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2021-11-14T00:07:35.113 | |pla|glue| | <p>I have printed some connectors from PLA, in order to make a frame for a "tent" cover for my Ender3 printer</p>
<p>Since printing rods would be a long process with likely poor results, I'm using some cheap thin-walled metal tubes as the main structure, and printing the corners.</p>
<p>I plan on using 2 part epoxy to secure the metal rods into the sockets in my printed part, but can find no real chart of what glue to use with which FDM plastics.</p>
<p><strong>Is 2 part epoxy a suitable adhesive for PLA and other hard items?</strong></p>
| 18372 | What is the best glue for the task of assembling a 3D printed part with other materials? | <p>Confirmed - 2 part epoxy works fine between PLA and other things.</p>
<p>I used "selleys" brand, and found that the fastest-setting 5 minute version worked fine, but on paper produces a "weaker" bond than the slow-curing one.</p>
<p>The 5 minute version also has a distinct odour of cat pee, which is not present in the slow version.</p>
<p>Downside, the slow version took 2 days to harden completely, but my item is definitely secured together well.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/adhesives/heavy-duty-repairs/selleys-araldite-super-strength/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.selleys.co.nz/products/adhesives/heavy-duty-repairs/selleys-araldite-super-strength/</a></p>
<p>NOTE that the above link says</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Not suitable for bonding plastics such as Polypropylene and Polyethylene</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQwRG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQwRG.jpg" alt="Own work" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJwvd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJwvd.jpg" alt="Own work" /></a></p>
|
2021-11-14T10:36:22.587 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|thermal-runaway| | <p>My Ender 3 Pro started throwing the Thermal Runaway E1 error last week. Previous to that I had not modified or changed anything on the printer in months, other than move it's location. I replaced the thermistor yesterday and set off a test print but got the same error.</p>
<p>Is this an issue with the motherboard? Or with the heater cartridge?</p>
<p>Printer specs:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ender 3 Pro</li>
<li>Creality 4.2.7 silent motherboard</li>
<li>all metal dual gear extruder</li>
<li>Glass bed</li>
<li>stock everything else</li>
</ul>
| 18373 | Sporadic thermal runaway E1 error on Ender 3 Pro, continues after thermistor replacement. What could be the cause? | <p>I solved this issue by using a multimeter to measure the resistance across both the thermistor and the heater cartridge. The resistance for the Ender 3 Pro are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Thermistor ~ 100k ohms</li>
<li>Heater Cartridge ~ 14.4 ohms</li>
</ul>
<p>My thermistor showed a resistance within the correct value, however my heater cartridge had a resistance of 0 ohms.</p>
|
2021-11-15T00:04:26.040 | |makerbot|usb|replicator+| | <p>I am at a school with several Makerbot Replicator+ – a total of 9 of them.</p>
<p>So, they seem to print fine and I can hook up to two of them to one laptop (they are some Lenovo models from a few years back) using Makerbot Print. Well and good.</p>
<p>But I wanted to hook them up to my MacBook Pro (2020, OS X Catalina) with the USB cables, and the MacBook doesn't seem to "read" the printers, it's like they aren't even there. Makerbot Print (latest version) doesn't seem to "see" that they are hooked up. I checked the system prefs to see if the Makerbots showed up as connected USB devices and they don't seem to be there either.</p>
<p>Now, I am connecting via the USB cables and then through an adapter that connects the USB-A to USB-C. If I should just use a USB-B to USB-C cable (I ordered one to test it) then fine, I'll do that. I just wanted to check that there wasn't some other problem or if anyone else had this issue.</p>
<p>Next up: USB hubs. Makerbot says they don't recommend it, but sometimes I have to print out lots of stuff at once for student projects and I can't tie up multiple laptops for hours-long prints. I have done the technique of leaving stuff all night but that's hit or miss – if something goes wrong I am not there to stop the print (at least once something got unstuck from the build plate and I ended up with an extruder with the end encased in hard plastic like a stalactite. Unless I basically blowtorch it off... )</p>
<p>So, the question(s) is/are:</p>
<p>Any recommendations for USB hubs? (I would do wireless but that I am less sure of, and it seems easier, faster, and more reliable to link up through USB. The wireless connection always drops).</p>
<p>Any recommendations for the MacBook issue? Is it just a matter of finding the right cable? (it's certainly possible my $10 USB-A to USB-C adapter plugs aren't well designed, and I should just go for direct cabling)</p>
<p>Any recommendations for a good USB hub to link a Mac (or anything else) to Makerbots?</p>
<p>Thanks for your time and help. I do hope I am not duplicating a post but I don't see anything in my searches that addresses the specific issues I have; though it's possible I didn't use the right search terms.</p>
| 18376 | Want to connect Makerbot Replicator+ to Mac and several to USB hub | <p>You can use Simplify3D to slice your .STL files into .X3G needed for the Makerbot. You can either connect to the printer via USB or export the .X3G file to an SD card for use in the printer. Hope this helps!</p>
|
2021-11-16T23:57:43.777 | |pla|filament-choice|power-supply| | <p>I have some relay boards which I want to build into a case for my Pi. The relays are GPIO controlled and will turn on/off things like a 12 volt DC light, and the 240 volt 50 hertz AC printer itself. The relays are rated for these levels and current draws.</p>
<p>However I would prefer to put the pi and its relays inside a case. No commercial case exists to neatly hold the relays, so I have to design and print something.</p>
<ul>
<li>What filaments can and can't be used to encase mains voltages?</li>
<li>What other considerations should be accounted for - minimum thickness?</li>
</ul>
| 18381 | What filaments are appropriate for a case that will contain mains voltage wiring? | <p>Any filament except made-to-be-conductive metal infused filaments should be capable of acting as a suitable insulator, but you'll also want to consider things like failure modes under overheating, mechanical damage, whether it might be subject to spills of conductive fluids, etc. These are not so much a matter of filament choice as structural design and safety design on the electrical level (proper fuses, etc.), and may involve compliance with electrical code. I think those questions are outside the scope of 3D Printing SE, but would be appropriate on a sister site like DIY or Electronics.</p>
<p>From the 3D printing side, you might want to avoid PLA unless you can guarantee shutoff if anything exeeds about 55˚C, since you'll quickly get warping and loss of structural integrity past that. Although I do have an under-hood automotive part in PLA (wiper fluid connector) that's held up fine for a few years now. PETG or ABS/ASA would probably be preferable.</p>
|
2021-11-17T03:22:55.933 | |ultimaker-cura|creality-cr-10|stringing| | <p>Here are the details:</p>
<ul>
<li>Creality CR 10-S5</li>
<li>BLTouch leveling sensor</li>
<li>Micro Swiss Direct Drive filament upgrade kit</li>
<li>Bed is 66 °C.</li>
</ul>
<p>I tried dozens of temperatures starting at 205 °C and going all the way down to 180 °C pretty much 1 °C at a time. The present temperature of 188 °C seems to generate a higher stickiness to the bed than other temperatures.</p>
<p>I have also adjusted the flow rate down to 47% and that, although it did help with the stringing, didn't fix it completely and made the whole print super weak. I have discovered going below 80% is structurally a bad idea. I wouldn't mind having it at 90% either.</p>
<p>I am trying different retraction speeds and distances now currently testing 5 mm and 70 mm/s retraction. Previously I tried 4 mm with 60 mm/s and it didn't help.</p>
<p>Using a lower filament flow rate (about <60%) did prevent it from going all the way across at approx 50 mm/s, but alas <60% is too weak structurally. And didn't solve it completely. The tips had a Y-shaped split top on both sides with the one side of the Y being straight as it is part of the tower.</p>
<p>Any suggestions to rid me of this are welcome. Reminder flow rate below 80% is too weak, and 188 °C is preferred.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aj0KO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D printed retraction tower showing stringing"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aj0KO.jpg" alt="3D printed retraction tower showing stringing" title="3D printed retraction tower showing stringing" /></a></p>
| 18382 | Fixing stringing within <80% flow print out is weak | <p>The picture looks like classic Cura misbehavior - it's skipping retractions that need to happen because it's done "too many" already. You should be able to confirm this by looking at the gcode in an analyzer that shows retractions or watching the print. Set "Minimum Extrusion Distance Window" to 0 to fix the problem.</p>
<p>You should not be reducing flow at all, and certainly not by more than a few percent. Put it back to 100%.</p>
|
2021-11-17T06:03:21.683 | |electronics|stepper| | <p>I'm struggling to find the name of a connector I just broke, so I can order a new one.</p>
<p>It's a six pin nylon terminal, that plugs into a set of header pins on a stepper motor.</p>
<p>What do I search for to find these?! Also, how would I go about finding something like this in the future? I seem to struggle to find connectors.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejbJR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Connector"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejbJR.jpg" alt="Connector" title="Connector" /></a></p>
| 18385 | What is this stepper motor connector called? | <p>Short answer: It's probably 6 pin JST PH</p>
<p>Long answer:</p>
<p>Without seeing the socket, it's hard to say for sure, however most Nema 17 stepper motors use 6 pin JST PH connectors with 2.0mm pitch on the motor side. Many control boards use JST XH connectors with 2.5mm pitch on the board side. The two are not compatible with each other due to a difference in pitch and the locking mechanism.</p>
<p>Looking at the sockets there is a clear visual difference: PH has a wide cutout while XH has two slots.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rrxs3.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rrxs3.png" alt="PH 6 pin socket" /></a>
PH vs XH
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/szUJt.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/szUJt.png" alt="XJ 6 pin socket" /></a></p>
<p>The difference on the plug side is more subtle. XH has small hooks that grab onto the slots while PH has not.</p>
<p>There's a good reference at <a href="http://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/common-jst-connector-types/" rel="noreferrer">mattmillan.com</a> which helps to identify different types of JST connectors.</p>
<p>EDIT: Usually the easiest and the cheapest option is to buy a pre-made stepper motor cable that fits your control board. However if it's not available in a length you need or re-wiring is hard, you will need connectors and a crimp tool with jaws specifically made for these types of connectors. The cheapest option is probably to borrow one if you can, these can cost a pretty penny.</p>
<p>Answering the second part of your question is tricky. Searching through parts catalogs is too time consuming. Using google image search or google lens to search with images taken from multiple angles is a good start to narrow it down but does not guarantee success.</p>
|
2021-11-21T00:08:22.457 | |creality-ender-3|calibration| | <p>Alright, long story but I want to provide as much detail as possible:</p>
<p>I have a heavily modded Ender 3 Pro. Mods include:</p>
<ul>
<li>Metal Extruder</li>
<li>Capricorn PTFE tube</li>
<li>Glass bed with improved leveling nuts</li>
<li>BLTouch</li>
<li>LED strip</li>
<li>Dual Z-axis motors with the recent addition of BTT E3 RRF control board (and IDEX module so that it could do <code>G34</code> auto-align) (most recent additions)</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm using Overture Brand white PLA and for the first print that messed up (pic below), I was using the default "generic PLA" Cura settings for an Ender 3 pro.</p>
<p><strong>The problem:</strong></p>
<p>Anyhow, it caused this kind of print:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/46TAX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D benchy with printing errors"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/46TAX.jpg" alt="3D benchy with printing errors" title="3D benchy with printing errors" /></a></p>
<p>There are a few angles where it actually looks pretty good. The hull is fairly smooth, the first layer went down well, the roofs and bridging look tolerable, but as you can see, especially around the "pillars" it looks I don't know... under-extruded? Like the lines don't connect very strongly. In fact, it might be hard to tell from this photo but the bottom actually ripped off when I took it off the plate, mostly due to weak connections between each layer.</p>
<p><strong>What I've tried:</strong></p>
<p>I pretty much went step by step through Teaching Tech's <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro" rel="nofollow noreferrer">calibration guide</a>.</p>
<ul>
<li>I started by getting out my bubble level and 90-degree gauge and just making sure the frame/bed/everything was level and perpendicular to each other and everything.</li>
<li>I did the E-steps calibration until I reliably got 100 mm when I asked for 100 mm</li>
<li>My first layer had never been a problem (especially with BLTouch and glass bed), so I skipped that step.</li>
<li>I did the baseline print. My first one looked like the top of the cube had some under extrusion (you can see through it if you look closely in this photo
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnEzD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnEzD.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></li>
<li>I did the slicer flow calibration and actually it came out a little tiny bit too big (which would indicate I need to turn down the flow), but as Teaching Tech mentioned at the bottom of the page, you can't always trust that so I didn't end up making any changes to flow.
<ul>
<li>Worth pointing out, in this photo of the Slicer Flow calibration cube, you can see some weird holes where the nozzle would be kinda late starting a line.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xyq9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xyq9.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>The stepper motor driver current thing confuses me but I had previously set the current of both Z-axis' to the values I've seen in several YouTube videos, including Aurora.tech's channel where she covered the same BTT IDEX board and dual Z's.</li>
<li>I did the temperature tuning and it seems like for this PLA 210 °C seems to work well.</li>
<li>At this point I felt like retraction tuning was the problem and would fix everything, but with the default speeds in Teaching Tech's sample print, distances from 0-8 mm didn't seem to do anything differently in this print:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUyXL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUyXL.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></li>
<li>I never ended up doing the acceleration tuning</li>
<li>For the linear advance, I changed the k value to 0.4</li>
<li>I don't have a dial gauge to do the XYZ steps calibration</li>
</ul>
<p>Long story short, with those few changes I redid the calibration cube and the benchy and they look maybe 5% better but still weird.</p>
<p>My Z-axis squeaks sometimes when moving through a spot 5-10 mm off the bed, so I lubricated them according to the <a href="https://letsprint3d.net/how-to-lubricate-z-axis-lead-screw-3d-printers/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">guide here</a>, but I did that prior to that second benchy so it didn't seem to solve it.</p>
<p>After I first posted this, I decided to dive deeper into that squeaky Z-axis. I triple, super-duper checked that both Z threaded rods were parallel to each other and neither was warped/curved/etc... They seem fine. I lubricated them both a bit more and using G-code told the printer to jog the Z-axis up and down the length of the rods about 20ish times. The squeak did eventually go away so I printed another benchy. No dice. Still looks bad.</p>
<p>Per Criggie's answer, I disabled the steppers and moved the axes around to see if they moved smoothly. Both X and Y move great with steppers disabled and then are pretty firm normally. Z is pretty stiff no matter what but that may be intentional. I previously had problems with my Z-axis falling down when prints were over so I <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lpc1bTsSpRA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">installed anti-backlash nuts</a> and with two anti-backlash nuts (one on each rod) I'm not surprised it doesn't want to fall. But again, when I just tell it to move, it moves very smoothly.
For instance, I just got out my micrometer and measured the Z movement. I told it to move 100 mm up using OctoPrint and measured the actual movement. Seemed to be 100 on the dot.</p>
<p>I have a BTT filament sensor in the filament path prior to the extruder. I noticed it provided a little friction and I was concerned it was making it hard for the extruder to pull the filament. I removed it, but no improvement in print quality.</p>
<p>One other strange thing I've noticed is the benchy always looks bad in the same spot (the pillars). Makes me wonder WHY it's always that exact spot, not randomly all over.</p>
<p>It's got to have something to do with under-extrusion or flow. I think I ruled out the Z-axis. I made a "tall" benchy by modifying the benchy file to have a platform underneath it. This bumped it up a few cm and the problem still happened in the same spot on the pillars of the benchy (which is now in a completely different spot on the Z.
Also, given the "flow" preview in Cura:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNvq4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNvq4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>That circled low flow area is where it always messes up.</p>
<p>So now to figure out why it's got low flow. Again, I calibrated the E-steps and it seems to be accurate. I've also printed benchy's where I told Cura to have 110% flow just to check. The last one I attempted didn't just fail, it failed big time and became a blob at that same spot.</p>
<p>I wonder if the extruder gear is worn and slipping and/or the Capricorn PTFE tube is too restrictive for the "budget" filament brand I'm using that might have trouble sliding through it. I have replacement steel extruder gears showing up Tuesday, will update my question then.</p>
| 18405 | Can't 'tune' out my problem, please help! | <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpqHy.jpg" alt="enter image description here" />
It was a worn extruder gear. I didn’t think it was THAT worn, and when I loosened it a bit and slid it a few mm so that the gear hit the filament in a fresh spot it didn’t improve. But new stainless steel gears showed up today and when I installed one it worked perfect. Same file/settings/gcode that had failed several times previously when testing other things</p>
|
2021-11-21T13:39:00.673 | |troubleshooting|power-supply|creality-cr-6| | <p>My printer seems to be responding poorly to some of the prints I provide it with. At a certain time, usually after at least half an hour.</p>
<p>For example, the print I tried today (twice) kept crashing somewhere after 52 minutes. Both times at the same spot. It would instantly reboot, ask to continue and even if I did it would crash again at the end of the backtracking.</p>
<p>A couple of things come to mind:</p>
<ul>
<li>PSU/motherboard responding poorly to some set of actions. Doing the same actions again triggers the same problem.</li>
<li>Slicer producing illegal actions in some situations, causing the motherboard to panic.</li>
<li>Firmware being bugged, responding poorly in some edge cases.</li>
</ul>
<p>Other prints work fine.</p>
<p>How would I go about finding what's causing the reboots?
As a workaround, I'd accept a method of finding out whether a specific print would have this behaviour (incl. looking at the resulting gcode if that helps), without having to waste an hour (or more) of time and material each time.</p>
<p>System:</p>
<ul>
<li>CR-6 SE.</li>
<li>Recent <a href="https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/tree/v2.0.7.3-cr6-community-release-6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Community Firmware</a>.</li>
<li>Stock parts except for the cold-end extruder, that's switched out for an all-metal dual-gear.</li>
<li>Creality Slicer 4.8.2.</li>
</ul>
<p><em>Note:</em> I feel obligated to mention the printer is on an unearthed power socket (old building, only ground floor has a couple of earthed sockets). This might make parts of the system less forgiving than it would otherwise, but I'm not sure about that. Internal wiring of the printer (for as much as it's accessible) seems fine.</p>
| 18409 | CR-6 SE rebooting at fixed moments in print | <p>Turns out this is the behaviour of files that get corrupted. This has very little to do with the slicer and everything with how some SD cards are just intent on getting themselves a bad name.</p>
<p>In this case, the file was corrupted enough not to be readable on the machine that put the data on there. If the file can't be opened and made look readable by a normal text editor, it's probably corrupted and not worth trying to print. A quick scroll-through to check it's all there might be a good idea as well.</p>
|
2021-11-21T17:46:06.583 | |hotend| | <p>I'm returning to 3d printing and there's all sorts of new things going on. One of which is a silicone sock. I suspect it's part of the engineering where you want to keep certain parts hot, and certain parts cold, and it assists with that, but I'm not sure. Internet searches have been degrading, and have degraded a lot in the past year or so, so I can't find anything on the subject on how and why, just products.</p>
<p>When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve?</p>
<p>My Ender 3v2 came with one, but apparently previous generations did not. My other printers do not have an option for them.</p>
| 18411 | When do you need a silicone sock? What problem does it solve? | <p>A silicone sock helps keep the heat from the hot end from radiating down onto the freshly-printed parts, which have a blower fan cooling them.</p>
<p>The sock also helps keep the hot end hot and away from that stream of room-temperature cooling air blowing at the part.</p>
<p>As such, the sock is a thermal isolator, helping to keep the hot bits hot and the cooler bits cool.</p>
<hr />
<p>Additionally, silicone rubber is pretty good at not sticking to hot filament. If your print goes bad and produces "spaghetti" then the sock will mitigate how much plastic gets stuck to the hot end.</p>
|
2021-11-21T20:00:59.077 | |petg| | <p>I have a local Microcenter and got some cool orange PETG+. I've never printed with PETG before, but this PETG+ stuff seems flexible and weak. I printed a random part with some thin walls, and when I squeezed it, I broke the thin walls. Interestingly, not across layer lines. The same part in ASA (or ABS? I can't recall) is sufficiently strong and durable, and much less flexible.</p>
<p>I'm reprinting at 100% infill (the first one was 20%), but looking at the place that it broke, I don't see infill. It's ~2 mm thick there, so I'm pretty sure that it's solid. I printed at 240 °C, and my reprint is going at 250 °C.</p>
<p>I'd like to check what this PETG+ stuff is better at than regular PETG, so I'd like to look at what the manufacturer has to say about it, and the rest of the internet. Who makes this?</p>
<p>We know that Inland PLA+ is made by eSun, and when I mentioned that to the local Microcenter 3D printer expert, he said as much too. Here's a <a href="https://old.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ki76dj/inland_petg_is_working_pretty_well_so_far/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">reddit post</a> speculating.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.microcenter.com/product/626527/inland-175mm-orange-petg-3d-printer-filament-1kg-spool-(22-lbs)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Product page</a></p>
| 18413 | What OEM is Inland PETG+? | <p>I talked to the guy at the local Micro Center. He said that Inland PETG+ was OEM'd by eSun, and that Inland PETG was OEM'd by Polymaker.</p>
|
2021-11-22T14:18:17.270 | |creality-ender-3|power-supply| | <p>Started up my Ender 3 today and the print killed halfway because my cat was messing with the cable to my octopi, but when I went to shut it off to reboot and the actual switch seems permanently on (as in stays on regardless of position). do I need a new PSU? and is this a known issue?</p>
| 18425 | My Ender 3 Pro power switch is stuck to on | <p>The mains switch is easily replaced - the part is widely available. Just make sure that the spade connectors go on securely and to the same positions as the old one.</p>
<p>Here's how the wires are connected in my Ender 3's mains input:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N8KxQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N8KxQ.jpg" alt="Ender 3 mains input" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/B1Eq9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/B1Eq9.jpg" alt="Ender 3 mains input, different angle" /></a></p>
<p>The IEC mains connector is on the right in the first image. You can see the yellow wire goes to the earth connection of the PSU. The black wire goes to the neutral connection of the PSU. The live input goes via a wire strip to one end of the fuse, the other end of the fuse is connected to the central pole of the switch, and the on-position of the switch is connected to the live connection of the PSU via the red wire which leaves the picture.</p>
<p>The switch is on the left in the first image, and at the bottom in the second image.</p>
|
2021-11-22T23:07:32.380 | |scanning| | <p>Will a 3D scanner capture internal details within an enclosure?</p>
<p>I'm contemplating buying a 3D scanner, but they're pretty expensive so I'm looking for advice on whether they will actually be useful for the projects I have in mind. So with the picture below as an example, could I expect to generate a usable STL file by scanning this?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYiDz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYiDz.jpg" alt="Object" /></a></p>
| 18428 | 3D scanner capabilities | <p>Yes, 3D scanners can do that, provided that all surfaces are in sight of the scanner.</p>
<p>Within our company we scan complex turbomachinery parts (e.g. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impeller" rel="nofollow noreferrer">impellers</a>) using a robotic arm with 3D scanner and a rotating platform to scan the whole surface of the parts to compare used parts to new parts and evaluate if they can be used for another maintenance interval.</p>
|
2021-11-24T22:52:17.167 | |pla|3d-design| | <p>I want to put in a date and serial number that would be difficult to erase or change. Is it better to print in the number or engrave it in with a laser engraver.</p>
<p>Material will be anti-bacterial PLA.</p>
<p>It will be on free masks donated to schools, I want to make sure we can identify them when they show up at the market or in shops.</p>
| 18442 | Best way to put a serial number on a 3D print | <p>Have you considered using a barcode rather than text. It would be easier to print clearly as there are no curves, and would be machine readable.</p>
|
2021-11-26T12:17:50.297 | |marlin|bed-leveling|knowledgebase|terminology| | <p>When looking at <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin firmware</a> or reading on leveling of the printer bed the term ABL and UBL are frequently used.</p>
<ul>
<li>What are ABL and UBL?</li>
<li>Are they the same?</li>
</ul>
| 18451 | What is ABL or UBL? Is this the same? | <blockquote>
<ul>
<li>What are ABL and UBL?</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<ul>
<li><strong>ABL</strong> stands for <strong>Automatic Bed Leveling</strong></li>
<li><strong>UBL</strong> stands for <strong>Unified Bed Leveling</strong></li>
</ul>
<h2>Level the bed?</h2>
<p>A level bed (twisting knobs under the bed), or a surface that is exactly followed by the nozzle is a prime requisite for 3D printing. Without a proper bed setup (not only level, but also the initial nozzle to bed surface gap; usually the paper thickness distance, but a feeler gauge will do a similar job), adhesion to the print surface might not be optimal and causes the print to get loose during printing or the first layer may not adhere at all.</p>
<h2>A leveling solution</h2>
<p>Over the years, 3D printing hardware and software has evolved to aid the 3D print operator. One such a solution is the use of a sensor (see e.g. <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16604/automatic-bed-leveling-abl-with-a-sensor-bltouch-inductive-capacitive-how">Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work?</a>). But a dedicated sensor it not a prime requisite, you can also do it manually.</p>
<h2>ABL</h2>
<p>Automatic bed leveling comes in many forms, the use of a sensor to sense the proximity of the build surface (inductive, capacitive, optical or through physical touching) enabled scanning of the build surface. In the Marlin firmware, more specific in the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h" rel="noreferrer">configuration.h</a> file of the firmware (note this is a generic one, your printer might need adaptions!), the following on automatic bed leveling is to be found:</p>
<ul>
<li><p><strong>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT</strong><br>
Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)<br>
You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.<br>
<em>The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.</em></p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR</strong><br>
Probe several points in a grid.<br>
You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.<br>
<em>The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.</em><br></p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR</strong><br>
Probe several points in a grid.<br>
You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.<br>
<em>The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.</em><br></p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Note that bilinear leveling is automatic leveling option that doesn’t require you to adjust any leveling knobs (but remember that <em>automatic leveling is <strong>not</strong> magic</em>, you still need to provide a bed as level as possible! see <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6904/does-auto-leveling-result-in-sheared-prints">Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?</a>), but it is laborious to use in the sense you typically have to run the multi probing points prior to printing, which can take some time depending on the grid size (see <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8497/how-to-increase-the-amount-of-probing-points-for-a-bltouch-sensor-in-marlin-firm">How to increase the amount of probing points for a BLTouch sensor in Marlin firmware?</a>).</p>
<p>This is where Unified Bed Leveling comes in.</p>
<h2>UBL</h2>
<p>Unified bed leveling (UBL) introduces a mesh-based software procedure in Marlin firmware similar to (ABL) bilinear leveling but with some extra features. From the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h" rel="noreferrer">configuration.h</a> file:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL</strong> (Unified Bed Leveling)<br>
A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits<br>
of other systems. UBL <strong>also</strong> includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh<br>
Validation and Mesh Editing systems.<br></li>
</ul>
<p>A UBL mesh is generally using more probing points than the (ABL) bilinear leveling equivalent to create a better digital representation (topography) of the used build surface. Bilinear meshes typically use 9-<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8497/how-to-increase-the-amount-of-probing-points-for-a-bltouch-sensor-in-marlin-firm">25</a> probing points, UBL meshes generally use 81-100 probing points to scan the surface more thoroughly. Note that this is up to you how you define this, the bottom line is that UBL is not something you do prior to every print, so you can get away with having some more probing points. Note to choose a value that is in line with the surface (type and size), for a flat glass surface 100 probing points might not be necessary.</p>
<p>Essentially, the operator is presented a means to interact with the 3D printer to control the leveling to allows to easily store (save up to seven meshes), adjust, and swap multiple digitally stored leveling meshes on your printer to encounter the various print surfaces you may use like in multiple build plates.</p>
<p>The main difference between UBL and the ABL systems is that UBL combines features of other leveling techniques to provide users with more control. With Unified Bed Leveling, you’re not technically required to have an automatic bed leveling sensor. Through the interface, you can manually create the mesh! As the machine is homed, the coordinate system is fixed, movement relative to the reference is used by each probing point.</p>
<p>With so many points, creating UBL meshes can take a long time compared to other systems (certainly without a leveling sensor), but once the process is done, you don’t have to redo this again as the UBL features allow you to modify the probing points.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G26:_Mesh_Validation_Pattern" rel="noreferrer"><code>G26</code></a> command is designed to use with mesh enabled leveling procedures (Marlin < 1.1.6 <code>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL</code> and since Marlin 1.1.7 it also works with <code>MESH_BED_LEVELING</code> and <code>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR</code>). The various options are described in the Marlin implementation of <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G026.html" rel="noreferrer"><code>G26</code></a>.</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Are they the same?</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>To sum up, ABL and UBL are the same in that some sort of procedure is used to scan the topography of the bed surface but they differ in the sense that for ABL you are required to have a automatic leveling sensor and choose less points while you can have more probe points using UBL including advanced features as editing and storing multiple meshes.</p>
|
2021-11-26T12:45:59.397 | |homing|knowledgebase|terminology| | <p>A 3D printer needs to be homed (homing) before the print starts.</p>
<ul>
<li>What is homing?</li>
<li>What is the purpose of homing?</li>
<li>Is it necessary?</li>
</ul>
| 18453 | What is homing? What is the purpose of homing? | <p>Most 3d printers control head position using stepper motors and end stops with no position feedback. The stepper motor does not actually know its location.</p>
<p>The printer's control system can only know the location of the head by keeping track of the relative number of steps the head has been moved by the stepper motors.</p>
<p>Homing moves all the axes in one direction until it hits the end stops for each axis. Once that has been done, then the control system knows exactly where the head is and future relative motions can be offset from there.</p>
<p>Some control systems will move the axis at a relatively high speed (so you don't get bored, but not fast enough to cause damage) and then overshoot the end stop's activation point and stop. Then they will back off to release the end stop and then move towards it more slowly to get a more exact reading of the activation point.</p>
<p>When the printer is idle, frequently the stepper motors are unpowered to save energy and keep the motors cool. When the motors are unpowered, they can free spin (you can push the axis with your hand or the vertical axis might even slip a bit with gravity), so the position would be uncertain, and it would be necessary to re-home. Once it has rehomed, the control system will keep the motors powered to prevent slipping.</p>
<p>It is only necessary to home if you care about where the printer starts printing. In theory, you could get away with only homing the vertical axis (so the print starts on a surface and the first layer is the correct thickness), and manually set the horizontal start position. However, this might make using the full horizontal limits of the build area difficult if you didn't start it in the right place.</p>
|
2021-11-27T20:44:39.323 | |g-code|cnc| | <p>I encountered the following question in a manufacturing course.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZL4W.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZL4W.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<pre><code>G20 G90 G28
M06 T1
MO3 S1000
G00 X0 Y0 Z-0.25
G41 D1
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y3 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G00 X4 Y0 Z0.25
</code></pre>
<p>But when you type the G code in <a href="https://ncviewer.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NCViewer</a> the shape produced is not a rectangle. Also, I am not sure how the end mill diameter affects that of the rectangle. Can anyone explain how to solve this problem?
