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2023-12-10T21:00:49.320

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|

<p>Some parts of <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6304780" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this model</a> when slicing in Cura are just being deleted.</p> <p>Here is the part of the model before slicing; notice how there is a wall between the threads and the inside <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWuFy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWuFy.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>And after slicing, that wall is just gone, and this wouldn't be practical to print. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wu1e.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wu1e.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>And turning on supports doesn't fix the problem in the slightest.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DIuaN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DIuaN.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dSfA3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dSfA3.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

21789

Why does Cura remove a part of a model when slicing?

<p>As mentioned in the comments. Probably the model contains too little space for the slicer to be able to slice for that nozzle size and resolution.</p> <p>You have a few options:</p> <ul> <li>Scale up the model</li> <li>Use a smaller nozzle and a higher resolution</li> <li>Change the model to include thicker walls</li> </ul> <p>Maybe you can increase wall thickness in slicer settings and achieve the same, although I am not sure of it.</p> <p>As mentioned by you, apparently PrusaSlicer did work. It's interesting to figure out what the actual difference is. Isn't it just the wrong visualization in Cura? Did you try to print that Cura-sliced model or preview it top-down layer for layer?</p>

2023-12-12T22:00:38.703

|marlin|octoprint|power-loss-recovery|

<p>As per the Marlin documentation for G-code <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M413 - Power-loss Recovery</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>When Power-loss Recovery is enabled, and Marlin runs a print job <strong>from the SD Card or Flash Drive</strong>, it periodically saves the print job state to the SD Card / Flash Drive. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, Marlin presents the option to resume the interrupted print job.</p> </blockquote> <p>If the printer is controlled by a host over USB instead (such as OctoPrint), can you still use Power-loss Recovery?</p>

21805

Can you use Power-loss Recovery when printing from OctoPrint?

<p>There is an OctoPrint plugin that attempts to achieve exactly that. The plugin is called <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/powerfailure/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint-PowerFailure</a> and it's page describes:</p> <blockquote> <p>OctoPrint-PowerFailure attempts to recover a print after a power failure or printer disconnect. It is intended as a last resort and does not replace the use of proper power backup and appropriate communication setups. Recovered parts are certain to show small defects, but this may be acceptable in some cases.</p> </blockquote>

2023-12-13T03:51:49.457

|print-quality|creatbot-f430|

<p>I've been attempting to 3D print a hollow cube, but I'm encountering issues with noticeable gaps between the walls. Despite adjusting the Extrusion multiplier and width settings, the results remain unchanged. Can someone provide guidance on how to address this issue or suggest alternative parameters to tweak for a more solid print?</p> <ul> <li>Filament Used: eSun ePLA-HS High-Speed Filament 1.75 mm</li> <li>Bed Temp: 60 °C</li> <li>Nozzle Temp: 220 °C</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8pDy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/I8pDy.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBDON.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBDON.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOR00.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pOR00.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

21807

What could be the underlying reasons for the spaces or voids between the layers?

<blockquote> <p>What could be the underlying reasons for the spaces or voids between the layers?</p> </blockquote> <p><strong>Underextrusion</strong> is what is called the phenomenon you see.</p> <p>For a calibrated printer, which is pretty much how you get them delivered, there should not be any fiddling with the extrusion multiplier parameter necessary to get reasonable prints.</p> <p>When underextrusion appears in your prints, this usually suggests that something is wrong in the extruder to spool to nozzle path.</p> <p>Many of the underextrusion can be related to e.g. (this is an example list and may not be complete, but, given the question it is hard to pinpoint to a specific issue):</p> <ul> <li>Too much friction on the spool, <ul> <li>Entangled, or tight winded filament</li> <li>Too much friction in unrolling/turning the spool</li> </ul> </li> <li>Obstructions in the nozzle <ul> <li>Carbonized debris in the nozzle</li> <li>Problems with the PTFE tube in the heat break</li> </ul> </li> <li>Problems with the extruder <ul> <li>Slipping/skipping filament; not enoungh force to move the filament</li> <li>Grinding filament; too much force to move the filament</li> </ul> </li> <li>etc.</li> </ul> <p>You need to do some troubleshooting, inspecting and cleaning of the complete extrusion path and address any problem you encounter.</p>

2023-12-13T15:23:50.083

|filament|fdm|tpu|flexible|tpe|

<p>It is my first time printing flexible filaments.</p> <p>I have been trying to print a flexible case for my mini-PC using the <a href="https://www.esun3d.com/elastic-tpe-83a-product/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TPE 83A by eSun</a> on my KP3S pro.</p> <p>Whenever I try to print it starts well, then after printing a few strokes, the print systematically fails. It is not an adhesion/levelling problem as I installed a BLTouch probe and made a 12x12 points grid of my 200x200 printing bed, which works perfectly with PLA. It seems that after printing a few lines, the nozzle just stopped extruding filament anymore (see photos); although the extrusion gear still seems to be turning.</p> <p>FYI my nozzle is a hardened steel nozzle, that I recently acquired to replace the original brass nozzle (because I wanted to print abrasive filament). Could it be the problem? I read that a hardened steel nozzle may not conduct heat as well. I did try a wide range of temperatures and saw the same results; also given the small size of the MK8 nozzle used by the KP3S, I would wager that heat losses due to poor heat conductivity of the nozzle may not be as important no? (I guess that the delta in temperature between the contact point with the heating also depends on the length of the nozzle)</p> <p>Other information:</p> <ul> <li>I print in an enclosure</li> <li>I try to keep my filament dry by using a heating box + desiccant</li> <li>Also the filament doesn't seem to warp, the filament that is on the bed seems to be well adhered. The problem seems to come from the &quot;extrusion system&quot;, whereby the filament just stops extruding.</li> <li>I used the recommended printing profile for flexible filament (e.g. reducing speed to 35 mm/s for top speed and to 20 mm/s for the first layers, retraction distance at 1 mm)</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbdmV.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a 3D model printed with TPE filament failing at the edge"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbdmV.jpg" alt="Photo of a 3D model printed with TPE filament failing at the edge" title="Photo of a 3D model printed with TPE filament failing at the edge" /></a></p> <p>Any idea of what might be happening? I gleaned a lot of info from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/657/proper-settings-for-printing-rubber-and-rubber-like-materials">Proper settings for printing rubber and rubber-like materials?</a> on printing flexible filaments. I will perform a bunch of tweaks based on that question to hopefully troubleshoot my way to a proper print through trial and error; however, it would be nice if someone has a better idea that could direct me as to what could be the problem given the symptoms observed.</p>

22810

TPE print fail - filament fails to extrude after normal start

<p>After several months of trial and error with this filament, I finally managed to understand the issue. It was a mechanical issue due to the filament sensor of the KP3S Pro.</p> <p>The out of the box setup of the KP3S pro is with the filament roll being set on rollers and passed into a filament sensor to anticipate situations where filament is running out.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFGF8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Out of the box setup for Kingroon KP3S"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFGF8.jpg" alt="Out of the box setup for Kingroon KP3S" title="Out of the box setup for Kingroon KP3S" /></a></p> <p>However, this sensor applies pressure on the filament, and it creates a mechanical strain that prevents more elastic materials from being pushed through the extruder.</p> <p>In order to lessen the mechanical strain on the filament I mounted it over the machine with a spool holder, and stopped using the filament sensor when printing my eSun eLastic TPE 83-A. I found this video, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHex0giqRxM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kingroon KP3S Pro Top Mount Spool Holder in Detail </a>, which uses a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800129" rel="nofollow noreferrer">KP3S spool mount model</a> which can easily be adapted to the KP3S pro.</p> <p>Thus the filament feeds directly in the drive, and I have no problem printing this flexible filament.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHN1V.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Top mount for the filament spool"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHN1V.jpg" alt="Top mount for the filament spool" title="Top mount for the filament spool" /></a></p> <p>I may (or may not) explore a bit more in the future to see if I can tinker with the pressure of the filament sensor so that I can take advantage of it also with flexible/elastic filaments. But for now I will be printing flexible filament without using the filament sensor.</p> <p>I won't go in detail about the parameters I used yet for this filament, because I am still exploring the best parameters for this filament. But this issue really was the core of my problem and I could already obtain very satisfactory results with my KP3S Pro printing this eSun TPE-83A.</p>

2023-12-14T20:07:22.750

|rotation|

<p>I need to convert the rotation movement of a motor to a linear movement (it has to be in the same axis of the motor).</p> <p>I made a 3D model in Tinkercad consisting of two parts:</p> <ul> <li><p>the first part will mount on the motor and has a shape like screw inside</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KyB3n.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KyB3n.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FR874.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FR874.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> </li> <li><p>the second part is a plunger that should move in linear direction when the motor rotate with the first part</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jGhG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jGhG.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxDLa.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxDLa.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUSRY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUSRY.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> </li> </ul> <p>I printed this model but the plunger gets stuck inside the first part and do not move.</p> <p>So it fails.</p> <p>I want a simple way to convert the rotary move to linear in the same axis of motor.</p> <p>I broke part #1 (&quot;the first part&quot;) from behind to see what happened inside. I found it sticks as part #2 jumps above the screw shape.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkUvK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkUvK.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I think this mechanism is hard to be done.</p> <p>So I switched to scotch yokes mechanism.</p> <p>Hope it works!!</p> <p>The vertical gear will pull the horizontal gears to move the articulator in a linear movement.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEL29.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEL29.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

22818

Convert rotation movement to a linear movement, in the same axis

<p>The following might seem obvious, but it shouldn't be overlooked either.</p> <p>Unless you have one of those Wire EDM cutting machines, with very precise tolerances¹, that can seamlessly cut a shape out of blocks of metal that then, seemingly, <em>glide</em> out of the surrounding block, with little to no <em>stiction</em>², then your printed surfaces of the screw will have imperfections that may cause the binding. The first step would be to shave, sand and smooth the surfaces. Maybe even treat with another chemical, such as acetone (depending upon your printing material) to smooth the surfaces even further.</p> <p>However, in addition to that, some lubricant may be in order. Every gear box or mechanism contains a little oil or grease.</p> <p>So, your original design <em>may</em> still work, with a little help from smoothing and lubricating any mating surfaces. As Trish states, your design has a lot of surface friction, so every bit of polishing of the surfaces will help.</p> <hr /> <p>¹ Approaching <span class="math-container">$\frac{5}{1000}$</span> (i.e. five thousandths) of a millimetre</p> <p>² Such as the objects shown at the start of this video: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9zyenX2PWk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How these impossibly thin cuts are made</a></p>

2023-12-18T20:41:08.390

|firmware|calibration|endstop|hardware|sensors|

<p>Looking at a bare Creality Ender 3 V2, I realised that there are three end-stop switches, one for each axis, X, Y, and Z. But this only helps to determine the start (0) position of each axis. Wouldn't doubling the end stops to six instead, two for each axis, one on each side, help to determine not only the start but also the end position? (Besides, to my understanding, the switches are called 'end stops' but are used as 'start stops' in this case.)</p> <p>If each axis has an 'end stop' at the start <strong>and</strong> at the end, it can dynamically determine how many steps can be taken. Isn't this more elegant and adaptable than using fixed sizes? Also, since end-stop switches are simple and cheap, why don't all printers use them? I think it could also help in <strong>precision calibration</strong> and still stay operational when hardware tweaks are made without firmware changes.</p> <p>Moverover, wouldn't it prevent wrongly configured firmware (by means of a 'hard stop' where stepper motor are trying to move something moving beyond the physical possible axis potentially resulting in catastrophic damage?</p>

22827

How could dual end-stop switches on each axis improve the functionality and precision of 3D printers like the Creality Ender 3 V2?

