the printer's known characteristics.</p>
<h3>Real-time or not?</h3>
<p>Input shaping is not a real-time control system that dynamically adjusts to changing conditions during a print. Instead, it's a method of optimizing the printer's motion commands based on its known mechanical properties and behavior (hardware determined). Why not real-time? Real-time control for input shaping in 3D printing would be complex and would require additional sensors and processing capabilities (controller board). The printer would need to continuously monitor its own vibrations and adjust its movements on the fly, which is not typically feasible with current consumer level 3D printing technology.</p>
|
2023-11-21T13:28:42.003 | |marlin|input-shaping|resonance-compensation|vibration-compensation| | <p>The Marlin Firmware supports Input Shaping (M593) as described in the <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M593.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin documentation</a> writing:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Set the Input Shaping damping factor and/or frequency (in Hertz) <strong>for axes that support it.</strong></p>
</blockquote>
<p>But the parameters shown under the Usage section suggest only axis X and Y are supported? It is possible to use input shaping (in Marlin) to compensate vibration on all X, Y and Z axes?</p>
| 21662 | Does Marlin input shaping compensate vibration on all X, Y and Z axes? | <p>No, as of December 2023, Z-axis Input Shaping is not possible in Marlin firmware. Marlin only supports Input Shaping on the X and Y axes.</p>
<p>There is a <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/26474" rel="nofollow noreferrer">feature request on GitHub</a> to implement Z-axis Input Shaping on Marlin.</p>
|
2023-11-22T22:49:02.310 | |3d-models|slicing|creality-ender-2| | <p>I have an odd issue with Creality Slicer 4.8 (Cura slicer?)</p>
<p>It wants to cut up my model and add surfaces that do not exist in the model.</p>
<p>These screenshots are without infill or support:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsvzM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsvzM.png" alt="Head displaying cut surface" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIX6P.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIX6P.png" alt="layer 824" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9d7u.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9d7u.png" alt="layer 821" /></a></p>
<p>Wire mesh view from behind and to the left (Blender)
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySkGP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ySkGP.png" alt="Blender wire mesh" /></a></p>
<p>I assume that since this model is a base 3D model from a game with the body, clothes, hairstyle, etc put on top, that I have overlooked something which is being interpreted as a surface break. I had a similar problem with the dress and boots, which I solved by tediously removing the inner details.</p>
<p>I have removed the back part of the "skull" and the top of the neck, trying to closed any gaps.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHjp5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JHjp5.png" alt="solid and wireframe - blender" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://test.stevnsvig.com/priestess_4_8.stl" rel="nofollow noreferrer">STL</a></p>
<p>How do I fix this issue?</p>
<p>I am printing on a Creality Ender 2.</p>
| 21668 | Issues with slicer creating gaps with surfaces that are not in the model | <h2>Some Surfaces are likely inverted - which needs to be made visible.</h2>
<p>To see that in blender, you need to turn on "surface normals". The blue spikes should go out of the surfaces, showing the item is properly aligned.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPihm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPihm.png" alt="position of surface normals in edit mode" /></a></p>
<p>To flip those surfaces and make all show into the same direction, follow for example this answer <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11013/slicer-is-adding-additional-floor-bed/14309#14309">Slicer is adding additional floor bed</a> - the relevant part for it here:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Enter Edit mode</li>
<li><code>A</code> to select everything</li>
<li><code>ALT</code> + <code>N</code> to recalculate normals</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>Another way to get the normals displayed is:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li><code>N</code> then under <code>Mesh Display > Normals</code> hook <code>Faces</code></li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
|
2023-11-24T12:41:17.290 | |extrusion|nozzle|pressure-advance|pressure-prediction|pressure| | <p>I'm exploring the concept of Pressure Advance and its ability to predict and adjust pressure changes in the extruder. The image below shows the effects of Pressure Advance:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K6udfl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K6udfl.png" alt="Pressure Advance aims to make printed lines more consistent" /></a></p>
<p>Source: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3yK0lJ8TWM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Teaching Tech via YouTube</a></p>
<p>Since there are no pressure measurements performed, how does Pressure Advance algorithmically anticipate these pressure variations without real-time pressure data? Which underlying principles are used to estimate the pressure in advance?</p>
| 21672 | How does pressure advance predict pressure without having actual pressure data? | <p>Short answer: <strong>by calibration</strong>.</p>
<p>Expanding on this short answer: <strong>pressure advance</strong> (or also called "linear advance") can be used to compensate for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder system. There are at least three sources of elasticity, the filament in a Bowden tube, the compression of the filament itself and the conversion of stepper rotation into torque itself lagging behind.</p>
<p>To counter affect an unwanted effect, you need a measure to change the unwanted effect so that after tuning the unwanted effect is gone.</p>
<p>The build-up of pressure in the nozzle (as a result of the springiness of the complete extrusion system causes the end of a line to over-extrude when movement slows or stops. Consequently, a lack of pressure at the beginning (first need to compress the filament) will result in a lack of filament at the nozzle.</p>
<p>In order to compensate, we use test prints, not sensors, in which the printer owner/tuner selects the best extruded line based on various settings of the pressure advance ratio. This works well, the extrusion system doesn't generally change over time unless you change the extruder, Bowden tube lengths, etcetera. There is no need for a sensor if you can determine how to counter the effect</p>
|
2023-11-24T17:58:45.553 | |3d-design|support-structures|prusaslicer| | <p>I have a tooth and a nerve inside it as two different objects.</p>
<p>The first picture is a molar tooth and the second image is a nerve inside the molar tooth.</p>
<p>My question is; how to generate supports so that the nerve inside the molar tooth will be printed out? (3D printing object inside another object)</p>
<p>The purpose of the aim is to use the printed object as patient education material. (Not for sale)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqflF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D model of a molar"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EqflF.png" alt="3D model of a molar" title="3D model of a molar" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXRXO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D model of a nerve inside of a molar"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXRXO.png" alt="3D model of a nerve inside of a molar" title="3D model of a nerve inside of a molar" /></a></p>
| 21674 | How do I 3D print an object inside another object? | <p>Similar to the answer above, but with a bit of a twist, it may be simpler to print both parts out as molds, and then to cast the parts that you want in two-part casting resin.</p>
<p>There are various tutorials on the internet that go into detail on how to do this.</p>
<p>For example: <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printed-molds-all-you-need-to-know-to-diy/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printed Molds Tutorial: How to DIY Your Own</a></p>
<p>Cura slicer even has a function for this. <a href="https://www.3dprintbeast.com/cura-mold-mode/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Mold mode</a> though I've never used it.</p>
<p>Use a Boolean function to create a cavity inside the tooth using the nerve as a cutter, and then export it. Then use Cura's mold function to create a mold of the tooth with the cavity inside it.</p>
<p>Create a resin tooth using clear resin, and then once that is set mix up some red resin and pour it into the cavity.</p>
<p>It's still using 3D printing, just not as you originally thought. IT may be easiest to do the tooth mold in two parts and then join them together.</p>
|
2023-11-27T10:27:04.893 | |prusa-i3|hotend|replacement-parts| | <p>My heaterblock is in a poor state after the heater malfunction. Before I'll buy a spare, I want to ask what material is the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/product/hotend-heaterblock-e3d/" rel="noreferrer">original block</a> made of? I don't see it on the product page.</p>
<p>Available spares and replacements are made of aluminum, brass, and copper, the latter two in plated and not plated versions. Original is, obviously, aluminum or plated something. Aluminum 3rd party replacements are 10 times cheaper than brass or copper ones. So, before I'll buy expensive one, I want to know if I really have to.</p>
<p>If original is aluminum, the supplemental question would be why to buy plated copper despite the price difference.</p>
| 21679 | What material is Prusa mk3s+ hotend heaterblock made of? | <h2>Aluminum</h2>
<p>At 9.20 grams (around 0.32 ounces) including screws and some soot I wasn't able to clean out, it can't be anything but aluminum.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/whrle.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/whrle.jpg" alt="Photo of the block on a scale" /></a></p>
|
2023-11-27T14:06:30.703 | |marlin|temperature|pid|mriscoc|mpc| | <p>The <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D9XwclutOo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">YouTube video 'PID vs MPC'</a> from Mark Misin Engineering Ltd perfectly demonstrates that Model Predictive Temperature Control (MPC) is more powerful than Proportional-Integral-Derivative (PID). Marlin implemented MPC as described in <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/model_predictive_control.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin's MPC documentation</a>. The Marlin-based firmware version I use also describes MPC in the <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Special_Configurations/releases/tag/MPC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc MPC documentation</a> and as follows:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>In the latest releases, MPC is being incorporated in all versions. MPC has proven to be a better algorithm for keeping the nozzle temperature stable, and it is also very useful for high-power heaters.<br><sub>Source: <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki#model-predictive-temperature-control-mpc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GitHub mriscoc repository for Ender 3 V2/S1</a></sub></p>
</blockquote>
<p>Since 3D printers, especially the heated parts (bed and nozzle), are relatively simple, with only simple control and sensor readings, why <strong>exactly</strong> is MPC a better choice than PID? And why is it more useful for 'high-power heaters'?</p>
| 21681 | Why is MPC better than PID for 3D printers, and (why) is it more useful for 'high-power heaters'? | <h3>Short answer</h3>
<p>PID reacts only <strong>after</strong> the temperature changes are registered by the sensor. MPC instead calculates the expected heat loss <strong>before</strong> the temperature actually changes and then applies heat to <strong>prevent</strong> those changes.</p>
<p>Here's a graph comparing PID and MPC, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ykqkta/model_predictive_control_mpc_in_marlin_is_a_game/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">created by Reddit user yelleck</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ykqkta/model_predictive_control_mpc_in_marlin_is_a_game/" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFpq2.png" alt="Graph showing the comparison of temperature regulation between PID and MPC" title="Graph showing the comparison of temperature regulation between PID and MPC" /></a></p>
<h3>Slightly derogatory answer</h3>
<p>PID and its modifications<sup>1</sup> is the duct-tape solution to the hotend temperature regulation problem<sup>2</sup>, and MPC is the engineering-PhD solution.</p>
<h3>Slightly longer answer</h3>
