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2020-07-05T05:46:46.427

|safety|thermistor|

<p>I bought a month ago the Artillery Genius. Everything was pretty good until today, I was printing a test cube and it stopped pulling out filament, when I looked the temperature it was -15 °C, a few seconds after the thermistor sensor broke and got stuck on the extruder creating a little bit of smoke. I had bought a thermistor sensor and a heater cartridge original replacement. I changed both and turn the printer back on. As soon I turn it on the extruder start to increase the temperature, almost 300 °C and then change to -15 °C. I checked the connections multiple times, I even change the sensor with another one, but nothing works. I checked the boards, cables but everything looks great. Don't know what else can be. I already contacted customer support but just want to look for another opinion while waiting for there answer.</p>

14014

Extruder increase temperature

<p>Your printer does seem to have a firmware problem and lack important safety features - it should have stopped the moment it went 300°C measurement, beeped like hell, and shut down with an error message about Thermal Runaway Protection. <strong>Immediately stop using the printer!</strong></p> <p>Before you try to print again, you need to make a proper firmware for your printer, one that has both <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection?r=SearchResults&amp;s=1%7C21.9164">Mintemp, Maxtemp as well as Thermal Runaway Protection actiive</a> and flash that. While setting up your firmware, make sure you use the right temperature table for your thermosensor. How to do that is detailed <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide9">here</a>.</p>

2020-07-07T19:45:48.143

|extruder|creality-cr-10|filament-sensor|

<p><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0046/3781/8929/files/CR-10-Max-_2.gif" alt="Sensor" /></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fDW1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fDW1.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a> I'm just finishing the set-up of a CR-10 Max. It is a new printer.</p> <p>I don't manage to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor.</p> <p>I can hear the micro switch click; the LED turns blue, then a few millimeters after that (33 mm total from the entry point), there is something that prevents the filament from going forward. I don't see any switch on the outside of the sensor, and I applied a reasonable amount of force on the filament.</p> <p>Can you tell me how to troubleshoot this ?</p>

14040

How to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor?

<p>Here is 3D model that better explains why it was catching and how to remedy the problem:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooe48.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooe48.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTy92.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTy92.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4Y91.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4Y91.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pv4Op.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pv4Op.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The filament is likely to have some twists and the bevel you create may not be in the correct orientation once it catches the ridge.</p> <p>The out hole is not chamfered on the inside, as it is drilled from the outside, and I guess a chamfer on the inside is not available at this price range.</p> <p>I found that twisting the filament 90° at most one way or the other always helps the filament finds its way. It can be tricky because of the small diameter/stiffness of the filament, with the spool still attached to the other end.</p>

2020-07-07T20:04:17.993

|diy-3d-printer|stepper|nema-17|tmc2209|

<p>So basically, I have 3 different types of steppers.</p> <ul> <li>A NEMA 23 stepper for the Z-axis,</li> <li>a good quality NEMA 17 for Y-axis and</li> <li>another lower quality NEMA 17 for X-axis.</li> </ul> <p>This setup should work right?. I'm using TMC2209's stepper drivers and all are well within the drivers rated phase current limit.</p>

14041

Can I use different sized steppers for different axes?

<p>Each axis is fine using a different stepper size and/or quality. You will still need to tune their operating current and steps/mm for each of course. Make sure your motor mounts fit too.</p> <p>Where it might become challenging is if you wanted two different steppers on the SAME axis. As in, a NEMA17 + NEMA23 for a dual Z axis. I don't think this is what you intend though.</p>

2020-07-08T01:32:45.770

|stepper-driver|smoothing|tevo-tornado|

<p>I have a TEVO Tornado (bought quite recently) and I want to know what is the best type of smoothers MKS smoothers or TL smoothers? Are they the same thing?</p>

14042

Smoothers for TEVO Tornado printer

<p>The use of smoothers totally depends on the stepper drivers you are using! Note that the TL and MKS smoothers do exactly the same thing. Both use an arrangement of 4 or 8 diodes. Details of the problems with drivers and the working of the smoothers is explained in <a href="http://cabristor.blogspot.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this blog post</a>. The problem is that some stepper drivers are not able to produce low currents as of the present dead-zone.</p> <blockquote> <p>if we had a way to modify the motor so that with a voltage of 1.4 V there would be no current flowing, then the driver would be able to generate all the currents because it would always be spitting out more than the minimum voltage</p> </blockquote> <p>The diodes prevent current to flow at the cost of a voltage drop; a 1.4 V voltage drop (2 diodes) would prevent current to flow, as such you see diodes in series on the smoother boards.</p> <p>These MKS/TL smoothers help with smoothing out the signal going through stepper motors; e.g. the notoriously noisy DRV8825 motor drivers are known for a stepped sine curve rather than a smooth output.</p> <p>More modern chipsets such as the TMC21xx, TMC22xx, and TMC51xx do a much better job at providing smooth signals, and surprisingly, so do the cheaper drivers like the A4988s!</p> <p>So if you are using stepper drivers that do not produce a smooth sine wave, like the DRV8825 stepper drivers, you could potentially benefit from installing smoothers. This could help with salmon/zebra skin/moire and ringing print artifacts/defects.</p> <p>To quote the popular All3DP 3D printing site from <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/tl-smoother-should-i-add-one-to-my-3d-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">&quot;TL Smoother: Should I Add One to My 3D Printer?&quot;</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>It’s a <strong>yes</strong> if you’re running DRV8825 stepper drivers. This was what TL smoothers were designed to do: fix a design flaw in the DRV8825. Your mileage may vary based on your printer’s power supply, but you’ll likely see noticeable improvements in print quality.</p> <p>It’s a <strong>no</strong> if you’re running newer Trinamic stepper drivers. Trinamic drivers have many “smart” features built in that don’t suffer from the same issues as the DRV8825 and already counter electrical noise. As a post from Trinamic notes, adding TL smoothers doesn’t provide any significant benefit; it only increases power consumption and heat generation.</p> <p>It’s a <strong>maybe</strong> if you’re running other drivers. Other stepper drivers might not have the DRV8825’s design flaws, but they may benefit from the slight electrical dampening created by the TL smoother’s circuit. Considering the smoothers’ low cost (~\$8-15 for packs of 3 or 4), it doesn’t hurt to try it out and let the results speak for themselves.</p> </blockquote>

2020-07-08T10:08:43.587

|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|bltouch|

<p>My Creality CR-10 Max is equipped with a BL Touch sensor for bed leveling.</p> <p>The bed size is 450 mm x 450 mm.</p> <p>Here is the 16 measurement points taken from a 4x4 grid:</p> <pre><code>float v[] = {-1.15625, -0.7625, 0.1525, 1.13, -1.1150, -0.5150, 0.2125, 1.650, -0.8525, -0.215, 0.510, 1.4425, -0.4125, 0.2649, 1.0350, 1.9050}; </code></pre> <p>Which looks like this:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rLIkc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rLIkc.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The bed doesn't look flat or level. To what extent should I try to make the bed flat and level?</p> <p>It's now a day later, and the bed looks like this (image below) after turning the four knobs using AUX leveling (a helper to locate the nozzle above the knobs), so that the nozzle barely scratches a sheet of paper:</p> <pre><code>float v[] = {0.0849, 0.0599, 0.1549, 0.2874, 0.2674, 0.0624, -0.0425, 0.0699, 0.3374, 0.1199, -0.0150, 0.0199, 0.5399, 0.3349, 0.1899, 0.2074}; </code></pre> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OPQ5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4OPQ5.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I also notice that the bed is slightly concave in its center: using a straight edge (a steel ruler on its side), there is enough room in middle ninth (center square) under the ruler for one sheet of paper.</p>

14047

What is the next step after measuring the bed levels?

<p>Now that you have leveled the bed you are ready to start printing. To enable leveling for printing, you need to add G-code <code>G29</code> directly after <code>G28</code> in your start G-code of your slicer.</p> <p>The array values you reported are just for information or visualisation of the level of the bed. Although you have ABL you always need to provide a bed that is as level as best as you can, the ABL will take care of the final dents or skewness.</p>

2020-07-08T17:54:14.560

|hotend|heat-management|thermistor|

<p>I have a Felix Tec 4 (Single Extruder) and at the moment I print for a relatively long time compared to my other prints. Recently I noticed that after a few hours of continuous printing the displayed temperature jumped by up to 10 °C, which is almost certainly not true. Since it is the temperature that jumps, it will probably be the thermistor that is broken, but what is broken that this only happens after several hours and not immediately?</p> <p>I think it does not have to do something with the G-code, because the temperature makes jumps of up to 10 °C in one second and back again. I had 2 pretty big prints to do. It happend on both of them, but I forgot to take screenshots on the first print which was much worse that the second one. Here is how it looked in OctoPrint on second print:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5yKN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/o5yKN.png" alt="Octoprint Temperature Display during second print" /></a></p> <p>For comparison I have entered the temparatures manually in OctoPrint and made a screenshot of the temparature <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aD7S7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aD7S7.png" alt="Octoprint Temparature at the beginging of a Print" /></a></p> <p>I searched the GCode for <code>M104</code>, <code>M109</code>, <code>M140</code> and <code>M190</code>, but only found <code>M190</code> one time at the beginning, which I think is normal.</p>

14048

Displayed temperature jumping while printing for a long time

<p>Your temperature is not just bumping up 10 °C. Your hotend is fluctuating in temperature, it drops under and increases over the &quot;set&quot; temperature. The hotend temperature is a result of the amount heat you put into it and how much heat you pull from it (e.g. filament heats up and draws energy from the heater block), apart from a too large printing speed for the heater to follow the energy off-take, this can be the result of one of the following (or combined) issues:</p> <ul> <li>Your print cooling fan position is too high/not low enough, it cools the heater block/nozzle</li> <li>Your PID settings are not correct</li> </ul> <p>Many hotend designs come with silicone &quot;socks&quot; insulating the heater block and to shield airflow from cooling the heater block.</p>

2020-07-09T18:07:38.317

|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|

<p>I was looking at some end high 3D printers (drooling just a little bit) when I found this.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9kls.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9kls.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Now, this was a 3500 \$ printer when new back in 2016. I'm relatively to the 3D printing (well... kind of) and have not seen this type of design before. What is it? Cartesian? CoreXY? This style, from my limited knowledge, looks like a best of both worlds kind of scenario because if you look at it - it has that traditional simple Cartesian design, but with a light head of a CoreXY type printer (Exclude the circuitry behind the stepper, that is something else). This was designed to be used in a mechanical application, so it has to be precise. Is this a good configuration and does Marlin support it?</p>

14052

What type of kinamatics is 3D Gence One using?

<p>I'm can't say for sure, since this is my first time seeing this type of 3D printer configuration too, but I think this is a cartesian style printer. If you think about it, it is similar to a Prusa-style printer, but instead of an x-gantry being raised and lowered by a leadscrew, the heated bed is being lowered and raised with two leadscrews. Software-wise, the printer you mentioned should be configured exactly like a Prusa-style printer, but with a reversed Z-axis, since to make the heated bed move closer to the hotend, it must be raised instead of lowered.</p> <p>I personally do not think this printer is a CoreXY configuration since a CoreXY printer relies on two motors that work simultaneously to move the X and Y axis, while the printer you showed has the X and Y-axis moving independently of each other (as can be seen by the belt under the heated bed and the belt that moves the hotend left and right). At least, in my opinion, the way the X and Y-axis operate on a CoreXY is what makes the CoreXY unique, instead of the raising and lowering of the heated bed.</p> <p>You can read about the variations of Cartesian 3D printers <a href="https://3dprinting.com/3dprinters/building-a-3d-printer-from-scratch-tips-tricks/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. If you are interested in other styles of 3D printers, you can check the Delta and Polar style printer section of <a href="https://3dprinterpower.com/four-fff-3d-printer-styles/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this article</a>.</p> <p>Hope I piqued your interest in 3D printing :D</p> <p>Feel free to comment on this if you have more things to ask, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can :)</p>

2020-07-11T08:37:06.757

|creality-ender-3|firmware|

<p>I recently got an Ender 3 V2 and when I go to Info -&gt; Version it says V1.0.0. <a href="https://www.creality.com/download/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">However online, there is V1.0.1 available.</a></p> <p>How can I update the Ender 3 V2. It is different as it isn't a ATMEL chip like the ATMEGA 2560 but rather an ARM processor. I own many arduino boards but apparently the chip has the bootloader already on it.</p> <p>So how can I update the board, through some uploader, specific software or what exactly.</p>

14059

Updating an Ender 3 V2

<p>Just copy the firmware to a blank microsd card. Turn off the printer and turn it on. Board will flash it automatically and wait the screen to up.</p> <p>Make sure the name of the firmware file always unique or different from the last one, otherwise you will get the blank screen. If you do, just re-flash by using a rename (different) file of firmware.</p>

2020-07-13T17:14:53.380

|diy-3d-printer|g-code|surface|corexy|

<p>I have a <strong>Core XY Custom DIY Printer</strong>, but actually I have a problem with the measure in Axis X and Y. When a print a test cube with the measure 20 mm x 20 mm 20 mm, the object printed result with these dimensions.</p> <p>Z = 20 mm X = 15 mm Y = 15 mm</p> <p>Well, I know how solved this problem, because of long time ago have the same problem, do a question, and that was answered, and this moment solved my problem. <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10319/12715">answer old question</a></p> <p>Now I use the same process</p> <ol> <li><p>Connect the printer to my pc</p> </li> <li><p>Use <strong>Simplify 3D</strong> for send gcode to the machine</p> </li> <li><p><code>M503</code> for get the set values</p> </li> <li><p><code>M92</code> for change the values X and Y</p> </li> <li><p><code>M500</code> for store the new values for default in the memory of the printer</p> </li> <li><p><code>M503</code> for check the actual values, and these are the correct</p> </li> </ol> <p>So, I print the test cube, the measure are right, but with two problems</p> <ol> <li>Every time I.m will go to print, if turn off the machine, the process to be need repeat, in other words, the gcode <code>M500</code> doesn't work.</li> <li>the nozzle doesn't start the extrusion in the middle when the parameters were changed.</li> </ol> <p>Send <code>M503</code> for known the parameters. These parameters are the set by default At this moment in the printer.</p> <pre><code>G21 ; (mm) M149 C ; Units in Celsius Filament settings: Disabled M200 D1.75 M200 D0 Steps per unit: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E100.00 Maximum feedrates (units/s): M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z2.00 E10.00 Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): M201 X2000 Y2000 Z50 E5000 Acceleration (units/s2): P&lt;print_accel&gt; R&lt;retract_accel&gt; T&lt;travel_accel&gt; M204 P2000.00 R2000.00 T2000.00 Advanced: Q&lt;min_segment_time_us&gt; S&lt;min_feedrate&gt; T&lt;min_travel_feedrate&gt; X&lt;max_x_jerk&gt; Y&lt;max_y_jerk&gt; Z&lt;max_z_jerk&gt; E&lt;max_e_jerk&gt; M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X5.00 Y5.00 Z0.40 E5.00 Home offset: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 Material heatup parameters: M145 S0 H180 B70 F0 M145 S1 H240 B110 F0 PID settings: M301 P13.70 I0.71 D65.64 </code></pre> <p>After sending code <code>M92 X106.64 Y106.64</code></p> <pre><code>G21 ; (mm) M149 C ; Units in Celsius Filament settings: Disabled M200 D1.75 M200 D0 Steps per unit: M92 X106.64 Y106.64 Z400.00 E100.00 Maximum feedrates (units/s): M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z2.00 E10.00 Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): M201 X2000 Y2000 Z50 E5000 Acceleration (units/s2): P&lt;print_accel&gt; R&lt;retract_accel&gt; T&lt;travel_accel&gt; M204 P2000.00 R2000.00 T2000.00 Advanced: Q&lt;min_segment_time_us&gt; S&lt;min_feedrate&gt; T&lt;min_travel_feedrate&gt; X&lt;max_x_jerk&gt; Y&lt;max_y_jerk&gt; Z&lt;max_z_jerk&gt; E&lt;max_e_jerk&gt; M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X5.00 Y5.00 Z0.40 E5.00 Home offset: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 Material heatup parameters: M145 S0 H180 B70 F0 M145 S1 H240 B110 F0 PID settings: M301 P13.70 I0.71 D65.64 </code></pre> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dPw3h.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dPw3h.jpg" alt="surface" /></a></p> <ul> <li>Red circle, the middle of the plate or surface printer, in this position, start to print with actual parameters by default, and respect the limits(black square), but, with the measure in axis X and Y wrong after printed the model.</li> <li>Green circle, the nozzle start in this position when changing the parameter in axis X and Y, printed with the measure correct, but by taking a position that is not the right one, it assumes other limits and spends almost half of the print surface area.</li> </ul>

14073

How to start a print in the center position after a change in parameters using M92 and M500 G-code

<blockquote> <p>Every time I.m will go to print, if turn off the machine, the process to be need repeat, in other words, the gcode M500 doesn't work.</p> </blockquote> <p>This tells me that your firmware has the EEPROM support needed for the <code>M500</code> command disabled.</p> <h1>Fixing the firmware</h1> <p>You need to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide">update your firmware</a> to enable storing the information in the EEPROM: the line should read as follows without any leading <code>//</code></p> <pre><code>#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands </code></pre> <p>When you are already updating your firmware, you should also fix your firmware to have the correct steps/mm, as those are off in your build. An example for the line you look for is</p> <pre><code>#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 106.64, 106.64, 4000, 500 } </code></pre> <h1>Workaround</h1> <h2>automatic setting of the Steps/mm fix</h2> <p>There's a way to fix it on the user side though: When slicing, your Start-G-code needs to include <code>M92 X106.64 Y106.64</code>, best before homing. That way you make sure that your printer sets the correct Steps/mm whenever you load a printjob.</p> <h2>Home position</h2> <h3>via offset</h3> <p>If the home offset is wrong, you can fix it as the next line <strong>before</strong> <code>G28</code> - if the home position is for example 10 mm of the trigger in both X and Y, you'd add <code>M206 X100.00 Y100.00 Z0.00</code> - If your printer has &quot;home&quot; properly defined in the center of the build plate and your slicer is set up to respect that, this should do it. You need to</p> <h3>via move and 0-ing</h3> <p>Another way to get the printhead to the center is to use <strong>first</strong> <code>G28</code>, then insert a movement to the center of the bed (<code>G0 X100 Y100</code> for a bed 200 mm across) and then order <code>G92 X0 Y0</code>, defining that point as the origin.</p> <h3>necessary next line!</h3> <p>In either case, the setup of Marlin also prevents you to move to the &quot;negative&quot; area due to the software endstops by default. So you need to add <code>M121</code> after it to be allowed to go into the negative space.</p> <h2>Start G-code in bulk</h2> <pre><code>M92 X106.64 Y106.64 G28 G0 X100 Y100 ; move to center G92 X0 Y0 M121 </code></pre>

2020-07-14T03:03:48.837

|marlin|firmware|arduino|linux|melzi|

<p>I need to set the <code>HOME_POS</code> manually since it isn't printing in the center of the bed. But whenever I try to upload it to the Melzi 2.0 board I get an <code>out of sync</code> error.</p> <p>I am using Arduino IDE on Manjaro Linux, I was able to upload Marlin to the board on Windows 10 but I have since removed that OS. I have the correct settings for the board: Sanguino Atmega 1280 or 1280P (16mhz)</p> <p>Here is what I have tried to get me this far:</p> <ul> <li>Running Arduino IDE as root (administrator) which fixed the <code>permission denied</code> error</li> <li>Changing the Board and the processor settings</li> <li>Uploading a fresh Marlin firmware with no changes</li> <li><strong>Uploading a simple program to my Arduino UNO which worked</strong></li> <li>Changing USB Ports (USB 3.0, USB 2.0)</li> <li>Changing the Baud Rate from 115200 to 57600</li> </ul> <p>Here is the (verbose) error message</p> <pre><code>Arduino: 1.8.12 (Linux), Board: &quot;Sanguino, ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)&quot; Sketch uses 107854 bytes (82%) of program storage space. Maximum is 130048 bytes. Global variables use 4054 bytes (24%) of dynamic memory, leaving 12330 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 16384 bytes. /root/.arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avrdude/6.3.0-arduino17/bin/avrdude -C/root/.arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avrdude/6.3.0-arduino17/etc/avrdude.conf -v -patmega1284p -carduino -P/dev/ttyUSB0 -b115200 -D -Uflash:w:/tmp/arduino_build_963029/Marlin.ino.hex:i avrdude: Version 6.3-20190619 Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/ Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch System wide configuration file is &quot;/root/.arduino15/packages/arduino/tools/avrdude/6.3.0-arduino17/etc/avrdude.conf&quot; User configuration file is &quot;/root/.avrduderc&quot; User configuration file does not exist or is not a regular file, skipping Using Port : /dev/ttyUSB0 Using Programmer : arduino Overriding Baud Rate : 115200 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x73 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x74 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x61 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x72 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x74 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x0a avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x65 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x63 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x68 avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x6f avrdude done. Thank you. An error occurred while uploading the sketch </code></pre>

14076

Unable to upload Marlin 2.0 to Melzi 2.0 board

<p>Okay thanks to @towe for helping me I figured it out. my Baud Rate was set to 115200 but my board is using the old bootloader so it needed to be 57600. I Changed my boards.txt file to that but the verbose console printed: <code>Overriding Baud Rate : 115200</code> turns out you need to change it in the serial monitor as well (the little magnifying glass in the top corner of the IDE) after that everything worked great thanks for all the help!</p>

2020-07-15T03:00:07.590

|marlin|bltouch|z-probe|homing|

<p>I'm using latest stable Marlin 1.1.9.1 with BLTouch. The BLTouch seems a bit damaged so I want to increase its accuracy with multiple measurements.</p> <p>I've increased <code>#define MULTIPLE_PROBING</code> to 3 but it seems it applies only to mesh ABL and doesn't work with single center homing. I want to get something like fastprobe + average for two or three slow probes.</p> <p>Am I missing something? Or it is not possible?</p>

14082

Increase Z-homing probe number

<p>Homing and mesh probing are 2 separate actions, by setting <code>#define MULTIPLE_PROBING</code> to 3, you inherently create 3 slow probing points for the mesh probing (not the homing probing), with 2 you get a fast/slow probing action.</p> <p>Everything is possible, but, that means that you need to dig into the sources; not changing the configuration constants. That is not for the faint hearted.</p> <p>I've seen the responses of fast and slow probing in action, usually the difference is not existent or very very small, like one or two hundredths of a millimeter, I seriously wonder if it makes sense to use more than 2 probing points.</p> <p>Please note that a damaged bed may benefit more from increasing the probing array amount (from 3 x 3 to 4 x 4 / 5 x 5). The number of probing points discussed earlier only dictates the amount of probing actions in a single point; if the sensor hits the bed the probe measurement is done, if it hits again, the value should more or less be the same (give or take the accuracy of the sensor), I do not see what damage to a bed would imply more probing measurements in a single spot. The only rationale would be if the sensor itself has a large inaccuracy with an error that is not systematic, but random. My BLTouch (original) is pretty accurate and repeatable, I've had more issues with all those cheap knock-offs.</p>

2020-07-15T18:48:28.697

|ultimaker-cura|g-code|wi-fi|

<p>I was wondering how WiFi based 3D Printing works since I want to start an open source project and need some information on this. I have done some research, I have now an understanding on how the printer interprets the G-code and how it acts upon the instructions. But what I couldn't find information on is how WiFi based 3D printing works</p> <ol> <li><p>What is the communication between the slicer (such as Cura) and the board?</p> </li> <li><p>How are the commands sent to the printer from the slicer, line by line or the entire G-code?</p> </li> <li><p>How do I establish a connection between the slicer and the board?</p> </li> </ol> <p>I am well aware of the already existent Raspberry Pi idea compatible with Octoprint but I am making a much cheaper one</p> <p>Thanks for any help</p>

14087

How does wireless 3D printing work?

