The Ultimate Warrior Guide

Welcome To My

Ultimate Warrior Guide!

===:The Warrior Code:===

Before you read on, its important to know the warrior code. The warrior code is what all warriors live bye, and the rules they follow. Reading and understanding the code may help you understand other things about warrior live.

1. Defend your Clan, even with your life. You may have friendships with cats from other Clans, but your loyalty must remain to your Clan, as one day you may meet them in battle.

2. Do not hunt or trespass on another Clans territory.

3. Elders, queens, and kits must be fed before apprentices and warriors. Unless they have permission, apprentices may not eat until they have hunted to feed the elders. If any warrior or apprentice is sick or injured they may eat while the elders, queens, and kits are eating.

4. Prey is to killed only to be eaten, give thanks to Starclan for its life.

5. A kit must be at least six moons old to become a apprentice.

6. Newly appointed warriors will keep a silent vigil for one night after receiving their warrior name.

7. A cat cannot be made deputy without having mentored at least one apprentice.

8. The deputy will become Clan leader when the leader dies, retires or is exiled.

9. After the death or retirement of the deputy, the new deputy must be chosen before moonhigh.

10. A gathering of all four Clans is held at the full moon during a truce that lasts for the night. THere shall be no fghting among Clans at this time.

11. Boundaries must be checked and marked daily. Challenge all trespassing cats.

12. No warrior can neglect a kit in pain or danger, even if the kit is from a different Clan.

13. The word of the Clan leader is the warrior code.

14. An honorable warrior does not need to kill other cats to win their battles, unless they are outside the warrior code or if it is necessary for self-defense.

15. A warrior rejects the soft life of a kittypet.

16. Each Clan has the right to be proud and independent, but in times of trouble they must forget their boundaries and fight side bye side to protect the four. Each Clan must help the others so that no Clan will fall.

===::Additonal Rules::===

1. Medicine Cats can not have a mate or kits

2. Kits must stay in camp until they are apprenticed, and are not allowed to hunt. (Exception being butterflies, beetles and lizards inside the camp.)

3. The safety of the Clan is more important than the safety of one cat.

4. Clans must not unite togather to drive out another Clan.

5. Clans must not force another Clan to share territory.

6. Enemy patrols must not attack cats if they are on a mission all four Clans agree on.

7. Cats cannot eat when going to the Moonstone or Moonpool to speak with Starclan.

=====:Punishments:=====

The rules are often broke, and all Clans break the rules sometimes. Most rules have been broken at least once.

**General**

General punishments can be scolding, giving a warrior apprentice duties, or giving an apprentice an unpleasant task.

Losing Their Rank

Breaking the code can also result in a cat being stripped of their duties.

Exile

In severe cases, the cat may be exiled from the Clan.

After-Death Punishments

Cats who would murder for no reason, or have caused pain to others for nothing other than their own-enjoyment would also go to the Dark Forest (Also known as the Place of No Stars) upon their death.

Caring For Kits

Caring for kits can be even harder thaan being the leader of a clan. Being a mother/father to kits is a very big resposibility. Caring for a kitten(s) means that you care for them for 6 moons, and then watch over them till there warriors, and support and mentor them through difficult times.

The difficulty of caring for a kit depends one two factors, 1. The number of kits, 2, If both parents are around. The mothering instinctinstinct of a female cat kicks in when they have a kitten, there for making them natural parents. For a male cat, caring for kits can be a less natural instinct. When two cats parent a kit, the kitten grows more, having a kit parented bye only one sometimes confuses the kit. But despite this, raising a kit can be fun, sometimes stressful, and definetly opens up the world for both you and your mate.

Rules for caring for a kit (For a single parent, or for two parents)

1. Be truthful to a kit when it asks a question, just be careful and gentle in the way you say it, so it doesn't hurt or confuse it

2. Always interact with your kit, play games with it, and show it that you love it

3. Dont underestemate your kit, for it can often surprise you

4. Dont worry about being strict, although the kit may look hurt, it will relize that you were only helping it, this way the kit doesn't get spoiled

5. Try not to be sad at the lose of your mate, as this often reflects to the kit

6. Make sure you let it explore, just watch it carefully

7. Try to get it to interact with other cats, even those older then it, this helps it grow socially

8. Always support it, this makes the kit more confident

Taking care of a kit with a disability

1. Never coddle your kit

2. Make it do things that other kits do, like play and hunt beetles, this make sit feel useful

3. Dont doubt your kit, just because it lacks something (like blindness, loss of a limb(s), or a tail)

4. Always support your kit, this makes it more confident

5. A kit that is blind can be stronger in other factors, just as a cat without a limb(s), always make it uses its stength

A great example of cats who fought through there diffrenses and became ensentail to there clans are Jayfeather and Brightheart

When Kits Ask Questions

Kits can ask lots of questions and some of their questions make us stop and say, "Um.... Let me tell you another time." Well, I hope this helps you answer them.

