More Billy - Old West - Clothing - Mens

## Undergarments

In this era men's undergarments normally came in two pieces and were just as modest as the ladies under garments. So let's go into more detail of what a gentleman would be wearing. The two garments were often called Long Johns, a term which has mistakenly come to refer to the all in one underwear, the Union Suit.

### Under-vest

An under-vest or under-shirt was to a man what a chemise was to a woman, It was worn to provide extra warmth and protect the outer garments from sweat and dirt as well as offering some protection to the skin from rough outer clothing. It was made from cotton or wool and could be either short sleeved or long sleeved, depending upon the weather. The under vest was normally pulled on over the head and had a few buttons at the top. Other men still wore the cumbersome nightgown under their clothing, a garment that reached the knees and was worn at as a night shirt when sleeping. Unfortunately not many of these items of clothing have survived into modern day.

Some men, especially laborers, didn't bother with any underwear of this kind unless it was bitterly cold.

### Drawers

Nearly all men wore drawers, it was the essential part of any man's clothing. The drawers were ankle length at this time and could be made of cotton, wool or silk stockinett. The front had a nine inch opening and was covered by a flap that buttoned to protect modesty. A drawstring was often used to keep them secured although braces often kept both drawers and trousers up.

### The Union Suit

This all in one underwear had been very popular up until the point that the two piece undergarments became available. The Union Suit originated as women's underwear in the late 1860s but soon became more popular among men. It was traditionally made of flannel and was red in color but over the years white became more common. Although Long John's gained more sales the Union Suit was still popular with many rural people and laborers right up until the early 1900s.

### Socks

Socks or stockings as they were more commonly referred to were widely worn to keep the feet warm and boots from rubbing the feet. They were made of of wool or cotton and looked very much like the socks we wear today although there was no elastic to keep them in place, boots did this instead. In the 1890s sock-suspenders were invented to hold up socks.

## Gentlemen

The gentleman of the Old West were people who dressed well and were often referred to as the cowboys and laborers of the day as 'dandys'. A dandy was someone who was thought to pay a lot of attention to their appearance. When the laborers dressed up they often said they were being a dandy.

Daily dress for the everyday gentleman who was not a cowboy, miner or did any kind of laborious work would have looked highly formal by today's standards. Every gentleman was expected to wear a coat, vest and hat. To be seen outside without a hat was quite improper even for the lowly cowpokes. Gentleman never walked around in just their shirt sleeves this would translate today as a man walking around in his underpants!

### Shirt

Shirts were quite similar in styles. Dress shirts were worn by many people including outlaws and came in all patterns and colors, from white to dark blues and blacks. The popular style during this era was the pull over shirt which had four of five button upon the front. A bid would sometimes be attached with buttons so that it could be turned over and hide any unsightly stains. The collar of shirts were often removable and collars were widely sold on their own, this was because clothes washing didn't happen too often and so to appear more presentable a man could change his collar for a fresh, crisp one.

### Trousers

The most noticeable detail about trousers worn at this period is how much higher the waist is to modern standards, all styles came as high as the navel. Popular patterns were stripes and checks and were the height of fashion. The cut of the leg as straight with no flare and the length often depended upon the exact year. Belts were rarely worn as there was no need, braces or suspenders kept them in place and prevented trousers falling down. Braces were either made from leather or canvas and were normally dark in color.

### Waistcoat

Waistcoats were considered the height of fashion and any man could make a bold statement depending upon the style and color he chose to wear. Waistcoats could be made of virtually any material and came in all colors and styles. Chinese silk at this point was quite cheap and many men wore waistcoats of startlingly beauty because of this.

### Coats

The frock coat was the most popular style as this time, the style of this garment was a full 'skirt' to the front and back that reached just above the knees. It could be used for both day wear and evening wear and most men opted for this style because of that reason. In the 1870s the 'Sack Suit' came into fashion also and was cut as it's name suggests with a box-like shape that hung loosely from the wearer. In the 1880s the style became more tailored to the body.

### Accessories

Most gentlemen wore a cravat at the neck. The style varied greatly and could be anything from a thin strip of material to something frilly and highly patterned. A pocket watch was essential, not only for telling the time but as a fashion accessory that showed off your wealth. Most men wore their watch in their front pocket of their waistcoat, the chain dangling out. Walking sticks and canes were also popular and gloves were often worn on special occasions. Boots were black or brown and made of leather and had a square toe.

