Remarks on the Combinations of Cooking

The preceding receipts have been tested by the best housekeepers.
In reviewing them, it will be seen that there are several ways of
combining the various articles, all of which have, in the hands of
good housekeepers, proved successful. Still it will be found that some
methods are more successful than others.

In most cases, the receipts have been written as given by the ladies,
who endorse them as _the best_. But it is believed that the following
general rules will enable a housekeeper to modify some of them to
advantage.

In using _the whites of eggs_, it is found, as shown by several
receipts, that various combinations are much lighter when they are cut
to a froth, and put in _the last thing_. This is so in batter puddings,
and several other receipts. It seems, therefore, probable that in all
cases, cake and pies, and puddings that will allow it, will be lighter
by adding the cut whites of the eggs _the last minute before cooking_.
Sponge cake especially would most probably be most easily made light by
this method.

In using alkalies with acids to raise mixtures, the poorest is
pearlash, the next best is saleratus; bicarbonate of soda is still
better, and sal volatile is best of all.

But one thing must be remembered in reference to sal volatile, and
that is, that the lightness made by it is owing to the disengagement
of the gas by _heat_. It is mixed with the flour, and when set in the
oven, the heat volatilizes and expels the gas, and thus the lightness
is induced. Of course _hot_ water must not be used to dissolve it, as
it would expel much of the gas. Sal volatile must be kept powdered, and
closely confined in glass bottles with ground glass stoppers. It is
certain to make any mixture light that can be raised by anything.

Cream tartar is best bought in lumps, and then pulverized and kept
corked.

When saleratus is used with sour milk or buttermilk, the flour should
be wet up with the sour milk, and then the alkali dissolved, and worked
in. This makes the effervescence take place _in the mixture_; whereas,
if the alkali is put into the sour liquid, much of the carbonic acid
generated is lost before it reaches the flour.

In all cases, then, where saleratus is used with acid wetting, it would
seem best to wet up the flour with at least a part of the sour liquid,
before putting in the alkali.

When the alkali is a light powder, it may sometimes be mixed thoroughly
with the flour, and then the sour liquid be mixed in. The experiment
can be made by any who like to learn the result. A lady who understands
chemistry may often improve her receipts by applying chemical
principles. All the lightness made by an acid and an alkali is owing
to the disengagement of carbonic acid, which is retained by the gluten
of the flour. Of course, then, that mode is best which secures most
effectually all the carbonic acid generated by the combination.

Cooking is often much improved by a judicious use of _sugar_ or
_molasses_. Thus, in soups, a very little sugar, say half a teaspoonful
to the quart, gives _body_ to the soup, and just about as much
sweetness as is found in the juices of the best and sweetest kinds of
meat. It is very good when the meats used are of inferior kind, and
destitute of sweetness. So in preparing vegetables that are destitute
of sweetness, a little sugar is a great improvement. Mashed turnips,
squash, and pumpkin, are all of them much improved by extracting all
the water, and adding a little sugar, especially so when they are poor.

A little molasses always improves all bread or cakes made of unbolted
wheat or rye.

A little lard or butter always improves cakes made of Indian meal, as
it makes them light and tender.

The careful use of _salt_ is very important in cooking. Everything is
better to have the salt cooked in it, but there should always be a
_little less_ salt than most would like, as it is easy for those who
wish more to add it, but none can subtract it.

When the shortening is butter, no salt is needed in cakes and puddings,
but in all combinations that have no salt in shortening, it must be
added. A little salt in sponge cake, custards, and the articles used
for desserts, made of gelatine, rice, sago, and tapioca, is a great
improvement, giving both _body_ and flavor.