Bolts, bolts, and more bolts

-ratchet-

So you need a bolt do you? Not sure what size you say? What material you ask? What pitch?

Read on:

## What to do when you need a bolt for your bike

So you need a bolt for your bike you say? You have one of two options:

1. Go to a dealership (in person, or online), and order the Kawi part
2. Find out what type of bolt you need, and buy it somewhere else.

How do I find out what type of bolt is missing from my bike??
If you go to a microfiche (RonAyers, etc), you will see the bolt listed like “Bolt, 5X12”

"5X12" would indicate that it was a 5mm bolt (M5), 12mm long.
The one thing you have to be sure of is that you have the right pitch (use the table below).
Your bike was made in Japan, and therefore has bolts that use the JIS pitch. Find replacements that also have that pitch.

 5mm
 6mm
 8mm
 10mm
 12mm
 14mm
 16mm

Metric bolts are often listed like this:
M5 x 0.8 (there may be additional details after this like "6g" - for your purposes you can ignore these) the "M" refers to the thread profile, the "5" refers to the bolt size (nominal diameter of 5mm), and the "0.8" refers to the pitch (0.8mm). The "6g" after is a tolerancing spec. If you have the right sized bolt, but it won't thread in.... you likely have the wrong pitch. If you continue trying to force the bolt in... you'll be sorry (trust me).

Also, you should know that bolts are sized by the thread diameter, not by the head size (the size of socket you need to use). You wouldn't call a '3/8" bolt' a '9/16" bolt' just because it has a 9/16" head on it.

While bolt heads are fairly standard: Japan (where the bikes are made) uses a different standard than North America... you can check them for clearance issues if you're worried about getting your socket into a tight space. You may need to get Button-head, or socket-head if you need the added tool clearance.

 5mm
 6mm
 8mm
 10mm
 12mm
 14mm
 16mm

## Common Bolt Materials

Bolts can be made from many different materials, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Bolt materials are chosen specifically so their mechanical properties suit the job that they are intended, so it is generally a good rule of thumb to stick with what was there in the first place. You wouldn’t go using a plastic bolt to hold on your brake calipers, or run out and buy invar bolts to hold your fairing on.

**Brass:** These fasteners have excellent corrosion resistance, and good electrical conductivity. They are generally regarded as being relatively soft, weak, heavy, and expensive. Thus, they are rarely used in structural applications (with the exception of marine use); you will likely find brass fasteners holding your bike’s wires to the battery terminals.

**Aluminum:** Lets not go there.

**Stainless steel:** Although some grades of stainless steel can be slightly magnetic, they are generally non-magnetic. The most common type of stainless steel used in fasteners is “18-8” (similar to 304). Stainless steel fasteners have excellent corrosion resistance, but are often not as strong as their steel counterparts (see strength chart); for this reason, you won’t find many stainless steel fasteners in strength-critical areas on the motorcycle.

**Steel:** These fasteners are by far the most commonly used. They generally offer high strength, and are relatively inexpensive. They come in many different “grades”.

## Coatings and platings

OK, so you've decided to use a steel bolt; now, what coating will you use (decisions, decisions). The short answer is: whatever is available, but you can read-on if you want more info.

The most commonly found coatings on steel bolts are:

**Zinc (electro-plated)** – these are most likely the standard fasteners that you’ll find in your local hardware store (shiny silver or yellow color). They offer some corrosion resistance. The zinc layer is thin, and can become easily scratch (which will cause premature rusting), so use a little care not to abuse your bolts while installing them.

**Hot-Dipped galvanized** – Frequently used in outdoor applications, the fasteners have a thick zinc coating (often have a dull grey appearance). These fasteners have better corrosion resistance than their electro-plated counterparts. Due to the thick galvanizing layer used, these bolts are slightly larger than their un-galvanized counterparts, and will not fit with the common nuts or threaded bosses found on the motorcycle. In other words: don't use them on your bike.

**Black Oxide** - If you see a bolt that's black and doesn't look like it was painted, then it's likely black oxide. This finish is expecially common on hardened fasteners (like socket head cap screws). Technically, this isn't a coating; instead, the outermost layer of the bolt has been converted from normal steel to black oxide This means that it will not chip, peel, or rub off. Black oxide by itself doesn't really protect from rust.

**Chrome plated** - You can find these fasteners, but are quite expensive. Honestly, unless you love the look, they’re not worth the added cost.

**Plated with some other metal** You can plate steel with tons of other metals (you could even gold plate them if you wanted to). I won't list them all, but it basically boils down to this: unless you have a reason for needing them, don't bother.

Fasteners can also be painted, or powder-coated to aid in appearance, and corrosion resistance.

## Calling things by their correct name

Not sure the difference between a hex-head, and a socket head? Can’t tell a jamb-nut from a Castle-nut?

Perhaps this may be of use: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Type-Chart.pdf

[Ratchet]