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2020-11-01T06:25:00.680 | |hotend|temperature| | <p>My build with the Hypercube Evolution continues with a replacement BIQI KFB2.0 board. I am not at the printing stage yet. This is due to my latest problem.</p>
<p>The kit contains a “no-name” hotend, complete with round finned heatsink and nozzle. Looks a bit like a V5 J Head Hot End.</p>
<p>Everything is wired up. A 24 V power supply is being used. The printer is connected to Pronterface via USB. Using Pronterface, I set the hotend temperature to 70 °C. The KFB2.0 board lights a bright red LED when power is being sent to the hotend (and/or the heated bed). On initial heating, the red LED is on until the hotend temperature reaches around 65 °C and then turns off. The temperature continues to climb to around 120 to 125 °C, then starts falling. At 69/70 °C the red LED comes on again for about two seconds, the temperature continues to climb after the red LED is off to around 86 °C. It then cycles around the 69/70 to 86 °C position.</p>
<p>I have removed the thermistor to check its resistance. Reads greater than 100 kΩ. When in situ in the hotend, it was reading around 85 k&ohm, but a bit of Kapton tape sorted that. I was now reading 100 k&ohm with the thermistor in place. I then used Pronterface to set the temperature again. This time with a multimeter hooked up to the hotend terminals on the board. It confirmed that the bright red LED was sending 24 V and nothing when not on, so the hotend is recording a temperature increase from around 65 to 125 °C with no power. But, I now got something different when the temperature fell back to 69/70 °C. The red LED flickered for about two seconds and the multimeter showed readings fluctuating between 0.1 and 4.2 V. From this point the hotend kept the correct temperature, even after I had removed the multimeter.</p>
<p>Has anybody any idea why the temperature is going so high and what can I do to fix it?</p>
| 14706 | New Build. Hotend Overheating. Not Printing Yet | <p>3.9 ohms is a 12V heater. It won't work on 24V.</p>
|
2020-11-03T13:56:33.820 | |post-processing|filament-choice|water-resistance| | <p>I'm building a weather-proof enclosure for some electronics. It's expected to stay exposed outside all the time so I'm worried about its resistance:</p>
<ul>
<li>What would recommend me for 3D filament? I was thinking about <a href="https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/apollox-2779?category=453" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ApolloX ASA</a> but I don't have an enclosure.</li>
<li>What post-processing should I go with without being overkill? I was thinking about:
<ul>
<li>Resin coating <em>(was thinking about <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00PFXK4JY" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">XTC-3D</a>)</em></li>
<li>Filler/Primer spray</li>
<li>UV-resistant spray paint</li>
<li>Water-proofing spray</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>The enclosure have some moving parts exposed, how do I make the junction between them water-tight?</li>
</ul>
| 14719 | Post-processing and filaments for weather-proof electronic enclosure | <p>There are already some questions about the choice of filaments for outdoor use:</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3853/which-is-more-durable-to-sunlight-weather-pla-abs-or-petg">Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG</a></p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10/3d-printing-for-outdoor-use-what-types-of-filament-are-most-weather-resistant">3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?</a></p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2952/pla-use-outdoors">PLA use outdoors?</a></p>
<p>It may very well be that if you print in PETG you won't need any postprocessing.</p>
<p>If you still want to, you could try to paint or spray the outside with some bitumen spray for car underbody.</p>
<p>I think that the only part which actually needs postprocessing is the spot with exposed moving parts.</p>
<p>It's difficult or impossible to find a solution without having an idea of what we are talking about when you say "some moving parts exposed", but in general this is solved first of all by adapting the design so that water wont' be an issue: rain should flow away without getting inside, and spatwater should be reduced so that it will evaporate when rain stops.</p>
<p>If you only have an exposed pin for rotating parts which are inside, you could also pour some wax: it will seal it while allowing movement. The same bitumen spray may help.</p>
|
2020-11-04T09:12:15.110 | |bltouch| | <p>I couldn't find a reliable source listing the improvements of BLtouch 3.1 vs 3.0.</p>
<p>I can see that BLtouch 3.0 is sold (original) for about 20 Euro, while 3.1 costs about 30 Euro. The difference is significant.</p>
<p>What are the improvements?</p>
| 14725 | What are the changes between BLtouch 3.0 and 3.1? | <p>Best reference would be the original equipment manufacturer (Antclabs). It appears their sensor has had many <a href="https://www.antclabs.com/version" rel="nofollow noreferrer">versions</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HwKu.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HwKu.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So, from 3.0 to 3.1 is a software upgrade. Reported highlights are:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>★ Smart V3.0 (Mar. 2019 ~ ) : S10, S60, S90, S120, S140, S150, S160,
PWM Wiring defect indication(Blue LED), QR, Molex 1.25, Plastic
Push-pin(PC), Power Wiring defect indication(Red LED)</p>
<p>★ Smart V3.1 (Mar. 2019 ~ ) : S10, S60, S90, S120, S130, S140, S150,
S160, PWM Wiring defect indication(Blue LED), QR, Molex 1.25, Plastic
Push-pin(PC), Power Wiring defect indication(Red LED)</p>
</blockquote>
<p>If you look at the manuals you will see the differences:</p>
<p>V3.0
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJsjD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pJsjD.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>V3.1
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykPvN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykPvN.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>As can be seen, timings are different and more PWM position G-code options are available in the V3.1.</p>
|
2020-11-04T09:13:31.417 | |bltouch|anet-a6| | <p>I have looked at many tutorials already but I am not sure about how I should wire this properly. I bought a BLTouch V3.1 together with an extension cable</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKj0T.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKj0T.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Now, the thing is, with that extension cable you get one set of wires for the servo in a Dupont connection (brown, red, yellow) and one for the Z-min in a JST connection (black, white).</p>
<p>The JST connection actually has room for three cables, and when holding it the way you can plug it into the Anet A6 you have the following order: Empty, Black, White. However, IIRC the input Z-min input on the Anet wants the following order: GND, VCC, Z-min.</p>
<p>So if I would use the cable like this. then I would connect the black wire of the BLTouch to the VCC. Will this cause any trouble with my BLtouch?
Because I think it does, but then again, why would you sell such a wire.</p>
| 14726 | Wiring BLTouch V3.1 on Anet A6 and the JST connector polarity | <p>Black is GND and should not be connected to VCC.</p>
<p>Note that you can simply pop out the metal parts (use a pin to press a small clip) from the connector and rearrange how you want them to be.</p>
<p>Note that most printer controller boards have the GND of all the endstops connected, so technically you don't need the black wire at all. I make my own extension cables (from 4 wire cable) where the brown and black are connected at the sensor side and a single white wire is used for the Z-min endstop.</p>
|
2020-11-04T14:59:36.520 | |adhesion|knowledgebase| | <p>Painters tape is a common quick fix to adhesion problems, and we know <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/9987/8884">it doesn't need to be blue</a>, but it is often recommended not to do. Why? When is painters tape best used or skipped upon?</p>
| 14730 | What are the pros and cons of Painters tape? | <h1>Read First</h1>
<ul>
<li>Painters Tape does lift the print surface upwards by its thickness. This has to be accounted for in leveling the bed. Different Brands do have different thicknesses and thus need different leveling!</li>
<li>Easy-peel tapes need to be <strong>avoided</strong> as they don't stick to the surface!</li>
</ul>
<h1>Pro</h1>
<ul>
<li>Painters tape is cheap and easily available.</li>
<li>Laying down a painters tape without overlap is easy.</li>
<li>It is one of the best print surfaces for <strong>unheated</strong> printers.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Cons</h1>
<ul>
<li>Painter Tape needs to be refreshed regularly.</li>
<li>Weak glue on a painters tape might come off the bed.</li>
<li>Rough-textured tape might stick to the print too good to be easily removed.</li>
<li>Some tapes do leave coloration on the prints.</li>
<li>Cheap painter tapes can be hit-and-miss.</li>
<li>Heating painters tape degrades the glue on it, leading to adhesion failure and staining the actual print surface with residue. It is <strong>not advised</strong> to use it <strong>with heated beds</strong>.</li>
</ul>
|
2020-11-06T14:43:31.293 | |print-quality|corexy| | <p>I've started assembling a Sapphire Plus CoreXY printer and produced a nice calibration cube (no layer shift, although a bit of over extrusion in the corner). Then, I started printing a 3D benchy, and got this:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0xg9M.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0xg9M.jpg" alt="Side view" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSRnw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSRnw.jpg" alt="Top view" /></a></p>
<p>I've checked belt tension and it seems correct (I've printed <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2589577" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this belt gauge</a> with another printer and checked that both belts are tensionned the same), with a bass sound when pluked.</p>
<p>I've checked both Z-axis lead screw and it's not 100% perfect (one lead screw has a 1mm deviation on one side when rolled over my desk). When the bed goes down, the effect of the lead screw is only visible when the bed is half the height or more, so it shouldn't matter here.</p>
<p>Also, I had multiple filament breaking before entering the extruder in other prints, so I'm not 100% confident with the extruder.</p>
<p>The machine is a Core XY printer with a Bowden extruder, with linear rails for all axis, and 2 lead screws for Z axis (and 2 stepper motors attached by the same belt). It's level, on a concrete base.</p>
| 14737 | Layer Shift with a new CoreXY printer | <p>Shifts in a diagonal direction in CoreXY indicate loss of synch between the two belts.</p>
<p>If it's the belt very loose skipping, you may not hear much but such a loose belt is easy to notice.</p>
<p>If it's the belt a bit loose skipping, you would hear relatively loud noises which make very clear what's happening.</p>
<p>If there are no particular noises, it's the motor skipping steps. One motor move along the X+Y diagonal, one along the X-Y diagonal, so you know which one it is.</p>
<p>If you have missed steps it could be because of excessive friction (maybe one motor is mounted tilted, or it is damaged), or because of excessive acceleration setting, which the motor cannot handle, or because of too low current.</p>
<p>If you decide to increase the current be aware that it may work on simple tests, but during longer prints the stepper driver may overheat and lose steps for self protection.</p>
<p>To check what acceleration and/or current you actually need per each motor and to compare whether motors are significantly different from each other, try this.</p>
<p>Without printing, you set the maximum acceleration relatively high (5000 mm/s^2).</p>
<p>Place a paper square (relatively big) on the printing area, parallel to the axes and tape it.</p>
<p>Align the printing head to one corner of the paper square.</p>
<p>Give a G0 command to move the printing head to the opposite corner of the square (G0 F600 X... Y...) and check that the alignment is correct. Also, only one motor should be moving.</p>
<p>Bring back the head to the opposite corner.</p>
<p>Set the feed rate to high values, like F9000 (150 mm/s) and move the head again. If it reaches the correct spot, the current of the motor is sufficient for that acceleration.</p>
<p>Try for the other diagonal of the square you taped to test the other motor.</p>
<p>You can now reduce the current of the motors which successfully passed the test. If you have Klipper it's super easy and requires only the command "SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=name CURRENT=amps", with Marlin I don't know.</p>
<p>See at what current each stepper fails the test, then decide whether to reduce the acceleration (5000 mm/s^2 is anyway probably too high for your printer frame, you would get artifacts like ringing) or to dial back up the current. I would say that 20% above the current required to pass the test is enough. More than that and you are just overheating the TMC2008.</p>
|
2020-11-06T20:23:45.707 | |z-axis|creality-cr-10|layer-shifting| | <p>I have a Creality CR-10S Pro V2, I've been printing regularly for one month and then, suddenly, I started to notice <em>waves</em> on the Z axis. They're already noticeable with the test cube but deviation increases with the height and objects are ruined (eSUN Gray PETG 20 mm test cube, printed at VERY low speed):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aK4YA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aK4YA.jpg" alt="PET test cube" /></a></p>
<p>It was my first attempt to print with PETG then I thought that could be the problem, I cleaned the nozzle (also using eSUN cleaning filament) and switched back to PLA+. The problem is even more evident (eSUN cold white PLA+):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cakat.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cakat.jpg" alt="PLA+ test cubes" /></a></p>
<p>Note how the "wave" pattern matches between the two test cubes. Even if I was printing from less than a month (and "just" 5/6 hours per day, not every day) I thought it might be time for some maintenance:</p>
<ul>
<li>I fully cleaned the printer.</li>
<li>I checked all the belts.</li>
<li>I checked all the nuts & bolts. A few were loose, including those 4 that "attaches" the horizontal rail (the one that holds the extruder) to the Z axis threaded rods. Loose enough I could screw them with my bare hands (including those two at the left side which are hidden deep inside and they're a pain to reach with tools even removing a the cover).</li>
<li>I fully cleaned the rods and applied lubricant again.</li>
</ul>
<p>I've got this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhJ0u.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhJ0u.jpg" alt="second PLA test cube" /></a></p>
<p>I then moved the printer to the ground and tried again, it helped (possibly a lot) and printing PLA I get a cube almost like the PETG one in the first picture.</p>
<p>I noticed the both threaded rods have some freedom of movement in the Y direction (not the rod itself but the bearing ball they go through at the very top of the printer can move within its plastic enclosure); 0.5/1 mm for the left rod and 1.5/2 mm for the right rod. I don't know if it's an allowed tolerance or the sign that something is wrong (and what).</p>
<p>Searching on-line I read as many opinions as many posts I can find; I wouldn't go and buy replacement parts until I randomly solve the problem. It's frustrating enough to have to deal with it (and a huge amount of material wasted in failed prints and tests) after less than one month of activity...</p>
<p><strong>Update</strong>: I <em>secured</em> the two rods using two 0.2 metallic <em>feelers</em> and nothing changed. I still have this shift within the first centimetre (it <em>changes</em> position but it does not go away).</p>
<p><strong>Update 2</strong>: everything seems perfectly square (I can't swear this for the rods), cleaned and tight. Everything moves smoothly, and both bed and horizontal bar are fairly leveled. Effect is slightly less noticeable but obviously present.</p>
<p>One concerning point: travel speed was 150 mm/s, if I slow down to 130 mm/s then I can see a slightly less sloped shift; that makes me think that something could be vibrating when moving: top and bottom seem straight and they're printed at a much lower speed (20 mm/s vs 50 mm/s for PLA+, 20 mm/s - 15 mm/s for first layer - vs 30 mm/s for the test cube in PETG; travel speed was 150 mm/s for all of them). I guess that to reduce the printing speed to 10 mm/s for the entire object might help but I wouldn't call it a solution...</p>
| 14738 | Wave shift pattern on the Z axis | <p>This is classic Layer Shift in the Y plane. This happens in one of three cases:</p>
<ul>
<li>Belt too loose</li>
<li>Belt too tight</li>
<li>Bed movement hindered</li>
</ul>
<p>The belt should ring and resonate when tapped, giving a nice tune. I haven't really <em>tuned</em> mines, but my ender3 (250 mm bed movement in total) has about a G major.</p>
<p>The bed movement should be, with motors off, easy and smooth. If there are spots where it hangs, you might need to rearrange cabling or check if there is a bad spot on the linear motion system. If the movement is hard, you might need to lessen the pressure. Since the CR10 is pretty much the same as the ender3, the eccentric nuts should be turned so the bed does not wobble or move side to side but not to a degree the friction slows the movement. Carefully tweak here, use increments of about 10° till the layer shift vanishes.</p>
<p>Be careful where you place your printer: cabling can snag on other items or things can brush onto the bed. That should not happen. On the Z-axis it can unplug the X-axis motors and extruder, or in worst case, yank at the heater cartridge and damage it.</p>
|
2020-11-07T15:37:46.803 | |marlin|firmware|stepper-driver| | <p>I'm porting Marlin to my Qidi Tech 1 and I'm trying to figure out what part this is. The markings on it read "AAJU". I'm pretty sure its the digital pot to adjust the stepper drivers as there isn't a small adjustable pot on them.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pj1wE.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></p>
| 14742 | Which digipot is this with the markings "AAJU" | <p>The picture shows, that the marked chip is next to the letters <code>U8</code> to <code>U12</code>. U is commonly used for <a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/25308/what-do-the-pcb-markings-mean">Ineparable Assembies</a>, but there are several meanings possible according to the <a href="http://standards.ieee.org/findstds/standard/315-1975.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ANSI/IEEE Std 315 (1975)</a>. So, let's assume for the moment that this is <code>Assembly 8</code> to 12.</p>
<p>Note that the X-pot is marked to be down on the right side of each section, right under the sockets, and next to <code>R103</code> to <code>R107</code>.</p>
<p>The Marking AAJU might belong, according to <a href="http://chip.tomsk.ru/chip/chipdoc.nsf/vc1!readform&view=smd&cat=A&start=5001&count=500" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this reference</a>, to two chips. Both are <em>Voltage uP Supervisory Circuit</em></p>
<pre><code>AAJU MAX6339AUT MAX6339 SOT23-6 Quad Voltage uP Supervisory Circuit
AAJU MAX6726KASYD3 MAX6726 SOT23-8 Triple Ultra-Low-Voltage uP Supervisory Circuit
</code></pre>
<p>The pinout and look of the <a href="http://www.datasheetdir.com/MAX6339+Microprocessor-Supervisors" rel="nofollow noreferrer">first chip</a> is very much in line with what I see from the photo:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.datasheetdir.com/MAX6339+Microprocessor-Supervisors" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRyFy.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KeR25.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KeR25.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Sadly, neither a user manual for the board nor the pinout of it seems to be available at the time. My best guess based on these facts is, that it is the Quad Voltage supervisory chip, as the <a href="http://www.datasheetdir.com/MAX6726+Microprocessor-Supervisors" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MAX6726 has 8 legs</a>, as the <code>-8</code> in the entry <code>SOT23-8</code> indicates.</p>
|
2020-11-07T23:55:52.110 | |diy-3d-printer| | <p>Assuming a Cartesian printer with a belt and smooth rod design in which one axis moves another (i.e. the X-axis rails 'sit' on the Y-axis rails), what are the main considerations in sizing the rods and belts? For example, given a base design using 8 mm diameter rods and 6 mm belts (assume these are the limiting factors of the printer and that the frame, etc. can handle whatever you throw at it), what is roughly the maximum load, print speed and build size that this should be expected to support? If you were to increase the rod diameters to 10 mm or even 12 mm on one or both axes (assume the steppers could handle the increased load), what would the increased rigidity buy you in terms of maximum speed and/or build size and would 6 mm belts still be appropriate? Ballpark calculations or rules of thumb are fine as I understand the variables are likely not trivial and am looking more for a rough range of guidance to understand the trade-offs involved.</p>
| 14745 | Sizing belts and rods for a Cartesian printer | <p>The 3D printing revolution started out with the idea/community project to build self-replicating machines:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>RepRap was the first of the low-cost 3D printers, and the RepRap Project started the open-source 3D printer revolution. It has become the most widely-used 3D printer among the global members of the Maker Community.
<em>(From RepRap.org)</em></p>
</blockquote>
<p>The main aspects for this project was to build self-replicating machines from cheap and "simple" available materials and making them freely available for the benefit of everyone. The rod solution is a simple and affordable solution for linear motion with fair tolerances.</p>
<p>As far as the rigidity of the X carriage, rods aren't the best solution, increasing rod diameter will surely increase the stiffness, but it will be smaller than a design that uses a (quality) linear rail, these are much stiffer. Note that instead of steel, carbon rods can be used, these are stiff and light and reduce the weight of the carriage, allowing for higher acceleration and speed. The solution of using rods is mainly based on availability and being a cheap solution.</p>
<p>Do note that rods flex much more than linear rails, even when you increase the diameter, this will limit the length of the X-axis.</p>
<p><a href="https://m.all3dp.com/2/linear-rail-3d-printer-really-better-or-just-a-hype/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">From all3Dp</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Any decent rail will have far less give. In terms of 3D printing, this leads to greatly reduced backlash and ringing artifacts, yielding cleaner print surfaces and edges.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Belts allow the rotational motion to be transferred into a linear motion. Belt width depends on the force (carriage weight) you need to move. Same as for rods, an increased height will allow for a larger load to be driven/moved, but for a fixed load, the increasing height allows for less stretch and thus less printing defects. Note the different <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6714">types of belts</a> are available, all having their own stiffness and load bearing capacity.</p>
|
2020-11-12T12:36:01.050 | |marlin|calibration| | <p>Marlin has an option to fade out the amount of backlash correction, given as <code>BACKLASH_CORRECTION</code>. It is also available in <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M425.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GCode as <code>M425 [F<value>]</code></a>, where 0.0 = none and 1.0 = 100%.</p>
<p>Assuming backlash correction is otherwise well tuned at 100%, when is useful to reduce its effect? Why not always keep it at 100%?</p>
| 14782 | What is the purpose of partial (<100%) backlash correction? | <p>The developers explained the use of the M425 code <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10826" rel="nofollow noreferrer">themselves</a>.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>We devised a routine for measuring Z backlash automatically during G29
and found that software backlash compensation does wonders for the
first layer. However, this comes at the expense of artifacts on the
rest of the print. In particular, any rapid motions of the motor to
try to take up any backlash will inevitably create a small pause and
vibration, leading to a seam in the print. We devised a smoothing
algorithm that allowed backlash correction to be gradually applied
over a distance, this eliminated any harsh transitions, which again
lead to a huge improvement. Alas, we learned that the feature was very
sensitive to the variances in the printer build, working amazingly
well in some cases, but leading to a degraded quality other printers.
