1960 Season Rules

## **Summary**

Each “race weekend” will consist of a single qualifying session and the race. For each qualifying lap you will input a set of instructions about how to take each corner (what gear, how late to brake, what risk to use), on your own personal Google Doc spreadsheet, meaning you can do your qualifying laps whenever you like!

You will then get feedback on your own spreadsheet for each lap – please note; going too fast will cause you to damage your car, so you may want to start slower and then build up your pace! You can of course change your approach lap by lap to improve your time, but you must run 1 lap at a time. Qualifying is run as one continuous session, so you will simply have a car with enough fuel to do the entire session – as a result you won’t ever alter your fuel amount in qualifying, though you may pit to repair damage to the car.

Once qualifying is wrapped up the grid will be determined, and you can input your instructions for the race itself (note – you do not need to wait until qualifying is finished to input these). Again, these will be in the form of braking distance, gear selection, risk levels etc done on a separate tab of your own Google Doc spreadsheet.

You will also pre-determine your pit strategy, but should your car become damaged during the race this may be fatal and lead to a retirement, so it is good to push the limits of your setup but not to exceed them. Finally - given the limited amount of mechanics, if two (or more) cars from the same team pit on the same lap they will be queued behind each other and lose a realistic amount of time, so make sure you coordinate your strategies!

## **The Instructions**

For each corner you need to submit a gear from the pre-allocated range your car has, and a braking point that should be from 0m up to around 250m or so. The more you push in a lap the better the chance of a good lap time, but equally the more chance of you making a mistake and costing you valuable time to fix your car.

***Qualifying***

Here is an example of how your spreadsheet will look:

There is also a **Feedback Tab** that shows you how well you are performing vs the optimal gears & braking choices, as can be seen here:

Please note that further instructions are included on the sheet itself, plus of course your team-mates and I will be able to help you with anything that isn’t immediately apparent.

***Race***

There is a Race Setup tab on your sheet that you simply need to fill in to confirm your race setup & strategy.

The race is simulated by JB using a custom-built website from that point onwards. The link to view the race on will be posted in the GPRO thread.

**Please be aware that only the Top 30 drivers qualify for each race.**

***Weather Changes***

Team Principals will know both the predicted Qualifying and Race weather at the start of the session. It is advisable to input a wet setup on your Race Setup tab in order to avoid crashing out if the weather does become wet. If it does become wet then this is made as realistic as possible (i.e. doesn't become 100% wet or 100% dry within the space of a lap), while your driver will always choose whatever option costs the least time in terms of waiting for a scheduled stop to pit or coming in for a brand new stop. It is not possible to change your standard strategy in the middle of a race.

***Collisions***

There is the possibility of collisions within the race – this will be worked out by looking at any blocking/overtaking situation. If the two cars in a blocking situation have a combined risk level of 6 or above then there is a chance a collision may occur – this will be worked out by adding the combined risk level to a dice roll (generated by the RANDBETWEEN function in Excel) and if the total is 12 or higher this will cause a collision between the two cars.

e.g. If 1 driver has Risk L5 and another has Risk L1, the combined total is 6. That means only a roll of 6 can cause a collision. If, however, both drivers have Risk L5 then any roll other than a 1 will cause a collision.

***Damage from Collisions***

In a collision the amount of damage caused to your car will be determined by your risk level (divided by 2) and setup position (divided by 5) combined to make an amount of seconds per lap you will be slower by – e.g. if you used risk level 5 and had the 12th best setup, the sum would be 5 divided by 2 (=2.5) plus 12 divided by 5 (=2.4) to give a total of 4.9 seconds damage per lap. This damage will continue until your next scheduled pit-stop, where you will sit in your pit-box for the same number of seconds extra to repair the damage. Emerging from the pits your car will be fully repaired again!

Please note - risk levels do have a decent impact on pace to counteract the clear negative effects of using higher risks.

