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2020-04-02T18:06:33.543 | |creality-ender-3|hotend|pid| | <p>So, I have created my own heater block for my 3D printer and mistakenly was using a 12 V, 40 W heater cartridge thinking that was the standard for my Ender 3, when in fact it is supplied with a 24 V, 40 W.</p>
<p>You may have seen my earlier post about when using autotune the temperature would overshoot by a large margin and returned the following error.</p>
<pre><code>PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high
</code></pre>
<p>Graph of Overshoot:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmPFA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmPFA.jpg" alt="PID Autotune fail graph"></a></p>
<p>I was unable to remove this overshoot even through manual tuning.</p>
<p>Now I have switched from the 12 V cartridge to the 24 V this problem is resolved, and I can now run the autotune. It follows a much more gradual curve when heating up so doesn't trigger the same error.</p>
<p>However, I am unsure why this is the case? Can anyone explain why the 12 V heater cartridge results in too high of a temperature increase?</p>
<p>It seems counterintuitive to me as I would have thought the higher voltage cartridge would heat up faster as opposed to vice versa?</p>
| 13310 | PID autotune fails 'Temp too high' with 12 V heater cartridge but works with 24 V? | <p>It is all about resistance. </p>
<p>This requires some formulae:</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$U = Voltage$</span><br>
<span class="math-container">$I = Current$</span><br>
<span class="math-container">$R = Resistance$</span><br>
<span class="math-container">$P = Power$</span><br></p>
<p><span class="math-container">$U = I \times R$</span><br></p>
<p><span class="math-container">$P = U \times R$</span><br></p>
<p><span class="math-container">$ R = \dfrac{P}{I^2} = \dfrac{U^2}{P} $</span><br></p>
<p>The 12 V, 40 W cartridge has a resistance of about 3.6 Ω.</p>
<p>If you use this cartridge at 24 V, this caculates to a power of 160 W!</p>
<p>This means that there is an enormous influx of heat that is hard to control, hence the overshoot.</p>
|
2020-04-03T03:14:04.910 | |homing|x-axis|print-axis-offset| | <p>I bought an Ender 3 recently. Auto-home is on the right front moving away from the end stop. I did reverse the wiring of the X axis motor, it did not work. I had Marlin 2.x uploaded, it didn't work too.</p>
<p>Marlin 2.x:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://pastebin.com/gfKKgHin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration.h</a></li>
<li><a href="https://pastebin.com/amyfeTQ1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration_adv.h</a></li>
</ul>
<p>The print starts off with a boundary line in the middle and goes off the bed on the right corner to print. Y and Z axes are fine. X axis seems to be bumping into the right front, every time while homing. I had tweaked little bit of Marlin, but I'm a beginner and I don't understand it completely.</p>
<p>I'm using Cura, printer settings, max X=235, max Y=235, max Z=250, origin at the center: unchecked.</p>
<p>This might help...</p>
<pre><code>// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 235
#define Y_BED_SIZE 235
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 250
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
</code></pre>
<p>(left this after so many trails)</p>
<p>In Pronterface the mid point X117.5 is at the middle right corner.</p>
<p>I'm thinking the printer is behaving like the origin(0,0) is on the right front, for X at least and it has nothing to do with the slicer.</p>
<p>It's about centering the prints, but it doesn't print on the bed mostly.</p>
<hr />
<p>Start G-code:</p>
<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
</code></pre>
<p>End G-code:</p>
<pre><code>G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
</code></pre>
| 13318 | Creality Ender 3 X axis homing issue | <p>I realize this is an old post, but in the event someone is having a similar problem and this post turns up in a search....</p>
<p>All three axis-stop switches are normally closed, and go open when the axis carriage hits the little lever. What this switch is doing is providing an easy low-resistance path to ground for the 3.3 (or 5) volt control card rail. You have the rail feeding this circuit through a 10K resistor (or some other relatively high value resistor), then the path forks; one fork to the limit switch, the other through a 100 ohm resistor to the microprocessor pin that handles the stop input. As long as that limit switch is closed and the circuit is good, the 3.3 volts goes through it to ground and the microprocessor never sees the 3.3 volts, the pin is "LOW." Once that switch is opened, the easy path to ground is removed, and the 3.3 volts goes to the microprocessor, and the pin goes "HIGH." If that switch or harness wiring has failed in a manner that opens that branch of the circuit, the card thinks the stop is <em>already</em> tripped, and won't allow motion towards the switch.</p>
<p>You can verify this easily enough by putting a meter on the two contacts in the Z-stop plug where it plugs into the control card (remove it from the card first so you aren't reading the <em>card</em> too.) Using the continuity function (buzzer or just reading ohms), you should get straight continuity with the switch at rest, and it should go open (infinite ohms) when you push the lever.<br />
This checks both the switch <em>and</em> the harness wiring. If you don't see that state-change from continuity to open when you push the lever, go up to the switch itself and pull the wires off it, and read the switch pins directly with the meter. Same deal, should read continuity when in the at rest state, and go open when you push the lever. If it does, then the harness wiring is bad. If not, the switch is junk or failing, soon to be junk.</p>
<p>A LOT of people have a LOT of trouble adding a BLTouch to their machines, with many reporting that the gantry won't go down no matter what they do short of turning the Z-screw(s) by hand. This is a direct result of removing the Z-stop switch wiring and/or switch. That easy route to ground was removed when the switch was disconnected/removed, and even worse, now the microprocessor has conflicting inputs as to the status of the Z axis, one input from the BLTouch telling it the Z-axis is untripped, and the missing switch is telling it that it's already tripped... therefore, no downward motion, only up.</p>
<p>To fix this you have to edit the firmware (configuration.h) in the section covering the state of the stop switches. They are all defaulted to "HIGH," meaning that if the microprocessor sees that voltage, it's tripped. Remember, anything that opens that circuit makes the associated pin to high (including disconnecting the Z-stop wiring from the control board, OR removing the switch and mounting bracket completely.) Doesn't seem to matter if you use the five-pin dedicated Z-probe socket for all five wires or put the black and white wires in the Z-stop socket and the other three in the Z-probe socket. You have to change the "tripped state" of the Z-axis in firmware from "HIGH" to "LOW," then build the new firmware and flash the control card with it. I beat my head against that BLTouch for nearly four months before I stumbled across this little factoid that nobody else was talking about (not anywhere <em>I</em> was looking, anyway, which was pretty much everywhere.)</p>
<p>Schematics are a HUGE help (for some things) if you can read them!</p>
|
2020-04-03T16:52:31.170 | |g-code|adhesion|petg| | <p>My printer is calibrated for a certain clearance from the heated bed, which is chosen based on PLA.</p>
<p>I would like to try to increase it for the first layer for PETG, so that adhesion is reduced. The printer has M5 screws with 4000 steps/mm, so the resolution clearly allows that. </p>
<p>I don't want to modify the printer, I would like a G-Code or another option that I can apply in Prusa slicer in association with the specific filament when desired. I don't want to change the flow rate of the first layer, only the "zero" distance.</p>
<p>How can I do that?</p>
| 13330 | How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance? | <p>If your environment supports it, you can also use a G54 to add a constant offset to any positioning. So, you could use:</p>
<pre><code>G53 ; clear offsets
G54 Z0.15 ; add 0.15mm to every Z position
</code></pre>
<p>Just remember to clear the offsets at the end of your gcode:</p>
<pre><code>G53 ; clear offsets
</code></pre>
|
2020-04-03T21:17:40.410 | |marlin|anet-a8| | <pre><code>Printer: Prusa i3 clone / Anet A8
Arduino IDE: Ver 1.8.12
Firmware: Marlin-2.0.2
anet-board-master: 1.5.6 (from hardware/anet/avr/platform.txt 2018-03-02)
Configurations-relese: 2.0.5 (Configuration.h, -adv.h)
OS: Windows 10
Board selection: Anet V1.0
</code></pre>
<p>I successfully upgraded the stock firmware to a version with bootloader, calibrated and had it running. I started to add features one at a time, recompile and upload. I managed to break it while trying to improve the LCD button debounce which I increased to 25 ms:</p>
<pre><code>#if HAS_ADC_BUTTONS
#define ADC_BUTTON_DEBOUNCE_DELAY 16 // (ms) Increase if buttons bounce or repeat too fast
#endif
</code></pre>
<p>The compile worked, transferred, showed the splash screen and went blank. This repeated on power-cycle. I reversed the change but was unable to restore operation.</p>
<p>I have tried reinstalling Arduino IDE, copying the folders in again and compiling with the default configurations. I'm getting lots of errors and the compiler exits with:</p>
<pre><code>C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_938465\sketch\src\MarlinCore.cpp:470:11: note: in expansion of macro 'disable_Z'
disable_Z();
^~~~~~~~~
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Anet V1.0.
</code></pre>
<p>Can anyone give me some guidance on how to get going again?</p>
| 13331 | Unable to compile Marlin for Anet A8 | <p>I'm almost back in business.</p>
<ol>
<li>I reinstalled the bootloader.</li>
<li>I switched from Arduino IDE to Visual Studio Code to compile using Crosslink's <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38PkynA1uGI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Anet A8 (Plus) Marlin 2.0 Installation Upgrade</a> YouTube tutorial.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>1. Bootloader</strong></p>
<p>I'm using a Chinese USBasp and there are some confusing tutorials on the web which require upgrading the USBasp firmware using another USBasp or Arduino. I avoided this as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>I used the Arduino IDE to open the Example | Blink.ino.</li>
<li>Tools | Board: "Anet V1.0 (Optiboot)". (Opti in optiboot means "optimised" so the bootloader will take up less space allowing you to use more options in your Marlin configuration.h.)</li>
<li>Tools | Programmer: "USBasp".</li>
<li>Tools | Burn Booloader. (This will generate the hex file to be transferred to the Anet board. Save it somewhere you will find it.)</li>
</ul>
<p>Download and install AVRDUDESS if you haven't got it. I used Ver. 2.11. Connect the USBasp to the Anet board and your computer.</p>
<ul>
<li>Start AVRDUDESS.</li>
<li>Port: usb.</li>
<li>Baud rate: 250000.</li>
<li>Hit the Detect button and it should identify your Anet board.</li>
<li>Hit the Flash [...] button and select the <strong>Blink.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex</strong> file.</li>
<li>Hit the <strong>Program</strong> button. It should all work.</li>
</ul>
<p>You now have an Anet board with the OptiBootLoader installed.</p>
<p>Now follow Crosslink's video tutorial above using the normal USB connection.</p>
|
2020-04-04T11:25:14.633 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>While I was having fun with my ender I burn out <strong>UP1 Chip</strong>.</p>
<p>Does anyone know <strong>which chip is that</strong> (I can't see because of burnt) and <strong>where can I order it</strong>?</p>
<p>Image: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVuxP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Damaged chip</a></p>
| 13337 | Creality v1.1.5 board replacement UP1 Chip | <p>It's an <strong>MP1584</strong> chip.
Guys on Reddit helped me out. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32958513528.html?spm=2114.search0301.3.14.220749f5Wpx4xL&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=a486b56c-998e-48c6-bcf3-3800d4adfaee&algo_expid=a486b56c-998e-48c6-bcf3-3800d4adfaee-2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link</a></p>
|
2020-04-06T05:40:58.337 | |marlin|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|skr-mini-e3| | <p>I've noticed an interesting behavior on my Ender 3 with SKR Mini E3 mainboard and Marlin 2.0.x bugfix firmware. (<em>otherwise, all other hardware is entirely stock</em>) After the hotend/bed are commanded to cool down, e.g. after a print completes, I have to wait until after they both cool down to ambient before commanding another temperature setpoint.</p>
<p>If I don't do this, the printer most often triggers thermal runaway protection. (<em>usually citing the extruder, but also sometimes the bed</em>) I think this might be due to the thermal inertia in the material between the heater and thermistors, causing a 5-10 second delay in sensed temperature rise. I don't see any reason why thermal runaway should trigger; the Octoprint temperature graph looks completely normal, with no perceptible anomalies.</p>
<p>Is there some way to tune parameters for thermal runaway protection to alleviate this false-positive situation?</p>
| 13353 | Thermal runaway triggers when raising temperature amid cooldown | <p>Yes there are ways to tune false positives. For Marlin firmware you can find these option in the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration_adv.h</a> file.</p>
<p>From the file itself you can read what you need to do:</p>
<blockquote>
<pre><code> * If you get false positives for "Thermal Runaway", increase
* THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD
*/
</code></pre>
</blockquote>
|
2020-04-07T09:19:21.100 | |creality-ender-3|z-axis| | <p>I'm trying to print a lithophane with my Ender 3, but the nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer, layer after layer.</p>
<p>I thought that what was causing the problem was perhaps a gear lock due to the fact that the Z rod wasn't parallel to the vertical axis, but after fixing it the problem remains.</p>
<p>The bed is super planar and perfectly levelled and, in fact, the first layer comes out perfectly.
Extrusion is also okay. The printer seems fine in all aspects.</p>
<p>It seems like the seriousness of the problem is proportional to the number of layers, just like the printer is losing a fixed height by each layer.</p>
<p>I've ruled out the possibility of wrong calibration of Z steps because after measuring a cube of 12 cm of height and telling the printer to raise 12 cm the cube fits perfectly under the nozzle with the levelling gap (so perfect calibration).</p>
<p><strong>What do you think may be the problem?</strong></p>
| 13358 | Ender 3 nozzle gets closer and closer to the previous layer as the print progresses | <p>Finally I've found the damn problem: <strong>Adjustable rollers of all axes were flat on one point</strong> making layers to shift in all directions.</p>
<p>The effect was less visible on the X and Y axes but it was more notable in the Z axis as the flat part was right from the start of the print. I think that flat part was making difficult for the Z axis to move upward, and making my prints fail when printing at higher resolutions (I guess the finer the displacement the weaker the torque).</p>
<p>It seemed to me that the nozzle was getting closer to the previous layer but instead it was resting (or barely moving) on the flat part of the Z right adjustable roller first and then on the other adjustable roller of the same axis.</p>
<p><strong>To diagnose the problem disable the steppers and moved the axes manually and feel if there are notches</strong>, so to speak, in various spots on every axis.</p>
<p><strong>The solution is to replace the rollers</strong> with new ones and to not close them too tight otherwise they'll deform over time.</p>
|
2020-04-08T08:28:42.607 | |ultimaker-cura|pla|adhesion|anycubic-i3-mega| | <p>For some time I've been struggling to print models with holes going all the way through from top to bottom. Models without those holes print out just fine. I've spend quite some time on levelling the bed, so I think the levelling is fine. I'm using Cura 4.5 with the default settings (normal profile) for the Anycubic I3 mega.</p>
<p>At first I had the problem of the initial circles not sticking to the bed. This is what it looked like:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCTyO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TCTyO.jpg" alt="lower right circle not sticking"></a></p>
<p>Then (after doing a lot of searching on the internet) I changed the following settings in Cura:</p>
<ul>
<li>Initial layer height: <strong>0.1</strong> -> <strong>0.3</strong> </li>
<li>Optimize wall printing order: <strong>false</strong> -> <strong>true</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>After that the circles seemed to stick better, but still the bottom layer looks quite messy. This is a picture of the bottom of the object printed with these settings:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPQ2O.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPQ2O.jpg" alt="bottom layer with altered settings"></a></p>
<p>And this is what it looks like from the top:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQWyl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQWyl.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>As you can see, it still gets quite messy around the circles, and they seem to be detached from the rest of the model.</p>
<p>After this (and doing a lot more browsing) I decided to make the following change in Cura:</p>
<ul>
<li>Retraction extra prime amount <strong>0</strong> -> <strong>0.07</strong></li>
</ul>
<p>But to be honest, I have not clue what this really does. This is what the initial layer (of another model) looked liked after changing that setting:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY3r0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DY3r0.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>And after a couple of layers it looked like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yT7Wf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yT7Wf.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Now (finally) my question, does anyone have an idea on how to make my prints (especially the connection of the circles with the rest of the model) better?</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
| 13366 | Problem printing circles/holes on Anycubic I3 mega | <p>From your images can be seen that:</p>
<ul>
<li>Your nozzle is too far from the bed (the lines are not touching), so you either need to level with a less thick paper or allow for more friction between the paper and the nozzle. There is also a plugin for Cura to set a Z-offset.</li>
<li>You need to enable <code>Combing mode</code> = <code>Not in Skin</code> and possibly fine tune your retraction settings.</li>
<li>You could benefit from some more adhesion using an adhesion spray.</li>
</ul>
|
2020-04-08T21:36:05.040 | |3d-models|stl|prusaslicer| | <p>I am trying to write a program that edits a 3mf file by defines different slicing parameters for different stls that I have previously merged into my 3mf file, but I am a little bit confused about the configuration of the 3mf file, and where I would look to make changes in the slicing parameters. Can anyone lead me in the right direction as to where I could look? I'm assuming that I wouldn't be making any changes to the .model file because it seems like it only holds information about the meshes.</p>
<p>Thanks and let me know if it would be helpful for me to clarify anything.</p>
| 13371 | How can I include seperate Slicing Parameters in my 3mf file | <p>Huh. On a hunch I just changed a copy of a .3mf model to have a <code>.zip</code> file extension, and what do you know, it works! 3mf is just a set of compressed xml. </p>
<p>The zip folder structure I saw included a <code>MetaData</code> folder. I bet you could put just about anything you wanted in there, as long as it doesn't conflict with things other 3mf parsers are expecting to find.</p>
<p>I tested this. I dumped an unrelated pdf file into the folder and re-zipped it. Both MS 3D Builder and Cura were able to open the updated file just fine. However, saving the file again in 3D Builder did not preserve the PDF.</p>
<p>I suppose there's a lesson here, too: we may need to be wary of models we download off the internet. They could include literally <strong>anything</strong>.</p>
<p>This also raises an interesting possibility: password protected 3mf files. If 3mf is just a zip container, and zip files can have passwords, it follows logically that 3mf files can have passwords.</p>
|
2020-04-10T04:04:38.050 | |print-quality|prusa-i3|troubleshooting|infill| | <p>I'm having some issues with my Prusa i3 prints. I'm trying to print the default beer opener print that came with the Prusa's memory card but the infill will break causing clogging and now allowing the print to finish. I've attached a picture of one of the failed prints.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNPn4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNPn4.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I've checked Prusa's website and tried tightening the extruder gears and made sure the gears are clean. I'm using the PLA sent with the printer (1.75 mm) and with a default G-code file so I'm fairly sure it is a hardware issue, but I'm not sure what the issue could be. </p>
<p><a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/7-problems-affecting-quality-of-3d-prints/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here is the link</a> that I've used to help me troubleshoot.</p>
| 13376 | Issues with print Prusa i3 infill breaking and causing clogs | <p>The issue was the filament sent with the printer was PETG and not PLA like this gcode file called for.</p>
|
2020-04-10T17:46:50.973 | |ultimaker-cura|slicing| | <p>Is is possible to have alternating numbers of lines for the outer wall between each layer? So, say, one layer will have 3 lines for the wall, the next layer, 2, then the next layer 3, then 2 again, and so on? Even better, if I could group them in twos: two layers with 3 lines, two layers with 2 lines, repeat until done.</p>
<p>I use Cura, but if other slicers can do this I'd like to hear about it, too.</p>
| 13381 | Alternating number of lines for the shell between layers | <p>It is possible to get an alternate extra wall in Ultimaker Cura, the option is called <code>Alternate extra wall</code>. It can be used to catch the infill more firmly, strengthening the print.</p>
<p>From <a href="https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ultimaker support</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<h2>Alternate extra wall</h2>
<p>This setting adds an extra wall every other layer. This way the infill gets caught between the walls, resulting in stronger prints. For example, if you set the wall line count to two walls and enable alternate extra wall, it will print two walls on even numbered layers and three walls on odd numbered layers.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Baudr.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="cross section schematics of a print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Baudr.png" alt="cross section schematics of a print" title="cross section schematics of a print"></a></p>
</blockquote>
<p>I've used this option frequently, but I'm not aware of any option that you can change the amount of layers alternating. You can do that probably with the option to set different options for different sections of the model, see e.g. "<a href="/a/6523">Different infill in the same part</a>".</p>
|
2020-04-10T17:59:57.533 | |creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|hotend| | <p>I've already asked this question somewhere else but unfortunately I had little luck.</p>
<p>So... my Ender 3 Pro extruder just started skipping steps, as in the gears (and the gear pinion) will rotate but the filament won't flow. It all started when I changed PLA filament to a new roll; I thought it might have been the roll faulty so I've tried a spool that had been working fine until 2 hours before it all started. Nope, skipping with that one as well.</p>
<p>Here's what I've tried doing so far:</p>
<ul>
<li>Replaced the stock PTFE tubing with Capricorn tubing.</li>
<li>Checked that the tubing is tight and does not have play.</li>
<li>Replaced the whole extruder system (except for the extruder motor) with a metal Creality system.</li>
<li>Performed various cold pulls.</li>
<li>Replaced the nozzle.</li>
<li>Upped the extruding temperature from 195 °C to 205 °C.</li>
<li>Checked that there's the correct distance between the bed and the nozzle.</li>
<li>Yelled at the printer.</li>
<li>Asked for advice to my cats.</li>
</ul>
<p>None of the above worked, and my cats looked funny at me. Print settings as below:</p>
<ul>
<li>Filament diameter in the slicer 1.75mm (yes I've checked).</li>
<li>Temperature: 195 °C, upped to 205 °C.</li>
<li>Print speed: from 20 mm/s for the first layers to 50 mm/s for the infill.</li>
</ul>
<p>I've also reverted back to the old PTFE tubing as I noticed that the Capricorn was giving too much resistance to the filament. Nope, still skipping.</p>
<p>I've noticed that the extruder gear grips quite firmly onto the filament, so much so that when it starts slipping it actually eats away the filament until it breaks. It's almost like there's a clog somewhere but the tubing is clear, the hot end is clear (I've cleared it and checked multiple times), and the nozzle is brand new.</p>
<p>What else can I try? Have I missed something? Apart from the changes listed above (carried out after the extruder started skipping), the printer is absolutely stock, firmware and everything.</p>
<p><strong>UPDATE:</strong> I've changed the factory hot end bloc with a brand new one, changed PTFE tubing one again, making sure it's as close as possible to the nozzle (unscrew nozzle 1/2 turn, fit PTFE, screw nozzle in) but it didn't change anything at all. </p>
<p>The extruder still skips steps as it can't push the filament out of the nozzle. Pushing it manually feels nice and smooth until it hits the nozzle, where I can feel too much resistance.</p>
<p><strong>UPDATE 2:</strong> I've modifed the following parameters on the EEPROM to limit the filament flow:</p>
<pre><code>M203 Z5.00 E25.00
M201 E1000
</code></pre>
<p>I've also crancked the temperature up to 220°C but it made no difference whatsoever. What I've noticed is that, after cleaning hot end and tubing, it starts skipping after 1 hour of printing, every single time without fail.</p>
<p><strong>UPDATE 3:</strong> I've checked the input voltage from the PSU and it's 24V; the Vref for the extruder is 0.744V, so everything looks as expected.</p>
<p><strong>UPDATE 4:</strong> The extruder idler pulley has a compression washer to hold it in place without impeding idle spinning; it is usually mounted in the order idler pulley, compression washer and bolt. I've noticed that the pulley wasn't spinning freely this way, so I inverted the order to compression washer, idler pulley and bolt. The bolt head is small enough not to stop the pulley from spinning.</p>
<p>I've also increased the pressure the spring arm excise on the idler pulley, so that the toothed pulley grips more firmly on the filament.</p>
<p>This way I've managed to improve things although not solve them. It's been printing for the last 3 and a half hour without skipping but it's not a solution, as the toothed gear is chewing too aggressively on the filament. In just one hour a good deposit of PLA shavings has formed on the extruder, and I had to blow it away, and this never happened before this all started.</p>
| 13382 | Ender 3 pro extruder skipping steps, tried multiple things | <p>In case anyone else also runs into this problem and has tried everything above, here is how you fix it for good.</p>
<p>While the direct drive extruder might work, it may seem odd to some that the system that previously worked fine now doesn't and needs a complete rebuild.</p>
<p>The problem is caused by a faulty cooling fan for the heat sink. Replace the AXIAL fan on the hotend. That is not the radial fan that is used to cool the print.</p>
<p>The devious thing about this problem is that the symptoms occur seemingly randomly which is caused by the rather slow heat transfer in the heat sink. At some point during the print a critical temperature is reached which deforms/lengthens the heat sink and opens up gaps in the path of the filament. Those gaps cause the filament to get stuck.</p>
<p>The other devious thing is that the cooling fan appears to be working alright but is not. I assume the rotational speed is lower than would be necessary but that can not be verified with the means currently at my disposal.</p>
|
2020-04-11T00:18:51.070 | |creality-ender-3|underextrusion| | <p>I'm printing stacked Prusa COVID-19 face shields on a modded Ender 3. It works fairly well until the second layer of masks, where we get this weird effect that's kind of like stringing. It looks like the curve is becoming "low poly." I'm sorry that I can't be more specific, but I really don't know how to describe it more than this. Please look at the pictures to get more info. </p>
<p>One of the strangest things is that it worked earlier with the same slicer and the same profile. I am using PrusaSlicer, but I tried it with Cura and it still didn't work. There are a few more problems with the prints: some under-extrusion on the supports, and some spots had little gaps between the layers. </p>
<p>Does anyone have any fixes for any of these problems? I would mainly like to know about the strange kind of stringing because that actually prevents me from stacking prints. </p>
<p>I am printing Overture PETG at 240 on the nozzle and 80 on the bed. This is at a speed of 50 mm per second. I have the Basaraba Innovations direct drive mod, the Creality silent board with TH3D Unified Firmware based on Marlin 1.1.9, and the EZABL Pro.</p>
<p>Please look at the pictures to see what is happening.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBYu2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBYu2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/koHSS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/koHSS.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TveJc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TveJc.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/urpmX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/urpmX.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOLcQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOLcQ.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/T21Ng.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/T21Ng.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMDNI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMDNI.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PnvN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PnvN.jpg" alt=""></a></p>
| 13385 | Strange stringing-like activity when printing face shields | <p>It turns out that the brand of PETG that I was using was not good for stacking prints. I tried another brand of PETG and it worked perfectly. Thank you for all of the suggestions of what could be the problem. If you are stacking face shields (or any other print), do not use Overture PETG.</p>
|
2020-04-11T12:07:51.927 | |creality-ender-3|bed| | <p>I just got an Ender 3 Pro at the beginning of the week and have been printing a lot. I creased the magnetic plate cover, not realizing how it would hold up to being bent. This led to uneven printing and nozzle issues, so I stopped using it.</p>
<p>Is there any problem with printing directly onto the platform itself, without a cover?</p>
| 13391 | Can I print directly onto the bed plate? (Ender 3 Pro) | <p>I've printed for several years direct onto the 3 mm heated bed of the Anet A8 I used; worked perfectly! I did use a specific 3D print spray for adhesion, see e.g. <a href="/a/6861">this answer</a> on "<a href="/q/3710/">Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer?</a>".</p>
|
2020-04-11T16:53:48.833 | |printer-building|delta|kossel| | <p>A couple years back I received a Kossel XL kit from builda3dprinter.eu as a gift, but I stopped building it because multiple parts were missing, including printed parts. Now that I'm building a Prusa MK3S, I'm considering buying some of the parts and finding the stl files to print the printed parts. However I'm having a bit of trouble finding the files for the exact model, and finding the printed parts for the XL, rather than the mini. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and advice from people who built the same printer would be incredible. Thanks!</p>
| 13393 | Looking for files for printed parts for my Kossel XL kit from Builda3Dprinter.eu | <p>I bought 2 of these kits 4 years ago, and I have been really pleased with the quality of the kits and the results. Sadly this supplier is no longer trading, as he could not compete with low cost imports from the far east.</p>
<p>I have the STL files for the printer kit, so you should be able to print any parts you need.</p>
<p>I have created a <a href="https://github.com/jsryork/Kossel-XL-printable-parts" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Github repository with a ZIP file of the parts files</a> I downloaded from the builda3dprinter.eu website.</p>
|
2020-04-12T19:58:24.887 | |marlin|hotend|heat-management|pid| | <p>Recently I decided to upgrade my Geeetech A10 (GT2560 v3.0 board) with E3D Chimera, Marlin 2.0.3 and more powerful 50 W heater cartridge. I wired everything up and tried to PID tune the hot end, but I got a problem. </p>
<p>When the tuning ends and I use the values with <code>M301</code>, the values are too agressive and the hot end initially overshoots more than 15 °C. After that the temperature is rock steady.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKZgl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Overshooting the temperature"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKZgl.png" alt="Overshooting the temperature" title="Overshooting the temperature"></a></p>
<p>The tuned values are <code>P=9.4 I=0.47</code> and <code>D=46.4</code>. </p>
<p>I tried to change the values according the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ziegler%E2%80%93Nichols_method" rel="nofollow noreferrer">wikipedia table</a> to no overshoot (<code>P=3,13 I=0.47</code> and <code>D=123.7</code>), but it just made the temperature unstable. </p>
<p>I also tried to tune the values manually but with no succes. I even tried to use zeros for all three gains but it just oscilated ±10 °C and still overshot.</p>
<p>My guess is that the cartridge is too powerful for the Marlin PID tuning.</p>
<p>Is there a setting in the firmware where I can set the PWM value for the PID tuning? To slow the heating down? I tried to use <code>M301 E1 P0.25 S200 C10</code> but it seems that it didnt use the <code>P</code> parameter.</p>
<p>Or is there a way to manually tune the values without the printer? I've got an Arduin Uno and RPi Zero availible. Or do I have to buy another less powerful cartridge?</p>
| 13401 | PID tuning 50 W cartridge in Marlin | <p>Besides the <code>P</code>, <code>I</code> and <code>D</code> values, you may also have to tune <code>PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE</code> and <code>PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX</code>.</p>
<p>Basically, the functional range disables PID control when more than the set number of degrees away from the target temperature and just puts the heater to zero/maximum power. The integral drive max parameter limits the value of the integral term of the PID controller.</p>
<p><a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The RepRap wiki</a> notes: <em>(note this wiki is dated! some options might not be available)</em></p>
<blockquote>
<p>In Marlin, the parameters that control and limit the PID controller can have more significant effects than the popular PID parameters. For example, PID_MAX and PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE, and PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX can each have dramatic, unexpected effects on PID behavior. For instance, a too-large PID_MAX on a high-power heater can make autotuning impossible; a too-small PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE can cause odd reset behavior; a too large PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE can guarantee overshoot; and a too-small PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX can cause droop.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>My hunch is that the functional range may be too small; the PID doesn't kick in until close to the desired temperature at which point you will already have overshot the target (due to the high power heater and delay in the measurements). Once you've overshot the target temperature the integral term starts growing (negative) which causes the massive undershoot.</p>
|
2020-04-13T04:35:47.093 | |extruder|creality-ender-3|stepper| | <p>I have a relatively new Ender 3 Pro, stock except for adding a tempered glass bed. I've fed about 3 kg of PLA filament so far, all Solutech brand. Near the end of the last reel, I started hearing a chunk noise. It varies in rate, between several/minute to going 10-15 between chunks. This has continued into a brand new, just unsealed reel so I don't think it's associated with the filament.</p>
<p>I was able to finally discover that the sound is coming from the extruder stepper area and was able to see that when this happens, the filament drive wheel snaps back maybe 30-40 degrees. (This happens in the middle of printing a line, not when the filament retracts between lines.) I'm assuming that the stepper motor is slipping. There is no sign of gaps in the printed model nor is the filament on the reel binding that I can see.</p>
<p>I'm guessing maybe that the filament is being fed faster than the hot end can accept it, causing back pressure.</p>
<p>I'm using Cura 4.4.0 as my slicer the whole time and while I have changed some settings, everything associated with speed, feed rate, hot end temperature and such are all stock. I did not notice this happening until recently.</p>
<p>Has anyone seen this happen before? Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?</p>
| 13403 | Ender 3 Pro Extruder Stepper Skipping with a Chunk sound | <p>UPDATE 3-May-2020: I have now confirmed that the problem was the extruder. Specifically, the input port which was causing the filament to bind. The front of the input port is a metal ring but the back is just plastic and and has worn from the PLA filament, as seen in this photo:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv8wp.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xv8wp.jpg" alt="Close up of back of extruder port"></a>
After some delay (see my other question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13557/need-sanity-check-debugging-non-functional-extruder">here</a>) I have installed the new, all-metal extruder (original stepper), the clacking is gone as well as the significant under-extrusion. (I also replaced the Bowden tube and print bed springs but I don't believe these were the problem).</p>
<p>Having seen what a few km of PLA did, I highly recommend upgrading the extruder.</p>
<p>Side point: immediately after the replacement, I started getting corners lifting off the bed which I hadn't seen before. I realized that the new drive gear was slightly smaller than the old so I checked the extruder calibration and it was about 10% low. I adjusted the extruder steps/mm from 93 to 99 to correct for this.</p>
<hr>
<p>Original:</p>
<p>It appears the problem was the filament binding in the entry to the extruder assembly. I did start seeing signs of under extrudement such as the outer layer of a rectangular object separating of the rest of the body. Later, the problem became worse, with a lot of clanking, to the point that prints became quite fragile.</p>
<p>I have ordered a all-metal extruder assembly and will update as I get new results.</p>
<p>By the way, I'm really not sure why it's binding but running a strip of filament through the entrance hole, it sure seem to be binding. But in trying to disassemble the extruder and starting by removing the filament, I managed to get molten filament in the bowden tube. Without thinking about it, I pulled the blob all the way into the fitting for the extruder, plugging it so much that I cannot get the fitting off nor push it back into the tube. Anyway, I'm taking the opportunity to upgrade the extruder, tube and springs.</p>
|
2020-04-13T19:47:17.077 | |underextrusion|print-failure|artillery-sidewinder-x1| | <p><strong>TL;DR;</strong> </p>
<p>My initial answer fixed the problem for a while, but it still persists occurring... (see update 2 below)</p>
<hr>
<p><em>Original question body:</em></p>
<p>Print fails at random resulting in a hairy mess although I:</p>
<ul>
<li>cleaned bed,</li>
<li>added glue,</li>
<li>leveled bed,</li>
<li>tweaked temperatures and cooling,</li>
<li>cleaned nozzle,</li>
<li>tightened wheels, checked the axes,</li>
<li>tried to print temperature tower.</li>
</ul>
<p>What else to do ? </p>
<hr>
<p>First off, the equipment I use:</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: Artillery Sidewinder X1</li>
<li>Slicer: Cura</li>
<li>Filament: PLA</li>
</ul>
<p>At first the prints came out as expected. </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hCbM.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hCbM.jpg" alt="first"></a></p>
<p>There is some bending at the bottom, that was later resolved by adding a brim. The object above and the ones later were printed with roughly the same settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>Layer height: 0.28 mm</li>
<li>Wall line Count 3</li>
<li>Top/Bottom Layers 3</li>
<li>Infill 40% cubic</li>
<li>Printing temp. 205 °C</li>
<li>Bed temp. 60 °C</li>
<li>Print Speed 40 mm/s</li>
<li>Retraction on</li>
<li>100 % Fan speed</li>
<li>added Brim (after the first)</li>
</ul>
<p>Yesterday that same part failed after 4 hours. I had to stop the print because the printer was making "a hairy mess" around the object. </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhXi5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhXi5.jpg" alt="Second try"></a></p>
<p>As you can see there was some under extrusion earlier in the print which I didn't notice at first.