<p>First the questions in the body are addressed:</p> <blockquote> <p>I realised that there are three end-stop switches, one for each axis, X, Y, and Z. But this only helps to determine the start (0) position of each axis.</p> </blockquote> <p>No not necessarily, you could mount an endstop to the other end of the axis to determine the maximum value for that axis without the need for a start endstop, Marlin is already equipped with functionality for this:</p> <pre><code>// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN // :[-1,1] #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 </code></pre> <p>E.g. Ultimaker printers have their Z-endstop at the bottom, so the maximum value of the Z axis.</p> <blockquote> <p>Wouldn't doubling the end stops to six instead, two for each axis, one on each side, help to determine not only the start but also the end position?</p> </blockquote> <p>No, not necessarily, the end is fixed by the start position and the defined axis length (e.g. bed size of Z movement). It might be interesting to use a second endstop in case something goes wrong. E.g. layer shift as a result of the nozzle hitting something redefines the origin and could result in thinking the origin is somewhere on the build plate, adding the maximum bed sizes, the printhead could run into the end and destroy your printer, a second endstop, when triggered will stop the printer. I have used such an endstop on one of my printers, but I have never ran into problems with layer shifting and as such the endstop was never hit; I removed this endstop recently.</p> <blockquote> <p>Besides, to my understanding, the switches are called 'end stops' but are used as 'start stops' in this case</p> </blockquote> <p>The start is also an end of the axis, there are two ends on an axis.</p> <blockquote> <p>If each axis has an 'end stop' at the start and at the end, it can dynamically determine how many steps can be taken.</p> </blockquote> <p>No, steps are determined by your hardware (common hardware configuration for stepper motors is e.g. 200 steps per revolution or 400 or even more/less steps per revolution) together with the stepper driver which allows for substeps of the afore mentioned values.</p> <blockquote> <p>Moverover, wouldn't it prevent wrongly configured firmware (by means of a 'hard stop' where stepper motor are trying to move something moving beyond the physical possible axis potentially resulting in catastrophic damage?</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes it would, I already described that in case of layer shifting. But if you are bold enough to compile your own software you should known what you are doing and configure it correctly. Also test the printer before you use it and keep the powerswitch nearby.</p> <p>Now to answer the main question,</p> <blockquote> <p>How could dual end-stop switches on each axis improve the functionality and precision of 3D printers like the Creality Ender 3 V2?</p> </blockquote> <p>The precision will not be improved by adding another endstop to the other side of the axis. However, the functionality can be improved by adding another endstop but this is mainly protecting the printer in case something went wrong, as in the printhead has changed its position relative to the origin, e.g. in case of layer shifting. Knowing that the Creality Ender 3 are printers on the cheap end with their shortcomings (see all the questions) this may prevent damaging the printer, but, generally the belt skips when the head is obstructed in X-Y range. For the Z direction this may be different as there are lead screws involved which can procude more force (but I have yet to see a layer shift in Z direction...).</p>

2023-12-20T08:46:34.653

|scaling|

<p>I've 3D printed a box with a hole in it, the hole looks like a horse. My idea was that I then 3D print that horse in a different color and put it into the hole. The problem was that the horse didn't fit the hole, as they were the same size. I then made the horse smaller, but that made a new problem. Now the feet of the horse don't align with the hole. How can I scale the horse easily, like how can I just make everything thinner?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3ZXs.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Vector graphic of a stylized horse"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3ZXs.png" alt="Vector graphic of a stylized horse" title="Vector graphic of a stylized horse" /></a></p> <p>The image above is how the horse looks, and what I want is to make all sides go in 3 mm, I'm not sure how to do it without the legs moving.</p>

22832

How to fit a model into a hole with the same shape?

<p>Scaling in FreeCAD is very easy but you must remember that it's CAD not art. You can offset the sub-binders off a face or sketch. You can't offset the pad or the sketch without playing with parameters, a lot, which you won't want to do.</p> <p>Give the sub-binder (the green one) a negative offset of say -0.5mm. Pad it as if it were a sketch and it should fit the hole.</p>

2023-12-24T13:14:16.807

|prusa-i3|repair|belt|

<p>Recently both belts on my Prusa MK3S+ became loose. Quite suddenly, too. One print was okay, the next nozzle wobbled in the Y and bed in the X causing layer shifting. More precisely, each movement was shifted pretty randomly.</p> <p>I checked belt tension and there was basically none. It was good a month ago, and it must've been good enough just one print before. Of course I will tension them again, but I would be glad to know what are the possible causes of belts losing tension suddenly, to check them during the maintenance.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTGos.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Shot of the layers"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FTGos.jpg" alt="Shot of the layers" title="Shot of the layers" /></a></p>

22845

What could have caused both belts becoming loose?

<p>I figured it out.</p> <p>Long hours of printing ASA parts for my upcoming Voron Trident, in an enclosure, made printer parts softer and belts skipped on the teeth. I needed to glue and shim belt ends in place. Next time I'll need to replace these parts, and belts. Hopefully I'll have another printer by then.</p>

2023-12-25T06:13:05.207

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|filament-quality|layer-shifting|

<p>I'm working on printing the <a href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/3d-printable-jet-engine-minimal-printing-supports" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printable Jet Engine w/ Minimal Printing Supports</a> and I'm having a surprising amount of difficulty printing the fan. The fan seems to print fine, right up until the last 20 or so layers, where it starts to gap and blob-like I've never seen before.</p> <p>I have quite a few photos <a href="https://imgur.com/a/9Cgmu9F" rel="nofollow noreferrer">available to view</a>, but I'm including a few below:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xGC2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of jet engine fan model with gaps and blobs"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xGC2.jpg" alt="Photo of jet engine fan model with gaps and blobs" title="Photo of jet engine fan model with gaps and blobs" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5SuC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Upclose photo of the same fan model"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5SuC.jpg" alt="Upclose photo of the same fan model" title="Upclose photo of the same fan model" /></a></p> <p>Settings/components:</p> <ul> <li>Ender 3 S1 Pro (running Klipper)</li> <li>Filaments tried: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0B5Z221QB" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SUNLU 3D Printer Silk PLA Filament 1.75 mm</a> and <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0C69HXGWW" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AMOLEN Shiny Silk Black PLA Filament 1.75 mm</a></li> <li>Nozzle size: .4 mm</li> <li>Layer heights: 0.16 mm, 0.2 mm</li> <li>Speeds: 100 mm/s, 75 mm/s</li> <li>Temperature: 205 °C, 210 °C, 215 °C</li> <li>Retraction: Yes, tuned with with retraction towers</li> <li>Slicer: Cura</li> </ul> <p>What I have tried:</p> <ul> <li>Initially, I thought that maybe it was because I had the infill set to ~40 %, and a lot of top layers, so maybe the print geometry and the infill/top layers combo caused it, but they showed up when I put the infill to 100 %, as well as if I just put the walls to 20 (thus making it 100 %).</li> <li>I've tried printing with .20 mm and .16 mm layer height, as well as .16 mm + adaptive layers (which made a lot of it .12 mm)</li> <li>Tried switching to a different filament, and encountered the same results.</li> <li>Printed some tuning towers to verify that the temperature and retraction are set up okay.</li> <li>Tried lowering the speed down to 75 mm/s (usually around 100 mm/s)</li> </ul> <p>If it was something like a clogged nozzle, then I would assume that that same pattern would be seen everywhere on the print. That goes for the temperature and retraction as well.</p>

22846

Encountering some weird layer gaps on the last few lines of a particular print

<p>I re-printed the model using Curas overlay settings and some stretched cubes to apply different settings to some of the fan blades: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDVFF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BDVFF.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> And once printed, the blade seen here at the very bottom looks like it was the best: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2Htt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2Htt.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> The changes on that blade were just 4 bottom layers, 0 top layers and 7 walls (effectively making everything after the bottom 4 layers 100% density with just walls).</p> <p>I'm not sure why exactly the gap between the top layers and the walls was showing up, but regardless, this seems to be the fix.</p>

2023-12-25T15:57:41.857

|nozzle|printer-building|sensors|

<p>I'm thinking about implementing some kind of nozzle wear sensor. My question is simple: Do such sensors or automatic approaches already exist? Although I expect not and I know nozzles are cheap, it's just a fun educational challenge, not financially viable but that's not the purpose anyway.</p> <p>I thought about using a simple camera with a proper lens and computer vision to do either one or more of the following things:</p> <ol> <li>Have the extruder retract, perhaps brush the nozzle, then have a zoomed camera and light pointing up from under the nozzle, in an attempt (with some reference image next to it) to determine nozzle diameter size.</li> <li>Have a camera from the side of a nozzle, brushing it clean, extruding a few cm of filament, and analyzing how straight the filament flows down when extruded</li> <li>Take two precision measurements from under the nozzle somehow, one of the heat block and one of the nozzle-end, and determine the difference, although I have no way to account for other variables such as the nozzle not being screwed in properly, maybe non-standardized nozzle-height et cetera.</li> </ol> <p>Does something like this or another approach to achieve the same already exist? If not, is this a proper approach or are there other things to consider?</p>

22848

What is a good approach to develop a 'nozzle wear sensor'?

<p>It makes a huge difference if you want to measure the internal nozzle diameter or the &quot;typical&quot; wear when using an abrasive filament. CNCKitchen has a nice article,<a href="https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/how-much-abrasive-filaments-damage-your-nozzle" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How Much Abrasive Filaments Damage Your Nozzle!</a>, about the typical wear.</p> <p>TLDR is that most of the wear comes from moving your nozzle through parts of the last layer during travel moves. This way, your nozzle tip gets shorter.</p> <p>If that's what you want to measure, you might use your bed-leveling sensor for that. If your leveling sensor is precise enough, you could measure the distance to the bed with your BLTouch or other sensor. When your nozzle is new, you can take a second measurement by &quot;pressing&quot; the nozzle into the bed and detecting when motor current spikes, or by lowering it to a conductive edge of your print bed. This way, you can save the distance of your bed leveling sensor in relation to your nozzle tip. If your nozzle wears out, it should be shorter, and you should see that you can move your hotend lower before closing an electrical circuit or before your stepper driver uses an increased current (because it pushes into the bed).</p> <p>I need to mention that this is just an idea and I have never seen a solution like this. Doing this might pose problems I didn't think of.</p> <p>As you mentioned in possibility 3, a loose hotend screw can make the measurement of the distance difficult. Maybe you can remove that error by probing against a metal that has the inverted shape of a nozzle (just an inverted cone) which shouldn't change with nozzle wear, and then probe against a flat surface afterward and examine the difference. For this to work, you would of course have to clean the nozzle before any measurement.</p>

2023-12-25T21:15:09.453

|maintenance|ptfe-tube|ptfe|pfas|sustainability|

<p><a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)</a> is one of the best-known and widely applied PFAS commonly described as persistent organic pollutants or &quot;forever chemicals&quot;.</p> <p>If I want to avoid PFAS due to environmental concerns, is there an alternative to:</p> <ol> <li>PTFE Bowden tube used?</li> <li>PTFE coated nozzles?</li> <li>PTFE spray used for rod maintenance?</li> </ol>

22850

Is it possible to 3D print without PFAS/PTFE?