<ol> <li><p>Slicers don't talk to the printer. Slicers analyze an STL file and generate a GCODE file, based on your parameters. A print manager sends the commands from the GCODE file to the printer board, which executes them sequentially.</p> </li> <li><p>They are not. Commands are sent to the printer from a print manager of some sort. This varies among printers; some printers can be managed by more than one manager, and some managers can handle many models of printer. Some printer-manager pairs are proprietary and exclusive.</p> </li> <li><p>You do not. See above.</p> </li> </ol> <p>Note, some programs <em>do</em> have an integrated slicer and print manager. - Thanks, Trish</p>

2020-07-16T10:36:53.157

|sla|resin|molds|flexible|

<p>I have seen some videos like <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9SrWvJJtaI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a>, that uses 3D printing to make a piece that will be used to make a silicone mold that will then be used to make the final object made of some resin.</p> <p>Isn't possible to make the mold directly from the 3D printing process?</p> <p>I want to make an object (that's actually another mold to make tofu) using a flexible mold. Can I use 3D SLA printing with a flexible material such as <a href="https://formlabs.com/materials/flexible-elastic/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this one</a> and then use it to make my final mold made of some liquid resin? Also, do you have any suggestions about food grand liquid resin or similar?</p>

14091

Use SLA 3D printing to make a flexible mold

<h1>Background</h1> <p>SLA relies on the properties of UV-curing Resin. Most currently available UV Curing Resins harden to a solid, hard polymer, but that doesn't mean there are no other UV curing resins that are elastic. Most however will not be suitable for SLA or DLP systems!</p> <p>Polyurethanes, which can be flexible if cured in the right way, have not come onto the market as suitable SLA/DLP printing material and up to now, I have only found one UV hardening resin on the market - the one offered by FormLabs and identified by OP</p> <h2>Patent History</h2> <p>Indeed, elastic resins are actually quite new. The first patent I could find for an elastic resin was <a href="https://patents.google.com/patent/EP1602689B1/en" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2003 for an elastic epoxy resin</a>, while subsequent elastic resins were brought to Patent are different like the <a href="https://patents.google.com/patent/US20100298473" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2007 elastic olefin resin</a>. In fact, there is a <a href="https://patents.google.com/patent/US8980971" rel="nofollow noreferrer">2013 US patent on SLA Resin</a>, which is still in effect. As a result of such patents being still in effect or just out of protection times, the market is still very much limited because most manufacturers simply lack the knowledge of how to do it or the licenses to be allowed to do it. In fact, <a href="https://patents.google.com/?assignee=formLabs&amp;oq=formLabs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Formlabs</a> is named on 43 patents for 3D printers and accessories, of which only 1 is expired as of July 2020. I could not identify the patent that might be in use for their flexible resin, but the <a href="https://formlabs-media.formlabs.com/datasheets/2001418-TDS-ENUS-0.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">marketing material</a> is of May 2020, so it is relatively new on the market and might not have been updated into either the patent database or FormLabs did buy an exclusive license for the material from someone else, meaning they will not show up as Assignee in it. Or it is kept a trade secret.</p> <h1>Material implications</h1> <p>The printed mold will probably be of a different stiffness than a cast mold as you work with a totally different material and your new molds might degrade at a different speed than urethane or latex cast molds. To get a feel for this this, you will need to run some experiments. As FormLabs hands out test specimens of their print materials, you might order the two flexible ones and then test their stiffness and suitability for your uses by having them interact with your casting resin and seeing if they break down and if you can remove them easily.</p> <h1>Food grade</h1> <p><strong>Generally</strong> don't consider anything that comes directly from a 3D printer <em><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6941/8884">certifiable food safe</a></em>, as you need to have <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/151/8884">both a process and a material</a> that is food rated. There are ways to use the resulting parts to manufacture food safe objects, but that's elaborated for example in some of the questions I suggest to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/food+safety">look into</a></p>

2020-07-18T11:45:41.173

|hotend|tevo-tarantula|

<p>I get the error &quot;<code>Thermal runaway on E1. Reset printer.</code>&quot; today on my Tevo Tarantula when powering on the printer. The display shows the error and the speaker beeps loudly everytime I power on the printer or reset it.</p> <p>I use the firmware <a href="https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula</a>, because I can switch E0 heat nozzle to E1 wires, without soldering; PID's for nozzle were configured, and works fine before I replaced the power supply.</p> <p>Recently my power supply was broken, and today I installed new power supply, clean nozzle, several times start bed leveling, and on fourth time of homing error appeared.</p> <p>Power supply voltage tested with a multimeter and the voltage of power supply is 12.06V.</p> <p>Note: several times printer started bed leveling.</p>

14100

Thermal runaway when power on

<p>Issue is solved!</p> <p>Root cause was a broken thermistor circuit at board and broken thermistor.</p> <p>I disconnected all wires and power, measured board and thermistors resistance: E0 = ~120 Ω, (E1 and Bed) = ~700 Ω. I swapped pins for <code>TEMP_0_PIN</code> and <code>TEMP_1_PIN</code> within Marlin for Tevo firmware at <code>pins_RAMPS.h</code> as described in answer on question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10208/change-hotend-thermistor-input-in-marlin">Change hotend thermistor input in Marlin</a>, changed thermistor and everything prints fine.</p>

2020-07-19T12:26:27.243

|slicing|

<p>I was wondering how slicers work, how their code runs to generate a G-Code file. How is an STL file interpreted through a slicer.</p> <p>How does the math work for generating supports, build plate adhesion?</p> <p>I couldn't find any information, so can anyone help with this technical question</p> <p>Ryan</p>

14105

How do slicers convert an STL file to G-Code?

<h1>Slicing in General</h1> <p>An STL is a set of triangle surfaces. A Watertight STL - for slicing purposes - has surfaces that always create closed outlines if cut parallel to the XY plane.</p> <p>A Slicer does exactly that: it creates plane-cuts at the indicated Z-heights, takes the plane-cut's outline(s), and decides a direction and order in which to follow the generated path. Then it uses this outline to generate the infill pattern, for example, as explained <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6832/how-are-infill-paths-connect-to-form-an-efficient-path-that-respect-the-objects/6836#6836">here.</a></p> <p>The more paths there are and the smaller the triangles that are cut up, the more complex the solution process becomes and the longer it takes.</p> <h1>Support calculation</h1> <p>A slicer usually identifies areas that need support by calculating at which angle an STL Surface cuts a given plane cut. Under standard settings, this would be about less than 60° to the XY-plane with the normal of the surface having a negative Z-component - which means that a needle poking out of that surface points towards the bed.</p> <p>The most simple form of support generation simply generates a grid pattern between such areas and the bed or next surface below. Tree support on the other tries to generate a support structure that bends around the object without intersecting and only relying on the support of itself.</p> <h1>Build Plate adhesion</h1> <p>A skirt and brim are just taking the outline of the build-plate intersection and surround that with outlines.</p> <p>A Raft is generated like the simple support case, but taking the whole base of the object, adding a little edge around it and then generating the support grid there.</p>

2020-07-21T06:32:01.590

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|retraction|

<p><strong>TL;DR: Upper layers of a stringing pyramid test are missing retractions in the G-code.</strong></p> <p>Edit 1: added printer info and additional settings.<br /> Edit 2: Clearing up confusing wording.</p> <p><strong>Update:</strong><br /> <strong>I wrote a program to parse the G-code and count the retraction-extension pairs between layers. The first 17 layers (base) and 18-95 (pyramid start) have the appropriate number of extruder calls. I expect an extension at the start of the layer, retraction before moving to the second tower, extension to print the second tower, and a retraction before moving back to the first tower.</strong></p> <p><strong>After layer 95 of 391 the number of retraction pairs starts to decrease from missing a pair every other layer to eventually almost no retraction pairs. The last 70-ish layers have a retraction pair every dozen or so layers.</strong></p> <p><strong>Perhaps this is related somehow to the shrinking width of the pyramid since the missing retraction-extension pairs increase as the pyramid comes to a point</strong></p> <p><strong>Disabling Z-Hop shows no difference in this behavior</strong></p> <p><strong>Original question:</strong><br /> After switching to a 0.2 mm nozzle I starting printing some calibration tests to find my stringing pyramids end up looking like a pair of trees. I suspect I've always had this issue, but it's much more evident now with a smaller nozzle that likes to ooze.</p> <p>This is on an Ender 3, so using a Bowden tube, with a MicroSwiss all metal hot end and the extruder mechanism is aluminum with a pair of toothed drive gears. I'm seeing the problem in 1.75mm PLA of multiple well regarded manufacturers.</p> <p><strong>Relevant Settings (let me know of other settings I should list):</strong></p> <ul> <li>enabled retraction</li> <li>combing mode 'off'</li> <li>enabled z-hop when retracted</li> <li>retraction distance 3.5mm</li> <li>retraction speed 50mm</li> <li>retraction minimum travel 1.5mm</li> <li>Infil 100%</li> </ul> <p>Looking at the G-code, sometimes I see a retraction paired with the Z-hop, but sometimes it's missing. It seems pretty random for when it's missing, but the first quarter or so of the layers do not show the problem. Originally I thought it had something to do with extruder drift over time, or something crazy, until I looked at the G-code and saw it was missing commands.</p> <p><strong>Snippit of retracting for Z-hop:</strong></p> <pre><code>G1 F1200 X204.632 Y161.781 E77.9224 G1 F3000 E74.4224 G1 F300 Z7.08 ;MESH:NONMESH G0 F9000 X190.179 Y161.901 Z7.08 ;TIME_ELAPSED:2354.891407 ;LAYER:171 ;MESH:string_test_fast_pyramid.stl G0 X190.179 Y161.901 Z7.12 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER G1 F300 Z6.92 G1 F3000 E77.9224 G1 F600 X190.179 Y161.555 E77.92356 </code></pre> <p><strong>Snippit of not retracting for z-hop:</strong></p> <pre><code>G1 F1200 X204.473 Y161.666 E78.0239 G1 F300 Z7.12 ;MESH:NONMESH G0 F9000 X190.182 Y161.898 Z7.12 ;TIME_ELAPSED:2359.620803 ;LAYER:172 ;MESH:string_test_fast_pyramid.stl G0 X190.182 Y161.898 Z7.16 ;TYPE:WALL-INNER G1 F300 Z6.96 G1 F600 X190.182 Y161.558 E78.02503 </code></pre> <p>Test on the left is done with 'Equalize filament rate' enabled, on the right side is done with the option disabled.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hjoHu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hjoHu.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Any advice you can give as to what settings I am missing or misconfigured would be much appreciated.</p>

14111

Ultimaker Cura is not always retracting in exported G-Code

<p>It's likely that you're hitting Cura's Maximum Retraction Count (<code>retraction_count_max</code>) within the Minimum Extrusion Distance Window (<code>retraction_extrusion_window</code>). This is a misfeature supposedly designed to avoid grinding/flattening the filament, but of course acting on it will ruin your print in exactly the same way you're seeing. I think setting the window to 0 or the maximum count to some ridiculously high number like 1000000 will fix the problem.</p> <p>Note that it's exacerbated by the thin nozzle making the number of retractions needed take place over a much smaller extruder-axis move distance than what you'd have with a normal 0.4 mm nozzle. This is probably why nobody has noticed and complained about the badness of Cura's defaults here.</p>

2020-07-21T17:32:00.113

|3d-design|cnc|

<p>I hope this kind of questions are tolerated here. Otherwise, please tell me in the comment and I will delete the question - no needs to downvote.</p> <hr /> <p>For a new job I need to create a lot of objects like this one:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuGPX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DuGPX.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>To have an idea of the dimensions:</p> <ul> <li>height: 60 mm</li> <li>cylinder diameter: 12 mm</li> <li>inner hole: 3 mm</li> <li>lateral slots width (2 at 90 degress): 3 mm</li> </ul> <p>I'm able to make such an item with either a 3D printer or even a standard 4-axis CNC. But because I need to make 100+ of these items I wonder if there are something similar out there.</p> <p>But I have no idea of how it might be called. I tried with &quot;spacer with slots&quot; without any useful results.</p>

14113

Ready to use objects instead of 3D-printing them

<p>If your printer is reliable enough I would suggest printing multiple parts in one go. Since the cylinders are only 12 mm in diameter you can easily fit over a hundred of them on a standard 20 x 20 cm built plate with a couple of millimeters spacing in between.</p>

2020-07-22T00:34:25.727

|extrusion|bowden|monoprice-select-mini|

<p>I've had this MP Select Mini III for years and years. Lately it's consistently jamming/clogging somewhere between the hot end and the PTFE tubing - but not right away, often when it starts getting to the infill layers.</p> <p>If I don't catch it in time, the filament twists and twists until even the Bowden tube is clogged (and then it's a whole lot of trouble to clean out).</p> <p>My temperature has been wobbly of late, so I bumped the temps higher than usual (200-210 °C for PLA) thinking perhaps it was dipping low for a spell and allowing it to cool.</p> <p>Is this the end of the road for this cheap little guy that has been a solid workhorse or are there some known fixes that I should consider?</p>

14119

Filament consistently jamming / clogging in Bowden tube on MP mini 3

<p>If you have it for years, have you ever replaced the Bowden tubes and hotend liner? This printer might be in need of some dire maintenance.</p> <p>Also check if the Bowden tube is securely fixed, if infill starts, it might be retraction that is giving problems by lifting the tube alongside the rectracted filament.</p>

2020-07-23T12:23:04.443

|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|pla|

<p>I'm printing 6 separate parts in one go, after 4 hours of printing one part failed, but the other 5 are printing nicely.</p> <p>Is there a way to prevent the print from printing the failed part and continue printing the other 5 parts.</p> <p>I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 printer.</p>

14130

Is there a way to save a multi part print if one fails?

<p>In addition to the previously answered &quot;Exclude Region&quot; plugin for OctoPrint, the &quot;Cancel Object&quot; plugin for OctoPrint also works excellently.</p> <blockquote> <p><strong>Cancel single objects during a print based on code comment lines</strong></p> <p>This plugin allows the user to cancel single objects during a print while allowing the remaining objects to print normally. Instructions for use with compatible slicers are provided on the plugin’s GitHub Homepage.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSoO7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Cancel object plugin screenshot in OctoPrint"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSoO7.png" alt="Cancel object plugin screenshot in OctoPrint" title="Cancel object plugin screenshot in OctoPrint" /></a></p> </blockquote> <p>^{Source: <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/cancelobject/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint-Cancelobject</a>}</p>

2020-07-26T08:51:43.810

|g-code|

<p>In Cura, if you plug your favourite 3D Printer you will most likely get an option to Print via USB. If you have never heard of what I'm talking about, please see this video: <div class="youtube-embed"><div> <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4UKH9jCkJXA?start=0"></iframe> </div></div></p> <p>I wanted to know some information on how this works:</p> <ul> <li>Is the communication through UART or through Serial?</li> <li>How can I establish a connection to the 3D Printer?</li> <li>Is there a list of commands I am able to send?</li> <li>What is the default baudrate for 3D printers?</li> <li>How is the G-Code of the print sent to the 3D Printer?</li> </ul>

14141

How does 3D printing over USB work?

<p><strong>This is just a stub answer. I will try to expand on it later.</strong></p> <p>The 8-bit microcontrollers used on many 3D printers do not have a USB interface, and so a USB to serial interface chip is used to allow a computer to communicate with the serial port (UART) on the microcontroller. In order for the computer to communicate with the printer, a device driver is needed to allow the operating system to communicate with the <strong>interface chip</strong>.</p> <p>The appropriate device drivers should be supplied with your printer, and you should install these drivers before you try to do anything else. The drivers will make the printer look as if it has a serial interface, and the highest speed that most 8-bit microcontrollers can manage is 112800bps.</p> <p>If the software that you are using has a terminal interface, you can send any G-code commands to the printer. For a list of G-code commands, see <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><strong>here</strong></a>. Note that this list includes commands for CNC machines as well as 3D printers.</p> <p>For normal printing, G-code commands are sent to the printer using a print manager, such as Repetier-Host. Some slicers may have built-in print managers.</p>

2020-07-31T22:08:51.527

|3d-models|slicing|

<p>I am new to 3D printing and have a <em>Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2</em>. I wanted to be able to 3D-print <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203631" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this VR Adapter</a> from Thingiverse. Before downloading the Cura software, I tried opening the model in Print 3D, and as you can see in this picture, it appears that the model is just under 100 mm, which is well under the 120 mm limit of the MP Select Mini’s 120 mm×120 mm build plate:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBAmX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GBAmX.png" alt="Print3D Scale" /></a></p> <p>However, when I downloaded Cura and input the specs for the printer (120 mm for <em>x, y,</em> and <em>z</em> dimensions), the model appears to be much larger than the 120×120×120 area. The program tells me that the model is 132.5 mm × 180.6 mm × 36.6 mm:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLfJV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RLfJV.png" alt="Cura Scale" /></a></p> <p>I need the model to fit the controller for the Oculus Quest, so I can’t just scale it down. Can anyone tell me why I am seeing this discrepancy and how I can still print this model?</p>

14159

Unable to Determine Proper Print Scale of STL model

<p>The STL format does not define unit information. So there is no way of knowing, from a STL file alone, what size it should be.</p> <p>However there are only a handful of units people design with. So the unit is most likely one of inches, cm or mm. So if you inverse convert between those combinations you'll likely find the real size.</p> <p>Your image is somewhat inconclusive. But it seems to indicate your object is in fact larger than your bed. As it it is 18-19 pips of height and i would interpret each as 10 mm from the image. Which would indicate your model is correct.</p> <p>Split and glue? Print corner to corner you should have 207 mm length that way (but not necessarily width).</p>

2020-08-01T14:55:59.670

|stepper-driver|y-axis|x-axis|tmc2100|

<p>I had noisy DRV8825 drivers for my extruder E0 and X, Y, Z axes. I upgraded all to LV8729 drivers but they were still noisy, so I bought two TMC2100 drivers for the X and Y axes and two LV8729 for the Z axis and extruder E0. I updated Marlin (reversing endstops logic and choosing driver types) and I removed the jumpers under the driver pins. But my X and Y axis don't move; eventually the printer halts. What could be wrong?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAqe1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="TMC2100 driver"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RAqe1.jpg" alt="TMC2100 driver" title="TMC2100 driver" /></a></p>

14161

X and Y axes don't move after upgrading to TMC2100 drivers

<p>Steps/unit also must be modified. In my case these values made the printer run silent and smooth.</p> <pre><code>#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 200, 6160, 884 } </code></pre> <p>I set Max feed rate and Max acceleration as below:</p> <pre><code>#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 300, 300, 5, 25 } #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 300, 300, 100, 10000 } </code></pre>

2020-08-02T01:11:22.560

|creality-ender-3|hotend|e3d-v6|nylon|

<p>I'm new to this game, and recently upgraded the hotend on my Ender 3 Pro to a <em>clone</em> of an E3D V6, as I'm keen to do nylon prints at some point. I noticed however that this one I got has a teflon liner which seems to negate the advantage of a metal hotend entirely.</p> <p>I'm wondering what temperature it's safe to run this hot end up to?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Uth3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Teflon insert#2"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Uth3.jpg" alt="Teflon insert#1" title="Teflon insert#2" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QazJ2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Teflon insert#1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QazJ2.jpg" alt="Teflon insert#2" title="Teflon insert#1" /></a></p>

14162

Does a teflon insert in an E3D V6 clone limit it's useable temperature so it can't print nylon?

<p>Long story short, you can print Nylon with a Teflon tube. I've done it. P.S. The nylon absorbs water like nothing you've ever seen. Even after the part is printed, it absorbs water, and expands!</p>

2020-08-04T17:00:34.413

|slic3r|repetier|

<p>I'm pretty new to 3D printing. I am using Repetier Host 2.6 with Slic3r (printer Geeetech i3 Pro B).</p> <p>When I slice detailed models I get issues like this as the slice result:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bo8kq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Badly sliced model"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bo8kq.jpg" alt="Badly sliced model" title="Badly sliced model" /></a></p> <p>This is the model in the example, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2427014" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Army Men flames of war single version</a>.</p> <p>I can slice simple objects fine, walls, cubes 2D logos etc.</p> <p>Why is this doing this?</p> <p>When I used Cura the slice is fine.</p>

14182

Sliced object losing all detail in Cura

<p>This is not &quot;loosing details&quot;. What is is is this:</p> <p>You can not print on air. So, certain things (like the backpack) require SUPPORTS that are removed after printing. Another example is the gun.</p> <p>Your support setting force the slicer to set up quite a lot of supports and that is what you see - start removing them.</p> <p>There ALSO is a problem with possibly you using too large a nozzle. Depending on that one you may loose details, but there is not even the basic form visible on your picuture because all I see are supports.</p> <p><a href="https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-support-structures/#:%7E:text=3D%20printing%20support%20structures%20are,added%20cost%20to%20the%20model" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-support-structures/#:~:text=3D%20printing%20support%20structures%20are,added%20cost%20to%20the%20model</a>. exokauns supports.</p>

2020-08-05T04:06:47.540

|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|bed|

<p>I have an Ender 3 3d printer. It has a bed that wobbles because it came with only 1 bed support beam.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJKL6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Ender 3 bed plate support"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJKL6.jpg" alt="Ender 3 bed plate support" title="Ender 3 bed plate support" /></a></p> <p>Every model I print, I must print vertically, because the closer it gets to the edges of the build plate, the less adhesion it has.</p> <p>Is there anything I can to to fix this problem?</p>

14184

Bed wobbling on Ender 3

<p>If the V roller wheels aren't tight on the Y axis beam, it means the eccentric nuts are not adjusted correctly. Two of the rollers are mounted centered on the holes in the carriage frame, but the other two are on eccentric nuts which displace them from center slightly depending on the orientation the nut is turned to, to allow tightening and loosening of the grip on the beam. Since the Y axis ones are hard to see under the bed, look at the X or Z ones to get an idea what to expect.</p> <p>Note that the bolt through the whole roller assembly can loosen when adjusting the eccentric nut. You can probably avoid this by figuring out the right direction to turn it and only going that direction (continuing around just under 360 degrees if you go too far). If you do loosen the bolt then the eccentric nut will move on its own under vibration, so you need to re-tighten it. For the Y axis this might require taking off the bed or taking the carriage off the beam (by removing the belt and tensioner).</p>

2020-08-05T10:35:49.190

|printer-building|corexy|

<p>I am going to design and build a 3D printer. I want the highest quality and accuracy so nothing except that is important for me. Which cartesian design has the highest quality and accuracy? CoreXY, Prusa, or Gantry (Ultimaker)?</p> <p>Also, is it better to have a nozzle that moves in just direction &quot;X&quot;, directions &quot;X and Y&quot;, or &quot;X, Y and Z&quot;?</p>

14186

Which kinematic system has the highest quality?