I thought the part came loose since it had little to none adhesion to the bed and after cleaning the bed properly and using some glue I started the print again. The result was the same, this time the print failed a bit earlier.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfKWX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfKWX.jpg" alt="Second and third"></a></p>
<p>(The small part was printed on top of the loose mess before it failed completly)</p>
<p>This time the bottom was quite loose again. After that I decided to print some smaller parts and do some troubleshooting first. I noticed some weird looking "curly" lines right away and stopped the print. It looked like "under extrusion" and a "not properly leveled bed". (Notice that didn't happen in the prints before). So, after leveling the bed and printing the small part again the part got printed well until the top 3 layers which looked under extruded again and I could see the infill pattern through them.</p>
<p>I added 5 °C to the printing temperature and (the smaller parts had 30 % infill) upped the infill to 40 %. That didnt resolve the issue completly but the print looked well enough and I had another go at a slightly bigger print. </p>
<p>This time not quite as tall at the ones before and it failed again. The first hour or so everything looked fine, but the printer was getting quite noisy, every retraction was a very loud clicking sound the printer itself was shaking quite a bit during movement and the print failed again. This time the object was very firmly on the bed and I had to use some force to get it off.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4paHF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4paHF.jpg" alt="fourth"></a></p>
<p>The noise and shaking made me check the axis and tightened the wheels a little bit and after that I cleaned the nozzle with a "cold pull". The last thing I did was printing a temperature tower which failed in the same way and looks quite bad overall.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVoTP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVoTP.jpg" alt="Temp"></a></p>
<p>So my question is: Where do I go from here? I'm quite new to 3D printing, there still seems to be some under extrusion going on, what are my next steps ?</p>
<p>Please note that it seems that the filament curls up at the tip of the nozzle randomly, resulting in a few lines not getting placed properly on the already printed parts. Eventuelly the print then fails. When I push filament throught it curls up and the stream is relatively thin. Not always though, most of the time it looks fine maybe a bit thin.
Can that be a clogged nozzle if X layers get printed ok, then for 5 seconds it messes up and then prints okay again?</p>
<p><strong>[Update]</strong></p>
<p>After changing the nozzle the filament stopped curling up and the lines look much, much better. But the problem persists. I started 2 prints, both failed a couple of minutes in. The second one on the first layer. It seems that the nozzle picked the just printed lines up.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdsBP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdsBP.jpg" alt="line 1"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6Thk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6Thk.jpg" alt="line 2"></a></p>
<p><strong>[UPDATE 2]</strong></p>
<p>Back to square 1. It seems that I fixed a problem that I created while trying to fix the original problem. </p>
<p>After 4 successful prints and ~20 hours of printing the last print failed in the exact same way as shown in the pictures above. The filament is curling up at the nozzle again. The heatblock is <strong>not</strong> leaking.</p>
<ul>
<li>new heatblock</li>
<li>new heatbreak</li>
<li>new nozzle</li>
<li><p>new tubing between nozzle and idler</p></li>
<li><p>old filament</p></li>
<li>old print profile, settings</li>
</ul>
<p>I guess the nozzle is clogged ?! Can that be after such short printing times ? I dont want to clean everything for 2 hours after every print. Or worse change everything out after 15 hours or so.</p>
| 13406 | Print failing at random, resulting in a "hairy" mess | <p>After I finally had the time to disassemble the extruder and I found a possible culprit - which did solve the issue for some time.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oAiA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oAiA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/833Cb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/833Cb.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>As you can see on the pictures the heater block leaked and this lead to some filament dripping off of the side and onto the print. The nozzle then eventually caught these drips and this caused the mess.</p>
<p>Here are some tipps for beginners like me:</p>
<ol>
<li><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cwp_jRUyUoA&t=64s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to disassemble the extruder on the Sidewinder X1</a></p>
</li>
<li><p>Be carefull when trying to screw the nozzle out. You will most likely need some heat to soften up / melt the filament. I was not carefull and broke the thread. I then had to replace the whole heatblock.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Examine the tubing that leads the filament through the heatbreak and to the thread of the nozzle mine was a little bit deformed and didn't seem to be cut off straight to begin with.It has to be as flat as possible against the nozzle thread!</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>This was most likely the problem, Over time and after several melting ,hardening and melting procedures some filament creeped between the threads and the heatblock started to leak .. first slowly then worse and worse.</p>
<p>Hope that helps anyone. My prints come out great again. Plus I now know a lot more about my printer .</p>
<p><strong>the original problem reappeared, see my update 2 of my question</strong></p>
<p><strong>[UPDATE]</strong></p>
<p>Just to close this off: I can only guess what the original problem was but since I had this issue some times now I am quite certain, that it has to be bad filament (I am using really cheap one) and a relatively dusty environment, mixed with overreacting when trying to solve this issue. I got some needles with which I - fairly regularly - unclog / clean the nozzle especially after longer times without use.</p>
|
2020-04-14T13:13:00.820 | |pla|print-material|petg| | <p>PLA has a heat capacity of <a href="https://www.sd3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MaterialTDS-PLA_01.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1.8-2.1 J/g-K</a>, while <a href="http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=4de1c85bb946406a86c52b688e3810d0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PETG 1.1-1.3 J/g-K</a>. This means that each gram of PLA needs more energy to heat up. I assume no "melting latent energy", since we talk about plastics.</p>
<p>The density is about the same.</p>
<p>Still, printing speed for PETG is said to be kept at max at 60 mm/s, while PLA can easily go up to 100 mm/s.</p>
<p>Why is PETG supposed to be printed slower than PLA?</p>
<p>Edit: a link to a more recent question may be of interest: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10173/power-consumption-of-filament-extrusion/10175?noredirect=1#comment30444_10175">Power consumption of filament extrusion</a></p>
| 13412 | Why does PETG require slower speed? | <p>I'm adding this answer to somewhat challenge the findings of my original answer, and the premise of the question: PETG does not need lower print speeds, and can even be printed at higher speeds than PLA under some conditions due to reduced need for cooling. You can see this from some of the "#speedboatrace" entries printed with PETG. So what was really going on with the original claim and my agreement with it?</p>
<p>I think my original answer is still somewhat true: it's likely that it takes more hotend power to melt PETG at a rate that can be successfully extruded <em>and bonded</em> than to do the same for PLA. But there are other factors at play in the perception that "PETG has to be printed slow".</p>
<p>FarO did not specify details of the printer(s) in question, but I found the big limiting factor for my Ender 3 printing PETG was the stock extruder, which presumably was skipping bad to begin with, and even worse with Linear Advance, trying to keep the filament under high pressure to compensate for its compressibility. Since replacing the extruder with a direct drive one, I've had no problem printing PETG at the same speed as PLA, and both can print much faster than I ever could with the stock bowden extruder.</p>
|
2020-04-16T19:42:00.073 | |creality-ender-3|heated-bed| | <p>I have two options - to buy either the Ender 3 or the Mega Zero. I'm heading towards Ender 3 because the Mega Zero doesn't have a heated bed. </p>
<p>My question is, how is a printer without a heated bed (the Mega Zero) a better option than one with a heated bed (the Ender 3)?</p>
<p>Why would I even consider buying a printer without a heated bed when the Ender 3 can do the same things <strong>and</strong> has a heated bed? I want be able to print not only PLA but other materials as well. Doesn't the Mega Zero limit you to using only PLA?</p>
| 13432 | Is a heated bed an essential component for printing (difference between Creality Ender 3 or Anycubic Mega Zero)? | <p>I used to print PLA with my heated bed turned off, since it was deforming when heated.</p>
<p>It works perfectly fine, only detaching the print was terribly difficult.</p>
<p>I would not buy a printer without it, because even a weak bed reaching only 50°C gives you many more possibilities.</p>
<p>I mean, you could use it to keep your coffee warm while you work at the computer, or to warm up chemical solutions to make them react faster. You can also use the bed to shake the solution!</p>
<p>Go for a heated bed.</p>
|
2020-04-17T06:43:18.310 | |g-code|calibration|slic3r| | <p>I watched with great interest <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YnB9RsMN1o" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this video: Temp Tower - Slic3r Gcode Placeholders - How To - Chris's Basement -- Jan 23, 2019 Chris Riley</a> </p>
<p>I found a model I'm happy with: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Smart compact temperature calibration tower by gaaZolee, December 24, 2017</a> Uses Layer 0.20 mm infill: 15 % </p>
<p>I'm testing a stubborn new spool of PLA. Temp range of test 225 °C to 180 °C. That model above came with recommended <code>if</code>statements. I verified that with 100 % thickness on first layer, I'm exactly hitting all the Z targets at exactly the correct place for each temperature story on the tower. </p>
<p>I'm using the Slic3r "Printer Settings" tab - to place my <code>if</code> statements in place at "Before Layer Change G-Code". </p>
<p>It's not clear to me on the format required for a G-Code <code>{if}</code> statement. I've tried... </p>
<pre><code>{if layer_z == 7.8}M104 S225{endif}; // fail, this converts to: M104 S225 {endif}
{if layer_z==1.6}M104 S225 // fail, this converts to: M104 S225
{if [layer_z]==1.6} M104 S225 // fails, this converts to: (null)
{if [layer_num]==8} M104 S225 // fails, this converts to: (null)
{if layer_num==8} M104 S225 // fails, this converts to: M104 S225
</code></pre>
<p>In detail what I'm seeing is the if statements from all ten towers prints as <em>change temp to 225, 220, 215, 210... down to 180 (last entry)</em> and 180 °C is where ALL my prints get printed at. Total Fail. </p>
<p>I'm just not seeing anything in the Gcode output from Slic3r that remotely looks like an <code>if</code> statement. Any ideas here? I've seen <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/conditional-gcode" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this reference, on advanced conditional G-Code</a> but I'm just not understanding what to do here. </p>
<p>I do see from <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/placeholder-parser" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slic3r Custom G-Code Placeholder Reference</a>, that I'm using the correct terms. <em>[layer_z] - Z height of the active layer</em>, and <em>[layer_num] - Integer number of the active layer</em>. It's not clear if their use in "Before Layer Change G-Code" require the square brackets or not. </p>
<p>Any clues on how to get an if statement into G-Code via Slic3r for a temperature tower print?</p>
| 13437 | Temp Tower Setup Troubles -- Slic3r (How do you format G-Code {if} statements?) | <p>So I think I figured this one out. I was looking at it a bit wrong. And here's my code:</p>
<pre><code>; Note to self: layer_z = [layer_z]
; T tower floor 1
{if [layer_z]==1.6} M104 S225 T0
; T tower floor 2
{if [layer_z]==11.6} M104 S220 T0
; T tower floor 3
{if [layer_z]==21.6} M104 S215 T0
; T tower floor 4
{if [layer_z]==31.6} M104 S210 T0
; T tower floor 5
{if [layer_z]==41.6} M104 S205 T0
; T tower floor 6
{if [layer_z]==51.6} M104 S200 T0
; T tower floor 7
{if [layer_z]==61.6} M104 S195 T0
; T tower floor 8
{if [layer_z]==71.6} M104 S190 T0
; T tower floor 9
{if [layer_z]==81.6} M104 S185 T0
; T tower floor 10
{if [layer_z]==91.6} M104 S180 T0
</code></pre>
<p>The key to understanding what is going on is the <code>; Note to self: layer_z = [layer_z]</code> line. The whole block of code above gets repeated for every layer of the print in the G-code, but it gets evaluated. And when I search for "layer z =" and scan thru the code.. I eventually see this...</p>
<pre><code>; Note to self: layer_z = 1.6
; T tower floor 1
M104 S225 T0 <---- Yowza. Nice.
; T tower floor 2
; T tower floor 3
; T tower floor 4
; T tower floor 5
; T tower floor 6
; T tower floor 7
; T tower floor 8
; T tower floor 9
; T tower floor 10
</code></pre>
<p>and then again:</p>
<pre><code>; Note to self: layer_z = 11.6
; T tower floor 1
; T tower floor 2
M104 S220 T0 <---- Yes!
; T tower floor 3
...
</code></pre>
<p>All good. You have to have {} and [] within the code statements...</p>
<p>Addendum: So it turns out things are not quite perfect. I'm noticing at the upper floors, where things should be cooler, the temperature isn't changing. Its locked at 215C. I see this in the code:</p>
<pre><code>; Note to self: layer_z = 31.5999999999999 <--- not sure how that happened.
; T tower floor 1
; T tower floor 2
; T tower floor 3
; T tower floor 4
; T tower floor 5
; T tower floor 6
; T tower floor 7
; T tower floor 8
; T tower floor 9
; T tower floor 10
</code></pre>
<p><code>31.6</code> would have triggered a temperature change. <code>31.5999999999999</code> won't do it. I need to modify the <code>{if... == }</code> to a complex test between two values... Just wanted to share that observation here.</p>
<p>I do see from <a href="https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/conditional-gcode" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this reference</a> that</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Expressions may be chained for an implicit AND:</p>
<p><code>{if [layer_num] == 10}{if [temperature_1] != 210}M104 S210</code></p>
</blockquote>
<p>And this seems to fix it:</p>
<pre><code>; Note to self: layer_z = [layer_z]
; T tower floor 1
{if [layer_z]<=1.65}{if [layer_z]>1.55} M104 S225 T0
; T tower floor 2
{if [layer_z]<=11.65}{if [layer_z]>11.55} M104 S220 T0
; T tower floor 3
{if [layer_z]<=21.65}{if [layer_z]>21.55} M104 S215 T0
; T tower floor 4
{if [layer_z]<=31.65}{if [layer_z]>31.55} M104 S210 T0
; T tower floor 5
{if [layer_z]<=41.65}{if [layer_z]>41.55} M104 S205 T0
; T tower floor 6
{if [layer_z]<=51.65}{if [layer_z]>51.55} M104 S200 T0
; T tower floor 7
{if [layer_z]<=61.65}{if [layer_z]>61.55} M104 S195 T0
; T tower floor 8
{if [layer_z]<=71.65}{if [layer_z]>71.55} M104 S190 T0
; T tower floor 9
{if [layer_z]<=81.65}{if [layer_z]>81.55} M104 S185 T0
; T tower floor 10
{if [layer_z]<=91.65}{if [layer_z]>91.55} M104 S180 T0
</code></pre>
|
2020-04-20T04:34:04.407 | |filament|fdm|filament-choice| | <p>Does a filament exist that can resist ozone (like certain silicone tubing's can). Most glass bottles come with tin or plastic screw hard tops and I would like to replace the screw caps with something that is more resistant to ozone.</p>
<p>The reason for this is I make my own homemade ozonated oil in glass bottles and I would like to print out different hard screw top caps for some of the bottles.</p>
| 13466 | Filament that is resistant to ozone | <p>This is highly relevant: PETG is very resistant to Ozone.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical-resistance-chart" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical-resistance-chart</a></p>
|
2020-04-20T11:32:15.947 | |bed| | <ul>
<li>I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?</li>
<li>Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEr8Z.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEr8Z.png" alt="finished print on print bed, with outlines annotated"></a></p>
<p>Update, I received a hint that an existing question has the answer; that link was not really to my satisfaction -- but it did link to another one that did: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20/what-are-main-differences-between-rafts-skirts-and-brims">What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?</a></p>
| 13472 | What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints? | <blockquote>
<p>I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is an option found under the "Build Plate Adhesion" options in your slicer. The primary function of the skirt is to get the flow going, but there are more benefits you can get from the skirt:</p>
<ul>
<li>You can find out whether the bed is correctly levelled, or if the bed has concave or convex areas (the skirt should be a line, I prefer at least 2 lines, of consistent thickness, if not, this may hint to incorrect levelling;</li>
<li>You can find out if there is enough or a sufficient amount of adhesive (e.g. glue stick, hair spray, specific print adhesion sprays like 3DLAC or DimaFix, etc), if not the bed might be greasy or lacking the adhesion product;</li>
<li>You can configure the skirt height to use the skirt as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product);</li>
</ul>
<blockquote>
<p>Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Do note that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.</p>
<hr>
<p><em>Basically this has been answered (see <a href="/a/11303">this answer</a> and <a href="/a/11304">this answer</a>) in a different question (<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11300/random-lines-are-being-printed">"Random lines are being printed?"</a>), but it might be beneficial to answer this question rather than closing this for a dupe. This question is focussed on the skirt, the equidistant lines around the print object, while the other question focuses on the priming line.</em></p>
<hr>
|
2020-04-20T18:46:19.953 | |creality-ender-3|power-supply|diamond-hotend| | <p>As I want to print with multiple colors I plan to upgrade my Ender 3 with the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend#Electronics_setup" rel="nofollow noreferrer">diamond hotend</a>.</p>
<p>So far I found all information I need, except what power supply I need for my <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RUMBA board</a>.</p>
<p>Can I use the default Ender 3 power supply or do I need an additional power supply or wires?</p>
<p>Parts I am going to order:</p>
<ul>
<li>1x Lite6 Heatsink</li>
<li>3x Diamond Universal mount</li>
<li>1x 12 V 40 W 6 mm x 20 mm Cartridge Heater Reprap For 3D Printer</li>
<li>1x Thermistor 100K 1 % NTC Temperature Sensor Line for 3D Printer</li>
<li>1x Fan 50x50x15 mm 12 V 125 mA</li>
<li>1x Diamond Hotend Insulator</li>
<li>1x Nema17 stepper motor 48 mm 1.8° 42BYGHW804 1.2 A 5.5 kg•cm</li>
<li>3x MK8/9 Dual Extruder Feed Device Part For 3D Printer 1.75 mm Filament</li>
<li>3x Bowden tube 1 m with fitting 4/2 mm (for 1.75 mm filament)</li>
<li>1x RUMBA 3D printer controller board</li>
<li>6x StepStick DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver</li>
</ul>
| 13477 | Upgrade Ender 3 with Diamond Hotend | <p>The RUMBA boards run up to 36 V, so reusing the (24 V) power supply from your printer should be fine. As the 2 extra steppers do not take much extra power (note you are ordering only 1!), your supply should be sufficient. Note that a 12 V heater cartridge is not going to work on a 24 V board (you'll get a massive overshoot and probably over-temperature warnings and printer shutdowns).</p>
|
2020-04-23T03:33:33.140 | |print-quality|creality-ender-3| | <p>When my Ender 3 prints a top or bottom layer, it leaves a line on the layer.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ij6ei.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ij6ei.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SErLK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SErLK.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<ul>
<li>Slicer Cura</li>
<li>Linear Advance: 0.57</li>
<li>Retraction: 3 mm @ 35 mm/s</li>
<li>Max Speed: 100 mm/s</li>
<li>Ironing enabled</li>
<li>Minimum wall flow: 20 %</li>
<li>Temperatures: 205 °C hotend and 65 °C bed</li>
</ul>
<p>My belts are tight enough as I push them they spring back up. I bought a support block for my Z lead screw to help with z banding (I also removed it to see if it will fix the issue but it didn't). I tried 50 mm/s, No Infill, swapped out to brand new 0.6 mm nozzle (the picture has 0.4 mm), Minimum wall-flow to 0 % but no improvement. It has to lead me to think its a mechanical issue but I am not sure where to start. </p>
| 13495 | Surface artifacts when formation of object changes (Layer inconsistency) | <p>I have found the issue. My extruder gear was deformed after 4 months of continuous use which made the extruder have a difficult time when a rapid change in extrusion happened. I swapped it out to a new stainless steel one and it has been working well so far.</p>
<p>EDIT:</p>
<p>These inconsistencies are mainly caused by the pressure in the nozzle not changing fast enough. So to solve this you should look at the extruder setup as that is where the pressure is being controlled. Get any gunk out of there and make sure the path is clear and make sure nothing is grinding and you have a good grip on the filament.</p>
<p>To reduce the change in pressure you should play with printing speed, hotend temperature, linear advance if applicable and you may tune extruder jerk and acceleration although not necessary.</p>
|
2020-04-23T06:24:33.977 | |print-quality|troubleshooting|creality-ender-5| | <p>I'm new to 3D printing, I bought an Ender 5 Pro just recently. Trying to print with 1.75 mm PLA, but the results are very bad, unfortunately. When I got after bed leveling I got a decent result from the demo dog and started to print small things, where the quality was acceptable. Then I tried to switch to bigger items, but the printing failed half-way due to not enough adhesion. </p>
<p>There were other quality problems too with this print, and you can already see that in the walls there are holes:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/utBc7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/utBc7.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I did another round of bed leveling and Z alignment to make sure the adhesion is good and a test print came out quite fine in all corners and the center. The one layer rectangles and not perfect, in some places the lines separate, but they are mostly fine. But now I have a different problem: all the prints are very messy, less clear, they are not as strong as before and also there are big holes now in the walls.