This perhaps is a feature that could be used by someone who wished to
hand tune the algorithm, but not something we could use in a mass
produced printer.</p>
<p>...</p>
<p><strong>"M425 F" sets a value from 0 to 1 which is multiplied by the backlash
distance. This command is meant for use by the slicer, and allows it
to "fade" away the backlash compensation gradually over several
layers, or to turn it off completely after the first layer (with a
"M425 F0")</strong>.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2020-11-12T17:16:41.670 | |petg|bed| | <p>What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?</p>
<p>PETG is known for sticking well to the bed; so well that it does not need a heated bed. If it weren’t for printing other materials, I would try printing directly on the glass bed instead of a build surface. However, the build surface may help protect the glass from excessive force.</p>
<p>To reduce how strong the PETG sticks to the build surface I’ve reduced the bed temperature to 35 °C. It is easier to remove the skirt and brim by heating the bed up to 90 °C, so that the PETG is soft. However, if one tries to remove the printed object at 90 °C, the printed object is like to distort and ruin.</p>
<p>I did sharpen the putty knife on the top side only. This helps, but it still takes excessive time to remove the print job and clear the bed. The excessive force on the bed from the putty knife seems to increase the need to level the bed. It also seems to affect the flatness of the build surface.</p>
<p>I’m looking for techniques to make it easier and less time consuming to remove the PETG print from the bed.</p>
<p>P.S. Additions after input from answers.</p>
<ol>
<li>Added keeping the initial Z-height high enough to keep adhesion to the bed from being too high. This resolved the adhesion to the bed issue, but seemed to make adhesion between layers worse.</li>
<li>Set hot end to 230°C for first layer, then increased hot end temperature to 250°C for better adhesion between layers.</li>
</ol>
| 14783 | What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed? | <p>Make sure to use a flexable print bed - when printing is finished wait a few minutes so it can cool down, take the print bed off of the build plate and flex it so the print just pops off for the most part. I also use a laminated PEI sheet over the bed plate</p>
|
2020-11-13T15:36:17.320 | |creality-ender-3|safety| | <p>I am trying to print something that might take 15 hours. I don't want to risk my printer so if I print for 15 hours, what is the worst that can happen? So far, I haven't printed anything for more than 5 hours.</p>
| 14797 | Long Print with Lotmaxx SC-10 | <p>As long as your printer is well designed as far as safety and you didn't get one without <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection">thermal runaway protection</a> you should be fine. Worse case scenario: you have a big mess to clean up and a lot of wasted filament.</p>
|
2020-11-13T18:20:19.687 | |bed-leveling|bltouch|anet-a6| | <p>I want to check how stable the output of the bedleveling protocol <code>G29</code> was by running it multiple times. When running it four times, I got this as subsequent output</p>
<pre><code>Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2
Recv: 0 -0.056 -0.475 -0.605
Recv: 1 +0.124 -0.349 -0.595
Recv: 2 -0.023 -0.344 -0.673
Recv:
Recv: 0 1 2
Recv: 0 +0.218 -0.183 -0.325
Recv: 1 +0.399 -0.073 -0.328
Recv: 2 +0.251 -0.072 -0.399
Recv:
Recv: 0 1 2
Recv: 0 +0.498 +0.090 -0.049
Recv: 1 +0.677 +0.211 -0.038
Recv: 2 +0.531 +0.217 -0.117
Recv: Bilinear Leveling Grid:
Recv: 0 1 2
Recv: 0 +0.772 +0.368 +0.222
Recv: 1 +0.949 +0.482 +0.231
Recv: 2 +0.806 +0.495 +0.154
</code></pre>
<p>Which are quite unstable, and strange results. It seems as if there is an increment of around +0.27/0.28 for each probe point in the next iteration. How can this happen? What are the right bed level settings right now?</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Anet A6</li>
<li>Probe: BLTouch</li>
<li>Software: Marlin 2.0</li>
<li>Bed level mode: Bilinear</li>
<li>Amount of probe points: 3x3</li>
<li>Probe surface: glass bed</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<p>For reference, here are the <a href="https://pastebin.com/tzwicptQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration.h</a> and the <a href="https://pastebin.com/qpGVFD6j" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration_adv.h</a>.</p>
| 14799 | Output of G29 bed leveling, Marlin 2.0 | <p>Actually the sensor reads the bed correctly in terms of shape, not in actual reproducible distance.</p>
<p>Plotting the grids:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoYurm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoYurm.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4H3Hm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4H3Hm.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyZ2im.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyZ2im.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2J4hm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g2J4hm.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Results in pretty much the same shapes, so, when correcting for the maximum displacement and plotting all results in a single graph gives:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RTEe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RTEe.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>So the sensor does seem to produce reproducible bed geometry, but not the actual values.</p>
<p>Misinterpreting your initial question I assumed a default Anet sensor, this official ROKO SN04-N sensor is reported to not be very accurate and has a maximum <a href="http://pliki.aksotronik.pl/sn04.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">hysteresis</a> of 10 % error of the detecting distance, which is 10 % of 5 mm (so ± 0.5 mm). The overall maximum measurement is in grid 4 with a value of 0.949 mm and in grid 1 with a value of 0.124 mm; 0.949 mm - 0.124 mm = 0.825 mm is well within the ± 0.5 mm. This seems odd as the hysteresis should be in play on all measurements as the probe goes up and down. I've used this sensor myself, but replaced it for a more reliable sensor like the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX.</p>
<p>Now that it is clear that an accurate sensor is being used, there might be some play/backlash present in your printer. You should check the probe mount and the Z-axis.</p>
|
2020-11-16T02:43:06.180 | |resin| | <p>With a resin printer, the print will occasionally adhere to the bottom sheet of the resin tray (the FEP transparent sheet), instead of the stainless print plate.</p>
<p>How does one remove the failed print from the FEP sheet without causing damage?</p>
| 14815 | How to remove a resin print stuck to the FEP tray bottom | <p>Wash the resin tray in the normal way, with hot water and dish soap. Once the FEP sheet is warm, run a finger alongside the bottom of the sheet, opposite the side where the failed print is stuck. The slight warping of the FEP sheet will cause the print to come loose. If this does not occur the first time, try again. Proceed patiently and delicately, making sure to wait for the FEP sheet to be sufficiently warm.</p>
|
2020-11-20T11:50:47.697 | |post-processing| | <p>There are lot of advices on the web how to paint the 3D printed objects, but generally they are advices for manual painting and this required special skills, especially if the object is small. My guess is that maybe 3D printer can lay the color layers as well? I am especially interested in the layering of enamel paints (which can be transparent and which can required high temperature heating afterwards). Medieval art has fine examples how detailed enamel art was created on the metal. Maybe something like this can be achieved with 3D printers as well?</p>
<p>If 3D priner with the paint-printing capability is not available generally then what are the prospects when such printer can be available? Maybe there are some early, experimental efforts to create such printer and maybe test devices are available?</p>
| 14846 | Can 3D printer work with enamel paints (or paints generally)? Are such printers available? | <p>So, there's not really anything like a 3D painting machine/robot like I think you're looking for, but there are printers that do fine detail with actual paint, usually oils, but not on 3D materials.</p>
<p>I found a <a href="https://studioartist.ning.com/forum/topics/paint-printers-do-they-exist" rel="nofollow noreferrer">thread</a> that talks about canvas printing about 8 years ago, along with a couple of videos that show <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vj3NKmIKErE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">current machines</a> doing <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ri7sa90EVk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">just that</a>, but that's still not what I think you're looking for.</p>
<p>There are also <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SK0r7PfMUwQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CNC machines</a> that print with enamel paints, but these are usually for 2D again, and not very precise, as they are used for lapel pins that have cavities to hole the paint while it dries. I'm sure something like this could be used without the cavities, but you'd have to do a lot of testing to make sure the paint stays put or mixes as you want it.</p>
<p>Just like the oil printers, these enamel printers are likely very large and costly.</p>
<h2>Alternatively</h2>
<p>What might work for you is hydrodipping. There's a variety of methods to this, but one company has done a bunch of research on this and can do extremely accurate detail printing to "paint" 3D objects. The below video shows a variety of these hydrodipping techniques, but I've skipped to the most relevant part.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3y40JWmlU3E?start=240"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>Here's the original video of what I think you're most interested in. It's not 3D printing in the way most of us think, but it's definitely a fantastic outcome.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YlUhPrAqiY0?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>To explain, if these videos are ever deleted: detailed prints are made of a 3D model to color it exactly the way it needs to be, sometimes using multiple steps and computer positioning to get the object colored/"painted" correctly and seamlessly. One part of the video shows how the software can accurately make straight lines on a human-contoured face mask, while another part shows how a blank, fully 3D cat model can have spots or stripes added in 3 steps with the seams being completely invisible as well as it detailed enough to be mistaken for a real housecat beyond first glance.</p>
<p>As it turns out, you can do (some of) this yourself. After doing some research, I've found that you can actually get blank (instead of pre-printed) films and use an off the shelf printer, as long as it meets certain requirements. (I'm not recommending a site, brand, or anything else, this is just the first/only option I can find. If you do more research, I'm sure there's more options out there.)</p>
<p><a href="https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-film/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-film/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-water-transfer-printing-inkjet-printer-6-color-inks/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-water-transfer-printing-inkjet-printer-6-color-inks/</a></p>
|
2020-11-22T04:44:48.077 | |resin| | <p>I do not have a clear understanding of what causes resin prints to become brittle. Firstly, it appears excessive cold (in the 40s or even 30s, I am in New England) may be a factor. What else can cause brittleness in resin prints? Is there a difference between resin types?</p>
| 14860 | Brittle resin prints | <p><em>disclaimer: I own a company manufacturing 3D printing resins, and all links lead to my products :)</em></p>
<h1>Key reason - resin formula</h1>
<p>First of all, it really depends on the composition of your resin. Some of them are more brittle than others. Usually cheaper resins are more brittle.</p>
<h1>What causes properties to change?</h1>
<p>That being said, some tougher resins even with some flexibility once printed can still become brittle over time. That could happen due to:</p>
<ul>
<li>Continued exposure to UV light. It continues to cure your model and it loses its flexibility. The same goes to over-curing of your prints. If you print with longer exposure time settings than needed it will produce stiffer prints with less flexibility.</li>
<li>Arid environment. If the air in your environment is dry, some resins can become more brittle.</li>
<li>Cold environment. Heat makes plastics more flexible.</li>
</ul>
<h1>What can you do?</h1>
<p>Best way to protect your models from getting brittle - covering them with paint or other UV resistant coating.</p>
<p>You can also choose resins that don't become brittle over time and is less sensitive to above mentioned causes. For example our TGM-7 resin: <div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LPR0nNvRbg4?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
|
2020-11-23T02:42:13.553 | |belt|prusa-mini| | <p>I just received my new Prusa Mini a few weeks ago and at first it was great. But very soon a afterwards I started having small issues creep into my prints such as shapes becoming elongated, ridges on what should be a smooth surface, and skipped steps along the X axis.</p>
<p>Eventually the entire head carriage started making a thunking sound as it slid across the X axis. This was from the belt, having lost some of its teeth, slipping across the motor.</p>
<p>Here is a photo of the damage to the belt:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p541V.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p541V.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Prusa service was excellent and with a photo and my order number they shipped out a replacement immediately.</p>
<p>Swapping in the new belt fixed everything and I thought my problems were behind me. But within a day or two of printing I started noticing problems with my prints. Upon inspection, I found that my belt was again damaged:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1Szn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b1Szn.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I've tightened belts before on my other printer and have never seen anything like this.</p>
<p>I did notice that the belt provided by Prusa is thinner than the one on my other printer. But the Prusa belt seems to be of a higher quality with some kind of fiber blended into it:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiFV9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiFV9.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The obvious answer is that I've overtightened the belt. But I've tightened belts before and never had this happen.</p>
<p>Interestingly, both belts failed at the exact same location. The position where the damage would be at the X axis motor puts the extruder roughly centered on the build plate.</p>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAfQj.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></p>
| 14864 | How is my Prusa Mini damaging its X axis belt? | <p>I followed up with Prusa on this recently (a few months later) and they confirmed that there were issues with some belts but that this has been fixed in production.</p>
<p>To provide a better guarantee of quality, I opted to replace both the X and Y axis with genuine GATES 2GT PowerGrip GT3 belts. This has fixed the problem for me.</p>
|
2020-11-25T16:56:13.433 | |3d-models|post-processing| | <p>I have a number of fairly large printed pieces. The parts, when assembled, form a very large sword. (The model is this: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178060" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178060</a>, and is not mine.) It is about 7' from tip to pommel, and individual pieces are fairly large. The pieces are already printed, so advice to modify the model geometry to add reinforcements at this point is moot.</p>
<p>I have printed the pieces in PLA. I'm not asking for glue recommendations, necessarily, but rather something that could help with adhesion in addition to the glue. I'm concerned that after gluing them together, they won't support their own weight very well. I'm not worried about swinging it, just holding it and hanging it on a wall.</p>
<p>If I was very clever, I would have modified the files to add a through-hole that I would've put a pipe through or something, but I didn't think that far ahead. I could drill holes in the printed pieces, but I don't have a good way to make sure they line up.</p>
<p>So, what is the best way to add some kind of support to help keep the parts from falling apart? Is there some trick I could use to figure out how to line up drill holes?</p>
| 14877 | What's the best way to connect pieces of a large print after printing? | <p>A stronger joint than glue can be had by welding, albeit uglier and best used in hidden areas. One way to weld is with friction, using a Dremel to spin a piece of filament so fast it heats up and melts with the two plastic pieces you are joining. You tack the pieces together with a couple spot welds, then move along the joint slowly, melting a bead of plastic that is melted into both sides. Like metal welding, penetration is key to strength. You need a straight piece of filament (heat gun works, and rolling it on a flat surface while it is soft), and 3mm is a better size than 1.75mm, if available. It also helps if the joint is a little “V” shaped, so you melt plastic in the crack between the two pieces. Search “filament friction welding” for articles.</p>
<p>You can also weld with some filament and a chisel tip soldering iron with variable temperature (lower the temperature to a little above the filament’s printing temp). Melt the filament into the crack between the parts. Do something to get rid of the fumes if using ABS, etc.</p>
<p>Both work, friction welding might get more penetration into the parts being joined, thus a stronger joint, but they are both a sturdy way to do a butt joint between two printed parts, that would be weak if glued.</p>
<p>The friction welding can also be used to “rivet” overlapping parts, if you dive in and melt the spinning rod through the two parts, then stop the motor and hold it in place while it cools, then snip the end of the rivet off flush.</p>
|
2020-11-25T21:22:11.817 | |creality-cr-10|part-identification| | <p>When trying to solve the issue described <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14738">in this post</a> I followed the advice in the accepted answer and I found that the timing pulley holes for the Y axis (to "secure" the pulley to the motor shaft) were only half drilled (!!!). I suppose that everything worked fine (even without blind screws) for the first month (probably because the belt was extremely tight) but just a bit of wearing and it started to slip.</p>
<p>While I already replaced the pulley I also contacted the Creality technical support to obtain (at lest! funny...) a reassurance that it didn't possibly stressed the belt or the bearing balls. My experience with their technical support has been <strong>horrible</strong> and I am still waiting (after weeks) my answer (probably it's easier for them to try to ignore their sloppy assembly and QA) but they sent me a procedure to follow to "debug" any issue with my printer.</p>
<p>One of the pictures in that procedure is this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUW46.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUW46.jpg" alt="What the CR-10S Pro V2 motherboard seems to be" /></a></p>
<p>To my surprise this is the motherboard I have:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UpiGS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UpiGS.jpg" alt="What my motherboard looks like" /></a></p>
<p>Now I am puzzled. Which one is the correct motherboard for the Creality CR-10S Pro V2 (not the <em>old</em> version but the <em>newer</em> V2)?
Is this just [another] sloppy mistake from the technical support or I do have the <em>wrong</em> motherboard? Differences with V1 are not many then I suppose it could even work with the old one...</p>
| 14881 | Is this the correct motherboard for my Creality CR-10S Pro V2? | <p>The board that's installed in your machine appears to be the Creality v2.4 / v2.4.1 board, which is the correct board for your printer.
It is distinguishable by the 30-pin ribbon connector, which is used to connect to the rest of the printer.</p>
<p>The board in the tech support pictures is the v2.5.2 "silent board", designed for printers such as the non-Pro CR-10 series. It features two 10-pin connectors for the LCD screen.
It also uses individual connectors for all functions, so, contrary to the "Pro" boards, is also easily swappable with aftermarket boards.</p>
<p>A third type of board (e.g. v1.1.5) exists, mostly for the Ender 3 series of printers, which features only one 10-pin connector for the display.</p>
|
2020-11-28T01:47:25.993 | |3d-design|openscad| | <p>I'm trying to subtract a polyhedron from a cube, but it is not working (the cube remains solid). However, I can see the cut-out poly in preview mode (but not after a full render).</p>
<p><strong>Preview</strong> -- poly cutout shows on the top (and bottom).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk1Z5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk1Z5.png" alt="preview" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Rendered</strong> -- poly cutout not visible.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cofDh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cofDh.png" alt="rendered" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Poly Exploded</strong> -- pulled the poly to the right to show its shape.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VILrM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VILrM.png" alt="poly exploded" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Code</strong></p>
<pre><code>size = 30;
wall = 3;
wall_x2 = wall * 2;
nubGap = .125;
nubHeight = 8;
nubOffset = wall + nubGap;
xCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;
yCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;
cutoutLowerY = nubHeight + nubGap;
cutoutUpperOffset = nubOffset + wall;
difference() {
cube([size, size, size]);
translate([wall, wall, 0]) {
polyhedron(
points = [
[0, 0, -10],
[xCutoutSize, 0, -10],
[xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, -10],
[0, yCutoutSize, -10],
[0, 0, cutoutLowerY],
[xCutoutSize, 0, cutoutLowerY],
[xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],
[0, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],
[cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size]
],
faces = [
[0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0], // bottom
[0, 1, 4], [1, 4, 5], // side A
[1, 2, 5], [2, 5, 6], // side B
[2, 3, 6], [3, 6, 7], // side C
[3, 0, 7], [0, 7, 4], // side D
[4, 5, 8], [5, 8, 9], // slope A
[5, 6, 9], [6, 9, 10], // slope B
[6, 7, 10], [7, 10, 11], // slope C
[7, 4, 11], [4, 11, 8], // slope D
[8, 9, 10], [10, 11, 8] // top
]
);
};
};
</code></pre>
| 14892 | OpenSCAD not rendering polyhedron | <p>Usually when there's an overlap in two objects during a difference action, F6 render will resolve the problem. There's something more than that involved here, as reducing the height of the cube creates a non-manifold object from the difference. user R..'s answer has merit but is not going to solve the problem.</p>
<p>Isolating the cube from the code and exporting the result as an STL allows me to determine that the faces are generated in a manner preventing a proper difference action:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEtXM.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEtXM.png" alt="meshmixer image" /></a></p>
<p>This image from meshmixer shows the faces have inverted normals. The order of the points are critical when describing a polyhedron. From the wiki page for <a href="https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#polyhedron" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenSCAD</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It is arbitrary which point you start with, but all faces must have
points ordered in the same direction . OpenSCAD prefers clockwise when
looking at each face from outside inward. The back is viewed from the
back, the bottom from the bottom, etc. Another way to remember this
ordering requirement is to use the right-hand rule. Using your
right-hand, stick your thumb up and curl your fingers as if giving the
thumbs-up sign, point your thumb into the face, and order the points
in the direction your fingers curl.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>EDIT: I reversed some of the points, haphazardly and luckily picked the correct ones:</p>
<pre><code> faces = [
[0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0], // bottom
[4, 1, 0], [1, 4, 5], // side A
[5, 2, 1], [2, 5, 6], // side B
[6, 3, 2], [3, 6, 7], // side C
[7, 0, 3], [0, 7, 4], // side D
[8, 5, 4], [5, 8, 9], // slope A
[9, 6, 5], [6, 9, 10], // slope B
[10, 7, 6], [7, 10, 11], // slope C
[11, 4, 7], [4, 11, 8], // slope D
[10, 9, 8], [8, 11, 10] // top
</code></pre>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBMo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBMo.png" alt="rendered code" /></a></p>
|
2020-11-28T09:08:53.427 | |creality-ender-5| | <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJKvJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJKvJ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>Ender 5 Pro prints are very uneven on base of the model.</p>
<p>In this example I printed an SD card dummy but it is not even flat.</p>
<p>Having a glass bed it is super strange to see this kind of behaviour.</p>
<p>Here are parameters in Cura.</p>
<pre><code>M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E94.5 ;Setup step mm
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
</code></pre>
<p>Thanks in advance, I tried quite a few calibrations but nothing helped so far.</p>
| 14894 | Ender 5 Pro bent/curved print on base | <p>This is a classic example of not enough adhesion. Tune bed temperature (usually hotter), use a brim or add an adhesive layer like glue stick or hair spray or a dedicated print adhesion spray.</p>
<p>The question "<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/5234/">Warping of bottom of print</a>" has <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5237">an accepted answer</a> that explains in detail how and why this occurs.</p>
|
2020-11-29T10:04:39.287 | |print-quality|creality-ender-3|hotend|bigtreetech| | <p>(Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board and Touchscreen, BlTouch)</p>
<p>Hello everybody,
I want to print something for my family but the hotend gets clogged every time in the same part of the print. I tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Different Nozzles</li>
<li>Different Filaments</li>
<li>I cleaned every Part</li>
<li>The E-Steps are set right</li>
<li>The retraction Setting didn't make a difference</li>
<li>The Extruder Position is perfect</li>
<li>I tried different speeds</li>
<li>Everything else you find on Google with a clogged hot end.</li>
</ul>
<p>The most odd thing about this is that the problem occurs at the same place every time.</p>
<p>On Flat surfaces are some anomalies, that wasn't there when I had the normal clogged nozzle problems (from: retraction settings, dirty Printer, e-steps false). I think it has something to do with the anomalies.</p>
<p>Another thing I don't get behind are missing layers after the layer change,
even when I don't use retraction at all.
In The Picture from the side you see the Support with the Layer change problem.
After around about Layer 40 there is one Layer missing and the next Layers are not connected anymore.
From the top you see the Surface anomaly I don't know how to describe.
It would be helpful to know what I did wrong. I am sure I did Everything against a clogged Nozzel but I can be Wrong so tips in this direction are Helpful too.
I am quite new to 3D Printing(2 Months) I had the usual clogged Nozzel Problem Solved and It Worked Perfectly. I Tried to Fix It with the same Solutions and Nothing Helped, so I think it is a different problem.