<p>None of those items are needed.</p> <p>If you have a bowden extruder, upgrade to a direct drive.</p> <p>Even on direct drive systems, PTFE tube is commonly used as a &quot;reverse bowden&quot; or &quot;feed tube&quot; to deliver the filament from a drybox or spool mounting point to the toolhead. Other tube materials may be used, but may contribute too much friction; you'll have to experiment if you want to go that path. You can usually forgo having one at all if youu mound the spool with a good direct path, or setup a system of filament guides/pulleys.</p> <p>If you have a PTFE-lined hotend, replace it with an all-metal one.</p> <p>Direct drive extruders may have a small piece of PTFE between the extruder and hotend, even when the hotend is all-metal. This part of the filament path being low-friction is not critical, and it can be replaced with a 2mm ID metal or even printed plastic tube without seriously compromising extrusion capability.</p> <p>Nozzles should never be PTFE-coated. Don't buy ones that are. The best nozzles are 100% tungsten carbide (never wears out, never wears into air or into your printed parts), but pretty much no nozzle should contain any PTFE unless explicitly marketed as such (eew).</p> <p>As a lubricant, there are lots of choices other than PTFE sprays, most of which are probably better. PTFE is highly recommended <strong>against</strong> for linear rails, as it's reported to lead to sliding by the balls instead of rolling. For smooth rods it might be a good choice, but I would expect there are grease, graphite, or other options that work just as well. I've never used a printer with smooth rods so I can't recommend anything in particular from experience.</p>

2023-12-27T20:35:27.320

|g-code|usb|microsd|sd|performance|

<p>I've been repeatedly printing the same G-code on two fairly identical machines (Creality Ender 3 V2) with the same settings, the only difference being one is printed from a Micro SD card and one is printed using OctoPi over a USB cable.</p> <p>Although I didn't measure the exact times, I have the idea that the SD card prints were consistently faster.</p> <p>Is it possible that prints from Micro SD card are indeed faster than prints sent from OctoPrint and if so, by how much percent could it be and why?</p>

22863

Is printing from a micro SD card faster than printing over a USB cable?

<p>The slowest USB standard is &quot;low-speed USB 1.0&quot;, at 1.5 megabits per second. The slowest SD card I've been able to find has a rated read speed of 900 kilobits per second.</p> <p>The average line of G-code is about 200 bits. Even the slowest USB connection or SD card can transfer thousands of lines of G-code per second, much faster than your printer can carry out the relevant motions. Any speed difference is going to come from how a printer handles those data sources, not anything inherent in them.</p>

2023-12-30T14:35:30.853

|creality-ender-3|marlin|microsd|mriscoc|eeprom|

<p>To my understanding, all settings including those that resulted from the Nozzle Auto MPC tuning and Bed PID tuning and the created UBL mesh are all stored I the EEPROM by the mriscoc Marlin firmware on a Creality Ender 3 V2.</p> <p>I'm asking because I recently encountered a bad (or very slow) micro SD card, where the printer took long to boot to the start screen and start beep (30 sec), consistently with a bad SD, and without a SD it booted almost instantly.</p> <p>So, does a Creality Ender 3 V2 running mriscoc firmware require a micro SD card at all, for other things as I previously mentioned?</p> <p>I'm printing only over USB using OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi (OctoPi).</p>

22875

Does a Creality Ender 3 V2 running mriscoc firmware require a micro SD card at all?

<p>If you only print from Octoprint, the SD card is not used.</p>

2024-01-01T14:48:01.887

|temperature|pid|mriscoc|

<p>I'm using the mriscoc firmware for Creality Ender 3 V2. The firmware has the option to run more PID Autotune cycles. The default is 5 cycles. Does running a PID Autotune with an increased cycle count result in more accurate PID values? For example running 50 cycles instead of the default 5?</p>

22883

Does running a PID Autotune with an increased cycle count result in more accurate PID values?

<p>In short, <strong>yes</strong>, More PID cycles will generally yield 'better' results.</p> <p>However, the PID values are being averaged over these multiple runs, and it will very quickly pass the point of diminishing returns after 5 cycles, Hence why it is the default.</p> <p>By the time you reach the hypothetical 50 cycles, you have likely far exceeded the margin of error present as a result of tolerances in your setup, and are only averaging noise.</p>

2024-01-02T13:30:33.927

|ultimaker-cura|g-code|ultimaker-2|

<p>I want to make a print where I swap color halfway through. I have tried doing something similar with a 2+ Connect before, and what the internet told me then was to go into Ultimaker Cura and modify the G-code to add a filament change. And the printer blew right past that layer and printed the whole thing in one go. (How Cura would allow me, completely without warning, to insert G-code unsupported by the chosen printer, especially since the chosen printer is of their own make and entirely under their control, is beyond me, and also a different question.)</p> <p>So naturally, now that I'm working with an Ultimaker 2+ (Extended, with original firmware up-to-date according to Cura), I am inclined to distrust Cura with these things. I have tried to look into modifying the G-code manually to add a pause, and then by hand interrupt the print to change filament. The two main options I have found are the commands <code>M0</code> and <code>G04</code>. But none of the sources I have found have mentioned printer support. I haven't been able to find anything online that tells me whether <code>M0</code> or <code>G04</code> are actually supported by the firmware.</p> <p>The G-code that Cura makes, with the settings I chose, uses <code>M0</code>, as shown below:</p> <pre><code>G0 F9000 X19.305 Y19.27 G0 X19.27 Y19.27 ;TIME_ELAPSED:25576.615046 ;TYPE:CUSTOM ;added code by post processing ;script: PauseAtHeight.py ;current layer: 22 M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction G1 F300 Z4.57 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way G1 F9000 X190 Y190 G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm M0 ; Do the actual pause G1 F300 Z3.57 G1 F9000 X19.27 Y19.27 G1 F300 Z3.57 ; move back down to resume height G1 F1800 ; restore extrusion feedrate M82 ; switch back to absolute E values G92 E3066.65549 ;LAYER:22 ;TYPE:FILL ;MESH:brett.stl G11 G1 F3600 X34.487 Y34.487 E3067.94669 </code></pre> <p>Would this even work? And if it turns out that it doesn't, is it as easy to fix as swapping out that <code>M0</code> command with a <code>G04</code> (possibly with a specified time argument)? Finally, I want this change to happen between what Cura, in the slice preview, calls layers 23 and 24, where it seemingly gives the first layer the name 1. The G-code insertion wizard asks me to insert the last layer I would like finished before the pause and specifies that 0 is the first layer printed. So I enter 22 in there. But in the above G-code, it seems to have inserted the pause <strong>before</strong> it begins to print its layer 22 (which in the Cura preview would be layer 23?) I need some help untangling this.</p>

22888

Does Cura's M0 pause work to pause an Ultimaker 2+ (Extended) print?

<p>I decided to go ahead and try anyways, to moderate success.</p> <p>The main takeaways:</p> <ul> <li><code>M0</code> does definitely work as advertised.</li> <li>During the pause, plastic had been leaking from the nozzle and down on the print, and during the filament change even more leaked out. Next time I'm doing this, I'm adding significantly more height to the line <code>G1 F300 Z15</code> (right above <code>M0</code>) and perhaps will consider a different parking spot (the line <code>G1 F9000 X190 Y190</code> right above that again) to prevent this from affecting the print</li> <li>As I extracted the blue filament that I started the print with, I saw that a couple of milimeters at the end had gotten singed and miscolored. Not much of an issue, though, I'll just snap it off next time I load it.</li> <li>Even though I did get plastic of the right color coming through the nozzle during the change procedure, as the printer resumed printing, it didn't actually print anything (presumably it retracted a little bit). I had to push the filament through the tube manually to get it to print correctly, but a little bit of the new layer was missing. Luckily, the next layer printed fine even without the layer below supporting it.</li> <li>When entering which layer to pause on into the wizard, it seems one should believe the layer numbers in the slice preview of Cura and the part of the pop-up that tells you to enter the layer that will complete before the pause. Everything else around this confused me into suspecting an off-by-one error somewhere, but those were just red herrings.</li> </ul> <p>In the rightmost corner you can see a little bit of the damage from the leaking while swapping filament, but most of it is hidden below the black (and you can also see that it didn't stick to the build plate, but that's entirely unrelated to this issue).</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnZUd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnZUd.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2024-01-02T20:55:22.867

|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|firmware|

<p>Yesterday, I upgraded my Ender 3 with a Creality touchscreen that is compatible with it. However, since the installation, it gets stuck on the loading screen once the bar fills up. I tried different versions and even built my own, but they all gave me one of three responses:</p> <ul> <li>Stuck on loading screen</li> <li><code>Firmware unexpected. TF may be corrupted. Try renaming or using different TF.</code></li> <li>Take me to the interface with half the buttons/widgets responding and no functionality.</li> </ul> <p>And I can't reinstall the old LCD because I had to cut its cable to disconnect it.</p> <p>I also asked the Bing AI, which gave me tips that didn't work. Any tips from <strong>this</strong> community?</p>

22889

My Ender 3 malfunctions with touchscreen

<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/22889/my-ender-3-malfunctions-with-touchscreen/22957#comment41201_22889">Agarza was right</a>.</p> <blockquote> <p>Have you checked to see if the screen itself needs a firmware update?</p> </blockquote> <p>I inserted the SD card into the wrong place. I finally got it to work by inserting the SD card with the DWIN folder into the touchscreen itself (after unscrewing the housing) and successfully flashed the working version of the firmware.</p>

2024-01-04T10:20:46.293

|octopi|

<p>The new OctoPi camera stack is reported to be lighter, more efficient, and overall better. Old camera stack sometimes loses access to my camera during print, and only regains it after restart. Thus, obviously, I want to try the new one. Maybe it'll help with my specific problem, maybe it won't, but it has to be at least slightly better. I do not want to lose my uploaded files, Octolapse lapses, plugin config etc.</p> <p>So, is there a way to upgrade to the new camera stack without reinstall? Or to save plugins, configs and files to restore them after reinstall?</p>

22897

How to migrate OctoPi to new camera stack without reinstall?