The same statue base (as I had to stop after getting messy earlier) looks like this now:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KNJx5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KNJx5.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Another try failed after a few hours (like printing stopped and was printing nothing in the air), but also there is the holes/gaps problem even more visible:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ekTR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ekTR.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Finally as a test I printed an object with the same G-code as previously used and the result is much different. The object on the left is the new one. It is weak, you can feel by pressing that the walls are not solid, they bend. The rectangle "eyes" are also not clear:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZJAu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZJAu.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>There is a difference though, I changed the extruder's nozzle between, the new one was also in the Ender package, it is also 0.4 mm as the original should have been, I changed to try with a new one.</p>
<p>Because of the last test with the same gcode, different result, I think the problem might be in hardware adjustment as well, not only software. Anyone has an idea what I'm doing wrong?</p>
<p><strong>EDIT 1</strong>: after calibrating the extraction amount and reducing the print temperature from 200 C to 190 C, now I get the below result. The values used:</p>
<ul>
<li>Bed temperature: 65 C initial, 60 C for the rest</li>
<li>Print temperature: 200 C initial, 190 later</li>
<li>Print speed: 80 mm/s</li>
<li>Wall speed: 40 mm/s</li>
<li>Retraction: 10 mm</li>
<li>Retraction speed: 80 mm</li>
<li>Wall thickness: 0.8mm</li>
<li>Layer height: 0.2 mm</li>
<li>Initial layer: 0.2 mm</li>
<li>Line width: 0.4 mm</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bS73.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bS73.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><strong>EDIT 2</strong>: Based on the comments, some changes were made and here are the results.
XYZ cube, </p>
<ul>
<li>print speed reduced to 60 mm</li>
<li>layer height 0.12 mm</li>
<li>Z Seam Alignment is Sharpest Corner</li>
<li>Infill density 30 %</li>
<li>Retraction distance 8 mm</li>
<li>Retraction speed 40 mm</li>
</ul>
<p>It looks good, the layers are visible though, some ghosting right to X and Y.
The sizes are not correct though: X = 20.07 mm, Y = 20.03 mm, Z = 19.84 mm
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/maCpd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/maCpd.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Are X/Y acceptable? What should I do with Z, increase steps/mm ?</p>
<p>Finally here is the 3D benchy too, although looks mostly fine, there are some bumps in the walls and small strings in open areas. This was printed earlier and with different settings though:</p>
<ul>
<li>Layer Width 0.2 mm</li>
<li>Print speed 80 mm</li>
<li>Retraction 10 mm</li>
<li>Retraction speed 80 mm</li>
<li>Z Seam Alignment is set to Random</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Csmzr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Csmzr.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><strong>EDIT 3</strong> I tried now to print the PolyPearl, that has thin curving lines. The first try failed after 2 hours, a knob developed on the nozzle that ruined the print. This was printing with 190 C. I gave a new try and printed with 200 C, and amazingly it completed the job. See below the pictures, here are my settings for it (changes for Cura 4.6.0's default Super Quality):</p>
<ul>
<li>Layer height: 0.08 mm</li>
<li>Initial layer height: 0.12 mm</li>
<li>Wall thickness: 1.2 mm</li>
<li>Z Seam Alignment: Sharpest Corner</li>
<li>Print speed: 60 mm/s</li>
<li>Infill acceleration: 1000 <span class="math-container">$mm/s^2$</span></li>
<li>Print acceleration: 300 <span class="math-container">$mm/s^2$</span> (default is 500)</li>
<li>Print jerk: 8 mm/s (default is 10)</li>
<li>Retraction distance: 8 mm</li>
<li>Retraction speed: 40 mm/s</li>
</ul>
<p>The model sticks well to the glass plate even without glue or hair spray, maybe a little too well. I see some problems though, not sure how normal they are:</p>
<ul>
<li>outside area of first layer is not nice</li>
<li>there is some oozing, thing lines on the surface and between the columns</li>
<li>the top end of the tower is somewhat messy and there is a horizontal line attached to it (sure, can be removed easily)</li>
<li>the bottom is very smooth, I can see the glass' texture (the Creality glass top is textured) and the texture of the very first failed print, when I didn't take into account the extra height of the glass after leveling, and the print head hit it hard and the nozzle got completely damaged. Beginner's fault.</li>
</ul>
<p>Here are the images: <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfuMFFedL171eLeM7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZfuMFFedL171eLeM7</a></p>
<p>Are this problems normal/acceptable?</p>
| 13497 | Gaps/Holes in the 3D Print walls | <p>Let's see what kind of errors I see (accumulated from what I commented):</p>
<h1>Underextrusion</h1>
<p>The legs seem rather underextruded. This could be a clogged nozzle as much as too fast printing or too low a temperature as well as too little pressure (e.g. miscalibrated extruder). Try a cleaning or a fresh nozzle, other playing with the parameter can wait after you fixed the next big issue.</p>
<p>To fix the under extrusion if it persists after fixing Ringing, experiment with the following settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>Check the mechanical system. Make sure that the extruder
<ul>
<li>has no defect. I had seen a lot of under extrusion when my extruder lever broke. The gear turned but did no longer push the filament.</li>
<li>does press the filament well with the idler bearing into the hobbled gear.</li>
<li>is properly calibrated according to the physical parameters. Use the Extrusion multiplier to account for different materials.</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Temperature. If extrusion comes bad, increasing it in 5 °C steps can help.</li>
</ul>
<h1>Ringing/Ghosting</h1>
<p>The cube with the indentations shows it best: There is a massive ringing happening. This is an effect that happens when the printer changes directions fast - the printhead can't accelerate and decelerate with infinity, as it has momentum, and as a result oscillates around the new path a little, like a sinus ring. This creates a "ghost" of the preceding path changes on a flat face, which is why I asked to print a cube.</p>
<p>To fix Ghosting and Ringing, there are 2 software fixes:</p>
<ul>
<li>reduce print speed.
<ul>
<li>this comes at the cost of longer print times</li>
</ul></li>
<li>work out better maximum acceleration and jerk
<ul>
<li>Reducing the maximum acceleration some (down to between 500 mm/s² to 1000 mm/s²) can massively better the quality at little to no effect on total print time, and keep your print speed up.</li>
<li>Jerk is the derivate of acceleration; finding out the two values that might be best for your printer setup can be a lot of experimentation.</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p>There is also a hardware design way to reduce it in many designs by shaving off weight from moving parts or stiffening up the construction:</p>
<ul>
<li>Get a lighter printhead
<ul>
<li>remove unnecessary <em>addons</em></li>
<li>swap for a lighter printhead design</li>
<li>changing to a Bowden design</li>
<li>in CoreXY: use lighter rails</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Stiffen the construction
<ul>
<li>Adjust the mounting of the carriage in such a way that it is better constricted</li>
<li>change out bearings and bushings for ones with tighter tolerances</li>
<li>bracings can massively stiffen a portal and cube design</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<h1>Height inaccuracy</h1>
<p>This could stem from any of several sources. In descending order of likeness:</p>
<ul>
<li>the first layer is not a multiple of the actual layers (e.g. 0.12 instead of 0.2 mm) leading to a partial layer at the top being cut. in the example this would result in a <strong>fixed negative error</strong> about 0.08 mm.</li>
<li>a miscalibrated first layer. Depending on your leveling skills, this can account for a <strong>fixed error</strong> of up to 0.1 mm for a bad calibration to 0.025 mm for a really good calibration. This error can appear both positive and negative.</li>
<li>Z-Axis inconsistencies from a misaligned leadscrew, a sticky leadscrew, or insufficient Z-stepper voltage. Both would usually create a systematic error - as in printing a given <strong>percentage</strong> loss of height. Such inconsistencies can be fixed by solving the mentioned issue: check orthogonality first, then gently oil the screw with light machine oil (not WD40!), finally increase motor voltage slightly. Only if your results are massively out of whack, you should check if your steps/mm are set correctly. But I don't see the need in this case.</li>
</ul>
|
2020-04-23T13:50:10.240 | |creality-ender-3|adhesion|infill|warping| | <p>I just got into 3D printing with an Ender-3 Pro. The test dog printed great, some custom small/thin objects printed good, and now I tried my first big object.</p>
<p>Designed in Tinkercad (<a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1JZRKfOQHxr" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link to my (updated) design</a>), exported to .stl, sliced and printed using Cura 4.5.0 with the default 0.2 mm profile (3 layers wall thickness) and 100% infill (for strength), with the extruder at 200 °C and bed at 50 °C. Ambient temperature had been 25-ish °C.</p>
<p>The filament is a brand-new Spectrum Premium PLA (Arctic White). On its box it says it prints at 185-215 °C.</p>
<p>So I got this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z76pt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z76pt.jpg" alt="On the magnetic bed (front)" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oAAI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oAAI.jpg" alt="On the magnetic bed (back)" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjdhi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjdhi.jpg" alt="One leg - lower layer view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY4Li.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY4Li.jpg" alt="One leg - side view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lLI8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lLI8.jpg" alt="Other leg - side view" /></a></p>
<p>The top (thinner) sections look OK-ish (there are some visible lines, but meh), but the transition from the bottom sections (thick) to the top has terrible layer separation and warping problems. One side of the base is actually barely holding together when I'm holding it. There is also a smaller problem mid-way at that side of the base, but it's not catastrophic.</p>
<ol>
<li>Why did that happen? What did I do wrong? How can I print it again and get it nice and strong?</li>
</ol>
<p><s>2) I have a handheld "3D print pen". If I use it to fill the gaps manually, how strong will the part be? The part is meant to "hug" the iPad charging port, so that you can hold the iPad in the bed while charging, without pressing the cable on your body and damaging it.</s> nvm that</p>
<hr />
<p>Using wall thickness of 4, layer height 0.16 mm, 30% infill and 205 °C extruder, this is my (successful) result.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/518RF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/518RF.jpg" alt="Successful result on the magnetic bed" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3BDb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3BDb.jpg" alt="Successful result in action" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p>I also repaired that broken part. Did it for the aesthetics, but it feels quite strong.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t2Zb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t2Zb.jpg" alt="Repaired with 3D pen" /></a></p>
| 13499 | Ender-3 Pro - PLA mid-layer warping (layer separation) - salvageable? | <p>One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.</p>
<p>Consider that you could use twenty to thirty percent infill to get the strength you require for this application, saving filament and time for the print. You've not noted how many wall layers used, but for increased strength, four to five would make for a very strong model.</p>
|
2020-04-23T16:14:40.817 | |extruder|troubleshooting|renkforce-rf1000| | <p>I've got a Renkforce RF1000 which should be a good 3D printer. I got it second-hand for my birthday one year ago. I've got no way of contacting the old owner.</p>
<p>I spend a good amount of hours fine-tuning the slicer settings last year but at best got mediocre prints. Between September and a week ago I lived somewhere else and didn't touch my printer.</p>
<p>Now here's what I don't know:</p>
<ul>
<li>I don't know what parts are replaced</li>
<li>I don't know what my nozzle size is</li>
<li>I don't know if the limit switches are calibrated correctly
<ul>
<li>Though I think they are. This doesn't seem to be a problem. I did re-calibrate the Z-axis</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Here are some important details:</p>
<ul>
<li>I use 3 mm Renkforce PLA filament which I print at 190 °C on a bed heated at 60 °C. The PLA is over one year old now.</li>
<li>There's a fan on the motor on top that isn't connected to anything.</li>
</ul>
<p>Here are some of the problems I've got:</p>
<ul>
<li>I've had multiple prints failing due to the extruder not working properly. The motor keeps on spinning but the "feed knurl" remains stationary</li>
<li>I can't seem to get the right extraction settings</li>
<li>I can't seem to get my prints to consistently stick. It tends to work when I heat the bed to 60 °C and use glue and get lucky.</li>
</ul>
<p>Feel free to give any thoughts you've got. These are the most important questions I've got:</p>
<ol>
<li>Should I replace the nozzle with <a href="https://www.conrad.com/p/renkforce-nozzle-v2-03-mm-suitable-for-3d-printer-renkforce-rf1000-renkforce-rf2000-1296238?searchTerm=renkforce%20nozzle&searchType=suggest&searchSuggest=product" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a> so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?</li>
<li>Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?</li>
<li>How do I fix the extruder?</li>
</ol>
<ul>
<li>I tried getting the "feed knurl" off but can't seem to do this easily. I've got some super glue I could try to put in there but something's telling me this might be a very bad idea...</li>
</ul>
<ol start="4">
<li>Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.</li>
<li>How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?</li>
</ol>
<p>For now, these are all hardware problems. I can post my Slic3r settings too but I believe the hardware should be fixed before going into slicer settings.</p>
<p>Here are some pictures showing the problems:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg" alt="Top image one" /></a></p>
<p>This is the extruder. The feeding mechanism can be seen in front. It shows the "feed knurl" of which the inside spins while the outside remains stationary (question 3). Next to it are 4 screws which determine how tight the filament is held against the extruder (question 5). On the back it shows a black fan, this got placed by the previous owner but isn't connected (question 4).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cu0UM.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cu0UM.jpg" alt="Image unconnected fan with unscrewed extruder" /></a></p>
<p>This image shows the unconnected fan (question 4) to the right. Behind it is the motor that's connected to the extruder. The motor works but the extruder doesn't spin with it. The extruder has a little black hole on top.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyWj2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyWj2.jpg" alt="Front view extruder" /></a></p>
<p>This shows the extruder from the front. The inner layer spins, the outer layer doesn't (question 3)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZd1o.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZd1o.jpg" alt="Failed print example" /></a></p>
<p>These are some of the prints when the extruder was still working.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdToY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdToY.jpg" alt="Nozzle and print bed" /></a></p>
<p>Nozzle and print bed (question 1)</p>
| 13503 | Can you help me improve my Renkforce RF1000 print quality? | <blockquote>
<p>Should I replace the nozzle with this one so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>It appears the default nozzle size is 0.3 mm. The linked nozzle is a direct replacement.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>How do I fix the extruder?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The "feed knurl", usually called the extruder gear is attached to the stepper shaft using a fine grub screw ("threaded pin" is a bad choice of words...). The black hole you mention is the hole of the screw (it should be in there, usually an allen key or flat screwdriver should be used). Position it so that the screw is tightened against the flat spot on the stepper shaft.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>If the PLA has been open for a year and not stored properly it could have taken up moisture, I would buy a new spool (3.0 mm) of filament, not 1.75 mm.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The fan doesn't look as if this is a default fan, this fan is mounted onto cooling fins probably put there by the previous owner to cool the extruder stepper. Maybe the printer has been enclosed and used to print ABS at elevated temperatures. For Printing PLA cooling the extruder stepper would not be necessary as it doesn't require an elevated print temperature.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The 4 screws need to be tight enough for the extruder gear to leave indentations on the filament, but not too deep.</p>
|
2020-04-23T21:23:04.590 | |print-quality|extrusion|layer-height|qidi-tech-x-plus| | <p>I'm trying to diagnose a print issue that <em>looks</em> like a missed layer (sorry, first-time printer here)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4bIZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4bIZ.jpg" alt="side-view"></a>
and
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOlZL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOlZL.jpg" alt="top-view"></a></p>
<p>Specs:</p>
<ul>
<li>Printer: QIDI Tech X-Plus (direct drive).</li>
<li>Material: PLA.</li>
<li>Extruder temp: 200 °C.</li>
<li>Bed temp: 60 °C (70 °C first layer).</li>
<li>Print speed: 60 mm/s (actually 48 mm/s on non-infill because of <code>min_layer_time</code>).</li>
<li>Retraction distance: 2 mm.</li>
</ul>
<p>Started from a new printer: I was getting imperfect prints (lesser version of this, functional part) and contacted QIDI support. They eventually replied that my bed was too low but I had since lowered the bed on a misdiagnosis. They supplied a slightly modified G-code but that also failed in a similar way.</p>
<p>Since then, I've been raising the bed bit by bit to try to fix this issue. I don't care about the little whiskers much, but the solid "connecting lines" are a problem.</p>
<p>Questions:</p>
<ol>
<li>Is this actually a bed-leveling/height issue?</li>
<li>What is this defect called (whatever the cause)? I've been googling but can't find something that looks like this.</li>
<li>Is there a better way of fixing bed height issues than just printing->tweaking bed height->printing?</li>
</ol>
<p>I'd appreciate any help diagnosing this issue - even if it's just the name of this problem. I have no experience disassembling/looking at hardware but I could always give it a shot.</p>
<h2>Update</h2>
<p>As per comments I took a look at <code>coasting</code> and ran some tests. I first re-leveled the bed manually (I'll call that height=0). I don't want to add tons of pictures so I'll show the baseline, and "bad" refers to similar failure as above.</p>
<pre><code>+--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------+
| | Combing | Coasting | Retraction distance | Extruder temp | Bed height | Results |
|--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------|
| Test_1 | infill only. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 200 C. | 0. | Baseline. |
| Test_2 | infill only. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 200 C. | +0.05 mm. | ~ Baseline. |
| Test_3 | off. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 200 C. | 0. | Bad. |
| Test_4 | infill only. | off. | 1.5 mm. | 200 C. | 0. | Bad. |
| Test_5 | infill only. | off. | 2.0 mm. | 190 C. | 0. | TBD |
+--------+--------------+------------+-----------------------+-----------------+--------------+-------------+
</code></pre>
<p>(+/- 0.05 mm height achieved with clicks of "fast leveling")</p>
<p>Test 1 external view:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mi53A.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mi53A.jpg" alt="test_1_out"></a></p>
<p>Test 1 internal view:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/amP77.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/amP77.jpg" alt="test_1_in"></a></p>
<h2>Update</h2>
<p>I think I've confirmed an <strong>under-extrusion</strong> problem. Here is a top layer printing I stopped partway through.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCgJH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCgJH.jpg" alt="test_5_top_layer"></a></p>
<p>This looks exactly like <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/gaps-in-top-layers/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Simplify3D's Guide</a>. So I manually pushed through, removed, and re-inserted the filament - and cleaned the nozzle with a brush.</p>
<p>I then ran a new print and noticed a clicking sound in the extruder (I don't know if it's new or if I simply noticed because I was focused on under-extrusion problems) - the print failed in the same "dragging" way as above, but the top layers were slightly better.</p>
<p>I'm now going through the list of possible causes of clicking extruder + under-extrusion.</p>
| 13505 | Partially missed / dragged layers | <p>I managed to confirm the dragged layers were mostly due to <strong>under-extrusion</strong>.</p>
<p>I had a <code>faulty extruder</code> (clicking sound) and once I swapped it out it was greatly improved.</p>
<p>It's worth noting I also had a slight <code>z-wobble</code> issue so that could have played a role.</p>
<p>Hopefully this can help somebody out as I hadn't seen this kind of symptom in any of the print quality guides.</p>
|
2020-04-24T18:35:26.360 | |marlin|stepper-driver| | <p>I'm building a device that requires five 12 V valves to be programmatically controlled as a switch. So far, I have been able to get outputs from the heated bed, extruder, and fan to be controllable through Marlin, by defining "SENSITIVE_PINS" to be an empty array. I can now use <code>M42</code> to switch these pins on and off, allowing for programmatic control of 3 of the 5 valves. </p>
<p>For the other two valves, I'd like to control these directly from the 3D printer board somehow. I noticed the A4988 driver will rapidly flick a 12 V output on and off according to the microstep setting (<a href="https://lastminuteengineers.com/a4988-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://lastminuteengineers.com/a4988-stepper-motor-driver-arduino-tutorial/</a>). But this type of flicking is not really good for controlling a valve, because I want the valve to remain open until I say "stop". </p>
<p>What I would like is to be able to use the <code>M42</code> to command to administer a 12 V output on or off from the motor section of the usual boards. The A4988 driver takes in inputs like <code>Enable</code>, <code>Step</code>, and <code>Dir</code> from Arduino pins. Is there any way I can "hack" the A4988 driver to provide a constant voltage, similar to a relay switch? Alternatively, can I remove the driver and do something with the female pins that are normally used to connect to the A4988 driver?</p>
<p>In researching this I have noticed that when removing the driver, you expose some more 12 V female and GND pins on your board, which can provide an easy connection to a third-party relay or h-bridge. But ideally, I would be able to do this without adding any new hardware to the board.</p>
<p>This question is on-topic because it has to do with 3D printer boards that are currently on the market and because it is ultimately a device that is used to 3D print something. </p>
| 13514 | Getting a programatically-controlled, constant 12 V from one of the motor outputs | <p>It is easy. Leave the driver in. Connect to the first two wires usually used by the motor output. I.e. this is usually where the nema 17 motor goes. The first two wires are your output to the valve.</p>
<p>Use M42 to control the ENABLE pin. Bringing the pin high creates a 0V output. Bringing the pin low creates a 12V output.</p>
|
2020-04-24T22:12:46.453 | |marlin|endstop|axis| | <p>I’m building my new 3D printer and I have a doubt. I’m using limit switches on the 3 axes, but only the MIN switches. I also have another three switches which I want to use as MAX switches. How can I do that? I mean, if I insert a specific measure of the plate in Marlin and than the extruded stops before of the limit of the plate due to the MAX endstop what will happen? What should I do, upgrade to MIN and MAX endstops or only keep the MIN ones?</p>
| 13516 | How do the MAX endstops work? | <p>You should see MAX endstops similarly as MIN endstops, or as an additional option to protect the printer:</p>
<ol>
<li>Similarly seen as MIN endstops, you would define in the firmware that you are using them to set a reference point at maximum values, your offsets and bed dimensions would be calculated from the MAX positions;</li>
<li>You can configure the MIN endstops and have additional MAX endstops set beyond the bed size dimensions. If the printer would encounter a layer shift causing the nozzle to go beyond the printer (MAX) boundaries, the printer shuts down when the MAX endstop is triggered.</li>
</ol>
|
2020-04-25T02:07:41.443 | |marlin|firmware|bigtreetech| | <p>I recently purchased a BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 and need to adjust some of the settings in configuration h to accommodate for my custom built 3d printer. In the past I've used the RAMPS 1.4 board and adjusted the firmware in the arduino IDE. What is the best way/recommended way to do this for the mini E3 V1.2.</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
| 13519 | How to access BIGTREETECH firmware | <p>The previous answer is good, but here's one specific for Bigtreetech. </p>
<ol>
<li>Install platform.io. I use the command-line interface (CLI)</li>
<li>Modify your marlin files. You can clone existiing firmware for your board from the BigtreeTech Github for your board. </li>
<li>Remove microUSB card from your Bigtree tech board</li>
<li>Plug microUSB card into microUSB reader, and the microusb reader into the computer. You should be able to read your microUSB card</li>
<li>Enter the command in the root directory of your Marlin files: <code>platformio run -e STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB</code>. At least, this is the one for my board. You should have to run this in one folder before the <code>Marlin</code> folder. </li>
<li>It creates a file called <code>firmware.bin</code> in the directory <code>.pio/build/STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB/firmware.bin</code>. Copy it to your microUSB card, replacing and deleting any existing <code>.bin</code>. You can use the name <code>firmware.bin</code>.</li>
<li>Remove microSD card from computer and plug into board.</li>
</ol>
<p>In your Marlin <code>Configuration.h</code> file, there should be a variable called something like <code>MACHINE_NAME</code>. If you make that name custom, then it will appear in the Octoprint terminal when connecting to your board, letting you know that you have updated the firmware. </p>
|
2020-04-25T18:30:09.507 | |resin| | <p>I'm new to printing resin miniatures for Dungeons & Dragons and most of my prints are successful, i.e. one or more miniatures print as expected.</p>
<p>However when I have multiple minis on the build plate the one in the middle works okay but the ones on the edges don't adhere to the build plate.</p>
<p>Should I limit myself to one or two minis in the center of the build plate? Or should it work and I just need to get my settings correct?</p>
<p>Note I'm using a Beam 3D Prism printer.</p>
| 13523 | Multiple objects on build plate | <p>Check the plate and be sure that it is level. Also, you need to check that your model is level.</p>
<p>The problem will be in the settings if everything is level.</p>
|
2020-04-26T05:58:11.507 | |g-code|desktop-printer|scripts| | <p>I was just about to start using my 3D printers heated bed to warm a chemical reaction in a container and was thinking it would be great to be able to get the bed stepping back and forth to stir the pot.