## **Team Principals**

These people are responsible for the running of the 10 F1R teams for 1960. Those Team Principals from last season who completed their Objectives were offered new Contracts, meanwhile those who failed to complete their objectives were replaced by those at the top of the 1959 Drivers’ standings who wanted to manage a team this season. This season every one of them has an objective to try to achieve, which will determine if they carry on in that Team Principal role. In order to be a Team Principal in future, you simply need to finish as high up as possible in the Drivers Standings to be offered the chance to take over a team.

Team Principals for 1960 are as follows:

* Aston Martin – Josh Anderson
* BRM – Janne Väänänen
* Cooper – Kyle Morris
* Ferrari – Tim Wagner
* JBW – Eduardo Fernandes
* Lotus – Mark Witney
* Maserati – John Ibbotson
* Porsche – Wopke Hoekstra
* Scarab – Rocco Stallone
* Vanwall – Mike Baston

More information on the ins and outs of their roles/responsibilities can be found in their own separate thread here:

Team Principals

## **Current Line-Ups**

30 seats immediately available in F1 Revisited this season with another 29 on stand-by! That means initially there are only 3 seats per team available!!!

## **The Driver Allocation**

Drivers who competed last season will be allocated to the same people as before, as long as either a) the driver or b) the person did not retire before the ’60 season. These drivers are fixed and cannot be changed until the driver actually retires from Formula 1. The only exception is the winning driver from the previous season, who will always return to defend their title.

Initial driver confirmations have already been completed by PM. Now ALL DRIVERS in the game will agree their salaries with the Team Principal (these are real GPRO players as per the above list), and both should send me a copy of the contract filled in identically:

* Driver Name –
* Team Name –
* Contract Length – X years
* Signing Bonus – £X
* Salary – £X
* Contribution (the amount the driver is going to give towards the team’s development) – £X

Previous drivers still in use are shown here:

If you are new to the game you will need to select a new driver from the list of available drivers below (note, the Indy 500 representatives are not permitted):

You will represent the same driver in the following years and cannot ditch him until he retires, so if you have your eye on someone who started racing in 1961 it is advisable to choose a driver who did not compete in that season – though winning the whole thing would of course prevent you from using said 1961 driver.

Drivers have been allocated in order of championship position last season, and now on a 1st come 1st served basis to new players once joining starts. There is no competitive advantage to be gained between drivers, aside from the driver multiplier.

## **The Teams**

As in real F1 the chassis you have under you is crucial and the actual performance of each will vary, though only in as much as the top speed and gears available initially (overall the field will be quite evenly matched - as this effect has been muted even more from last season). That said, money for manufacturer upgrades will become available based on how accurately your car is setup and how your team performs in the race, so even the worst car on the grid can achieve performance upgrades if the players do well.

You cannot change teams during a season, though you are not tied in to the same team for future seasons (unless you sign a contract for more than one season)…also a winning constructor will be permitted to stay on if it did not compete in the next season. Team choices will be down to the team principals to agree with the drivers; each team has the same multiplier limit so some of the top teams may take a punt on a brand-new driver (this is to try and ensure even competition).

A total of 59 drivers can compete in this 10th season, although initially only 30 will be offered contracts.

## **Money**

Here is the current financial situation for the drivers:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1I-I6ZEfoDKLFUN1xAHqQTIMeFBgj\_0ErNiraSoO2lgk/edit#gid=30

Please note – you can only spend money if you are in positive balance. You can still go into negative money with a single purchase but won’t be able to buy anything else until you’re back in the black.

There are several things that money can be used to purchase, as follows:

***Multiplier Boosts***

Every driver has a multiplier figure, which is based on their experience in F1R. However you can boost this figure in the short-term by purchasing some of the following improvements:

***Homes***

You can live anywhere in the world that you want to …if you can afford it. To buy a house in a country other than that of your birth will cost a premium, but will allow you to test on that track between races so when the Grand Prix circus finally shows up to town you will be quicker at that track. Simply send a PM with the words “Quote on a house in COUNTRY NAME(S)” and I will respond with the relevant prices to do so. You may have more than 1 house, but this will dilute your multiplier by the amount of houses you own.