<p>MPC is a <strong>predictive</strong> model that compensates <strong>before the temperature actually changes</strong>. It calculates a physical heat model (effectively a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conductance_and_resistance" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thermal Resistance Circuit)</a>. Using this, it figures out how much heat energy (in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Joules</a>) will leave the hotend in a given time—through <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_radiation" rel="nofollow noreferrer">radiation</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convection_(heat_transfer)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">convection</a>, and extruded <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_capacity" rel="nofollow noreferrer">molten plastic</a>—and thus it knows exactly how much heat energy (again in Joules, or "Watts times Seconds") it has to put in to keep the temperature the same or move to a new temperature. The properties of this physical model (heat capacity, emissivity, etc.) can be obtained automatically with fairly good accuracy or looked up in a table (filament heat capacity per mm).</p>
<p>PID on the other hand is a <strong>reactive</strong> model that can only work <strong>after the temperature has already changed</strong>. It is more like a vigilant operator who stares <strong>only</strong> at the measured difference between the actual and desired temperature. If this temperature difference changes by just a tiny bit, or by a large step, it will immediately try to counteract that error by applying its three rules: P, I, and D.</p>
<p>The three PID coefficients can also be auto-tuned, but the results are... well, let's say there is a reason that there are dozens if not hundreds of PID tuning guides and forum questions out there. The coefficients are not linked to any distinct physical property of your hotend: The geometry, fan, heater power, silicone sock, and filament are all mushed together into three abstract numbers. So far I have tried a handful of times to get a deep, intuitive understanding of PID behavior and tuning, but have failed each time, and honestly, I don't consider it worth my time anymore. MPC just makes so much more sense.</p>
<p>The PID controller does not know or care why the temperature difference changed. It could be due to faster extrusion speed, switching on the fan, or a changed temperature setpoint (<code>M104</code>), for example. A PID controller has to react to any changes using the same rigid 3-rules-system<sup>1</sup>, although the three situations will in practice require different reactions. The MPC model, on the other hand, can figure out precisely how much each of those changes would influence the temperature and how it must react to prevent that.</p>
<p>So in a PID-based system, the temperature will always fluctuate a little <strong>by design</strong>. It <strong>needs</strong> those temperature changes in order to know how to react (unless you assume a completely static situation), because it is the only measurement it has. Consequently, a noisy temperature measurement, which looks like a lot of tiny, very fast changes, will force the PID controller to react to them, which leads to even more noticeable fluctuations because the system reacts to a change that isn't really there, since it's just noise. Alternatively, you could make it react slower to ignore these fast noise fluctuations, but that will make it... well... slower.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>And why is it more useful for 'high-power heaters'?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>As explained above, the PID controller must react to noise. With a high-power heater, even a tiny adjustment in the PWM can lead to a large increase in temperature. So the controller must react more slowly and carefully so as not to overshoot or oscillate. But by going more slowly, you are throwing away the main benefit of your high-power heater, namely: faster heating. Since MPC largely ignores noise, it won't oscillate. And since it knows your heater power in Watts and the exact amount of energy needed in Joules, it can just go "full throttle" when a higher temperature is needed<sup>3</sup>, stopping just in time to avoid overshooting. With a lower-powered heater, this problem is not so apparent, because it can only go slowly <strong>anyways</strong>.</p>
<hr />
<p><sup>1</sup> Yes, Marlin has <code>PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE</code>, <code>PID_EXTRUSION_SCALING</code>, and <code>PID_FAN_SCALING</code> to work around these issues. Those are hacky, ad-hoc solutions that try to do the same thing as MPC, but without a correct and complete physical model underneath. It's rather like adding more duct tape to the problem instead of stepping back, understanding the situation, and engineering a proper solution. Also, each of these functions has its own configuration parameters, which require separate tuning, while the auto-tuning in MPC can take care of all of them together (except filament heat capacity, which you can look up or calculate using physics instead). So if you consider using those additional PID features, you are essentially using MPC, but without a solid theoretical foundation, so you could as well go all the way and just use MPC instead.</p>
<p><sup>2</sup> Don't get me wrong: PID control is a flexible and well-established tool that is for many, many different tasks everywhere. Just like duct tape. But it is not the best tool for every job. A well-tuned PID can control the hotend temperature within a few degrees with little overshoot. It just wasn't specifically <strong>designed</strong> for this case, and thus it is outperformed by tools that <strong>were</strong>.</p>
<p><sup>3</sup> Marlin PID tries to do the same thing with <code>PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE</code>: it goes full power when the temperature difference is greater than this configured value. But with a high-power heater, this is an additional value that you have to tune. And after the PID kicks in, it needs some time to "wind up", which is another time during which the heater is not using its full potential. Also, the PID coefficients have to be tuned for different, partially conflicting goals: heating up quickly, avoiding overshoots, and avoiding oscillations. Again, all are lumped together into three abstract numbers with no physical meaning.</p>
|
2023-11-27T19:22:34.770 | |marlin|octoprint|usb|mriscoc|octopi| | <p>I'm using Cura Thumbnails using a plugin in Cura 5.5. Also, I use the Marlin-based mriscoc firmware on a Creality Ender 3 V2 with OctoPrint using OctoPi on a Raspberry Pi 4.</p>
<p>The firmware supposedly supports Thumbnail's preview when printed from an SD card, although I never tried. I can also view the Thumbnail in the OctoPrint UI. I print only using USB, controlled by OctoPrint on my Raspberry Pi.</p>
<p>Is it possible to send the Thumbnail to the printer LCD when a print is started from OctoPrint? In a similar way to how I have to add 'Show Progress on printer LCD' using a Cura plugin to follow the progress on the printer LCD when OctoPrint controls it.</p>
| 21683 | Is there a way to send a thumbnail to the printer LCD screen when printing over USB from OctoPrint? | <p>No, it is currently not possible to see the thumbnail in the printer screen if the G-code is being printed from a host like Octoprint. It is technically possible if the same G-code exists on the SD card or if the user can wait about 5 to 10 minutes for the binary jpeg image to be transferred to the SD card using the serial protocol. But I don't think it's worth the effort.</p>
|
2023-11-27T23:30:23.550 | |freecad| | <p>I've got a line with a point constrained to it. I would like to split my line at the point. The "Split Edge" tool will allow me to split the line anywhere but at that point. How can I split at line at an existing point?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYOb4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYOb4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 21686 | How can I split at line at an already existing point? | <p>I figured it out. Splitting at that specific point makes no sense because the split wouldn't be constrained to it at all. It would just be confusing.</p>
<p>The way to do this is to split somewhere else on the line, then constrain the split point to the existing point.</p>
|
2023-11-28T11:01:08.587 | |slicing|fdm|planar|non-planar|2.5d| | <p>Why do most slicers slice, and printers print in 2.5D, a planar method, rather than an actual 3D non-planar method? Doesn't this mainly come down to slicer software limitations rather than hardware limitations?</p>
<p>The results, in many cases, seem so much better. As shown below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqaOx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqaOx.jpg" alt="planar vs. non-planar prints" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pK2MW.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pK2MW.png" alt="planar vs. non-planar prints" /></a></p>
| 21691 | Why is 'planar-2.5D-slicing' most commonly used instead of 'non-planar-3D-slicing'? | <h2>Degrees of freedom</h2>
<p>2D has <strong>3</strong> degrees of freedom: X, Y, and a single rotation. As a result, you can describe any object in 2D by defining its center position and the rotation its surface start point is at and then referencing its shape.</p>
<p>3D has <strong>6</strong> degrees of freedom: X, Y, and Z position, and the rotation around each of the axes. Describing a 3D object is much more complicated.</p>
<p>Printers usually work with fully constrained rotations after the slicing. Traditional machining has limited Z accessibility without a 4th axis or using a 5-axis arm, and is limited in depth by the length of tooling.</p>
<h2>Slicing is a number of mathematical 2D processes</h2>
<p>When slicing, the slicer creates slices of a layer thickness. These then are interpreted by projecting to the center the smallest outline that would fit everywhere in the body and raising that outline to the center of the slice.</p>
<p>The stack of outlines is pretty much the outer surface reduced to a number of 2D objects. As placing the object already fixed its rotation, this leaves each outline to be solved for 2 variables for the toolpath: X and Y.</p>
<p>Just stacking all these results in a 3D object in the end.</p>
<h2>2.5D is a machining term</h2>
<p>Traditional machining creates 3D objects. However, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2.5D_(machining)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">machining with a 2.5D setup</a> does not create undercuts, as it only uses cylindrical tooling in most cases. This machining works by projecting the top item onto a plane and having at most one Z coordinate. That means one can easily create a "height map" of the item's surface.</p>
<p>The surfaces in nonplanar mapping are similar: the top examples have a lot of traditional 2D solved printing and a single top layer that follows a 2.5D machine path - which is, remind you, a simplified 3D coordinate system.</p>
<p>By only solving the last layer for X, Y, and Z path coordinates and banning undercuts, the solving time can be massively reduced, leading to faster slicing and allowing more time spent on refining the print paths. 2.5 D path solution algorithms also are much better explored from traditional machining, while true 3D machining requires the machining tool to move with all degrees of freedom.</p>
<h2>Layered 2.5 D</h2>
<p>Example (a) below breaks from traditional 2.5 D but can be reduced back to 2.5 D. Cutting the item in non-planar layers that follow the bottom geometry, that geometry can be solved as a 2.5 D machine path, and then the next layer is solved with an offset above that. However, cutting an item non-planarly can become very complicated, especially with more complex geometry than a simple arch.</p>
|
2023-11-29T11:46:07.370 | |heat-management|replacement-parts| | <p>Just as the title says - I'm in the need of a new heater block, and need to decide which one to buy. Plated copper is 10 times more expensive now, at least where I live (70 PLN <em>which is about 16 Euro or 18 USD</em> vs 7 PLN for aluminum), but in the scale of the cost of a printer, difference is negligible.</p>
<p>Copper has better thermal transfer, but it also has a greater thermal mass, so it heats up and cools down slower, but should be able to melt plastic faster. Or so it seems. I don't know how these theoretical properties translate into practical pros and cons for 3D printing.</p>
<p>I'm not looking for "buy this" answer. I'm looking for comparison that will let me, and future readers, make informed decision.</p>
| 21698 | What are the differences between aluminum and copper heater block and why would I use one vs another? | <p>I’ll add from my experience: for printing with composite materials, when using a tungsten carbide nozzle, if screwed into an aluminum hotblock (even when screwed hot), the nozzle quickly unwinds and then plastic leaks. In the case of a copper hotblock, a similar effect is not observed (apparently, this is explained by different thermal expansion of the materials).</p>
|
2023-11-29T21:19:31.243 | |3d-models|3d-design|openscad| | <p>I'm trying to modify this code to create a small 2 mm x 2 mm hole on the short side of the box (to fit 2 wires coming out of a battery):</p>
<pre><code>// Which one would you like to see?