Can anyone already up to speed in programming G-code walk me through a quick and dirty way to get the X-axis on my old Printrbot metal doing a couple of micro-steps either way in an endless loop? Or suggest some software out there that could achieve the same effect? </p>
| 13526 | How to make a printer bed vibrate using g-code (heated chemical stirrer)? | <p>Stefan from CNC kitchen already did it: <a href="https://github.com/CNCKitchen/3D-Printer-Vibration" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/CNCKitchen/3D-Printer-Vibration</a></p>
|
2020-04-26T09:34:19.323 | |marlin|g-code|bltouch| | <p>I previously set up my Ender 3 with a precompiled binary of Marlin that already had the correct X and Y offsets for the attached BLTouch. Now I'm compiling my own, and rather than measure for myself I'd like to just use the same numbers.</p>
<p>When I send <code>M851</code> through the terminal, it gives me the current value for the probe's Z offset from the extruder. I know I can also use <code>M851</code> to <em>set</em> the X and Y offset, but there doesn't seem to be a way to <em>read</em> the current values.</p>
<p>Is there any way to query the printer for the current values of <code>X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER</code> and <code>Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER</code>? Or, ideally, for any other arbitrary variable?</p>
| 13530 | How can I determine the current value of a #defined variable? | <p>"#define" is a feature of the compiler preprocessor and isn't a feature of Marlin. So there is no general way to recover the value of a "#define variable" (which isn't actually a variable at all) unless Marlin explicitly provides the option.</p>
<p>In the current version of Marlin M851 will report the X and Y offsets. It appears you have an older version which does not do this. In older versions there appears to be no option to recover the value.</p>
|
2020-04-28T05:34:59.320 | |creality-ender-3|heated-bed|bed-leveling|adhesion| | <p>I have and Ender 3 Pro, which I'm enjoying except for an intractable problem. No matter how carefully I level the nozzle and tighten the X belt, using this <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-bed-leveling-all-you-need-to-know/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">great guide</a>, the prints seem to be tilting to the right, particularly if they're tall. I realize this is a common problem, but I'm at a loss for what it's called and where the problem is most likely to be.</p>
<p>The first sign of trouble in paradise is that, after two layers of a simple rectangular base for a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bean_machine" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Galton Board</a> I'm trying to build that uses sand, the right side is clearly thinner than the left:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6iorm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P6iorm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>This is with a translucent Overture PETG filament, 1.75 mm.</p>
<p>For the board itself, which is about 15 cm tall and looks MUCH better if printed vertically, I notice after about 3-4 cm that the bottom of the left side is becoming detached from the bed:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sKCyD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sKCyD.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>This gets progressively worse as the print goes on:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZKMsm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZKMsm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>The entire Galton Box takes six hours to print using the default PETG settings in Cura for a default level of detail, so I'd really prefer to find a way to diagnose the problem sooner. I know this is not a new problem, but I'd be grateful for any guidance on what it's called or links to how to fix it -- and how to determine if it's a hardware problem or not. </p>
<p>Also, out of curiosity: If the machine isn't PERFECTLY level on the table -- my work desk appears to slant by about 2° -- could that be implicated?</p>
| 13546 | Diagnosing why the left side of a print detaches from the board | <p>The uneven level is explained by the unfortunate choice of the printer manufacturer to <strong>not have</strong> a second Z lead screw. It is pretty difficult to level these printers, it is all a combination of the correct X belt tension and roller tension. The uneven level in the first picture is what is causing your print to detach, As can be seen you've got a lot of "squish" on the right side, but less adhesion (seen by the less transparent color) on the left, therefore it would fail on the left. </p>
<p>You need to:</p>
<ul>
<li>level better, </li>
<li>fix the skew XZ gantry or </li>
<li>use an <a href="/a/11183">adhesive</a> (and/or a <code>brim</code>).</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p>Please note that the <a href="/a/7892">level of the table top</a> has <strong>nothing</strong> to do with the leveling of the printer, nor with the leaning of your prints. You're just having adhesion problems as a result of an uneven bed/gantry.</p>
|
2020-04-28T19:37:49.080 | |wiring|endstop|skr-mini-e3|bigtreetech| | <p>I recently purchased a BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 controller for my custom built 3D printer (as opposed to an pre-purchased ender 3). In doing so, I ran into the problem that the endstops I have been using have three wires: Power, Ground, and signal. The mini e3 V1.2 that I purchased uses endstop connections that only have two pins. This can be seen in the schematic below on the bottom right of the controller. I don't know where to buy endstops that only have two pins and have not been able to find anything online. If anybody knows where these can be bought or how the 3 pinned endstops are supposed to be wired up it would be much appreciated.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2RXe.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2RXe.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
| 13548 | BigTreeTech mini e3 V1.2 endstop installation | <p>You do not need to connect the red (+) wire of the endstops. The controller board uses a technique to ensure the signal is 3.3 V or ground, see the top left schematics of <a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2/BTT%20SKR%20mini%20E3%20V1.2sch.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this link</a> (will insert an image later!). Specifics about this technology is found <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pull-up_resistor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> and is explained as using a pull up resistor.</p>
<p>What happens is that the signal is always reported as triggered, unless the endstop connects the signal wire to ground.</p>
<p><a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V1.2PIN.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This link</a> shows that only ground and signal are required (will insert an image later!).</p>
|
2020-04-29T22:19:08.280 | |creality-ender-3|stepper-driver|stepper| | <p>This is the same machine involved in this question: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13403/ender-3-pro-extruder-stepper-skipping-with-a-chunk-sound">ender-3-pro-extruder-stepper-skipping-with-a-chunk-sound</a>.</p>
<p>After reassembling the extruder, I discovered that the extruder stepper did not move, using prepare->move-axis. All three axis steppers did move normally.</p>
<p>The first thing is did to test was to exchange the wires to the extruder and X-axis steppers. After this the extruder stepper moved when I moved the X-axis but the X-axis did not move when I moved the extruder. Therefore, I concluded that the stepper is working.</p>
<p>I then opened up the main board chassis and exchanged the X-axis and extruder cables there (so the cables are exchanged on both ends). This restored operation to the X-axes (operated as such) and the extruder did not function again (operated as such).</p>
<p>From this, I concluded that the cables are also fine and I had somehow blown the extruder driver on the board.</p>
<p>I went on Amazon and ordered a "silent" Ender 3 Pro motherboard, rev 1.1.5 to replace my current rev 1.1.4 board. I just received the new board and, as far as I can tell, it looks like an authentic Creality product. The only visible differences between the old and new boards are the silkscreened version and the color of the PCB itself. Both are labelled "Ender 3 Pro" on the back.</p>
<p>I carefully removed the old board, marking where all cables connect and swapped in the new board. Much to my distress, everything acted exactly the same. The extruder stepper did not turn. Swapping the cables at the steppers restored functionality to the extruder (controlled as X-axis) and the X-axis did not move (controlled as extruder). Also swapping the cables at the motherboard restored the X-axis stepper (controlled as such) but the extruder stepper would not move (controlled as extruder).</p>
<p>I should add for Completeness that my printer was sold by Sain Smart (Creality OEM, I believe) and was labelled as such, both on the metal and on the LCD start screen. However, the motherboard was a Creality3D board, labelled as "Ender 3 Pro" and I believe the only actual difference is the text inside the firmware. With the new board in, the LCD identifies itself as "Creality Ender 3 Pro".</p>
<p>At this point, the only conclusion I can come to is that the new board has failed in the same way, which doesn't make any sense.</p>
<p><strong>I need a sanity check. Does anyone see any flaw in my logic?</strong></p>
<p>I should add that there is an oddity on the new board. The fan on front of the hot end seem to run at full speed and the hot end side fan and chassis fan run briefly at power up an then stop. Using control->temperature->fan-speed seems to have no effect on any of the fans. I never observed the chassis fan with the old board so I cannot say this is different but I did previously have control of the hot end fan.</p>
| 13557 | Need sanity check debugging non-functional extruder | <p>The extruder motor will not turn unless the hotend is at a certain minimum temperature. This is a safety feature to prevent the extruder from grinding through the filament with a cold hotend. You can use the <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M302.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M302 command</a> to control this behavior.</p>
|
2020-04-30T06:37:04.533 | |ultimaker-cura|3d-models|3d-design|fdm|support-structures| | <p>I have been working hard the last year on the model below. I am new to everything 3D that is modeling and especially 3D printing. I have however successfully concluded quite a good number of 3D prints which I created in blender with my Creality Ender 3 Pro so I have a bit of experience.</p>
<p>All this new experience for me started with the desire to do this project I have been working on for all this year. A complex 3D model of a knight's tomb which I would like to print.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ5Lx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ5Lx.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>As you can see Cura is clearly indicating that there is a need for supports in these red areas. The model will be printed in a 15 cm size. I have also managed to resize the model from a 22 million face mesh full of holes to a 900k manifold model.</p>
<p>However, when I slice it I get this.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5o8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5o8.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>As you can see supports are only generated for the outer column part. None are generated for the arches which are totally absent when the model is sliced.</p>
<p>I have tried to alter the model's orientation but with no result. I will try to separate this mesh in parts but it would mean restarting all from scratch since I found no good software to slice it precisely.</p>
<p>I am quite sure that the main problem lies in the fact the Ender 3 pro is an FDM printer an that the vertical lines of the arches are too thin. Since I tried to upload my model on 3D printing services to see if it could be printed in other materials and could be printed in finely detailed resin. </p>
<p>I would like at least to know if I am right in my problem spotting or if there could be any solution to the present problem so that not to go wrong if I will redesign this part.</p>
| 13559 | My 3D model is printing with missing parts when sliced in Ultimaker Cura | <p>Why there is no support on the top is, that the top of the model, over the gothic arch, has not enough thickness to have any layer laid down there. Because it is too thin, it gets omitted. However, since the area that needs support is only very very small, this area technically doesn't need support and could be printed with bridging alone. Yet, you need to add at least 1 layer thickness to the height of the model by extruding the top surface in blender to make this area printable.</p>
<p>Another way is to knock down the layer height.</p>
|
2020-05-01T11:08:31.700 | |marlin|ezabl| | <p>I just changed the motherboard of my CR-10 mini printer to an SKR 1.4 and installed Marlin 2.0.x on it. Everything seems to work except for the automatic bed leveling. I’m using an EZABL probe.</p>
<p>The probe is mounted to the left and slightly in front of the nozzle. Therefore I have set the probe-nozzle offset in Marlin as:</p>
<pre><code>#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -45, -12, 0 }
</code></pre>
<p>When I run automatic bed leveling with G29 the nozzle moves to a position where the sensor is outside of the bed (but the nozzle is inside the bed). And then it crashes down into the bed with the nozzle because the Z endstop is never triggered.</p>
<p>To debug I used the DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE in Marlin and ran G29 from Pronterface. This is what I got:</p>
<pre><code>SENDING:G29
current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 : >>> G29
Machine Type: Cartesian
Probe: FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
Probe Offset X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.00 (Right-Back & Same Z as Nozzle)
Auto Bed Leveling: BILINEAR (disabled)
current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 : Probe::set_deployed
deploy: 1
Probe::move_z(5.00)
>>> do_blocking_move_to X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
reset_bed_level
>>> Probe::probe_at_point(30.00, 30.00, raise, 0, probe_relative)
current_position= X140.00 Y90.00 Z5.00 :
>>> do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : Probe::set_deployed
deploy: 1
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : >>> Probe::run_z_probe
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z5.00 : >>> Probe::probe_down_to_z
>>> do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
echo:busy: processing
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : sync_plan_position
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : <<< Probe::probe_down_to_z
FAST Probe fail!
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : <<< run_z_probe
current_position= X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00 : Probe::set_deployed
deploy: 0
>>> do_blocking_move_to X20.00 Y20.00 Z-3.00
<<< do_blocking_move_to
Error:Probing Failed
[ERROR] Error:Probing Failed
</code></pre>
<p>What I don’t understand is why it says:</p>
<pre><code>Probe Offset X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.00 (Right-Back & Same Z as Nozzle)
</code></pre>
<p>Because that is not at all the NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET I have defined. Is there another setting related to the nozzle/probe offset besides NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET that I have missed? Or why does Marlin get the idea that my probe is to the right and back of the probe when in reality its to the front and left?</p>
| 13566 | Automatic bed leveling probes outside of bed despite NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET | <p>The problem is that, although you have set the offsets correctly, the boundary limits for the probe to "probe the area" have not been adjusted. It is my belief that this is a flaw in ABL of Marlin 2.0.x. If the user has set the probe offsets, the firmware already knows that the probe area is limited!</p>
<p><a href="/a/8154">This answer</a> on question "<a href="/q/8153">How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?</a>" describes in detail what the boundaries of the probe are for Marlin firmware 1.1.x <strong>and</strong> 2.0.x.</p>
<p>Basically, you need to set the boundaries of the probe using some extra definitions in your Configuration_adv.h file:</p>
<pre>
constexpr int nozzle_to_probe_offset[] = NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET;
#define PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[0]
#define PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[1]
</pre>
<p>When including the <code>MIN_PROBE_EDGE</code> this means that the area is defined as:</p>
<pre>
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE - PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE - PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER)
</pre>
<p><em>(Since the offsets are negative in your probe setup, we need to subtract the values in order to add up the absolute value to the edge...)</em></p>
|
2020-05-04T04:39:21.517 | |creality-ender-3|glass-bed| | <p>I have an Ender 3, I got a new glass bed, the bed comes with glue on the back.</p>
<p>Should I stick the glass bed to the aluminium base? or just use it with the clips?
I saw other people just use the clips, but my glass seems to have a sticky back...</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iq7WD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iq7WD.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
| 13585 | New glass bed, should I glue it? | <p>Use Clips on either the left or the right. The aluminum might not be flat. Using clips or the adhesive will cause the glass to warp, defeating the point of using the glass.</p>
|
2020-05-05T10:00:47.137 | |extruder|renkforce-rf1000| | <p>I've got a secondhand Renkforce RF1000 which I can't seem to get working properly. Initially, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13503/hardware-issues-id-appreciate-your-thoughts-on">I asked about hardware issues that required fixing</a>. After fixing those I still <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13513/inconsistent-printing-results-using-same-settings-but-different-calibration-mode">got some inconsistent printing results</a>. These problems got worse with a new nozzle and new filament. I've now narrowed it down to one problem: bad feeding</p>
<p>To summary:</p>
<ul>
<li>I've got a secondhand Renkforce RF1000</li>
<li>I print using 2.85 mm PLA </li>
<li>I've got a new 0.3 mm nozzle</li>
<li>I've got new springs for holding the filament against the extruder</li>
</ul>
<p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg" alt="feeding mechanism">
<em>The feeding mechanism</em></p>
<p>The problem seems to be that the pressure for extruding filament through the nozzle is too high. This causes the grub screw to keep spinning without extruding filament. So in the picture, the left screw will spin and the right one will remain stationary. </p>
<p>This isn't consistent, it might work for a few millimetres and then stop working for a bit. It can cause the screw to grind into the filament creating a hole that cuts the filament in two. </p>
<p>Here's what I've done to try and fix it:</p>
<ul>
<li>Cleaned the nozzle with new 0.25 mm needles</li>
<li>Cleaned the nozzle with acetone against ABS that was stuck</li>
<li>Did a few cold pulls to confirm there's no filament stuck in the heater.
<ul>
<li>This wasn't the case and when removing the nozzle I could easily push or pull filament through.</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Tightened and loosened the screws holding the filament against the grub screw
<ul>
<li>Too tight causes clicking or more grinding. Too loose causes the filament to just not get caught at all</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p>I'm out of ideas of how to fix this. Any help you can give is greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>EDIT: here are some video's extruding 50 mm of filament at 2 mm/s and 10 mm/s</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Knx5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Knx5.png" alt="Controls"></a>
Controls</p>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/9sBjkZ7.mp4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">10 mm/s</a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/9sBjkZ7.mp4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2 mm/s</a>
(both links to imgur, didn't manage to get the video inline)</p>
<p>EDIT 2: </p>
<p>I replaced the driving gear and replaced the new nozzle with an old one. I'm not sure about the size of the old one but I assume it is 0.5 mm. I calibrated the extrusion and tested at 1 mm filament per second, I now get the exact results. However, when printing two 20mm calibration cubes I get quite bad results. The first cube (left) is printed at a 1.0 extrusion multiplier and the second one (right) is printed with a 0.95 extrusion multiplier. Any idea what these quality problems are caused by? </p>
<p>[<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0lMb.jpg" alt="Progress of first cube">
[<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cH22X.jpg" alt="New calibration cubes">
[<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cqksz.png" alt="Speed settings">
[<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mIHR5.png" alt="Print settings"></p>
| 13603 | How to fix bad extrusion that's likely caused by high pressure in the nozzle | <p>I think you are pushing filament too fast.</p>
<p>Let's go back to the basics: my hotend (old Ubis, ceramic) and extruder can push PLA at 230°C at max 80 mm/s * 0.5 mm line width * 0.2 mm layer height = 8 mm<sup>3</sup>/s.</p>
<p>At this speed it doesn't extrude very well, there is too much back pressure (see also <div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0xRtypDjNvI?start=6"></iframe>
</div></div>). That extrusion speed means (I have 3 mm filament) 1.13 mm/s of filament speed (8 mm<sup>3</sup> / 1.5<sup>2</sup> / pi).</p>
<p>You have 0.3 mm nozzle and you print colder, both of which cause more resistance to the flow. If 8 mm<sup>3</sup>/s is my absolute max, yours should be about 8 * 9/16 (ratio of the nozzle surfaces) = 4.5 mm<sup>3</sup>/s (really the max).</p>
<p>Considering the different print temperature, I would start limit to 3.5 mm<sup>3</sup>/s, which is 0.55 mm/s extrusion speed.</p>
<p>If you print 0.15 mm layers with line width of 0.35 mm, your absolute max printing speed should be 3.5 mm<sup>3</sup> / 0.15 /0.35 = 65 mm/s (which is better not to reach, 60 is fine).</p>
<p>Try doing the following tests: after cleaning the driving gear, extrude 50 mm filament at 0.3 mm/s and measure how much filament has been extruded. Then repeat 50 mm with 0.5 mm/s, and measure how much filament has been extruded. Try again at 0.75 mm/s. Obviously don't touch E steps and extrusion multiplier. I'm quite sure that at 0.75 mm/s you will notice a measurably shorter length of filament extruded. At 1 mm/s you will see grinding (but not as much as now).</p>
<p>If you want, try at regular intervals 0.2, 0.3 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7 mm/s and plot a graph of the actually extruded filament length. It will look like the one in the video (where he extruded a lot more and weighed the filament, which is time consuming and more expensive).</p>
<p>And then switch to 0.4 mm nozzle if it's too slow for your needs.</p>
<p><strong>Additional information</strong></p>
<p>You use 2.85 mm filament with a direct drive, no gears. Judging from your video the radius if the driving gear (teeth) is about 4 mm, meaning 4*2*pi=25.1 mm circumference. The circumference is controlled with 200 steps * 16 microsteps, as result each microstep controls 4*2*pi/200/16 mm filament length, which is 0.05 mm<sup>3</sup> and what you extrude along a 0.95 mm length (at 0.15 mm layer height and 0.35 mm line width). Basically your extruder has no control for moves shorter than 0.95 mm, but in fact it's even 4x worse, since you never get a single microstep precision (4 microsteps of tolerance is more reasonable).</p>
<p>You should probably use a much bigger nozzle, or 1.75 mm filament, or a geared extruder, or prints will never be accurate and you will have problems all the time, which you cannot physically solve.</p>
|
2020-05-09T20:18:29.180 | |nozzle|creality-ender-5| | <p>I've had the Ender 5 Pro, as is, for 3 months.</p>
<p>After I tried a cheap PLA filament (maybe too cheap), it clogged the nozzle. I cleaned it, but any other filament I have would have similar problems from then on. After some days doing test prints, it clogged again. This time, I heated it up to 240 ºC, I unscrew the nozzle, cleaned it up, chopped the Capricorn tube (it had clear symptoms of a previous tube not reaching the bottom of the hotend and leaking material around it), perfectly aligned, cleaned the heating block with a brass brush, started screwing the nozzle… and it never reaches the end. It even jiggles a little bit (by "jiggles", I mean that when the hotend is hot, you can push the nozzle back and forth, and it does move... like it was a joint, and not a threaded bolt), like it was too small for the block. I try screwing a new nozzle. Same happens.</p>
<p>To me it looks like the heating block thread broke, but I can't be sure. I tried a thicker nozzle (0.8 mm, but same thread in the end) and it worked. I could feed filament and it wouldn't look like clogged (at least for 15 cm of feeding filament, when in previous cases it was almost instantaneous).</p>
<p>Time to get a new heating block? Any recommendation?</p>
<p>Would another kind of heating block be better?</p>
<p>Edit: Here's a picture of the bottom of the heating block. Now it's clear there's a metal chip glued with material, and almost (if any) no thread at all.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt8Cb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt8Cb.jpg" alt="broken heating material"></a></p>
<p>Another question. Could it have been that cheap material that caused the clogging, or was it just a lack of proper maintenance?</p>
| 13632 | Nozzle jiggles when screwing into heating block | <p>You need to order a new heating block (just a few bucks/euros, so order 2, and spare nozzles, you don't want to install the old nozzles), you completely worn out the threads, this is beyond repair. It looks as if you used too much force to secure the nozzle into place.</p>
<p>This is how it is supposed to look:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoSyd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoSyd.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>You can find these cheaply at those typical Chinese vending platforms or online marketplaces. Just search for and Ender / CR-10 heater block.</p>
<p>Typical dimensions are found below:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Ny0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Ny0.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
2020-05-10T12:08:36.423 | |ultimaker-cura|delta|flsun-qq| | <p>When I try to print something that is not the test model already on the SD, which means when I try to slice something in Cura 4 and than I start the print, the nozzle stops at Z=15 mm and only the extruder motor goes foward and backward. I tried to modify the G-code but I didn't solve the problem. I need help because it's my first delta 3D printer and I don't know what to do.</p>
| 13637 | FLSUN QQ doesn't print and stops at Z=15 mm | <p>A distance of 15 mm is about the height of the probe or Z-offset. That can be a clue.</p>
<p>Compare the G-code from the testprint with the G-code you sliced. It can give you other clues.</p>
|
2020-05-10T20:19:32.777 | |ultimaker-cura| | <p>When I load a figure in Cura 4.6.1 I get weird dots all over my figure in <code>Prepare</code>-mode.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmuhK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmuhK.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>How come, and can I turn it off?</p>
<p>It's on every model I load :( I am fairly sure the normals are facing the correct way as well.</p>
| 13638 | Dots in Cura on Prepare-mode | <p>Solution found!</p>
<p>If <code>Display model errors</code> is disabled, the dots appears.
Check the setting, hit <code>OK</code>, click on the box and they disappear.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BhlE0.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BhlE0.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
|
2020-05-10T22:10:37.333 | |g-code|z-axis|homing|bigtreetech| | <p>I've recently configured my Bigtreetech mini e3 v1.2, and I have every aspect of the printer running well except for the initialized homing sequence (the problem is sometimes small enough to where I can still get a good print). Originally what I was running into was that because I used two Z stepper motors, any movement that wasn't manual input on Pronterface would cause the motors to vibrate and make noise (not enough current). Now the only time the Z motors make noise/vibrate is right after the homing is complete and they briefly move up when the nozzle begins to heat, as well as right after the heating is done and the nozzle dips down to begin the print. I suspect it's because of a fast increase in Z speed that I don't necessary need. I've tried changing a multitude of settings in <code>Configuration.h</code> but haven't had any luck. Does anybody know the command that dictates the Z motors to very quickly move upward just after homing and before heating?</p>
| 13640 | Prevent raising Z-axis after homing | <p>Just solved my own problem. Instead of looking in Marlin for the command, I found out the reason it was lifting up quickly was because of a custom command embedded in the G-code by the slicer. I got rid of the command and the problem was solved. </p>
|
2020-05-12T20:38:33.183 | |3d-models|software|file-formats|open-source|obj| | <p>I'm trying to compress different 3D files, but find it difficult to find the right software to compress the file.</p>
<p>What are the most suitable 3D file compressors to compress 3D files like STL, OBJ and STEP?</p>
<p>I have tried Draco, and mac zip compressor.</p>
| 13648 | How do I compress 3D files | <p>3D files differ greatly in size and what they contain:</p>
<h1>STL</h1>
<p>STL Stereolithography files were invented by 3D Systems to store surfaces. Originally it used ASCII text to store information by naming triplets of vertex positions for each triangle (facet). Since that got too large, newer STL are Binary, which is quite smaller.</p>
<p>Many programs can export them, their size is dependant on the number of surfaces. You can reduce the size of an STL by lowering the number of surfaces at the cost of detail.</p>
<h1>OBJ</h1>
<p>OBJ was invented by Wavefront as a means of storing 3D information. It stores the data as plain text by storing vertices, to which they connect and what texture is on surfaces spun up by the vertices.</p>
<p>In comparison to STL, they can be bigger if they include surface information. Programs that can't do STL usually support OBJ. Slicers take either. You can reduce the size of the file by reducing complexity.</p>
<h1>STEP</h1>
<p>STEP files don't save 3D items per se, they store instructions for CAD programs to generate a 3D item. This makes them extremely information-dense and can create highly complex items with a somewhat minimum of file size. They also allow us to easily modify the file.</p>
<p>However, STEP files can't be sliced directly and need to be opened by a CAD program.</p>
<h1>Comparison</h1>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGcpT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Simple hollow cube from two C-clamps"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGcpT.png" alt=""simple" hollow cube from 2 C-clamps" title="Simple hollow cube from two C-clamps" /></a></p>
<p>This is a simple object generated by a mere extrusion, rounding corners, extruding again and a sweep, then copying the item and moving it into position.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDOM6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Tools sequence"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDOM6.png" alt="Tools sequence" title="Tools sequence" /></a></p>
<p>But how does that compare as STL and OBJ? Well, the results of this item are rather small in either case, but you get a rough gist of their general comparability.</p>
<p>The STL is 74.3 kB, STEP is 90 kB, OBJ is 95.4 kB.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJLsx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="STL"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJLsx.png" alt="STL" title="STL" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvJyp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="STEP"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvJyp.png" alt="STEP" title="STEP" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DncAn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="OBJ"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DncAn.png" alt="OBJ" title="OBJ" /></a></p>
<p>However, in a maximum compressed <code>.zip</code> archive, things change a lot:</p>
<ul>
<li>STEP shrinks by 86 % to 13 kB</li>
<li>OBJ by 84 % to 16 kB</li>
<li>STL by a mere 73 % to 21 kB.</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWSUk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Compressed"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWSUk.png" alt="Compressed" title="Compressed" /></a></p>
<h2>Conclusion</h2>
<p>STEP is the best to give out in a zip archive if you want others to edit it. OBJ is a tad smaller in a zip archive than STL, but also can contain additional data.</p>
|
2020-05-14T08:29:45.800 | |resin| | <p>From what I understand, UV curing of resin prints works by starting a chemical reaction that hardens the resin permanently.</p>
<p>Also, a curing step after print is needed to speed up the print and also to reduce the curing during print, which would cure resin beyond the current layer.</p>
<p>However, what is the transmissivity of UV light in partially cured prints? If I print a more massive object, or if I use an opaque resin, how deep will the object harden properly? Absorption is always exponential, meaning that it decreases quickly with depth.</p>
<p>Depending on the resin, how thick prints can be effectively cured? This information is not provided with the resin, which I actually would expect from reputable manufacturers.</p>
| 13660 | Can UV cure inside opaque or more massive printed object? | <h2>My background</h2>
<p>I am not a polymer chemist. I know some, and I've talked about UV curing resins with them. These are my conclusions based on that informal education. Your expertise may well be better.</p>
<h2>Minimizing curing on the printer is good</h2>
<p>For the maximum print rate and best layer adhesion, the resin should cure during the printing exposure the minimum amount that is consistent with the object supporting itself during the print, being removable from the bed, being rinsed in isopropyl alcohol, and stand on its own during curing.</p>
<p>If you are curing too completely during exposure, you won't get optimal mixing of polymer chains between layers. The layers will be attached by the glue-like action of the new layer on the old, rather than having their polymer chains cross-linked and extending between layers.</p>
<p>If you are curing too little, the object won't be strong enough to support itself and survive post-processing. Soft, gummy bits may dissolve, or be swept away by currents in the cleaning solution. Small details may not be robust enough. Supporting structures (as added supports or parts of the model) may not be strong enough to resist gravity and handling.</p>
<p>If you are curing too completely, your print will take longer than it could take.</p>
<h2>Curing is not binary</h2>
<p>Curing will take place spontaneously over a long time. If it didn't, a bottle of resin might last a very long time. But, curing is not a self-catalyzing process that runs quickly to completion. If it were, then the first stray UV that came through an open bottle top would turn the contents solid. If exothermic (which it seems like it must be), the bottle would get hot.</p>
<h2>UV curing may fail</h2>
<p>UV curing the inside of a large, opaque object probably doesn't happen. Before I get all excited, though, I would need to place some bounds on "large" and "opaque". </p>
<p>Absorption of UV light depends on the pigment or dye used in the resin. This absorption is never absolute. It is not 100% gone after the first, thinnest penetration. The light is attenuated by an amount per distance it penetrates. </p>
<p>Transmission is the complement of absorption, and the numbers are easier to work with, so lets work with transmission factors of T rather than absorbtion factors of A. <span class="math-container">$T=1-A$</span></p>
<p>If a factor of T is passed for millimeter, then one centimeter into the object the light intensity is <span class="math-container">$T^{10}$</span> of what it is on the surface, which is a small, but non-zero, number.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that opaqueness depends on wavelength. For example, Window glass is transparent (very little absorption) to visible light, but highly attenuating to UV light. Were I to design a black resin, I would look for a black pigment that was relatively transmissive to UV.</p>