Sry for my bad English I am from Germany.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA9br.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA9br.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKgpD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKgpD.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I have an Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board, Touchscreen and BlTouch which I use together with [insert slicer here]. I print in [PLA/ABS/PETG/Whatever Material] at [Extruder temperature] °C. The print bed is set to [Bed Temperature] °C. I use a print cooling fan at [whatever] %. The layer height I set to 0.[x] mm, the line width [line width/extrusion width] from the 0.[x] mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to [x] mm/s for walls and [x] mm/s for infill. My retraction is [off / [X] mm at [x] mm/s].</p>
| 14898 | I can't figure out how to name this problem or solve it | <p>I noticed that on my Ender 3, if the belts aren't tight enough, I have a similar problem, but mostly when I print anything circular.</p>
|
2020-11-29T19:48:50.620 | |openscad| | <p>Given a .SCAD file which contains some modules, how can I execute one of those modules from the command line?</p>
<p><strong>example.scad</strong></p>
<pre><code>module One() { ... }
module Two() { ... }
</code></pre>
<p><strong>render.sh</strong></p>
<pre><code>openscad -q -o one.stl --module One example.scad
</code></pre>
<p>Note that there is no <code>--module</code> option, but that is what I'm attempting to do. The workaround would be to make another .SCAD file e.g. <code>one.scad</code> which includes <code>example.scad</code>, and simply calls <code>One();</code> within and render that file from the shell file. But this is not ideal.</p>
| 14900 | Export STL from OpenSCAD command line, calling module within script? | <p>elaborating on the answer from @r-github-stop-helping-ice, I find the following pattern useful:</p>
<h6>example.scad</h6>
<pre><code>module a() { .. }
module b() { .. }
module c() { .. }
module print(item=0) {
if (item==1) a();
if (item==2) b();
if (item==3) c();
}
item = 0;
print(item);
</code></pre>
<h6>render.sh</h6>
<pre><code>#!/bin/bash
for i in {1..3}; do
openscad -D item=${i} -o item_${i}.stl example.scad
done
</code></pre>
|
2020-12-01T03:29:08.103 | |extruder|stepper-driver|stepper|closed-loop| | <p>I am relatively new to 3D printing, but have some background in industrial equipment and test machines.</p>
<p>An important part of printer setup is getting the extruder mm/step rate configured correctly.</p>
<p>I was wondering if anybody has done any research into closed loop drive of the filament where the feedback to close the loop comes from a knurled idler on the filament.</p>
<p>This would mean factors such as drive slippage and different material stiffness could be automatically compensated for.</p>
<p>Going one step further the feedback wheel could be placed at the hotend of Bowden extruder systems negating the need to tune in retract settings for different materials as the closed loop system can just pull back however much material is required to get 1-2 mm as measured at the hot end.</p>
<p>I have seen there are readily available steppers with drive boards built in for closed loop control, I would imagine it would be a relatively simple task to remove the hall effect sensor from one of these boards and mount it remotely to read off a measuring wheel instead of the drive shaft.</p>
<p>I had a bit of a search but couldn't find anything on this topic online, is this something that has already been looked into and if it hasn't are there any significant reasons why this shouldn't work to improve performance and/or reduce manual tweaking and calibration required.</p>
| 14912 | Can closed loop steppers be used for extruders? | <p>Closed loop steppers like S42B are becoming popular for the spatial axes because compensating for skipped steps is the correct way to recover for those axes. For example, if the nozzle knocks into a warped corner of a print and skips, the right thing to do is compensate, commanding additional steps necessary to get to the commanded location.</p>
<p>This is less valuable for extruder, since displacement is not necessarily the target we want to recover, but nozzle pressure. Extruder skip usually occurs when nozzle pressure exceeds the motors ability to drive the filament. Correcting for the skipped steps may result in overcompensating, attempting to drive nozzle pressure up over a longer period of time, since the problem won't clear itself as quickly as it does for the spatial axes. Compensating for skipped steps doesn't recover E errors like they do for X,Y, or Z, since skipped E steps tend to be driven by persistent problems, like low nozzle temp or hotend restrictions, where spatial errors tend to be transient, e.g. hitting a 'speed bump' on the print.</p>
<p>An alternative is filament flow sensors like <a href="https://www.biqu.equipment/products/btt-sfs-v1-0-smart-filament-sensor-detection-stuck-blocking-filament-module" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this BTT Smart Filament Sensor.</a> It uses a similar feedback mechanism like you suggest. It uses a driven wheel and encoder to send pulses to mainboard. When mainboard stopped getting pulses during commanded moves, it pauses print. Instead of trying to correct in a closed loop fashion, its a human-in-the-loop solution</p>
|
2020-12-03T04:30:44.787 | |post-processing|resin|uv-printer| | <p>I'm looking to put a UV-blocking clear coating on some of my resin 3D prints.</p>
<p>I've tried <a href="https://www.krylon.ca/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating</a> but it seemed to react with my print making it softer and easy to break. I'm trying to coat a thin Lithophane so I would rather not make it any softer.</p>
<p>Are there any better options for a UV-blocking clear coat for resin 3D prints?</p>
<p>Printer used: AnyCube Photon (dlp) <br>
Resin used for Print: <a href="https://www.amazon.ca/ELEGOO-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B07JLWPRZJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin</a> <br>
Lithophane maker: <a href="https://lithophanemaker.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">lithophanemaker</a></p>
| 14928 | Clear coating resin 3D prints | <p>I'd go for the easy option of using a composite setup: Acrylic lacquers themselves are very low reactive and can serve as a foundation before the UV clear coating is applied. The <a href="https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/UVresistant_nonyellowing_finish.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">acrylic lacquer itself doesn't change coloration if exposed to sunlight</a>, but the light can still pass and discolor the lithophane.</p>
<p>Your Krylon clearcoat technically <em>is</em> an acrylic paint, but to be used from a rattlecan, other chemicals are added - a whole lot as the <a href="https://www.krylon.com/document/SDS/en/US/724504013051" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MSDS</a> tells us. The list of chemicals <em>besides</em> the paint in that can are <em>Acetone,</em> n-Butyl Acetate, Propane, Butane, Xylene, Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate, <em>Cyclohexane, Ethylbenzene</em>,
Bis(pentamethyl-4-piperidyl)sebacate. Three simple chemicals I put in italics - they are very good solvents that easily react with the resin print. Propane and Butane create the pressure in the rattle can, the other four chemicals make up the actual lacquer. I have observed the mix of Acetone, Cyclohexane, and Ethylbentene (with possibly others) softening PLA, so it is totally possible that they react unfavorably with your resin print. As a result, I suggest using a brush or roller to apply acrylic paint from a can (not spraycan!)</p>
|
2020-12-03T19:21:09.300 | |all-metal-hotend| | <p>I had a failed print lastnight and a glob of pla surrounded the hotend. After heating it up and removing the glob the extruder does not release any significant material. I checked with OctoPrint and the extruder stepper does push filament without the hot end on.</p>
<p>After fully heating the hot end I was able to remove the nozzle.</p>
<p>I then pushed the previously melted PLA out of the tube and heater. It was discolored in the heater. I then tried to put the nozzle back on and pull the old PLA out of the nozzle but no success there.</p>
<p>Should the nozzle be left in acetone for a few days before trying again or how should this be dealt with. The nozzle appears to be blocked.</p>
| 14933 | After print failure cant extrude PLA | <p>If the hotend is okay, consider yourself lucky and consider the nozzle a loss. Aside from specialty items like <a href="https://olssonruby.com/" rel="noreferrer">ruby tip</a> ones, nozzles are a consumable anyway. Even if you can clean it out well enough to get it working again, it's unlikely to extrude as well as a new clean nozzle. Acetone is probably not going to help; PLA does not dissolve in acetone, and while the pigments/additives might be affected by it enough to weaken and deform PLA in a way that could get it to detach, what's clogging your nozzle is likely <em>burnt</em>/carbonized PLA that's unlikely to be removable by anything that won't also destroy the brass.</p>
<p>If you don't already have replacements on hand, get yourself a pack of 10-20 for $10 or so and be ready to replace when needed. You can also go for a mixed-size pack if you want to try printing fine details with a smaller (0.1-0.3 mm) nozzle or super-fast but rough with a large (0.8-1.0 mm) nozzle.</p>
|
2020-12-04T00:58:05.900 | |resin|safety|chemistry| | <p>For the purpose of cleaning, I need an aggressive solvent for cured or partially cured resin that will degrade resin down to its liquid state. I'm looking for one that would eat out specifically resin (I'm using regular Anycubic green resin) in a rapid fashion but would leave painted / metallic parts and screen of my 3D printer without damage.</p>
| 14935 | Aggressive resin solvent | <p>I would try hexane, and then Dichloromethane and if those did not work, I would heat up sodium hydroxide to about 70-90 °C. These would work better if you print in PLA resin, it's available from a few sources now.</p>
<p>Bucktown polymers and 3Dresyns both have a water-soluble resin. You could also print, make a soft silicone mold, cast in chocolate or isomalt and quickly seal in b72 enamel to hold its shape for your next step.</p>
<p>Another great option is to cast the printed mold with Amazing Remelt as you can microwave it out of your shell afterward. Or heat up/steam.</p>
|
2020-12-04T21:09:01.207 | |water-resistance| | <p>This is a specific model for a specific reason. It's shaped like a cylinder and has a recessed bottom. I'm using a Flashforge Adventurer 3 with Flashforge filament. I tried Sunlu silver/silk PLA+ but my Flashforge didn't like it, so I took the recommendation to use Flashforge filament. It worked just fine, but when I put water in it, it has leaks.</p>
<p>I was printing at 210 with a plate temp at 50. Like I stated, I was excited except for the fact that it's not watertight.</p>
<p>Since I'm new at this process, my first thought was there must be a food grade spray, or close to food grade, that could seal the model after I touch it up.</p>
<p>Does anyone know if there is one available? Or are there settings that I need to address?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance for any comments.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp1L2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp1L2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 14943 | Is there a way to make a watertight model? Is there a spray that may work? | <p>There are several ways to ensure water tightness:</p>
<h1>Thicker walls</h1>
<p>I have experienced that 3 walls and 5 tops/bottoms with an outer shell of Concentric while the core is lines become watertight enough that leakage is almost none.</p>
<h1>Lacquer</h1>
<p>The oldest known method to seal a piece of porous material is a lacquer, followed by glaze. Glazes require to be burned at some thousand degrees, so are out, but lacquers are simple and easy. Basic clear acrylic lacquer can be used to seep into all the cracks and crannies and then harden out. It's easy to apply and cheap from home depot. Polyurethane lacquers also work. If you look to use it for food, ask if the lacquer is food rated in home depot.</p>
|
2020-12-06T13:32:58.037 | |diy-3d-printer|heated-bed| | <p>I am making a bed for my 3D printer. I have bought a silicon heater (31x31 cm) and I want to glue it to my custom aluminum bed. The tape that it had from factory was bad, so I removed it. I want to glue it to the aluminum and I don't know what type of adhesive to use, I was thinking gasket glue with silicon, but I think that it will have bad thermal conductivity. I found <a href="https://www.annapol.eu/product_info.php?products_id=137997&language=en" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this product, a silicon based, heat transferring paste</a>, but I think that it will not stick good. What is a good adhesive for this purpose?</p>
| 14952 | Gluing silicon heater to aluminium | <p>I suggest not gluing it. Starting from the top, make a sandwich this way:</p>
<p>Aluminium with holes for bolts - Silicone heater - Thin cork (the one from IKEA, 2 mm thick for office desks is fine) - Thin plywood with holes for bolts (or other stiff material holding at least 60°C)</p>
<p>This way you use the aluminium and the plywood to keep the silicone heater well in contact with the aluminium, and the cork insulates so that less heat is lost on the bottom side.</p>
<p>Also, cork is fire-retardant.</p>
<p>If the heater fails replacing it is simple.</p>
<p>Also, you can and should cut away from the cork some space for a thermal non resettable fuse at 180°C to cut power if the heater overheats.</p>
<p>In my case I should have used one more bolt, as you can see in the photo.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nwJN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0nwJN.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
|
2020-12-07T13:02:45.613 | |creality-ender-3|usb| | <p>Is this possible? I know that the controller board of the printer is normally controlled (when using USB) by an active computer sending data, but I was wondering if it could be reversed so that the board retrieves files from a USB flash drive? My SD card keeps failing and is overall frustrating to work with, so USB would be a nice option.</p>
| 14963 | Printing files over USB drive (Ender 3 Pro) | <p>Unfortunately, no.</p>
<p>There are two types of USB devices: host, such as a PC, and device, such as a thumb drive. (Actually, there is a third type, on-the-go, which can act as either.)</p>
<p>The Ender 3 mainboard is a USB device which means that it can only connect to a USB host. You cannot directly connect two USB devices, such as the Ender 3 and a thumb drive) and have them work.</p>
<p>One option would be to set up <a href="https://octoprint.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint software</a> on a <a href="https://www.raspberrypi.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Raspberry PI</a> single-board computer and connect that by USB to the printer.</p>
|
2020-12-08T22:41:48.920 | |creality-ender-3|endstop| | <p>Why does the Ender 3 only have 3 limit switches instead of 6?</p>
<p>How does it handle crashes on other sides?
Is it worth adding them with a new mainboard?</p>
| 14986 | Ender 3, why only 3 limit switches? | <p>Because it knows the side of the build volume, all it needs to know is one physical location to home from. So knowing {x,y,z} (0,0,0), and knowing x(max) = 230, y(max) = 230, z(max) = 250, and knowing 1 step (x) = 0.001 mm, it can know when to stop before hitting the other side.</p>
<p>Because it knows where 0 is, and because it knows the maximum value, it knows where the other limit is through math.</p>
<p>2-sided limit switches are used on industrial equipment that have open-loop control mechanisms, like a lathe with a DRO, the DRO won't stop the lathe, so you need to hook up a limit switch on the other side to stop the lead screw... You could also have a maximum travel limit switch on a CNC router where if you send the spindle too far, you might break the equipment, or cause injury.</p>
<p>I hope this answered your question, and was also informative on how limit switches are used elsewhere... It's not perfect or exact, but I think it should give you a broad idea...</p>
|
2020-12-09T09:52:29.507 | |firmware|fdm|pressure-advance| | <p>Recently I started looking at pressure advance and how it works and I'm a bit confused about where it is usually implemented.</p>
<p>My idea of 3D printer was that its firmware is fairly dumb and only replays G-code, not knowing anything about the object being printed, material used, or even the printer itself.</p>
<p>But with pressure advance this whole thing changes and now the firmware needs to know the linear advance factor which combines information about the filament and filament path used. In addition, the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the G-code, but its motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.</p>
<p>Why is this? Is there a reason that slicer (or a post-processor) can't compute all this and directly store the needed extruder axis movements in the G-code?
Does the printer have some additional information that the slicer is missing?</p>
| 14996 | Why is pressure advance usually implemented in firmware rather than in the slicer? | <p>This is a really good question that sheds a lot of light on 3D printer software/firmware architecture, and Tom already said a lot of the things I wanted to say before getting a chance to write an answer. The basic problem is that, to do pressure advance accurately (and in a way that doesn't get it horribly wrong when inaccurate), you need to know the actual feedrate of the extruder at all times, and that's not available until applying the acceleration profile, which by convention happens in the printer firmware.</p>
<p>With that said, there were primitive and even somewhat advanced attempts to do pressure advance in the slicer. The first seems to have been "coasting", which, along with extra-priming after coast, is pretty much just "pressure advance, assuming a constant feedrate". It gets things horribly wrong if you mix different extruder feedrates (different print speeds or line widths, etc.) or if you have slow acceleration, but if your acceleration is so fast (relative to max speed) that it's approximately instantaneous, it might work okay.</p>
<p>Modern Cura also has Flow Rate Compensation, which is something like pressure advance. It's rate-sensitive, so in theory it can give accurate results with varying line width and print speed as long as acceleration is close enough to instantaneous. Since it appeared after Marlin added linear advance, I never bothered trying to play with it, so I can't speak to whether it actually works decently. There are still a lot of subtleties to when the advance is performed that it could get wrong, and I think you'd want to do some test cases just to read the gcode output and evaluate whether what it's doing is sufficiently close to reasonable.</p>
<p>If you wanted to do full pressure advance in the slicer, you'd need to let the slicer handle acceleration profile, breaking lines up into small segments each with nominal feedrate matching the rate they should end at, and sufficiently close to the rate they should start at, with the firmware acceleration limits set to accommodate the change. Then, knowing a very good approximation of the actual toolhead and thus extruder feedrate for each segment, you'd know the advance to apply, and could apply it as an additional subdivision at the end of the previous print move. And then in theory, it all works out. But this would make the gcode <strong>a lot</strong> larger/bulkier, and more demanding on the serial link speed and microcontroller's ability to keep up with parsing/planning. So it's almost surely a bad idea.</p>
<p>The Klipper firmware does this differently. It does the gcode parsing and planning (including pressure advance) in Python software (with some C for critical paths) running on a much more capable computer, and sends the precise generated stepper motor timings over the serial link to the microcontroller operating the printer hardware.</p>
|
2020-12-09T20:14:20.183 | |resin| | <p>I am using a clear resin to print parts using a Formlabs printer. At the moment, I am using the resin from Formlab which comes in a cartridge that fits in the printer. However, I would like to move to a cheaper option if available. I would like to able to refill the cartridges that I have rather than buying a new cartridge.</p>
<p>Is it possible to buy some clear resin from an outer source or would that damage the printer?</p>
| 15002 | Does the resin vary from a printer to another? | <p>According to <a href="https://sourcegraphics.com/files/8315/4119/7144/MaterialsBooklet-SG.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Formlabs</a> (at least their FormLabs Form 2 and 3 models), their resin is 405 nm which is a fairly standard resin.</p>
<p>There's a wide variety of resins our there that are compatible with 405 nm, and many resin makers/resellers advertise what brand, make, and model of printer they are compatible with. I have an AnyCubic Photon v1 and it uses the same 405 nm resins. You might have to do some testing to see what specific brand or style works for you, including changing your settings (if possible in the software you use). FYI, I use a version of CHITUBOX which does allow settings for exposure time, raise height, pause time, and a few others.</p>
<p>Knowing that it uses 405 nm UV also allows you to know what kind of UV lights to get for easy indoor curing, too.</p>
<p>I'd like to say that it's not likely for these resins to damage the printer, but FormLabs seems to use a plastic tray, instead of the aluminum tray I'm used to so I don't know if there would be a chemical reaction, though I'm skeptical if there would be. I'm assuming it's using a similar FEP clear film for the bottom to the AnyCubic, but I can't confirm this, since the FormLabs film seems to be integral to the tray, rather than replaceable.</p>
<p>I can see why you are looking for other resin options. One place I saw online has a 1 L FormLabs cartridge for \$150, when 500 mL on Amazon is usually between \$20-30. I've seen special resin, such as flexible, as high as \$60 for 500 mL and ABS-like resin for $40, though. Water washable resins seem to be in the \$40-50 range. There's also "natural" or plant based resin for about the same price as regular resin, but might have a different reaction to your tank.</p>
<p>I'd assume that every brand of resin (except for the rebranded stuff) has their own chemical makeup besides the various types of resin, so you might have to some testing, although I realize that messing up a tank that's \$150 to replace is not exactly something you want to do every day.</p>
<p>I can tell you that I've used at least 6 different brands of resin and they all react differently to the UV. I mostly have tested clear, and just that produces a variety of results, from how easy/hard it is to cure to what color it turns when it over cures. (I'm still trying to find a clear that fully cures actually clear.) Where I was going with this is that with all these resins I've used, I haven't had any that caused damage to the FEP film. Some have stuck really hard and I had to be really careful pulling it off. However, I've only had 1 film need to be replaced due to clouding, and I have 4 Photons and used all resins I've tested with all my machines.</p>
|
2020-12-11T20:20:48.493 | |marlin|g-code|serial-connection| | <p>I would like to log each line of G-code to the serial port as it is processed.</p>
<p><strong>Steps to achieve</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>the printer reads a file from the SD card</li>
<li>each line it reads will be serial logged (this I can't figure out)</li>
<li>those lines can then read via the serial monitor on a laptop</li>
</ul>
<p>So by the end of the print, on my laptop I would have the reconstructed G-code file (plus whatever other logs the printer outputs).</p>
<p>The printer runs the Prusa Firmware. Ideally I would like to achieve the logging from altering the firmware rather than adding an extra plugin/server (For understanding and experimenting purposes).</p>
<p><strong>What I tried</strong></p>
<p>I have looked in code and found <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Marlin.h#L99" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the print functions</a> and examples of them in use in the code. This line is the "<a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cmdqueue.h#L43" rel="nofollow noreferrer">command, which is to be excecuted right now</a>", but I think that would be the just one command not the full line.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cardreader.cpp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cardreader</a> or <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/SdBaseFile.cpp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SdBaseFile</a> are where I would expect a G-code line to be read such that I could add a print statement after it but I did not see where.</p>
<p>Would it be as easy as setting this <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cardreader.cpp#L30" rel="nofollow noreferrer">card.logging</a> bool to true?</p>
<p>I imagine this is quite an easy thing to do and that I have just overcomplicated it by trying to understand the firmware. Any advice would be great!</p>
| 15016 | How to log each G-code line read from the SD card to serial on marlin firmware | <p>In <code>cmdqueue.h</code> the <code>CMDBUFFER_DEBUG</code> macro is defined (<a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cmdqueue.h#L47" rel="nofollow noreferrer">see here</a>) which will log lots of information related to the commands being processed. Probably more information than you need...</p>
<p>To log only the commands as they are processed (i.e. when the printer moves and extrudes etc.) you need <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Marlin_main.cpp#L3696" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this line from marlin_main.cpp</a>: <code>SERIAL_ECHO(cmdbuffer+bufindr+CMDHDRSIZE);</code>.</p>
<p>You can copy this outside of the <code>#ifdef CMDBUFFER_DEBUG</code> condition and compile the firmware then when you connect to the serial port each G-code line the printer processes will be logged.</p>
|
2020-12-13T19:59:52.017 | |pla|prusa-i3| | <p>I have an MK3S 3D printer, and I use this table as a reference on how to tune my printer for a specific Filament
brand.</p>
<p><a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials</a></p>
<p>I am trying to find a few missing parameters for a specific brand Filament PLA in the table.</p>
<p>The missing parameters are listed and shown in the image below.</p>
<ul>
<li>Heat deflection temperature</li>
<li>Impact resistance Charpy</li>
<li>Tensile strength</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z51nv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z51nv.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Where is the best place or reference to find such missing data?</p>
| 15032 | Where to find "Heat deflection temperature" , "Impact resistance Charpy" and "Tensile strength" for a specific brand Filament PLA? | <p>Unless the Manufacturer offers them, you have to extrapolate from other brands. Most PLAs are very close and hit within 10% of one another.</p>
|
2020-12-16T00:34:05.570 | |ultimaker-cura|3d-models|blender| | <p>I 3D modeled a cartoon car using Blender, mostly using add and subtract with boolean tools. When I export to Ultimaker Cura, I get these cuts along the model. Does anyone know why this is happening? Appreciate any feedback on the model.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4Tvv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4Tvv.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHH8o.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHH8o.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The blender file: <a href="https://github.com/dantedaiki/jQuery-File-Upload/blob/master/Cartoon%20Car.blend" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/dantedaiki/jQuery-File-Upload/blob/master/Cartoon%20Car.blend</a></p>
| 15048 | 3D model with errors when exporting to Cura | <p>In blender, you can occasionally have faces with flipped normals. Those areas then are "inside out". Such areas are just ignored in Cura. Fixing the files is as simple as recalculating the normals, but you'd best use a program like <a href="https://service.netfabb.com/login.php" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NetFabb</a> for for that.</p>
|
2020-12-16T05:28:20.253 | |troubleshooting|bltouch| | <p>I was five hours into a six hour print and got a 28 mm X direction layer shift. No idea what caused it. I stopped the print cleaned the bed and (via Pronterface) went to home the bed (<code>G28</code>). The gantry homed X and Y and then I got the following message:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use <code>M999</code> to restart. (Temperature is reset. >Set it after restarting)
[ERROR] Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use <code>M999</code> to restart. (Temperature is >reset. Set it after restarting)</p>
<p>Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999
[ERROR] Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with <code>M999</code></p>
</blockquote>
<p>Entering <code>M999</code> followed by <code>G28</code> just reproduced the error. I powered down and then checked the BLTouch connections. The white signal wire seemed a bit loose, so I tightened that. All other wires are secure. Powering back up, the BLTouch did not do its normal probe up and down routine. The main red light flickered for about three seconds, it then flashed 7 times and then came on fully. At the end of the flashing, the blue LED on the circuit board also came on. Testing, the black and white signal wires gave a reading of 0.975 kΩ.</p>
<p>I had homed and levelled the bed (<code>G28</code>, <code>G29</code>) then saved the data (<code>M500</code>) prior to starting to the six hour print print earlier with no problem.</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Hypercube Evolution (CoreXY) with KFB2.0 board running 24 V.</li>
<li>Genuine Antclab BLTouch v1.0.</li>
</ul>
<p>Anybody any idea what has happened?</p>
| 15049 | BLTouch Stopped Working | <p>Turned out that the BL Touch had packed it in. Replaced with a new BL Touch v3.1 and everything works.</p>
|
2020-12-17T12:30:03.440 | |marlin|creality-ender-3|petg|pid|thermal-runaway| | <p>Before I start, I'll give you my setup:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ender 3 Pro</li>
<li>Marlin 2.0.7.2</li>
<li>Material/Nozzle: PETG 0.4 mm @ 215 °C</li>
<li>Bed: Glass @ 80 °C</li>
<li>Default printing speed: 70 mm/s</li>
<li>Standard part cooling fan</li>
</ul>
<p>Since I've updated the Marlin FW on from factory default to 2.0.7.2, my printer stops printing and gives out an thermal runaway exception message. Note that, after the firmware flash, I performed a PID-Tune multiple times.</p>
<p>The problem is absolutely repeatable and happens always on beginning of layer 2 (more precisely: 40 seconds after beginning layer 2). Changing PID values doesn't change anything to the moment of the error occurring.</p>
<p>I managed to run it longer by repeatedly dropping the temperature set-point and making a photo of the temperature plot. First photo is right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C. Second is when the temperature started rising slowly again.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b67wW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b67wW.jpg" alt="Right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C" title="Right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNF1j.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Temperature starting to rise slowly"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNF1j.jpg" alt="Temperature starting to rise slowly" title="Temperature starting to rise slowly" /></a></p>
<p>After this temperature drop, the hotend temperature seemed to be much less stable and reached only 205 °C.</p>
<p>At Layer 12, the same thing happened again. But dropping the temperature far too low for PETG and having the "same" issue again, making me stop the print.</p>
<p>This problem is pretty urgent and I haven't found any suitable solution by now. Do you have any ideas of what may cause this trouble? New heaters and thermistors are on their way right now. But I fear that this is not a hardware problem since none of the components are damaged and dysfunctional, nor the moment of failure is random.</p>
| 15054 | Thermal Runaway E1 at Layer 2 | <p>Wrap all the heat system (above nozzle) with heat tape. I solved my problem with this!</p>
|
2020-12-19T01:54:31.110 | |ultimaker-cura|hotend|underextrusion| | <p>Recently I cleaned up the bowden tube and the nozzle, after that I noticed the 3D was underextruding because the walls of the prints were weak and the first layer didnt adhere on the bed.
