Fuimaki

**Fuimaki** [先い妃; ふいまき] is the term used for a number of traditional Kantonese hairstyles considered to be distinctive in their construction and societal connotations.

Since the 14th century, the construction of most *fuimaki* styles has consisted of two 'wings' extending at the sides of the head, curving slightly upwards and held in place with a large comb. The handles of the comb often poked out from the tips of these extended sections and served as decorative pieces. Additional hair would be rolled into a bun on the top of the head and held in place with hairpins and combs. Various wigs and false hairpieces, called *donmi*, could be added for show, and were only used by the wealthy upperclass. Hair accessories and decorations, such as *ukimeta*, small bells, artificial flowers and bejewelled items, could also be added to almost any hairstyle.

*Fuimaki* often signified one's ranking or status in society. For example, a well-dressed woman wearing an elaborate wig and many accessories in the *bonyaka* ['bowl of jewels'] style could easily be identified as a noble court lady. Monks were usually recognisable by their wedge-like hairstyles which extended in a semi-circle around the back of the head (known as *sōkata*). Ordinary peasants and labourers often wore their hair in plain, simplistic styles with no accessories, or let it hang loose. The most intricate *fuimaki* had to be shaped with wax, which was expensive and time-consuming.

## History

Many hairstyles now labelled fuimaki developed during the 14th and 15th centuries, when the popular preference for long, flowing hairstyles began to fade, and more elaborate, upswept styles became fashionable. Early *fuimaki* were often rather basic, feature two 'wing' sections (*uemi*) at either side of the head, and often with a real or artificial topknot (*notsu*) added to the top. However, throughout the following centuries more styles began to develop, and more intricate ways of shaping hair were invented. In the 16th century, braiding (*yanna*) became very popular, and artificial braids were often added to both male and female hairstyles for extra detail.

Traditionally, Kantonese hairstylists and wig-makers have always been male, as the art of creating elaborate hairstyles was often considered too complex and manual for women.

## Styles

It is believed that there are still around 110 traditional *fuimaki* hairstyles which are still used or at least known of. Those who wear *fuimaki* are often re-enactors or modern-day *seiryō*. In the case of the latter, there are four hairstyles which *seiryō* have been traditionally allowed to, and do still, wear.

### Female styles

* *Bonyaka* [盆莎]: this hairstyle originated in the mid-1300s amongst the ladies and noblewomen of the Imperial court. It features a large central *notsu*, spanning the circumference of the hair, which has slightly raised or curved sides and a large hollowed-out area. Within this bowl-shaped space, a variety of hair accessories are arranged, forming a kind of crown around the outer edges of the *notsu*.
* *Yūyan* [指织]: this hairstyle originated in the 1300s as a style for court maids and ladies-in-waiting, but eventually became more popular with lower-ranking yet wealthy merchant's wives in the 16th and 17th centuries. It features a large amount of braiding, arranged in stiff coils or circles around the head, and usually required a lot of waxing. Additional false pieces of braiding were often sewn in as extensions.
* *Shōnotsu* [両のつ]: this simplistic hairstyle originated in the 1400s and was mostly worn by high-ranking maids and townswomen. It featured two *uemi* sections and a pair of *notsu* on top of the head. This style became widely used amongst married women by the 1800s.
* *Asabe* [俺阍]: a hairstyle used during ceremonies, particularly weddings and coming-of-age rites, in the 15th and 16th centuries. It consisted of two large plaits, worn down the back, and many smaller braids gathered from the forehead to sit in a dome shape atop the head. Another variety also used two large braids, but gathered hair into a large chignon atop the head.
* *Hayake* [俺上耏]: this hairstyle was invariably worn as a wig, and favoured by *meiri* courtesans for its impressive, tall structure. It always featured a large amount of wooden hairpins [*aki*] and combs [*zadaki*], intended to keep the hairpiece in place, but also adding majestic detail.
* *Nonomi* [滚妃]: this hairstyle was the most popular amongst *seiryō*, and was similar to the *shōnotsu*. It featured two large uemi sections, and a large cylindrical *notsu* supported by a clasp called *tsura-zadaki*, similar to a modern-day hair claw.
* *Korami* [従妃]: this hairstyle was popular with prostitutes, and was similar in style to the basic *korakata*. The hair was drawn upwards into a large, oval chignon and fastened with a large *zadaki* which fanned across the nape of the neck.
* *Korakata* [従予]: related to the *korami*, the *korakata* was essentially a smaller and less impressive version, lacking the large *zadaki* or any other hair ornaments. It was often worn by maids in brothels, teahouses, and *seiryō* lodges, though could also be seen on the heads of street performers and male prostitutes.
* *Gengata* [席予] was the style popular amongst working women, labourers, housewives and unmarried girls of low social standing. The hair was left to fall down the back, but a small *notsu* was added to the top of the head.

### Male styles

* *Beikan* [伪予] was a style used by the noblemen and lords of the Imperial court from the 1300s until the 1600s. It was often worn as a wig, and used a large amount of wax. The hair was pulled up into a large, oval-shaped chignon which encompassed the crown of the head, and large combs and other accessories were placed around the sides and back of the hair for decoration.
* *Nōmi* [仔妃] was a style favoured by the merchants of the 16th and 17th centuries. The *uemi* sections were lower than usual, their tips pointing towards the shoulders, and a large *notsu* was arranged atop the head and supported by an upside-down-fan-shaped hair accessory called *omae-zadaki*. Typically, the *notsu* was also topped by two *aki* and a small comb.
* *Sōkata* [僧予] was worn exclusively by monks, and involved the shaving of the dome of one's head. The remaining hair was arranged in a backwards-facing wedge shape, which extended in a half-circle around the sides of the head. Due to the humble image associated with monks and men of the gods, hair accessories were never used.
* *Saikata* [勇予] was worn often by *sai*, *manza* and high-ranking soldiers and warlords. It was often worn as a wig. Two extremely large *uemi* [typically about a foot in length and six inches in height] extended from the sides of the head, and were topped with a very large *notsu*, decorated with red, gold and black hairpins. Hairpins used by military men often resembled swords or blades in their design, and had ribbons or silk strips tied to them.
* *Meikan* [沒術] were simplistic hairstyles intended for daily wearing by men of the upper and middle classes, and usually featured a singular *notsu*, which sat behind a large, fan-shaped *uemi* styled on the crown of the head just above the temples. These two sections were separated by a *zadaki* comb. This style was also made into wigs, so that false *meikan* could be rented by lower-class men for use during ceremonies and important events. By the 1700s, it was favoured by male theatre actors.
* *Minotsu* [六のつ] was a hairstyle originating in the 1100s as a style for young men, but evolved into a style associated with *shōshin* and male prostitutes [*ōrei*] by the 1300s. It featured two low-hanging *uemi* sections, and, similarly to the *korami* hairstyle, utilised a fan-shaped *zadaki* which covered the nape of the neck; this accessory was almost exclusively worn by sex workers. On top of the head sat two large *notsu*, around six inches in diameter, which were supported by a small *zadaki* each. *Shōshin* wore a very similar style, although it featured a large cyndrical *notsu* with a *tsura-zadaki* clasp akin to the type worn by *seiryō*.
* *Kakata* [衣予] was worn by low-ranking servants, labourers, and young male prostitutes and teahouse workers. The hair fell loosely down to the wearer's chin or shoulders, and a small section was tied up into a *notsu*. Field workers, miners, farmers and fishermen would often modify the hairstyle to include two very small *uemi* for practicality.