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M59Ir.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M59Ir.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 18466 | Interpreting G-code to answer question about geometry of shape produced | <p>There is no rectangle, the assignment is wrong. In order to make a rectangle, the G-code should have been:</p>
<pre><code>...
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X5 Y3 Z-0.25 F3
G01 X1 Y3 Z-0.25 F3 ; <-- missing line
G01 X1 Y1 Z-0.25 F3
...
</code></pre>
<p>Then the rectangle would have been 2 by 4 inches.</p>
<hr />
<p>As noted in the comments, the assignment is even more unclear. The code shows an offset to be taken into account of tool <code>D1</code> in the cutter compensation code <code>G41</code>. It further doesn't specify the characteristics of that tool. If it is differently than the end mill currently in the tool head, than the difference in diameter between the <code>D1</code> tool and the current 0.5" tool needs to be taken into account. The power of using cutter offset definitions is that the same code can be used for different tools, you only needs to set the correct offset. If the <code>D1</code> tool is defined as a 1" diameter tool, the current tool is half that size, as there is a compensation for 1" at play while a half inch end mill is used, the end product will be larger.</p>
|
2021-11-28T00:11:35.417 | |print-quality|toybox| | <p>I am trying to print this really cool <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments" rel="nofollow noreferrer">flying toy model</a> on my <a href="https://toybox.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ToyBox</a> 3D printer, but when I try to print the "copter_key-175.stl" file it complains it is a "non-manifold shape". How can I fix this .stl file?</p>
<hr />
<p>[update START]</p>
<p><em>Update for future readers:</em>
I haven't tried it yet, but the Free and Open Source slicer software, <a href="https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slic3r</a>, boasts this feature worth trying:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>auto-repair</strong> of non-manifold meshes (and ability to re-export them);</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Update again: the <strong>best slicers</strong>, it seems, based on my research, are:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Cura</strong> (FOSS and professionally supported),</li>
<li><strong>PrusaSlicer</strong> (FOSS, forked from Slic3r, and also professionally supported now).</li>
</ol>
<p>Articles to look at:</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=slic3r%20vs%20cura&oq=slic3r%20vs%20cura&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i65.2775j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google search for "slic3r vs cura"</a>
<ol>
<li>Slic3r vs Cura (Cura wins; Slic3r lags due to no full-time company-sponsored development): <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/2/slic3r-vs-cura-3d-printer-slicer-software-shootout/</a></li>
</ol>
</li>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&oq=prusaslicer%20vs%20cura&aqs=chrome..69i57.10468j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google search for "prusaslicer vs cura"</a>
<ol>
<li>PrusaSlicer vs Cura (Cura wins, but just barely, since both are professionally supported with full-time developers): <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/2/prusaslicer-vs-cura-differences/</a></li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
<p>[update END]</p>
<hr />
<p>Note that I have printed many ToyBox-designed models perfectly with this printer over the last 24 hrs.</p>
<p>I have also split the model (to cut the last few cm off the end and shorten it) using this technique here in TinkerCad, then exported the part as a shorter part so I could print on the smaller bed of the ToyBox printer.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/1SwSqROgLpY?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>Here is what the "key" is supposed to look like:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTkbn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D rendering of 'key'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hTkbn.jpg" alt="3D rendering of 'key'" title="3D rendering of 'key'" /></a></p>
<p>And here is how it comes out instead. Notice the misaligned teeth and layers about halfway through. Once I saw it was botched, I stopped the print early.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9BQTr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Side view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9BQTr.jpg" alt="Side view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Side view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gm0T.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Top view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gm0T.jpg" alt="Top view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Top view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqYyf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Angled view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqYyf.jpg" alt="Angled view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Angled view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RE9sB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Back view of 3D printed 'key'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RE9sB.jpg" alt="Back view of 3D printed 'key'" title="Back view of 3D printed 'key'" /></a></p>
<p><strong>How can I make it print properly and/or how can I fix the .stl file?</strong></p>
<h2>Notes:</h2>
<ul>
<li>My operating system is Linux Ubuntu 20.04</li>
<li>I have Windows 10 running in the VirtualBox virtual machine in case I need to run Fusion 360 or something in Windows</li>
<li>I tried installing Meshmixer inside Windows 10 and it won't open. I had read online it can be used to fix .stl files, so I was going to look into that.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfPSh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfPSh.png" alt="Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box" title="Screenshot of Meshmixer Error Report dialog box" /></a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Related:</h2>
<ul>
<li>my comment on <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901/comments#comment-6238246" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a></li>
<li>my help request on <a href="https://maketoys.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/4411413024916-Cannot-split-part-in-editor-Something-went-wrong-please-try-again-" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Toybox</a></li>
<li>Another person seeking help for this: <a href="https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360038762593-Non-Manifold-Model" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tinkercad.zendesk.com: Non-Manifold Model</a></li>
</ul>
| 18468 | Non-Manifold .stl file won't print properly on my ToyBox 3D printer | <h2>Update 24 Mar. 2023: the maximum <em>usable</em> print volume of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately <em>74 x 79 x 100 mm (width x length x height)</em>, <em>and</em> you must add supports to keep tall objects from tipping over and catching</h2>
<p>1st, you must add supports to keep tall objects from bending over and catching the nozzle, like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GKP4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5GKP4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Notice the side supports. Without them, this ball will not print properly. Between 60% and 80% done, it's so tall that the nozzle will eventually catch on the ball edge, tip it over, and then get jammed against it, causing it to think it hit the edge of the print volume, and forcing the center point to shift several mm in the opposite direction. This results in print sheering and possibly damage to the stepper motors or gears.</p>
<p>2nd, the digital bed size of the ToyBox 3D printer (when you go to load an object to print) is <strong>75 x 80 x 100 mm</strong> (7.5 x 8.0 x 10.0 cm).</p>
<p>When printing large objects up to 100mm in height, it seems to work fine. So, that limit is ok. But, when printing large objects which are the full width, ex: a 75mmx75mm circle, the object will get destroyed once the max diameter portion of the circle is reached. This is because the hard mechanical stops (screws, and metal edges of the print space) and/or limit switches of the printer will be hit, causing the print head firmware to adjust the center print point by several mm in the opposite direction. The object will then print with misaligned layers from that point forward. Since the center point just jumped several mm, the end point will be hit again on a future pass on the opposite side, causing it to jump again. It will jump like this repeatedly until the print is complete. You end up with shifted layers as shown in the photo below. This is a 75x75x75mm ball, which printed fine until the max diameter center portion was reached, at which point the mechanical edge stops were hit, the center point was (presumably) readjusted by the firmware, and the layers sheered:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndQW2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ndQW2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So, when printing, shrink the object 1 or 2 mm (5%, or 3.75mm of 75mm is plenty, and 1%~2%, or 0.75mm~1.5mm of 75mm is probably enough) and be sure to add an outer ring as wide as or just wider than the max diameter of the object. Ex: here is a manually-added outer ring to ensure the print head starts and stays centered at the beginning:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcRht.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KcRht.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>In conclusion, the <strong>maximum <em>usable</em> print volume</strong> of the ToyBox 3D printer is approximately <em>74 x 79 x 100 mm</em>.</p>
<hr />
<p>Back to my original answer:</p>
<h2>ToyBox 3D printer true print dimensions and limit switch problems</h2>
<p>So I figured out that the problem is my print area is so small the printer was occasionally fully pressing and triggering the end-point limit switches! This apparently causes it to stop slightly early, shifting the next layer as it prints.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.toyboxuae.com/blogs/news/what-are-toybox-specifications" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The printer specs</a> state that it has a print volume of <strong>9 x 8 x 10 cm</strong>. However, the print design area and viewer at <a href="https://www.make.toys/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.make.toys/</a> shows the design volume like this</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zouQc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zouQc.png" alt="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer" /></a></p>
<p>In the square grid shown on the base plate there is 1 cm per square, except that as you can see, the far left and far-right columns are < 1 square. Therefore, looking at this image, the usable bed area appears to be about <strong>7.25 cm x 8 cm</strong> (the grid size shown in the images), NOT 8 cm x 9 cm.</p>
<p>Furthermore, if you do NOT have the "Skip First Ring" option checked on the "Build" tab in the image below, the printer does a "wipe clean" maneuver in the shape of a spiral, circle, or ring around the object to be printed just before beginning the print. This wipes off any dangling stray print material before beginning the print. If your object fully covers the print bed dimensions, however, that ring will be even wider, causing the printer to hit its limit switches.</p>
<p>(<strong>The model in this image is 10.4 cm long, which is too long, causing my printer to hit its limit switches, skewing the layers while printing.</strong>)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAZQ7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HAZQ7.png" alt="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted" title="Screenshot of ToyBox viewer with the 'Skip First Ring' option highlighted" /></a></p>
<p>So, the problem is that my part is too big. WithOUT that "Skip First Ring" box checked, the dimensions are probably further reduced by another 5 mm or so on X and Y dimensions, bringing it down to about <strong>6.75 cm x 7.5 cm</strong> <em>usable print area.</em> My part was 10.4 cm long. The Pythagorean Theorem says that <span class="math-container">$A^2 + B^2 = C^2$</span>, so <span class="math-container">$C = \sqrt(A^2 + B^2)$</span> = <span class="math-container">$\sqrt(6.75cm^2 + 7.5cm^2)$</span> = <strong>10.09 cm max</strong> on the diagonal. <strong>My 10.4 cm long part was too long. The printer hit the limit switches, botching the layers.</strong></p>
<p>Had I checked that box <em>maybe</em> I could have gotten away with a part closer to <span class="math-container">$\sqrt(7.25^2 + 8^2)$</span> = <strong>10.8 cm long</strong>, but that's really pushing the limits of this printer. <strong>In the end, shrinking the part a bit more to be about 10 cm or less was all I needed to do!</strong></p>
<p>UPDATE: I've also proven conclusively by designing in <a href="http://www.TinkerCad.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">www.TinkerCad.com</a> and printing on the ToyBox that the max allowed print height is exactly <strong>9 cm</strong>, and it will indeed print properly all the way up to that height.</p>
<hr />
<h2>I'd still like a flying propeller</h2>
<p>That being said, even though <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4551901" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the "key" of the model in my question</a> printed pretty well in the end, the helicopter blade (propeller) printed horribly because the design is flawed and has a bunch of missing material and air gaps around the hub, making the propeller completely unusable!</p>
<p>Instead, I <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1885007" rel="nofollow noreferrer">switched to this thing shown below</a>, shrunk it down to 0.6x to fit my printer, set my printer settings from medium to fine resolution, and got pretty good results! I still need to further tweak and edit the design on <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tinkercad.com</a> to give the pull key better clearance, and better connection with the hub gear, and I think I'll be able to get a great result! I got it to fly a few times up to 8 ft high or so, but the pull is very rough and inconsistent, so the model needs further tweaking.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6G53.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6G53.png" alt="Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model" title="Screenshot of the Thingiverse page for the helicopter model" /></a></p>
<p><sub>Keywords: ToyBox 3D printer helicopter and toybox printer clearances, print dimensions, print volume, specs, print settings</sub></p>
|
2021-11-29T22:19:47.293 | |pla|filament|filled-pla| | <p>I have a 3D printer and I want to 3D print with metal infused PLA filament. It seems that this filament does not print that well (it won't melt to the right consistency). I referred to my manual and it does not talk about plastic or metal filaments. Is using metal causing the problem or is it something else.</p>
<p>The printer I have is a JGMAKER Magic 3D Printer DIY Kit with Filament Run Out Detection Sensor and Resume Print Metal Base 3D Printers for Hobbyist Education.</p>
<p>I am printing <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5129377" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these Christmas balls </a> in different colors for the holidays.</p>
<p>The metal filament is Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA (1.75 mm) Shine Silky Shiny Copper Like PLA CC3D ZHUOPU</p>
| 18479 | Printing metal infused PLA does not work well | <p>This is is PLA, and if you can print regular PLA then this metalised one should print too. However if its a different brand then you may need to increase the hotend temperature in small steps.</p>
<p>I'd suggest you load the filament, and then turn on the heaters to bring it all up to temp. Then use the extruder feedingn knob to force some filament into the hotend. It should come out like hot cheese, and if not then increase the hotend temp till it does.</p>
<p>In your slicer, it should be possible to set up a profile for this material with settings it likes, to ease future printing.</p>
<hr />
<p>Your comment say it drips, which suggests the hotend temp is too HIGH and the plastic is liquifying. Start at 140 degrees C and then work up from there, not down.</p>
|
2021-11-29T23:01:16.873 | |color| | <p>Is it possible to color a 3D printed object during 3D printing? I am trying to achieve an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ombr%C3%A9" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><em>ombré</em></a> of many colors.</p>
<p>I tried to stop the 3D printing at individual stages and it looks like blocks. Is there a way to achieve a near perfect ombré or is it not possible yet?</p>
<p>The thing I am printing is <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5129377" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Spiral Christmas Balls</a>.</p>
<p>I am trying to achieve something like this effect:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoUlL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Color gradient or shading effect"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoUlL.jpg" alt="Color gradient or shading effect" title="Color gradient or shading effect" /></a></p>
| 18482 | How to achieve ombré (or shading) effects? | <p>The ability to shade 3D printed objects is dependent on the printer, the plastic in use, and available dye.</p>
<p>Several vendors offer filament with a gradient or rainbow-colored patterns, so that printed objects will vary in color over their volume.</p>
<p>Several 3D printers give the option of changing plastics during printing which would allow this.</p>
<p>A few 3D printers allow injecting dye into the plastic during the printing process, allowing full 3d coloring of the final part.</p>
<p>If you can find a natural colored filament and a dye that will dissolve in the filament, it is possible to color the surface of the filament before it goes into the printer, and there is some mixing in the nozzle. (This works well with natural-colored ABS and Sharpie markers, but I haven't found a combination that works well with PLA.)</p>
|
2021-11-30T18:54:03.983 | |electronics|delta|ramps| | <p>I've temporarily acquired two different 3D printers that I'm helping someone reassemble. They are delta style printers that at one point worked great. They were being stored in a large community warehouse type place and somebody that shouldn't have had access pilfered them for parts. Well anyhow I've got them 99 % of the way reassembled. Everything physical is back into the right place and now I just have to wire it.</p>
<p>Here's a photo of the board:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Lo2o.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Lo2o.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>It looks like a "BT7200 V1.8.26 Ramps Plus2" board. I also recently bought that pictured meanwell power supply.</p>
<p>I googled the board and instead of a wiring diagram or anything just found several similar questions to this like "anyone familiar with?", "marlin pin details?" etc...</p>
<p>If anyone is either familiar with the board that can point me in the right direction for guides as far as these style/brand of boards? What the heck even are "RAMPS" boards? The only thing I've ever wired up is Creality and BTT mainboards meant for an Ender 3.</p>
| 18488 | Pin layout of RAMPS Plus2 board? | <p>RAMPS boards are one of the oldest types of boards, in Marlin firmware there is a <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps" rel="nofollow noreferrer">whole section available</a>. Actually, the first were shields that were pressed on on existing Arduino atMega board. Later, the microprocessor was placed onto the shield to become fully integrated boards. Basically, pin layout is very similar for these boards but small differences exist. In Marlin software pin definition you see that the basic layout is read, after which small changes are read over.</p>
<p>The board can be found by e.g. searching for “HE3D Ramp Plus 2 mainboard for the tricolor/K200 DIY 3D printer kit” and appears to be fully compatible with the RAMPS 1.4 pin layout, which is found <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_RAMPS.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<p>Snippet from the description by the seller:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Ramps PLus2 is suitable for all kinds of 3D printers, such as UM, Reprap, Detla and Kossel, CoreXY and HBot, SCARA and so on.