part = "both"; // [box:Box only, top: Top cover only, both: Box and top cover]
// Size of your printer's nozzle in mm
nozzle_size = 0.35;
// Number of walls the print should have
number_of_walls = 3; // [1:5]
// Tolerance (use 0.2 for FDM)
tolerance = 0.2; // [0.1:0.1:0.4]
// Interior dimension X in mm
interior_x=70;
// Interior dimension Y in mm
interior_y=21;
// Interior dimension Z in mm
interior_z=17;
// interior corner radius in mm
radius=0; // [0:20]
// What fraction of the flat X side should the hook take up? (0 for no hook)
x_hook_fraction = 0.5; // [0:0.1:1.0]
// What fraction of the flat Y side should the hook take up? (0 for no hook)
y_hook_fraction = 0.5; // [0:0.1:1.0]
// What fraction of the hooks should have a slot behind them? (0 for no slot)
slot_length = 0.7; // [0:0.1:1]
/* Hidden */
$fn=100;
wall_thickness=nozzle_size*number_of_walls;
// Outer dimensions
x = interior_x + 2 * wall_thickness;
y = interior_y + 2 * wall_thickness;
z = interior_z + 2 * wall_thickness;
hook_thickness = 3 * nozzle_size;
top_cover_wall_thickness = hook_thickness + wall_thickness;
y_hook_length = (y - 2 * radius) * y_hook_fraction;
x_hook_length = (x - 2 * radius) * x_hook_fraction;
module box_interior () {
offset(r=radius) {
square([interior_x-2*radius, interior_y-2*radius], center=true);
}
}
module box_exterior () {
offset(r=wall_thickness) {
box_interior();
}
}
module bottom_box () {
difference(){
// Solid box
linear_extrude(z-wall_thickness){
box_exterior();
}
// Hollow out
translate([0,0,wall_thickness]) linear_extrude(z){
box_interior();
}
left_slot();
rotate([180,180,0]) left_slot(); // right slot
front_slot();
rotate([180,180,0]) front_slot(); // back slot
}
left_hook(); // left hook
rotate([180,180,0]) left_hook(); // right hook
front_hook(); // front hook
rotate([180,180,0]) front_hook(); // back hook
}
module left_hook () {
translate([(x-2*wall_thickness)/2,-y_hook_length/2,z-wall_thickness]) rotate([0,90,90]) {
base_hook(y_hook_length);
}
}
module front_hook () {
translate([-x_hook_length/2,-y/2+wall_thickness,z-wall_thickness]) rotate([90,90,90]) {
base_hook(x_hook_length);
}
}
module base_hook (hook_length) {
difference(){
linear_extrude(hook_length){
polygon(points=[[0,0],[2*hook_thickness,0],[hook_thickness,hook_thickness]]);
}
translate([hook_thickness, hook_thickness, 0]) rotate([45,0,0]) cube(2*hook_thickness, center=true);
translate([hook_thickness, hook_thickness, hook_length]) rotate([45,0,0]) cube(2*hook_thickness, center=true);
}
}
module left_slot () {
slot_length = y_hook_length*slot_length;
epsilon=2; // ensure it definitely protrudes
translate([x/2+epsilon,-slot_length/2,z]) rotate([0,90,90]) {
cube([2*hook_thickness, wall_thickness+epsilon, slot_length]);
}
}
module front_slot () {
slot_length = x_hook_length*slot_length;
epsilon=2; // ensure it definitely protrudes
translate([-slot_length/2,-y/2-epsilon,z]) rotate([90,90,90]) {
cube([2*hook_thickness, wall_thickness+epsilon, slot_length]);
}
}
module right_groove () {
translate([-tolerance/2+(x-2*wall_thickness)/2,-y_hook_length/2,wall_thickness+hook_thickness*2]) rotate([0,90,90]) linear_extrude(y_hook_length) {
base_groove();
}
}
module front_groove () {
translate([-x_hook_length/2,-y/2+wall_thickness+tolerance/2,wall_thickness+hook_thickness*2]) rotate([90,90,90]) linear_extrude(x_hook_length){
base_groove();
}
}
module base_groove () {
polygon(points=[[0,0],[0, -1], [2*hook_thickness, -1],[2*hook_thickness,0],[hook_thickness,hook_thickness]]);
}
module top_cover () {
// Top face
linear_extrude(wall_thickness) {
box_exterior();
}
difference(){
// Wall of top cover
inset = wall_thickness + tolerance/2;
linear_extrude(wall_thickness+hook_thickness*2){
offset(r=-inset) {
box_exterior();
}
}
// Hollow out
translate([0,0,wall_thickness]) linear_extrude(z){
offset(r=-wall_thickness*2) {
offset(r=-inset) {
box_exterior();
}
}
}
right_groove();
rotate([180,180,0]) right_groove();
front_groove();
rotate([180,180,0]) front_groove();
}
}
// left_hook();
print_part();
module print_part() {
if (part == "box") {
bottom_box();
} else if (part == "top") {
top_cover();
} else if (part == "both") {
both();
} else {
both();
}
}
module both() {
translate([0,-(y/2+wall_thickness),0]) bottom_box();
translate([0,+(y/2+wall_thickness),0]) top_cover();
}
</code></pre>
<p>I've tried something like this but it doesn't work:</p>
<pre><code>// Adding a hole to the short side of the box
translate([interior_x / 2, interior_y - hole_size / 2, interior_z / 2])
cube([hole_size, hole_size, interior_z], center=true);
</code></pre>
| 21703 | How to add a 2x2 mm hole to a SCAD file? | <p>You can use the <code>difference()</code> function in OpenSCAD to subtract one or more 3D shapes from another. Source: <a href="https://www.openscad.info/index.php/2020/05/14/difference/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The documentation for the difference() function</a>.</p>
<p>For reference, your code already does that several times. Something like this:</p>
<pre><code>module bottom_box () {
difference(){
// Existing code ...
// Subtract the hole
translate([hole_position_x, hole_position_y, hole_position_z])
cube([hole_size, hole_depth, hole_size], center=true);
}
// Rest of the code ...
