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sequence | sentence
stringlengths 301
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] | O caviar de caracol está conquistando as mesas mais refinadas da Europa, com um discreto sabor de ervas e fungos que evocam o outono. A empresa Lamaca Madonita, localizada nos arredores de Palermo, na Sicília, tem feito um sucesso sem precedentes ao reduzir o tradicional ciclo de produção dos caracóis de cerca de três anos para oito meses. O segredo está no fato de que o apreciado molusco, que costuma ser criado em granjas ecológicas da Itália, França e Espanha, recebe uma alimentação especial, a base de cereais. "Nós alimentamos o bebê caracol com uma mistura aprovada por veterinários de cereais, cálcio e vitaminas, que faz com que cresçam muito mais rápido do que os que se alimentam só com plantas", contou à AFP Davide Merlino, um dos fundadores da empresa. Bem alimentados, os caracóis crescem em pequenos campos ao ar livre, na região de Campofelice di Roccella, quando são então colocados em redes com estruturas de madeira, dentro de um ambiente com umidade e temperatura controladas, em que podem entrar em caixas de plástico cheias de terra para depositar seus ovos. Reunir as preciosas pérolas brancas é difícil, gratificante e um bom negócio. Um quilo de ovas de caracol custa 1.600 euros, e é comercializado em porções de 50 gramas. O produto, que apareceu timidamente na década de 1980, é servido como entrada, com pratos de carne ou com beterraba. Mas devido a seu alto preço, acaba em mesas de luxo. Os italianos estão entre os maiores consumidores de caracóis, principalmente ao sul da península. O prazer por esse molusco é muito antigo e remonta à época de Plínio, o Velho, no século 1, que escreveu sobre as granjas que alimentavam com leite de burra e vinho os caracóis, um verdadeiro manjar para os romanos ricos. As primeiras granjas de caracóis foram criadas em Pompéia, já que os romanos os consumiam não somente como alimento, mas também como remédio para doenças do estômago e de vias respiratórias. Segundo as estimativas, os italianos adquiriram, em 2014, cerca de 40.000 toneladas de caracóis, contra as 30.000 toneladas da França –a Itália produz mais de 40% dos caracóis que consome. Do Piemonte (norte), passando por Roma e Sicília, os agricultores italianos se lançaram a aumentar a produção do delicioso manjar, conhecido na cozinha internacional com a palavra francesa "escargot". MUCO MÁGICO Merlino e seus sócios se instalaram na Sicília há 10 anos, depois de ter estudado na Grécia, Espanha e França para desenvolver seu inovador sistema de granjas. "Estamos treinando os que querem seguir nosso caminhos. Temos ajudado a centenas de produtores a acelerar as criações na Itália", contou Merlino. Em sua granja, ele cria caracóis de uma raça especial, de listras de um cinza escuro, em uma mistura franco-siciliana, que se difere por sua cor e pela dureza da casca. Como os animais são hermafroditas, são propensos a colocar centenas de ovos, dez dias depois de acasalar. As pequenas bolas de "muco" são enviadas a um laboratório que se encarrega da limpeza e de selecionar os ovos perfeitamente redondos e brancos. A mucosa é preservada para ser usada em cremes faciais, cujas propriedades regenerativas foram popularizadas por celebridades como Katie Holmes. | comida |
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] | Foi há cerca de dez anos, um tempo em que servir pernil na festa de casamento ainda era brega. Um pai ia casar a filha com um estudante mineiro de agronomia, de Viçosa. "Chiquérrima", a mãe estava preocupada com o horário da festa, que deveria acontecer em uma praia também "chiquérrima", na hora do pôr do sol, com flores lilás e tudo que se tinha direito. Até que o pai disse: "Quero que tenha pernil". "A mãe só não morreu do coração porque era moça ainda, porque senão tinha morrido. Imagina uma festa chique dessas com pernil?", se diverte Nina Horta, que comandava o bufê naquele dia. Segundo ela, depois dessa festa, é muito raro que um casamento não tenha a carne de "saideira". "É ridículo você seguir uma moda que você odeia", critica ela, que conhece inúmeras histórias de noivas que escolhem o bufê de acordo com o que pensam que é sofisticado, mesmo que não gostem da comida servida. Nesta quarta (11), ela participou de uma conversa na "TV Folha", com a repórter Magê Flores e Luiza Fecarotta, crítica da Folha, sobre as décadas dedicadas à cozinha e seu novo livro de crônicas. Em "O Frango Ensopado da Minha Mãe", que lançou no final de outubro pela Companhia das Letras, estão compiladas crônicas publicadas ao longo de anos na Folha, que versam sobre comida de mãe, literatura, ingredientes e cenas do cotidiano. Colunista do jornal desde 1987, ela tocou o bufê Ginger por quase 30 anos, paralelamente. "O bufê estraga qualquer vocação, já dou esse recado: quem gosta de cozinhar, não abra um bufê. Você não tem tempo nem força para ficar cozinhando. Você pode até fazer um peru, um cabrito, mas não pode nem pensar em fazer 30, 40." Em outra ocasião, relembra com humor que o dono de uma festa mandou fazer coxinha, empadinha, e ficou chamando os convidados na cozinha para comer escondido. "Não era chique. Mas por que ficar chamando o convidado para ir na cozinha? Por que não servir todo mundo com coxinha e empadinha?" Também falou sobre as mudanças que aconteceram na gastronomia ao longo dos anos. "O novo porco é completamente diferente do que eu comia quando era menina", diz, referindo-se ao fato de a gordura estar "sumindo" do podo de preparo. "A gente engorda e o porco emagrece", brinca. Sobre novas tendências da gastronomia, como os food trucks, faz um paralelo com a economia. "Cozinhar em casa virou uma coisa chiquérrima, por exemplo. Você transforma o que era ruim em bom, porque você só tem dinheiro para fazer aquela coisa." E elogia a apresentadora Bela Gil, conhecida por usar ingredientes naturais e brasileiros. "Todo mundo caçoa porque ela parece uma natureba doida. Mas ela não é. É que as coisas que ela come, a gente sempre comeu, mas desacostumou. Por exemplo, batata-doce, inhame, cará." A cronista, que acha que escreve melhor do que fala, se desculpa: "Eu engulo as palavras". | comida |