## Cowboys

In the late 1800s clothing was widely available to buy from general stores. If you were a laborer such as a cowboy or didn't earn much money these ready to wear garments were gladly received. Before these items of mass made clothing went on sale most people bought second hand clothing, which could range from fancy suits to worn out jackets.

The staple clothing was not worn for fashion but for necessity to do their hard, all weather job.

### Shirt

The shirt was a lot alike in style to the everyday dress shirt worn but towns folk. It was often checked, dull in color and made of heavy cotton or wool. These materials were chosen because they were seen as good for all weathers. The shirt was a pullover and would have three or four buttons up the front.The long sleeves helped keep out the wind and cold as well as providing some protection from the blazing hot sun.

### Vest

The Vest or Waistcoat was worn over the shirt and was not in any way like the one worn in the towns, where fashion and color were flashed through such garments. Cowboy's vests were made of wool or leather and it's job was to hold in body heat.

### Trousers

Trousers were made of heavy wool as they had to be strong and durable to last many days in the saddle. California trousers were the most popular, they had tight waists and loose legs that came in a range of colors from buckskin to grey. Denim had also become popular and many wore them.

### Chaps

Chaps or Chapareras were study coverings worn to protect the legs and trousers from sharp thorns and horse bites, rope burn and other things they may encounter on the trail. Made from animal skin, usually leather, chaps had no seat and were not joined at the crotch.

### Boots

Cowboys spent a lot on their choice of boots, they had to last for a long time and be comfortable once they had been worn in. The cowboy boot we know today was created in the 1870s, the toe was pointed so that it could slip in and out of stirrups and the boot itself was meant to slip from the foot with a good pull in case a foot became entangled in a stirrup, this meant that the Cowboy could avoid being dragged along by his horse. Apart from the distinctive Cowboy boot their were many different styles of hard wearing boot. Cowboy's who roped cattle preferred high, thin bottomed heels that would dig into the ground and provide a kind of anchor during their work. Boots were always high topped, up to seventeen inches, this was to keep out grit, stones, sand and protect from snakebites.

### Spurs

Spurs or 'gut hooks' came in all kinds of styles and were made from metal and leather straps. They fitted and fastened over the boot with the main part, the rowels, worn at the heel. The rowels could be seen in many designs but the most common was a star shape. Riders filed down the sharp points and when riding would dig their heels into the horse's sides. The dull points would be able to get through the coarse horse hair to the skin beneath, delivering a shock to the animal. Some Cowboys added jingle bobs to their spurs which created a jingling sound as they walked.

### Coats

In cold or rainy weather a coat or duster would be worn. These dusters were long, loose coats and were normally made of oilskin or leather, which made them waterproof and kept out most of the wind.

### Accessories

The bandanna, commonly referred to as 'wild rags' or just 'wipes' were the only thing of bright color a cowboy wore, normally blue or red. This article of clothing was tried around the neck and had many uses. It could be brought up over the mouth and nose to prevent breathing in dust, or to protect his face from cold. It was also used to tie hats securely to the head during high winds, as a towel and often a bandage. Tough leather gloves were worn to protect the hands from brush, rope burns and other sharp objects.

## Hats

All men wore hats in this period and the standard Cowboy has become the iconic symbol of the Old West. The first cowboy hat that we recognize today was created in 1865 by a John B. Stetson. It was made to protect from the sun, rain and also be useful as a tool to the hard working Cowboy. It could be used to gather water, feed their horses, serve as a pillow or shade as they slept, act as a whip for his horse or fan fires. Along with this style there were many other styles that were still popular including the Derby and formal top hats. Another style that was popular with Cowboys was the Sugar-loaf Sombrero, a hat that was worn by Billy the Kid himself, his other favorite was the Slouch Hat.

## Hairstyles and Facial Hair

Around this time most men had some kind of facial hair, it was seen as fashionable. Facial hair could range from large side burns, bushy mustaches to long beards, special wax was used to keep the desired effect. The emphasis of this era was on facial hair rather than actual hair styles. Men's hair styles were conservative and perhaps parted in the middle on special occasions. Oils and greases were often used to keep a style in place.

Hair length was normally short or only as long as to each the nape of the neck. Cowboys were often submitted to certain styles of hair cuts by their bosses, who wanted them to look presentable.