<p>Just to clarify: Examples of kinematic systems would be Cartesian (which includes CoreXY), Delta, Scara, and Six-Axis. The quality of the system has less to do with the system and more to do with the implementation.</p> <p>Furthermore, there are 2 main types of desktop/benchtop 3d printers that are commonly available: Fused Deposition Modelling (or fused filament fabrication depending on who you ask) and stereolithography; of which the latter, stereolithography, has better accuracy and quality.</p> <p>In terms of FDM however, it can be easily argued that CoreXY cartesian printers offer the best quality and accuracy (both of which are subjective btw) than either delta or gantry designs (e.g. gantry would be the Prusa i3). The reason is that in order to get the CoreXY to work at all, the overall engineering and frame rigidity must be at a certain minimum. Once this minimum has been achieved, the quality of the prints typically meets or exceeds the quality/accuracy of even a well-tuned gantry printer; and you are going to see it in the cost of a CoreXY printer.</p>

2020-08-06T13:21:59.963

|abs|warping|

<p>I am printing small mechanical pieces in ABS:</p> <ul> <li>100 ºC bed temperature</li> <li>70 ºC Room temperature</li> <li>250 ºC nozzle temperature</li> <li>0.4 mm nozzle, at 0.15 mm per layer.</li> <li>100.8 % scale to compensate ABS dimensional innacuracy.</li> </ul> <p>The first layer is printed correctly, but later, corners warp and first 10 mm get deformed (See images).</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QsSPm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QsSPm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsummm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsummm.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>How do I solve this? Unfortunately, I cannot increase room temperature over 70 ºC</p> <p>Here is a picture while printing, we can see that the edges get warped even far over the first layer. (Sorry, the picture quality is not so good):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWjCG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWjCG.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

14199

How to solve ABS deformation at the bottom?

<p>We usually stick the masking tape on the printer's bottom plate, so that the model is formed on the side of the masking tape which without glue, which looks good. When there is no masking tape, we sometimes manually adjust the height of the bottom plate to make the nozzle appress to the bottom plate when printing the first layer. At this time, the melted material can hardly flow out. The strong pressure will adhere the material tightly to the bottom plate, which can effectively solve this problem. However, this may damage the extruder motor.</p>

2020-08-06T15:06:06.747

|chocolate|

<p>I need to make chocolate busts.</p> <p>Is it better to make silicon reverse of the bust and cast the bust or directly print it using chocolate printer (I prefer cost and process speed over quality)? I don't have chocolate printer so if this method will be better I will need to use some 3D printing service.</p> <p>I need to make quite a large amount of the busts.</p>

14200

Chocolate printing vs casting?

<p>For your application, you should 3d print a positive model, then make a silicone mould negative of that model. Then use the silicone mould to make the final chocolate. Clean the silicone thoroughly before initial use. Fill gaps in the 3d printed model with a light epoxy resin. Use mould release and ensure you wash and sterilize that silicon mould before using it with chocolate.</p> <p>An actual chocolate printer is not easy to come by, as a normal 3d printer converted to use chocolate is not able to be sterilized for food use. The video in the link illustrates one person's attempt at this process. <div class="youtube-embed"><div> <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oRBxuDvS2gs?start=0"></iframe> </div></div></p>

2020-08-07T08:15:38.650

|3d-design|mechanics|

<p>I'm trying to model the threads of a &quot;Poland Spring&quot; 500 ml bottle so I can 3D print an adapter for it. But I can't find information about it. I emailed them but they said they didn't have the information.</p> <p>How can I find this information out?</p> <p>The bottle seems to use non standard threads. It uses 3 threads 120 degrees apart that does not go all the way around. Any information on how to get this information?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEnwV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEnwV.png" alt="bottle" /></a></p>

14206

Converting / measuring bottle threads for creating an adapter to it

<p>It's really unlikely that a bottle is using nonstandard threads; the engineering and tooling cost for doing so would not make sense. Most plastic drink bottles use PCO 1881 or PCO 1810 threads. If not, it should be one of a number of other less widely used standards.</p> <p>The industry term for drink bottle thread is &quot;neck finish&quot;. Searching on that, or on one of the standard names like PCO 1881, will find you a lot of information. You can then try to find a match for your threads. Note that the breaks 120 degrees apart do not affect the thread design, and may or may not be part of the neck finish standard, so you can ignore them.</p> <p>There are existing OpenSCAD libraries for some of these, including</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://github.com/adrianschlatter/threadlib#list-of-supported-threads" rel="noreferrer">threadlib</a></li> <li><a href="https://github.com/MisterHW/IoP-satellite" rel="noreferrer">IoP-satellite</a></li> </ul> <p>And some related articles on Hackaday about their development and use:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://hackaday.com/2020/07/12/learn-the-secrets-of-matching-bottle-cap-threads-to-one-another/" rel="noreferrer">Learn The Secrets Of Matching Bottle Cap Threads To One Another</a></li> <li><a href="https://hackaday.io/page/5252-generating-nice-threads-in-openscad" rel="noreferrer">Generating Nice Threads in OpenSCAD</a></li> </ul>

2020-08-09T21:17:50.250

|extruder|hotend|dual-nozzle|

<p>Does anyone know of a hot end that is sealed? What I meaning is that the hot end has a rubber seal where the filament enters to keep the top airtight (in order to eliminate oozing).</p> <p>I am looking to build a dual extruder printer but, I do not want any oozing from the hot end which is not in use. I could build a system to retract and 'close' the nozzle but it would be much more elegant if it would work to just seal the top of the hot end. Thus achieving the same effect as when you pull up water with a straw by covering the top with your finger.</p>

14221

Is there such thing as a sealed dual extruder hot end?

<p>In a true dual-extruder / dual hot-end printer, having a seal isn't necessary.</p> <p>On my dual-extruder printer, the non-active extruder does an aggressive retraction and then drops the hot-end temp down to a <em>stand by</em> temperature which is lower than the melting point of the filament. Because it had an aggressive retraction ... and it's cooling ... the filament doesn't seem to ever make it out before it has cooled to the point where the filament drops below the melting point. While there is no 'seal' ... it doesn't ooze.</p> <p>The slicer software (I use Cura) estimates the time remaining before the extruder needs to become active and will start to pre-heat the hot-end so that there wont be much (if any) delay. Once the extruder becomes active, it will re-prime and will usually move to a prime tower to get the filament flowing again ... while the other nozzle (the one that just became inactive) does a retraction and starts cooling down.</p> <p>With this technique of retracting and lowering the inactive hot-end to a standby temperature, I have never personally experienced an issue with oozing.</p>

2020-08-11T23:45:21.013

|hotend|abs|tevo-tornado|

<p>The insulation of the heater block got pulled off...</p> <p>I was trying to print ABS on my TEVO Tornado, overnight. But I not-so-smartly left the window open overnight, thinking it was alright (as to remove the fumes) but then it warped so much that it pulled off the insulation of the hotend.</p> <p>It is no longer heating up to over 200 degrees Celcius. It starts showing a message saying <code>PRINTER HALTED: PLEASE RESET</code> Should I just re-insulate it? if I should, what do I use for insulation?</p>

14238

Is nozzle no longer heating up correctly related to hotend insulation being pulled off?

<p>Yes I had this same problem myself.</p> <p>You will need to re-insulate it using a silicone block and next time don't leave the window open while printing. Just keep the fan or AC on to circulate the air.</p>

2020-08-12T01:11:45.453

|creality-ender-3|metal-printing|filled-pla|

<p>I am thinking about getting into the 3D printing craze and currently looking at purchasing a Creality Ender 3 V2 as an entry-level unit. I would like to print using the normal PLA, PETG, ABS, etc. but I'm also thinking of metal-infused PLA or similar for printing jewelry. The suggested modification that I have found in researching is the <a href="https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/creality-cr-10/products/all-metal-hotend-kit-for-cr-10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend</a> in order to reach the higher temps for printing metals.<br /> Am I correct with this additional mod? Are there other Hotends that would better? Any additional mods for working with metals?</p>

14239

Additional mods for printing metal filled filament with Ender 3 V2?

<p>There is a lot of misinformation in the 3D printing world about &quot;all-metal hotends&quot; being an upgrade. Some of them, especially clones, are not even all-metal but just poor lookalikes that create all sorts of problems. But even if you get a real one, it's a <em>trade-off</em>, not an upgrade. It lets you print materials that need a hotend temperature over 250 °C (over which the PTFE liner will begin to degrade and possibly release small amounts of harmful gasses) up to the temperature your heating element can achieve, at the cost of losing the extremely-low-friction PTFE pathway all the way to the nozzle, which aids with smooth extrusion and retraction and avoids jams. Depending on your particular all-metal hotend, it may be harder to get retraction working correctly than with a normal PTFE-lined one. Some users report very good results, others lots of problems.</p> <p>There are very few materials that need temperatures over 250 °C to print that don't also need a much more expensive machine (or at least a heavily-modified one) for other reasons, such as requirement of a high-temperature enclosure. The main materials that can be printed on an Ender 3 with an all-metal hotend but not the standard PTFE-lined hotend are polycarbonate (needing 255-300 °C) and some forms of nylon (which may need up to 250-270 °C). All the other non-exotic materials, including PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU, and even some exotic ones like POM (aka delrin or acetal) and many nylons, can be printed just fine with a stock Ender 3 (possibly with a minimal enclosure built around it).</p> <p>In particular, for the purpose you want - printing metal-infused PLA - there is no point whatsoever in an all-metal hotend. Metal-infused PLA is printed within the temperature range of PLA, which is typically 230 °C at the absolute highest (and preferably much lower) and the printer you're looking at should print it just fine out-of-the-box (or rather, once you assemble it).</p> <p>If you're concerned about abrasive wear from the filament, this affects the nozzle not the hotend. Technically the nozzle is &quot;part of&quot; the hotend assembly, but it's easily removable and generally considered a consumable item that you replace periodically. You can get hardened steel nozzles and all sorts of other exotic replacements designed not to wear out from abrasive materials, but the standard brass has the best thermal (heat conduction) properties and is so cheap you're generally better off sticking with it and buying a pack of 20 or so to have on hand when they eventually need replacement. In any case, there's no need to replace the hotend with an all-metal one to deal with nozzle wear; you can get either type of replacement to fit the original one.</p>

2020-08-12T15:55:59.250

|monoprice-select-mini|microsd|

<p>I have an MP Select Mini V2 and when I turn on the printer and select the &quot;print&quot; menu it hangs while saying &quot;please wait&quot; instead of listing the <code>.gcode</code> files stored on the SD card.</p> <p>I have been using that printer with that SD card for hundreds of prints without error. It started when I took it out and added a new <code>.gcode</code> file (sliced in Cura with the same settings as I always use) and placed it back into the printer to print it. When I connect the SD card into my computer (Windows 10) everything seems normal with the card.</p> <p>What could be causing this issue?</p>

14244

"print" menu not loading on Monoprice MP Select Mini V2

<p><strong>Too many files on SD card</strong></p> <p>I removed some files and now it works, it seems like the menu would not load if the SD card contained more files than the printer could display on the print menu (they didn't take up a lot of space in memory, though).</p>

2020-08-13T02:50:15.843

|diy-3d-printer|sla|resin|dlp|lcd-screen|

<p>I'm trying to develop a device to burn a glass slide surface with a special pattern of UV light (between 300 nm and 360 nm) in a 5 cm square surface.</p> <p>I've read several threads asking questions about LCD printers and their way of functioning but I am not entirely sure how they work. So far I have found two methods that explain LCD printers:</p> <ol> <li><p>The LCD screen emits light in UV spectrum that causes the resin to cure. <em>I don't believe there are any LCD screens that can emit at 360 nm.</em></p> </li> <li><p>Initially there's a UV light bulb 'behind' the LCD screen which is translucent when off. The pattern is drawn in the LCD screen interfering with UV light's path drawing the image in the plate.</p> </li> </ol> <p>If option two is the right one, do you know any devices (uv light and lcd screen) to develop what I want within the 360 nm wavelength?</p> <p>Alternatively, can a DLP projector to emit UV light (by adding a UV light bulb)? Would it still need to be cured?</p>

14248

LCD/DLP resin curing system

<p>It's almost always what you call system 2:</p> <p>The LCD screen is acting as a &quot;mask&quot; for the UV backlight, which is a strong bulb under it. This also is the reason that the screen degrades over time and that the machines need replacement bulbs: the heat from the UV source burns out the screen and itself over time. Both parts are consumable, just like the screen.</p> <p>You could technically swap out the light source for any one that fits the machine. However, a 360 nm light source won't help you for printing resins at all: most resins you can buy cure between <a href="http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/images/2019/11/14/80d8588c5aee444394470641dd5d5c09.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">395 and 410 nm</a>.</p> <p>Yes, even by curing with an UV light source, you need to post-cure the print. The reason for that is to get rid of any uncured, not washed away resin that still sticks to the surface and that a 3D print right of the platform actually isn't cured fully - especially the inter-layer-bonds are not formed fully and curing in the lightbox increases the stability to the print a lot.</p>

2020-08-14T12:41:14.197

|resin|creality-ld-002r|

<p>I have stuck resin print that won't detach from the bed of my Creality LD-002R LCD Printer. I guess I could break the print off piece by piece, but it won't budge with pressure, pulling with all my strength, or even hitting it pretty hard.</p>

14250

How do I remove a stuck resin print

<p>There are generally 3 ways, in order of least to most desirable, and at times you need to combine them in an escalation:</p> <ul> <li>Toss the vat. This is the most expensive and generally should only be the last resort, for example, if you damage your film.</li> <li>Careful Brute Force. This can damage the film, but carefully getting a wedge between the film and the print might be the only option to remove the last bits sticking to the film. If you have to resort to this, <strong>take your time</strong>.</li> <li>Using thermal expansion. We all know that materials expand when you heat them. The reverse is also true: materials shrink if you cool them. Different materials shrink differently. So by cooling the vat with as little liquid resin and the print inside can lead to the print 'popping' free, just like in an FDM printer. Note however that this might not work on its own in case you made a suction cup (then you need to resort to brute force or drill a hole into the top), and you should take <strong>extreme caution not to contaminate any food with resin</strong>, as the stuff is not safe for consumption at all. With the right setup, you might be able to heat the build plate carefully while the print itself is kept cool.</li> </ul>

2020-08-14T21:07:15.707

|resin|

<p>With resin LCD printers (not filament!), what are the considerations to choose between PLA and &quot;water soluble&quot;? Microcenter carries resins from esun in these two types, and their spec sheets indicate that tyhe water-soluble type has higher tensile strength and other mechanical properties. Which leads me to wonder, under what circumstances one selects PLA then?</p>

14251

Resin types: Water Soluble vs PLA

<p>First of all, let's look at what the filaments are:</p> <h2>PLA &amp; PVA Filaments</h2> <p>Normal <a href="http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_eSUN_PLA%20filament.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PLA</a> and Water-soluble <a href="http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_eSUN_PVA%20filament.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PVA</a> contain for the most part the material on the tin, its precursors, and possibly some modifiers. These are only suitable for thermoplastic processes like injection molding or FDM/FFF (Filament deposition modeling/Fused Filament Fabrication) printers - the finished polymer can't be made back into a UV-curable resin easily. Both materials are chemically rather well bonded and are not very reactive at all. They are biodegradable and not a lot of toxic waste. PLA needs <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7866/8884">very strong chemicals such as dichlormethane</a> to go into solution, but PVA is water-soluble.</p> <h2>Resin</h2> <p>Almost no cured resin (as in post-polymerized) is water-soluble, your webshop might have a misnomer as it meant to write the proper name: water-washable, which is meant to reflect the ability to put the unpolymerized <em>monomers</em> into solution in water.</p> <h3>eResin</h3> <p>eSun offers an eResin-PLA-Bio-Photopolymer, which is <em>similar</em> to PLA, but it is <strong>not the same material</strong> you get for an FDM printer. You see this most easily by checking the density <a href="http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_eSUN_LCD%20eResin-PLA.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">and the MSDS</a>: Real PLA has a density of 1.21–1.43 g/cm³, eResin (as the bottles are labeled) has a density of merely 1.07-1.13 g/cm³. This is a totally different material in the bottle! It is most likely a resin mix that is based on lactic acid monomers and a UV-active acid that can bond the monomers, creating a structure that does contain lactic acid groups and the binder - but most certainly it is not chemically identical to PLA. It contains, according to the MSDS, <a href="https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/25035-69-2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Polyurethane acrylate</a> as the 'binder', <a href="https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/13048-33-4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">1,6-Hexanediol diacrylate Monomers</a>, and about 10 % photo inhibitors and pigments. The main selling point seems to be, that comparable to PLA, it would be made from a renewable source to a larger part. The chemical reaction that leads to the completed resin is a question I have pitched on <a href="https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin">Chemistry.SE</a>.</p> <p>It needs to be cleaned with IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or another organic solvent like any standard resin and you are not allowed to rinse the material into the sewer: it is classed as a <code>LONG-TERM AQUATIC HAZARD - Category 4</code> and its MSDS contains:</p> <blockquote> <p>Solubility：Soluble in ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzene and other organic solvents, insoluble in water</p> </blockquote> <h3>water-washable eSun Resin</h3> <p>eSun offers no water-soluble resin at all, they offer a <strong>water washable</strong> resin, which means that it is supposed to be less toxic than standard resin and safe to rinse effectively without IPA, creating less toxic waste in the process. The MSDS for this is not (yet)) available so I can't evaluate this. However, I have requested the MSDS for the evaluation of safety procedures needed and hope to hear back from them soon. This resin is most certainly not PVA, but it seems to be chemically somewhat similar to their other resins.</p>

2020-08-15T14:36:13.300

|build-plate|resin|build-surface|

<p>I have an anycubic photon, and occasionally have trouble removing prints from the build plate. While trying to removing prints I've put some scratches into the surface, as I guess I've come in at the wrong angle trying to get under and leverage the print. Typical examples I've seen of people removing prints, they appear to come at it hard with a blunt edge. I've come across scrapers that are blunt and some with a sharper edges.</p> <p>I've put a bit more a ding into my plate today, using a scraper with more of a blade edge for a difficult to remove print. I had used the same scrapper before with great success, as it slide right under and I could leverage the print, but struggled with it today and scratched up my plate. I haven't come across much discussion on this so thought I'd ask about scratches to the build plates.</p> <p>Are scratches to the build plate something to be concerned about, is it something that it expected when removing prints?</p>

14257

Resin printer build plate scratches/ damage

<p><a href="https://forum.formlabs.com/t/scrapes-on-build-platform/17203/12" rel="nofollow noreferrer">One of the resources</a> I've found is a forum with a discussion of the impact of scratches.</p> <p>The general consensus is that scratches are not a problem, as long as there are no burrs above the surface of the plate that would damage the bottom of the vat. One posting party has used 36 grit on a palm sander followed by scotchbrite pad to resurface his plate, but one takes the risk of creating an out-of-plane surface.</p> <p>A better method to sand a plate would be to place the sandpaper on a glass surface or something equally flat and planar and pass the build plate repeatedly over that.</p> <p>Another aspect of the discussion was that scratches are good, as the rough surface provides a better bond to the resin.</p> <p>You're likely to note that your build plate is not a polished smooth surface for the same reason.</p>

2020-08-15T18:28:53.073

|3d-models|3d-design|print-orientation|

<p>first time here.</p> <p>I recently bought an Anycubic Mega S and I'm venturing in the 3D world. Lots to learn for sure. I have printed a few items so far and all went pretty well.</p> <p>My question is about something that caught my attention while browsing on Thingiverse. I was looking for an organizer for a board game that I have and every option I found there shows the piece in a vertical position rather than horizontal which seems like the natural position of the piece.</p> <p>I would like to know why most of this types of pieces are set to be printed in a vertical position rather than horizontal.</p> <p>Here is the original piece <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949421" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Betrayal at Baldur's Gate Organizer</a> by <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/playfutbol2/designs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Jason Patch</a>. As you can see in the image below the piece is naturally horizontal but the actual files to print (blue ones) are all vertical.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vik4M.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vik4M.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>PS.: I didn't really know which tags to use so I just added 3D, feel free to suggest any other I will happily edit it. :)</p>

14259

Vertical vs Horizontal shapes printing

<p>When I design parts in CAD software I pick a starting plane and go from there. And that starting plane doesn't correspond to how the part is designed to be printed. That usually comes later.</p>

2020-08-18T15:07:28.153

|resin|

<p>After a resin print completes, what is the expected process to finish the print? Is some cleaning expected? I also some manufacturers sell UV chambers to cure the print surface, is this required?</p> <p>I purchased a low-cost printer from China that is quite high-quality hardware, but sadly short on documentation. Insight on the proper post-print process is appreciated.</p>

14275

Curing a resin print

<p>You don't really need a UV curing chamber but wash it with 99 % isopropyl alcohol and put it in bright sun, this should do the trick!!</p>

2020-08-19T09:15:30.170

|3d-models|slicing|sla|elegoo-mars|

<p>I'm pretty new in the 3D printing world, and there are some doubts that have come my way and I've not been able to find anywhere.</p> <p>Usually, I'm going to try to print pieces bigger than the bed of my Elegoo Mars Pro (which is 115 x 65 x 150 mm, so it's pretty small). Everywhere I try to look at this they are talking about Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers, and I guess that material will make the answer to these questions to be different, that's why I'm asking here. <strong>All of these questions are focused on SLA printers.</strong></p> <h2>Is there any kind of technique / slicer software to be able to print those pieces by parts?</h2> <p>I've read about slicers, but there seem to be a bunch of them, and some of them work best with some printers than others, and have different features but I haven't seen any that helps in this matter.</p> <p>Also, I've seen the typical plane cut, but this doesn't make it easy later on to &quot;fit&quot; pieces. I would need some kind of female - male joint. Is there any (free) slicer that helps in that, and makes those joints to be accurate and solid?</p> <p>Thank you!</p> <hr /> <p>I removed the &quot;shrink size&quot; part in the question and published it <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14283/curated-resin-size-shrink-and-methods-to-reduce-it">as a separate question</a>. Also moved <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14284/sla-resin-post-processing-gluing-parts-together">to a different question</a> &quot;gluing separate pieces&quot; part.*</p>

14280

Printing and slicing big pieces with Elegoo Mars (Pro)

<p>I actually found it easier to export my model as a single STL file, and then to open up 3D builder. It has a tool that let's you create a flat plane, and then slice a model into pieces using it.</p> <p>So long as you have a large enough surface area to glue, it shouldn't be a problem.</p> <p>I tried using booleans and the peg\hole method in Blender, but it simply wasn't stable enough with complex models.</p> <p>Where I have used pegs and hole I used round pegs or the simple reason that they are easier to sand down to the right size if they deform and are too tight a fit.</p>

2020-08-19T12:06:53.827

|post-processing|sla|

<p>I've recently purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro 3d printer, and I was wondering when printing large pieces that need to be printed in different steps: is there some kind of post-processing to make it more suitable for gluing them?</p> <p>I know of joints and so on, but sometimes pieces are big but not thick enough to be able to put a joint somewhere, so I guess the only solution would be to glue them.</p> <p>Should I use some kind of specific glue to get better results with resins? Is there any process (post-processing, reducing layer height when printing, leave the resin being curated more time...) to improve the sticking of the different parts? Or can we go with any kind of &quot;strong multisurface glue&quot; without any further post-processing steps, and the results should be the same in matters of quality?</p> <p>Thank you!</p>