Four layers of exquisite workmanship, from millions of automatic patch production line.</p>
<p>Functional characteristics:</p>
<ul>
<li>A) fully compatible with the IO of the Ramps 1.4, the name is very similar to the name, on the market, the Ramps 1.4 less than 20 yuan of Sheild board, in the field of 3D printers have an absolute position, a large number of Marlin and Repetier code can be used free of charge. When configuring a single extrusion, two boards can wear a pair of pants, and nothing can be changed to work. Even the LCD interface, the two 10P Niu seats are all compatible with Ramps1.4 Reprap LCD12864 (note that MKS LCD12864 and LCD2004 are incompatible because they are incompatible with Reprap).</li>
<li>B) when configuring double extrusion, Ramps1.4 has a drawback, which is to take Fan as a second extruder, so that when double extruding, there is no fan to control, Ramps Plus 2 has been improved, D7 is used as a second extrusion heating, and the fan is still using D9, so that there can be a double extruder heating, and there is also one. A controlled fan (Pin9).</li>
<li>C) the most important thing is that Ramps PLus2 can be expanded to three extrusion…</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bL3hp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bL3hp.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2021-12-04T23:22:05.587 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>I am looking to buy an Ender-3 Pro, but the place I'm looking to buy from has this picture:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY2ds.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Confusing 3D printer publicity photo"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY2ds.jpg" alt="Confusing 3D printer publicity photo" title="Confusing 3D printer publicity photo" /></a></p>
<p>My question is, what is meant by "Junior" in the name?</p>
<p>I'm just wondering if this means it's an alternative kind of version for kids or something, or if it's just the name of that type of 3D Printer (e.g. in the way you might have a Junior Hacksaw or something)? I.e. is this the normal Ender V3 Pro?</p>
| 18512 | What is meant by "Junior 3D printer"? | <p>That is an Ender 3, with the vertical PSU, the older interface, and many tweaks like the drawer and filament loading knob isn't present.</p>
<p>Consider the Ender 3 V2 instead, which is an iteration on the same basic design and is newer.</p>
<p>Personally I found it cheaper to buy the V2 direct from Creality's website than to buy the older model from a local or other online seller, and it had free freight from China, and arrived in about 3 weeks.</p>
|
2021-12-07T18:03:27.053 | |creality-ender-3|laser| | <p>I'm contemplating buying a laser engraver attachment for my Ender 3 Pro. Either the Creality official one or the Comgrow version.</p>
<p>When scanning the <a href="https://www.comgrow.com/products/20w-laser-engraver-module-kit-for-ender-3-3-pro-3v2?variant=39438266630187" rel="nofollow noreferrer">respective web pages</a>/<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18289/convert-3d-printer-to-laser-engraver">answers on here</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEk3aVARSGc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">YouTube videos</a>, it seems like you usually unplug cables for fans and swap them with laser, etc.</p>
<p><strong>So I guess my question is</strong>: if I still wanted to be able to easily print, let's say within 10 mins of engraving something, without opening up my printer's electronics case to swap cables every time... what would be the best approach?</p>
<p>Is there a way to have everything permanently plugged in and the G-code file simply dictates what is done (3D printing vs lasering).</p>
<p>I have a different board than the default Creality if that changes anything (a BTT E3 RRF Board). I also have the IDEX expansion board plugged in, that's currently only running a second Z-axis motor (i.e. probably has extra plugs on it).</p>
| 18528 | Laser engraver on Ender 3 without taking important ports | <p>You don't need to open the electronics casing, why not cut/split the (print) fan cable so that you can plug it quick without too much delay. The power for the laser could be fed directly from a power supply.</p>
|
2021-12-09T03:36:56.110 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|adhesion|change-filament| | <p>I have been trying to make some small signs, and to highlight the text by changing between black and white filament at a layer just above where the text comes out of the back plate.</p>
<p>I've used Cura 4.12 and the "change filament" script to make the printer pause at the right layer. The change and purge process works fine, no issue there.</p>
<p>However the second colour adheres poorly to the first. Doesn't matter if I print Black then White, or White then Black. Both filaments are the same brand.</p>
<ul>
<li>Should I dab gluestick into the print at the same time as changing colour? (read on)</li>
<li>Is there some way to re-preheat the object and get a better adhesion?</li>
</ul>
<p>To save the print I've used superglue to stick the letters back on that have fallen off, but is definitely not ideal.</p>
<hr />
<p>Here's an example:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgUOS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgUOS.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The loose letters are held on well enough for printing, but only barely. They can knock loose at a touch of a finger afterward.</p>
<p>I have tried changing filament on the first layer that is not the back board, and one or two layers up the letters. One print I even changed filament a layer too low, and surprisingly that did not have adhesion problems. Perhaps it is merely a function of surface contact area ?</p>
<p>Gluestick on the exposed surface while changing filament was useless - the whole thing simply didn't stick and the second colour never got any adhesion at all, merely wiping off.</p>
<p>As for timing, it seems to make little difference if I'm there waiting for the last layer to print, or if I let the printer sit for half an hour before noticing and changing colour. The bed stays hot at 50 degrees, and the hot end is permitted to cool off.</p>
<p>There is a heating cycle, and then a purge/discharge-into-air that shows the transition between colours, so its not that the filament has lost a prime.</p>
<p>At the moment, a much more effective solution is to use a paint marker and colour-in the top layer with a contrasting colour.</p>
| 18531 | What techniques are needed to minimise layer separation after filament change? | <p>After much fiddling about, the only positive conclusion I could come up with was to not make the letters too thin. A chunky thick letter has more surface area to adhere, whereas a thin spidery letter is too fragile.</p>
<p>So print fewer words on each label, make the words more-bold, and if they still fall off after printing then CA glue/superglue is good enough to hold them together.</p>
|
2021-12-11T17:09:01.297 | |creality-ender-3|heated-bed|adhesion|build-plate| | <blockquote>
<p>Update following advice from @R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE in the comments - I've increased the Z-offset from -2.97 to -3.10 and all now appears to be much better.</p>
</blockquote>
<ul>
<li><strong>Printer:</strong> Ender 3 V2 with heated glass bed</li>
<li><strong>Slicer:</strong> Cura 4.11</li>
<li><strong>Temps:</strong> extruder 215 °C, bed 65 °C first layer, 60 °C remaining (works the best for the filament I'm using, lower for other filament).</li>
<li><strong>Filament:</strong> <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08QJFZ5LP?th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3DTomorrow UK PLA Filament - Anthracite Grey - 1.75 mm</a> (But happens with all others too e.g. ERYONE, ZIRO)</li>
<li><strong>Summary:</strong> On the first layer, every time the printer starts extruding to the bed after a move, the first approx. 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest sticks perfectly.</li>
</ul>
<p>The issue, as an example, I'm trying to print a case for a Raspberry Pi which has air vents on the bottom. When the print starts, it does the line down the side which the first ~ 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest does perfectly. It prints the skirt, which again the first ~ 10 mm doesn't stick, but the rest does, then when it gets to doing the vent slots, the same again.</p>
<p>The photo hopefully shows what I'm trying to explain.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Av98F.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Av98F.jpg" alt="Initial extrude not sticking" /></a></p>
<p>When printing a raft, again the first ~ 10 mm of the extrude doesn't stick, but the remaining does.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TUkz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TUkz.jpg" alt="Raft initial extrude does not stick but the rest does" /></a></p>
<p>Once the raft is printed, the first layer sticks to it perfectly well</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VEMc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VEMc.jpg" alt="First layer sticks to raft without problem" /></a></p>
<p>The bed is pretty level, I'm using a BLTouch to assist and has been cleaned with alcohol before the print. Bed has been levelled and the Z-offset calibrated to -2.97.</p>
<p>I have <em>Enable Retraction</em> on, 5 mm, 45 mm/s speed. I've tried increasing and reducing these, increasing/decreasing print speed, manual Z-axis offset fine adjustments, etc.</p>
<p>I did think <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that">First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that</a> was kind of the same issue, but there's no discussion of the issue being for every touch of the bed within the same print job.</p>
<p>Any advice would be appreciated. I've loitered this community for quite a while and lots of Google searching hasn't come up with any suggestions (there's actually very little I could find on this kind of troubleshooting).</p>
| 18538 | Filament not adhering to bed for the first 10 mm after every move | <p>From the pictures it looks like the distance between your bed and nozzle is too great. The way I see this is that the extrusion lines that should be pressed against each other have small gaps between them, and look rounded rather than flat. The only other way this could happen is with severe underextrusion/wrong esteps-per-mm, but that seems unlikely.</p>
<p>Note that "automatic bed leveling" <strong>fundamentally cannot</strong> help you get this right because it depends on a quantity it can't measure, the Z offset between the bed leveling probe and the nozzle tip. At best it can help you get the distance <em>consistent[ly wrong]</em>.</p>
<p>This is also consistent with raft fixing the problem, since the raft has extra wide extrusions in the first layer whose width will just vary if the leveling is wrong, and after that, all print heights are just relative to the top of the raft.</p>
|
2021-12-12T01:35:50.060 | |openscad|scripts| | <p>I literally just started OpenSCAD today, so please take it easy on me, but is shell scripting possible with OpenSCAD? as in, to write a script in the OpenSCAD syntax, and have it output images, or animations? with or without having to render the image.</p>
<p>I've been reading the man pages, and I'm not sure if that can be done.</p>
| 18540 | Is shell scripting possible with OpenSCAD? | <p>No. OpenSCAD is not a scripting language. You cannot use it to generate any kind of executable code. All that it does is to create static geometrical objects that can be exported as STL files (and other formats). If you want to do scripting, use a scripting language such as Python. Note that Python has some wrappers for OpenSCAD that may allow you to do what you want. For example, see <a href="https://pypi.org/project/openpyscad/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenPySCAD</a>.</p>
|
2021-12-12T09:18:29.137 | |3d-design| | <p>If I want to make 3D printable objects out of my old drawings, what are my options? Do I need to redraw the entire thing in 3D or is there a better way?</p>
<p>This is an example of the sort of pictures I have, I long ago lost the original Macromedia files so I just have them like this.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YReI6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YReI6.jpg" alt="example pic" /></a></p>
| 18543 | 3D from 2D picture options | <p>I presume that what you are saying is that you only have a rasterized image file. For example a .PNG file, and that you don't have any kind of source file containing vectors.</p>
<p>Since you're already a skilled artist from the looks of it, you're largely limited by the software that you have access to, or how much you're willing to spend on new software.</p>
<p>Probably the simplest and cheapest way would be to use a free program such as Inkscape to redraw your image as lineart only (You can import the image into the software and then trace over it). Draw it completely flat and 2 dimensional with no shading or colors. Only lines to represent edges. Save it as a Structured Vector Image (The default file for Inkskape). Then import it into a free 3D package such as blender.</p>
<p>This will import your image as a series of 2D lines in a 3D space. You can then use traditional 3D art skills (Which you may or may not have yet) to give it 3 dimensions.</p>
<p>A complex shape like that might require a resin printer to print due to the high level of detail. Making it wouldn't be a task for the faint of heart.</p>
<p>A more expensive option would be to commission a professional to do it for you.</p>
|
2021-12-13T13:56:08.087 | |extrusion|resin|terminology| | <p>Subtractive manufacturing has been the way of the world for a while, but additive manufacturing, which is synonymous with 3D printing, has disrupted all of that.</p>
<p>If extrusion-based printing is considered additive, then can we call resin printing additive?</p>
<p>Resin printers start with a resin bath and then essentially "subtract" the material it needs (via UV light). This is just a matter of terminology, no big deal.</p>
| 18552 | Is resin 3D printing considered "additive"? | <p>It really took me a little while to understand why you thought that it was subtractive, but I <em>can</em> now see your point. Which is, that seeing as the resin model is created <em>within</em> the tank/bath, you are saying that the bath is analogous to a block of aluminium which is whittled away, using CNC, to make a 3D model. The resulting aluminium model was once within the block of aluminium, as was the resin 3D model - therefore, you posit, resin 3D printing is subtractive.</p>
<p>The more I thought about it, the more it seemed as if you were, actually, correct.</p>
<p>However, then I realised that we were neglecting the hardening process. It is the hardening of the resin that is done in an additive manner, in order to slowly build up the model, therefore the process is additive.</p>
<p>You aren't removing/subtracting non-hardened resin from the model (which would result in a non-hardened wobbly model), but instead, as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/18556/4762">user10489's answer</a> states, you are adding hardened resin layers.</p>
|
2021-12-14T17:28:14.703 | |heated-bed| | <p>How hot is too hot for any given magnetic layer holding a steel bed surface? Are certain types or grades of magnets more or less suited for this purpose? How can I ascertain which kind I have if the manufacturer doesn't tell me?</p>
<p>I've heard that some magnetic beds should not be used for certain materials because those materials require a very hot bed for adhesion. But in the modern age where resellers and even manufacturers don't usually know what they are selling, what are the rules of thumb, and where are the limits?</p>
| 18562 | How hot is too hot for magnetic beds? | <h1>Depends on the magnets used</h1>
<p>Magnets demagnetize under heat and are fully demagnetized once their <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_temperature" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Curie temperature</a> is reached. This Curie temperature depends heavily on the type of magnet, and it is not the point where they already suffer demagnetization but where they have none left. This means, that the useable temperature band is much lower - and in some cases, low temperature can negatively impact a magnet's holding force.</p>
<ul>
<li>Typical Magnet tapes and foils as one uses them for example kitchen magnets can start to fail as early as 65 °C and have Curie temperatures around 80-85 °C - making them unsuitable for printing high-temperature printing.</li>
<li>The Chromium-Oxide magnetic tapes on cassettes are totally demagnetized at 113 °C.</li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neodymium_magnet" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Neodymium-iron-boron</a> magnets stuffer permanent damage over 100 °C and totally lose their magnetization at the Curie temperature of 320 °C</li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samarium%E2%80%93cobalt_magnet" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Samarium–cobalt magnets</a> only suffer damage over 250 to 550 °C and have a Curie Temperature of 700 to 850 °C,</li>
</ul>
|
2021-12-15T05:54:41.370 | |stepper-driver|creality| | <p>I have a new Creality Ender 2 Pro with a Creality 4.2.3 mainboard. I'm attempting to compile Marlin to fix a bug. How can I tell what driver chips I have on this board?</p>
<p>I've narrowed it down to likely <code>A4988</code> or <code>TMC2208_STANDALONE</code> or possibly the <code>TMC2225</code>. Strangely Creality only has documentation for the 4.2.2 and the 4.2.7 boards (not 4.2.3)</p>
<p>4.2.2 => TMC2208<br />
4.2.3 => ?<br />
4.2.7 => TMC2225</p>
<p>Some say you can tell the driver just by listening to the noise it makes. <a href="https://youtu.be/4hL-r02w6rM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here is a video of the printer running</a>. The motors are nearly silent to my ear.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALHyb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of Ender 2 Pro motherboard version 4.2.3"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALHyb.jpg" alt="Photo of Ender 2 Pro motherboard version 4.2.3" title="Photo of Ender 2 Pro motherboard version 4.2.3" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUdVU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUdVU.jpg" alt="Top corner photo" /></a></p>
<p>Resources</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/issues/58#issuecomment-842935869" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/issues/58#issuecomment-842935869</a></li>
<li>4.2.2 <a href="https://github-repository-files.githubusercontent.com/139231738/7626788?X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&X-Amz-Credential=AKIAIWNJYAX4CSVEH53A%2F20211215%2Fus-east-1%2Fs3%2Faws4_request&X-Amz-Date=20211215T153407Z&X-Amz-Expires=300&X-Amz-Signature=43dfe1ff5518c5003cf55ade1554caeb5953c733a599db07fb153cc976cebb45&X-Amz-SignedHeaders=host&actor_id=0&key_id=0&repo_id=139231738&response-content-disposition=attachment%3Bfilename%3D1623133432-Creality422-Schematic-2.pdf&response-content-type=application%2Fpdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">schematic</a></li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/pull/633#issuecomment-995206382" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin Config pull request</a></li>
</ul>
| 18567 | How to tell if I have TMC2208 or A4988 Drivers on Creality Silent V4.2.3 Board? | <p>MS35775 appears to be TMC208 compatible. You can find the data sheet on relmon.com here is the overview:</p>
<ul>
<li>2-Phase stepping motor peak current of 2A</li>
<li>Step / dir interface 2, 4, 8, 16, or 32 microstep</li>
<li>Internal 256 micro steps</li>
<li>Quiet mode</li>
<li>Fast mode</li>
<li>HS Rdson 0.29 Ω ,LS Rdson 0.28 Ω</li>
<li>Voltage range 4.75 ~ 36V</li>
<li>When the motor is still, it will enter into the power saving mode automatically</li>
<li>Internal resistor mode is optional (no need for external sense resistor)</li>
<li>Single wire UART bus and OTP control</li>
<li>QFN28 package</li>
</ul>
|
2021-12-16T21:58:00.310 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|z-axis| | <p>It seems there are some missing lines on the outer wall on the Z-axis with my prints. I'm not able to pinpoint the problem. Does anyone have ideas about what might be wrong with my setup/settings?</p>
<p>Example:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3q1k3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Printed model with printing errors highlighted"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3q1k3.jpg" alt="Printed model with printing errors highlighted" title="Printed model with printing errors highlighted" /></a></p>
<p>Here are some settings that I think are relevant:<br />
Printer: Ender 3 v1<br />
Filament: Das Filament<br />
Slicer: Cura</p>
<ul>
<li>Hotend temp: 215 °C</li>
<li>Layer height: 0.2 mm</li>
<li>Wall speed: 30 mm/s</li>
<li>Travel speed: 200 mm/s</li>
<li>Retraction distance: 6.5 mm</li>
<li>Combing mode: not in skin (Max comb: 30)</li>
</ul>
<p>Cheers</p>
| 18575 | Missing outer wall on some layers? | <p>The OP solved the problem by increasing temperature from 210 to "217-218". While it's good to have it working now, this likely suggests other problems with the printer thaat should be investigated.</p>
<p>If the change in temperature made the difference to get this print working, your extruder is just marginally able to push a sufficient amount of material through the hotend at the speed and temperature you're at. Normally I would expect an Ender 3 to do somewhat better, even with the stock extruder and hotend. Here are a few things you might want to check:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Is the filament properly dried? If it's absorbed moisture, the vapor phase transition will absorb <strong>at lot</strong> of heat from the hotend, making the effective extrusion temperature significantly lower than the block temperature. In my experience, it behaves like it's 20-25 ˚C lower than what you have it set to. You can kinda compensate for this by increasing the temperature (keeping an eye not to go over the safe temperature for the PTFE lining, max of about 250 ˚C) but the right solution if this is your problem is to dry your filament.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Is anything mechanically wrong with the extruder? A crack in the tension arm or weak spring can leave it very underpowered.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Are the extruder hob gear teeth clogged with plastic shavings? This will also leave it underpowered.</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
2021-12-17T15:33:32.567 | |creality-ender-3|filament|filament-choice|creality| | <p>What would the best filament for an Ender 3 V2 be? I don't mind about the look but I would like for you to be able to bridge with it and for it to be reasonably cheap. If possible could you give several different options at different prices, different qualities and could you describe which website/company you can get it from.</p>
| 18582 | What filament would be best for Creality's Ender 3 v2? | <p>Sorry - no one here can tell you to buy brand X from website Y.</p>
<p>However there are an enormous number of options and eliminating some broad categories can help.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Presuming your printer is stock, it has a brass nozzle, and therefore anything "reinforced" or abrasive is not feasible. That excludes carbon fibre or nylon-reinforced filaments.</p>
</li>
<li><p>ABS is probably unprintable, unless you've added a heated enclosure</p>
</li>
<li><p>TPU might work, but it has properties that suit certain kinds of jobs, like flexible phone cases. If you're not printing those things, TPU is wasted.</p>
</li>
<li><p>PETG is also a maybe - I have no experience with it.</p>
</li>
<li><p>PLA is the best for printing on an entry-level printer like an ender3.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>You can eliminate all 2.85mm and 3mm filament, because your stock nozzle is a 1.75mm</p>
<p>I've personally not tried TPU or PETG on my ender3v2, mostly because committing to a whole roll is an expense I can't justify.</p>
<p>If I were you I'd ask anyone locally who prints, "where do you get good filament?" and use that as a starting point. Ask your local library if they have a 3d printing service (this is astonishingly common) and where they source filament.</p>
<p>Some people only use the cheapest filament available, others have preferred brands, and others use only premium supplies. Figure out what your personality is.</p>
<p>Going cheap is reasonable if you're only toying about. If this printer is doing real work for people, consider stepping up to something better - cost of failed prints will outweigh the cost of better filament as your skills improve.</p>
<p>I would suggest exploring different styles of PLA, like the metallic-look or Silk mixes. You can also get great effects from Rainbow PLA, which mean you have to have fewer colours in stock. Lastly PLA+ mixtures exist, which are improvements on plain PLA.</p>
|
2021-12-17T16:18:43.933 | |troubleshooting|bltouch|creality-cr-10| | <p>My CR-10 is only a couple of months old. It came factory fitted with auto bed leveling.</p>
<p>Recently, the bed leveling probe has stuck in the withdrawn position whilst it is measuring prior to a print. Whilst stuck in this position the red light flashes. I am able to temporarily resolve the problem by gently pulling the probe down, but then have to start the measuring process all over again.</p>
<p>This problem is occurring more often and if I don't sit through the lengthy measuring process and restart if necessary, the printer will carry on printing in 'mid-air'.</p>
| 18584 | Creality CR-10S Pro V2 Auto Bed Leveling probe sticks | <p>Having moved the probe up and down gently to ensure it wasn't catching, I restarted the machine and have not been troubled since.</p>
|
2021-12-18T20:28:30.537 | |troubleshooting|nozzle| | <p>Recently, my Ender 3D Pro has been unable to print any large models successfully with PLA as the filament starts to expand inside the Teflon tube, causing a clog after about an hour of printing. I am starting to suspect that the problem is heat creep.</p>
<ul>
<li>This occurs with the two brands of PLA filament that I use (3D Fila and Voolt 3D).</li>
<li>The hotend that I am using is the one that comes with the printer, I don't know what it is made out of.</li>
</ul>
<p>I have tried many things to patch this problem:</p>
<ul>
<li>Try to unclog it with the needle</li>
<li>Replace nozzle (three times)</li>
<li>Check if the Teflon tube is touching the nozzle</li>
<li>Increase temperature from 200 to 220 °C</li>
<li>Increase temperature from 200 to 215 °C</li>
</ul>
<p>If the problem is indeed heat creep, I have plans to control the heat sink temperature with a Peltier and an extra thermometer. Any other ideas are appreciated.</p>
| 18590 | Nozzle getting clogged all the time | <p>Since you mentioned "Check if the Teflon tube is touching the nozzle", it sounds like you've disassembled the tube from the couplings and put it back together. This is error-prone and in my experience the main/only likely cause of clogging in Creality hotends. Heat creep is unlikely unless you're operating in a very high ambient temperature or have a failing/failed fan.</p>
<p>The tube can't just be "touching" the nozzle. It needs to be compressed against it. There are various ways to do this, but what usually worked best for me (before I moved to a different setup) was to back the coupler out of the heat sink by at least 1-2 full turns, press the tube all the way in against the nozzle, then tighten the coupler back down to compress the end of the tube against the nozzle mating surface.</p>
<p>The end of the tube also needs to be clean cut, straight, and undamaged. If it's charred, bent, gnarled, whatever, cut it straight with a razor blade while holding it in a jig to make sure the cut is perpendicular. You can find several such jigs (PTFE tube cutting tools) on Thingiverse or make your own or buy one. I like to also take the razor blade and chamfer the outside of the tube end ever so slightly before inserting it. I do this by hand, but I've seen videos of it being done with a jig that looks something like a pencil sharpener, which would probably be the best way.</p>
|
2021-12-20T10:40:50.530 | |calibration|knowledgebase| | <p>the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622" rel="noreferrer">3D Benchy</a> is everywhere. It is one of <strong>the</strong> top test prints if you look away from a simple cube.</p>
<p>But what makes the Benchy a good test print at all? It does have almost no critical dimensions that would be measurable to see if the printer is calibrated correctly!</p>
| 18604 | Why is a 3D Benchy considered a good test print for FDM printers? | <p>Benchy is cute. That goes a long way in attracting attention.</p>
<p>The benchy is one of the earlier STLs that was freely available to download, dating from April 2015, and was released under the Creative Commons Sharealike licence, which clearly states the requirements and limitations/requirements.</p>
<p>Curiously, a printed Benchy can float in still water, provided no print problems crop up. It will also sit nicely on a shelf, with no risk of rolling off and makes a nice ornament.</p>
<p>Links:<br> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3DBenchy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3DBenchy</a> and one of the earliest download sites <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622</a></p>
<hr />
<p>I've had my printer for a year now, and have never printed a benchy.</p>
|
2021-12-21T05:47:16.610 | |tinkercad|thingiverse| | <p>Anyone else seeing this issue? Anyone know a solution?</p>
<p>While editing a part on TinkerCad.com (<a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hrsKxOk1Xc7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this part</a>, to be specific), I click the "Send To" button in the top-right --> click Thingiverse --> I see this screen: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsCJO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsCJO.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I then click on "Authorize". I'm already signed into Thingiverse, so I click "AGREE & AUTHORIZE APP" --> and I get this error window:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCRGW.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCRGW.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>It states:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>There was a problem authenticating you with Thingiverse</p>
<p>Close this window and return to Tinkercad.</p>
<p>Privacy settings |<br />
Privacy/Cookies</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Anyone know what could be the issue? I've tried in Google Chrome, on Firefox, in Chrome with incognito mode, and even with a <strong>2nd pair of separate TinkerCad and Thingiverse accounts!</strong> I get the same result each and every time.</p>
<p>Note: I used the Google sign-in for the Thingiverse account. Maybe I need to use the independent account login?</p>
<hr />
<p>Side note: this question is <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/on-topic">on-topic</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Websites (could come under Software and/or Tools)</p>
<p>...</p>
<ul>
<li>Issues with web based tools <=== this one is my question</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<h2>I just sent in some support request tickets to both sites</h2>
<p>Update 22 Dec. 2021:</p>
<p>I posted a help support ticket to both TinkerCad <a href="https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> (choose "Tinkercad Account" from the "Please choose from the options below" dropdown menu) and to Thingiverse <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/support#" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> (click link --> choose "Other" from dropdown menu for "What does your support request pertain to?"). I'll add an answer here if I get any useful response or solution from either of them. My support tickets on each site essentially contained the following information:</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Subject:</h2>
<p>Can't "Send To" Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com</p>
<h2>Body:</h2>
<p>Please see a full description of my problem here: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18611/cant-send-to-thingiverse-from-tinkercad-com">Can't "Send To" Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com</a></p>
<p>Essentially, no matter what I do I get into an infinite loop of trying to click the "Send to" button to send a model to Thingiverse, and it repeatedly fails with the error shown in the attachment. Again, see the full description at the link above.</p>
<h2>OS:</h2>
<p>Linux Ubuntu 20.04</p>
<h2>Browser:</h2>
<p>Chrome Version 96.0.4664.110 (Official Build) (64-bit)</p>
</blockquote>
| 18611 | Can't "Send To" Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com | <p>Tinkercad replied to my Zendesk ticket I opened (see the question), and as a a result, they seem to have fixed the issue! The "Send To" --> Thingiverse feature seems to be working again!</p>
<p>I sent my request on 20 Dec. 2021:</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Subject:</h2>
<p>Can't "Send To" Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com</p>
<h2>Body:</h2>
<p>Please see a full description of my problem here: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18611/cant-send-to-thingiverse-from-tinkercad-com">Can't "Send To" Thingiverse from Tinkercad.com</a></p>
<p>Essentially, no matter what I do I get into an infinite loop of trying to click the "Send to" button to send a model to Thingiverse, and it repeatedly fails with the error shown in the attachment. Again, see the full description at the link above.</p>
<h2>OS:</h2>
<p>Linux Ubuntu 20.04</p>
<h2>Browser:</h2>
<p>Chrome Version 96.0.4664.110 (Official Build) (64-bit)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I got this response on 3 Jan. 2022:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Nicole Smith (Tinkercad)</p>
<p>Jan 3, 2022, 7:16 PST</p>
<p>Hi Gabriel Staples,</p>
<p>Thanks for writing in to let us know about the issue. I'll pass on the information and see what we can figure out.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>Nicole<br />
Tinkercad</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Then this on 5 Jan. 2022:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Nicole Smith (Tinkercad)</p>
<p>Jan 5, 2022, 15:40 PST</p>
<p>Hi Gabriel Staples,</p>
<p>This should now be working again.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>Nicole<br />
Tinkercad</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Sure enough; it seems to be fixed!</p>
<p>Next time you have an issue with TinkerCad, <a href="https://tinkercad.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new" rel="nofollow noreferrer">submit a help request here</a> (I chose "Tinkercad Account" from the "Please choose from the options below" dropdown menu).</p>
|
2021-12-24T17:07:13.920 | |g-code|cnc| | <p>I have a 3018 Pro CNC and being trying cutting a contour of a simple circular part:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3mDe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Fusion 360 model and route"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3mDe.png" alt="Screenshot of Fusion 360 model and route" title="Screenshot of Fusion 360 model and route" /></a></p>
<p>G-code:</p>
<pre><code>(TestKnobContour)
(T1 D=1 CR=0 - ZMIN=-3 - flat end mill)
G90 G94
G17
G21
G90
(2D Contour1)
Z15
S5000 M3
G54
G0 X10.8 Y0.1
Z15
G1 Z5 F10.0
Z1 F10.0
Z-2.9
X10.792 Z-2.938 F10.0
X10.771 Z-2.971
X10.738 Z-2.992
X10.7 Z-3
X10.6
X10.562 Y0.092
X10.529 Y0.071
X10.508 Y0.038
X10.5 Y0
G2 X9.851 Y-3.634 I-10.5 J0
G1 Z-2.75
G2 X8.983 Y-5.436 I-9.851 J3.634
G1 Z-3 F10.0
G2 X3.301 Y-9.968 I-8.983 J5.436 F10.0
G1 Z-2.75
G2 X1.351 Y-10.413 I-3.301 J9.968
G1 Z-3 F10.0
G2 X-5.735 Y-8.795 I-1.351 J10.413 F10.0
G1 Z-2.75
G2 X-7.299 Y-7.548 I5.735 J8.795
G1 Z-3 F10.0
G2 X-10.452 Y-1 I7.299 J7.548 F10.0
G1 Z-2.75
G2 X-10.452 Y1 I10.452 J1
G1 Z-3 F10.0
G2 X-7.299 Y7.548 I10.452 J-1 F10.0
G1 Z-2.75
G2 X-5.735 Y8.795 I7.299 J-7.548
G1 Z-3 F10.0
G2 X1.351 Y10.413 I5.735 J-8.795 F10.0
G1 Z-2.75
G2 X3.301 Y9.968 I-1.351 J-10.413
G1 Z-3 F10.0
G2 X8.983 Y5.436 I-3.301 J-9.968 F10.0
G1 Z-2.75
G2 X9.851 Y3.634 I-8.983 J-5.436
G1 Z-3 F10.0
G2 X10.5 Y0 I-9.851 J-3.634 F10.0
G1 X10.508 Y-0.038
X10.529 Y-0.071
X10.562 Y-0.092
X10.6 Y-0.1
X10.7
X10.738 Z-2.992
X10.771 Z-2.971
X10.792 Z-2.938
X10.8 Z-2.9
G0 Z15
M5
X0 Y0 Z0
M30
</code></pre>
<p>Candle shows that everything is fine for this G-code:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZ4p3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of Candle software"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZ4p3.png" alt="Screenshot of Candle software" title="Screenshot of Candle software" /></a></p>
<p>However, I am getting weird results (see top right):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/76m5S.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of milled circles with irregularities"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/76m5S.jpg" alt="Photo of milled circles with irregularities" title="Photo of milled circles with irregularities" /></a></p>
<p>What can I do for troubleshooting?</p>
| 18629 | Issue milling a circular contour with CNC – 3018 Pro | <p>I've ran the code on my own CNC machine. I slightly adapted the code as my machine doesn't understand the movement without the instruction code:</p>
<pre><code>Z1 F10.0
Z-2.9
X10.792 Z-2.938 F10.0
X10.771 Z-2.971
X10.738 Z-2.992
X10.7 Z-3
X10.6
X10.562 Y0.092
X10.529 Y0.071
X10.508 Y0.038
X10.5 Y0
</code></pre>
<p>is changed to</p>
<pre><code>G1 Z1 F10.0
G1 Z-2.9
G1 X10.792 Z-2.938 F10.0
G1 X10.771 Z-2.971
G1 X10.738 Z-2.992
G1 X10.7 Z-3
G1 X10.6
G1 X10.562 Y0.092
G1 X10.529 Y0.071
G1 X10.508 Y0.038
G1 X10.5 Y0
etc...