<p>I think many problems could arise from doing this manually such as missing or incompatible dependencies. As I had to do the same I just tested the following successfully:</p> <h2>Making a backup of the OctoPi configuration (required)</h2> <ul> <li>Login on the OctoPi web ui</li> <li>Click settings</li> <li>Under OctoPrint (left menu) click on 'Backup &amp; Restore'</li> <li>Click 'Create backup now' and when finished download the backup</li> </ul> <h2>Make a backup of the entire SD card (optional)</h2> <p>You can make a full bit-to-bit copy (image) of the SD card as a backup <strong>or use another SD card for testing it first.</strong> On Windows you can for example download <a href="https://win32diskimager.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Win32DiskImager</a> and make a full image/backup of the SD card.</p> <h2>Flashing OctoPi with the new camera stack</h2> <ul> <li>Download and open <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Raspberry Pi Imager</a></li> <li>Choose 'Other specific-purpose OS' followed by '3D printing' and 'OctoPi'</li> <li>Choose the 'OctoPi (new camera stack)' as shown below</li> <li>Insert another SD card for testing or override your current SD card after you've made the backups as described above</li> <li>Choose other specific settings if desired such as WiFi et cetera</li> <li>Flash to SD card</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgAHf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lgAHf.png" alt="Raspberry Pi Imager" /></a></p> <h2>Restoring the OctoPi configuration</h2> <ul> <li>When finished, place the SD card in the Pi and start it up</li> <li>When the Pi started open the Web UI again on the Welcome Wizard click Next</li> <li>On the 'Restore Backup' screen select the backup you've made on the first step and wait for all plugins to install, config to be restored and Pi to restart</li> </ul>

2024-01-05T14:21:49.017

|creality-ender-3|calibration|bed|mriscoc|octopi|

<p>When pushing the limits of the bed size (235x235 mm) for two Creality Ender 3 V2 printers running the same mriscoc firmware and the same config and upgrades. I noticed that despite using the same G-code for these two fairly identical printers resulted in offsets that was not accounted for.</p> <p>I sliced and printed a test model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529/files" rel="nofollow noreferrer">175mm_bed_center_calibration_crosshair.stl from Thingiverse.com</a> and when slicing in Cura it is perfectly centered as shown below:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9EC62m.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9EC62m.png" alt="test center model" /></a></p> <p>However when printed on each printer and measured, the position in mm for both printers (namely Owl and Fox) are off as shown below:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZLXt.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZLXt.png" alt="measurement of center position for two printers" /></a></p> <p>I would like to setup the printers fairly similar, I only print from OctoPi over USB to these printers, one Pi for each printer, so that I can slice once and use the same G-code on both printers. How do I calibrate this without recompiling the firmware? Can I setup a start or end G-code in OctoPi per printer to set a proper center offset? And moreover, why does this happen for identical printers? Shouldn't the tolerance be much smaller than 3 mm difference horizontally and 2 mm vertically (shown from above)?</p> <h2>Additional measurements</h2> <p>For reference, based on request in the comments some measurements of the end stops relative to the frame of the XY-axes of both printers.</p> <p>Measurement of the Z-axes are irrelevant for this purpose.</p> <p><strong>Owl Y-axis Endstop (85mm)</strong> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/djshl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/djshl.jpg" alt="Owl Y-axis Endstop" /></a></p> <p><strong>Fox Y-axis Endstop (85mm)</strong> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJUbf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJUbf.jpg" alt="Fox Y-axis Endstop" /></a></p> <p><strong>Owl X-axis Endstop (45mm)</strong> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1R0T7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1R0T7.jpg" alt="Owl X-axis Endstop" /></a></p> <p><strong>Fox X-Axis Endstop (45mm)</strong> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BY9Wi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BY9Wi.jpg" alt="Fox X-Axis Endstop" /></a></p> <p>I also measured the <strong>size between the bed and the frame</strong> as shown below and it's precisely 7mm <strong>on each side</strong> of the bed <strong>on both printers</strong>.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlgAu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UlgAu.jpg" alt="Space between bed and frame" /></a></p> <p>I think these are the only measurements that make sense, but correct me if you have other suggestions for measuring it.</p> <p>Also, the only offset that is reported after running the M503 G-code in G-cod M851 it not relevant for centering, the Z-offset. For Fox <code>M851 X-41.50 Y-7.00 Z-1.13 ; (mm)</code> and for Owl <code>M851 X-41.50 Y-7.00 Z-1.06 ; (mm)</code>.</p>

22907

Why do two identical Creality Ender 3 V2 printers have a center that is 3 mm off from each other and 7 mm off expected and how to calibrate it?

<p>Perhaps the hot-end or end stops of one of the printers are located in a slightly different location. That's why there is a <a href="https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Calibration-Guides" rel="nofollow noreferrer">calibration guide</a> to be able to correct that.</p>

2024-01-20T11:20:03.007

|lead-screw|

<p>I've bought an additional second hand printer and I noticed that the lead screw has been bent. I did not have any issues so far with prints that are only a few cm tall.</p> <p>I filmed it from the top, next to a ruler, as shown below and put a grid over it for reference. I think it should be replaced. How bad is this? When should it actually be replaced?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlbA6.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlbA6.gif" alt="rotating bended leadscrew view from above" /></a></p>

22965

When is a leadscrew too bent and should be replaced?

<h2>Cause and effect</h2> <p>Bent screws can cause an effect known as Z-wobble. But, to mitigate this, the non-driven side of the lead screw is left unconstrained. This is intentionally designed as such.</p> <p>This means that as long as the linear guide (being V-slot with rollers, linear shafts or linear rails) are sufficiently guiding the carriage, a little bent screw would not cause too much problems in the print result.</p> <p>Note that the animated gif shows the end displacement, this exaggerates the actual displacement experienced by the lead screw nut.</p> <blockquote> <p>When is a leadscrew too bent and should be replaced?</p> </blockquote> <p><strong>If it causes quality issues in your prints.</strong></p> <p>E.g.: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/94dXC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/94dXC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <h2>Mitigation</h2> <p>Buying new, straight leadscrews. Usually, the more straight the more expensive, the lead screws from the far East range from acceptable to unusable. Ball screws are much more precise, but also cost more, especially the ground screws.</p> <p>Some people straighten the lead screws, there are videos to be found how you do that.</p> <p>But, note that there is an option <strong>not to replace the screws</strong>!</p> <p>E.g., to completely remove any wobble of the lead screw, you can use something called an <strong>Oldham coupler</strong> to <strong>decouple the X-Y movement from the Z movement</strong>. For Creality Ender printers, there are specific couplers to order to install so that you will not need to buy new lead screws.</p> <p>Custom printer designed Oldham couplers look similar to: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOB30.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XOB30.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>There are also printable versions that work very well, in fact I designed and used my own, inspired by <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910524" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this design</a>: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcqdn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcqdn.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2024-01-21T21:24:04.473

|nozzle|speed|e3d-v6|cht|mk8|

<p>I already switched my standard 0.4 mm nozzle to a standard 0.6 mm nozzle with a huge printing time reduction without losing much detail. I also would like to try using Core Heating Technology (CHT) 0.6 mm nozzle instead, to be able to increase printing speeds and reduce printing time even more.</p> <p><a href="https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/bondtech-cht-high-flow-nozzle-reviewed" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CNC Kitchen</a> tested the performance with the following results:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZ2Xo.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZ2Xo.jpg" alt="Extrusion Performance 0.6 mm V6 vs CHT nozzle vs Volcano" /></a></p> <p>I found some E3DV6 CHT nozzles, do they fit on a stock Ender 3 V2 hotend or do I need a specific E3D hotend for that? Or since I don't want to upgrade my hotend, are there MK8 CHT nozzles, or are the sizes the same?</p>

22973

Are there any Core Heating Technology (CHT) nozzles available for a stock Ender 3 V2 hotend?

<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9912/what-is-the-functional-difference-between-an-e3d-style-nozzle-makerbot-mk8-and/9913#9913">Creality style &quot;MK8&quot; hotends (including the Ender 3's) can use &quot;MK8&quot; <strong>or</strong> e3D V6 nozzles.</a></p> <p>Bondtech sells genuine CHT in both Creality MK8 and e3D V6 forms. If you prefer matching what your machine has exactly, you can buy that, but it will only work on the Creality-style &quot;MK8&quot; hotends, not anything else. If you buy the e3D V6 version, it will work on your Ender's Creality MK8 hotend and any hotend that's compatible with e3D V6 nozzles.</p> <p>I've always bought the e3D V6 version for my Ender and it's worked fine.</p>

2024-01-22T19:47:24.187

|cad|scanning|artificial-intelligence|photogrammetry|nerf|

<p>I noticed when scanning objects using photogrammetry or the AI-based Neural Radiance Field (NeRF) in apps such as Kiri Engine that the original size is not retained in the object.</p> <p>How can I actually retain the original size, or set the proper sizes when or after scanning objects like that? So that, when 3D printed it is the same size as the original?</p>

22979

How to set or retain original object size in photogrammetry scans with apps such as Kiri Engine?

<h2>Reference objects</h2> <p>When scanning something, including a simple reference geometry, such as a cube, is best. This can then be used to scale the final model to the correct size and as a reference for if the item has the correct angles. Besides cubes, coins (esp. matte ones) make handy markers and scale references.</p> <p>If your scan contains color values, a simple photo scale angle could suffice. That item would be taken directly from photography. There it is sometimes required to contain size information and a pointer to the angle the photo was made at. This is made by using a square or angle with scale markings and distortions of the item can be solved later till the angle appears properly and to the right scale.</p>

2024-01-23T05:59:15.687

|slicing|

<p>My son is printing a simple block with a small (2 mm high) bump on top - see image below of the cross section. The left shows the 3D model and the right shows where the plastic actually prints, using a grid infill at around 10 %, with a top height of 1.6 mm</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrst7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Grapic of a block with a square bump on top; a cross section of the block is next to the first"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrst7.png" alt="Grapic of a block with a square bump on top; a cross section of the block is next to the first" title="Grapic of a block with a square bump on top; a cross section of the block is next to the first" /></a></p> <p>As you can see, this is very weak, and the bump very easily snaps off, as it has very little plastic securing it to the layer below. When we increase the top/bottom thickness (in Creality Cloud) to 4 mm this issue goes away, and the bumps are well connected. But then the print takes a very long time.</p> <p>Questions:</p> <ol> <li><p>Is this the expected behavior of a slicer? Why does it not add material to firmly connect the bump to what is beneath it?</p> </li> <li><p>How exactly is the &quot;top thickness&quot; setting applied? E.g. if it's set to 2 mm, does that only apply to the layers comprising the topmost 2 mm of the model, or does it stipulate that there must be 2 mm of plastic at the 'top' of the model at all X, Y coordinates?</p> </li> <li><p>Is there a way to set the top thickness separately from the bottom thickness in Creality Cloud?</p> </li> </ol>

22980

Effect of top thickness on print with bumps on top

<p>Modern versions of Cura have a feature called &quot;skin edge support thickness&quot; which will build extra perimeter-like layers under the edge of your &quot;bump&quot; down into the infill area, making it attach much better. I believe it defaults to on.</p> <p>Your problem is probably that &quot;Creality Cloud&quot; is based on an ancient fork of Cura and does not do this, but you could check and see if they have anything similar available. The right solution, though, is to use real up-to-date slicing software like recent Cura (5.x at the time of this writing; I believe the feature was introduced near the end of the 4.x series), PrusaSlicer, or anything but the junk your printer vendor ships (or doesn't even ship but expects you to interface with via the cloud?)</p>

2024-01-24T02:07:53.767

|extrusion|nozzle|speed|nylon|carbon|

<p>I have been trying to print fiber-filled nylons (Polymaker PA6GF and Taulman PA CF) on my Prusa i3 MK3S+ with a steel E3D 0.4 mm nozzle at a reasonable speed. I print at 290 °C for the Polymaker and 265 °C for the Taulman. This is at the upper end of the specified print temperature range. I can only print up to 25 mm/s before the extruder gears slip and never regain traction. They are tightened pretty much all the way (not that it makes much of a difference). Can the print speed be improved somehow without moving to a larger nozzle, or is this the limit? I was thinking a bimetal nozzle or maybe even a volcano-length nozzle with nuts might improve the viscosity. I would like to get up to maybe 50 mm/s.</p>

22986

How can I improve print speed with carbon fiber nylon and an 0.4 mm nozzle?

