Glen Croe

## NORTH SIDE

**BIVVY/HOWFF BOULDER**

Broken Home Font 6a\*

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

The obvious sharp arete on the front of the bloc above entrance.

Thermo-static Font 7c\*

*Dave MacLeod (September 2003)*

Block leaning against Bivvy Boulder. Climb the slanting arete facing the Kennedy Boulder from a SS on low holds. Big pinches and slopers. (Below and facing Kennedy Boulder)

**(20m Right of Bivvy)**

Face Full of Bush Font 6b\*\*\*

*Anthony Baker (September 2003)*

On the small boulder 20m right of the Bivvy Boulder. From SS on a sloping hold at the left end of the steep face make a reachy move to a pocket. Climb straight up and over the highest point on the boulder.

Shallow Pockets Font 5+

*Anthony Baker (September 2003)*

On the same boulder as Face Full of Bush. From two small pockets on the centre of the face make a lunge for the top!

Tickle Him! Font 4+

*Anthony Baker (Sep 2003)*

On the same boulder as Face Full of Bush. Traverse the lip from the right end of the boulder to finish up Shallow Pockets.

**(30m Down and Right of Bivvy)**

No Bellyflop Required Font 4c\*\*\*

*Dominic Kehoe, Anthony Baker (September 2003)*

On the large boulder 30m down and to the right of the Bivvy Boulder. Climb the obvious smooth left side of the arete to an exposed sloping finish.

Wimp Font 5+\*

*Dominic Kehoe (September 2003)*

On the same boulder as No Bellyflop Required. Just to the right, climb straight up on brittle rock to a sharp finish.

Sharp Font 4+\*

*Dominic Kehoe (September 2003)*

Traverse along the lip from right to left and finsh up Wimp.

Un-named Font 3

*Dominic Kehoe (September 2003)*

On the west face of the same boulder as Wimp. Climb the obvious central mossy slab to the top.

**APPROACH BOULDER**

(30m from front face of Kennedy Boulder)

Oswald Font 6a\*\*

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

If looking out to Glen Croe from the Kennedy Boulder go right, heading towards the approach path. There is a shield of rock that leans onto another boulder. SS at good holds then climb the steep wall until able to gain holds on lip. Lunge for a two-handed jug then top out.

**(20m Uphill from Kennedy)**

Stilton Font 6a\*\*

*Dominic Kehoe, Anthony Baker (September 2003)*

20m uphill from the right end of the Kennedy Boulder. From SS climb the obvious overhanging lip to the left arete. Pull over on good holds.

Mould Font 6a+\*\*

*Dominic Kehoe, Anthony Baker (September 2003)*

On the same boulder as Stilton SS from good crimps on the centre of the face and climb straight over the bulge to a tricky finish.

**THE KENNEDY BOULDER**

**(FRONT FACE)**

Crossfire Font 6a

Jugs up via undercuts through a low quartzy boss.

Assassin Font 6b\*\*

*Michael Tweedley (July 2002)*

On the front face at the left hand side. Obvious good holds to lip then weird rockover.

Assassin Direct Font 6c\*

*Dave MacLeod (September 2002)<*br>
Climb Assassin until below a hole in the wall. Move up and left on smaller holds to gain a left facing groove with a good finishing hold.

Happy Birthday Mr President Font 7c\*

*Dave MacLeod (September 2002)*

This powerful problem takes the obvious challenge right of Assassin. Sit start at the good undercuts. Without using the boss on the problem just to the left, launch upwards to the crozzly two-handed finger jug (aggression useful). Match this and make a further tricky move to gain slopers directly above and the top.

Ebb & Flow Font 7c+\*

*Dave MacLeod (September 2003)*

A more direct entry to The Hotline. SS one metre to the left of the quartz of The Hotline, LH low but good sidepull, RH sharp undercut, RF toe hook. Get established and powerfully span to the diagonal jug on The Hotline. Finish up this.

