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2021-02-04T06:56:09.140 | |pla|post-processing|petg|material| | <p>Apply / find / create a stainless steel coating to apply to a PETG or PLA part to make it react to a magnet.</p>
<p>My goal is to make a small tubular and conical shapes that can be painted with a stainless steel coating and will react with a magnet.</p>
<p>I know I can buy iron filled PLA but these rust which I want to avoid. <strong>I'm trying to get the magnetic properties of stainless steel (no rusting / reacts to magnets)</strong></p>
<p>I have found videos on how to coat with copper / silver / carbon but I'm looking for stainless steel no rust / magnetic properties.
<div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Nx-GwKOH5qc?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<hr />
<p><em>I'm looking for a "low-cost" solution just for testing.</em></p>
| 15550 | Apply / find / create a stainless steel coating to apply to a PETG or PLA part to make it react to a magnet | <p>No rust but has magnetic properties? You could try varnishing the iron filled PLA.</p>
|
2021-02-05T06:17:55.813 | |desktop-printer|part-identification| | <p>Could anyone help me to find out what is the brand name of this 3D printer?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtKMP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtKMP.jpg" alt="3D printer" /></a></p>
<p>I found this printer while playing Spider-Man on PS4 in the Lab</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/py2UP.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></p>
| 15561 | What is the brand of this 3D printer? | <p>The printer on picture looks like LulzBot TAZ.</p>
<p>It could be some prototype or a self-made built or just inspired by it (as it is a digital rendition), because there is no sign of any branding on it. There are <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2056402" rel="nofollow noreferrer">similar builds on Thingiverse</a>.</p>
|
2021-02-05T19:35:38.683 | |marlin|extruder|skr-v1.4| | <p>I hope someone can poke me in the right direction, I´ve been failing to find a way around this problem and trying for about a week.</p>
<p>My setup is pretty custom, I am using a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2208 driver and a BTT TFT V3 display. At the beginning of this problem I´ve added a second Z-Axis to my printer and made the mistake to declare both axes in Marlin (as I am only using one driver, I should not have to alter Marlin for this, but I found that out too late). At this point, I updated Marlin to take my new steps/mm for the Z-axis, but no matter how often I did, the firmware didn´t seem to change anything. Later (out of pure hopelessness) I used the <code>M502</code> Command, followed by <code>M500</code> to save and somehow this made my axis work and set the correct steps/mm out of my firmware (at this point, I already found the mistake in Marlin mentioned above).</p>
<p>Relieved I started my first print... But the extruder motor (bowden setup) stopped turning and I don't know why. Now, I´ve been stuck with this strange behavior for a week:</p>
<p>When I freshly boot the printer, the extruder motor spins (correct length and correct direction). I can do this via M-Command, TFT35 and Pronterface (PC-USB direct to the mainboard). Whenever I start a print, the extruder just stops (motor engaged, but not trying to turn, no skipping steps). No matter how long I wait, even in a 2-hour print, the motor doesn´t spin a bit. After the print and if I cancel the print the motor won´t turn again (tried all the ways mentioned before). BUT when I kill the power to the printer and let it reboot I can use the extruder in all the mentioned ways without any problems.</p>
<p>I think this is a software problem, but I can´t find it. Looked through Marlin a few times, adjusted my Start G-code, looked at the existing G-code, I can not find the mistake. I´ll attach a few lines of G-code and my Start G-code (I use Cura 4.8). If someone knows a line in Marlin, I´ll look that up for you - it seems impossible to post the whole firmware somewhere.
Start G-code:</p>
<pre><code>G21 ;metric values
G91 ;relative positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
M900 K0.22 ; set K-primus-factor
M117 K0.22 ; display K Value on display
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G1 Z1 F500 ;move up slightly
G1 Y60.0 Z0 E9.0 F500.0;intro line
G1 Y100.0 E21.5 F500.0 ;continue line
G-Code:
G1 F600 Z0.3
G1 F1500 E0
G1 F1200 X99.215 Y92.699 E0.06147
G1 X99.708 Y92.391 E0.09734
G1 X100.377 Y92.083 E0.14279
G1 X100.743 Y91.958 E0.16666
G1 X101.484 Y91.803 E0.21337
G1 X102.187 Y91.748 E0.25689
G1 X103.552 Y91.72 E0.34114
G1 X118.764 Y91.72 E1.27986
</code></pre>
<p>If there are any ideas, please tell me. I am completely lost at this point!</p>
<p>Edit: a few mistakes are gone now, formatting and PS.: "blockage of the extruder-motor" after starting a print happens no matter how I start a print (SD TFT/Pronterface/SD Mainboard)</p>
| 15564 | Extruder motor does spin - but not while printing | <h1>Extruder stops to spin</h1>
<p>The problem you described seem to be reported elsewhere for TMC in relation to stealthChop mode (unsure, see below) and linear advance. For details look at this comment in <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/17944#issuecomment-626392036" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Extruder stops during print (Bugfix-2.0.x) #17944</a>. An advice from there is to supplement the G-code with (my interpretation):</p>
<pre><code>M569 S0 E ; disable stealthChop for extruder (use spreadCycle)
M900 K0 ; disable linear advance
</code></pre>
<p>There is also another discussion <a href="https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/1774" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TMC2208 extruder driver shuts itself off in spreadcycle mode with pressure advance enabled #1774</a> for Klipper. Above summary is just a result of my quick look through, I suggest to re-read these articles with more insight.</p>
<p>Also I propose to do following to doublecheck:</p>
<ul>
<li>execute <code>M503</code> (without parameters) before and after print, compare reports (especially: <code>M92</code>, <code>M203</code>, <code>M204</code>)</li>
<li>verify <code>EXTRUDE_MINTEMP</code> parameter in <em>Configuration.h</em> (I am not sure how does it behave during the print)</li>
<li>I also saw the remedy: <em>"Then I changed the extruder stepper motor wires and the problem is now fixed"</em>, but it is the edge case.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Extrusion mode</h1>
<p>I personally prefer to use extrusion in relative mode, because it allows to manipulate G-code or restart the print from any line. You would need to put <code>M83</code> in starting G-code instead of current <code>M82</code>, together with enabling Cura setting (Special Modes > Relative Extrusion). I am not sure what happens currently with your filament between in your file's:</p>
<pre><code> M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G1 Y60.0 Z0 E9.0 F500.0;intro line
G1 Y100.0 E21.5 F500.0 ;continue line
...
G1 F1500 E0
</code></pre>
<p>For me it looks like it's retreating 21 mm of filament just at the start of print? So it cannot really print for several consecutive G-code lines, does it?</p>
<h1>Marlin settings vs EEPROM</h1>
<p>When updating settings in Marlin like steps/mm you should be aware, that values stored in EEPROM take precedence. Reinstalling firmware will not clear the EEPROM settings. If you want to make persistent change, save to EEPROM and alter the firmware config, to have these values secured for future as "defaults".</p>
|
2021-02-06T17:23:59.977 | |marlin|z-axis|stepper-driver|melzi| | <p>I'm setting up a replacement Melzi 2.0 board from TRONXY for my i3 clone (a Monoprice Maker Select v2 for those curious), which according to the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi#Melzi_Version_2.0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap wiki</a> has A4982 drivers for all the steppers. I'm attempting to configure Marlin 2.0.x for this printer and this is the last big problem I'm encountering.</p>
<p>The problem: The Z-axis (or any motors connected to the Z-axis driver) won't budge no matter what I try. All my other steppers work fine.</p>
<p>What I've tried: I've done everything I can to prompt the Z-axis to move, from Gcode commands to homing via the LCD and Pronterface. I've connected my X-axis motor to the Z-axis driver and it won't move either. Sometimes, when I send a command for them to move, they'll make a small noise - like they're getting power - but won't move. I probed the motor connectors at the board and received nothing but a few stray millivolts here and there, very different from the several volts on my Y-axis motor when I did the same thing. Bear in mind, that was just one test moving them from the LCD, and this time they did not make any noise or attempt to move. I have switched pin definitions in the firmware for X/Z ENABLE/STEP/DIR and the Z driver once again appeared to be the culprit, keeping the Z-axis planted even if it was being controlled as if it were the X-axis.</p>
<p>What I think the problem could be: To me, this seems like a software problem. I'm configuring Marlin for my first time and I think I messed something up somewhere. Could it be a problem with the trim pots, motor currents, motor enabling, or something else? Outside of that, maybe the driver is just dead?</p>
<p>My Marlin 2.0.x config.h for reference:</p>
<pre><code>// These are all excerpts from various parts of Configuration.h
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 500 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 4, 25 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 2800 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 2800 // E acceleration for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 2800 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves
//#define CLASSIC_JERK //left at default
// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 150
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z //disabled until the driver works correctly
#endif
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
//#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
//#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT X_CENTER // X point for Z homing
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT Y_CENTER // Y point for Z homing
#endif
// Homing speeds (mm/min)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*50) //changed from 3000 to 2500
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (4*60)
// Validate that endstops are triggered on homing moves
#define VALIDATE_HOMING_ENDSTOPS
// Sorry if that was a bit much, I tried to include all the settings that could
// potentially have an effect on the Z motion.
</code></pre>
<p>I genuinely have no idea where to even look to solve this problem, so any guidance or advice would be hugely appreciated!! Thanks!</p>
<p>My conclusion is that the driver chip itself is dead and replacing it ought to fix the problem. If this works, I will post an answer to this question.</p>
| 15571 | Z-Axis on i3 clone won't move at all, Melzi A4982 driver problem | <p>I've replaced the Z-axis stepper driver with an off-board Pololu-style A4988 driver by soldering leads to pins 2 and 3 on the Melzi board, then connecting those to the driver on a separate board. The Z-axis now moves correctly. When I encountered issues with the step pin (pin 3), I connected it to pin 12 (bed heater) instead, leaving the bed to be heated manually. This has worked so far and the only problems I've encountered were minor issues with electrical noise, which I was able to fix with a shielded cable.</p>
|
2021-02-07T08:11:23.970 | |calibration|pid| | <p>Since I have lots of PETG, I ran tuning to 230 °C (average temp for my filaments).
What is it good for, in terms of temperature ranges?</p>
<p>For the same printer configuration, and just different filaments, will I need to run it again and again?
Let's assume that I'll be printing between 200 °C and 240 °C.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOVjm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOVjm.png" alt="marlin pid via octoprint" /></a></p>
| 15574 | PID tuning and different filament temperatures | <p>PID tuning can be performed multiple times and the results saved for future use, since the question is about "what are the usable ranges for PID tuning", based on my experience</p>
<ol>
<li>a slightly suboptimal tuning will not make the temperature oscillate more than 2-3 degrees, which is more than enough for most traditional filaments</li>
<li>if you have a 30-40 °C temperature range you can likely keep a tuning in the middle and be done with it</li>
<li>an accurate tuning is needed if you run the hot end at its maximum rated temperature: mine was rated 250 °C and without a good PID tuning the temperature was overshooting by 2-3 degrees, which was enough to trigger a over-temperature safety shutdown. Using the printer at 245 °C would have resulted in no issues even with sub-optimal PID tuning.</li>
</ol>
<p>Of course, people with high temperature hot ends (up to 270-300 °C or more) will need a tuning for the usual range (200-240 °C) and one for the higher temperature range to obtain better prints.</p>
|
2021-02-07T17:30:09.737 | |marlin|extruder|g-code| | <p>I have upgraded my ER-20 with a Bondtech dual gear feeder.
It is not or hardly possible to load/unload filament manually with this feeder, so some .gcode is needed to do it.
I wanted to implement something similar to the atomic cleaning method for unloading: <a href="https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187066-Atomic-Cleaning-Method" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187066-Atomic-Cleaning-Method</a></p>
<p>Here is my current <code>.gcode</code>:</p>
<pre><code>G21 ; Metric values
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder absolute mode
G28 ; Auto home
M420 S1
G1 X100 Y100 Z100 F1000
; M92 E415 ; 415 steps/mm
M302 S105 ; Allow extrusion above 105C
M109 S218 ; Heat hotend to 218C
M400
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder positioning
M104 S160 ; Start the cool down
M117 Extrude prime blob
G1 E10 F100 ; Extrude a short before unload to avoid blob forming
M109 S160 ; Wait for 160C
M104 S110
G92 E0
G1 E0.2 F100 ; Pressurize the hotend
M117 Pressurize hotend
M109 S110 ; Heat hotend to 110C
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder positioning
M117 Pull out slow
G1 E-3 F200 ; Pull back a bit, slow
M117 Pull out fast
G1 E-430 F2000 ; Pull back 43cm with 2000mm/min
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder positioning
M400 ; Wait for command finish
M117 Remove the filament now
; M400 ; Wait for command finish
M302 S170 ; Allow extrusion above 170C
M104 S0
</code></pre>
<p>It doesn't work:</p>
<ul>
<li>the auto bed leveling is always done, I don't know how to turn it off</li>
<li>when I see that the "Extrude a short before unload to avoid blob forming" event is happening, I also see the "Pull out fast" message on the display and the "print" process ends</li>
</ul>
<p>Could anyone take a look at this code please? Or <strong>is there any <code>.gcode</code> validator for Marlin somewhere</strong>?</p>
<p><strong>What I intend to do with this code:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>heat up the hotend to 218 °C</li>
<li>extrude some material while a cool down to 160 °C is already started</li>
<li>when temp 160 °C is reached, start a cool-down process to 110 °C and push a little material to the feeder (pressurize)</li>
<li>when 110 °C is reached pull out some material from the hotend slow (maybe the feeder won't be enough strong to do it, but I have never reached this point to check)</li>
<li>then pull out the filament from the Bowden and feeder fast</li>
</ul>
| 15576 | Marlin firmware: unload filament with G-code | <p>There are three things to fix and one suggestion:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Change follwing lines of <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M109</code></a>, using parameter <code>R</code> instead of <code>S</code>, because the latter is not waiting to cool down:</p>
<pre><code>M109 R160 ; Wait for 160C
...
M109 R110 ; Heat hotend to 110C
</code></pre>
</li>
<li><p>The behavior of <code>M420</code> will depend on type of bed leveling, saved mesh, etc. It is off topic to troubleshoot this. The printer operates 10 cm above the surface for this operation. <code>G28</code> disables bed leveling. Why do you need to re-enable it? Just remove this line:</p>
<pre><code>; M420 S1 - remove (or comment out)
</code></pre>
</li>
<li><p>Redefine maximum extrusion length in <em>Configuration.h</em> to allow for scripted long pull (<code>G1 E-430</code>), for example:</p>
<pre><code>#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH 450
</code></pre>
</li>
<li><p><em>Suggestion:</em> Use relative mode for extrusion (<code>M83</code>) instead of absolute positioning (<code>M82</code>). It will simplify your code a lot. You just want to express the distance in <code>E</code> parameter. Then you will not have to reset position with <code>G92 E0</code> every now and then (do it just once on the start). (<em>I use this <a href="/a/15572/26170">Extrusion mode</a> also for slicing becuase it makes easier to re-start a print in case of failure</em>).</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
2021-02-07T20:16:29.460 | |print-quality|electronics| | <p>I manage four 3D Printers for my college's robotics team. They are used pretty constantly throughout the school year; that is, they are used more as manufacturing printers than hobbyist printers. The environment they are in is less than ideal: The outdoor climate is typically cold and has low humidity, and the room they are in has fine dust particles that are less than 80 microns diameter and have electrostatic properties. The room's temperature also fluctuates week to week. As such, static electricity is fairly common in that room.</p>
<p>What effects does static electricity have on our 3D printers? I have had numerous problems recently with a motherboard with resistors that failed and another printer with an unknown issue that we suspect also has to do with the motherboard. Could the static electricity be causing these or other issues, or affecting the quality of our printed parts?</p>
<p>We use ZylTech filament, and print using a Creality Ender 3 Pro, CR-10S Pro, Ender 5 Plus, and a FlashForge Creator Pro. The dust particles mimic "regolith", or lunar soil, that comes from one of our team's test facilities.</p>
| 15577 | Effects of static on 3D printers & print quality | <p>Regolith is one of the <em>worst</em> stuff known to man that could accumulate on electronics and moving parts. NASA replicated Regolith and has a <a href="https://www.nasa.gov/sites/default/files/atoms/files/nasa_tp_2006_214605.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">manual</a>. Researchers studied <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12217-019-9674-5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Regolith as a 3D print material</a> - and found it can be used. We even have the formula to make <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lunarcrete" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Concrete from it by adding water and refined regolith or even dry refined regolith.</a></p>
<p>Also, we understand <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/23872637_Lunar_sample_electrical_properties" rel="nofollow noreferrer">how Regolth behaves electrically.</a> It's not a good conductor in the dry state but at least a conductor. However, just a little water rapidly changes that and makes it a rather good conductor! Tiny amounts rapidly increase the conductivity, making it very dangerous to electronics in combination with dew - which happens in low temperatures.</p>
<p>Dust on bearings gunks them up and then starts to grind away the rails.</p>
<p>Dust on filament gets pulled into the hotend and can create clogs.</p>
<p>So, it's rather clear that <strong>we don't want this regolith-dust on our printers.</strong></p>
<h2>Danger mitigation</h2>
<p>You immediately need to take measures to prevent dust from accumulating on the electronics and secondary on moving parts!</p>
<p>If possible, housing the electronics in a dust-sealed box would be preferential, but
housing the printers as a whole in an enclosure might mitigate most of the trouble for the start.</p>
<p>The most simple enclosure that would allow for such would be a simple large wood box, provided that the door contains a seal. For fire protection and to reduce the risk of one spot of the housing getting too high, the inside air should be constantly mixed, best by some sort of permanent running large fan. For further protection, the setup needs to be vented at least when the internal temperature gets too high, allowing to use of the heat of the printers to stabilize the internal temperature - and best even log it.</p>
<p>A venting-trigger temperature should be below 100 °C air temperature, better even 80 °C. But how to reduce the temperature?</p>
<p>The easiest cooling solution is to intake air from the outside, but we need to get the dust out of that. An easy solution would be a HEPA-filter unit. There are permanently running types, that would keep the printer-box(es) under over pressure compared to the atmosphere, keeping the dust from creeping into the box, but that doesn't give us control to heat the chamber if it gets cold.</p>
<p>But we could salvage an old printer board for that! Setting up the thermosensor in such a way that it measures air-temperature is easy. Using the bed and/or hotend exit of the board to some sort of heating element with grids at the filtered intake should be doable, evening out the temperature in the printer box to a minimum safe temperature.</p>
|
2021-02-08T17:07:48.427 | |creality-ender-3|firmware|stepper-driver|creality| | <p>I recently purchased a Creality Ender 3 V2 ~1 month ago, and just yesterday installed a BLTouch. When looking at the motherboard, I noticed my board version is 4.2.2. Isn't the Ender 3 V2 supposed to come with a V 4.2.7 board? Did Creality mistakenly include the wrong board with my printer?</p>
<p>I did some googling but couldn't find a definitive answer. If anyone can, please let me know. My plan (if there was a mistake) is to email Creality customer service, but if any of you have a better suggestion, I'm all ears.</p>
<p>PS: I purchased this directly from Creality website, not Amazon or any other marketplace. Thanks, all.</p>
| 15583 | Is Creality Ender 3 V2 Supposed To Come With Board V 4.2.2? | <p>Yes, they are shipping the v2 with the 4.2.2 board. My understanding is that the 4.2.7 board has a change in the stepper driver pinout but is otherwise the same as 4.2.2. The change in the pinout allowed them to change the stepper driver package as the stepper driver vendor appears to be changing that spec. I've used both boards in my V2 with no discernable difference.</p>
|
2021-02-09T14:35:40.067 | |3d-models|slic3r| | <p>Hello dear Community,</p>
<p>I am trying to print my first Box and I have a problem with the skin of the bottom layers.