<p>I got a nickel plated copper meltzone extender which solved the problem. I was able to print a decent benchy with the fastest print speeds at 70 mm/s. The melt zone extender results in the same melt zone length as a volcano nozzle in a normal v6 heater block. A volcano nozzle with an adapter or just a couple m6 brass nuts should work the same. I got the Polymaker filament to work but not the Taulman. I would avoid it.</p>

2024-01-24T14:08:34.890

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|dremel-3d45|

<p>I drew this object by myself using Blender:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHma4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHma4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Importing the STL in Cura v5.3.1 under Ubuntu 23.10 I'm able to slice it for a Sovol SV04 printer, but if I select the Dremel 3D45 printer it fails:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5Wo3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5Wo3.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I don't see any &quot;red&quot; spot on the model that would tell me it's damaged.</p> <p>What could prevent the slicing changing the model of the printer? How to understand why it cannot slice and how to fix then?</p>

22988

Why Cura cannot slice this object?

<p>While without the files it's a guessing game, we can make an educated guess: the most frequent and likely culprit for this sort of faults is the model not being a manifold.</p> <p>Most likely you've created several objects in Blender, and visually they comprise the shape you want, but internally they intersect, creating a lot of unnecessary internal geometry under the surface, and Cura fails to deduce what parts of the geometry are the actual &quot;skin&quot; of the object.</p> <p>First, if your shape is composed of multiple objects, use the Boolean Union modifier, to merge them into a single object. Besides that, install &quot;3D Printing Toolbox&quot; add-on in Blender, find it in the sidebar tabs, and use the &quot;Make Manifold&quot; option, and inspect your shape to make sure it worked correctly and removed everything &quot;under the surface&quot;, leaving only hollow skin. If it failed, you may have to do that manually.</p>

2024-01-26T07:46:27.007

|pla|post-processing|infill|laser|

<p>Is it possible to laser engrave an object that was 3D printed with PLA or will the structure of the whole object simply melt and fail?</p> <p>How does PLA behave when being engraved? Does it require special treatment of the PLA first or is, for example, more infill required?</p>

22993

Can a PLA print be laser engraved?

<h2>Yes, it is possible</h2> <p>Jered Adams shared, <a href="https://youtu.be/UL5HcOn0Jtw" rel="nofollow noreferrer">in a Youtube Video from 2023</a>, that he could, in fact, engrave prints with a laser, and his method. The problems he encountered were mostly related to getting good reference points and affixing the part. He did use a large industrial-size machine with a 40 W CO₂ laser module. For the positioning, he used a printed block of known height to adjust the laser module. After making an initial high-power pass with air assist, he added powder-coat paints to the depth to make the engraving easier to see and turned off the air.</p> <p>During first engraving with 12 %, notice the thin white smoke at the center where the laser impacts, getting pulled away by the air assist. The engraving itself is visible as a slightly different color. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBSEB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBSEB.png" alt="Laser during engraving, visible smoke trail" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkE7D.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkE7D.png" alt="later during engraving, better visibility of the engraving due to angle" /></a></p> <p>After adding the powder and burning it in with a lower power setting (9 %), the result is very legible: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlgBI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XlgBI.jpg" alt="engraved and assembled part" /></a></p> <h2>Power settings</h2> <p>Mr. Adams used 12 % power on the initial pass and 9 % on the &quot;inking&quot; pass. Taking his 40 W Diode as a base, that'd correspond to 4.8 W and 3.6 W respectively, so could be done with a 5 W laser module.</p> <p>Do note that the initial pass power could also depend on the color of the laser and the exact composition of your polymer. This is because some colors and materials absorb wavelengths from the laser differently, so it is hard to say for sure the same setting will work for all colors the same.</p> <h2>Print settings</h2> <p>The engraving, with the right settings, should at most be one wall thickness deep, which would compromise <em>that</em> one wall's carrying capacity. A 2-wall print might see significant weakness due to the engraving, but with 3 or more walls, the impact would be massively reduced.</p>

2024-01-26T11:13:40.067

|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|z-axis|x-axis|

<p>Everything worked normally until the printer finished with a model after a 22-hour print job. As usual, I made everything like for the previous models to print the next one, but I suddenly noticed that this time it was printing only to the left side, the coordinates of Y-axis. I tried to change some parameters, opened and cleaned the nozzle from the PLA, powered it on-and-off to rest, checked everything, and performed some research on the net and youtube but it's still the same.</p> <p>Additionally, I'm sharing this photo as an example of the current situation, with labeling that works only in Y-axis:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOvqF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOvqF.jpg" alt="A photo from an earlier print. Labeling says, it only moves the bed." /></a></p> <p>Any suggestions, or solutions if someone has had the problem before?</p>

22996

Creality Ender 3 after normal printing, lost the ability to print in X and Z axis

<p>I unscrewed parts that move X and Z axis, took off E and X connectors and then put everything in place. Gently moved the head on X axis, turned the printer on and it was working fine. Maybe, something was stuck or not in place while printing previous large model.</p>

2024-01-27T21:30:24.177

|z-axis|stepper|belt|

<p>I upgraded two printers (Creality Ender 3 V2) with a dual Z-axis upgrade using an additional stepper motor. However, I realized that this could potentially still cause the two screws to be moved individually.</p> <p>I figured that a mechanical dual Z-axis with a timing belt would have probably be a better upgrade instead of adding an additional stepper motor.</p> <p>Anyhow, when two stepper motors are used, how to accurately synchronise them so that both screws on the Z-axis are and stay synchronised?</p>

23003

How to accurately synchronise dual Z-axis when two steppers motors are used?

<p>There are a few options when adding an extra stepper motor, the usual upgrade is using a single stepper driver, driving 2 steppers either serial or parallel connected, or using 2 stepper drivers, this requires an extra stepper on the controller board (in that case one needs to replace the board; the standard board has the ability to control 4 stepper motors individually: X, Y, Extruder and Z).</p> <p>The forces in 3D printing of moving the carriage along the various axes are relatively low, far less than e.g. a CNC machine where a spinning tool is pushed through a material. In 3D printing the nozzle hovers over the printing object connected to the print by a molten drop of filament, virtually no resistance. This implies that it is very unlikely to miss steps on one of the driven sides so that is becomes out of sync. Note that you can automatically tune the two sides if you have two steppers on separate stepper drivers and have a BLTouch (I'm using this on my CoreXY).</p> <p>The two stepper motors push up a reasonably low mass for what the stepper motors can generate, certainly for the Z-axis as these are driven by lead screws. Driving a gantry with one stepper is <em>the</em> design flaw of the cheap-end printers, a timing belt with a single stepper works very well (I'm using this on my take of a Prusa i3 I designed), but must be mechanically tuned to be as straight in relation to the frame (if not, a test cube would look more as a 3D skewed cube).</p> <blockquote> <p>Anyhow, when two stepper motors are used, how to accurately synchronise them so that both screws on the Z-axis are and stay synchronised?</p> </blockquote> <p>Print a fixed distance leveling aid, see e.g. <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Level+x+axis&amp;page=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these</a> and level the X-gantry to the frame first, remove the levelling aids and then level the bed through the bed screws. The screws will not likely get out of sync, but if so, re-level with respect to the frame. Or, buy a larger controller board with more spare stepper drivers and automatically tune Z1 and Z2; be sure the bed is parallel to the frame then.</p>

2024-01-27T22:26:36.510

|z-axis|lead-screw|z-wobble|anti-recoil|coupler|

<p>I'm trying to understand both Oldham couplers and a Anti-Recoil Nuts.</p> <ul> <li><strong>Oldham Coupler</strong>: Its function is to connect two shafts and transfer rotation from one to the other while compensating for misalignment. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfQXz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfQXz.jpg" alt="Oldham Coupler" /></a></li> <li><strong>Anti-Recoil Nut</strong>: Its purpose is to eliminate backlash in the lead screw, ensuring precise linear motion. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShL1M.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShL1M.jpg" alt="Anti-Recoil Nut" /></a></li> </ul> <p>In case of the Creality Ender 3 V2 both are a replacement for the original nut:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjdIP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjdIP.jpg" alt="Original Nut" /></a></p> <p>Why is there no part that utilises both functions in order to have the benefits of both? Better alignment to reduce Z-Wobble using the Oldham Coupler, and less backlash and better motion precision using the Anti Recoil Nut.</p> <p>To my understanding they cannot be used both at the same time and I could not find a part that seems to combine those functions. Am I missing something? Does one make the other obsolete?</p>

23004

Can a Oldham coupler and a Anti-Recoil Nut be used at the same time?

<p>I don't see why you couldn't use them together. They are both dealing with eliminating a different effect.</p> <p>The Oldham deals with the movement in the X-Y plane, the backlash nut with the Z-axis.</p> <p>The backlash effect is not something to worry about, the Z-axis generally moves just in one direction and the gantry has reasonable mass.</p>

2024-01-28T22:39:17.150

|marlin|g-code|filament-sensor|runout-sensor|lotmaxx|

<p>I have a Lotmaxx Shark v2, which has developed the problem of constantly saying the filament has ran out when it hasn't. I've narrowed down the issue to the main board, and tried to work around the problem:</p> <ul> <li>Installed new sensor (which is just a switch), no effect.</li> <li>Checked the cable continuity all the way to the pins that plug into the main board, that was fine.</li> <li>Added <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M412.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M412 S0</code></a> to the top of my G-code file to try to disable the sensor.</li> <li>Set <code>FILAMENT_INVERTING</code> in the firmware configuration.</li> </ul> <p>If, for whatever reason, the main board is damaged, I'd love to just disable this sensor. I don't really need it. Also unused is the second extruder set, so if I can't disable the sensor maybe I could configure the printer to use extruder #2 all the time instead of extruder #1?</p>

23011

How to disable a filament sensor?