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] | Foi descoberta uma fraude no ramo dos azeites italianos. De acordo com os resultados de uma investigação da polícia do país, sete grandes marcas do produto estavam vendendo azeite de oliva comum como extravirgem. Comandado pelo procurador Raffaele Guariniello, o inquérito consistiu na realização de testes físicos, químicos e biológicos de frascos do óleo de diversas companhias. Dessas, sete falsificavam em seus rótulos a informação de que o produto era somente azeite de oliva –mais inferior e, por isso, de custo mais baixo–, e não extravirgem –mais sofisticado e mais caro. As empresas envolvidas são: Primadonna, Bertolli, Santa Sabina, Sasso, Coricelli, Antica Badia e Carapelli. No Brasil, podem ser encontrados nas prateleiras de mercados exemplares das marcas Bertolli, Coricelli e Carapelli. As investigações começaram após a publicação mensal "Il Test" ter enviado informações diretamente a Guariniello. "Vamos seguir com atenção a evolução do inquérito de Turim porque é fundamental proteger um setor estratégico como o do azeite de oliva italiano", afirmou o ministro de Políticas Agrícolas do país, Maurizio Martina. "Há meses reforçamos o controle, principalmente em relação à última safra de azeite, que foi uma das mais complicadas dos últimos anos. Em 2014, realizamos mais de 6.000 controles no setor, com apreensões de € 10 milhões", explicou. Martina concluiu dizendo que "é importante agora ter clareza para proteger os consumidores e milhares de empresas honestas empenhadas atualmente no novo ano de produção". OUTRO LADO Os fabricantes, ouvidos pela revista "Il Test", questionaram os métodos da pesquisa. O grupo Colavita, do Santa Sabina, afirmou ter realizado testes no mesmo lote analisado pela revista, nos quais confirmou "a regularidade do produto" e disse que eventuais alterações organolépticas, atribuídas à mistura de olivas italianas e espanholas, deveriam ser consideradas "características de origem", não "defeitos". A Coricelli disse desconhecer "qualquer problemática" em seus produtos. A Carapelli, responsável pelos azeites Carapelli, Bertolli e Sasso, se disse surpresa com os resultados e reafirmou que testes internos e da organização nacional de testadores não identificaram alterações nas amostras. | comida |
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] | Comida de mãe, as viagens de férias, o trabalho no bufê, a literatura de gastronomia, os ingredientes mais amados. O novo livro da colunista da Folha Nina Horta trata de todos esses assuntos. "O Frango Ensopado da Minha Mãe", que lançou no final de outubro, será fio condutor de uma entrevista ao vivo na "TV Folha" nesta quarta (11). O programa será transmitido a partir das 15h. O novo livro reúne crônicas de comida publicadas no jornal.. Ela é escritora e colunista de gastronomia da Folha há 25 anos e tocou o bufê Ginger por quase 30 anos. Para enviar perguntas, use a hashtag #tvfolha no Twitter. | comida |
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] | Entrar no Jamile é uma surpresa: seu salão clean e moderno contrasta com a antiga vizinhança do Bexiga –as cantinas familiares com décadas de existência, a padaria centenária com embutidos e pães à mostra. Dois nomes pops sustentam o projeto: Alberto Hiar, o Turco Loco, da grife de roupas Cavalera, e o chef Henrique Fogaça, jurado do "MasterChef" e à frente do Sal, que presta consultoria à casa. A cozinha do Jamile, aliás, está em explícito diálogo com a do Sal –e de lá traz algumas marcas registradas, tais quais as porções generosas e a presença de ingredientes brasileiros, em receitas variadas e contemporâneas. No ceviche de peixe-prego notam-se cores e sabores vibrantes (R$ 30). O peixe é combinado com tomate, cebola-roxa e pimentão-amarelo; limão, gengibre e hortelã lhe dão acidez e frescor. Também surge em visual instigante o fettuccine negro, feito na casa com tinta de lula. Embalado em potente caldo à base de cabeça e casca de camarão, traz os crustáceos, graúdos e tenros, mais lula e polvo (R$ 72), este podia estar mais firme -falta certa ousadia no ponto. Bem, vale a menção de que ainda é preciso equilibrar o uso do sal –este ingrediente que Fogaça tanto celebra devia realçar os sabores e não mascará-los. Dois pratos foram prejudicados pelo excesso do tempero: a moqueca de badejo, envolta em creme de leite de coco, pimentões e azeite de dendê (R$ 52), e o rosado medalhão, com risoto de camembert e cogumelos puxados na frigideira com creme de leite e shoyu (R$ 83). Ah, os preços também são salgados. Sobremesas açucaradas são igualmente bem servidas (e cuidadas de perto). Um exemplo é o doce de banana com farofa da brasileira castanha-do-pará, ganache de chocolate amargo e chantilly de doce de leite (R$ 15). O balcão que circunda a cozinha, aberta, convida a um drinque (e a oferta é caprichada). Opções variadas de vinhos em taça e meia garrafa enriquecem a carta. Jamile QUANDO: DE TER. A SEX., DAS 19H À 0H; SÁB., DAS 12H À 0H, DOM., DAS 12H ÀS 18H ONDE: R. TREZE DE MAIO, 647, BEXIGA, TEL. (11) 2985-3005 | comida |
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] | Cerca de 1.500 cozinheiros, vários barmans, dezenas de sommeliers, aproximadamente 150 empresas relacionadas à produção de alimentos e vinhos e milhares de amantes da gastronomia vão participar do "Food And Wine in Progress", em Florença. A 28ª edição do evento acontecerá entre os dias 8 e 10 de novembro e apresentará o trabalho de vários profissionais do ramo da culinária, com cooking shows, degustações, debates e palestras. Organizada pelo Congresso Italiano dos Cozinheiros, a feira foi apresentada na terça-feira (3), na cidade, e é promovida pela Federação Italiana de Cozinheiros (FIC) e pela União Regional de Cozinheiros Toscanos (Urct), em parceria com a Associação Italiana de Sommeliers da Toscana. As maiores atrações dos três dias de evento são Niki Romito, Claudio Sadler, Igles Corelli, Mauro Uliassi, Enrico Derfingher, Filippo La Mantia, Igor Macchia, Giancarlo Perbellini e Paolo Teverini, entre outros. | comida |