</code></pre>
<p>As I used an engraver bit, I made sure the depth was touching the wood (engraving) when running at the lowest depth. The contour it drew was a perfect circle.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYvdw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aYvdw.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The code is therefor working as it should (carve a circle, in the photo above, the circle started at the hole in the top left and followed a clockwise path), the result from your milling exercise shows that the final segment of the circle is not giving you a circle segment, instead the milling path is sort of straight. I've seen such paths where the steppers are not powerful enough to mill through the material. As a result they skip steps, and in this case it results in a sort of straight path. You should try running a dry run (in air), or in softer material (this will determine if the code is producing a cirlce in your machine as well), and add more passes to milling the knob (for the final product).</p>
|
2021-12-26T06:33:02.953 | |y-axis|hardware|linear-motion| | <p>I recently got a KP3S Kingroon 3D printer and have been trying to set it up.</p>
<p>After a couple of test prints, the Y-axis seems to only move in one direction. At first, I thought it was a motor issue, but when I go into the manual move directions for the Y-axis it seems that both inputs lead to the motor spinning in the same direction.</p>
<p>We have ruled out endstops as a possible issue. I think it might be a hardware issue but lack the skills to confirm the exact issue.</p>
<pre><code>Send:17:40:57.724: @moveRel Y10.00
Send:17:40:57.724: N31 G1 Y10.00 F6000
Send:17:40:57.728: @updatePrinterState
Send:17:41:00.824: @moveRel Y-10.00
Send:17:41:00.824: N35 G1 Y0.00 F6000
Send:17:41:00.828: @updatePrinterState
Send:17:41:07.445: @moveRel Y10.00
Send:17:41:07.445: N43 G1 Y10.00 F6000
Send:17:41:07.449: @updatePrinterState
Send:17:41:09.482: @moveRel Y-10.00
Send:17:41:09.482: N46 G1 Y0.00 F6000
Send:17:41:09.486: @updatePrinterState
</code></pre>
<p>Even though it states that it is increasing and decreasing by 10 it only decreases by 10.</p>
<p>I have updated the firmware to Marlin. I tested switching X and Y inputs and believe the breakdown occurs at the Y input signal.</p>
<p>attached is a picture of the mother board.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhmP2.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhmP2.gif" alt="picture of mother board" /></a></p>
<p>I am unsure of how to best fix this?</p>
| 18639 | Y-axis on KP3S Kingroon only moves in one direction | <p>The answer might just be replace the mother board.</p>
<p>If I understood everything correctly there are 5 things to check to break down the problem:</p>
<ul>
<li>the motor,</li>
<li>the cable,</li>
<li>the stepper connection,</li>
<li>the software input, and</li>
<li>the firmware.</li>
</ul>
<p>Using Repetier I disproved that the software was broken. By switching the X stepper and Y stepper cables, the motor and connection cable were proven to work. By flashing new firmware it was shown that it was without question that the firmware was the issue.</p>
<p>The backup extractor (E1) is not operational on this board. So it is either the stepper of the mother board.</p>
|
2022-01-03T20:44:23.857 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|klipper|pressure-advance|linear-advance| | <p>I've been trying to do some research on Linear Advance (LA) on Marlin and Pressure Advance (PA) on Klipper, and from my understanding the technology behind each is different, although also similar. If I understand what I have read correctly, then:</p>
<p>LA will alter the extruder acceleration movements so that the extruder can keep relatively the same pressure while printing. The effect of this would be prettier corners and z-seams</p>
<p>PA also seems to alter the extruder flow rate based on the movements. This should also prevent under/over extrusion in the print similar to LA, but where does it differ from LA?</p>
<p>Is my understanding of these correct? I currently have an Ender3v2 with a direct drive setup and am curious if LA or PA would be considered better today (2022)? From what I understand, my 4.2.7 motherboard is not compatible with LA due to its stepper drivers, and I am trying to determine if I should move from Marlin to Klipper and use PA, or whether I should upgrade my motherboard and use LA in Marlin. I may need to upgrade my motherboard anyways as I was also wanting to add some additional temperature sensors and fan controls for a heated enclosure I plan to build down the road.</p>
<p>Any thoughts/advice or reviews and/or current comparisons of the two technologies would be appreciated.</p>
| 18681 | What is the difference between Linear Advance and Pressure Advance? | <p>Both are implementations of exactly the same concept, even up to the units of the tuning constant being seconds (mm/(mm/s)). The difference is in the implementation details, and particularly how they deal with a mathematically and physically nasty/demanding part of the concept.</p>
<p>In order to compensate for pressure making the filament/filament-path behave like a spring, LA/PA offset the E-axis position by a fraction (K) of the pre-LA/PA E-axis velocity. Mathematically, as an operator acting on the function that's the E-axis position at time t, the basic LA/PA transformation is:</p>
<p>I + K*D</p>
<p>where I is the identity, K is the spring constant, and D is the (time) derivative.</p>
<p>Anyone with a mathematical background in functional analysis or PDEs will recognize this as an unbounded linear operator (at least with respect to most norms, due to the derivative term). Casually speaking, it shifts bad behavior of a particular derivative "down one level". Instantaneous changes of acceleration (starting to accel/decel) become isntantaneous changes of velocity. Instantaneous changes of velocity ("jerk"/junctions) become instantaneous changes of <strong>position</strong>. (Insert horrified face here.) In short, the result is not physically realizable.</p>
<p>There are two ways to deal with this impossibility:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>The Marlin way (Linear Advance): E-axis acceleration and jerk limits are applied in such a manner that the result of the LA transformation is still within those constraints. This makes printing <strong>a lot</strong> slower. Essentially there's no longer any E-jerk, and E-acceleration is limited by K time E-velocity.</p>
</li>
<li><p>The Klipper way (Pressure Advance): No changes are made whatsoever to the kinematic timing. Print speed is exactly what it would be without PA. Instead, a smoothing convolution with a triangle wave is applied on top of the result of the PA transformation (I + K*D) to make the E-axis position function back into something physically realizable. This introduces a new type of error into the extrusion, but if the time window of the smoothing can be kept narrow enough, the error is expected to be small enough not to matter. Unfortunately, the more extreme your print acceleration, the longer the window needed to keep the result of PA physically realizable, so there are still limits. If you don't tune them right, the extruder will just start skipping.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>In my opinion, the Marlin behavior is easier to get started with, but hopelessly slow to actually use unless you start cranking up your acceleration and jerk limits. And this ends up being comparable to the manual tuning you have to do with the Klipper PA smooth time window. But in the end, Klipper's approach will always win on print performance, because the smoothing lets you cheat and do moves that wouldn't be possible with Marlin.</p>
|
2022-01-04T02:15:19.423 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|bed-leveling|z-axis|3dtouch| | <p>I have a 3DTouch with my Ender 3 3D printer with the Creality 4.2.2 Board. It is running a custom build of Marlin 2.0.9.2. As I have been watching my prints, I noticed that the Z-axis lead screw does not turn at all as the print head traverses the bed.</p>
<p>With the 3DTouch and a mesh of the print bed, the Z-axis lead screw should very slightly turn to move the X-axis gantry up or down to compensate for deviations and irregularities in the print bed as the print head moves around.</p>
<p>I will add that these print head movements travel across a decent portion of the bed. My bed definitely is irregular, and so I would definitely expect the Z-axis screw to adjust the x-axis gantry appropriately.</p>
<p>Here is my start G-code in Cura:</p>
<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
M104 S160; start warming extruder to 160
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto bed-level (BL-Touch)
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
; G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
; End of custom start GCode
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://we.tl/t-gyToFW4YqJ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> are my <code>Configuration.h</code> and <code>Configuration_adv.h</code> files.</p>
<p>I wasn't able to paste my entire configuration file here, so I have provided it in the link above.</p>
<p>What have I done wrong?</p>
<p>To be more concise, here is a list of everything I changed in the default configuration file.</p>
<ol>
<li>I ensured <code>#define PDITEMP</code> is not commented so that I can do PID tuning of the nozzle.</li>
<li>Similar to #1, I ensured that <code>#define PIDTEMPBED</code> is not commented so that I can do PID tuning of the bed.</li>
<li>I commented <code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN</code> since I will be using the 5-pin BLTouch port that is on my 4.2.2. board.</li>
<li>I uncommented <code>#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING</code> since I removed my z-axis endstop and want to use my 3DTouch as the Z endstop.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define BLTOUCH</code> since the 3DTouch is a BLTouch clone.</li>
<li>Changed my x and y offsets in the setting <code>#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -42, -8, 0 }</code>. I left the Z-offset 0, since I will be using the tuning tool to adjust that and observe the squish. For the X and Y, I measured the distance between my probe and the nozzle using a digital caliper.</li>
<li>I adjusted the probe margin from 10 to 15, since I have clips that previously would interfere with the 3DTouch. 15 should give more distance. <code>#define PROBING_MARGIN 15</code></li>
<li>I enabled and set MULTIPLE_PROBING to 3. I'm paranoid about the current accuracy and am willing to see if that improves anything at the expense of a few additional minutes. <code>#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 3</code>. I think 2 should be fine for general use.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST</code>. I want to test my 3DTouch and uncommenting allows the use of <code>M48</code> to test it.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define PROBING_FANS_OFF</code>, <code>#define PROBING_ESTEPPERS_OFF</code>, <code>#define PROBING_STEPPERS_OFF</code>, <code>#define DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING 200</code>. The documentation this may improve probing results. I'm all in.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING</code> and <code>#define HOME_AFTER_DEACTIVATE</code>.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR</code></li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28</code>. This is to ensure the mesh is applied even after <code>G28</code>, which disables the mesh otherwise.</li>
<li>Ensures that this setting was 10. <code>#define DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT 10.0</code></li>
<li>I set the following: <code>#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7</code>. Ensures a 7x7 mesh grid is created. This could be more or less. 49 points is an improvement over Creality's 9, although a bit much. Worthwhile in my case.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID</code>. I was actually wondering if this was causing some of the inconsistent prints near the edge.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define LCD_BED_LEVELING</code>. This is to unlock more options for ABL in the menu.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define LEVEL_BED_CORNERS</code>. This should make moving between corners for manual leveling easier.</li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define LEVEL_CORNERS_USE_PROBE</code>. This is to achieve exactly what I was doing with <code>G30</code> in Pronterface. I changed to tolerance with <code>#define LEVEL_CORNERS_PROBE_TOLERANCE 0.03</code></li>
<li>Uncommented <code>#define Z_SAFE_HOMING</code>, which is important for the BLTouch.</li>
<li>Changed my PLA profile according to what I have determined to be best with <code>#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 200</code> and <code>#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED 60</code></li>
</ol>
| 18683 | Z-axis lead screw not turning to adjust height when using auto leveling? | <p>My firmware actually was working just fine, in terms of probing with <code>G29</code> before a print and then the Z-axis would adjust during the print.</p>
<p>The way I tested this was by putting an object underneath my probe at only a few of the probing locations at the start of the print <code>G29</code>.</p>
<p>The purpose of this was to simulate very significant deviations in the bed.</p>
<p>Then, when the print was printing its first layer, I would observe the Z-axis and the nozzle, and the printer did definitely make a very obvious motion near the probing points where I put the object underneath the probe.</p>
<p>Looks like when I am printing, it just doesn't seem to make any adjustments at all. I would expect it to make adjustments during the print since my bed is not perfectly level, but I guess it's how things are.</p>
<p>The purpose of this post was to evaluate whether or not my firmware was correctly interfacing with the BLTouch and applying the mesh to my print, and it seems like it is. The question of why it isn't making more noticeable adjustments for my print bed during normal printing is another question.</p>
|
2022-01-04T16:50:37.240 | |creality-ender-3|extrusion|overextrusion| | <p>I have had my Ender 3 Pro for about 2 years now and it has been working amazingly!</p>
<p>Since November it's struggling very much while printing. I am quite sure the problem lives on the extruder motor.</p>
<p>About 1 of 5 prints come out ok. The main problem is that the first 2-3 first layers are all good. But as the prints develop, under-extrusion problems come. It's not a clog, because I can push the filament and it flows smoothly. It's like the motor cannot push the filament to the feeding line.</p>
<p>Thing's I tried so far:</p>
<ul>
<li>Upgrading the extruder from plastic to aluminum (verified the tension, not too loose, not too tight)</li>
<li>Changed hotend (PTFE, nozzle, block, etc)</li>
<li>E-steps calibrated</li>
<li>Tried switching MicroSD</li>
<li>3 different brands of filament</li>
</ul>
<p>I noticed that the motor is getting pretty hot. I mean, you can't have your hand in there for more than a second. My theory is that this overheating softens the filament and it cannot feed. Is this possible? The aluminum extruder also gets pretty hot. There is no clicking sound or anything weird while printing, the first layers come out perfectly ok.</p>
| 18687 | Ender 3 Pro extruder motor failing constantly | <p>There are a few probable causes I can think of based on your description. That it only starts happening after the printer has been running for a bit makes me think it's a heat issue.</p>
<p>The first problem I'd check out is that extruder motor getting that hot. It should be warm, but not so hot it's uncomfortable to hold. Either the stepper is defective, or you have the current to it set too high. There is a small screw on the motherboard beside each motor driver that allows you to adjust the current to each stepper. Find a guide for your printer to adjust it properly. You'll likely need a multimeter to do it right.</p>
<p>The current being too high on the extruder could also cause the stepper driver (a chip on the mainboard) to overheat. When those overheat they go into thermal shutdown and will stop driving the extruder for a moment until they cool off enough to resume. If your printer has a fan for the mainboard, make sure that is functioning properly as well. Those chips <em>do</em> normally get hot enough they are uncomfortable to touch, so to check if that's the problem you'd need a thermometer and to check what model they are to see what their maximum operating temperature is.</p>
<p>If fixing that doesn't solve it, it could be the heatsink on your hotend is getting hot enough that filament starts melting there, you can get a clog that stops the extruder from pushing filament out properly, but still feels like it can be extruded by hand. Make sure the heatsink on the hotend has sufficient cooling. After a bit of printing try touching the top of the heatsink - if it's uncomfortable to touch, you have a problem there.</p>
<p>-</p>
|
2022-01-06T20:14:00.940 | |ultimaker-cura|infill|print-strength| | <p>I'm using Ultimaker Cura to slice my 3D models, and I often have a problem with object with dimensions over multiple orders of magnitudes.</p>
<p>Basically, if I set an Infill of 20 %, the infill is calculated for the entire region, regardless of whether for each z-stack, the region is actually a closed one, or multiple separated ones.</p>
<p>As a result, the fragility is increased in those tiny regions that have no filling, because overall, the infill percentage is respected, but out of unfortunate yet inevitable statistics, the parts with no infill ended up colocalizing with the regions that needed infill the most.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9jiA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9jiA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>As you can see in this famous Llamacorn, some closed regions have no infill at all (right side), and the left arrow shows how the infill is calculated based on the entire structure rather than the local one.</p>
<p>Any adaptive option hidden somewhere?</p>
<p>Do I need to tweak the model directly?</p>
| 18694 | Adaptive infill density in small region | <p>Actually, the right region does have a calculated infill; it just happens to be at the edge of the inner wall.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSBEu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Zoomed rendering of a model with a thin black line to show infill line"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSBEu.jpg" alt="Zoomed rendering of a model with a thin black line to show infill line" title="Zoomed rendering of a model with a thin black line to show infill line" /></a></p>
<p>I have drawn a thin black line along the infill lines for this layer and you can see that there is a small infill line.</p>
<p>Cura has a feature called "Support Blocker" that allows you to change the settings for certain areas of your model. You could make those particular areas have an infill of 100 % if you like.</p>
<p>Chuck Hellebuyck has a video on his YouTube channel that explains how to set this up. It's not that difficult and will take some time to get the area just the way you want it. The information for the "Support Blocker" starts at timestamp 2:01.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/su_m5zV9rvA?start=122"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>Another idea is to try rotating the model on the build plate to "force" an infill line to be generated where you need it. The only problem with this is that you may spend more time trying to get all the areas filled the way you want them.</p>
|
2022-01-09T07:49:57.263 | |fusion360|snapmaker-original| | <ul>
<li>Total beginner, not a single print yet</li>
<li>Snapmaker original</li>
</ul>
<p>I saw a couple of tutorials telling one to design whatever needs printing on Fusion 360 and then export it to STL, import on Luban<sup>1)</sup>, and print.</p>
<p>For CNC, I could import a post-processor and the resulting G-code worked fine without having to deal with Luban.</p>
<p>I know Fusion 360 doesn't have the <em>exact</em> machine on the library, but I'm wondering if I could get away with something similar or if there is a post-processor that I could install.</p>
<hr />
<p><em><sup>1)</sup> Snapmaker Luban is a free, <a href="https://luban.xyz/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">open-source slicing software tailor-made</a> for Snapmaker machines.</em></p>
| 18705 | Fusion 360 + Snapmaker original for printing | <p>One way to completely avoid Luban is to use OctoPrint, and the OctoPrint plugin for Fusion 360.</p>
<p>Loading the G-code from the USB flash drive can lead to weird behavior, where the Z-axis gets a bit lost. Online printing with luban or OctoPrint worked better so far.</p>
<p>Whatever you do, don't turn off the option in Fusion to start from the home position and set up a reasonable one. Mine went from the homing axis straight to print, including a gash over the plate that was in the way...</p>
|
2022-01-10T03:32:05.927 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>I've been printing a lot of things with 1 mm offset walls to fit lids.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVV8Q.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of an unsliced model in Cura"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVV8Q.png" alt="Screenshot of an unsliced model in Cura" title="Screenshot of an unsliced model in Cura" /></a></p>
<p>However, in Cura, it's been slicing them but not compensating for the offset creating gaps since the shell thickness (0.8 mm) is less than the offset. This results in gaps and occasionally allows corners to warp.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NznRa.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of a sliced model in Cura"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NznRa.png" alt="Screenshot of a sliced model in Cura" title="Screenshot of a sliced model in Cura" /></a></p>
<p>IMO it should be creating a layer that sits below the inset wall, filling the gap (i.e. making a thicker wall on the last layer before the inset wall). I've looked through the settings in Cura and couldn't find anything to do this.</p>
<p>I could increase the wall thickness but this will result in unnecessary extra printing time/filament.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PTx2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot showing a layer example in Cura"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PTx2.png" alt="Screenshot showing a layer example in Cura" title="Screenshot showing a layer example in Cura" /></a></p>
| 18711 | Gap between offset walls in print in Cura | <p>Look at the "Skin Removal Width" options in Cura. You might need to unhide them if they're not shown by default. As I understand it, the <em>intent</em> is that the "Skin Expand Distance" feature right next to it is supposed to re-expand the skin areas after shrinking them in a way that results in fewer tiny awkward-shaped regions that are slow to fill; however, as you've found, regions narrower than the wall line width can be lost completely. Setting the "Skin Removal Width" to 0 (and optionally doing the same for "Skin Expand Distance" since it should no longer be needed) will likely fix this.</p>
|
2022-01-10T19:59:26.877 | |creality-ender-3|bltouch| | <p>When starting the printer, the bed leveling sensor does its little startup thing and then lights up static red. When pressing "Level Bed" or "Auto Home" it homes X and Y and after that sends the Z-axis crashing into the bed.</p>
<p>Is there anything I can change in the firmware to debug or fix this? I have checked the wiring and it's correct.</p>
<p>The BLTouch is not a genuine Creality since at the time it for some reason was not available in my country. The BLTouch is connected like any other BLTouch; 2 wires to the Z endstop connector, and 3 of them to "+5V", "GNF" and "IN". The firmware I got of Marlins GitHub and modified the Ender 3 Pro firmware I got of Marlins configuration GitHub (Marlin BugFix 2.0).</p>
<p>The stuff I modified I put here:</p>
<p>Configuration.h</p>
<pre><code>#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING
#define BLTOUCH
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -42, -5, 0 }
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define PREHEAT_BEFORE_LEVELING
#define LEVELING_BED_TEMP 65
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5
#define LCD_BED_LEVELING
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
</code></pre>
<p>Configuration_adv.h</p>
<pre><code>#define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET
</code></pre>
<p>I compiled this firmware with PlatformIO in VSCode with env: <code>STM32F103RET6_creality</code>.
The board I used is version 4.2.2 32-bit.</p>
<p>The video I used can be seen here:
<div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/e1oOEzBuorI?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
| 18715 | BLTouch not working on Creality Ender 3 Pro | <p>I know this is an old post, but I think I figured out the answer.</p>
<p>I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM TODAY while trying to compile custom Marlin firmware (version 2.1.2.1) for the same exact setup as you have. My BLtouch probe is plugged into the dedicated probe header on the mainboard, and the Z endstop switch is also still plugged in. The bed probe wouldn't trigger while homing or bed leveling, and the nozzle would plow straight down.</p>
<p>The issue is in the firmware. The line <code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN</code> was not commented out in my <code>Configuration.h</code>. The printer was expecting an interrupt from the Z endstop switch. It wasn't looking for an interrupt from the bed probe, so the probe triggering wouldn't do anything, and it continued to move. Eventually, the nozzle would hit the bed. If you have this issue still, recompile your firmware with this line commented out in your <code>Configuration.h</code>, at around line 1280.</p>
<p>Please let me know if this works for you.</p>
|
2022-01-11T14:08:14.693 | |marlin|knowledgebase|pid| | <p>The <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide">Firmware Step-by-step guide</a> remarks to only mess with PID-Tuning settings in the firmware when you <em>know what you are doing</em>. Apparently, defining those settings in the firmware is a somewhat involved process, so this begs the question:</p>
<p><strong>How do you acquire the PID-tuning settings properly and update the boars of a printer so it retains these settings</strong> through power cycling?</p>
<p>Let's for simplicity assume there is a Marlin Firmware or a derivative using the same command codes is installed, so we can assume all the commands from the <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin G-code repository</a> work.</p>
| 18720 | How to properly run a PID Tuning and update the firmware? | <h2>Step 0: Terminal connection</h2>
<p>To do any work on the settings of the board, you'll need to run a Terminal - for setting that up, please see the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal">relevant question here.</a></p>
<h2>Step 1: What do we have?</h2>
<p>The second step is dissecting the settings that are set already. To do so, send <code>M503</code> to read the relevant settings from the SRAM of the board and display them in the Terminal of your choice.</p>
<h2>Step 2: Try a PID Autotune</h2>
<p>To run a PID Autotune, just start by sending this for your first hotend to enforce a 3-cycle PID tuning for the 200 °C region:</p>
<p><a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M303 C3 S200</code></a></p>
<p>For your second hotend, you'd send <code>M303 C3 E1 S200</code> - the E-value is 0-indexed and defaults to 0 for the first hotend, so E1 is the second hotend.</p>
<p>For your heatbed (and PLA) you send <code>M303 C3 E-1 S60</code> as -1 is the function dependant value for the heated bed.</p>
<h2>Step 3: Setting the PID settings</h2>
<p>After having obtained the PID settings from running the tuning cycle, we need to send those to the chips. To do so use <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M301</code></a> for a hotend and <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M304.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M304</code></a> for the heatbed, using the given values from step 2 as parameters.</p>
<p>Note again, that if you have more than one hotend, you absolutely need to have an E-value if you try to set the second hotend, as the default value is, again, E0 for the first hotend.</p>
<h2>Step 4: Saving</h2>
<p>To properly save the values into the EEPROM - provided it is enabled - is to just send one command to finalize:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M500</code></a></li>
</ul>
<p>If your EEPROM is not enabled, you'd need to take the line you wrote for Step 3 and insert that into your pre-print G-code, thus overwriting the PID settings in the SRAM before each print.</p>
|
2022-01-13T09:12:26.117 | |anet-a6|heat-break| | <p>I need to replace my heatbreak on my Anet A6 since I pushed out the PTFE tube when my filament got clogged...</p>
<p>The current heatbreak has a length of 40 mm, but, the shop I'm buying from only sells the 30 mm or 35 mm (the 40 mm is out of stock).</p>
<p>Can I just install a 35 mm heatbreak? Or even a 30 mm? Or is the 40 mm crucial in the design of the Anet A6?</p>
| 18742 | Using a shorter heatbreak on the Anet A6 | <p>This hotend design is called a Mk8 type/style hotend, based on the Mk8 Makerbot design. You should get the 40 mm length heatbreak, this option gives you some extra space, a shorter heatbreak will result in changing the Z-endstop height or raise the bed (if the endstop is fixed).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/St78t.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/St78t.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The 30 mm will for sure be too short and result in a gap in the heat conducting element, the 35 mm might work. You can source the heatbreaks from typical online market places for about a dollar you get 5 pieces, order these while you try if the 35 mm version works for you (depending on endstop and bed).</p>
|
2022-01-13T14:11:38.770 | |ultimaker-cura|creality-cr-10|infill| | <p>I had a hard time printing some parts as the brim was printed very well contrary to the first layer, wall, and especially infill. I noticed that filament lines were too thin when printing walls, infill, and the first layer. So the first layer was not sticking to each other.</p>
<p>I suspected that the slicer was the first to investigate, so I printed a model which I already printed before from SD Card and the newly printed part has the exact problems.</p>
<p>Suspecting that filament thread gets cooled very soon so we tried:</p>
<ol>
<li>Printing with more Nozzle Temp (225 °C).<br>
Result: Walls adhered better but still not strong in addition to weak infill.</li>
<li>Then turned on Fan Automatic Control<br>
Result: more nice walls with still weak infill.</li>
</ol>
<p>Setup:</p>
<ul>
<li>Creality CR-10 Smart 3D Printer</li>
<li>Cura Slicer</li>
<li>Material eSUN PLA+ White</li>
<li>Nozzle 0.4 mm</li>
<li>10 % Infill</li>
<li>30 % infill overlap percentage</li>
<li>0.32 mm infill layer thickness.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilMVL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Closeup view of a printed model with lots of filament 'threads'"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilMVL.jpg" alt="Closeup view of a printed model with lots of filament 'threads'" title="Closeup view of a printed model with lots of filament 'threads'" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUki8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Small printed model with layer lines not adhering"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUki8.jpg" alt="Small printed model with layer lines not adhering" title="Small printed model with layer lines not adhering" /></a></p>
| 18743 | CR-10 Smart with weak infill | <p>To solve this problem, I tweaked the following:</p>
<ol>
<li><p><strong>Infill Pattern</strong>: Some patterns tend to be more solid than others, going back to <strong>Grid</strong> instead of <strong>Cubic</strong> ensuring that there is a solid base for infill to avoid layer shift in infill as <strong>Cubic</strong> infill is printed in a slanted angle.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Infill layer height</strong>: It seems that the CR-10 Smart is unable to print 0.32 mm infill layer height.</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>Lowering infill speed</strong>: going from 75 mm/sec to 50 mm/sec as 75 mm/sec infill speed was too much for the extruder as it was unable to keep up with the speed so you will start to notice under-extrusion on the inside of your part, This under-extrusion will tend to create weak, stringy infill since the nozzle is not able to extrude as much plastic as the software would like.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Attached below the difference between 0.16 mm infill layer height on the right, the model is sturdy and strong.
