Intro to Chainmail

> **"Chainmail is directly responsible for the unity this chapter has over its competitors. It started the ancient Antioch tradition of a forge night."**
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> **-Derath**
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### Intro

Chainmail is the first style of armor to ever appear in the Verdish Empire. It offers excellent tier protection, and can be expected to continue serving the empire long after it's original creators have moved on.

Depending on material choice, this can be one of the cheapest ways to establish a suit of armor. Although I feel it best to warn you immediately that chainmail is very time consuming. However most of the labor does not require extreme attention and can be done while watching television or doing other passive activities!

### Picking Your Materials

    Material choice is often the most important part of beginning chainmail. Each material has distinct properties such as **Cost**, **Strength**, **Maintenance**, and **Weight**.

Not all materials are created equal and it is important to note that not every material we use is acceptable for a main armor component. For example, even though we make use of aluminum *(rank chains, connectors, etc.)*, it is not acceptable to construct armor from aluminum.

Consider what the following properties mean before you continue:

* **Cost** is pretty self explanatory: Materials aren't free! Some materials, such as titanium are actually about ten times more expensive than common materials!
* **Strength** generally refers to the armor's ability to withstand damage. In the context of chainmail this also means that the armor will not pull itself apart! An interesting principle of strength is that it allows you to use smaller gauge rings to cut down on overall weight of the armor. Materials such as stainless, high carbon steel, and titanium are allowed to use 16 gauge wire instead of 14 gauge. *(Gauge refers to the thickness of the wire used. The larger the number is, the smaller the wire is. So 14g is thicker than 16g. Check the next section for a more in-depth explanation)*
	+ So you may be asking, How do I know how strong a material is? Well there's a lot more to it than this, but an easy introduction is to look at the KSI potential *(kilopounds per square inch)*. Materials with a KSI lower than 100 are often too weak to use wire gauges thinner than 14g. If you attempt to use weak materials in armor, **they will pull-apart under their own weight.**
* **Maintenance** is one of the most important (and often overlooked) aspects of armor. If you're unfamiliar with armor maintenance, it's pretty simple: some armors rust and will need periodic care to maintain armor integrity, appearance, and sometimes safety. While other materials may not rust, they will tarnish over time and require some cleaning. I personally recommend making your armor out of materials that require the least amount of maintenance. Galvanized steel is the most economical option but some fighters have opted for stainless.
* **Weight**, like cost is also self-explanatory. However weight of material can sometimes be misleading. For example, galvanized steel fencing wire (from Tractor Supply) is not strong enough to make reliable armor in gauges smaller than 14g. So you cannot make lighter, thinner-wire, shirts from it. Where high-carbon rings could be thinner and overall lighter!

### Material Overviews

This is in no way the only materials out there. It is desperately beyond the scope of an introduction to even scratch the surface of material diversity. That being said, the Empire has been using the following styles for years:

#### **Galvanized Steel (Fencing Wire)**

This material is dirt cheap comparatively to other wires it offers the easiest access to materials and is still the most common form of metal used in chain armor. It does not rust but it's normal for this steel to tarnish into a dull gray.

However, it does come with some drawbacks! The steel is not hard. If we attempt to use wires thinner than 14g, it rips itself apart under its own weight. We're not 100% sure of the base steel material used in this wire, but it seems to be roughly equivalent to brass. (It is important to note that the wire thickness on fencing wire can fluctuate anywhere between 1.9-2mm)

Looks authentic
Little/no maintenance
Easy to work with
Doesn't come in black
Can't buy finished rings

While not the first material ever used in Verdish armor. It was the first material cheap enough to warrant mass production! It is important to credit Aimias with this innovation. He is directly responsible for the first true Verditian industry.

#### **Galvanized Steel**

*(100 ksi)*

The Empire also has access to galvanized steel made from much more reliable materials. These materials are less likely to pull-apart under normal use. Experimentation with thinner wire rings have not been extensive. Although it is believed that the 100 ksi armor class could potentially handle it.

 Little/no maintenance
 Looks authentic

#### **Mild Steel**

*(100 ksi)*

Mild/carbon steel is probably one of the most authentic materials you can use for your armor.

But something you have to be careful of is what kind of steel grade this 'steel' is. The stuff you'd find at your local hardware store is likely to be annealed mild steel and will be too weak to be used as armor. You'll want to make sure that you acquire metal with the correct properties for armor. A minimal of 100ksi *(kilopounds per square inch)* temper is what you're really looking for!