}
</code></pre>
<h3>Two cube examples</h3>
<p>Below are two examples of a cube with and without a hole (in the bottom) that, for testing, can be rendered in your browser on <a href="https://openscad.cloud/openscad/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">openscad.cloud</a>:</p>
<h4>1. Model without a hole</h4>
<pre><code>cube_size = 20;
module simple_cube() {
cube(cube_size);
}
simple_cube();
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXxbJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXxbJ.png" alt="model without a hole" /></a></p>
<p>Example of <a href="https://openscad.cloud/openscad/?&sharedFileLink=W3sibmFtZSI6Im1haW4uc2NhZCIsInR4dCI6ImN1YmVfc2l6ZSA9IDIwO1xubW9kdWxlIHNpbXBsZV9jdWJlKCkge1xuICAgIGN1YmUoY3ViZV9zaXplKTtcbiAgICB9XG4gICAgc2ltcGxlX2N1YmUoKTsifV0=" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a model without a hole on openscad. cloud</a>.</p>
<h4>2. Model with a hole</h4>
<pre><code>cube_size = 20;
hole_size = 2;
module cube_with_hole() {
difference() {
cube(cube_size);
translate([cube_size / 2, cube_size / 2, 0])
cube([hole_size, hole_size, cube_size], center=true);
}
}
cube_with_hole();
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOBew.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOBew.png" alt="model with a hole" /></a></p>
<p>Example of a <a href="https://openscad.cloud/openscad/?&sharedFileLink=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" rel="nofollow noreferrer">model with a hole in the bottom on openscad. cloud</a>.</p>
|
2023-11-30T09:30:55.337 | |slicing|thumbnail| | <p>I use the <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/UltimakerFormatPackage/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cura Thumbnails plugin</a> to create and embed thumbnails in my G-code to view them using OctoPrint or my printer LCD. However, I recently found much higher quality Thumbnails that were generated using <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fast_approximate_anti-aliasing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">fast approximate anti-aliasing (FXAA)</a>. I was wondering if there is a way to enable or use another tool (slicer) to embed higher-quality thumbnails that were generated using anti-aliasing methods such as FXAA. For example, as generated by the tool <a href="https://github.com/unlimitedbacon/stl-thumb/releases" rel="nofollow noreferrer">unlimitedbacon/stl-thumb</a> as shown below:</p>
<h3>An example of thumbnails generated with that tool:</h3>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u5SjE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u5SjE.png" alt="example of generated thumbnails with st-thumb tool" /></a></p>
<h3>An example of a thumbnail generated without and with FXAA:</h3>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3I8L2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3I8L2.png" alt="example of thumbnail generated without FXAA and with FXAA" /></a></p>
| 21705 | Are there any slicers that use anti-aliasing (such as FXAA) for higher quality thumbnail generation? | <p>As of May 2023, Cura is working on it as described in <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7447" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Github issue Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7447</a>. One <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7447#issuecomment-1056931716" rel="nofollow noreferrer">user suggests</a> the use of the spatial anti-aliasing method <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supersampling" rel="nofollow noreferrer">supersampling anti-aliasing (SSAA)</a> instead.</p>
|
2023-11-30T12:56:20.580 | |creality-ender-3|automatic-bed-leveling|z-offset|sensors| | <p>The Creality Ender 3 V3 SE, apart from auto bed leveling (ABL), also has a way to calculate the Z-offset automatically. A feature I didn't hear about before.</p>
<p>According to a <a href="https://youtu.be/EL8ehEYPTCk?si=zBleJJzLwV7a9PKw&t=312" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Maker's Muse video</a>, it's based on a force sensor as shown below.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdXDc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdXDc.png" alt="'Force Sensor' in Creality Ender 3 V3 SE" /></a></p>
<p>How does this concept work? How can a force sensor automatically determine the Z-offset?</p>
| 21708 | How can a force sensor automatically determine the Z-offset? | <p>The Z-offset is the distance between the nozzle and the triggerpoint, see e.g. <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16605/">this answer</a> of question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how">Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?</a>.</p>
<p>A "force sensor" as called in the question is actually a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge" rel="nofollow noreferrer">strain guage</a>; deflection will cause a different electrical resistance which is a measure for the applied stress. These sensors are frequently found in aircraft to measure the strains (as a measure for the stresses) in the structure, e.g. wing spars, (pressure) bulkheads or frames, as part of structural health monitoring (e.g. to compare to the design spectrum of the OEM).</p>
<p>In theory the Z-offset with a strain gauge is non existent if you use such a sensor for <a href="/a/18452/">ABL</a> except that you may need to corect for possible flexing of the bed or the hot end assembly and a paper offset (default distance to allow better flow and adhesion).</p>
<p>However, the system referenced in the question is an <a href="https://www.creality.com/products/creality-ender-3-v3-se" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ender 3 V3 SE</a> with an ABL system and a strain gauge.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Relax, Let Auto Leveling Do It</strong><br>
Leveling is the basis of print quality.
Ender-3 V3 SE features a CR Touch sensor for auto leveling
and a strain sensor for auto Z offset.
No need to turn screws or pull a paper.
Just lie back and enjoy the print success.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This implies that the strain gauge is not used to determine the <a href="/a/15488/">level of the bed</a>, instead the surface of the build plate is scanned/mapped by the CR Touch (BLTouch clone) sensor. In order to map this scanned surface to the correct height, a test point with the nozzle hitting the buildplate (and as such causing the strain gauge to measure that the nozzle touches the surface) is used to set the Z-offset based on this measurement. Without such a strain gauge, the printer user needs to do that manually; this is the process where you set the offset using the <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M851</code></a> G-code command. Instead of the user lowering the nozzle until a piece of paper can be dragged with a little resistance to determine the "true zero position" of the Z-axis, the triggering of the strain gauge and the automatic handling by the Creality software will do that for you.</p>
<p>To explain the automatic calculation of the Z-offset in this printer is that the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE first calibrates the Z-offset with the help of a pressure of strain-gauge sensor mounted under the front left corner of the print bed, there is a strain-gauge sensor which can detects deformation on the structure that is mounted on.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqQso.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IqQso.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Knowing the exact position of the nozzle and the position (height) of the trigger point of the leveling sensor, the Z-offset can be calculated and set. That height is then put into the <code>M851</code> G-code command to set the Z-offset. This is exactly how you would do this manually other than you usually use a sheet of paper or a feeler gauge between the nozzle and the bed. The automatic calculation will surely make a correction for that (e.g. there could be play in the nozzle assembly).</p>
|
2023-12-01T03:34:02.990 | |resin|sla| | <p>I'm looking for an SLA resin that's electrically conductive. But, there don't seem to be any DIY or cheap formulations for electrically conductive resin.</p>
<p>If it were easy to do, we'd all be making circuits with electrically conductive resin. So I think that level of conductivity is probably not going to be available for a while. And I guess beyond the scope of this question. Likewise, a resin that was conductive enough for electroplating is also beyond the scope of this question.</p>
<p>A guy on YouTube mixed 5% graphite with resin and got 1.4 MΩ on his multimeter when the electrodes were placed about 2 cm apart. This is useful for electrostatic discharge but not much else. I'd like something more conductive than that.</p>
<p>I would like something similar to ProtoPasta conductive PLA, which has about 400-2000 Ω of resistance when you measure it 2 cm apart on a multimeter. It's not that good, but it's enough for a touch screen or button, for example. Someone on Reddit mentioned that people had formulated this before, but I can't find any evidence of that. At least, not with SLA resin - just that FDM stuff.</p>
<p>I even tried my hand at this a few months ago. I mixed some kind of generic resin with chopped carbon fibers, but it was kind of weird. The chopped fibers stuck out the edges of the final print, and were never really spread around that well. It was conductive but highly <strong>ansiotropic</strong>. It also looked horrible. The fibers clumped together in the uncured (and cured) resin, and it was not possible to keep them well-dispersed in the mixture throughout the print.</p>
<p>Does anyone have a good 1) cheap supplier or 2) cheap & simple DIY formulation for creating this kind of resin?</p>
| 21712 | Are there any electrically-conductive SLA resins? | <p>You could just use conductive paint, it's under $20 usually for the basics.</p>
<p>Bareconductive is the only one I've used, worked well enough for my simple project. Other products might be better.</p>
|
2023-12-01T10:34:34.347 | |diy-3d-printer|automation|z-offset| | <p>In addition to the question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21708/how-can-a-force-sensor-automatically-determine-the-z-offset">How can a force sensor automatically determine the Z-offset?</a>.</p>
<p>Is there any well-documented 'auto z-offset' (DIY) upgrade available for 3D printers? I'm particularly interested in using a strain gauge and upgrading the Creality Ender 3 V2. But examples for adding this capability, using other methods or to other printers are also welcome because I can modify it.</p>
| 21714 | Is there any well-documented 'auto z-offset' (DIY) upgrade available for 3D printers? | <p>It's not a common thing because it's usually something you do once and then it works for years without need to touch it, and I don't know of generic <em>upgrades</em> that provide <em>just</em> that in conjunction with whichever probe you have.</p>
<p>Bambu X-1 Carbon does it automatically with a piezzo sensor for a rough estimate and then using its lidar to analyze baby-stepped lines on the build plate to find the perfect Z height. This is not something to implement in any printer though.</p>
<p>The Prusa Mk4 approach is much more viable: it uses a load cell sensor in the extruder to find the moment the nozzle presses into the bed. I'm pretty sure this can be done with a strain gauge just as well, thing is they don't produce a neat binary on/off, just analog signal in form of varying resistance. You'd likely need a small microcontroller with an ADC input to read the gauge and convert that to binary On/Off on the Z axis input. And you'd still need to add (small, fixed) Z offset to get the height of the nozzle touching the bed as opposed to pressing into it.</p>
<p>I'm not aware of any ready-made solutions that do this, but it should be a project well within skill range of a hobbyist.</p>
|
2023-12-02T13:56:38.753 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch|mriscoc|crtouch| | <p>I have two Creality Ender 3 V2 printers with a version 4.2.2 board. One printer has the official CRTouch, and one is nearly original without a probe. I found a similar product, a DIY project called <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BFPTouch</a>, and I have almost all the parts needed to make it.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV3lo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV3lo.png" alt="BFPTouch" /></a></p>
<p><sup>Model and photo source: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890290/files" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse.com</a></sup></p>
