Bodywork

## Footrests

A common problem is the gear change footrest coming loose. It is a difficult job to re-tighten this unless the plate to which it is mounted is removed first. However, it can be done, and is made easier by slackening off the chain first. A dab of loctite is advised to keep it tight.

## Fasteners

The Trophy is assembled at the factory using 'dry' bolts. It is strongly recommended that you remove bolts one at a time and apply a smear of 'copper ease' to prevent seizure in the future. Side panel retaining pins commonly snap. A dab of grease on the pin can help prevent this. Fairing clips can move out of place. They are cheap and commonly available if they need to be replaced; the fairing mounting bolts are not cheap, so best to replace the clip rather than damage the bolt.

## Foot Spoilers

There are 'snap fit' foot spoilers available, which some owners believe help to keep feet and legs warm in winter by preventing airflow through the louvre in the lower side fairings. Whilst they snap-in without too much trouble, they are difficult to remove. A little heat from a hair dryer helps!

## Mirrors

The 1991 to 1995 Trophy has the same mirrors as GPZ900R A7>A8, ZX10 and GPZ1000RX though the spacing of the mounting holes may be slightly different.

Some members have reported the mirror(s) becoming loose (within the mirror arm) even though the mountings on the fairing appear tight.

First suggested solution is to lift the rubber boot, where you'll see a split 'crown' fastener. This is pushed onto a shaft, and the sprung centre of the crown grips the shaft and compresses the mirror's joint. If the crown is loose, that's where your wobble comes from. Remove the mirror, find an appropriate-sized socket that fits over the shaft and whack it with a hammer to move the crown lower and compress the joint.

If this does not work you can use an appropriate-sized socket that fits over the shaft and another socket in the hole underneath to give it support. Effectively you are sandwiching the loose joint between both sockets. Put it all into a vice and tighten until the play is gone.

Second solution (from jefftrophy900) is to tap a hole in the centre of the post for a 10-32 screw, find a nut (3/8") which fits over the post and install a 10-32 button head screw and washer which, when tightened, pushes down the nut and compresses the bellville (spring) washers. Use removeable loctite on the screw, or you could use a nylock screw instead. The only slightly tricky part is the fact that due to the rubber boot which covers this, there is a height limit (you don't want a big bulge in the rubber boot. You can trim the thickness of the nut with a belt sander to the minimum needed to compress the washers. Two washers are possibly all that is needed.

## Fairing

It has been reported that a few Trophies (believed to be 2001) were found to have the fairings slightly out of alignment and that this was due to the welding fixture at the factory being knocked out of whack and not detected for a while.

For those that wish to reduce the time it takes you to remove the fairing from your Trophy, try [1] and go to the captive fastener section. You will have more choice of clip-on receptacle, fastener retainers, and either 1/4 turn or Fast-lead thread screws than you could shake a stick at!! As for their ability to hold the panel in place, these types of fasteners will probably do the job as the same types are used to hold fairings on to helicopters and fixed wing aircraft!

A company that has second hand panniers/body panels for sale is [2], but they also regularly appear on ebay UK.