Props Tools of The Trade

Please note this page contains affiliate links to my favourite versions of the tools listed.

### EDC (Every Day Carry)

* Pen
* Sharpie
* Flashlight
* Knife
* Multitool
* Gloves
* Hand Sanitizer
* Ear piece

### Belt, Chest pack or Leg Bag (on-set)

(Further useful items to carry depending on day's work)

* Picquic screwdriver
* small tin of snot
* clear elastics
* c-wrench
* lighter
* cloth
* safety pins
* zip ties
* Olfa knife
* Phone charger

### Tools for Buyers

* Notebook and pens
* Cell charger
* Physical map book

### Useful tools for the Truck and Lockup

The props truck shouldn't be where props are build, but should be equipped to repair items, or Macgyver something together on the fly. The lockup may be used to build some or modify some simple props. Below is a list of the more common tools that get used on a props truck and in a lockup.

# Tools

EDIT

Here is a list of some of the commonly used tools for the props department. There are two schools of thought when looking to buy tools. One is that you just get the best available because chances are, it will last longer and save you time and energy by doing the job better. The other school of thought, that Mythbuster, Adam Savage recommends is that you buy an inexpensive tool first and that if you use it enough that you break it and see it's worth, you then buy the best available. No one school of advice will be better for all tools, but if it's something that you will be using often, do your research and get the best you can afford.

##### **Adjustable Wrench**

Also Called a C-Wrench , Crescent wrench, or adjustable spanner in the UK, these wrenches are able to adjust to a variety of different bold head sizes. This is a good tool to keep in an on-set props kit, and to have a few sizes of on the props truck. It's rarely something you'd need to carry on your person like someone it the lighting department would, but there are days, dealing with bikes or a lot of license plates, that it may come in handy to have with you. There are many different pocket wrenches that can work in a pinch that may be worth carrying on your tool belt or in a chest pack.

##### **Belt sander**

When I first saw one of these go onto a props truck I guffawed at it's usefulness compared to its size--I figured anything it could do I could do with a file that would take up less space. I was proven wrong the more I got to use it. The one we had was a combination disc and belt sander that sat on a work bench. I've since purchased one and use it all the time. Its primary use is for dulling knives as it is easier to do more delicate work than flap wheel on an angle grinder. It's been useful for rounding the corners on certain props to give them a bit of wear and tear, and for reshaping the odd thingamabob. For those looking for a smaller solution, there are power files available, which are hand-held belt sanders. You would then mount the file or the item you're sanding in a vise.

##### **Bench Vice**

Having a bench vice on the props truck is important. Some can be screwed/bolted to a workbench while others can clamp on. A bench vise will be useful for holding items as you work on them and sometimes for pushing two things together or straitening an item. There are many tasks that are much safer to do when the item you're working on is securely held in place.

##### **Bike Pump**

If you can swap out all of your tires for flat-free (foam filled) tires you should. A flat tire on a cart or dolly will slow you down and aggravate you. For the tires you can't swap out, a bike pump is a necessary tool for the props truck, and possibly even a smaller one on set if your on-set cart tires need air. Bike pumps, with the proper adapters can also be used to pump up sports balls or inflatable items. There are also small paint/liquid sprayers that can be recharged/pumped up with a bike pump. If you have a cordless tool system, look into an electric one, or if you do airbrushing or other air tools, a small air compressor may be valuable, but a well-made manual pump will work just fine.

##### **Calipers**

For measuring props, calipers come in very handy. Digital calipers take some of the skill out of reading, and can easily convert between imperial and metric.

##### **Camera**

The days of needing a camera on set are dwindling as all current phones now how great cameras on them and everyone has a phone. Cellphone cameras are great for continuity as they give you the ability to label and organize the photos in the device. There may be times where a cellphone camera is not ideal. I will often keep a rugged, waterproof camera on the props truck for use by day-calls, or for scenarios where the weather or working conditions would not be kind on a traditional smartphone.

