Obu

**Obu** [装; おぶ] is a catch-all term for traditional Kantonese garments, particularly robes and gowns, which once constituted as everyday attire for the people of Kanton. Obu may be translated as 'robe' or 'dress', though it is more accurate to use the word 'clothing'. The common obu garment is a wrapped-front garment with voluminous sleeves and a knee- or ankle-length hemline, worn with the left side wrapped over the right side. Traditionally, obu is worn with a long, broad sash known as san, and is commonly paired with wooden sandals (*kaga*).

Obu garments are traditionally made from fabrics such as silk and cotton, and in the modern day, they are often only worn to formal events such as weddings, funerals and ceremonies.

## Textiles and fabrics

Both obu and san are commonly made from either silk or cotton, although the latter can sometimes be made of a heavier fabric such as linen tweed. Formal obu are almost always made from silk or even satin, and are usually heavily embroidered or decorated with bright images, patterns and flairs.

During the 1950s and 1960s, casual cotton obu became increasingly popular and common, along with thinner san which would often have a width of only an inch or two. Fibres such as rayon were widespread during the 1940s, being inexpensive to produce and buy, and typically featuring printed designs. In the 1980s, experimental fabric combinations saw the introduction of leather and wool to the obu, often with drastic reductions to the length of sleeves, skirts and san. During this period, however, Western clothing became increasingly popular, and the obu was eventually left behind as a traditionalist garment.

Modern obu are widely available in cheap fabrics such as polyester, cotton and imitation silk.

## Types of obu

### Formality

Obu range in variation from extremely formal to very casual in style. The formality of a robe is determined mostly by its length, its volume (the amount of material used) and the intricacy of its patterns/embroidery. Slim-fitting, knee-length robes of dull, monochromatic fabric are considered the most informal. Conversely, ankle-length, full-skirted robes with long, wide sleeves and bright, detailed motifs are considered to be very formal, and were once a significant symbol of status and wealth.

### Common obu

Typical obu outfits will consist of up to four layers, and five different pieces. Some outfits, particularly those worn in religious ceremonies, may require the assistance of a dresser if the wearer is inexperienced or does not know how to tie their san correctly. Most obu tailors (known as *sōja*] also work as hairdressers and stylists; in recent years many have begun to offer make-up services too.

Choosing an appropriate type of obu requires discernation and knowledge of its symbolism. Many are inclined to reach for the most flashy and eye-catching robes without understanding the significance of the garment. For example, a heavy silk or satin fabric may appear as expensive and luxurious, but in actuality it is only found in robes used for religious rituals or ceremonies (bisō) and therefore considered quite inappropriate for a wedding.

#### Tōbu

Tōbu (literally, 'house-robe') are casual cotton obu that were traditionally worn indoors, typically in one's own home. In modern times, tōbu are the acceptable type of obu to wear for any outdoor event or occasion, such as a festival, social gathering, or leisure activity such as hinamachi. Historically, tōbu were also provided to guests staying at a *yoto*. From the 1970s onwards, tōbu became mostly mass-produced, manufactured in bright colours and cheap materials. Notably, the san worn with one's tōbu is very thin and much shorter than other types. This is to ensure both comfort and ease of movement.

#### Yoisō

Yoisō are seasonally-oriented garments whose colours correspond to the season they are made to be worn during. Winter robes are often made of thicker fabrics, with greys, blues, and other cool tones being utilised. Summer and spring robes are much lighter, slightly shorter in length and comprise of rich pinks, purples, greens and white. Autumn robes are usually varying shades of brown, ochre and orange, often with black accents.

Traditionally, yoisō were only worn by the upper-classes, who could afford to change their wardrobes every few months. The word *yoisha*, now used to describe a snob or arrogant person, is a shortening of *yoisōsha*, meaning 'one who wears yoisō'.

#### Mussō

Mussō, meaning 'dark robes', are monochromatic, simply-cut robes which can be worn by either gender, more commonly by men. Often dyed with dull colours such as dark blue, brown, burgundy or dark grey, the aim of the mussō is to attract attention with the depth and richness of the garment's colour, while remaining an inexpensive garment to wear out and about.

#### Bisō

Bisō are garments of religious significance which can only be worn during a ritual, ceremony or temple visit. They may also be worn through a long period of worship. Uniquely, bisō can only be bought in either white or black - white for men, and black for women. Accents of red and gold are common. These garments are always made of heavy silk or satin, and are very expensive. The hemline of a bisō robe is also very long, surpassing the soles of one's kaga, and hovering an inch or so from the ground.

#### Iobu

Iobu are monochromatic white wedding robes worn by both bride and groom for a traditional wedding ceremony. Comparable to a funeral robe in its simplicity and instantly recognisable style, iobu has a long, voluminous skirt, often decorated with lace, and layered sleeves. The accompanying san is either silver or gold - traditionally, the groom wears the gold sash and the bride wears silver. A white overcoat or takabe is worn by the groom.

The white of these robes is thought to symbolise a fresh beginning. The gold sash signifies good luck, prosperity and financial security; a silver sash symbolises fidelity, trust and clarity. Due to their expensiveness, iobu are traditionally handed down through generations.

#### Kussō

Kussō are monochromatic black funeral robes worn by anybody attending a traditional funeral ceremony. The body of the deceased in also dressed in a near-identical garment called *jonzō* ('death robe'). This type of obu is plain and simplistic in design, with no accents, embroidery, or patterns. The skirt reaches to the ankles, but the sleeves are extremely long and wide, often surpassing the wrists and reaching down to the wearer's knees.

Kussō are almost always passed down through generations. This is because it is considered extremely unlucky to purchase new funeral robes.

#### Kōbu

Kōbu are traditional maternity robes worn by pregnant women during pregnancy and through the process of childbirth. They are almost identical to tōbu in their design, and may come in virtually any colour. However, they are easily identified by the fact that the san is worn through loops inside the kōbu and tied around the hips through a slit in the back of the robe. The visual symbolism of this opening is probably intentional, although it is also more comfortable for the mother.

The use of this robe varies from region to region; in some parts of Kanton the kōbu was burned after birth as an impure object, while in other parts the robes are passed down through families. If a mother died in her kōbu (something quite common in past centuries), she was to be buried in it.