Talk:Varnish

message: Varnish is also a class of hydrocarbons, I believe.  In particular, if you leave a gasoline engine unused for a long time, it is said that the gasoline will settle out into gums, resins, and varnish.  This meaning of the word is not explored in this article, but I don't have the knowledge to fill it in at this time --Mdwyer 22:20, 2005 September 6 (UTC)
:I don't know about the gasoline. It seems entirely possible due to oxidation. Inside the cylinder or on other moving parts people talk about a "glaze" and "breaking the glaze" by a light abrasion or sanding when you're trying to avoid actual machining in an engine overhaul. The glaze is basically the burned hydrocarbons deposited on the metal where the friction or heat occurs.
It's the same behavior but with petroleum oils and solvents.  Heat and friction cause a layer of oil to first gel, then harden. A powerful solvent  and /or abrasion is required to remove it.  Here.it.comes.again (talk) 14:20, 14 December 2019 (UTC)
thread_title: Untitled

message: Always use spar varnish on boats as it has some flexibility.Multiple coats are needed-usually 6-8(or more) to give good protection.Varnish is not as water resistent as paint and much more difficult to apply ,though few would argue about its fantastic appearance if well done.Keep varnish for small pleasure boats like canoes, dinghies and small sailing boats or use in small areas on larger vessels as the upkep is far greater with varnish(dont use on work boats).Although modern spar varnishes are quite good they will still break down fairly  quickly if left in the hot sun.Keep boats under cover when not in use to preserve the glossy finish.Never use anything else other than gloss on the exposed parts of a boat.Satin or other finishes are OK inside a bigger boat and are far easier to apply than gloss and look more like a classic oil finish.(Oil finishes have virtually no resistance to water penetration)
Suggestions for good small boat varnishing are:Varish indoors only out of the wind and away from insects.The temp should be 15-22 celsius if possible.Use a very dust free environment-vacuum and use a tack rag after each sand down. Use cheap chip brushes that cost about $2.(wooden handle ,white hair, much less hair than an expensive brush which can cost up to $60 or more)Keep them clean with mineral turps and /or Sard Wonder soap ( which really is fantastic-made in Australia -see the web site)Much nicer to use than smelly turps.Make sure the LAST clean before use is turps, not soap.If you are loaded just throw the brush away each time .Sand wood until smooth with about 120grit paper then use varnish deluted about 10% with turps(especially on a hotter day)for 1st coat, brushing on thinnly. Sand with about 120-150 grit paper between the first 3-4 coats depending on how porous the wood is eg Meranti a common marine ply is quite porous(open grain).Each thin coat should be well brushed out -never mind the patchy appearance. Run hand over varish after each sanding to feel rough patches and resand .
Then start applying thicker coats to get gloss after about 3-4 coats.Keep the light to one side ,lay on the varnish more thickly and dont brush out so much,work quickly , going back after a minute or 2 to check on runs.Use the tip of the brush to remove runs straight away.Keep checking with your eye down low to avoid "voids".Usually this coat is about 90% perfect.Sand lightly-240grit and try again until you get a even gloss with no voids or until your patience runs out.Boat decks are easy as they are flat but for items like centreboards or rudder do 1 side at a time for the final 2 or 3 coats.Clean brush real carefully and dont use for anything else.Just tip the end 4mm in the varnish before spreading to avoid drips.I find a 2"(40-50mm )brush works best  but I keep a flat artist's brush (10mm x 2mm thick)for tight areas .Ive used this method on about 20 boats.Stick to paint if you are impatient!Harry the boatman.Sept 2011  — Preceding unsigned comment added by 219.88.97.148 (talk) 01:59, 12 September 2011 (UTC)
thread_title:  Varnishing on boats 

message: The article currently reads, "Lacquer may be considered different from vanish because it can be re-dissolved later by a solvent (such as the one it was dissolved in when it was applied) and does not chemically change to a solid like other varnishes.[2]"
That is unclear.  Traditional oil-painters' picture varnish is usually made from either dammar or mastic resin dissolved in turpentine.  (Mineral spirits will not substitute, being too weak to dissolve the resin.)  Picture varnish is not intended to be permanent, but rather to be removed and replaced when it becomes soiled or yellowed, perhaps every 50 to 100 years.  It is removed using turpentine.  I do not know if it changes chemically, but it certainly can be "re-dissolved later." Jive Dadson (talk) 06:39, 20 November 2011 (UTC)
thread_title:  Difference between varnish and lacquer 

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thread_title:  External links modified 

message: There are lots of places where copy editing for simplicity and smooth reading is needed. An example would be use of parentheses when commas would do. 
I hope to get back here to take a big run at it, but I wanted to declare my intentions here so nobody is surprised and everyone has a chance to comment. Here.it.comes.again (talk) 14:31, 14 December 2019 (UTC)
thread_title:  Copy edit for smooth reading 

message: I will start work on this. I have worked with varnishes and produced them and made resins for them for over 40 years. I will in particular use old references and old patents. I disagree that the article contains original research. That is so highly unlikely. GRALISTAIR (talk) 13:50, 14 May 2021 (UTC)
thread_title:  Work in Progress 

message: does not appear in the english WP, although it is the substance, into which the dried out varnish will convert by adding oxigen into the compound. The name is not even mentioned in this article, but it should, i think.
Apart of that said, varnish can be easily made without resin and siccatives, as i show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZLka9BxZ-c Wolfgang Kaul (talk) 10:24, 7 August 2023 (UTC)
thread_title:  Linoxin