Sewing basics

## Helpful Videos

The following is a list of videos to help explain the basics if sewing. Although all the videos are specific to the Sailrite sewing machine in SparQ, some information is transferable to any sewing machine you may have access to at home.

#### Video 1: How to set up your sewing machine

* This video covers information about the machine, threading the machine, winding the bobbin of the machine, and other initial information like that. This information is good to know for general maintenance, however the machine should already be set up from the last person who used it. If you would like to change the thread or bobbin, this video is also useful to watch.

#### Video 2: How to adjust tension on your sewing machine

* Adjusting tension is necessary to ensure you stitch properly. Too loose, and your threads wont catch. Too tight, and your fabric will bunch up. This video reviews how to properly set the tension for any fabric you use, and how to trouble shoot fixing the tension if you are having troubles

#### Video 3: How to set up your bobbin and thread (winding the bobbin)

* This video covers how to set up and wind your thread and bobbin. The thread and bobbin work together to create a stitch so you need both properly set up before you begin any project.

#### Video 4: How To Stitch

* This video reviews how to sew in both straight and curved lines, as well as making corners. It coves basic, but important tips on how to hold your fabric while sewing to ensure you are doing it correctly. It builds on previous videos on how to ensure you have proper tension and how to go about making adjustments if needed.

* An important note: Do not make sharp turns while in motion with the needle buried in the fabric as this will break the needle or damage the machine. Always stop sewing, bury the needle in the fabric, raise the foot, and then rotate the fabric to make a sharp turn (90 degree for example).

#### Video 5: How to Properly Feed Fabric for a Straight Stitch

* This video reviews how to properly feed your fabric through the sewing machine to ensure straight lines while sewing. This video is useful if you are struggling to keep your lines straight, or want your final product to look nice and clean. The main take away from this video is to guide the fabric with your hands, and stop sewing before you adjust your hand positioning. The foot does an excellent job at keeping the fabric in line, so all you need to do is guide it.

#### Video 6: How to Sew Basic Seams

* This video covers how to create two different types of seams: an overlapping seam and a semi-flat felled seam. A seam is used to attach two pieces of fabric together. This video shares that you can use double sided tape to hold the pieces of fabric together while you are sewing. If no double sided tape is available, you can also use pins, carefully removing them one by one as they approach the needle as to not sew over them and risk damaging the printer (see Video 7 for help with this)

* Different seams are useful for different applications, so be sure to do some research and practice before sewing on your final pieces of fabirc.

#### Video 7: How to Finish Edges

* This video demonstrates how to do finishing edges with hems and bindings. This is a good review for when you are almost done your project.

* This video also reviews how to properly use straight pins. Straight pins are a great way to help keep your fabric in place while you are preparing to sew or sewing.

Hopefully the above videos are useful and help get you started on your sewing projects. If you wish to see any more videos on basic sewing techniques, please reach out the the SparQ Studios team. If you are running into any projects, check out the Troubleshooting section of the wiki for some help, or ask a supervisor.

## Additional Information

### Different Needles

It is very important to use the right sewing needle for your machine to avoid damaging the bobbin, breaking your fabric, breaking the needle etc. SparQ provides all correct sewing needles, in various sizes to suit your sewing needs. Only use the needles provided by SparQ when using the machine.

There are different types of needles for different types of fabrics. Needles are often classified by their size and shape. The factors which will determine which needle to use while sewing include:

* The fabric you plan to use (light, medium or heavy weight)
* The type of stitch you plan to use (top stitching, hemstitching etc)

The standard needle is size 12, which is suitable for beginners using medium weight standard fabrics (no metallics, leather, canvas etc). If you would like to be more specific then follow this rule of thumb:

* Light weight fabrics (chiffon, linen, lace, cheesecloth etc)
	+ Use a size 8 needle
* Medium weight (velvet, sateen, cotton,
	+ Use a size 10 or 12 needle
* Heavy fabrics (leather, denim, upholstery, vinyl)
	+ Use a size 14 or 16 needle
* Very heavy fabrics (thick leather, thick denim etc)
	+ Use a size 18 or 19 needle

Please ask a supervisor or the director for an additional needle if you would like to change the size, replace an old needle, or if you broke your current needle. Please watch this video on how to properly change the sewing needle before you change it.

### Different Stitch Lengths

On the sewing machine in SparQ, you can adjust the stitch length (length between each needle piercing on the fabrics) by adjusting the stitch length lever (on the front right side of the machine). The longest stitch length is set when the lever is all the way up. By loosening the nob, and pulling the lever down, you can make smaller stitch lengths.

Some tips and tricks of different stitch lengths:

* The longer the stitch, the quicker the sew, the less holes in the fabric, and the easier to un-stitch/remove. You need a longer stitch length if your thread is thick.
* The shorter the stitch, the stronger the seam, the longer the sew, but it may cause some fabrics to shred/tear. Shorter stitch lengths are also harder to remove. You need a shorter stitch length if your thread is thin.
* Light weight fabrics benefit from shorter stitch lengths to prevent fraying, pulling, and bunching of the fabric.
* Longer stitch lengths are better for heavier fabrics.

### Back Stitching

Back Stitching is useful to do when you start and end a stitch/seam to secure your end points. It prevents stitches from unraveling and stretching out of shape. To start a seam, place your fabric where you would like the beginning point. Start by sewing forward for about 5-10mm, then pull and hold the stitch lever (front right side of machine) all the way down. This will engage the back stitch, and your fabric will start to move backwards. Continue to guide your fabric straight back for about 5mm back to ensure it is following your first few mm of stitching, then release the stitch lever to start moving forward again. Complete your seam by repeating this process at the end point.