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] | "O mais importante são as histórias e emoções em torno da comida", diz o chef Ivan Achcar no comecinho do livro "Quantidades Absurdas - Histórias com Sabor, Receitas com Afeto". O lançamento reúne receitas e relatos do chef, que comanda a cozinha do restaurante Alma e é jurado do programa "Cozinheiros em Ação", do canal GNT. Com uma maneira de escrever quase verbal, entre exclamações em "quantidades absurdas", o chef mescla expressões coloquiais e citações de "A Fisiologia do Gosto", de Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, e do "Manifesto Antropofágico", de Oswald de Andrade, para falar de gastronomia, cozinha crioula, popular e de boteco. "Resolvi fazer um livro de culinária para trazer inspiração com histórias e referências que servissem de base para o leitor/cozinheiro pensar e, a partir de uma reflexão, alicerçar sua cozinha. A receita acaba sendo uma coadjuvante", diz na obra. As receitas "coadjuvantes" contam com passo a passo detalhado, dicas e também sugestão de bebida para acompanha-las. Em "Quantidades Absurdas" (bordão do chef), Achcar ensina, por exemplo, o preparo de um "churrasco completo de praia" –que fez um amigo gostar de peixe–, de um quibe assado –que aprendeu a fazer com o pai quando ainda não tinha força suficiente para misturar a carne– e de bolovo –com gema dura porque não é "gourmet" (confira aqui a receita do bolinho de carne recheado com ovo cozido). "Boa comida não precisa ser gourmet. Aliás, não é. Quem gosta de comida boa é que pode reivindicar o adjetivo para si", diz o cozinheiro no livro. Quantidades Absurdas - Histórias com sabor, receitas com afeto Autor Ivan Achcar Editora Companhia Editora Nacional Quanto R$ 44,90 (152 págs.) | comida |
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] | O Feed vem se saindo muito bem em sua primeira -e principal- vocação: ser um açougue sofisticado concentrado em cortes de gado de produção própria. A boa notícia é que a casa abriu recentemente um pequeno espaço dedicado ao almoço executivo, tocado, até então, com o mesmo esmero. São oferecidos cortes rotativos -dois a cada dia- preparados na brasa, sobre uma grelha à vista do cliente. Ao ver o churrasqueiro, nota-se o cuidado que ele tem no manejo das brasas e, portanto, na missão (impossível) de domar o fogo. O resultado aparece no prato: as carnes são servidas no ponto pedido, saborosas e suculentas. A saber: o assado de tira, corte extraído da costela traseira do boi, tem sabor intenso e textura firme, sem perder certa umidade. O baby beef, naco do miolo da alcatra, chega à mesa com seu interior rosado e sumarento e um gostoso tostado na superfície. Para escoltar as carnes, um bufê enxuto: pode haver arroz branco (soltinho), feijão-preto (de caldo denso), folhas verdes (pena, pouco viçosas), salada de feijão-branco (este podia estar mais firme) e uma acertada salada de abobrinha, com tomate, pepino e pão, enriquecida com um caldo cítrico suave e perfumado. Que fique claro, no entanto, que o Feed não é um lugar de estar -embora a área do restaurante seja extremamente convidativa, com uma árvore em pleno salão, cuja copa é alta e separada dos clientes por um teto de vidro. Formou-se ali um sistema ideal para atender os executivos da região, com tempo curto para o almoço. É pá-pum. O almoço custa R$ 59 e inclui couvert (pão de alho macio e quentinho ou queijo coalho com mel, por exemplo), bufê, uma carne, bebida não alcoólica, sobremesa e café. Degusta-se esta "dupla saideira" num lounge (o mesmo que acolhe a espera) e paga-se o valor cravado no caixa -serviço e valet computados. FEED QUANDO: DE SEG. A SEX., DAS 12H ÀS 15H ONDE: R. DR. MARIO FERRAZ, 547, ITAIM BIBI; TEL. (11) 5627-4700 | comida |
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] | A melhor coisa do personagem de Bradley Cooper em "Pegando Fogo" são seus brilhantes olhos azuis. Seu Adam Jones é, aparentemente, um bom chef, mas sua arrogância e tendência para ataques explosivos dificilmente fazem valer a pena descobrir mais sobre ele, apesar de seus olhos. Jones é tão improvável que passar cem minutos com ele numa tela é tão desagradável quanto definhar sob uma refeição ruim –você só quer gentilmente ir embora e achar algo melhor. "Pegando Fogo" é ainda povoado por narrativas sem saída, diálogos truncados e um interesse romântico (Siena Miller) em que a personagem se comporta como nenhuma mulher real faria. Escrito por Steven Knight (A 100 passos de um sonho) e dirigido por John Wells (Álbum de Família), "Pegando Fogo" narra os esforços de Jones para restaurar sua carreira na gastronomia depois de uma fase de mal comportamento e retornar a um "status Michelin". O filme começa com o cozinheiro abrindo ostras em Nova Orleans. O trabalho é uma penitência e a voz de Jones explica: ele já foi um jovem e promissor chef com a oportunidade de comandar o restaurante de seu mentor, mas estraga seu futuro com drogas, infidelidade e um inflado senso de importância. Agora sóbrio e com foco renovado, Jones segue para Londres para se reconectar com antigos colegas e pressioná-los a trabalhar com ele. Ele encontra Michel (Omar Sy), que estranhamente explica para Jones exatamente como ele o enganou quando os dois trabalharam juntos anos atrás em Paris (ambos já não sabem disso?). Jones também encontra com a crítica de restaurante Simone (Uma Thurman), que lhe diz que ela dormiu com ele mesmo sendo lésbica. Mais uma vez: eles dois já não sabiam disso? Dizer isso em alto e bom som para o benefício da audiência parece estranho e inautêntico. As atuações são realistas o suficiente, mas é que as pessoas que se conhecem simplesmente não falam desse jeito. Depois, Jones trabalha para outro amigo do passado, o celebrado maître londrino d'Tony (Daniel Brül) e monopoliza seu restaurante. A atitude parece ainda mais vulgar quando fica claro, em sessões com uma terapeuta antiética (Emma Thompson), que Jones se aproveitou dos sentimentos românticos de Tony em relação a ele. Ainda mais irrealista é a personagem de Miller, Helene. Introduzida como uma talentosa chef revelação e mãe solteira devotada que trabalha em um restaurante concorrido, Helene sabe que Jones é um babaca assim que o conhece, mesmo assim, ela é atraída para sua cozinha por um salário muito maior. Essa parte faz sentido. Mas, apesar de Jones gritar com ela, depreciar suas habilidades, agarrá-la pela sua (sedutoramente solta) regata e dispensá-la por outra mulher em uma festa que ele a convidou para ir, Helene de repente se esquece de suas responsabilidades familiares e se apaixona por ele. Miller faz uma atuação sincera, mas calma lá. Esses lindos olhos não são tão mágicos assim. Cooper faz o que ele pode com Jones, mas não tem muito jeito de salvar esse cara de sua própria personalidade miserável. Em seu favor, a comida realmente parece gostosa em "Pegando Fogo". As beterrabas são brilhantes e as ovas chamativas. Uma salada de tomate parece uma pintura de natureza morta. A precisão e a beleza de um prato três-estrelas é uma arte, cuja criação claramente tem seu próprio ritmo e drama. Mas, a não ser que você queira um enorme ego e gritos que fazem o coração saltar, "Pegando Fogo" pode ser um prato para pular. | comida |