<p>I use the Marlin-based <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc firmware</a> on both printers. Version <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20231202/Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-20231202.bin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ender3V2-422-MM-MPC-20231202.bin</a>, and on my printer with the CRTouch, I use the <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20231202/Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-MPC-20231202.bin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ender3V2-422-BLTUBL-MPC-20231202.bin</a> version.</p>
<p>Is the BFPTouch interchangeable with the CRTouch, like the BLTouch and CRTouch are? Is the wiring to the board the same, and would it suffice to use the <code>BLTUBL</code> firmware version of mriscoc that I've mentioned without further altering Marlin?</p>
| 21726 | Is the BFPTouch interchangable with the BLTouch for mriscoc firmware without custom changes to Marlin? | <p>No, it is not interchangeable without changing the configuration of the firmware. These sensors do not require you to set the <code>BLTOUCH</code> directive, so this must be in your configuration:</p>
<pre><code>//#define BLTOUCH
</code></pre>
<p>For the CR Touch this directive is required.</p>
<pre><code>#define BLTOUCH
</code></pre>
<p>I am building the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4661556" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tiny Touch</a> an even smaller version of the BFPTouch, in fact it is a derivative! In the last link you find <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/nxm865/guide_for_bfptouch_on_ender_3_v2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">instructions</a> to configure the probe, which redirects to the setup of the BFPTOUCH.</p>
|
2023-12-02T18:50:09.257 | |creality-ender-3|firmware|lcd-screen|mriscoc| | <p>I thought I had two identical Ender 3 V2 printers, the main board in both is v4.2.2 but it turns out they came with a different LCD screen.</p>
<p>I flashed the firmware on both printers to <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc firmware</a> and tried to also flash both LCD screens.</p>
<h3>DWIN</h3>
<p>The printer with the DWIN screen worked fine, everything went smooth and instead of the original blue, flat GUI, I now look at a colorful GUI something like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PBG07.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PBG07.jpg" alt="mriscoc firmware GUI" /></a></p>
<h3>DACAI</h3>
<p>On the other printer that I identified as a DACAI LCD as per <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-update-the-display" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc instructions documented</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BV6Fm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BV6Fm.jpg" alt="DACAI LCD photo" /></a></p>
<p>I then flashed the firmware and the <code>private</code> folder separately, as shown below, in the end you can see it fails to load. Not shown on the video but if I rotate the knob, the buttons appear on top of the load screen:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nt8h2.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nt8h2.gif" alt="failed DACAI LCD firmware upgrade" /></a></p>
<p>After rebooting I see this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZC2C.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aZC2C.gif" alt="failed DACAI LCD firmware upgrade" /></a></p>
<p>I am able to view a test thumbnail on screen, as provided in the documentation and shown below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSbH4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSbH4.jpg" alt="thumbnail preview on Ender 3 V2
using mriscoc firmware" /></a></p>
<p>But I expect the same colors and icons as on my DWIN screen, did I miss something?</p>
<p>I made sure the right cluster size was used when formatting, I tried three different SD cards and two different SD card readers, as well as unmounting from PC before removing it.</p>
<p>How to successfully flash a DACAI LCD screen of an Ender 3 V2 to achieve the same as on the DWIN LCD?</p>
| 21729 | How to successfully flash a DACAI LCD screen of a Creality Ender 3 V2? | <p>The process as shown in the question was all performed correctly and successfully however, simply the wrong icon set was used. The documentation isn't very clear and I should have personally documented this better when I did it months ago.</p>
<p><em>For flashing the LCD screen, the SD card will be placed in the SD card slot on the back of the LCD screen, not the printer slot.</em></p>
<p>This is what fixed it:</p>
<ul>
<li>Clone the <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc Git repository</a> or <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/archive/refs/heads/Ender3V2S1-Released.zip" rel="nofollow noreferrer">download latest the zip</a>.</li>
<li>Open the folder <code>display assets</code></li>
<li>Open the folder <code>Giadej compilation</code> for the icons I intended to use and utilize the color LCD instead</li>
<li>Depending on the screen type, follow the instructions <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-update-the-display" rel="nofollow noreferrer">as documented here</a>:
<ul>
<li>For DWIN LCD copy only the folder <code>DWIN_SET</code> to the root of the SD</li>
<li>For DACAI LCD copy only the folder <code>private</code> to the root of the SD</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Also, it's required to have micro SD card of 8GB or smaller formatted explicitly as MBR, FAT32, and <strong>with a 4 KB sector size</strong>.</p>
<p>For the DACAI screen specifically, I also flashed another DACAI screen firmware, also available in mrisoc Git repo: <a href="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets/dacai_update.zip" rel="nofollow noreferrer">dacai_update.zip</a>. Place the <code>firmware.zlib</code> file in the root of the SD card and flash.</p>
<p>Repower the printer after flashing both firmware and private folder. To test if the firmware and screen work correctly you can place <a href="https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/Ender3V2S1-Released/slicer%20scripts/cura/SimpleCuraTest.gcode" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this test gcode</a> on <em>the printer SD card</em> to check if the thumbnail preview on the printer LCD is shown.</p>
<p>Result shown below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Hkk.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5Hkk.gif" alt="mriscoc firmware with Giadej theme on LCD screen" /></a></p>
|
2023-12-03T16:50:46.180 | |creality-ender-3|wiring|filament-sensor|sensors|runout-sensor| | <p>I'm building this simple DIY filament runout sensor for Ender 3 V2 based on this <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184729" rel="nofollow noreferrer">model from Thingiverse.com</a>. I am not sure about the wiring, it seems trivial, I probably need to use 'normally closed' (NC). Below is the result so far.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SDdn.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SDdn.gif" alt="DIY runout sensor without wires" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8I3Z.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8I3Z.jpg" alt="DIY runout sensor with wires" /></a></p>
<p>I found this schematic from <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neS7lB7fCww&t=1128s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a YouTube video</a> which uses a different sensor:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kj8mO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kj8mO.jpg" alt="schematic" /></a></p>
<p>Based on the switch I used and the schematics shown, I guess I need to connect only two wires as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>Switch NC to board Red 5V (most left pin of the connector in the schematic image)</li>
<li>Switch C to board White Signal (most right pin of the connector in the schematic image)</li>
<li>No connection to the second, black Grounding pin, as shown on the schematic image</li>
<li>No connection to the NO pin on the switch</li>
</ul>
<p>Is that wiring correct?</p>
<p>Lastly, I wonder how the connector is called that is used on the Creality v4.2.2 board, and if I need to use a transistor?</p>
| 21737 | How to wire a DIY filament runout sensor to a Creality v4.2.2 board? | <p>That’s a cool print for your filament runout sensor. I’m planning on doing this same mod to my Ender 3 V2 in the next week or two as well.</p>
<p>I’ve done a decent amount of research on how to implement this so hopefully I can answer some of your questions.</p>
<h2>Wiring</h2>
<p>I found this schematic of the V4.2.2 motherboard online.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1i4P.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Schematic drawing of the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 motherboard"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l1i4P.png" alt="Schematic drawing of the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 motherboard" title="Schematic drawing of the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 motherboard" /></a></p>
<p>Here is the pdf download link to the <a href="https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/files/7626788/1623133432-Creality422-Schematic-2.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ender 3 V2 v4.2.2 schematic</a> (clicking on the link immediately downloads the pdf).</p>
<p>It looks like for our motherboard (if you also have the V4.2.2), the pinout is:</p>
<ul>
<li>Left pin: Sensor Signal (‘S’)</li>
<li>Middle pin: Ground (’G’)</li>
<li>Right pin: Vcc (‘V’)</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZJF7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Upclose photo of the Run Out Sensor connection on a 4.2.2 motherboard with the three pins notated as S, G, and V"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZJF7.jpg" alt="Upclose photo of the Run Out Sensor connection on a 4.2.2 motherboard with the three pins notated as S, G, and V" title="Upclose photo of the Run Out Sensor connection on a 4.2.2 motherboard with the three pins notated as S, G, and V" /></a></p>
<p>Based on the schematic, the Sensor Signal pin is pulled HIGH. This means to trigger the sensor, you want to connect the Sensor Signal pin to Ground.</p>
<p>The wiring for the switch is:</p>
<ul>
<li>'C' pin on switch -> Sensor signal pin on motherboard</li>
<li>'NC' pin on switch -> Ground pin on motherboard</li>
</ul>
<p>The 'NO' pin on the switch is left unconnected.</p>
<p>When the filament runs out, the switch opens and the ‘NC’ pin is connected to the ‘C’ pin. This pulls the Sensor Signal pin on the motherboard to LOW, which is what triggers the printer to pause.</p>
<p>Here is a diagram of how the switch should be wired to the motherboard.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOfQl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a roller micro switch with drawn wiring to the Run Out Sensor on a 4.2.2 motherboard showing the 'C' switch pin going to the 'G' sensor pin and the 'NC' switch pin going to the 'S' sensor pin"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOfQl.jpg" alt="Photo of a roller micro switch with drawn wiring to the Run Out Sensor on a 4.2.2 motherboard showing the 'C' switch pin going to the 'G' sensor pin and the 'NC' switch pin going to the 'S' sensor pin" title="Photo of a roller micro switch with drawn wiring to the Run Out Sensor on a 4.2.2 motherboard showing the 'C' switch pin going to the 'G' sensor pin and the 'NC' switch pin going to the 'S' sensor pin" /></a></p>
<h2>Firmware</h2>
<p>You’ll also need to update the firmware on the motherboard. This isn’t too hard if you’ve never done it before.</p>
<p>I’d recommend installing the JyersUI firmware as detailed in the video:
<div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Qv_vVrnkAkI?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>Just follow along with the guide to install it. The Jyers firmware also has some really nice UI improvements. Check the video description for links to the firmware.</p>
<p>If you don’t want to go that route, or you if have the wrong kind of motherboard chip (see video), you can also download the official creality firmware to enable the filament runout sensor.</p>
<p>The link to the firmware list is here: <a href="https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Official Ender 3 V2 firmwares</a></p>
<p>I’m pretty sure the one you’ll want is:</p>
<p><code>Marlin-2.0.1-HW-4.2.2-mainboard-V1.1.2-Compatible with BLTouch and filament detection</code></p>
<p>I didn’t use the official firmware, and there aren’t any release notes (of course), so I’m only 90% sure that's the right one .</p>
<p>At any rate, it might be wise to check your current firmware and make sure you download that too. That way you can revert your printer to its original firmware, just in case something goes wrong.</p>
<h2>JWST connectors</h2>
<p>Finally, the connectors on this board are the very common JST connectors.