<h4>Via firmware</h4> <p>Looking at your <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M412.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M412 - Filament Runout</a> link, it says that it requires <code>FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR</code>.</p> <p>Try disabling <code>FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR</code> in the firmware by commenting out (<code>//</code>) the following line, in <code>Configuration.h</code>, like so</p> <pre><code>//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR </code></pre> <p>From <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/configuration/configuration.html#filament-runout-sensor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Filament Runout Sensor</a></p> <pre><code>//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR #if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR) #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each. #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the sensor. ... </code></pre> <hr /> <h4>Via UI</h4> <p>Watch this video, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxBGBjLC2rk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The BEST Ender-3 V2 Firmware EVER?! MRiscoC Professional Firmware</a>, at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxBGBjLC2rk&amp;t=143" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2:43</a>,</p> <p><div class="youtube-embed"><div> <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pxBGBjLC2rk?start=0"></iframe> </div></div></p> <p>It shows the Filament sensor can be disabled via the UI:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BgTAr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament settings on printer UI"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BgTAr.jpg" alt="Filament settings on printer UI" title="Filament settings on printer UI" /></a></p>

2024-01-29T12:31:20.743

|ultimaker-cura|octoprint|

<h5>What I saw</h5> <p>Last night, I sliced a <em>Califlower</em> in <em>Cura</em>, used the &quot;Send to OctoPrint&quot; option to send it to the printer via the <em>OctoPrint Connection</em> plugin (the standard Cura OctoPrint plugin at v3.7.3), made sure the first layer printed fine, and then put my PC to sleep.</p> <p>That's when I noticed the print had stopped.</p> <h5>What I expected to see</h5> <p>I expected the print to carry on in the background, as I thought the print had already been sent to the OctoPrint 'server'.</p> <p>It seems that rather than Cura uploading the G-code to OctoPrint (running on a Raspberry Pi 5^†, plugged into the printer via USB) telling it to print and then just monitoring progress, it streams the whole G-code in real time, using OctoPrint as a glorified network attached USB serial port, which rather defeats the purpose of having a print 'server' at all^‡.</p> <h5>What I tried</h5> <p>I tried setting the option to &quot;Store G-code on the SD card of the printer&quot;, but the <em>Note:</em> wasn't kidding when it said this would take a long time. Since there was no option to cancel, I ended up restarting OctoPrint, forcing a disconnect.</p> <h5>What I want to understand</h5> <p>Is there any way to get Cura to upload the G-code to OctoPrint and then tell it to print rather than stream it to the printer?</p> <p>I would prefer my power efficient Raspberry Pi pushing G-code commands to the printer for hours, not my power hungry gaming PC.</p> <hr> ^{&dagger; Specifically a Raspberry Pi 5, running Raspberry Pi OS the from 2023-13-05 Image, fully `apt` upgraded, and running OctoPrint 1.9.3, installed using the recommended `octoprint_deploy` script.} <p>^{‡ When I send a 50 page document to my networked HP printer, I don't expect <em>that</em> to stop printing after I put my PC to sleep either!}</p>

23015

Getting OctoPrint to continue printing when I put my PC to sleep?

<p>The obvious, a bit expensive but probably best and most common solution is to use Octopi. (it's so common it took me a while to realize you're running Octoprint from a PC!)</p> <p>You get a Raspberry Pi 3b, or 4, or any of a large number of cheaper and more available alternatives (I personally use Orange Pi zero 2) - then you install Linux with Octoprint on it. You power it up from the printer's power through some sort of regulator, connect the printer with it over a stub of USB cable, and connect it to your home LAN over Ethernet or Wifi. It's powered on and running while the printer is running. You link up Cura to it to upload gcode to its sd card (over LAN, so very fast) and you control it over web interface. That means the PC can be in another room (with Octoptint page displaying camera view of the print bed on second screen, in case anything goes wrong), you can design and slice your projects in silence and shut down your PC when you're done, while the small Pi works overnight feeding the printer gcode over its USB connection.</p> <p>Configuration:</p> <ul> <li>From Cura Marketplace install Octoprint Connection.</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VB3Jh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VB3Jh.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <ul> <li>in Octoprint: wrench icon, Features &gt; Application Keys</li> <li>Generate key, name: cura.</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhxaS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhxaS.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <ul> <li>In Cura, Setings, printer, manage printers, select the printer, 'Connect Octoprint'.</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rK8ho.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rK8ho.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <ul> <li>Select the Octopi from list, paste the application key in the key field.</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCmtF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCmtF.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>From then on the PC is connected to Octopi over the net, so the transmission between the two is vastly faster than over serial, and after slicing you get the drop-down option &quot;Print with Octoprint&quot; besides &quot;Save to disk&quot;. Selecting &quot;Print with Octoprint&quot; allows you to type in the directory on Pi, edit the file name, and pick whether to select and start the print immediately - without that it will just be placed in the storage medium of the Octoprint device, to be started from Octoprint at a later time.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1FZWn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1FZWn.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2024-02-03T13:34:35.970

|fusion360|

<p>Starting from this sketch:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnVZY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnVZY.png" alt="Sketch showing a curved profile" /></a></p> <p>I've revolved and extruded it to result in the body shown:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGAiy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGAiy.jpg" alt="3D body resulting from revolving and extruding the sketch" /></a></p> <p>This is destined to be printed, so I need to fill in the cavity of the stick-y-out-y bit. I can use Surface-&gt;Patch to make it <em>look</em> correct from the outside, but there's still a void within:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4AM6i.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4AM6i.jpg" alt="Close-up of cavity" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/blLMo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/blLMo.png" alt="3D body with hole filled in with a surface patch" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fuz9r.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fuz9r.png" alt="Sectional analysis revealing cavity" /></a></p> <p>I've searched using phrases such as &quot;fusion join surface to body&quot; &quot;fusion fill void within body&quot; and have only found results talking about making a body exclusively from surfaces. One promising sounding option was &quot;boundary fill&quot;, but it seems to have no effect in this case.</p> <p>What is the correct tool / technique to use here?</p>

23041

How to fill a void within a body?

<h2>Simplify the order of operations</h2> <p>Sometimes, it is way easier to do the order of operations in a different order:</p> <p>First, create the thickness of the body. Only then then subtract the rotation profile and last sweep the the outer profile subtractively</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFQhh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFQhh.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWxOT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWxOT.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIZLQ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TIZLQ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2024-02-15T01:53:48.250

|creality-ender-3|marlin|bltouch|z-probe|crtouch|

<p>I have an Ender 3 Pro, board version 4.2.2, and a CR Touch with 5 pin connector. I also removed the z-axis endstop connector at the endstop.</p> <p>I've been building and flashing Marlin 2.1.2.2, but I haven't found a configuration that makes the CRTouch work as expected. Typically, during auto homing, the machine will ignore the probe triggering and drive Z into the bed either 100% of the time or most of the time. I didn't take detailed enough notes to know for sure.</p> <p>As a test case, I tried following along with <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19617/configuring-marlin-2-x-with-ender-3-4-2-2-and-bltouch">this answer</a> exactly and still had the same problem. Configuration changes from the Marlin Ender 3 Pro default:</p> <ul> <li>Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN commented out</li> <li>USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING uncommented</li> <li>Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN uncommented and set to PB1</li> <li>BLTOUCH uncommented</li> <li>NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET set to { -44, -9, -0.9 } (here I differ slightly from the { -44, -9, 0 } in the answer)</li> <li>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL uncommented</li> <li>ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 uncommented</li> <li>Z_SAFE_HOMING uncommented (not in the answer, but in a comment)</li> </ul> <p>On my first boot after inserting the SD card with firmware:</p> <ol> <li>The probe deployed and retracted a couple of times, ending retracted with the red LED on</li> <li>The machine seemingly flashed the firmware as it sat on a blue screen for a while</li> <li>The CRTouch LED turned purple I think when flashing ended, though I can't tell from my video</li> <li>When I got to the main menu, I started auto homing</li> <li>X and Y axes worked as expected</li> <li>For the Z axis, the probe centered on the build plate, deployed, and the LED turned blue</li> <li>The probe started lowering, contacted the plate and retracted. The LED turned to blinking red, maybe steady red first. The Z motor kept driving down so I killed the power</li> </ol> <p>The extruder fan also made a loud buzzing noise that gradually grew quieter. In the past I've noticed the buzzing seemingly get quieter when the probe is deployed or retracted.</p> <p>Anyone know what could be causing this, or how to troubleshoot it? Creality's firmware works as expected, so it's not a hardware problem. I was thinking maybe PB1 is wrong for the Ender 3 Pro, but from what I see online I gather it's the same mainboard between both printers.</p>

23070

What do I need to configure to get Marlin to run an Ender 3 Pro with CR Touch?

<p>I think this is an issue with Marlin v2.1.2.2, which I was trying to use. <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/26809" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/26809</a> this issue points to another bug with probing. My issue is different, but downgrading to 2.1.1 solved it.</p>

2024-02-29T01:28:02.490

|support-structures|

<p>I printed this on an Ender 3 S1 Pro at 215˚C with a 20% infill (actually 5 were printed at once). The print bed was leveled prior to print.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFddb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFddb.jpg" alt="The sphere with its bottom s" /></a></p> <p>When I tried to remove the supports, they took the bottom of the sphere off with them.</p> <p>How typical is this, and what parameters can I change to have the best chance of a successful print?</p>

23104

Help With Bottom of Sphere Coming off With Supports

<p>Have you seen question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13915/3d-printed-sphere-how-to-remove-roughness">3D Printed Sphere, How to Remove Roughness</a>? Although the question is centered around the roughness, not the supports, the answers hint to a solution for this question.</p> <p>If you look at the answers, you see that in case you have have unsupported perimeters (see image below), they sag out (as seen in your print where the lower perimeters of the sphere are not perectly round) and may fuse with the support causing the support and the perimiters (walls) to bond quite well.</p> <p>Furthermore, if you use too few perimeters and a low infill percentage, the print object will become weak and have an increased change that removing the print from the plate or the support from the print cause the print to break.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEqFf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEqFf.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>_{Picture credits to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13918/">Trish</a>, this is 180° rotated}</p>