While this can be one of the strongest and most authentic materials you can acquire, it comes with equally authentic maintenance attention. These steels rust quickly and if not properly oiled and stored, will require lots of work to get back into acceptable conditions.

Authentic
Significantly stronger than fencing wire
Buy finished rings
Hard to find in black

#### **High-Carbon Steel**

*(200-250 ksi)*

Mild/carbon steel is probably one of the most authentic materials you can use for your armor. The first Antioch armor was created from blackened high-carbon steel (200-250ksi temper) and is still surviving today with no signs of slowing down.

While this can be one of the strongest and most authentic materials you can acquire, it comes with equally authentic maintenance attention. These steels rust quickly and if not properly oiled and stored, will require lots of work to get back into acceptable conditions.

Using high-carbon steel would also allow for thinner wire construction.

Authentic
Can use thinner wire
Buy finished rings
Requires regular maintenance
Hard to find in black

#### **Stainless Steel**

*(125 ksi)*

Stainless is probably one of the best materials you can use for armor construction. It has virtually no maintenance at all and is quite strong. With stainless you could very easily use thinner wire to cut down on overall weight.

Can use thinner wire
Buy finished rings
Little/no maintenance

#### **Blackened Stainless**

*(125 ksi)*

Blackened Stainless is the ultimate metal for retaining black coloring in your armor. Even after heavy abuse the armor stays black and is surprisingly resistant to chipping (compared to painting armor). Blackened stainless is the main chain component on modern crucible gusoku armors. Like stainless you could very easily use thinner wire to cut down on overall weight. (it is fair to note that we are powder-coating our standard stainless for samurai armors)

Can use thinner wire
Buy finished rings
Little/no maintenance
Can't buy blackened wire

#### **Spring Stainless**

*(200-250 ksi)*

Spring stainless takes all the positive attributes of stainless and adds the hardness of high-carbon steel. This is likely the ultimate armor in terms of being obtainable by most within the Empire. Spring stainless is difficult to work with because it does not want to bend into shape!

Can use thinner wire
Buy finished rings
Little/no maintenance
Hard to work with (strong)
Doesn't come in black

#### **Titanium**

*(130 ksi)*

Titanium is not only strong, it's incredibly light! The metal itself requires almost no maintenance. The only reason its not seen more commonly in the empire because of its extreme cost. Titanium for the time being is mostly being used for its decorative anodized versions. Creating reliable decoration that also holds up as armor.

The empire hopes to create a full titanium armor to bring about the first "Kelm Class Armor"

40% the weight of steel
Can use thinner wire
Buy finished rings
Comes in red, blue, gold, etc.
Little/no maintenance
Doesn't come in black
Hard to work with (strong)

#### **Aluminum**

*(60 ksi)*

Aluminum is used mostly for rank chains in the Empire. With it's anodized finishes it can create a wide range of vibrant colors.

Aluminum is used so infrequently/insignificantly in armors that it is almost not worth mentioning.

Buy finished rings
Available in black, red, blue, etc.
1/3 the weight of steel
Little/no maintenance
Very weak material

#### **Copper**

*(50 ksi)*

Copper has one purpose in armoring: Decoration. Unfortunately it requires some regular maintenance to keep vibrant. When used on armors the copper very quickly tarnishes to a dull brown.

Very weak material
Unsuitable for armor
Slightly heavier than steel
Requires maintenance

#### **Brass**

*(70 ksi)*

Brass, while mostly used as decoration, has been used in some armor construction. The material strength is roughly on par with fencing wire. It is important to note, that only upper command staff members may use brass in armoring because of its gold color.

More expensive than steel
Slightly heavier than steel
Requires some maintenance

#### **Bronze**

*(75-90 ksi)*

Bronze is a bit more reliable than brass is in terms of strength. However, it is usually not considered ideal for armor construction. In Verdite, you wouldn't be allowed to wear all natural bronze colored armor. But some armors have been trimmed in it.

Slightly heavier than steel
Requires maintenance

### Picking Your Ring Size

Once you've decided on a material then you need to take a moment to consider what size of ring you'll be using. For the basic weave that will be outlined in this guide, you'll be using a singular size of ring. (Japanese armors use multiple sized and shaped rings)

There are sizing systems out there for jewelers and armorers that can be a bit daunting at first. For this guide, we will focus on sizes that we've tested and used for decades.