The Hotline Font 7c+\*\*

*Dave MacLeod (August 2002)*

Near the left end of the front face is a quartz intrusion low down. Start sitting with hands in the quartz. Gain a slopey crimp directly above then make a desperate slap left to diagonal jugs. If you hold the Kung Fu, match the jug and make a big but easier dyno for the lip jugs and rock over. (Dyno from standing is Font 6c+)

The Nuclear Button Font 7c+\*\*\*

*Dave MacLeod (September 2002)*

Start in the quartz slopers as for The Hotline. climb directly with difficulty to the obvious hollow block. Get psyched and dyno for the top. Frustrating. (The dyno from standing is a good problem in itself at Font 7a+).

Float like a Butterfly, Sting like a Bieber Font 7a+ \*\*

*Fraser Mclwraith (June 2013)*

Stand start from high, thin crimps jump to an ok dish on the boulder lip, and do a tricky mantle.

Cavalcade Font 7a\*\*

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

As for Trigger Happy but cross into flakey press and follow good holds leftwards to flake. Chuck for lip and lunge for good hold. (Harder now holds have broken, sorry Mike, me too fat JW 2007.)

Trigger Happy Font 7b\*\*\*

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

To the left of So Jackie O is a obvious line up flakes and pockets. Use flake to gain press and then make painful pocket moves to get sloper on lip.

So Jackie O Font 7b\*\*

*Dave MacLeod (August 2002)*

Sit start just left of Conspiracy below some undercuts. Pull up on the undercuts and make a hard stretch to a distant sloper. Match this and move right past a dubious jug and finishing rockover. Powerful.

Conspiracy Font 6c+\*

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

On right front face is a wee hanging bulge. SS From crimps to hand rail then boost to jugs and mantel out.

Brinkmanship Font 7b\*\*

*Dave MacLeod (August 2002)*

This problem climbs the attractive 50 degree roof right of Conspiracy. Sit start in the centre of the roof. use thin edges to make a hard reach to a slopey edge on the lip. gain another sloper just above and move right to a jug. rock up and make a long reach up and left to an inverted jug. Finish leftwards.

Lookin Down a Barrel Font 6c

*Dave MacLeod (September 2002)*

Sit start just left(?) of Pretty in Pink at a rib. Heelhook the rib and make a big lock to gain a letterbox on the lip, up and left. Finish leftwards as for Brinkmanship.

Pretty in Pink Font 6a

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

To the right of Brinkmanship is a obvious small line. Starting at quartz gain lip and exit right to big hold on slab.

Bullit Font 7a\*\*

*Stephen Richardson (September 2002)*

Start about 5m right of Conspiracy in an obvious groove. Traverse leftwards along the lip on petite crimps until you reach a groove to the left of Conspiracy. Then rock over on to the slab, that is if you have any oomph left! Interesting outing and named after the obscene amounts of falls taken due to exploding crimps! (More holds fell off 2006 JW but still doable.)

Brains, Shoulders, Knees and Toes Font 6a\*\*

*Stephen Richardson (September 2002)*

Take the blank slab face of the Kennedy Boulder looking out across the glen. Get up on to the middle section of the slab (considerable amount of knee action in first ascent) and then teeter up the middle of the slab. Falling would not be a pleasant experience, however a great bold route.

**(BACK FACE)**

The Grassy Knoll Font 6a\*

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

On the roof at the back of Kennedy Boulder on the left hand side. SS on jugs, go left and make tricky rockover on lip to finish.

Brain Drain Font 7b\*\*

*Michael Tweedley (September 2002)*

SS from quartz block, straight up to rail of Vietnam and to lip then make desperate mantel out using small side pull.

Vietnam Font 6c \*

The back wall of the boulder has a low cave roof. This problem takes the central hanging rail left to a rock out to the obvious cleaned flake. Often wet.

Bullet in Your Head Font 7b+\*

*Dave MacLeod (September 2002)*

This varied problem takes the obvious curving line in the centre of the back roof on the Kennedy Boulder. Sit start at a dubious two finger pocket. A big lock from this gains the slot in the crack and leads to a tenuous finish on slopers.

Lone Gunman Font 6c\*

*Michael Tweedley (August 2002)*

At the back of the Kennedy Boulder is a 60 degree roof. On right side is obvious layback feature. SS Then gain quartz pocket and a couple of slopers lead to good holds. Mantel out.