More Billy - Old West - Clothing - Women

## Underclothing

Under garments were thought of as a taboo subject and spoken of little, if a lady had to allure to them they were referred to as 'unmentionables.' All women wore corsets, it was the equivalent to a bra for women these days and stockings were also an essential part of any lady's wardrobe. There was no underwear in the way we know today, underwear was a fairly new thing back in the late Victorian period. Pantaloons, drawers, pantlets or bloomers (large baggy knickers that reached the knee or ankle) were worn and all had a wide split at the crotch. Petticoats, camisoles or corset covers were then added and this completed every lady's essential wear even in the 'Wild West.'

So let's have a look at each item, it seems an awful lot by today's standards but to any woman this would have been normal, everyday wear.

### Stockings

Silk or cotton stockings that reached up to the knee and were held in place by garters. Black was usually the color worn during the day and white or colored for evening wear, they could be patterned with stripes or dots.

### Drawers

Drawers, Pantaloons, Bloomers or Pantlets were worn over the stockings. In winter some ladies liked to wear woolen drawers that reached their ankles but most were cotton and cream or white in color. Drawers had a large flap or slit that overlapped at the front, hiding modesty but making it easier for the lady when she needed to use the bathroom. Most had a drawstring tie at the waist that could be adjusted but some had buttons or hook and eye fastenings.

### Chemise

The chemise was a either a short sleeved or long sleeved (although in the late 1870's and early 1880's the chemise was commonly sleeveless) shapeless garment made of linen. Normally it would reach the knees but sometimes it was shorter. It was worn next to the skin and soaked up any oils or sweat and was tough and long wearing so it could be washed and scrubbed when needed.

### Corset

The corset was then added over the chemise. Made of lightweight material and stiffened with either whalebone or steel the corset was designed to give an hour glass figure that many woman desired in the 1870s-1880s. It also provided support to the bustline and cinched in the waist. Corsets normally fastened at the front with metal fastenings but the garment could be tightened at the back via ties. The most desirable waist at this time was a tiny one and some ladies pulled the ties as tightly as they could to achieve the look but most woman only tightened between '2 and 5'. The result of extreme 'tightlacing' was discomfort, health problems and sometimes even death, the organs would actually be moved over time. The corset could be bought in array of colors and materials. The working class would sometimes buy stiff cotton corsets with no boning so they could work with freedom of movement.

    Women were taught how to put on their own corsets unless they were rich, in which case they had a maid to do the chore for them. Ladies would fasten the front and reach round to the ties at the back and pull until they got the desired effect. If they wanted it tightening more for a party or for an admirer than a friend or husband would aid with the task.

### Corset Cover

The corset cover or camisole was worn over the corset. Like the Chemise, this garment was used to prevent oils and sweat staining the dress or bodice. It was front opening and fastened with buttons and was often richly decorated with lace or ribbons. Which kind of corset cover was worn depended upon which dress the lady would be wearing.

### Petticoats

The petticoat was an underskirt that was sometimes stiffened to give a skirt fullness. It was made of white or colored (red was popular) light weight cotton and tied at the waist with a drawstring, buttons or hook and eye fastening. Two petticoats was the least amount any lady wore but if their skirt or dress called for more then they could wear up to five. Petticoats were always frilly and feminine.

### The Bustle

The bustle was either a type of steel framework or 'cage' or a padded cushion that was attached at the waist and gave a fullness to the back of a skirt of gown. The cage was used to achieve a rather large result while the padded bustle was for a more minimal look. Some gowns had a padded bustle already sewed in to save the lady time. The bustle was worn over the petticoats.

## Outer Clothing

Even ladies living in the 'wild west' liked to keep up with the fashions going on back east. Once settled into a town the lady may have had everyday clothes along with fancy visiting dresses, evening dresses and afternoon dresses. But unless you were very poor your clothing would have looked fancy and luxurious by today's standards.

So let's have a look at what any self respecting lady would have been wearing on the dusty streets of the old west.

### The Gown or Bodice and Skirt

Every respectable lady wore a bodice or dress with a high neck and long sleeves during the day. When evening came lower necklines and off the shoulder sleeves were permittable. In the late 1870's and early 1880's bustles came into fashion so many dresses had this feature. Women who could not afford to have a large wardrobe sometimes had a dress that could be changed from day to evening wear to save on costs or would buy second hand clothing. There were many different kinds of styles, below you will see the most popular.

### Accessories

A Victorian lady never went outside without her gloves, shawl and bonnet. Sometimes bonnets and gloves were even worn inside the home. Tough leather, suede or velvet boots that laced or buttoned up were the staple everday shoe wear and for balls or special occasions soft, thin soled kid-slippers would be worn. Hardly any of these shoes have survived as they were so thin that by the end of an evening dancing the soles would be worn through. A parsol was often taken outside as protection against the harsh sun. Handbags were small and often just a drawstring purse. Inside the bag perfume, handkerchiefs, a fan and a small amount of money was carried.

