Clothing

WORK IN PROGRESS. MORE TO BE ADDED

## **Introduction**

To establish clothing guidelines for the ASOIAF universe, one cannot simply look solely to historical precedent. Although Martin borrows heavily from history, mainly High Medieval Europe, this is still a fantasy world with its own rules and its own cultures. Therefore, while these guidelines do rely on historical precedent to fill in any gaps left by Martin, they should not be interpreted as works of historical study.

This guide does not seek to introduce a strict set of rules on what one’s clothes must or must not be. Rather, it is intended as a set of guidelines that are broad enough to still allow for creativity, without causing anachronisms which damage immersion and faithfulness to canon (i.e. mini-dresses, modern suits, stuff like that). Anyone playing this game should desire to remain faithful to the canon from which it’s drawn. If not, then I don’t know why you’re here at all.

## **Men’s Apparel**

### **Smallclothes**

Men’s smallclothes generally take the form of a pair of linen, cotton, or silk breeches tailored with comfort in mind. These breeches can vary in length, resembling modern men’s underwear or reaching down to the knees, depending on what else is being worn over them. Commoners performing manual labor might strip down to their shirts and breeches (thus favoring the longer variety) for added comfort in the heat, and to protect their more valuable outer garments.

### **Shirt**

After smallclothes, a man’s shirt is generally the second layer of their apparel. The shirt can be simple or complex in its tailoring, made of linen (for most), cotton, or silk. It will usually be long-sleeved, and is usually long enough to reach a few inches above the knees (or even longer). A shirt is kept plain, in regards to tailoring/materials, since this is a function-focused garment meant to protect the outerwear from perspiration and grime from the skin. As such, it and the smallclothes are usually the only garments that will be frequently and thoroughly washed.

### **Leggings**

Leggings are essentially heavy-duty stockings which cover almost the entire leg. They can be worn in place of breeches, or in addition to them (especially in cold weather). When worn in place of breeches, as outerwear, they are affixed to one’s smallclothes for support. Leggings are ideal for those wearing longer tunics and/or robes, as breeches may prove encumbering and unneeded. They may also be desired by commoners, who can remove them easily for manual labor.

### **Breeches (Trousers)**

Distinguished from smallclothes. Outerwear breeches my come in a variety of styles, trims, materials, etc. They can be worn in place of leggings, or in addition to them (especially in cold weather). Breeches are generally prefered when wearing short tunics, or no tunic, as leggings may not provide enough coverage/protection without a long garment.

### **Tunic**

The tunic is a universal garment for men, often acting as the base layer of one’s proper ‘outfit’. A tunic may be long (reaching to the ankles, even) or short (only a few inches below the waste). Tunics, like shirts, are generally long-sleeved (bare arms aren’t very dignified, and while you can roll up your sleeves in summer, you can’t grow them out in winter). While a tunic is essentially standard in almost every ASOIAF culture, it may be skipped, in which case the man’s shirt acts as outerwear (but with a jerkin or surcoat still over it). Keep in mind that this style would require a man to be wearing breeches to tuck his shirt into, and would be considered quite informal.

NOTE: A long tunic (reaching past the knees) can also be referred to as a "cotte", like the simple style of women's gown. The garments are essentially the same, with the woman's cotte being longer (ankle-length, roughly).

### **Doublet**

A doublet is an alternative to the tunic, that seems to be worn in Westeros and by young men in some of the Free Cities (namely Braavos and possibly Pentos). It is a short waistcoat usually made of heavier materials like wool, possibly reinforced with leather. This is due to its origins as a piece of clothing worn under plate armor. It is usually worn with breeches because of its lack of serious coverage beyond the waistline, but can also be worn with leggings and a codpiece. A doublet seems to be a garment associated mostly with young fighting men, it seems unlikely that a lord or king would wear a doublet, unless as part of their battle attire.

### **Surcoat**

A surcoat is an outer garment that can be worn over a man’s tunic (or shirt, if not wearing a tunic). A surcoat may be sleeved or sleeveless, and of varying lengths, though it is usually long, or as long as the tunic worn under it. Surcoats are made of heavier, more durable material most of the time, such as leather or wool.

### **Jerkin**

A jerkin is an outer garment that can be worn over a man’s tunic (or shirt, if not wearing a tunic), and may be worn over a surcoat as well. Jerkins in ASOIAF are usually made of leather, but we can presume that other hardy materials are used in their construction too.

### **Robes**

Simple enough. Long sleeve generally, and ankle-length. May be worn open or closed, depending on the style. Men wearing robes will usually prefer leggings and long tunics beneath, though some robes may replace the roll of a tunic. Robes are usually the most comfortable kind of outerwear, and will be preferred by those who spend most of their time in castles, or in very hot climates where you don’t want things to ‘cling’ too much. This makes them the preferred outerwear of most Dornish nobles.

### **Cloak/Mantle**

Whenever a man is outdoors, or in a relatively formal setting (with maybe Dorne and Essosi cultures being an exception) he will almost always be wearing a cloak or mantle. These can be heavy or light in their materials, depending on climate, and are often richly embroidered with a man’s colors, and possibly their sigil. The style in most ASOIAF cultures is for men (especially lords) to have broad, dignified shoulders, and a cloak adds to that aesthetic where simply wearing a tunic/surcoat/jerkin does little to help it.