2024-03-04T04:32:39.117

|creality-ender-3|hotend|klipper|

<h3>My Setup</h3> <ul> <li>Ender 3 Pro</li> <li>Creality Board v4.2.7</li> <li>Klipper Firmware (worked great with the stock Creality Bowden hotend and Creality Direct Drive Extruder)</li> <li>Brand new Creality Sprite Pro hotend.</li> </ul> <h3>Wiring</h3> <ul> <li>I have verified that the hotend heater cartridge is wired properly. In fact, if I reverse the polarity of the hotend heater, the LCD blinks on and off as if the board is continuously rebooting.</li> </ul> <h3>Problem</h3> <p>The hotend immediately starts heating at 100% (24 V DC) on startup without any command to do so.</p> <h3>What I've tried</h3> <ul> <li>I've unplugged the hot end heater (on the Sprite Pro head) and I see 24 V DC at the board nozzle output.</li> <li>If I unplug the ribbon cable on the sprite end, I see ~ 300 mV at the nozzle output.</li> </ul> <h3>Question</h3> <p>How do I stop the hot end from heating up on startup?</p> <p>Klipper printer.cfg:</p> <pre><code>[include moonraker_obico_macros.cfg] # This file contains pin mappings for the Creality &quot;v4.2.7&quot; board. To # use this config, during &quot;make menuconfig&quot; select the STM32F103 with # a &quot;28KiB bootloader&quot; and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9) communication. # If you prefer a direct serial connection, in &quot;make menuconfig&quot; # select &quot;Enable extra low-level configuration options&quot; and select # serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC # cable used for the LCD module as follows: # 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC # Flash this firmware by copying &quot;out/klipper.bin&quot; to a SD card and # turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware # filename must end in &quot;.bin&quot; and must not match the last filename # that was flashed. # See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters. [skew_correction] # [filament_switch_sensor runout_sensor] # pause_on_runout: True # switch_pin: PA4 [stepper_x] step_pin: PB9 dir_pin: PC2 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 39.83 endstop_pin: ^PA5 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 235 homing_speed: 50 [stepper_y] step_pin: PB7 dir_pin: PB8 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 39.78 endstop_pin: ^PA6 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 235 homing_speed: 50 [stepper_z] step_pin: PB5 dir_pin: !PB6 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 8 # position_endstop: 0.0 # disable to use BLTouch # endstop_pin: ^PA7 # disable to use BLTouch endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # enable to use BLTouch position_min: -5 # enable to use BLTouch position_max: 250 [safe_z_home] # enable for BLTouch home_xy_position: 157.5,120.5 speed: 100 z_hop: 10 z_hop_speed: 5 [bltouch] # enable for BLTouch - fast-mode sensor_pin: PA7 control_pin: PB0 pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True probe_with_touch_mode: True # x_offset: -44 # modify as needed for bltouch location # y_offset: -6 # modify as needed for bltouch location x_offset: -28 # For the sprite y_offset: -40 # For the sprite #z_offset: 0.0 # modify as needed for bltouch or run PROBE_CALIBRATE speed: 10 sample_retract_dist: 5.0 # Can be set lower, example 2.5 depending on height of bltouch from bed lift_speed: 40 samples_tolerance_retries: 3 speed: 10 samples: 1 [bed_mesh] speed: 80 horizontal_move_z: 5 mesh_min: 18,18 mesh_max: 175,202 probe_count: 5,5 algorithm: bicubic # manual Bed adjustment via BED_SCREWS_ADJUST [bed_screws] screw1: 72.5, 41.5 screw1_name: front left screw screw2: 198.5,35.5 screw2_name: front right screw screw3: 198.5,205.5 screw3_name: rear right screw screw4: 28.5,205.5 screw4_name: rear left screw horizontal_move_z: 10 speed: 50 [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 72.5, 41.5 screw1_name: front left screw screw2: 220,41.5 screw2_name: front right screw screw3: 220,212.5 screw3_name: rear right screw screw4: 72.5,212.5 screw4_name: rear left screw horizontal_move_z: 10 speed: 50 screw_thread: CW-M4 [input_shaper] shaper_freq_x: 100 shaper_freq_y: 100 shaper_type: mzv [gcode_macro G29] gcode: G28 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE G0 X0 Y0 Z10 F6000 BED_MESH_PROFILE save=default SAVE_CONFIG [extruder] max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0 step_pin: PB3 dir_pin: PB4 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 33.500 nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: PA1 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 control: pid pid_Kp: 21.527 pid_Ki: 1.063 pid_Kd: 108.982 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 250 [heater_bed] heater_pin: PA2 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC4 control: pid pid_Kp: 54.027 pid_Ki: 0.770 pid_Kd: 948.182 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 130 #[fan] #pin: PA0 [fan] pin: PA0 [mcu] serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 restart_method: command [printer] kinematics: cartesian max_velocity: 300 max_accel: 3000 max_accel_to_decel: 3000 max_z_velocity: 5 max_z_accel: 100 [display] lcd_type: st7920 cs_pin: PB12 sclk_pin: PB13 sid_pin: PB15 encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10 click_pin: ^!PB2 [gcode_macro G29] gcode: G28 G1 Z10 F600 BED_MESH_CLEAR BED_MESH_CALIBRATE BED_MESH_PROFILE SAVE=default SAVE_CONFIG [temperature_sensor raspberry_pi] sensor_type: temperature_host min_temp: 10 max_temp: 100 [temperature_sensor mcu_temp] sensor_type: temperature_mcu min_temp: 0 max_temp: 100 [board_pins] aliases: EXP1_1=PC6,EXP1_3=PB10,EXP1_5=PB14,EXP1_7=PB12,EXP1_9=&lt;GND&gt;, EXP1_2=PB2,EXP1_4=PB11,EXP1_6=PB13,EXP1_8=PB15,EXP1_10=&lt;5V&gt;, PROBE_IN=PB0,PROBE_OUT=PB1,FIL_RUNOUT=PC6 [exclude_object] [include mainsail.cfg] [include timelapse.cfg] [gcode_macro do_the_mesh] gcode: BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=&quot;default&quot; SKEW_PROFILE LOAD=my_skew_profile description: Either load the default mesh or perform a mesh load operation. #*# &lt;---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ----------------------&gt; #*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated. #*# #*# [bltouch] #*# z_offset = 1.420 #*# #*# [bed_mesh default] #*# version = 1 #*# points = #*# 0.005000, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.015000, -0.017500 #*# 0.032500, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.042500, -0.047500 #*# 0.105000, 0.022500, 0.020000, -0.045000, -0.077500 #*# 0.140000, 0.080000, 0.055000, 0.015000, 0.022500 #*# 0.225000, 0.182500, 0.147500, 0.077500, 0.067500 #*# x_count = 5 #*# y_count = 5 #*# mesh_x_pps = 2 #*# mesh_y_pps = 2 #*# algo = bicubic #*# tension = 0.2 #*# min_x = 18.0 #*# max_x = 175.0 #*# min_y = 18.0 #*# max_y = 202.0 #*# #*# [skew_correction my_skew_profile] #*# xy_skew = -0.0008053242270892168 #*# xz_skew = 0.0 #*# yz_skew = 0.0 <span class="math-container">```</span> </code></pre>

23117

Creality Sprite Pro Immediately starts heating hotend on startup

<p>After much gnashing of teeth, I determined that the problem revolved around the Z-stop wire from the 40 conductor cable being connected.</p> <p>The Sprite Pro is equipped with a 5-pin BL Touch connector. For whatever reason, having the 2-pin connector plugged into the Z-stop port causes the nozzle heater output to peg at 24 V DC.</p> <h3>Updated printer.cfg</h3> <pre><code>[include moonraker_obico_macros.cfg] # This file contains pin mappings for the Creality &quot;v4.2.7&quot; board. To # use this config, during &quot;make menuconfig&quot; select the STM32F103 with # a &quot;28KiB bootloader&quot; and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9) communication. # If you prefer a direct serial connection, in &quot;make menuconfig&quot; # select &quot;Enable extra low-level configuration options&quot; and select # serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10), which is broken out on the 10 pin IDC # cable used for the LCD module as follows: # 3: Tx, 4: Rx, 9: GND, 10: VCC # Flash this firmware by copying &quot;out/klipper.bin&quot; to a SD card and # turning on the printer with the card inserted. The firmware # filename must end in &quot;.bin&quot; and must not match the last filename # that was flashed. # See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters. [skew_correction] # [filament_switch_sensor runout_sensor] # pause_on_runout: True # switch_pin: PA4 [stepper_x] step_pin: PB9 dir_pin: PC2 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 39.83 endstop_pin: ^PA5 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 235 homing_speed: 50 [stepper_y] step_pin: PB7 dir_pin: PB8 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 39.78 endstop_pin: ^PA6 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 235 homing_speed: 50 [stepper_z] step_pin: PB5 dir_pin: !PB6 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 8 # position_endstop: 0.0 # disable to use BLTouch # endstop_pin: ^PA7 # disable to use BLTouch endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # enable to use BLTouch position_min: -5 # enable to use BLTouch position_max: 250 [safe_z_home] # enable for BLTouch # home_xy_position: 157.5,120.5 home_xy_position: 139.5,169 speed: 100 z_hop: 10 z_hop_speed: 5 [bltouch] # enable for BLTouch - fast-mode # sensor_pin: PA7 # 3 pin connector plus separate z endstop sensor_pin: ^PB1 # 5 pin connector: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/pw1eyq/printercfg_with_bltouch_for_klipper/ control_pin: PB0 pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: True probe_with_touch_mode: True # x_offset: -44 # modify as needed for bltouch location # y_offset: -6 # modify as needed for bltouch location x_offset: -30 # For the sprite y_offset: -41.5 # For the sprite #z_offset: 0.0 # modify as needed for bltouch or run PROBE_CALIBRATE speed: 10 sample_retract_dist: 5.0 # Can be set lower, example 2.5 depending on height of bltouch from bed lift_speed: 40 samples_tolerance_retries: 3 speed: 10 samples: 1 [bed_mesh] speed: 80 horizontal_move_z: 5 mesh_min: 18,18 mesh_max: 175,202 probe_count: 5,5 algorithm: bicubic # manual Bed adjustment via BED_SCREWS_ADJUST [bed_screws] screw1: 72.5, 41.5 screw1_name: front left screw screw2: 198.5,35.5 screw2_name: front right screw screw3: 198.5,205.5 screw3_name: rear right screw screw4: 28.5,205.5 screw4_name: rear left screw horizontal_move_z: 10 speed: 50 [screws_tilt_adjust] screw1: 72.5, 41.5 screw1_name: front left screw screw2: 220,41.5 screw2_name: front right screw screw3: 220,212.5 screw3_name: rear right screw screw4: 72.5,212.5 screw4_name: rear left screw horizontal_move_z: 10 speed: 50 screw_thread: CW-M4 [input_shaper] shaper_freq_x: 100 shaper_freq_y: 100 shaper_type: mzv [gcode_macro G29] gcode: G28 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE G0 X0 Y0 Z10 F6000 BED_MESH_PROFILE save=default SAVE_CONFIG [extruder] max_extrude_only_distance: 100.0 step_pin: PB3 dir_pin: PB4 enable_pin: !PC3 microsteps: 16 # rotation_distance: 33.500 # for stock extruder rotation_distance: 7.53 # for sprite pro nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: PA1 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 #control: pid #pid_Kp: 21.527 #pid_Ki: 1.063 #pid_Kd: 108.982 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 250 [heater_bed] heater_pin: PA2 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC4 control: pid pid_Kp: 54.027 pid_Ki: 0.770 pid_Kd: 948.182 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 130 #[fan] #pin: PA0 [fan] pin: PA0 [mcu] serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 restart_method: command [printer] kinematics: cartesian max_velocity: 300 max_accel: 3000 max_accel_to_decel: 3000 max_z_velocity: 5 max_z_accel: 100 [display] lcd_type: st7920 cs_pin: PB12 sclk_pin: PB13 sid_pin: PB15 encoder_pins: ^PB14, ^PB10 click_pin: ^!PB2 [gcode_macro G29] gcode: G28 G1 Z10 F600 BED_MESH_CLEAR BED_MESH_CALIBRATE BED_MESH_PROFILE SAVE=default SAVE_CONFIG [temperature_sensor raspberry_pi] sensor_type: temperature_host min_temp: 10 max_temp: 100 [temperature_sensor mcu_temp] sensor_type: temperature_mcu min_temp: 0 max_temp: 100 [board_pins] aliases: EXP1_1=PC6,EXP1_3=PB10,EXP1_5=PB14,EXP1_7=PB12,EXP1_9=&lt;GND&gt;, EXP1_2=PB2,EXP1_4=PB11,EXP1_6=PB13,EXP1_8=PB15,EXP1_10=&lt;5V&gt;, PROBE_IN=PB0,PROBE_OUT=PB1,FIL_RUNOUT=PC6 [exclude_object] [include mainsail.cfg] [include timelapse.cfg] [gcode_macro do_the_mesh] gcode: BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=&quot;default&quot; SKEW_PROFILE LOAD=my_skew_profile description: Either load the default mesh or perform a mesh load operation. #*# &lt;---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ----------------------&gt; #*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated. #*# #*# [bltouch] #*# z_offset = 4.350 #*# #*# [bed_mesh default] #*# version = 1 #*# points = #*# 0.005000, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.015000, -0.017500 #*# 0.032500, -0.022500, -0.015000, -0.042500, -0.047500 #*# 0.105000, 0.022500, 0.020000, -0.045000, -0.077500 #*# 0.140000, 0.080000, 0.055000, 0.015000, 0.022500 #*# 0.225000, 0.182500, 0.147500, 0.077500, 0.067500 #*# x_count = 5 #*# y_count = 5 #*# mesh_x_pps = 2 #*# mesh_y_pps = 2 #*# algo = bicubic #*# tension = 0.2 #*# min_x = 18.0 #*# max_x = 175.0 #*# min_y = 18.0 #*# max_y = 202.0 #*# #*# [skew_correction my_skew_profile] #*# xy_skew = -0.0008053242270892168 #*# xz_skew = 0.0 #*# yz_skew = 0.0 #*# #*# [extruder] #*# control = pid #*# pid_kp = 19.488 #*# pid_ki = 1.101 #*# pid_kd = 86.236 <span class="math-container">```</span> </code></pre>