14284

SLA resin post-processing: gluing parts together

<p>As I learned after <a href="https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin">asking about the chemistry of a 3D printing Resin</a>, the material uses radical polymerisation to get a well connected, branched copolymer. It is comparable to resin cast material but more brittle. So let's look, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723/what-glues-for-pla">akin to the PLA-gluing question</a>, what we can do!</p> <h2>Step 0: Safety First!</h2> <p>Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resins, cyanoacrylate) or have irritating or flamagle fumes (heated cyanoacrylate).</p> <p><strong>Use proper protection</strong> when working with these! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!</p> <h2>Preparations</h2> <p>For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: very lightly sand it to increase the surface area, don't touch the prints with bare hands to prevent fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!</p> <h2>Glues</h2> <p>As a result of the chemistry I would suggest the following glues:</p> <ul> <li>The resin itself! Carefully applying a thin layer of the printing resin onto the cured parts and then pressing the parts together before letting it cure again will get you a good bond that might not even be visible as you have exactly the same material. Note though, that you might be able to assemble the part between washing and curing for absolute minimal visibility of the gluing surface and maximum bonding. Also note, that for a non-transparent resin (fully opaque to 400 nm light) you'd better look for a different gluing system, as the bond will be much weaker if it can harden only at the edge.</li> <li>Cyanoacrylate, aka Superglue. This glue is pretty much a one-serves-all, though it might cloud your surface. Also, not all superglues are the same, and some might work better than others or store differently. <ul> <li>Together with talcum powder, CA glue can fill gaps easily.</li> <li>CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much, if breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!</li> </ul> </li> <li>2-phase epoxy or <a href="http://www.adhesives.org/adhesives-sealants/adhesives-sealants-overview/adhesive-technologies/chemically-curing/two-component-(2-c)/urethane-adhesives" rel="nofollow noreferrer">polyurethane</a>. Another <em>glues everything</em> category, that should work rather well. The epoxy bonds are harder, the polyurethane ones are a little more flexible, but both bond very well with cured resin. As resin prints don't really deform under heat, you might take even faster-curing types.</li> <li>2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like <a href="https://www.games-workshop.com/en-FI/Green-Stuff" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Green Stuff</a> or <a href="https://www.milliput.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Miliputt</a>, which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like <a href="http://www.pattex.de/do-it-yourself-mit-pattex-klebstoffe-produkte-new/pattex-klebstoffe/reparaturkleber/repair-express.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pattex Repair</a>^{sorry, no English site for this} or <a href="http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-repair-all-powerkitt-1.html?cHash=e0f929a3ec974e591e89c5e1987a30ab&amp;step=70" rel="nofollow noreferrer">UHU Repair All Powerkitt</a> harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.</li> </ul> <h2>Other methods?</h2> <p>Unlike PLA, we can <strong>not</strong> use thermic methods to add inserts, friction-weld or weld/solder two parts together as <strong>Resin prints are generally not thermoplastic.</strong></p>

2020-08-19T21:00:18.697

|post-processing|resin|safety|cleaning|disposal|

<p>I've purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro recently, and I've been watching hundreds of video of all kind of processes, and everyone tells the same: resin is toxic, so you should cure it before throwing it to the trash, otherwise it must be treated as toxic waste.</p> <p>But I've not been able to find anything with &quot;things that are contaminated with it&quot;. For example, if I touch with some paper the resin, I guess that I should let it cure in the sun (like putting it in a plastic box and let it cure, maybe?).</p> <p>But how about the IPA? <strong>How do I treat the rests of IPA contaminated with uncured resin?</strong> I don't think leaving something flammable into the sunlight during some hours is the best I can do (maybe I'm wrong and it's totally safe?).</p> <p>Also, are resins water-washable (<a href="https://www.amazon.es/ELEGOO-Impresora-Fotopol%C3%ADmero-Est%C3%A1ndar-Impresi%C3%B3n/dp/B07XPM32JR/ref=pd_lpo_328_t_1/259-8458092-2588217?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07XPM32JR&amp;pd_rd_r=bbbafdaf-a07e-488f-92f1-31526c498665&amp;pd_rd_w=FJMai&amp;pd_rd_wg=JqCiC&amp;pf_rd_p=4221015a-01c7-4a3d-a84d-985d938e9995&amp;pf_rd_r=J73FX4T2KBPWQAP6MPFX&amp;refRID=J73FX4T2KBPWQAP6MPFX&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like this one from Elegoo</a>) as toxic as the rest? <strong>Can I wash them in the faucet</strong>, or should I use a plastic recipient with just water and wash them there? What do I do with it once I finish? May I throw it into the bath, or let it cure into the sunlight, or...?</p> <p>Hope this helps me and some others to treat resin disposals as they should be! Thank you!</p>

14291

SLA printers: safety with resin contaminated disposals

<p>The IPA with the resin in it is a chemical waste and toxic to nature. As such, it needs to be given to a chemical waste handler. But those handlers do charge by volume, so you need to find a way to handle volumes reasonably. On the one hand, this means to not use huge volumes for washing the prints but reasonably small batches, and on the other hand to try to saturate them as much as possible before giving them to disposal.</p> <p>It is not safe to leave the IPA in the sun or close to a source of flame, and it would certainly be not a good idea to try to torch the IPA to try to reduce the volume, but you might manage to try to concentrate the toxic waste if you might have access to a vacuum distillation apparatus - the IPA would be able to be distilled over to be reused while the original material would end concentrated.</p> <p>At the moment I am waiting for an MSDS of eSun's Water-Washable resin, but the <a href="https://elegoo.com/tutorial/ELEGOO%20Water%20Washable%20Resin%20MSDS%20Report%20by%20SGS.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Eleegoo one</a> is available, and it reads that it is classed as &quot;Aquatic Chronic Class 2&quot; - that's better than the Class 4 which IPA-washing resins have, but it is still not Sewer-safe: <code>Do not allow product to reach sewage system or any water source</code>. However, water is much less of a dangerous base for the waste than IPA, making it easier to handle. This mixture too needs to go to a chemical waste handler or be made inert but the waste also can be concentrated with less danger than IPA using a similar apparatus (cold distilling out water) or even a dedicated waste cookpot/evaporation vat that is exposed to heat - though you clearly should do this in a chemical-grade air filtration unit to mitigate the chance of resin fumes escaping into the atmosphere or your work environment if you heat it more than some. The dissolved resin might not be able to cure anymore as the photoinitiator might be used up during it evaporating.</p>

2020-08-20T06:47:28.257

|sla|safety|resin|food|

<p>I've actually read that resin printed parts are not food-safe in <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7h834s/how_safe_is_cured_sla_resin_for_indirect_food/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Reddit</a> and <a href="https://formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Formlabs guide</a>. However, it also says that <strong>food-safe can be achieved applying some kind of food-safe coat</strong> to the printed parts, or even <strong>printing with ceramic resin</strong>.</p> <p>As an owner of a Elegoo Mars Pro, I've searched for the second - <strong>ceramic resin - and I've found nothing</strong>, so I guess it's only suited for more expensive and professional printers.</p> <p>But regarding the food-safe coatings, is there any recommendation on <strong>which and how to apply them</strong> for resin printed objects? Is there any other way to achieve food-safe resin printed parts? Maybe are there food-safe resins, even though they may be more expensive (I haven't been able to find any)?</p> <p>The scenarios I think that have to be considered are four:</p> <ul> <li>Prints to be used for <strong>liquids</strong>: like mugs and coffee cups, or recipients to hold drinks in the fridge, for example.</li> <li>Prints to be used for <strong>solids</strong>: just recipients to put dried fruits, nuts, olives...</li> <li>Prints to be used while eating, which some <strong>tools</strong> <strong>may interact</strong> with: plates, bowls, which will be in contact with knifes, forks, and some other material that could scratch it.</li> <li>Prints to be <strong>in contact with the mouth</strong>: this would be maybe a mix of the other, but would include forks, spoons, mugs...</li> </ul> <p>I guess that the cleaning and maintenance will depend on the process to make them food-safe.</p> <hr /> <p>I've been searching for the net, and I've found these kind of epoxy resins. I see people use them and say it's food-safe, but I cannot see it stated anywhere. Maybe are those what I'm looking for? Maybe not because some of them are for wood (maybe they can be used in other suraces, too?)? Some samples:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.amazon.es/disponibles-Fantasy-TRANSPARENTE-perfecto-bicomponente/dp/B07L78WZ9Z/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=resina%20epoxi%20comida&amp;qid=1598011018&amp;s=tools&amp;sr=1-3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fantasy craft</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.artresin.com/pages/artresin-europe" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Art Resin</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.amazon.es/componentes-Cristal-Transparente-laminar-adhesivo/dp/B07S2WDMNB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=resina%20epoxi%20comida&amp;qid=1598011018&amp;s=tools&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUUc0WFpFUVlRQlE1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDMyNTUwMjRHUDJGTEE3NUFXWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzc1MzEyMk82TUpWU00yS1JRWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dipoxy resin</a></li> </ul> <p>Hope to find a little bit of knowledge to increase safety when printing some parts and being careful about the different applications that our prints may have.</p> <p>Thank you!</p>

14294

SLA printers: food-safe resin parts

<h2>Resin basics</h2> <p>Resins are tricky, but probably <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6941/8884">less tricky than FDM</a> as the manufacturing process is much less likely to include contaminants in the shape of contaminated air, particles, or adding lead into the print. This is all due to the whole process of creating the polymer happening under the protection of the resin, which in its monomeric liquid state is so toxic that it is unlikely any bacteria can survive in it. But before going out on a spending spree, you need to be aware that there are basically 3 kinds of resins on the market, only one of them is for SLA. To know exactly what you get you'd need to read the MSDS, which is usually available by the manufacturer of the resin.</p> <ul> <li>Two-component resins as you found in the lower half of the question. You might know them as Epoxy or Polyurethane resins. They have a base material and a hardener, sometimes called Component A and B. If mixed <em>perfectly</em>, they cure fully, neither hardener nor resin remains. This means it is chemically inert.</li> <li>Air-curing resins. These two come as Polyurethanes and also Acrylates and you might know them better under the terms paint, lacquer or coating.</li> <li>Light-cured resins, as you find them in SLA resins and all coatings that are not air-curing. These are for SLA a strange chemical mixture of a photoinitiator and then some monomers that create a copolymer while coatings can be as easy as having some initiators and the rest is a single type of monomer.</li> </ul> <h2>Food safety?</h2> <p>There are some resins is on <a href="http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=177" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the list of FDA approved plastics</a> for food contact. The list is exclusive: if your plastic doesn't fit one of the listed ones, you can not use it. One example would be <a href="https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1555" rel="nofollow noreferrer">polyacrylate</a>, which is defined as being &quot;formed by melt polycondensation of bisphenol-A with diphenylisophthalate and diphenylterephthalate&quot; - which excludes any other method of getting a polyacrylate and it prescribes exactly what basic materials are allowed.</p> <p>As a result, many two-component resins and light-cured resins that don't match the exact chemistry and method to create an approved plastic/coating will not match the FDA approval list and won't get approval <em>on their own</em>.</p> <h2>Coating</h2> <p>But there is often a way out by applying a proper coating, for example with a sufficiently thick food-grade <a href="https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1680" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Polyurethane coating</a> for dry foods. This would render the item <em>food safe</em> under FDA standards for the approved appication. You'd need to adhere to the proper method to apply this coating (manufacturers add those to the labeling usually), which can at times be somewhat complicated.</p> <h2>Insert</h2> <p>Another way might be to add an insert that does follow FDA standards, for example, a steel cup for liquids.</p>

2020-08-20T15:21:07.623

|troubleshooting|anet-a8|x-axis|

<p>I've recently noticed that the pulley driving the X-axis belt on my Anet A8 is wobbling quite a lot. I took out my calipers and sure enough the hole wasn't centred. I ordered a new pulley (from a <a href="https://www.banggood.com/Anet-GT2-Pulley-16-Teeth-Bore-5MM-Timing-Gear-Alumium-For-GT2-Belt-Width-6MM-3D-Printer-Accessories-p-1036136.html?rmmds=myorder&amp;cur_warehouse=CN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">different manufacturer</a>) which arrived today but it was also wobbling, though much less than my old one.</p> <p>The X-axis motor does not appear to wobble at all, I've tried placing a straight object up against the shaft and ran the motor and could not perceive and wobble at all in the motor, so I know it's not the motor. Before I start ordering more of the same part I wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem or if I'm doing something else wrong (for example if the uncentered pulley is a feature and there's some magical way to mount the belt pulley onto the motor to make sure it does not wobble). My guess is that I've just ordered cheap scrap parts and need to order something more expensive.</p> <p>Here is a link to a video of the wobble: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkyxN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkyxN.jpg</a></p>

14295

Anet A8 X axis drive-gear wobble

<p>There are several possible causes for this. From least to worst:</p> <ul> <li>The part itself is good, but the faceing cover plate is misaligned. No action needed.</li> <li>The part is mounted in a way that makes it wobble, re-mounting helps.</li> <li>The part is bad and needs to be replaced.</li> </ul> <p>So, let's see the anatomy of a Timing Belt pulley. They exist in basically 3 general types in the McMaster Carr catalog: One flange, two flanges, no flanges. I am not affiliated with them, but they are pretty much one of the parts vendors in the industry that has almost everything, making them the <em>convenience</em> option. In the mantra, they are the &quot;fast-good&quot; option with the &quot;everything&quot; bonus and that the catalog of parts with 3D is integrated into fusion360. A similar supplier would be RS.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1llaS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1llaS.png" alt="MXL pulleys, McMaster Carr Catalog" /></a> <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/timing-belt-pulleys/for-maximum-belt-width%7E6-mm/for-shaft-diameter%7E5mm/" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdTk6.png" alt="The fitting part, one-flanged variant." /></a></p> <p>The part OP ordered is the &quot;With One Flange&quot; design, it is 6mm wide, 5mm axle and 16 teeth. The McMaster Carr catalog has two very close matches to OP's part: 3684N11 &amp; 3684N12, about 6$ for a part machined from a solid piece. Why is that relevant?! well, the part OP ordered is not made from a solid piece but at least two parts: the body and one flange plate, as you can see on the product picture - the plate separation I marked with yellow here:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IX5Sd.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IX5Sd.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>This is where the first error appears: if the flange isn't mounted centered (in poor quality it is rarely) then it appears to wobble but actually doesn't. But the video shows that the axis seems to be straight, while both the front <em>and</em> backside of the pulley wobble in the XY position. This means it is not just the flange that is mis-mounted on the part.</p> <p>Now, error number 2 is misaligned mounting. In case the bore is good, you can often fix a misalignment by removing the part and mounting it again, more carefully, possibly using some thin shim metal around the axis. In some cases there is a pair of screws already to do this, if not it can help to modify the part with one or two extra alignment screws, allowing to sift the gear's center a slight bit by tensioning the additional screws.</p> <p>In the case of <a href="https://www.banggood.com/Anet-GT2-Pulley-16-Teeth-Bore-5MM-Timing-Gear-Alumium-For-GT2-Belt-Width-6MM-3D-Printer-Accessories-p-1036136.html?rmmds=myorder&amp;cur_warehouse=CN" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OP's linked part</a>, the screw that is not radial but protrudes next to the axis is designed to come over the flat of the axis and the other one is to tighten it down.</p> <p>If the bore for the axis however is really skewed, and even after repeated re-mounting or shimming nothing can be done, a new part is needed. With the measurements of the part, you can order at a lot of online catalogs, the price and quality differ greatly. However, the engineering mantra strikes:</p> <h3><a href="http://www.pyragraph.com/2013/05/good-fast-cheap-you-can-only-pick-two/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cheap</a>, <a href="https://www.business.com/articles/fast-good-cheap-pick-three/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fast</a>, <a href="https://www.hexacta.com/software-development-good-fast-cheap/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Good. Choose two.</a></h3> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJ9Az.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QJ9Az.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2020-08-21T17:11:25.637

|diy-3d-printer|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|arduino-mega-2650|mosfet|

<p>I am a newbie to 3D printing and I am making a 3D printer from scratch (Cartesian). I've got a RAMPS 1.4 shield and an Arduino Mega 2560 board. I have a few questions and it would be very nice if I can get answers.</p> <p>The onboard MOSFET (STP55NFO6L) for the heatbed is dead and I think that the reason is because of the high resistance of my heat bed (1.8 Ω).</p> <p>I have searched a lot and I am fully confused about what to do.</p> <ol> <li><p>I am thinking of buying an external MOSFET and wire it up with the RAMPS fan MOSFET (STP55NF06L) and use the same heat bed.</p> </li> <li><p>Buy an external MOSFET and replace the onboard MOSFET (dead one) with the fan MOSFET (because of the underlying 11 A circuit) and use same heatbed.</p> </li> <li><p>Same as 2., but buying a new heatbed also.</p> </li> <li><p>Buying a RAMPS 1.6 and use old heatbed.</p> </li> </ol> <p>I am totally confused because of lot of searching. Please anybody help me. What should I do?</p>

14301

MOSFET burned and high heated bed resistance

<p>The resistance of the heated bed being <em>too high</em> can not have caused the MOSFET to burn out. Only a <em>too low</em> resistance could cause that.</p> <p>Keep in mind that measuring relatively low resistances (such as the one of your heated bed) is difficult, and if you just used a regular multimeter it might indicate a wrong value (e.g. due to the resistance of the test leads or a poor connection between the probe and heated bed). Therefore, the actual resistance might be (slightly) lower.</p> <p>A 1.8 Ω heated bed at 12 V will draw around 7 A of current. This is well within the capabilities of the MOSFET on board of the RAMPS. So either the resistance of the heated bed is lower than you measured (if the resistance was 1.2 Ω or lower this could cause the MOSFET to burn out), or you simply got unlucky with the quality of your RAMPS board.</p> <p>The (supposedly) high resistance definitely doesn't make the heated bed compatible with 24 V. Using a 1.8 Ω bed with 24 V would cause a 13 A current draw and 320 W of power. This is a lot more than is sensible for a 214 mm x 214 mm bed.</p> <p>All of the alternatives 1 and 4 you have listed are reasonable options. There is no reason (option 3) to replace the heated bed as there is no indication it is faulty. I see no reason to take option 2 since it involves desoldering and resoldering the fan MOSFET for no reason (if you are using an external MOSFET the fuse is no longer a limitation). There is a chance you'll damage the MOSFET doing this and option 1 only requires a trivial firmware change.</p> <p>Option 4 (upgrading to RAMPS 1.6) is purely a matter of personal preference.</p>

2020-08-23T10:10:05.100

|stepper-driver|ramps|tmc2130|

<p>The closest thing I can find is this <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/A4988_vs_DRV8825_Chinese_Stepper_Driver_Boards#Mixing_A4988_and_DRV8825_stepper_drivers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">wiki page</a> that state DRV8825 and A4988 can be mixed. However, the TMCs seem different, requiring more connections and offer more features, so I wonder if they can be used on the same RAMPS board with A4988, particularly for X and Y axis.</p>

14310

Can I mix TMC drivers with A4988 on the same RAMPS board?

<p>Yes you can mix different drivers, including the TMC drivers (e.g. using for X and Y only).</p> <p>How you do that is described in <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrading-RAMPS-14-With-TMC2130-Stepper-Drivers/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this instructable</a>.</p> <hr /> <p><em>Please do note that, from observations, the 8-bit based Arduino boards and shields such as the RAMPS are becoming more or less obsolete; the 32-bit based controller boards are becoming mainstream. Such boards have a lot more potential in execution speed, memory and more available options for peripherals.</em></p>

2020-08-24T21:43:23.013

|filament|extruder|monoprice-maker-select|

<p>When trying to print (using 215 °C for the hotend and 65 °C for the bed) there seems to be a clicking and filament stops extruding.</p> <p>After much work I have cleaned the nozzle and made sure there are no clogs in the machine. However the filament seems to not extrude. When I get the filament out, there are small cuts/marks on the filament. Please see the attached picture for a better view.</p> <p>I'm not sure if the marks are causing the issue or if there could be something else going on. Any suggestions on how to fix the extruder to push out filament? Everything was working normally until yesterday after I leveled the print bed.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJT6c.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament with marks"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJT6c.jpg" alt="Filament with marks" title="Filament with marks" /></a></p>

14322

Clicking noise from the extruder and no filament coming out

<p>There are a number of points missing, but I can offer a few suggestions. The re-leveling of the bed could have resulted in the bed now being in a position to block the nozzle. I have done exactly that in the past. A clean glass bed makes for a perfect clog.</p> <p>The marks on the filament fit the description of a hobbed gear (extruder drive bolt) chewing into the filament, which would move only slightly from being blocked at the nozzle.</p> <p>Additionally, filament temperature may be a factor, although it's difficult to determine with the information provided.</p> <p>For a test, consider to use the controls available to you to raise the nozzle/lower the bed. Bring the nozzle up to your normal filament temperature. Execute an extrusion of sufficient length to ensure that the filament will reach and exit the nozzle.</p> <p>If this does not provide extrusion, raise the temperature five degrees C and make another attempt. It may be necessary to raise the temperature in steps more than one time.</p> <p>Use undamaged filament in these tests to ensure that the damage does not factor into the problem.</p>

2020-08-27T07:11:30.620

|resin|creality-ld-002r|

<p>I have purchased a Creality LD-002R resin printer. It is solid hardware, with a good experience and great value for the price, but it comes with very little documentation.</p> <p>I am looking at calibration procedure of the print surface. I have read in reference to other printers that it is customary to interpose a sheet of paper when leveling the print surface against the pane of glass. Is this applicable? Are there any other setup recommendations?</p>

14327

Calibrating a resin printer

<p>First of all a caveat:</p> <h2>Leveling an FDM printer</h2> <p>...is done differently than an SLA/DLP printer When calibrating an <strong>FDM</strong> printer, you align the bed with the X and Y axis, using a paper, metal shim or another tool (such as a feeler gauge) to make sure the plane that the nozzle moves in is <em>parallel</em> to the bed as much as possible. The paper, shim and gauge all serve in making sure that the nozzle does not push <em>into</em> the bed on the move and to be an easily measurable system. You need to do several measurements and repeat the process till the bed is level. This can take quite some time with paper or shims, which is why I use a feeler gauge in the micrometer area.</p> <h2>Leveling an SLA/DLP printer</h2> <p>when leveling an SLA/DLP (aka Resin) printer, you also want to align the bed, but you want to align it parallel to the <strong>screen</strong>. The process is rather simple: mount the bed and loosen the retention mechanism, have the printer move down and press the bed against the screen surface. Some printers need to have the (preferably empty and clean) vat installed, others need you to remove it. Tighten the retention mechanism. Move the bed up, you are leveled. Only now comes the resin (and vat!) back. Some printers have their leveling mechanism separated from the mounting screw - that allows removing the bed for taking off the part and keep the leveling intact.</p> <p>In the case of the Creality ld-002r there's <a href="https://youtu.be/JIY7_i1zvt8?t=44" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a video Tutorial</a>, the alignment screws are on the <strong>side</strong> of the carriage. Remove your resin vat before leveling. Loosen only those side screw, keep the <strong>top</strong> one fast!</p> <p>The reason why I suggest to level against an empty vat is to make sure that on the one hand the resin doesn't go bad (it should be exposed to as little light as possible), you are exposed to the least resin fumes as possible and to make sure that no pieces are inside the vat when your printer firmly presses the bed against the screen - it could damage the screen or surface would there be chunks of former prints left in the vat! Also, you don't want to contaminate your tools with resin, which means you want to work on the fasteners with no resin in the vat.</p>

2020-08-28T11:36:16.800

|3d-design|print-material|filament-choice|stability|

<p>I am currently trying to print a gear with the possibility to connect it to the shaft of a DC motor. The following picture best describes what the shaft of the motor looks like by showing the hole printed in the gear:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNHn5.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNHn5.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>So far this works well for a short amount of time, however since the gear is connected to another gear that is from time to time exerting quite some resistance already after a few revolutions the shaft starts to wear out the material that is holding it and it turns without powering the gear, i.e. the printed part is not strong enough to withstand the torque of the motor.</p> <p>I am wondering what the best way forward would be here. I see multiple options:</p> <ul> <li>Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any</li> <li>Switch to a different material, I am currently using PLA, but I could also go for ABS or PETG if any of them would provide advantages. For PLA vs ABS I found some conflicting information which one is &quot;harder&quot;</li> <li>Play with the parameters of the print. At the moment I am only using 3 wall layers, I wonder if increasing the number of wall layers would improve rigidity.</li> </ul> <p>Are there other ideas? What could you recommend me to improve this connection?</p>

