UK Bouldering First At Each Grade

A list of the first ascents of non-eliminate problems at each grade. Traverses are in a seperate list below.

Some problems were originally the starts to routes, but the nature of bouldering has evolved over the years and this list represents the progression of climbing standards on what we currently call boulder problems.

**5** - Victorian Climb - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895

**6A** - Flipper - Robin Hood's Stride - ? - 1903 photo (Flipper is the climb on the right, without the cheat stone)

**6A** - Spider Wall - Ilkley - ? - 1930's? video

**6A** - Crease Direct - Crookrise - Allen Austin - 1957 (beats Crucifix Arete by a year and The Villain by two)

**6A+** - Teaspoon Variation - Almscliff - Arthur Dolphin - 1948

**6A+** - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s? video photo

**6B** - Janker's Groove Direct - Froggatt - Don Whillans - 1948?

**6B+** - ?

**6C** - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 1972 (beats Horror Arete by two years) video

**6C+** - Tom's Original - Stoney Middleton - Tom Proctor ? - 1960s? (given 7A, but generally regarded as a bit soft.) video

**7A** - Barleymow - Almscliff - Tony Barley - 1966 video

**7A+** - Ron's Crack II - Crookrise - Ron Fawcett - 1974 (beats Red Baron and Desert Island Arete by two years) photo

**7B?** - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 1970s? (grade reflects original state - it used to have better footholds) photo

**7B** - Bald Pate Superdirect - Ilkley - Andy Brown - 1980

**7B+** - Lay-By Arete - Slipstones - Paul Ingham - 1983 (beats West Side Story by two years) video

**7C** - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982 (the start to a route, not generally considered a boulder problem, though it is probably possible as such.)

**7C** - Sole Power - Froggatt - Jerry Moffatt - 1983 video photo

**7C+** - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Haston - 1979

**7C+** - Monoblock - Pex Hill - Joe Healy - early 80s photo photo photo

**8A** - Careless Torque - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 1987 video

**8A+** - Superman - Crag X - Jerry Moffatt - 1988 (a tight line. holds have altered.) video

**8B** - Isla de Encanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999 video

**8B+** - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001 photo

**8C** - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002 photo

Traverses

**6A** - Three Swings Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1940s?

**6B** - Traverse - Shipley Glen - ? - 1950s?

**6B+** - Virgin Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1970s?

**6C** - Demon Wall Roof Traverse - Almscliff - ? - 1970s?

**7A** - Bluebell Wall Traverse - The Breck - Al Rouse - 1968

**7A+** - Pebble Mill Traverse - Burbage South - Pete Lowe - 1978 video

**7B** - Pebble Traverse - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 70s/80s?

**7B+** - Mid-level Traverse - The Breck - Mike Collins - 1979

**7C** - Powerband - Raven Tor - Jerry Moffatt - 1987 video

**7C+** - Pockets traverse - Back Bowden Doors - Pete Curtain - mid 80's

**8A** - Staminaband - Raven Tor - Ben Moon - 1988 video

**8A** - Traverse of the Gods - Craig Y Longrdige - Tony Mitchell/Dave Kenyon - late 1980s? video

**8A+** - Inertia Reel Traverse - Jerry Moffatt - Roaches - 1980s? video

**8B** - Anesthesia - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2000 (originally graded 8B/8B+, but climbed with an eliminate no heels sequence) video

**8B+** - Pilgrimmage - Parisella's - Malcolm Smith - 2004 video

**8C** - History awaits...

Links

UKB thread [1]

UKB thread [2]