<h2>Will it cure?</h2>
<p>A low UV dose delivered to a 0.2mm layer of resin will partially cure the resin. 1 mm into an object, the dose is lower, but it still exists. 1 meter into the object, the absorption is probably too high pass a useful level of UV. </p>
<p>If the transmission factor is 0.8 for a 0.2 mm layer, it is <span class="math-container">$0.8^5$</span> for a 1 mm layer (0.33). It would take only three times as much UV exposure to cure a 1 mm thickness as a 0.2 mm thickness. If the object were 1 meter thick, the transmission to the inner bit would be <span class="math-container">$0.8^{5000}$</span>, which is a very tiny number, roughly <span class="math-container">$2.82×10^{-485}$</span>.</p>
<p>Finally, consider if the object is or must be truly be solid. UV curable resin is relatively expensive. Many UV printable objects include drainage paths for uncured resin to flow out of the object during printing. Perhaps your object could similarly be hollowed out.</p>
|
2020-05-16T19:45:36.947 | |heated-bed|adhesion| | <p>I think that heated bed have some disadvantages - they arent always reliable, they consume additional electrical power. </p>
<p>I can imagine one way how HB can be replaced - in some flat surface - glass or iron sheet we can drill some specific holes (probable a bit conic). Then, before detail printing start, printer could fill it with material and continue print detail connecting to these fixations. That can fixate detail in X,Y and probably even Z axis. After printing we can just take detail or cut fixations (if there were Z fixations)</p>
<p>I almost sure someone in industry already thought about this bud didnt release and I dont understand why. Defineteley there is pitfails, but I dont see them. Why this method cant be used to replace heated beds?</p>
| 13678 | Use fixation holes instead heated bed | <p>I've used a 3D printer that had a perforated (and heated) bed for adhesion. It was some incarnation of the Up printer -- and this was several years ago (2014 or 2015) when 3D printing was very hyped but hadn't reached its present level of technological maturity. </p>
<p>(this was also before things like BuildTak and PEI sheet.)</p>
<p>The bed was made of a perforated fiberglass material similar to PCB boards (without soldermask or copper), black in color, and it was <em>terrible</em>. Prints were printed with a raft, which remained stuck to the bed holes and resisted all efforts to remove them short of a chisel or something similar, and before long all the bed plates (there were several) were marked and gouged from people trying to scrape plastic off of them. (they also warped). </p>
<p>I do not think that this is something we want to imitate, especially as it seems like Buildtak-like plastic coatings or glass work so well. </p>
<p>As to the use of holes <em>alone</em> to fix parts: They are going to be under stress, possibly too much shear stress for them to hold, you won't get the other benefits of heating, and you'll have trouble as you build upwards. For an extreme example, look at the difficulties of printing the insanely high temperature plastic PEEK, which basically requires not merely a heated bed but a heated chamber. </p>
|
2020-05-17T11:26:30.227 | |prusa-i3|print-failure| | <p>I'm trying to print the painter's tripod from <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36uU1Z7OiJg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this tutorial</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sa8EE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sa8EE.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I can't get it to finish the print. It always fails towards the top when it's closing the circles. I've tried brims and even glue for adhesion, and different settings for inlays, perimeters, etc... my bed levelling is correct and my first layer is perfect. The prints come out beautiful, but they always fail there. I have a theory but since I don't have a camera set up I can't confirm, but I feel like the nozzle gets stuck against the previous layer, as if when it's coming from the other side of the "bridge" completing the upper layers of the circle, it get's to the other side of the gap and it finds that the filament has hardened just a bit higher than when it's going to print, and therefore knocks the piece to the side (despite using glue!!), and from that point on, obviously, total mess and I have to cancel. Just a theory though. Any ideas of what else could this be or what to do about it?</p>
<p>Printer is a Prusa i3 Mark3S</p>
| 13686 | Can't print the top part of a circle | <p>You are trying to print an unsupported edge up there - the top edge has nothing to rest on and thus sags down. As a result, the print failed.</p>
<p>To remedy this, activate printing with support. With a support angle of 80° or tree support, you could minimize the needed material.</p>
|
2020-05-18T00:57:59.173 | |marlin|creality-ender-3|hotend|pid| | <p>Working on upgrading my Ender 3 to a dual extruder setup using the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B075CK4JRN" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Winsinn dual hot end</a> and <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B076S2SDQ9" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MKS Base V1.6</a> motherboard using Marlin FW 2.0.5 and am unable to get the PID autotune to work. When I start the autotune, the temperature spikes pretty quickly and quickly fails, either heating to 60 °C or 200 °C (<code>M303 C5 E0 S60</code>) for either hot end (E0 or E1). After looking through other online messages, I used <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B078SQ4BPR" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">24 V heater cartridges</a> rather than the 12 V ones that came with the hot end. Aditionally, I have the thermisistor settings to use config 6 (rather than 1) after reading through user recommendations on the hot end. After failing to get the hotend to heat properly, I have the following questions:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Should I try reducing the current to the cartridge? Currently set to default of 255?</p></li>
<li><p>Are there any other PID changes I should make to allow the autotune to figure out the right parameters to use?</p></li>
<li><p>Are there any other tests recommended to figure out why the hot end heats without being stopped by Marlin?</p></li>
</ol>
<p>Here is a chart showing the temperatures of the hotends and bed while running autotune on T0 and T1. Weird gap in second attempt was verifying that the right sensor was plugged into the right mainboard pin (no power going to hot end at this time). </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kbe1x.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kbe1x.png" alt="PID autotune temperature"></a></p>
<p>Thermistor settings:</p>
<pre><code>#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6
</code></pre>
| 13691 | PID autotune fails with a temp too high | <p>As the heating curve is very steep, it could be that the wrong cartridges are inserted, or you have been supplied the incorrect cartridges. <em>(Not long ago I've had a similar experience with a 12 V cartridge in between my 24 V spares...)</em></p>
<p>To find out for which voltage the cartridge has to be used you can measure the resistance with a multitester/multimeter. You can calculate the resistance roughly by using the formulas:
<span class="math-container">$$ U = I \times R$$</span>
<span class="math-container">$$ P = {U}\times{I} $$</span>
Combing these formulas gives:
<span class="math-container">$$ R = \frac{U^2}{P}$$</span></p>
<p>(P is power in Watt [W], I is current [A], U is voltage [V] and R is the resistance in Ohm [Ω])</p>
<p>Your multimeter readings should be close to the calculated values. About 4 Ohms for a 12 V/40 W cartridge and about 14 Ohms for a 24 V/40 W cartridge.</p>
<p>Since the Ender 3 is running on 24 V, you need the higher resistance cartridges.</p>
<hr />
<p>If you are using a 4 Ω (12 V/40 W) cartridge on 24 V, the power would become:</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$$ P = \frac{U^2}{R}= \frac{24^2}{4}=144\ {W} $$</span></p>
<p>This amount of power will quickly raise the temperature of the nozzle! It then becomes very difficult for the PID control schedule to harness that power (e.g. overshoot control).</p>
<p>From the question is read that:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I used 24 V heater cartridges rather than the 12 V ones that came with the hot end</p>
</blockquote>
<p>If the cartridges are truly 24 V this rapid heat-up is not expected, it could be that you accidentally received incorrect cartridges, you should measure the resistance to be sure.</p>
|
2020-05-18T23:31:20.633 | |material|safety|build-surface| | <p>I have a Creality Ender 3 that needs a build surface (both the build-tak sticker and the removable stiff backer). My dad has been pestering me to try using paper as a disposable surface. I am hesitant to do so for concerns regarding fires and degrading the bottom of the print. Has anyone here tried this and what were the results?</p>
| 13695 | Paper as build surface - how will that work? | <p>Blue masking tape is a common bed surface, especially for unheated beds. It is effectively an adhesive applied to a paper, although I suspect the paper is treated in some manner to serve as a barrier to paint, as the blue tape is sold as paint masking tape.</p>
<p>A sheet of ordinary paper isn't likely to catch fire, as the bed temperature will not reach combustion temperature for paper (more than 230 °C), but you still have to have the means of providing adhesion of the paper to the bed.</p>
<p>A thick enough weight of paper may provide sufficient rigidity to provide for a stable print surface, if the perimeter is well secured and uniformly (smoothly) attached.</p>
<p>You'll have to experiment with various types of paper surfaces as well, as some may be treated (calendared) during manufacturing, which could affect the results.</p>
<p>Blue tape is your best bet if you want disposable. Also if you use care in removal, it is not a single use bed covering.</p>
|
2020-05-19T11:14:17.087 | |ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|g-code|slicing| | <p>I was printing a lid for a box in my Ender 3 pro printer. But I don't know why it stopped printing and moved aside when it does in finished printings. This happened at midnight and I didn't see it until I woke up. In the hope for a resume I didn't remove the finished part from the printer bed. So now how can I resume this printing from where it left. The total width of the lid was 3 mm and it printed 2.4 mm now only 0.6 mm part left to print.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrcE3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrcE3.jpg" alt="photo 1 of unfinished print" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmiOT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmiOT.jpg" alt="photo 2 of unfinished print" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYcLZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XYcLZ.jpg" alt="photo 3 of unfinished print" /></a></p>
| 13702 | How to resume an unfinished project? | <p>Provided that the print hasn't come loose from the bed and you know the layer height or layer number (you could count the amount of layers or measure the height of the print using a caliper), you can edit the original G-code file to print the remainder of the print. The following hints should be taken into account:</p>
<ul>
<li>Don't use <code>G28</code> or <code>G29</code> instead use <code>G28 X Y</code> (please note that using <code>G28</code> or <code>G28 Z</code> to home Z as well, may not work if the print is blocking the homing of Z, e.g. when homing in the center of the build plate)</li>
<li>Manually position the printhead at the correct Z height (place the cold nozzle on top of your failed print when the steppers are not powered, you could leave a paper thickness of a gap in between the nozzle and the print) and instruct the printer to use that height for reference: e.g. when the print stopped at layer 12 with a 0.2 mm layer height (2.4 mm height or use the measured height with a caliper) define <code>G92 Z2.4</code></li>
<li>Make sure the hotend is primed before resuming printing</li>
<li>Cut all the G-code present in the file prior to the layer you want to start printing (e.g. search for <code>G1 Z2.2</code>), but do add bed and hotend heating, e.g. respectively <code>M190 S60</code> and <code>M109 S200</code></li>
</ul>
<p>What you can also do is:</p>
<ul>
<li>Reprint the whole print</li>
<li>Re-slice the print where you have sunk the print 2.4 mm into the bed in the slicer just printing the top face which you glue on later (this works only if the print is exactly at the same position as the initial slice, preferable the project was saved in the slicer or the default position after inserting the print object is used, note that this is difficult to reproduce when multiple objects were place on the bed, it would be better to edit the existing G-code instead!).</li>
</ul>
<p><em>Note that you will always see a difference in appearance compared to an object printed in one session, you will see an interface line between the first and the second part.</em></p>
|
2020-05-19T17:25:33.937 | |marlin| | <p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3586/adding-custom-m-codes-to-marlin">Adding custom M Codes to Marlin</a> doesn't work for Marlin 2.0</p>
<p>How would one go about adding custom G codes or M Codes to Marlin 2.0? The Marlin_main.cpp file does not exist. </p>
<p>In general for Marlin 2.0, things are organized better, but split into more files. </p>
| 13705 | Adding custom M or G codes to Marlin 2.0 | <ol start="0">
<li>Choose a code in the >10,000 in case new codes are added. But in this example I will choose 13</li>
<li>Navigate to 'src' folder of Marlin</li>
<li>Edit the file <code>gcode.cpp</code> around line 223 to have a new unused number. For example, this will create a new G code function for the label <code>G13</code>.</li>
</ol>
<pre><code> ...
// Handle a known G, M, or T
switch (parser.command_letter) {
case 'G': switch (parser.codenum) {
case 13: G13(); break;
case 0: case 1: G0_G1(
...
</code></pre>
<ol start="3">
<li><p>On line 375 of <code>gcode.h</code> add: <code> static void G13();</code> to declare it.</p>
</li>
<li><p>In my case i was reading values from an analog system. So I went to <code>src/temperatures</code> and copied <code>M105.cpp</code> to be <code>G13.cpp</code>. Then inside the file I replaced <code>GcodeSuite::M105</code> to be <code>GcodeSuite::G13</code>. I am using this to take in the weight of something using a [scale][1] but for now I just want to test functionality so here is my test function:</p>
</li>
</ol>
<pre><code>
void GcodeSuite::G13() {
SERIAL_ECHOPGM(MSG_OK);
SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM("here is where weights are broadcast");
}
</code></pre>
<p>And again this is the only part I changed in my new copy of M105.cpp (a new file named G13.cpp). There is still more stuff in the file than just these few lines.</p>
<ol start="5">
<li><p>Upload to board</p>
</li>
<li><p>When going to octoprint and typing in <code>G13</code> I get:</p>
</li>
</ol>
<pre><code>
Send: G13
Recv: okhere is where weights are broadcast
</code></pre>
<p>A bit more work can be done to make it look nice, but this was the hard part.
[1]: <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/</a></p>
|
2020-05-20T07:22:02.427 | |marlin|pla|creality-ender-3|troubleshooting|heated-bed| | <p>Most people complain about the filament not sticking on build plate but mine is vice versa. At first it used to be very good. When I removed the magnetic bed the project would come off easily but for a few days it is like I glue it to the bed with epoxy. It is impossible to remove and when I remove the black projects from the bed I see white color at the bottom of the object printed. Maybe because of too much force but I don't know why this happens.</p>
| 13712 | The filament is almost impossible to remove | <p>Had this problem on my second print. The nozzle was too close to the bed. The only way I got it all off was to heat the bed. Then the PLA became a bit softer and came off pretty fast.</p>
|
2020-05-21T13:51:39.333 | |extruder|g-code|tevo-tornado| | <p>Sometimes my Extruder will start spinning pointlessly fast and long.</p>
<p><a href="https://youtu.be/HWjxV_dS1Kg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Youtube Video showing the problem</a></p>
<p>This Issue only happens:</p>
<ul>
<li>When printer has finished a Layer and moved up to the next (right after the Z axis has moved) </li>
<li>Not on all, but only on some layers of a print.<br>
Typically it will be more towards the middle of a print, and it will happen on several (maybe 10, 20, or a lot more) consecutive layers</li>
</ul>
<p>My regular Setup/Stack:</p>
<ul>
<li>PrusaSlicer-2.0.0+win64-201905201652</li>
<li>Octoprint (Version 1.4.0)</li>
<li>Tevo Tornado (with Mamorubot print-platform)</li>
</ul>
<p>I have tried to test whether the source of the problem could be Octoprint or the slicer/gcode.</p>
<p><strong>Octoprint:</strong><br>
The problem persists, when i print directly from SD</p>
<p><strong>slicer/gcode:</strong><br>
Here is some gcode, one of a layer change where the problem did occur and one where it was fine:
Problem occured here:</p>
<pre><code>G1 X167.854 Y170.305 E209.95401
G1 X167.851 Y132.289 E210.24063
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0.0
;3.95
G1 Z3.950 F7800.000
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;3.95
G1 X168.141 Y131.859
G1 F3600
G1 X129.532 Y131.858 E211.24663
G1 X128.945 Y131.592 E211.26340
G1 X128.419 Y131.004 E211.28396
</code></pre>
<p>No Problem occured here:</p>
<pre><code>G1 X168.288 Y170.558 E474.06508
G1 X168.224 Y170.259 E474.06950
G1 X168.213 Y131.857 E474.62495
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
G92 E0.0
;9.8
G1 Z9.800 F7800.000
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;9.8
G1 X168.559 Y131.441
G1 F3600
G1 X129.622 Y131.440 E475.63947
G1 X129.198 Y131.248 E475.65161
G1 X128.776 Y130.777 E475.66807
</code></pre>
<p>I cannot see any problem with the gcode.</p>
<p>Now I am at my wits' end - what could be the source of the problem, and how to I proceed to debug it?</p>
| 13722 | Extruder spins for a few seconds after layer changes | <p>Doing some googling, it looks like the <code>BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE</code> comment in the G-code and stuff that follow come from the <code>before_layer_gcode</code> setting in your PrusaSlicer profile. Somehow, <code>G92 E0.0</code> got in there. Remove it and the problem should go away.</p>
|
2020-05-21T18:00:03.323 | |diy-3d-printer|electronics| | <p>Typically in Arduinos, most of the 5 V outputs that have a limited amount of current (40 mA). </p>
<p>Are there any 3D printer boards, or is there even a more usual spot, where you can get a 5 V output that isn't capped by the microcontroller?</p>
<p>I know that USB 2.0 is (typically) limited to 500 mA especally when connected to a laptop. Just wondering if there was a way to for e.g. get a 200 mA output from one of the 5 V pins, or more if there is a stronger power supply connected to the USB port. </p>
| 13723 | Access uncapped 5 V output on 3D printer controller board | <p>Any 5 V "output" on those main boards would be used to power a USB host. This is because the electronics actually runs on 3.3 volts. It would be better to splice the input power (the 12 to 24 V) and use a buck converter to get down to your required 5 V. Select the right one, and you can have all the current you need. </p>
|
2020-05-24T16:17:20.553 | |delta| | <p>About a year a go I bought a Tevo Little Monster second hand. It was a little dirty but (as far as I could see) unmodified. I put away that noisy "MKS SBASE"-board with smoothieware and installed a nice Duet 2 Ethernet board. I tried for weeks to get it going but without success, then decided to try it again later.
Now I am on it again and already put a lot more effort in it than last time. Anyway, the problem persists and it is really driving me nuts!</p>
<p>Out there on the internet are several people who succeeded with a duet board on the same printer, so it must be possible. For Example <a href="https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/1612/tevo-little-monster-duet-ethernet-conversion" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>.</p>
<h1>My Background</h1>
<p>I am doing 3D printing for a while now. Besides the Little Monster I own a Makerbot Replicator 2X (running latest Sailfish), a Anycubic Delta Linear Plus (running self-compiled Marlin 1.1.9) and – for two weeks now – a Two Trees Sapphire Pro (running self-compiled Marlin 2.0.x). All these printers are running absolutely fine.</p>
<hr>
<h1>Problem</h1>
<p>As far as I can tell, my problem boils down to inaccurate z positioning of the nozzle.
This makes the nozzle (heavily) scratch on printed parts of the same layer. Small parts are often ripped of the bed by the nozzle before the print is finished. Practically I cannot use the printer in its current state.</p>
<p><a href="https://youtu.be/cQqF4Cd4BHg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here is a video of the Problem.</a></p>
<hr>
<h1>Test setup</h1>
<p>My usual test scenario is a 100 x 100 x 20 mm box with two walls, two top/bottom-layers and 50% Infill. Maximum Speed 90 mm/s. The speed should be fine, as the printer is advertised with 300 mm/s.</p>
<hr>
<h1>What I changed from stock:</h1>
<ul>
<li>Install genuine BL Touch</li>
<li>Changed controller board from stock "MKS SBASE" to Duet 2 Ethernet</li>
<li>Removed sticker from printbed and placed a UltraBase (310 x 310 mm) on top of the stock glas plate</li>
<li>Replaced stock titan-ish extruder by cloned BMG dual drive Extruder (same extruder as on all of my other printers)</li>
<li>Replaced full-metal hotend by a hotend with PTFE liner</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<h1>What I already tried to solve the problem:</h1>
<h2>Hypothesis: Bad config of duet board</h2>
<p>Actions: see separate section</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Narrow nosed nozzle does not smooth the printed line enough</h2>
<p>Actions: replaced narrow-nosed nozzle (0.6mm) by broad-nosed nozzle (0.4mm) and adjusted cura accordingly</p>
<p>Result: No difference</p>
<h2>Hytothesis: There is something wrong with the firmware</h2>
<p>Action: Upgraded duet board from RepRap 2.0 to 3.0</p>
<p>Result: No difference</p>
<h2>Hyptothesis: Geometrical inaccurate build</h2>
<p>Actions: Measured arm space on effector and carriages (by caliper), "measured" rod lengths by eye (b/c my caliper can only measure about 150mm), checked towers by eye for bending.</p>
<p>Result: Arm spacing on effector and carriage is the same down to 0.19mm. Rod lengths have no noticeable difference, towers seem to be straight.</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Joints on delta Rods have play</h2>
<p>Actions: Tried to shake/move/wiggle the effector by hand</p>
<p>Result: No noticeable play</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Overextrusion</h2>
<p>Action: Intentionally underextruded (80% flow) for testing</p>
<p>Result: Printed lines became noticable more narrow (not even touch each other), but scratching persists.</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Rubber wheels of the carriages running too rough and are worn out</h2>
<p>Action: Replaced rubber wheels by linear Rails. (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4391975" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a>)</p>
<p>Result: Carriages run much smoother, but this change does not help with my problem</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Belt tension is bad</h2>
<p>Action: Tensioned the belts thoroughly</p>
<p>Result: No noticable difference</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Tooth belts are worn out</h2>
<p>Action: Replaced tooth-belt with new GT-2 Belt</p>
<p>Result: Belts look more regular when moving, does not help with my problem</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Pulleys and Idlers are worn out or not sufficiently round</h2>
<p>Action: Replaced Pulleys and Idlers</p>
<p>Result: No noticable difference</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: One or more of the stepper motors are not working properly</h2>
<p>Action: Replaced all tower motors (incl. wiring) with new ones</p>
<p>Result: No noticable difference</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: One of the stepper drivers is not working correctly</h2>
<p>Action1: Investigation of signals on the motor-wires by oscilloscope</p>
<p>Result1: They all looked about the same (short square pulses), in principal no difference between all motor wires. (I do not know how these signals <em>should</em> look like. I just tried to spot differences.)</p>
<p>Action2: Changed the drivers for the tower motors one by one with the unused E1-driver</p>
<p>Result2: No noticable difference</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Leveling is bad due bad probing</h2>
<p>Action1: Checked leveling manually (with feeler gauge) and checked BL-Touch repeatability. </p>
<p>Result1: Found deviation of 0.2mm on some points between automated and manual leveling. Repeatability is good (accurate to 0.02mm)</p>
<p>Action2: Leveling is now done by a DF9-40 weight-resistor (and a voltage divider). This sensor is mounted (manually every time) directly under the nozzle.</p>
<p>Result2: The first layer is next to perfect. To my understanding that means a correct calibration.</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Flying extruder is too heavy and impacts the accuracy of the carriage movement</h2>
<p>Action: changed extruder from flying to remote, mounted on one of the towers</p>
<p>Result: Problem seems to hit maybe a little less. I am not entirely sure about this.</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: My problem is no problem, a little scratching is nothing unusual</h2>
<p>Action: Tried the same print on my smaller Delta printer</p>
<p>Result: No scratching on the other printer. Hence it seems not to be usual.</p>
<h2>Hypothesis: Scratching is related partial overextrusion due to "extrusion delay" caused by bowden system</h2>
<p>Action: Tested linear advance between 0 to 1.2</p>
<p>Result: linear advance seems to work as intended (watching the extruder), but does not change anything on my problem</p>
<hr>
<h1>Configuration</h1>
<p>I tried to transfer the settings from the original smoothieware config-files as good as possible. Original smoothieware files can be found <a href="https://github.com/Homers3D/Tevo-Little-Monster/blob/master/Control%20Board/config" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here on github</a></p>
<p>To have a consistent config, I used the <a href="https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RRF Browser Config Tool</a>. </p>
<p><strong>Motor Current:</strong>
There is no advice printed on the original motors concerning the current. Smoothieware config file says 1.5 Amp. Thats what I configured. (The Replacement-Motors came with a data sheet, they can take 2 Amp. So they got 2 Amp)</p>
<p><strong>Steps per mm:</strong>
On all tower motors there are 20-tooth-GT2-pulleys. RRF Config tool suggests 80 steps/mm (with 16x microstepping). I tried it with and without interpolation from 16x to 256x and with "native" 256x microstepping (1280 steps/mm). Also tried native 32x microstepping with 159.53 steps/mm (like in the smoothieware config) and 160 steps/mm. Does not change anything on the problem.</p>
<p><strong>Delta Parameters:</strong>
<a href="https://github.com/Homers3D/Tevo-Little-Monster/blob/master/Control%20Board/config" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Original Smoothieware</a> config suggests:</p>
<pre><code>arm_length 397.1900 # This is the length of an arm from hinge to hinge
arm_radius 157.0741 # This is the horizontal distance from hinge to hinge when the effector is centered
</code></pre>
<p>That seems to be (roughly) consistent with what I measure by folding ruler. So that is what I put in my config right away.</p>
<p><strong>Auto Calibration:</strong>
Tried 4,6,7,8 and 9 factors (using the force-sensor, not BL Touch) and put the results into splunk. Each data point is averaged over 3 calibration runs with exactly the same settings, every time starting from the smoothieware stock-values. (First run was with 159.53 steps/mm, second with 160 steps/mm)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcZuJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcZuJ.png" alt="Splunk Dashboard showing calibration behaviour"></a></p>
<p>Surprisingly the auto calibration finds reliably the same parameters, which differ from the stock-config ones. I have no Idea why, but similar things happen on my smaller delta printer. Hence I do not consider this a problem.</p>
<p><strong>Speed and acceleration:</strong>
Lowering acceleration (down to 300 mm/s) does not change anything. Lowering speed makes scratching less loud, but still hearable/feelable rumble from the nozzle on the print. Prints are still ripped of the print bed.</p>
<pre><code>; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Fri Apr 24 2020 17:00:42 GMT+0200 (CEST)
; General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"jKossel19" ; set printer name
;M665 R157.0741 L397.19 B155 H522 ;
M665 R170 L397.19 B155 H525 ; from forum.duet3d.com with modified hight 520 ==> 525
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them
; Network
M552 S1 ; enable network
M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet
; Drives
M569 P0 S0 ; physical drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0 ; physical drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S0 ; physical drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S0 ; physical drive 3 goes backwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E418.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X480.00 Y480.00 Z480.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X240000.00 Y240000.00 Z240000.00 E1800.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E1000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X2000 Y2000 Z2000 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1 ; set minimum Z
; Endstops
M574 X2 S1 P"xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on X via pin xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Y via pin ystop
M574 Z2 S1 P"zstop" ; configure active-high endstop for high end on Z via pin zstop
; Z-Probe BLTouch
;M950 S0 C"exp.heater3" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
;M558 P9 C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod" H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
;G31 P500 X0 Y20 Z0.45 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
;M557 R140 S45 ; define mesh grid
; Z-Probe MANUAL
;M558 P0 H5 F120 T6000 ; disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed
; Z-Probe weight resistor
M558 P1 C"zprobe.in" H5 F60 T6000 ; set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z0.05 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4092 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 Q10 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4092 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
; Fans
M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S1 H1 T50 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned on
M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency
M106 P1 S0 H-1 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
; Tools
M563 P0 S"Vulcan" D0 H1 F0:2:1 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
; Custom settings
; set heater parameters
M307 H0 A213.8 C593.5 D3.3 S1.00 V24.6 B0
M307 H1 A513.6 C184.3 D8.4 S1.00 V24.4 B0
M572 D0 S0.5 ; pressure advance
; Miscellaneous
M501 ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory
</code></pre>
<hr>
<h1>Workarounds:</h1>
<ul>
<li>Yes Z-hop helps, but only with travel moves. That is no solution, only a partly working workaround. </li>
<li>No infill with crossing lines: Yes possible, but no: i want a sturdy infill.</li>
</ul>
<hr>
<h1>What I still do not understand:</h1>
<ul>
<li><p>Measurements are subject to statistical errors. Marlin (on my anycubic delta-printer) fights this by probing the same point multiple times and taking the average for calibration. As far as I could find out, RepRap firmware does not support this. Is that correct? Is there any good reason? I am quite sure, calibration accuracy would get a little better with this.</p></li>
<li><p>Does a perfect first layer really mean accurate calibration of the delta-parameters? Is there any other way i can be sure?</p></li>
<li><p>I really would like to know more about the effector tilt. But a bubble level does not offer enough accuracy. Is there any good way to measure this?</p></li>
<li><p>I am absolutely not sure about this, but I remember very faintly not to have this problem when printing with the original smoothie board on a completely unmodified printer. But I only made one or two test prints with it. Sadly I cannot test it anymore, because I do not have the smoothie board anymore.</p></li>
<li><p>In the very first place I made a mistake with wiring of the motors to the duet board and shorted at least one motor output. (Duet board told me so, I corrected my mistake. Afterwards everything seemed fine.) Might I have damaged my duet board in a way that might cause my problem?</p></li>
<li><p>There are parameters in the smoothie config that I cannot find in the duet config. Neither could I find why the duet config does not need these parameters.</p>
<ul>
<li>mm_max_arc_error</li>
<li>mm_per_arc_segment</li>
</ul></li>
<li><p>Auto calibration finds (repeatable) delta parameters that do not match the smoothieware config, mainly rod length and delta radius. Is there any difference in definition? The numbers from the original smoothieware definition seem to be more consistent with my (quite unprecise) measurements (down to 1-2 mm). I actually know this behavior of "too long" calibrated push rods from my Anycubic Delta. But it does not seem to cause any problems there.</p></li>
</ul>
<hr>
<p><strong>EDIT</strong></p>
<p><em>Recently tried:</em></p>
<ul>
<li>changed duet board for a new one (yes I bought a brand new one)</li>
<li>used different slicer (Slic3r instead of cura)</li>
<li>started from scratch with a new config</li>
</ul>
<p><em>Result:</em>
problem persists and has not changed noticeably.</p>
| 13739 | Deltaprinter scratches print | <p>Finally I found an solution. But I still don't know what exactly the problem was.</p>
<p>In my case the problem vanished after the following steps:</p>
<ul>
<li>replace stock effector with <a href="https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Duet Smart Effector</a></li>
<li>replaced stock push rods with <a href="https://www.magballarms.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Magballarms</a></li>
<li>used <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4458056" rel="nofollow noreferrer">custom carriages on the towers</a></li>
</ul>
|
2020-05-25T19:17:55.043 | |marlin|skr-v1.3|ezabl| | <p>I'm using an Ender 3 with a new upgraded board SKR 1.3 Marlin bugfix 2.0 auto bed leveling I use EZABL.</p>
<p>for the EZABL I followed their <a href="https://th3dstudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360043293552?seq_no=2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tutorial</a> for Marlin 2.0 since I don't use the unified firmware.</p>
<p>Offset info :</p>
<p><code>#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 50, -2, 0 }</code></p>
<p><code>#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 20</code></p>
<p>I did try to follow this helpful <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling">guide</a> </p>
<p>I don't know much about programming so when he said:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>"As this is the part that defines the array values, you first need to make an array (note that this is a simple solution that many people should be able to understand with limited programming skills, more elegant solutions use the XYZ struct to access the X, Y or Z properties):"</p>
</blockquote>
<p><code>constexpr int nozzle_to_probe_offset[] = NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET;</code></p>
<p><code>#define PROBE_X_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[0]</code></p>
<p><code>#define PROBE_Y_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER nozzle_to_probe_offset[1]</code></p>
<p>I don't understand where to put the lines above and what value to put.</p>
<p>update:
error message on compiling
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qqj7F.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qqj7F.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
Config.h : <a href="https://pastebin.com/w7CC5eaC" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://pastebin.com/w7CC5eaC</a>
Config_adv.h : <a href="https://pastebin.com/qep34T1h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://pastebin.com/qep34T1h</a></p>
| 13748 | Auto bed leveling offset issue | <p>You do not need to adjust the area yourself for Marlin 2.0, please look into <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/module/probe.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">probe.h</a> and into <a href="/a/8154">this answer</a>.</p>
<p>You only need to enable the offsets:</p>
<pre><code>#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE
#endif
</code></pre>
|
2020-05-26T01:12:58.340 | |marlin|thermistor|pid| | <p>The thermistor of the hotend of my printer broke, at the moment I have no way to replace it, due to the global situation with the virus.