14331

Design connection to motor shaft for printed gear

<p>If you're thinking of changing materials, you're looking at the wrong parameters. PLA has a higher hardness than either PETG or ABS, but hardness isn't what you want.</p> <p>The problem you're experiencing is <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">creep</a>, where a material flows in response to pressure. Of the common printing plastics, PLA is by far the most susceptible to creep. Either ABS or PETG will be better in this regard, though unless you need ABS's strength, I'd recommend using PETG because it's easier to get dimensionally-correct prints.</p> <p>That said, the contact area shown in your drawing is rather small. You'd be much better off using a metal flange to spread the contact out over a larger area.</p>

2020-08-28T22:52:07.143

|heat-management|e3d|

<p>Does anybody know an exact difference between E3D High Precision Heater vs a standard one? I mean technical characteristics not only about its naming.</p> <p>Or maybe somebody has both of them and did some comparison?</p>

14336

E3D High Precision Heater difference

<p>E3D themselves specify this on <a href="https://e3d-online.com/products/high-precision-heater-cartridges" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the product page</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Our high precision heater cartridges feature a rounder cartridge with more consistent diameter and surface quality, ensuring greater surface area contact with the heater block for more reliable heat transfer. With the quick change principle in mind, the high precision heater cartridge uses a Molex Microfit 3.0 connector enabling quick HotEnd changes.</p> </blockquote> <p>E3D also provide a <a href="https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/yZ3fNYgAKskGwe3Z/E-HEATER-HP-PUBLIC-%28Edition-3..pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">datasheet on the precision heater cartridge</a> which can be compared to that of the <a href="https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/wJPXxAQHBNCVwTem/E-HEATER-ALL.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">regular heater cartridges</a>.</p> <p>From an electrical perspective, the are identical. They will put out the exact same amount of heat. The main difference is in the dimensional specifications, which for the precision cartridge is guaranteed to be a diameter of 6.0 mm +/- 0.2 mm and a length of 20.0 mm +/- 0.5 mm, while for the regular cartridge no tolerances are specified though they have the same nominal dimensions.</p> <p>Apart from this, as we can discern from the product description, the precision cartridge comes with a connector to enable swapping and a better surface finish.</p>

2020-08-30T04:05:12.090

|heated-bed|

<p>This is more about using polycarbonate with silicon heated pad as the bed itself, and not as a material that goes onto an existing aluminium bed; i.e. I am not intending to use it as a flexible build surface (although that could be an option as well).</p>

14342

Can Polycarbonate be used as heated bed

<p>Since Polycarbonate (PC) has glass transition point of 147°C (according to wikipedia) where it starts to melt, you could in theory use it as a heated bed for PLA or even PETG. BUT, there are other characteristics:</p> <p>PC is quite good heat insulator, which would result in uneven heat distribution in the heated bed.</p> <p>Also it expands quite a lot with rising temperature, which could result in warped bed.</p> <p>And as per usual with thermoplastic polymers such as PC, heating them and cooling them repeatedly can cause material degradation. That would result in the material becoming brittle, deforming, or changes of other properties....</p> <p>Next problem would be that it is not stiff enough. Depending on the size of the heated bed you would have to support it on multiple points (I would say at least 5x5 grid for 300x300mm bed) and even then it would be unpredictable.</p> <p>To sum it up: yes, you probably could use PC as heated bed, but it is much better to stick to traditional materials like aluminium or glass fibre sheets (PCB material), because PC would be very inconsistent and therefore hard to level.</p> <p>I hope this helps.</p> <p>Note: I am basing this on my theoretical knowledge, I have not tested it and thus do not know if my assumptions are correct or not.</p>

2020-08-31T00:56:59.493

|bed-leveling|creality-cr-10|

<p>I have a brand new Creality CR-10 S5. I'm new to printing.</p> <p>I'm trying to level the print bed, but after using the Auto-Home function the nozzle is left touching the glass. I understand that to do the leveling, I must move the head manually to the four positions for adjusting. But I really don't want to do that because I don't want to damage the glass, nozzle, or both. From the explanations of leveling I've found, I think I should expect the nozzle to be too high if anything.</p> <p>Am I conceptually wrong, or have I made some rookie mistake?</p>

14348

Can't level CR10 as nozzle is touching the glass

<p>If the nozzle is touching the bed, you need to further screw down the bed. If the springs under the screws are already fully compressed, you cannot lower the bed further and you will need to move the Z-endstop up. Note that there are handy fine tuning aids you can print to help you with this, see e.g. <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2780362" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> fine tune part for your printer. Note that this issue is not uncommon, I've read that more people encountered this.</p>

2020-09-01T19:32:05.367

|creality-ender-3|bltouch|

<p>MY new BLTouch doesn't seem to be actually sensing anything, and I'm not sure how to test it.</p> <p>Quick background: I have a bit under a decade of experience with printing generally, but essentially none with firmware or any of the specific hardware. I recently got a new Ender 3 Pro, and successfully printed with it for a month.</p> <p>I recently decided to upgrade my Ender 3 pro motherboard and add a BLTouch. I installed an SKR Mini E3 v2.0, tested briefly (long enough to satisfy myself that it worked as expected, but nothing extensive). I bolted on a BLTouch (not sure if 3.0 or 3.1), built and installed a cable to the dedicated &quot;Z-Probe&quot; port (same pinout as the BLTouch: brown, red, yellow, black, white), and updated the firmware with the <a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/firmware/V2.0/firmware-bltouch.bin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">binary firmware file from the controller board manufacturer</a>. I have no other mods to electronics.</p> <p>Right now, I have the following behavior:</p> <ul> <li>During startup: BLTouch extends and retracts several times</li> <li>In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select <code>CMD:Self Test</code>: BLTouch turns red, extends and retracts several times.</li> <li>In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select <code>CMD:Extend</code>: BLTouch extends.</li> <li>In the LCD menu for BLTouch; select <code>CMD:Retract</code>: BLTouch retracts.</li> <li>In the LCD menu, select <code>Auto Home</code>: behaves as expected (moves the axes until they hit endstops).</li> </ul> <p>So far so good, but then this:</p> <ul> <li>In the LCD menu, select <code>Bed Level</code>: performs Auto Home procedure (as above), moves the BLTouch over the corner of the bed, extends the probe, lowers the Z axis until it hits the endstop. BLTouch probe moves back in. On the way down it turns solid red, then flashing red, then eventually retracts, then the carriage hits the endstop. Process ends.</li> </ul> <p>So, What next? I'd like to check that the BLTouch is actually sending a signal to the board, but I'm not sure how. I've reviewed a bunch of online tutorials and the documentation for the mainboard and the BLTouch, without finding an answer.</p> <p>Available tools: I have a multimeter and a very cheap oscilloscope. I haven't gotten the maple console installed, but do have a (probably?) functional alternative through the Pango slicer.</p>

14358

How can I tell if BLTouch is triggering?

<p>Problem is solved, though I still don't know how to test the BLTouch.</p> <p>I had reversed the power connection (black and white wires) at the connection to the extension cable. Swapping that connector back around restored expected behavior.</p>

2020-09-02T03:10:08.280

|creality-ender-3|

<p>I am very new to 3D printing. I am looking to purchase the Ender 3 V2 but before I do I would appreciate some advice on what I should purchase as the upgrades/addons for it. I'm not sure as to what I would need for the V2 since most websites are for the original Ender 3 so I don't know if the V2 already has that upgrade/addons or not when compared to the original. I would rather get all the upgrades/addons and the Ender 3 V2 at the same to save on shipping and all. </p> <p>Pretty much the only upgrade/addons I have constantly seen is the auto bed level. </p> <p>So if anyone can help out a first time 3D printer noob then that would be great!</p>

14360

Ender 3 V2 upgrades and addons

<p>As per my information, you don't need to upgrade your 3D printer but some of the following steps keep in mind to have your Ender 3 print better:</p> <ol> <li>Level the bed.</li> <li>Set the nozzle height.</li> <li>Try different Build Plates for different effects.</li> <li>Keep it on the sweet spot for your bed temperature.</li> <li>Printer adjustment and maintenance are kept on priority.</li> </ol>

2020-09-02T05:13:19.757

|diy-3d-printer|arduino-mega-2650|ramps-1.6|

<p>I just bought a new RAMPS 1.6 shield to replace my old RAMPS 1.4 shield. The problem is that it's just not working, the motors don't move, heatbed/nozzle don't get heated. It was all working with the RAMPS 1.4 shield.</p> <p>I checked the RAMPS 1.6 and there's no bridging in the solder joints.</p> <p>The DRV8255 is drawing current also but the motor doesn't move.</p> <p>I am using Repetier Firmware. I tried Marlin (default) and even it's not working.</p>

14361

New RAMPS 1.6 not working

<p>So In my case, the RAMPS were defective, I returned them and got a new replacement from Amazon. The new one worked just fine.</p>

2020-09-02T12:54:46.087

|prusa-i3|hotend|electronics|replacement-parts|bq-hephestos|

<p>I'm not really sure what the type of plug on the heater cable is. Is it a Molex KK or maybe a JST PH?</p> <p>The printer is a <em>Prusa I3</em> Hephestos (aka BQ Hephestos). It came with this &quot;BQ HOT-END HEATCORE CLASSIC&quot; hotend from the &quot;BQ Witbox 1&quot; extruder.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Msnjw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Msnjw.png" alt="Hotend in question" /></a></p>

14363

What type of plug is this?

<p>As 0scar noted, this looks suspiciously <em>like</em> a JST connector, but the left one is not a JST RCY connector and it is neither one of the common <a href="https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=199" rel="noreferrer">JST PH</a> nor <a href="https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=277" rel="noreferrer">JST XH</a>, JST manufacturer pages show. In fact, it's not a <a href="https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/search_e.php?type=1&amp;id=11&amp;page=1" rel="noreferrer">wire-to-wire JST</a> connector. The <a href="https://www.bqstore.nl/de/bq/77-BQ-Heizpatrone-40W-mit-JST-Stecker-8436545516805.html" rel="noreferrer">BQ-store claims</a> it is a 2.5 mm JST connector, but JST has some 10 dozen different types of connectors, some three dozen of them with a 2.5 mm pitch.</p> <h2>&quot;JST Quick&quot; / JST RCY</h2> <p><a href="https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=521" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TWZM.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>This one is rated 3A, and looks like the connector on the right, the thermistor one. So if you need to fix that, you know what to get for that.</p> <h2>So what it is?</h2> <p>The connector however looks at <em>first glance suspiciously</em> like this one: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKAwN.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HKAwN.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I found this product on several warehouses, listed as <code>2-PIN CONNECTOR W/HEADER, .10&quot;</code>, and even found a <a href="https://www.allelectronics.com/mas_assets/media/allelectronics2018/spec/CON-242.pdf" rel="noreferrer">specsheet</a>. Those products appear, in design, to be based on the <a href="https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_houaings/0022013027" rel="noreferrer"><strong>Molex KK 254</strong></a> from the 2659 series. A genuine Molex 2659-series connector is rated for up to <a href="https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ps/PS-10-07-001.pdf" rel="noreferrer"><strong>2.5 Ampere</strong></a>, and looks <em>somewhat</em> similar.</p> <p>However, the shop did claim it is a JST 2.5 mm pin, and they give a side view:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UEE8.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5UEE8.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>That is <strong>not</strong> a Molex KK. It appears more similar to a JST NV, which however has a 5 mm distance between the peg centers (= pitch) and it's rated for 10 A (or 120 W at 12V!). While matching in <em>style</em> it does not match in measurements - as OP confirmed, there's a very close to a 4 mm pitch (+- measurement tollerance) on the connector. So it's not an NV, but something os similar style.</p> <p><a href="https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=186" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNbT1.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>But then it has to be the VH! The VH series has a 3.98 mm pitch, it has that latch and it is rated 10 A, for 120 W at 12 V. In fact, the pins on the Hotend seem to be B2P-VH, matching VHR-2N or VHR-2M &quot;female&quot; adapters.</p> <p><a href="https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/detail_e.php?series=262" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIxNS.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <h3>Safety?</h3> <p>I would <strong>not</strong> trust a Molex KK 2659-series connector with a heater cartridge on a 12 V Machine! With a 12 V, 30 W Heater cartridge draws <strong>exactly</strong> 2.5 Ampere, so you'd have a safety margin of 0! That's bad design. A 40 W heater cartridge would draw 3.3 A - that's 132 % of the rating! That'd be a fire waiting to happen!</p> <p>Only a 24 V machine could be built with a Molek KK 2659 connector and stay within the 2.5 A rating (40 W &amp; 24 V -&gt; 1.67 A, 30 W &amp; 24 W -&gt; 1.25 A) with a safety factor of about 1.5 to 2 to the rating (depending on heater cartridge).</p> <p>However, this is a JST VH with a rating of 10 A. That means, at 12 V, it's safe for 120 W load, so plenty safe: That's a safety facor of 3, and on a 24 V machine it'd be 6. That's Perfectly safe and sane! After all we look for at least a 5 A rated connector in conjunction with a 12 V/40 W heater.</p> <p>The more tedious variant to connect safely is to use either an even higher rated connector (requiring replacement) or a continuous wire to the board.</p>

2020-09-06T17:45:07.533

|resin|creality-ld-002r|chitu|sainsmart-kumitsu-kl9|

<p>I am using two resin printers based on the ChiTu software (Creality LD-002R and SainSmart Kumitsu KL9), and the former uses ChiTu 1.6.2, while the latter came with 1.6.1. I believe both will work just fine with the latest version, but it occurs to me that having separate copies of the software may be a good idea to keep configurations separate as well: Creality's version of the software came pre-configured (and the settings are undocumented!), while the SainSmart manual documents the software settings.</p> <p>I don't want to go back-and forth between two sets of settings manually — the secret recipe approach has poor UX and time's a wastin'. I am wondering if there is any concern with installing multiple copies of ChiTu. And if anyone has a smarter way to accomplish the same (printer profiles? INI files?), I am all ears.</p>

14388

Installing multiple versions of ChiTu side by side

<p>Running multiple versions of the same software did not sit well with the software person in me, so I dug a little deeper.</p> <p>ChiTu has a &quot;settings&quot; button to the right side, and under that section it is possible to configure different, separate printer profiles. That may take care of the differences if properly configured, unfortunately only some printer profiles are pre-loaded. ChiTu 1.6.4 includes the Creality LD-002R profile, while the very recent Kumitsu KL9 is not predefined (yet), but the manual comes with a screenshot of the parameters just as they need to be entered.</p>

2020-09-07T00:41:52.533

|resin|

<p>Can different resin colors be mixed to generate new colors? I use eSun water washable resins, but I am happy to switch if this is a different vendor's capability.</p>

14392

Can photopolymer resin colors be mixed?

<h1>Yes and No at the same time</h1> <p>First of all, yes, you can mix resins. However, you should only mix resins that are of the same makeup, as in one brand and type. Why? because different types of resin have different compositions and different polymerization types. Mixing different types can result in unpredictable behavior, and not working at all!</p> <p>To test, use a tiny amount of your brand and type matched resins and apply to the vat, then print something really tiny, like just 2 or 3 layers of a 20x20x20 mm cube.</p>

2020-09-09T09:47:39.040

|filament-choice|knowledgebase|filled-pla|

<p>There are tons of fancy filaments around. And a lot are super nice to look at or have super cool properties, like carbon-filled nylon being comparatively far stronger than other material, wood fill is aesthetically pleasing and even just Glow in the dark! But a maker space nearby just banned any of those as <em>abrasive</em> filament. But, how can I know if my filament is abrasive?</p>

14402

How do I know if a filament is abrasive?

<p>A filament made of pure plastic won't be abrasive. The abrasion comes from the added particles.</p> <p>Filaments with added particles of any kind (there are not so many after all: glass/carbon fibres, metals, glow in the dark, wood, stone) will usually be always be advertised as such because they always carry a higher price tag compared to the plain plastic, therefore you know that it contains potentially abrasive particles.</p> <p>Once you know that particles are added, most of the time they will be abrasive: as far as I know, only cork is not, any other kind of particles I listed (including wood particles) may easily scratch brass.</p> <p>If it were your printer, we could discuss how much each kind of particles will abrade, but in your case the ban seems to be complete, therefore only plain plastics (including &quot;plus/+/Pro&quot; blends, like for PLA and ABS) are allowed.</p>

2020-09-13T05:44:54.303

|marlin|firmware|bed-leveling|3dtouch|artillery-sidewinder-x1|

<p>The printer I am working on is an Artillery Sidewinder X1.</p> <p>I have fitted it with a 3DTouch (BLTouch clone) bed leveling probe purchased from Bangood.</p> <p>I have printed a mount for it and plugged it into the main board. Once that was done, I edited the firmware and enabled all settings for the 3DTouch roughly following the directions from Teaching Tech's video <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUlqrSq6LeY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here.</a> After flashing the firmware, an error message appears on every boot saying:</p> <pre><code>Failed to enable Bed Leveling echo: Bed Leveling off echo: Fade Height Off ok </code></pre> <p>After pressing confirm, ABL routine does not work. It homes the X-axis, then the Y-axis, deploys and stows the 3DTouch probe once. It also will show an error message for a split second (so I am unable to know what it says) the comes up with an EEPROM message.</p> <p>Auto homing does the same thing as ABL routine but with a different error:</p> <pre><code>STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999 Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after res[e]t </code></pre> <p>I have also zipped up my Marlin firmware configuration I am currently using. They can be found here: <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yyqZGCIfUeY0QV9oFfd2kbMpiZjwPLaY/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here.</a></p> <p>My servo pin is connected to D11 and my two wire pin is connected to the ZMAX endstop. Here is a diagram:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYWla.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sYWla.jpg" alt="3DTouch Wiring" /></a></p>

14418

Artillery Sidewinder X1 3DTouch not working

<p>Ok so I did a bit of testing with the wiring and it turns out I just had the 3DTouch in the Z- socket instead of Z+ :-) . Another idiot mistake from me!</p>

2020-09-15T18:22:11.730

|prusa-i3|g-code|petg|prusaslicer|prusa-research|

<p>I am using &quot;Pretty PETG&quot; along with PrusaSlicer's consecutive print mode.</p> <p>What I am noticing is that upon finishing the first print, the printer hits <code>MINTEMP BED Fixed</code>. I'm not sure if it's immediate because I let the prints run overnight but I assume the bed cools down and then the error is hit.</p> <p>I'm just starting to learn G-code and my initial thought was there's an errant bed temperature instruction but the only <code>M140 S0</code> instructions I see are in the <code>end_gcode</code> and near the bottom of the file. Maybe there a <code>goto</code> in G-code which may be running after <code>M140 S0</code> which then causes the <code>MINTEMP BED</code> issue? Perhaps there's something else going on?</p>

14435

MINTEMP BED Fixed error when running consecutive print

<p>This is most likely a hardware problem, namely the <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/4-heatbed-assembly_51736#52400" rel="nofollow noreferrer">heat bed thermistor cable</a>.</p> <p>To confirm this as the root cause, here's what you can try</p> <ul> <li>Reboot the printer</li> <li>Move the y axis around to make sure there is freedom of movement at both ends</li> <li>Jigger the thermistor cable around in multiple directions at multiple points on the cable</li> </ul> <p>If you hit <code>BED MINTEMP</code> or <code>BED_MINTEMP fixed</code> then you have found a cable angle/position that causes the issue. You may need to replace the cable.</p> <p>The issue could also happen at the connection with Einsey. If the wrapped cable going into Einsey is moved, the connection may be faulty.</p> <ul> <li>Ground yourself</li> <li>Open Einsy</li> <li>Ground yourself</li> <li>Reboot the printer</li> <li>Jigger the connection to Einsey</li> </ul> <p>If you hit <code>BED MINTEMP</code> or <code>BED_MINTEMP fixed</code> then the connection is bad. Try unplugging and replugging the cable. Look at the connectors on both sides to try to determine if the source is the cable or Einsey. You may need to replace the cable or repair the Einsey connector.</p>

2020-09-16T23:51:57.613

|marlin|creality-cr-10|bltouch|

<p>I have a base Creality CR-10 that I have had for 10 months. Since then I have added Z-axis braces and a Z-axis dual lead screw. I have a Filament runout sensor that I want to add and I want to add a BLTouch bed leveling. I know I can probably squeeze those last two upgrades in using the V1.0 board that came with the CR10, but I really want to upgrade boards to the V2.0 that use the TMC2208 drivers.</p> <p>My questions are:</p> <ul> <li><p>Any issues compatibility wise or firmware wise that I might run into while upgrading</p> </li> <li><p>Also I know that the V2.5 board uses Marlin firmware, is that the same firmware that the V1.0 uses</p> </li> <li><p>Is it worth it to upgrade to BLTouch. I have viewed several youtube videos and read several websites/posts on using it but I am not that clear on whether you would have to ever use the manual bed leveling adjustments or does BLTouch take care of that forever?</p> </li> </ul> <p>Any insights, comments or links to useful posts/websites very much appreciated!</p>

14438

Creality CR-10 board upgrade from V1.0 to V2.0 questions

<blockquote> <p>Any issues compatibility wise or firmware wise that I might run into while upgrading</p> </blockquote> <p>These boards are 8-bit boards with limited storage capacity for your firmware, if you would need an update, as an alternative solution, a 32-bit board may be a much better solution.</p> <blockquote> <p>Also I know that the V2.5 board uses Marlin firmware, is that the same firmware that the V1.0 uses</p> </blockquote> <p>I do not own this board so I can't say for sure, a generic remark would be that the Marlin 2.x branch works fine on 8-bit boards (from experience with some of my own boards), but you frequently see (does not have be the case for this board!) that these OEMs use the latest from the 1.1.9 branch. The only drawback is that you sometimes need to be creative to fit the firmware on the board, the more options, the more memory is used.</p> <blockquote> <p>Is it worth it to upgrade to BLTouch</p> </blockquote> <p>That depends on the state of your heated bed/build platform. If the build platform is not flat, but is somewhat curved, you may see improvements in bed adhesion when you correctly add a sensor that maps the surface and adjusts for it during printing. If it is flat, manual leveling works fine.</p> <blockquote> <p>I am not that clear on whether you would have to ever use the manual bed leveling adjustments or does BLTouch take care of that forever?</p> </blockquote> <p>Even when using a sensor that maps the surface of the build platform, you should always try to deliver a bed that is as level as possible. In videos you often see the bed tilted (very much exaggerated); you need to remember that the printer will <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7892">print in a plain level</a> after about 10 mm (or to a different height, determined in your firmware or set by G-code), a skew platform will give you a skew print.</p>

2020-09-17T01:06:18.653

|fusion360|

<p>On 16 September 2020, Autodesk announced changes in the way that Fusion 360 can be used for non-commercial use with their Personal license. As a hobbyist, most of these changes will not affect me very much, since I do not use Fusion 360's advanced features. The most irksome will be only being allowed to have up to ten &quot;documents&quot; active at any one time, the rest having to be archived.</p> <p>However, Autodesk are also restricting the number of file formats that you can export to. For example, the STEP file format will no longer be available with the Personal license. Will this mean that I will not be able to move my models to another CAD package, such as FreeCAD, once the changes come into effect (without first buying a commercial license)?</p> <p><a href="https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Fusion-360-Free-License-Changes.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Autodesk: Changes to Fusion 360 for personal use</a></p> <p><strong>Edit: Good news. Autodesk have announced, on 25 September 2020, that the facility to export models to STEP files will be retained for the free-to-use, personal license.</strong></p>

14439

Will I still be able to export my Fusion 360 models to other CAD packages after Autodesk's recent license changes come into effect?