After finishing the slicing and while looking into the generated G-code I was wondering why Slic3r increases the E-parameter continuously when 90 % of the lines have the same length and the axis have the same speed. Logically as long as the length of the lines are equal and the speed of the axis is also fixed so the amount of extraction has to be in this case also fix but that is unfortunately not the case. Therefore as you can see in the Result photo, that the printer prints the skin layer at the beginning in the right way with the right amount of extruded material. At the end of the skin layer, it seemed very bad because of the huge amount of extruded material.</p>
<p>Some Infos about my Printer may be interesting for you :
Nozzle diameter = 2.7 mm
Type of Filament= granules
Diameter of filament = 2.5 mm</p>
<p>Please let me know your suggestions and feedbacks.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vc9W8.png" alt="GECODE Part1/Skin Layer" /> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMBP3.png" alt="GCODE Part2/Skin Layer" /></p>
| 15592 | Wrong calculation of E-parameter values | <p>The value you see is the <strong>cumulative</strong> extrusion, in other words the <code>E</code> value in consecutive G-code commands reflect a position of the filament since you started that print.</p>
<p>It is normal that it continuously increases in "absolute" mode.</p>
<p>You should see, at the beginning of the G-code, also a <code>M82</code> or <code>G90</code> command, which means "absolute extrusion". And you should avoid having <code>M83</code> or <code>G91</code> later in G-code, which would change an interpretation of <code>E</code> values to "relative extrusion".</p>
<p>It is more accurate than relative extrusion (which is the mode you are thinking about).</p>
<p>From your print it looks like the printing bed is not properly tuned, probably too far.</p>
<p>Also, it is difficult to see properly, but it looks like you get bubbles in the second part of the print, which are the reason there is an increase of extrusion: hot air pushes too much filament out.</p>
<p>Maybe your granules are not properly dry. It is difficult to tell you more, pellet extruders are more difficult to tune than filament extruders.</p>
|
2021-02-09T16:45:30.963 | |ultimaker-cura|heated-bed| | <p>Repetier-host has a setting to specify the "print area". That's roughly the size of the bed.</p>
<p>Note that the printer head can go out of those bounds, in my case my bed is very undersized compared to the printer frame, but this would also be an issue if you had clips or some obstacles in the bed.</p>
<p>Is there a similar setting in Cura where I can specify the "print area"/"bed size"/"margins" to be different from the printer width/depth?</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p><strong>Repetier host settings:</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAOAA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAOAA.png" alt="Repetier-host" /></a></p>
| 15597 | Ultimaker Cura 4.8 / How to specify bed (Print) Area? | <p>I am not sure this is the "official" solution for this, but I was able to define the "disallowed areas" in a custom printer definition.</p>
<p>I created a json file under C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0\resources\definitions for the printer, and added the machine_disallowed_areas section to "overrides".</p>
<pre><code> "machine_disallowed_areas": {
"default_value": [
[ [ -97.5, 90],[97.5,90] , [97.5,80] ,[-97.5,80] ] ,
[ [ -97.5, -57],[97.5,-57] , [97.5,-90] ,[-97.5,-90] ] ,
[ [ -97.5, -90], [-49.5, -90], [-49.5,90 ] ,[-97.5, 90] ],
[ [ 64.5, 90], [64.5, -90], [97.5, -90], [97.5,90 ] ]
]
}
</code></pre>
|
2021-02-09T23:32:32.100 | |bed-leveling|bltouch|chamber| | <p>I currently use a BLtouch 3.1, which is known to stop operating at about 35-40 °C. In fact, when I preheat the bed at 100 °C close to the probe, I sometimes get issues with the pin not retracting correctly.</p>
<p>I would like in the future to enclose and heat the printer chamber, therefore I need a probe capable of operating at higher temperature. My target is 100 °C.</p>
<p>As of now, I'm aware of this solution:</p>
<p><a href="https://hightemp3d.com/products/remoteht-bed-level-probe-3d-printer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://hightemp3d.com/products/remoteht-bed-level-probe-3d-printer</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>This high temperature probe uses a mechanical switch in combination
with a servo motor to probe the bed. The servo motor is outside the
enclosure and retracts the probe pin by pulling on a steel string
inside a spring guide tube.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Microswitches are known to work at high temperatures (that's what the link above uses), but usually need a servo or other mechanism to extend/retract them when needed. Servos typically don't operate at such high temperature, not to mention that they are usually not very accurate.</p>
<p>I saw a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4138933" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hall filament sensor</a> which uses Hall effect sensors "<a href="https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ss49e</a>" and which could be easily <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLC-4S0aWJmLgpsTpdV56nfbFBFBC1jijn&v=-UwGZgZvYmw&feature=emb_title" rel="nofollow noreferrer">modified to be used as bed probe</a>. Those Hall effect sensors are rated up to 100 °C but at that temperature they have up to 8% shift of the null value and +3/-9% change in sensitivity. The linked project uses two of them in differential mode so the temperature compensation should be much better, but it is not clear how much better. A <a href="https://3dua.info/topic/21-datchik-diametra-filamenta/?page=2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">discussion</a> about it on a Russian forum does not talk about this.</p>
<p>Are there other options operating at 100 °C?</p>
| 15605 | What are my options if I want to install a bed levelling sensor capable of operating at 100 °C? | <p>There are various designs which can be made to work at 100 °C.</p>
<p>For example this <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4390007" rel="nofollow noreferrer">solenoid probe</a> uses a solenoid to lift a plunger during print, letting it drop during probing. The design uses a rare earth magnet which usually loses strength at 60-80 °C, but there are high temperature versions or a ferrite magnet will do. It also uses an Attiny13, rated 80 °C, but there are higher temperature versions of the chip. It is likely that it would work out of specs at 100 °C too, but it uses an optical endstop, which is the limiting factor with 85 °C typical.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4689074" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This other design</a> uses a solenoid to push up and down a tactile switch. I see no reason why the solenoid would not work at 100 °C, maybe only the external wires may require replacement to withstand the temperature. There is no electronics limiting the operating temperature.</p>
<p>Other <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3593971" rel="nofollow noreferrer">designs</a> with a servo are limited by the temperature range of the servo, which is typically 50-60 °C max. I think they would work fine up to 80 °C since they are not operated continuously and they are loaded with little force, but there is no guarantee.</p>
<p>Another <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752968" rel="nofollow noreferrer">design</a> working perfectly and with an even lower total weight is based on a microswitch and... the user placing the probe in position manually. It can probably be automated by mounting it on a hinge and by using something on the side of the bed to move it in an upright position and in a tilted position, where it could be held by (ferrite) magnets.</p>
|
2021-02-09T23:44:54.657 | |filament|print-material|water-resistance| | <p>I have PLA and PETG filament.</p>
<p>I hear that 3D filament absorbs water and causes problems when printing but after printing they can be used with water and they are water proof.</p>
<p>So my question is why is it different after printing/what has changed to make it now waterproof?</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Is PETG waterproof or does it absorb water?</p>
</li>
<li><p>Is there a limit on how much water PETG can absorb or will it keep going until it splits and turns to mush?</p>
</li>
</ul>
| 15606 | How do filament properties change after printing? (In relation to water absorbtion) | <p>The properties of the maternal are not what changes after you print. It is how you use the material. PLA and ABS prints aren't usually subject to +100 °C after printing.</p>
<p>When PLA absorbs moisture it becomes brittle. PLA filament will break when trying to print. Your PLA print may be thick enough so that brittle doesn't cause a problem. However, this can be a problem if you intend your PLA print to be flexible.</p>
<p>The main issue with PETG absorbing moisture is the water changing to steam in the extruder. PETG becomes soft and will distort with force applied at +100 °C; so generally moisture isn't a issue with PETG prints, due to application.</p>
<p>PLA and PETG absorb moisture, but do not dissolve in water. Usually what a person means by waterproofing is water won't seep through the layers of the material and leak out of a container. Note: most glass will absorb small amounts of moisture, but are still waterproof.</p>
<p>If one wants a hermetic seal this is a similar issue. One person printing hermetic prints said thicker layers make it easier to be hermetic. Thicker layers also tend to make the printer stronger, but can also give less detail in the print.</p>
|
2021-02-10T20:47:04.303 | |bed-leveling|z-probe|homing| | <p>I'm using Marlin. Recently my Z-probing randomly doesn't work. Sometimes during Z-Homing <strong>it goes up</strong> instead of going down to sense the Bed! In Bed Leveling it goes higher and higher every time. It got frustrating so I ignored Bed-leveling.</p>
<p>Sometimes I get a fine Z-homing but it always <strong>starts printing in the air!!!</strong> I have no Idea why it happens. All home and axis offsets and setting are fine. I had no problem last time I used my printer.
Why my printer starts printing <strong>5 mm</strong> in the air?</p>
| 15614 | Marlin Z-probe Failure! | <p>I found the problem. I'm using an aluminum structure for my gantry. My Chinese power supply was in contact with this structure. There was a current leak from my power supply that was messing with the Z-probe signal.<br />
I detached the power supply, everything's gotten back to normal, except it had my board and TMC2100 drivers fried a week ago.</p>
|
2021-02-11T12:41:52.187 | |print-quality|3d-design|support-structures| | <p>I'm quite new to 3D-printing. I need to build a curved piece with a hole pattern and I was wondering whether it was possible to print such a hole pattern accurately, with such a thin (3 mm) thickness of the piece. In the past, when I tried printing thinner pieces with holes, the piece warped and holes were not printed properly. Therefore is there any changes to the model I need to make to improve the quality of the print, or add any supports?
I am using an Ender 3 Pro, with PLA.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2h6A.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2h6A.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15618 | How to accurately print a thin piece with a hole pattern | <ol>
<li>Use the smallest nozzle possible to get better rounded edges on holes.</li>
<li>Slow down the print speed to increase accuracy and prevent errors.</li>
<li>Print it face down against the bed if possible to reduce support requirements for overhangs and increase hole quality.</li>
<li>Clean the bed well, increase bed temperature, stick glue, enable brim, or add 'mouse ears' to prevent warping.</li>
<li>Make sure the bed is levelled properly to prevent warping and increase finish surface quality.</li>
<li>Use a 'stringing tester' to find the best temperature to print at so that you can prevent stringing between holes.</li>
<li>Enable z-hop retraction to prevent stringing and errors.</li>
<li>You can bore through the holes with a drill to clean them flush.</li>
</ol>
|
2021-02-12T14:40:17.830 | |extrusion|heat|heat-creep| | <p>Printer configuration and many settings affect heat creep. Heat creep stopping extrusion doesn't necessarily involve melting the filament too high above the nozzle. All it takes is making the filament too soft. The filament may bend and wad up (the importance to avoid gaps in the hot end allowing this). On direct drives (not Bowden tubes) the filament can get soft so that the teeth on the direct drive cuts a notch in the filament instead of pushing it through the nozzle.</p>
<p>[moved to answer]</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/97Ay2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/97Ay2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Fig. 1: Some typical signs of heat creep on the filament of a direct drive. 1) notch in filament where gear spins in soft filament. 2) normal teeth marks in filament. 3) soft filament bending. 4) soft filament bunches in open area. With a Bowden tube, the filament widens at the end.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0kqr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0kqr.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Fig. 2.: Another example of heat creep with a direct drive extruder.</p>
<p><strong>Note</strong>: Setting the retraction too high can cause the extruder to jam, but this is not heat creep. Although, the symptom could be mistaken for heat creep.</p>
<p><strong>Also note</strong>: Printing materials like PETG too fast can clog the nozzle because the filament doesn't have time to melt. This is the opposite cause from heat creep. On some direct drive extruders you can tell the difference in the appearance of the jammed filament moving too fast versus heat creep because the filament is rigid when moving too fast and tends to jam in the nozzle giving a similar appearance to heat creep in Bowden tubes extruders. When PETG jams in a direct drive as shown in Figure 3, both raising the temperature of the extruder (more heat to melt the filament) and improving the cooling of the heat sink (drive teeth digging into stiffer filament) <strong>also</strong> helps.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JetlE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JetlE.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Fig. 3.: Filament with end expanded in nozzle showing jam from filament moving too fast and not heating enough.</p>
<p>A defect in the filament can jam in the tube to the hot end, as well as the filament hanging up on the spool or in the path to the hot end. This can also stop extrusion.</p>
<p>Of course different materials change the characteristics of heat creep, but what are other things affecting heat creep?</p>
<p>This is expanded from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13328/how-is-heat-creep-characterized">How is heat creep characterized?</a></p>
| 15629 | What are ways to avoid heat creep? | <p>Things to consider (This is expanded from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13328/how-is-heat-creep-characterized">How is heat creep characterized?</a>):</p>
<ol>
<li><p>The air volume of the cooling fan on the hotend heat sink affects the temperature gradient across the heat sink. Usually the size/geometry of the fan depends on the printer design, so the main parameter of a fan that controls air volume is the rpm. I've noticed fans fitting hotends from 6,000 to 10,000 rpm. The higher rpm the better as far as preventing heat creep. Of course, make sure the fan is spinning properly.</p>
</li>
<li><p>The raising the temperature of the extruder increases the chance of heat creep.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>A high resistive connection to the sensor will cause a lower that actual temperature reading. Thus, the controller will raise the hotend to a higher temperature than set, which can cause het creep.</li>
</ul>
<ol start="3">
<li>Razing the temperature of the heated bed, especially when the printer is in an enclosure, increases the chance of heat creep because this raises the temperature of the air the fan blows across the heatsink.</li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>What can be useful is using higher extrusion and bed temperatures for the first layer, then set lower temperatures on subsequent layers to reduce the chances of heat creep.</li>
</ul>
<ol start="4">
<li>The slower the print speed the higher the chance of heat creep. That's because a slower print speed gives the filament more time to heat up in the extruder. Many slicers have a setting that slows down the print speed if a layer will finish below a given time. If this slowed down time causes heat creep, the extrusion will stop when the printer reaches these smaller area layers.</li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>Too much travel of the extruder without extruding has a similar effect because the filament isn't moving. I verified that connecting isolated structures on a design with heat creep can eliminate it. Using a little more material for thin walls is better than scraping prints.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Example:</strong> This is easy to demonstrate with PETG. Design a table printed top down 100 mm square with four legs 5 mm square and 100 mm long. Set the parameters so that you start to get heat creep when printing the legs. Now put four 1 mm thick walls between the legs to get the heat creep to go away.</p>
<ul>
<li>Sometimes if you start a second print without letting the extruder cool down from the first print, heat creep will cause the extruder to jam.</li>
</ul>
<ol start="5">
<li><p>The heater block might be too close to the heatsink so that they bypass the heat breaks reduction in conducting heat.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Hotends for temperatures 245 °C and below can use such things as Teflon tubing in the heat break to isolate the filament from the metal. But, +250 °C nozzle temperatures need all metal hotends.</p>
</li>
<li><p>The PID settings in the firmware might be letting the hotend temperature overshoot too high.</p>
</li>
</ol>
|
2021-02-13T14:04:25.790 | |openscad| | <p>I've put together a flashlight mount for a camera coldshoe in OpenSCAD. I originally modeled it in FreeCAD and it was easy to round the edges of the clamp with a fillet and that makes it a little easier to get the light in and out of the mount.</p>
<p>I'm not sure how to do it in OpenSCAD. Naively, I'm sure I could calculate where on my semicircle I would need to add some cylinders in order to round the sharp corners, but it seems like there'd be something a little easier than that.</p>
<p>Am I missing something?</p>
<p>Here's the <a href="https://github.com/tncbbthositg/cold_shoe_light_mount/blob/795489c90f412502a2545536e906ad8971cfd691/cold_shoe_light_mount.scad" rel="nofollow noreferrer">coldshoe light mount SCAD file</a> and this is what it looks like:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/StF93.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/StF93.png" alt="coldshoe light mount" /></a></p>
| 15637 | Is there an easy way to add rounded edges to semicircle in OpenSCAD? | <p>I ended up taking a third option I suppose. I decided I was cutting the gap wrong. I was using <code>difference</code> to take a rectangle out of the ring.</p>
<p>I decided I'd simplify that and take out an extruded triangle.</p>
<pre><code>ringRadius = radius + thickness;
verticalOffset = tan(gapAngle / 2) * ringRadius;
linear_extrude(height = height)
polygon(points = [[0, 0], [ringRadius, verticalOffset], [ringRadius, -verticalOffset]]);
</code></pre>
<p>That way, the thickness of the plane that needed rounding is uniformely the thickness of the ring. Then, it was just a matter of adding cylinders, centering them in the ring, and rotating them into position.</p>
<pre><code>for(side = [-1, 1]) {
cornerRadius = radius + thickness / 2;
rotate([0, 0, gapAngle / 2 * side])
translate([cornerRadius, 0, 0])
color("blue") cylinder(r = thickness / 2, h = height);
}
</code></pre>
<p>Eventually I'd like to make it a little more complex and help accommodate a light better, but for now it gets me the rounded ends I was looking for.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQll4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQll4.png" alt="Rounded ends of ring" /></a></p>
<p>I'm still going to accept the round everything answer because, though I decided it was more complexity than it was worth on this model, it looks like it would solve other rounding issues too.</p>
|
2021-02-13T21:09:29.593 | |creality-ender-3|slic3r|prusaslicer| | <p>I am very comfortable with using PrusaSlicer and having a hard time adapting Cura.</p>
<p>Is there any downloadable well-tested PrusaSlicer profile for some of the Creality printers?</p>
| 15641 | Is there a well-tested Ender 3 printer profile for PrusaSlicer available for download? | <p>Open PrusaSlicer, go to Configuration -> Configuration wizard, then go to page named "Other Vendors", tick the checkbox next to the name "Creality", then click "Next" at the bottom right of the window. A page with a handful of Creality printers should appear including Ender 3. Tick the checkbox under Creality Ender 3. Then click "Finish" at the bottom right. The profile should appear in the selection.</p>
<p>It imports various print settings (from 0.3 mm to 0.08 mm I believe) as well as some basic material presets. You can import more materials by just going to the "Filaments" page in the Configuration wizard and ticking the desired options.</p>
<p>The profiles are tested by PrusaResearch themselves I believe and I think they are based on other profiles found online with some tweaks and adjustments to better fit to PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p>I am using PrusaSlicer 2.3.0</p>
<p>Here is an image, what it should look like. Your colors might be different, I asume you are using Windows, wheras I am using Linux Mint.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKxY4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKxY4.png" alt="PrusaSlicer Creality printer selection screen" /></a></p>
|
2021-02-14T01:56:22.100 | |z-probe|monoprice-mp-10| | <p>Has anyone successfully replaced the inductive Z probe on the Monoprice MP10 (Mini or regular) with a different type, such as BLTouch or IR?
I find that the stock inductive probe isn't so accurate, and since it's inductive it only works with the aluminum build plate but not with glass or PEI, which I much prefer.</p>
| 15645 | Replacement Z Probe for MP10 | <p>From Thingiverse you can find a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375246" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BLTouch mount</a> for the MP10 (and MP10 mini):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktq4u.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="MonoPrice MP10 BLTouch mount"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ktq4u.png" alt="MonoPrice MP10 BLTouch mount" title="MonoPrice MP10 BLTouch mount" /></a></p>
<p>Note that in order to use the BLTouch sensor you need a different controller board that supports connecting a BLTouch sensor as the MonoPrice controller board doesn't support connecting a BLTouch sensor.</p>
<p>From <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375246" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ref.</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>A BLTouch adapter for the Monoprice MP10 & MP10 Mini. NOTE: you will need an open source control board to get this to work as the stock firmware on the MP10 line of products does not allow for a BLTouch.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2021-02-14T19:56:45.323 | |marlin| | <p>A print that is paused with an <code>M0</code> can be unpaused with <code>M108</code>.
That works with my Chiron running Marlin 2.0.7.2.
However, it also has a display that uses its' own serial protocol to communicate with Marlin. I want that display to be able to unpause my printer when it has encountered <code>M0</code> in the G-code.
I tried <code>injectCommands_P(PSTR("M108\n"));</code> in the code, but it did not work. Perhaps I should not have a new-line at the end of it.</p>
<p>What is the correct command to do this?</p>
<pre><code>void GcodeSuite::M108() {
TERN_(HAS_RESUME_CONTINUE, wait_for_user = false);
wait_for_heatup = false;
}
</code></pre>
<p>Above is the Marlin code for <code>M108</code>. Would be great if someone could decipher what TERN means.</p>
| 15649 | How to programmatically resume a paused print in Marlin | <p>The correct Marlin-command to unpause seems to be <code>setUserConfirmed()</code>. I have tested that it works.</p>
|
2021-02-16T10:57:55.650 | |bed-leveling|bltouch|creality-cr-10| | <p>I'm pretty much a noob to the 3D printing community. I got a Creality CR10 V2 as my first 3D printer and I know it's compatible with BLTouch but not included in the package. So I'm dying to add an ABL feature to my 3D printer but I'm on an extremely tight budget right now. However, I found some industrial IR sensors (two Omron E3Z-D82 and five Keyence PZ-M71) in my toolboxes. I know those sensors are pretty expensive and totally overkill for ABV but I want to use what I got in my hands.</p>
<p>So the question, can I use those sensors for auto bed leveling? I should say that my printer has a glass build plate. By the way, I'm also open to different cheap alternatives</p>
<p>Here are the links to the sensors for more information:</p>
<ul>
<li>Omron: <a href="https://industrial.omron.eu/en/products/E3Z-D82-2M" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://industrial.omron.eu/en/products/E3Z-D82-2M</a></li>
<li>Keyence:
<a href="https://www.keyence.eu/products/sensor/photoelectric/pz-v_m/models/pz-m71/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.keyence.eu/products/sensor/photoelectric/pz-v_m/models/pz-m71/</a></li>
</ul>
| 15661 | Can I use photoelectric sensors to make auto bed leveling on a glass bed? | <p>3D printers like the German Reprap (see image) already uses a photosensor for homing the axes. The trick will be leveling the leveling sensors.</p>
<p>However, if you use an optical sensor measuring distance, you could mount it on the hotend like we do digital indicators (drop gauge). See <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/470/bed-leveling-method/14526#14526">Bed leveling method?</a>
You would want a resolution of about 0.01 mm. That method will keep you planer to the movement of the hotend. For automatic leveling the photosensor needs to input to your software.</p>
<p>If you want to permanently connect the photosensor to the hotend, probably the most practical communication method would be USB, which could supply power as well as communication to eliminate batteries. The USB cable could run in the path of the other hotend cables. Less weight on the hot end is if you could remote the laser and detector from the electronics.</p>
<p>If only attached during leveling, batteries and wireless connection is better.</p>
<p>I'm finding more digital drop gauges (second image below, data in cable is USB) with computer interfaces than photosensors. Many of the photosensors would need to interface with a meter first. Because a drop meter makes physical contact, it's not practical to leave on the hotend during printing.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VEc3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6VEc3.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDK9n.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDK9n.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2021-02-16T13:09:02.410 | |troubleshooting|z-axis|petg|anycubic-i3-mega|bigtreetech| | <p>I'm currently facing a Z banding issue that frustrates me more and more.</p>
<p>My printer is a modified Anycubic I3 Mega.</p>
<p>Customizations:</p>
<ul>
<li>Mainboard: Bigtreetech SKR 1.4 Turbo</li>
<li>Stepper Drivers: TMC 2208 v3</li>
<li>Hotend: E3D Titan Aero</li>
<li>Hotbed: 5 mm aluminum base plate with a 200 W 12 V silicon heat mat and 3 mm hard paper as print base</li>
<li>External MOSFETs for the hotbed and hotend each</li>
<li>Bigtreetech 3.5 inch TFT screen as display</li>
<li>BL Touch sensor</li>
<li>Marlin version 2.0.6.1</li>
</ul>
<p>What I tried to fix this issue:</p>
<ul>
<li>check leadscrews for debris</li>
<li>cleaned leadscrews and applied new grease</li>
<li>checked Z couplers and hand tightened all screws</li>
<li>checked tightness of the Y/X axis belts</li>
<li>increased the driver current</li>
<li>replaced the 12 V 25 A PSU with a 12 V 30 A PSU</li>
<li>Extruder steps re-calibration</li>
<li>PID auto tune for hotend and bed</li>
</ul>
<p>Pictures of the XYZ calibration cubes I printed:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA6jt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA6jt.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8z0cA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8z0cA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Used slicer parameters (Prusa Slicer):</p>
<ul>
<li>material: PETG</li>
<li>240 °C / 100 °C hotend/bed</li>
<li>Infill 30 % with 60 mm/s</li>
<li>outer perimeter with 30 mm/s</li>
<li>100 mm/s travel speed</li>
<li>1 mm retraction with 40 mm/s retraction speed</li>
</ul>
<p>The number of these horizontal lines and their occurrence is different on each print.</p>
<p>Any ideas?</p>
| 15662 | Z banding issue | <p>So it looks like I finally resolved that issue. I compiled a complete new firmware based on the Marlin bugfix branch. Before I was working on the sources provided in the Bigtreetech GitHub. I started from scratch and put all the settings I needed into the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Now all rings are gone. Either there was really a bug or something or I messed up something in the firmware I used before and beginning from scratch solved it.</p>
|
2021-02-17T07:32:48.363 | |troubleshooting|creality-ender-5|bigtreetech|skr-mini-e3|3d-printerworks| | <p>I have a Creality Ender 5 Pro which has been working properly for some time. During my last print, the axis motors just suddenly stopped working while the extruder motor continued to work properly.</p>
<p>In fact, when I connect the extruder motor wire to any of the axis motors, they respond correctly (mimicking the extruder motor) but neither works or moves when connected to its own wire(s). As a result the printer does not print anymore.</p>
<p>Here's what I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Switching the wires around to check if any motors are damaged (none are).</li>
<li>Restarting the Creality</li>
<li>Checking the output on the power source (which is 24 V and about 14 A)</li>
<li>Checking to make sure all motor wires are connected correctly on the SKR MINI CONTROLLER (all seem fine) and checking that the board is powered.</li>
<li>All external connections also seem fine.</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm quite confused why the axis motors would not be working all of a sudden. I'll appreciate your help if you've faced this problem before.</p>
| 15667 | Why would all of the Ender 5 Pro's axis motors (X, Y and Z) stop being able to move (all at once)? | <p>Usually, steppers not working can be found when the lines are broken. Often this is an unplugged Stepper, but OP checked that.</p>
<p>That 3 steppers at once failed could indicate a bad firmware update, which OP didn't do. So it is sadly a case of blue smoke from the board. Most likely the stepper drivers are either shortened out or get no signal.</p>
<p>I am sorry, but replacement seems necessary.</p>
|
2021-02-18T15:23:18.763 | |marlin|print-quality|anycubic-chiron| | <p>I have run the <a href="https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">K-factor Calibration Pattern generator</a> to tune <code>LIN_ADVANCE</code> and found that when <code>K=0</code>, the whole middle part of the line is thinner.
