France

## Areas

### Annot

Annot is a sandstone bouldering area in the South of France (North West of Nice and Cannes).

### Ariege

In the South of France and the foothills of the Pyrennes is Ariege. Some information about bouldering (and more general climbing and accommodation) can be found at ClimbAriege.

### Argenton

Argenton Bloc details the granite bouldering in this area.

### Brittany

The following is a report from UKB Regular tomtom...

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> Just back from a cracking week in Brittany and thought I'd write down some words to share what a great place it was! There is some superb bouldering along the north coast. I was there for 6 days and managed to climb/boulder every day. The locations were superb – coastal locations mostly on or right next to gorgeous empty sandy beachces – which kept MrsTT happy whilst I floundered on the boulders. I’ve made a short (and fairly crap) video of my puntering efforts as it gives you a better idea of what was what... there were three main areas I found which I’ll talk about below. Sorry the video’s a bit crap but I ran out of SD space and some was filmed on the phone.. also I only had one small mat and some of the stuff was pretty highball – so I used all my courage and only climbed the low/easy stuff! All areas were really quiet (was the week after the French Holidays end) chilled, relatively inexpensive, not too hot, not too cold... winning. If you also like Swimming/Kite/Surfing/Sailing type things its a fantastic area.. loads to do and really chilled out.
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Bouldering in Brittany

Roche de Napolean

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> The rock in the video was fine grained granite. Superb friction, mixture of cracks and small flakes – lots of burly sloper action too (rather like grit climbing). The probs on the vid are only about 5/5+ but on the reverse of the block there was a great 6b traverse and a few good straight ups. The second time I visited the rocks I bumped into a chap called Ivan, who (according to my poor French and his poor English) worked for the French BMC – he also talked me through the problems. The overhanging nose on the left went at about 7b (2 or 3 variations) and felt superb on big undercuts to slopey lips – though was too hard for me (I blame the excessive cheese consumption). The outcrops around the rock in the picture also had some bolts on them, and when I asked Ivan whether or not there was more climbing in the area he waved and suggested everywhere. This outcrop was probably just under at high tide – but was bone dry when I was there.
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Tregastel

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> This was the area mentioned in the Midlands rock climbing guide to Brittany bouldering – its located on the Cote du Granite Rose – which is an amazing 10k of coast (and inland) dominated by huge pink granite boulders. The rock here was coarser granite, some razor sharp, with great chicken heads and flakes. This area was tidal – but with an 8m tidal range it was dry for a good 8 hours per cycle.. On the W.Midlands guide they mentioned they were high – but the video gives you an idea of how big! The first problem in the vid (Mastadon grade?) looked ace, but I couldn’t hang the slopers in the heat (and it kept slicing my palm!) also there was no obvious way down! Around the RH side of the same boulder were a couple of great face problems on smears and chicken heads at c.6a/6a+. The back end of this had a mad 45 degree overhanging face c.2.5m high with a few small features (one leading to a lip jug) that looked like amazing potential. The main face (LH of the arête I was trying) looked incredible – some chicken heads dotted up it indicated potential – but with one small mat and no spotter... The smaller boulder behind had an easier angled face (but high) which is the second (easy) problem (4+) and the third clip from this site is just me puntering around on a slab but shows the fantastic scenery. There is loads to go at here – if you had a spotter and a couple of mats it would be fantastic. I can post up some other pics of lines I tried but bottled etc.. The w.Midlands guide mentions c.10 problems here but having explored the other blocks theres an easy days worth of exploration there.. Location wise its bang on the beach which is (sadly) a bit more developed than the first site (cafe’s etc..).
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Plogasnou

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> I stumbled across this site whilst looking for somewhere nice to eat a picnic. Its on a headland just west of Pougasnou and back on finer grained granite. The problem in the vid was located in a spectacular spot – the shelf its on ends about 1.5 left of the horn shaped rock and then drops c.15 to the wave cut platform. I justify my poor climbing by having no mat nor spotter and a huge drop to the left. Great problem though.. This problem appeared to be part of a circuit! There were route and problem numbers and the Font style arrows pointing to the next problem etc.. Sadly I’d left the mat at the Gite that day, and MrsT must have eaten a moule that disagreed with her so I couldn’t stay long and explore – but well worth a look around. Someone has spent some time sorting the place out with short bolted routes and a circuit (though it needed a good clean so not much action I suspect). All above the tide line. Wish I had more time to go back there...
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> A great place to explore – I would thoroughly recommend it.. we lucked out with the weather the week we were there but its an amazing coastline to explore with stacks and stacks of unclimbed problems – deserted beaches – fantastic seafood. It needs a little exploration but I found things to climb every day fitting in around beach/lunch/sightseeing schedules (and a wedding).
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#### Accommodation

There are plenty of options for accommodation, camping, gites, static caravans, basic hotels (eTap/Formula 1) or more expensive options. Its very easy to get around the forest and you rarely need to drive more than half an hour from any of the sites to reach most areas.