## **Women’s Apparel**

### **Smallclothes**

Women’s smallclothes are actually quite similar to men’s, in fact they are usually identical, at least on this side of the narrow sea. A pair of linen breeches, short or long (with ‘long’ usually meaning down to the knees). Breast-coverings (which is to say, garments specifically intended to cover and support a woman’s breasts) are not common in ASOIAF, but they do exist. These would also be considered a part of a woman’s smallclothes, and may be as simple as a length of fabric, or more purpose-tailored garments. Women may wear a breast-covering/binding if they are nursing, wearing clothing that calls for one, or to give the appearance of a smaller bust.

### **Shift**

The shift is the female equivalent of a man’s shirt. It will almost always be ankle-length, though some may only fall to the knees. It is usually long-sleeved, but may be sleeveless (especially with gowns that leave exposed arms, shoulders, cleavage, etc). This garment has a number of names (‘undersilk’ is used in ASOS, and there are probably others in canon), but ‘shift’ is pretty universal. It resembles the modern concept of a nightgown, being essentially a long, loose gown without a waist seam. A shift is kept plain, in regards to tailoring/materials, since this is a function-focused garment meant to protect the outerwear from perspiration and grime from the skin. As such, it and the smallclothes are usually the only garments that will be frequently and thoroughly washed.

### **Underskirt**

An ‘underskirt’ may be worn as an alternative to a shift, or in addition to one. This is a knee- or ankle-length skirt that hangs off the waist, rather than a full-body garment. An underskirt may be worn with gowns that a full shift would interfere with (such as Qartheen gowns, where one breast is exposed). It may also be preferred in Dorne and certain Free Cities, where a full shift may clash with the lighter, airier fashions of outerwear. An underskirt may be worn in addition to a shift as well, providing an extra layer for modesty or protection from the elements. Wearing an underskirt (and not a shift) would probably call for an additional breast-covering garment, since most gowns are either made of strong materials that would irritate sensitive skin, or thin materials that would prove overly ‘revealing’.

### **Stockings**

Women have the benefit of long skirts, so their stockings aren’t as heavy-duty as men’s leggings. They also vary in length, ranging from knee-high to the full length of the leg. Keep in mind that in medieval Europe, and presumably in the majority of ASOIAF cultures, bare legs are not considered appropriate for a woman, especially if she’s of the nobility.

### **Breeches**

From time to time, women may find themselves wearing breeches. This is usually for practical purposes (wearing armor, riding a horse, etc) though some cultures, such as the Dothraki, consider this normal. Note that women who opt for breeches will usually still have some kind of covering (gown, long tunic, etc) over them, as showing the full contour of a woman’s legs is improper in most ASOIAF cultures. Wearing breeches as outerwear should be rare.

### **Gown**

Westerosi gowns can be thought of as fitting into one of two categories; kirtles and cottes. These terms are somewhat anachronistic (though ‘kirtle’ is used in canon), since they are both synonyms for ‘gown’. However, since ASOIAF bridges the entire medieval era, we must distinguish between the earlier and later styles of women’s gown. The ‘kirtle and cotte’ distinctions are just for the sake of this guide. Both styles can be referred to as ‘gowns’ in your writing.

A **cotte** gown is a simple garment that is similar in concept to a tunic. It can simply be pulled over the head, which is allowed for by the wide opening at the top, which is secured shut by a broach or since pair of laces in order to form a neckline. The cotte gown is long sleeved and ankle-length, and requires a shift or underskirt beneath it. This can also be referred to as a ‘simple gown’. It is likely favored in Dorne, since it can be made light, loose, and airy. Since they lack a bodice, these gowns are usually paired with a belt or sash/girdle at the waist, to give definition to the woman’s figure.

A **kirtle** gown consists of three main parts. Skirt, bodice, and sleeves. The skirt is always ankle-length, with very few exceptions. The bodice covers the torso, and is permanently attached to the skirt. It can be high- or low-cut, form-fitting (loosely or tightly), and closed by laces or buttons on the front, back, or sides of the bodice. Sleeves are always long, and are often detachable from the rest of the gown, allowing interchanging of styles or simply exposing the sleeves of one’s shift. This is the more fashionable style of gown in Westeros, especially in the courts of the south.
Gowns in the styles of the Free Cities (especially Lys and Volantis) may be sleeveless, light garments that do not require a full shift underneath. Certain Westerosi fashions may be similar, particularly Dornish gowns. Keep in mind, however, that less coverage isn't always desirable in an arid climate like Dorne. They likely favor cotte-style gowns made of light materials, which provide coverage against the sun and dust without being too stuffy.

### **Surcoat**

A woman's surcoat is often the primary outer/formal wear of their overall outfit. It may by sleeveless, or feature sleeves of varying lengths. It might act to complement the gown being worn, or overshadow it. In any case, women (throughout most of Westeros, aside from maybe some parts of Dorne) will usually wear a surcoat as part of their formal wear, or might wear one as part of their everyday attire. A surcoat is usually made of heavier materials than a cotte or kirtle, and is often decorated ornately with embroidering, jewels, and fur.

### **Robes**

Same rules as those for men’s robes. May be worn over the gown (or gown and surcoat), opened or closed.

### **Mantle/Cloak**

Same rules as those for men’s mantles/cloaks.