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] | O francês Vincent Vallée venceu na sexta-feira (30) o campeonato mundial do chocolate, organizado pela Cacao Barry durante o 21º Salão do chocolate de Paris, anunciou a filial da gigante suíça Barry Callebaut. "Esta é a primeira vez que um chef francês vence a competição", disse em um comunicado Cacao Barry, que organiza o World Chocolate Masters a cada dois anos desde 2005 na capital francesa. Aos 27 anos, Vincent Vallée sucede o italiano Davide Comaschi, coroado em 2013, e vai ostentar o título de "o melhor artesão chocolatier do mundo". Eleito o melhor aprendiz de Vendée (oeste) em 2006, ele dirige desde 2011 o laboratório de pâtisserie de Thierry Bamas, em Anglet (sudoeste). Enfrentando 19 concorrentes de todo o mundo, Vincent Vallée venceu o concurso com o tema "Inspiração da natureza", com uma escultura de mulher com rosto de felino e pele de zebra de 1,7 metro de altura, e uma gaiola para pássaros decorada. O japonês Hisashi Onobayashi ficou com a medalha de prata e o belga Marijn Coertjens terminou no terceiro degrau do pódio. | comida |
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] | Estão programadas para as próximas semanas duas atividades da segunda edição do projeto Comer é Mais sobre receitas indígenas e do sertão. Ambas serão realizadas no Sesc Belenzinho, em São Paulo. A primeira será um encontro no dia 12 de novembro com a escritora e especialista em educação paraibana Ana Rita Suassuna, que vai abordar a história e o preparo de pratos sertanejos tradicionais e falar sobre os ingredientes do sertão. Já no dia 21, das 11h às 13h, será realizado um bate-papo com o chef Ocílio Ferraz (Restaurante do Ocílio) sobre o hábito de comer içás, as formigas voadoras, a tradição de esperar a revoada e o método de coleta de algumas tribos indígenas do Vale do Rio Paraíba (SP) e do Nordeste. A programação é gratuita. SESC BELENZINHO Onde r. Padre Adelino, 1000, Belenzinho; tel. (11) 2076-9700; sescsp.org.br/belenzinho Quando encontro sobre receitas do sertão: quinta-feira (12), às 19h30 e bate-papo com Ocílio Ferraz: sábado (21), às 11h Quanto ambas atividades são gratuitas, inscrições antecipadas dia 03/11, terça, às 14h no estacionamento, as vagas são limitadas | comida |
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] | Um novo forno tecnológico promete identificar o que está sendo preparado, propor um plano de cozimento e ainda avisar ao usuário quando tudo estiver pronto –tudo isso por US$ 1.495 (o equivalente a R$ 5.878). O aparelho tem seu quê de computador: além de grelhas de fibra de carbono, ele vem com conexão wi-fi, processador de 2.3 GHz, tela sensível ao toque, sensores que pesam o alimento e até uma câmera de alta definição –que serve para identificar o alimento e filmar o processo de cozimento. As imagens são enviadas ao vivo, por streaming, para o smartphone do chef –um aplicativo permite, então, controlar o cozimento à distância. Por meio de uma espécie de termômetro, colocado no alimento, o forno indica a hora de aumentar ou diminuir a temperatura. E também pode, com base em informações dadas pelo usuário, pensar em um cardápio para um evento e já deixar pronta a lista de compras. A engenhoca, batizada de June, foi criada por um antigo engenheiro da Apple, Nikhil Bhogal, que trabalhou no desenvolvimento do iPhone e do iPad e inventou várias tecnologias de câmera patenteadas pela empresa fundada por Steve Jobs, como o "tap-to-focus" (clique para focar). O diretor-executivo e cofundador da June, Matt Van Horn, trabalhou na rede social Path. O June está disponível para pré-venda on-line desde junho, no site do produto. | comida |
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] | Um lugar de calor, pressão e violência: é assim o chef Adan Jones vê a cozinha. O personagem principal do filme Pegando Fogo, interpretado por Bradley Cooper, é um profissional obcecado por estrelas "Michelin". O longa-metragem, que estreará no Brasil em 10 de dezembro, retrata o mundo da alta gastronomia. Jones é um chef fora do mercado, que vive em Londres e trabalha abrindo ostras em um pequeno estabelecimento. No passado, causou sofrimento aos colegas do estrelado restaurante em que trabalhou, em Paris. Tentando se recuperar, ele vai atrás do maître Tony para tentar convencê-lo a retomar a parceria e conquistar uma terceira estrela. O filme dirigido por John Wells teve consultoria dos chefs e celebridades Gordon Ramsay e Marco Pierre White (brigados há anos). Os pratos foram elaborados por Marcus Wareing, do restaurante inglês Marcus. As cenas com chamas altas, molhos ferventes e facas afiadas, gravadas nas cozinhas, contaram com a participação de profissionais da gastronomia. Assista ao trailer legendado. | comida |
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] | O Brasil terá mais um restaurante do famoso chef britânico Jamie Oliver. Uma unidade de sua casa de receitas italianas, Jamie's Italian, será inaugurada no final do ano em Campinas, no interior paulista. Este será o segundo restaurante brasileiro com o nome do cozinheiro e apresentador de TV –o primeiro foi aberto em março em São Paulo e causou furor na cidade (a comida, no entanto, foi considerada regular pela crítica). O restaurante de Campinas será aberto no Parque D. Pedro Shopping, no Jardim Santa Genebra, e será comandado pelo chef Lisandro Lauretti, responsável também pela primeira casa, no Itaim Bibi. Para a abertura do restaurante em São Paulo foi realizado um trabalho de pesquisa de três anos. Isso porque Oliver tem uma longa lista de exigências em relação aos ingredientes. Mais de 80 substâncias, como glutamato e aspartame, são proibidas no restaurante –que também só usa carne de animais criados soltos. À época, todos os fornecedores foram visitados por Lauretti. Nas casas, o cardápio segue um padrão internacional, incluindo algumas receitas locais. Nesta segunda unidade as novidades do menu serão as receitas de pizza e o chope. Jamie's Italian Onde Parque D. Pedro Shopping (av. Guilherme Campos, 500, Jardim Santa Genebra, Campinas | comida |
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] | Apenas 25 comensais poderão experimentar um menu degustação preparado pela chef Niceise Ribeiro, que será servido no próximo dia 11 de novembro no bar Razzmatazz, localizado na Vila Madalena, zona oeste de São Paulo. O jantar exclusivo, em que apenas 20 convites serão comercializados (R$ 120; na plataforma digital Foodpass), foi batizado de "Trisco do Pará" e é formado por cinco pratos típicos da região. A escolha do menu paraense não é por acaso. Tanto os sócios do bar quanto a chef são do Estado da Região Norte. Para o jantar, a chef, nascida em Belém, criou um menu que mistura os pratos típicos paraenses, mas com o seu próprio toque contemporâneo. De entrada, os convivas poderão experimentar pato no tucupi e vatapá. O prato principal será pupunha com café, um nhoque de pupunha grelhada na manteiga de cumaru, sobrepaleta suína marinada na cerveja de cumaru com calda de café, creme de queijo do Marajó e espuma de café. Esse é o primeiro jantar promovido pelo bar Razzmatazz, cuja temática é o rock e a música indie britânica, inspirado na cidade inglesa de Manchester. PARA CONFERIR Trisco do Pará QUANDO 11/11 ONDE bar Razzmatazz (r. Wisard, 271) QUANTO R$ 120 | comida |