## Hairstyles and Cosmetics

Make-up was never used by ladies of good standing. Making the face up with cosmetics was seen as only something women of the night and actresses did. The popular look for this period was a very pale skin tone. Women would drink vinegar and avoid sunlight to gain this sickly look that was meant to make men compare them to delicate flowers. Some ladies even painted blue veins upon their chest and cheeks to give them a translucent quality and pinched their cheeks to achieve a rosy blush.

The crowning glory and main feature of beauty for any woman was her hair. There was no shampoo to wash your hair as there is today. If a lady wished to clean her locks she would use sweet smelling oils, cow fat and perfume or eggs and lemons. The result was clean hair but not soft hair. The hair was washed no more than once or twice a month. Hair was never cut unless it had to be due to illness and many ladies used false hair or hair pieces to create elaborate styles and the illusion of fullness. Hot irons were used to make the hair curl.

Young girls under the age of eighteen could wear their hair down or in braids but once a woman was mature she was expected to wear her hair up in public at all times. Only prostitutes and actresses still wore their hair long after this point.

## Soiled Doves

Prostitutes of the Old West were called 'Soiled Doves' or just 'Doves'. They had many other nicknames including: prairie doves, ladies of ill fame, fallen women, fancy ladies, women of the night, frail sisters, nymphs du prairie, ladies of easy virtue, scarlet ladies, sportin' women and many more.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

During the early settlement of the West, ladies of questionable virtue flocked to mining camps and newly made towns knowing that the number of men far outweighed the number of woman. All the labor weary men wanted was female company and they were willing to pay a pretty price for the privilege. At this time it was not unknown for a Dove to marry a customer she had grown attached to and from that time on she lived a moral life as a good wife. In the late 1870s and early 1880s, prostitution was booming and no town was without its brothel or 'boarding house' as the more pious townsfolk liked to call them. Many Doves worked inside saloons giving company to the drinkers and gamblers and taking them upstairs or to a back room when they wanted a more intimate good time. Some worked out of buildings which had no other purpose than to ply the girls wares. Others worked on the streets or in Hog Towns. A Hog Town was a ranch on a trail where many unappealing or old Doves found themselves the end of their careers. Basically the surroundings these women found themselves in could be anything from a mansion with crystal chandeliers to a dirty old shack or tent with only a crib as a bed.

The price a man would pay for the company of one of these ladies depended very much on age, location, looks and ethnic background. Doves came in all colors, sizes and beauty. The most sought after hair color for Doves at this time was red, this was because many believed the color signified fiery passion, so a redhead would be the most expensive in any given place.

Doves rarely if ever used their real names and if they did they or their punters gave them fun and fanciful nicknames such as: Wicked Alice, Big Nose Kate, Sweet Annie, Little Gold Dollar, Cotton Tail and Squirrel Tooth Alice. These nicknames were to prevent shame coming to the women's families if their real identity wasn't known then their relatives were saved from embarrassment.

Doves became the favorite women of cowboys and outlaws alike and they protected the men they loved with a passion. Many of these ladies of ill fame were also known for their kind hearts and willingness to help those sick or in need.

Doves usually wore provocative outfits of fancy undergarments in the higher class establishments or just their own underwear to entice customers off the street and into their beds. They had a tendency to wear their hair long, which was risque at the time and wore make up. The make up consisted of powder, lip and cheek stain in a rosy blush color, eyeliner which was gained from candle soot and mascara which was normally made from ashes was painstakingly applied with a pin. All cosmetics were made my the ladies themselves as you could not buy make-up at this time.

The life of a Dove was of course not always a happy one. The risks of being around rough men who liked to drink came with a price many came to pay. Some took their own lives in despair and others were murdered. Women came into this profession usually by hard means, their family turned them out or they lost the bread winner of their family and had no means to support themselves. Perhaps their husbands had died or deserted them to a fate without protection and means. Many women who became prostitutes were young, illiterate and poor and during this time in the Old West women without good standing had few options open to them.

Apart from the risk of suicide and murder the profession also carried other hazards. Pregnancy was a large risk and many women took concoctions and pills to prevent or help get rid of any unwanted children. The biggest form of this was abortion and many were carried out by other Doves or elder women of the town with some knowledge, some with life threatening results as a botched abortion meant your life! There was also the problem of sexual transmitted diseases such as syphilis and contracting tuberculosis from clients.

Saloon Girls or Herdy Gurdy Girls are often mistaken as prostitutes. These ladies never sold their favors to men unless the saloon itself was very shady. The job of a Saloon Girl was to entertain the men drinking in the bar. They would perform, sing, dance with the customers or just join in card games or conversations, basically to their job was to keep the men in the bars and paying for drink. The dress worn by these women consisted of brightly colored, ruffled skirts that were scandalously short at this time, reaching only to mid-calf or knee length. Their shoulders and arms were bare and a low cut bodice finished the look. Garters often concealed a small gun or knife so that they had protection if any of the cowboys became too rowdy.