I watched some youtube tutorials on how to fix this and pulled the bowden tube until the nozzle, cleaned inside the tube and removed clogs.
My temporary fix is setting the flow on Cura to 200%.</p>
<p>I added a extruder visualizer and it seems to be working just fine.
Any ideas why it is underextruding?
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hil0Q.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hil0Q.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I'm using PLA at 200C, bed at 60C</p>
| 15060 | Ender 5 Underextruding | <p>If you pulled the Bowden tube out of the hotend and then got this, you almost surely installed it wrong, leaving a gap between the tube and the nozzle for molten filament to fill and jam in. Remove it again with the hotend hot, and if there's a mess inside, look for guides on cleaning it. Then, to reassemble, loosen the fitting from the heat sink by 3/4 to one full turn, press the tube in as far as it will go, then tighten the fitting down to compress the tube against the nozzle.</p>
|
2020-12-21T19:26:53.303 | |slicing|prusaslicer| | <p>Odd question for everyone, hope it has a distinct answer. I'm often printing bone models derived from CT scans (I work in a hospital) and they often have something on the order of 5 million faces +/-. Now, I know from experience that I can decimate them down to 10-20 % of the original faces and they still pretty much look the same, so I often do that to help my computer run faster. I also know that "GrabCad" (the software for my j750) can handle these face counts and the limiting factor is more so the actual physical print resolution. But it got me curious:</p>
<p>Lets say I was using other software. Lets say more universally available software such as PrusaSlicer or Cura. Now obviously if I'm printing on a Prusa I probably don't need to worry about capturing all the detail from 5 million faces because I doubt I can print that intricately, but lets take the actual printing out of it (and I guess even before it gets to the G-code stage).</p>
<p>Can Cura/PrusaSlicer handle that many faces? Is there a limit? Do files get "dumbed down" at all when they come in? What I'm trying to ask exactly is outside of the G-code and actual printing step, can the software side of things handle something with 10 million faces? 20 million? Is there a limit?</p>
| 15077 | File size limit in 3D printing software | <p>As a new Cura UltiMaker user, I found that when I tried to load a very detailed STL file, I received a message that it had too many faces. On checking the Cura site, it said that the limit was 30K faces. That may be a limitation only of the version of Cura that I have (it is for a Fokoos Odin-5 printer).</p>
|
2020-12-21T23:44:15.693 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>How do I improve/increase shell coverage so that it covers the entire inner wall?
I've experimented with shell settings, but I can't seem to get it right.</p>
<p>I'm using Creality Slicer 4.2.1 (Cura)</p>
<p>Picture showing the areas in question below:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ahWw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ahWw.jpg" alt="Areas in question highlighted with blue boxes" /></a></p>
| 15080 | Shell doesn't cover the entire inner wall at some areas | <p>You should increase the top layer thickness <a href="https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Shell-settings" rel="nofollow noreferrer">according to Ultimaker Cura support</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<h1>Top/bottom thickness</h1>
<p>With the top/bottom thickness you can set the thickness of the solidly printed top and bottom layers of the print. A higher value ensures all gaps on the top and bottom layers are closed completely. However, this can also increase the print time and amount of filament used.</p>
<p>It is advised to always use a multiple of the layer height for the thickness of the top and bottom. This means, for example, that with a layer height of 0.15 mm, it’s better to set the top/bottom thickness to 0.6 mm rather than 0.7 mm.</p>
</blockquote>
|
2020-12-22T19:24:37.510 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>Simple question, I want to move my printer head up when the print finishes instead of to the side.
Where's the option to do this in Cura?</p>
| 15087 | How to move Z up after printing in Cura? | <p>Go towards the right top corner. Click on the printer name. From the drop down, select, "Manage printers". You will get a dialogue box in the middle of your screen. Your current printer's name will be shown in italics. On the right side of the dialogue box, click on, "Machine settings". This will open another dialogue box. In the lower left, you will see a text box with the heading, "End G-Code" scroll down to where you see the line, "<code>G1 X0 Y0</code>". This is the line that moves your print head to the lower left corner. <code>G1</code> is the command for a linear move. <code>X0</code> and <code>Y0</code> are move instructions to move the the 0 coordinate for the two axes. Change this line to <code>G1 Znn</code> where "nn" is the number of the coordinate you wish to move to. Close this dialogue, close the previous dialogue and all newly sliced file will now use this code.</p>
<p>If like to keep track of any changes you make, you can put a semi-colon at the beginning of the line. This turns the line into a comment and will not be actioned. Then press enter and on a new line, put the line, <code>G1 znn</code>.</p>
|
2020-12-23T17:06:50.523 | |hotend| | <p>High temperature PTFE tape is rated up to 550°F, which is 288°C. I'm wondering if it would be useful for components on the hot end to prevent oozing. Has anyone tried it?</p>
| 15095 | What happens if you use high temperature PTFE tape with the heater block? | <p>Whether this is even potentially beneficial depends on the type of hotend you're using. With one like the Ender 3 where the PTFE tube butts all the way against the nozzle, it's not useful, and if it seems useful it means your hotend is misassembled, since filament is never supposed to make contact with the top of the threads.</p>
<p>For an all metal hotend with flaws in the mating surfaces, it's plausible that it might help, but it rather defeats the purpose of having all metal (high temp).</p>
|
2020-12-23T21:09:16.677 | |prusa-i3| | <p>I need a Prusa MK3S smooth bed and I am not able to get it unless I wait for a few month.</p>
<p>But I can have a <code>Heated Bed Cover for Ender 3/Ender 3 pro/Ender 5 3D Printer 235X235MM</code> shipped to my door tomorrow moring.</p>
<p>Can I use the above Creality bed on MK3S untill I get an original MK3S in a few month?</p>
| 15097 | Can I use Creality bed on Prusa MK3S? | <h1>Heaters won't match.</h1>
<p>The ender3 is a 24 V machine. The Prusa 3 is a 12 V machine. Heater cartridges and Heatbeds are therefore not interchangeable.</p>
<h1>Build surfaces can be adapted.</h1>
<p>The Ender3 has a build surface that is a little bigger than the Prusa3, and thus you can, in a pinch, use an ender3 sized build surface and install it, possibly cut down, to fit onto the Prusa.</p>
|
2020-12-24T13:18:42.023 | |troubleshooting|hotend| | <p>Thinking this over, the best place to seal the hotend is between the throat tube and nozzle. What are the advantages/disadvantages of an integrated nozzle and throat to make this seal? Does a throat with a Teflon tube improve this seal? Is it reasonable to cut a gasket out of 3mm ID 5mm OD Teflon tubing to make the seal for M6 thread parts?
I intend these questions to all address the main question to prevent a leaky hot end.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WK1Ac.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WK1Ac.png" alt="Throat Tube" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3jiO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c3jiO.png" alt="nozzle" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOAYX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOAYX.png" alt="Integrated throat a nozzle" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3FpJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3FpJ.png" alt="Throat with Teflon tube" /></a></p>
| 15101 | What technics are you using to seal between the throat tube and nozzle? | <p>A seal between the heat break and nozzle should be achieved by tightening them while the hotend is hot. After assembling the (cold) hotend, heat it up to somewhat above the highest temperature you will print at and then tighten the nozzle some more. When it cools down again, you will have a very tight seal. If the nozzle still leaks after this tightening then it is defective.</p>
<p>Using teflon is possible but will limit the maximum temperature you can use your hotend at safely and you won't be able to print some higher temperature materials.</p>
|
2020-12-24T14:50:40.900 | |ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3| | <p>I'm getting weak prints on Ender 3 Pro with Cura after Cura upgrade.</p>
<p>Prints on my Ender 3 Pro have been good until I was forced to update Cura due to having to update the OS on my laptop. Now my prints are weak even after using Infill 50 % from 20 %.</p>
<p>Upgraded to Cura 4.8.0.</p>
<p>I noticed that it seems my print settings were saved from the older non-working Cura version. I went ahead and printed an XYZ Cube with the same settings from my older Cura version where prints were printing fine/acceptable. It fell apart as I tried to lift it off the build plate so I printed a second XYZ Cube with 50 % infill from previous 20 % pictured below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hnqO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hnqO.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The above print is noticeably weak, with layers not bonding or maybe something else.</p>
<p>Below is an image of when an XYZ Cube printed with my older Cura version. It is not perfect but it is much stronger without visible separation and actually noticeably heavier than the grey XYZ Cube printed with Cura 4.8.0 :</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z0Mon.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z0Mon.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The green and the grey 1.75 mm PLA I use and shown in the photos are different brands but both printed very much the same with the older Cura version.</p>
<p>I'm thinking this is an issue with the new Cura 4.8.0 that I'm using as nothing about my printing has changed besides the new Cura version assuming that my original print settings were saved which it looks to me that they were.</p>
<p>Has anyone had a similar issue or is there a known fix for this?</p>
<hr />
<p><em>Posting settings pics below:</em></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkGz5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkGz5.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnXOD.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnXOD.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>12/28/20 :
Went to <a href="https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html</a> and noted that they mention to use the Cura 4.8.0 Built-In profiles. Below are two pics of test print while using Cura 4.8.0's Built-In Standard Profile :</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2Dd0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2Dd0.jpg" alt="Cura 4.8.0 Standard Profile" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i8m.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i8m.jpg" alt="Cura 4.8.0 Standard Profile" /></a></p>
<p>12/29/20 :</p>
<p>Screenshot showing Nozzle Diameter (still using the 0.4 mm stock nozzle) & Flow @ 100 %. Please let me know if these are not the correct settings you asked me to look in :</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cq4yH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cq4yH.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15104 | Ender 3 Pro Weak Prints after Cura upgrade | <p>Total user error on my end. With the new version of this app somehow I did not catch that material selected on the UI dropdown was set to some custom material and not Generic PLA. Once I selected the proper material, all worked as expected.</p>
|
2020-12-24T21:21:37.837 | |creality-ender-3|g-code| | <p>I have an Ender 3 Pro and I have been able to get it to work quite well, I installed a 0.8 mm nozzle to try the Vase mode in Cura. I re-leveled the bed and when I tried to print, I got some very strange behavior.</p>
<p>When it starts the "purge line" along the side of the bed, the Z-axis is too high and instead of going down the left side and back up, it will go down the left side and then from left to right along the back edge and then stop and then just extrude filament. If I look at the beginning portion of the G-code it doesn't look any different than the G-Code for the other models I have printed except for in the initialization script it set the Layer height and Min Z to 0.32 instead of 0.2 and the code for drawing the first 2 purge lines is identical. I tried printing an older file that worked correctly and I got the same results where it went along the left side then along the back side and stopped and just extruded filament.</p>
<p>It seems like something in the printer went wonky? What would cause this and what is the fix? A reset of some sort? And how is that accomplished?</p>
| 15105 | Ender 3 Pro not interpreting G-code correctly? | <p>It ended up being something with the printer, I powered it down, let it set a few minutes and then powered it up and it printed correctly. Is there a way to "reset" it without the power cycle, and is this something common? Thanks for the response!</p>
|
2020-12-26T12:34:09.387 | |nozzle|fdm|maintenance| | <p>Are there quantitative means of measuring nozzle wear? What steps do you perform to measure this? If so?</p>
<p>I have some digital calipers, but I don't have much confidence in the measurements taken, as it's almost impossible to ensure the nozzle aperture is entirely free of filament residue.</p>
<p>The context here is I've recently been trying out some carbon-fiber-infused PLA filament, but I would like to keep an eye on how much it wears the nozzle and get an idea of nozzle wear rates. I can then work out if the mechanical and aesthetic qualities of the CF filament are worthwhile.</p>
| 15111 | Are there quantitative means of measuring nozzle wear? | <p>Based on CNC Kitchen measurements,</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uvlMeTnjriQ?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>the wear can be initially estimated by judging the overall length of the nozzle. Abrasive particles wear the nozzle very little on the channel (so the diameter doesn't change, for a while) but they wear out the outer surface in contact with the printed part, resulting in a shortening.</p>
<p>Of course, once the shortening gets severe, the diameter will increase because you reach the inner chamber.</p>
|
2020-12-27T00:35:40.840 | |marlin|stepper-driver|arduino-mega-2650|kossel| | <p>I have an Anycubic Kossel with Trigorilla Motherboard, Mega2560+RAMPS1.4.</p>
<p>I'm using <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3661097" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin 2_0_bugfix</a></p>
<p>My Y connector is not working anymore so I would like to use E1 connector as Y.
I found a very good solution <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/how-to-switch-motor-outputs-and-use-e1-as-x-in-marlin-firmware">here</a> but for me for some reason it's not working.</p>
<p>I did that modification what suggested in the pins_RAMPS.h file (for Y of course instead of X), then I compiled it with Arduino 1.8.13 and uploaded to my printer.</p>
<p>After that I flashed firmware then Y (which I plugged to E1) is not moving anywhere. I have never plugged anything to E1 before, so I think the connector port must be good and working.</p>
<p>What I am missing, what's my mistake?</p>
<p>What I did:</p>
<pre><code>#define Y_STEP_PIN 36
#define Y_DIR_PIN 34
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN 30
#ifndef Y_CS_PIN
#define Y_CS_PIN 44
#endif
#define E1_STEP_PIN 60
#define E1_DIR_PIN 61
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 56
#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
#define E1_CS_PIN 49
#endif
</code></pre>
| 15116 | Marlin: Switch Y to E1 | <p>If you followed <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/how-to-switch-motor-outputs-and-use-e1-as-x-in-marlin-firmware">the answer to switch steppers in firmware</a> to the letter, but changing X for Y, this should work.</p>
<p>I've looked into the pins files for you and concluded that your proposed changes should work.</p>
<p>This leaves you with the following questions:</p>
<ul>
<li>Is the stepper driver for E1 working?</li>
<li>Is there a stepper driver installed?</li>
<li>Is the cable working/not damaged?</li>
</ul>
<p>Swap drivers and cables to troubleshoot the problem.</p>
|
2020-12-27T02:36:01.657 | |extruder|stepper-driver|hardware|full-graphic-smart-controller| | <p>I am interested in buying a larger printer, either a Sovol SV01 or a Sunlu S8 (or something else similar).</p>
<p>What I am wondering is, can the control boards and LCD displays be changed to better units later on?</p>
<p>How much are parts interchangeable?</p>
<p>Can the frame, steppers, extruder, base-heater and power supply be run with any control board which has enough outputs? How does this work?</p>
<p>I'm particularly interested in adding silent stepper drivers and BLTouch later on, neither of these units are very popular so not a lot of after market parts are out which list compatibility.</p>
| 15118 | Are control boards switchable? | <p>Yes. Stepper motors, heaters, temperature sensors, fans, etc... are all standard parts. Pretty much any control board can be used with the hardware from pretty much every printer.</p>
<p>Some more expensive printers might use more exotic parts (especially temperature sensors), but on the budget printers you're looking at I would be very surprised to find anything non-standard.</p>
|
2020-12-27T12:39:38.463 | |creality-ender-3|adhesion| | <p>I'm pretty new to 3D printing, so I'm looking for some tips with following problem I have.
I'm trying to print following model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671256" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671256</a> on my Ender 3 v2.</p>
<p>But as soon as the print reaches the body and the first layer parts are attached, the print comes loose from the bed and the print will be dragged by the nozzle.
If you look at the picture you can see the bending of the front paws of the sculpture. So they don't stay sticked onto the bed.</p>
<p>I have changed the model to be 80 % in size, but also upped the bed temperature from 50 to 75 °C.
Running at 50 °C was even worse...</p>
<p>My printed 20x20x20 mm test cube was flawless by the way.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcXD1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcXD1.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15120 | Layer bending with first layer not sticking | <p>Try a Brim (the model is rather tricky on FDM), which can help with bad adhesion.
Your first laser appears coarse and not "smooched" as it should. This hints that you leveled either high, or you hit the portal off-angle. If it is just high leveling, a tiny turn "up" can help a lot.</p>
<p>The model has some rather flat overhangs, like the mouth, chin, under the tails and lower body. I suggest printing that with support turned on.</p>
<p>For PLA Filament, I use 200°C nozzle with 60°C bed, so unless you go far beyond that, your print should work.</p>
<p>Last words: that the model you chose was made with resin printing in mind, so you will use some details.</p>
|
2020-12-27T17:16:29.543 | |ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|print-failure| | <p>I am currently making an ironman helmet but running into a couple problems.</p>
<p>Whenever I start my print it starts off fine, but then after it builds the bottom support and starts on the build itself things get really wonky. It seems that the build gradually builds away from the support and starts to float in the air.</p>
<p>I also see an issue where the model starts to curve and the filament isn't sticking to the support instead it makes a straight line through the curve.</p>
<p>Lastly the support column on the bottom left starts to clump up.</p>
<p>I am using an Ender 3 printer and Cura.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/88oIN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/88oIN.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15124 | Issues with my print | <p>You are experiencing layer shifting, please check the tension of the X-axis belt, driver current.</p>
<hr />
<p><em>A more elaborated answer is found <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/500">here</a>.</em></p>
|
2020-12-28T02:12:16.623 | |ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3| | <p>I haven't ran into the issue yet, but I am sort of expecting it to here soon towards the end of my print. Actually, I am not even sure if it should be something that I should be worried about or not.</p>
<p>Basically I have some overhang on a helmet piece (it's a vent piece) and I see that there is a 90 % degree overhang. It doesn't look too big but just curious if this should be something that I should be worried about. I forgot to add support in the vent, it's my own fault and I'm definitely going to fix this in my next print for sure, but do you all think it will fail if I keep the current print going?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3LV5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot showing unsupported overhanging vent"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3LV5.png" alt="Screenshot showing unsupported overhanging vent" title="Screenshot showing unsupported overhanging vent" /></a></p>
<p>I use Cura, Meshmaker, and I have an Ender 3 printer.</p>
<p>I'm just getting started with 3D printing so I wasn't sure if I should be concerned or not.</p>
| 15127 | Overhang Question | <p>I wouldn't worry about that overhang. It should settle in a few layers. Just make sure you have a decent cooling fan on it.
Given the fact that you are making a helmet, I assume you are going to sand and apply putty to the whole thing at least 2 times and then sand in increasing grit. A little filing on that overhang will be an easy task.</p>
|
2020-12-29T13:19:13.127 | |marlin|firmware|tevo-tarantula|print-axis-offset| | <p>I am trying to correct the x&y offsets in the Tevo Tarantula that I got from a friend in order that my printer is not printing over the end.
