Buying a used EX500

*For general information on buying any used bike, look at the Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide by Adam Glass. This is a classic guide and probably the best on the net.*

What the Kawasaki EX500 offers to its owners is bang for the buck. There are many faster and more technically sophisticated motorcycles on the market, but few that will match the performance and capability of the 500 for the price. Compared to its little brother the Ninja 250, the 500 offers significantly better performance at a similar price on the used market. It is also typically much cheaper than its big brother, the 650. If you don't mind the less-recent styling, the 500 offers its owners a great performance/$ ratio.

The 500 was designed for general use and to sell at a lower price point. As a result it is not equipped with more expensive features like an aluminum frame, cartridge forks or dual caliper brakes. It however still offers a decent level of performance that will exceed most riders skill levels. Its main attraction is it is a bike that is cheap to own and maintain and can commute, sport riding, and do limited touring. It is not really a master of any of these disciplines but is a capable all rounder at a budget price.

It has a sport-touring riding position which puts the rider forward like a sport bike but with slightly less lean for more comfort than all out race positioning. Bar risers can be added to make the seating position more upright and bearable for longer trips.

The 500 is a lightweight, agile motorcycle that is relatively easy to ride with no major vices at normal road speeds. Some riders may find the suspension is somewhat soft and under damped for aggressive sport riding although this can be easily modified. It offers decent power with good acceleration (12.4 seconds for the ¼ mile, and 4.3 seconds for 0 to 60 MPH according to a magazine review). It is light and forgiving enough to make an excellent first motorcycle but has enough performance to satisfy more experienced riders. It is this balance of price and performance that has given it one of the longest production runs of any motorcycle.

## Awards

Cycle World Magazine (February 2012 issue) featured the Kawasaki 500 in their monthly segment on recommended used bikes.

## Will it fit me? Will it be comfortable?

Check out how the 500 will fit you on Cycle-Ergo's interactive site.

## Generation 1 vs. Generation 2

There were two generations of this bike built: Generation 1 (1987-1993) and Generation 2 (1994-2009). See the Wikipedia link for more information.

### Issues specific to Generation 1 - 1987 to 1993 (identifiable by lack of vent holes in front fairing):

* the transmission can have a fault where the bike will pop into neutral while engine braking in second gear with this model
* the stator can loose magnets causing charging issues. You can replace this with Generation 2 engine parts, with minor modifications
* the original Generation 1 Cam Chain Tensioner was prone to failure. Kawasaki redesigned this for the Generation 2 bikes. The redesigned tensioner will fit the Generation 1 bikes. Replacing this can help prevent the serious engine damage that would result should the original tensioner fail.

## Things specific to the Kawasaki 500

* The only things that changed by year within a given Generation was the color. That is a Generation 2 bike from 2004 will be identical to a Generation 2 bike from 2009, so compare two bikes of the same generation by the condition and mileage, not the model year.

* You can check for warped brake rotors (not common) with a machined flat edge so try to bring one with you. This bike does not use floating rotors so removing the rotors from the wheels and re-installing will usually cause warping. Rotors left alone should not normally warp. Do not buy used brake rotors for this reason.

* Don't be too concerned about exhaust surface rust. The 500 uses painted steel exhaust pipes which attract rust more than the stainless steel pipes used on most motorcycles. Although this can look ugly, it is almost always just cosmetic and is a minor issue to fix with a wire brush and some high temperature header paint.

* A bike without a fairing or damaged fairing is worth less money. Fairing replacement can be very expensive. See Body work.

* In general avoid EX500s with more than ~30K miles/50K km although they will usually last much longer than this with good care. Some owners have rolled the odometer at 100,000km.

* See how the bike starts from cold. It should fire right up with the choke fully on even in the coldest of temperatures.