#### **Understanding Ring Size Terminology**

Theres a couple term you need to get familiar with: Gauge and ID:

**Gauge** is a measurement system that tells you how thick the wire is. There are two common gauge systems: **SWG** (Standard Wire Gauge) and **AWG** (American Wire Gauge). Both systems are slightly different even though they use the same terminology. The Empire chooses to use SWG for casual explanation, but not all vendors are clear on what system they are using. As an armorer it is highly recommended to use the metric system to determine your needed specifics. Here is a quick chart explaining how thick common wires are on the different systems. You'll notice that SWG are thicker than AWG.

 19
 18
 16
 14

**ID**, or Inner Diameter, means the inner diameter of the ring. This is how you determine how large a ring is. The ID tends to be the same size as the rod used for chainmail coiling. Since we live in the United States, it's a bit of a hassle to attempt to get specialty rods made in metric specifics. So you'll often see imperial systems used for ID.

Identifying ring styles uses both **ID** and **gauge**. For example when saying '*14**g** 3/8" **ID***' This means that the wire is made of 14 gauge and the inner diameter (or **ID**) of the ring is 3/8". Again for casual use within the empire we are using the SWG system.

Sometimes you will see some kind of number labeled **AR** accompanying rings. This stands for **Aspect Ratio** and is helpful for classifying ring sizes for complex weaves. For this guide, AR is not important.

(NOTE TO SELF, TO LINK A GUIDE TO ASPECT RATIO HERE)

So now that you know what the terminology means... How do you know what kind of ring is strong enough to use?

Well... unfortunately there isn't much of a way to tell outside of experimentation and research. But lucky for you I've compiled some ring sizes that are most useful to the Verdish!

#### **Common Ring Sizes and their Use**

* **14g 3/8" ID** - This style of ring is considered 'normal' in the context of Verdish armoring. 14g wire is thick, strong, and extremely reliable. This should be your go-to for ring size. 14g 3/8" ID armors are by far the most common in the empire. They have stood the test of time, spanning multiple generations and decades of abuse. Trust me when I say, it will be the worst feeling in the world to put 80+ man hours into a shirt only to find out you chose a risky ring size. Play it safe and go 14g 3/8" ID.
* **16g 3/8" ID** - These rings are used **ONLY** with high-strength materials. They are most common in the samurai armors, where they are used to bridge divides at the wrist, and elbow.
	+ In order to use these in armor construction you have to get approval from a forge-master (Derath or Torrens). This is to ensure that people aren't making poor quality armor in the empire!
* **16g 1/4" ID** - These rings are mostly used in fancier armors that are attempting to create a sleeker and tighter weave. This weave is a lot more rigid than 14g 3/8" ID. It is also heavier as a whole.

While obviously other ring sizes are used in the Empire, they often fill more niche applications.

It is important for me to note that if at any point this information becomes unclear, you can always reach out to Torrens or myself (Derath) and we'll do the best we can to make sure your project gets underway without a future potential disaster!

### Making the Armor

What we'll be focusing on is a weave commonly called "European 4 in 1". This was by far the most commonly used weave throughout history. It's simple and able to be mass produced with community effort.

If you want to make your own rings, consult the following guide on "How to Make Your Own Chainmail Rings"

#### **The Basics Units**

You really only **need** two tools to make chain armor: a set of pliers. However some small bowls/containers can make life a little easier.

You'll be basically manufacturing 'parts' of the armor. There are 3 parts you need to be concerned with (Check the following gallery for examples of do's and don'ts):

**The Raw** - If we're being honest this isn't a part at all! But it's your base unit that you have to first modify. Rings that are freshly cut/bought come in this state.

**The Closed** - Closed rings are rings that you fully close. If you ran your finger across the break in the metal, you should not be able to feel the metal catch or scratch you. This is potentially the most important check you need to make on every single ring! The quality standard in Central-Verdite is simple... if you would feel safe dragging it across the most sensitive part of your body: Then it's of acceptable quality.

I cannot stress enough that if rings are improperly closed the armor will tear your skin open and shred you every time you put it on and take it off. Its **VERY** important that you do not forsake Verdish standards of quality when closing rings. I personally will never allow any fighter to wear armor that is jagged. It's incredibly dangerous not only to yourself but everyone around you!

**The Open** - Raw rings that have been opened slightly are called opens. Open rings mean an opening no greater than 40 degrees. If you make wide openings in the rings, you put unnecessary stress on the metal that weapons it so much that future breakage is actually possible!