I was expecting that <code>LIN_ADVANCE</code> would only make a difference short after where the speed was increased or decreased, as described by the first picture <a href="https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/linear-advance-marlin-firmware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">on this page</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0I61W.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0I61W.jpg" alt="Running 01_.gcode" /></a></p>
<p>So from this picture, it looks as the best setting is around K=0.8 and that is also what was set as default in <code>Configuration.h</code> for Chiron. But when I tried the Printing Direction-setting set to 45 degrees the result was different. Then the best setting was around <code>K=0.4</code>.</p>
<p>The picture below shows a second test, where I set <code>K=0</code> and just changed the fast speed. The faster the thinner lines were printed. I have tested printing long lines and seen that thickness will not compensate, even after a long time.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSgFC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSgFC.jpg" alt="Running x01_.gcode" /></a></p>
<p>So why is my printer printing thinner lines when going fast and not using <code>LIN_ADVANCE</code>? Isn't the number of E-steps per mm printed line constant and not depending on the speed?</p>
<p>Here is a <a href="https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/LIN_ADVANCE-test_v001.zip" rel="nofollow noreferrer">zip-file</a> with the files used and pictures. (let me know if not possible to download)</p>
<p><strong>ADDED 2021-02-22:</strong>
To learn more about LIN_ADVANCE I made a second test today. To rule out most of the uncertainties that can affect the result, I let the bed stay heated between all four tests. Every test started at 210ºC, then 200, 190 and last 185ºC. The printer waited more than one minute between each temperature change. Bed temperature set to 60ºC. The lines are numbered in the order they are printed. Each test started by printing four lines at 20 mm/s to get "normal" nozzle pressure. Each line is 20+40+20=80mm long. Today I had acceleration set to 1200 and jerk to 8, which are higher than before (500,5). I changed because I use these values in Cura. Unfortunately, the bed is not 100% flat.</p>
<p>LIN_ADVANCE = <strong>0.0</strong>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6DRs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/E6DRs.jpg" alt="LIN_ADVANCE = 0.0" /></a></p>
<p>LIN_ADVANCE = <strong>0.4</strong>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJobr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJobr.jpg" alt="LIN_ADVANCE = 0.4" /></a></p>
<p>LIN_ADVANCE = <strong>0.8</strong>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l099y.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l099y.jpg" alt="LIN_ADVANCE = 0.8" /></a></p>
<p>LIN_ADVANCE = <strong>1.2</strong>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8moP5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8moP5.jpg" alt="LIN_ADVANCE = 1.2" /></a></p>
<p>What I learned from these today's test:</p>
<ol>
<li>Very little ooze when going from 190 to 185ºC. (#46 is good)</li>
<li>At higher temperatures after pausing for a minute, the printer needed some 10 to 15cm of printing distance to get the pressure back. (#16, #17)</li>
<li>Next time I will print every second line as a reference and test fewer speed changes.</li>
<li>Next time I will also test higher temperatures.</li>
<li>The lines are printed thinner at higher speed, independent of temperature when K=0. (I thought it only happened at (too) low temperature).</li>
<li><code>LIN_ADVANCE</code> setting shall probably be lower when printing at higher temperatures (affected by filament viscosity).</li>
<li>It might be different behaviour between the grey and the orange filament. Orange looks better, but the grey one sticks better to the bed.</li>
<li>It is fun to do testing. :)</li>
</ol>
<p>I did another test the first day, where I tested K=0 to K=0.8 and where the speed was 20+50+20 mm/s and the length was 60+180+60mm. Temp was 190ºC. It seems to show that even after 180mm of fast printing, the thickness is not recovered:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qctnt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qctnt.jpg" alt="180mm test" /></a></p>
<p>The pictures above are uploaded at a lower resolution. Original pictures and the G-code can be downloaded from <a href="https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/LIN_ADVANCE-test_v002.zip" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
| 15684 | Why are fast printed lines thinner? | <p>In your case, since linear advance makes the issue disappear, the reason of the thinner lines is the same as explained in the link you provided:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pTnB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pTnB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The section (2) simply is very long because you probably have a Bowden setup which takes more than the length of the middle section to recover. However it does recover, see the first line (k=0) in the first image.</p>
<p>At higher (constant) speed the flowrate decreases further due to pressure in the nozzle causing a reduced supply of filament, but this effect cannot be corrected by linear advance because linear advance assumes a linear relationship between pressure in the nozzle and extrusion.</p>
|
2021-02-19T00:53:54.340 | |marlin|firmware|y-axis| | <p>Just as the title says. I feel like I have tried everything. I am compiling the firmware for Marlin on a Megatronics board from RepRap. That shouldn't be relevant, because I have validated that it is a firmware issue (and not a pin assignment/hardware issue).</p>
<p>When I turn it on, the Y-axis is active and just constantly holding. The stepper driver on Y-axis gets pretty warm constantly holding (as does the stepper motor).</p>
<p>When I swap the pin assignments for Y and X then the physical Y-axis moves fine when I manually change the X-axis so I know all the hardware and pin assignments are correct.</p>
<p>All the endstops are correctly reporting open (Z is BLTouch but that is also working).</p>
<p>Relevant software endstops are currently disabled, and default homing position is set to 50 to make sure it doesn't think it is at the bounds on boot.</p>
<p>I have a test firmware that checks all the endstops, temperature, and servos, and all servos work fine. As a sanity check, pin assignments match what is in the pins file.</p>
<p>Does anyone have any idea of what in the latest Marlin firmware would cause a software condition to just hold the y axis and not move? I should note that when I try to manually move it in Repetier-Host it shows that it is moving. When I try to give the home command, no movement on the Y but Repetier changes from red to black indicating it received confirmation of homing.</p>
<p>I am completely out of ideas at this point.</p>
| 15690 | Can't get Y-Axis to move with Marlin firmware | <p>I ran into the same problem. After looking into the pin layout for the board I saw the following:</p>
<pre><code>#elif EXTRUDERS <= 2
// Hijack the last extruder so that we can get the PWM signal off the Y breakout
// Move Y to the E2 plug. This makes dual Y steppers harder
</code></pre>
<p>This prompted me to move the stepper driver and the motor cable to the E2 connector on the board. (The one on the other side of the X connector, Order is Z,Y,X,E2,E1,E0)
That worked for me.</p>
<p>So, you could move the stepper driver and motor cable. Or you could commment/remove that code from the pins_MEGATRONICS_3.h file</p>
|
2021-02-19T23:45:38.477 | |creality-cr-10|y-axis| | <p>I have a used Creality CR-10S and I have been using it for one day. I seem to be having problems with my Y-axis. Several times when I selected "Auto home", the bed only moved part of the distance it should have for the head to get to the bottom left corner. It is only the bed movement that has the problem; the head successfully goes to the extreme left each time.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Lth9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Lth9.jpg" alt="This picture shows an instance when the bed only moved half as far as it should." /></a></p>
<p>It does not always happen and when it does, it seems to usually go half as far as it should, but once the bed did not move back at all. I am having a similar problem on "Bed Auto Leveling". Once when it was supposed to go to the back left corner, the nozzle went past the bed by about 5mm. I tried to reposition it with "Move axis" but it thinks it is at 0.00 and it won't let me go negative. One way I can fix it is to "Disable steppers" and then move the bed by hand.</p>
<p>I have done two prints and in both cases there was no Y-axis drift during the print. After first print, "Auto home" only went half way but I was not paying attention to other details. After the second print the machine was off and I moved the bed by hand in response to @octopus8. Then I turned it on and selected "Auto home". The head descended and moved all the way to the left but the Y-axis did not move at all.</p>
<p>When I move the bed by hand through its entire range, either with the machine off or after choosing "Disable steppers", it is pretty smooth. It has some resistance to movement, about the same as the X-axis resistance. I can feel very small "steps" if I move it very slowly. These are both consistent throughout its entire range. There are no individual spots where it behaves differently.</p>
<p>I have made sure that the bed's belt is tight. I check the wheels.under the bed. I cleaned them with a rag. When I turned them by hand, several were slipping against the rail (not causing the bed to move when I turned the wheel.) I tightened their bolts and that tightened some of them against the rail but a couple others still slip against the rail. Is this important? After these adjustments and turning printer on, "Auto home" worked and the steps on "Bed Auto Leveling" also did the correct things. I will report on more post-adjust experience as I get it.</p>
<p>Ever since I tightened the Y-axis belt and wheels I have not had the problem happen again having done 10+ prints. I tried the gcode that @octopus8 suggested at various speeds and the print head always ended up back where it started.</p>
<p>I will keep printing and if I experience the problem again I will investigate more then.</p>
| 15699 | Y-axis movement error | <p>octopus8 recommended doing a series of tests to determine the cause of the problem.</p>
<p>I started with moving the bed by hand (remember to have machine off or choose "Disable steppers" from "Prepare" menu) and the movement was relatively smooth with some resistance, the same as when moving the X-axis. If you move very slowly you can feel slight, small "steps", this is normal. The movement was consistent across the range of movement.</p>
<p>Since this did not indicate a problem, I moved on to checking the drive belt and the bearing wheels. The belt had a small amount of slack which I tightened. Several of the wheels under the bed slipped against the rail they run along. I tightened these. This improved the movement of a couple of them but a couple still slipped a bit.</p>
<p>After this I did not have the problem anymore. For 10+ prints over a week or so, there was no incorrect Y-axis movement and "Auto home" always worked. Nevertheless I continued with the next test suggestion which was to send some simple gcode to the printer via USB. I used both Ultimaker Cura 4.8.0's Monitor mode as well as [sending the commands from the linux terminal][1]. I sent the commands</p>
<pre><code>G28
G0 F<speed>
G0 X200 Y0
G0 X200 Y200
G0 X0 Y200
G0 X0 Y0
</code></pre>
<p>with values of 900,1800,2700,3600 and 4500 for and everytime the print head returned to the same place.</p>
<p>This is evidence that the tightening of the belt and wheels likely fixed the problem.
[1]: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3112/how-to-directly-send-g-code-to-printer-from-a-linux-terminal">How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?</a></p>
|
2021-02-23T05:24:53.203 | |print-quality|pla|prusa-i3|nozzle|nylon| | <p>Using Prusa I3 MK3S</p>
<p>I am using PLA fillement and I need to do cold pull from time to time.</p>
<p>I noticed many people on Internet suggestusing Nylon fillement for clod pull.</p>
<p>I wanted to reach out to this community and ask if it is better using Nylon fillement for cold pull even if I have been using PLA?</p>
| 15727 | Is it better use Nylon fillement for cold pull even if I have been using PLA? | <p>Nylon holds better when pulled, PLA may snap.</p>
<p>Also it can grab particles around it, but it keeps low friction so the force you use to pull goes to detaching the dirt instead of rubbing against the walls.</p>
<p>By getting solid and by maintaining strength at higher temperatures, you can pull when it's hotter (with PLA you should pull at what? 40 °C?) and by being hotter can grab particles and remains of other filaments which are potentially softer. It's pulled at around 140-150 °C so that ABS and PLA at that temperature are very sticky and soft.</p>
<p>By holding easily higher temperatures (250-260 °C easily) you can also extrude it and it will melt any other filament in the nozzle.</p>
<p>Try doing some cold pulls with a light colour PLA to be able to see what it grabs. After a couple of pulls it should be clean. Then do nylon and check how much more stuff it will remove. If it's nothing, no need of using nylon. If it's dirty, it's the proof it can clean everything better than PLA.</p>
<p>A sample of nylon (50 g usually) will be sufficient for a long time so no need to get a full spool.</p>
|
2021-02-23T13:04:44.800 | |electronics|arduino-mega-2650|switching-power-supply|raspberry-pi|ramps-1.6| | <p>I'm going to add a Raspberry Pi to my printer, which requires a 5 V source. I want to take this opportunity to also power the Arduino with that same source, as dropping 12 V -> 5 V is a quite big waste. I know the electronics don't consume much power, and the regulator can handle the heat, but why not?</p>
<p>I want to know how can I safely do this. Is it sufficient to just bent the pin from the RAMPS to the Arduino's VIN?</p>
<p>I'm also using TMC2209 stepper drivers. According to this: <a href="https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/pinconfig/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/pinconfig/</a>, these requires the 12 V line to turn on before and turn off after the 5 V.
I wonder if this is true, as I haven't seen this anywhere else.</p>
| 15731 | How should I connect a separated 5 V source to an Arduino connected to a RAMPS board | <p>I would not recommend changing Arduino powering.
You can either do as you say and power Arduino by giving it regulated 5V to Vin, but then the ATMEGA2560 still will be powered through the 5V voltage regulator. The voltage regulator (NCP1117ST50T3G) needs to be supplied with 6.5V to give out regulated 5V. So you will be powering the Arduino with some 4V, which might work, but it will be less reliable. But it is electrically safe.</p>
<p>Second option is to power Arduino through it's 5V pin. That is less safe, because the voltage regulator might have an over output-over-voltage-protection that will to load or short-circuit the 5V until it is 5.000V.</p>
<p>Regarding TMC2209. I have not seen any documentation that has any opinion on what order it shall be powered up and down.</p>
|
2021-02-24T16:57:35.127 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura| | <p>I'm printing a lot of draft parts so I don't care if they fall apart in my fingers, I just need the shape. I can scroll to the Tune menu on my Ender 3 Pro console and set the speed to 200% and it doubles the speed. But when I set the Print Speed setting to 100 instead of 50 mm/s in Cura, it doesn't save much time, even if I adjust the individual first layer speed, wall speed, top layer speed, etc. What is the difference?</p>
<p>Ideally, I would like the first layer to print normally, and then print at 2x speed.</p>
| 15740 | What is the difference between tuning the speed on the Ender 3 panel, and the Cura Print Speed setting? | <p>I figured it out.</p>
<p>Feed rate, in general, is the speed of a single print move, from point A to point B. It is specified with every <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G1 command</a> that commands a move. Setting the feed rate on the printer console will scale the feed rate of every move the printer makes. The Cura "Print speed" setting is used as a basis to set the print speed (Feed rate) of different line types. Eg. Infil is 100% of this speed, walls are 50% of this speed, etc.</p>
<p>There are several other settings that will make Cura will decide not to use the speed that you set.</p>
<ul>
<li>Minimum layer time. In my case, this prevented the walls of the calibration cube from reaching the maximum speed. They were slowed down until so that each layer took at least 10 seconds.</li>
<li>Lines that overhangs are scaled to a percentage of what they would normally print at.</li>
<li>Bridge speed settings are found in the experimental settings, and if enabled they will override the speed for bridges.</li>
</ul>
<p>In addition, the printer's acceleration setting may prevent it from reaching the maximum speed. You can see this if you issue this command during printing:</p>
<pre><code>M201 X50 Y50 ; Set max acceleration
</code></pre>
<p>The print will slow down a lot until you set it back to the default. The printer will accelerate and decelerate slowly and simply never reach the maximum speed over short distances. The default in the Marlin firmware (for Ender) seems to be:</p>
<pre><code>M201 X500 Y500 ; Set max acceleration
</code></pre>
|
2021-02-24T20:38:49.417 | |diy-3d-printer|3d-design| | <p>I need to find a way to design and build a real shopping cart for my project. I have not idea where to start from but I'm thinking maybe I can 3D print the shopping cart which will allow me to quickly iterate on the design. How could go about with 3D printing a project like this?</p>
<p>Please I will appreciate other suggestions better than 3D printing</p>
| 15742 | How to 3D print a shopping cart | <p>If you need a real shopping cart, please think about <strong>actual requirements</strong>.</p>
<p>Carts are sturdy devices, build on <strong>very consistent frame</strong>, because they are meant to carry heavy loads. The built must be focused on <strong>good jonts</strong> and <strong>durable wheels</strong>, otherwise forces from load or streatching would quickly damage the construction. Some parts of frame are normally under strain, and a direction of load forces is not always downwards, therefore frame has to be robust.</p>
<p>Cheap <strong>additive manufacturing</strong> technologies of standard printers are not suitable to produce objects of this size in one piece. If to follow this idea, one chellange would be to design pieces of the print, which could be connected or glued into a ready cart. 3d prints have tendency to snap along layers of print, therefore frame would need to be carefuly built from parts designed to be printed horizontally, rather than vertically. Construction of wheels carrying the cart with assumed load could be not possible, because load forces could mangle them very quickly.</p>
<p>Only the amount of material needed to print the whole thing could <strong>exceed cost of the cart</strong>. And the same would be about more expensive printing techniques, like printing of metal. The shopping cart is a good example of thing which is <strong>not worth printing</strong> (at least in 2021).</p>
<p>BTW: Shopping carts have some plastic parts, and printing these could be indeed possible. I suppose they are only <strong>protectors</strong>, not a part of cart construction frame.</p>
<p>I would advice to look to <strong>get a ready cart</strong>. Check locally for used, worn out or reconditioned shopping cart for your project. Maybe even try to rent it somewhere. It would be much easier and quicker then trying to 3d print the cart, even if it is possible to do it within some reduced requirements.</p>
|
2021-02-26T13:19:13.390 | |adhesion|temperature| | <p>I have an Ender 5 pro and upgraded from the magnetic bed to the glass version. I print with Prusament PLA on 65 °C bed temp and 220 °C extruder temp. I measured that the glass surface has ~58 °C in the center and ~56 °C on the corners. That should be in the specs of the spool which has a printed recommendation of 50 +- 10 °C for bed and 215 +- 10 °C for extruder temps.</p>
<p>Now I also have a BLTouch and use the TH3D firmware so Z offsets should work correctly and are done with the Z offset wizard present (nozzle touching the bed).</p>
<p>The problem I currently have is that the first layers have "lifts" in them. Also, it seems that the layer itself is not 0.2 mm everywhere. It's close to 0.23 mm on the edges but on the inner there are variances up to 0.36 mm.</p>
<p>Currently, I slice with Cura 4.8.0 on Standard Quality 0.2 mm</p>
<p>How do I get rid of the lifts and irregularity in the layer? Is it a problem with the bed?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScOMF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScOMF.jpg" alt="Lifts" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmNBR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmNBR.jpg" alt="darker areas are 0.36mm" /></a></p>
| 15748 | Irregular adhesion on Creality glass bed | <p>The only time I've seen lifting, away from the edges of the part like this, is when the bed is contaminated with something which will stop the print sticking, like fingerprints and such.</p>
<p>A thorough wipe-down with IPA on the heated bed is usually enough to stop it.</p>
|
2021-02-28T01:07:19.693 | |3d-models|3d-design|file-formats| | <p>If someone creates a 3D model of a character for 3D printing can I import that model into Unreal engine or Unity 3D for use in a video game? Also is the inverse true? Can I get 3D model of Mario and send that to a 3D printer?</p>
<p>Specifically, it’s more important to know if I can pull a 3D printer model into an unreal game project</p>
| 15757 | Can 3D printer models be used in video game engines and vs versa? | <p>Regarding the second question: "Can I get 3D model of Mario and send that to a 3D printer?" meaning successful print, the answer depends on the model and the printer. Basically you can send any model to print, but each technology has its limitations of quality, size, physics. For figurines, resin printers (SLA or DLP technologies) seem best choice.</p>
<p>Printed figurines would be non-movable and empty inside (to some extent), unless are specifically designed as mechanical toys. I think this is the key difference between mechanical movement ability and modern 3d object animations.</p>
<p>As you already noticed, the mesh files could be reused here or there. So static objects like furniture pieces could be suitable for both purposes.</p>
|
2021-03-01T16:03:20.437 | |resin|part-identification| | <p>I have found a video about Invisalign. I saw a 3D printer in the video but I did not understand its type. Can you help me? Do you share a brief piece of information about its type?</p>
<p>Below is the video on YouTube.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bKsGNrEKx9M?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
| 15771 | What type of 3D printer is this? | <p>In the video, there is this still from <a href="https://youtu.be/bKsGNrEKx9M?t=32" rel="nofollow noreferrer">0:32</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://youtu.be/bKsGNrEKx9M?t=32" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf2F8.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The labeling is iPro 8000, which is a <a href="http://infocenter.3dsystems.com/product-library/sla/ipro-8000-9000" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3dSystems resin printer using SLA technology.</a></p>
|
2021-03-01T16:26:21.943 | |extruder|troubleshooting|underextrusion|stringing| | <p>This is my first 3D printer so I'm not entirely sure what could be the cause of this issue.</p>
<p>I recently got a SUNLU S8 3D printer and have been trying to print the first test file, however, the layers end up stringy (for lack of a better word -- if anyone knows whether this is called something else, I'd appreciate the knowledge because Google searching for stringy layers does not yield similar results).</p>
<p>Anyway, I tried to increase the nozzle temperature from 205 °C to 215 °C and that seems to help slightly (filament is PLA and came with the printer). I also noticed that the extruder's feeder gear is grinding on the filament so I suspect that may be part of the problem.</p>
<p>Before I purchase an extruder kit, I figured I'd reach out and ask this community what they think could be the problem.</p>
<p>Does anyone know what might be causing this issue?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pzyj9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pzyj9.jpg" alt="Stringy first couple layers" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Edit</strong></p>
<p>I cleaned the tubing and nozzle, and then releveled the bed. The filament was still stringy and whispy, however, I decided to let it print for a while. Although the picture is a top-down view, the walls of the print are also holey.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/HQhQQuv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/HQhQQuv.jpg" alt="After Cleaning" /></a></p>
| 15772 | Stringy first layer (possible extruder issue?) | <p>0scar and Trish both had correct solutions to my problem.</p>
<p>0scar suggested that I clean the nozzle, which I thought I had because the needle that came with the printer was able to slide through the hot end and out the nozzle without any issue. Turns out the hot end was clogged though. This particular hot end has a bowden tube that's separate from the actual bowden tube connected to the extruder gear, and that separate tube was clogged.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/AOlT9nf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AOlT9nf.jpg" alt="bowden tube clogged" /></a></p>
<p>Trish was correct about the slicing profile being incorrect and that the problem was under extrusion. The filament provided by Sunlu with the printer seems to be fine. I let the printer run for 25 minutes and only had a slight issue with the filament on the spool not being tight enough when printing the raft. I'm currently running another print and haven't had any issues -- only 15 minutes in.</p>
<p>Anyway, here's the 25 minutes print I was referring to (in the bottom left there's a glob of PLA because that's where the nozzle was when I stopped the print):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/PRCyb40.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/PRCyb40.jpg" alt="successful print" /></a></p>
|
2021-03-01T20:35:48.233 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>I'm trying to get a sequential print going (first time trying this) and Cura won't slice due to build volume issues. From the graphic shown, it looks like this should be sufficiently spaced out but I'm not sure what the problem is. Any tips? I've moved the objects around all over the build volume and it never changes back to "allowable".</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcrXh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lcrXh.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15775 | Cura Sequential Printing | <p>If the height of the object is larger than the free space between the gantry and the top of the first printed object, you will not be able to slice the object. The maximum printing height will reduce to the maximum available distance between the gantry rods and nozzle.</p>
<p>Note that the correct <code>Gantry Height</code> needs to be set in the printer properties. For instance, the UM3 I use has 60 mm free space between the gantry and the nozzle:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKXlJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKXlJ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>If you have a smaller height specified, or a taller print object os depicted in the image below, you will not be able to slice the prints (note that a 100 x100 x100 mm is scaled to 20 x20 x70 mm prints, which exceed the 60 mm):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9Nl4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9Nl4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>When properly scaled below the 60 mm, i.e. to 20 x20 x50 mm print objects, you'll see that you are able to slice the objects:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XH5ZI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XH5ZI.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Slice preview:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihjdb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihjdb.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2021-03-01T22:01:28.157 | |ultimaker-cura|anycubic-chiron| | <p>I printed this <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775702" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Curvy vase</a> from Thingiverse and it came out pretty well on my Chiron.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AP0wQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Curvy vase print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AP0wQ.jpg" alt="Curvy vase print" title="Curvy vase print" /></a></p>
<p>However, I am not happy with the Z-seam that is very large. When I look at other people's problems with this, they often seem to have too little filament at the seam, but I have too much. What setting should I change to make it less visible?</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Anycubic Chiron with Marlin 2.0.7</li>
<li>Material: PLA</li>
<li>Slicer: Cura 4.8.0.</li>
<li>Nozzle: 0.4 mm</li>
</ul>
<p>All Cura settings are <a href="https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/Curvy_Vase.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> (except that I lowered printing temperature to 200 ºC while printing).</p>
<p>All files used and some pictures are <a href="https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<hr />
<p>2021-03-07 <strong>Addendum</strong> after I made 19 test-prints of a small portion of the vase's neck. Below are some of my notes:</p>
<ol start="8">
<li>Combing Mode=All is better than Off</li>
<li>Speed=60 is worse than 40</li>
<li>Retract Before Outer Wall=On is worse than Off</li>
<li>Outer Wall Line Width 0.45 to 0.35 gave a Z-seam on the outside with more build-up</li>
<li>Inner Wall(s) Line Width 0.45 to 0.35. Some places has less contact between layers, so less appealing and less robust. Also less material use.</li>
<li>Outer Wall Wipe Distance 2.0 spread ot the seam (too much), and also made a ditch before the Z-seam (on the outside of the ring).</li>
<li>Coasting tripled to Vol=0.588 and Wipe Distance 5.0 is more appealing. Two changes at once make it impossible to know which one helped. 5 mm is not enough to completely wipe.</li>
<li>50% printing speed improved Z-seam and surface smoothness</li>
</ol>
<p>In the future I will use slower speed for Outer Walls, test Wipe distance=2*Line Width, use Combing (turned Off because of some advice to do so when LIN_ADVANCE is used) and experiment with faster retractions and Z-movement.