***Citizenship***

A long and drawn out 5 year process, but you can change the country you represent by living there for 5 years in a row…this will allow drivers who may not have a home GP the chance to get the small speed boost that your favourite track affords you. After securing a house in a country, simply send a PM with the words “Apply for Citizenship” and your application will begin the long process of being put through. Dual citizenship is a possibility too.

***1960 Financial Rewards***

Money is given for the following achievements:

**Championship & Setup Rankings:**

* 1st place – £4,000
* 2nd place – £3,000
* 3rd place – £2,500
* 4th place – £2,000
* 5th place – £1,500
* 6th place – £1,250
* 7th place – £1,000
* 8th place – £750
* 9th place – £625
* 10th place – £500
* 11th place – £450
* 12th place – £400
* 13th place - £350
* 14th place - £300
* 15th place - £250
* And so on until…
* 20th place – £25

**Race:**

* 1st place – £250
* 2nd place – £100
* 3rd place – £75
* Setup (each race):
* 1st place – £500
* 2nd place – £450
* 3rd place – £400
* 4th place – £350
* 5th place – £300
* 6th place – £250
* 7th place – £200
* 8th place – £150
* 9th place – £100
* 10th place – £50

**Incidentals:**

* Pole Position – £100
* Fastest Lap – £100
* Per point (inc. dropped scores & FL) – £20 \* NOT given to Podium finishers any more

**End of Season**

* Top performer in the team - £1,000 \* NOT given to overall Champion any more
* Best 3 improvements in a race - £1,000/£500/£100 \* NOT given to overall Champion any more
* Most race finishes in a season - £500 \* NOT given Top 5 in Championship any more
* Per objective achieved over the season - £500 \* NOT given Top 5 in Championship any more

Please note that you will be taxed 25% for every £1 you finish the season over the £10,000 mark.

**1959 Earnings:**

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1SDwQZ0\_Z3nOhGZao5qbvIzrw3Af5HMFCmNaCLcoQJCY/edit#gid=30

For next season if you lost your driver you will still carry the same financial clout with the new driver, likewise if a new player takes over a previous driver they will take over any finances associated with them.

Also, driver multiplier does NOT go with you to a new driver - so if you are taking on a new driver they will start with a multiplier value of just 1.00.

## **New Season Changes**

Some things to look out for:

1. Races are now simulated via a custom-built website.
2. Team differences will be muted vs last season.
3. Pitting for a collision will result in you putting on fresher tyres, which will reduce your lap-time by 1 second per lap until your next pit-stop (to counteract the effects of the enforced pit slightly)
4. Team Principals are able to submit race strategies for team-mates that have qualified but forgotten to send in their race strategy
5. Now more options for things you can spend money on to allow you to find mid-session improvements in your race setup
6. A calendar is now published with provisional dates for each race
7. Formula 2 Revisited is now introduced, where races are simulated based on votes (each driver who competes in the F1R race would get a single vote they could use to back an F2R driver)/team backing (number of team objectives achieved allows you to give "boosts" to certain drivers in the series to improve their performance). F2R drivers would be F1R drivers that would join the series in future seasons and any overlooked F1R drivers from that season. Performing well in the F2R championship gives drivers motivation boosts if/when they join the main series.
8. It has been decided that temperature will impact fuel consumption from 1961 onwards, so this is the last season where it does not!
9. The points system is different this year (as per the real 1960 F1 season) with points all the way down to 6th place in a 8-6-4-3-2-1 format.
10. Only 2 tyre suppliers remain, based on real 1960 F1R. Choose wisely between them.

PLEASE NOTE – Though all efforts have been made to make this historically accurate there is likely to be some departure, if I have made any errors regarding (for example) the gear a corner is to be taken at I can only apologise. I do welcome feedback to improve the game moving forwards.