Here is a link to a relatively inexpensive JST connector Kit and crimping tool:
<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07RZSSTSJ" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Connector kit w/ crimp tool</a></p>
<p>It’s pretty easy to crimp and install the connectors yourself. Here is a quick video on how to do it: <div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jHfYzrSF4pY?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>If you’re good at soldering you could also just hard solder the switch to the board if you don’t want to buy the connectors and crimper. Although I’d recommend against it.</p>
<p>Hopefully that helps. Good luck :)</p>
<p>P.S. I'll post how mine turns out once I'm finished.</p>
|
2023-12-03T17:21:58.550 | |stepper-driver|stepper|sensors| | <p>Is there a method such as fetching data from to stepper motor drivers, that can <strong>automatically</strong> detect or count stepper motor skips or stepper motor stalling?</p>
<p>Preferably for a Creality Ender 3 V2 board v4.2.2, but any related information is welcome. If something like this exists, how does it work and what are common use cases or implementation of it?</p>
<p>The reason I am asking is because it is a performance indicator that could help to track or measure print consistency and quality.</p>
| 21738 | Can stepper motor skipping or stalling be detected automatically? | <h2>You seem to be looking for closed-loop stepper motors.</h2>
<p>Detection of stalling and skipping on open-loop (aka regular) steppers is possible - that's how Prusa mk3s+ finds home position without endstops*. But it is not reliable and precise - that's why Prusa firmware tests every axis a couple of times.</p>
<p>If quality matters, and you want to reliably detect stalls and skips during print, closed-loop motors are what you need. Per <a href="https://www.soyamotor.com/new_detail/nid/68655.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">one of the manufacturers description</a>, they signal back to the controller what they are doing, so that controller can correct for skips and stalls:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>On the contrary, NEMA17 closed loop stepper motor feedback signal, according to the signal stepper motor driver to take the corresponding action measures or signal feedback to PLC, by PLC to determine the next step of the program.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Open-loop steppers are much cheaper, so most manufacturers just massively over-spec their open-loop steppers to make them force their way thorough any obstacles like blobs of plastic, and not need to care about feedback signal, and pay for it. As far as I know, closed-loop steppers are not used in hobby or even entry business machines, cost of motors and controllers being prohibitive.</p>
<hr />
<p>* When the motor stalls, power draw changes. If your driver can monitor power draw, firmware can make educated guess about the stall.</p>
|
2023-12-04T22:50:22.197 | |pla|filament|recycling|terminology|rpla| | <p>I see mixed terms such as 'rPLA, Recycled PLA, Recycled rPLA' used by different filament producers without a clear explanation or a standard definition.</p>
<p>Does it all mean Recycled PLA, or is rPLA a different material?</p>
| 21748 | Does rPLA stand for Recycled PLA, or is it a different type of material? | <p>All brands and shops that I know of use rPLA name for recycled PLA. However, this is neither a chemical name abbreviation, like PLA, nor a naming standard that's enforced by any agency. Thus, every time you want to buy rPLA, you must check if it really means recycled PLA. Because it <em>can</em> mean something else and manufacturer won't break any laws by doing it.</p>
<p>Hopefully the name will solidify soon, and anyone who sells anything but recycled PLA as rPLA will risk getting sued for false advertising. But we'll have to wait for that.</p>
<p>Be aware that "up to 100% recycled material" means any non-zero number equal or lower than 100%. So 1% of recycled materials meets this declaration as well as 90%. Only when manufacturer gives straight number, or "at least" number, we can be sure that amount of recycled material is what we expect it to.</p>
|
2023-12-05T09:08:56.660 | |pla|material|recycling|filament-production|rpla| | <p>In addition to the question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/21748/36802">Does rPLA stand for Recycled PLA, or is it a different type of material?</a>.</p>
<p>Does PLA lose mechanical properties when it is being recycled into rPLA? If so, <strong>how often</strong> can it be recycled before being unusable for recycling? And how would filament manufacturers know or account for this? How would they know if I returned the new PLA or rPLA waste? What if, in theory, the same rPLA batch is sent back repeatedly for recycling?</p>
| 21752 | Does PLA lose mechanical properties when recycled, and if so, how often can it be recycled? | <p>Yes, recycled PLA loses mechanical properties.</p>
<p>According to Dr. D-Flo's excellent video on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXY1EygE4R8&t=1060s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Recycling 3D Prints and Waste plastic into Filament (PET & PLA)</a> it loses mechanical strength during every thermal cycle - i.e. when it is printed, when it is melted down for recycling, when it is next printed, etc.</p>
<p>Manufacturers account for this by mixing in "virgin" PLA. So "recycled PLA" is really a mix of recycled and new PLA. This will lessen the extent to which the recycled portion will affect overall strength of the result.</p>
<p>I do not know if/how manufacturers would account for how many thermal cycles the PLA you supply has been through.</p>
<p>If the mix of virgin/recycled PLA has more virgin than recycled, then it may not matter. If the mix favoured recycled then each batch would be worse than the one before. I suppose manufacturers can test a sample from the beginning of their re-extrusion, and if they find it too brittle (etc.) they can change the mix before continuing.</p>
|
2023-12-05T23:30:33.407 | |marlin|electronics|filament-jam|sensors|runout-sensor| | <p>I found two great designs for a DIY sensor that achieve both <strong>filament runout</strong> and <strong>filament jam</strong> detection in one unit.</p>
<p>A clever design that only uses one microswitch as follows:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZx6N.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament runout and jam sensor with one microswitch"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bZx6N.jpg" alt="Filament runout and jam sensor with one microswitch" title="Filament runout and jam sensor with one microswitch" /></a></p>
<p><sup>Source: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5165299" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse.com</a></sup></p>
<p>Another design using two microswitches, as follows:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xy9iz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament runout and jam sensor with two microswitches"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xy9iz.jpg" alt="Filament runout and jam sensor with two microswitches" title="Filament runout and jam sensor with two microswitches" /></a></p>
<p><sup>Source: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5158978" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse.com</a></sup></p>
<p>I am not sure about the reliability of either yet, and I initially liked the design with one more switch. Then I realized there was no way to distinguish what event occurred (runout <strong>or</strong> jam), so I plan to make the second two microswitch versions instead. However, how would I wire this in a way so that my Ender 3 V2 running Marlin, specifically <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">mriscoc firmware</a>, would be able to interpret both signals separately and interpret them as two distinguishable events so that the exact event is reported (runout or jam)?</p>
<p>Alternatively, I could wire it to my Raspberry Pi, since I always print from OctoPrint only, and implement it there instead. However, I'd prefer to wire it to the printer board and have the firmware handle it.</p>
<p>Lastly, in comparison to these two specific designs, would an encoder wheel approach add benefits other than runout and jam detection?</p>
<p>Suggestions for better designs or approaches are also welcome.</p>
| 21755 | How to distinguish filament runout and filament jam using a microswitch-based filament sensor in Marlin? | <h2>Blue design</h2>
<p>The blue design can only detect a lack of filament. It is boolean: Filament or No Filament.</p>
<h2>Pink design</h2>
<p>The pink design can have multiple states, combining two boolean values.</p>
<p>The right of the sensors is "Filament there".</p>
<p>The left is using a ramp. On pull along the ramp, the sensor is triggered once a certain amount of pull is overcome, either by pulling up, left or right. As a result of passing through the hole in the lever of known diameter. Any tangle or over thickness will act on the lever to the right and trigger the sensor, and so will strong yanking up or left, through those might self reset. As a result, this sensor will trigger a signal that could be called Tangle or No Tangle, or of course No Jam/Jam.</p>
<p>Your interpretation that there is no way to distinguish the results depends on one thing: that you put the sensors through a single loop back, for the effect of an AND gate.</p>
<div class="s-table-container">
<table class="s-table">
<thead>
<tr>
<th>Filament</th>
<th>Jam</th>
<th>Output of the Series</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Filament in</td>
<td>No Jam</td>
<td>Run</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Filament in</td>
<td>Jam</td>
<td>Stop</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>no Filament</td>
<td>No Jam</td>
<td>Stop</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>no Filament</td>
<td>Jam</td>
<td>Stop</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<p>The design is set up such, that the filament sensor shows connectivity on being pressed, while the jam sensor is connected in reverse: triggering it opens the loop. While the designer wired the two in parallel, they could also be connected in series for the same effect.</p>
<p>To overcome this design deficiency of only sending a stop message, you need to route the signal to your control board and distinguish the two signals. However, for all but the error message, the practical effect should be the same: the machine shall stop if either of the Stop conditions is triggered.</p>
<p>If you have other sensory equipment on the printer, you might quickly run into problems in that the number of free pins is usually extremely limited, so you might not have enough pins to route the signals separately.</p>
<h3>is tangle trigger separate a good idea?</h3>
<p>Now, is the additional requirement of pins and wiring a <strong>good</strong> idea when it comes to error handling? No.</p>
<p>In either detected case - no more filament or tangled filament - you need to stop printing and access the very same area to deal with the lack of feeding filament. Only in large operations, there is any reason to try and detect the two separately for logging purposes.</p>
|
2023-12-06T09:01:12.307 | |ultimaker-cura|g-code|prusaslicer|klipper| | <p>I've been using Klipper and Cura for a while now (somewhat new to 3D printing), and I notice whenever I import a new G-code file to Klipper, none of the Slicer settings from Cura display in the G-code files in Klipper. However, when I imported a G-code file from my friend (the PETG one) I noticed it showed up right away:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJ17D.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the File List from the web interface for klipper"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJ17D.png" alt="Screenshot of the File List from the web interface for klipper" title="Screenshot of the File List from the web interface for klipper" /></a></p>