What I got so far is that I need to measure and then enter the offsets into my configuration.h file, build the firmware and flash it to the board.</p>
<p>Because I do not have and can not find the original firmware I found the repository from <a href="https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Jim Brown</a> for the Tarantula.</p>
<p>Looking into the top section of the config file provided by the repo, the board configured is</p>
<pre><code>#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_13 // Original controller board with built in stepper drivers. Works with MKS BASE 1.3, 1.4
</code></pre>
<p>However since the board in my Tarantula has 1.2 on it I checked the boards.h file for MKS but could not find the v1.2 :</p>
<pre><code>#define BOARD_MKS_BASE 40 // MKS BASE v1.0
#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_15 405 // MKS v1.5 with Allegro A4982 stepper drivers
#define BOARD_MKS_BASE_HEROIC 41 // MKS BASE 1.0 with Heroic HR4982 stepper drivers
#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_13 47 // MKS GEN v1.3 or 1.4
#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L 53 // MKS GEN L
#define BOARD_MKS_GEN_L_V2 54 // MKS GEN L V2
#define BOARD_ZRIB_V20 504 // zrib V2.0 control b
</code></pre>
<p>Any idea, what board configuration would be compatible for 1.2? Or is there any other way to correct the x&y offsets other then compiling them into the firmware?</p>
| 15143 | What is the correct Marlin firmware setting for Tevo Tarantula with MKS Base V1.2 board | <p>The MKS Base v1.2 is basically an Arduino MEGA2560 and a RAMPS1.4 on a single board.</p>
<p>You can use the RAMPS pin designation.</p>
<p>Note that the endstop to origin distances is explained in question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset">How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)</a>.</p>
<p>In Jims Marlin fork you can find this at:</p>
<pre><code>#define X_MIN_POS 0 - XTRA_BED_LEFT
</code></pre>
<p>and</p>
<pre><code>#define Y_MIN_POS 0 - XTRA_BED_BACK
</code></pre>
<p>Unfortunately, <code>XTRA_BED_LEFT</code> and <code>XTRA_BED_BACK</code> are defined as zero; this implies that the endstops define the origin (not likely) or it is left as an excercise for you to find out. <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/how-to-center-my-prints-on-the-build-platform-re-calibrate-homing-offset/6376#6376">This answer</a> explains how you figure that out.</p>
|
2020-12-29T20:53:37.697 | |post-processing|resin|uv-printer| | <p>I'm relatively new to SLA 3D printing and 3D printing in general. I got a budget SLA resin printer that I've been messing with for a few months now.</p>
<p>So I had a few soft prints laying around that have not been exposed to any UV light. It was sunny out and I decided to bring them outside to harden them up a little bit under the sun. And of course I forgot about them! By the time I remembered, my prints got over cured to the point of being super brittle.</p>
<p><strong>Question:</strong> Let's say I properly cure a print (however that is). I'm not looking to paint it. It looks like the print could be accidentally over cured by taking it outside or sunlight shining from an open window. Is that true? Should I coat it with some kind of sealant if I'm done curing it?</p>
| 15148 | Accidentally over curing a 3D print | <p>You are correct, you can over cure a print by leaving it out in the sun. Prints can even over cure just by the ambient light in a room from the sun (though it would take a while).</p>
<p>One easy option to counter this <a href="https://www.krylon.ca/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coating</a> which can be found at most hardware stores. I have used it but I found that it made my print a little softer this may have been because of the materials in the spray-can, or the type of resin I printed with.</p>
<p>You should check out the answer posted to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14928/clear-coating-resin-3d-prints">Clear coating resin 3D prints</a> as it provides some other options you can try as well such as using a brush on option.</p>
|
2020-12-31T05:12:19.470 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting| | <p>I've printed the dog that came on the SD card of my new Ender 3 pro, and everything worked great. Today, I turned on the unit and plugged in a Raspberry PI Zero to the Ender's USB port. The rPi is running the latest version of OctoPrint.</p>
<p>Now, when I try to Auto home, I hear a very brief sound of a motor staring to move on an axis, and then the Ender halts. I've power cycled it several times. When I trying to use the panel on the Ender to move on any axis the same thing happens: it sounds like it's starting to move, and then never actually tries to move again until after I power cycle. This is the same no mater which axis I try to move.</p>
<p>I've reinstalled the lated firmware on the Ender. I've opened up the machine to make sure that all of the cables are attaches to the motherboard. I've checked the actuation of the stopper switches and unplugged the switch and motor connectors.</p>
| 15162 | No movement on any axis on Ender 3 Pro | <p>I upgraded to the latest firmware, and now everything works again.</p>
|
2021-01-02T00:02:00.683 | |stl|part-identification| | <p>I've searched, and surprisingly I am not able to find this design on Thingiverse:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ne732.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ne732.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Where can I find this 3d model?</p>
| 15177 | Looking for this stl design for a cellphone clamp | <p>This file simply is not on Thingiverse. Not all files are on Thingiverse.</p>
<p>A Google reverse-image-search for that picture in all size told me that the image stems from an <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/best-3d-printer-camera-monitor-3d-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">all3dp article</a>, and they have a reference link to <a href="https://assets.pinshape.com/uploads/image/file/155113/universal-phone-tripod-mount-3d-printing-155113.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pinshape</a> as it is presented here:</p>
<p><a href="https://all3dp.com/2/best-3d-printer-camera-monitor-3d-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gaM8I.png" alt="As seen on all3dp" /></a></p>
<p>The file name of the linked picture is <code>universal-phone-tripod-mount-3d-printing-155113.jpg</code></p>
<p>Taking that as a search term lead me to pinshape model <a href="https://pinshape.com/items/37196-3d-printed-universal-phone-tripod-mount" rel="nofollow noreferrer">37196: 3d printed universal phone-tripod mount</a> by <a href="https://pinshape.com/users/220819-jakejake" rel="nofollow noreferrer">jakejake</a></p>
|
2021-01-02T00:50:37.960 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>I keep having a recurring problem with my ender 3 pro. The bowden tube keeps popping off here (pictured)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWvUQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWvUQ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>I've read elsewhere online where people are having a similar problem, i.e. the ptfe tube is actually popping out, but I don't know if thats the case here. It's staying attached to the metal coupler, but that metal coupler is unscrewing during the course of the print and falling out. Any tips to fix it? New one? Some sort of loc-tite to get it to not unscrew? Any ideas?</p>
| 15180 | Ender 3 Bowden tube popping off | <p>The fitting can be defective and no longer hold upon the PTFE tube anymore. In that case, you need to cut off a short piece of the tube and most likely replace the fitting.</p>
<p>If the metal coupler <em>unscrews</em> you can fix that by properly screwing it <em>tight</em>. If it does not stay put after applying some torque upon it, then the screw thread is broken, and the whole extruder gearing-setup needs to be replaced. An aluminium swap part costs about 10 to 15 €.</p>
|
2021-01-02T21:30:34.637 | |hotend|thermistor|creality-ender-5| | <p>I have a base model Ender 5 with the silent v4.2.7 board.</p>
<p>Earlier this week during an overnight print, I came in to find it unfinished and powered off. I turned it back and it complained about an outage. When I started warming the hotend, it squealed and turned itself back off and then back on.</p>
<p>Now anytime, I try to warm up the hotend, I get the same.</p>
<p>I set up the printer to give data me debugging data via the console in Pronterface and in Simplify3D. I don't receive any kind of error, the printer just powers off and then back on.</p>
<p>I'm hoping that the thermister is just dead and I can replace it easily enough. What I'm afraid of is that the board itself is dead. BTW, I am able to warm up the bed with no problem, just not the hot end. Any insight would be appreciated.</p>
| 15184 | Dead thermister or dead board on Ender 5? | <p>"Heater core" wires are <strong>not the same</strong> as thermistor wires, are they?</p>
<h2>Check if thermistor is properly connected?</h2>
<p>Reading -14 C in my case always pointed a disconnection of thermistor. (I didn't had a case of broken one so far.) In case of short it would probably show som max temperature (my guess, I dont want to try), but it is always good to check if wires are do not touch each other and are properly insulated?</p>
<h2>Measure thermistor's resistance</h2>
<p>If you are able to use multimeter, then:</p>
<ul>
<li>disconnect thermistor from the printer board</li>
<li>set multimeter to resistance measurement (200k Ohms)</li>
<li>connect thermistor and multimeter using wires - the ones having aligator clips would be the best</li>
<li>read resistance measurent</li>
</ul>
<p>My spare shows 97k Ohms in room conditions. So value should be high (you may refer to specs sheet of given type when in doubt).</p>
<h2>Check that hotend is actually powered</h2>
<p>If thermistor is OK, then indeed the hotend powering may be broken. Ths definitely require skills and may introduce many risks to electronics and maybe even to your health - but if you are skilled enough, you may measure with voltmeter if there is correct voltage provided to the hotend. For example the MOSFET on the board may be broken (I already replaced one in the past for my heated bed).</p>
|
2021-01-02T22:15:20.677 | |filament|temperature| | <p>I am new to 3D printing and have a newish Eryone Thinker SE. Its been printing fine with some Eryone Glitter Black (EGB) and I'm happy with the results.</p>
<p>The spool has now finished and I'm trying to use some black Tinmorry and/or Sunlu - both rolls are displaying the same issue.</p>
<p>I can load and purge the new filament just fine but starting a print immediately after results in no filament being extruded.</p>
<p>I have unloaded/reloaded, purged and retried a few times to no success. I also switched back to the take end of the EGB with success.</p>
<p>Extruder temperature is 205 °C. Is this just too cold for the new spools?</p>
| 15186 | Purge okay but not extruding during printing | <p>So, I was able to fix this (or it fixed itself overnight as these things sometimes do) with a 5°C increase in extruder temperature to 210°C. The Sunlu PLA filament specifies 200°C - 230°C as its print range.</p>
<p>I followed the advice of a IRL friend who suggested "What happens if you raise the z a bit so you can see the nozzle and keep raising the heat until it starts to come out on its own. Check temp and then run a print at that temp."</p>
<p>I only needed that 5°C increase before I could see it oozing. From there I was able to successfully print a calibration cube and further model.</p>
|
2021-01-04T09:58:19.717 | |creality-ender-3|adhesion| | <p>I've been trying to print some M14 female threads. The male threads I've printed were perfect and fit into a female metal nut, but for some reason I cannot get the female threads to "stick". This means that they end up being hard to screw into, or the male end (both metal and my printed versions) goes in wonky.</p>
<p>I'm printing in PLA on an Ender 3 V2 at 200 °C on a 50 °C bed. I've tried various resolutions (down to 0.1 mm layer height) and they all exhibit the issue. Print speed is 50 mm/s, cooling is just the stock cooling and fan 100 % after the first layer.</p>
<p>The actual file can be found <a href="https://easyupload.io/93i2lh" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> (note that it's slightly oversized vs a metric M14 female to allow for printer tolerances) and the follow image shows what I'm talking about:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbNOn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbNOn.png" alt="Example" /></a></p>
<p>It's as though the nozzle is pulling the filament away from the wall, but I've tried Z Hop Retraction and combing (infill only) and that gives the same result.</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong> The accepted answer and the comments against the question pointed me in the right direction. A combination of turning off combing and reducing the hot end temp to 190°C gave me perfect threads in 3 consecutive prints.</p>
| 15194 | Internal thread not sticking to inner wall | <p>I do a lot with printed threads, and find this problem creeps up mostly when the filament is wet. Higher temperature (like 220) can partly compensate but it's better to dry your filament and store it properly to keep it dry.</p>
<p>Assuming standard metric thread profile, though, these are also pretty severe overhangs for a concave extrusion (where motion of the head will tend to pull the way you're seeing) unless you use very thin layers. You probably need 0.16 mm or thinner to print reliably (independent of pitch, though finer pitch also needs finer layers for other reasons), and limited acceleration for outer walls (I use 500 mm/s²). If you slice with "outer walls first" turned off, you may be able to get by with thicker layers, provided you have everything else tuned perfectly to ensure the outer wall sticks to the previously extruded inner one (i.e. flow rate perfect).</p>
<p>A contributor to your problem could also be underextrusion due to oozing during combing. You might try setting max comb distance very low (like 0.6 mm, around what I use) or turning off combing and see if that helps.</p>
|
2021-01-04T14:04:54.560 | |hotend|all-metal-hotend| | <p>One could make such a controller with 3D printer parts and building a case for them, but is it significantly less than just buying a compatible low-cost printer. The intent is to heat up the all-metal hot end to tighten the nozzle to the heater break.</p>
| 15197 | Is it practical to build a separate hotend temperature controller to assemble hotends without taking up printer time? | <p>You can get a suitable board for $20 or so, print a case for a few cents, and either repurpose an old PC power supply or buy a new one just powerful enough for the hotend (not bed) heater very cheap, so I think it's a lot less costly than a cheap printer, and cobsumes less space. But I'm not clear what you need it for.</p>
|
2021-01-05T18:04:35.657 | |troubleshooting|g-code|knowledgebase| | <p>I want to write a couple of very simple G-code test cases in Marlin-Style to make sure my printer works properly. The idea is to test the movement system, then the end-stops, then the heating and ability to hold temperature. But Marlin already runs large, so I can't spare too many lines in the basic setup, if I want to integrate it into the firmware.</p>
<p>The test I have in mind is this order of operations, covering the basis of each axis and the thermal control:</p>
<ul>
<li>The printhead shall move up 20 mm, then right and forward the same.</li>
<li>the printhead shall home.</li>
<li>the printhead shall rise again by 20 mm.</li>
<li>The preheating shall be done (50°C bed, 180°C head).</li>
<li>The printer shall do nothing for 2 minutes.</li>
<li>The printer shall cool down.</li>
<li>Beep twice to signal that the test is concluded.</li>
</ul>
<p>What is the best way to set up such a test code in the least amount of lines? Did I forget a crucial test command?</p>
| 15213 | Writing G-Code: length-optimized Test code | <p>I can get down to 13(14) lines using 6 commands, one of which is optional: <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G1 movements,</a> <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G28 homing,</a> <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M140.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M140 setting the bed temperature without pause</a>, <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M109.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M109 to set the hotend temperature</a>, <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G004.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G4 dwell to pause</a>, and <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M300.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M300 to beep.</a></p>
<p>The line in [] is optional, but the nozzle isn't safe to touch right away - waiting for the cooldown ensures touch safety.</p>
<pre><code>G1 Z20 F1000 ; Movement Test Z
G1 X20 ; Movement Test X
G1 Y20 ; Movement Test Y
G28 ; Homing Test
G1 Z20 ; Movement up (safety measure)
M140 S50 ; Set Bed temperature to 50, directly goto next line
M109 R180 ; Set Nozzle temperature to 180, wait for achieving
G4 S60 ; Wait a minute (to see if nozzle temperature is held)
M140 S0 ; "turn off" bed
[ M109 R25 ; set nozzle temperature to 25C, wait for achieving ]
M109 S0 ; actually turn off nozzle!
M300 S440 P200 ; Beep
G4 P200 ; short pause
M300 S660 P200 ; Beep
</code></pre>
|
2021-01-05T20:56:39.513 | |creality-ender-3|z-axis| | <p>I'm having an issue with bed levelling since upgrading my stock <em>Ender 3 pro</em> to <em>Marlin 2.0.7.2</em>.</p>
<p>The upgrade process seems to have gone through fine, I get the new options and it shows the FW version when I power on. My issue however, is that after I auto home the printer, disable stoppers and then level the bed, using a piece of paper, any time I attempt to print the nozzle hits the bed which stops all flow as there's no space for the filament to come out.</p>
<p>This process is exactly the same as I used to do before the upgrade and I never had issues, only since the upgrade.</p>
<p>For reference, I've manually adjusted all the wheels on the printer so there's a large gap (for testing) between the paper and the nozzle at any point on the bed (the piece of paper passes below the nozzle with zero resistance). However, when I attempt a print, it homes the printer and then the nozzle drops lower and crushes any paper I put between the nozzle and the bed (I do this while testing so it doesn't damage the bed), the paper is impossible to move by hand.</p>
<p>Anyone know what I'm doing wrong here? None of the guides that I've found for installing <em>Marlin 2.x</em> on the <em>Ender 3 Pro</em> mention anything about having to make any changes to allow the Z axis to work like before so at a bit of a loss as to why this is happening.</p>
<hr />
<p>Something that occurred to me. I use PrusaSlicer as my slicer and I noticed that it has the following lines in the custom G-code for the template that I always use that reference "Z", now admittedly I'm no expert with G-codes but could it be either of these that's causing the issue:</p>
<pre><code>G1 Z2 F240
G1 Z0.28 F240
</code></pre>
<p>Edited to add full prusaslicer template gcode below:</p>
<p><strong>Start G-code</strong></p>
<pre><code>M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 ; home all
G1 Z2 F240
G1 X2 Y10 F3000
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 Y190 E15 F1500 ; intro line
G1 X2.3 F5000
G92 E0
G1 Y10 E15 F1200 ; intro line
G92 E0
</code></pre>
<p><strong>End G-code</strong></p>
<pre><code>{if max_layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+2, max_print_height)} F600{endif} ; Move print head up
G1 X5 Y170 F{travel_speed*60} ; present print
{if max_layer_z < max_print_height-10}G1 Z{z_offset+min(max_layer_z+70, max_print_height-10)} F600{endif} ; Move print head further up
M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M107 ; turn off fan
M84 X Y E ; disable motors
</code></pre>
<p><strong>Before layer G-code</strong></p>
<pre><code>;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0
;[layer_z]
</code></pre>
<p><strong>After layer G-code</strong></p>
<pre><code>;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;[layer_z]
</code></pre>
| 15214 | Z axis issue after upgrade from stock FW to Marlin 2.0.7.2 on Ender 3 Pro | <p>This seems like Z homing issue. Sounds pretty frustrating, so I will try to give some hints, though I do not have Ender 3. Also maybe my few questions will be helpful.</p>
<p>Did you "adjusted all the wheels on the printer" after the Z position was zeroed? This could be crucial, especially that firmware may raise Z up after homing (e.g. to 4mm). The G-Code you have sent makes simple Z moves: rises to 2mm, then lowers to 0.28 mm above the sea level (and F is denotion of speed). And obviously this should happen AFTER homing Z axis, not earlier - could you check earlier G-Code for G28 call?
If you can manually move the bed out of heatend's range (to avoid crashing it) then I suggest to use own file containing only two commands to experiment with Z homing only, e.g.:</p>
<pre><code>G90 ; absolute positioning (just to be sure it is not incremental G91)
G28 Z ; homing Z axis
G1 Z0.0 F100 ; firmware may have raised Z up slightly, so lower again to 0
</code></pre>
<p>If homing would cause the bed accident, than I am unfortunately right - or:</p>
<p>(Added after tracing real problem) Check if Z axis is not loose - e.g. coupler screws are tight - so Z axis cannot rotate on its own by gravity and wight of carrige. When Z steppers are enabled, you should not be possible to move carriage up and down with slight pressur of hands.</p>
<p>Does the printer react to Z endstop? This is first thing to check, actually. You can you press it with finger during Z homing to check if it would react properly (Z homing stopped).</p>
<p>If not, then... did you compile Marlin on your own? For example maybe the Z endstop is or should be inverted. More insight is needed then against the Configuration.h, e.g. file for Z_MIN_ENDSTOP settings. Would be good to have its version from previous firmware, or google some valid Ender 3 file to compare with.</p>
|
2021-01-06T02:00:01.897 | |slicing|flashforge|flashforge-dreamer| | <p>The image below I indicated where the point where the tip of my extruder returns after changing the layer height, I don't know if I am right to call this point "Start Point" ...</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZmgC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZmgC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The problem I am having is possible to see in the photo, because there is a slip of material and sometimes "webs" are created that compromise the quality of the print.</p>
<p>I tried to modify the retraction parameters, such as: speed and retraction length ...</p>
<p>Is there a parameter that I can modify to improve my print?</p>
<p>The slicer software I use is the : FlashPrint_4.5.1 (because I have a FlashForge Dreamer NX)</p>
| 15218 | Failure near the start point | <p>I have recently looked into "print outer walls first" in an attempt to make the seam vanish. But turning that setting on creates a webby structure on the following area for my printer.</p>
<p>Turning the setting off again (and reducing the outer wall speed to 30 mm/s) completely eliminated the ringing again.</p>
|
2021-01-06T08:15:42.343 | |diy-3d-printer|resin|sla| | <p>I want to build my own curing station for my resin printed parts.
I know there are a lot of prebuilt machines but they do not completely satisfy my needs.</p>
<p>I now want to know which material i can use to cover the chamber, but still be able to see inside.
The material should therefore block UV light but still be transparent.</p>
<ul>
<li>The material should be transparent to only light above the UV spectrum, but should block UV light (UV-A, UV-B if possible)</li>
<li>The material should be purchasable in sheets to be able to build a cover out of it (e.g. acrylic sheets)</li>
<li>the color is not relevant as long as you can see through it</li>
</ul>
<p>The questions is now, which material satisfies those points?
You can find reference on existing machines like the <a href="https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-mercury-plus-2-in-1-washing-and-curing-machine" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Elegoo Mercury Pro</a> or the <a href="https://formlabs.com/de/wash-cure/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Formlabs Form Wash</a>. Maybe somebody knows which material has been used by either one of them.</p>
| 15223 | How to block UV light (transparent material)? | <p>I contacted the manufacturers of curing stations directly and got some interesting feedback. Not all of them were keen on sharing their information, but two responded:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-mercury-plus-2-in-1-washing-and-curing-machine" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Elegoo</a> is using <strong>Polypropylene</strong></li>
<li><a href="https://www.creality.com/goods-detail/creality-uw-01-washing-curing-machine" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality</a> is using <strong>polycarbonate</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>I am sure they are using some additional UV blocking on the plastics with a coating, but thats all I could find out.
Thanks to @Greenonline for pointing me in the right direction!</p>
|
2021-01-06T13:09:21.887 | |petg|build-surface| | <p>This question doesn't necessarily have one answer. I'm looking for a build surface that doesn't tear up when removing the PETG print, but still holds the PETG down and keeps it from warping. I am printing PETG with the z-height almost too high. Higher causes the PETG not to stick and warp or even release during printing. But, I still have trouble with PETG prints tearing my build surface. I've tried PEI and black build surfaces that don't identify the material. The build plate on my hot bed is glass.</p>
| 15227 | What is the best build surface for PETG? | <p><strong>Removable steel spring sheet with PEI textured coatings</strong></p>
<p>I have been using textured PEI string sheet for most of my prints, just love it.