In my hands I have one of these <a href="https://www.mpja.com/download/rex-c100.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">industrial PIDs</a> which is Temperature controller+K-type couple+SSR.
Is there a way to disable the PID in Marlin and start printing manually when the PID reaches the desired temperature? I just need it for PLA right now.
This way I can use the printer at least until I can replace the thermistor</p>
| 13750 | Disable Marlin PID, and start print manual | <p>You can edit the temperature control commands out of your gcode, or just tell your slicer to omit them, typically by setting temperature to 0. Then, as you suggested, start the print manually once your industrial PID tells you it's at-temperature.</p>
|
2020-05-26T04:01:31.273 | |wi-fi|flsun-qq|mks| | <p>I want to be able to control my FLSUN QQ over Wi-Fi and don't have OctoPrint or a Raspberry Pi to run it on.</p>
| 13752 | How can I print to my FLSUN QQ over Wi-Fi? | <p>As the auto-install from the Marketplace described in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13753">this answer</a> wasn't working , I did have to manually install the MKS WiFi plugin on my Mac (M1 MBPro). To do this I just:</p>
<ol>
<li>Downloaded the GitHub files (from the plugin webpage, linked in the Marketplace)</li>
<li>Right-clicked the Cura icon in the Applications folder, to show
package contents</li>
<li>I then went into the macOS folder and followed the plugin link</li>
<li>Copy the downloaded GitHub files</li>
<li>Restart Cura</li>
</ol>
<p>I then just followed the printer setup advice in Cura from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13753">this answer</a>.</p>
<p>No more messing around with SD cards :)</p>
|
2020-05-28T10:58:44.477 | |file-formats|legal| | <p>Is there any DRM or license management solution for 3D printing? I'm looking for something, that would help me limit the number of prints someone can make from my projects. Basically, I would like to sell the "right to make no more than X copies" of my design. I don't expect it to be bullet-proof (like Widevine L1 for video), but it should at least help me with license management.</p>
| 13767 | DRM or license management solution for 3D printing | <h2>Generally: No</h2>
<p>Let's face the obvious problems of the files exchanged and the files used for printing, and then look into why it is a bad idea in the first place.</p>
<h2>G-code</h2>
<p>G-code is in its design a .txt file that contains specific orders for a machine. There is a g-code command that forces the printer to delete the file (<a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M030.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M30</code></a>) but that needs the exact file path - and just does nothing if the path is incorrect. One could make a slicer profile, that after printing, deletes the file from the SD-card, but doing so as a user is only useful for one-off jobs and it can be prevented by the user by simply shutting down the printer before the line is triggered.</p>
<p>Because .gcode is essentially a .txt without any special features but a custom ending, it can't provide DRM beyond containing a self-delete-after-completion.</p>
<h2>STL & OBJ</h2>
<p>STL and OBJ are the most relevant exchange files. They are open source and not intended to contain any DRM.</p>
<h2>Other formats?</h2>
<p>Even with a different format, you would need both a <strong>proprietary 3D format</strong> that can only be read by your DRM-enabled slicer as well as a <strong>proprietary printer file type</strong> that both contain DRM. However, using a proprietary printer command type means you lock down your file to be only available to your printer family, which in turn makes this printer family <strong>less</strong> desirable, as it can't work with the standard g-code format.</p>
|
2020-05-29T04:20:19.543 | |thermistor|mosfet| | <p>My print area is ~ 17x16 inches (431.8 mm x 406.4 mm = 175,158.4 mm/2). To that end I need four (4) 200mm square heaters, and associated mosfets to run it. Each heater has it's own thermistor and can potentially reach the target temp independently (theoretically they could, since there will be deviations in manufacturing).</p>
<p>My mainboard (the SKR Pro) has support for 4 thermistors; however my solution in this configuration has 5.</p>
<p>When I double the size of the printer later this year, I expect that I will need 8 heaters.</p>
<p>Is there a solution to control that many heaters such that non of them over shoot their temps, or am I going to have to design and build a dedicated thermal management board to control beds of this nature?</p>
| 13774 | How to control 4 thermistors in a heated bed? | <p>You can use the Klipper firmware which accepts an <a href="https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/da68da7a63322c300acf574f0068bb09b8073916/config/example-extras.cfg#L1267" rel="nofollow noreferrer">arbitrary number of heaters</a>.</p>
<p>Then you can write a Klipper macro which takes one input and applies it to each heated bed (or not, as you prefer).</p>
<p>With Klipper you can also add another Arduino and connect it to klipper as well, in case you don't have enough pins on your board: klipper is <a href="https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/da68da7a63322c300acf574f0068bb09b8073916/config/example-multi-mcu.cfg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">not limited</a> to controlling one single board per printer.</p>
<p>Check the docs.</p>
|
2020-05-29T09:20:40.480 | |sla|resin| | <p>Recently I have started using a fairly large LCD resin printer. (Yidimu Falcon Pro)
It has a fairly large 260x160mm perforated and coated steel build plate and a decent dual rail Z axis with a ballscrew. It has a 10" LCD. It prints ChiTuBox files from a USB stick.</p>
<p>I have been having a mostly successful print, at good quality, but the bed adhesion keeps haunting me. The best print on this machine had parts curling up from the build plate, however most of the print succeeded.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Two times I have had a very well adhering raft, however delamination occured directly after the raft.</p></li>
<li><p>Usually the left side lifts from the bed while the model stays on the build plate.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>I have tried:</p>
<p>Changing resin (tried Druckwerk Pro D Black and Anycubic Black)</p>
<ul>
<li>Decreasing lift speed</li>
<li>Increasing lift distance</li>
<li>Increasing bottom layer exposure time (from 60 to 180, as suggested by Druckwerck supplier)</li>
<li>Increasing bottom layer count to 9</li>
<li>Using a large raft</li>
<li>Using a very large raft</li>
<li>Using a very small raft</li>
<li>Leveling build plate without vat in place, using paper</li>
<li>Leveling build plate while keeping vat in place</li>
</ul>
<p>What would be a good next troubleshooting step?</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpZWt.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpZWt.png" alt="first layer with small raft"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRWtS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRWtS.png" alt="first layer with large raft"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYl8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYl8.jpg" alt="model peeling off of print bed"></a></p>
| 13776 | How to prevent model from peeling off of resin printer buildplate during print? | <p>I had an issue with my Vat Bolts, one being cracked and leveling at a greater tension than the other. With the compressible feet of my Vat this caused a problem in the FEP. This was enough to cause failure on one side more than the other. Cause was verified by switching the left and right knobs, thus shifting the failures to the opposite side of the print.</p>
<p>Just a thought.</p>
|
2020-05-31T19:55:13.720 | |calibration|lead-screw| | <p>My calibration at my printer is okay. When I try to move 10 mm, it's exactly 10 mm.</p>
<p>But I want to know what is my precision for Z-axis.</p>
<p>(<em>not posting the link of the product maybe it's not okay for the platform</em>)</p>
<p><strong>Spec for leadscrew:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Lead screw diameter: 8 mm</li>
<li>Screw pitch: 2 mm</li>
<li>Lead of thread: 8 mm</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwenH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jwenH.png" alt="calculator page"></a></p>
<p>My question; is my gear ratio 4:1 or 1:4? It's giving different results.</p>
| 13788 | Calculating gear ratio for leadscrew | <p>Your lead screw nut advances 8 mm every complete rotation of 200 full steps, so a single full step would change the height by 8/200 = 0.04 mm. This implies you need to set the layer height a multiple of 0.04 mm.</p>
<p>The gear ratio of 4:1 (a reduction) is required to get to your desired 0.01 mm layer height, but that is a very uncommon and a too small layer height to use.</p>
|
2020-06-01T16:21:41.207 | |marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|skr-mini-e3| | <p>After trying to solve this for the whole weekend I've run out of ideas.</p>
<p>I've fitted an BLTouch to my Ender-3 with an SKR mini e3 V2.0 board, firmware is Marlin 2.0. </p>
<p>My issue is the following:
when I do autohome (<code>G28</code>) it uses the Z-Probe (BLTouch) to home (this is expected).
I then set Z Probe offset to 0 (using <code>M851 Z0</code>) and move Z down until it the nozzle touches a piece of paper.<br>
I then set the Probe Z offset to whatever value Z is at (<code>M851 Z-4.10</code>), save the settings to EEPROM and restart the machine. When doing another <code>G28</code> and moving Z to 0 afterwards the distance is perfectly the same. This is repeatable.<br>
However when I do <code>G29</code> it measures the bed to be sitting around -1.9 mm, therefore moving Z to 0 will crash the nozzle to the bed. I can change my Probe Z offset have this fitting (<code>M851 Z-2.20</code>), however then the nozzle sits ~2 mm above the bed when doing another <code>G28</code> with "Bed Leveling" disabled. </p>
<p>All of this is perfectly repeatable, so I think my I've got something off in my Marlin configuration, but can't find anything wrong. </p>
<p>What I've tried so far:</p>
<ul>
<li>Setting the Z offset as default in config -> this yields the same result as saving it to EEPROM </li>
<li>Reflashing the firmware and resetting the EEPROM -> this didn't change anything </li>
<li>Connecting the probe as Z-Endstop and as Z-Probe -> after matching the configuration (setting/unsetting Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN) it just gave the same result. </li>
</ul>
<p>Did anyone encounter this issue before or can give me any idea how to fix this? Any help would be appreciated.</p>
<p>EDIT: I've just flashed the precompiled stock firmware from the BTT Github and it works. So im quite sure i've got something wrong in my config. But since I can't find the configuration.h for that .bin file, I can't realy compare both</p>
| 13793 | Different Probe Z offset for G28 and G29 | <p>I'm answering my own question here. </p>
<p>The Issue was that I set <code>Z_MIN_POS</code> to -2.0 I guess these 2 mm were subtracted from <code>G28</code> but not from <code>G29</code>.</p>
<p>I don't know wether this is expected behaviour but changing <code>Z_MIN_POS</code> back to 0 fixed the issue for me.</p>
|
2020-06-02T16:53:35.440 | |filament|pla|creality-ender-3|nozzle| | <p>I recently started swapping out my nozzle for different sizes. After a few times using a 0.4 mm, then 0.8 mm, then back to 0.4 mm, I now have this "clumping" going on when printing. The photos are of PLA but this happens with PETG also. Before I started changing nozzles, my prints were perfect.</p>
<p>The blue filament is Overture PLA, printing at 45 mm/s 210 °C (I lowered the temp to 200 °C and it's still happening).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Jkw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Jkw.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3zFM.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z3zFM.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<hr>
<p><strong>Some things I've noticed (which did not exist when my prints were good):</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><p>Melted filament on the rubber piece that covers the underside of the
extruder. Could something be backing up, melting, and then falling in
a clump on top of my print?</p></li>
<li><p>The bottom metal piece on the extruder is slightly loose. It's the flat piece attached to the main extruder body with two screws. I don't know what it's called, so I couldn't even search for how to tighten it.</p></li>
</ul>
<hr>
<h2>The questions:</h2>
<ol>
<li><strong>Does this "clumping' have an actual name?</strong></li>
<li><strong>What did I potentially do when swapping nozzles that could have caused this (if that's in fact how it started)?</strong></li>
<li><strong>How can I fix it?</strong></li>
</ol>
<hr>
<hr>
<p>Update:</p>
<p>The print stopped and I removed the shroud. My train of thought was spot on as I saw a pool of blue PLA inside the housing and on the nozzle. But I still don't know how this happened.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMlkS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JMlkS.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3P18b.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3P18b.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
| 13799 | Material "clumping" when printing | <p>From your initial photos, it looks like the bed level was too high, and there was thereby more material extruded than fit in the space. Even with an "identical" nozzle, the distances involved here are on an order of magnitude (less than 0.1 mm) that you're not going to get identical distance to the bed from one nozzle to another.</p>
<p>Further, as you found out following up, not having the nozzle tightened all the way will affect its height, and allow molten material to exit around the gap. It's always a problem not having your nozzle tightened all the way to make a good seal (I actually had nearly the same problem the first time I ever changed a nozzle), but having the bed too close probably made even more material ooze out at the gap due to backpressure.</p>
<p>Hopefully fixing these two things gets you back to printing right. It might be some work to clean out any material left in the hotend, especially if it worked its way around into the threads where the nozzle screws in. Be gentle if you have to clean that out further, since it's easy to strip the threads if you use abrasive tools, and then you'll be looking at replacing the heater block.</p>
|
2020-06-03T10:25:43.747 | |heated-bed|thermistor| | <p>opposed to what the title of this question might impose, I'm not new to 3d printing itself and have operated more than one printer for years, however, I feel dumb with installing the Thermistor on this new Heated Bed I got from RepRap.me: <a href="https://www.reprap.me/aluminum-heatbed-mk3-400x300.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Aluminum Heatbed MK3 400x300</a></p>
<p>The old Mk2b 214x214 Mendel/Prusa heated bed that I have been using for quite a while now has a through-hole in the center, where the thermistor-leads could be fed to from below.</p>
<p>On this new heated bed however, there is a lowering in the very center of the Heated Bed to place the Thermistor in, yet the pads to connect the thermistor leads to right beside it are level with the rest of the Heated bed.</p>
<p>I tried using just a tiny amount of SMD solderpaste and just soldering the thermistor leads as flat as possible to the pads, nevertheless, the glass plate on top is not laying flat and stable on the heated bed with the thermistor installed.</p>
<p>Any suggestions are greatly appreciated on how improve the thermistor-installation onto this heated bed!</p>
| 13801 | How is a Thermistor supposed to be installed between Heated Bed and the Glass? | <p>Try to use a silicone heat conductive pad between heater and glass, where you can make a hole for the sensor. It also helps to improve the contact between aluminium heater and glass, which otherwise may be inhomogeneous (as expected between two quite rigid materials).</p>
<p>They sell them in rolls and you can choose a 1 mm thick one or even 0.5 mm. They are "sticky" but they don't have glue, so you will be able to separate the glass from the pad, even if not so easily as it would be with a clip.</p>
|
2020-06-04T05:55:56.823 | |creality-ender-3|bed-leveling| | <p>I have an Ender 3 3D printer.</p>
<p>I am having an issue with leveling it, everything I do does not make any change.</p>
<p>The right side of the bed is higher than the left side, that will make me loosening the right side springs completely.
I’ve worked with this printer before and I know it’s should not be like this.</p>
<ol>
<li>The printer is sitting on a leveled surface.</li>
<li>I have 90° in each of every connection of the stands.</li>
<li>X-Axis is corresponding to the upper stand.</li>
<li>I’ve replaced the regular bed cover for 4 mm ״milky” glass.</li>
<li>I’ve replaced the springs to the stronger ones.</li>
<li>I’ve modify the location of the Z-switch to the lowest corner of the bed.</li>
</ol>
| 13807 | Ender 3, unable to level the heating bed | <p>When you do the homing and then do the leveling how much thread you have left that passes the tuning wheel? Verify this on all the four wheels. If you have no thread left then you may consider to lower the Z end-stop.
Check also the Y gantry to see if it is parallel to the base, and make adjustments if needed.</p>
|
2020-06-04T20:41:47.253 | |metal-printing| | <p>Could concentrated sunlight be used to build a metal 3D printer, sintering or melting metal powder?</p>
<p>Related question on physics stack exchange <a href="https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/143049/what-temperature-is-achieved-in-focus-point-by-5000-flat-1x1cm-mirrors-onto-a-sa">https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/143049/what-temperature-is-achieved-in-focus-point-by-5000-flat-1x1cm-mirrors-onto-a-sa</a></p>
| 13809 | Sunlight powered metal 3D printer | <p>Let's start with the obvious: this printer would need to be really big. Not because of a large print volume, but because it needs to collect a lot of sunlight or needs a really big focussing array. The linked question states that the array there, about 0.6 m² large, has roundabout 600 W of power to focus on that one point.</p>
<h1>Power draw needs</h1>
<h2>What powers are we dealing with?</h2>
<p>A typical laser cutter uses a laser tube that at least 20 W for thin material and up to 300 W for thicker material. But we need to weld steel, so we need to be roughly equivalent to a cutting laser for the same material. We are not talking mere hundreds of watts, we are talking an <a href="https://pentalaser.com/en/view/88.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">industrial 2000 to 20000 W</a> in a laser of less than a millimeter in diameter. Why do I say the later? Well, power need scales with the area, which scales with the square of the radius.</p>
<p>Let's use a ballpark, a nice round 10000 W Laser with a somewhat large 1 mm² crossection. We're talking about the ballpark of 100 Gigawatt per square meter.</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$L=P/A=\frac{10000\ \text W}{0,001\times 0.001\ \text m^2}=10^{10}\frac{\text W}{\text m^2}$</span></p>
<h2>Solar power harvester size</h2>
<p>Luckily, we don't need to illuminate a whole square meter, so we only need some 10 Kilowatts of sunlight for our application. But we need this number to calculate how much sunlight we need to <em>harvest</em> in our smelting machine.</p>
<p>At the stratosphere, Earth gets about 1400 W/m², and on a sunny day, about 1 kW/m² makes it to the surface, we call this the solar constant <span class="math-container">$S$</span>. Now, if we compare the ballparks, we get to quickly see the ballpark size of our machine:</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$P/S=A=\frac{10 \text{ kW}}{1 \frac {\text{kW}} {\text m^2}} = 10\ \text m^2$</span></p>
<p>10 square meters of harvesting area gets us the same power. Incidentally, this scales linearly with the item discussed in the linked question, as that one already uses square meters.</p>
<h2>Sizing down</h2>
<p>But 10 square meters of mirrors into a focal point and then lenses to a focal point is huge, can we make it smaller? And to that I must say <em>somewhat</em>. First of all, we could get our focal point smaller: We need to get 10 Gigawatt per square meter for our <span class="math-container">$L$</span>, but we can turn two screws here: what if we get from 1 mm² to only 0.1 mm²?</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$P=L*A=10^{10}*(0.0001\times 0.0001)\ \text W=100 W$</span></p>
<p>100 Watts focussed on 0.1 mm² is a sixth of the power that array can deliver, so totally feasible in terms of power, as long as you can achieve such a small focal point.</p>
<h1>Conclusion</h1>
<p>Yes, with a focussing array good enough or a mirror array large enough you could achieve the powers needed to melt metals on a spot focus. Note though, that you need to have a really good focus setup that creates pretty much a solar-powered laser, which means that such a machine will be extremely expensive due to the high precision machinery needed for that - and that this focusing aperture will be most likely the largest part of your machine. We're talking building-size scale. I'd be cheaper and easier to just put lots of solar panels onto the roof of the building you run a conventional metal 3D printer in.</p>
|
2020-06-06T13:17:22.703 | |prusa-i3|bed-leveling|octoprint| | <p>I have had issues with printing on my i3 MK3, especially when it came to the first layer. In March 2020, I have installed the Prusa Mesh Leveling plugin for Octoprint. With that plugin and a Nylock nut modification, I was able to reduce the bed variance from 0.6 mm down to 0.014 mm and prints were great. That took about 25 rounds of calibration and I didn't have any issues with the graphics not updating.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fo7Ag.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fo7Ag.png" alt="Mesh bed levelling on March 2020" /></a></p>
<p>Shortly after that, my filament sensor stopped working and I ordered a replacement, which I installed yesterday. But today, my prints are bad again, especially the first layer. So I thought I would simply run through the calibration and mesh bed leveling again.</p>
<p>First, I turned the screws in the wrong direction, so the result became worse and I needed several attempts until the results went into the correct direction. I'm currently at ~1.0 mm bed variance, which is very bad and I need to continue leveling the bed.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR588.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR588.png" alt="Bed variance currently" /></a></p>
<p>Now, the graphics does not update any longer. It always shows the same picture.</p>
<p>I also noticed some different behavior of the mesh bed levelling procedure. Usually, after running the mesh bed levelling, the printer needs some time (~5 secs) before it will react to other commands like a move on the Z axis. I used the following technique to find out when to reload the graphics:</p>
<ul>
<li>run mesh bed levelling</li>
<li>tell the printer to move up 10 mm on the Z axis</li>
<li>as soon as the print head moves up, it was possible to reload the graphics</li>
</ul>
<p>Now, the print head moves up immediately after the mesh bed levelling, without the ~5 secs delay and the graphics does not update.</p>
<p>I have already tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>click the "reload heat map" button</li>
<li>run mesh bed leveling again</li>
<li>restarting Octoprint</li>
<li>resetting the printer using the X button</li>
<li>looking for disk space via SSH</li>
</ul>
<p>.</p>
<pre><code>pi@octopi:~ $ df -h
Filesystem Size Used Avail Use% Mounted on
/dev/root 7.3G 1.9G 5.1G 27% /
devtmpfs 182M 0 182M 0% /dev
tmpfs 186M 0 186M 0% /dev/shm
tmpfs 186M 2.7M 183M 2% /run
tmpfs 5.0M 4.0K 5.0M 1% /run/lock
tmpfs 186M 0 186M 0% /sys/fs/cgroup
/dev/mmcblk0p1 42M 21M 21M 51% /boot
tmpfs 38M 0 38M 0% /run/user/1000
</code></pre>
<p>In the log file (<code>octoprint.log</code>) with output level set to <code>DEBUG</code>, I could see an entry:</p>
<pre><code>2020-06-06 12:19:52,261 - octoprint.plugins.PrusaMeshMap - INFO - Generating heatmap
2020-06-06 12:19:52,288 - py.warnings - WARNING -
/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/pyplot.py:522:
RuntimeWarning: More than 20 figures have been opened.
Figures created through the pyplot interface (`matplotlib.pyplot.figure`) are
retained until explicitly closed and may consume too much memory.
(To control this warning, see the rcParam `figure.max_open_warning`).
max_open_warning, RuntimeWarning)
</code></pre>
<p>As you can see, this was at 12:19. The last graphics I saw is from 12:37.</p>
<p>The logs also contain a message on 12:40:</p>
<pre><code>2020-06-06 12:40:39,262 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Error while processing hook PrusaMeshMap:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 2849, in _readline
ret = hook(self, ret)
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py", line 90, in mesh_level_check
self.mesh_level_generate()
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py", line 236, in mesh_level_generate
fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches="tight")
[...]
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/image.py", line 512, in _make_image
output = self.to_rgba(output, bytes=True, norm=False)
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/cm.py", line 259, in to_rgba
xx = (xx * 255).astype(np.uint8)
MemoryError
</code></pre>
<p>On 12:46 I rebooted the system</p>
<pre><code>2020-06-06 12:46:08,761 - octoprint.server.api.system - INFO - Performing command for core:reboot: sudo shutdown -r now
</code></pre>
<p>but of course that graphics is still missing and the last available graphics is the one from 12:37. So, after the reboot one needs to run the mesh bed leveling again.</p>
<p>Still, no luck...</p>
<p>OctoPrint version is 1.4.0, OctoPi version 0.15.0PE, Prusameshmap Plugin: 0.3.0. As far as I can tell, that's the latest version available.</p>
<p>What can I do to make mesh bed leveling work again?</p>
| 13821 | Mesh bed levelling does not update any more after MemoryError | <p>I have formatted the SD card and installed Octoprint from scratch. That's nasty, because I lost all the models I uploaded.</p>
<p>It seems to be a bug in <a href="https://github.com/PrusaOwners/OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap/blob/master/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py" rel="nofollow noreferrer">__init__.py</a> of OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap (archived Github repository).</p>
<p>That code saves the heatmap in this line:</p>
<pre><code>fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches="tight")
</code></pre>
<p>It uses Pyplot</p>
<pre><code>import matplotlib.pyplot as plt
</code></pre>
<p>and thus the code should probably use (untested!)</p>
<pre><code>plt.close(fig)
del fig
</code></pre>
<p>to free the resources.