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] | À primeira vista, o Lambe-Lambe, dos mesmos donos do MoDi, próximo à praça Vilaboim, parece um ótimo programa. Tem preços animadores, pratos cheios de brasilidade, que nos falam ao coração só na leitura, um ambiente descontraído e alegre, com Elis Regina ao fundo. Tudo segue bem, dentro das expectativas, quando se mira no cardápio o caju amigo (R$ 18, com cachaça). É servido tinindo, com compota e nacos carnudos da fruta. Para acompanhar -e seguir em um bom caminho- pode-se pedir o trio de coxinhas cremosas (R$ 10). A coxa da asa, úmida, é banhada em um caldo de galinha de sabor concentrado, engrossado com farinha, e depois empanada. Também se sai bem a frigideira de jiló com linguiça ou fígado (R$ 13). Depois disso, uma sequência malsucedida: o ovo mole empanado (R$ 13) chega à mesa "ovo duro"; o cuscuz paulista (R$ 11) desmorona na primeira garfada -idem para o disco de fraldinha moída com mandioca (R$ 13), que não tem liga e está com o sal a todo o vapor. Aliás, o sal é um tema no Lambe-Lambe: usado sem a menor parcimônia, foi capaz de detonar alguns pratos. A exemplo, o frango ao meio na brasa (sem sinal daquele defumado gostoso; R$ 29). Tampouco emocionam o cupim na panela (no qual falta sumo; R$ 32), a chuleta (passada demais; R$ 44) e o feijão que vinha na escolta (ralo, pálido, quase triste). Recupera-se certa alegria com o tutu de feijão e a salada de feijão-fradinho, al dente, com leve acidez e a presença discreta e saborosa de coentro (R$ 6, a porção). Segue-se na trégua com a galinha caipira com quiabo e angu (R$ 33), que tem mais graça e nos é tão familiar. Na outra ponta, o açúcar também soa exagerado nas sobremesas. Mas, para amantes de doces bem doces, valem o brigadeirão e a cocada cremosa (R$ 11 cada um). O Lambe-Lambe também é, por ora, o restaurante do "tem, mas acabou". Em todas as ocasiões em que estive na casa, o "acabou" virou resposta padrão. Um banho de água fria. Lambe-Lambe ONDE: R. ARACAJU, 239, Higienópolis, tel. (11) 3473-9782 QUANDO: DE TER. A SAB, DAS 12H ÀS 23H; DOM., DAS 12H ÀS 17H | comida |
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] | Você já ouviu falar de picles de mamão? Talvez saiba fazer geleia de morango, mas e de cachaça? Toparia provar uma compota de abóbora-cabotiã ou uma conserva de pinhão? Pois essas são algumas das receitas reunidas pela banqueteira Gil Gondim no livro recém-lançado "Conservas do meu Brasil - Compotas, Geleias e Antepastos" (editora Senac). "As conservas são uma cultura do povo brasileiro, mas geralmente não estão nas grandes cidades, ficam mais restritas ao interior", diz ela, lembrando de tradições, por exemplo, da cozinha mineira. O livro tem 58 receitas –cerca de 60% delas são da família justamente mineira da banqueteira, hoje radicada em São Paulo. "Eu busquei o Brasil: temos frutas da Amazônia, do Nordeste, do cerrado... Ao fazer a pesquisa para o livro e por ter morado em lugares como Rondônia, vi que o brasileiro sabe aproveitar todos os frutos, não perder nada deles", conta. Em cada passo a passo, Gil dá dicas de uso e sugere alternativas de preparo, e, em muitos deles, lembra histórias de família, como que a reafirmar a tese de que as conservas são, sim, assunto de casa, "comfort food" de primeira. Além das receitas, o livro explica a diferença básica entre os tipos de conserva: uma compota é feita com calda de água, açúcar e especiarias; um doce tem os ingredientes processados e cozidos com açúcar, mas sem calda; a geleia demanda a presença de pectina, componente que dá brilho e gelificação; as conservas comuns levam apenas xarope ou, no caso das salgadas, salmoura ou vinagre; e os antepastos têm raiz italiana, sempre salgados. A maior surpresa talvez sejam as receitas que fogem do senso comum –e até o desafiam–, caso dos picles e conservas doces e das compotas de frutas menos populares. Gil conta que, de todas as receitas do livro, tem carinho especial pela geleia de jabuticaba ("um xodó da família"), pela compota de mangaba ("me surpreendi com a delicadeza da fruta quando a estudei") e pelo picles de pera ("divino!"). Clique aqui para ver a receita da compota de pera. * DICAS PARA PREPARAR SUA CONSERVA CONSERVAS DO MEU BRASIL AUTORA Gil Gondim EDITORA Senac São Paulo QUANTO R$ 69,90 (144 págs.) | comida |
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] | "A melhor comida do mundo é a da minha infância", diz a chef Ilda Vinagre, do A Bela Sintra, no título de um dos capítulos do livro "Saudade Tem Gosto". Pois foi exercitando a memória, lembrando de sabores e aromas, dos gostos da saudade, que ela baseou a obra, que será lançada nesta segunda-feira (26), em São Paulo. Nascida em Portugal, a chef autodidata aprendeu a cozinhar com a mãe, Palmira, dona de uma tasca em Marinhais –freguesia próxima ao rio Tejo, a pouco menos de 80 km da capital, Lisboa. Ela diz no livro que seus primeiros brinquedos foram as colheres, com as quais jogava ao lado da chaminé da cozinha da tasca, e que deve ter sido no colo da mãe que descascou as primeiras batatas. Mas só foi assumir uma cozinha depois de passar por empregos como o de faxineira e vendedora de perfumes. Sua primeira experiência para valer como cozinheira foi com o embaixador português nos EUA. Depois de seis anos na América, voltou ao país natal, onde montou casas como A Bolota, que conquistou estrelas "Michelin". Chegou ao Brasil em 2009, para assumir, a convite do restaurateur Carlos Bettencourt, o A Bela Sintra, casa de comida lusitana aberta em 2004 nos Jardins. Mais do que as idas e vindas profissionais, Ilda conta no livro, baseado em entrevistas que ela deu a Nilu Lebert, boas histórias. O nascimento das filhas, casos em que foi convidada a cozinhar em diferentes cidades do mundo, lembranças da infância... As histórias são permeadas por curtos ditados lusitanos e citações de autores de língua portuguesa, a exemplo de Gilberto Freyre, Mia Couto, Guimarães Rosa, José Saramago, Fernando Pessoa e Eça de Queiroz –deste, um trecho de "Crime do Padre Amaro": "A maçã está tão boa que parece ter sido cozida em água benta!" Ao final, 12 receitas de Ilda, como o bacalhau Fernando Pessoa, a coxa de pato ao vinho tinto, os belhoses (tipo de doce de abóbora) e o pudim de castanhas com calda de chocolate (clique aqui para ver o passo a passo). SAUDADE TEM GOSTO AUTORA Ilda Vinagre, em depoimento a Nilu Lebert EDITORA Melhoramentos QUANTO R$ 45 (208 págs.) LANÇAMENTO 26 de outubro, das 19h às 22h, no a bela Sintra (r. Bela Cintra, 2.325, Consolação) | comida |
