Din Tai Fung with Farley Elliott

"Din Tai Fung with Farley Elliott" is Episode 337 of *Doughboys*, hosted by Mike Mitchell and Nick Wiger. "Din Tai Fung with Farley Elliott" was released on February 17, 2022.

## Synopsis

Food writer Farley Elliott (*Eater LA*, *LA Street Food*) and the 'boys discuss how the pandemic has affected the restaurant industry before a review of Din Tai Fung. Plus, a winter-themed Slop Quiz.

## Nick's intro

"*Taiwan is the first country that can watch.*"

This quote, delivered in Mandarin in a promotional interview for the ninth *Fast and Furious* film given with Taiwanese media outlet, TVBS, provoked a PR disaster for the man who said it, WWE superstar turned to movie star, John Cena. The seemingly innocuous acknowledgment of Taiwanese sovereignty stirred a massive backlash in mainland China, leading Cena to issue an emphatic retraction and apology (also in Mandarin). This gesture ignited its own backlash in the US, which saw the video statement on Weibo as a craven cave to the Chinese government in exchange for international box-office revenue.

It's hardly the first China-centric free-speech controversy in the West. Sports fans saw the NBA and its stars cower in silence after China financially retaliated for then-Houston Rockets GM Darryl Morey's tweet in support of the Hong Kong protests. And while easy and fun to condemn celebrities for failing to speak up when their wealth is threatened by a totalitarian state, such is a feature not a bug of multinational capitalism.

Futurists of the recent past predicted the internet would lead to a global free-speech movement, whereas in reality, the opposite has happened. Nations have more effectively throttled communication by holding hostage the revenue of multinational corporations. Apple, publicly emphatic about its commitment to user privacy, but reliant on both Chinese manufacturing and China's enormous customer base, agreed to host user data on government-controlled servers as a cost of doing business in the region.

But while capitalism has been ruinous for freedoms, worker rights, and the environment worldwide, it has been an incredible boon for dining.

In 1958, Bingyi Yang, a refugee from mainland China, opened a cooking-oil shop with his wife Penmei Lai in the Taiwanese capital of Taipei. In 1970, the couple began selling xiao long bao (literally translated as 'little dumpling in a basket') out of their shop and by 1972 had pivoted fully to being a restaurant. The concept quickly grew long lines, and expanded locally, and, in time, internationally, opening a Tokyo branch in 1996 and a US outlet in the majority-Asian-American city of Arcadia, California in 2000. Today, the chain has 170 outlets in thirteen countries and is revered for its quality of food and service and its staggering consistency across multinational locations.

And while the geopolitical status of Taiwan remains unresolved and a public-relations third rail, the status of Taiwan's most famous restaurant export is above reproach: the rare chain to be awarded a coveted Michelin star.

This week on *Doughboys*, Din Tai Fung.

## Fork rating

 Mike Mitchell
* Honey Lemonade (with Aloe Add-on)
 Farley Elliott
 shared
* Sweet & Sour Pork Baby Back Ribs (Mitch & Farley)
* Wood Ear Mushroom in a Vinegar Dressing
* Sautéed String Beans with Garlic
* Sautéed Bok Choy
* Braised Beef Soup (Mitch & Farley)
* Hot & Sour Soup (Mitch & Farley)
* House Jidori Chicken Soup
* Shrimp Fried Noodles
* Shredded Kurobuta Pork Fried Noodles (Mitch & Farley)
* Black Pepper Beef Tenderloin (Mitch & Farley)
* Truffle & Kurobuta Pork Xiao Long Bao (Mitch & Farley)
* Vegan Buns
* Kurobuta Pork Buns
* Vegan Wontons with House Spicy Sauce
* Jidori Chicken Dumplings
* Cod Dumplings
* Chocolate & Mochi Xiao Long Bao

**Spoonman's Bite of the Night** went to the Truffle & Kurobuta Pork Xiao Long Bao.

Mitch gives Din Tai Fung the elusive six fork rating, which had previously only been given to Bonchon Chicken.

These scores place Din Tai Fung in the Platinum Plate Club.

## Slop Quiz: Ice Try

In Slop Quiz, Nick presents a food-related exam (pop quiz) and Mitch and the guest compete for superiority.

For this episode, the theme is winter. (This is considered the 2022 Winter Doughlympics.)

Nick offers a chain restaurant, and they have to guess whether the chain offers cube ice or nugget ice.

Mitch is crowned the Ice King!

## Quotes

You make me squeal
Like a pink little piglet*

**Mitch**: Fuck! The Doughboys' bank account is gonna be depleted!

## The Feedbag

 Mike MItchell
 Farley Elliott

## Photos

Pear Lychee MartiniDark Milk Tea (with Boba Add-on)Yuzu MargaritaWood Ear Mushroom in a Vinegar DressingHot & Sour SoupTruffle & Kurobuta Pork Xiao Long BaoSautéed Bok ChoyCucumber SaladBlack Pepper Beef TenderloinBraised Beef SoupVegan BunsJidori Chicken DumplingsCod DumplingsShredded Kurobuta Pork Fried NoodlesSweet & Sour Pork Baby Back RibsHouse Jidori Chicken SoupNoodles with Minced Kurobuta Pork SauceVegan Wontons with House Spicy SauceSautéed String Beans with GarlicEmma's homemade dumplings