Unfortunately it's not possible to file this as an issue because the Github repository is in archived mode and thus readonly.</p>
|
2020-06-07T21:32:37.180 | |print-material|tpu| | <p>I recently heard that the 3D printing lab at my college can do fused-deposition with ABS and PLA, but I would like to use TPU, for greater flexibility.</p>
<p>Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.</p>
| 13825 | Can any filament be used in with any 3D printer? | <blockquote>
<p>Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The question is not what the machine is <em>built for</em> but <em>how</em> it is built. Let's break stuff down some into why some filaments work better than others and the challenges with them.</p>
<h2>Temperature range</h2>
<p>The first obstacle is the temperature range of the printer. For example, if your printer's Extruder can't get over 220 °C, you can't print ABS. You need to make sure your printer can match your intended filament's temperature range.</p>
<p>TPU usually prints around between the same temperatures for PLA and ABS, so it should work from that range.</p>
<h2>Heated Bed</h2>
<p>Most Filaments work better with a heated bed, but some are almost impossible to be printed without. For TPU, a heated bed should be used but is not absolutely mandatory.</p>
<h2>Heated Chamber</h2>
<p>Some filaments can't be printed without a heated chamber, others like ABS highly benefit from it. TPU is ambivalent on this as far as I know.</p>
<h2>Extruder Setup</h2>
<p>There's basically 3 extruder setups. Pellet extruders are super rare, so we don't concern about them. The other two are Direct Drive and Bowden. In a Direct Drive, the extruder motor is right over the hotend, and pushes the filament directly into it. In a Bowden setup, the hotend and the extruder motor are connected via a Bowden tube. Both have benefits and drawbacks:</p>
<p>A Bowden makes for a lighter carriage, leading to faster printing speeds. A Direct Drive has much less trouble with elastic filaments and can do much better with retraction.</p>
<p>TPU is one of the filaments that works much better with Direct Drive.</p>
<h2>Other considerations</h2>
<p>Some Print services do print in machines set up for one filament type and that only, because it prevents cross-contamination of the nozzles, especially when a high-temperature print material remains in it when a low-temperature print comes next. Having for example a little bit of ABS left in a printer that runs PLA next can lead to very very extreme clogging.</p>
|
2020-06-08T08:32:49.793 | |diy-3d-printer|build-plate|lead-screw|drive-gear| | <p>I am building an HEVO printer with a 300x300 build plate and the project includes two T8 lead screws, lead 8 mm ("Tr8x8(p2)").</p>
<p>I read that such long lead may worsen backlash issues, so anti-backlash bolts are often used. They however increase the torque required to drive the build platform (quite important, since 8 mm lead involves using microstepping for fine adjustments) and they also reduce the usable vertical travel.</p>
<p>Since the build plate has already a significant weight (2020 frame, 2x 2 mm aluminium plates, 4 mm borosilicate bed, 8 linear bearings, heater), I wonder what is an approximate weight threshold to decide for using the anti-backlash or to skip it.</p>
| 13829 | When to use an anti-backlash bolt for a Z drive gear? | <p>First of all, let's look at the geometry: We have a static XY and changing Z on our build plate. This mitigates several problems we might have faced in a different setup, mainly that our lead screw has loads changing from one face to the other: all loads always go into <span class="math-container">$-Z$</span>, so the lower surface of the Trapezoidal threads in the brass nut of the bed carrier and the upper surface of the screw will always rub against each other.</p>
<p>However, let's talk about your lead. Tr8x8(p2) is not a Metric ISO-Trapezoidal pattern that is <a href="https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/iso-metric-trapezoidal-threads1.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">commonly recognized</a> - the only 8 mm diameter one in that standard is Tr8x1.5, very flat and very well suited for putting high loads onto it because there are several engagement surfaces in the nut and a low pitch angle - the thread only has about a 5° (+-1°)to the horizontal. Assuming a 15 mm nut, that's 10 times the projected engagement surface for a total area of about 214 mm².</p>
<p>A Tr8x8 is a very common oddball as in, it's not in the metric tables but available everywhere. It is <em>considerably</em> steeper, and with a 16 mm nut (for easier calculation) would result in 2 times the projected surfaceof a single engagement per thread. But that's only a projected area of 42.8 mm² per thread - about 1/5th of the Tr8x1.5, which correlates directly into that much less friction, because the friction is linear with the surface, which is linear to the length of the nut.</p>
<p>Taking an "intermediary" TR8x4 gets us about 1/2.5th of the Tr8.1.5's holding power per thread at the cost of half of the speed. From a physical standpoint, I'd take this one, also increasing the precision of the Z-movement by a factor of 2 in comparison to the Tr8x8.</p>
<h2>Tradeoffs</h2>
<p>Generally speaking, we have a tradeoff here:</p>
<ul>
<li>Pitch is proportional to the movement speed
<ul>
<li>double the pitch and you move twice as fast</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Pitch is anti-proportional to holding power/torque and Z-position accuracy
<ul>
<li>half the pitch gives twice the torque and the Z-position error is in average reduced by half</li>
</ul></li>
<li>holding power is proportional to the diameter of the rod and the number of threads engaging with the nut</li>
<li>Z-position accuracy is anti-proportional to the effective step-size of the motor
<ul>
<li>Z-position accuracy can be increased by using a reduction gearset: a 2:1 reduction gear halves the step-size and doubles the torque at the price of halving the movement speed. However, it can and will introduce slop and backlash.</li>
</ul></li>
</ul>
<p>Due to the geometry, the slop in the nut should not be an issue, as the relevant engagement surfaces never change. Further, the heavier the bed, the fewer problems you'll have with fast movements, as gravity will prevent the bed from going "airborne" at the end of travel towards the printhead. Travel away from the printhead, as it will do during printing, should never experience such.</p>
|
2020-06-09T04:49:32.070 | |creality-ender-3| | <p>I've been having a problem lately with some minor layer shifting with my Ender 3. It just started recently and I've made no changes to the printer since it was working fine. The layer shifting is always on the X-axis and it's not a large amount. Just enough to render my prints useless. The shift can happen in either direction on the X-axis. See attached photo.</p>
<p>Things I've tried:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Retensioning the belts</p>
</li>
<li><p>Printing at slower speeds</p>
</li>
<li><p>Checking all bed connections to make sure the bed is solid</p>
</li>
<li><p>Reducing the jerk setting</p>
</li>
<li><p>Activating Z-hop</p>
</li>
<li><p>Reducing acceleration</p>
</li>
<li><p>Increased retraction.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>The problem occurs on multiple STL files that used to work fine.</p>
<p>Any help would be appreciated</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/246qT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a 3D printed model with random layer shifts along the X axis"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/246qT.png" alt="Photo of a 3D printed model with random layer shifts along the X axis" title="Photo of a 3D printed model with random layer shifts along the X axis" /></a></p>
| 13836 | Ender 3 X-axis layer shifting | <p>OK I found the answer. I removed the extruder cover and found that the 2 screws attaching the extruder assembly were loose. A very simple fix to a very irritating problem.</p>
|
2020-06-11T03:37:59.430 | |flsun| | <p>If I have an issue with my FLSUN printer how can I contact customer support?</p>
| 13849 | How can I contact FLSUN support? | <p>They have a webpage by now <a href="http://www.flsun3d.com" rel="noreferrer">www.flsun3d.com</a></p>
|
2020-06-11T15:06:22.703 | |pla|quality|surface|flashforge-finder| | <p>I'm newbie at this stackexchange and I have a "FlashForge Finder"; lately there are many problems with the horizontal surfaces quality (Bottom and Top at the same time).</p>
<p>As some issue guides suggests, I changed: number of solid layers, % of filling and extrusion multiplier; I use "Flashprint", so some concepts must be translated from Cura in the options menu.</p>
<p>P.S: All filaments are PLA.</p>
<p>Without any change:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kN9K4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kN9K4.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWw31.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWw31.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>After all changes (the "best")
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbE13.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbE13.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>My settings for last black disk:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2nkp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2nkp.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GzNN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GzNN.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qw0yc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qw0yc.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/psACU.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/psACU.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7UOy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7UOy.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcdnR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcdnR.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbN1e.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbN1e.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pSYX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pSYX.png" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyYqp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyYqp.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
| 13856 | Bad quality at horizontal faces | <p>Finally, I solved all faillures today.</p>
<p>-When the bed is too close from the hotend:</p>
<p>I cheat the machine with a cutter patterns board over the bed at the first extruder calibration; the distance increases several times and then You can do it shorter.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YiAKm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YiAKm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>-The another half part of bad quality [low maintenance of the hotend]:</p>
<p>As a good newbie, I didn't know the periods of maintenance and the hotend had much plastic waste the PTFE tube welded and burned at internal, so the only option was to replace it for another same or to upgrade to "All Metal"; I chosen to upgrade with the replacement and I'll more maintenance to this zone.
<div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/G04dj9DcJUI?start=0"></iframe>
</div></div>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWcPn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWcPn.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>First attempt of trial piece:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbPfY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbPfY.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
...PANIC!</p>
<p>But then and FINALLY!
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8ri1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8ri1.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a>
Almost all correct, I can continue with my printings.</p>
<p>THANKS SO MUCH TO ALL, for your apportations and patience.</p>
|
2020-06-12T19:33:21.343 | |creality-ender-3|bltouch|th3d| | <p>I installed TH3D to my stock mainboard via <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TTuisjmbmY&list=WL&index=47&t=0s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this guide</a>, but BLTouch does not work properly. </p>
<p>It does not check all 9 points before point it just go middle then check z then start printing. BLTouch normally needs to check all 9 points before printing or with autobedleveling but somehow mine do not work like this.</p>
| 13864 | BLTouch with TH3D Ender 3 pro | <p>After setting up the BLTouch in firmware, you need to activate the leveling function for every print by inserting the leveling G-code <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe" rel="nofollow noreferrer">'G29'</a> in the start G-code script of your slicer. The code should be placed directly after command <code>G28</code>.</p>
<p>Note that you can test the working of the sensor from the printer display: sensor can be deployed, stowed, reset and tested.</p>
<p>An alternative is to use the <code>G29</code> and <code>M500</code> command once in a while (for beds that don't change, don't get handled by excessive force and/or are operated at the same temperature) or store the shape of the bed through the display interface and put the command <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M420 S1</code></a> in your start G-code instead.</p>
|
2020-06-12T22:30:18.707 | |print-material|filament-choice|color| | <p>I find that white filaments are quite translucent and printing 5 layers of white filament onto 2 layers of black filament (at 0.2 mm layers, the white layers being 100% infilled and the underlying black layer covering about 85% of the whole area) produces a slightly grey color on the top.</p>
<p>Is that a limitation of the white colour (or the actual material used)?</p>
<p>Are there materials, that address this issue to some extent?</p>
<p>Adjusting layer thickness while keeping the overall height won't change things, right?</p>
| 13865 | Are there white filaments, that are not so translucent? | <p>PLA filaments are pretty transparent in their pure state. Other filaments, especially fiber-filled ones, are opaque in nature. But in the end, the color is determined a lot by the colorful pigments added and the amount of pigments directly correlates to the opacity. The more pigment is added, the more opaque it becomes. There are several screws for the color though: Ammount and type of pigments. For transparent filaments.</p>
<p>Not all pigments are the same. For example, white greatly differs between different brands. For example, my second-favorite brand's white is a little more in the "cream" color range, the filament sample that came with my TronXY X1 was very satin gloss and the first spool I ordered was a very white-opaque white. This all is because of the type of pigment used and the amount. </p>
<p>How can you tell the amount? From the print properties and the looks of a printed filament: a filament that is very laden with pigments tends to print hotter than one that has few to none, but it also blocks light much better. I have experienced up to 20 °C between a transparent and the very heavily pigment laden white filament for the sweetspot. The same white filament was completely opaque after 1.6 mm in walls but most prints are!</p>
<p>Remember: walls are generally thicker than roofs. If you really need to make the white covering fully, you'll need to make more white thickness, but thinner layers can help a slight bit as the included air in each layer helps a little.</p>
|
2020-06-13T16:09:58.300 | |marlin|creality-ender-3|firmware|th3d| | <p>I installed the TH3D firmware to my Ender 3 Pro yesterday and today I am trying to configure the extruder rate because I am not using the stock extruder on my printer but have swapped in a BMG extruder. I edited these values and upload it to my board </p>
<pre><code>#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS
//#define REVERSE_E_MOTOR_DIRECTION
#define CUSTOM_ESTEPS_VALUE 415
</code></pre>
<p>But these values do not change when I start to print something and because of that I need to edit it manually by going in to tune menu and editing flow to 415. How can I fix this issue?</p>
| 13874 | Cannot configure default E step for extruder on TH3D | <h2>Initializing</h2>
<p>After changing your firmware, you always need to overwrite the old values in the SRAM and EEPROM with those from the Firmware. Which you do with <strong><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11440/8884"><code>M502 & M500</code></a></strong>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Installing firmware does not by itself alter the EEPROM, so these settings needed to be <em>seeded into</em> SRAM via <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M502.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M502</code></a> and then <em>saved</em> into EEPROM via <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M500</code></a>.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You could also run a G-code that has only these two lines:</p>
<pre><code>M502
M500
</code></pre>
<h2>Altering the EEPROM</h2>
<h3>Via command</h3>
<p>Alternatively, you could access the printer via a <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10573/8884">terminal</a> and send the command <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M92 E415</code></a> to overwrite the SRAM directly, then <code>M500</code> to save the new setting to EEPROM. The associated G-code that only alters the E-steps/mm would read</p>
<pre><code>M92 E415
M500
</code></pre>
<h3>Via Software</h3>
<p>Or you use a terminal that supports direct alteration of the EEPROM, like Repetier Host.</p>
|
2020-06-14T15:26:02.713 | |marlin|bed-leveling|homing| | <p>I installed a BLTouch bed leveling probe on my printer which uses Marlin 2.0.5.3.</p>
<p>Now the printer seems to be of two minds when it comes to finding the origin. Homing XY moves to the lower left as it always has, but homing Z moves not only to Z=0, but also to the center of the build plate. The printer knows this is (100,100,0) and is not mistakenly thinking it is (0,0,0).</p>
<p>This causes some issues such as now the nozzle wipe at the beginning of a print happens right in the center of where the print is supposed to be.</p>
<p>Is this expected behavior?</p>
| 13880 | Installed bed leveling probe, now Z homing moves to center | <p>I had the same problem, solved it by inserting</p>
<pre><code>// Move X and Y to 0 after homing
process_subcommands_now_P("G1 X0 Y0 F5000");
</code></pre>
<p>at the end of <code>G28.cpp</code>, just before <code>ui.refresh();</code></p>
<p>This moves the print head to X0, Y0 and leaves Z untouched after the homing procedure. This way any oozing that might happen while the extruder heats up will be outside of the bed.</p>
|
2020-06-15T13:58:45.843 | |health|medical| | <p>If the right filament material is available, it seems practical for dentist to 3D print temporary crowns. Multiple images of the tooth to crown could be used for a 3D scan. Custom software or settings would probably make the software finish in less time. A 3D-printed temporary crown would probably take less work to get it to fit properly. Anyone know of development to do this? This probably would take a series of clinical trials to get FDA approval.</p>
| 13886 | Printing dental temporary crowns | <p>You ask about "filament", so I assume you expect fused-filament technologies. These are however not accurate enough, besides being prone to gaps and crevices which are problematic in crowns. The smallest viable nozzle, 0.2 mm, is still too rough for that.</p>
<p>Dental 3D printers need to be very accurate, so the most common technologies used are stereolithography (SLA) and digital light processing (DLP).</p>
<p>Crowns can be made using resin printing. It is possible to use also CNC machining of porcelain, but it's not part of 3D printing.</p>
<p>More info can be found on <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/dental-3d-printing-guide/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/2/dental-3d-printing-guide/</a></p>
|
2020-06-17T03:13:22.580 | |ultimaker-cura|slicing|ultimaker-2| | <p>I would like to 3D print a small thin tub/mold for an epoxy resin. I have tubings inserted into holes, and I need to fix these tubings securely with epoxy (see picture below). The space is very limited, and the whole assembly must have a smallest possible footprint, so I have to confine the epoxy from spreading to the sides - that's why I need a tub. The tub itself must have as thin walls as possibly for the same reason.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M2OH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M2OH.png" alt="CAD model"></a></p>
<p><strong>The wall thickness is constant, so theoretically the nozzle could just make one single loop to print a layer, and then move to the next one. Kinda a spiral motion</strong>. It seems to be so simple! How do I get the slicer (I use Ultimaker 2 with 0.4 mm nozzle, CoPA material, and slice in Cura 4.6.1) to produce single outline walls?</p>
<p>I tried so many things, but I couldn't get this.</p>
<p>With the default settings for 0.2 mm layer a 0.4 mm wall (or thinner) will not be printed at all (left - 0.35 mm wall, middle - 0.4 mm, right - 0.45 mm):
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/accPb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/accPb.png" alt="Default settings"></a></p>
<p>Occasionally even the 0.45 mm-thick wall gets excluded from the print, which is really bizarre:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/adSYJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/adSYJ.png" alt="absent walls"></a></p>
<p>If I make the wall thicker, then the slicer tries to pack two discontinued lines next to each other, which is even worse. Cura has an option 'print thin walls', but this results in jerky, discontinued tracks.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbDBJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbDBJ.png" alt="discontinued tracks"></a></p>
<p>At the moment I print 0.45 mm walls with the 'print thin walls' option turned on, this is the closest to what I need that I could find so far. </p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hodsm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hodsm.png" alt="additional nozzle movements"></a></p>
<p>This may look fine in Cura, but the result is pretty ugly due to the additional nozzle movements... I really don't understand why the printer has to do them. It prints the outline, then jumps to the 'corner' and deposits a blob there. I can carefully remove these blobs with a scalpel, but come on, this is a disposable part and I need a ton of these!!!</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSbBG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSbBG.png" alt="printing results with blobs"></a></p>
<p>If that helps, here is a <a href="https://trello-attachments.s3.amazonaws.com/5b6b2534b398ed67842b5cf7/5edeb664103bb57c7dd030fc/b6a7558c09ae986bb5e5e4842f01ab07/short_450um.stl" rel="nofollow noreferrer">link to a sample STL file with 450 μm walls</a>.</p>
| 13897 | How to get a quality print of a thin single-walled shell? | <p>You don't need to use vase mode. But vase mode will work.</p>
<p>I'm not familiar with Cura, I use PrusaSlicer, but I'm sure there are equivalent settings.</p>
<p>What you want to do is model the part in two pieces. The first piece will be the same height as the base. The second piece will be the top half. It can all be one model, but it helps to think of it as two.</p>
<p>In the bottom part, add your hole, and print it with however many solid layers as is required to make the base thickness.</p>
<p>For the top part, make it solid, and print it with 1 perimeter and 0 % infill and 0 top and bottom layers. You can decide the wall thickness by tweaking the extrusion width.</p>
<p>If you want to make the part perfect, you can size the bottom hole by taking the dimensions of the upper portion and subtracting whatever extrusion width you will use from the surfaces.</p>
<p>You can print as many of these as you want as close together as you can because it isn't using vase mode.</p>
|
2020-06-19T13:26:03.193 | |slicing|speed| | <p>Is there a slicer that can set the print speed for each layer as a function of the layer area? Larger areas give the layer a longer time to cool off before the next print layer. When the layer areas start to get small (usually at toward the end of a print if so) the layer may need a slower speed to cool off.</p>
| 13909 | Is there a slicer that can set the print speed for each layer as a function of the layer area? | <p>Most slicers have a feature in their cooling settings to "slow down if layer print time is below xxx".</p>
<p>Setting this to a higher value should ensure that small / short layers aren't printed too fast, so that cooling is still reliable.</p>
<p>Shorter layers are slowed down linearly to reach the specified minimum time - unless a "minimum print speed" is also set.</p>
|
2020-06-21T09:35:34.383 | |prusa-i3|troubleshooting|prusaslicer| | <p>I have a model of an eye that I custom made in <strong>Blender 2.83</strong> that when printed only creates <strong>roughness</strong> on the printed object near where I had the supports. <strong>The supports are not the cause of the roughness</strong> (at least not completely) since the supports don't even touch the parts of the print where the majority of the roughness and bumps are (<strong>refer to my photos</strong> of the print)</p>
<p><strong>The roughness is only near the bottom part of the sphere as it prints upwards (refer to photos)</strong></p>
<p>What I'm looking for is a technique or any suggestions for printing this without the roughness so it's smooth like in the rest of the print. I'm also curious <em>what</em> is causing the roughness.</p>
<hr />
<p><strong>Eye Model in Blender</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNlOr.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNlOr.gif" alt="Eye model in blender" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Blender Scale Ratio:</strong> 0.001</p>
<p><strong>Blender Units:</strong> mm</p>
<hr />
<p><strong>Eye Model in Prusa Slicer</strong></p>
<p>Layer Gif</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pluI.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pluI.gif" alt="Eye Model in Prusa Slicer" /></a></p>
<p>Prusa Slicer Main Settings (Higher Res)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gEV0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gEV0.jpg" alt="Prusa Slicer Main Settings (Higher Res)" /></a></p>
<p>Variable Layer Heights For Smoothness</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggRpk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggRpk.png" alt="Variable Layer Heights For Smoothness" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p><strong>Eye Model Prints Photos</strong></p>
<p>Eye Model Small Version 3D Print (Notice it's <strong>smooth</strong> on top of print)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BA6tY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BA6tY.jpg" alt="Eye Model Small Version 3D Print" /></a></p>
<p>Eye Model Small Version 3D Print <strong>Trouble Area</strong></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8pa6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8pa6.jpg" alt="Eye Model Small Version 3D Print Trouble Area" /></a></p>
<p>Eye Model Small & Large Version With Support (Notice <strong>roughness</strong> on the sphere)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4lXuB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4lXuB.jpg" alt="Eye Model Small & Large Version With Support" /></a></p>
<p>Example of Support Used On Small Print</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHuyp.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHuyp.jpg" alt="Example of Support Used On Small Print" /></a></p>
<p>Smooth on inside of print</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKor2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKor2.jpg" alt="Smooth on Inside" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p><strong>--------- Print Details ---------</strong></p>
<p><strong>Printer:</strong> Prusa i3 MK3s</p>
<p><strong>Filament:</strong> PLA Galaxy Silver (Prusa Reserach)</p>
<p><strong>Slicer Software:</strong> Prusa Slicer</p>
<p><strong>Print Temperature First Layer</strong>: 205 degrees</p>
<p><strong>Print Temperature Other Layers</strong>: 190 degrees</p>
<p><strong>Notes:</strong> The suggested temperature for the filament is 205-215, I've adjusted after careful calibration given my environment to a lower temperature to reduce stringing. I created a tower at different temperatures and discovered 190 was the perfect setting to reduce stringing in my case with this material. Refer to my screenshot below. <strong>I do not think temperature has anything to do with this since the print is smooth inside and near the top without any issues</strong>.</p>
<p><strong>Temperature Tower Test For Filament Photo</strong>:</p>
<p>(Note stringing in the cone test areas at 225 to 205)</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4i87u.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4i87u.jpg" alt="Temperature Tower" /></a></p>
<hr />
<p>--------- <strong>Prusa Slicer Settings Photos</strong> ---------</p>
<p>Filament settings</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH8q3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH8q3.png" alt="filament settings" /></a></p>
<p>Extruder Settings</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/90NXg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/90NXg.png" alt="extruder settings" /></a></p>
<p>Support Settings</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaBv4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaBv4.png" alt="Support Settings" /></a></p>
| 13915 | 3D Printed Sphere, How to Remove Roughness | <p>I’ve noticed the best way to get it smooth without support is to make the printer print the inner parts of the model first. That way it gives the hanging layer something to hold on to. I turn my window ac unit up to high aim it at the printer so it cools the filament quickly. Next you’re going to want to mess around with the extruder heat. Try to get it as low as possible but watch out for the good gooey bad gooey range. If the first overhanging layer is close to the bed turn the bed heat off. Then tinker with the flow try to get it low but not super low I go as low as 70 <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nCLO.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></p>
|
2020-06-23T13:38:58.787 | |pla|support-structures|petg|support-material| | <p>Printing supports, either complete, or partially from PVA have not always resulted in successful prints according to my experience with the filament (used in a dual extruder Ultimaker 3 extended). But, when it works well, the surface finish is perfect as there is no gap between the PVA and PLA.</p>
<p>From my experience with PVA, I conclude it is prone to clog, the filament is very hygroscopic, resulting in popping sounds when printing if too moist which most probably also impacts on clogging. The clogs lead to failed support structures as the extruder grinds through the filament and as such failed prints.</p>
<p>I was wondering if PETG can be used for supports or for the interface layer of supports for printing supports for PLA prints? For example:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Non scaffolding support structure"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png" alt="Non scaffolding support structure" title="Non scaffolding support structure" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Non scaffolding support structure in material color"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png" alt="Non scaffolding support structure in material color" title="Non scaffolding support structure in material color" /></a></p>
<p>This is a sliced view of a print in line color (left or top on small screens) and material color (right or bottom on small screens); black PLA and cream colored PETG. This print contains a larger gap that needs support. Can you make the support from PETG, either the support as a whole or just the top interface.</p>
<ul>
<li>How does PLA-PETG or PETG-PLA bond or stick considering the 2 different print temperatures?</li>
<li>What are the concerns using a single nozzle?</li>
</ul>
| 13931 | Can PETG be used as support material for PLA? | <p>PETG works as support material for PLA, see video</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3lZlyzYJd-I?start=12"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>In theory, PLA printed on top of PETG will be fine because PETG softens and gets sticky at higher temperatures.</p>
<p>Printing PETG support on top of PLA may cause remelting of PLA, but if PETG is kept quite cold (220 °C) the issue will likely be minor. As shown in the video, it works.</p>
<p>PLA/PETG may still be better than using PLA/PLA because of this difference in extrusion temperatures that, for example in bridges where PLA is printed on top of PETG support, should result in very easily removable supports.</p>
<p>The type of supports used should be tested: tree supports could minimize the contact surface between the two and thus minimize marring by the hotter PETG being deposited onto the PLA at the expense of more PETG and normal supports could be used on a limited surface, so they can be removed easily. If the two materials really don't adhere much to each other, you may even be able to fake dissolvable supports, which increase the contact surface but provide a far better finish for bridges and bottom surfaces.</p>
<p>Using a single nozzle may require experimentation. In my experience, I print PLA at 230 °C so it wouldn't be an issue, and 220 °C would also work, but if PLA is printed cold, below 215 °C, you may need to heat/cool the nozzle. In any case, switching filament (especially PETG -> PLA) requires quite some filament to be discarded, so there is time for the heating. It is however to be kept in mind that cleaning of the nozzle between PLA and PETG (or in fact after any material swap) is difficult: some residue can remain in small gaps or low flow areas of the hotend and will be blended into the stream for quite some time after the swap, resulting in hybrid materials of unknown properties.<sup>1</sup></p>
<p>As I said, experimentation is needed for this kind of task: my experience, with a 2012-era hot end, may not even be representative of the behaviour of modern hot ends.</p>
<hr />
<p><sup>1</sup> - this effect is easily noticeable even with similar materials if switching from dark to light color filament, especially if not doing a cold pull to remove most of the material from the melt zone.</p>
|
2020-06-23T17:10:58.707 | |creality-ender-3|firmware| | <p>I have a recently purchased Ender 3 Pro, and it may well already have a bootloader on it. I don't have the various adapters to flash one yet.</p>
<p>Is it destructive to try flashing over USB without the bootloader? Does it fail in a non destructive way?</p>
<p>I have watch some tutorials which claim that it's fine to just try it, but I'd like to be more sure about that.</p>
| 13933 | Will I brick my Ender 3 if I try flashing without a bootloader? | <p>My understanding is that if there is no bootloader, you can't flash over USB; you need an ISP programmer attached to the board. So if you're able to flash over USB, that means there is a bootloader, and updating via the bootloader should leave the bootloader in place and just overwrite the rest of the firmware. I'm not sure how strongly this is enforced, though, so you may want to wait for supporting comments/answers from others.</p>
<p>Of course it's always possible to damage your printer in ways that require replacement of the board or at least some parts on it if you flash <em>bad firmware</em>, so you need to be cautious anyway.</p>
|
2020-06-24T01:37:39.060 | |3d-design|print-material| | <p>I've seen there are several different types of source material for 3D printing. My question is: Which of those would hold up under regular Loctite superglue or plastic model glue?</p>
<p>I'm asking because I want to try 3D printing, and I have a project in mind. But I don't want to spend too much, so I'm looking to get a small 3D printer. I want to make a clock, and I can design the step down gears to make in a small printer, but I'd need a large base for so many smaller gears. I want to print pieces of the base, and superglue them together.</p>