**Gites**

Plenty of gites are available throughout France for hire. A selection of those in the Fontainebleau region can be found and booked via Gites de France (simply search for 'Fontainebleau'). Many regulars of UKBouldering frequent the forest and the following are member's reviews of the places they have stayed...

**Camping**

Innumerable campsites dotted about the forest...

Les Courtilles du Lido - Nice large campiste with static caravans and tents for rental as well as camping. Swimming pool, crazy golf and nice pizza's from the onsite bar and a Supermarche is passed on the drive in/out of the campsite (saves driving to the Carrefoure). One possible downside is the proximity of the railway line. Walking distance to the beautiful fortified town of Moret sur Loing where an excellent meal can be had in the La Gavotine Reasturant.

Camping Grez - Large campsite (with English speaking owner), choice of individual plots, or a more open field where fires are allowed (rare in France). Has an excellent pizza van on Sunday nights, but get back early to order as the queue/wait can be very long.

La Musardière - In the heart of the forest with a swimming pool (trunks no swim shorts!). Ideal if you've not got a car as you can walk to several areas from here.

**Free Bivy Sites**

There is a long tradition of bleusards bivying in the forest though and the remains of some of these sites can still be found. However, **wild camping is banned in the forest** and you may well find you're asked to move on if you try kipping in your car/van in the car-parks. Nowadays there are a handful of official sites dotted around the forest, although some, such as the one near Bas Cuvier, have been closed due to misuse/abuse (**DO NOT BIVY HERE**). One that remains open is Bourron Marlotte, its very basic, but has a running water from a tap and a hut with a drop-pit style toilet in.

#### Sustenance

If you are in a gites, camping or any other form of self-catering there is a large Carrefour at Villiers en Bière. As of writing IT IS NOT OPEN ON SUNDAYS!!, but up-to-date details can always be found here. There is also a McDonalds and a large Decathlon which is well worth a browse.

**Milly la Foret**

There is a well stocked Intermarche in Milly. Worth going to see the Coypu in the lake adjacent to the car park! Location Also in the market square is a small but well stocked mini mart type place - probably a bit more expensive though. Milly also has a proliferation of amazing boulangeries, a pizza delivery place and even a Japanese restaurant!

**Eating Out**

For recommendations of restaurants in the forest see this thread.

#### Pad Hire

There are a number of options for hiring crash pads in the forest.

#### Child/Family Friendly Venues

A common question on UKB is which areas are suitable for families and kids. Common answers include...

Disclaimer:- Children love climbing, and (almost) any area in the forest will provide suitable entertainment.

The Trois Pignons forest is situated on sandy ground and some of the trails are difficult with pushchairs. It will make a big difference to your enjoyment if your children are capable of walking or if you are carrying them in. Children are fickle and can like or dislike an area for reasons completely unconnected with climbing.

Many circuits start off friendly enough but quickly become difficult to follow if you are carrying a lot of stuff. A lot of circuits date back many year and are not really suitable for crash-pads due to the amount of time spent retrieving them. Running entire circuits in many areas is something that is best suited to solo or small groups climbing. Places that are commonly recommended to avoid when you've family/young kids in tow are...

* Bas Cuvier - What's in the sand your kids are digging in? The areas close to the parking should be treated with care.

* Gorges du Apremont - With the exception of the Bizons area mentioned above the main area is very difficult to navigate alone, with kids, pushchairs and picnic baskets it quickly becomes a nightmare.

#### Recommended Problems

Because of the potential for lists of recommended problems to be very long and overshadow the content of areas across the whole of France a new page on Recommended Font Problems collates such information.

### Targassonne

Granite bouldering in the foothills of the Pyrennes in the South of France.

### Tralenta

Alpine bouldering, a topo was online some time ago and is mirrored here.

## Weather

France is big, the weather will depend on where you are and the time of year.

## Guides

**Argenton**

**Brittany**

**Fontainebleau**

Fontainebleau Climbs: The Finest Bouldering and Circuits by *Jo Montchausse*, *Francoise Montchausse*, *Jacky Godoffe*. Translated by *Sue Harper*

Fontainebleau Magique: Bouldering Guidebook by *David Atchison-Jones*

Essential Fontainebleau: A Stone Country Bouldering Guide by *J.S. Watson'*

Escalade "hors-pistes" à Fontainebleau, 6 et + by  *Jacky Godoffe* and *Jo & Françoise Montchaussé*

Bleau de grès 6 by *Dominique et Jean-Jacques Naëls*

7 + 8 by *Bart van Raaij*

Au Grès des Trois Pignons by *Dominique et jean-Jacques Naels*

**Lodève**

**Gorge du Tarn**

Topo Tarn/Jonte/Dourbie

**Tralenta**

Topo Tralenta (v1.2)

## Links

**Argenton**

Les blocs de la piste d'Argenton

**Brittany**

**Fontainebleau**

Bleau.info

**Lodève**

Lodève

**Targassonne**

Targabloc

Le French Glendo - Targassonne