<h1>If you use the private license: there was supposed to be a cutoff date.</h1> <p>As long as you use the &quot;private&quot; license, you will get some restrictions. Originally, including the lock off of <code>.step</code> and similar files as well as limiting you to 10 active projects. This means, that you will need to deactivate some to make room for new ones, but unless you have many interlocking parts, 10 can be quite a lot for a hobbyist.</p> <p>They also lock off features that are pretty much only useful for small companies - and if you are in the shoes missing those features, you are on the wrong free license anyway.</p> <p>In late (<a href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/changes-to-fusion-360-for-personal-use/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">25^th</a>.) September 2020, the lock of <code>.step</code> was reversed, but other formats will still no longer be available.</p> <h1>This does not apply to all free licenses</h1> <p>Note that this does not apply to the free education license for teachers and students or the free business license for sub 100,000 \$ companies. You might want to consider swapping to either of these two plans if you qualify.</p> <h1>Last words</h1> <p>I agree with <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4CqWWQXaPE&amp;t=0s" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thomas Sanladerer:</a> Autodesk is under no obligation to offer a free version at all and even a somewhat restricted, locked into the Autodesk-world version is much better than nothing. I will keep using it, but I am also in the education space and thus not directly affected.</p>

2020-09-23T12:06:31.297

|hotend|electronics|creality-cr-10|heat-management|

<p>I've been happily printing on my CR-10 for a couple of months but now there is an issue. As soon as I turn it on the hot-end begins heating. I have replaced the heater and the thermistor but the problem remains. The panel on the control box shows 0 for the commanded temperature, but the actual temp just keeps rising. Anyone know what could be wrong?</p>

14474

CR-10 heating problem

<p>If you power the printer and it starts heating up the hotend, it most probably is caused by a faulty controller board. More specific, the MOSFET (as in an electronic switch component) controlling the current to the heater element is causing this. MOSFET devices usually fail short-circuit implying that when the MOSFET has failed, the current can freely run to the heater element without being controlled by the board.</p> <p>If you are handy with electronics, you can replace the MOSFET, but it might be better to upgrade to a newer controller board as there may be other damage as well.</p>

2020-09-24T15:24:28.030

|creality-ender-3|z-axis|

<p>My Ender 3D with BlTouch And Marlin 2.0.1 firmware was working flawless for 3 months.</p> <p>Yesterday, without any hardware or software change, it started acting weird: on Auto-Home command it first makes expected moves (home X and Y), then moves to the center of the bed and then instead of going down to bed, it rises all the way up and then writes a message about End Stop. This of course happens also on &quot;start print&quot;, &quot;level bed&quot;, etc.</p> <p>Before the Auto Home command, I can operate the Z axis normally, after it, the printer does not allow movement down.</p> <p>Do you have any ideas, what might have gone wrong?</p>

14490

Hotend moves up on HOME command

<p>The mystery is solved. The BlTouch probe was slightly blocked and reported (supposedly) being in touch with the plate. Just touching it released the probe from the stuck position and all works well now.</p> <p>Due to direct sunlight, I overlooked the warning blinking red colour of the BlTouch.</p>

2020-09-25T21:06:43.617

|resin|

<p>Not storing left-over photopolymer resin back with pristine resin in its original shipping can seems to be a common recommendation.</p> <p>What is the best practice here? Store in a separate bottle and pour this &quot;once around the block&quot; resin first for the next print?</p>

14497

left-over photopolymer resins

<h2>Safety first</h2> <p>I suggest the following handling of resins, some basic stuff first:</p> <ul> <li><strong>ALWAYS</strong> wear disposable, one-use gloves when handling resin.</li> <li>Respirators are highly advised to be worn.</li> <li>Work in a well-ventilated area.</li> <li>Tools dedicated to resin handling are for resin only to prevent contamination of other tools.</li> <li>Try to minimize the amount added to the vat, so you have as little rests as possible.</li> </ul> <h2>Re-cycling</h2> <p>Now, what to do to get the used resin back to the cycle? Any resin that has been exosed to air and light, such as having been in the vat is best considered to be B-Quality. You can use it to cast greeblies or bits (aka disposal by curing), as one would do with leftover casting (2-component) resin, but that is a waste.</p> <h3>Step 1: Re-botteling</h3> <p>So, let's look at some better ways: first of all re-botteling the resin. We need to take in mind, that the quality of our resin will further degrade the longer it stays exposed to light (and to a lesser degree: air), so we need to handle the resin in a way that allows us to eliminate exposition to either. For this, it would be best to keep an empty resin bottle at hand and label it as the leftover bottle. To fill this bottle, you should use a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=resin%20vat&amp;type=things&amp;sort=relevant" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Jig</a> to keep the vat in a position that it pours into the bottle. You might want to use a funnel in some cases!</p> <h2>Step 2: Re-conditioning</h2> <p>Now, we know how to get the stuff back into the (B-quality) bottle. But how to make sure it has the best quality we can? As you notice, many of the jigs involve a funnel. This funnel is used in conjunction with a filter to remove larger particles. The finer the filter, the better. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffee_filter#Paper_filter" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Coffee filters</a> manage to snatch particles down to about 10 to 15 micrometers. It is equivalent to about Grade 4 laboratory filter paper. However, laboratory filter paper of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_paper#Qualitative_filter_paper" rel="nofollow noreferrer">grades 1,2,3 or 602h</a> would allow to catch particles of even lower size, as the mesh gets even smaller, but might clog faster. Tea filters on the other hand have worse filtration ability and should be avoided.</p> <p>To get the best out of it, use a filtration stack, that starts with a metal mesh filter before going through a rough and a fine filter to get out any chunks and large particles that would clog the fine filter.</p> <p>It would be best to have this process run in the dark, so mounting the dripping and filtration stack in a box might first sound like overkill, but if you go through a large amount of resin (for example by running several printers) it might be an investment that can save a considerable amount of resin in the long run. However, if you run so many printers, you also might run them continually with the same resin colors and just refill them as needed and only filter if there had been a print failure.</p> <h2>Step 3: Storage</h2> <p>Store your bottles in a closed cupboard. It would be best if this cupboard is ventilated through a filtration unit and then outside. It should also keep a steady temperature above about 10 °C to prevent clumping. Just follow the storage manual for the normal resin actually.</p> <h2>Step 4: Re-use</h2> <p>Now comes the tricky part: re-using the resin. While technically the filtered and re-bottled resin should be almost as good as new, it would be best to make sure that we mix it with some virgin resin to make sure we have enough photoinitiator in the resin. For this, I would suggest mixing the recycled resin with between a sixth and half of the fresh stuff. Mix the two well to make sure you get the best possible. Make sure it's the same type and color of the used resin, best even from the same original batch.</p> <p>Use up the re-cycled resin first, as you should consider it's best before date much shorter than on the virgin bottle.</p>

2020-09-27T05:53:43.027

|software|raspberry-pi|

<p>My only functional computer at the moment is a raspberry pi, and I was wondering if there was any software that supported it. My printer is a Newmatter mod-t, but I might be able to modify other software to support it</p>

14501

Is there any 3D-printing software that supports Raspberry Pi?

<p>This is a case of <a href="https://blog.codinghorror.com/the-principle-of-least-power/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Atwood's Law</a>.</p> <p>Remember that <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TinkerCAD</a> runs entirely in your web browser. If your Raspberri Pi can browse the web, you can do basic 3D modeling.</p> <p>Similarly, there is an online slicer available at <a href="https://cnc-apps.com/en/app/stl2gcode" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cnc-apps.com</a> — probably others, too. If you can browse the web, you can slice an STL to create gcode suitable for most printers. It's free to use (with limits) for guests. However, I haven't used it personally so I can't speak to the quality at this time. (If anyone wants to try this out, I'd love to hear your results).</p> <p>The final step is getting the printer to run the generated g-code, and here we have our old friend <a href="https://octoprint.org/download/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint</a>. I'm currently running this on a Raspberry Pi of my own. However, I'd be hesitant to give the Pi over to running the printer if it's your only computer. In most cases I would instead copy the gcode file to an sd card, but as the particular printer here it seems to support wifi it's likely you can upload the gcode directly.</p>

2020-09-27T12:18:08.727

|filament|plastic|sbs|

<p>I want to print a part from Thingiverse. In the description, the creater writes that he used SBS to print it. I did some research because I never heard of SBS. I found a description on Filaments.directory that describes it as:</p> <blockquote> <p>Poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) is a hard, durable rubber that is commonly used for shoe soles, tires and other products that experience high wear.</p> </blockquote> <p>But if I search for SBS filaments to buy, there only shows ABS up. Did I misunderstood something and SBS is the same as ABS.</p>

14505

What is SBS plastic

<p>This response might be way late but no, SBS is not a typo. <a href="http://generalpolymers.net/sbs.cfm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here are the info</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p><strong>SBS (styrene-butadiene-styrene)</strong></p> <p>Poly (styrene-butadiene-styrene) or SBS, is a hard rubber that's used to modify asphalt, to make soles of shoes, tire treads, and other places where durability is important. It's a type of copolymer called a block copolymer. Its backbone chain is made up of three segments. The first is a long chain of polystyrene, the middle is a long chain of polybutadiene, and the last segment is another long section of polystyrene.</p> <p>Polystyrene is a tough hard plastic, and this gives SBS its durability. Polybutadiene is rubbery, and this gives SBS its rubber-like properties. In addition, the polystyrene chains tend to clump together. When one styrene group of one SBS molecule joins one clump, and the other polystyrene chain of the same SBS molecule joins another clump, the different clumps become tied together with rubbery polybutadiene chains. This gives the material the ability to retain its shape after being stretched.</p> </blockquote>

2020-09-27T14:33:49.120

|marlin|z-axis|

<p>I have a Cartesian printer in a cubic format (the bed moves vertically) with Marlin 2.x</p> <p>I am not finding a way to make it move to Z-max (23 cm) when finishing the printing.</p> <p>The idea is to lower the bed all the way to the max, to make easy removal of the printed piece.</p>

14509

How to move Z-axis to a specificic position (Z-max) after printing?

<p>To move the bed down, you simply instruct the bed to do so after the print.</p> <p>The best way to do that is add a G-code line to your &quot;end G-code&quot; script you find in your slicer you use.</p> <p>Just add the line:</p> <pre><code>G1 Z230 F500 </code></pre> <p>With this command you instruct the bed to lower to your maximum Z height at speed (feed rate) 500 mm per minute.</p>

2020-09-28T02:02:51.437

|marlin|flsun-3d-cube|mks|

<p>I have an FLSun 3D Cube, running off an MKS GEN V.1.4 main board. With Marlin 1.0, the Z-axis works great (and has been for three years). When I try to upgrade to Marlin 2.0, moving the Z-axis 10 mm results in extreme motion -50 mm at least, left motor then the right motor, three or four times, very fast. It's loud, it's jarring, and it's at the very least incorrect.</p> <p>What setting am I missing?</p>

14512

Marlin 1.0 works: Marlin 2.0 destroys Z-axis motion

<p>I believe (<a href="https://gist.github.com/ellisgl/3b92a7fbca4962297bec4c906420a916" rel="nofollow noreferrer">from reference</a>) the default steps per mm for the FLSUN 3D Cube are:</p> <pre><code> X, Y, Z, E0 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 400, 150 } </code></pre> <p>Default marlin 2.0.x are:</p> <pre><code> X, Y, Z, E0 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 } </code></pre> <p>Such a setting would explain the excessive speeds; while the printer only needs 400 steps for advancing a single millimeter, the stepper receives 4000, this implies a tenfold, hence larger displacement and higher speeds.</p>

2020-09-28T16:00:06.823

|heated-bed|adhesion|

<p>Of course I'm referring to side by side and not stacking or overlapping. 200 x 200 mm PEI and Kapton sheets are more readily available than 400 x 400 sheets. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this and if the edges of the sheets cause a problem.</p>

14516

Has anyone applied four 200 x 200 mm PEI sheets to a 400 x 400 mm bed?

<p>Aligning build surfaces isn't the main issue with 1 mm thick surfaces when aligning four 200 x 200 mm surfaces to make one 400 x 400 surface. The main issue is slight bucking at the seams from thermal mismatch. Using this with PETG tends to tear up the build surface at the seams. The image shows aligned surfaces.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/14q3L.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/14q3L.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The above was a poor design because prints tended to always print on the seams, which are more susceptible to damage when removing the print.</p> <p>More reliable was to put one 200 x 200 mm surface in the center of the bed, cut the other three in half, and tile them along the sides. Glue stice helps fill the seams.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The center of the surface tends to wear out first. In that case only the center surface would need changing.</p>

2020-09-29T06:24:13.407

|creality-ender-3|extruder|bowden|retraction|

<h3>Background</h3> <p>I bought an Ender 3 v2 printer, everything has been working fine, been experimenting with harder and higher temperature filaments like different variations of PLA and PETG.</p> <p>Original extruder would bite the filament too hard sometimes and snap it, if it's loose it would grind it, filling its teeth with material that needs to be cleaned out.</p> <p>I bought a BMG clone (TriangleLab) extruder and set it up according to BondTech instructions but without having to invert the stepper motor rotation and set E-Steps to 419, which seems to be printing fine.</p> <p>It's still using the stock hotend but with 0.6 mm hardened steel nozzle. I do have BLTouch add-on and I'm using firmware compiled from tip of <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x" rel="nofollow noreferrer">bugfix-2.0.x</a> branch of Marlin with stock Creality v4.2.2 board. Firmware Configuration modifications were done to accommodate BLTouch alone.</p> <h3>Problem</h3> <p>I have to manually heat the nozzle and manually extrude about 200-250 mm from LCD menu, otherwise once print starts, no material will come out.</p> <p>I checked the bowden tube with a torchlight since it's translucent using a black filament to print and noticed that after machine is stopped (from menu or after print ends), extruder will pull the filament almost all the way out while pulling up Z axis to clear some height, requiring me to manually extrude before next print so tube won't be empty. Previously with stock extruder I didn't have to do anything, the initial print on left hand side of bed or skirt print would take care of putting it back in location.</p> <p>I've been googling and looking at Cura and Firmware (<code>configuration.h</code>) for a while now but I couldn't figure out why this is happening.</p> <p>This is my End code in Cura. I do suspect 3rd line has something to do with it but I don't understand what that means.</p> <pre><code>G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z M300 S440 P200 M300 S660 P250 M300 S880 P300 </code></pre> <p>Retraction settings are stock settings in Cura, haven't touched them.</p> <p>The <code>Configuration.h</code> file is found <a href="https://pastebin.com/rrXyp8MY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>, the <code>Configuration_adv.h</code> file is found <a href="https://pastebin.com/gP4WqrQg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p> <p>Update: This happened again with Benchy print but about 4 cm unlike previously, half of the skirt print failed but actual print was OK. Below is last part of print Gcode. End code isn't different from Cura settings printer end code.</p> <pre><code>G1 X105.151 Y113.199 E313.92164 G0 F7200 X105.155 Y112.539 ;TIME_ELAPSED:3369.503317 G1 F3000 E307.42164 M140 S0 M107 G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positionning G1 X0 Y220 ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z M300 S440 P200 M300 S660 P250 M300 S880 P300 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode M104 S0 ;End of Gcode ;SETTING_3 {&quot;extruder_quality&quot;: [&quot;[general]\\nversion = 4\\nname = Ideagen Nozzl ;SETTING_3 e-0.6 #3\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[metadata]\\ntype = q ;SETTING_3 uality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nposition = 0\\nsetting_ver ;SETTING_3 sion = 15\\nintent_category = default\\n\\n[values]\\nfill_outline_ga ;SETTING_3 ps = True\\ninfill_overlap = 10\\ninfill_sparse_density = 40\\ninitia ;SETTING_3 l_layer_line_width_factor = 120\\nironing_only_highest_layer = True\\ ;SETTING_3 nmaterial_flow = 92.5\\nmaterial_print_temperature = 210\\nretraction ;SETTING_3 _count_max = 10\\nretraction_retract_speed = 50\\nspeed_print = 60\\n ;SETTING_3 speed_travel = 120.0\\nsupport_infill_rate = 5\\ntop_bottom_thickness ;SETTING_3 = 1.05\\ntop_thickness = 1.05\\nwall_thickness = 1.2\\nzig_zaggify_i ;SETTING_3 nfill = True\\n\\n&quot;], &quot;global_quality&quot;: &quot;[general]\\nversion = 4\\nna ;SETTING_3 me = Ideagen Nozzle-0.6 #3\\ndefinition = creality_ender3pro\\n\\n[me ;SETTING_3 tadata]\\ntype = quality_changes\\nquality_type = standard\\nsetting_ ;SETTING_3 version = 15\\n\\n[values]\\nlayer_height = 0.35\\nlayer_height_0 = 0 ;SETTING_3 .4\\nretraction_combing = infill\\n\\n&quot;} </code></pre>

14519

Why would my extruder remove the filament all the way out after prints? [Ender 3 v2]

<p>As mentioned in the comments, extrusion stopped working altogether at some point halfway through a Benchy print. Once I had opened compressing lever of BMG clone extruder, I observed that gears were loose, after disassembling the extruder noticed that both extruder side and stepper motor side gears were also loosened at hex head screw keys which were keeping them in place. I ordered a <a href="https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_243.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">thread locker</a> to address that at another time, seems like vibrations due to constant retractions loosened them.</p> <p>After tightening and reassembling, issue is not bad to the point prints would fail to start, however filament is not primed enough, so some of the skirt print will be blank.</p> <p>I also added <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3425505" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> with 608Z bearings for supporting the smooth movement of spool. Turns out 608 bearings are widely available almost everywhere, roller skates and skateboards use them, so there is a good chance your local sports shop will have it, too.</p> <p>I installed Octoprint on my laptop to work around this issue as below:</p> <pre><code>G92 E0 ; Set Extruder position to 0 G1 E100 F200 ; Extrude 100 mm slowly. This is to make sure hotend is not empty and material flow is consistent, i.e. adjust temperature if necessary. </code></pre> <p>Only then I start my prints.</p> <p>I learnt that using <code>E&lt;integer&gt;</code> to extrude and <code>E-&lt;integer&gt;</code> retract, I can replace filament too, by using big enough numbers like 350 mm, so I don't have to fiddle with compression lever or its adjustments anymore.</p> <p><strong>Update:</strong> I found more mechanical problems. This issue is not software related. Please see useful advice in comments regarding retraction/priming as an improvement if not solution to this problem.</p>

2020-09-29T09:25:19.687

|fusion360|

<p>I'm trying to create a sketch that is constrained by surface area.</p> <p>In my model I have a relatively irregular, flat area that I would like to constrain by area so that it never exceeds a certain number. There are a lot of other constraints for angles, lengths, points, lines and the area of a surface is also always available in the properties. As a rather new person to Fusion 360, it feels logical a constraint by surface area should be possible.</p> <p>Am I missing something or is there a good reason why this constraint doesn't exist?</p>

14520

Constrain by surface area in Fusion 360

<p>After some testing, Fusion does have a category to put in an Area parameter [edit -&gt; Parameters -&gt;] for Area that takes measurements in acres and <em>circular mil</em> but no useful measurements such as square centimeters or square inch. One <em><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circular_mil" rel="nofollow noreferrer">circular mil</a></em> is defined as a circle with a radius of 1/1000 inch, or 0.0254 mm, for an area of <span class="math-container">$5.067×10^{−4}\text{ mm}^2$</span>.</p> <p>However, defining the area of an item isn't (currently) straightforwardly possible: areas are not defineable, and with the obvious lack of possible parameters (square metrics and anything but super tiny or super huge) it doesn't seem to be planned. The best you can do is for bodies that you know the formula for the area in the following fashion:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ2tt.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ2tt.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Here, the left measurement (d2) is 1 mm. The parameter area is 10000 circular mil. Since we know A=d1*d2, we can go A/d2=d1 for a rectangle.</p>

2020-09-29T13:02:47.180

|3d-models|software|resin|

<p>I am using an AnyCubic Photon Resin Printer. I have used the (<a href="https://wowmodelviewer.net" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WoW model viewer</a> to export a miniture that I am hoping to 3D print.</p> <p>However, when I look at the model in photon workshop, certain parts appear in a different colour, and those parts are printing incorrectly on the final version. For example, if you look at the model below the headpiece feathers printed as a solid block all the way to the base of the model.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnmjT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnmjT.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiLiX.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiLiX.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Looking at the slicing file, this is what photon workshop exported. I believe the issue may be that, because these are models deisigned for games and not 3d printing, they have only one surface and what I am looking at in Blue is what the photon workshop considers to be the inside of the model. Would ye be able to recommend any steps that I could do to adjust the models to allow them be 3D printed?</p> <p><a href="https://mega.nz/file/p6I00JZK#qhQplzOTh6w7yZxbGw2vtRRKc-iVDp_QHOvaWfPtULs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://mega.nz/file/p6I00JZK#qhQplzOTh6w7yZxbGw2vtRRKc-iVDp_QHOvaWfPtULs</a></p> <p>The above link is the object as exported from WoW Model viewer.</p>

14521

How to fix WoW models in photon workshop

<p>First of all, Fred's answer is very well but some more items to note, and a different way to fix them using blender.</p> <p>After opening blender, deleting the box with <code>entf</code> and importing the <code>Wavefront .obj</code>, I changed to edit mode and started inspecting the colored areas for artifacts and what they were.</p> <h2>Layered surface only areas</h2> <p>The top feathers are made up from 3 layers of surfaces:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/anUKv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/anUKv.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>This could be easily fixed by removing the middle layer, then connecting the front and back with new faces. In investigating this I also noted, that many of the faces actually are unconnected, so we fix that first, running a Merge intersecting vertices: <code>rightclick</code> -&gt; <code>Merge Vertices</code> -&gt; <code>By Distance</code>. Then, all the lines are blue - this means, that the lines are determined as &quot;sharp edges&quot; so we change to edge select, <code>A</code>, then <code>rightclick</code> -&gt; <code>clear sharp</code>. Much better. Now, select the vertices in between the front and back, and delete them via <code>entf</code>.</p> <p>After that work-over, the area looks like this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8Fcy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S8Fcy.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>So, next is re-skinning those edges. Select the remaining edges on the outside in pairs, then <code>F</code> to create a face between them, rinse, and repeat. But that does not yet solve the facing issue, because the faces are an odd gradient, not pure color, and as is evident, all the normals (<a href="https://www.katsbits.com/codex/show-normals/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">activate them via a menu</a>):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGL9R.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGL9R.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>All normals are messed up! so we need to recalculate them. Recalculating them is <code>A</code> till everything is selected, then <code>Ctrl</code>+<code>Shift</code>+<code>N</code>, and voila, that area is reworked to a good part:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlbLO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlbLO.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Now, we are going to export the file as <code>.stl</code>: even though Cura can take <code>.obj</code>, it has trouble to analyze those for facing properly at times. So let's look if we fixed that area alright... and in Cura now looks like this (OBJ left, STL right):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcEBN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcEBN.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>However, as I will show later, this is the work-intensive way, so don't really bother with those areas, we'll fix them all at once later.</p> <h2>Single surface only areas</h2> <p>Next, the shoulder details. Those are also one surface only, so we need to give them some heft. I am talking these (grey) ones:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TY6pG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TY6pG.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I hid the bulk of the model (the selected, orange parts) first using <code>H</code> so it is more visible. Then I selected the upper 'wing', then pressed <code>E</code> for extrude. Type in <code>.01</code> to define that thickness as how much it should extrude it out. Repeat for the other part. <code>ALT</code>+<code>H</code> to unhide the parts we had hidden before and Voila: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwWKC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwWKC.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>However, the newly thickened parts did not intersect the body properly yet, so we need to fix that a little, as seen here: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eC3tV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eC3tV.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>So, select the area we need to fix and <code>E</code> for Extrude. Slowly pull till the two parts intersect neatly:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sMa1.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sMa1.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <h2>floating details</h2> <p>Next step: the floating gem in front of the head!</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gr44G.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gr44G.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Here fixing gets tricky. We might either just delete the crystal and print it separately and fix it with a little piece of wire later, or we need to create a strut. So, let's do the latter! We select the edges on the backside of the crystal like so...</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAfdL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAfdL.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><code>rightclick</code> -&gt; <code>Subdivide</code> and then in the lower left corner set it to 2:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/htA77.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/htA77.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Select the center and <code>E</code>xtrude</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEzGG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEzGG.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Keep the area selected and <code>G</code> for moving it down into the head, till we are happy with the look:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRRWQ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRRWQ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <h2>superfluous surfaces</h2> <p>Then there are some areas that contain &quot;extra&quot; surfaces, those can be deleted, such as this rectangular one and this feather inside the arm:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCi5t.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCi5t.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWk6F.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWk6F.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <h2>Fixng most surface only areas</h2> <p>Another problematic area is the facemask, which is only a single layer, but wrapped around the face it is a little more tricky to extrude:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfeBh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfeBh.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>This area can be fixed by running a solidify operation, which also makes fixing the feathers individually obsolete! So, how to run solidify?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7xzZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7xzZ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> On the right bar, click the wrench, in the dropdown choose solidify, set the thickness to 0.01 and... voila! Mostly fixed... well, we need to fix a few normals, as you'll see here:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQW0R.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQW0R.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> so, let's select everything with <code>A</code>, then recalculate normals with <code>CTRL</code>+<code>SHIFT</code>+<code>N</code>, make sure that inside is not checked in the lower right corner, so the modeled surface is on the outside shell... and we are DONE! Export as STL or OBJ and go to test it!</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lbQBH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lbQBH.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <h2>Check in Cura</h2> <p>Now, to check if we still have reversed surfaces, I imported into Acura and... all the red areas (overhangs) are where they belong: on the underside! So... yep, we are done. Make sure to have the unify intersecting shells option on. You also might want to add some more struts for floating shoulder armor and such... It's a labor intensive work, but in the end you'll have a printable object.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AjEK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3AjEK.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2020-10-01T21:49:18.667

|print-material|

<p>My goal is to have a speaker inside a PLA casing to produce a nice hearable sound from a submersible item.</p> <p>I intended to produce that sound from a Piezo buzzer stuck on a membrane held tight in hollow place between two pieces, but the result is unsatisfactory as the sound gets muffled to inaudible levels.</p> <p>Is there any known 3D printable methods to permit for a sound to be heard from PLA?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLaB3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLaB3.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

14531

Can PLA carry sound coming from a loud speaker?