* Most starting and running issues are the result of a dirty or incorrectly adjusted carb. A bike that has been modified with pod filters will not run as well as a bike with the stock air box. Converting it back will likely run ~$50 in used parts and require some re-jetting of the carb. For general street use the engine runs smoothest and most reliably with the stock carbs, jets and air box. Unless you have special needs like track use, modifying these is not recommended.

* The chain condition can be a window into how the bike was maintained. It should be relatively clean, well lubricated and have about 1.5 inches of slack. If it is severely rusted or caked with dirt and grime or has a lot more slack than this, it is a sign the bike has been neglected. A chain and sprocket set will cost ~$170 to replace. They are normally replaced together. Has the valve adjustment and other scheduled maintenance been done?

* Tires will normally cost ~$100+ each to replace. There should be no cracks in the tires and sufficient tread. Tires should be replaced when the wear bars are the same depth as the tread, long before they go bald.

### Value of aftermarket "upgrades" [hyperlinks not copied over]

Ultimately the value of optional equipment (farkles) included with the bike depends on you the buyer. What accessories will you will find useful? How much will these cost to purchase separately? Consider the following....

* Modifications like aftermarket exhausts should not normally add much to the asking price as they do not add a significant performance gain over the dual stock exhausts. The same goes for jet kits - stock is usually more desirable and reliable.
* Most riders will find frame sliders desirable to prevent damage from accidental tip overs. These can cost between $50 to $200 new ($200 for B&R racing frame sliders or Rentech engine bars).
* Hard luggage or soft luggage may be desirable if you are going to use the bike for touring or commuting. Hard (lockable) luggage can be expensive to purchase separately. Check prices on-line.
* Upgraded mirrors - upgrading the ineffective stock mirrors will normally run $40+ to purchase separately and is a recommended upgrade for all 500 owners unless you have eyes in the back of your head and a transparent helmet
* Suspension modifications if done properly can make the 500 handle significantly better. For instance the common suspension upgrade path for the 500 of RaceTech cartridge emulators and aftermarket springs front and rear will cost $300 in parts plus installation. Add at least $150 to $200 to the value of the bike if this has been done. In some cases an Ohlins shock can be worth as much as the bike without it.
* An after market windshield will generally cost $70 new. Touring windshields can make the bike more comfortable on the highway.
* Handle bar risers make the seating possible more comfortable and run about $100 new.

## General advice

* The further afield you search the better the chance you have of locating a good deal. Adding the search criteria "site:craigslist.com" or "site:kijiji.ca" to a Google search (omitting the quotes but typing exactly as written) will have Google search all Craig's List or Kijiji ads from across the nation. Alternatively just click on the Advanced Search option on the Google search page to specify a domain to search. Looking at prices nationally should give you more insight into what is an average, good and bad price. U-Haul rents motorcycle trailers for ~$20 a day if you need a way to retrieve a recently purchased bike.

* Look for signs of accident damage. Has the bike been painted? Check the fork alignment. Is it a salvage title? Is there rash on the side of the engine or frame? Avoid an accident damaged bike unless you know what you are getting into.

* Does it have a valid government safety inspection? (Canada and other areas that require this). Make this a conditional part of the sale. It's not a deal to buy a bike and then find you have to replace tires, lights and cables for it to be certified road worthy. Consider having your local Kawasaki dealer inspect the bike prior to purchase if you do not feel confident doing it yourself.

* Does the owner have clear title to the motorcycle? Do not buy a motorcycle where clear title is not available.

* Motorcycle prices can vary by region. Determine what is a fair base price in your area by checking the Kelley Blue Book value and adjusting upward slightly for regional price differences. Average asking prices in the classifieds are almost always higher than the average sale price. Make a post on this forum to help determine if the bike is a good deal or not.

### Importing to Canada

Importing a Motorcycle to Canada - If you are Canadian compare the cost and extra effort of importing from the US with local prices. There can be a cost savings with purchasing in the US depending on the current exchange rate, however for a cheaper motorcycle like a used 500 it may not be enough to overcome the extra cost of transport and $200 RIV fee.