0.32 mm infill layer height on the left, the model is weak and stringy.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CqxNT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Two 3D printed models with 0.16 mm infill vs 0.32 mm infill"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CqxNT.jpg" alt="Two 3D printed models with 0.16 mm infill vs 0.32 mm infill" title="Two 3D printed models with 0.16 mm infill vs 0.32 mm infill" /></a></p>
<p>On my try to print a large scale print the same problem occurred, very weak infill, which drove me crazy !</p>
<p>Addressing the real problem "Under-Extrusion" .. testing extruder I noticed that there is a crack on the feeder box</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tGogl.jpg" alt="Cracked Feeder" /></p>
<p>In my opinion it's a bad decision to go for plastic for the feeder, their design uses the lever to shift the plastic box which has the idler pulley (fixed on it) to relieve the pressure on filament.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3GbgR.jpg" alt="CR10Smart feeder design" />
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ArHBw.jpg" alt="inside of feeder" /></p>
<p>The crack on feeder weakened the grip on filament, causing slippage making the filament to be extruded too thin, which made the filament too weak to stick to each other.</p>
<p>Changing extruder to aluminium kit feeder with tight grip on filament ensured that filament is pushed correctly without slipping and also stopped stringing while nozzle is heating.</p>
<p>Print on left after applying the fix.
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4unY.jpg" alt="before&after" /></p>
<p>Hopes this save someone's the trouble.</p>
|
2022-01-14T10:16:19.663 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|troubleshooting|octoprint| | <p>I have a weird problem that I can't seems to find an answer for.</p>
<p>I'm using SuperSlicer with my Ender3 + OctroPrint setup.</p>
<p>The prints on the bed in SuperSlicer is perfectly straight</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yg86.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yg86.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>However, it seems that when my printer is moving in a straight Y-axis line, there is some kind of linear multiplier on the X-axis because it moves slooowly to the side causing the print to be pretty perfectly rotated on the physical bed as seen in Octoprint and also on the real physical bed (luckily my physical bed is slightly to large so I don't go outside of it).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sr5Wk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sr5Wk.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I know there is some kind of setting for this which is used for Z-offset with probe, but I can't seem to find it, and it seems weird that it has been set for the X and Y axis. I don't know if that is what really causing this, because I've never touched those settings on this printer before </p>
<p>Anyone got an idea?</p>
| 18748 | Print is rotated perfectly on bed, while straight in the slicer. X-axis moves slowly while printing a straight Y-axis line | <p>The print is <strong>not rotated at all</strong> on the print bed, the OctoPrint image is exactly the same as the image of SuperSlicer.</p>
<p>What you see is the skirt being printed misleading you into thinking the whole print is rotated! As the rectangles in the corners are aligned in the middle of the rectangles, the skirt is made of 4 skew lines.</p>
<p>If this print prints outside of the bed (in your case the bed is large enough to not cause problems) you are facing the issue that the print bed is incorrectly centered (the hotend to be precise). To have your prints print in exactly the same position as you slice them in the slicer, you could look into <a href="/q/6375">How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)</a>, this describes how to determine the offsets from the end stops should be set to get the center of the slicer in the center of your printer.</p>
|
2022-01-16T16:50:03.837 | |adhesion|creality-ender-5| | <p>I'm running a stock Ender 5 pro with the filament that came with it, and using Creality Slicer 4.8.2, but I'm only able to get reliable bed adhesion if I increase the bed temperature from 50 to 60 °C for the bottom layer and decrease the print head speed by about 75 % from the default profile for the Ender 5.</p>
<p>The machine is absolutely stock, and is fresh out of the box except for bed levelling.</p>
<p>I used the default bed leveling print and that came out well, so I'm reasonably certain that it's not a bed leveling issue. The problem seems to be with models that I've made myself in blender and exported as STL files.</p>
<p>In all cases the raft that was generated by the Creality software has printed out perfectly, but the print has only partially gone down when it came to the model itself. <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdXA1.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></p>
| 18757 | Why does the first layer only adhere to bed if I increase the temperature by 10 °C and drop the speed by 75 % | <p>Your bed is too low - raise it by turning the knobs underneath.</p>
<p>The first layer should not look like strings sitting on the bed as per your photo. Instead it should be a wider strip that looks somewhat like an electronic circuit trace, or like someone has pushed wet paint out of a tube that is being wiped across the surface.</p>
<p>My method is to head the bed with "preheat" in the menu, and let it sit at printing temp for at least 5 minutes. This avoids the heater being at temp but the top of the glass bed being cool.</p>
<p>Then start your job. As the brim or skirt is printed, actively watch it in person and twiddle the height knobs a quarter turn at a time. You want the "end view" or cross sectional view of the printed filament to be like this:</p>
<pre><code> _____<==>_____
</code></pre>
<p>and not like this</p>
<pre><code> ______0______
</code></pre>
<p>and definitely not like this</p>
<pre><code> 0
_______________
</code></pre>
<p>If the head starts scratching the bed, you've gone too far so lower the bed back down again (effectively raising the print head a little)</p>
<hr />
<p>Here's a print in progress trying to show a better brim. Notice eachgstrand is ovalised and mushed down. That brim will come off in one piece afterward.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vis5Z.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vis5Z.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2022-01-17T15:44:07.930 | |filament|recycling|plastic| | <p>Is there a machine (for hobbyists) that will make filament based on the type of plastic I put in. I will sort the plastic before I will put it in the machine.</p>
<p>I have seen the <a href="http://filabot.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">filabot</a> but this uses only plastic from previous prints not plastic types Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET or PETE) or High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) (these are the #1 or #2 plastic types listed at <a href="https://plasticoceans.org/7-types-of-plastic/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">plasticoceans.org</a>).</p>
<p>To reiterate:</p>
<ul>
<li>I am asking if there is a machine that can turn a plastic bottle into usable filament.</li>
<li>I want to know if there is a machine (currently on the market) that will make filament, based on the type of plastic I put in.</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<p>I <em>will</em> sort the plastic <em>before</em> I will put it in the machine... so,</p>
<pre><code>sorted waste in ---> sorted filament out
</code></pre>
| 18761 | Plastic bottles to filament | <p>There are 2 parameters you need to have good control over when printing any filament:</p>
<ul>
<li>Melting temperature</li>
<li>Diameter</li>
</ul>
<p>Of these, the melting temperature is directly correlated to the chemical composition of the polymer blend in the filament while diameter control is part of the manufacturing process.</p>
<p>And for 3D printing, we need to take a look at the usability of the material itself. For example, pure PET is not easy to print at all and as used in bottles might be unprintable. PETG (a glycol modified PET) on the other hand is much easier to print - and <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7856/8884">most filaments sold under PET actually are PETG or PETT.</a></p>
<h1>Troubles of recycling</h1>
<p>The melting point of a <em>blend</em> of polymers is often difficult to gauge before doing experiments and in case of recycled material, there are problems with recreating the exact same blend when using small batches unless you use exactly one material as the base for your manufacturing. This brings us to the big problem: errors in the base material. These come in several types:</p>
<ul>
<li>Misidentification</li>
<li>Contaminants</li>
<li>Degradation</li>
</ul>
<p>Let's address these piece by piece:</p>
<h2>Misidentified base material</h2>
<p>Misidentification is when you chuck material into the wrong bin and then process it as if it was the stuff the bin was for. For example, if you'd chuck a chunk of ABS into the PLA bin, your blend will not come out as PLA but as some kind of higher melting composite of the two. The exact details of the result depend on the mixture and how well you mix the processed raw material, but in effect, you just made <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4982/what-is-pla-how-is-it-different-from-pla">some kind of PLA+</a>.</p>
<p>This can be overcome by testing and good training as well as knowing the base material well. For example, there is an Austrian company that takes back ski-shoes. Only the hard shells of a particular manufacturer (which used a red ABS) are shredded, pelletized, mixed with some virgin ABS and color for stability and uniformity, then turned into filament, and then printed into flutes.</p>
<p>Another ski-shoe manufacturer takes back their own shoes and recycles the shells back into the current manufacturing, but is silent on what their shells are made from but that they are a long-chain polymer.</p>
<p>When trying to differentiate between PET and PETG, you can not do that unless you do a chemical analysis of every bottle - which leads to a huge problem in reprocessing: PETG melts well before PET and clumps it up, acting as a contaminant (see <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7855/can-i-3d-print-a-pet-bottle">here</a> for more details)!</p>
<h2>Contaminants</h2>
<p>Contaminants are a problem that comes with a bad base material. in general, there are two types of contaminants: Chemical and Physical.</p>
<p>Physical contaminants can be avoided by removing them before and after shredding. In the case of Skishoes (that's why I chose that example) is, you'd remove the soft shells and the metal latches, disposing of them in separate ways. Then the plastic shells are roughly sized up, cleaned, and dried before further processing. Most physical contaminants can result in partial clogging during filament production, resulting in an uneven filament. Uneven filament or such containing non-melting particles can result in print failure, for example from being stuck in the extruder or clogging of the nozzle.</p>
<p>Chemical contamination is arguably worse. PET bottles for example: what if the user before used to store chemicals in them that can't be separated from the polymer easily? In the best case, the contaminating raw material is removed, in the worst, it ends up in the stream. This introduced contaminated plastic ends up melting somewhat evenly into a larger portion of the recycled plastic, altering the properties in hard to predict ways. As a countermeasure in industrial PET recycling, the batches are huge and get well mixed before the new plastic product is made. By diluting the chemical contaminants on a vast batch, the effects of the contaminant are vastly reduced and evened out. This is also why even in the case of the recycled ABS-shoes-into-flutes, they mix in some degree of virgin ABS pellets - to buffer against chemical contamination.</p>
<h2>Degradation</h2>
<p>Not all polymers are suitable for recycling and some of them alter their properties depending on their surroundings. What actually happens depends on the material in question, but let's look at PLA as one example.</p>
<p>While PLA doesn't exactly <em>break down</em> in nature unless put into a high-temperature environment, prolonged UV exposure can bleach out the contained coloration and some blends do become more brittle, others do not encounter this. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqNfa_zExRU" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Angus/Makers Muse</a> had several prints exposed to the harsh Australian sun for up to several years and concluded the worst enemy of PLA over time is the UV light.</p>
<p>A different type of <em>degradation</em> can happen from the environment. The one side of this is cold embrittlement, which means parts become more brittle in cold. This had some experiments done on by <a href="https://youtu.be/w0JVXvSSEWs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Stefan/CNC Kitchen</a>. The other side of this is softening, for example by sitting in a hot car. Usually, this type of degradation is not lasting but could result in embedding contaminants into the mix by embedding them in the plastic, so see there.</p>
<h1>Is it a good idea?</h1>
<p>Well, from an ecological standpoint, it certainly is a good idea to recycle plastic. But with all the troubles to get any good filament, will it be viable under all viewpoints? You certainly can't sell filament which is of very varying quality unless you make it dirt cheap. Also, all this machinery takes a lot of power and initial investment before you can produce your first spool - which means it might not be economical or profitable.</p>
<h1>economical viability</h1>
<p>So, let's go back to the main question:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>[Is there] a machine that can turn a plastic bottle into usable filament? [...] [Is it] currently on the market?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Yes, you can certainly extrude plastic from bottles into filament shape, and the tools are out there - for a price. However, not all bottles might be useable due to the chemical composition and you will need to make larger batches to reduce chemical contamination.</p>
<p>On an industrial scale, the process consists of several steps: sorting, cleaning, shredding, pelletizing, mixing, extruding, and finally spooling the filament.</p>
<p>Of these, the steps of shredding, pelletizing, and the combo of extruding & spooling need dedicated machinery. Even if hobby projects exist that manage to do this with well-known polymer blends, e.g. recycling 3D prints, such is usually heavy industrial machinery. In hobby-grade machinery, quality control is often problematic, as filament diameter control is the crux, and the price tag to get even filament without readjusting the machine every few minutes is high.</p>
<p>The Shredder might be the cheapest part, only costing several thousand euros professionally and a couple of hundred in hobby grade. A proper pelletizing machine that turns the shreds into pellets for the filament extruder has a price tag of about 10 000 € and I have not yet found a hobbyist kit. A basic inquiry on the absolute minimum investment into a professional filament manufacturing stream without pelletizer came up with about 14 000 GBP (ca. 16 800 € / 19 000 USD) plus shipping, while hobbyist kits for only one of the two seem to come up with price tags between 500 and 3000 €.</p>
<p>This brings the minimum investment using hobby-grade machinery to roundabout 3000 € but without a pelletizer, while an industrial setup comes out starting at about 25 000 GBP (ca. 30 000 € / 34 000 USD).</p>
<h3>Cheaper options?</h3>
<p>There are machines out there that turn PET bottles directly into filament by cutting them up directly before entering a filament formation system. This setup is called Pulltrusion, and it turns a plastic strip into an almost-cylindrical, folded-over filament.</p>
<p>While no industrial size machine of this is available, <a href="https://youtu.be/N06FWr06iOI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Stefan/CNC Kitchen</a> just released a video investigating the device to manufacture such filament and then tested the print properties of such a filament. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsv9RMNQvMnIgBzMo57i7NA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Joshua/JRT3D</a> operated the machine in question and manufactured the samples. The base machine is the PetBot engineered by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/neskashev" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Roman Naskashev</a>, which is commercially available for about 400 € assembled plus shipping and import taxes from Russia. Joshua also managed to re-engineer a similar machine using the same method from a 3D printer, so the price point for a self-made machine might be lower.</p>
<p>Each bottle weighs about 20 grams, but neither the mouth nor the bottom can be used, resulting in not 100% useability. The process also means, you can't get any deposit for the bottle back. Assuming an useable portion of about 50%, this would in Germany result in a price of 25 cents per 10 grams, so about 25 € per kilogram - which for PET filament would be quite competitive. Some bottles have larger useable portions than others, and others might not require a deposit, making these a very good price, to maybe even free filament.</p>
<p>Do note that the manufacturing path creates a filament that is not solid but contains a void, which is accounted for by increasing the flow multiplier, and it does require a higher temperature than PETG: with settings of 265 °C for the nozzle, 80 °C for the bed and a 130 % flow rate, 30 mm/s extrusion rate, Stefan could use an otherwise PETG profile to gain good results.</p>
<p>However, the higher base temperature requires an All-Metal hotend, which is part of why PET is hard to print with many machines. Other problems are the PET's crystallizing properties, which makes the melting properties at times hard to predict and can induce clogging. Also, Layer adhesion can be problematic.</p>
<p>The biggest problem is the tiny production size of each spool: even if one would manage 15 grams per bottle in filament, this means that one needs to change the spool 66 to 100 times more often, making larger prints nearly impossible unless one comes up with a good solution for splicing the short pieces.</p>
<h3>Final conclusion</h3>
<p>While the tools are available, the price tag for a full recycling chain of raw material into filament, either as a hobby or industrially, can be kind of high. This means it might not be economical unless you can manufacture large batches <em>and</em> beat the price point of fresh filament.</p>
<p>However, with small batches and the proper tooling, it might be somewhat viable <strong>depending</strong> on bottle size and deposit system.</p>
|
2022-01-18T20:23:38.553 | |heat-break| | <p>I am trying to replace a Mk8 heatbreak on my printer. But which orientation do I need to put into the heatblock? The left image or the right image? Note that this specific heatbreak is missing a PTFE tube.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIJLnm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIJLnm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3Gnmm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3Gnmm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I quickly looked at the other questions on this forum but could not find a clear result with images.</p>
| 18769 | Replacing PTFE tube in Mk8 heatbreak | <p>The PTFE liner should be in contact with the nozzle, and is normally cut half a millimetre over-size to ensure that it remains in contact.</p>
|
2022-01-19T23:59:00.180 | |extruder|extrusion|nozzle| | <p>Brass has better thermal conductivity compared to steel or hardened steel but it has also far less wearing resistance especially compared to hardened steel that among brass and normal steel has the worse thermal conductivity.</p>
<p>Basically all 3D printer use brass despite is softer and also more expensive metal than steel.</p>
<p>Shouldn't the lower thermal conductivity impact only the time needed to bring it to the established temperature? Is there any noticeable difference in print?</p>
| 18776 | Is there any print quality difference switching from brass to steel nozzle? | <p>The thermal conductivity will certainly affect the time necessary to bring it to temperature, but will also require adjustment to flow rate with respect to speed of travel. The increased time for heat to travel to the nozzle is reflected in the increased time for heat to be "restored" as the filament transfers it from the nozzle to the bed and to the air.</p>
<p>If you make no other adjustments than waiting a bit longer to heat, you may see print quality changes. You might not, if, for example, the current temperature is a bit higher than needed. Unchanged, the effective temperature change required is compensated by the wider range of temperature allowed by the filament.</p>
|
2022-01-20T06:48:30.530 | |resin|post-processing| | <p>I know that you are not supposed to cure resin prints in the window, but mostly it has been working OK for me. I mostly print minis and props for D&D.</p>
<p>Last week I printed some walls and was a bit impatient to see what they would look like, so I painted them 1 hour after they'd finished. I´m coming to regret that decision since as of writing they still have that newly printed sticky wetness feel to them. I had calculated with the paint sealing the partially uncured resin in but this doesn't seem to be the case at all.</p>
<p>Does anyone have any ideas that might work? Will they eventually cure enough in the paint layer that the stickiness will go away? Would another layer of paint help? Or leaving them out in the sunlight for a few days? Or do they go into the trash bin? I also considered if some kind of lacquer would help, though I don't want them to be shiny.</p>
| 18778 | I painted an uncured UV resin print, now it feels sticky through the paint | <h2>Scrap the prints</h2>
<p>You didn't cure the print, and your paint might interact with the resin in such a way that it might never cure. The paint also will prevent UV rays from accessing the resin.</p>
<p>With this prospect, the only diligent way to go is to treat the item as potentially dangerous and discard it in the proper way.</p>
<p>Layering paints that have not cured fully is also an accident waiting to happen, so better <strong>don't</strong>.</p>
|
2022-01-20T17:18:40.103 | |creality-ender-3|z-axis|calibration| | <p>Creality Ender 3 Pro – Z-axis inaccuracy problem.</p>
<p>Before opening this new thread, I did read this <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14004/what-can-cause-z-height-loss-in-the-first-few-layers?">question</a>
(Perhaps there is another question on this site I did not see!)
Browsing through comments on that question, I don't really see any clear, verified solution for errors in the Z dimension when printing.</p>
<p>I recently bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro (migrating from a Kingroon KP3, to which I had migrated from a Printrbot Simple Metal).</p>
<p>Today I did a print of a small "testing" object which has a series of rectangular walls (1.5, 2, and 3 mm) running along both X and Y axis which are exactly 10 mm tall (in the STL file). I printed this with both the Ender and my older Kingroon. Kingroon had slight inaccuracy with the 2 mm wall (came out 2.2), but all other dimensions were correct.
The Ender had perfect widths for all walls. But the accuracy of the wall height was TERRIBLE- instead of 10 mm, it was only 9.4!</p>
<p>I should mention two other observations:</p>
<ol>
<li>Very often I print with rafts to avoid the "elephant foot" dimension problem. Each time I specify a raft with the Ender, the raft is more or less impossible to snap off!</li>
<li>During the print there are occasional "clicks" at the extruder feed gear (more or less throughout the print process). The only time I encountered that type of symptom previously was with the Kingroon on the very first layer if the height was not quite zeroed correctly and so it was trying to print too close to the bed (The whole leveling/height adjustment on the Kingroon was a constant challenge and needed to be redone each day).</li>
</ol>
<p>In any case, these two symptoms could also point to improper Z movement during the print job. I should note that to create the G-code file for the Ender I used Cura with the default settings for the Creality Ender 3 Pro machine. Also, during setup I did follow the instructions on a video to "square" the frame.</p>
<p>That earlier thread I mentioned emphasized problems/inaccuracy was in the first few layers.</p>
<p>But in my case the "wall height of 10 mm" (which came out as 9.4) is not the overall height of the object from the bottom, but rather a measurement from the top of the floor of the object to the top of the walls. So this if well above the first few layers.</p>
<p>I have not yet tried monkeying with the eccentric "tightness" adjusters to the wheels on the two sides (I am a bit cautious about those adjustments because there does not seem to be a way to measure/quantify changes made or even be sure you return to the original state. Hence my use of the term "monkeying").</p>
<p>Also, unlike checking movement on X and Y, I cannot simply raise and lower the Z gantry manually to check for smoothness and freedom of motion).</p>
| 18781 | Creality Ender 3 Pro: Problem with Z-axis inaccuracy (squashed layers?) | <p>Well, lacking any other suggestions, I took a deep breath and "monkeyed" with the blind eccentric adjusters for the wheeled assemblies for z-movement. <br>I say this as plural since there is one on the left side (power side) and one on the right side.<br>As I feared, because you cannot freely slide these, it is really difficult to tell if you are tightening or loosening the "movement".<br>Based on the <em>potential</em> cause as I identified in the original question,my goal was to slightly loosen them up.<br>On a positive note, I was able to measure the symptom by using a caliper to check the height of the horizontal gantry above the bed when "homed"(0) then up 10, 20, 30 etc in a non-printing environment. Indeed the height measurements verified that the progression of height did <em>not</em> correspond with the requested/reported movement as shown on the screen. <br>The variation was much worse on the (slave) right side... Counting on nothing more than dumb luck as I tried adjusting the two sides, I ended up with acceptable performance. <br>So for now I am done screwing around with it. <br>If anyone has a great suggestion as to how to better know whether the wheels are getting tighter or looser when making this adjustment, it could help anyone needing to make the adjustment.</p>
|
2022-01-22T13:20:06.707 | |3d-models|resin| | <p>I have been printing a few props for tabletop gaming: a statue, some walls, wine barrels... and I've noticed that resin gets trapped inside. If it stayed firmly inside I wouldn't care too much, but a few times now a model has cracked a tiny amount and liquid resin has started flowing out.</p>
<p>I know the obvious solution is just to make the model solid, but I assumed that since all the slicer tools have an option for hollowing with infill there is a solution to this.</p>
<p>I haven't tried too many things yet, because I am a little anxious to fiddle too much with the printer setting. I went from having 0.5 mm walls to 0.8 mm but it still happened. I have tried hex-grid infill and pillars. I also increased the exposure time by a second (from 8 to 9), but this was only to see if the object would be stronger and thus prevent the cracking.</p>
<p>I have considered increasing the Z-lift distance just to have the object longer out of the resin bath to drip off better.</p>
| 18792 | Fluid resin gets trapped inside my prints | <h2>Don't hollow most miniatures below the 40 mm-scale</h2>
<p>Tabletop miniatures are quite small in scale. Often they have very thin details. As a result, hollowing them out is not advisable in the first place and you will have the best results by printing them solidly. Most wargames use something between the 16 mm to 34 mm scale, but the problem is still present at the 40 mm scale. So bite the bullet and print solid for small items - it also gives the model a little weight to stay where they shall be on the table.</p>
<p>Only if you start to print things like small busts or vehicles that have quite some hollow pace, you could conceivably manage to include the needed geometry, as elaborated below, and then hollow out the models accordingly.</p>
<h2>Hollow prints properly</h2>
<p>In case you do have a hollowed print, you need to include two vents to allow the exchange of air and prevent <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints">cupping</a>:</p>
<p>First, you need a vent for air to enter the model. This is best placed at the very top of where the included volume will wit on the printer and needs to be accessible to air once the model is raised out of the vat. For safety two bores to let in the air should be present.</p>
<p>The second vent is somewhat optional unless the print takes <em>really</em> long. If you include it, it needs to be at the very lowest point of the included volume to prevent trapping resin inside and allow it to drain the resin out of the model hanging from the print bed. Should the volume have separate lowest points, you'd need to include multiple drainage vents.</p>
<p>All vents also need to be sizeable enough to allow the viscous resin to drain from them. About 3 mm² (~2 mm diameter) is the absolute minimum for low viscous resin. High viscous resins require larger holes of about 10 mm² (~3.5 mm).</p>
<p>Also, no point of the model's interior volume should neck down to below those dimensions or you face the risk of having resin clog those neckings - which is again why you don't hollow small miniatures.</p>
<p>Further listening (especially for larger prints) is here from <a href="https://youtu.be/Rhyf_JttQEY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Angus/Maker Muse</a>, who shows a way to hollow out with a hollow base but skipped the drain vent, and <a href="https://youtu.be/Me8I_wiKMyI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Mark Rhodes</a>, who prefers to use 5 mm holes where possible.</p>
<h2>Avoiding holes?</h2>
<p>There are ways to avoid holes altogether, <strong>if</strong> you can orient the item in such a way that at all times one <em>side</em> of the print is open. Let's take for example a crate or barrel:</p>
<p>We could hollow the item and remove the face we want to be on the table later. This way we shape the item into a cup. We could add air access or resin vent, but we could <em>also</em> just put the missing wall to be facing in X or Y and then angle the item ever so slightly to give the item good resin drainage and totally avoid the need for an extra hole in a surface we want to retain. This is how you'd print a cup without a hole, as I had explained in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints">Why cupping is bad for SLA</a></p>
<p>Or, you could time your return to the printer to right after the print is finished, you turn the print around so the resin that was trapped inside starts to drain down to the print platform and over that into the vat.</p>
|
2022-01-23T19:27:30.450 | |creality-ender-5|layer-height| | <p>I'm going to 3D print a series of scaffolds and armatures that I'm going to use as the skeleton\structure for clay sculptures as an alternative to using twisted wire, because I can print dozens of identical ones off faster than I can twist them out of wire.</p>
<p>They don't need to look pretty, they just need to be able support a little weight.</p>
<p>What is the thickest sensible layer height that I can uses to get them printed off quickly?</p>
| 18798 | What is the thickest sensible layer height that an Ender 5 will print at? | <p>Your maximum layer height is related to the nozzle diameter. Typically, a printer is sold with a 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, unless otherwise specified. One expects to be able to <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter_8344/" rel="noreferrer">print safely to eighty percent of nozzle diameter</a>, which would be 0.32 mm layer height. Quote from linked Prusa site.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Layer height vs nozzle diameter</strong></p>
<p>Layer height should not exceed 80 % of the nozzle diameter. If you are
using the standard 0.4mm nozzle, the maximal layer height is about
0.32 mm. However, with a 0.6mm nozzle, it’s possible to achieve up to a 0.48 mm layer height.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2022-01-26T16:10:12.303 | |creality-ender-3|pla|temperature|stringing| | <p>I've tried different retraction speeds and distances using calibration models, Z-hop, coasting but nothing prevented stringing. Now I tried printing at 230 °C and that seems to do the trick. Even 220 °C gives me strings. The filament is quite new.</p>
<p>Has somebody had a similar experience and could you tell me if something else is wrong maybe?</p>
| 18809 | Ender 3 print temperature | <p>It just needed drying, even though it was brand new. Thnx @R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE.</p>
|
2022-01-28T16:59:56.010 | |3d-models|stl|blender|meshmixer| | <p>I ran the thickness gave these errors. Now what should I do to fix the errors with Blender or Meshmixer?
