Bearded Dragon

## **General Information**

* **Scientific Name:** *Pogona vitticeps*
* **Lifespan: 8-12 years**
* **Length: 16-24 inches** (Males are slightly larger than females)
* **Omnivore**
* **Diurnal**
* **Terrestrial**

## **Geographic Range and Habitat**

Some of the native habitats of the *Pogona vitticeps* are arid woodlands, scrublands, savannas, and greater interior deserts of Central Australia. Most of their time is spent in bushes, in trees, and basking on rocks.

## **Availability**

Bearded Dragons are one of the most common pets in the reptile-keeping hobby and are usually available at any pet or reptile stores.

## **Behaviour and Handling**

They are one of the staples of the reptile-hobby because of their calm temperament and lovable nature. They can be tamed to the point where they crave human attention. Bearded Dragons show interesting behaviour, such as "arm-waving" and head bobbing. When they are angry or irritated their beard will turn black and "puff up", while their body will flatten out to make them look bigger.

## **Housing and Substrate**

Hatchlings can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium for a short amount of time. Adult Bearded Dragons should be housed in a 4ft x 2ft x 2ft long-terrarium or any 75-gallon terrarium with ample floor space as they are a terrestrial species. Rocks and pieces of wood around the cage and under the basking spots are favourites for Bearded Dragons. A screen lid should be used for ventilation to keep the humidity down. A hide should be given on the hot side and cool side to give them options.

Recommended substrates are tile, reptile carpet, paper towel/newspaper, or excavator clay (if used properly). Sand used to be the staple substrate for Bearded Dragons, but there is a risk of compaction by getting sand in their mouth when eating or licking the substrate out of curiosity. If you do decide to use any type of sandy substrate, do so with caution. Younger Bearded Dragons should absolutely NOT be on any sandy substrates because they are clumsy eaters and impaction is much more serious in their case (can easily cause death).

## **Heating and Lighting**

For adults, a basking area of 95-105 degrees Fahrenheit is required. A rock or piece of wood works well as a basking spot. The cool end of the enclosure should be around 83-88 degrees. Bearded Dragons can withstand night-time temperatures as low as 65 degrees, but 70-80 degrees is optimal. Full-spectrum UVB lighting is very important to keep them healthy. The UVB lights assists them to synthesize vitamin D3 and in turn, absorb calcium. The enclosure should have a hot side and cool side, so the option to thermo-regulate is presented.

## **Diet and Vitamins**

### Vegetables and Fruits

When it comes to plant matter, variation is key for Bearded Dragons because they can become bored of certain foods. A dish full of veggies and occasionally some fruit should be offered every day. No piece of food larger than the space between their eyes should be offered. Collard greens, mustard greens, or dandelion greens should be the staple veggie diet because they carry the most beneficial nutrients. Other recommended vegetables are romaine lettuce, zucchini, carrots, etc... Recommended fruits are kiwi, banana, mango, etc... Avoid iceberg lettuce due to its lack of nutrients. Avocado and rhubarb are poisonous for Bearded Dragons. If you're wondering if a fruit or vegetable is edible, check out this great website:

☀http://pogopogona.com/feeding-bearded-dragons/can-bearded-dragons-eat

### Insects

Insects should be offered every day to babies and juveniles and every two days for adults. Young ones should be fed crickets because their shells are easier to digest. Adults can be fed crickets, superworms, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, earthworms, or locusts. For treats they can be fed horn worms, butterworms, or pinkies, but only in moderation because of their fat content.

### Vitamins

Calcium and multivitamins are a must for their diet and should be dusted on their insects and vegetables. Baby Dragons are growing rapidly, so calcium and vitamin D3 is needed every day. Juvenile Dragons should receive their supplements 3-4 days every week and every 1-2 days for Adults that have stopped growing. Gut-loading the insects they are eating is always a good idea for additional supplementation.

## **Water and Humidity**

Even though Bearded Dragons live in dry areas, a small water dish should still be available daily. They should be given a bath at least once every two weeks as it keeps them clean and also helps with their digestion. The lower the humidity the better. If the humidity is too high, there is a higher risk for mouth rot, scale rot, and respiratory infections.

## Sites Used

* http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Lizards/Bearded-Dragon/
* http://zoomed.com/cm/resources-stuff/Care%20Sheet/fb\_BeardedDragon.html
* http://www.thebeardeddragon.org/bearded-dragon-diet.php
* http://pogopogona.com/feeding-bearded-dragons/can-bearded-dragons-eat