Candle Making

## Materials

### Wax

The most common types of wax used in candle making are beeswax, paraffin wax, and dip-and-carve wax.

Beeswax is an all natural wax with a sweet aroma. It is preferred because it adds softness and beauty to candles and it also increases burning time. It is also more expensive. Beeswax comes in one-pound cakes or sheets. The sheets are sometimes used for making rolled candles. The rectangular sheets measure about 8 x 16 inches and are available in natural taupe, bleached white, and various dyed colours. Beeswax can be used alone or combined with other waxes. Adding beeswax to other commonly used waxes will both soften colours and enhance burning time.

When using beeswax remember that it is naturally sticky. When making molded candles you will want to treat the mold with a releasing agent (such as silicone spray) to make it easier to remove the candle. Also, keeping the temperature above 160° F when you pour the candle will help to keep it from sticking as much.

When you are using 100% beeswax to make candles there is no need to add opaque crystals (beeswax is naturally opaque) or stearin to your candles. These two ingredients are listed below.

Paraffin wax is less expensive and more widely available than other types of wax. It is the primary ingredient in most molded candles. Because it is colourless and odourless it is also used more when adding dyes and fragrances. It is also harder than beeswax and produces a candle with a sheen. When combining beeswax and paraffin wax use a ratio of one part beeswax to ten parts paraffin wax. You should not have any problems with sticking when using this small amount of bee wax.

Paraffin comes in ten or twelve-pound blocks or in granular form. You can also buy it with ten percent stearin already added. You can also find different types of paraffin wax, classified by the temperature at which it melts and the pliability of the wax at room temperature. For most candle making projects it is best to get paraffin wax that melts at 135° F to 140° F but you will still need to melt the wax to 160° F or more for most recipes. The exact temperature depends on the candle making method you are using, the type of mold and the effect that you want to achieve.

Dip-and-carve wax is a little softer than paraffin wax. This quality keeps it from cracking when it is carved. It is also better for dipped candles. The softer wax helps the layers adhere to each other better.

### Wick

The wick is a conduct that supplies the flame with a steady stream of wax. The best wicks to use are made with tightly woven cotton fibers. Wicks come in rolls or pre-cut lengths. Although they are made of cotton most will be treated with substances that allow the wick to burn along with the wax.

There are three types of wicks: flat braid for dipped candles, square braid for molded and rolled candles, and wire-core for long-burning candles such as container candles. Be sure to choose the right wick for the candle you are making. The width of the candle determines the thickness of the wick. If your wick is too thin for the candle it will not supply enough wax to the flame and your candle will not stay lit. If the wick is too thick it will flood the flame with melted wax. The package that the wick comes in will suggest the best candle-diameter. If your not sure here are some guidelines:

Candles 3/4 inch in diameter or less use 4/0

Candles 3/4 – 2 inches use 2/0

Candles 2 – 3 inches use a #1

Candles 3 – 4 inches use a #2

Candles over 4 inches use a #3

### Wick holders

These are small squares of metal with a hole in the middle. They are used to anchor the wick to the bottom of container candles. Insert the wick into the hole and pinch the holder together to hold the wick in place.

## Equipment

### Double Boiler

Using a double boiler will help to keep your wax from reaching too high of temperatures. After use you can clean the top of the double boiler by wiping it with a dry dish towel before the wax residue hardens.

### Cookie Sheet

A cookie sheet or baking pan can be a very useful piece of candle making equipment. You will need it for laying out primed wicks, salvaging unused wax, and creating homemade wax sheets. You will want one or more with high sides – about 3/4 of an inch – so it will hold wax.

### Dipping Can

A dipping can is used to hold the hot wax when you dip or over dip candles. You can buy a dipping can at a craft shop or you can find a tall narrow pot to use. Be sure that it is at least 2 inches taller than the candle you want to make. Set the can in a pan of boiling water to keep the wax at a consistent temperature.

### Thermometer

A thermometer is a very important tool in candle making. You need to reach and maintain the right temperature to make beautiful candles. You can use a candy or cooking thermometer. Make sure it registers between 100° F and 225° F.

### Scale

You will need a scale for weighing wax and other materials. You can use a kitchen scale found at department stores or a postal scale available at office supply stores.

### Molds

You can find a wide variety of candle molds at most craft stores. You can also use your creativity and look for other items that can be used as molds or containers. Tin cans, jello molds, cake pans, sea shells, etc.

### Wicking Needles

These are heavy duty steel needles that come in four to ten inch lengths. They are used at various stages of candle making. They are used to wick an already molded candle. They can be used as tie rods to hold the wick in place when making molded candles.

### Misc. Items

• Stirrer – A wooden spoon or chopstick to mix in dye or scents and to stir the wax.

• Cutting tools – A sharp craft knife to cut beeswax sheets and trim wicks.

