Glen Clova

The boulders at Glen Clova have been climbed on sporadically over the years, but no comprehensive guides have been produced, other than outlines and a few problems described in the Stone Country Guides. Due to constant demand, the following is an outline of known development that has taken place over the last few years, which will hopefully encourage further development, as well as to get previous activists (particularly the Dundonians) to record their handiwork.

The original list of known problems described were originally documented and names suggested by Chris Fryer with additions from Rowena Beaton, Stuart Stronach, Andy Inglis, Matthew Berstein & Amanda Lyons, as well as some harder additions by John Watson and Co, Dominic Kehoe (?) and Tim Rankin. Miles Perkin, Mike Lauder, Robert Hepburn and their associates have also made some excellent additions, as well as other parties under assorted aliases and nom de grimpe.

The originally descriptions are all from memory and grades approximated, so don't shoot the messenger if any changes need to be made.

The usual disclaimers apply: climbing is silly, bouldering is even sillier, etc.

## Access

Follow the road west from the Glen Clova hotel, a fine establishment with room and bunkhouse accomodation, plus the addition of some recent lodges. There is a walkers bar round the back with a fine selection of ales and meals. the 4 parking places best used for accessing the bouldering are;

**The Hotel Car Park**

For accessing the bouldering at Boustie Ley - Corrie Bonhard. Park at the far side of the car park and access via the signposted path to Loch Brandy or from the Hollow

**The Hollow**

Just after the chicanes by the white house is a small parking area with a concrete bin, and the obvious hollow full of boulders above. There is sufficient space here for 2 cars. If this is full, there is another similar parking spot further east.

**Peel Boulder Area**

Just past the John Peel Boulder and the crags is verge parking on the south side of the road for 3 or so cars.

**The Quarry**

At the end of the straight on the right is an obvious large quarry. There is ample parking here for a dozen or more cars, and an easy walk for even the most emaciated or lazy-ass climber.

It is reasonably easy to walk between these areas either directly or via the road, so please do not park on the verge or in overtaking spots, as this will not endear you to other road users.

## Aspect/Conditions

The majority of the boulders are on a south facing hillside, getting the most of the sun and, once clear of lichen, dry fairly quickly after rain, although some north faces can stay damp in the winter, and some of the lower boulders do not see much sun at all so retain a damp top. Problems face all directions so the maximum shade / sun can be exploited as preferred. In spite of mutterings to the contrary, the rock is generally solid, apart from the occasional obviously loose flake on some problems, and some fragile brittle holds. These should, however, clean up with traffic. The friction is excellent but the rock can be sharp in places. On newer problems there is some stubborn lichen and vegetation; this does, however, clean up well with a stiff brush. Vast potential exists throughout the grades, so please make the effort to get actually contribute to development and get some new stuff done, rather than just ticking existing problems, or having a whine that problems are "dirty" or "could do with a clean" then doing bugger all to actually get them clean. Using a brush is not rocket science.

## Problems

### **Boustie Ley**

The bouldering at Boustie Ley has been developed by a Dundee Team. A selection of great problems have been done, and a lot more still to do details here;

☀http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=11528

### **The Hollow**

The problems on The Sentinel, Sheep Pen, Parallel lines and "Unclimbed Wall" and "Unclimbed Slab" are accessed from here

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=73

### **Red Craigs Bouldering**

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=73

The bouldering at the Peel Boulder, Hidden Rich's Wall, Hole of Weems, Far Left and Far Right, Red Roof and Hidden Gem are all covered here.

#### **Peel Boulder**

Possibly the best boulder in the glen, and seemingly the most popular.

The west face has several variants on it

**Peel Session (LH & RH) 6b**

Seems like some confusion has arisen about this problem since the first ascent. Peel Session climbs straight up the middle of the face, *without* using the arete. 2 different variants seem to have developed on the same problem;

Right Hand
From sloper to crimp rail, move right to black flake and span back left to good finishing holds.

Left Hand (looks like the original way)
From sloper to crimp rail, match this, span left to black crimp and move back right to good finishing holds.

Peel Session SS 6b+/6c

Same prob from sitter

Peeling Right 5+

This is what a few people seem to think is Peel Session, but it's not. Starts from the PS holds, but from the good finger hold pull out right and rock onto the arête, or climb up it. Can also be combined with the SS at 6b (maybe?)

A hard eliminate has been done by Max Milne on the left side of this wall