<p>I looked at the difference in the G-code formats, and I noticed that the file sliced with Prusa had the settings in the bottom of the file in the below (truncated) format:</p>
<pre><code>;TYPE:Custom
; Filament-specific end gcode
; filament used [mm] = 5342.18
; filament used [cm3] = 12.85
; filament used [g] = 16.32
; filament cost = 0.45
; total filament used [g] = 16.32
; total filament cost = 0.45
; estimated printing time (normal mode) = 2h 49m 42s
; estimated printing time (silent mode) = 2h 50m 36s
; prusaslicer_config = begin
; avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0
; avoid_crossing_perimeters_max_detour = 0
; bed_custom_model =
; bed_custom_texture =
; bed_shape = 0x0,250x0,250x210,0x210
; bed_temperature = 90
; before_layer_gcode = ;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE\nG92 E0.0\n;[layer_z]\n\n
; between_objects_gcode =
; bottom_fill_pattern = monotonic
; bottom_solid_layers = 5
; bottom_solid_min_thickness = 0.5
; bridge_acceleration = 1000
; bridge_angle = 0
; bridge_fan_speed = 50
; bridge_flow_ratio = 1
; bridge_speed = 25
; cooling = 1
; cooling_tube_length = 5
; elefant_foot_compensation = 0.2
; external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0.45
; external_perimeter_speed = 25
; external_perimeters_first = 0
; extra_loading_move = -2
; extra_perimeters = 0
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; extrusion_width = 0.45
; fan_always_on = 1
; fan_below_layer_time = 20
; filament_colour = #FF8000
; filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
; filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
; filament_cooling_moves = 4
; filament_cost = 27.82
</code></pre>
<p>Whereas the G-code generated by cura has them in the below format:</p>
<pre><code>;End of Gcode
;SETTING_3 {"global_quality": "[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Filament_Sample-
;SETTING_3 PET-dev.1\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype =
;SETTING_3 quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_version = 22\\n\\
;SETTING_3 n[values]\\nadhesion_type = skirt\\nklipper_experimental_enable = Tru
;SETTING_3 e\\nklipper_ui_temp_support_enable = True\\nretraction_combing = nosk
;SETTING_3 in\\nsupport_enable = False\\nsupport_type = buildplate\\n\\n", "extr
;SETTING_3 uder_quality": ["[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Filament_Sample-PET
;SETTING_3 -dev.1\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = qua
;SETTING_3 lity_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nintent_category = default\\n
;SETTING_3 position = 0\\nsetting_version = 22\\n\\n[values]\\nbrim_gap = 0.17\\
;SETTING_3 nbrim_line_count = 14\\ninfill_enable_travel_optimization = True\\nin
;SETTING_3 fill_sparse_density = 100\\ninset_direction = outside_in\\nironing_en
;SETTING_3 abled = True\\nironing_flow = 5.0\\nironing_inset = 0.2\\nironing_mon
;SETTING_3 otonic = True\\nironing_pattern = zigzag\\nmaterial_flow = 90.0\\nret
;SETTING_3 raction_amount = 3.0\\nretraction_hop = 1.0\\nretraction_hop_enabled
;SETTING_3 = True\\nretraction_hop_only_when_collides = True\\nroofing_layer_cou
;SETTING_3 nt = 1\\nroofing_line_width = 0.2\\nroofing_material_flow = 75.0\\nro
;SETTING_3 ofing_pattern = lines\\nskin_monotonic = True\\nskin_overlap = 4.0\\n
;SETTING_3 speed_print = 100.0\\nsupport_angle = 65.0\\nsupport_conical_enabled
;SETTING_3 = True\\nsupport_interface_density = 20\\nsupport_skip_some_zags = Tr
;SETTING_3 ue\\ntop_bottom_pattern_0 = lines\\ntop_layers = 1\\nwall_line_count
;SETTING_3 = 4\\nwall_overhang_angle = 55.0\\nwall_overhang_speed_factor = 80.0\
;SETTING_3 \n\\n"]}
</code></pre>
<p>Prusa has them in a more sensible format, whereas Cura stores them in INI format, stored as strings in a JSON object, which is then stored as a G-code comment (which seems ridiculously overcomplicated)</p>
<p>I already have a bash/jq function I use to parse those comments from the Cura sliced G-code and display it to me, but I'm trying to find a way to have it done automatically while the G-code file is getting generated. I have looked at some plugins for Cura, but I didn't see one that applied to this.</p>
<p>I know I could possibly modify the <code>metadata.py</code> (Moonraker) to have it parse for the Cura style G-code comments, or even write a Cura plugin, but it occurred to me that I can't be the first one to have this issue. And I didn't find anything for it upon Googling it.</p>
<p><strong>The question</strong>: Does anyone have a simple workaround for this that doesn't require writing plugins or modifying existing Moonraker files?</p>
<p>And a bonus question: Why in the world would they store slicer settings nested in three different formats? Why?!</p>
<p><strong>TL;DR:</strong> Cura stores the print config in the G-code comments, but Klipper/Moonraker can't parse them due to the format. Is there a simple way around this? (aside from writing a plugin or modifying Moonraker files)</p>
<p>P.S. I do see that some plugins seem related to this but I don't see one that formats and saves the settings to the G-code file. They either just extract them from the G-code, or require you to execute a script every time (or even launch a Node server..)</p>
<h2>Update (Answer... Kinda)</h2>
<p>So after looking into the Moonraker python, I can see that there actually is a <a href="https://github.com/Arksine/moonraker/blob/master/moonraker/components/file_manager/metadata.py#L459" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><em>Cura</em> class</a> that extends <code>BaseSlicer</code> class, and it's what handles the comment parsing:</p>
<pre><code>class Cura(BaseSlicer):
def check_identity(self, data: str) -> Optional[Dict[str, str]]:
match = re.search(r"Cura_SteamEngine\s(.*)", data)
if match:
return {
'slicer': "Cura",
'slicer_version': match.group(1)
}
return None
# .. Truncated some rows..
def has_objects(self) -> bool:
return self._check_has_objects(self.header_data, r"\n;MESH:")
def parse_filament_weight_total(self) -> Optional[float]:
return regex_find_float(r";Filament\sweight\s=\s.(%F).", self.header_data)
def parse_filament_type(self) -> Optional[str]:
return regex_find_string(r";Filament\stype\s=\s(%S)", self.header_data)
def parse_filament_name(self) -> Optional[str]:
return regex_find_string(r";Filament\sname\s=\s(%S)", self.header_data)
# .. Truncated some rows..
def parse_nozzle_diameter(self) -> Optional[float]:
return regex_find_float(r";Nozzle\sdiameter\s=\s(%F)", self.header_data)
</code></pre>
<p>And if you look at the regex, it's looking for some config names like <strong>Filament weight</strong>, <strong>Filament name</strong>, <strong>Filament type</strong>, etc. But Cura stores it as just <strong>name</strong>, <strong>weight</strong>, and <strong>type</strong>, but puts it under a <code>[metadata]</code> section.</p>
<p>Also, the Cura-style metadata is all just concatenated into one string, which has a line return injected every 80 characters. This means that depending on the values, some of the <em><strong>names</strong></em> of the metadata items get truncated halfway through, and have another <code>;SETTING_3</code> injected as the prefix, which makes it somewhat of a nightmare to simply parse with RegEx.</p>
<p>I was trying to avoid having to modify any Moonraker code, but it looks like I'll just have to alter the Cura class to extract all lines that start with <code>;SETTING_3 </code>, then concatenate > JSON Parse > INI Parse.</p>
| 21759 | How can I get Cura's slicer settings to save into the G-code in a way that Moonraker/Klipper can read them? | <p>Not sure why I wasn't able to find this initially, but here's a <a href="https://files.fieldofview.com/cura/Replacement_Patterns.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">list of replacement strings</a> that can be used in the Start/End G-code settings of the machine/printer profile.</p>
<p>In my Machine profile settings, I inserted the below text at the top of the Start G-code section:</p>
<pre><code>; Cura/Material/Profile settings
;Layer Height: {layer_height}
;MINZ: {layer_height_0}
;Print Speed: {speed_print}
;first_layer_bed_temp: {material_print_temperature_layer_0}
;Nozzle diameter = {machine_nozzle_size}
;Filament id = {material_id}
;Filament type = {material_type}
;Filament name = {material_name}
;Filament brand = {material_brand}
;Filament amount = {filament_amount}
;Filament weight = {filament_weight}
;Filament cost = {filament_cost}
;Jobname = {jobname}
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
; ... Rest of my start G-code was here
</code></pre>
<p>And now, when I generate a new G-code file, it has the below data in the file:</p>
<pre><code>; Cura/Material/Profile settings
;Layer Height: 0.2
;MINZ: 0.2
;Print Speed: 30.0
;first_layer_bed_temp: 260.0
;Nozzle diameter = 0.4
;Filament id = generic_abs_175 #2
;Filament type = ABS
;Filament name = ASA
;Filament brand = iSANGHU
;Filament amount = [1.01]
;Filament weight = [3.013193642578125]
;Filament cost = [0.05423748556640625]
;Jobname = TN1-148_SHAFT_ADAPTOR
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
</code></pre>
<p>(Note: I had to save an ASA material as ABS because apparently, Cura thinks my printer profile isn't compatible with ASA, so it's saved as ABS. but that value is accurate to what's in the configs)</p>
<p>And it works fine in MoonRaker as well</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nweTg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the left-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nweTg.png" alt="Screenshot of the left-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List" title="Screenshot of the left-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Idqi.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the right-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Idqi.png" alt="Screenshot of the right-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List" title="Screenshot of the right-hand portion of MoonRaker's File List" /></a></p>
<p>Source: <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39519-how-to-access-material-type-eg-pla-petg-etc-from-cura-post-processing-plugin/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to access material type (eg PLA, PETG etc) from Cura post-processing plugin?</a></p>
|
2023-12-06T10:35:51.380 | |filament-sensor|sensors|filament-width|filament-diameter|width-sensor| | <p>I found this great DIY '<strong>filament diameter sensor</strong>' or '<strong>filament width sensor</strong>'. It is called <strong>In</strong>line <strong>Fi</strong>lament <strong>D</strong>iameter <strong>E</strong>stimator <strong>L</strong>owcost (InFiDEL), as shown below. The <a href="https://github.com/drspangle/infidel-sensor/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GitHub project</a> states:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>A cheap, yet precise filament diameter sensor, intended to compensate for filament diameter deviations in real-time.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRSc6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VRSc6.png" alt="InFiDEL filament diameter/width sensor" /></a></p>
<p><sup>Model source: <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/57154-infiDANK" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printables.com</a> or <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/infidel-inline-filament-diameter-estimator-lowcost-10-24" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Youmagine.com</a></sup></p>
<p>It can essentially be used for flow control. In a <a href="https://youtu.be/RYgdLPe_T0c?si=wqA6Yi6hHtA5MKFk&t=32" rel="nofollow noreferrer">YouTube video</a> the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@MadeWithLayers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">maker (Thomas Sanladerer)</a> says:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>... the firmware can then compensate for any differences in filament diameter and filament cross-sectional area essentially by adjusting the extrusion multiplier ...</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://youtu.be/RYgdLPe_T0c?si=Wa5b6zswdaoeG61r&t=443" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The video</a> also explains how three different sized drill bits are used to calibrate the measurement.</p>