The most common question

1. Where do I come from?

Well... This can be an akward question. Many kits wouldn't understand if you say like step bye step prossess. Plus thats kinda weird, and even though there are many ways to answer this question, this is how I would say it.

"Were do I come from mommy?" (kit) "You'r a gift from starclan, and you were given to us to help your clan grow." (Mother)

2. Why cant I be a warrior now?

Many kits want to be warriors, which is understandable. They want to learn to hunt and batle, but there to young. Here is my answer to this question.

"Why cant I be a warrior!" (Kit) "Being a warrior is very dangerous, and it takes years of training. You cant become one now, because your to young. Just wait a couple moons, and then you can begin training." (Mother)

Also, to disract a kit, teach it to hunt bettles, this will make it fell like a warrior, bye hunting, even small prey.

Medicine Cat Guide

Herbs And Their Uses

Alder Bark: Commonly used to sooth tooth pain, and toothaches.

Beech Leaves: Beech leaves dont cure any illness, they are mainly used to cary other herbs, for example a herb bundle.

Blackberry Leaves: This usefull herb eases the swelling of a bee sting, to work, they must be chewed into a pulp.

Borage Leaves: To be chewed bye nursing queens, helps preduce more and better milk, also brings down fever.

Bindweed: This herb is used to bind a broken leg into place.

Broom: Can be used to make polutics for broken legs and wounds.

Burdock Root: Can be chewed into a pulp, lessens pain and swelling of rat bites.

Catmint: One of the most useful herbs. Catmint cures greencough and whitecough, this herb is to be eaten.

Burnet: A traveling herb, keeps a cats strength up.

Celandine: Used to sooth damaged eyes, juice of this herb us dabbed onto the injury.

Chamomile: Soothes the mind, also given to cats for strength.

Chervil: For infected wounds and bellyache. Also can be given to queens kitting.

Cobwebs: Used to soak up blood. Apply gentle pressure to the wound to stop bleeding. Can also be used to bind wounds.

Coltsfoot: Eases breathing, exspeccialy in the ocasion of smoke breathed in, must be chewed into pulp.

Comfrey Root: Soothes wounds, repaires broken bones, also used for itching, or inflammation. Also used for wrenched claws, torn pads, can be used for burns as well.

Dandelion: Can be used to heal bee stings, also when chewed acts as a painkiller.

Daisy leaves: Soothes aching joints, also used as a traveling herb.

Dock: Chewed up and applied to scratches. Soothes sore pads, can also be lined in a nest, lessens pain.

Elder Leaves: Soothes sprains.

Fennel: Juice must be squeezed into the mouth to work. Helps pain in the joints and hips.

Feverfew: Used to reduce body tempeture for cats with fever or chills. Also used to heal aches and pains, good for headaches as well.

Goatweed: When given daily it eases anxiety and grieve.

Goldenrod: Very useful on wounds.

Honey: Soothes infections, very good for soore throats, or smoke damaged throats, helps cats swallow, helps soothes coughing, and gives energy.

Horsetail: When chewed into a poultice and applied to wounds, it helps treat infections and stops bleeding.

Juniper Leaves: When eaten it soothes bellyache, helps with breathing, gives strength, as well as calms cats.

Lavender: Helps cure fever and chills, also hides the scent of death.

Lungwort: Cures yellowcough when eaten.

Marigold: This herb is to be chewed, when done, it cures infections, stops bleeding, and it used for stiff joints.

Mint: The only use of this herb is to hide the scent of death.

Mousebile: Used mostly on elders. When applied ticks fall of. This herb is to be stored in moss.

Dried Oak Leaves: To be chewed and spread over wounded area. Stops infection from setting in.

Poppy Seeds: These seeds help a cat sleep, sooth shock and distress and ease pain. This herb can be life-threatening to nursing queens and there kits.

Ragwort Leaves: When mixed with juniper berries it helps aching joins. Also used to keep a cats strength up.

Rosemary: Hides scent of death.

Sorrel: Helps build up appetite, sorrel is a traveling herb.

Stick: Recomended for queens kitting to bite on. Also binds a broken limb.

Stinging Nettle: Induces vomiting, when mixed with comfrey, it can be used to heal bones. Helps with wounds.

Tansy: Cures cough, stops cats from getting greencough.

Thyme: Calms nervousness, and cats in distress.

Watermint: Soothes bellyache when chewed.

Wild Garlic: When rolled in, it soothes and helps infection on rat bites.

Willowleaves: Stops vomiting.

Wintergreen: Treats wounds and some poisons.

Yarrow: Used to make cats throw up, extracts poison from wounds, also cures cracked pads.

