Advanced Repositioning Techniques II

*Reference Book: Star Wars Saga Edition Web Enhancements (Customizing Star Wars Minis*)

By now, you might have realized that there are poses you just can't create by cutting and gluing. Sometimes that process leaves small gaps, and sometimes there's no way to join two pieces so that they look right. To create these advanced poses, you need to use longer pins and a filler material.

As with most repositions, first study the area that will be changed and determine the best spot to make the cut(s). Once you've separated the pieces, make guide holes and drill them out on the newly created flat surfaces. Cut an extra-long pin (1/4 to 3/8 of an inch long) and insert it into the larger piece using the needle-nose pliers. Carefully place the second piece on the other end of the pin.

If necessary, bend the element to achieve the desired angle. Make sure that the angle looks right, but don't worry if there's a gap between the two elements or if you can see the pin between them. Once you have the correct angle, apply a small amount of super glue where the pin meets the plastic on both pieces.

Once the glue is dry, fill in any gaps with a small amount of epoxy putty or contour putty. Put a small bead of putty in the gap, then scrape off the excess and shape the remaining putty to the area around it. To do this, you can use the curved blade of the sculpting tool, the blade of the hobby knife, a toothpick, or even your finger. You might find it easier to shape the putty if you let it air dry for a few minutes first.

Try to match the shape of the filler to the surrounding space. For example, if the area is hair or fur, try to draw lines in the putty with a pointed tool so that it looks more like the hair or fur around it. When the filler is dry, you can carve or sand it further and then paint it to match the area.

Once you are more comfortable with this technique, you can use it on multiple sections of the same miniature. For a complex job, study the figure first and imagine all the cuts and repositions before you even start. You might want to draw a rough sketch or stick figure so you'll know exactly how to position each element.

It's usually best to do all the cutting at once. This includes the cuts to separate the elements of the miniature and any cuts needed to achieve the proper angles on wedges. (See Moderate Repositioning Techniques, for information on cutting wedges.) If you're combining parts from two or more different figs, cut all the pieces that you'll need at the same time.

After making all the cuts, prepare all the pins you'll need. This includes drilling the holes, cutting the pins, and checking the angles. Don't start gluing pieces together until you're sure how you want to connect all of them.

When you're ready, use super glue to connect the pieces, starting with the largest pieces first and working toward the smallest. Glue one connection at a time and allow it to dry completely before you connect that piece to the next. Don't rush! You can always work on a second or third miniature while the first one dries.

When a connection is dry, fill in any gaps with putty, allow the putty to dry, and trim or shape it as needed. Keep in mind that it's better to remove too little putty at a time than to remove too much. Once the figure is in its final position, touch up areas with paint or completely repaint the whole thing.

Although this is the most complex repositioning method, it's great for creating dynamic-looking poses. As with the techniques described in previous articles, the more you become familiar with this method, the easier it gets. When you become proficient, you'll even be able to pin without drilling guide holes, using the pliers to simply push the pins into the flat surfaces.