Prints attach so good but not hard to remove(with proper nozzole Z-offset).</p>
<p>If the prints are small and seems hard to remove,heating up the bed helps a lot.</p>
<p>Almost never used the smooth side, even with proper z-offset, it still damages the surface quite fast.</p>
<p>Here's the link i bought before:
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32986940303.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.538d6082oJJeV2&algo_pvid=ccd18793-4fca-4145-9db1-f3eb08bcc758&algo_expid=ccd18793-4fca-4145-9db1-f3eb08bcc758-2&btsid=0b86d81916099484894512885e7935&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Removal Spring Steel Sheet Pre-Applied PEI+Magnetic Base</a></p>
<p>This is my setup on a ender3pro:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PY2z.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3PY2z.jpg" alt="three layered setup" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7usS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7usS.jpg" alt="removable steel spring sheet" /></a></p>
|
2021-01-06T18:58:40.763 | |firmware|extrusion| | <p>I have two otherwise-identical machines (called "Lefty" and "Righty"), so I have a baseline to compare. I am running Marlin 2.0.7.2 on both machines. They are Creality CR-10 printers with BTT SKR e3 Mini v1.2 boards, with Marlin I compiled myself. Both machines are (as far as I know!) running the same exact firmware binary.</p>
<p>When running <strong>the same G-code</strong> on both printers, Lefty prints fine. But, Righty fires the plastic through -- I need to set the flow rate to 50 % (!) to be correct. I have checked the esteps, both are identical at 415, and this produces 39.5 mm of 40 mm commanded when bumped through 1 mm at a time via the extrusion menu, even on Righty. The XY movement on both machines is 100 % correct.</p>
<p>Volumetric extrusion is disabled in the firmware on both machines, and disabled in the slicer. Both machines are running TMC2209 drivers, set to Spread Spectrum at 650 mA for the extruder. Both machines are set to 1250 accel. The steppers are rated for 1 A, and they are not skipping steps.</p>
<p>The machines were working side-by-side perfectly until I killed Righty's stepper driver with static, and replaced the board. No other hardware was modified.</p>
<p>Why do both machines behave the same with identical G-code, until extrusion moves? Why does Righty try and extrude nearly double what it should be, only during printing, when Lefty works perfectly?</p>
| 15235 | e-steps are wrong only during printing moves | <p>Annoyingly, this went away with a replacement board. I don't have a better fix.</p>
|
2021-01-07T23:24:09.293 | |creality-ender-3|maintenance|belt| | <p>The Y-axis belt just broke on my Ender 3 v2. I believe that it was over tensioned from the factory. When I initially assembled the printer, I noticed that the Y-axis tensioner was tightened almost all the way. The belt itself felt very stiff. The X-axis belt, which I installed upon assembly, didn't require a lot of tightening. I have ordered replacement belt material and clips to make new belts.</p>
<p>What is the proper tension for both the X- and Y-axis belts?</p>
| 15247 | Proper belt tension for Ender 3 v2 | <p>Mine came from the factory tight enough that it doesn't sag at all, but not so tight that it feels hard or stiff or difficult to deflect a bit with gentle pressure. With the bed pushed all the way to the back, I can push the y-axis belt to the side about 1/8" with gentle pressure, and it feels like that's about as far as it's going to go even if I were to push harder. Seems to work really well without a lot of unnecessary force.</p>
|
2021-01-08T22:44:57.527 | |creality-ender-3|bltouch|bigtreetech| | <p>I have an Ender 3 Pro that I installed a BLTouch sensor on. After I auto-home, I level bed and it deploys the probe in the right spot, but doesn't go down far enough, then goes back up and stops leveling.</p>
<p>I am using the wiring for BLTouch for Z homing on <a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V1.2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SKR mini E3 v1.2</a>. I am using Marlin Bugfix-2.0 with BLTouch and a few other things enabled.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mWt4nngrnQvXDfSZE2WamGfrVnOf-52c?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration Files</a></li>
<li><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/45KrR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Video of Problem</a></li>
</ul>
| 15256 | BLTouch not touching bed while leveling | <p>I think I fixed everything. What I did is I used this guide <youtu.be/y_1Kg45APko> which was a guide by makes'n'breaks on setting the probe z-offset using pronterface and then reverted to the original firmware that was on this page<github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/…> Which was the marlin firmware for bltouch for z homing for my mainboard.</p>
|
2021-01-09T14:39:26.273 | |heated-bed|electronics| | <p>From my understanding, the power of heater must higher than heat dissipate to ambient air so the bed can heat up. The reason why a bed heats up too slowly is due to its heat capacity compared to heater power.</p>
<p>As the heater is a resistive load, I think we can put higher voltage to get more heating power.</p>
<p>The PCB heater has two parts: copper and laminate. The reason of failure is that the copper can come off the board due to high temperatures. In this case we can control temperature with firmware. The questions are:</p>
<ol>
<li>Will this method work?</li>
<li>What can go wrong or what is the risk of this method?</li>
</ol>
| 15263 | Can we apply more voltage to a PCB heated bed to get faster heating? | <p>You can add a boost converter to the bed's power supply. Assuming that you are using an external MOSFET to control the bed (and you should). Verify what the MOSFET's max voltage rating is, then obtain a boost converter and configure it to give a voltage that is 10% less than the max. I once used this technique when driving a 24V hot end heater using a 12V power supply. Be forewarned, however, the boost converter I was using exploded during use one day.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gAB6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3gAB6.png" alt="Commerical, inexpensive boost converter on Amazon" /></a></p>
<p>Or you could get an additional higher voltage PSU and use that as the bed's heater. They make them up to 80V I think now.</p>
|
2021-01-10T22:31:08.937 | |print-quality|creality-ender-3|layer-shifting| | <p>I first want to say <strong>thank you</strong> for taking the time to read this. I've been trying to print out some parts for another project of mine. These parts use up around 70% of the bed so they are fairly large, unlike the smaller trinkets and things I normally print.</p>
<p>However, I have yet been able to print one of these larger parts without any layer shifting. The part I've been trying to print is a lid to the bottom of a case. It's square, with rounded corners, about 160mm x 160mm.</p>
<p>It will print the first layer without shifting most of the time. However, upon starting the second layer it will almost have at least one layer shift. I have tried a number of things to remedy this, which I will list further down this post.</p>
<p>The layer shifting seems to be unrelated to jerk, acceleration, bed shifting, and z offset at the very least. There is an audible clunk sound that can be heard when it does this. In the image I've linked, you can see the correct path of the print head through the green arrows. However, upon a layer shift, it follows the path of the red arrows. It never shifts during a direction change, only when it is following a straight path. It's almost as if one of the motors gives up for a second. I am aware the print is under extruded, this is one of my trials hoping it was merely the nozzle clipping against the print.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltqzA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltqzA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Allow me to share with you my setup:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>I have an Ender 3 V2, with the stock mainboard, stock glass bed, and stock hotend.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've replaced the extruder assembly with an all-metal one from Creality.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I have the stiffer bed springs. As well as the better PTFE tube fittings and Capricorn tubes.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've put together a cooling pack on Thingiverse. <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4644985" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4644985</a> The mainboard and hotend fans were replaced with Noctua performance fans that I'll talk more about later.</p>
</li>
<li><p>The hotend assembly is a hero me gen 5 with dual 4010 fans and a BLTouch.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I'm using Smith3D's 5x5 high-speed firmware (Previously the 4x4 high speed).</p>
</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<p>Now let me share my tried solutions.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>I firstly, disassembled the printer, checking all belt teeth and motor gears (which are pressed onto their shafts without a grub screw). Afterward, I readjusted all eccentric nuts to get the perfect amount of tension while maintaining smooth operation on both X and Y axes. I've used brake cleaner and dish soap to remove the grease on the Z-axis lead screw and replaced it with WD-40 dry lubricant.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Continuing, I've releveled the bed and checked all axis operation to ensure it was smooth and without any bumps, hitches, or anything of the sort.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<ol>
<li><p>I tightened all the frame screws, hotend screws, fan screws, grub screws. Nothing moves even a millimeter.</p>
</li>
<li><p>The belts were tensioned so that they can be strummed like a guitar string when I move either the hotend or bed to its end stop.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I checked my aftermarket fans to ensure they are working. The mainboard and hotend fan run nonstop at their optimal 12V. The PSU fan turns on and off as it needs to cool the PSU...</p>
</li>
<li><p>The cables are nicely managed in the mainboard compartment and I'm sure that the larger fans provide it plenty of airflow. Not to mention the printer was raised by the use of squash-ball feet.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I have slowed my print speed from 75mm/s to 60mm/s with this print. This means a 30mm/s inner/outer wall along with 60mm/s infill speed and 150mm/s travel speed. Acceleration and jerk are at their defaults: 500mm/s^2 and 10mm/s.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've adjusted my Z offset so that it slightly under extrudes to prevent the filament from bunching up.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've calibrated my e steps.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've formatted the SD card and changed my firmware from Smith 3D's 4x4 high speed to 5x5 high speed.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've updated Cura to the latest version 4.8 and ensured my hero me home offset is correct.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've tried moving the model to different corners in Cura and ensured the software's jerk and acceleration control are disabled.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've checked the bed movement with its clips, it doesn't move easily and both clips have very good tension.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've checked the stepper driver voltages (I did not change them). E: 1.34V Z: 1.16V Y: 0.99V X: 1.15V.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I have Z hop enabled with a 0.2mm hop, no issues or noises when it moves across the print.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've purchased a filament dry-box from SUNLU along with a new spool of SUNLU black filament. The dry box has Capricorn PTFE tubing that leads the filament straight into the extruder. There is very little friction inside the tube.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've slightly tightened the tension on the extruder although I didn't have problems with it skipping.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<hr />
<p>Again, I'd like to reiterate, nothing is loose on this printer, it doesn't skip when it rapidly changes directions, only when following either a straight or diagonal line. The printer movement is very smooth and near-silent with all of my modifications. It's frustrating to me that I can't solve this problem. I feel like the printer has a mind of its own. I have begun to suspect either the mainboard or something else hardware related is amiss. However, I have chosen not to mess with it until posting this. If you've read through this, <strong>I thank you for your patience and time reading it</strong>.</p>
<hr />
<p>Any advice or possible causes to this problem are welcomed. I am at a complete loss and am desperate for a solution.</p>
| 15274 | Ender 3 V2 Layer Shifting, No Apparent Reason, Desperate | <p>Not sure if you're still actively working on this but my setup mirrors yours almost perfectly, I added an all metal extruder, Micro Swiss hotend, a BLTouch, yellow bed springs and Capricorn tube and got great results but needed more cooling so I changed to the Hero Me Gen 5 using 2 5015 blowers and a Noctua 40x20 fan with a buck converter set to 12 V and noticed I had shifting so I printed 35 mm standoffs and wired another Noctua fan, 80x25. It helped reduce shifting but still not perfect and I as well has combed through every possible issue.</p>
|
2021-01-11T09:34:20.120 | |adhesion| | <p>I'm struggling with bed adhesion for nylon on a glass bed (122 °C measured) in an enclosed chamber (45 °C near the front, likely more on top of the print bed). I used a glue stick to enhance adhesion, but after around 20 minutes the print comes off the bed.</p>
<p>I tried a <a href="https://www.123-3d.nl/123inkt-lijmstift-medium-21-grams-i1326-t7445.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">no-brand glue stick</a> and a <a href="https://www.123-3d.nl/Pritt-stick-medium-22-gram-i1329-t7445.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pritt glue stick</a>.</p>
<p>Now I wonder whether they are suitable for the purpose, because nylon should really be printable in these conditions. Maybe the glue cannot hold those 100+ °C temperatures.</p>
<p>How to find out whether a glue stick is PVA-based and suitable for nylon (or polycarbonate, ABS) printing?</p>
| 15281 | Are all glue sticks PVA-based? How to find out? | <p>Not all Glues are PVA based. There is one glue manufacturer call CGMaxed that makes an alcohol based PVB glue. Sold on Ebay exclusively for 22 dollars per 6 oz. I use it every day when my supports fail to stick or having levelling issues.</p>
|
2021-01-11T18:43:41.373 | |heat-management|enclosure| | <p>Hopefully this isn't against the rules as it may fall under "opinion" more than a concrete answer, but I'll ask anyway.</p>
<p>I live near Boston and it gets cold here. My Ender 3 Pro is out in a detached garage with no heat and I'm pretty sure the garage getting down to about -12 °C (10 °F) has ruined a few prints for me. Also I'd love to print in ABS at home as well and I think I'd need an enclosure for that.</p>
<p>Now, the printer technically already has an enclosure. It's in a box made out of plywood with some clear acrylic doors on the front, but I think the box itself has too much extra room and doesn't retain heat well enough (thin plywood?).</p>
<p>So my question is, for anyone with experience printing in cold environments, what are some cheap/easy ways to keep the enclosure warm, preferably as safe as possible since I can't always watch the print. I have a small space heater in the garage but I turned it off last night because I wasn't sure how safe it'd be overnight and didn't want to start a fire.</p>
<p>Thoughts on stuff like "reflectix" liners for the enclosure that would help retain heat, small heaters, IR lamps, etc...? All preferably on the cheap side.</p>
| 15286 | Safe, cheap, heated enclosure solution for New England garage | <p>The easiest step would be to add some isolation on the outside of the box. If you have space inside, there might be a good spot to store some non-flammable insulation, for example rock or glassfiber wool.</p>
<p>A different material might also be possible - firebrick is not only non-flammable but also a very good insulator! about 2-3 inches of firebrick can contain the heat produced by a tempering oven while the outside is cool enough to be safe to touch with gloves.</p>
<p>However, you should install an extra thermosensor for the chamber temperature - and make sure that the printer enters print halt mode once the temperature in the chamber gets above a critical temperature to try to mitigate fire risks and possibly start a chamber-cooling protocol - which might include aborting the print or activating coolers that rapidly cool down the chamber.</p>
<p>As you pretty much are going heated chamber, you might find a spot when you might want to use a flexible hose to pull non-chamber air to supply the parts cooling fan.</p>
<p>Also, possibly relocate as much of the electronics to a compartment separate from the printer's heat chamber to ensure the electronics don't get cooked and can be supplied with cooler air.</p>
|
2021-01-13T18:52:46.597 | |print-quality|troubleshooting|print-material| | <p>I am working on refining my PMMA printing process and I am trying to print as close as possible to the theoretical 100 % density of the material. I am making good progress and am slowing increasing the extrusion multipliers to try and find a good set of print settings.</p>
<p>I recently have run into an issue where the bottom ≈1/3 of the test cylinder is coming out rather distorted (see picture). The problem seems to sort itself out as the finish around the top of the cylinder looks fine. Do any of you have any experience with PMMA or have seen this problem before?</p>
<p>My initial thought is that it is heat driven and as more material is added it becomes less of an issue as there is more mass to dissipate the heat. For reference I am printing on an Raise3D Pro2Plus, for my prints I am running the extruder at 250 °C and the heated bed at 100 °C. I am eventually going to need to print rather large cylinders and would like an even surface finish along the length of it.</p>
<p>Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ic9xH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ic9xH.jpg" alt="Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged" title="Test Cylinders, right and left show distortion on the bottom and the center shows a bizarre print where half of the cylinder was fine and half came out very jagged" /></a></p>
| 15309 | PMMA print distortion and inconsistencies | <p>Commercial PMMA may soften already at 85 °C.</p>
<p>The higher you go away from the bed, the colder the air is, so the issues solves itself.</p>
<p>Try lowering the bed temperature, at least to exclude that as cause.</p>
<p>The second cylinder shows the very common issue related to uneven cooling. Probably your part cooling fan is blowing only from one side. Try using a better fan shroud or add a second part cooling fan.</p>
|
2021-01-14T14:32:35.767 | |3d-design|speed| | <p>Let's say, I want to print a box for putting game tokens in.</p>
<p>It is an empty cube, but the top layer is missing.</p>
<p>I do not need full walls. It could have holes in it resulting in a mesh structured wall, like a fence or a shopping cart.</p>
<p>What pattern should I use for the best object stability and print speed?
What programs can I use to design this? (I do not want to manually add 100 holes in my design).</p>
| 15317 | Improving print speed by adding holes | <p>Definitely the speed will be worse after adding holes (or the quality otherwise, if object's skin is printed fast), though some filament savings may appear.</p>
<p>But regarding "object stability": because adding holes will normally cause the slower printing (because of "skin structures" around holes), then walls might get bit stronger or have better layer adhesion (comparing to line speed, the material, the printing temperature, etc.). Then stability might indeed improve, especially when walls are thin. Or may be reduced, depending on the pattern :) Also number of walls may count (n * nozzle diameter) or lack of skin overlap - then printing holes would support consistency of the structure. Thus the question of stability may be significant. Construction sience would most probably lead to <a href="https://sciencemadefun.net/blog/triangles-the-strongest-shape/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">triangles</a>.</p>
|
2021-01-14T22:32:30.443 | |pla|build-plate|temperature| | <p>I was having an issue with flat sheets raising up during initial layers. I had my bed at 80 °C and kept raising it thinking it was an issue with cold. After reducing the temperature to 50 °C the sheets sit flat now but sometimes sections come loose. I ended up using masking tape and a glue stick and everything finally seems to print flat and keep adhesion. I am using 210 °C hotend but I might try lowering it to 205 °C.</p>
<p>How do you check if your printing temperature is too hot/cold or if your bed temperature is too hot/cold? None of the articles I read ever said that a bed too hot would cause PLA to rise but that's what happened.</p>
| 15323 | How to tell if PLA temp is too hot/cold | <h1>Too Hot</h1>
<p>If you're printing too hot (with any filament, not just PLA) you're going to see stringing and blobs/oozing because the material is getting runny and exiting the nozzle in an uncontrolled manner. Because it's uncontrolled, you will also likely see artifacts showing up in your prints.</p>
<p>You might also see your filament burning. Instead of coming out of the nozzle as whatever color it should be, it will look brown or discolored because it was overcooked.</p>
<p>If your bed is too hot, you might start to see "elephant's feet" where the lowest layer(s) are being heated to the point of becoming soft and the weight of layers on top of them are pushing down, causing that layer to "pooch out."</p>
<p>You might also have problems removing the print from the print bed's surface because the plastic has seeped into the details of the print surface and hardened, essentially welding the part to the surface.</p>
<h1>Too Cold</h1>
<p>If you're printing filament that is too cold, you're going to run into an issue where the material being pushed into the hot end is not getting melted sufficiently. This means that pressure will build up in the hot end that can't be released through extruding material through the nozzle. If you've ever tried to pipe frosting using a bag/tip and the frosting was too thick, you'll know what I'm talking about.</p>
<p>When material is being fed into the hot end but not being allowed to flow out of it, something has to give. That thing is your extruder. It has a wheel with little teeth on it to grip the filament and feed it into the hot end (or bowden tube which leads to the hot end). It can exert a certain amount of force on that filament. When the hot end's back pressure builds to the point that it becomes greater than the extruder's force, it will start skipping.</p>
<p>Imagine trying to push a large, heavy object. Your feet will begin to slip as your the force of your exertion overcomes the friction between your feet and the ground. That's what will happen to your extruder. It will make clicking/clunking noises as the extruder unsuccessfully tries to push the filament through and the friction between the teeth of the gear and the filament is overcome. This is called grinding.</p>
<p>If your bed is too cold, you simply just end up with problems getting the print to adhere to the surface.</p>
<hr />
<h1>Warping</h1>
<p>In your particular case, you're describing warping. Remember from physics 101 that cold things contract and warm things expand. Your print bed is warm, and so, too, are the first layers that are near it because the bed's heat is transferring up into them and keeping them warm.</p>
<p>Obviously, your active (topmost) layer will also be a bit warmer as it as just come out of the hot end. However, in general as you move higher up away from the printed bed, the printed layers get colder. Because they are getting colder, they are undergoing thermal contraction.</p>
<p>This creates a thermal gradient where layers go from greater thermal expansion to greater thermal contraction. The combination means that the bottom of the print will start to curl up (away from the expansion and towards the contraction).</p>
<p><strong>This is not an issue with your printing temperature. It's a problem with your ambient temperature.</strong></p>
<p>The easiest way to fix this issue is to put your printer in an enclosure. This isolates the air immediately around the printer from the rest of the air in the room. Because your heater's bed and nozzle are throwing out a lot of heat, they will heat up the print chamber quite a bit (mine typically runs over 30 degrees celsius, even in the dead of winter).</p>
<p>Because the ambient temperature in the print chamber is so much warmer than the outside air, that temperature gradient is much, much smaller. As a result, warping will stop becoming a problem.</p>
|
2021-01-15T16:23:02.720 | |openscad| | <p>The following creates an object with two slots:</p>
<pre><code> translate([-40,-40,0]) difference() {
cube ([90,28,12]);
translate([12,-.01,5]) cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]);
translate([65,-.01,5]) cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]);
</code></pre>
<p>How can the first main cube be extended to be a complex object of the syntax:</p>
<pre><code>cube([60,20,10],center=true);translate([0,0,5])cube([30,20,10],center=true);
</code></pre>
<p>and then use <code>difference</code> to create holes?</p>
| 15335 | How to combine difference with concatinate object | <p>The <code>union</code> syntax addresses this:</p>
<pre><code>translate([-40,-40,0])
difference() {
union() {
cube ([90,28,12]);
translate([20,0,20])
cube([12,12,12]);
}
translate([12,-.01,5])
cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]);
translate([65,-.01,5])
cube([12.7,28.02,14.02]);
}
</code></pre>
<p>It supports creating an object before the difference syntax is applied.</p>
|
2021-01-17T19:25:42.857 | |marlin|g-code|bed-leveling|anet-a6|print-axis-offset| | <p>After watching every possible YouTube video on the subject and reading any source available, and although I'm a PhD and quite computer savvy, I still can't make my Anet A6 (no probe) behave in terms of Z offset. I upgraded to silicone bed buffers instead of the stock springs; now my bed is ~5 mm raised, and I don't know how to proceed. Some observations:</p>
<ul>
<li><p><strong>G28</strong> makes the nozzle go to the center of the bed. Display says X 111 and Y 111. Is it preferable to set the home to the bottom-left corner, or is the center just fine?</p>
