The Shanghai: end of an era - Chinese Voice (1997, February 5) City Voice, 4

## The Shanghai: end of an era

MANY will be saddened to see the old Shanghai Cafe at the corner of Taranaki St and Courtenay Place in ruins.

Unchanged for nearly 50 years, for many the Shanghai was an institution. The first Chinese restaurant in Wellington to provide Chinese food for the non-Chinese, it famous for its Ching dynasty decor - all red, green and gold with plastic Chinese lanterns. To suit its European customers it served dinner with a side plate of buttered bread, and the tea it served was as strong as its Railways-strength cups.

It had a menu nearly as long as the Great Wall which consisted of variations on a few well-tried dishes: chow mein, fried rice, chop suey, egg foo young, and for connoisseurs — sweet and sour pork and lemon chicken. Dessert was canned lychees and ice cream.

This style of food was a deliberate compromise, blending east and west to meet the tastes of its clientele who could also order steak, eggs and chips.

Earlier Chinese restaurants were small and humble, usually located in Haining St and serving only basic fare to Chinese workers and visitors to Wellington. The Shanghai, which opened in 1948, was large, served Europeans and was located in busy Courtenay Place.

The original owners were Ng Soon Wah and Joe Lai Choy - the latter a well-known figure in town. He owned the Yuen Tung shop on the corner of Haining and Tory Streets and was known as the “king of Haining St.”

Because he was a man of influence in both the European and Chinese communities, all the important Wellingtonians of the day attended the opening of the Shanghai. In 1951 Choy left the partnership and started the Hong Kong Restaurant in Taranaki St and by the mid-60’s there were at least 10 such restaurants in Wellington including the Dragon, Kowloon, Great Wall, and Cathay. However, none could rival the Shanghai for size, class and sophistication, and for 30 years it was the best Chinese restaurant in Wellington by far.

The Shanghai was owned by Ng Soon Wah and his son Thomas Carr Yam Ng until 1956 when it was sold to a cousin Humphrey Ng who ran it until 1972 when it passed into the hands of in-laws of the family KK and Kit Har Yen.

In all, three generations of children grew up in the restaurant, riding their bikes among the diners, playing in the kitchen and later tending the till. The Ngs and the Yens grew up with their customers, who were regulars for decades. The Shanghai was popular with the Chinese community, being a meeting place and the venue for mahjong.

Humphrey Ng started a tradition for hand made wonton and noodles and people travelled for miles just for a bowl of its famous wonton soup.

Later a new style of restaurant appeared on the scene: the Lotus, the Yangtse, the Jasmin and the Jade Garden which served an “authentic” style of cooking. Later the wave of new Chinese immigrants brought even more change - yum char style eating, regional cooking and specialised cuisines. But the Shanghai always had its niche and a loyal clientele.

However the Shanghai never owned its own site and last year became a victim of the boom in inner city apartments. It closed on 29 Dec and with it closed a chapter of local Chinese history.

A new Shanghai will open in March further along in Manners St. The Shanghai is dead -long live the Shanghai!

1. ↑ Chinese Voice. (1997, February 5). *City Voice*, 4. https://wellington.recollect.co.nz/nodes/view/7346

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