<p>I did a lot of experimentation in this a couple years ago. The limitation on the sound is the amount of energy you can apply to the plastic, and the ability of the plastic to respond (move to) that energy. I ended up using epoxy to fasten a transducer directly to the plastic wall, and while the sound quality was not great (I could not have used it for speech or music) it was adequate to make the alarm sound, 50% PWM @ 3.3V and I controlled the frequency using the Arduino 'tone' library to control the frequency. I printed that side solid (no infill) and a bit thinner than the other sides (2mm instead of 4mm), printed it separately and then used epoxy to glue in (and its attached transducer) to the cube I was using for the rest of the circuitry.</p>

2020-10-03T15:43:04.700

|heated-bed|electronics|bq-hephestos|

<p>After some months of good quality prints, since yesterday my heatbed does not heat anymore.</p> <p>I've a BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos with <a href="https://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD-Mk2b-dual-power_blk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> heatbed, controlled by <a href="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71M29xMMLZL._AC_SY355_.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> mechanical relay and powered by <a href="https://www.amazon.it/Lixada-Trasformatore-Tensione-Interruttore-Alimentazione/dp/B00ECW6K74" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> power source. I know that a mechanical relay is not the best choice for a 3D printer, but I only had one of those when I've built the bed and setting <em>bang bang control</em> for the plate gave me some satisfactory prints.</p> <p>Since if I connect directly the heatbed to the power source, the latter stops working (I think because of its shortage protection), I'm almost sure that in some way I've managed to fry my heatbed. Before buying a new one, though, I'd like to understand how I've broken the current heatbed without doing anything but printing, to avoid similar situations in the future.</p> <p>I'm afraid I've forgotten some component whose functionality is to protect the heatbed (maybe a diode or something similar, I'm sorry but I have never studied electronics).</p> <p>I've attached a very simple wiring diagram showing the current configuration.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHA7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHA7.png" alt="Wiring diagram" /></a></p>

14536

Short-circuited heatbed

<p>I see four points of error:</p> <ul> <li>The heatbed could be faulty.</li> <li>The lines could be faulty.</li> <li>The trigger signal could be faulty.</li> <li>The power supply could be faulty.</li> </ul> <p>So, how to check what it might be? We need to measure, but we need to measure in a setup of 12/24 V circuits while they are live. While not necessarily considered &quot;dangerous&quot;, take extra precautions! Remove the parts you will need to access from the machine, ground the power supply, and use your utmost care! Make sure the heatbed is not connected to the Power supply, so we can measure it in the safest way.</p> <h1>Ruling out the Heatbed</h1> <p>The first step can be done without power: the resistance of the heatbed should be non-0, non-open line. It's best to measure directly at the input pins to the bed. If it shows close to 0 (some milli-Ohms), open line (OL), or no continuity (NC), it has a short or is burned out and needs to be replaced.</p> <h1>Ruling out the Power Supply</h1> <p>Once we have reached a safe setup, take a voltmeter and measure the voltage (potential difference) on the pins you reserve for the heatbed. If it is 12 V with some tolerance, it's good, otherwise you might need to get a new power supply or have a professional fix yours.</p> <h1>Ruling out the trigger signal</h1> <p>Next, move your measuring to the output of the board. Now order your board to heat up the bed. Make no illusions, we <strong>will</strong> trigger TRP, as the bed is disconnected. This will need us to reset the board between tests. You should see a 5 V trigger signal. If not, your board or firmware might be faulty and require different investigations.</p> <h1>Ruing out the lines and switch</h1> <p>Next step is to swap to Resistance mode on the multimeter and measure the resistance of the switch, best with the whole power line. Under &quot;heating&quot;, the setup should show a close to 0 Ohm resistance, if not it should show an infinite or open line.</p> <h1>What now?!</h1> <p>If it is neither of the 4, reassemble on the test stand, reconnect the bed to the power supply and investigate all connections between the elements we just checked. Now order a heating procedure - as all components should be ok, it has to be one of the interfaces between the parts.</p>

2020-10-10T18:33:50.613

|troubleshooting|3d-design|

<p>I am trying to 3D print an object from Shapeways. Confidentiality prevents me from sharing the actual STL files publicly, but what I can say is that it's a shape about 2 cm tall x 4 cm wide x 4 cm deep, and where the design specifies a vertical hole 5 mm in diameter, the hole comes out fine, but where the design specifies multiple holes 3 mm in diameter, passing diagonally through the shape (at a 45° angle with the ground), the holes seem to collapse (i.e. I can't see through them, and if I push a straightened paper clip through the hole, it's blocked). This has happened repeatedly (e.g. Shapeways offered to re-print some shapes for free when they came out defective, but this happened the second time too).</p> <p>I am new to 3D printing and trying to figure out:</p> <ul> <li><p>Is the hole more likely to &quot;collapse&quot; if it's diagonal rather than straight up and down? Is this because when the shape is being 3D printed, it's oriented exactly as shown in the design, and so before the 3D printing materials have fully solidified, the holes are more likely to be collapsed by gravity? Or does it have more to do with the diameter of the holes, and if I made the shape with 5 mm diagonal holes, they might not collapse?</p> </li> <li><p>The material I'm picking from Shapeways's options is &quot;Black Natural Versatile Plastic&quot;. Are there other materials that are less likely to have this problem?</p> </li> </ul>

14562

Vertical 5 mm diameter hole comes out fine, but diagonal 3 mm holes keep collapsing

<p>A member of the public on Stack Exchange's forum gave me the answer:</p> <p>&quot;The problem is not the hole 'collapsing' in and of itself. The problem is the material. Versatile Plastic is a layered powder fused together with a laser in multiple layers, so the unused power has to come out from the various holes in the model once printing is completed. However, these layers are also very thin and compact. Therefore, if you make a small enough hole, the powder simply won't flow through it and it becomes stuck. Due to the small dimensions you listed (of said hole) it's gonna be difficult to free it due to the sheer compressing forces involved. When working with such fine details Versatile Plastic is not the most indicated material.</p> <p>The only correction you can make to rectify the problem is changing material. Fine Detail Plastic would be a good choice for a new test, although it is not cheap compared to Versatile, is certainly cheaper than metals.</p> <p>Fine Detail Plastic should provide you with a good result if you feel like trying it out.&quot;</p> <p>ShapeWays technical support told me basically the same thing, and added that ordering the shape in black might also exacerbate the problem:</p> <p>He said that when a model has holes in it, a human actually pokes the holes to get residual material out if possible. Then he adds: &quot;The last issue would be that Black indeed causes additional issues. If the production team isn't able to clean the model properly, or didn't do their work right, this could become and issue when we dye your model. All Versatile Plastic is printed in White, when selecting a colored finish such as black, we dye the model using a bath of regular RIT DYE. If the hole still has trapped powder, the bath will make the loose powder wet and make it become sticky, in combination with the dye this causes it to become chunky on the inside.&quot;</p> <p>TL;DR: I can try to fix it by using Fine Detail Plastic, or I could try ordering in white and then painting it black myself to avoid gunking up the holes (the insides of the holes don't need to be painted black).</p>

2020-10-10T19:46:37.463

|3d-models|

<p>I have designed this model: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAoeP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZAoeP.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>My goal is to make it static, no vulnarable to shakes. The pitch is 40 mm with 4 revolutions. The dimensions of the 'wire' are 5x5 mm. Which settings for printing should I use to archieve hardness? I plan to make the wire 5x10 mm height, 4 walls, 0.28 layer height, 0.5 nozzle size. PLA. I don't know if this is overkill or it will be useless.</p> <p>I hope you can give me suggestions about printing settings and model dimensions. I know that's spring design, which is made to be springy but I need it for other use.</p> <p>Second design. Less springy, but not by much. My last hope is to print it horizontaly. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q8pxZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q8pxZ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

14563

How to print spiral(spring) static?

<p>If you want an helicoidal object which acts relatively rigid, you should pick a plastic which is very rigid to begin with. In the case of 3D printing, probably PLA is the best choice. Make it as thick as you can in all the directions where you have no constraints.</p> <p>Still, it's an object which will be hardly printable without dissolving support material. You need a two material 3D printer if you want to get good results.</p>

2020-10-12T11:27:14.187

|slic3r|prusaslicer|

<p>I love PrusaSlicer but I am having a problem. As you can see in the picture the head makes movements that seem useless<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CLrS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CLrS.png" alt="Previsualisation" /></a></p> <p>(blue lines that come out of the print in the corners and go back instantly in the object) and these make damages to the object during the print.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOA3y.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOA3y.jpg" alt="During the print" /></a></p> <p>How to configure PrusaSlicer so that doesn't happen again ? Thank you.</p> <p>Edit : Thank you for your answers but I think we have a misunderstanding. I already have z-hop activated, the real problem is that the slicer makes the head move outside the print (that's what you can see on the first screenshot, every blue line crossing the print shouldn't exist). I actually don't have this problem with curaengine on repetierhost as you can see in the following screenshot :</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0b73.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0b73.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

14570

Useless head movements in PrusaSlicer

<p>I found the solution : It was the option &quot;avoid crossing perimeters&quot; that seems to do exactly the contrary of what it means. Thank you all for your answers.</p>

2020-10-12T21:23:57.327

|troubleshooting|printer-building|hypercube|

<p>I am currently building a Hypercube Evolution from a kit that was passed on to me. It uses a BIQU KFB2.0 control board and a 24 volt power supply. I have no prior experience in 3D printing.</p> <p>I was getting to the end of the build. Everything was working. I was testing every component as I added it using Pronterface. I have not covered the aluminium heated bed with anything as I did not want to cause problems for the induction sensor (used as Z Min endstop). The induction sensor has a 4 mm range for ferrous metal and less for aluminium. I was intending to print on blue tape.</p> <p>One website I visited suggested using feeler gauges as a better choice when levelling the bed. So I did. What I did not know is that both the hotend and the bed have power running to the outer surface. I found out when a feeler gauge touched the bed and the hotend at the same time. Since then, my LCD display gives the message &quot;Thermal Runaway E1 press reset&quot;. I have pressed reset on the control board to no avail. Short press, long (5 and 10 seconds) and double press. None of which work. I have disconnected the hotend and it's thermistor from the control board. I have tried using another thermistor, but to no avail. Pronterface, when trying to connect, gives the following two lines:</p> <p>&quot;Error: Thermal Runaway, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 Error: Printer halted, kill() called!&quot;</p> <p>I have disconnected all wires from the control board other than those leading to the LCD screen. The only power coming from the PSU. Still have the Thermal Runaway E1 error.</p> <p>I have also re-compiled Marlin 2.0.6.1 using Auto Build Marlin and uploaded to the board, still the error persists. Anybody any idea how to fix this problem?</p>

14576

Thermal Runaway E1

<p>I found the solution. Controller board was broken, I had to order a new one.</p>

2020-10-13T19:10:24.833

|g-code|3d-printerworks|

<p>I've started learning G-code for 3D printing and I'm quite confused.</p> <p>I'm using an Ultimaker S5 printer and the firmware is : 5.5.12 - 20200226-UltiBot</p> <ol> <li>Is there a difference between <code>G1 F1200 X188 Y92 E0.01</code> and <code>G1 X188 Y92 F1200 E0.01</code>?</li> <li>Most of my code looks like: <code>G1 X[coordinate] Y[coordinate] E[num]</code> without Z! How is this possible?! My model is a 3D-model so how come the letter Z appears about 5 times in tens of papers?</li> </ol> <p>Any help would be greatly appreciated!</p>

14580

Order in a line command in G-code

<p>I haven't used every flavor of gcode or firmware, but I've never seen the parameter order be important, provided that:</p> <ol> <li><p>The <strong>G</strong> or <strong>M</strong> code was the initial entry; and</p> </li> <li><p>Each parameter was clearly listed with one or more spaces between parameters; and</p> </li> <li><p>No spaces were in between the parameter letter and the value.</p> </li> </ol> <p>We use a custom version of Repetier firmware to run 3D printers and Fadal CNC machines, and in every use <code> G1 F1200 X188 Y92 E0.01</code> would be evaluated and executed completely identically to <code>G1 X188 Y92 F1200 E0.01</code></p> <p>Nearly all gocde variable values are persistent, so if Z remains unchanged because it is only specified once per layer, or if Z remains unchanged because it is explicitly specified (with the same value) on every line, there should be no difference in the behavior of the printer.</p>

2020-10-15T13:41:46.213

|extruder|electronics|bq-hephestos|

<p>I've a problem with my BQ i3 Hephestos.</p> <p>I've noticed that in the last few prints that I've experienced some temperature drops every now and then. Yesterday, after 3 of a 4 hours long print, the hotend completely cooled down (I have Octoprint and from the temperature graph it was visible the exponential decrease to 25 °C). Apart from realizing that, evidently, I have not any cold extrusion prevention set up on my Marlin firmware (I'll surely fix that asap), yesterday I've shut everything down with the idea to try again today. This morning, though, I could not start my print because the heater didn't even warm up.</p> <p>After disassembling the hotend I've tried the following things:</p> <ul> <li>I've tested the thermocouple putting it near the heated bed and it measures the correct value</li> <li>with a tester I've measured the voltage that goes into the resistance (<span class="math-container">$\approx 12\ V$</span>)</li> <li>I've measured the resistance with the tester (<span class="math-container">$\approx 3\ \Omega$</span>)</li> </ul> <p>I've also noticed that while <span class="math-container">$12\ V$</span> is the voltage that the printer sends to the resistance, measured when the resistance is not attached to it, if I repeat the measurement with the resistance attached to the printer I get a few <span class="math-container">$mV$</span>. I really don't know whether it is the expected behavior or not.</p> <hr /> <p>Further inspection...</p> <p>Trying to inspect the cables better I've noticed a black spot on the connector of my Ramps 1.4 board (as you can see in the attached image).</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5aM6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5aM6.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>At this point I think I may have damaged something with too much current/too much heat. Too much current it seems strange to me because I have never changed anything in that sense, It is exactly the same as when I have bought the printer. It may be something related to the heat as the problem firstly occurred only on long prints (some hours).</p> <p>I don't know if this clarify something to you, but to me it says almost nothing...</p> <hr /> <p><strong>UPDATE</strong></p> <p>I've tried to attach the heater again to its original place and now it seems to work (in the sense that it gets hot). I've initially set the temperature to 60 °C, and it had no problem reaching and keeping it. Then I've tried to raise it to 180 °C but I had to shut down the heater after a few seconds because the cables became very hot and <em>tender</em> and it smelled of burnt</p>

14596

Hotend not heating

<p>In the end it turned to be that the RAMPS board was ruined.</p> <p>I bought a new RAMPS board and it worked immediately.</p>

2020-10-16T09:08:05.743

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|

<p>I'm trying to print a small box with 1 mm thick walls. The box has rounded corners.</p> <p>Cura slices the rounded corners with straight internal lines instead of rounded lines:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kw87.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kw87.jpg" alt="Rounded Corners with infill" /></a></p> <p>The reason for these straight lines is that Cura is using infill to fill the walls, because it determines that there's not enough space in a 1 mm wall for three 0.4 mm passes.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDQAc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDQAc.png" alt="Rounded Corners without infill" /></a></p> <p>This causes the walls to have small imperfections in the final print. I was able to solve this by increasing the model wall thickness to 1.2 mm (to allow for 3 0.4 mm lines), but even then it wasn't doing it as a single continuous line, but instead breaking it into short lines at the corner:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqSAN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqSAN.png" alt="Rounded corners for 1.2 mm thick walls" /></a></p> <p>Is there a way to avoid this issue without increasing the wall thickness, and have 3 continuous lines?</p>

14599

How to slice rounded corners in thin walls with Cura

<p>Contrary to the other answer, this is not (exclusively) a model / geometry issue.</p> <p>Frame challenge: There's no good / easy solution to this when using Cura, at least that I know of. Better slicers can easily handle this situation though.</p> <p>I replicated all the tests in SuperSlicer, which is a PrusaSlicer branch. All tests were done with models with relatively high resolution:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkzvI.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkzvI.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>As well as a model which I created to replicate a <em>horrible</em> quality .stl:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e305x.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e305x.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>I checked the continuity of the added internal line with Simplify3D's g-code preview.</p> <p>For a 0.4 mm extrusion width and a 1 mm wall thickness, PrusaSlicer simply adds a 0.2 mm line in the middle. This line is completely uninterrupted:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tB9Tl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tB9Tl.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The same happens with the very rough .stl:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAedT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAedT.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The same thing happens when using a 1.2 mm wall thickness: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPhFY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPhFY.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b5mz9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/b5mz9.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Conclusion: You should not be adding esoteric &quot;fixes&quot; to your models to prop up terrible slicer performance.</p>

2020-10-17T06:32:00.370

|lcd-screen|mks|display|

<p>Although it seems this question has been answered before <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6030/connecting-anet-a8-2004-display-to-mks-gen-l">Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L</a> this one differs because the v2.0 board has no obvious AUX-2 connector.</p> <p>So the question is, how can I connect the Anet A8 LCD Panel (with buttons) to the MKS Gen L V2.0 board? Or where can I find the schematics?</p>

14601

Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L V2.0

<p>It probably can be done, but, it requires some splicing of your LCD cables (or using some Dupont male-female cables) and altering of the firmware pins header files.</p> <p>The MKS GEN L v2.0 lacks the AUX-2 port that is present on the v1.0 controller boards. The reason for this is that they implemented support for more modern stepper drivers like the trinamic drivers that are capable of using UART to set stepper options.</p> <p>The old v1.0 pin layout is displayed below: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tw1Mz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="MKS GEN L v1.0 pin layout"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tw1Mz.png" alt="MKS GEN L v1.0 pin layout" title="MKS GEN L v1.0 pin layout" /></a></p> <p>The new v2.0 pin layout is dislayed below: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH6xa.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="MKS GEN L v2.0 pin layout"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH6xa.png" alt="MKS GEN L v2.0 pin layout" title="MKS GEN L v2.0 pin layout" /></a></p> <p>The Anet A8 2004 graphical display (so-called ZONESTAR_LCD) uses (at least one as the buttons are suited with different resistors) analog pin that is used to detect which buttons are pushed.</p> <pre><code>#elif ENABLED(ZONESTAR_LCD) #define ADC_KEYPAD_PIN 12 </code></pre> <p>Pins <code>A5</code> and <code>A9-12</code>, <code>D40</code>, <code>D42</code> and <code>D44</code> are used according to the pin layout.</p> <p>In the <code>pins_RAMPS.h</code> header file the display usage is coded as:</p> <pre><code>#elif ENABLED(ZONESTAR_LCD) #define LCD_PINS_RS 64 #define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 44 #define LCD_PINS_D4 63 #define LCD_PINS_D5 40 #define LCD_PINS_D6 42 #define LCD_PINS_D7 65 </code></pre> <p>In order for this to work on the MKS GEN L v2.0, you need to source for free pins that can mimic these pins and alter the header file and create a spliced LCD cable.</p> <p>It might be much easier to buy a new reprap discount display controller for about 10 bucks/euros and connect it to the dedicated EXP1/2 headers. Stay away from the Anet A6 graphical display.</p>

2020-10-18T18:20:00.700

|hotend|anycubic-i3-mega|

<p><strong>[SOLVED]</strong> on [EDIT 3]</p> <p>I just finished changing my i3 Mega's PTFE tube and brass nozzle, reassembled it, always taking care not to damage the heating element and thermistor wires. Then I check the temperature and it was cooling down, despite the set temperature being higher (210 ºC). I turned it off, let it cool down and turned it back on. I set it again to 210 ºC and it only reaches about 135 ºC-140 ºC, not going over it. So I change the heating element and thermistor for fresh new ones (original ones, that came with the printer) and the same behavior takes place: not heating up beyond 140 ºC.</p> <p>Any ideas on why this is happening or how to fix it? I checked the connectors and they all seem to be fine. Cooling fans run normally as well.</p> <p>Printer: Anycubic i3 MEGA. All stock parts, except the new nozzle (standard brass nozzle) and the PTFE tube (a blue one with 1.9 mm internal diameter). I'm setting the temperatures through the printer's interface, as I have always done.</p> <p><strong>[EDIT]</strong></p> <p>I did check some stuff with the multimeter and what I got is that:</p> <ul> <li>The cables leading to the print head are fine;</li> <li>The heating element's voltage is correct and the MOSFET seems to be working fine both by checking the voltage and from the LED that lights up when it is sending current to the HE;</li> <li>The resistance of the HE is correct as well;</li> </ul> <p>Form that, I am guessing the problem is the current fed to the HE. Later today I will try to heat both the nozzle and the bed to the (safe) max temperatures and see if the bed heating is problematic too. If so, the problem should be related to current.</p> <p>If anyone has any other ideas, they are appreciated! :)</p> <p><strong>[EDIT2]</strong></p> <p>Heating up the print bed and the hotend at the same time didn't affect the bed at all. It heated up at the same pace as usual. Since the cables are fine, it shouldn't be a problem related to the power supply.</p> <p>So I'm gessing the problem is the motherboard (Trigorilla 1.1). It didn't seem to have any burned components at a glance but I'm gonna check with a multimeter.</p> <p><strong>[EDIT3]</strong></p> <p>Turns out I messed up the heatbreaker, so the heatsink was cooling the hotend way too much... This is one way of learning I need to be careful with the heatbreaker, I guess. I'll leave a solution here for the newbies like me that end up in a similar situation.</p>

14607

Anycubic i3 MEGA not heating past 140 ºC

<p>There is a part of the extrusion ensemble called heatbreaker, responsible for sepparating the hot- and cold-ends. The problem is that I screwed the heatbreak up into the cold-end heatsinks and the heated block was now touching it. This made it cool off way too hard.</p> <p>The solution was switching to a new, undamaged cold+hotend.</p>

2020-10-19T18:01:44.177

|wiring|tmc2208|

<p>I would like to place the TMC drivers (the stepsticks modules, in fact) on the side of my controller board for easier cooling.</p> <p>What is the maximum length of the data wires? Specifically, Step and UART, the other ones should not pose any problem.</p> <p>In my case I would extend them by about 10 cm.</p>

14614

What is the maximum length of the TMC drivers signal wires?