</li>
<li><p><strong>G28</strong> makes the nozzle squish the bed ~5 mm deep.</p>
</li>
<li><p>I've tried the <strong>G92</strong> approach and the <strong>M428</strong> approach. I can't quite understand what's the difference between them. Can anyone explain why sometimes the former is used and sometimes the latter?</p>
</li>
<li><p>I had high hopes for <strong>M428</strong>. What could be simpler? You physically guide the nozzle to where you want it to be, send the command, and that's your new 0,0,0. But I guess not. Since my "home" is at 111,111 and apparently M428 can only be used at a maximum of 20 mm from 0, I get a "too far from reference" error message.</p>
</li>
<li><p>At any rate, both approaches (also <strong>M206</strong>) haven't helped. When I <strong>G28</strong>, the nozzle still squishes the bed. The display either says Z 5 or Z -5 or whatever I've played with, but the nozzle still squishes the poor bed.</p>
</li>
<li><p>In my LCD menu (Marlin 1.1.9), I don't have Control -> Motion -> Z offset. Since many videos recommend using this, this is quite sad. Can anyone tell me why this option is absent?</p>
</li>
<li><p>On a very conceptual level, I can't quite understand why in all the video guides the bed screws are completely ignored when discussing Z offset. One guy showed how he's correcting his Z offset 0.3 mm using G-code. But he could've easily done it by adjusting his screws... They all say "Z offset means the distance between your nozzle and bed, and here is how to adjust it". Now comes G-code, or LCD menu, etc. But why is everyone forgetting that you can adjust the distance between your bed and nozzle using the screws?! I can't seem to wrap my head around this. In my case, of course, I can't use the screws -- they've reached their limit, so I need to add extra using G-code. But nobody seems to really explain this nicely...</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Summary:</strong> I urgently need a walkthrough for 6-year-olds. Make that 4-year-olds.</p>
| 15350 | How do I set my Z offset? | <p>So the new silicone buffers raised the bed by 5 mm? When this happens, you should raise the endstop also with 5 mm. Else the printer will go down to the Z endstop that is effectively 5 mm below the level of the bed. I guess the buffers cannot be compressed by 5 mm, so you need to move the endstop up to the level your buffer compression is in reach of.</p>
<p>No software offset will work (for your current setup: homing on the bed surface does not work as the switch need to be triggered prior to having any offset in play) other than a hardware change or compression of the buffers of 5 mm. It would only be possible to use a software offset when the nozzle homes off the bed surface (next to the bed). The only thing you would have had to do is add in your start G-code:</p>
<pre><code>G0 Z5 ; Move the head to 5 mm
G92 Z0 ; Call this Z = 0
</code></pre>
<p>If <code>#define Z_SAFE_HOMING</code> is enabled, you should comment the line in the configuration file to make it home Z at the homed X, Y position.</p>
<p>I will not go into all G-codes, details are read on the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G-codes Wiki pages</a> and <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin firmware G-codes</a>, these won't be able to help you out unless you fix the homing on the bed surface. Currently, you need to do a hardware fix, your endstop is below the surface level of the bed. Alternative is to remove homing Z above the bed surface and redefine the Z offset. A hardware fix is a better solution, and if you manage to print a fancy Z endstop holder and counterpart with a screw you will be able to level the bed more easily.</p>
<p>E.g. <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M428.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M428</code></a> can set an offset, yes, but, it needs a reference; that reference is the homing reference or the current position. The current position of a printer that is just turn on is meaningless, it can be everywhere in the print volume. So you need to trigger the endstops first, that is not possible when it is not reachable (without compressing the bed).</p>
|
2021-01-18T22:27:52.223 | |ultimaker-cura|3d-models| | <p>Being new to 3D printing, I have started printing different files from Thingiverse to better my experience. I have noticed on some YouTube videos that certain items/models/STLs should be oriented a certain way on the build plate.</p>
<p>What things should I take into consideration when placing items on the build plate?</p>
<p>Printer: Ender 3v2 (stock)<br />
Slicer: Cura</p>
| 15362 | Considerations for placing STL on build plate | <h1>Orienting items</h1>
<p>Orienting items on the build plate should consider:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>overhangs</strong> - many hangning fragments will need additional support to be printed (cost of time and material, risk of failure); gravity and colling process will affect loose/hanging plastic in this or that way</li>
<li><strong>layered structure</strong> - parts will be stronger in X-Y directions, and weaker in Z direction</li>
<li><strong>adhesion</strong> - it is good to have wide foot to touch and stick to the bed, then only thin base growing big upwards, which may easily fail by any accident</li>
<li><strong>space</strong> - if the thing is big, it may have to be rotated diagonally to fit the printing surface</li>
</ul>
<p>So most of it comes from particular shape. Try to look at thing from different sides, spatial awareness helps a lot.</p>
<h1>Placing items</h1>
<p>Also, placing items on the build plate should consider:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>heating system</strong> - heated bed surface may be warmer at center; even if the bed is heated evenly, than surface will cool down faster at sides, which may affect adhesion (e.g. ABS will wrap more often)</li>
<li><strong>cooling system</strong> - sometimes printer has better cooling from one side (depending on location of fans or construction of cooling ducts), so any overhangs (fragments which have to cool down very quickly) should be properly exposed, otherwise they will wrap</li>
<li>environment (external influences) - they may affect heating / cooling as well; also mutual position of few objects may affect cooling or act as wall for wind</li>
<li><strong>printer construction</strong> - e.g. backside of <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Air_2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa Air 2</a> frame is shrinking going up, and anything mounted behing extruder will hit the frame - so high prints should be X-centered/narrow, and rather wide along Y axis</li>
<li><strong>multiple extrusion</strong> - if you use dual extruder, then mixed fragments may not be located on edges, because one of nozzles just cannot reach it</li>
<li><strong>surface quality</strong> - e.g. I print ABS on Kapton tape; sometimes the tape gets small holes or tearing from hotend accidents or forceful part detachment - then I just avoid damaged areas</li>
<li><strong>other issues</strong> - e.g. my Y axis is louder than X, therefore I rather try to use X axis more often (especially when printing late evenings)</li>
<li><strong>view point</strong> - easthetics of printing: which objects, which sides you want to observe during printing?</li>
<li><strong>acessability</strong> - if you may want to influence area during print, put something inside the part during printing?</li>
</ul>
<p>So most of it comes from the experiences with particular printer - its technical parameters and observations. Many times it is only a choice - like simple PLA prints sticking well.</p>
|
2021-01-19T14:33:41.733 | |resin| | <p>I've recently got an Elegoo Mars-like resin printer which is called Voxelab Polaris. So far, I have a lot of success with it, but one piece is proving really tough to print and I'm hoping for advice!</p>
<p><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2035221" rel="nofollow noreferrer">These Settlers Of Catan tiles</a> are natively about 90x97 mm.</p>
<p>It's too big to print flat on my 130x82x155 mm print bed, so I've been trying to print it at a variety of angles including vertically. When printed vertical, it tends to warp along the long axis, and when done at an angle including supports there's not enough landing area to stick it to the print bed.</p>
<p>I've tried printing two together back-to-back, but in Chitubox I can't find a way to add supports between two pieces on the bed (only from each piece to the bed).</p>
<p>Anyone got any insights about how I might print this in resin?</p>
| 15370 | Resin printing on Voxelab Polaris | <p>If you want to print flat, you could easily print all parts at 90 %: the bounding box dimensions now are 81.16 x 88 mm - and as a result, you can print some other parts flat next to it but not more than one tile at the same time. Remember to print all cities and roads at 90 % too.</p>
|
2021-01-21T09:23:48.733 | |underextrusion|geeetech| | <p>I'm printing with Geeetech A20 printer, PLA.</p>
<p>I've started printing the same test piece while changing the following parameters:</p>
<p>Temperature from 215 °C to 195 °C (lowering by 5 °C on each print)</p>
<p>Flow multiplier from 100 % to 120 % (increasing 5 % on each print)</p>
<p>Speed on two first prints was 60 mm/s and on two last 40 mm/s</p>
<p>Bed leveling is perfect, the hardware seems to be in tact, the nozzle is clean and still the walls on the outer curve print well all the time, but in the inner circle they seem to be under extruded (even though flow is up to 120 %)</p>
<p>I am planning on going on with these tests until I get the perfect print, but I am hoping somebody can guide me on what to try next.</p>
<p>I've been reading about the issues on so many articles that now my head is a mess and I just need some clear instructions.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/il3g6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/il3g6.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3o7q.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3o7q.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zcm7v.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zcm7v.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tpxs1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tpxs1.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/525hT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/525hT.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xW3yS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xW3yS.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15381 | Top layer and walls have gaps even with 120 % flow (Cura) | <p>You are lowering temperature and increase the flow at the same time - which is contradictory (filament is less runny, but you pump more of it). Though 195 °C seems to be very safe for printing PLA at 40 mm/s. Just doublecheck that when you disable motors, and push filament with hand, it melts quickly and easily goes out. Otherwise you will deal with temperature-related issue.</p>
<p>Outer walls are usually printed slower, and even when underextruded, part of line may appear constant thanks to leaking filament (it has time). Next retraction will cause stop leaking, and the other wall is printed with almost no pressure. Maybe your constant issue with "inner circle" is just a consequence of such moves.</p>
<p>My suggestions:</p>
<ul>
<li>Did you calibrate the extruder (steps per mm)? - if not yet, do it (it's a basic skill); to quickly check if this could help, try to continue increasing flow by 5% and observe what will happen then, because maybe this is simple underextrusion due to incorrect steps/mm?</li>
<li>Are you sure that extruder motor is not loosing steps? (e.g. too weak motor against the pressure)</li>
<li>Are you sure that filament is not slipping? (e.g. blunt driver's teeth, or too loose idler)</li>
<li>Could you unintentionally enable <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13451/ender-3-underextrusion/13480#13480">volumetric extrusion</a>?</li>
</ul>
|
2021-01-21T16:46:23.413 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|calibration| | <p>Recently I’ve been having trouble leveling my bed on my <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creality" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality</a> Ender 3 Pro. It’s not that it’s hard to level or anything, it’s that it won’t stay level for more than a day or two. I’ve been leveling it the same way as always with a piece of paper and I’ve been sure to disable steppers. So if anyone knows what I can do about this, please let me know.</p>
| 15385 | What’s the best way of leveling the bed? | <p>Generally, there is no <em>best</em> way, there are only the ways that work for you.</p>
<p><strong>I</strong> use a feeler gauge, mounted on a detachable holder. I home to 0, lift the Z by 1 mm, and then level the bed to the same number on the screws and corners. Then I home back to Z=0 and perform an extrusion test, and if that is not satisfactory, use a different number for the leveling. The number on the plunger does not generally read 1 mm, as there is an offset between the 0 of the gauge and the printer.</p>
<p>When I don't level from 0 or am in a hurry, I usually only alter leveling by doing about 2-5° turns on all the screws to adjust the 0-height via the nuts, using the visual of the printed line as my aide. This only works because I have the experience how a good first layer should look like.</p>
<p>Another typical method that I stopped using once I had the feeler gauge is the paper, but I found it inconsistent.</p>
<h2>Do not do these:</h2>
<ul>
<li>Leveling the bed with a level does <strong>not</strong> lead to good prints - your print bed needs to be parallel to the movement of the printhead, not to the earth!</li>
</ul>
|
2021-01-21T21:49:53.873 | |adhesion|build-plate|creality-cr-6| | <p>I've been dealing with 3D printing for 1.5 years, but now own a CR-6 SE myself since the beginning of 2021. Most things are already quite clear but for 2 days I have had a problem with the adhesion of the prints.</p>
<p>Nearly all prints I have done so far used the filament shipped with the printer (PLA 1.75) and they came off the building plate after some cooling time by themselves. I used the default printer settings for PLA: 200 °C nozzle temperature, 60 °C printing bed.</p>
<p>Then 2 days ago the prints began to not stick to the bed anymore and I thought this could be because of dust and from touching the bed. So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of "welded" to the bed. There is no chance of loosening it without more IPA or way too much force.</p>
<p>I already tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>cleaning the bed with clean water - unfortunately, didn't work</li>
<li>setting the Z-offset from 0.1 back to 0.2 mm - also no success</li>
</ul>
<p>Today I also tried a spool of brand new PETG, with the following recommended settings: 240 °C nozzle temperature, 80 °C print bed - but the problem stayed the same.</p>
<p>Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the "Carborundum" coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?</p>
| 15392 | CR-6 SE glass build plate - no lifting possible | <p>I have had similar issues, and I have learned three tricks:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Some slicers (i.e. Cura) let you specify the height of your first layer, and I have found that slowly incrementing up from 0.16 mm by 0.2 mm to find the sweet spot of adhesion without warping. Every brand/type is different. But, usually, for me, fall between 0.18-0.22 mm.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Blue painters tape. If you don't need the glass flat finish of printing directly to glass, I always use blue tape. It makes for great adhesion, and also easy removal of super stuck prints, and you can just peel it off the build plate. With blue tape, I tend to add 2-3 °C to the bed temp.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Glue sticks (instead of hairspray). But, Elmer's glue sticks that go on purple and dry clear. When you use these, if a print is stuck, you just need to spritz some water around the print. The print and the glue will wick the water under the print, and reconstitute the glue. Once the glue is tacky again, the print will pop right off. The only downside is a slight texture to the print and not glossy glass flat.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>The reason I like the colored glue, as it reconstitutes it activates the cobalt chloride and turns purple again. This is great for knowing when it is good to start printing again. And also tends to become less of a sticky mess than hairspray.</p>
|
2021-01-22T18:16:15.303 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bltouch|glass-bed| | <p>Printer: Ender 3
Bed: Creality Glass
ABL: BLTouch
Everything else: Stock</p>
<p>Few weeks ago I had a meltdown during a failed ABS print. My hotend was completely wrapped in plastic and trying to remove said plastic I snagged the termistor. Anyway I had to replace the nozzle, hotend and thermistor. Everything on here. I went ahead and measured the Nozzle BLTouch needle offsets and re-flashed my Ender 3 with TH3D Firmware and configured BLTouch. After which I adjusted the Z offset again.</p>
<p>All good here. BLTouch appears to work, well at least it appears so.</p>
<p>I started printing and I see that my bed always hangs lower on the right side and BLTouch does not compensate for this difference.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pY1ak.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pY1ak.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJdYB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HJdYB.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Manual leveling (with a heated bed, also tried without)</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>Auto home</li>
<li>Move Z axis from 5 to 0</li>
<li>Move the head to each corner of the bed</li>
<li>Adjust the corner hight using the paper method (repeat 2x for each corner)</li>
<li>Auto home</li>
<li>Move Z axis from 5 to 0</li>
<li>Go to Z offset, and move it until it tugs on the paper.</li>
<li>Save and Auto home</li>
</ol>
<p>But this did not solve the issue. When I move the head to Z0 (with the offset) in the centre it's perfect. Moving it to left gets close to the board, right goes way away from the board.</p>
<p><strong>Belts & screws</strong><br />
Went and tightened all the belts and all the screws.</p>
<p><strong>X Axis alignment</strong><br />
I set the Z axis to the max 250. And measure the distance from top of the X axis to top of the frame. There is no difference in the left, right or centre of x axis to the top of the printer. Same for distance from bottom part of the frame.</p>
<p>I cleaned the belts and the wheels with a soft brush. Not sure what else to do. I'm giving up on Creality/Ender :(</p>
| 15407 | BLTouch does not compensate for differences in bed level | <p>The issue was <strong>BLTouch</strong> i'm not sure what use is this thing if it cannot compensate for differences in bed or frame.</p>
<p>I'm not sure why but the probing seems to be bad. I tried everything clean TH3D install and config, pitch perfect alignment of everything frame, bed, mounts everything. Perfectly calibrated Z offset at the centre of bed. I triple checked the belts. Checked if X axis was off or if any screw was lose, checked wheels to make sure everything was snugg.</p>
<p>Anyhow in the end the issue was with bad BLTouch probing not sure why. I gave up and went and disconneced <strong>BLTouch</strong> did manual bed leveling with the paper method. Press print and I got a perfect print. Like literally perfect. Even extrusion everywhere.</p>
<p>BLTouch seems to have probed the distance at the centre of bed, I set the offset for it. Than when it went and probed other corners before the print it seems to have read the values wrong.</p>
|
2021-01-23T05:38:25.853 | |ultimaker-cura|troubleshooting|lulzbot| | <p>I have a Lulzbot TAZ 4 and am using Lulzbot Cura for slicing, printing with HIPS.</p>
<p>Yesterday, I tried a print, only for this to happen:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPSOG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed print 1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPSOG.png" alt="Failed print 1" title="Failed print 1" /></a></p>
<p>It appears that the printer got most of the way through printing the part, and then for no apparent reason lowered the nozzle into the part (causing it to detach from the bed), raised the nozzle back up, and then to continue trying to print like nothing happened.</p>
<p>I thought maybe the G-code file got corrupted when transferring to the SD card (a single bit-flip could cause exactly this problem). So I generated the G-code again with exactly the same settings, and the same thing happened again but in a slightly different place and a few layers further up the model:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6eP0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed print 2"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6eP0.jpg" alt="Failed print 2" title="Failed print 2" /></a></p>
<p>I have previously printed exactly the same model, only mirrored, with the same settings, and did not have this problem. I've never seen anything like this. Does anyone know what is going on?</p>
| 15412 | 3D printer destroys part by lowering nozzle | <p>This is my bet, based on cooling fan failure (I assume it was nozzle fan, not a heatsink fan), though honestly my practical experience with HIPS is zero. Without this fan heated material printed at high angles will definitely curl up, and even flat may be unstable. I suppose it happend, observing layer inconsistency on middle finger close to the nail.</p>
<p>Then, material could curl a bit and build up. Collisions with hotend could result in blob of plastic here or there, and then something bad happened (<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15412/3d-printer-destroys-part-by-lowering-nozzle#comment29010_15412">see @Jack State comment</a>).</p>
<p>I also suppose that the whole print was detached from bed and rotated, because we see surprising shape across the middle finger, and unfinished index finger. Filament was extruded in random locations, causing more blobs, more curling and more mess. There are some gaps which look exactly like hotend run directly into them. I suppose that object rotated both horizontally and vertically. It could be even dragged by hotend at the end (e.g. filament was extruded inside the index finger).</p>
|
2021-01-23T08:25:29.673 | |z-axis|labists-et4| | <p>I use Slic3r to create G-codes for my Labists ET4 printer. Usually, no problem.</p>
<p>Now, as soon as I tried to start a print, the nozzle head went down as usual, but this time it went a bit lower than 0 and the machine made angry noises for less than a second.</p>
<p>It went back up again and heated the bed and the nozzle, only to go back down too strongly with angry noises again. Even left a little pokey hole on the bed.</p>
<p>I got scared and turned the machine's switch off and manually raised the Z axis with ease.</p>
<p>Never had this problem before and now I'm afraid to turn on my machine.</p>
<p>I've had the following setup for G-codes prior to today's incident and it had worked just fine:</p>
<pre><code>G28 ; Home extruder
G1 Z15 F[travel_speed]
M106 S[max_fan_speed]; Turn on fan
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode
; Activate all used extruder
M104 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]
M190 S[bed_temperature]
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature
M109 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]
</code></pre>
<p>After this, I did try the auto levelling, however it still tried to plow into the bed, albeit not as angrily.</p>
<p>Here's other things to potentially consider:</p>
<ul>
<li>I haven't used the machine 10 days.</li>
<li>It's been chilly in the room where the machine is.</li>
</ul>
<p>So here's my questions:</p>
<ul>
<li>"What could cause a 3D printer to have an incorrect impression of Z-axis=0 even in absolute position mode?"</li>
<li>"What can I do to fix it?"</li>
</ul>
| 15413 | Labists ET4 printer nozzle hits bed after automatic levelling | <p>Dirt. It was dirt. Most likely.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtwhz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtwhz.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Apparently the machine establishes bed level with a sensor, and I might be wrong, but I think the ET4 monitors capacitance as a means to notice how far the nozzle is from the bed.</p>
<p>After all else failed I looked at the nozzle closely and noticed that the whole thing looked fuzzy. Looks like soot (from where though!?) had settled on the machine's sensitive components and <em>de facto</em> blind-folded its sensor.</p>
<p>A wipe and a levelling later, all was back to normal. Yay!</p>
|
2021-01-24T02:49:42.963 | |prusa-i3|speed| | <p>I am using PLA and I am looking for ideas on using the <code>Tune</code> option to tune my Prusa i3 MK3 to increase the speed to 300 %.</p>
<p>The 300 % speed works perfectly fine for some of the models.</p>
<p>However, for some of the flat surfaces, the printer cannot handle the speed. The issues are pointed in the image below:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hm8p0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hm8p0.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>It seems that printer is struggling to supply enough filament.</p>
<p>Can I solve the issue by using the <code>Tune</code> menu by changing settings like temperature or flow?</p>
<p><strong>Answer:</strong></p>
<p>While @dandavis is informative, but this is how I did it:</p>
<ul>
<li>increasing z offset so nuzzle has enough space to dispense.</li>
<li>Increase temperature +10</li>
</ul>
<p>Please note that this degrades the print quality, but I am just printing a few organizer boxes. Quality is not essential and not something I expect from a 300% speed.</p>
| 15417 | Ideas to tune for 300 % speed | <p>Provided you find a way to increase the extruder limits, as replied by @dandavis , you will still get underextrusion in the infill if the infill is printed faster than walls.</p>
<p>You need to enable some option in the slicer to label each part of the print, so that you get a comment in the gcode to mark walls, infill, and so on.</p>
<p>Then you need to process the generated gcode, so that when you find the label "infill" you replace it with a flow multiplier to increase flow. How much has to be tuned by try and fail.</p>
<p>You also need to replace every remaining label (walls, ...) with a 100% flowrate setting to bring back the setting to the standard value, obviously.</p>
|
2021-01-24T09:28:16.120 | |marlin|bltouch|creality-cr-10|tmc2208| | <p>I was printing an object and it started to drag so I stopped it.</p>
<p>Went to move the Z-axis up so I could clear the bed and Z-axis would not budge.
I switched the printer off and manually turned the motors to get the Z up.