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] | Para comemorar os três anos do restaurante Sakagura A1, no Itaim, o chef Shin Koike vai realizar dois eventos para oferecer ao público pratos típicos da culinária japonesa. O primeiro deles é uma edição especial do "Comida de Rua, né?", que o chef promove desde abril do ano passado, a ser realizado neste sábado (24). A 14a edição do evento terá quatro barracas, entre as 12h e as 20h: duas com pratos quentes –a exemplo de tendon (tempura de peixe amazônico) e do churrasco japonês–, um balcão de sushi e um de saquê e chás gelados. Depois, entre os dias 27 e 6 de novembro, Koike promove em seu restaurante a Temporada Umami, um cardápio elaborado por ele com um menu-degustação de cinco tempos (R$ 145 por pessoa). A refeição virá com um folheto explicativo sobre o tema dos pratos –a descoberta do umami, chamado de quinto sabor, além do doce, salgado, azedo e amargo– e poderá ser acompanhada de uma degustação de saquê, servida à parte. Entre os pratos servidos estão pargo grelhado com missô, saquê e kombu, barriga de porco cozida com shoyu e saquê, sushi e sashimi imami e, de sobremesa, sundae de creme de abóbora e sorvete de chá verde. Na degustação de saquê (R$ 40, além da refeição), o visitante poderá experimentar três doses de 60 ml da tradicional bebida japonesa. PARA CONFERIR Comida de Rua, né? ONDE restaurante Sakagura A1 (r. Jerônimo da Veiga, 74) QUANDO 24/10; das 12h às 20h QUANTO a partir de R$ 11 Temporada Umami ONDE restaurante Sakagura A1 QUANDO de 27/10 a 6/11 QUANTO a partir de R$ 145 por pessoa | comida |
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] | Uma fila histérica se formou em frente à Chácara Turma da Mônica (ex-Chácara Santa Cecília) na semana da inauguração, no final de setembro. Crianças excitadas, pais impacientes e uma horda de funcionários desorientados. A bagunça vazava inclusive para a rua. O serviço de manobrista não deu conta da demanda. O trânsito parou. Na primeira visita ao restaurante (o bufê varia de R$ 42 a R$ 89 e inclui recreação), enfrentei o perrengue. Em vão. Ao sentarmos à mesa, num jardim agradável (coisa rara em São Paulo), fomos ignorados pelos garçons -experiência que se repetiu nas demais visitas. Levantei e fui embora. Sem comer –e com uma criança de menos de dois anos no colo, também faminta e em transe absoluto, diante das réplicas gigantes dos personagens da Turma da Mônica. Mal sabia que estava saindo no crédito. A comida dali, exposta em bufê, é ruim. A começar pela presença massiva de frituras: minipastéis (murchos e borrachudos), batatas smile, nuggets, todos eles mornos ou frios. No restante da ala dos quentes, tudo brilha. Postas de peixe nadam no óleo, idem para as rodelas de linguiça, duras. Os filés de frango têm a vantagem de serem feitos na hora, mas são achatados contra a chapa com força e insistência: ficam ultrafinos e sem sumo algum. Há também uma tentativa de embalar itens como guacamole (pastoso, sem sinal de tempero) em tacos -mas estes estavam quebrados e a missão teve de ser abortada. Nem a couve se salva: gordurosa e amarelada. Bem, a bancada dos frios não é nenhum alento –sobretudo no jantar, quando fica mais mirrada. (Aliás, aqui, vale um parêntese: à noite, também parece haver um rodízio de pizzas incluído no preço. Quase uma hora na mesa, porém, e nenhuma pizza nos foi oferecida.) De volta aos frios: não há o básico. As folhas, por exemplo, são pálidas e mal-ajambradas. Uma "torta" detonada de ricota tinha em sua base um creme alaranjado. "O que é?", perguntei a um garçom. "Creme de cenoura", disse. Pois era cheddar. Também arrisquei provar um salpicão -seco e insosso. Entre os molhos, o de mostarda é um "deus-nos-acuda": denso e para lá de ácido, de amarrar a garganta. Fico me perguntando se a Magali iria encarar. Será? O atendimento não alivia em nada: os funcionários não sabem sequer informar quais itens são da Seara, marca que patrocina o espaço. E desaparecem ao longo das refeições. Surgem, vorazes, porém, no final do expediente, para limpar as mesas (em geral, uma zona –capitão Feio na área?) e fechar a casa. Encerram bruscamente a nossa refeição, e não sei se é uma grosseria ou um favor que nos fazem. Vamos todos para casa. Chácara Turma da Mônica QUANDO seg., de 12h30 às 15h30; ter. a sex., de 12h30 às 15h30 e das 18h às 22h; sáb., de 12h às 16h e das 18h às 22h; dom., das 9h às 11h30 e das 12h às 17h ONDE r. Ferreira de Araújo, 601, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 3034-6251 | comida |
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] | Entre sobremesas saborosas, verduras apetitosas e chefs com sorrisos de orelha a orelha, a Feira do Livro de Frankfurt tem elevado as obras de cozinha, uma aposta segura que se espalha como fogo. "Há 20 anos, os livros de culinária ficavam escondidos e eram destinados apenas aos especialistas", mas agora " as pessoas necessitam de consolo em um mundo cheio de crise e esses livros são uma forma de ficar alegre, de sonhar, de viajar", diz Edouard Cointreau, presidente da Gourmand World Cookbook Awards e especialista no setor. A feira de Frankfurt, principal encontro mundial de livros, que termina neste domingo (18), reservou um espaço maior à categoria, batizado de Gourmet Gallery. Nele, pode-se encontrar publicações sobre gastronomia do mundo inteiro, tanto russas quanto indonésias ou os segredos do chef francês Alain Ducasse. Há, ainda, a cozinha de Gaza ao lado dos manuais culinários de Israel. ENTUSIASMO NO IRÃ O frenesi por livros de receitas se estendeu a quase todos os países, entre eles o Irã. "Há cinco anos não era assim, mas agora ter livros de cozinha é algo popular", diz a chef Samira Janatdust. Janatdust foi a Frankfurt apresentar seus livros, apesar da decisão de Teerã de boicotar a feira, devido à presença do escritor indo-britânico Salman Rushdie, que recebeu do país uma sentença de morte –ou fatwa– em 1989, após a publicação de seu quinto livro, "Versos Satânicos". A obra foi descrita como uma