Pictures and complete notes are available <a href="https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
| 15776 | How to get less Z-seam? | <p>A bulging seam is caused by a mix of factors, especially:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Material oozing while dwelling too long at the point of layer change (including the time spent in the Z move). This can be mitigated by ramping up the max Z speed and acceleration and/or enabling retract at layer change <em>with a very fast retract and unretract speed</em> (without doing it very fast, the time spent retracting has the same effect as the time spent on Z move).</p>
</li>
<li><p>Excess extrusion due to pressure remaining at the nozzle when decelerating. This can be mitigated by enabling Linear Advance and tuning the K factor for your printer's bowden tube and material properties. A value around 0.5 is probably needed for PLA on your printer. Increasing your acceleration limit to reduce the time spent accelerating/decelerating can also go a long way to mitigate this.</p>
</li>
</ol>
|
2021-03-03T16:50:57.653 | |resin| | <p>I needed to know if typical UV curing resins, such as the ones from Anycubic, can withstand solar radiation over extended periods of time with little to no degradation. It has been quite difficult to find information about the subject online, so I'm wondering whether anyone here has experience here to share.</p>
| 15785 | UV degradation of UV curable resins | <p>Yes, it is actually pretty hard to find that information. First thing is that the resin never stops curing. Additional exposure to UV will continue to degrade the material over time. This is true of even plastics (and human flesh), however, in the case of UV resins we're talking about years not weeks. Each manufacturer of resin, even from different batches, will exhibit different performance characteristics with their formulation. As a general rule of thumb resin prints should not be used as an end product. They are used to either create a mould for the final object or used as a fitness test where the dimensions and tolerances are tight. The cured resin is typically not 100% safe to handle, and as such should not be used on bare skin or inside the human body or as any form of eating or cooking utensil. Colour degradation of resins (they become cloudy) will also occur for resins that were once colourless.</p>
<p>EDIT: (Didn't want to expand this but it seems I have to) Companies that release 3d printed with branded resins have custom formulas to match their printers. This is perhaps to ensure that the customer keeps coming back for the consumables. These custom formulations are most undoubtedly patented, however, it seems that they are keeping the formula a secret (until you reproduce it and they claim you've breached their patent). Due to the fact that the formula is unknown to the end-user no one can certify that the cured resin is 100% non-toxic and safe for contact with skin; either on the outside of the body or the inside ;) Speciality dental adhesives have different formulas (and are perhaps more expensive than) 3d printing resins.</p>
|
2021-03-04T22:52:14.840 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|firmware|maintenance| | <p>I decided to finally purchase an Ender 3 v2. It arrived today and after a few hours of making sure everything is straight, I tried to power it and do a test print...</p>
<p>I was disappointed to see that the screen stays black after more than 10 seconds from power on.</p>
<p>I did not insert any SD card in the printer or anything that could interfere with the presumably stock firmware on it.</p>
<p>Because of this, I opened up the power source and the motherboard case and checked the voltages/checked LEDs. The motherboard blue led is on, the power source green led is on as well. I did a few measurements - I get 24 V to the motherboard with a small spike of 35 V when it starts.</p>
<p>The hotend fan is always on.</p>
<p>I checked the display connection and I am sure it is placed correctly.</p>
<p>I tried to upload firmware onto the mainboard first by clearing the SD card (8 GB given by Creality) using <code>diskpart</code>. I wrote the 4.2.2 (same as motherboard version) firmware version (stock) onto the SD attempting to upload on the mainboard. I tried renaming it, unplugging the power cable, unplugging the screen cable, etc and nothing would work.</p>
<p>I tried rewriting the <code>DWIN_SET</code> files but the screen would not turn to black/blue/orange colors. I tried <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/j04s40/how_to_fix_the_ender_3_v2_firmware_upgrade_black/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">more or less everything suggested here</a>.</p>
<p>Is there anything I didn't do? What do you suggest? I already contacted the company where I bought it from, but I don't want to go through the assembly process twice - maybe I can make it work?</p>
<hr />
<ul>
<li>The correct voltage for the power supply is set at 230 V (Europe) and was set to this all the time. I tried switching it back and forth without power too. No result.</li>
<li>I've contacted the supplier yesterday.</li>
</ul>
| 15796 | Screen stays black on new Ender 3 V2 after power-on | <p>I solved this by having Creality send me a new main board and new screen.</p>
<p>Sorry if you are experiencing this. Please contact Creality. They were happy to also upgrade my main board to v4.2.7!</p>
|
2021-03-05T05:02:39.900 | |creality-ender-3|bltouch|th3d| | <p>I had the BLTouch (3.1) working with stock firmware on an Ender 3 v2 but wanted to get a 5x5 mesh instead of the 3x3 so I installed the TH3D firmware. With the stock firmware my Z-offset was -2.95 mm.</p>
<p>After installing TH3D firmware, my Z-offset has to be in excess of -6 mm to reach the same nozzle-to-bed height. I've tried setting the Z-offset via LCD and through G-code, saving to EEPROM. I'm having 2 problems with this that I assume are connected:</p>
<ol>
<li>Z-offset seems to not be applied when setting Z axis position. When I autohome and then set Z axis to 0, even the extended probe from the BLTouch does not touch the bed (it's actually 1-2 mm away from touching). And this is with the Z-offset set to -6 mm.</li>
<li>I tried running a print, which includes an ABL request (<code>G29</code>), the print head crashed into the bed immediately after finishing levelling. My hunch is that when starting to print the -6 mm Z-offset starts being correctly taken into account.</li>
</ol>
<p>Could this be the result of something I did in the Configuration.h when compiling the firmware?</p>
<p>I made the following changes:</p>
<p><a href="https://github.com/th3dstudio/UnifiedFirmware/blob/2.0.x/Board%20Configuration%20Files/CrealityV42X/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CrealityV42X/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration.h</a></p>
<ul>
<li>Line 24: uncommented <code>#define ENDER3_V2_V422_BOARD</code></li>
<li>Line 43: uncommented <code>#define CUSTOM_PROBE</code></li>
<li>Line 66: changed <code>#define EZABL_POINTS</code> from 3 to 5</li>
<li>Line 124: changed <code>#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET</code> from <code>{ 10, 10, 0}</code> to <code>{ -44, -6, 0 }</code></li>
<li>Line 233: uncommented <code>#define BLTOUCH</code></li>
<li>Line 235: uncommented <code>#define SERVO0_PIN PB0</code></li>
<li>Line 636: commented out <code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN</code></li>
<li>Line 636: added <code>#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING</code></li>
</ul>
<p>In <a href="https://github.com/th3dstudio/UnifiedFirmware/blob/2.0.x/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration_backend.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration_backend.h</a> the only change I made was increasing <code>Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN</code> from -5 to -20.</p>
| 15797 | Z offset not working after flashing TH3D firmware | <p>A friend and I ran into this problem with TH3D and this was the workaround for <strong>our</strong> situation. Pretty sure I know what's causing it, but I haven't had the chance to rebuild the firmware yet to test it.</p>
<p>Autohome, update your bed mesh, either through the menu or via the terminal with <code>G28</code> & <code>G29</code>. Store settings via menu or <code>M500</code> via terminal.</p>
<p>Reboot/power cycle the printer, autohome/<code>G28</code>, and insert <code>M420 S</code> into your print file G-code <strong>after</strong> <code>G28</code>.</p>
<p>Let me know if it works.</p>
|
2021-03-05T19:24:51.967 | |creality-ender-3|bltouch|creality| | <p>I made two updates to my Ender 3 Pro: Silent Mainboard and BLTouch. My printer head is way out of sync now. After I Auto Home, it moves along the X-axis to the left, hits the stop switch & moves back to the right. It does not move at all on the Z-axis and remains 3 - 4" above the bed during and after Auto Homing.</p>
<p>Here's the detail :</p>
<p>I installed a Creality Ender 3 Pro New Upgrade Motherboard Silent Mainboard V4.2.7 with TMC2225 Driver Marlin 2.0.1 & bootloader pre-installed & then a Creality BLTouch 3D Printer Upgraded Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit (the kit that comes from Creality with everything you need to install). I imagine I attempted too many upgrades without verifying the printer worked properly when I did the first upgrade which was the mainboard?</p>
<p>I purchased this Ender 3 Pro back in April 2020. It was working great until I decided to make the upgrades. I assume it came with an 8-bit board but not 100% sure. The new board is 32-bit and not sure what that would negatively impact besides maybe the LCD screen which does work fine after the upgrade.</p>
<p>Here's a video of the printer attempting to Auto Home : </p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/X9S4rvv4lyA?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div><br />
Note: Disregard the unhooked cable under the printer bed in the video. It is totally disconnected and leftover from the BLTouch install.</p>
<p>Here's how I did the upgrade :</p>
<p>First, I simply replaced the new mainboard, and with the mainboard cover and fan back in place, I powered the printer on. The only thing I did here was to verify that the printer would power up ok.
It powered up just fine. The nozzle head did not move I don't think when powered on.</p>
<p>Next, I followed the instructions for the BLTouch that came with the kit. I followed the instructions for the Creality V1 Mainboard 32-bit. Here, I upgraded the firmware via an SD card as suggested. The firmware I upgraded to is the <code>Ender-3 Pro_4.2.7_BLTouch_Marlin2.0.1_V1.1.2_TMC2225.bin</code>.
Finally, I powered on the printer with the BLTouch plugged in and new firmware installed. The BLTouch lights up and the touch sensor clicks out and in and few times.</p>
<p>Now, when I hit auto home the nozzle head moves like I described above & remains in a position that I can not attempt to print from. I attempted to follow step #6 Platform adjustment 32-bit, working through the screenshots in the instructions. This did not work.</p>
<p>If helpful, here are the positions of the nozzle head during the two upgrades :</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Position of the print head before install: 3-4 inches above the bed and maybe a little off-center on the X-axis.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Position after install mainboard upgrade: remained the same as before. I just remember it powering on ok and then I turned it off / unplugged power to start installing the BLTouch.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Position after install of BLTouch: remained the same. BLTouch lights up and the sensor tip moved in and out as if it was checking something or verifying it was working.</p>
<p>I'm a bit lost on this issue. Any help will be greatly appreciated!</p>
<hr />
<p>I'm using 3D4LYF's wiring scheme as I'm using the same set up I believe he is using. The two wires (white & black) on the red connector go in the Z-axis endstop port on the mainboard. For the three wires on the black connector I have: blue=Ground, red=V, yellow=IN that goes in the other 5 pin port on the mainboard. I rearranged the wiring from red/blue/yellow to blue/red/yellow as suggested by 3D4LYF again because I am using the BLTouch Creality Kit. Adding photos of 5-pin port and the connectors:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjHJv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjHJv.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAtyD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAtyD.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15799 | Ender 3 Pro will not auto home correctly after mainboard & BLTouch upgrades | <p>I had the same issue and thought I bricked it, so thank you for getting me on the right path! For Ender 3 Pro v4.2.2 motherboard, no Pinboard A, ISP Pinboard, or Burner required! In my case, I had used the provided pins (white housing) that were on the v4.2.2 motherboard itself.</p>
<p>In doing so I had to switch the positions of the red and blue wires in the 3-pin connector (glad I pay attention to those types of things), connected white and black connectors right beside it as the OP has figured out (the connector my BLTouch came with was a little big so I had to cut a wall of the white housing a little; it fits really well), and re-connected the original Z-axis cable (did not need to remove to start with, but still unused as the BLT pretty much replaces it).</p>
|
2021-03-06T11:28:04.237 | |history| | <p>Comparing trends show that 3D printing stepped over to another level around 2012~2013. Why?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tFj9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tFj9.png" alt="3D printing vs 3D scanning" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N488f.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/N488f.png" alt="3D printer vs 3D scanner" /></a></p>
| 15806 | What happened around 2012~2013 in 3D printing field | <p>Another opinion received:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>That’s the result of MakerBot and others promoting the tech to the general public for the first time after the patents expired. They were just running up stock prices to make a lot of money</p>
</blockquote>
|
2021-03-08T05:49:16.207 | |marlin|z-axis| | <p>I am building a 3D printer from scratch, the bed will only move on Z and the head will stay at the top of the printer and move X and Y.</p>
<p>How do I modify the Marlin firmware to have the bed lower as it prints instead of lift like most printers.</p>
| 15816 | How to setup Marlin to use a moving bed (up-down)? | <p>You can control in Marlin what the direction of the stepper motor is, e.g. my Hypercube CoreXY printer (which has a similar setup like you described) has the following set (in the Marlin <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>Configuration.h</code></a> file) to ensure the platform raises when it has to decrease height:</p>
<pre><code>// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector)
// if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
</code></pre>
<p>Furthermore, it matters where the Z endstop is located, e.g. using a bed probe sensor or a min Z endstop, you need to home towards a decreasing height (in the direction of your probe/endstop):</p>
<pre><code>// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
</code></pre>
<p>Don't forget to set a max Z height that falls within the printer volume, e.g.:</p>
<pre><code>#define Z_MAX_POS 345
</code></pre>
<p>If the bed is heavy, you should also prevent the steppers to lose power when not being used, so at least set Z to <code>false</code>:</p>
<pre><code>// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.
// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!
#define DISABLE_Z false
</code></pre>
|
2021-03-08T17:38:25.180 | |print-quality|fdm|creality-cr-10|x-axis| | <p>This one is turning out to be a real head-scratcher. I'm running a stock Creality CR-10S and there seems to be a single line approx 45° across the print on the X-axis direction.</p>
<p>I have attached images to better explain. Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iI07T.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iI07T.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwS7x.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwS7x.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUoGh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wUoGh.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFAyf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFAyf.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtaYD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtaYD.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15827 | Strange vertical lines on X-axis direction of parts | <p>In your slicer check your z-seam overlap. Lines like that are what happens when a slicer is systematically trying to hide a seam while not adding a ton of time onto the print by adding in a bunch of additional time for travel.</p>
|
2021-03-11T22:43:48.540 | |creality-ender-3|slicing|layer-height| | <p>I'm new to the 3D printing world but I've been using some of the 3D printers at my local library, and am now interested in purchasing my own! One thing that's important for my projects is being able to use variable layer thickness (for example, the first 50 layers are 0.3 mm, the next 50 are 0.1 mm, and the last 50 layers are 0.3 mm).</p>
<p>I know the Prusa printers can do this, but I've been trying to understand whether the Creality Ender 3 allows you to use variable layer thickness. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find this information online so I would like to ask here!</p>
| 15847 | Does the Creality Ender 3 allow variable layer thickness? | <p>Variable layer height is a setting of the slicer, not an ability of the printer itself.</p>
<p>However, the printer must be able to print at such layer heights. Any FDM (Fused deposition modeling
) or FFF (fused filament fabrication) printer, which is the type you describe in the question, is able to print at 0.1 to 0.3 mm with at least a 0.4 mm nozzle diameter.</p>
<p>There is also notion of optimal layer heights. Optimal hight depend on full steps of Z motor correlated with a leadscrew type. It is especially important when microstepping for Z is disabled or when printer disconnects a Z motor during long printing of single layer, otherwise positioning may get imprecise. <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/#optimallayer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa calculator</a> helps to determine these values. For 8 mm/revolution lead of screw (standard T8 in Ender 3) the step for optimal heights would be 0.04 mm.</p>
|
2021-03-13T18:16:21.717 | |resolution|closed-loop|servo| | <p>So I was thinking of using a closed-loop motor in my 3D printer for better accuracy and high-speed printing without losing steps. I have analyzed options available including just tweaking stepper current and firmware changes to prevent step losses but I want to find the best way to do it with encoders. The problem is I need a pretty high resolution for a 3d printer and usually, high-resolution servo motors use potentiometers that are limited and not suitable for a 3d printer. I am thinking of building my own closed-loop continuous rotation servo using stepper/DC motors and encoders but I can't find any high-resolution encoder at a reasonable price. So is there any way to somehow use low-resolution encoders (like 36 pulse every full turn) or is there any encoder type that I can use for better accuracy at a reasonable price other than optical ones? Also is there any other solution for closed-loop systems at a reasonable price?<br />
Note that I am aware that I may need to modify firmware or write my own code for motors and program them from scratch.<br />
<strong>Note:</strong> You might consider this question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12087/closed-loop-stepper-motors">Closed-loop stepper motors</a> a possible duplicate but I have read that and my main problem is not being able to find any cheap high-resolution encoder for this purpose.<br />
<br />
Also for some reason, I can't use products like BTT S42B closed-loop stepper drives, my only option is to build them myself.<br />
<strong>TL;DR:</strong><br />
Is there any type of encoder with high resolution and cheap price for use in 3D printers? (I don't mean brand, I mean technology)</p>
| 15857 | What is the best way to build a closed loop continuous rotation servo for 3D printer? | <p>You can use a magnetic position encoder.</p>
<p><a href="https://ams.com/as0548b" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AS5048B High Resolution Position Sensor</a></p>
<p>14-bit rotary position sensor with digital angle (interface) and PWM output</p>
<p>14 bit means 16k steps/rotation. With a stepper which does 200 steps/rotation and 16x microstepping, you will need only 11 bit, so you have plenty of extra accuracy you can use to filter noise.</p>
<p>You may use <a href="https://ams.com/as5600" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AS5600 Positioning Sensor</a> instead, which is 12 bits, since you don't need to track each microsteps in a closed loop, 4x is enough.</p>
<p>AS5600 in PWM mode does up to 920 Hz, AS5048 1 kHz. I'm not sure in I2C mode but surely more. Of course you have to take into account delay between measuring the position and transmission of the position.</p>
|
2021-03-14T06:32:03.637 | |resolution|closed-loop|servo| | <p>So I was thinking about is it possible to reach higher resolutions with encoders and DC motors? I found a cheap high-resolution magnetic encoder that can be used along with a DC motor to access higher resolutions. The encoder has 8192 PPR meaning that it can measure up to 0.04 degrees if I have correctly calculated. So if for a stepper with 0.9 step angle and no micro-stepping with 20 tooth pulley and 2mm belt, the steps/mm is 10, it means every 9 degrees with this pulley and belt setup makes 1mm and so 0.04 degree makes 0.004mm movement that is about 4 microns. Is this correct and possible? If so, why don't big companies use this method?<br />
Link to the encoder:
<a href="https://www.rls.si/eng/rmb20-rotary-magnetic-module" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RLS RMB20 rotary magnetic encoder module</a></p>
| 15859 | Is it possible to get higher resolutions by using high resolution encoders and custom firmware? | <p>The mistake in your reasoning is assuming no microstepping. Most 3D printers use 16 microsteps, and in my experience with both cheap A4988 drivers and nice TMC2209 drivers, microstepping is quite accurate. As part of <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/12075/11157">an answer to a question I asked</a>, you can see a test print showing single-microstep features. My motors have 1.8° step angle, yielding 3200 steps per rotation at 16 microsteps, or 12.5 microns of linear movement per microstep. With 0.9° step angle you could get it down to half that, and you could probably halve it again going to 32 microsteps.</p>
<p>Even if you can't get it as good as your 4 microns with stepper motors though, at 12.5 micron positioning resolution you're already to the point where extrusion error is going to play a much bigger role in dimensional accuracy than toolhead positioning error does. Going past that with FDM requires high resolution extruder axis movement, closed-loop control with a precise filament diameter sensor, direct drive with minimal distance between the extruder gear and nozzle, etc.</p>
|
2021-03-17T16:41:51.110 | |octoprint| | <p>Can I turn off the web interface (i.e. shutting down my computer) during a print? The Raspberry is online still.</p>
<p>Am I correct to say that G-code has already been uploaded via WiFi to my OctoPi, and so turning off my computer now (web interface) will not disrupt the print?</p>
| 15884 | Can OctoPrint web interface be turned off during a print? | <p>Assuming the OctoPrint server is running on your Raspberry Pi, which is the usual "OctoPi" setup, then yes, once you have uploaded the G-code to OctoPrint, you no longer need to leave the web interface open.</p>
<p>For example, one could upload code from their desktop running the slicing software to OctoPrint, walk to the printer to turn it on, then use a different device (a phone, for example) to connect OctoPrint to the printer and begin the print. At no point does the device accessing the web interface matter. The Raspberry Pi is in control of the printer, not the device that started the print.</p>
|
2021-03-17T20:46:59.507 | |extruder|stepper|motor| | <p>I have a <a href="https://flex3drive.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Flex3Drive</a> remote-direct-drive extruder I bought for my Ender 3 (with the original extruder motor), and I'm pretty happy with it except for abysmal retraction performance due to the 40:1 reduction, which requires the motor to turn about 480° to retract just 1 mm. This is minimally workable for PLA and rigid materials where I can get by with just 1 mm of retraction, but it takes just as long to retract 1 mm as the original bowden extruder did to retract 6 mm, defeating a lot of the appeal of a direct drive. For TPU I haven't been able to make it workable at all. By the time I retract 3 mm or so, which seems necessary to avoid stringing, the hotend has already melted and/or deposited a blob on the print. Failure to print TPU also defeats much of the point of a direct drive.</p>
<p>I'm running retraction at 8 mm/s, 500 mm/s² acceleration, which is already higher than the manufacturer of the extruder recommends, and about the fastest I've been able to get it to work. Based on <a href="https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Stepper-Motor-Calculator.phtml" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this calculator</a> and 8.9 mH motor inductance, that seems roughly expected. I have TMC 2209 steppers and tried playing with current but it doesn't seem to make much difference.</p>
<p>Otherwise, I love this extruder, and want to make it work. Is there a way I can salvage it by changing out the motor for something that can do higher RPMs and accelerate just as fast or faster?</p>
| 15888 | Can I make this extruder work by changing motor? | <p>I was considering buying a Fl3xdrive but had this exact fear, that the speed (rotation) required for retractions was too much.</p>
<p>I stumbled upon this post while looking for a project for a step-up gearbox. I found a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3714978" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Nema 17 Gearbox "Pulleybox" Mod for Extruder</a> on Thingiverse, should be enough to do what you did with your design, I guess.</p>
|
2021-03-18T02:02:33.790 | |bed|m3d| | <p>So basically I've been having a problem with my Micro+.