Cleared the bed, switched on and homed the printer. When it came to home the Z, BLTouch deployed and then nothing. Motors will not turn.</p>
<p>Things I tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Recompiled the firmware (Marlin 2.0.x)</li>
<li>Different motors - Motors were free from the printer, just resting on a desk so I know it's not binding or anything.</li>
<li>Swapped stepper driver with a known working one.</li>
</ul>
<p>Info about the printer:</p>
<ul>
<li>CR10s</li>
<li>SKR1.4 Turbo board</li>
<li>TMC2208 Steppers</li>
<li>BLTouch</li>
<li>Octopi to control the printer.</li>
</ul>
<p>Output of <code>M122</code> for the Z:</p>
<pre><code>Recv: Z
Recv: Address
Recv: Enabled false
Recv: Set current 1000
Recv: RMS current 994
Recv: MAX current 1402
Recv: Run current 17/31
Recv: Hold current 8/31
Recv: CS actual 8/31
Recv: PWM scale
Recv: vsense 0=.325
Recv: stealthChop true
Recv: msteps 16
Recv: tstep max
Recv: PWM thresh. 0
Recv: [mm/s] -
Recv: OT prewarn false
Recv: triggered
Recv: OTP false
Recv: pwm scale sum 10
Recv: pwm scale auto 0
Recv: pwm offset auto 36
Recv: pwm grad auto 14
Recv: off time 4
Recv: blank time 24
Recv: hysteresis
Recv: -end 2
Recv: -start 1
Recv: Stallguard thrs
Recv: uStep count 40
Recv: DRVSTATUS Z
Recv: sg_result
Recv: stst
Recv: olb
Recv: ola
Recv: s2gb
Recv: s2ga
Recv: otpw
Recv: to
Recv: 157C
Recv: 150C
Recv: 143C
Recv: 120C
Recv: s2vsa
Recv: s2vsb
Recv: Driver registers:
Recv: Z 0xC0:08:00:00
Recv:
Recv:
Recv: Testing Z connection... OK
</code></pre>
| 15421 | Z axis no longer working on a working printer | <p>Issue seems to be resolved. I deleted my Marlin copy, downloaded a fresh copy and I started again.</p>
<p>What worries me is how a working copy and a working printer can suddenly have this issue. Feel like this issue could come back as I never found the root cause.</p>
|
2021-01-25T09:27:14.467 | |software| | <p>I am looking at printing a fair amount of text, ideally using some custom fonts. I quite like <a href="https://pixelify.net/download/free-fonts/script-handwritten/stay-classy-font-free/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Stay Classy</a> but will likely have to consider change if it causes issues.</p>
<p>I am a little stuck on where to start with using these in some tools. I have tried creating an SVG using the font and importing to Tinkercad however that always fails. I only want to print the text, nothing else.</p>
<p>How do I properly convert my font into .svg and import that so I can make my bodies? While I have tried Tinkercad I am open to alternative tools if this can be achieved more easily.</p>
| 15432 | Printing 3D letters in any font? | <p>Tinkercad and Inkscape is likely the easiest method, requiring very little to learn anew. The key in Inkscape is to use Path, Object to Path, which converts the text format to "ordinary" vectors supported by Tinkercad.</p>
<p>If you're comfortable with both programs, there's no reason to divert to a new package.</p>
<p>Tossing a conversion from vector to bitmap and back to vector is going to "damage" the image, while the suggestion I've made will retain all detail.</p>
|
2021-01-25T17:07:16.080 | |slicing|calibration|speed| | <p>In the past we had printers with poor mechanics and with primitive software algorithms, therefore we used to print inner perimeters faster than the outermost one. See for example (generic, found online):</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJeIV.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJeIV.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>However now we have pressure/linear advance which reduces extra oozing/extrusion in corners or areas with variable speed, and in Klipper we also have <a href="https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">resonance compensation</a> which takes care of imperfect mechanics allowing printers to be pushed to higher acceleration without visible artifacts (in my case from 2000 to 6000 mm/s^2), see (generic) photo:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZhB5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZhB5.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>However printing slower has a clear disadvantage: E steps calibration is speed dependent with more filament being pushed out at lower speed, see</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0xRtypDjNvI?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? Using one speed only except for specific areas (small perimeters, bridges, support) seems to make more sense to me to improve quality and reduce printing times.</p>
| 15439 | Is a slower outer perimeter speed still meaningful? | <p>Lowering speed on outer perimeter has always been mostly wrong, but possibly useful. Usually, it's a poor approximation for what you really want to do, which is lowering <em>acceleration</em> on the outer perimeter, to avoid surface quality and dimensional accuracy errors due to ringing and backlash. However, on bowden printers without compensation for pressure ("linear advance" in Marlin, aka "pressure advance" in some other firmware), slow acceleration and high speeds give really bad error in extrusion consistency, so you're better off just lowering the max speed too whenever you lower acceleration.</p>
<p>It's also possible that you may want to print at extremely high speeds for inner walls and infill - speeds so high that you get a lot of extrusion consistency problems. If so, it would make sense to retain a sensible max speed on the outer wall. This won't avoid the part strength problems from printing too fast, but if your models are just decorative, it might be worth it.</p>
<p>Generally, though, I'd recommend solving these problems right (using linear advance if your printer needs it, lowering outer perimeter acceleration to get rid of artifacts, printing at a speed your hotend can handle, etc.) and deem "slower outer perimeter" an idea whose time has passed.</p>
<p>Also, note that if you're using a bowden printer <em>without</em> linear advance, sticking to the <em>same speed</em> for all extrusion will largely paper over the problem. This is probably the source of your observation that it "improves print quality" for you.</p>
|
2021-01-25T23:45:20.870 | |3d-design|heat-management| | <p>I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 °C to 150 °C.</p>
<p>Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I would like to know what would be the best choice for my need.
I was planning to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not sure this entry-level 3D printer will allow me to obtain the results I'm looking for. I'm excluding PLA material because I think it's the most "fragile" material from this point of view and for my needs.</p>
<p>My questions are:</p>
<ol>
<li>Which material should I use in order to have a 3D printed object (rotor) that will not deform at a temperature that varies from 100 °C to 150 °C?</li>
<li>Can an Ender 3 (planning to use full metal hotend and also hotbed) be used to print the filament that is heat resistant? Should I buy a resin 3D printer?</li>
</ol>
| 15444 | Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material? | <p>Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C.</p>
<p>It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you do seldomly, to have the parts printed professionally.</p>
<p>Many thing start warping or breaking at 100 °C.</p>
|
2021-01-27T17:00:50.830 | |creality-ender-3|abs|petg| | <p>I have an Ender 3 Pro and I'm about to print a relatively large model on it.
I've been printing in PETG and I'd like to use up the last of the roll during this print.</p>
<p>When the roll runs out however, I don't currently have any PETG lying around but I do have two brand new rolls of PLA and ABS. I'd love to swap to one of them (lets say ABS) when the PETG is running low, and I'm just wondering if there is anything I should be wary of besides the print temp.</p>
<p>I am aware of general issues with ABS (warping without heated enclosure and stuff) but if I:</p>
<ol>
<li>Have heated enclosure</li>
<li>Tune temperature to be higher when I swap to ABS</li>
<li>Have "draft shield" printing along with the model</li>
</ol>
<p>Are there any other considerations that I need to put in the gcode or anything? How much it pushes the filament or retracts or something? I'm just using "Generic PETG" settings on Cura.</p>
| 15474 | How to switch from PETG to either PLA/ABS mid print? | <p>You should do a complete calibration for ABS (temperature tower, E steps, flowrate %) before starting the print, then when you change filament remember to apply all the parameters I mentioned.</p>
<p>While I'm not in favour of using the flow rate % to correct the E steps calibration, since you are doing it mid print this may be the easiest way, instead of changing E steps AND flow rate %.</p>
<p>As you said, you need to change temperature too, but both PETG and ABS print well at 235 °C so it may not be needed. PLA works too, but PLA bridges at 235 °C are difficult to get properly.</p>
<p>For sure you won't be able to change other parameters, such as fan speed, printing speed and flowrate for bridges, which are all specific to each filament, but hopefully it will work out anyway, since PETG is trickier than ABS or PLA.</p>
<p>Of course you may have issues with adherence: PETG may not bond well to ABS or PLA (in fact, PETG can be used for support for PLA and viceversa because the bonding is not too strong). You may have a weak print with PLA, so go for ABS.</p>
<p>PETG as support for PLA: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13931/can-petg-be-used-as-support-material-for-pla">Can PETG be used as support material for PLA?</a></p>
<p>Bridge calibration:</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4KAMFamy3zw?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
|
2021-01-29T14:02:54.063 | |hotend|nozzle|temperature| | <p>I'm using Cura to slice prints from a biodegradable polyester called PCL (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Polycaprolactone</a>).</p>
<p>I need to print @ ~70 °C but extruder does not run until nozzle reaches 175 °C.</p>
<p>Which setting to change so extruder will turn on when nozzle temperature has reached 70 °C?</p>
<p>Here are my settings for the material:</p>
<p><strong><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIh9C.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIh9C.png" alt="strong text" /></a></strong></p>
| 15495 | How to print at low temperatures (filament melting at about 70 °C)? | <p>In Cura Machine Settings, add <code>M302 S70</code>.</p>
<p>Apparently, <code>M302 P1</code> and <code>M302 S0</code> do nothing, you need to define a non-zero minimum, and in my case, 70. Thanks to 0scar and Trish for your help.</p>
|
2021-01-30T00:04:44.543 | |troubleshooting|hotend|heat-management|creality-cr-6|creality| | <p><em><strong>TL;DR</strong> - Please help me rebuild my CR-6 SE so that I can move on</em></p>
<hr />
<p>Here's a link to the latest issue that I had to make proof of in a video: <a href="https://youtu.be/9vChL7Il_9Y" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CR6-SE failed</a></p>
<p>Basically, it's failing to reach/maintain temperature (set point of 240 °C, fails to heat above 230 °C), issues start to happen at temps as low as 210 °C.
Creality support is evasive/dodgy. First, they want to see a video proof for the problem reported, and after a while and emails from me asking, suggested something obvious (set temp to 200 °C).</p>
<p>And without any video, they don't respond. Just like last time when I ran into the defective/burned power switch and failed bed leveling.</p>
<p><em>If you have some spare time, please quickly check the video and provide some feedback.</em></p>
<p>I already fixed the burned power switch and auto-leveling (Creality ignored me, so I got the parts from Amazon).</p>
<p>This is the last issue that I need to do a "mercy" fix, so that I can either repurpose it or, just give it away (but I still have to make it working again and safe!).
I already placed an order for an i3 MK3S+, should've bought this in the first place to help me study 3D modeling, <em>not working my degree towards fixing Creality printer failures</em> :)</p>
<p>Thanks in advance.</p>
<p>My troubleshooting steps so far after a screw fell off during print:</p>
<ul>
<li>Disassembled the hotend: found heater block loose, screws were bent and somewhat stripped</li>
<li>Heater resistor has a bad crimp</li>
<li>Thermistor is reading temp, but I don't know if it's accurate (don't have a multimeter+thermocouple)</li>
</ul>
<p>Ordered a hotend from AliExpress, hopefully, that's it</p>
| 15498 | CR6-SE fails to heat hotend to set point | <p>I replaced the hotend with parts bought from AliExpress.</p>
<p>My printer is now able to reach/maintain temperature and complete prints successfully (no more heating failure).</p>
<p>BTW:
It's harder to buy replacement parts for CR-6 (as compared to other Creality printers).
There were only 2 type of replacement hotend parts for sale on AliExpress at the time I was shopping:</p>
<ul>
<li>40 USD for a full assembly (with carriage)</li>
<li>28 USD for a nozzle kit.</li>
</ul>
<p>There's an Amazon seller and a Canadian 3D printer store that sells individual parts, e.g.: heater block, but the prices are relatively expensive.</p>
<p>I bought a full assembly, but a nozzle kit would have worked as well.</p>
<p>Also, it looks like they're fixing their production process; my new hotend assembly was built better, even with what appear to be the same parts.</p>
<p>Not pretty, but at least it's printing - Hopefully this is it.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQDSJ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQDSJ.jpg" alt="test print" /></a></p>
|
2021-01-30T15:28:11.253 | |marlin|creality-ender-3|z-axis|homing|endstop| | <p>I've just changed the motherboard on my Ender 3 Pro with a MKS GEN_L v1.0 and flashed the latest Marlin version on it.</p>
<p>I've calibrated my bed manually using the default XY and Z auto home commands on OctoPrint and a piece of paper.</p>
<p>I'm happy with the calibration, however whenever I launch a print the Z axis moves up from the calibrated position by about 4 mm and starts extruding.</p>
<p>I've checked my Z endstop status with <code>M119</code> and it's triggered at the right calibrated position.</p>
<p>How can I correct this?</p>
| 15503 | Issue with Z homing on Ender 3 Pro with Marlin | <p>I've actually found what the issue was. It turns out that my Z steps were way out of whack (i.e. 4000 steps/mm instead of 400). Apparently, that's the default value in GitHub for version 2.0 of Marlin. Not sure if that's a typo or a valid value, anyhow setting it to 400 fixed it.</p>
|
2021-01-31T11:13:46.037 | |replacement-parts|dlp| | <p>I own a <a href="http://www.magicbuild3dprinter.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Magic Build 3D Printer</a>. I found out, that the glass is scratched like in the picture.</p>
<p>So, I'm looking for a replacement glass plane to put in front of the projector. Is this a special glass? What are the properties? Where can I find it?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DeMqO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DeMqO.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 15513 | What type is that glass? | <p>This is a sheet of glass you'd most likely need to acquire as a replacement part <strong>for your printer's manufacturer</strong>:</p>
<ul>
<li>The dimensions of the glass, especially with the rounded corners, are usually very odd and make buying a spare from a glassmaker really expensive.</li>
<li>Some printers like the Elegoo Mars have an LCD mounted as part of this sheet.</li>
<li>Printers also might have this plate coated for different properties, for example, to reduce reflectivity and refraction inside the printer.</li>
</ul>
<p>In this case, we have a DLP setup that uses a projector. You best inquire at the manufacturer itself using their <a href="http://www.magicbuild3dprinter.com/iletisim/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">website</a>, <a href="http://sales@yourcompany.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E-Mail</a> or <a href="https://www.facebook.com/magicbuild3D/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">facebook</a> about a few spare pieces - that will get you the same quality as the bed you already had (save for the scratches) and they usually have such items in stock.</p>
|
2021-02-01T06:58:27.727 | |nozzle|fdm|safety|maintenance|knowledgebase| | <p>What should I take care of to replace the nozzle of the hotend assembly the right way?</p>
<p>What kind of data, precautions, tools, steps, and verification are important for replacing the nozzle?</p>
<p>The procedure seems straightforward but tutorials differ greatly and seem often incomplete. Online videos are great but long, sometimes misleading, and difficult to compare if they use another printer model.</p>
<p>For example:</p>
<ul>
<li>This <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txt6sxV6X88" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa 3D tutorial</a> starts from heating the nozzle to 280 °C, which is dangerous for some hotend setups. Also, it is created around a direct drive extruder, so it does not advise to what to do with a Bowden tube.</li>
<li>Another <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Changing Nozzles & Bowden Tubes video</a> seems to be a great tutorial but advises heating only to ~210 °C. So I need to make sure I know my hardware limits first? Should I take something else into account about temperature, or just act by experience, <a href="/a/11648/26170">starting from 230 °C</a>?</li>
<li>Is that heating mandatory, or only <a href="/a/5123/26170">when there is residue filament inside</a>? If there is something to consider about <a href="/q/8064/">replacement nozzle</a> before installing it, or cooling down again, like PID calibration?</li>
</ul>
<p>So I am looking for a general overview: <strong>what should I think of</strong> to be in control? And maybe a bit of <strong>why</strong>, but not necessarily how. (As always, each detail may be a separate study, so please don't to fall into troubleshooting, which could be done in separate questions like <a href="/q/11646/">E3D V6 nozzle seized into heater block</a>).</p>
| 15521 | How to replace the nozzle in my hotend assembly? | <h1>Tools</h1>
<ul>
<li>spanners / wrenches - <em>to turn both nozzles (common sizes are 6-8 metric wrenches)</em></li>
<li>spanner / (fitting or adjustable) wrench - <em>to hold a heating block</em>
<ul>
<li>or small vise - <em>to hold a heating block (if you are going to unmount the hotend for operation), with non-flammable soft-jaws,</em></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>screwdriver(s)/Allan-keys - <em>when you need to remove shroud or plan to umount the hotend</em></li>
<li>non-flammable tray / plate (e.g. ceramic) - <em>to put removed, potentially hot nozzle aside</em></li>
<li>adequate personal protective equipment - <em>against getting your fingers burned, etc.</em></li>
</ul>
<h1>Precautions</h1>
<p>Beware of touching heater and thermistor wires with tools during operation. Electronics can be damaged by shorting the heater leads, thermistor leads, either with tools, the nozzle, or even a metal bed. Also, neither 12 V nor 24 V are pleasant to touch.</p>
<p>Using tools with plastic shielding can help to prevent this, but proper care is needed. Improvised rubber or tape wrappings are not advisable.</p>
<h1>Step 1: Unload</h1>
<p>Before swapping the nozzle, remove the filament. Follow the procedure of your manufacturer, though often this is heating the nozzle, then triggering the Swap-Filament or unload routine.</p>
<p>Many makers suggest a <em>cold-pull</em>. This is heating up to about the print temperature, then going back to off. Letting the filament cool by about 20 °C, they then yank hard at the filament, removing most of the plastic from the nozzle and melt zone. It is not applicable to some nozzles, especially those made from several parts (e.g. Olsson Ruby).</p>
<p>I have found it easier to put in an intermediate step of removing the whole hotend and use clamp it in a small vise to hold it on the heater block. This holds it steady and removes any stress from the heartbreak. However, this is more involved than using a fitting wrench to steady the heater block.</p>
<h1>Step 2: Remove the nozzle</h1>
<p>Dismount the extruder shroud if it blocks the way to the heater block, or hasn't already been removed to get the hotend dismounted.</p>
<p>If you have a lined hotend, remove the PTFE tube.</p>
<p>If you had oozing, this usually has glued the nozzle and heatbreak to the heater block. Heating the hot end to about the glass transition temperature of the filament will often make it easier (or possible) to remove the nozzle without stress to or damage to parts.</p>
<p>Now use a suitable wrench to remove the nozzle. <strong>Make sure to steady the heater block during this step</strong>. Otherwise, you might shear off a necked heatbreak, while lined heatbreaks might get deformed.</p>
<p>A Hot removed nozzle needs to be put aside on the safe surface or remain in the block with some windings.</p>
<p>If you work in a vise, you can remove the heatbreak too.</p>
<h1>Step 2.5: Cool down</h1>
<p>It's best to let the hotend cool down, so you can easier handle the parts. Unless you had to fight with oozing, you can have the nozzle col down still halfway in the block and then do the last windings by hand on a cold nozzle.</p>
<h1>Step 3: Install new nozzle</h1>
<p>Now, screw in the new nozzle <em>hand tight</em>. There should be at least half a millimeter stick-out between the nozzle flange and the heater block and it needs to butt against the heartbreak. (Nozzle must tighten against the heat break and not stress the heater block). Don't use a wrench yet, just hand tighten the nozzle against the heartbreak.</p>
<p>If you have a lined hotend, re-install the Bowden tube until it butts against the nozzle.</p>
<h1>Step 4: Hot tighten</h1>
<p><strong>Heat up</strong> the hotend to your limit temperature:</p>
<ul>
<li>Generally: do it at the highest temperature you will run. Otherwise, you will not get a good seal between the nozzle and heat break if you depending on tightening at lower than operating temperature. A bad seal allows the filament to leak out (oozing). Do not exceed the limit for your hardware.</li>
<li>For an all-metal hotend (a heat break without Teflon), this is dependant on your heater cartridge and thermosensor.</li>
<li>For a lined hotend that is 245 °C. Teflon will degrade at 250 °C. This also applies to Bowden tubes that run all the way to your nozzle. Go to the maximum temperature for operating with your machine, then you usually clamp the Bowden tube in place so that it forms a good seal.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Now use the wrench</strong> to tighten the heated nozzle carefully. Use a second wrench to steady the heater block, if you don't have the setup in a vise. <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15541/wrench-drops-temperature-of-heater-block-when-tightening-nozzle">Don't waste too much time</a>, but don't over-torque!</p>
<p>The exchange is done. If the hotend was unmounted, remove it from the vise, reassemble it fully and install it on the printer again. Make sure that your hotend cooling fan does put the heater block in the airstream.</p>
<h1>Step 5: Validation</h1>
<p>Run some filament through installed hotend. Observe if there is no ooze outside the nozzle.</p>
<h1>Step 6: Finishing</h1>
<p>If not already done, mount back the extruder shroud and any parts that had been removed.</p>
<p>Check homing of the Z-axis, as you will need to adjust the Z-height. If you have a sensor on the carriage, you might need to adjust its height to compensate for a slightly altered stickout of the nozzle.</p>
|
2021-02-01T19:03:35.150 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|bed-leveling|3dtouch| | <p>I have an Ender 3 a 3DTouch, with the SKR Mini E3 1.2 board.</p>
<p>From one day to another the probe started producing this pattern, where the right side of my bed (5x5 mesh, tried with 3x3, 7x7, all produce the same pattern) just drops by a significant amount. The bed is the Creality glass bed. I tried switching it back to the stock Ender 3 plate (non-magnetic), but no physical sign of this drop can be seen by the eye.</p>
<p>Probe testing with <code>M048</code> usually gave me Range ~0.005, and standard deviation between 0.001-0.0025 both in the problematic part, and any other part on the bed.</p>
<p>What could cause this problem?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QjEE3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QjEE3.png" alt="weird leveling bug" /></a></p>
| 15528 | Ender 3 weird drop in bed level | <p>Considering this is an Ender, it is probably caused by the rollers on the X axis or the un-driven right Z post.</p>
<p>I've also seen behavior like this caused by a too constraint PTFE Bowden tube, at the far end the tube pulls on the carriage lifting it slightly upwards, hence a different/larger gap.</p>
|
2021-02-02T17:31:07.470 | |hotend|nozzle| | <p>I've noticed when heating up the hotend to maximum operating temperature to tighten the nozzle against the heat break, after putting a wrench on the heater block, the temperature of the heater block drops by as much as 60 °C. Do you ignore this or have a procedure to correct?</p>
| 15541 | Wrench drops temperature of heater block when tightening nozzle | <h2>Mitigating "heat loss"</h2>
<p>Technically, we don't lose heat, we have a <em>drain of thermal energy</em> out of the parts, but let's stay simple.</p>
<p>To combat the loss into the holding/steadying wrench, I use a vise: it might lessen the heating curve by the added thermal mass if used <em>bare</em>, but by adding two pieces of wood on either side of the heater block, I can insulate the block against the thermal drop from the steadying vise and atop that prevent scratches.</p>
<p>If you use an adjustable wrench for the heater block, one can add wooden "soft jaws" with a little cyanoacrylate glue, otherwise, some painter's tape or Kapton might aid.</p>
<p>It might help that my small wrenches have a super sturdy surface coating making them rather comfortable to use when left out in the cold and prevents rust. This layer also seems to prevent the flow of thermal energy into the wrench. Note that they are not <em>chrome-plated</em> but more like an enamel-look, a glassy powder-coat or actually lacquered.</p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>When I need to mount something installed on the printer, I do the tightening as quickly as possible - the temperature of the measurement point and the temperature of the nozzle getting pressed into the heartbreak do not drop in the same instance, the nozzle will still be at the aimed for temperature when the thermosensor already has dropped.</p>
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