Blender thickness analysis:
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q6sit.jpg" alt="enter image description here" />!</p>
<p>With meahmixer:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vvzq1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">enter image description here</a></p>
| 18816 | Meshmixer or Blender thickness feature | <p>The blue error flags are usually trivial. You should be able to click on the blue ones while in Analysis, Inspector and have the model correct those locations. Consider to do one at a time, as you can then Control-Z (undo) to back out if the repair is damaging.</p>
<p>The other flags usually point to a much more severe problem and are likely to remove portions of the mesh. For those, use the select feature to surround the openings, then F to fill. Unfortunately, such a repair may convert what might be a contour into a flat surface, but the options in the Fill feature may provide some relief.</p>
<p>After performing the fill, run the inspector again.</p>
<p>If this is not satisfactory and you are using Windows 10, 3DBuilder will often create repairs that fit the original model quite well.</p>
|
2022-01-29T21:46:59.037 | |extruder|creality-cr-10|extruder-driver|paste-extruder| | <p>I have build a Syringe Pump with a simple stepper motor (NEMA 17), and now I want to actuate it through my 3D printer.</p>
<p>I successfully replaced the main extruder with it and it worked, although I had to still warm up the hot end as Marlin doesn't want to actuate the extruder at cool temperature.</p>
<p>Anyways, I am realizing that my Creality CR10 v3's board has a slot for a second extruder, so I would like to plug the syringe pump there.</p>
<p>I did it but when trying to control it through OctoPrint, I have an error saying that my printer reported a default.</p>
<p>I guess it's not plug-and-play, and it's probably complaining about the absence of second thermistor and so on , right?</p>
<p>What should a complete newbie like me do to be able to control E2 with just a stepper motor connected to it?</p>
| 18821 | Plug simple stepper motor NEMA 17 on E2 slot of the main board on Creality CR10 | <p>To prevent extrusion at cold temperatures, you should enable the feature called "allow cold extrusion" using G-code <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudes" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M302 S0</code></a>.</p>
<p>Using a spare stepper slot requires building new firmware and uploading it to your board. The most obvious choice is using Marlin firmware, as this is the software that runs on your current board. You need to add an extra extruder in the configuration file.</p>
|
2022-01-30T13:38:28.893 | |3d-models|meshmixer| | <p>How to fill these holes in mandibular jaw in order to 3d print it?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3yWt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3yWt.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 18825 | How to fill big holes that Meshmixer couldn't inspect? | <p>I have not used meshmixer, but both blender and meshlab have features to repair non-manifold meshes, including a way to manually fix large holes.</p>
<p>With both of these packages, you can have it select holes, and then either attempt to fill them automatically (which frequently gives terrible results), or manually select a few edges of a specific hole and add a few triangles at a time until it is fully covered (which gives much better results if you choose edges carefully).</p>
|
2022-02-02T05:38:25.080 | |print-quality| | <p>I would need a simple 3D printer for small 3D objects. I have seen that for example ANYCUBIC has very cheap ones. Are they worth it's money?</p>
| 18843 | Are those cheap ANYCUBIC 3D printers worth it's money? | <p>From what I have heard from a friend using Anycubic printers is that they are good for the money. They claim that the printers are reliable and rarely get any faults in them. Some cheaper printers may not have the most up-to-date spec however if you're going to be doing just basic printing then I'm pretty sure it'll be good enough to get you going. The budget here isn't clear however my current printer for the last 2 years has been the Creality Ender 3 Pro. It is an extremely good printer for the money (around $200) and has everything to get you going as well as being fully upgradeable if you are into that and I personally would argue this is as good as you can get for the money.</p>
|
2022-02-02T16:37:04.620 | |3d-models|3d-design|resin| | <p>I would like to create something like a treasure box model. I want to print two parts: one is the base and the other one is the lid. However, I want them to snap fit together like LEGO pieces when pressed against each other, creating a perfect seal.</p>
<p>For example, something like this egg where it has two sided, but when pressed against each other they "click-in".</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrZF8.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrZF8.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Is there a mechanism to attach two printed part?</strong></p>
<p>(Note:I am using Solidworks and a Formlab resin printer)</p>
| 18846 | Can you snap fit 3D resin printed parts? | <p>The mechanisms for "click-in" joining are varied. It's important to note that they are not resin-printer specific, although one should make considerations for the material from which the parts are made.</p>
<p>Some resin printed models will be brittle and would require that the click-in feature be constructed with minimal distortion, while others could be printed with more flexible resin and tolerate much greater distortion, but may also release more easily.</p>
<p>From a <a href="https://pinshape.com/items/11532-3d-printed-popcorn-hole-click-joints" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pinshape</a> site:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTknA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTknA.png" alt="click-joint ball" /></a></p>
<p>Note that in this image, the joint requires a matching spherical portion to accept the male portion. This is presented as a sample, not as a complete answer.</p>
<p>The upper most portion of the male segment is a cylinder of slightly larger size than the main body. The top of the cylinder has a taper which enables the receiving hole to force the sides inward, beyond the matching notch in the receiving hole.</p>
<p>The underside of this larger cylinder can be bluff, making removal difficult, or can be tapered to match, allowing for easier removal.</p>
<p>Consider that the cylinder can be stretched out, flattened in such a way that the cross sections of the male portion and the receiving hole are slots rather than cylinders.</p>
<p>The pages at <a href="https://www.hubs.com/knowledge-base/how-design-snap-fit-joints-3d-printing/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">hubs.com</a> provide greater insight to designing snap-fit joints in 3D printing. The following image represents fairly closely the above dissertation regarding deflection:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvopU.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvopU.png" alt="click joint" /></a></p>
<p>Much more detail regarding design can be found on the linked site.</p>
|
2022-02-03T00:40:18.170 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>In the Ultimaker Cura print settings menu, there is a dropdown menu labeled "profiles", with Super Quality, Dynamic Quality, Standard Quality, and Low Quality. What do these settings do exactly? If I set it to Super Quality for example, it changes things like the layer height settings, but I am able to then change those settings back to whatever I want and profile remains on Super Quality.</p>
<p>What are these quality settings? I know this is probably an obvious question but I am basically a beginner and for some reason can find little info on google.</p>
| 18848 | What is the quality setting in Ultimaker Cura do? (Super, Dynamic, Standard, Low) | <p>According to the <a href="https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012606599-Quality-settings" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ultimaker Support</a> website, these are called "Quality settings". You could think of them as "resolution" settings.</p>
<p>There are 3 different adjustments made when changing these settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>Layer height</li>
<li>Initial layer height</li>
<li>Line width</li>
</ul>
<p>A smaller layer height will produce a smoother surface. Initial layer height can create a stronger adhesion to the build plate. Line width will determine how much plastic material will be extruded.</p>
|
2022-02-04T03:58:26.573 | |creality-ender-3|marlin|calibration| | <p>I'm new to 3D printing, but my printer supports Linear Advance. I heard that it offers improvements in print quality. I used <a href="https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin Linear Advance Pattern Generator</a> to generate a print with horizontal lines at a variety of k-values.</p>
<p>Which K-Value would be best from my below image?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8UAF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8UAF.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 18857 | Which K-Value would you choose here for linear advance? | <p>Go with the sort of tower 0scar suggested and look for corner bulge/rounding. It's a lot more useful than the single-layer test pattern from the Marlin site, which I've found can be misleading.</p>
<p>With that said, just looking at your test print, I would go with the lowest K factor that gives acceptable-looking results, so around 0.5 or so. Overshooting is more likely to harm your print quality than undershooting, and will limit your print speed too. When I used the original bowden on my Ender 3, my calibrated K factor for PLA was 0.6, so I think this is in the range of what's expected.</p>
|
2022-02-04T21:14:47.957 | |slicing|retraction| | <p>In Cura slicer, it is possible to display\visualize where in the print process retractions occur for any given model?</p>
<p>For example, to have them highlighted in the preview window.</p>
<p>I'm making my own models\sculpts and want to optimise them to reduce the amount of time that retraction occurs.</p>
| 18867 | In Cura, is it possible to display where retraction occur on any given model? | <p>Yes, it ss possible to visualize the retractions in the preview of the sliced object in Cura.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8SQp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8SQp.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>In the "Preview" window mode with "Layer view" option enabled (after you sliced the object), you are able to select the "Line Type" of the "Color scheme" and enable travel lines. Dark blue lines are unretracted and light blue is retracted.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE8Ah.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE8Ah.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2022-02-07T03:16:59.410 | |creality-ender-3|extruder|stepper| | <p>I was getting some weird under extrusion and noticed that the gear on the extruder was a bit worn.</p>
<p>I decided to replace it with a dual-drive extruder, but that makes the E-step way off. I tried to run 100 mm through without any PTFE tube and only got 67 mm.</p>
<p>I am trying to figure out where I need to change the number.</p>
<p>I have the 4.2.7 motherboard, and I also put on the Creality touch screen.</p>
<p>It doesn't seem to have any place to enter those settings that I can find.</p>
| 18876 | Adjust E-step on Ender 3 | <p>If there is no interface to set the value through the display, you can always set the E-steps per G-code.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M92</code></a> <strong>Set axis_steps_per_unit</strong></p>
</blockquote>
<p>There are at least 2 options, the first is to connect a USB cable and connect to a console (<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal">What is a printer console/terminal?</a>) or second "print" the applicable G-codes by creating a text file (with a <code>.gcode</code>/<code>.g</code> file extension) and place the <code>M92 E139</code> on the first line and <code>M500</code> on the second line. The latter option requires you to print the file once as it stores the new E-steps value.</p>
<hr />
<p><em>E.g. the current value for the Ender 3 is 93 which gives you 67 mm, to get to 100 mm you would need: <span class="math-container">$\displaystyle \frac{93\times100}{67} \approx 139$</span> steps, so <code>M92 E139</code> would set a new value. Store the value with <code>M500</code>. Note that this board stores the settings on the SD card as it has no EEPROM, so have an SD card present in the slot of the board! If you're unable to store the value you can also put it in the start G-code of the slicer, but that is not a preferred method.</em></p>
|
2022-02-08T12:08:53.350 | |marlin| | <p>I was wondering what the exact difference between the switches Q and D for the <code>G29</code> command is? They seem to do the same:</p>
<pre><code>[D<bool>]
Dry-Run mode. Just probe the grid but don’t update the bed leveling data
[Q<bool>]
Query the current leveling state
</code></pre>
| 18888 | G29 difference between Q and D | <p><strong>TL;DR</strong><br>
Yes they are different, but whether <code>Q</code> is active depends on the a configuration setting, else it gets ignored and a regular <code>G29</code> will be executed.</p>
<hr />
<h2>Option 'D'</h2>
<p>With option <code>D</code> the <code>G29</code> code is being run in dry-run mode:</p>
<pre><code> * D Dry-Run mode. Just evaluate the bed Topology - Don't apply
* or alter the bed level data. Useful to check the topology
* after a first run of G29.
</code></pre>
<p>If you look into the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/bedlevel/abl/G29.cpp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">source code of <code>G29</code> for ABL</a> the <code>D</code> option will set the boolean <code>abl.dryrun</code>:</p>
<pre><code>abl.dryrun = parser.boolval('D') || TERN0(PROBE_MANUALLY, no_action);
</code></pre>
<p>This boolean will cause many parts of the code to be excluded, e.g.:</p>
<pre><code>// Unapply the offset because it is going to be immediately applied
// and cause compensation movement in Z
...
// Auto Bed Leveling is complete! Enable if possible.
...
probe.preheat_for_probing(LEVELING_NOZZLE_TEMP, LEVELING_BED_TEMP);
...
// vector_3 planeNormal related code
...
extrapolate_unprobed_bed_level();
...
// Create the matrix but don't correct the position yet
...
// Correct the current XYZ position based on the tilted plane.
...
// Unapply the offset because it is going to be immediately applied
// and cause compensation movement in Z
...
// Auto Bed Leveling is complete! Enable if possible.
</code></pre>
<h2>Option 'Q'</h2>
<p>Option <code>Q</code> in command <code>G29</code> code is available when manually probing is active in the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1067" rel="nofollow noreferrer">configuration.h</a> file:</p>
<pre><code>/**
* The "Manual Probe" provides a means to do "Auto" Bed Leveling without a probe.
* Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands
* or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.
*/
//#define PROBE_MANUALLY
</code></pre>
<p>From the sources:</p>
<pre><code> *
* To do manual probing simply repeat G29 until the procedure is complete.
* The first G29 accepts parameters. 'G29 Q' for status, 'G29 A' to abort.
*
* Q Query leveling and G29 state
</code></pre>
<p>Using the <code>Q</code> in the command will set the boolean variable <code>seenQ </code> which enables extra output as if in debugging mode.</p>
<pre><code> // G29 Q is also available if debugging
#if ENABLED(DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE)
if (seenQ || DEBUGGING(LEVELING)) log_machine_info();
if (DISABLED(PROBE_MANUALLY) && seenQ) G29_RETURN(false);
#endif
</code></pre>
<p>When going through the code, you stumble again on:</p>
<pre><code>abl.dryrun = parser.boolval('D') || TERN0(PROBE_MANUALLY, no_action);
</code></pre>
<p>In the first option ('D') the first part of the statement already was <code>true</code>, so the latter part was of no interest as this statement is an <code>OR</code> statement. Now (for the 'Q' option) the latter part is of interest, the first part rendered <code>false</code>. The latter part is a <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/development/coding_standards.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin ternary macro</a>:</p>
<pre><code>TERN0(OPTION, T) If OPTION is enabled emit T otherwise emit 0 (false).
</code></pre>
<p>So, if <code>PROBE_MANUALLY</code> was enabled/defined in the configuration.h file, the ternary macro returns the <code>no_action</code> (a "one"/<code>true</code>, as this a boolean: <code>no_action = seenA || seenQ</code>), otherwise a "zero"/<code>false</code>. And if so, the <code>abl.dryrun</code> is <code>true</code> and all code as listed in the 'D' option will be omitted as well. But, additional exclusion apply for the <code>no_action</code>; this will cause the function to be exited early (<a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/bedlevel/abl/G29.cpp#L478" rel="nofollow noreferrer">line 478</a>):</p>
<pre><code>if (no_action) G29_RETURN(false);
</code></pre>
<hr />
<p><em>So far a generic answer, the following is specific for the Ender 5 Plus.</em></p>
<p>In looking into another question from you it appears that the printer used is the Ender 5 Plus. If you are using stock firmware, you can peek into the sources as they are being shared (through their <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16596EvFWv9C9ClbavmHPc4J3MJ4_N3h_" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google Drive</a>) by Creality for the Ender 5 Plus.</p>
<p>Digging into the sources, the firmware version is from the 1.1.x branch, they reference to 2016/2017 Marlin development. If you look into the sources, the configuration file doesn't define the needed <code>PROBE_MANUALLY</code> for the <code>Q</code> to become active in a <code>G29 Q</code> sent to the printer, in such a case the <code>Q</code> is ignored and a regular <code>G29</code> will be executed. Do note that the implementation of the <code>G29</code> code is able to handle the <code>Q</code> option, but because it is not enabled in this configuration it will not work.</p>
|
2022-02-08T17:22:36.207 | |3d-models|3d-design|resin|water-resistance| | <p>I would like to create a water chamber (Box) that maintains moisture. My main idea right to use a snap-fit model (Two faces). However, I feel that the areas where the two face snap-fit will allow air to go through and evaporate the water. In simple terms, I would like to create a snap-fit box that can maintain water inside like a water bottle. (Moisture cage)</p>
<p>Note:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>the snap-fit edges are small (gasket is hard to implement)</p>
</li>
<li><p>the web part will be covered (ignore it)</p>
</li>
<li><p>I use Formlab 3 SLA resin printer</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>I there something I can use to perfectly seal the moisture inside? or coat my box from the inside to prevent air exchange?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbpZM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbpZM.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 18889 | Can you have a perfect seal to maintain moisture? | <p>I don't understand how you can keep moisture, since the model you show is full of holes.</p>
<p>However, assuming you are closing them or something else, then you can use "rotational moulding": put some liquid sealant inside the box, close the box, then start rotating it in every direction so that the sealant coats all the internal surfaces.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yzxlBrcn2Fg?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
|
2022-02-09T06:57:57.597 | |pla|troubleshooting|adhesion|snapmaker-original| | <p>I'm using my printer for some baby toys. My last print was one of those <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3556006/files" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pillars for stacking rings</a>, base 5. The basic format includes a base and a pillar coming up perpendicularly in the middle. A box with a cylinder sticking out of it.</p>
<p>Settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>0.3 mm layers,</li>
<li>5 layers of base/bottom/shell,</li>
<li>20 % gyroid infill,</li>
<li>PLA,</li>
<li>80 mm/s,</li>
<li>210 °C, bed at 60 °C.</li>
</ul>
<p>Three hours of printing later, I took it out of the printer, it feels <em>really</em> solid, all the surfaces are rigid, no compression or anything.</p>
<p>I hand it to my kid, she drops it and the pillar just detaches along the Z layer seam at the base.</p>
<p>Is there anything I can do, either model or printing-wise to reinforce it, aside from printing it horizontally with a bunch of supports?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MefU6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MefU6.jpg" alt="The broken Part" /></a></p>
| 18891 | Reinforcing inter-layer seams | <p>The other answers are good, but a big part of your problem is also the gyroid infill, which has very poor layer adhesion strength due to being a 3D infill pattern where there's very low surface area contact between consecutive layers of infill. This isue is amplified by the thick layer height, which makes the gyroid paths differ from layer to layer more than they would with thin layers. If you switch to a fully 2D pattern like triangles where the overlap between consecutive layers is 100%, it should be stronger.</p>
<p>If your extruder is strong and you're not pushing the limits of your printer's extrusion rate, this doesn't matter so much. But I found it was a big issue on the original ungeared extruder of my Ender 3 (before replacing that) when trying to print at anything above 30 mm/s or so. For example, printed M8 bolts came out looking fine, but immediatey snapped at the head when tightened - a failure mode very similar to what you're seeing. Switching to a better infill pattern mitigated it.</p>
|
2022-02-09T15:44:02.963 | |3d-models|3d-design|resin|resolution|water-resistance| | <p>I am using a Formlabs 3 resin printer and I am would like to create a bottle design with a cap. my objective is for the cap to completely prevent any liquid from going in or out of the bottle (even it was shaken) and also prevent dry air from seeping in and effecting the moisture inside.</p>
<p>(Note: I am not planning to cure my print with UV light as I feel it ruins the smoothness and flexibility of the model. tell me if I am wrong)</p>
<p><strong>Is that possible by just printing? or do I need some coatings or extra steps?</strong></p>
| 18898 | Can 3D printed bottle caps make a perfect seal? | <h2>Yes and no</h2>
<p>If you can print very tight tolerances and the bottle itself does deform a tad to press into the cap, then yes, you will get a perfect interference fit.</p>
<p>If you want to go absolutely sure, a little seal of rubber into which the mouth of the bottle presses can add the last bit needed. alternatively, a viscous grease on the threads can act as a sealant.</p>
<p>In case you want to pretty much seal the bottle forever and not remove the cap, you might just as well add a few droplets of liquid resin or glue to the threads of the cap before screwing it on, then make sure that it sets and seals. Loctite is one such sealing glue often used.</p>
<h2>CURE IT</h2>
<p>However you are wrong not to cure your model: unless cured, the model is not safe to the touch without gloves as the bonds are not set and liquid resins are dangerous skin irritants. If you want to use the flexibility of not fully cured resin to seal your containers, you might want to seal the bottle with the <em>raw</em> caps and then cure the combined item right after.</p>
|
2022-02-09T18:13:11.570 | |troubleshooting|resin|color|uv-printer| | <p>I am using a FORM LABS 3 printer with clear resin. After printing the model, I wash it with Isopropenyl and dry it. Then I cure it using Formlabs Form Cure for 5 minutes under 60 C°.