It will not level / calibrate itself and I can't fix it. The reason I'm here is that I've been using Cura, and somehow it destroyed my bed. (See image)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qe8cA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qe8cA.jpg" alt="print bed for Micro +" /></a></p>
<p>I would like to know how to get it off, as I tried freezing, scraping and sandpaper</p>
<hr />
<p>To clarify some things:</p>
<ul>
<li>The material is PLA,</li>
<li>bed is made of plastic.</li>
</ul>
<p>My build plate surface got destroyed after trying to use Cura, which sliced wrong and engraved the print into my bed.</p>
| 15891 | Options for removing failed prints | <p>You can try putting it in the oven at 100 °C and then peeling it off. At that temperature it's soft as cheese.</p>
|
2021-03-18T14:21:53.377 | |openscad| | <p>I'm trying to make a frame for a lithograph that I plan to 3D print for my wife for Mother's Day. I typically will have my differences be exactly the right size (rather than oversizing it for the sake of the preview) because it gives me a good feel for how accurate my math is (particularly when I'm accounting for the horizontal margin created by the compressed filament coming out of the nozzle).</p>
<p>In this case, however, it came back to bite me. I debugged this issue for quite a while assuming I had miscalculated something or that I had confused my order of rotations somehow.</p>
<p>Eventually, I oversized my cutout and sure enough, the holes appeared correctly. After poking at it, I realized I only need <code>0.000005 mm</code> on either side of my cutout for it to render correctly!</p>
<p>I've created a minimal reproducible example of my issue here:</p>
<pre><code>outerRadius = 100;
height = 40;
wallWidth = 2;
innerRadius = outerRadius - wallWidth / sin(60);
apothem = innerRadius * cos(180 / 6);
// change this to 0 and see what happens!!
holeSizeCorrection = 0.00001;
module holes() {
for (face = [0:5]) {
rotate([0, 0, face * 60 + 30])
translate([apothem - holeSizeCorrection / 2, 0, height / 2])
rotate([0, 90, 0])
cylinder(h = wallWidth + holeSizeCorrection, r = height / 4, $fn = 4);
}
}
color("orange") difference() {
$fn = 6;
cylinder(h = height, r = outerRadius);
translate([0, 0, -height/4]) // because if it's exactly right, you can't see inside
cylinder(h = height * 2, r = innerRadius);
color("blue") holes();
}
</code></pre>
<p>When the holes I'm trying to cut in the polygon are exactly the width of the wall, it renders the preview correctly but the rendered output is incorrect. To verify that the shape was correct, I moved the holes out of the difference and it looks like this:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDbL4.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDbL4.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The preview (aside from the strange exact cut issue that usually happens) is correct as well. But, when I render it, it looks like this:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyS0z.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyS0z.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>But, if I have the hole shape stick out <code>0.000005 mm</code> on either side, it renders just fine!
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljnVX.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljnVX.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Now that I know to look for this kind of thing, it'll probably save me debugging time in the future. :) But, it would be nice to know if I've done something wrong as well.</p>
| 15895 | Why does OpenSCAD fail to cut holes in polygon sides that are exactly the width of the wall? | <p>openSCAD simply allows having surface solutions that result in a wall of 0 thickness. The walls appear to <em>clip</em> in those areas and can at times be seen from both sides, like in your example:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIvMS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIvMS.png" alt="a 0 thickness wall clipping" /></a></p>
<p>A 0 thickness wall is also exportable into an STL as a set of triangles spun up by vertices that are in each other's plane but have inverted normal vectors for the two sides - which means that the construct <em>exists</em> for the computer - and I have used this in 3D designs for a hologram-effect, even if it does not result in a physically possible property set.</p>
<p>An example of that effect is this cube (made in blender), that has the back wall purple, all others are grey - and the internal wall is at the same X-value as the back wall. You see the grey wall clipping <em>despite</em> the normal of it pointing to +X while the normal of the purple wall is into -X.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QLzZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3QLzZ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>By having your <em>cookie-cutter</em> extrude not just to but <em>through</em> the back wall, you force a solution that disallows the 0-surface solution and thus solves the problem of creating those <em>artifact</em> walls.</p>
<p>Note that the 0-surface wall persists in the slicer preview:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kkRNX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kkRNX.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBaSe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBaSe.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>But rest assured: almost all slicers ignore walls that are too thin to be printed, and a 0 thickness wall especially is ignored:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wdmX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wdmX.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2021-03-20T17:01:11.223 | |print-strength|lead-screw|cnc| | <p>I want to build a mini CNC machine and need some lead screws. I was wondering I can simply 3D print some. There are a few 3D models out there but I want to know if printing it in PLA+ has enough strength for a small CNC. Is it possible?</p>
| 15908 | 3D Printed Lead Screw | <p>Expanding on some previous comments which are probably enough to warrant an answer:</p>
<p>What Trish said is completely right. Leadscrews are readily available parts and any dimensional errors in the leadscrews will be reflected in the output of your CNC machine unless you have some sort of compensation for them. Moreover, if the material is not highly rigid, the dimensions are subject to change over time, so any compensation would have to be ongoing manual adjustment or closed-loop rather than a one-time calibration. "PLA+" is an especially bad choice because it usually means PLA that's been modified with additives to make it less brittle, deforming under stress instead of holding its shape until it breaks catastrophically. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAoZCpXoPWo" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CNC Kitchen's video on PLA+</a> elaborates on this.</p>
<p>With that said, if you don't need a high level of precision, or if you're in a situation where you're unable to obtain manufactured components, I think 3D printed leadscrews would work ok if you print them in the XY plane rather than along the Z axis. While nozzle width and discrete layers produce a sort of "stairstep" quantization of printed threads in the Z direction, that doesn't happen with the threads in the XY plane; the nozzle width limits feature resolution (oscillations per unit length) but the positioning of the threads is quantized only to the X and Y (micro)step size, which is typically on the order of 10 microns. Moreover, the strength and rigidity of the part printed in this direction can be very high, due to the offset-layered zigzag structure.</p>
<p>Back to accuracy of the part, though, it's important to note that whatever flaws your printer might have in XY positioning accuracy will be reflected in the resulting leadscrew. This includes <em>non-linear effects</em> such as belt paths being slightly trapezoidal instead of having perfectly colinear points of attachment to the carriage. In general, when manufacturing parts that will affect the accuracy of the resulting machine, you want to use processes that amplify the precision your tooling was manufactured with rather than processes that reproduce or amplify its flaws.</p>
|
2021-03-21T15:23:20.693 | |slicing|prusaslicer| | <p>Being new to 3D printing, I started using Cura (which came with my Ender 3v2) to slice models I found on Thingiverse. I know that there are other slicers and have heard positive things about PrusaSlicer.</p>
<p>I know that settings will have different names, but I am asking more about the setup. What things, settings, etc. should I be aware of when using PrusaSlicer? Will I need to re-calibrate anything in PrusaSlicer?</p>
| 15913 | Trying PrusaSlicer | <p>PrusaSlicer already has pre-tuned profiles for the Ender 3 v2 in the Configuration Assistant. It also has tuned print settings from SUPERDETAIL (0.08 mm layer height) to SUPERDRAFT (0.28 mm layer height) so it shouldn't be too hard to set up.</p>
|
2021-03-21T22:40:06.427 | |build-plate|bed|build-surface| | <p>I have just set up my new 3D printer. However, the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place, but this makes the build plate unlevel, messing up my prints. What are some other ways to prevent the build plate from slipping. I was considering using duct tape, but am not sure whether this would work.</p>
| 15919 | How can you prevent the build plate from slipping? | <p><strong>Build Plate</strong></p>
<p>If your clips aren't holding down your build plate, make sure your nozzle isn't crashing into the plate and moving it. A build surface between the clip and surface or adhesive might help keep the clip from slipping on the top surface. A rubbery gasket material that can withstand you heated bed temperatures, such as the silicon FarO mentions, can keep the bottom of the plate from slipping. This is the most important surface not to slip.</p>
<p>Apparently, Oscar's option is to tape down the edges of the build plate. I have used Kapton tape to cover torn build surfaces. As Oscar mentioned, it is thin enough for the nozzle to pass over. Kapton tape can be a challenge to adhere at high bed temperatures, such as 110 °C. For that option it's probably worth checking the adhesive specs if they vary for different Kapton tapes.</p>
<p>Those two options aren't mutually exclusive and could be used together. You could even put clips over the Kapton tape at higher bed temperatures if it is an issue.</p>
<p><strong>Build Surfaces</strong></p>
<p>PEI sheets are the most common build surfaces and already have an adhesive surface. Kapton tape seems to be the surface most resistant to damage, but a sheet that covers the entire build surface is expensive. Kapton seems to do a better job of releasing PETG. Otherwise, I use Elmer's glue sticks to protect the build surface.</p>
|
2021-03-21T23:27:56.597 | |marlin|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|electronics| | <p>So I have been having an ongoing problem with my printer that I just can't solve. I don't usually ask the questions on stack exchanges until my problem gets unsolvable. Unfortunately like this one</p>
<p><strong>Printer</strong>: Creality Ender 3 V2</p>
<p><strong>Current Board</strong>: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07TFTVTXK" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality v4.2.7 (Silent Motor)</a></p>
<p><strong>Background</strong>: This started when I accidentally fried the T20 chip on the v4.2.2 mainboard when I tried to install the BLTouch incorrectly (I looked at the photo upside down) and and also accidentally pulled the wire out and what I guess is why the T20 chip was fried. I thought at first the PSU was the one causing the trouble at first so I replaced it. Then found the burnt chip and decided to upgrade the board to a v4.2.7. I installed everything correctly according to a video that I found somewhere on YouTube.</p>
<p><strong>Current Problem(s)</strong>: When I turn on the machine the light on the mainboard is on but there is continuous beeping coming from the display with small clicks like a clock every 1 sec. or so. The backlight to the display is on but nothing is shown. I just found with a multimeter that the bed and nozzle terminals give no volts back.</p>
<p><strong>Firmware</strong>: I have tried to update the firmware to the <a href="https://forums.creality3dofficial.com/download/ender-series/ender-3-v2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">official one off of Creality's website</a> and also using the source code for <a href="https://marlinfw.org/meta/download" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin v2.0.7.2</a> with PlatformIO. The tutorial I followed was here: <div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/y87P7K5DTMU?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p><strong>Update [3/24]</strong>: Found that the firmware seems to not flash even after giving the .bin file a different name.</p>
<p><strong>Extra Thoughts</strong>: I currently have no idea what to do. I think I might replace the LCD and its cable. I have only printed a few things and just want to get back to it but I don't want to buy a whole new printer to do so. I feel like I get closer to getting back to it every time I fix something but I'm starting to lose hope that it's just a never ending problem loop. I appreciate any help given.</p>
| 15922 | Ender 3 V2 blank screen and LCD continuous beeping with clicks | <p>I had the constant beeping, black screen issue.</p>
<p>I went to <a href="https://www.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware/firmware?type=2&keyword&system=0&subType=60067926229435d86f60789a&hardware=V4.2.2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality Cloud Firmware for 3D Printers: Ender 3 v2 Mainboard version 4.2.2</a>.</p>
<p>I installed <code>Ender-3 V2-Marlin-2.0.1 - V1.2.1 - Filament</code> because I have the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 board. This is the only firmware that loaded. I then reran all the other compatible firmware and it loaded them fine. But it only fixed itself once I ran the one with <code>- Filament</code>. <strong>No idea why!?!?!</strong> I spent hours and this is what did it.</p>
<p>The site's root is <a href="https://www.crealitycloud.com/software-firmware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality Cloud: Download Creality Firmware and Software</a>.</p>
|
2021-03-23T16:17:56.473 | |troubleshooting|layer-shifting|m3d| | <p>So I recently got an M3D Micro+ and have had 2 years of experience in 3D printing. I've had some issues with the printer and the prints produced and would like to know how I can fix them.</p>
<p>The issues include:</p>
<ul>
<li>Thick layer lines</li>
<li>Bad first layers / adhesion</li>
<li>wobbly extruder head</li>
</ul>
<p>Here is a screenshot of one of the prints:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPmui.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPmui.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The tolerances are also pretty bad. I would like to know recommended settings and such to help me get to actually printing. As of yet, I have not yet gotten a successful print.</p>
| 15932 | What am I doing wrong with my M3D Micro? | <h1>It's not you - it's the printer!</h1>
<p>The M3D Micro is not a very sturdy setup. The X-axis is a single pair of thin rods, hung up on a pair of similarly thin rods in Y and mounted on 3 very thin pillars in Z. While the idea is good, the execution is not particularly well: The rods are too thin and the design is virtually unchanged since 2015 and thus <a href="https://www.tomsguide.com/us/m3d-micro-3d-printer,review-3327.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this review from 2016 still applies</a>. <a href="https://youtu.be/Q_6IURZ1esM" rel="nofollow noreferrer">As does this from 2018:</a></p>
<ul>
<li>The extruder having problems to extrude reliable and steadily was not fixed since <a href="https://uk.pcmag.com/3d-printers/74073/m3d-micro-3d-printer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">at least 2015.</a></li>
<li>The mounting of the motion system is not very sturdy and the system itself is under-designed. This means it is particularly vulnerable to oscillation - which your print shows.
<ul>
<li>The extruder is mounted flexibly on the motion system, which amplifies all those errors. But that is designed for bed leveling - so there is little you can do to gett the needed stiffness</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>The motors are underpowered. This leads especially to trouble with movement accuracy unless you print super slow. And that print you showed shows that you print with more normal print settings for a 2021 machine. This also shows in your print.</li>
<li>If a professional in 2018 can spend 2 days calibrating and get no results with the owner's proprietary slicer, then that slicer is not worth the disk space it uses. If you need to hack Cura to get the proprietary g-code derivate <em>and</em> you need to do that to get even decent prints, it's a bad design.</li>
</ul>
<p>All in all, you might squeak out better prints with a lot of calibration work, but the printer suffers so heavy from the design flaws that it would be a labor of love.</p>
|
2021-03-24T22:46:00.393 | |openscad|blender|meshmixer|tinkercad| | <p>I have an SVG file of a line drawing. When I import it into Tinkercad it generates a 3D version with the width of the lines remaining constant along the Z-axis (as expected). I would like to generate a similar STL but with the line width narrowing for increasing values of Z. (Similar to the Bevel option in some of the Tinkercad Text shapes).</p>
<p>Can anyone point me at a tutorial on how to do this in Tinkercad, Blender, Meshmixer or Open SCAD?</p>
| 15939 | Vary line with Z-axis for imported SVG file | <p>In OpenSCAD you could create a bevel using the minkowski transformation by transforming the curve using tapered shape such as a pyramid or as I do below a tapered cylinder:</p>
<pre><code>minkowski() {
linear_extrude(1)
import("drawing.svg");
cylinder(h = 20, r1 = 10, r2 = 1);
}
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fm0G4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fm0G4.png" alt="Example result in OpenSCAD" /></a></p>
|
2021-03-26T11:08:20.213 | |g-code|bed-leveling|z-probe|knowledgebase|inductive-sensor| | <p>Various methods to scan the top surface exist to improve the bed adhesion to prevent prints to come loose from the bed during printing: e.g. BLTouch and clones or inductive and capacitive sensors/probes.</p>
<p>In order, for the print head, to use this so-called auto-bed leveling (ABL) you need to add the <code>G29</code> command in your start G-code of your slicer.</p>
<p>Is it necessary to call <code>G29</code> before every print?</p>
<hr />
<p><em>The rationale behind this is that scanning the surface takes up some time, certainly on very short prints, it would be great if the surface geometry could be saved.</em></p>
| 15952 | Using auto-bed leveling, do I need to initiate G29 before every print? | <p>No, it is not necessary to call <code>G29</code> before every print to "auto level the bed"<sup> <em>1)</em></sup> provided that:</p>
<ul>
<li>the bed surface has not changed (e.g. large load or force has been exerted on the build platform, leveling screws are accidentally adjusted, a substantial different bed temperature is used causing different thermal stresses, etc.),</li>
<li>the carriage of the hotend is stable (some printers, e.g. the cantilever type, or single side Z lead screw driven printers are more prone to an unstable or level axis), and</li>
<li>the scanned surface geometry is saved in the controller board memory.</li>
</ul>
<p>There are several solutions to solve this. You could manually run the <code>G29</code> command once in a while storing the scanned surface with an <code>M500</code> command to save the mesh to the EEPROM (memory) of the controller board (this can be done from the printer controller display for Marlin operated printers, an interface like a <a href="/q/10573/">terminal</a> or a print server application, or from pre-stored <code>.g</code>/G-code files on an SD card). If you use the SD-card, note that it is possible to <a href="/a/6740/">auto-launch G-code files</a> from the root of the SD-card upon inserting.</p>
<p>Do note to remove the <code>G29</code> command in the start code of the slicer. The <code>G29</code> command needs to be replaced with <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html" rel="noreferrer"><code>M420 S1</code></a> for Marlin firmware operated printers. This command will load the saved mesh at the start of the print from memory. This is especially useful when using a large amount of probing points (e.g. a large bed mesh using a 10 x 10 mesh of 100 probing points, to ensure the mesh is up-to-date, once in a while initiate the scanning sequence to store an updated mesh).</p>
<hr />
<p><sup><em>1)</em></sup> <em>Please note that auto-bed leveling might be confusingly indicating that some magic leveling of the build platform/surface itself is taking place (this is also possible in Marlin when there are multiple Z steppers and lead screws used), but, that is not actually what is meant with this phrasing. The <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16605">process of the auto-bed leveling</a> actually scans the surface of the build surface and compensates the height of the print head/nozzle during a predefined printing height (usually 10 mm, set in the firmware or through G-code: <code>M420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10</code>), during this printing process the nozzle gradually be less and less compensated until there is no compensation and the print nozzle will print parallel to the guide axis (e.g. the X-axis in i3 style printers and X-Y axes in CoreXY kinematics printers.</em></p>
|
2021-03-26T14:42:01.453 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-axis| | <p>I'm new to the 3D printing world and got my first Ender 3 (with the 32-bit controller board).</p>
<p>I have a problem with every single print. I've upgraded to the newest Marlin firmware, did the mesh leveling then started printing and fix the Z bed option in "Tune - Z bed" during the print (so the first layer is perfect). Please note that I save all the data of the mesh before end of the print. Then, when I start the same print again, the nozzle height is wrong. This happens every single print. The strange thing is that I need to adjust the height differently after every print. Like, the first print was -0.055 mm, second print was 0.30 mm, then it was +0.25 mm somehow.</p>
<p>I really like to print without these constant adjustments.</p>
| 15955 | Nozzle height adjusting for every print | <p>Thanks everybody for their help, but apparently it was a slicer/software/gcode (i don't really know :D) issue...</p>
<p>So i just added this line M420 S1 after the G28 command to my Cura printer settings and now the nozzle height is always at the point i set before, no changing every print.</p>
<p>Hope my solve will help somebody who is struggling with this too!</p>
|
2021-03-29T00:01:48.050 | |pla|troubleshooting|biqu-b1| | <p>I have just acquired my first 3D printer, a BIQU B1. Overall I'm quite pleased with the printing results but I'm having minor defects on the Benchy test. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I guess it's related to the overhang and maybe vibrations.</p>
<p>My print settings are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Software: Ultimaker Cura</li>
<li>Temp: 205 °C</li>
<li>Heatbed temp: 60 °C</li>
<li>Height: 0.2 mm</li>
<li>Print speed: 60 mm/s</li>
<li>Travel speed: 150 mm/s</li>
<li>Flow: 94 %</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAFSA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Imperfections in Benchy - front"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAFSA.jpg" alt="Imperfections in Benchy - front" title="Imperfections in Benchy - front" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ob3Za.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Imperfections in Benchy - rear"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ob3Za.jpg" alt="Imperfections in Benchy - rear" title="Imperfections in Benchy - rear" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tYI7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Imperfections in Benchy - side"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tYI7.jpg" alt="Imperfections in Benchy - side" title="Imperfections in Benchy - side" /></a></p>
| 15966 | How to improve this Benchy? BIQU B1 | <p>Code from Celtic's <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16116/4762">answer</a>:</p>
<pre><code># generated by PrusaSlicer 2.3.0+win64 on 2021-04-17 at 15:16:02 UTC
[print:BIQU B1 - Standard]
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 1
avoid_crossing_perimeters_max_detour = 75%
bottom_fill_pattern = monotonic
bottom_solid_layers = 4
bottom_solid_min_thickness = 0
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_angle = 0
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 50
brim_width = 0
clip_multipart_objects = 1
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
complete_objects = 0
default_acceleration = 0
dont_support_bridges = 1
draft_shield = 0
elefant_foot_compensation = 0
ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extrusion_width = 0.4
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = cubic
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0
first_layer_height = 0.28
first_layer_speed = 20
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_label_objects = 0
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_anchor = 600%
infill_anchor_max = 50
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0.48
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_overlap = 30%
infill_speed = 60
inherits =
interface_shells = 0
ironing = 0
ironing_flowrate = 15%
ironing_spacing = 0.1
ironing_speed = 15
ironing_type = top
layer_height = 0.2
max_print_speed = 80
max_volumetric_speed = 0
min_skirt_length = 50
notes =
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 50
perimeters = 4
post_process =
print_settings_id =
raft_layers = 0
resolution = 0
seam_position = aligned
single_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1
skirt_distance = 5
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slice_closing_radius = 0.049
small_perimeter_speed = 40%
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extruder = 1
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 50%
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
support_material = 0
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_auto = 1
support_material_buildplate_only = 0
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_interface_speed = 100%
support_material_pattern = rectilinear
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
support_material_threshold = 0
support_material_with_sheath = 1
support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
thin_walls = 0
threads = 24
top_fill_pattern = monotonic
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 80%
top_solid_layers = 4
top_solid_min_thickness = 0
travel_speed = 150
wipe_tower = 0
wipe_tower_bridging = 10
wipe_tower_no_sparse_layers = 0
wipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0
wipe_tower_width = 60
wipe_tower_x = 180
wipe_tower_y = 140
xy_size_compensation = 0
[filament:BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver]
bed_temperature = 50
bridge_fan_speed = 100
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
compatible_prints =
compatible_prints_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
extrusion_multiplier = 1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 100
filament_colour = #8B8B8B
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 1000
filament_density = 1.3
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = nil
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = ""
filament_soluble = 0
filament_spool_weight = 1000
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PLA
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_vendor = (Unknown)
filament_wipe = nil
first_layer_bed_temperature = 50
first_layer_temperature = 195
full_fan_speed_layer = 4
inherits =
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 100
min_print_speed = 10
slowdown_below_layer_time = 10
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
temperature = 195
[filament:BIQU B1 - PETG]
bed_temperature = 70
bridge_fan_speed = 35
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
compatible_prints =
compatible_prints_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
extrusion_multiplier = 1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 100