| 13937 | 3D printing source material and superglue | <p>CA glue works on PLA, especially if you're gluing parts that fit together rather than small surfaces that just touch, but I'd encourage you to consider alternatives just because there are so many more ways to attach things when you have freedom to design the parts, and non-glue approaches admit disassembly, repair, etc.</p>
<p>Some possibilities include:</p>
<ul>
<li>snap fits</li>
<li>parts sliding into grooves</li>
<li>threaded holes and bolts</li>
<li>threaded interfaces.</li>
</ul>
|
2020-06-24T10:22:15.940 | |pla|creality-ender-3|calibration|glass-bed| | <p>I'm having an issue where prints with narrow tolerance come out fused. This makes it pretty much impossible to print anything with narrow parts. It seems to be mostly (maybe only) an issue in the bottom skin layers. Once it gets through those, the rest of the print goes smoothly and tight tolerances are not a problem.</p>
<p>Here's an example where I've tried to print some hinges:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrtaB.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrtaB.jpg" alt="First three layers" /></a></p>
<p>It's a test print where each hinge has a different tolerance, so the left and right are expected to look different. Below each real image is a preview layer from Cura showing how it's supposed to look.</p>
<p>The first layer appears OK. The second layer looks a little messy, and the gap between inner and outer circles has shrunk. By the third layer the hinge on the right is completely fused.</p>
<p>The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed (flat glass, no special surface), BLTouch, and Marlin 1.1.9. The slicer is Cura 4.6.1, and for this test print I used the default for "Super Quality - 0.12 mm" at 200 °C and 60 °C bed with no changes. The filament is Mika3D PLA.</p>
<p>Some things I've tried to fix this:</p>
<ul>
<li>Calibrated e-steps (currently set at 95.88) - no noticeable difference</li>
<li>Calibrated flow rate (got 97.859 % but returned to 100 % for this test) - no noticeable difference</li>
<li>Varying temperatures from 190 to 230 °C by 5 °C increments - no improvement from 200 °C</li>
<li>Set "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" to -0.1 mm, -0.4 mm, and -1.0 mm in Cura. - no improvement.</li>
<li>Set "Initial Layer Flow" to 90 %. - no improvement.</li>
<li>Obsessively leveled and re-leveled the bed. - no improvement.</li>
<li>Moved the Z-offset up and down to get more or less squish on the first layer - no improvement.</li>
<li>Tried various brands and colors of PLA - problem is consistent.</li>
<li>Reduced build plate temperature to 45 °C after initial layer - no improvement.</li>
</ul>
<p>What else is there to check?</p>
<p><strong>Edit 2020-06-26:</strong></p>
<p>At <code>R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE</code>'s suggestion I returned the e-steps to default (93), re-leveled the bed, and adjusted the z-offset tighter. I made 10 attempts with varying z-offsets, and here's the best one:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRrSW.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRrSW.jpg" alt="First three layers with e-steps at 93" /></a></p>
<p>The first layer looks better! But the second and third layers are just as bad as before, in fact maybe worse. The circle on the right completely fused on only the second layer. And the top surface is just as ripple-ey and messed up as before.</p>
<p>Here's a closeup of the fourth layer to show how bad it is:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7MvW.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7MvW.jpg" alt="Fourth layer" /></a></p>
<p>So although the re-calibrated e-steps may have been <em>a</em> problem, that clearly wasn't the only problem. What else should I be looking at here?</p>
<p><strong>Edit 2020-06-27:</strong></p>
<p>At <code>Davo</code>'s suggestion I double-checked all my slicer settings. Flow is set to 100% everywhere, wall thickness is 0.8 mm for two walls (so 0.4 mm each), and nozzle diameter is correct at 0.4 mm.</p>
<p>At <code>R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE</code>s suggestion I double-checked my filament diameter. It is set to 1.75 mm. On the actual filament, my digital caliper measures 1.74 to 1.76, within the expected tolerance. So that doesn't appear to be the issue.</p>
<p>At <code>0scar♦</code>s suggestion I tried a print with 0.2 mm layer height. Here's the first layer:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFOUo.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFOUo.jpg" alt="0.2 mm layer height, first layer" /></a>
Looks like the same over-extrusion.</p>
<p>Then I tried reducing the flow multiplier to 90% (for both "flow" and "initial layer flow") and printing at 0.2 mm layer height:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oloh.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oloh.jpg" alt="90% flow with 0.2 mm layer height" /></a>
Better, but it <em>still</em> looks over-extruded!</p>
<p>I don't know what else to try.</p>
| 13940 | Expansion in bottom skin after first layer | <p>I had the same problem with my Ender-3 V2.</p>
<p>You need to check if the feeder bracket is square like explained in <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnzNd_FIMKY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this YouTube</a></p>
<p>If that is not the problem maybe you need a custom bracket to change the spacing between the Z-motor and the frame like <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699747" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> or <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723087" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a></p>
<p>I have improved mine a lot using:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This Z-motor mount</a></li>
<li>Using <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Elmer%E2%80%99s+Disappearing+Purple+Glue+Stick" rel="nofollow noreferrer">glue stick</a> instead of squeezing the first layer</li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDm9OziZ6dY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Leveling the bed using a feeler gauge</a> instead of a piece of paper</li>
<li>Initial fan speed 100 %, all layers the same</li>
<li>Same flow rate, line width, line height on all layers</li>
<li>Build plate 40 °C, nozzle 205 °C</li>
<li>Seam Corner Preference: Hide or Expose Seam</li>
</ul>
|
2020-06-24T18:12:01.233 | |print-quality|creality-ender-3|petg|y-axis| | <p>I have a model that's placed on the bed exactly like on this picture:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDTcF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDTcF.png" alt="sample model placement" /></a></p>
<p>I have constant quality degradation as the bed moves down to print in the upper left corner <strong>(1)</strong>.</p>
<p>Everything is fine on the X <strong>(2)-(3)</strong> side. It does not have any visible artifacts. All hell goes along the <strong>(1)-(3)</strong> curve:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/EvgyKFi.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/EvgyKFi.png" alt="hell lines" /></a></p>
<p>Top left corner <strong>(1)</strong>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPGTi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPGTi.jpg" alt="top left corner" /></a></p>
<p>On the way from <strong>(1)</strong> to <strong>(2)</strong> lines seem to disappear almost completely.</p>
<p>I used Cura slicer and these printing settings:</p>
<ul>
<li>stock ender firmware</li>
<li>0.2 mm layer height</li>
<li>supports</li>
<li>2 bottom & top layers</li>
<li>PETG 235 °C nozzle</li>
<li>80 °C bed</li>
<li>walls x2</li>
<li>10 % infill gyroid</li>
<li>ironing</li>
<li>seam smart hiding</li>
<li>50 mm/s print speed</li>
<li>500 / 50 mm/s^2 acceleration / jerks</li>
</ul>
<p>It looks like a mechanical issue, so I tried tightening/untightening bed bolts. It didn't help. They are a little bit tight, but not too much. The bed does not seem to be wobbling. Also, I tried the bed for wobbling in its top/bottom position. It looks fine along all the way.</p>
<p>What should I try next?</p>
<p>Extruder steps/mm are tweaked for this filament. Extruder produces exactly 97 mm of 100 mm of filament.</p>
<h3>UPD</h3>
<p>I decided to change my software/hardware settings step by step. This time I changed only my software settings to these:</p>
<ul>
<li>Speed: 30 mm/s</li>
<li>Acceleration: 3000 mm/s^2</li>
<li>Retract: 4 mm</li>
<li>Combing: Not in Skin (previous print had the same value)</li>
<li>Overhanging wall speed 100% (same as the previous print)</li>
</ul>
<p>Corners have become much sharper and there is a lot less of bulging on the arc.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpPQU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpPQU.jpg" alt="arc" /></a></p>
<p>However, by X-axis <strong>(2) - (3)</strong> I see more artifacts:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh7MP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh7MP.jpg" alt="x-axis bottom" /></a></p>
<p>Y-axis has become better:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMuZ5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMuZ5.jpg" alt="y-axis bottom" /></a></p>
<p>Currently, I don't have any visible or sensible bed / X play. I tuned rollers to have enough tension not to slip if rotate them separately. So, if I rotate the roller, it moves the whole bed or X carriage. I'll try increasing the tension a little bit and then I'll share the result.</p>
<h3>UPD2</h3>
<p>I've made belts a little bit tighter and decided to print a new model. The layer height is 0.3 mm. Also, I tried increasing temperature up to <strong>240 °C</strong> and changed the stock vent with a circular vent. The wall count is 50 to make the model solid. Coasting is off.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UgZQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UgZQ.jpg" alt="x-axis" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZnsB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZnsB.jpg" alt="x-axis curve" /></a></p>
<p>Now all artifacts are along the X-axis. There are many fewer of them at (1) than at (2). The model is a doorstep. On the build plate it's placed like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYrF9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYrF9.jpg" alt="doorstep build plate placement" /></a></p>
<p>Now I think the problem has nothing to do with X/Y play and these two factors can be eliminated. I'll revert belt tensions back to their previous values and decrease the printing temperature down to 225-230 °C.</p>
<p>PS. USBASP is still in customs, so I'm doing all this on the stock firmware.</p>
<h3>UPD3</h3>
<p>I have finally figured out what was wrong. It was insufficient Z-belt tension on both sides. A close look at a DSLR camera shot gave me a clue: there was almost always a straight segment followed by a visible additional step down between layers.</p>
<p>There are still some artifacts but everything looks relatively tolerable now.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynYBN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynYBN.jpg" alt="after z-axis has been fixed" /></a></p>
<p>Thanks to all of you guys!</p>
| 13945 | Visible lines along Y-axis on Ender 3 Pro | <p>There are a lot of different print quality problems going on here, but the biggest I see is the bulging and sagging at the corners of each layer. This is a result of extrusion not being a zero-delay linear function of extruder motor motion, but subject to compression/pressure. This causes excess extrusion when printing slows down (approaching and rounding a corner) and underextrusion just after speeding back up. There are several possible fixes:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Upgrade to firmware with <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Linear Advance</a> and calibrate it for your material. I find PETG needs about K=1.4 on an Ender 3.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Increase your acceleration limits (up to 3000 mm/s² should be ok for Ender 3) so that far less time is spent moving slow. You need to adjust the per-axis limits in config menu, not just the single acceleration setting in your slicer.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Decrease your print speed so that there's less difference in cornering speed and nominal speed (50 mm/s is too high for PETG anyway in my experience; you'll get underextrusion and bad layer bonding).</p>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Also make sure you don't have your slicer set to slowdown on overhangs, as it makes this phenomenon <strong>far</strong> worse.</p>
<p>The other surface artifacts I'm less sure about, and you should probably look for other answers about resolving them. Trish is right that the lines look like a retraction problem - material intended to be there got lost somewhere else. It's probably due to combing (skipping retraction inside the model and letting material ooze out there). I would set combing to "not in skin" and set the max combing distance to something very small (around or slightly less than 1 mm) and see if that fixes the problem. Combing is especially bad with PETG in my experience.</p>
|
2020-06-27T15:53:20.677 | |stepper-driver|stepper|x-axis|fans|tronxy-x5| | <p>This is regarding the circuit of my 3D printer Tronxy X5SA's stepper motor for X axis.</p>
<p><strong>I had an observation:</strong> It has a cooling fan (40X10 24V) which is having issues lately - it stops working sometimes, and when pushed to rotate, spins back.</p>
<p><strong>Problem:</strong> Now one of the stepper motors (NEMA 17 ~3.5kgfcm) in my core XY has been malfunctioning, where it misses rotation sometimes out of the blue, which shifts the whole print. I thought this is due to the driver limiting the current to the motor, so I rotated the screw terminal clockwise a bit more to allow more current for the motor. This works fine for a while, but the problem comes back.</p>
<p>Now, I also noticed a few times that this issue occurred when the cooling fan for the drivers stopped working.</p>
<p>Can the stopping of the cooling fan cause the stepper motor to falter?</p>
<p>Another observation is that the stepper motor which is faltering is placed close to another stepper motor. Although I know stepper motors can work in extreme conditions, can this cause the issue?</p>
<p>If you require any more info to investigate the issue, please do let me know</p>
| 13961 | X axis stops working sometimes on my Tronxy X5SA | <p>Yes, if the stepper motor drivers overheat, they shut down or skip steps, that is very possibly related to the failing stepper driver cooling fans.</p>
|
2020-06-29T00:28:41.437 | |terminology| | <p>When a hole is created for a bolt, it might be "tight"; the intent is for the hole to be tapped. Or it might be "loose", and the intent is for the bolt to slide into the hole and attached to a nut on the other side.</p>
<p>What is the terminology for these two kinds of holes?</p>
| 13972 | Bolt hole terminology for "tight" and "loose" bolt holes | <p>A hole designed for a screw/bolt to slide freely through is called a clearance hole. A hole that is designed to be tapped could be called a pilot hole.</p>
|
2020-06-29T02:30:05.760 | |adhesion|anycubic-i3-mega|anycubic-ultrabase| | <p>I'm printing with anycubic i3 mega on an ultrabase bed. When I first got the printer the prints were easy to remove from the bed after it cools down, I didn't need to put any extra effort. However after I used 70% isopropyl to clean it it seems I removed some kind of extra coating as all next prints were sticking to the bed firmly even after the bed cools down. So I tried to heat the bed up to 100 degrees and then cool it down and wait until it gets to something like 35, at that point print comes off quite easily (really helped me with some big parts with huge initial layer) so I wonder if I should just add that extra heating cycle to the end of each print job.</p>
<p>Is there any possible problems with that?</p>
<p>PS my understanding is that PLA should be okay with short temperature spike since it is being melted with twice as high heat. However long exposure to that temperature might cause some deformation (eg if I throw the printed part into dishwasher).
Another possible concern is that extra heating cycle could potentially shorten life of the ultrabase, but not sure if it is the case.</p>
<p>UPDATE</p>
<p>so after some experiments I printed at least a dozen calibration cubes adjusting several parameters along the way as it seems each of them contributed to the issue</p>
<ul>
<li>I decided to reset initial layer thickness which I noticed was set to <code>0.25</code> when normal layer was <code>0.2</code>. Since it was thicker for better adhesion I thought I don't need it since I don't have problem with sticking to the bed :)</li>
<li>second thing was the flow adjustment and enabling some layer filling settings in cura (filtering small holes etc). Ended up at <code>91%</code> flow rate which gave me much cleaner top layers as well as the bottom ones.</li>
<li>and finally I played with <code>Z offset</code>, I did bed leveling recently so it was flat (did single layer tests to check that) but it might have been a little bit too high, so adding an offset seems like a good way to compensate for it. The thing I was looking after as a feedback here is the squeezing bottom layers issue, so I stopped once I got initial layers a bit smaller than the ones on top, went back a few values and ended up with <code>0.125 mm</code> which sounds quite big to me but it allowed to get initial layer very clean and consistent with next layer so I think I got it right.</li>
</ul>
<p>I can say it is easier to remove the cube from the bed now (used to be very difficult and I was using a mallet almost every time in the beginning) but it still doesn't come off on its own. I also noticed that now all three dimensions are almost identical (Z was about <code>0.5</code> less). And all X/Y/Z are ~19mm after cube cools down (the model is 20mm) so I wonder if I need to fix that one now</p>
| 13975 | Any possible issues with adding heat/cool down cycle in the end of print (PLA) | <p>You did exactly the right thing:</p>
<ol>
<li>look,</li>
<li>see,</li>
<li>think,</li>
<li>evaluate and adapt</li>
<li>test</li>
<li>Back to 1. or continue to 7.</li>
<li>Solution found and applied!</li>
</ol>
<p>Congrats!
Johan</p>
<p>Ps: I use the tape in paper, used to mask before paint jobs, I was not that keen as you! It always comes off, and I restart every time with a clean glass, no hairspray, glue or others. They cost nothing, and if you are handy, you can use 100mm wide stripes. (or just the amount needed for your part.</p>
|
2020-06-29T20:33:34.190 | |slicing|sla| | <p>Does anyone know of a (manufacturer independent) software that supports different types of SLA printers?</p>
<p>Since there are many different SLA type printers around, I was wondering if there are any unified or open source methods for slicing in case the manufacturer drops support for the printer software (or my OS upgrades on me overnight and breaks compatability).</p>
| 13981 | Do SLA printers have open source slicers available to use? | <p>From what I have researched, each brand of printer has their own method of slicing objects for their printer to parse. For example:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/17nKJrZDkb8WA0aMEBN1xEAxEslRPMuqWTw_dSSEVjws/edit" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Peopoly Uses a profile for Cura</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.chitubox.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality, Elegoo and Phrozen use CHITUBOX</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.anycubic.com/blogs/videos/photon-workshop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Anycubic uses their Photon Workshop</a></li>
</ul>
<p>There doesn't appear to be any golden ticket type of method (like G-Code) for slicing and providing instructions.</p>
|
2020-06-30T17:18:47.347 | |sla|resin|print-orientation| | <p>Why is cupping bad? (I don't mean hollow parts)</p>
<h3>Example:</h3>
<p>Lets say that I want to print a simple cup without a handle.</p>
<p>There are two obvious orientations:</p>
<ul>
<li>In one orientation it won't require any support, which I quite like, but it will then form a 'cup' which my 3D program tells me is bad.</li>
<li>In the opposite orientation it needs to be filled with support, but the resin can freely run out.</li>
</ul>
<p>I don't want to add a drainage hole to my cup for obvious reasons :) Also, I am using a formlabs form 3, if it makes a difference.</p>
<p>A cup:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBWra.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBWra.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 13988 | Why is cupping bad in SLA prints? | <p>The printer prints, then moves up, then down again. The print surface stays inside the resin vat at all times. As a result, we have this experiment:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOGuJ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOGuJ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The "bottle" is resting in a vat of liquid. As we raise it more and more, it does not drain until the lower lid is free of the liquid surface or some point of the shell delaminates. The release of the resin can happen in a rather violent way - which in turn could deform the print in the making. Delamination rips through the part till air can enter the enclosed space, destroying the print in the process.</p>
<p>Even if printing the mouth against the plate you'll have cupping if you have a solid plate to print against. This can be mitigated with a little angle but trap liquid in the print at the end or including a couple of small gaps close to the surface to allow air to get into the print - yet unless the resin can flow out at the bottom some will be trapped in any case.</p>
<p>To prevent cupping, I would turn the cup to print sideways, that way resin and air can be exchanged.</p>
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2020-07-01T17:59:40.483 | |cad|freecad| | <p>I'm using FreeCAD, and I would like to duplicate a 2D sketch on another plane, but I can't seem to find an obvious way to do this.</p>
| 13993 | In FreeCAD, how do you copy a sketch from one plane to another? | <p>I’m assuming you are working in the Part Design workbench. Select the sketch and click <strong>Edit</strong> > <strong>Duplicate selected object</strong>. Make sure that only the sketch is copied (depending on the version, either deselect the plane or click don’t include dependent objects). This will produce a duplicate sketch in the active body (if you want the duplicate in a different body, make sure it’s active first by double-clicking it if necessary). You can then click <strong>Sketch</strong> > <strong>Reorient Sketch</strong> to move it to a different plane.</p>
<p>By the way, FreeCAD has a very active and helpful forum at <a href="https://freecadweb.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://freecadweb.org</a>. I highly recommend asking FreeCAD questions there.</p>
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2020-07-02T10:59:45.537 | |creality-ender-5|homing|axis| | <p>I am completely new to 3D Printing. I got my first printer, a Creality Ender 5 Pro, yesterday.</p>
<h3>My problem</h3>
<p>I shutdown the printer without the axis being in home position (<strong>X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 320</strong> instead of <strong>X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 0</strong>). I thought this should be no problem but after turning the printer on again the info screen showed the axis position as 0, 0, 0 again.</p>
<p>So, I can't move the Z axis up now because the printer thinks it's already at 0.</p>
<p>NOTE: On the Ender 5 the bed lowers for increasing values of the Z. So 320 is the lowest and 0 the highest. I know that the motor works because it tries to go down further if I increase the Z position, but I am scared of damaging the motor because it can't move further but it tries to (judging by that weird sound).</p>
<h3>My question</h3>
<p>Is this a normal behavior that the printer axis cant remember its position? Because I think when I built the printer the axes were also not at the 0, 0, 0 position and on the first start they moved back without any problems.</p>
<p>Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this? Or is this a broken printer?</p>
<p>PS: I could replicate this behavior on X and Y as well (moving them with prepare->move axis and then shutting down the printer). But in this case, I can easily disable the motors and move them manually back to 0, 0. This isn't the case for the Z Axis.</p>
<p>I hope I explained that understandably.</p>
| 14000 | Why can't my Ender 5 Pro remember its axis position or move back to home anymore? | <p><em>(Summed up from several entries in this thread.)</em></p>
<p>It is an untrue statement that the printer <em>can't move back to home anymore</em>, until the G-Code <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>G28</code></a> is executed. <strong>The printer can home, but must be ordered to do it.</strong></p>
<p>There are several <strong>ways to home the printer</strong> <em>(LCD hints are for Marlin firmware)</em>:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Start a print, which (by the book) includes <code>G28</code> in its initial part</p>
</li>
<li><p>Use the LCD menu option to home all axes: <code>Prepare > Auto Home</code></p>
</li>
<li><p>Use the LCD menu options to home single axes, for example: <code>Prepare > Auto Home Z</code>, after they are activated by adding the following to the <em>Configuration.h</em> file:</p>
<pre><code>#define INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU
</code></pre>
</li>
<li><p>Add your own options to the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7676/how-to-add-menu-options-to-the-marlin-firmware-lcd-menu/15216#15216">custom menu</a> in the LCD: <code>Custom Commands > Your command</code> - for example to have more complex scripts at hand, like a custom sequence of axes, multiple repeats, different back-off behavior, or move to center of bed (G-Code snippets)</p>
</li>
<li><p>The current position may be updated with G-Code <a href="https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>G92</code></a>, and this hack may be useful when a print gets stuck (e.g., power outage, thermal issue) and there is no space any more to home Z, but its actual position is known from the print file (the remaining part?) Set the known position of Z (<code>G92 Znnn</code>) and let X and Y home the standard way (<code>G28 X Y</code>)</p>
</li>
</ul>
|
2020-07-02T19:28:53.050 | |stepper-driver|tmc2208| | <p>I'm going to use <a href="https://learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TMC2208 stepstick</a> in a printer and the firmware can control via UART the current during printing and during holding (static, no movement): the firmware has an explicit setting for running current and for holding current.</p>
<p>In this case, should I care about the physical trimmer which controls the Vref?</p>
<p>I tried to understand the <a href="https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC220x_TMC2224_datasheet_Rev1.09.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TMC2208 datasheet</a> (page 50) when it's talking about current control but I don't understand whether the Vref becomes superfluous or it still acts as a maximum value which the UART must obey.</p>
| 14002 | Is the Vref trimmer relevant on TMC2208 in UART mode? | <p>The potmeter does not work in UART operation, see e.g. <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/UART-This-Serial-Control-of-Stepper-Motors-With-th/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this quote</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>You don't have to fiddle with jumpers to set your micro-steps, just
change it in the firmware, and you can dynamically change the amount
of current going to each stepper motor (no more adjusting that small
potentiometer on the driver board) just by sending a GCode command
(M906).</p>
</blockquote>
<p>So, you cannot change the Vref of a UART operated stepper driver, setting the current directly is the way to go on UART operated stepper drivers; in fact that is actually what you are doing on non-UART operated stepper drivers, you change the Vref to change the current through the stepper motor, the higher the voltage the higher the current through the stepper the more torque the stepper has.</p>
|
2020-07-03T10:06:06.487 | |creality-ender-3|pla|calibration|z-axis|glass-bed| | <p>All my prints come out about 1 mm too short in the Z dimension. So for example a 20 mm cube comes out 19 mm high. A 10 mm cube comes out 9 mm high. The X and Y dimensions are fine. There's a little bit of visible elephant's foot at the bottom, so I assume whatever is happening is in the first couple of layers. The problem is fairly consistently around 1 mm even for larger prints.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pjuev.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pjuev.jpg" alt="10 mm test cube" /></a>
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSPfi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSPfi.jpg" alt="20 mm test cube" /></a></p>
<p>The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed and BLTouch for automatic leveling, but otherwise stock.</p>
<p>I had a <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13940/expansion-in-bottom-skin-after-first-layer">similar issue with another Ender 3 Pro</a> that was resolved thanks to a link to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that">this question about problems in the first 3 mm</a>. The solution was turning the eccentric nuts on the left and right to loosen the rollers that connect the X-axis gantry to the vertical posts. There the Z issue was not as pronounced, and I was getting really messy prints in the first few Z layers. Here that is not an issue; the first few layers look fine while they're printing. Loosening the rollers did not resolve it.</p>
<p>Things I've tried:</p>
<ul>
<li>Tightening and loosening the gantry rollers using the eccentric nuts. They're currently just tight enough that turning them moves the gantry, but loose enough that I can turn them without moving the gantry if I hold it still.</li>
<li>Tightening and loosening the two little screws that attach the extruder mount to the Z-axis lead screw. Currently I made them just tight, then backed off 1/4 turn.</li>
<li>Adding a shim between the vertical post and the Z-axis lead screw. The lead screw is now pretty much parallel to the post.</li>
<li>Slowly turning the lead screw by hand to raise and lower the gantry. There's no noticeable catching or increased resistance anywhere.</li>
<li>Varying the brand and type of PLA filament.</li>
<li>Varying the temperature from 190 °C to 210 °C.</li>
<li>Obsessively leveling and re-leveling the bed. Manually leveling, auto leveling with the BLTouch, and adjusting the z-offset.</li>
</ul>
<p>I'm using the stock Ender 3 Pro profile in Cura, and printing at 0.2 mm layer height. I've kind of run out of things to check. What else can cause Z height loss in the first few layers like this?</p>
| 14004 | What can cause Z height loss in the first few layers? | <p>Do you have any “slop” on the right side (non motor) of the gantry?</p>
<p>I’ve noticed that my gantry will settle on the right side and lag behind the motor driven - ever so slightly - when it starts to drive up. It will, after that first lag, move fine for the rest of the time. Z axis travel seems barely affected but all my prints are consistently about 0.5 mm short.</p>
|
2020-07-03T19:43:47.467 | |diy-3d-printer|corexy| | <p>I’m thinking of building a diy H-bot printer but I have some questions...</p>
<ol>
<li><p>How can I tell the firmware that the printer is an H-bot one? I just need to uncomment the CoreXY option? Is it the same?</p>
</li>
<li><p>Does the print bed need to be square (for example 300x300) or it can be also a rectangle?</p>
</li>
<li><p>Are the steps/mm the same of the ones on a Cartesian 3D printer?</p>
</li>
<li><p>How can I recognize which motor goes on which connector on the motherboard? (The X and Y connectors I mean).</p>
</li>
</ol>
| 14007 | How does an H-bot printer work? | <p>The CoreXY kinematics can be seen as an evolution of the H-bot kinematics. In Marlin, you both need to configure the printer as a CoreXY machine. Note that your steps are determined by the pulleys in the steppers and need to be the same for the steppers. With testing you will find out if you have the correct value.</p>
<p>There are many popular designs out there; e.g. the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Hypercube&type=things&sort=relevant" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hypercube</a> and the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hypercube Evolution</a> (I have built the latter myself).</p>
<p>I would not recommend building an H-bot, these have an inherent design flaw in that the load is asymmetrical causing the carriage to be stressed by a torque causing racking. To minimize this racking, you would require more expensive tight tolerance hardware like proper linear rails (usually not the kind that you find on typical auction or Asian vending sites, but actual pricy Japanese or German hardware). The CoreXY kinematics stress the carriage symmetrically. Note that the difference between an H-bot and a CoreXY printer is only the length of the belts, nowadays good quality belts can be bought for any length you need.</p>
<p>Note that a square or rectangular bed is a non-issue, just specify the dimensions in the configuration. The only thing you need to find out is how to wire the steppers. I connect one stepper to one driver and the other stepper to the other driver. I then did some tests and found out I had to flip one stepper motors connector to get the correct movement. I could have reversed this in firmware as well.</p>
|
2020-07-04T11:50:06.563 | |adhesion|glass-bed|artillery-sidewinder-x1| | <p>I just printed my first cube from my newly arrived Artillery Sidewinder X1. I am totally new to 3D printing but I managed to correctly unbox, assemble and prepare it for printing.
I used PLA filament and the cube ended up great. I removed it using a cutter gently pulling it up from the first layer and it popped right off.</p>
<p>A little layer of material was still stuck on the bed and, I don't know why, my dumb brain decided to use ethyl alchool 90 % to scrub it off on that little surface. I immediately used some water to wipe the alchool off but it was too late.
Now on that portion of the bad all I see is a matte area that I can't fix.</p>
<p>Did I irremediably ruin my bed? I am so bummed I can't even describe it. All went great but I decided to do this on my own and I failed. I do know that the bed is replaceable but I just hope is not very expensive.</p>
<p>Here's a couple of pictures to give you a look of the damage.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YAaQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YAaQ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHCVE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHCVE.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
| 14010 | I mistakenly used 90% ethyl alchool to scrape some PLA off my bed; did I ruin it? | <p>First of all, let's look at what kind of bed you have. According to <a href="https://all3dp.com/1/artillery-sidewinder-x1-review-3d-printer-specs/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a review</a>, it is a "porous ceramic coated glass surface."</p>
<h2>Your bed is fine...</h2>
<p>Glass and almost all ceramics are virtually impervious to most liquids, be them alcohol or even most acids unless that acid is hydrofluoric acid. So on a chemical standpoint, your bed is most likely ok, just the alcohol managed to leech some of the coloration or deposit dust in the surface - which is no problem usually. The matte might even just be PLA stuck in the surface, so if this happens if you print in a different area, you know that is not <em>damage</em> per see it's a normal sign of <em>use</em>.</p>
<p>So from that standpoint, I see no problem.</p>
<h2>...but there are safety issues with the bed design</h2>
<p>Where I see a problem though is the construction of the bed itself: it runs on mains voltage and is heated directly, which can cause all kind of problems, especially breaking off the cable as there is no proper strain relief on the cable! Atop that, the review points out that the bed heats uneven, which can very quickly lead to stress and breaking of the bed.</p>
<p>Because of this construction, <strong>I strongly advise to refit a strain relief and use utmost care no to touch the bed during operation</strong>. Make sure not to hammer onto it and don't overheat it to prevent thermal cracking.</p>
|