* Marigold SC.jpgMarigold
* AlderbarkPicture.jpgAlderbark
* Bindweed-1.jpgBindweed
* Broom.jpgBroom
* Emerging-Catmint-Foliage.jpgCatmint
* Burnet.jpgBurnet
* Celandine.pngCelandine
* Chamomile.jpegChamomile
* Chervil 2 grande.jpgChervil
* Coltsfoot-flowering.jpgColtsfoot
* Dandelioncvggvgfbbvgbvgbvg.jpgDandelion
* DockLeaves.jpgDockleaves
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Poisons

Deathberries: Kills a cat within one minute of eating it.

Foxglove: Usually mistaken for poppy seeds, they are used to treat the heart, although can easily cause paralysim.

Nightshade: Used to end a cats life when they can no longer be saved.

* Deathberries.pngDeathberries
* Foxglove4356f.pngFoxglove
* Nightshadeeeee.pngNightshade
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Remedies

**Adder Bite**

*Treatment Options*

*1. ---*

*2. ---*

*3. ---*

**Anxiety**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Poppyseeds*

*2. Juniperberries*

*3. Goatweed*

*4. Thyme*

**Bee Stings**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Blackberry Leaves*

*2. Tansy*

*3. Dandelion*

**Belly Aches**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Juniperberries*

*2. Mallow Leaves*

*3. Parsley*

*4. Watermint*

**Bleeding**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Cobwebs*

*2. Horsetail*

*3. Marigold*

*4. Raspberry Leaves*

**Burns**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Comfrey Root*

*2. ---*

*3. ---*

**Cracked or Damaged Pads**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Coltsfoot*

*2. Dock*

*3. Yarrow*

**Damaged Eyes**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Celandine*

*2. ---*

*3. ---*

**Fever**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Borage Leaves*

*2. Lavender*

*3. Feverfew*

**Headache**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Feverfew*

*2. ---*

*3.---*

**Hip Pain**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Daisy Leaves*

*2. Fennel*

*3. Marigold*

**Rat Bites**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Burdock Root*

*2. ---*

*3. ---*

**Scratches**

*Treatment Options*

*1. Dock*

*2. ---*

*3. ---*

Herb Care

Its always important to take care of herbs! They are a very valuable asset to any clan. And they can become damaged and useless if not cared for.

**1.** Make sure to keep your herbs dry. Try not to get them wet, and if they do get wet or damp, put them in the sun to dry. If there wet, they may not work as well.

**2.** Always gather Fresh herbs when you begin to run out. Its always good to have all your herbs avalible.

**3.** When you gather herbs, make sure you leave enough of the plant you took them from so they can reprouduce for next time.

**4.** Check your herb stores often. Go through them and make sure you get rid of old or weak herbs.

**5.** Wrap honey in dock leaves to keep fresh.

Battle Moves

Battle moves are an essential part of clan knowledge. Knowing how to defend yourself is very important. I hope this guide really helps!

**Common Battle Moves**

**1. Back kick**

This move is used to catch your opponent bye surprise with a powerful kick.

**How to**

Judge opponents distance carefully, then lash out with your back legs, taking the weight on your front paws.

**2. Back Rake**

This move is very similar to the Belly rake, and is great for above ground attacks

**How to**

For this move, its advised to jump from the front, over the cats head, and use your claws along your opponents back.

**3. Belly Rake**

This move is one of the most valuable. Its usually stops a fight. If your pinned down, the belly rake quickly puts you back in control.

**How to**

Slice with unsheathed claws across the soft flesh of your opponents belly.

**4. Double Death Bite**

This move seems dishonorable, and is and should only be used against very evil cats.

**How to**

A partner and you take on one cat. Once you've got hold of your opponent,your partner helps hold down the enemy cat, and you both bite down on the cats throat. Two pairs of jaws will cut of its airway, and the cat will choke to death.

**5. Dizzy Dance**

Only can be preformed bye a extremely small and quick cat against a larger and at least somewhat slower cat. This attack should in the end result in a dizzy or confused enemy.

**How to**

The cat charges head on then swiftly leaps sideways, ducking under the cat, then as soon as the cat preforms this attack is out from under the other cat it spins and leaps over it. Then once more spins but rams the side then jumps over/goes under the cat and rams the other side then land one finally blow bye leaping onto the cat's back and grabbing the scruff with teeth and using your free paws to batter the cat's head.

**6. Dizzy Tackle**

A great move for swift young warriors facing older, larger warriors. This is a One-on-one move and is not recommended in a place with many foes

**How to**

You run in circles around them at top speed until their to dizzy or tired (if they were chasing you) to keep up. Then you tackle them. While they are down, attack them. Caution, standing directly over them makes you vulnerable to the Belly Rake.

**7. Front Paw Blow**

This is a front attack, thats very basic, usually taught to beginning apprentices.

**How to**

Bring your front paws down hard on your opponents head, claws unsheathed.