##### **Canned Air**

For clearing dust off of props or camera lenses, canned air very handy. This can come in ready to go cans, or with a reusable metal nozzle that gets screwed onto refill cans. Camera trucks often have nitrogen tanks on them to allow for a more environmental and budget friendly version. Every once in a while there's been the need to rapidly cool something, or to put a bit of frost on a prop. While there are freeze spray products specifically available for this, if you turn a can of canned air upside-down you will bet a burst of super-chilled gas (this also means you need to use it as a duster when it's upright).

##### **Clamps**

There are many types of clamps that are used to hold many type of things together. Pony clamps, also called spring clamps are commonly used to hold tarps down or hold things together as glue is drying. Clothes pegs (or c-47's as they are sometimes called in the industry) can be used to hold smaller items, or taken apart to use as small wedges, flipped around to create tweezers, or they can hold something while working on it to keep your fingers safe. It's handy to have a couple C-Clamps and adjustable clamps in the kit but the need for anything too large is rare.

##### **Corner Punch**

A corner punch is a crafting tool used to round the corners of paper props. It can make certain props look more professional like they are die-cut. It can also help to make ID badges look better. Sometimes it's great to cut corners !

##### **Craft knife / Olfa**

This is a commonly used item for the props department as we create paper props or cut vinyls for greeking. There are lots of different kinds, but often simplicity is better. Tips: Safely snap and dispose of your blades often to keep your cutting blade sharp. Always close your blade when done. Cut away from yourself and use a cutproof glove if you plan on doing a lot of cutting. When using a ruler to cut a straight line, put the ruler on the side you want to preserve, so that if you slip, you've not ruined your project.

##### **Dremmel / Rotary Tool**

A Dremel is a very useful tool for props. It can be used for standing small items, carving things into different shapes, cutting rings in a pinch, drilling small holes, cutting odd shape holes, or polishing metal. I am a big fan of a now discontinued model know as the stylus. It's battery powered and ergonomic. A battery powered one is handy, but useless if it's dead so a corded backup that can handle heavier tasks is a good idea. Look for Dremel's quick connect sets, they save time and frustration.

##### **Drill**

A cordless drill comes in handy from time to time for drilling holes or driving screws. Look for one that has adjustable torque for some of the finer work the props department sometimes needs to do. Drills can also take wire brushes that can be used for aging. If you can find them, a manual push drill (sometimes called a Persian drill) is a great tool to have for fine work or starting pilot holes.

##### **Files**

A good selection of files can be invaluable. I think a minimum would be a big flat bastard and a big round, and a kit of jewelry files. Quality makes a big difference with files, so don't get them at the dollar store. Files are useful for taking sharp edges off of certain props for safety. Sometimes even normal items have manufacturing flaws that can leave a sharp bit to snag someone. In addition, they are useful for aging and making holes larger which is sometimes one of those things a props person needs to do.

##### **Flashlight**

Yes, you have a light on your phone, but nothing can replace a proper flashlight or headlamp. There will be dark studios and crew parks. You will be working before the sun is up or after it has gone down. There will be dark holes to peer in and gun barrels to clear. In my mind a flashlight is imperative, and I use the one I EDC probably every other day in some capacity. One that uses a common AA or AAA battery might not be the best brightest flashlight you can get, but you will always have batteries available for it. You can check out Flashlights 101 for some more information on flashlights.

##### **Glue Gun**

Hot glue guns come in different sizes and temperatures. I like having a selection so there's always the right one for the job. A hot industrial one is good for gluing things that you don't want to come apart, or if you need to do a lot of gluing and not have the gun cool down. Generally, the hotter the glue is, the stronger the bond will be, but it's not always the case. A standard glue gun is a good workhorse, this would probably be in the 75-125 watt range. A low temperature might be around 30w and an industrial as high as 450. Tips: Glue comes in different colours and can be great for repairs to rubber props. I like having a mini glue gun pre-loaded with black glue. Ryobi makes a pretty useful cordless gluegun that's inexpensive, and if you don't use the Ryobi battery system, you can get adapters to use other brands of batteries. Don't have a glue gun? In a pinch, a lighter can be used to melt a glue stick. Some glue guns have safety features where they stop heating after a certain point-- depending on it's use that can either help or hinder. Have a cup of water standing by for the inevitable burn.