filament_colour = #29B2B2
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 0
filament_density = 0
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = 4
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = ""
filament_soluble = 0
filament_spool_weight = 0
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PET
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_vendor = (Unknown)
filament_wipe = nil
first_layer_bed_temperature = 75
first_layer_temperature = 235
full_fan_speed_layer = 0
inherits =
max_fan_speed = 35
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 15
slowdown_below_layer_time = 20
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
temperature = 235
[printer:BIQU B1 (No Z Hop)]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 1
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v1]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 3
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v2]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v3]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 4
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v4]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 4
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v1]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v2]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235 ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7.5
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0.5
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0
[presets]
print = BIQU B1 - Standard
sla_print =
sla_material =
printer = BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)
filament = BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver
</code></pre>
|
2021-03-29T12:24:22.243 | |filament-choice|press-fit| | <p>I am designing some parts that should modular fit together. I am currently exploring a Lego-like design with octagonal holes and cylindrical pins.</p>
<p>I notice that (depending on the amount of clearance) that the fit is initially tight (to the extent that the pieces are very difficult to remove from each other), but that after a few dozen times connecting and disconnecting the parts the fit becomes very loose. I am currently using PLA. With what material would this occur less quickly/is more resistant to this kind of wear?</p>
<p>The sizes of the pins/holes are slightly bigger than Lego (probably similar to Duplo). Don't think that snap-fit would work in that size. Below of a picture of one of the test pieces (this one later printed in PETG).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uePVE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uePVE.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I have an open printer so I prefer materials that don't require me to build an enclosure first. It is a Prusa i3 MK3S: Direct drive; 1.75 mm filament; max temp 300 °C; heat bed max temp 120 °C.</p>
| 15970 | What material best to use for press fit parts? | <p>If you're aiming for a Lego-like snap fit, look at Lego parts to see how they work. Using the right material is important, but using it the right way is at least as important. Lego bricks are made so that the walls and tubes can deform very slightly as the studs of another brick are pushed into the brick.</p>
<p>The walls of the octagonal holes in your part appear to be solid. Perhaps they're not really, and underneath the surface layer there's a lesser amount of infill, but infill can provide a lot of strength, and that solid surface will prevent deformation at the entrance of the hole.</p>
<p>Try removing the solid bottom layers and reducing or eliminating the infill in the part so that the walls of your holes can flex more.</p>
|
2021-03-31T16:17:25.717 | |firmware|ramps-1.4|anycubic-i3-mega| | <p>The thermoresistor on my Anycubic Mega displays nonsense temperatures (e.g. 700 °C), since the resistor in the hotend is working fine the problem is 100 % in the board (Trigorilla RAMPS 1.4). Someone suggested switching the pin of the thermoresistor from <code>T0</code> to <code>T1</code>, so I soldered it this way. Now I have to cook a personalized firmware for making it work. I opened a custom firmware in VSCode but I do not know what parameter I have to change, any idea?</p>
| 15987 | How to change pin of thermo sensor? | <p>If there are 2 slots for temperature measurements, you don't need to solder anything, just plug the thermistor from one into the other and switch pins in the firmware. This board is basically a RAMPS 1.4 board, it includes the <code>pins_RAMPS.h</code> header file, so in order to switch the T0 with the T1 temperature port, you need to change:</p>
<pre><code>//
// Temperature Sensors
//
#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN
#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // Analog Input
#endif
#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN
#define TEMP_1_PIN 15 // Analog Input
#endif
</code></pre>
<p>to:</p>
<pre><code>//
// Temperature Sensors
//
#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN
#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // Analog Input
#endif
#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN
#define TEMP_1_PIN 13 // Analog Input
#endif
</code></pre>
|
2021-04-01T22:55:37.127 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|troubleshooting|stringing| | <p>Suddenly my prints start having small strings and I'm not sure what to do to eliminate them.</p>
<p>I have already tried to clean the filament tube, cleaned up the nozzle, and played with various retraction settings. Nothing seems to work and I still see these small strings.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uweHt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D print showing stringing"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uweHt.jpg" alt="3D print showing stringing" title="3D print showing stringing" /></a></p>
<p>Any idea how I can eliminate it?</p>
| 16005 | Ender 3 - Tiny strings in print | <p>I would say that it <strong>IS</strong> stringing. If you have a Bowden setup, AND you have a different filament, your retraction may need to be tuned! If this is not a Vase Mode (no separate layers, but a continuous stream, these could be because the start/stop point of the layer change is not "fixed"...Check that setting in the slicer! While it looks like missed layer adhesion, it is probably a movement from one stop point of a layer to the start point of the next layer.</p>
|
2021-04-02T10:01:41.570 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>Recently I bought a printer and failed to find Cura 4.8 settings for it (both in application both myself). My printer Zonestar Z6FB</p>
<p>Currently I doubt in:</p>
<ol>
<li>G-code flavor</li>
<li>All printhead settings excluding extruder number (which is obviously 1 in my case)</li>
<li>Start/End G-code</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQt6D.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQt6D.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Add printer image to eye trap someone who also interested</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXFO6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXFO6.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 16009 | Could anyone please provode me settings for Custom FFF for Zonestar Z6FB printer | <p>After some pain, I figured out that if you are a poor Ubuntu/Linux user you should only use the AppImage version of Cura which you can download from <a href="https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura" rel="nofollow noreferrer">official website</a></p>
<p>Next, make the file you downloaded executable <code>chmod +x *.AppImage</code></p>
<p>Next, start it from terminal or by clicking in navigator</p>
<p>Ok, proceed as is and then <strong>Help</strong> ▶ <strong>Show Configuration Folder</strong>.</p>
<p>It will show 2 folders we need <code>~/.local/share/cura/4.8</code></p>
<p>Ok now download <code>ZONESTAR_Cura_Resources.zip</code> from <a href="https://www.jianguoyun.com/p/DZIXy4UQyoP1BxjLstUD" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>
<p>Then copy all files from ZONESTAR_Cura_Resources TO <code>~/.local/share/cura/4.8</code> but remember that directory structure is messed up but can be figured out.</p>
|
2021-04-03T07:46:59.000 | |marlin|g-code| | <p>I have following G-code to prime the nozzle before start of the print.</p>
<pre><code>G28 ; home all axes
G0 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
G0 X30; move to X30
G28 Y; home Y
M420 S1; turn on bed leveling
M109 S220; wait for hotend temperature
G1 E20 F1800; extrude filament 20mm
</code></pre>
<p>The idea is to extrude a strand of filament outside of the bed and then start the print. The strand catches on the bed a tears off. So the ooze does not mess up the first layer.</p>
<p>The problem is that the <code>G1 E20 F1800</code> does not wait for the move to finish and the controller goes to next move immediately. This means the nozzle is going to start the first layer, while spewing filament along the way.</p>
<p>Is there a way to wait for the move to finish?</p>
<p>I have tried <code>M400</code> which seems not to help. I'm using Marlin Firmware.</p>
| 16016 | G-code wait for extrude command to finish | <p>Are you sure the move didn't finish? That would be very unusual, not the way 3D printer firmware normally operates. A new <code>G0</code>/<code>G1</code> move command does not execute until the previous one finishes, whether it's extrude-only, travel-only, or a print move (mix of extrusion and travel).</p>
<p>What's probably happening for you is that the amount of material you're trying to extrude cannot melt and pass through the extruder at the speed you requested. At 1800 mm/min, assuming 1.75 mm diameter filament, you're requesting over 72 mm³ of material (nearly a whole cubic centimeter!) of material to be extruded per second. According to some back-of-the-envelope calculations I just did, It would take more than 300 Watts to continuously raise PLA from room temperature to extrusion temperature at that rate, which is not happening without an <strong>extreme</strong> hotend and power supply.</p>
<p>So, what you're getting is pressure building up between the extruder gear and the hotend (until it starts slipping), causing the material to continue to ooze for some time after the E-axis move finishes, until all the pressure subsides. If your goal is to prime the nozzle for printing, this is not how to do it. It will just end up oozing material all over the start of your print.</p>
<p>You can somewhat fix this by just reducing the feedrate in your command, but that's still not necessarily going to give you great results. The right way to prime is to extrude at nearly the maximum <strong>rate your hotend can handle</strong>, then <strong>retract and wipe</strong> before traveling to where the print will begin.</p>
|
2021-04-03T08:45:19.673 | |creality-ender-3|g-code|bltouch|z-probe| | <p>In slicer G-code is it possible to set the probe Z offset for the first layer only?</p>
<p>For my stock E3 plate I find -4.125 mm best however for glass I need to go to -4.175 mm for the first layer to get better adhesion. So it's a manual process every time. Any way to tell the slicer do the first layer at -4.175 mm and next ones at -4.125 mm?</p>
| 16017 | First layer Z-offset in G-code | <p>Trying to change the Z level (NOT the offset) during a print isn't a good idea UNLESS you know that all future moves will be "relative".</p>
<p>The <code>M206</code> (if you use Marlin) is the right way to set it! Depending on the slicer, just create TWO "different" printer definitions and add them to the startup G-codes.</p>
<p>If you don't save it, a reset will return the z-offset to the "saved" value. Or consider resetting to a "standard" value in the ending G-code.</p>
<p>Also, consider using "baby-stepping" (if you can), and manually adjusting things at the start of a print with a different surface.</p>
|
2021-04-03T10:50:48.707 | |troubleshooting|filament|flashforge-adventurer-3|change-filament| | <p>My sample filament has just ran out. Luckilly, I've already bought more filament. The only problem I have is that the spool for the new filament won't fit inside my 3D printer. The filament itself works with my printer; it's just the spool that is the problem. Does anyone have any solutions for what to do if a filament spool won't fit in your 3D printer? For reference, I have the FlashForge Adventurer 3.</p>
| 16019 | What to do if filament spool won't fit in 3D printer | <p>A spool does not need to be inside a printer. Or on. Or even next to.</p>
<p>My Ender 3 pulls his filament in from the rack above it, my TronXY X1 pulls it from about 80 cm to the left of it, where it hangs from a shelf.</p>
<p>When making a solution that pulls in filament from afar, it is necessary to make sure the path is unobstructed and works for the whole movement range of the printer without getting bent sharply, as that can snap or kink the filament.</p>
<p>In the case of the small printer you have, leave open or remove the door to the filament chamber and make sure to place the spool holder so it drags in the filament straight. There are even spool holders designed <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3163417" rel="nofollow noreferrer">specifically for this printer</a>.</p>
<p>There are many designs of spool holders out there, many of them free and with minimal assembly.</p>
<h2>RE-spooling</h2>
<p>Some printers, especially ones that only take marked rolls, might need their spool cores re-filled. In that case, you need to take utmost care: re-filling a spool needs to be without any twist to the filament or you risk entangling, and you need to make sure to not kink or bend the filament in doing so, or risk breaking at those spots.</p>
<p>Due to the risks involved, this should be avoided whenever possible!</p>
|
2021-04-03T22:50:13.897 | |filament|change-filament|flashforge-adventurer-3|flashforge| | <p>I have a FlashForge Adventurer 3. I have just finished my sample filament today and tried to replace it with a new spool of filament. This new filament is by Hatchbox, instead of FlashForge. Besides that, the new filament is 1.75 mm PLA filament, like the sample spool. However, when I tried to insert the new filament, it doesn't feed in. I get a loud, thumping sound from the printer, but the filament doesn't get fed through. Does anyone know why this is happening or what I should do?</p>
| 16025 | Unable to load new filament FlashForge Adventurer 3 | <p>First thing I'd try is making sure the nozzle is hot enough and carefully try to feed the new filament where it will be pushed - sometimes there's melted filament that just isn't hot enough to flow out and the new filament is pushing on it, jamming and making your motor make that sound. Usually getting it hot to the point where the old filament is practically dripping out before attempting to insert the new filament will work.</p>
<p>If that doesn't work I might let the thing cool, disassemble the nozzle, and remove the jam mechanically (and reassemble it).</p>
|
2021-04-04T20:13:46.087 | |3d-design|software| | <p>I've used TinkerCAD (<a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tinkercad.com/</a>) and was able to easily model objects for 3D printing, despite having no prior experience in 3D modeling.
However it needs to be connected to the internet to work, which is not always available at my location.
At minimum, I need an ability to create solid shapes and holes, and with resize, align and rotate options.</p>
<p>Is there an equivalent program that's free, with a similar intuitive interface as TinkerCAD, and works completely offline?</p>
| 16031 | Recommendation for free, intuitive offline 3D modeling software for 3D printing | <p>From trying out several alternatives (Fusion 360, Wings 3D, Blender, and others), the closest free offline equivalent to TinkerCAD turned out to be OpenSCAD.</p>
<p>It has nowhere near the same level of intuition,
but based on info from two tutorials ("<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTCu2hCuqfg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenSCAD Tutorial - Beginners Quickstart</a>", "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSqpdPrJAqg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenSCAD - Model a Bearing in less than ten minutes.</a>"), OpenSCAD was able to fulfill the minimum requirements that were needed from TinkerCAD most quickly, i.e.,"<em>...ability to create solid shapes and holes, and with resize, align and rotate options</em>"</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fo3py.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fo3py.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2021-04-07T12:24:10.323 | |creality-ender-3|extruder|hotend| | <p>Long story for hopefully a simple yes/no answer:</p>
<p>I have a lightly modified Ender 3 Pro (BLTouch, glass bed, beefier bed springs and nobs, led lights) and I daydream about someday getting an "Ender Extender" kit to go larger or something, but before I ever do that I need to drastically speed up the prints. Last night the first layer on one of my prints took 40 minutes and I watched the whole time to make sure it laid down well. Can't imagine waiting around with a larger build surface. I understand basic settings like lighter infill/less perimeters/etc... but when it comes to really changing the speed and acceleration settings I'm a bit of a newb.</p>
<p>So after reading <a href="https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/quick-tip-how-to-3d-print-faster" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> article on improving print speeds, it seems like the Bowden tube style default extruder on my Ender 3 probably doesn't have the grip strength and/or constrained filament path to really push filament faster.</p>
<p>Based on that same article and <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-all-metal-hot-end-upgrade-what-to-consider-2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>, it seems like there are a lot of options for extruders and hotends to upgrade. The reason the Micro Swiss appealed to me is that it seems like this option is pretty much bolt-on plug and play (additional info <a href="https://cerkit.com/2020/07/04/installing-the-microswiss-direct-drive-on-my-ender-3-pro/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>).</p>
<p>And it seems like it already has a convenient spot for my BLTouch.</p>
<p>Which brings me to the title of my question: <strong>will that Micro Swiss extruder/hotend combo do what I think it'll do? i.e. allow me to push filament faster and heat it up quicker?</strong></p>
<p>Is there a better alternative extruder/hotend that is also pretty easy to figure out?</p>
<p>Lastly (maybe this should be a different question/too open-ended) are there other relatively simple upgrades/modifications to the Ender 3 Pro that will help it print faster?</p>
| 16044 | Will a Micro Swiss extruder and hotend speed up prints on my Ender 3 Pro? | <p>If you want a single word answer, then no.</p>
<p>Before you ask this question you need to figure out <em>why</em> your prints are slower than you want them to be. With default settings, unless your models are something dead simple like a big cube or cylinder, you're almost certainly limited by <em>acceleration</em>, not extrusion rate or even max print/travel speed (which you'll almost never achieve). Gcode analysis tools like <a href="https://gcodeanalyser.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">gcodeanalyser.com</a> will help you gauge this by predicting actual speeds the printer will achieve. Note that even if your model is simple, printing infill and top/bottom layers involves <em>a lot</em> of acceleration/deceleration cycles, so even for simple models this may still be your limiting factor.</p>
<p>Until you reach very high accelerations (over 5000 mm/s²) letting you actually achieve very high speeds (over 150 mm/s or so), the only way to make extrusion your limiting factor is by using really thick layers or wide walls. At 0.2 mm layer height and 0.4 mm line width, even a sustained 150 mm/s is only 12 mm³/s volumetric extrusion rate which is high but reportedly within the capabilities of the stock Ender 3 extruder and hotend (but probably requires cranking up the temperature).</p>
|
2021-04-09T17:59:05.883 | |prusa-i3|prusa-mmu| | <p>I have a Prusa MK3s MMU2s which I was running a 7-hour print job on.</p>
<p>It had two spools of filament in, a blue one (primary, very little left) and a gold one (secondary, quite a lot left). It ran out of blue filament approximately 75% through the print job and rather than simply using the remainder of the blue and switching to the gold, the blue was bent and caught on the output nozzle of my spool container. It says that:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>MMU needs user attention, fix issue then press button on MMU unit.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I have fixed the issue (snipped the bent part of the blue filament), however, I can't figure out how to make it continue printing. After fiddling a little bit, the red and green lights are all flashing, but no matter what MMU buttons I press, it doesn't continue printing. How should I fix this without cancelling the print job?</p>
| 16061 | How to unload filament without cancelling print | <p>This condition is covered in the MMU2S manual's section on troubleshooting:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>13.4 All five LEDs blinking red and green</p>
<p>MMU2S unit can now deal with a state in which the Trinamic drivers were not able to provide enough power for steppers. A possible cause can be a broken MMU2S power supply wiring, connectors etc. Please check that all connectors are properly plugged into the MMU2S board and make sure that the cables are in good condition. Also, make sure that the screws on the Einsy terminal box for the power cables are properly tightened. If this state is detected, the MMU2S unit rehomes and automatically continues printing. If the problem occurs three times in a row, the MMU2S unit stops printing and starts flashing continuously with red and green LEDs. Printing can be restored by restarting MMU2S unit using the button on the right side of MMU2S unit.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>So, once you have fixed the problem which prevented the filament from moving, press the reset button on the MMU2S. It is recessed, so you will need a tool to push it (such as the 2.5 mm Allen key included with the printer). You will then need to wait a few seconds for the MMU2 to complete its reboot and be ready to communicate, before telling the printer to continue.</p>
<p>Note that the filament may have been chewed by the MMU2 or extruder drive gears and unable to feed properly. Be prepared to — if you haven't already — disassemble the tubing and manually pull out the remaining filament sections. I find <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233579" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this modified holder for the MMU2's filament tubes that uses push-in couplings instead of a clamp</a> very useful to allow quick access when there's a problem or even when inserting new filament.</p>
|
2021-04-10T08:39:04.950 | |prusa-i3|prusa-i3-rework|wire-type| | <p>I am looking for a way to easily separate the wires between the power supply and the Einsy board of my Prusa Mk 3S+ with a connector. The power supply delivers 10 A at 24 V.</p>
<p>I thought about a <a href="https://www.jst.com/products/wire-to-wire/yl-connector/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">YL wire-to-wire electrical connector</a> as it can handle up to 7 A at 300 V. This should be enough since the two cables share the total load.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOMTO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WOMTO.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The 6 cables (4 power cables & 2 PSU power panic cables) have different diameters. Is it better to use one connector (6 pin) or two connectors (4 pin, 2 pin)?</p>
| 16065 | Which connector should I use between the power supply and the Einsy board? | <p>You could use XT30 or XT60 connectors to sepparate the PSU from the Einsy. I have done it myself a few years ago on 4 Prusa's and it is working great. But I've only got the +/- cables, no power panic though.</p>
|
2021-04-10T14:31:51.667 | |creality-ender-3|adhesion|underextrusion| | <p>I have bought an Ender 3 Pro in November. I loved 3D printing and even upgraded my machine to improve my experience. However, lately, I can't print anything due to an issue I can't seem to resolve.</p>
<p>I will provide as many details as I can in an orderly fashion.</p>
<ol>
<li><p>My machine: Ender 3 Pro w/ BLTouch clone installed. Running Marlin's latest bugfix branch. Also has a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint built into the PSU so I can control both the Power and functionalities of the printer. I have a glass bed, red aluminum extruder.</p>
</li>
<li><p>My settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>Printing with PLA;</li>
<li>Hot end at 200 °C;</li>
<li>Bed is at 70 °C;</li>
<li>ABL is on;</li>
<li>Nozzle: 0.4 mm;</li>
<li>Layer height: 0.2 mm;</li>
<li>Slicer: CURA</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><p>The issue: While the first layer is printing, the filament bunches up around the nozzle and if it somehow touches the bed (like I reduce the Probe-Z offset) it doesn't stick and drags on a few mm. It eventually sticks and keeps printing fine for long straight lines but it's impossible to print a little circle inside, for example. The small details aren't printed on the bed, the filament just bunches up around the nozzle.</p>
<p>Also when I do a cold pull(heat up to 200 °C then pull at 90 °C, the tip of the filament looks like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMiDO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Image of the tip of the filament"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IMiDO.jpg" alt="Image of the tip of the filament" title="Image of the tip of the filament" /></a></p>
</li>
<li><p>I have tried the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>e-step calibration</li>
<li>PID Autotune</li>
<li>Lowering/increasing temp (210-190 °C)</li>
<li>Lowering/increasing first layer speed (+/- 10-25 %)</li>
<li>Changing the heat block and the throat tube (twice)</li>
<li>Taking the entire hot end apart and cleaning it and changing the nozzle (even re-cutting the PTFE tube) multiple times</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ol>
<p>My theory is that the heat traveling up the cold block thins out the filament, causing under extrusion. The filament can't properly stick to the bed because it's too thin. But the hot end fan works. Should I still replace it?</p>
<p>Or is my problem something completely different?</p>
| 16067 | Can't print anything! Is this heat creep? (Detailed explanation & Photo) | <p>This sounds like nothing but a bed leveling (distance from nozzle to bed) problem, though you may have introduced other problems disassembling the hotend. It's normal to have material oozing and bunching up before the print starts; this is why you start printing with a priming line or skirt.</p>
<p>Clean the bed well with isopropyl alcohol, level it (paper method at Z=0 or feeler gauges at Z=0.1, I prefer the latter), then fine tune with a leveling test print. If you're still having problems make sure the PTFE tube is tensioned against the nozzle right inside the hotend. Having any gap will make for all sorts of problems.</p>
|
2021-04-11T20:56:16.700 | |marlin|bed-leveling|ramps-1.4|bltouch| | <p>My printer uses an ATMega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 shield, A4988 stepper drivers and a 2004 controller LCD interface. The PSU is 360 W (12 V, 30 A).</p>
<p>I bought a BLTouch for my printer, but when installing, Marlin is restarting and is unable to complete the boot.</p>
<p>I realized that this problem happens when it is being powered only by the PSU. When it is started by USB, it works normally.</p>
<p>Note, the USB + PSU combination, when the system (Marlin) has been started by USB, also works normally.</p>
<p>I tried to configure the servo in other positions (0, 1, 2 or 3), but the results were the same:</p>
<ul>
<li>USB starts = Ok</li>
<li>PSU starts = infinite restart</li>
</ul>
<p>Another possibility that I tested, was to change the BLTouch for a SG90 micro servo, to check if it was not a problem in the equipment. The result was the same:</p>
<ul>
<li>USB starts = Ok</li>
<li>PSU starts = infinite restart</li>
</ul>
<p>In fact there seems to be some problem between ATMega 2560 and the RAMPS 1.4, when powered by the PSU.</p>
<p>Does anyone know how to solve the problem?
