Chōsoren Pilgrimage

The **Chōsoren Pilgrimage** [敢森迂神往; ちょうそれん・かんのう] also known as the **Chōso Way**, is a centuries-old pilgrimage traditionally undertaken by young monks and priests of eastern Kanton. It is a multi-site tour of 28 temples spread across the eastern prefectures, including Karunaki, Senbana, Ōchome and Ekana.

The Chōso Way is a popular and distinctive feature of the region's cultural landscape, and with a 400-year-old history, it is considered one of the most sacred pilgrimages in the country. Each year, hundreds of pilgrims [or *kannōbun*] still undertake the journey for a variety of ascetic, pious, or tourism-related purposes. The route is traditionally traveled on foot, but modern pilgrims can use cars, taxis, buses, bicycles, campervans or any other plausible means of transport. At a standard pace, the journey takes around 40 days to complete.

In addition to the 28 official temples of the pilgrimage, there are some other sites of spiritual significance that can be visited. It is not necessary to visit the temples in order, but it is most convenient. The Chōsoren takes place during late July and overlaps into early August, during which the weather is often most suitable for long-distance trekking. The route is studded with campgrounds in which pilgrims can set up their tents while on the road. The route begins at the Zōgan Monastery in southern Karunaki, reaches its mid-point at Abuhashi Temple in Senbana, and concludes at the peak of Mount Anzata in Ekana.

## Practice

### Stages

Chōsoren literally means 'way of the green/lush forest', and refers mainly to the Senbana woodlands, which make up a large part of the route. The journey traditionally requires pilgrims to fast often and live frugally, tightly conserving their supplies even if it is not wholly necessary, reflecting the Kiren adversity to self-indulgence. The pilgrim's journey through the forest and ending at the peak of Mount Anzata is likened to a symbolic path to enlightenment, representing the idea of passing through 'darkness' or 'ignorance' before ascending to 'light'.

### Equipment

The pilgrim will wear a traditional costume comprising of a white tunic (*irenzō*), a straw mantle (*chissaro*), and a walking-stick or staff {*tobeki*) made from hazelwood. In his pack, he carries small tokens for offering (copper coins, seaglass, and trinkets), a booklet or strip of cloth to collect *hinru* stamps, an auspicious *hanji* carving or figurine (along with a wooden bead necklace), sticks of incense, and any belongings or handiworks he might sell or trade along the way. Attached to his belt or bag is a string of small white paper lanterns, used to identify him as a pilgrim and provide him unlimited access while traveling.

### Rites/customs

Upon arrival at each temple, the *kannōbun* washes his face, hands and *tobeki* thoroughly, then removes his straw sandals before proceeding to the offering hall. After offering coins, incense, food, or salt, he participates in prayer and worship with his companions. Later down the line, when the pilgrim is approaching the end of his journey, he will undergo stronger cleansing rites - saltwater washes, and scrubbing the soles of his feet with soot or coals. These customs are not particular to the Chōsoren pilgrimage, and are in fact practiced during every pilgrimage in Kanton.