After curing the model, the clear print loses some of its transparency.</p>
<p>Is this normal? can it be avoided?</p>
| 18901 | Is it normal for clear resin to lose transparency after curing? | <p>Clouding is a known issue with colored transparent resins, as is yellowing with clear resin.</p>
<p>Uncle Jessy did quite a good video explaining the issue and how to best avoid it.</p>
<p>The conclusion was that you should wash and dry them with as little UV exposure as possible (Drying them inside a box in a warm room rather than in direct sunlight), then coating them with Clear Coat lacquer or a similar product, then curing them.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ya0DSVYXsE&t=5s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">enter link description here</a></p>
|
2022-02-13T00:03:15.497 | |cost|estimation| | <p>So I have little to no idea regarding 3D printing and was building web-based software for a client, I have 3 values in my access,</p>
<ul>
<li>Material: PLA</li>
<li>Material Cost: 1300 kr per kilogram</li>
<li>Infill Percentage/Density: 50 %</li>
<li>Material length: 13000 mm</li>
<li>Printing Cost Per Hour: 70 kr</li>
</ul>
<p>Given this information, what would be the formula to calculate the rough estimation of the time required to 3D print this? I know that it's different for all the 3D printers but still, I would like to have a way to calculate a rough estimation of the 3D printing time, that possibly but not necessarily, touches the reality of most 3D printers.</p>
| 18913 | How to calculate a rough 3D printing time? | <p>You'd certainly need to know more information than that provided. 3D printers have speeds ranging from 20 mm per second to as high as ten times that (extreme 3D printer sports!) and the speed during printing varies with the geometry of the object being printed.</p>
<p>More considerations involve printer nozzle size, object layer thickness (if uniform throughout), printer model, slicer software used, slicer software profile used.</p>
<p>For a rough estimate with the information, you could expect a variance fifty percent or more, if someone was willing to take the risk of making an estimation.</p>
|
2022-02-13T17:58:47.500 | |estimation| | <p>So I have the following pieces of information based on which I want to calculate the estimated time It would take to 3D print something.</p>
<ul>
<li>3D Object's width, height, and depth (millimeters)</li>
<li>Its weight</li>
<li>Printing Speed (millimeters per second)</li>
<li>Layer Height</li>
<li>Printer Nozzle Diameter</li>
<li>Printer Nozzle Height</li>
</ul>
<p>Given this info, how to calculate the 3D printing time?</p>
| 18921 | Formula of calculating 3D printing time | <p>In general, there is no easy way to compute 3D printing time from those quantities. Unless you have a printer with <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAwaGuEbM2o" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>extreme</strong></a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8p46wDM5KM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">kinematic</a> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHI9v4wh4aA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">capabilities</a> (and to some extent even then), print speed is highly limited by acceleration and deceleration for toolpaths that are deeply a function of the specific geometry of the model to be printed. This makes it really hard to get a good estimate for time without actually slicing the model and simulating the printer's execution of the resulting gcode.</p>
<p>If the object is sufficiently simple, or if your print speed is so slow as to make acceleration to the max speed nearly instantaneous (but travel speed isn't so slow as to be a dominating factor), you may be able to use any one of the quantities you know to estimate print time half-decently.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Weight/mass: if you actually know the mass when 3D printed (with the wall/infill settings you'll be using) then mass divided by material density gives you material volume, and you can divide by the extrusion rate in mm³/s (computed from layer height, line width, and print speed) to convert volume to seconds.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Object dimensions: if it's roughly a cube or other geometric object you know surface area and volume formulae for, you can compute surface area, multiply by shell thickness, then add the infill percentage times the volume to get an estimate for printed material volume, and use the same above volume to time conversion.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>If the conditions under which you might be able to get a reasonable estimate don't apply, your best bet is to actually slice the model and see what the slicer software estimates, or feed its output to a gcode analyzer/simulation software.</p>
|
2022-02-14T20:36:58.183 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|troubleshooting| | <p>I recently purchased a <strong>Creality Ender 3 Max</strong> as my first 3D printer and overall I am quite impressed with the print quality after only leveling the bed.</p>
<p>However, every print I have done so far has had <strong>bumps on the outer walls, limited to a section of the lower layers</strong>, usually around 6 layers in height.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0tRrd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="White 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using default Cura settings"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0tRrd.jpg" alt="White 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using default Cura settings" title="White 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using default Cura settings" /></a></p>
<p>Standard print settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>1.75 mm PLA filament</li>
<li>0.2 mm layer height</li>
<li>20 % infill</li>
</ul>
<p>I have tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Prusa Slic3r (default settings) vs Cura for my slicing. Prusa Slic3r exaggerated the effect compared to Cura.</li>
<li>Increasing the extruder and heated bed temperatures (200 °C & 50 °C, 210 °C & 60 °C, 225 °C & 70 °C). Higher temperatures seem to reduce the effect.</li>
<li>Reducing the print speed from 50.0 mm/s to 35.0 mm/s. Slower print speed seems to reduce the effect.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQXPX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Black 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using slower print speed"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQXPX.jpg" alt="Black 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using slower print speed" title="Black 3D Benchy Boat with bumps using slower print speed" /></a></p>
<p>My next experiment will be to combine a higher extrusion temperature with reduced print speeds however I suspect that this is just making the print more forgiving and masking a different cause.</p>
<p><strong>Does anybody know of a way I can eliminate these artifacts?</strong><br />
Further experiments I can run to debug this or even the correct terminology or search terms for this (I'm having difficulty finding anything that looks like this problem online) would also be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p><strong>Updates:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Test print with 0.1 mm Z Offset shows a slight improvement but does not resolve the issue.</li>
<li>Test print with 0.2 mm Z Offset shows no improvement over 0.1 mm Z Offset and nearly compromises bed adhesion.</li>
<li>I printed a 20 mm cube benchmark. X and Y measurements are spot on but the Z axis measures 19.2 mm.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uh6ho.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uh6ho.jpg" alt="XYZ Calibration Cube with bumps and short Z axis" /></a></li>
</ul>
| 18927 | Bumps on outer walls consistantly affecting lower layers | <p>I think I found an answer.</p>
<p>When the gantry is low (Z less than 100 mm high) the Xmax (right hand) side of the gantry has some play, if I move the gantry higher the rollers tighten up.</p>
<p>I went through Luke Hatfield's X Gantry Rework (<a href="https://www.th3dstudio.com/hc/guides/community-guides/3d-printer-help-guide-creality-others/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PDF section 4.1.2</a>, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bFYH0X3qjk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">video tutorial</a>), making deviations for my own machine (the vertical extrusions are mounted to the side of the base on the Ender 3 Max rather than the top).<br/>
Tightening the rollers using the eccentric bolts and trying to get the gantry as level as possible seems to have improved the issue immensely.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVZcM.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVZcM.jpg" alt="XYZ Cube" /></a>
The Z measurement for the 20 mm cube benchmark is now 19.7 mm (0.5 mm improvement)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIQK8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hIQK8.jpg" alt="3D Benchy Boat with significantly less bumping" /></a>
And the bumps on the boats are a lot less noticeable.</p>
<p>While reassembling I had some difficulty lining up the screws on the top horizontal extrusion, which would suggest that the vertical extrusions are not aligned correctly as suggested in item 1 of this post discussing problems found on a stock Ender 3 Max:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The vertical extrusions are out, there appears to be a fault in the design and the extrusions are about 2.2mm closer together at the bottom than at the top.. what this means is if you move the carriage to half way up and adjust the wheels perfectly, when you move it to the top the outside wheels will be too tight, and when you move it to the bottom the inside wheels will be too tight!</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Max/comments/qa93m6/problems_i_have_found_with_stock_ender_3_max_and/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.reddit.com/r/Ender3Max/comments/qa93m6/problems_i_have_found_with_stock_ender_3_max_and/</a>
<br/>The suggestion in that post is to install a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4721046" rel="nofollow noreferrer">printed 2.2 mm shim</a> between the vertical extrusion and the base. I'll give the shim fix a try at a later time, for now the quality of the prints is good enough.</p>
|
2022-02-15T02:54:12.907 | |bed-leveling|creality-cr-10| | <p>I have just bought a Creality CR-10 Smart 3D printer, and - as part of the rite of passage of newbies - I am struggling with getting a usable initial layer. Whilst trying to make sense of what I was seeing in the net and correlating it with what I was experiencing with my printer, I thought to check the printer's credentials (I had assumed it was a recent model). However, looking at the information on the LED screen, I see:</p>
<div class="s-table-container">
<table class="s-table">
<thead>
<tr>
<th></th>
<th></th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Machine type</td>
<td>CR-10 Smart</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Firmware version</td>
<td>HW 1.0.6</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Screen version</td>
<td>T18</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Hardware version</td>
<td>DWIN 4.3</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<p>Can anyone comment on whether this is recent or ancient? Is it a V1 or a V2?</p>
<p>As a software engineer of several decades standing, but a complete newbie to 3D printing, I'm suffering from culture shock, and I'm struggling to understand why my printer doesn't just work "out of the box" like my line printers do.</p>
<p>I find it particularly difficult sorting out the information about Creality's various CR-10* models, partly because of the naming conventions, but chiefly because my CR-10 Smart doesn't look like any that I have seen referred to anywhere in the net. I was told that the CR-10 Smart had auto bed levelling (ABL) built in, but when I search for <code>CR-10S ABL</code> I only find stuff about add-ons like BLTouch, and nothing about the CR-10 Smart with built-in ABL.</p>
<p>Add into the mix the now traditional Internet problem that the date of web pages and whether they are still relevant is often unclear.</p>
<p>Then I found a Youtube video by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4I8b5-71rk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WillCaddy</a>, which suggested that CR-10S printers with Creality firmware do not have ABL enabled, and that to get functioning ABL you had to install TH3D.</p>
<p>Is this true?</p>
<p>If anyone can help me with any of this, I would be very grateful. I am working my way slowly through Michael Laws' excellent <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">"Teaching Tech" channel</a>, but I'm impatient...</p>
| 18932 | How do you make a new CR-10 Smart do auto bed-levelling? | <p>@0scar asked me to post this answer and accept it (see the comment above). I'll try to describe everything I did, most of which helped a little bit but didn't really solve the problem. Bear in mind that I'm a complete newbie to 3D printing.</p>
<ol>
<li>Although I knew my printer was a Creality, I didn't know that a CR-10 Smart is not the same thing as a CR-10S. Mine is a CR-10 Smart.</li>
<li>I upgraded the firmware from 1.0.7 to 1.0.10. I managed to brick the computer entirely doing this, but I managed to fix it in the end. I found <a href="https://yarkspirifantasyart.com/cr-10-smart-how-to-update-the-firmware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a> particularly helpful whilst doing this.</li>
<li>I used OctoPrint's Bed Visualizer to update the mesh for my printer's ABL. The mesh is stored in EEPROM, so this doesn't have to be done often.</li>
<li>I didn't understand how OctoPrint's Bed Visualizer managed to produce the shape for the print plate that it did, so I checked the bolts under the glass plate, discovered they were loose, tightened them up, re-ran the mesh generation and got a considerably more plausible plate geometry.</li>
<li>I discovered that Creality Slicer (a variant of Cura) does not include <code>G29</code> or <code>M420 S1</code> in the G-code that it generates by default for the CR-10 Smart, so I added <code>M420 S1</code> to the printer's machine settings which tells it to use the mesh stored by Bed Visualizer.</li>
<li>I have been following <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/index.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Teaching Tech's 3D Printer Calibration</a> and, after upgrading the firmware, I started setting up my first layer generation and got a reasonable result. At this point I thought the problem was solved.</li>
<li>I celebrated by printing a 3D Benchy, but that was a sobering experience and I returned to Teaching Tech.</li>
<li>The next step in Teaching Tech's 3D Printer Calibration that I tried was <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#temp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">temperature tuning</a>. That was a complete disaster, so I moved on to <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction" rel="nofollow noreferrer">retraction tuning</a>, since the Benchy had lots of stringing. Retraction tuning was also disastrous, so I decided to stand back and think a bit.</li>
<li>For some reason I looked more closely at my printer's nozzle. For some reason, I assumed 0.4 mm was a kind of standard for a hot end nozzle, so I was using that in my settings, also because I thought my printer had a 0.4 mm nozzle. However, closer examination revealed that the nozzle is at least 1.0 mm, if not 1.5 mm. Not surprisingly, once I told the slicer the correct nozzle size, printing improved dramatically.</li>
</ol>
<p>In the meantime, I believe that my basic problem was always the nozzle size, though – as you can see above – there were a number of other things that I corrected on the way.</p>
<p>So now @0scar and I believe that the problem addressed in the title has been solved, and – in accordance with @0scar's wishes – I will accept my answer, though his input was instrumental in finding the solution.</p>
<p>I shall now devote myself to the rest of Teaching Tech's 3D Printer Calibration.</p>
|
2022-02-16T18:23:28.403 | |resin| | <p>I'm considering buying my first 3D printer. The only place in my house where I have enough space is the garage, and I fear a PLA printer will suffer from the possible temperature differences I may have there.</p>
<p>For this reason (And also the fact that it seems smoother) i'm considering buying a resin printer (like the Elegoo Mars), but I wanted to know if the fact it will be in a garage could be a bad idea? I imagine resin printing is far less sensible to temperature variations, but I may be wrong.</p>
<p>I will only print as a hobby, probably some figurines for me and my kids to paint, or small hardware pieces / boxes for electronic components.</p>
| 18940 | Is resin printing correct for my needs & limitations? | <h2>Resin likes it warm and dark</h2>
<p>Resins increase in viscosity at low temperatures, so having low temperatures may have bad effects on the prints. However, Resin also likes it dark, so if your garage has a temperature above about 10 °C and is dry enough to prevent condensation, then your garage would be a good place.</p>
<h2>Figurines and high detail models are a common use case for resin</h2>
<p>It is near impossible to print miniatures for wargaming and similar in FDM, but resin printers are a very common type for this use case. Similarly, Cosplay props with a very high detail grade can benefit from being printed in resin, either directly or as an intermediate step to create a mold.</p>
<p>With the proper equipment, one could make flexible molds to cast wax positives which then can be used with the lost-wax-technique to create many high detailed metal copies of the printed first positive.</p>
<h2>Containers are a possible use case for resin</h2>
<p>Resin prints are more brittle than FDM prints. While limited in size, such containers, just as much as casings for electronics, are a possible usecase. In fact, replacement casings for retro electronics (think SNES controllers or N64 Cartridges during restoration projects) are somewhat common, even though they have not the same sturdiness as the original ABS casings. Here, the high detail grade makes the cut.</p>
<h2>Tooling is a poor use case</h2>
<p>Resin prints are very brittle and have little to no ductile movement. While I have used FDM-printed parts from PLA in a few projects to make adapters between machines and my shop vacuum as well as to create an aluminium bending tool, resin printed parts with their near to no flexibility are generally a poor use case to create hardware or tooling from.</p>
|
2022-02-18T03:52:43.093 | |openscad| | <p>I am running into what honestly seems like a bug in OpenSCAD, but I can't believe that something so simple could reveal a bug. I am trying to render the following code:</p>
<pre><code>module tri_prism(base1, base2) {
polyhedron([
base1[0], base1[1], base1[2],
base2[0], base2[1], base2[2]],
[[0,1,2],[3,4,5],
[0,1,4,3],[1,2,5,4],[2,0,3,5]],
convexity=5);
}
union() {
tri_prism(
[[0,0,0],[0,1,0],[1,0,0]],
[[0,0,1],[0,1,1],[1,0,1]]);
tri_prism(
[[2,1,0],[2,0,0],[1,1,0]],
[[2,1,1],[2,0,1],[1,1,1]]);
}
</code></pre>
<p>This should render two (non-overlapping) triangular prisms, like so:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZwAU.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Two triangular prisms side-by-side"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZwAU.png" alt="Two triangular prisms side-by-side" title="Two triangular prisms side-by-side" /></a></p>
<p>However, this image is only the preview. When I hit <kbd>F6</kbd>, it renders this, with only the triangular bases being rendered:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgpBw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Only the triangular bases are rendered"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgpBw.png" alt="Only the triangular bases are rendered" title="Only the triangular bases are rendered" /></a></p>
<p>And the console shows this warning, which I don't know the meaning of because I am a beginner:</p>
<pre><code>UI-WARNING: Object may not be a valid 2-manifold and may need repair!
</code></pre>
<p>Each of the prisms individually renders just fine, but the two of them together don't. Also, it is not merely a problem of appearance since exporting it as STL and opening it in Cura, I see the same useless nonsense.</p>
<p>Is this a bug or am I doing something wrong? And if it is a bug, how do I work around it?</p>
| 18948 | OpenSCAD can't render union of two polyhedrons, but can preview just fine | <p>This is a case of "<a href="https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Primitive_Solids#Mis-ordered_faces" rel="noreferrer">Mis-ordered faces</a>".</p>
<p>That means the order in which the vertices making up one or more faces aren't in the correct order.
The vertices of a face should be listed in clockwise order from the perspective of a camera looking at the face form the exterior of the polyhedron.</p>
<p>In this case, the problem can be solved by reordering the <code>[0,1,2]</code> face of the <code>tri_prism</code> polyhedron as, for example, <code>[0,2,1]</code>.</p>
<p>The misordered face(s) can be found by enabling the <strong>Thrown Together</strong> option from the <strong>View</strong> menu and <strong>Preview</strong>ing. The faces in question will be shown in magenta.</p>
<p>Why, then, if the faces are mis-ordered, did the prisms render just fine individually? My guess is that faces have to be properly ordered to be sure to get a correct Render. The behavior of Render is simply indeterminate for polyhedra with misordered faces. It can work in some situations, but it's not guaranteed.</p>
<p>Edit: I forgot to add that, in my opinion, this shouldn't be an issue, and that if it's such a big problem for the Rendering subroutine, it should intelligently reorder the mis-ordered faces in a prelude. It would avoid beginners such needless troubles.</p>
|
2022-02-18T18:59:54.770 | |print-quality|creality-cr-10|direct-drive| | <p>I have a Creality cr-10 printer. Everything is stock except for the direct drive extrusion system (I bought a conversion kit from Micro Swiss).</p>
<p>I have been working to dial in my settings, and I think they are almost there, with a few exceptions. There seems to be roughness/blobs at the layer transitions on my prints. This was present before my conversion to the direct drive system as well. I calibrated the steps/mm after the change as well. What settings should I focus on to try to get rid of this? Or is it some sort of mechanical issue? I've included some example pictures:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RBTkz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RBTkz.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf3kd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf3kd.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RfpeQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RfpeQ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 18954 | Issues with layer changes/z-seam | <p>From your pictures, the blobs are (at least mostly) not at layer changes but at <em>speed changes</em> where the toolhead has to drastically slow down and speed back up to go around a sharp corner (including as a special case a corner in the Z direction, i.e. a layer change). This happens because, when the toolhead slows down, there is still pressure in the nozzle due to forces that cause the plastic to resist being extruded to a degree that scales with the speed of extrusion.</p>
<p>The right solution to this problem is enabling and calibrating <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Linear Advance</a>, which directly models and compensates for the phenomenon. Unfortunately, most printers including yours are still shipping with firmware too old to have this feature, or built without including it. So, your options are:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Update to firmware with linear advance and calibrate it. The factor for PLA on a direct drive is likely to be around 0.04-0.06. This is the best solution but might be unnerving if you're not comfortable with making that kind of change to your printer.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Print at lower speeds, so that there's less difference between the cruise speed and the speed at/near the corners.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Print at higher acceleration/jerk, so that the decel/accel cycle at corners happens much faster giving less time for the residual pressure to push out more material.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Some of the issues in your pictures, however, look similar to "blobs" but apppear to be warping/curling from insufficient cooling or excess bed temperature. These are the ones in the first few mm of the print, below the lettering on the back (the lettering clearly has actual blobs). Using a lower bed temperature or even unheated bed, and/or improving your cooling (replacing the part cooling fan with a larger one, or pointing a desk fan at the printer during printing) should make these issues go away. You can probably also avoid it by printing significantly slower, or possibly by reconfiguring your slicer to print the outer wall first, before inner walls.</p>
|
2022-02-20T22:28:43.913 | |3d-design| | <p>I want to use magnets to hold the lid of a box down tight enough to keep it relatively airtight (along with a rubber seal etc.), but I am not sure what strength of magnet to use, that will still allow it to be opened without causing damage either by having to be pried open or by crushing the print layers. I cannot seem to find any guide to how magnets are used for 3d printing at various strengths and I cannot afford to buy too many types that I am not then going to use.</p>
<p>Any help that you can provide will be greatly appreciated.</p>
| 18960 | How Do I Determine The Appropriate Magnet Strength For A Tight Seal On A Box | <p>You can vary the “strength” of the magnet by making a membrane of 3D printed plastic in between the magnets. The strength of the attraction is something like a logarithmic relationship to distance- small changes in thickness of material in between the magnets have a large effect on how strong they stick to each other. You could dial in your print by buying strong rare earth magnets and experimenting with attenuating the strength with the membrane. Could even use sheets of paper to get the right feel, then measure the thickness of the stack.</p>
<p>If using an fdm printer, it could be helpful to insert the magnets with a pause in the printing, and print over the top, if there isn’t a good way to otherwise capture them.</p>
|
2022-02-22T18:22:08.747 | |print-quality|petg|delta| | <p>Every time I print a large area I get the pattern in the middle.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfS6f.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PfS6f.jpg" alt="pattern on first layer" /></a></p>
<p>Below picture was taken during printing. The material isn't evenly laid flat on the bed and some are being scraped up.</p>
<p>It appears from some centimeters away from the edge and extends perpendicular to the nozzle moving direction.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoFFo.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoFFo.jpg" alt="during print" /></a></p>
<p>The pattern appears at the similar position when I print the same model again.</p>
<p>It's a delta printer. Print PETG on glass bed at 75 °C.</p>
<p><strong>Update</strong>:</p>
<p>After adjusting delta height to add clearance, the first layer is super clean without any wave.</p>
| 18975 | What cause the pattern in a large area? | <p>The wavy lay down on the first layer usually indicates one of two problems:</p>
<ul>
<li>The first layer is badly calibrated (too much distance, laying down in waves or too little, squeezing out in waves).</li>
<li>The plastic doesn't stick to the bed well enough.</li>
</ul>
|
2022-02-27T13:20:40.393 | |g-code|homing|power-supply|klipper| | <p>I'd like to force Klipper to perform power on (using <code>M80</code>) before homing. For this purpose I'm trying to override <code>G28</code>:</p>
<pre><code>[gcode_macro G28]
rename_existing: G28_BASE
gcode:
M80
G28_BASE { rawparams }
</code></pre>
<p>But for some reason this does not work, I'm getting the following error:</p>
<pre><code>G-Code macro rename of different types ('G28' vs 'G28_BASE')
</code></pre>
<p>Isn't <code>G28</code> overridable? Is there any other way to achieve the desired behavior?</p>
| 19025 | Klipper: power on before homing | <p>Besides using a different macro, it is also possible to use <a href="https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#homing_override" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[homing_override]</a> which allows you to redefine the homing sequence.</p>
<p>You can write a simple homing_override like (untested!)</p>
<pre><code>[homing_override]
axes: xyz
gcode:
M80
G28
</code></pre>
<p>and you are done.</p>
<p>Be aware that this very simple override will home all axes every time homing is called: "G28 X0" will home also Y and Z. You can put checks to home only what is requested, see <a href="https://github.com/zellneralex/klipper_config/blob/master/homing.cfg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> but it become more involved.</p>
|
2022-03-03T08:59:38.807 | |ultimaker-cura|3d-models|3d-design| | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXrGX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXrGX.jpg" alt="" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXrMZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXrMZ.png" alt="Errored surfaces." /></a></p>
<p>The left part of the first picture is giving an inverted circle when lying flat, but the right part of the first picture is how it should be. Same STL for both slice orientations. I tried toggling union overlapping volumes with no luck. I tried to invert face normals with Blender with no luck either.</p>
<p>This gives the error: The highlighted areas indicate either missing or extraneous surfaces. Fix your model and open it again into Cura.</p>
<p><a href="https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/face-plate-v3-d24dc577c0e9420cb683f688405c080a" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> is a link to the model, <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/lukwu7tq1clybgy/FacePlate%20V3.stl?dl=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this is another link</a>.</p>
<p>I have tried</p>
<ul>
<li>manually repairing faces with Blender,</li>
<li>repairing the model with Autocad Meshmixer</li>
</ul>
<p>both without success.</p>
| 19044 | Little help on this Cura slicing or model error? | <p>I've discovered via Meshmixer that there are duplicate cylinders for the counterbores. I selected "separate shells" which generated two sets of cylinders in the Objects Browser as well as the main body. Selecting each flawed entry in the browser left behind the main body, which is manifold and passes the Analysis/Inspector test sequence.</p>
<p>You can have the repaired file from my <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/ys6jzpnfsjbbn3v/FacePlate%20V3r.stl?dl=0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dropbox, public folder</a>, or you can perform the process on your own. If you select the former, please let me know when it's retrieved, as I endeavor to keep my space in the free category on Dropbox.</p>
|
2022-03-06T17:44:24.183 | |prusa-i3|adhesion|underextrusion|filament-jam|polycarbonate| | <p>On the last couple of polycarbonate prints with my Prusa, one or more layers have been completely skipped (i.e. no material extruded). The rest of the print is fine save some minor warping. I'm printing in an enclosure that gets up to ~60 °C with the power supply outside the enclosure. I'm also printing out of a dry box with a fairly long bowden tube. I suspect it has something to do with overheating because this doesn't happen when I print without an enclosure.</p>
<p>I cracked the print in half just to take a look in between the layers.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gg8H8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gg8H8.jpg" alt="Side view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eP3C1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eP3C1.jpg" alt="Bottom piece" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fAmPg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fAmPg.jpg" alt="Top piece" /></a></p>
| 19057 | Prusa i3MK3S+ layer skip with polycarbonate (overheating?) | <p>Turns out I was just ruining the PETG parts that held the extruder gears. They didn't really melt but got soft and crept really badly. I replaced them with new parts everything was fine.</p>
|
2022-03-07T22:39:27.283 | |print-material|safety|alumide| | <p>Does 3D printed Alumide outgas or is it inert? I.e. If I printed a box with it and stored paper in that box for 100 years would the paper become damaged by out gassing?</p>
<p>I noticed that <a href="https://data.nasa.gov/Applied-Science/Outgassing-Db/r588-f7pr" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NASA has a list of materials that out gas</a>.</p>
<p>But I'm not sure exactly what polymers are in 3D printed Alumide...</p>
| 19069 | Does 3D printed Alumide out gas after printing? | <p>Alumide is, as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/19072/8884">this question explains</a> made up entirely of Aluminium Grit and Polyamide 12 dust.</p>
<p>The Database contains one entry for Polyamide 12 (by <a href="https://data.nasa.gov/d/r588-f7pr/visualization" rel="nofollow noreferrer">filtering for it here</a>):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlUt4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlUt4.png" alt="Polyamide 12 - ID GSFC4067 - MFR HUL - TML 0.76 - Category 0 - CVCM 0.02 - Space Code 1 - WVR N/A - Material Usage MOLD CPND - Cure N/A" /></a></p>
<p>Some other items of similar material (Nylon 6 & Nylon 12) are also in the database:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRQ2P.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRQ2P.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>As a result of the material being essentially aluminium and PA12, I would take the PA12 values for an estimation until the material was tested properly.</p>
|
2022-03-08T17:28:29.633 | |print-material|alumide| | <p>Does anyone know what polymers are used in 3D printed Alumide? I know it has Al and nylon, but does it have anything else?</p>
<p>NASA has a database of materials that out gas and I'd like to see if Alumide out gasses.</p>
| 19072 | What polymers are used in 3D printed Alumide? | <p>Alumide is a registered trademark. It's source words are <em>Alu</em>munium and Polya<em>mide</em>. The first materials known under this name were sold in 2007.</p>
<p>According to my materials provider, the ratio is but for tiny tollerances exactly 50% Polyamide-12 dust that is enriched with 50% aluminium particles and the material is used without special alterations to the machine in a typical nylon Selective Laser Sintering machine using a modified profile for PA12. Its <a href="https://www.shapeways.com/rrstatic/material_docs/msds-alumide.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSDS</a> only lists those two components, so there is nothing but those in it usually.</p>
<p>As a result, the polymer binder is only <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon_12" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Polyamide 12</a></p>
|
2022-03-09T21:41:35.673 | |bed-leveling| | <p>In every 3D print that I have seen, the bed should be leveled (manually or with some sensor-based system) on multiple points, pretty annoying because often when you reach the perfect distance on a point another point should be adjusted again repeating the procedure multiple time to have perfect leveling on all points.</p>