In the last case, would the exchange of ATMega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 be the solution?</p>
| 16077 | Marlin is restarting when pins 5 Vcc are enabled and has a servo motor connected (RAMPS 1.4) | <p>PSU is only feeding 12 V into RAMPS, but (if I remember correctly) RAMPS is using Arduino's onboard regulator for converting 12 V to 5 V. That regulator can not provide much power.</p>
<p>If you connect some significant load to any 5 V pin (like servo, LCD backlight, or BLTouch), the regulator will be overloaded and its output voltage will drop (too low or unstable voltage will prevent Arduino from running correctly).</p>
<p>You can prove this hypothesis by measuring the voltage on any 5 V pin when Arduino is in "infinite restart". It will likely be far below 5 V.</p>
<p>Connecting USB helps because it provides additional power for 5 V rail (but you may be overloading the computer's USB port by doing this).</p>
<p>The solution is to get an external 12 V to 5 V regulator (with enough power, something like 3 A should be ok) and connect it between PSU and some 5 V pin on RAMPS. (Or get PSU that has both 12 V and 5 V output)</p>
<p>If you get an external 5 V supply, it may be a good idea to then completely disconnect RAMPS from Arduino's 5 V regulator. Have a look at <a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,799595" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,799595</a></p>
<p>Also, the regulator on the Arduino board will likely be overheating and may get damaged (But regulators usually have some overcurrent protection so it probably will be OK)</p>
<p>The regulator is located somewhere near the power connector on the Arduino Mega board, Google "AMS1117" if you don't know how it looks. Replacement is possible with intermediate soldering skills. The regulator is only used when powering Arduino from power connector or Vin pin (RAMPS uses the Vin pin). If powered from USB or 5 V pin, it can run without it.</p>
|
2021-04-16T02:32:46.070 | |hotend|wiring| | <p>I recently bought a Titan Aero hot end which came with a 24 V 30 W heater cartridge from E3D. I'd like to use this but the cable length is only 1 meter long and I need it to be 2 meters. The ends terminate with prong connections and there is no polarity to the prongs. How can I safely extend the leads one meter and then connect to my Duet 3 Mainboard 6HC?</p>
<p>Should the cable terminate with a JST connector instead of the prongs to connect to the Duet board?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVTbP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVTbP.jpg" alt="heater cartridge" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bucyV.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bucyV.jpg" alt="duet" /></a></p>
| 16103 | Heater cartridge extension wiring | <p>1 meter puts you far enough away from the heater than you don't need high temperature wiring to extend it. The larger the guage(e.g. 20 guage) the less resistance you will add to the heater circuit. This doesn't matter as long as you can still achieve your maximum temperature (if you can still achieve the same current without maxing out your voltage on the heater).</p>
<p>Your sensor is where added series resistance is critical. Series resistance to the thermistor will give a negative error in the temperature.</p>
|
2021-04-16T20:02:02.580 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|z-axis| | <p>I'm new to 3D printing, I just bought an Ender 3 V2 and I am having a lot of trouble with bed adhesion. After a lot of playing around it seems that the base value for Z is changing for every print.</p>
<p>I have been using <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3771049" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Z-offset test</a> model, dialing in my Z-offset during the print until I hit an acceptable value (eg. -0.15)</p>
<p>If I then print the same model again, using the value I found above, it is way off again, and I have to dial it further down to maybe -0.40 and, if I repeat again, to 80.</p>
<p>I have, of course, tried leveling my bed multiple times</p>
<p>I've just been scribbling down numbers and seeing them fail for two days now, so any help is much appreciated.</p>
| 16109 | Ender 3 V2 Z-axis base value changes for each print | <p>After tightening the screws on the X-axis gantry and doing the bed leveling and test prints again it seems to have gotten better.</p>
<p>Also, while I was under the impression that the V2's heated glass bed <em>should</em> work well without adhesive, I applied a bit of glue stick and now my first print seems to have a perfect first layer.</p>
<p>I may just have been confused because I needed to turn the Z-offset way down to get it to stick in the first place, and then tweaked it upwards to get nice lines, meaning I would have to dial it back down on next test print and so forth.</p>
|
2021-04-17T12:11:52.057 | |marlin|diy-3d-printer|homing| | <p>My custom 3D printer prints everything inverted. I guess this is a homing problem as the motor moves in correct direction.</p>
<p>In Pronterface,</p>
<ul>
<li>if I press -Y — bed moves forward (towards the Y endstop)</li>
<li>if I press +Y — bed moves backward (away from Y endstop)</li>
<li>if I press -X — hotend moves left (towards the X endstop)</li>
<li>if I press +X — hotend moves right (away from the X endstop)</li>
</ul>
<p>on RAMPS 1.4:</p>
<ul>
<li>X endstop is connected on the 1st pin</li>
<li>Y endstop is connected on the 3rd pin</li>
<li>Z endstop is connected on the 5th pin</li>
</ul>
<p>(Pin 2, 4 & 6 are not used (are these for MAX_ENDSTOP ?))</p>
<p>Below is my Marlin config</p>
<pre><code>#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
</code></pre>
<p>I have attached 3 photographs.</p>
<ol>
<li>Shows the Home position of hotend. Y Motor on back and Y endstop at front.</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Gcr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Gcr.jpg" alt="Home position of hotend" /></a></p>
<ol start="2">
<li>Shows inverted print.</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SRBZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9SRBZ.jpg" alt="inverted print" /></a></p>
<ol start="3">
<li>Pronterface screenshot (shows actual G-code file)</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ru5r.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ru5r.jpg" alt="Pronterface screenshot" /></a></p>
<p>I tried flipping the motor cables, but that inverts the motor direction
I also tried INVERT_Y_DIR true, but no luck.</p>
<p>Please help me. What am I doing wrong?</p>
| 16113 | Prints are mirrored in X-axis and inverted in Y-axis direction | <p>Instead of changing firmware or changing the wiring, I flipped the motor direction. See the first photo below. Motor shaft was on the right side, now, the motor shaft is on left side, so the the bed moves backwards. I moved the Y endstop to back and now it prints fine.</p>
<p>only the problem is</p>
<p>In Pronterface,</p>
<pre><code>if I press -Y -- bed moves backward (towards the Y endstop - new position)
if I press +Y -- bed moves forward (away from Y endstop - new position)
--- is this normal ?
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXX1m.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXX1m.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2021-04-17T14:32:54.670 | |petg|medical| | <p>There is a material called PETG. In addition, there is a medical solution called Clear Aligner to fix perplexed teeth.</p>
<p>Can I use a 3D printer using PETG and make transparent apparatus?</p>
<p>The program I use gives transparent apparatus, 3-dimensional output in STL format. Do I get results if I send the STL file to the printer?</p>
| 16115 | PETG and Clear Aligner? | <h1>No</h1>
<p>PETG is a material that can only be used in FDM machines. This precludes any internal medical use, as FDM prints can't be made sterile or even hygienic - the sterilization processes would destroy the print, and FDM layers create many spots for germs to grow. Atop that, you can't get the needed precision with FDM - which means any FDM prints are at best <em>waste</em> at worst <strong>endangering the patient</strong>!</p>
<p>In contrast, 3D printed metals and laser-printed nylon <em>can</em> be created and post-processed in ways that do not have layer lines. Resin prints do <em>not</em> have layer lines that offer these discrete hiding spots for germs. They all are made in a fashion that kills germs or disallows them from being embedded and they can be properly sterilized or made hygienic.</p>
<h1>No!</h1>
<p>PETG can't be printed completely clear in FDM. By the processing method, air and layer boundaries are included, making prints at least somewhat opaque.</p>
<p>Only Resin prints can be fully transparent as they contain neither boundaries nor air.</p>
<h1>NO!!!</h1>
<p>STL files contain only surface data and need to be processed into printer readable format. G-code is one of those formats, commonly used in FDM machines and CNC machines.</p>
<p>The processing from STL or other surface data into FDM-3D-printer G-code is done by a program called a slicer. Examples are Cura, PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, and many others.</p>
<p>Resin printers using DLP use different slicers that create images of the model's crossections together with some sort of machine code for the movement. For SLA machines, the code is entirely different again.</p>
<h1>Further Reading</h1>
<p>I highly suggest you read <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/dental-3d-printing-guide/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">more about 3D printing dental applications</a> before trying anything for dental use, and especially <strong>anything</strong> that is printed for any medical application!</p>
|
2021-04-18T07:12:53.433 | |3d-design| | <p>I am new to 3D Printing and I have taken up a summer project. The project requires a fan 3D Printed, If I use a normal fan the airflow will make my project (i.e. a air-propelled car) go backward. Can we modify a fan so that when the fans spin my car goes forward? If yes, how?</p>
| 16124 | How can we control the airflow in a fan which can be 3D printed? | <p>Look at your fan: it spins in one direction, and the blades push the air from one air to the other side. In fact, the fan is nothing but a propeller! There are ways <a href="https://medium.com/@SimScale/how-to-optimize-a-propeller-design-c724329f97e" rel="nofollow noreferrer">to optimize them</a>. The Rotation goes for example clockwise, the leading edge <em>grabs</em> the air and the trailing edge <em>releases</em> it on the other side, and if the leading edge is towards you, then the air is pushed away. In the simplest way, it would suffice to physically flip the fan around.</p>
<p>A 3D printed new fan would need to have the whole geometry of the fan blades "flipped" (mirrored around a non-rotational axis). Now the leading edge of the fan is away from you, the trailing edge on your side, the airstream is again from the leading to the trailing edge, and the air comes out on your side.</p>
<h1>cave!</h1>
<p>Not all fans can be made to reverse the airflow by flipping the fan geometry: Radial fans just because less efficient.</p>
<p>Other fans can be made spinning backwards by swapping the polarity, but others use a simple diode setup and always spin their way. Also note that fans spinning backwards often suffer from reduced efficiency, as the blade geometry is optimized for one direction of spinning.</p>
|
2021-04-19T11:44:08.293 | |3d-models|blender|freecad| | <p>Let's say I've made a 3D scan of my face and managed to get that into FreeCAD. How might I then create an object (it's a mask, okay?) that conforms to the shape of my face, with a given thickness, such that I can export and 3D-print that part only?</p>
<p>So if I printed it, it would fit over my face, but still look like my face from the outside, too. It would be, say, 3mm thickness througout.</p>
<p>To be clear, I'm not looking to make a 3D model of my head (the world does not need such a thing), or 3D model of a mold that I can use to replicate my head. I just want to make parts that conform to the shape of other, complex, parts.</p>
| 16130 | Creating a 3D modelled "mold over" an imported object | <p>Instead of using FreeCAD, I would import the mesh data into a vertex-based 3D modeling software, such as blender.</p>
<p>After stitching the model in any areas where you still have gaps, you remove any vertex belonging to areas you do not want to use for the mask. This leaves you with pretty much a skin-tight base for your mask. Select all the remaining surfaces and scale <code>S</code> them in all directions in regards to the origin so you create a little airgap 5% extra (<code>1.05</code>) should create enough space to sit somewhat comfortably, but you might prefer a little more. As a stand-in for the face, I use this approximation of a forehead...</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZUJ6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZUJ6.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Next, we thicken that surface using the modifier menu: Select the <a href="https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/modeling/modifiers/generate/solidify.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Solidify modifier</a> and set a <code>thickness</code> that looks good to you and that might be printable. Then make sure it pushes <em>away</em> from where your face is. Also make sure the Offset is at <code>1</code> or <code>-1</code> to ensure that it does not stick out from the face-scan surface to the back!
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5sBk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5sBk.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Now you got a perfect base to model on the outside of using the sculpt features while retaining the inner surface! Do yourself a favor though: print at least part of this model as a test fit and adjust the mask as needed.</p>
|
2021-04-20T01:33:35.120 | |marlin|stepper-driver| | <p>I just replaced the board on my Creality CR-10 with a 32-bit SKR Mini E3 V2.0 control board that runs Marlin 2.0. With the new control board, the printer's Y-Axis moves vibrate so much that it blurs the camera I am using that is connected to the bed.</p>
<p>I have checked the mechanical stuff and it seems like the issue is the stepper motors are running choppily instead of smoothly.</p>
<p>I know that 32-bit Marlin has lots of things I can tweak. Are there settings I should be checking? Where do I start?</p>
| 16137 | Printer shaking - Marlin 2.0 | <p>The problem turned out to be mechanical. The arm that I mounted the camera on had developed a crack where it connects to the build platform. I used some superglue to repair the crack and the camera shaking went away.</p>
<p>The lesson here is to check EVERYTHING mechanical before trying to blame shaking on the firmware.</p>
|
2021-04-23T01:59:38.850 | |3d-design|mechanics| | <p>I was wondering the other day why don't all three motors move at the same time? Don't normal paper printers move 2 motors at a time? they're 2D printers. It makes sense if a 3D printer really does print with <em>all</em> three motors moving. Won't it also be more efficient if they do 3D print in all axes?</p>
| 16163 | Is 3D printing really just 2D printing? Because only 2 motors move per layer | <blockquote>
<p>I was wondering the other day why don't all three motors move at the same time?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>That is perfectly possible for most printers (with limitations, "3D Printing" with all steppers being used is called "non-planar" printing), but there are some major cons you need to deal with. First, there are not that many software suites that slice objects perfectly well like the "normal" per "fixed/variable layer height" slicing as the slicers are under developed. Second, it requires a specific tall and slender nozzle/print head, else the height of printing is very limited. Last, besides generally not being useful for rectangular prints (except for 90° overhanging structures<sup>1)</sup>), this method is only/best suitable for curved objects as the top layer will follow the contours of the object.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It makes sense if a 3D printer really does print with all three motors moving.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>No, it does not make sense, the essentials of 3D printing it that it produces a 3D object, not that all stepper motors should be running simultaneously.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Won't it also be more efficient if they do 3D print in all axes?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Not necessarily, there are limitations to non-planar printing like geometry and print quality, but, you could (in some cases) print with less support material.</p>
<hr />
<p><sup>1)</sup> : From <a href="https://xyzdims.com/2021/03/03/3d-printing-90-overhangs-without-support-structure-with-non-planar-slicing-on-3-axis-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Rene K. Mueller, published March 3, 2021, https://xyzdims.com</a>:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaJm0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaJm0.png" alt="Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced" title="Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Liiiw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Liiiw.png" alt="Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced" title="Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced" /></a></p>
<p><em>Note that these are <strong>demonstration</strong> pieces, normally you would rotate the print for 90° and print it sliced normal (planar).</em></p>
|
2021-04-23T07:34:29.187 | |3d-design| | <p>I am creating a bottlecap-like design. The design is sealed by rotating the lid. I am adding a chemical to it for an experiment. I would like the inside of the design to have no air circulating to it through the lid tiny spaces.</p>
<p>My design:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Xc1Q.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Xc1Q.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Are there any simple solutions I can implement out there? Design-wise, material-wise, or maybe an extra piece?</p>
| 16168 | How to create an air-free design? | <blockquote>
<p>Are there any simple solutions I can implement out there?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>A gasket made of rubber or other elastic or deformable material is probably the best option. Printing one or both of the parts using a deformable material like TPU might also work. Finally, if you don't need to open the unit during the experiment, you could use a sealant like silicone caulk might make sense.</p>
|
2021-04-23T11:28:07.917 | |desktop-printer|resolution| | <p>We're thinking of buying a PETG-powered printer. When researching printers available on the market, there are machines with a 100 microns. I was wondering if there are machines with a 50 microns or close to 50 micros? Otherwise, why not?</p>
| 16171 | Printer with 50 microns or close to 50 micron (z resolution) | <p>PETG is a material type that is <strong>only</strong> available for Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) type printers. Those are limited in their achievable resolution by their nozzle size:</p>
<ul>
<li>the Smallest depression in a surface that is printable is about half a line width in XY and 1 layer height in Z.</li>
<li>the smallest bulge from a flat surface that can reliably be produced by FDM is in the area of one line width in XY and 1 layer height in Z.</li>
<li>The minimum thickness of an item to be printable is one line width.</li>
<li>The maximum layer height in Z is 3/4 of the nozzle width.</li>
<li>Optimal line width is 1.1 Nozzle diameters.</li>
<li>That all is the <em>theoretical</em> limit, as machine movements and such push this minimum up by a factor of at least 1.5 and more likely 2-3, depending on how much your machine is tuned.</li>
</ul>
<p>The smallest available nozzles that doesn't require specialty extruders are 0.2 mm. That means the absolute minimum detail that could in theory be reproduced on a surface of enough thickness is a 0.1 mm depression using a design similar to this picture:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/plsAg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/plsAg.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>As a result: <strong>NO</strong> FDM with PETG is not a solution to your requirements, you want reliable 0.05 mm resolution in XYZ, which is the area of Resin printers, especially DLP and SLA, but also Stratasys PolyJet can achieve this at the moment.</p>
<p>Estimating from your <em>other</em> questions (like <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16115/petg-and-clear-aligner">this</a>), I <strong>still</strong> suggest looking at a resin-based system that has materials that are certified for medical use!</p>
|
2021-04-24T23:16:45.253 | |filament|nozzle|filament-choice| | <p>Does anybody if the Anycube Mega X comes with a nozzle for 1.75 mm filaments or is it 2.85 mm?
I saw online that it works with 1.75 mm filaments but the Cura settings given by the manufacturer had 2.85 mm.</p>
<p>I should mention that using a 1.75 mm filament works BUT my designs have clear under-extrusion, which is very likely caused by having 2.85 mm in the settings. So at this moment, I am trying to gauge whether to change the settings to 1.75 mm or buying 2.85 mm filaments (this only works if the Mega X comes with the appropriate nozzle).</p>
| 16180 | Adequate default filament diameter for Anycubic Mega X | <p>This is a well-known problem with Cura. The filament diameter is set to 2.85 mm by default (probably because Ultimaker printers use 2.85 mm filament). This will cause extreme under-extrusion if your printer uses 1.75 mm filament. Simply change the filament diameter to 1.75 mm in Cura's printer definition, and everything should be fine.</p>
<p>Older versions of Cura would reset the filament diameter to 2.85 mm if you installed an update or new release, but I think the Ultimaker have fixed that annoying little bug.</p>
|
2021-04-25T02:05:56.067 | |marlin|creality-ender-3| | <p>There are a few hits on my issue title but could not find an actual answer/advice.
I burned my Ender 3 Pro Creality motherboard and replaced it with an SKR 1.4 + TMC 2209 + BLTouch.
Everything is moving like it should and calibrated.</p>
<p>However, at the end of the homing process, the Z-axis goes up, then it's supposed to move to the printing position.
At that point, the acceleration is so great that the Z-axis barely goes down and I end up printing about 4 cm above the bed.</p>
<p>These are the settings I changed on my Marlin 2.0.7 firmware in relation to the Ender 3 setup:</p>
<pre><code>Configuration.h
set #define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "Nicolas Rietsch v 0.1.2"
enable #define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME
set #define CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "Ender-3 PRO"
set #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
set #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 5, 45 }
set #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 450, 450, 100, 10000 }
set #default DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 450
set #define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 500
set #define INVERT_X_DIR true
set #define INVERT_E0_DIR true
set #define X_MIN_POS -26
set #define X_BED_SIZE 230
set #define Y_BED_SIZE 230
set #define Z_MAX_POS 250
enable #define NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE
</code></pre>
<pre><code>Configuration_adv.h
set #define X_CURRENT 500
set #define Y_CURRENT 500
set #define Z_CURRENT 500
set #define E0_CURRENT 650
set #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_24V
</code></pre>
<p>What am I missing?</p>
| 16183 | First move after homing way too fast | <p>Maybe it would it help if you fix <code>#default</code> to <code>#define</code> in the current line:</p>
<pre><code>set #default DEFAULT_ACCELERATION ...