##### **Hair Dryer**

A hair dryer has a few different uses including helping things to dry and helping to remove labels. Look for one that has a cold air setting, as sometimes you want the air movement, but not the heat. Heat doesn't always help things dry.

##### **Hammers**

A props truck/kit should have a standard hammer and a wooden/rubber mallet. If you are getting into certain leather or metal crafting, there are many styles of hammers available, but for most things, the basics will suffice.

##### **Heat Gun**

A heat gun is a must for removing labels, stripping paint, accelerating drying times or forming plastic. If you have a power tool system like Dewalt that has a battery powered heat gun available, I highly recommend it.

##### **Hex Keys**

Also called Allen Keys. These are often used on set. Look for a set that has both metric and SAE and where the hex keys can be removed. The sets where they are all together make getting into some tight spots impossible. Some hex keys have rounded ends which allow for turning at a slight angle, but best to find ones where the short end is not rounded for when you may need that extra torque.

##### **Inflator**

I love my battery powered inflator/air compressor. I can use it to inflate camping mats, balls, tires and even wine bags to fill backpacks. I've even used it to clean the beer lines of a bar on set. These can be AC or DC powered by 12v or power tool batteried.

##### **Label Maker**

Aside from the obvious ability to create organizational labels, a label maker can assist in making props. You'll want a label maker that can take at least 18mm tape, but 24mm is better. Need a quick nametag, slap some vinyl on an existing tag and print up a new name with black on clear. Labels are also great for greeking. Some off-brand labels are available that are a fraction of the cost and available in different colours than the name brand labels; they come in a variety of qualities though so there are pros and cons.

##### **Laminator**

Laminators are most often used for making ID cards and slide in chairbacks, or borrowed by other departments. I'd recommend getting one that is 11" wide so that you can laminate 11x17 pages. I've had expensive laminators crap out, and cheaper laminators work well, so all I can say is that price doesn't always equal quality. Look for one that has different heat settings including no heat.

##### **Leather Punch**

A leather punch is probably used at least once per show, and obviously way more on a period show that would deal with more leather. Need to make that police belt looser or tighter? Need to do a quick repair and pop a chicago screw in? I recommend getting the best quality one you can afford from a leather work store, not a big box retailer as the cheaper ones are prone to bending.

##### **Lighter**

Even if you don't smoke, you'll want a standard boc lighter, and a BBQ lighter on the truck. I like having a lighter in a licence plate kit in case you need to put some snot on a wet bolt, a lighter will dry it. I've also been told that heating up the adhesive of peel and stick velco makes it stick better, but I've never tried a comparison. Lot of uses outside of lighting candles, and a good thing to EDC.

##### **Measuring Tape**

A measuring tape comes in super handy for the obvious reasons, but as well it helps for showing scale in photos. Stanley and Dewalt tend to be the better reviewed brands.

##### **Micro Screwdrivers**

Micro screwdrivers are used all the time for opening batter compartments, fixing something, or taking something apart. These are tools that I believe you should buy quality versions of the first time. You don't want your screw being harder than the screwdriver, or the shaft turning in the handle. I'd want to have a large set on the truck, and a smaller set with the on-set cart.

##### **Multimeter**

Multimeters have a variety of functions (hence their name!) but the most useful functions in props are measuring voltage and testing continuity. To test how much voltage is coming from a battery or the end of a power adapter is, set your multimeter to V-DC (Voltage Direct Current). Red goes to positive, black to negative. Continuity will measure if current is flowing through a wire or circuit and give an audible beep. This is useful to see if something is connected that should be, or to see if something is connected accidentally that shouldn't. You can also test a fuse with continuity. Instead of posting a link here, just search "how to use a multimeter."