<p>10 cm would be fine. That's the short answer, the real answer is that it depends on the UART speed and the exact conditions that you will be extending them. If you expect noise feedback from the motor coils inducing voltages into the UART lines, then perhaps they should be shorter. Keep the high current wires and the signal (UART) in separate places if possible. Also if you can use a shielded cable (e.g. and old shielded USB cable) then you could get away with a meter thereabout.</p>

2020-10-19T20:12:14.943

|3d-design|post-processing|

<p>I have a 3D print where there are 5 holes with a diameter of 4 mm in a cup, and I would like liquid to flow through all 5 holes at once while slowly draining the cup (by slowly I mean: just take a few seconds and not drain instantly). Therefore the holes can not be very large.</p> <p>When I fill water in the cup it drains fine until there is a small amount of water left, and then it just stops with a small layer of water flowing over the holes.</p> <p>I'm guessing it is due to surface tension and not enough pressure from water above to push the water through...</p> <p>Is there a hole design that fixes this problem? I don't know what to Google or if this is the right place to ask the question. It just takes too long to guess my way through and print every attempt at the right size or shape of hole (which I have done so far and still got nothing).</p>

14616

Water does not flow through 4 mm hole when there is a small amount, how to let water flow through small hole even when there is low pressure?

<p>If it is possible to add a downward pointing thin needle (hair, AWG-40 wire etc.) to the edge of (each) hole, do it. The droplets will smoothly glide along it to its end, where the needle circumference becomes so tiny that surface tension cannot hold the droplet anymore. Surface tension won't have a chance!</p> <p>With a very thin needle and funnel-like hydrophobic surface of the vessel, you may get rid of virtually any (microliter) amount of water. It can be hard to make it by 3D-printing, though.</p>

2020-10-20T12:15:07.433

|ultimaker-cura|diy-3d-printer|g-code|

<p>I'm using Cura for my 3D printing (an ultimaker S5 printer) and in order to understand 3D printing I'm trying to learn G-code.</p> <p>I've noticed that even when the model is full of circles, the G-code is full with the <code>G1</code> command. I haven't seen the <code>G2</code> or <code>G3</code> command at all! How could this be?</p>

14620

G2 / G3 command in Cura

<p>The <code>.stl</code> files most commonly used for printing do not have any circles in them at all!</p> <p><code>.stl</code> files describe the surface of the things they represent with lots and lots of triangles:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gws40.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="STL file of corner object showing the polygons"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gws40.png" alt="STL file of corner object showing the polygons" title="STL file of corner object showing the polygons" /></a></p> <p>That also means that your slicer doesn't really know which parts of the model are supposed to be round (where <code>G2</code> and <code>G3</code> might be applicable).</p> <p>And, another consideration, though historical: Most 3D printers were (and are) based on relatively weak 8-bit microcontrollers. It's much easier for those microcontrollers to calculate the movements needed for the print if it's just straight lines, rather than elaborate curves.</p> <p>One issue that can arise with this is when your model is of high quality, and your slicers uses all of that quality - a simple circle can then become hundreds or thousands of tiny segments, which all need to be transmitted, parsed and executed - which may lead to stuttering.</p>

2020-10-20T21:52:53.203

|diy-3d-printer|

<p>I'm trying to make a printer that will have a second extruder as backup for when the primary one clogs or runs out of filament. It is an ongoing project I'm doing to make a 3D printer as reliable as possible. How could you implement this.</p>

14626

Printer with two extruders but one as a backup

<p>You could use a &quot;filament runout sensor&quot; and combine it with a &quot;filament running sensor&quot;. If either fails the controller needs to be notified by a signal. If you configure the Configuration.h filament runout setup such that it doesn't call <code>M600</code> but instead a series of codes to park tool 0, activate tool 1, home tool 1, prime tool 1, and commence printing, you are near a solution.</p>

2020-10-21T19:45:02.617

|pla|print-material|abs|

<p>I have been printing the same model once with Verbatim PLA and once with an ABS material from Switzerland. For both I was using two brand new 1 kg spools of filament. I was printing both at the same speed, same additions, same infill percentage, solid layers, solid wall count, etc. Literally everything the same except temperature.</p> <p>Simplify3D indicated 300 g for each print, however I already realized that all of Simplify3Ds estimates for time and material are - unlike Cura - very poor. However I was still kinda surprised when I checked the two spools after printing. Originally they had the same diameter of material and same depth. After the print the ABS spool looked almost the same as before the print, in terms of diameter it shrank less than 5 mm, however the PLA roll was definitely at least 1/3 empty. The difference was also confirmed by a scale. ABS only consumed like 220 g, while PLA was using a bit over 300 g. ABS surely did not look like more than 20 %, but maybe its inner diameter is larger than the PLA spool.</p> <p>Since I can order ABS considerably cheaper than PLA I was wondering if this is a common phenomenon. Googling for that leads to a million of pages outlining the differences between ABS and PLA where 999'999 of times it says that ABS is more prone to warping than PLA and the other one is about dimensional accuracy, but I could not find anything about material usage.</p>

14638

Are there differences in filament consumption between ABS and PLA

<p>I’ve never actually printed anything other than PLA, but...</p> <p>Searching the web for filament density, I found <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this article </a>, among others, that indicate that PLA is nearly 20 % denser than ABS, on average (1.24 vs 1.04 g/cm³). This indicates that a 1 kg reel of ABS will have 20 % more volume (therefore length) than a 1 kg reel of PLA.</p> <p>This does not quite explain the difference you see as 300 g vs 220 g is 36 % but maybe your measurement is off or the particular PLA mix you’re using is slightly denser.</p>

2020-10-21T21:06:31.103

|marlin|firmware|homing|endstop|

<p>I am using an Ender 3 and I have just upgraded to the Hero Me Gen 5 fan duct adapter. This has shifted the nozzle position. I also flashed some new Marlin 2 firmware and in the Hero Me manual it says to uncomment and change <code>#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9</code> to suit this change in nozzle position.</p> <p>This has, however, not given me the right results. It did not center my prints but actually let the Y-axis grind upon going to <code>Y235</code>. Additionally, I noticed, that my printer must have been off-center from the beginning, because the X position of the nozzle has not changed due to the installation, but the printer homes to a point 5 mm inside the bed perimeters.</p> <p><strong>So, if my printers endstops dictate an original home position of 3 mm <em>inside</em> the bed area for X and 15 mm outside the bed area for Y, how do I set this up correctly in Marlin 2?</strong></p> <p>I think the relevant parts are</p> <pre><code>// The size of the print bed #define X_BED_SIZE 235 #define Y_BED_SIZE 235 // Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS 5 #define Y_MIN_POS -15 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS 250 #define Y_MAX_POS 240 #define Z_MAX_POS 230 ... // Manually set the home position. Leave these undefined for automatic settings. // For DELTA this is the top-center of the Cartesian print volume. //#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0 //#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9 //#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0 </code></pre> <p>This is my idea, I would let the manual home pos be commented out as I do not know what it does. However, I also want the software endstops to correcly work as to not let the printer destroy it <em>aaaaand</em> my BLTouch to probe the bed and not the air or my bed clips using UBL when doing 3-point probing. Would this be correct? Where do I have to look to let the printer consider my bed clips(only 10 mm on both ends of the y-axis side of the bed)?</p>

14639

How to set Home Offsets and Manual Home definitions in Marlin correctly?

<p>Normally you wouldn't use the <code>MANUAL_xyz_HOME_POS</code> at all.</p> <p>Home your machine. Use a caliper or ruler to measure the distance between the nozzle and the edges of the print bed in both the X and Y direction. If the nozzle was <em>off</em> the bed in both directions, input these measurements as <em>negative</em> <code>X_MIN_POS</code> and <code>Y_MIN_POS</code> values. If it was <em>over</em> the bed in either of those directions, you'll need to input them as <em>positive</em> positions.</p> <p>That should result in your nozzle to be exactly on the edge of the bed after a</p> <pre><code>G28 X Y G1 X0 Y0 </code></pre> <p>movement.</p>

2020-10-23T21:40:56.030

|creality-ender-3|bed-leveling|electronics|wiring|inductive-sensor|

<p>I have <a href="https://m.de.aliexpress.com/item/32719957788.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> optocoupler. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/koQuA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/koQuA.jpg" alt="optocoupler:" /></a></p> <p>and <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32809655707.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> sensor. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4p8IT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4p8IT.jpg" alt="sensor:" /></a></p> <p>I want to wire them together and use them for auto bed leveling. Note, stock Ender 3 board (Creality v1) has 2 pins for its endstop, not 3, so this: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jbKw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jbKw.jpg" alt="dosent work:" /></a> won't work</p> <p>However, I found this diagram: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP9Vr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP9Vr.jpg" alt="possibly might work" /></a></p> <p>My optocoupler is rated for 12 V so I definitely wont attach 24 V to it. However, everything else seems good. So I could only replace the 24 V to 12 V and it would work?</p>

14649

How to wire an LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor with an optocoupler to a stock Ender 3?

<p>Both diagrams are exactly the same, the difference is the +5 V that is not connected on the bottom diagram (displayed in white, labelled &quot;not used&quot;), but since your endstops do not have a +5 V pin in the socket (only ground, GND, and signal, SIG or S) you don't need to attach it. You should source the +5 V from elsewhere from your board. As the left and right side of the module are separated circuits, you need to power the board with +5 V.</p> <p>Read <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10812/">this answer</a> for applying 24 V.</p>

2020-10-25T01:06:43.827

|stepper-driver|tmc2209|

<p>While shopping for TMC2209 stepper drivers I found advertisements &quot;SD2209&quot;. Is this the same thing?</p>

14656

Is SD2209 the same as TMC2209 stepper drivers?

<p>From what I can tell, the SD2209 is not a clone of or another name for the TMC2209, but is a board with a TMC2209 on it setup to be used as a drop-in replacement for other stepper drivers. See e.g. <a href="http://www.panucatt.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=sd2209" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this SD2209 a drop-in replacement for Pololu style drivers</a>:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0c8oP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0c8oP.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2020-10-25T20:46:17.717

|water-resistance|

<p>I would like to create a case or a box which has two holes for incoming and exiting water. I want the box to be opened and closed. Therefore it is good to be something like a treasure box.</p> <p>Is there a way to design the lid of the box to prevent water from leaking around the areas where the box and the lid are meeting without using glue?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYo0p.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYo0p.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

14660

Is it possible to create a completely sealed box?

<p>I know this sounds obvious, but given the box has holes in the top – does it only need to be watertight when it's the right way up? If not, you could just do something like:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXft9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXft9.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Assuming that won't work, I think a really good seal would be hard with just something like PLA, because the printing texture alone means there will always be tiny gaps between the mating surfaces. In some cases, those grooves will actually act as capillaries (if you've ever tried to use a sharpie marker on a print, you can imagine what I mean).</p> <p>If the lid fits snugly, then just lining it with something like plumber's thread tape would probably do a good job.</p> <p>If it needs to work straight out of the printer, then I would try something like this (obviously I've exaggerated the detail):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5Fuc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5Fuc.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The idea being something like the plastic seal you see on some types of refrigerator door, which has a thin wall with a free edge that allows it to flex.</p> <p>NB in all these cases, sharp corners will cause problems – it will be easier to get a seal if you put a radius (say, 5mm) on the vertical edges of the box.</p>

2020-10-26T13:07:35.723

|part-testing|

<p>I have an SKR PRO control board with a dead (shorted, it's burning hot) main processor. I ordered a new board, it was my mistake.</p> <p>The voltage regulators work, so I ordered a replacement STM32F407 processor from STM (a free sample actually) and I'll repair the board in my free time.</p> <p>How can I test all pins of the new board, so that I can ensure the board is working when I'll sell it/when I'll use it for my next project?</p> <p>I think that programmatically turning on and off each pin would be enough, then I would use an oscilloscope or a LED to verify the result. The pins which have special functions (heater, fan, MOSFET in general) would be tested accordingly, but I still need the pulsating input.</p>

14662

How to test all pins of a STM32 board?

<p>A good starting point <em>could</em> be to use one of the two versions of the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPS1.4_TestCode.pde" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>RAMPS1.4_TestCode.pde</code></a> testcode, which is linked to by this thread on the RepRapWiki, <a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,99920" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS 1.4 test code</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Please note it will switch on and off your heated-bed and extruder hot-end too besides moving all the motors and flashing the leds. Disconnect them if you do not want any heating while testing.</p> </blockquote> <p>There is a later version, in <a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?219,99920,165777#msg-165777" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a> on the same thread, which also checks the individual stepper motor steps:</p> <pre><code>#define X_STEP_PIN 54 #define X_DIR_PIN 55 #define X_ENABLE_PIN 38 #define X_MIN_PIN 3 #define X_MAX_PIN 2 #define Y_STEP_PIN 60 #define Y_DIR_PIN 61 #define Y_ENABLE_PIN 56 #define Y_MIN_PIN 14 #define Y_MAX_PIN 15 #define Z_STEP_PIN 46 #define Z_DIR_PIN 48 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 62 #define Z_MIN_PIN 18 #define Z_MAX_PIN 19 #define E_STEP_PIN 26 #define E_DIR_PIN 28 #define E_ENABLE_PIN 24 #define Q_STEP_PIN 36 #define Q_DIR_PIN 34 #define Q_ENABLE_PIN 30 #define SDPOWER -1 #define SDSS 53 #define LED_PIN 13 #define FAN_PIN 9 #define PS_ON_PIN 12 #define KILL_PIN -1 #define HEATER_0_PIN 10 #define HEATER_1_PIN 8 #define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING #define TEMP_1_PIN 14 // ANALOG NUMBERING void setup() { pinMode(FAN_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(HEATER_0_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(HEATER_1_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(LED_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(X_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(X_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(X_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Y_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Y_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Y_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Z_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Z_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Z_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(E_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(E_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(E_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Q_STEP_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Q_DIR_PIN , OUTPUT); pinMode(Q_ENABLE_PIN , OUTPUT); digitalWrite(X_ENABLE_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Y_ENABLE_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Z_ENABLE_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(E_ENABLE_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Q_ENABLE_PIN , LOW); } void loop () { // if (millis() %1000 &lt;500) // digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH); // else // digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW); // if (millis() %1000 &lt;300) { // digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, HIGH); // digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW); // digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW); // } else if (millis() %1000 &lt;600) { // digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW); // digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, HIGH); // digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW); // } else { // digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW); // digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW); // digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, HIGH); // } if ( millis() % 60000 &lt; 30000) { digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(Y_DIR_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(Z_DIR_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(E_DIR_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(Q_DIR_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, LOW); digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, HIGH); digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, LOW); digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH); } else { digitalWrite(X_DIR_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Y_DIR_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Z_DIR_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(E_DIR_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Q_DIR_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(HEATER_0_PIN, HIGH); digitalWrite(FAN_PIN, LOW); digitalWrite(HEATER_1_PIN, HIGH); digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW); } digitalWrite(X_STEP_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Y_STEP_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(E_STEP_PIN , LOW); digitalWrite(Q_STEP_PIN , LOW); delay (200); digitalWrite(X_STEP_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(Y_STEP_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(E_STEP_PIN , HIGH); digitalWrite(Q_STEP_PIN , HIGH); delay (200); } </code></pre> <p>As your board isn't a RAMPS you will probably have to change some of the <code>#defines</code>, to correspond with your board, but that should just be a simple <em>search-and-replace</em> exercise.</p>

2020-10-27T12:38:11.140

|g-code|usb|python|

<p>I'm working on a project for my masters where I'm trying to detect print errors using object detection and I want to be able to pause the printer when a potential fault is detected. However I can't seem to figure out the correct way to send G-code to my printer from a Python script. Does anyone happen to know how this works?</p>

14678

How do you send G-code from a USB port with Python?

<p>The process is pretty straightforward, you open a serial connection and send the instructions over the serial connection. The printer reports &quot;<code>OK</code>&quot; when <strong>received</strong> (<em>not</em> when the command has been executed).</p> <p>You can use pySerial to connect to a USB port with the correct speed, then send the command you want to execute (include the newline char).</p> <p>You need to be aware that commands are <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Buffering" rel="nofollow noreferrer">buffered</a>, if the buffer is full, the printer sends &quot;OK&quot; when there is a spot free in the buffer.</p> <p>See <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/questions/59957089/how-to-send-one-gcode-command-over-usb">this question on a sister SE</a>.</p>

2020-10-27T22:38:13.310

|flashforge-creator|flashforge|

<p>I have a FlashForge Creator Pro, couple of years old. I'm looking to replace one or both of the heating blocks, as they're getting old and pretty gunked up. Instead of buying two blocks at \$30 each, I thought I could take some aluminum and make two on my CNC mill. The only thing - are there any manufacturer provided dimensions? I could probably get by measuring with calipers, but I'd prefer the exact specifications.</p>

14682

What are the dimensions of the FlashForge Creator Pro heating block?

<p>The FlashForge Creator Pro uses a <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5437/5740">MK10 hotend</a>:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mk7dL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mk7dL.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The Micro Swiss MK10 All Metal Hotend Kit for instance is reported to be a drop-in replacement for the FlashForge Creator Pro, it uses M7 threads.</p> <p>The heater block for an MK10 has a threaded hole for the thermistor (M4), but some use a machined hole for PT100/3 mm thermistor cartridges. The block measures around 20 x 20 13 mm. The images below should give you enough information to create your custom blocks. However, there appear to be 3^rd supplier after-market blocks available on on-line webshops and market places</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kY26D.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kY26D.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3x8qP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3x8qP.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSlOg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSlOg.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>The Flashforge original spare part heater blocks show that they are slightly different (the top image shows symmetrical heater blocks while the spare parts are not symmetrical), so above drawings and caliper measurements should give you enough information to reproduce the heater block.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rTVuj.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rTVuj.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <hr /> <p><em>It would be a great addition if you added your own answer once you measured your blocks and created some drawings!</em></p>

2020-10-28T14:44:58.450

|extruder|stepper|motor|extruder-driver|drive-gear|

<p><strong>Question background:</strong></p> <p>I am building an extruder / hotend combination to be used with 2.85 mm filaments.</p> <p>The extruder I chose is QR Extruder from Bondtech which comes with a stepper motor, with an integrated planetary gear system and a reduction of 5.18 to 1.</p> <p>The motor's specification states that it has a backlash of less than 1 degree.</p> <p>I have contacted the manufacturer but I could not get a more specific number.</p> <p><strong>Here is what I'd like to know (i.e., my question clarified) :</strong></p> <ul> <li>How does this &lt; 1 degree backlash translate to pushing filament through the hot end?</li> <li>Once the extruder steps are calibrated, can it cause artifacts on the prints?</li> <li>Can linear advance (Marlin) or pressure advance (Klipper/Duet) make up for this &lt; 1 degree backlash of the planetary gear system?</li> </ul>

14686

What are the effects of backlash from a geared stepper motor used to drive a filament extruder?

<p>During normal extrusion backlash has no effect.</p> <p>During retraction you can perfectly compensate by increasing retraction length slightly.</p> <p>Backlash cannot be taken into account for pressure advance, but unless it's a lot, it should not cause issues: pressure compensation is a second order effect and does not need to be tuned super accurately to produce results.</p> <p>One degree does not seem to be enough to cause problems.</p>

2020-10-31T15:18:29.957

|print-quality|prusa-i3|

<p>My prints have recently started to come out with a serious skew along the Y axis. This occurs regardless of printing parameters such as speed/acceleration. I don't know the exact cause yet, can someone help me resolve this? What could have caused this?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiodQ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiodQ.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Please don't mind the stringing/blobs, I'm currently running out of filament and I was forced to use an old PET-G spool damaged by moisture.</p>

14702

Prusa MK3S Y-skewed prints

<p>Apparently, the possible cause mentioned by @R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE turned out to be true. The frame was noticeably skewed in the Y-axis, which is why the prints were leaning in that direction.</p> <p>I replaced the <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Z-axis top parts</a> with a 3D printed modified version of them (what came with the printer is orange, what I printed is yellow.) The modified version is slightly longer so as to move the steel rods (ones that hold the X-axis) slightly towards the front of the printer (in the opposite direction to the skew)</p> <p>This turned out to work perfectly, the skew is still slightly present, but it has been substantially mitigated and I can fix it completely by adjusting the length of the printed parts.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Aii.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/r6Aii.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7Fev.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7Fev.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2020-11-01T04:34:50.413

|creality-ender-3|extruder|speed|bowden|

<p>I am attempting to make my Ender 3 Pro print significantly faster than it is intended it I fear.</p> <p>I hear a clicking noise coming from the extruder above 130 mm/s in Cura when it is going in long straight lines (I think my acceleration settings prevent it on shorter lines). I have seen this before when the bed is too close to the nozzle but I have auto bed leveling now and it is happening on all layers.</p> <p>I have a standard extruder + Bowden tube setup. What can I do to make things go faster? I am less concerned about the quality of the print and more concerned about the speed.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sof1U.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Front View"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/sof1U.jpg" alt="Front View" title="Front View" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zta0M.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Top View"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/zta0M.jpg" alt="Top View" title="Top View" /></a></p>

14703

Ender 3 Extruder Speed / Upgrade

<p>You're likely hitting the thermal limit of your hot end.</p> <p>The standard Creality hotend used in your printers maxes out at around 8-12 mm³/s. To calculate your current volumetric speed, you can simply calculate</p> <p><code>speed * layer height * extrusion width</code></p> <p>With an 0.45 mm extrusion width and 0.2 mm layer heights, printing at 130 mm/s would put you at around 11,7 mm³/s - very high for the standard hot end.</p> <p>Increasing temperatures as suggested in the other answer will help, but might reduce print quality on other layers / intricate structures.</p> <p>The &quot;proper&quot; solution would be a Volcano or SuperVolcano hot end, or any of the other &quot;high flow&quot; alternatives.</p>