</code></pre>
|
2021-04-26T14:33:23.217 | |creality-ender-3|firmware|bltouch| | <p>I'm having some problems with my BLTouch.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gDMAm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gDMAm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Yesterday I got the 4.2.7 silent board delivered as well as the BLTouch and a glass bed. I was able to install the silent board without a problem and according to the many, many diagrams I've looked at, I also have my BLTouch installed correctly. I've installed several different firmware versions as well as manually compiling some.</p>
<p><em>I used the following diagram which was provided in a link by the <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZjVvaoADTIBsFHpvmfGUWR-nJY6VQirg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">seller</a>. I also tried the firmware for Ender 3 pro 4.2.7 board on the Creality website as well as a few other firmware versions from various YouTube videos.</em></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1gpk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1gpk.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>When I start up my printer the BLTouch does its normal startup thing and my printer says it's ready. But when I try to auto home, bed level, or even manually control the BLTouch it doesn't extend at all. I've spent about 4 hours trying to figure it out on my own and I'm throwing in the towel.</p>
| 16195 | Problem with BLTouch on Ender 3 Pro | <p>For anyone who has this problem in the future my solution was to loosen the screw on top of the touch just a little bit</p>
|
2021-05-01T23:37:11.777 | |pla|filament|adhesion|filament-quality|rafts| | <p>When I first got my 3D printer (a FlashForge Adventurer 3), it came with a sample pack of filament. With this filament, I was able to use skirts for my first layer. When the sample filament ran out, I switched to Hatchbox PLA filament. For some reason, I cannot use skirts with the Hatchbox filament. Now, whenever I try to print something with a skirt, the print moves around, ruining it. The only first-layer that works now are rafts, which I do not like, as they use up more filament and are more of a pain to remove. Is anyone else having this problem? If so, what are some workarounds to this issue?<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/913g2.jpg" alt="Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started to shift on the build plate." /></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Here are the failed prints. I terminated them mid-way, as they started
to shift on the build plate.</p>
</blockquote>
| 16229 | My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts | <p>Please try one (or more) of the following:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60 °C)</p>
</li>
<li><p>Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25 mm is what I use)</p>
</li>
<li><p>Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))</p>
</li>
<li><p>Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)</p>
</li>
</ol>
|
2021-05-05T08:11:32.893 | |creality-ender-3|print-quality|outdoors| | <p>If I buy a printer, it will be going on a small table on a front porch so as to keep the smell from the house. The porch has a roof, so precipitation is not a concern. I will find a way to keep the wind out, so that will also not be a factor. The only concern I can see is the lack of climate control. The printer will probably be an Ender 3 Pro. Will this turn out bad for the prints? Do I need to be concerned about dew? Any other concerns? Solutions?</p>
| 16246 | Will there be any negative effects on the print process if the printer is outside? | <p>Unless you enclose the printer fully in some way or another, I see problems, even beyond just print quality:</p>
<ul>
<li>humidity can and will end inside the printer by condensation and destroy the electronics, especially in the fall and winter months.</li>
<li>being accessible, children from the neighborhood might get their stubby fingers into the running machine or throw off the leveling.</li>
<li>being not locked in a box, people might decide to nick your printer.</li>
<li>If the printer is in the sun, the filament might age much more rapidly</li>
<li>Moisture can impact your filaments, making prints impossible with some filaments unless those are kept in a dry container.</li>
<li>Shifting temperatures along a day could lead to prints warping during printing, resulting in deformed prints.</li>
</ul>
|
2021-05-05T15:30:59.503 | |scanning| | <p><a href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt9742794/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Vault (2021)</a> movie has a scene at around 42' in which a laser scanner with a rotating table is used to scan a key in a short time, maybe some minutes:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7Dqo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7Dqo.png" alt="Scene" /></a></p>
<p>No calibration is done whatsoever. The scan quality must be high enough for the replicated key to be useful.</p>
<p>Is it technically possible? Is it exagerated? Is it fiction?</p>
| 16248 | Laser 3D scanner is used in the movie to scan a key: technically possible? | <p>There have been instances where people have <a href="https://hotforsecurity.bitdefender.com/blog/key-cloning-app-lets-you-or-a-stranger-copy-your-key-with-a-photo-18359.html" rel="noreferrer">replicated a key</a> from a <em>photograph</em> of a key. A multi-minute scan of a key seems like overkill, but that appears to be a very <em>large</em> key so maybe so.</p>
<p>Is it possible? Yes.</p>
<p>Is it exaggerated? Probably much simpler than is portrayed.</p>
<p>Is it fiction? As portrayed, yes. Practically, no.</p>
|
2021-05-05T18:22:00.617 | |creality-ender-3|filament|troubleshooting| | <p>I'm printing a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:271769" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Tower of Pi</a> on my Ender 3, and I woke up to find this near the extruder:</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dEH1M.jpg" alt="Powder and shavings piled up in front of the extruder" /></p>
<p>All my attempts to google this led to checking for either a clogged nozzle or the extruder itself stripping the filament, neither of which appears to be the case.</p>
<p>It looks like the upper edge of the filament might be grinding against the intake hole, so I looked into lubrication, but the consensus appears to be "don't".</p>
<p>Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a name for it, and how do I fix it?</p>
| 16249 | Excessive filament powder/shavings near the extruder | <p>The shavings come in part from the extruder design: there is no fillet on the pulling in side, the filament goes up in a sharp angle and is dragged over a rather sharp edge. It also brushes against the leadscrew.</p>
<p>To help with the shavings, you should alter the filament path to try and have a flatter angle than the 90°. A simple rod that pushes out the filament to come in at 80° might already reduce the number of shavings.</p>
<p>More might be reduced by opening the entry hole of the filament to have a 1-2 mm phase around it, altering the angle of the edge that the filament runs against to a much lower one and reducing the ability to shave off flakes. I did swap my extruder for an aluminium one, and it has this phase, and since then I have had little to no shavings at that spot anymore.</p>
|
2021-05-10T05:01:07.673 | |all-metal-hotend| | <p>Because of the crazy shipping prices, I want to find a cheaper alternative to ordering a 600$ all-metal hot-end.</p>
<p>Is there a material like that which does what PTFE does but till higher temperatures?</p>
| 16269 | Can I use a material other than PTFE to print PETG? | <p>PETG does not need an all-metal hotend or alternate bowden/lining material. Unless you're trying to print at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zkKcFtLAks" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>#speedboatrace</code></a>-competitive speeds, the recommended print temperature range for PETG is 230-250 °C, and the temperature above which you should not use a PTFE-lined hotend is 250 °C.</p>
|
2021-05-10T15:34:12.333 | |marlin|pla|adhesion| | <p>Today I ran into an issue with the filament not sticking to the build plate. However, the strange part is, that this only happens with one filament color (both PLA, khaki, black works just fine) and only in the main print. The test line on the side of the bed and the brim all stick without a problem. I already releveled everything and as I'm using ABL and the other filament works fine, this shouldn't be the issue.</p>
<p>I also tried increasing the first layer thickness in Cura, however, this leads to extreme warp (2 mm height on 5 mm width).</p>
<p>From my observations, it seems that the print head is raised after the brim is printed. Is there a setting in Cura to change that?</p>
<p><strong>Printer Details:</strong> Modified Ender-3 with MKS Gen L V2 Board and TMC 2209 motor drivers and BLTouch<br />
<strong>Print temp:</strong> 220 °C / 70 °C initial after that 200 °C / 60 °C<br />
<strong>Firmware:</strong> Marlin, details <a href="https://github.com/MasterPuffin/MKS-GEN-L-V2-Marlin-Firmware-for-Ender-3/tree/BLTouch" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a></p>
| 16271 | Print not sticking to bed | <p>Thank you for all your answers! After many failed benchies I fixed the problem now, however I don't know exactly what the problem was so I'll list everything I did:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dried my filament</li>
<li>Recalibrated the Z-Offset</li>
<li>Turned around my print bed, as I noticed the warp always starts at a
certain spot</li>
</ul>
<p>The high temperature is actually a recommendation by the manufacturer (PM Filaments).</p>
|
2021-05-13T09:44:07.277 | |prusa-i3|z-axis| | <p>In Prusa i3 clones the Z axis is often problematic. Mechanically unsynchronized dual Z axises which are driven by the same stepper driver easily misalign. Using only one Z motor makes the whole gantry sag on one side. And Z lead screws that aren't perfectly straight lead to z wobble.</p>
<p>The other day I had a simple idea that would fix all of that, but I can't find anyone who implement it before, so I probably there are drawbacks that I don't see.</p>
<p>The idea is to remove the lead screws (possibly replacing it with a second set of smooth rods to counteract X axis vibrations) and instead hang the gantry onto two ropes/wires which are drawn by a winch. That way, both ends of the gantry could be drawn symmetricaly by a single motor. Since there is no Z lead screw, there is no wobble. And since only the gravity is pulling the gantry down, you shouldn't be able to destroy anything by ramming the nozzle into the bed.</p>
<p>What drawbacks are there for this system? What am I missing? Is the gravity strong enough to press the nozzle into the last layer when printing? I am using a direct drive extruder.</p>
<hr />
<p>Supplemental follow up question (related to, and answered by, Trish's answer):</p>
<blockquote>
<p>From my understanding the hangprinter is only attached to ropes, same as a portal crane. I am considering an i3-style printer with the leadscrews removed, but the smooth Z rods intact (maybe even with a second set of smooth rods in place of the leadscrews. So the only forces that gravity has to work against are: output pressure of the extruder and potential bouncing in z direction. So, how could I calculate if gravity is enough for that?</p>
</blockquote>
| 16283 | Z-Axis on a winch | <p>This concept already exists, it is e.g. found in some high quality 3D printers. Instead of a winch, a belt system (of several belts) is used.</p>
<p>An interesting point from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16289/8884">this answer</a> already mentions that a winch isn't a good mechanism to lower/raise the gantry; if the cables are wound over each other the diameter of the wound cables will get larger and thus the movement. This could be circumvented by creating a push pull system and very few windings on the winch.</p>
<p>But, this concept already has been worked out in the <a href="https://vorondesign.com/voron2.4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">VORON 2.4 printer</a> design. This design is based on the work of a group of engineers and is considered to be a high quality printer that is also suitable for professional use. From the following image you can see (on the right side) a belt. This design uses 4 linear rails to support and guide the bed and 4 belts to drive the whole CoreXY gantry up and down.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9eqZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9eqZ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So, a winch will not work, but the type of suspension already exists and is in use.</p>
<hr />
<p>With respect to the i3 style printers and the free gantry movement the following is from my own experience.</p>
<p><em>I've build several i3 style printers of which my latest 2 where all having a freely moving gantry upwards as I decoupled the lead screw from the X mounts. The lead screw nuts simply push the gantry up as they are embedded in a separate part; gravity will pull the gantry down. The mass of the guide rods, a stepper motor and the hotend provide enough mass to pull it down. I've had excellent results with these printers, e.g. mentioned in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16285/">this answer</a>:</em></p>
<blockquote>
<p>poor layer bonding and possibly even collisions between the nozzle and already-printed material, from slight variations in height where extrusion pushes back against gravity</p>
</blockquote>
<p><em>is not encountered. The following images give an impression of the lifting device:</em></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9B8cMm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9B8cMm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGu4Mm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGu4Mm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2021-05-13T11:35:54.940 | |marlin|creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|pla| | <p>This problem is driving me crazy, no, seriously speaking. I bought this printer this week and started to calibrate for accurate dimensions. I printed the one-and-only calibration cube (20x20x20 also a 10x10x10) and well, the dimensions for the X & Y axis are perfect, but the Z-axis is a big problem, almost 1.5 mm bigger than expected.</p>
<p>I tried everything in order to resolve this issue, I checked to see if the steps are correctly calibrated using a ruler and moving my extruder up and down, precise as you expected, no weird sounds coming from the Z-axis and stepper while printing. I calibrated the E-Step, also the bed leveling is done automatically using the BLTouch probe. Also I want to mention that the first layer is perfect (took time to calibrate this too).</p>
<p>I am using Cura for slicing using the default profile for the Ender 3 Pro, Premium PLA, 210 °C for the first layer & 200 °C for the rest, 50 °C bed temperature.</p>
<p>I will leave here some photos, perhaps somebody could give me an idea.</p>
<p>As you can see from the images the Z-axis is scaled-up perfectly. This difference is about 1.5 mm for both cubes (the one with 20 mm & 10 mm).</p>
<p><strong>Has anyone encountered this type of problem before?</strong></p>
<p><strong>EDIT:</strong>
I will attach some pictures with the first layer. Right now I observe some wobbling in the Z axis and saw that the printer is not perfect laid on the table, one corner was lifted. So I tried to flatten. Waiting for the test print.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGJQg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGJQg.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yh1Sb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yh1Sb.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfAO0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfAO0.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JQo8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JQo8.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p></p>
| 16284 | Height of the prints are always larger | <p>Since nobody had any idea what cause the problem, I investigated for a full week.</p>
<p>The problem is related to <strong>Fade Height</strong> and .... a <strong>warp bed</strong>, since I have ABL (Auto Bed Levelling) and Fade Height enable. The compensation was way too big, something like -1.4 or bigger.</p>
<p>So, after I bought a new glass bed and set the fade height to 0 the problem is gone and the prints are looking normal, like -.2 mm or -.3mm in heights.</p>
|
2021-05-16T07:48:06.660 | |z-axis|bltouch|z-probe|3dtouch|artillery-sidewinder-x1| | <p>I have a BLTouch clone (3DTouch) on my printer (Artillery Sidewinder X1). I installed it on the printer ages ago and has been working fine since. Recently, I did a BTT smart filament sensor upgrade.</p>
<p>I updated and edited both the Marlin firmware and the MKS TFT28 screen firmware to get it to work with the smart filament sensor. The filament sensor runs through the screen not the motherboard so it is enabled in screen firmware instead.</p>
<p>The sensor works fine and every other part of the printer is fine as well, except that after the BLTouch does a <code>G29</code> (I have it do that before every print in my start G-code, followed by an <code>M500</code>), It will not adjust the Z-axis to compensate for the unevenness of the bed. I can see the Z motors not move and I cannot feel the lead screws rotate in my hand if I touch my hand against them.</p>
<p>I have been through several other forums, videos, etc. on the internet but none of them have the same problem as me and/or their solutions do not fix the problems.</p>
<p>I have also tried flashing the display with the original firmware, which did not work so I guess is that I have something wrong with the firmware.
I have checked and double-checked my firmware but maybe there is something I missed or do not know about that could be causing my problem.</p>
<p>Firmware can be found <a href="https://github.com/Smartich0ke/Artillery-Sidewinder-X1-firmware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here.</a></p>
<hr />
<p><em>I have tried running the original firmware with changes only made to enable the BLTouch. The Z-axis does still not compensate.</em></p>
<hr />
<p><em>I have also replaced the mainboard. I don’t know if that could affect the operation or not.</em></p>
<hr />
<p><em>Recently, I needed to print a part so I put the default Marlin firmware using the Artillery SWX1 example in Marlin's collection of examples with modifications made only to work with the BLTouch. I can post this copy of the firmware but it is probably identical to the GitHub repo below. This way I could just print with no Z compensation, however, now whenever I try to home the printer or do a <code>G29</code>, the BLTouch doesn't deploy and it will crash into the bed. I posted an unlisted video on YouTube demonstrating the issue <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyyazOalsc8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. Also note that in the video, I attempt to move the Z-axis by 1 mm, but instead, the stepper motors spin at full speed and the gantry comes zooming towards the bed.</em></p>
<hr />
<p><em>I tried flashing the firmware yet again and for some reason, the BLTouch worked. it could home is and to a probing routine. I have been using the printer without the compensation and it works fine but it is really bizarre that this is happening. I know it is unlikely to solve the problem, but I am thinking of purchasing a replacement BLTouch. They are only 20 bucks to replace and I did accidental slightly bend the plastic probe before the Z stopped compensating. So is it possible the BLTouch is cactus?</em></p>
<hr />
<p><em>So recently, I noticed when running a G29 T through Octoprint or Pronterface, etc. that the printer will return a set of numbers for each probing point. Does this indicate that the BLTouch has taken the measurements but the printer will not use them to compensate the bed?</em></p>
<p>I have tried all the answers below.</p>
| 16298 | BLTouch type sensor Z not compensating | <p>Make sure <code>RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28</code> is uncommented in <code>configuration.h</code>.</p>
|
2021-05-18T20:07:42.980 | |diy-3d-printer| | <p>So I wanted to print a 3D parabola, with a radius of 15 cm and a height of 4 cm. I've told this company, they told me that they need 3.5 days and its price will be 147 USA dollars and 50 cents.</p>
<p>I just want to know what is the average price for this?</p>
| 16314 | What is average price for 3D parabola? | <p>The price dependss roughly on material, machine hours, operator labour, profit and administrative overhead.
Some companies deduce the operator labour, machine hours and overhead to roughly 10 times the material cost. I think that is kind of fair. In your case I assume that you use PLA, the perabola is hollow (just a flat surface) and the company needs to construct the 3D model the parabola to a specific tolerance.
this model in PLA should not cost more than \$5 in filament, so about $ 50 should be an okay price for your parabola. The total price of \$147 leaves about \$97 for modeling the parabola. I think that's fair, given that a non-mathician has to find a way to construct a model and test the results.
If, for example, you want a metal print and you provide the 3D model I find the price of \$147 to be very normal. These metal printers are very expensive, labour intensive and eat up energy.
You can get instant quotes at the following sites: <a href="https://xometry.eu/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://xometry.eu/</a>, <a href="https://formalize-am.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://formalize-am.com/</a>
All above is just my best guess, given the data you provided. Expect a better answer when you provide more data.</p>
|
2021-05-21T20:58:18.823 | |creality-ender-3|ultimaker-cura|g-code| | <p>SUMMARY: I use a Creality Ender 3 and Cura 4.8 slicer. I need to print multiple objects 'one-at-a-time' (Cura allows this, that is fine) and I must specify the order in which each model is printed but Cura does not have this facility. My question is: how can I change the order of the printed objects by editing the G-code?</p>
<p>DETAIL: Sometimes it is essential or useful to specify the order of printing multiple objects in a 'one-at-a-time' batch print to allow the printing of some objects that are taller than the X-gantry clearance together with other objects that are shorter than the gantry because if you can control the order then you can print the small objects first and then the tall objects (because the gantry won't get in the way of the already-printed small objects but if the tall objects are printed first then the gantry will crash into them). Specifically I am talking about two or more objects printed at roughly the same Y-level on the print bed (I know you can 'get-away' with it if you separate them in Y but I want to print multiple rows of such objects). Without control over print order this cannot be done thereby limiting productivity (number of models per print run).</p>
<p>WHAT HAVE I DONE TO RESOLVE THIS ALREADY: I can control the print order of multiple identical objects in Cura (they are printed in reverse order to their creation as duplicates of an initial model and if there are problems you can sometimes control the order by moving objects around) but this does not work for multiple different objects. I did several Google searches and found some conversations that deal with this issue including on the official GitHub page of the Cura slicer (see for example this <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/6772" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cura GitHub Discussion</a>). The conclusion given by the Cura developers is that they understand the limitation, but it is not an issue for Ultimaker printers so they have no plans to make user-customisable print order a feature in Cura because it would be too much work for them to do the changes and maintain them. One person mentioned a python script to allow post editing of G-code to change print order but I could find no links to it. Another person described a 'workaround' in Cura to do with grouping and ungrouping models in a specific sequence but this does not work for me (?maybe it only worked in older versions of Cura). Perhaps someone on this forum has G-coding knowledge and could shed some light on how it may be done? [PS: I am only interested in G-code editing solutions for this question, or a Cura workaround that works in v4.8 - I don't use Octoprint/Rasperry Pi controllers].</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p>[EDIT] Thanks to the contributors in the accepted answer I managed to do this with 'cut-and-paste' (via a small C program - you could do it manually but it is tedious and there is more risk of making a mistake if you have many models). I used the comments in Cura's G-code and a few other G-code cues to calculate the correct splice points.</p>
<p>It works <strong>provided</strong> you take care to ensure the new extruder code is either altered according to the new model positions or use the 'relative extrusion' mode when saving the original G-code from Cura (I used the latter method). Also you must splice the G-code at the right points to ensure pre-model start and post-model finish G-code commands are properly carried around and the final model in the original G-code needs a terminal G0 command to be constructed if it is no longer terminal in the new order so that it can properly position the nozzle to go to the next model in the chain. Also you need to ensure M107 is included prior to each model's first layer. There is danger in doing any of this - the new G-code might damage your printer if you get anything wrong - but it can work (at least it has for me).</p>
<p>I made several manual checks on the new re-arranged G-code as well as loading it into Cura and running Cura's nozzle simulator on it to ensure it does what I expected of it prior to risking running it in my printer, but after that it printed OK.</p>
| 16338 | Edit G-code to change print order of multiple one-at-a-time print jobs | <p>You can open the G-code file in any text editor and copy-paste the relevant sections of G-code to reorder them. It will be fairly obvious where one object ends and the next one starts because the printhead will move back down to Z=0; you can do a simple search to find the commands that move to Z=0 (in my version of Cura, it inserts a comment <code>;LAYER:0</code> at the start of each object).</p>
<p>To ensure that the extruder starts in the correct position, look back at the previous print (in the original order) to see where the extruder finished, then insert (at the start of the new print) <code>G92 Exx.xx</code> where <code>xx.xx</code> is the previous position of the extruder. If looking back to the previous print is too tedious, you can also just use the very first extruder position in the print itself and use that. It will just skip printing the very first section of brim/skirt, which doesn't make a big difference.</p>
|
2021-05-22T18:33:38.213 | |pla|filament|extruder|troubleshooting| | <p>I’m just getting my feet wet with 3D printing, and I’ve had a few prints do this. Curious if anyone has any ideas for me that might help clean this up? (I don’t really have anyone in my personal circle who can help out, so hoping this community can :) )</p>
<p>Edit 5/23
The first layer of the print is inconsistent in the way it’s deposited. Some areas feel correct while others are very thin. Usually there are large gaps like in the pictures below. After the first layer, the rest of the print seems to be fine. I’m curious is anyone has any insight into what could be causing the inconsistency.</p>
<p>I try to level the bed before each print, but I’m not sure if it’s at the correct height as the instructions I got with the printer are pretty subjective: “use a piece of A4 paper and you should be able to pull it with <strong>some resistance</strong>”.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD6cz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD6cz.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNVrs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cNVrs.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 16341 | Help With PLA settings | <p>It looks like a bed adhesion problem to me. Some additive information: What is your bed material?</p>
<p>Z-calibration problem isn't the only suspect. I've seen the same problem with my printer before. There were defects in some parts of my glass print bed that prevented it from sticking.</p>
<p>The molten filament from the hot nozzle has two adhesion chances; full adhesion to the bed or adhesion next to the previous extruded filament. If the previous filament is not stuck to the bed, it means you are printing on the air shown in the pictures.</p>
<p>Without forgetting, your images also seem to have a Z-calibration problem, but as I said, I don't think it's the only suspect for blobs. It will be useful to clean the surface.</p>
|
2021-05-22T22:53:43.177 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling| | <p>I've had my Ender 3 for almost three weeks, gone through about a kilogram of PLA filament (printing a mix of upgrade parts for the Ender 3 and stuff I actually want to use) and made one PETG object, generally with good results.</p>
<p>I've noticed however, as seems relatively common (per YouTubers, anyway), that my bed isn't <em>flat</em> -- that is, the build surface isn't a good approximation of a geometric plane. If I adjust the bed to have correct clearance (good adhesion and correct single-line width) at the corners, I'll get adhesion failure in the center, and if I adjust to give a correct center, the extruded filament will be squished into the build surface texture; the nozzle may even lightly scatch the surface at the corners. That indicates the corners are high, relative to the center, by roundly 0.1 to 0.15 mm.</p>
<p>I'm aware of BLTouch and its clones, but in order to get full use of that system (which automatically compensates for the non-planar bed) I would need to not only install the surface sensing hardware, but flash my printer's firmware (potentially after removing the control module cover and plugging a cable and adapter into the mainboard). As a longtime builder/upgrader of my own computers, this is certainly within my capability, but I'd prefer to make my build surface flat instead of applying software corrections; I see this as upgrading from a 386 to a Core i3 because the computer is overheating -- that is, the problem will go away because of all the other stuff you have to do, but you haven't really <em>solved the problem</em>.</p>
<p>My general idea more or less mimics the self-answer on <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11996/options-for-getting-a-really-flat-build-surface">this question</a> in terms of measuring the excursion and applying shims under the build surface (I've installed the Creality magnetic sheet surface, so shims would be applied between the magnetic base sheet and the removable build surface). I plan to use household aluminum foil, standard weight, which is generally close to 0.63 mil (= .016 mm), applied with repositionable spray adhesive and laid down in layers, using a combination of feeler gages and single-layer test prints to determine where and how much foil to apply.</p>
<p>I've "test flown" this option by putting a single Post-It sheet under the center of the removable build surface, and now I have a much closer match between the center and corners, and can (depending on my nozzle standoff) actually see the outline of the makeshift shim in the first layer where it prints over the edges of the Post-It.</p>
<p>Is there anything I'm missing that would prevent this shimming method using aluminum foil from resolving the warped bed to allow me to depend on an even thickness and correctly adhered first layer?</p>
| 16345 | Does shimming my build surface compete with spending a bunch more money and time on an auto-leveling system? | <p>So, the difference between the shimming vs. auto-leveling is that auto-leveling goes around in a 4x4 grid taking measurements of the bed (you do need to set the Z calibration first, as you know) vs. the shimming method where you go to 4 corners on your build plate where you stick a piece of paper or something under there and you adjust the knob at the bottom until you can feel tension on it. What I've found to be the best for me at least is to use both. This is my method for printing every time:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Clean the build plate. I will take my scrapper and scrape everything off, then I will run it under some hot water and wipe all of the residue off that is still remaining, then I might take some glass cleaner or something and wipe it down.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Set the Z calibration.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Do the shimming leveling (I would normally go through all of the corners again plus the center/Z calibration just to make sure that I didn't mess up any of the other corners.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I will run the auto-calibration (I use OctoPrint so I just run it through there)</p>
</li>
<li><p>Smear Elmer's glue over the print bed. I do this for a couple of reasons:</p>
<ol>
<li>I use the glass side of the bed, just because I've gotten better results this way, and</li>
<li>it just makes your prints stick better. I also do this after the Z calibration and bed calibration because you get better results this way.</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li><p>Start the print and watch the first couple of layers. If you notice that when you are printing and the brim looks stringy, like you could pick apart the individual lines, you should cancel the print, and go back to your slicer and bring your line width down my 0.1 mm, I typical print with the lines 0.1 mm or 0.2 mm below what the nozzle prints at, so a 0.5 mm nozzle I will print at 0.4 mm. And if your print messes up here I'd scrape everything off so the filament and the glue off (I'd keep the bed hot and the tip hot just so I don't have to wait 10 min. for it to heat up again) then apply more glue and reprint.</p>
</li>
</ol>
|
2021-05-23T01:37:58.927 | |filament|filament-choice|filament-quality|filament-production|stability| | <p>I've read that white filament is a lot more brittle, because the pigment percentage is close to 50 %, e.g. black filament it's only around 8 %. I was therefore wondering if 'natural' colored filament, which has a somewhat ivory appearance, is also brittle like white filament.</p>
<p>Maybe the color name is a marketing lie or maybe it is really natural colored and there has slim to no pigment in the filament. Making it therefore less brittle. Since the color is closer to white than black I would guess the first one but I would love to be certain.</p>
| 16347 | Is 'natural' colored filament equally brittle compared to white filament? | <h2>No</h2>
<p>Natural colored filament has no pigments added, the ivory off-white color is the natural color of the mixture in the filament.</p>
<p>Also note, those white filaments can have much less than 50 % volume percentage of pigment, depending on the exact hue of white. The starkest cold whites might make that, warmer white can work with a lesser amount. Pigments are part of the filler materials. The other fillers make the filament behave in the designed way and can make up a considerable amount of the filament. Usually, less than 40 % are fillers compared to the PLA.</p>
|
2021-05-24T06:10:46.580 | |print-material|chemistry| | <p>I am trying to print a tank to be used with my RC engine. The material that I have to use needs to have the following properties:</p>
<ul>
<li>It needs to be possible to seal the final print so that it is not leaking any fluid</li>
<li>It needs to resist methanol, nitromethane (a solvent like Acetone) and lubricating oil at room temperature. It can get discolored or have other changes from the fuel, but it must not be able to compromise the sealing.</li>
</ul>
<p>I first - foolishly - just printed it with ABS as I do for every fluid container as I can nicely seal it with Acetone. After almost being done with it a friend told me to check the chemical resistance of ABS and as you might guess methanol and nitromethane completely desintegrate it, almost like acetone itself, so that was a waste of time/material.</p>
<p>Next I considered using Nylon. It shows exactly the chemical resistance against all the fuel components I need, however I could not find any (easily available) option to seal the print after printing and after printing a small test container and pouring in some water it leaks after half a minute, so unless I find a way to seal the Nylon containers interior this is also not an option.</p>
<p>I checked various epoxies but the few that I checked all showed poor resistance against methanol/nitromethane.</p>
<p>What I could not test yet but seems like an option is using HDPE. I am using PET bottles to transport the fuel sometimes so it definitely is both resistant and - in theory - watertight, however I am not sure how I can seal an HDPE print, so I am not sure about my first requirement with HDPE. <strong>EDIT</strong>: I found that <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limonene" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Limonene</a> dissolves HDPE and is relatively harmless and easily obtainable. Maybe it can be used to seal the HDPE print surface?</p>
<p>Hence my question: Is there a material that can be printed on a regular desktop printer (heated bed, nozzle up to 255°C) that satisfies both my requirements above or am I "doomed" to buy a moulded plastic fuel tank?</p>
| 16355 | Printing material for methanol tank | <p>As a supplement to the answer (doesn't fit well in the comments). This site <a href="https://www.filamentive.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-filament/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.filamentive.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-filament/</a> lists PETG has have a very high restance to alcohol, a high resitance to fuel</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Is PETG UV Resistant?</strong></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote>
<p>In the long run, it is now a well-known fact that it will almost always come out on top when it comes to objects and builds that have to be resistant to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. I.e., UV resistant. This is why it is ideal for objects that have to be kept under the harsh mid-summer sun. This is because UV radiation has minimal effect on it as compared to PLA and ABS.
--
From <a href="https://makershop.co/petg-uv-resistance/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://makershop.co/petg-uv-resistance/</a></p>
</blockquote>
|