Kantonese cuisine

**Kantonese cuisine** encompasses the regional and traditional foods of Kanton, which have developed through centuries of political, economic and social changes. The traditional cuisine of Kanton (左绢, *zuojuan* or 久厨, *jiuchu*) is based on rice with broth and other additives; there is an emphasis on contrasts between flavours. Side dishes often consist of fish, pan-fried vegetables, and vegetables cooked in broth. Seafood is also common, often grilled, but is also commonly served raw especially in northern regions. Apart from rice, staples include noodles, such as *nianduo* and *anduo*. Kanton also has many soup dishes such as fish products in broth (*sutang*), or beef stew called *baotang*.

Historically influenced by Japanese cuisine, Kantonese cuisine has opened up to influence from Western countries in the modern era. Dishes inspired by foreign food, like ramen and *jiaoduo*, as well as foods such as spaghetti, curry, and hamburgers, have been adopted with variants for Kantonese tastes and ingredients. Traditionally, the Kantonese shunned meat and mushrooms because of Qiren and Buddhism, but with the modernisation of Kanton in the late 1800s, meat-based dishes have become more common, and mushrooms no longer carry a religious stigma.

## Terminology

The word *zuojuan* (左绢) is now the de facto word for traditional Kantonese cooking. The term *jiuchu* (久厨) is synonymous with the former, but is now considered quite old-fashioned, and may only be used in scenarios when one is making a very ancient or well-loved meal. Generally, *zuojuan* has come to connotate a certain high standard, such as an expensive restaurant with well-trained chefs. Traditional Kantonese restaurants or street vendors will most likely use the word *jiuchu* which has associations with childhood, warmth and familiarity.

The *kuding* (苦订, lit. 'black tray') is a black lacquered tray which has become connected to Kantonese food culture, despite being first used for serving tea. Traditionally, laquer trays were used for plating the food of honoured guests, and were also used during formal banquets where several courses were serrved. In fact, black lacquer has become synonymous with highbrow meetings and feasts, and cups, chopsticks and bowls made of black lacquer are also popularly used.

## Traditional cuisine

Kantonese cuisine is based on combining the staple food, which is steamed white rice or *zhengla*, with one or more main dishes or side dishes. This meal may be accompanied by fried or pickled vegetables, or a light broth. The phrase *sanshen yizhu* (三身一主) refers to the make-up of a typical meal served, literally meaning 'three beside, one main'.

Rice is served in its own small bowl (*lazi*), and each main course item is placed on its own small plate (*ban*) or bowl (*zi*) for each individual portion. This is done less formally in Kantonese homes, where one large bowl is used to accommodate all the products of one meal (组咨*, zuzi*). Placing main dishes directly on top of rice is considered impolite when eating someone else's cooking, but is perfectly acceptable at home. In an informal environment, shared serving dishes presented in the middle of the table contain complementary items such as bread, raw vegetables or potato which are used by everybody present. However, in formal scenarios each person will be given their own small dish from which to take helpings.

## History

Rice is a staple in Kantonese cuisine. Wheat and soybeans were introduced shortly after rice, and all three act as staple foods in Kantonese cuisine today. During the Nen Period, Qiren became the unofficial state religion of the nation, and therefore eating meat and certain foods such as salmon and mushrooms was frowned upon. During this period also, chopsticks were introduced to Kanton, however initially they were only used by the nobility, and the general population used their hands.

Due to a lack of meat products the Kantonese did not use spices, and in fact flavouring at this time was very uncommon. Herbs such as garlic and mint were used minimally. In the absence of meat, fish served as the main protein, as Kanton is an island nation, and went on to influence many iconic dishes still eaten today. In the 9th century, grilled and pickled fish became popular with the upperclasses, and eventually reached the serfdom, for whom fish was equally accessible. Kantonese who could afford to use oil and fat in their meals often did so, which ironically resulted in many of the serfdom being healthier than their landlords and chiefs.