**Example gallery**

The RawThe ClosedThe OpenedOpened way too muchImproperly ClosedYou'll need to make more closed than opens to start. Sometimes it's good practice to make hundreds of each, separating them into different bowls as you work. The only two units you need are Opens and Closed.

#### **The 4 in 1**

Your chainmail units are going to make the basic structure of the armor: the 4 in 1. This is accomplished by putting 4 closed rings onto an open ring. Then you close the open ring around the 4. This will make the mini structure you see here.

The 4 in 1 is another part that you will be mass producing. It is considered good practice to take all the opens and closed you have made and convert them into 4 in 1's.

Here are some images to help with creating four in ones:

Start with 4 closedPut them on an open ring. Then close the open ring.
#### **The Line**

4 in 1's are the sub-unit of a larger unit called '**the line**'. To make a line, you'll need multiple 4 in 1's. In empire mass production we usually make a line out of hundreds of 4 in 1's!

Once you have enough four in 1's, lay two of them in front of you. Lay them both flat, with the top two rings on one set laying on top of the bottom two rings of the second set as pictured below.

Open a ring (red) and put it through the eyes formed by the overlapping rings (blue), then close it. Hopefully you can see that what you're doing is making **a line of 4 in 1's.**

You can continue making this line by connecting subsequent 4 in 1's in the same fashion as above. When you do, your line will start to look a bit like this:

The line can continue for as long as you'd like really. Sometimes at forges we make lines that are 40 foot+ in length and then wrap it around a spool for future paneling (the next step discussed below!)

#### **The Panels**

Panels are the structure you get when you join two lines. Panels will then be joined together to make the basic shape of a shirt.

Once you have two lines you want to connect, lay them next to one another like this. Make sure all the rings are facing the same way:

Next, put a ring (red) through 4 other rings (blue), like so. It may be easy to visualize the lined up rings as a 4 in 1's that are missing their middle rings!

Once you have one ring started, check to make sure it's facing the same direction as the middle rings on the lines. If it is, then continue putting rings (red) all the way up the **seam**.

Hopefully you can see that the edge of a panel is the same edge as a line. So to continue expanding a panel you can either connect lines to it, or other panels themselves. Eventually you'll shape and connect panels into the form of your desired project. It is easiest to build square panels and connect those squares to get a rough shape.

At forge we tend to make a giant rectangle front piece and back piece (gray). Both are the same size. From there we build shoulder straps (red) and connect the front and back with them.

After that we construct two side panels (blue) to the desired width, attaching them to the side of the corresponding front and back panels.

I couldn't find any helpful images on it so here's a crude paint stand-in:

From this rough shape you can tailor it to your needs. At this rough stage it is quite often leaving too much of your neck, upper back, and below-armpit area too exposed. so extra work to close these gaps is likely the first area of concern.

When you are designing the panels, the weave needs to hang a certain way on your body. It needs to expand from side to side, not from top to bottom meaning. Your lines within panels should be horizontal. Like so:

Here's an example with arrows on the wrong way to have chainmail hang. The arrows show you that the lines are vertical, and thus incorrect and weak.

### Shapes of the Final Product

Something to consider when working on a future piece of armor is to see what other Verditians experienced over the years. There's a page here that talks about some drawbacks of certain shirt designs.

That being said you'll want to decide on some types:

* **Vest** - Vests only cover the torso and back. Sometimes they go as far to cover the buttocks and genitals. If they do extend for that, it is recommended to put a small slit up the sides roughly at your belt-line.
	+ A vest is almost the perfect armor. Meaning that there is no armor bite, and exhaustion is so minimal that it doesn't even compare to the problems other armors have. Vests are common in Insurrection Regalia styled armors and are favorites of red users.
* **Shirt** - Shirts extend down the arms roughly to the elbows. This style of armor will greatly interfere with your range of motion, but it will protect one of the most easily targeted areas on your body.
	+ It is possible to make sleeves that are very lose and less restrictive. This option is very much recommended!
* **Full Coverage Shirt** - Usually this means a shirt that also extends to the legs, or even all the way down the arms. Full coverage shirts are heavy and restrictive. But the balance is that you have greater armor coverage.
	+ When making leg protection, it is best to have a split at the front and back of the armor starting roughly at your belt-line. This will ensure that the armor does not impede your ability to walk.