2024-03-04T11:54:16.633

|g-code|creality-ender-5|usb|serial-connection|

<p>I recently started experimenting with sending G-code to my printer via USB cable. I downloaded <a href="https://github.com/kliment/Printrun" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printrun</a> and it works great! <strong>However, I want to be able to do this from my web browser because the app im developing is web based.</strong></p> <p>I found this Chrome app called <a href="https://github.com/sir-buckyball/chrome-gcode-sender" rel="nofollow noreferrer">chrome-gcode-sender</a> that does this but it unfortunately no longer works because Google sadly ended support for all Chrome apps in June 2022.</p> <p>The maker of this app <a href="https://github.com/sir-buckyball/chrome-gcode-sender/issues/57#issuecomment-1263096900" rel="nofollow noreferrer">suggested on GitHub</a> that the same thing should be achievable using <a href="https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/Web_Serial_API" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Web Serial API</a>. I have been trying to get this to work for almost two days now but with little success. I found several tutorials online about how to use Web Serial API but nothing for this specific use case. <strong>Here is a sample of the code I have developed so far, just a simple HTML document with some vanilla JavaScript:</strong></p> <pre><code>&lt;html&gt; &lt;head&gt; &lt;title&gt;Web Serial API Demo&lt;/title&gt; &lt;/head&gt; &lt;body&gt; &lt;button id=&quot;connect&quot;&gt;Connect&lt;/button&gt; &lt;script&gt; var device let button = document.getElementById(&quot;connect&quot;) document.addEventListener(&quot;DOMContentLoaded&quot;, event =&gt; { button.addEventListener(&quot;click&quot;, async() =&gt; { try { device = await navigator.serial.requestPort() await device.open({baudRate: 9600}) console.log(&quot;Opened: &quot;, device) console.log(&quot;Info: &quot;, device.getInfo()) const encoder = new TextEncoder() const writer = device.writable.getWriter() await writer.write(encoder.encode(&quot;G28&quot;)) writer.releaseLock() await device.close() } catch (error) { console.log(error) } }) }) &lt;/script&gt; &lt;/body&gt; &lt;/html&gt; </code></pre> <p>When I click the 'Connect' button and select the device I want it appears to connect fine. However, when I try to send a simple G-code like <code>G28</code> (<em>autohome</em>) the printer does nothing. If anyone has an idea how I could get this working please let me know! Im also 100 % open to an alternative approach! <strong>The main idea is just to be able to send G-code from a browser to a printer.</strong></p> <p><strong>Notes:</strong></p> <ul> <li>I've also tried experimenting with <a href="https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/WebUSB_API" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Web USB API</a> but no luck here as well.</li> </ul>

23119

Can I use Web Serial API to send G-code to my Ender 5 Pro?

<p>Finally, got it! I was very close, but two changes needed to be made to the above code for the example to work.</p> <ol> <li><p>The <code>baudRate</code> needed to be changed to <code>115200</code>. This value can vary from printer to printer but <code>115200</code> is fairly common, and thus a good default. If you find it's not working for you try looking up the recommended <code>baudRate</code> for your printer/firmware version.</p> </li> <li><p>I needed to add <code>\n</code> to the end of my G-code string. In this example there was only one command, <code>G28\n</code> but if you want multiple commands in a single string you will need to add <code>\n</code> after each one.</p> </li> </ol> <p>Awesome!!! It is possible to send G-code to a printer from a web browser with just a few lines of JavaScript!</p> <p><strong>Update:</strong> If anyone is interested I built <a href="https://jgphilpott.github.io/polyslice/serial/browser/sender.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this simple terminal-style app</a>. It should work with any <a href="https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/Web_Serial_API#browser_compatibility" rel="nofollow noreferrer">compatible browser</a> and is also usable offline if you clone the repo and open the <code>sender.html</code> file in your browser.</p>

2024-03-04T20:00:28.877

|extruder|underextrusion|retraction|monoprice-maker-select|wanhao|

<p>I am getting this under extrusion on my prints but only after travel moves. The rest of the print looks fine.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpCLg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GpCLg.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NugLo.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NugLo.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>My printer is a Monoprice Maker Select V2 (rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2) with a DiiiCooler with a radial fan. I was using Repetier 0.92.9 but have upgraded the firmware to Marlin bugfix-2.1.x commit 9e879a5b.</p> <p>I'm using Cura 5.6.0 and the default Draft profile with the following settings changed:</p> <ul> <li>Wall Thickness: 1.2 mm</li> <li>Print Thin Walls: True</li> <li>Infill Density: 10%</li> <li>Infill Pattern: gyroid</li> <li>Print Speed: 50 mm/s</li> <li>Travel Speed: 150 mm/s</li> <li>Initial Layer Print Speed: 20 mm/s</li> </ul> <p>I'm printing with Inland Turquoise PLA at 215 °C and the build plate at 60 °C.</p> <p>I am printing <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4653297" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kersey Fabrications Speed Test</a>.</p> <p>I'm pulling my hair out. I've tried the following without making much headway:</p> <ul> <li>Completely disabled retraction - made the problem worse</li> <li>Replaced the nozzle with a Micro Swiss Nickel Plated Brass 0.4 mm Nozzle for PTFE lined hotend and replaced the PTFE tube - no improvement</li> <li>Lowered the temperature to 205 °C - no improvement</li> <li>Changed firmware from Repetier 0.92.9 to Marlin bugfix-2.1.x commit 9e879a5b - no improvement</li> <li>Enabled linear advance and tuned it using <a href="https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/pressure_linear_advance/pattern_method.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these instructions</a>. The test pattern looked best at 0.25 but that only made a slight improvement to the issue</li> <li>Set &quot;Max Comb Distance With No Retract&quot; to 10 mm - slight improvement</li> <li>Tried different filament (Inland Black PLA+) - no improvement</li> <li>Disabled &quot;Print Thin Walls&quot; - no improvement</li> <li>Lowered part cooling fan speed to 25% - no improvement</li> <li>Changed the following: - no improvement <ul> <li>Printing acceleration 600-&gt;1500</li> <li>Retract acceleration 3000-&gt;2000</li> <li>Travel acceleration 3000-&gt;2000</li> <li>Junction deviation 0.2-&gt;0.1</li> </ul> </li> <li>Lowered &quot;E maximum acceleration&quot; from 10000-&gt;100 - no improvement</li> <li>Checked the extruder gear and it was clean. It has the newer D4 style extruder gear, not the duller slightly hobbed gear that Wanhao originally used.</li> <li>I did the <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Teaching Tech 3D Retraction Tuning</a> with a base feedrate of 60 mm/s.</li> </ul> <p>For the first print, I did 0.5-3 mm distance, 50 mm/s retract, 20 mm/s advance. There was very slight stringing at 0.5 mm and none in the other sections. All of the sections had slightly jagged edges except for 1 mm.</p> <p>For the second print, I did 1 mm distance, 20-70 mm/s retract, 20 mm/s advance. There was no stringing and I didn't see any apparent difference between the sections.</p> <p>For the third print, I did 1 mm distance, 50 mm/s retract, 10-50 mm/s advance. Again, no stringing and no differences between the sections.</p> <p>None of the three prints showed any signs of under-extrusion.</p> <ul> <li><p>I printed the <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#accel" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Teaching Tech 3D Acceleration Tuning Tower</a> and it has the same under extrusion issue in the back left corner inner wall. This would seem to rule out any slicer settings being the cause of this.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxG6q.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxG6q.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> </li> <li><p>I took apart the extruder and found that the v-groove idler wheel that pushes the filament against the extruder gear was full of grease.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGjm7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGjm7.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> </li> </ul> <p>It didn't spin freely, it turned but felt mushy. I cleaned the grease from the wheel and the surrounding area and added a drop of sewing machine oil to each side of the wheel. After that, it spun freely.</p> <p>I did a cold check of my extruder steps with the extruder removed and found that it matched what I found earlier when I checked it hot through the hotend.</p> <p>After reassembling the extruder, I reprinted the acceleration tuning tower from the same G-code as before but I saw no improvement to the under extrusion.</p> <ul> <li>I took apart the hot end and replaced the PTFE tube again. I was very careful to cut it perfectly straight and exactly the right length so that it was touching each end but not compressed. I also added Kingpin Cooling KPx thermal grease between the heat break tube and the cooling block and between the cooling block and the heatsink. After reassembling everything, I printed the acceleration tuning tower again but saw no improvement.</li> <li>Printed the acceleration tuning tower at 30 mm/s, 0.5 mm retract, and 0.13 linear advance - no improvement</li> <li>Printed the acceleration tuning tower at 225 °C, 195 °C, and 185 °C - no improvement</li> <li>Checked extruder stepper current voltage reference on the Melzi board. I had adjusted the voltage for all four steppers years ago. The extruder stepper is rated for 1.02 A but the voltage reference was set to 0.695 V (0.87 A 85% of rated). It should be set to 90%. Either I set it wrong or it had drifted even though the other three were correct). I tried printing with it set to the factory setting of 0.886 V (1.1 A 109%) and the correct 0.734 V (0.92 A 90%) - no improvement either way</li> <li>As suggested in the comments, printed the acceleration tuning tower with linear advance set to 0.04 and retraction distance set to 0.4 mm - no improvement.</li> </ul>

23122

What is causing this under extrusion that only happens after travel moves

<p>Printing with a brand new roll of Polymaker PolyLite grey PLA seems to have fixed the problem. I'll have to redo all of my tuning and do some more tests, but there's no sign of the under extrusion so far.</p> <p>I ran out of the Inland turquoise PLA doing all my testing but I have tried drying the Inland black PLA+. I've dried it a total of 36 hours now at 50 °C and it made no improvement to the under extrusion issue. 24 hours of that was in a Sunlu S1 filament dryer (the original model without a fan) in 6 and 12 hour increments. 12 hours of that was in a convection toaster oven converted to a reflow oven with a <a href="https://whizoo.com/products/controleo3-reflow-oven-controller" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Controleo3 kit</a>. I tried drying with and without desiccant packs in both the filament dryer and the reflow oven.</p> <p>I don't know how or why the filament degraded but it does not seem to be due to any current moisture content.</p>