Kannō

***Kannō*** [神往; かんのう] is the word most commonly translated as 'pilgrimage' in Kantonese. *Kannō* can involve visits to groups of temples, shrines, monasteries or other holy sites in a particular order, and traditionally taking 44 days to complete. Other kinds of pilgrimage may involve one visit to a singular site, especially a large, famed or important one. One of the most popular pilgrimage routes, which has been travelled for over 400 years, is the Chōsoren on Kanton's east coast.

Pilgrimages can be organised by tour bus companies, taking only a couple of weeks to complete, although many pilgrims prefer to take the two-month journey by foot in line with ancient tradition. Pilgrims are known as *kannōbun* and typically wear white clothing, straw mantles (*chissaro*) and carry long walking-sticks (*tobeki*) and paper lanterns. Traditionally, pilgrims have been exclusively male; however, nowadays it is not uncommon for women to participate too. However, women and men are discouraged from traveling in mixed groups.

## Traditions and customs

Pilgrimage is often regarded as a special journey during which one's spirit is closest to the gods. It is believed that one's heart becomes more accepting of spiritual wisdom. There are a number of customs observed on traditional pilgrimages, some of which have fallen away in modern times, but many of which are still known and practiced. Often, these customs warn against doing certain things, rather than encouraging behaviours. Some examples include:

* Do not hoard money, become stingy or miserly;
* do not kill any living thing;
* do not drink alcohol unless it has been blessed by a priest or monk;
* do not speak to the opposite gender;
* cast off unnecessary baggage [both physical and emotional] during one's journey;
* sleep under the stars whenever possible;
* be wary of spoiling food;
* always have medicinal supplies on hand;
* pray in thanks every night for one's gifts of movement, freedom and life.

Upon arrival at each temple, the kannōbun washes his face, hands and *tobeki* thoroughly, then removes his straw sandals before proceeding to the offering hall. After offering coins, incense, food, or salt, he participates in prayer and worship with his companions. Later down the line, when the pilgrim is approaching the end of his journey, he will undergo stronger cleansing rites - saltwater washes, and scrubbing the soles of his feet with soot or coals.

## Appearance

Pilgrims' appearances are very distinctive. Carrying a traditional walking-stick called *tobeki*, which they believe will guide them and offer protection, pilgrims also wear *chissaro* straw mantles for rain protection, white tunics known as *irenzō* and small white paper lanterns, which are attached to their bags or sometimes carried in one hand. These lanterns are for decorative purposes nowadays, but were once used to distinguish a pilgrim from a passing monk or priest. Pilgrims were not subject to the same tolls and travel restrictions that other people were in the olden days, and these lanterns were essentially their multi-use permits which allowed them to go anywhere.

The *tobeki* cane, typically made of hazelwood or birchwood, is treated with the utmost respect and considered the pilgrim's companion on his quest. When unsure of where to turn or what direction to travel in, a pilgrim would often consult his *tobeki* by standing it on the ground and then watching how it fell. The direction in which it fell was the direction he chose to travel in. It was also used to help traverse rough ground, and in desperate circumstances, could be used as a blunt weapon against bandits or thieves. Once their journey is over, pilgrims will burn their *tobeki* in a sacred bonfire.

The *irenzō*, or white tunic, is a lightweight garment typically made of inexpensive fabric. Since pilgrimages always take place in the summer, it was designed to be breathable and cool. Depending on the region in which a pilgrim is traveling, he may be able to use his *irenzō* as a seal stamp record when he visited a temple. The *hinru*, a bright red seal, would be pressed onto the back of the tunic, saving the pilgrim from having to purchase a special stamping book. At the end of his journey, a pilgrim would also burn his *irenzō*, provided it was not a family heirloom, as a large amount were.