##### **Multitool**

I went to the Leatherman factory and store in Portland to pick out the best multitool for me. I chose the Charge TTI. It has a number of tools that I use often. The saw on it can cut through a 2x4 in 30s but is also great for aging the edges of fabrics, like back straps. The file and bit driver are also invaluable. The scissors are useful, but won't beat a real pair, and of course the pliers and knives come in handy all the time. It's the best tool for my needs, but you should pick what's best for you. The Wave and Ark are also good. Gerber, SOG and Victorianox all make decent products. SOG have great pliers, Vicrorionox have great scissors. Do not bother with cheap no-name tools or tools that don't lock.

##### **Paintbrushes**

Good for paint or aging. Different types of bristles and sizes are better for different things, so it's good to have a selection. It's also good to have both cheap and disposable brushes and better quality paint brushes (and make sure it's clear which is which).

##### **Paper Cutter**

For the most part, a craft knife, cutting mat and straight edge will be more precise than a paper cutter, but sometimes you're looking for speed. There's a cutter out there that I really like that has an adjustable cutting wheel that allows you to make perforations and fold lines as well. It even has a corner punch built in. TIP: To better line up a paper cutter, use a flashlight, turn the cutter upside down, or look from the bottom!

##### **Pen**

I'm always surprised by the number of times someone doesn't have a pen on them. To me it's an EDC item, and a mandatory piece of props kit. Use it to sign your time sheet, and make notes on the back of your sides. I have a compact space pen that fits in the sheath of my Leatherman, but I prefer to use a multicolour pen that also has a pencil built in. I like the ability to make notes in different colours to keep myself organized, and having a pencil comes in handy.

##### **Phone**

We pretty much all have smartphones on us now. The functionality of calls, texts, the camera and access to the internet is obvious, but they're also calculators, flashlights, translators, notepads, phonebooks, shopping carts, and an invaluable reference tool. Get yourself a good case and screen protector. Have a battery charger. Get paid for your phone by production!

##### **Pliers**

There's no one set of pliers that's best for everything. A pair of standard pliers, slip lock pliers, and a few sizes of needle nose pliers should do the trick. There are also hemostats that are even better for fine work. I have found carrying a pair of pliers with me in the form of my Leatherman to be invaluable. Pliers are not wrenches and while they can be used on bolts, the teeth can damage the bolt head.

##### **Pocket Knife**

A pocket knife is an important bit of EDC for a props person. Mine is actually a belt buckle knife that is mainly used to open Amazon boxes. From cutting tape, rope, emergency greeking, opening packages removing tags, scraping off logos, a pocked knife is one of the more handy things someone can carry.

##### **Sanding Tools**

Sandpaper is the obvious one here, and having a variety of grits is important. Primarily used for aging, but it can be used to greek something or make something with a sharp edge safer. There are sanding attachments for drills, dremmels, oscillating tools and of course dedicated electric sanders.

##### **Saws**

For cutting wood, I'm a fan of a Japanese pull saw. I find them to be easier to use and control. They come in a variety of sizes. Silky Saws make some quality saws that are available in stores and online. Having a hacksaw and spare blades on the truck is also important. Model shops often have small saws too, which can be useful for some of the small work we often have to do. I can count on one hand the number of times I've needed a power saw in props, and generally grips and FX have these if you need to borrow one, or you can ask the on-set carpenter to cut something too.

##### **Scissors**

There are many deferent kinds of scissors for different applications. Medical shears are great for use near skin or as a fairly multipurpose shear, but they aren't the best choice for detailed work or cutting paper. Leatherman Raptor is a quality folding shear (there are many knockoffs) that also includes a belt cutter and ring cutter. A pair of small scissors for detail cutting come in handy. Olfa make some good ones. A nice pair of scissors for paper. A pair only used for cloth. And to round off the list, a big pair of utility cutters for cutting through thicker items. Remembe scissors can be sharpened.

##### Screwdriver

I'm a fan of the picquick screwdrivers. The mariner one won't rust, and the bits are swapped and replaced easily. Buy a Canadian screwdriver with Robertson bits. When in doubt what phillips bit you need, start large and go smaller if large doesn't fit.

##### Security Bits

Some people make things that they don't want you to take apart, but we like taking things apart! A good security bit set will allow you to unscrew anything.

Sharpie

Socket Set

Soldering Iron

Steamer

Torch

Vice Grips

Wire Cutters