blasfêmia contra o islamismo e o profeta Maomé. Conseguir se destacar no meio de tanta variedade é, por si só, um desafio. A espanhola Sofía Piqueras propõe fazer peças únicas, que decora com capas de pano feitas a mão e coloridas com especiarias ou ervas aromáticas. Há tendências que se generalizam. Os livros de receitas vegetarianas estão com vento em popa. A editoria Marabout conta com publicações populares, uma sobre sucos verdes e outra sobre a couve-de-folhas. "As pessoas também querem livros bonitos para exibir em suas cozinhas e folhear de vez em quando, diz Pixie Shields", membro da Marabout, um dos pesos-pesados do setor. "É como ter uma revista de moda bonita", mas estatisticamente, as pessoas cozinham apenas duas ou três receitas dos livros", reconhece. Entre as outras tendências, Edouard Cointreau destaca as obras temáticas, cada vez mais específicas, como as de confeitaria, de especialidades regionais e de iniciação para crianças. O mercado de livros de culinária avança graças ao estímulo da televisão e da internet. Concentra-se nas versões em papel, com poucas páginas digitais, e cresce entre 3% a 5% ao ano, segundo Cointreau. Mas há altos e baixos dependendo de cada país. Na França, por exemplo, o setor se estagnou nos últimos anos, assim como na Alemanha, ainda que siga representando as maiores vendas dentro dos chamados "livros de ajuda". | comida |
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] | Em um vale entre Belém e Jerusalém, palestinos estão usando uvas nativas para produzir vinhos finos no local que já abrigou uma igreja. E depois de décadas focando as vendas locais, a vinícola e monastério Cremisan tem oferecido aos visitantes uma experiência única, que combina vinho e história, destacando um alcance pacífico entre a agitação local. Monges italianos começaram e fazer vinho na Cremisan em 1885, e evidências arqueológicas mostram que a bebida já era produzida na região milhares de anos atrás. O monastério atual foi construído no terreno de uma igreja bizantina do século 7o. Por mais de um século, a Cremisan oferecia, sem alarde, vinhos de preços modestos a cristãos e judeus da região. Mas as vendas caíram depois das insurreições palestinas em 2000, a repressão israelense e a doença do monge que por décadas esteve no comando da produção da bebida. Por um tempo, o futuro da vinícola pareceu em xeque. Cerca de dez anos atrás, "havia muitos problemas, certamente", diz Della Shenton, responsável pela distribuição do Cremisan no Reino Unido. Mas as coisas começaram a melhorar em 2008, quando Riccardo Cotarella, um dos mais respeitados enólogos italianos fez um compromisso de longo prazo para ajudar a marca. Cotarella focou nas únicas uvas locais –as brancas hamdani e jandali– no lugar da chardonnay, e no vinho tinto feito com a baladi asmar, não merlot. "Agora vemos uma diferença tremenda", diz Shenton. "Vemos uma enorme melhora na qualidade". No ano passado, o famoso restaurante londrino Ottolenghi –cujos donos são israelenses e palestinos– escolheu o Star of Bethlehem da Cremisan, feito com um blend de hamdani e jandali, como seu vinho do mês. O mesmo rótulo rendeu elogios de Jancis Robinson, autor de "The Oxford Companion to Wine". Em uma tarde no meio de setembro, um ônibus turístico com visitantes ingleses chegou à Cremisan, e alguns noruegueses chegaram de táxi. Todos foram recebidos por três cristãos palestinos que trabalham para preservar a histórica cultura vinícola, que emprega muitos locais. Um dos visitantes ingleses ficou impressionado. "É suave e seco, um vinho de qualidade, surpreendentemente bom", disse Andrew Strachan. Uma chave do plano de longo prazo da Cremisan foi produzir pensando em palestinos. O enólogo Laith Kokaly, 29, da comunidade vizinha de Beit Jala, diz que seu avô fazia vinho em casa, e que muitos cristãos locais têm uma herança similar. Fadi Batarseh, 24, de Jerusalém oriental, é um dos especialistas da Cremisan, e outro jovem de Belém tem ajudado com o marketing. Kokaly e Batarseh passaram, cada um, três anos na Itália estudando a produção de vinhos com o apoio de Cotarella. Quem visita a Cremisan também observa como a região era em tempos antigos. Terraços de pedra, vinhedos e oliveiras com centenas de anos revestem as colinas, e um dos jardins exibe prensas para azeite e vinho encontradas próximo dali. A vinícola também desconstrói alguns preconceitos sobre o Oriente Médio. Palestinos cristãos e muçulmanos trabalham juntos nos vinhedos, e assim o fizeram por décadas, e o funcionário mais antigo do local é muçulmano (ele não bebe). Os lucros da empresa ajudam a financiar programas para órfãos e jovens da região. Mas a política da região também teve efeitos. Grupos de igrejas de todo mundo se opuseram a um plano de Israel de expandir uma barreira ao longo do vale, dizendo que isso forçaria a retirada de 58 famílias das terras ancestrais de suas famílias. Depois de anos de disputa, o caso foi levado à Suprema Corte israelense, e a construção do muro foi iniciada em agosto. Israel diz que ele é necessário por motivos de segurança. Os trabalhadores da vinícola buscam uma solução pacífica. A empresa tem agora um distribuidor nos EUA pela primeira vez, uma loja de lembranças e uma nova página no Facebook. * MONASTÉRIO E VINÍCOLA CREMISAN A cerca de 15 minutos de táxi do centro de Jerusalém e um pouco menos a partir de Belém (negocie o preço com antecedência, e cheque as condições de segurança na região em tempos de conflito). A Cremisan também ajuda a fazer o traslado a partir dos hotéis. A loja fica aberta de segunda a sexta, das 8h30 às 15h30, e aos sábados fecha às 11h45. A maior parte dos vinhos custa 33 shekels novos (R$ 33). A empresa também produz aguardentes envelhecidos, vinhos sacramentais e azeite de oliva. Para tours pela propriedade, reserve com ao menos dois ou três dias de antecedência. Grupos também podem agendar uma conversa com um dos monges salesianos no monastério. | comida |
