Talk:Crash cymbal

message: Guys what's a 'fast crash'? Is it a crash where after you hit, the sound goes away quickly? Hanz ofbyotch (talk) 20:30, 5 January 2011 (UTC)
replies: text: Exactly. They tend to be thinnish and highly tapered, with little or no overtone if played towards the rim. My Wuhan 14" Fast Crash has quite a thick bell, capable of some lovely pianissimo ride patterns using a nylon tip (7N or even 9N or similar), but its primary function is as a rich full crash at moderate volume. Too fragile for power rock, use a rock splash instead for even moderately loud. Andrewa (talk) 20:39, 19 November 2011 (UTC)
thread_title:  What's a Fast Crash? 

message: This section needs work... needs citations, contains many questionable statements.
But it's right in many ways. Cymbals often break because they are played badly, and crash cymbals are the most common breakages. But there are many reasons for this. One is simply that many self-taught beginners don't buy a splash until after they have already broken several crashes. They start off with ride, crash and hats, and their next purchase is a second crash for the other side of the kit, and then probably a china, by which time many have already broken at least one of the crashes. If they started with a splash it would go first! And some do.
This attrition is blamed by many drummers who know no better (and some drum shops who should and probably do know better) on wear-out. In fact modern cymbals rarely wear out if properly chosen and played. I fear that some drum shops encourage the wear-out myth because it enables them to avoid claims of defective cymbals (claims that are nearly always unjustified anyway, and would be rejected by the cymbal suppliers leaving the shop stuck in the middle), and hope that it's not because it also helps them to sell more cymbals. 
In my experience cymbals break even more often because they are badly mounted, for example how many beginners leave out the plastic sleeve that's supposed to cover the mounting bolt, or one of the felts? We've even had a writer at splash cymbal recommend leaving out the felt between piggybacked (not stacked) cymbals, apparently unaware that this will probably damage the cymbals. (Stacks are fine, it's the stress point at the mounting hole that's the killer with unfelted piggybacks.)
Cracking does sometimes occur even with well chosen and played cymbals, and can sometimes be treated. My one-time teacher Alan Turnbull has a favourite crash he's played for years with a large triangular piece cut out of the edge to stop a split. It hasn't wrecked the tone. I might try to get a photo of it! And the legendery Paiste 602 Paperthins were famous for splitting, I notice the recent 602 reissues don't include them. I played a 16" and a 12" paperthin for years with no problems at all, but "Tony the Tuner" of Venue Music City branch claimed to have personally broken no fewer than three of the 18" Paperthins, and he was a very skilled player. They all broke not at the thin rim but at the relatively thick corner between bell and bow, which was a sharp corner in all the original 602 designs (well, except the flat ride of course) and sharpest of all in the paperthins.  
Anyway, lots to do. I don't want to add my own WP:OR to the article. We need sources. Just hope the above may help to find them. Andrewa (talk) 06:36, 24 January 2012 (UTC)
thread_title: Cracking

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