• Pouring Pot – A pot for pouring melted wax into molds.

• Heat source – A heat source is needed for melting the wax. A stove, camp stove or hot plate will work fine.

• Potholders, waxed paper, silicone spray and mold seal are also good to have on hand.

## Making Molded Candles

Molded candles can be made in all sorts of shapes and sizes. There is the basic molded candle removed from the mold. You can make a container candle where the candle is left in the mold and the mold becomes part of the candle. A pretty tin can, a sea shell, a hollowed-out tree branch, an eggshell or a glass dish are just a few of the containers you can use. See the note below these instructions to make a container candle. This recipe makes one 7 x 2 inch pillar.

You will need:

• A 9 inch length of #1 wick. If you did not buy a preprimed wick then you need to prime it before you start. You can do this by dipping the length of wick into melted paraffin wax for about 20 seconds. Lay it straight on a waxed paper-lined cookie sheet to dry.
• 1/2 pound of beeswax or 1/2 pound of paraffin. If you use paraffin instead of beeswax you will also need 0.8 ounces of stearin. If you plan to scent or colour the candle use the paraffin and secure it with plenty of mold seal. Seal up any cracks in the mold with mold seal.

In the top of a double boiler over medium heat, melt the beeswax and bring it to a temperature of 160° F. If you are using paraffin wax add the stearin first and bring to a temperature of 190° F. Remember that different mold materials call for different wax temperatures. If a different temperature is called for on the mold you are using go by that temperature.

When the wax has become heated to the correct temperature, transfer it to a pouring pot. Be sure to have your mold at room temperature or warmer before pouring the wax into the mold. If the mold is cool it will cause the wax to harden unevenly. To pour the wax hold the mold at an angle (this helps to prevent the formation of air bubbles) and as it fills gradually tip the mold back up. Fill to about a 1/2 inch from the top of the mold. Gently stir the wax in the mold with a narrow stick or wicking needle, scraping the sides of the mold. This will help to release any trapped air bubbles and ensures that the wax hardens more uniformly. Cool the candle for about an hour.

While the wax is cooling it may shrink causing a slight indent to form around the wick. To fix this take a wicking needle and make several pricks in the indent. Heat the wax to the temperature you used previously and refill the indent. This is called “topping off” Continue to let the candle cool for another 30 minutes to an hour. If needed top off the candle again until you achieve a level surface.

After the candle has cooled for 6 to 8 hours and has begun to pull away from the sides of the mold you can unmold it. Place the candle in the refrigerator for about 20 minutes to shrink the wax. Remove the mold seal from the bottom of the mold, then using the tie rod pull the candle out of the mold. Remove the tie rod and turn the candle over. Cut the wick off just below the surface of the bottom of the candle. To level the bottom of the candle, heat a pan lined with foil until it is very hot. Place the candle on the hot foil and rotate for a few seconds until the base is even. Finally trim the wick to 1/4 inch and you are ready to light it.

NOTE: If you are making a container candle use a wire core wick and wick holder. Anchor it to the bottom of the container by pouring in enough wax to fill the first 1/2 inch of the container. When the wax has cooled wrap the end of the wick around a tie rod and rest the rod on the top of the container. Take up any slack in the wick and centre it. Fill with wax and top off as directed above.

## Making Dipped Candles

This recipe makes six 10 x 3/4 inch tapers.

You will need:

• 4 pounds of beeswax.

• Three 24-inch lengths of flat-braided 2/0 wick

• A drying rack. You can make a drying rack by hammering pairs of nails into a board or by suspending a dowel or slat between two chairs.

Place a 12-inch dipping can in the bottom of a double boiler over medium heat. Heat the wax to 160° F. To start dipping your candle pairs drape a wick over 3 fingers so the sides hang separately and evenly. Dip the lower 10 1/2 inches of wick into the wax and hold for 10 seconds. Remove the wick and hang it on a drying rack to dry. This primes the wick and adds the first layer to the candle. Dip the other two lengths of wick the same as the first. Be sure to check the temperature of the wax often to maintain a constant temperature of 160° F. Start with the first pair again and dip only the lower 10 inches of wick to create a 10 inch candle. Repeat again with the other two pairs hanging the pairs on the drying rack each time.

The optimum drying time between dips depends on your work room temperature. The cooler the room, the shorter the drying time. For the best results dip the candles while the previous layer is still tacky. Continue dipping the candles until they measure 3/4 of and inch in diameter (about 30 dips) then dip once more.

To give the candle a smooth, clean finish, bring the wax temperature up to 180° F. Dip each pair for 3 seconds. Allow the candles to cool for 4 minutes. Hold the candle with a sheet of waxed paper to keep from leaving imprints. Trim the base of the finished candles with a sharp knife. Return the candles to the drying rack and allow to cool for several hours or over night. Trim the wicks to 1/4 inch and the candles are ready to light.