**8. Front Paw Strike**

This is a front attack, second to be taught move.

**How to**

Slice downward with your front paw a the body or face of your opponent. Claws unsheathed.

**9. Killing Bite**

This move is sometimes considered dishonorable. And is used only as a last resort.

**How to**

Bite down hard on their lower neck, crushing the vertebra, and throat. This move is quick and silent.

**10. Leap and Hold**

This move is ideal for a small cat facing a large opponent. This move is often used in large groups of apprentices, they can defeat a large and dangerous warrior this way.

**How to**

Spring onto the opponents back and grip with unsheathed claws. Now you are beyond the range of your opponents paws and in the position to inflict severe body wounds.

**11. Leap-and-cover**

This move is ideal for making your opponent feel a lot of pain.

**How to**

Leap onto your opponent's back and put your paws over their eyes. For a moment the opponent is blinded, then sink your claws nto the soft skin around their eyes. If your opponent doesn't run away, take advantage of their temporary blindness ad perform leap-and-hold move.

**12. Scruff Shake**

This move is most effectie against rats,which are small enough to throw. A strong throw will stun or kill them.

**How to**

Secure a strong teeth grip in the scruff of your opponents neck, then shake violently until he or she is to rattle to fight back.

**13. Tail Trip**

This move isn't that useful of a move, and isn't used often, as it isn't very effective

**How to**

The opponents moves to you and at the right moment, trip them with your tail.

**14. Teeth Grip**

This move is a useful one, and is one the most used battle moves.

**How to**

Target your opponents legs, tail, scruff, or ears, and sink in your teeth and hold. This move is similar to the leap and hold, except your claws remain free to fight.

**15. Unbalancing Act**

This move can be used to momentarily distact your opponent.

**How to**

If a cat is going to bring down all its weight on you while rearing on its back legs, role towards your opponents hind legs to unbalance him/her.

**16. Upright Lock**

This move requires great strength and speed, and is adviced for more exsperienced warriors.

**How to**

Rear up on your legs and bring full weight on your opponent. If your opponent does the same, wrestle and flip him under you. This move makes you vulnerable to the belly rake.

**Techniques**

These techniques take alot of skill and time to master, but once you know them, you can easily outsmart your enemy, and win the battle.

**1. Rear up to Slash**

To hurt opponents coming from the air, this move can be used to rear up on the hind legs and slashing at the enemy

**2. Attack Crouch**

Crouching down to leap out onto your enemy.

**3. Tucking in the Tail**

The less you give your enemy to hold onto the better. This technique takes practice, as balancing with a tucked-in tail is tricky.

**4. Bushing out fur**

Bushing out fur makes you look twice as big as your enemy, and a frightened enemy is already half-beaten.

**5. Arched Back**

Used to intimidate the opponent or to vent out anger.

**6. Shoulder drop**

Grabbing the opponent's shoulders and then locking them against the ground. From here, the cat can do anything such as churning the hind paws against their spine, which causes great pain.

**7. Roll Over**

Used bye rolling over to avoid an enemy's swipes or grip.

**Battle Tactics**

Its always good to know a few battle tactics! They can help alot, and they can often give you the element of suprise. I hope these battle tactics gave yyou victory in your battle.

**1. Approach from behind your enemy**

The advantage is gaining higher ground is that you can charge at greater speed at the enemy, who will be weakened by having to fight uphill.

**2. Use the light from the sun**

The sun should be behind, so you can use the light from the sun against your enemy. In green leaf, the midday sun is especially bright and cruel to cats who are used to cats who are used to sulking under the cover of the trees. In leaf bare, the low sun hovers around the eye line like a troublesome bee, keep your enemy from facing it, and they'll have trouble seeing an attacker from any direction.

**3. Know were the wind is coming from**

Alot of cats use this tactic in battles. It can be very helpful, exspeccaly in ambush attacks. If there is a strong wind, it should blow from behind you toward the enemy, blinding them with dust and holding them back. If you wish to preserve the element of surprise, the wind should blow from the enemy position toward you so your scent is carries away from them.

**4. Conceal the size of your force**

The number of cats in your battle patrols can be hidden to confuse the enemy from a distance. Cats packed tightly together will appear as a small attacking force, encouraging the enemy to be over confidant and make poor strategic decisions. Alternatively, cats that are spread out in signal file, will look like a solid border of warrior, which will seem impenetrable to an advancing enemy.

**5. Attack from both ends of the enemy first**

If both ends of the enemy line are deafeated, the cats in the center of the line will have to fight the two fronts. Even if they are outnumbered, they will be out flanked vulnerable, and in disarray.

**6. Keep fresh warriors in reserve.**

Always have adequate reserves of fresh, fit warrior behind the battle line. They will be abale to replace injured warriors, launce a sperate attack if th enemy tries to encircle your forces, or fend of a surprise enemy from the rear.