<p>I'm wondering why height isn't just fixed with the optimal leveling.</p>
| 19078 | Why should the bed be leveled and isn't just fixed optimally? | <p>In addition to the answers above, you can have perfect levelling for one filament that doesn't work with another.</p>
<p>So for instance my normal PLA works perfectly at one bed level, yet if I change to the generic silk I have it won't adhere unless I change the bed height fractionally. The differences are tiny but are make or break changes.</p>
<p>Copper PLA filament is slightly different to both in terms of getting a nice first layer.</p>
<p>ABS also requires slightly tighter bed levelling on my printer.</p>
<p>So while I rarely change bed levelling, I do if I'm changing filament. But quite often I don't bother with the whole levelling thing, I just adjust the knobs while the skirt is printing.</p>
<p>This is from my experience, your mileage may differ.</p>
|
2022-03-10T07:16:30.433 | |bed-leveling|tramming| | <p>There are numerous topics found on first layers that do not adhere properly causing prints to fail or cause print quality defects.</p>
<p>The advice is often to properly level or tram the build surface. How does one tram the build surface?</p>
| 19081 | How do you level (or tram) your build surface correctly? | <p>For fine tuning I get good results by loading a model of any object with a rectangular footprint and scaling it to a size close to the printer's limits.</p>
<p>With the skirt set to around 10 passes, start the print job, let the skirt print then kill the job.</p>
<p>Peel the skirt from the bed and measure its thickness near the leveling screw locations with digital calipers or a micrometer and adjust the leveling screws as indicated.</p>
|
2022-03-16T10:44:16.077 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|z-axis|bltouch| | <p>I have a problem with my E 3nder3 (3DTouch, Skr mini e3 v1.2, Dragon hotend with afterburner mount, other parts are original), where after using ABL, at the start of the print the Z-axis just seems to ignore where the 0 point should be and keeps trying to go down for a good second, then it just starts the print as if nothing happened.</p>
<p>The things I've tried and the observations I've made:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>After reflashing Marlin, I've tried printing without creating a mesh, and it worked as normal (using the BLTouch as a Z stop, but not making a mesh). This should eliminate the Z stop being a problem</p>
<ul>
<li>After creating the mesh even once, everything goes wrong like explained above</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><p>I've tried leveling the bed with paper, and when using the bed visualizer in OctoPi, everything seemed pretty close to normal, so the sensor itself seems to work.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Now the weird thing was, that the day this started happening, moving the Z-axis by hand seemed to be way harder than usual, as if the rod is not lubricated, so I lubricated it with my tool grease. That didn't solve the problem. It still feels as if some of the rubber bearings are stuck on the gantry. After checking them 1 by 1, none of them seemed particularly loose or tight compared to the others.</p>
</li>
</ul>
| 19103 | Ender 3 with BLTouch ignores Z0 | <p>Successfully solved the problem. Removed the Z rod from its socket, and greased up the threaded slot it goes into on the x gantry, that seemed to solve the problem.</p>
|
2022-03-16T18:13:48.567 | |3d-models|stl| | <p>I have a (preferably in matlab) 3D array of Booleans describing a voxel structure. I want to turn this into an .stl file but I don't want the final result to have the jagged cubes.</p>
<p>I have tried putting the voxel array into a marching cube algorithm but the resulting STL is not a solid, some parts are infinitely thin sheets. I want every voxel to be represented by something solid.</p>
<p>Is there a way to achieve this?</p>
| 19107 | Obtaining a smooth solid .stl from voxel data | <p>Voxels are pretty much an interpolation of data points and you can only <em>smooth</em> them out by reducing the fidelity. Why? Because in acquiring the voxel, you already lost fidelity. Let me take you through an example.</p>
<h2>The basics</h2>
<p>For our basics we take a circle of Radius <span class="math-container">$R$</span>. It can be fully described the following: <span class="math-container">$$x^2+y^2=R$$</span> All solutions to this give us points on the circle.</p>
<p>Its representation as a single voxel with resolution length <span class="math-container">$r$</span> is that of a square. The square with its center on <span class="math-container">$\{0,0\}$</span> we will call the voxel of resolution <span class="math-container">$r$</span> around that coordinate. It is defined as <span class="math-container">$$x =\{0.5r,-0.5r\} \land y=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}$$</span> <span class="math-container">$$y=\{0.5r,-0.5r\}\land x=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}$$</span> Other squares then can be created by simply adding the respective cell's center's coordinates <span class="math-container">$\{a,b\}$</span> for <span class="math-container">$$x' =\{0.5r,-0.5r\}+a \land y'=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}+b$$</span> <span class="math-container">$$y'=\{0.5r,-0.5r\}+b\land x'=\{-0.5r \to 0.5r\}+a$$</span></p>
<p>Looks complicated? True, but you see: the first formula is a circle with radius <span class="math-container">$R$</span> containing an area of <span class="math-container">$A=\pi*R^2$</span>. The latter two blocks define the square of length <span class="math-container">$r$</span> and area <span class="math-container">$A=r^2$</span>. By clever positioning, the grid with <span class="math-container">$R=r$</span> has its <span class="math-container">$\{0,0\}$</span> Voxel wholly contained in that circle. Or in a picture, it looks like this, using <span class="math-container">$r=R=50$</span> (and thus a diameter of 100).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1GWB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/J1GWB.png" alt="50 unit radius circle, overlay of a 50 unit square grid" /></a></p>
<p>As you see, there is an area between the circle and the square - this is fidelity that is lost when converting to voxels. In a typical voxel transformation, there is only one choice: at which point of filling does a voxel get filled to 100% and at which it gets filled to 0%. Let's assume the circle there is actually a cylinder of 50 units height. Depending on where we set the cutoff, we now get one of three solutions. We could end with one voxel, using 50% as the cutoff point. We could end with a plus shape using 45% as the cutoff point or a square using any filling above 0% as a cutoff, as shown in the following picture.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDiid.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDiid.png" alt="3 different voxel representations of the same cylinder of 50 unit radius using 50 unit wide cells" /></a></p>
<p>It gets even more complicated if you don't have the circle and the grid's center overlap like n the example above: there is a "2x2x1" voxel solution that reflects a <em>differently aligned</em> circle with the same cutoff point as the "1x1x1" solution! That circle is (in the next graphic) centered around <span class="math-container">$\{3.5 r,0.5 r\}$</span> and thus shifted half a unit up and right so its center overlaps with a corner of the voxels.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKfwY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKfwY.png" alt="a shifted circle in the same grid" /></a></p>
<h2>Lost fidelity can't be regained</h2>
<p>You see, you have lost a lot of fidelity in voxelizing. All circles have become squares. All squares <strong>also</strong> are squares. Likewise, all curves in between have become squares.</p>
<h2>The problem</h2>
<p>So, it is nigh impossible for a computer to identify, what once was a circle square or square before all was made squares. Think... Colors: I take a picture of a smiley. I split it in half and then desaturate the upper half of the right side to black and white and totally saturate the lower. Those are two different ways to totally loose the color information. In the upper case you retain <em>one</em> information more, because the algorithm of making all colors but black white retains the black information, while the lower parts algorithm only retains the outer shape.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaApD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaApD.png" alt="A Smiley, left side yellow and with a face, right side upper half desaturated to black and white, lower half oversaturated to only black." /></a></p>
<p>If you only had the black and white smiley, you have lost the information about its color in total. If you only have the black outline, you have lost also the information of the face.</p>
<p>Voxelizaion does loose about that much information, depending on the settings.</p>
<h2>Reversing Voxelisation is interpreting the voxel structure</h2>
<p>It's not possible for a computer algorithm to simply invert the process. However, there <strong>are</strong> ways to interpret a voxelized object and try to re-create one of the possible objects that have led to this item, assuming that an "any fill is a voxel" algorithm has been used.</p>
<p>For such, you'd import the model into a software such as Blender, solidify it so that it is one mesh without internal faces, and then running a smoothing operation. You don't get <em>the</em> object that generated that voxel structure, but you get <strong>an</strong> Object that would generate that voxel structure.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAM2I.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAM2I.png" alt="Example of a solidified voxel-object undergoing a smoothing operation to generate one possible parent." /></a></p>
<p>How good the interpretation of the voxels is, depends on the resolution chosen in the start. If <span class="math-container">$r$</span> is small enough, then the resulting interpretation, together with some artistic definition of which corners are sharp and quite some manual post-processing (which requires the human eye) can lead to a somewhat good approximation of the actual object you believe lead to the voxel structure.</p>
|
2022-03-21T10:11:29.947 | |3d-design| | <p>I'm working on a gadget a bit like a jewelry box. I want the lid on a hinge. Are 3d printed hinges robust enough for daily use long term? Perhaps with a metal pin?</p>
<p>I want to incorporate the hinge into the design but my thinking is that it would be a waste of time if the hinge will break as I'd need to reprint the whole gadget.</p>
| 19129 | Tips on incorporating a robust hinge | <p>Maker's Muse has <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JhjhgjchfM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a video</a> on how to design hinged objects for printing. It's quite old and might be outdated with regard to materials, slicer functionality, etc. but I think it provides a good background on the topic and a source of ideas. One of the good tips is to look at the abundance of existing hinged designs on Thingiverse and other model sharing sites - that way you can study how they work and test print some before you spend time designing your own thing that might not work.</p>
|
2022-03-22T19:16:24.250 | |infill| | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqJwF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vqJwF.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I want to understand what the infill line distance of 0.4mm signifies. I am printing at 100% infill.</p>
| 19143 | Infill line distance at 100% infill density | <p>Presumably your nozzle width (and thereby your default line width) is 0.4 mm. The infill line distance of 0.4 mm means that the centers of lines are spaced 0.4 mm apart from each other, so that they exactly touch their neighbors at their width (0.2 mm from the center in either direction).</p>
|
2022-03-25T02:06:58.490 | |g-code|mechanics|axis|labists-et4| | <p>While this is not directly 3D <strong>printing</strong> related, I intend to use my 3D printer (Labist's ET40) to shake air bubbles off of a resin casting.</p>
<p>I printed parts, made a mould of them in silicon, then cast a copy with resin. All works, great looks and all! Except... bubbles. Especially at ceiling parts that are away from the gas hole.</p>
<p>I tried a few different techniques to get rid of bubbles (heating, cooling, release agent, handshaking, high drop pouring, a mix of the above, different hole positions in the mould), and some I can't due to price restriction (different resin, vacuum removal degassing), but I was explained by an expert I could just have a machine do some low amplitude, high frequency shakin' for me. Again they proposed a specific machinery or DIY project, but I believe I already have the tool for it in the shape of a 3D printer's axes.</p>
<p>Is there a way to create a G-code that would simply move at relatively high speed back and forth on the Y- and X-axis for, say 15 minutes? I'm sure there would need to be some variation to ensure the temporarily repurposed machine doesn't self-destruct in one way or another.</p>
| 19153 | G-code to get the 3D printer to shake resin bubbles off from a casting | <p>What you suggest is pretty straightforward with g-code. One would expect to have the item secured properly to the print bed. The printer you've indicated has movement only in the Y direction, which means your g-code should reflect that movement only. X-direction movement means the head will travel left and right and have nearly zero effect on the item. This also applies to Z-movement of the carriage.</p>
<p>Marlin (a common firmware) <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M808.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">web page</a> lists a specific g-code for repeat:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The Repeat Marker command is used to define regions of a G-code file
that will be repeated during SD printing. A marker is first set with
M808 L[count], and later in the file a plain M808 command is used
count down and loop. (By default up to 10 start markers can be
nested.)</p>
<p>In slicer software put M808 L to the “Start G-code” and M808 to the
“End G-code.” But this command is not the only requirement. Before
starting each whole object it’s important to actually clear the print
area of obstacles and to reset the coordinate system with G92 or G28,
so this command is best used with belt printers or other systems with
automatic print removal.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>From a <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">different page</a> on the same site:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The G0 and G1 commands add a linear move to the queue to be performed
after all previous moves are completed. These commands yield control
back to the command parser as soon as the move is queued, but they may
delay the command parser while awaiting a slot in the queue.</p>
<p>A linear move traces a straight line from one point to another,
ensuring that the specified axes will arrive simultaneously at the
given coordinates (by linear interpolation). The speed may change over
time following an acceleration curve, according to the acceleration
and jerk settings of the given axes.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>More details specific to this command are also on the linked page. A simple example of a movement g-code:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>The most basic move sets a feedrate and moves the tool to the given
position.</p>
<p>G0 X12 ; move to 12mm on the X axis G0 F1500 ; set the feedrate to
1500 mm/min G1 X90.6 Y13.8 ; move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm
on the Y axis</p>
<p>There are some caveats related with feedrates. Consider the following:</p>
<p>G1 F1500 ; set the feedrate to 1500 mm/min G92 E0 G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 ;
move while extruding</p>
<p>In the above example the feedrate is set to 1500 mm/min, then the tool
is moved 50mm on the X axis and 25.3mm on the Y axis while extruding
22.4mm of filament between the two points.</p>
<p>G1 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000</p>
<p>However, in the above example, we set a feedrate of 1500 mm/min on
line 1 then do the move described above, accelerating to a feedrate of
3000 mm/min (if possible). The extrusion will accelerate along with
the X and Y movement, so everything stays synchronized.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Consider to limit your acceleration based on the weight of the secured item. You would not be worried about precision, but skipped steps due to weight could bring the bed travel to the physical limit stops, causing stepper grinding.</p>
|
2022-03-26T19:52:42.177 | |creality-ender-3|temperature|thermal-runaway| | <p>I recently started printing with an Ender 3 V2. I got a few good prints out of it, and then I have had nothing but issues.</p>
<p>Basically, I can start a print, and after about 10-15 minutes, the temperature will decline from 200 °C to 195 °C, triggering a thermal runaway alert, (low temp), and then cancel the print.</p>
<p>Here's an example of the hotend temp profile:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nkiW.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nkiW.png" alt="Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph" title="Screenshot of OctoPrint's temperature graph" /></a></p>
<p>I have tried testing the hotend thermistor, running PID autotune (multiple times, with up to 10 cycles), replacing the thermistor, running directly from an SD card (instead of OctoPrint).</p>
<p>Both thermistors worked, the first one read 108k Ω at room temp, and a new one is at 113.5k Ω at room temp.</p>
<p>I'm running firmware v1.0.4 on a stock v4.2.2 board.</p>
<p>One thing that did seem to save a print was that when I noticed the print temp dropping, I paused it for about 30 seconds and then resumed, and then the temp recovered up from 198-200 °C for a bit. But that's obviously not a solution.</p>
<p>I'm lost, don't know what else to test/calibrate, any ideas?</p>
| 19163 | Ender 3 v2 temperature drop | <p>Well, this was a setup error. I am amazed it worked at all, but the reason this was happening was that the power supply was set to 230 V from the factory.</p>
<p>I am in the US, so the household current is 115 V. Once I switched the voltage, the printer has been very reliable, and I am not seeing heat drop-offs anymore!</p>
|
2022-03-30T11:43:51.800 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|layer-shifting|overextrusion| | <p>Prints on an Ender 3 Pro using a standard printing profile results in layer shifting or over extrusion. I can’t figure out what the problem is. I tried reducing the flow as well as print speed but nothing really changes. Any thoughts on the XYZ cube test print below?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq4q8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D printed calibration cube with printing errors"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zq4q8.jpg" alt="3D printed calibration cube with printing errors" title="3D printed calibration cube with printing errors" /></a></p>
| 19172 | Why layer shifting prints on Ender 3 Pro? | <p>This isn't what folks usually refer to as "layer shifts" - those are generally permanent (for the rest of the print) and don't correct unless you get an equal opposite-direction shift, and are caused by things like a stepper motor skipping a step, a belt skipping a tooth, or the print surface shifting on the bed.</p>
<p>Your problem looks more like excess play in the positioning, particularly on the X axis, likely due to a very loose belt. If so, it will manifest differently in different layers due to the geometry and the last direction of motion.</p>
<p>It's also possible that it's Z wobble, where the toolhead experiences a Z-coordinate-dependent displacement in the X and Y directions due to irregularities in the Z motion system. This could be a bent or nicked lead screw or nut, flat spots or other damage to the V roller wheels, or debris on the aluminum V slot extrusions that the V wheels are rolling on.</p>
<p>The fact that the top layer came out very clean and consistent makes me actually suspect it's the latter - some sort of Z wobble.</p>
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2022-03-30T12:01:46.543 | |print-quality| | <p>I love the idea of the XYZ test cube to help diagnose my bad prints. I’m able to find online very common print issues however am looking for a resource that is more extensive. Often I run into a situation where my issue is not covered.</p>
<p>Would be great if there was a resource that had pictures of numerous bad or less than ideal XYZ prints with cause and fix for each. I’m thinking of more than 50 examples.</p>
<p>Does anyone know of such a resource?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aogym.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aogym.jpg" alt="My current unknown bad XYZ print " /></a></p>
| 19173 | Is there an extensive XYZ Cube diagnosis resource? | <p>An XYZ cube is a calibration test for dimensional accuracy testing, it is not meant for extensive trouble shooting. Therefor, there are no specific resources for cube irregularities, the regular resources can be used for trouble shooting.</p>
<p>One of the better resources for troubleshooting print problems is found at <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Simplify3D</a> or one at <a href="https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">All3DP</a>.</p>
<hr />
<p><em>Do note that the dimensions in X and Y and Z are based on mechanical ratio's of the steppers with their pulleys or threaded rods, you can calculate the amount of steps required for the dimensional accuracy. It is only necessary to adjust this if e.g. the pulley is of a different diameter than the specification (as in poor quality dimensional pulley accuracy). In the basis you should not adjust the steps per mm based on small sized calibration cubes.</em></p>
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2022-03-31T21:52:01.607 | |g-code|heated-bed| | <p>So, I've gotten the G-code to work regarding the waiting 10 seconds as I wanted it to. However, does anyone know if there is any G-code that exists that will allow me to manually set the height of the heatbed? I'm trying to find out after each layer if I give it 10 seconds to fully 'cure' or 'cool' to see if the results will be better. But I need to move the bed down away from the extruder.</p>
| 19178 | Setting Heat Bed Height Manually Mid-Print? | <p>The way to do this is something like:</p>
<pre><code>G91 ; Relative coordinates mode
G0 Z5 ; Move +5 on Z axis
G4 S10 ; Dwell for 10 seconds
G0 Z-5 ; Move -5 on Z axis
G90 ; (Return to) absolute coordinates mode
</code></pre>
<p>You can of course insert this manually in the gcode between layers, but most slicers have functionality (built-in or as plugins) to let you do that automatically, or of course you could use a text-processing utility like <code>sed</code>, <code>awk</code>, or <code>perl</code> to do the insertions automatically if you're familiar with something like that and it's more to your liking.</p>
<p>In a since-deleted answer, Trish raised some reasons you might not want to do this, including significantly increasing the time your print takes and possible difficulties getting the next layer to adhere to a fully cooled layer. I'm not convinced the latter is a real problem, but these concerns are worth considering. Some other reasons not to do what you're asking about include:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Even with perfectly dialed-in retraction, a hot nozzle dwelling for 10 seconds will almost certainly start to ooze, giving underextrusion and poor surface quality right after restarting.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Most cooling occurs via the part cooling fan. If you move it away from the part, it won't do much. So you might find even after wasting 10 seconds per layer, your layers still aren't cool.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>If you want to cool the entire layer effectively before the next layer goes down, I would recommend "side fan" setups that produce a thin layer of airflow (ideally laminar) at the current Z height. You can find examples of this in lots of the #speedboatrace speed Benchy entries on YouTube, especially on Vorons and other CoreXY machines since it's the easiest to setup on a printer where the bed moves down (like yours) rather than the nozzle moving up, being that you can just mount the fans and ducts at fixed height.</p>
<p>If you want to experiment with this without actually making fancy fan ducts and mounts, just get a desk fan or box fan and point it at your printer. This works surprisingly well.</p>
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2022-04-04T15:25:08.643 | |3d-models|3d-design|resin|water-resistance| | <p>I am trying to print a shape (e.g. square container) using clear resin. However, I am facing the problem of the design sinking when I put it water. I am right now trying to make it hollow from the inside in some spots to reduce its density, but not sure how far can that take me. It is necessary for me that the print floats!
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHzKH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mHzKH.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Do you guys have any tips? like a different print mater? or a change in shape that will help the design float?</p>
| 19191 | Which 3D printing material is best for floating designs? | <h2>The material doesn't matter*</h2>
<p>Floating designs are exactly that: <strong>designs</strong>. If the design is made to float, and your printer can create a watertight shell (which is a different problem than the material), then you can use any material. Well, almost any, because:</p>
<h2>Only one caveat remains</h2>
<p>The only type of material that isn't suitable is any material that will dissolve in the fluid it will swim in. Like PVA in water.</p>
<p>Otherwise, the material only matters for <em>other</em> properties, but <strong>not</strong> for "it can float".</p>
<h2>How to design a floating item?</h2>
<p>When does a design float? Well, the rule described by Archimedes is often described as "An item floats if when the volume of water it displaces is lighter than the item." In other words: if its density is lower than water.</p>
<p>However, it's not that simple after the first look: What is the volume and weight of the boat? After all, we can make steel, which weighs upwards of 3 tons per cubic meter float while water is only 1 ton a cubic meter. What is the mystery part? It is simple: the underwater ship does not allow ingress.</p>
<h3>Draft depth</h3>
<p>So, we want a solid wall from the lowest part to the line the item will sink into when it reaches equilibrium. That's the draft depth. For ships, there is a formula to quickly calculate the draft depth based on knowing how much water will be displaced:</p>
<ul>
<li>Seal all the holes and gaps in the boat. Now measure the volume the item displaces when it is put onto the water. Call it <span class="math-container">$V$</span>.</li>
<li>Take the surface area of the boat. Call it <span class="math-container">$A$</span>.</li>
<li>The Draft <span class="math-container">$d$</span> is now <span class="math-container">$d=\frac V A$</span></li>
</ul>
<p>In the alternative:</p>
<ul>
<li>Make a <em>volume item</em> by removing the holes into the contained volume and filling those voids to the upper rim. Have your CAD tell you the contained Volume. This is <span class="math-container">$V_w$</span>.</li>
<li>Weigh your printed item. This is <span class="math-container">$M_p$</span>. We turn that into Displaced Volume <span class="math-container">$V_d$</span> by using water density: <span class="math-container">$V_d=M_p*1000\frac {\text {mm}^3}{\text g}$</span></li>
<li>Make a plane cut of our volume item, so that the lower part of the item has the same volume as the displaced volume. That is how much of the boat will be underwater.</li>
</ul>
<p>The second method also works for tilted or very asymmetric shapes (like a bot listing), while the first is roughly over the thumb.</p>
<p>Now, how does that help with the design? Remember, we had sealed the slots earlier. If the slots are in any way below our draft depth, then water ingress happens through that slot - and the slot will have to be moved above the draft depth.</p>
<h3>Dasign adjustments</h3>
<p>There are several adjustments to get the item to have a lower draft, but all of them boil down to reducing the density.</p>
<p>In the case of your design, the hanging floor of the basin can have a lot of it cut away and turned into a <em>grid</em> of sorts, which would reduce the impact this part of the print has to the total density.</p>
<p>You could also move the slots up enough so that it will be above the waterline, even if filled to an expected degree.</p>
<p>If you <em>really</em> need to include voids, you will need to alter your printing code in between layers, because resin printers don't typically raise the print fuly out of the resin vat and have <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18792/fluid-resin-gets-trapped-inside-my-prints/18793#18793">such hollows filled with resin as a result</a>. And please <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints/13991#13991">try to avoid Cupping</a></p>
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2022-04-06T01:36:46.673 | |pla|glue| | <p>Using cyanoacrylate to glue PLA parts sometimes leaves a white residue or haze near the glue locations. Is there an easy way to remove it?</p>
<p>I've tried water and alcohol swabs but after drying the haze remains.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cw1pu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo showing white residue"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cw1pu.jpg" alt="Photo showing white residue" title="Photo showing white residue" /></a></p>
| 19198 | How can cyanoacrylate haze be removed from PLA? | <p>Acetone or alcohol hasn't worked at all for me, if anything it made it worse by stripping the PLA of the sheen its supposed to have. I have tried various types of Acetone as well, all with similar results.</p>
<p>I know this will sound crazy, but I have been doing this for about 6 months. I use Sesame Oil, applied generously with a Q-tip, and then I "rub it in/dry it off" with a paper towel. This has worked on various sheens of PLA and PLA+ and completely removes any evidence of super glue. I haven't seen the oil dry out yet either. At first I thought the oil would wear off or dry out, but it has not yet and its been 6 months since I've been doing this.</p>
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2022-04-08T11:30:13.170 | |3d-models|slicing| | <p>I am new at this and maybe my model is not the best, I adapted it for another one actually. Can you tell me why I can't get the holes printed? I already checked the faces and they are all in the correct orientation (I think)</p>
<p>What happens is that I start printing with the holes facing down and they are not printed at all. I never let it keep going for long but it seems to be completely filled inside.</p>
<p>You can check the file <a href="https://ufile.io/9favbj6e" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSvn0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSvn0.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1PSD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1PSD.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 19208 | Not printing the holes | <h1>The problem is internal geomoetry</h1>
<p>The body you modeled consists of a non-manifold shell: There exists a fully enclosed shell on the inside of the item that tries to define an "outside" of the body. In the following picture, I have hidden part of the geometry to better show the problematic internal surfaces in orange:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWHWH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWHWH.jpg" alt="internal Geometry" /></a></p>
<p>Automatic processes such as Meshmixer or Windows 10 3D builder interpret such an internal, one-sided open cylinder as "This probably is missing a surface on both ends". This solution leads to two intersecting and manifold shells - <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6230/8884">a cylinder overlapping the drilled holes and the body with the drilled holes</a> - which then promptly get treated with a boolean union... and voila! No more holes. Or even no more outer shell as the easiest solution is to just stitch that lower surface and discard the rest. This is what happens when Meshmixer does just that: you are left with the cone half and some inverted artifact areas.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AshxK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AshxK.png" alt="Meshmixer automatic repair removes half the model leaving a few inverted artifacts" /></a></p>
<p>So the best solution is to ensure the parts don't contain such volumes encased by a non-manifold surface in the first place. Due to the nature of the part, in this case, it is rather simple: Simply removing the circle of vertices that spans up both the plane, as well as the cylinder, marked orange results in all internal surfaces getting removed. Note that due to the orange parts sharing (at least partially) vertices with the wanted outside, this has to be done manually. Would both surfaces share no vertex, a simple "separate shells" operation could result in a very quick way to remove offending structures.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tEKZJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tEKZJ.png" alt="Without internal geometry" /></a></p>
<p>Without the internal geometry, the model gets interpreted correctly - the mere presence of such superfluous internal geometry makes the slicer believe that some surfaces are inverted or missing, and thus need to be inverted or stitched - and the solution to the slicing is... utter mess.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vbix6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vbix6.png" alt="Cura rendition of the defect and cured model" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgC0I.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgC0I.png" alt="Slicing solutions, before and after removal of internal geometry" /></a></p>
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2022-04-08T18:26:00.620 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>About a day ago my Ender 3 v2 just shut off while printing. It didn’t really bother me since this has happened many times before and switching the power supply off and then turning it on would fix the issue. This time though the printer is no longer turning on. I opened up the power supply and the indicator light is turning on, but when I check the outputs with a voltage meter it says 0. What could be the problem here?</p>
| 19210 | My Ender 3 v2 has randomly turned off and no longer turns on. Any suggestions on how to fix this? | <p>I'm not familiar with that particular power supply, but usually they have a fuse. In your case it's more likely to be a capacitator causing the problem though as fuses are not intermittent problems and they're usually situated before any board lights for obvious reasons. They normally either work or fail.</p>
<p>I'm assuming you checked for loose wires and connections.</p>
<p>This is a job for an electrician, capacitators cannot easily be tested without proper equipment and need some good soldering skills to replace properly. If they're liquid filled then you can sometimes see doming on the top of the capacitator where it looks a bit deformed. Or even a leak. If they're solid state then there is no easy way to see if they're failing.</p>
|