<p>To my understanding, it uses a principle where a hall effect sensor measures magnetic strength that is translated into a voltage that reflects the diameter, such as 1.78 Volt for 1.78 mm. I plan to implement something like this, however, I don't know how Marlin implements this and I'd like to understand it first. The Marlin documentation does contain several G-codes for a filament width sensor, such as <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M405.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M405</a>, <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M406.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M406</a>, and <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M407.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M407</a>, but I cannot find anything about how Marlin implements this. Also, shouldn't the firmware know the distance between the nozzle and the filament width sensor to know when to compensate? The distance seems to be not implemented by Marlin entirely.</p>
<p><em>Lastly, I think that this sensor could also serve as a filament runout sensor by noting that the diameter is simply close to 0 mm.</em></p>
| 21760 | How does Marlin firmware use filament width sensor data for flow control? | <p>The Marlin firmware is ready for connecting such a filament sensor. You need to adjust the configuration (<a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration_adv.h</a>) to enable the <code>FILAMENT_WIDTH_SENSOR</code> definition (remove the <code>//</code> before <code>#define FILAMENT_WIDTH_SENSOR</code>):
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6DQp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Snippet of Configuration_adv.h"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z6DQp.png" alt="enter image description here" title="Snippet of Configuration_adv.h" /></a></p>
<p>The distance from measurement to melting chamber should and is taken into account.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>shouldn't the firmware know the distance between the nozzle and the filament width sensor to know when to compensate</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The firmware does do that. You can either set the distance inside the firmware compile-time (which is pretty safe as the distance doesn't change much unless you have a Bowden setup where you exchange the tube for a different length tube or use a tool changer/multiple tool heads with different tube lengths) or through G-code:</p>
<p><a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M405.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M405 D<cm></code></a> specifies that distance through G-code, otherwise the firmware set value is used:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nxq7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="M405 G-code usage"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nxq7.png" alt="enter image description here" title="M405 G-code usage" /></a></p>
|
2023-12-06T20:10:10.643 | |bed-leveling|bltouch|z-probe|automatic-bed-leveling|sensors| | <p>I just discovered automatic bed leveling (ABL) probes that only use a microswitch.</p>
<p>For example, the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3468254" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FreeABL</a> as shown below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTB2Rm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a FreeABL installed on an Ender 3"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTB2Rm.png" alt="Photo of a FreeABL installed on an Ender 3" title="Photo of a FreeABL installed on an Ender 3" /></a></p>
<p><sup>Source: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3468254" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse.com</a></sup></p>
<p>Or, the magnet mounted <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5320970" rel="nofollow noreferrer">KlackEnder</a> as shown below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ri46km.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D rendering of a KlackEnder bed leveling probe"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ri46km.png" alt="3D rendering of a KlackEnder bed leveling probe" title="3D rendering of a KlackEnder bed leveling probe" /></a></p>
<p><sup>Source: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5320970" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse.com</a></sup></p>
<p>Both use the simple concept of probing the bed using a microswitch instead of an optical or retractable touching probe, such as the popular BLTouch. However, since no measurement other than touch can be made, how reliable and accurate are such methods? Did someone ever run a <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M048.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Probe Repeatability Test (<code>M48</code>)</a> for such microswitch based automatic bed leveling probes, or have experience regarding its reliability?</p>
<p>For reference, a 10-probe <code>M48</code>-test using my CRTouch results in a deviation of 0.000750.</p>
| 21766 | How can microswitch-based automatic bed leveling probes be possibly reliable and accurate? | <p>I use them both for my Ender 3 home-against-bed and for my delta-calibration probe, and they work reasonably well. Of course, as noted in a comment by Fritz, you should remove the metal lever arm, as that <em>amplifies any error</em>, as well as introducing its own non-reproducibility through arm stiffness that may vary with temperature.</p>
<p>I forget the actual spread of values I get probing my delta, but my Klipper probe configuration has <code>samples_tolerance</code> set to 0.015 mm, meaning that, when it probes each point 5 times, it will start over if it gets measurements that differ by more than that amount, and normally it does not restart. However, with it previously set lower (probably 0.005 mm but I don't remember for sure), I did on occasion hit instances of it repeatedly failing. So, in my usage, it was repeatable with an error margin of something greater than 5 microns but less than 15. I don't think that's too bad.</p>
<p>The particular switch/PCB I use was a cheap generic "Ender 3 endstop switch replacement" off Amazon.</p>
|
2023-12-06T20:34:15.807 | |z-axis|linear-motion|axis|linear-rod| | <p>A few closely related questions about the straightness of linear rods. The 'straightness' of linear rods is vital for a 3D printer to function correctly and prevent things like Z-Banding or Z-Wobble. So, how do we measure the 'straightness' of linear rods? What measurement method or metric can be used?</p>
<p>I can imagine using some reference material (a piece of wood or a table), but then again, how would we know the reference material is perfectly straight? Lastly, how straight does it even have to be? What's a standard or acceptable range they should be in, and is there a standard that defines, classifies, and indicates this?</p>
| 21768 | What defines the 'straightness' of linear rods and how to measure it? | <p>A common metric for straightness of shafts in industrial equipment is Total Indicated Runout (TIR). The shaft is placed in V-blocks or ball bearing rollers at its bearing journals. Runout is checked at various positions along its length with a dial indicator as the shaft is rotated.</p>
<p>This method could be easily applied to guide rods supported at the same axial locations where they are held in the printer.</p>
|
2023-12-07T12:55:05.390 | |prusa-i3|power-supply|raspberry-pi|octopi| | <p>Prusa says the MK3S+ draws up to 120 W. So let's say 150 W of inrush current.</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$$150 W \div 230 V ≈ 0.65 A$$</span></p>
<p>An order of magnitude less than a typical Raspberry Pi optically isolated relay shield can do.</p>
<p>Is there anything I should be aware of when choosing the board? Anything I'm missing here?</p>
| 21770 | Is it safe to use 230 V AC, 10 A relay shield to turn my Prusa MK3S+ on/off using OctoPrint? | <p>Yes it is safe to use such relay modules. Note that the printer will use less power than the specified power, when in idle it nearly doesn't use any power at all, the inrush current will be ver low when switching the relay. Furthermore, the relay is capable of handling the current according to its specification. Do note that you are using mains power, which can be dangerous, please make precautions working on mains (pull the plug from the socket) and shield the wires and use proper crimping tools, no solder.</p>
<p>I have done this with 2 printers, one where I cut the 230 V, but the latest one uses a computer 12 V PSU which has a separate wire (I think this is 5 V) which you can short to start the PSU; this is much safer. I used and use OctoPrint with custom shell scripts to turn on the printer and the hot end cooler fan as described in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5812/">this answer</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tPLh9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="OctoPrint menu options"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tPLh9.png" alt="enter image description here" title="OctoPrint menu options" /></a></p>
|
2023-12-07T21:35:16.313 | |bltouch|automatic-bed-leveling|crtouch| | <p>What are the differences between the bed leveling probes BLTouch, CRTouch and 3DTouch in terms of reliability and accuracy?</p>
<p>Is there some kind of benchmark available? Also, how often should the plastic 'probes' in the BL and 3D touch be replaced? As that problem is solved in CRTouch.</p>
| 21774 | What's the accuracy and reliability difference between BLTouch, CRTouch and 3D touch? | <p>This answer goes into the <strong>reliability aspects</strong> of the often-discussed <em>"<a href="/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how">Touch sensors</a>"</em> within the 3D printing community based on experience with the BLTouch and the 3D Touch..</p>
<p>Throughout my journey in 3D printing, I've had the opportunity to experiment with various iterations of clones (from metal pins to plastic pins), referred to as the "3D Touch", attempting to emulate the renowned BLTouch sensor. One undeniable allure of these clones is their significantly lower price point, which tricked me into buying them being a budget-conscious 3D print enthusiast. However, it's essential to describe my experiences with these clones, which spanned up until 2019.</p>
<p>At first glance, these clones seemed promising, operating as expected and demonstrating competence in their initial usage. However, this initial phase was short-lived, as many of them eventually caved in to issues that severely impacted their reliability. These problems typically manifested in one of two ways: they either ceased to function altogether or exhibited erratic behavior by unpredictably deploying and retracting the probing pin during critical operations such as <code>G28</code> and <code>G29</code> G-code executions. The latter issue, characterized by premature pin deployment when the print bed was not adequately lowered (CoreXY), often resulted in disrupted Auto Bed Leveling (ABL, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18451/what-is-abl-or-ubl-is-this-the-same">What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same?</a>) sessions, leading to subpar print outcomes (actually no print at all...) and frustration.</p>
<p>In contrast, after making the switch to a genuine BLTouch sensor, the transformation in reliability was remarkable. It has faithfully served its purpose on my CoreXY printer for a continuous span of approximately five years, without a hint of trouble. The consistent and error-free performance of the authentic BLTouch has not only elevated the quality of my 3D prints but has also instilled confidence in the reliability of my 3D printing endeavors.</p>
<p>In essence, while cost-effective alternatives may initially appear enticing, investing in a genuine BLTouch sensor can undoubtedly pay itself in terms of frustration, reliability and long-term satisfaction. In hindsight, buying a genuine BLTouch would have actually saved me; "Penny wise, pound foolish" comes directly to mind.</p>
|