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] | Há muitas ideias a se digerir em uma nova exposição de arte em Nova York. "The Value of Food: Sustaining a Green Planet" (o valor da comida: sustentando um planeta verde) explora a produção e o acesso a alimentos, o ambiente e a agricultura sustentável, entre outros assuntos relacionados. A exposição multimídia foi aberta na semana passada, na catedral Saint John the Divine, que tem um longo histórico de destacar importantes temas contemporâneos por meio das artes e diálogos com a comunidade. A mostra conta com 30 artistas, cujos trabalhos estão instalados nas sete capelas e 14 nichos da catedral. Está dividida em sete temas: água, solo, semente, fazenda, mercado, refeição e desperdício. "Conforme você caminha pela catedral, a arquitetura leva você por um círculo até a saída, então é quase como o ciclo da comida", diz o curador Robin Kahn, que organizou a exibição com o historiador Kirby Gookin. O objetivo é fazer com que as pessoas "pensem em como a comida é feita, onde ela é cultivada, quem a produz, em como ela é processada, vendida, preparada e, no final, o que acontece com o desperdício e como reciclar tudo isso", afirma Kahn. Alguns dos artistas são ambientalistas; outros focam as intersecções entre comida e arte ou ciência e arte. A maior peça exibida, de Tom Otterness, consiste de três mesas de piquenique em uma fileira de 11,5 metros, abarrotadas de cenas caóticas: uma figura humana quebrada, uma moeda do tamanho de um prato dividida como uma pizza, um globo rachado pendurado em uma polia. O trabalho, de 1986, já foi interpretado como uma civilização em declínio e como símbolo da gula, mas seu significado é definido pelo espectador. "Temptation" (tentação), do coletivo de Los Angeles Fallen Fruit, dos artistas David Burns e Austin Young, é uma alegoria do Jardim do Éden, um local de abundância no qual "você não conseguiria viver sem", diz Burns. O tríptico, que ocupa três nichos da catedral, inclui a expulsão de Adão e Eva do paraíso. Burns e Young, que mapeara árvores frutíferas em propriedades públicas de áreas urbanas ao redor do mundo, plantaram sete macieiras no jardim da catedral. "Talvez possamos transformar cidades em locais de abundância, plantando árvores frutíferas em espaços públicos, de forma a ninguém passar fome", diz Burns. O artista Pascal Bernir retrata a produção industrial de alimentos e o tratamento inumano a que animais são submetidos. Seu trabalho não parece mais do que uma grande caixa branca, até que você espie o interior. Espelhos ampliam as condições de aperto de dois leitõezinhos taxidermizados. Tattfoo Tan procura, em latas de lixo, por comida descartada que teoricamente passou da validade ou tem imperfeições. Ele a desidrata e a armazena como refeições prontas. Sua obra mostra sacos fechados a vácuo sobre malas de viagem ao lado de um painel com técnicas de sobrevivência que ele ensina a crianças em escolas da Filadélifa, como costura e a montagem de fogueiras. No altar principal está a escultura "Extinct Birds" (pássaros extintos), de Christy Rupp, feita com fragmentos de ossos de frango coletados em latas de lixo de restaurantes, "o emblema do consumismo materialista de hoje". Imagens em preto e branco do projeto "The Geography of Poverty" (a geografia da pobreza), do fotojornalista Matt Black, são mostradas na cerca exterior da catedral. Ele viajou pelos Estados Unidos retratando gente que trabalha com comida e os efeitos devastadores da mudança do clima. Kahn espera que a mostra encoraje os visitante a "olhar para a comida de uma nova maneira, mais benéfica não só para eles, mas também para o planeta". Workshops, palestras e outros eventos paralelos estão programados para serem realizados durante a exposição, que acaba no dia 3 de abril. É uma maneira de "começar uma conversa que precisa continuar", segundo o decano da catedral, o reverendo James Kowalski. | comida |
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] | O chef André Mifano acaba de deixar a sociedade e o comando da cozinha do restaurante Vito, em São Paulo. Há sete anos na Vila Beatriz, a casa abriu em um imóvel minúsculo com a proposta de preservar as raízes da cozinha italiana. É sugestivo, portanto, seu nome de batismo, que toma emprestado o do protagonista do clássico "O Poderoso Chefão", Don Vito Corleone. Ao longo dos anos, porém, o chef passou a imprimir nova identidade à cozinha, que hoje, já num imóvel maior, na mesma vizinhança, está em desacordo com as origens –e com a tradição que os sócios remanescentes pretendem manter por ali. No início, era motivo de orgulho para Mifano cravar que o restaurante importava a maior parte dos ingredientes da Itália. Com o passar do tempo, o discurso mudou: o que ele queria era usar tudo que fosse possível da nossa terra. É nessa sintonia, inclusive, que o chef está ao investir forças em um novo projeto, que prevê abrir até abril do ano que vem. "Quero trabalhar com o produto e com os produtores, sem uma nacionalidade como bandeira. A cozinha do Vito já está consolidada e irá manter o lado mais tradicional", diz à Folha. Prestes a iniciar as gravações da segunda temporada do programa "The Taste Brasil", que irá ao ar em março do ano que vem pelo GNT, com os "cariocas" Claude Troisgros e Felipe Bronze, Mifano também prevê cozinhar em parceria com outros chefs. "Estou há sete anos no Vito, nunca tive tempo de fazer parcerias. Também vou continuar meus experimentos com carnes e embutidos." Estes, é claro, marcarão presença na nova casa do chef, que, segundo ele, terá "preços acessíveis, cardápio simples, sem menu-degustação". Sua ideia é aprofundar o trabalho que vinha fazendo no Vito, apoiado no aproveitamento total dos ingredientes. Pode-se tomar o tronco como um emblema dessa nova linha. Trata-se de um prato no qual ele mescla os produtos em suas várias fases. "Posso usar, por exemplo, uma cenoura fresca, que chegou no dia, e suas folhas fermentadas ou picles. Um rabanete fresco e folhas de rabanete defumadas, que chegaram um mês atrás." Ao lado de Mifano, também deixa a casa sua sócia-gerente, Ana Cândida Ferraz. | comida |
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] | A cerca de duas semanas de seu fim, a Expo Milão 2015 sediará, no próximo domingo (18), uma nova tentativa de entrar para o "Guinness", o livro dos recordes: a de fazer a maior baguete do mundo. Para isso, a feira universal receberá a ajuda da companhia Ferrero, que contribuirá com todo o famoso creme de avelãs Nutella necessário para rechear o longo pão. O atual recorde é de um supermercado do Vietnã, que conseguiu produzir uma baguete de 111 metros de comprimento. Levando isso em conta, a equipe da Expo tentará assar uma baguete de pelo menos 120 metros. A partir das 9h30 do domingo (5h30 no horário de Brasília), um time composto por 20 padeiros italianos e sete franceses produzirá o pão conforme a receita original. O processo deve durar aproximadamente seis horas. No mês passado, a Nutella já havia ajudado a Expo Milão 2015 a quebrar outro recorde: o de criar o café da manhã mais "internacional" do mundo, com a participação de 55 países. | comida |
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] | O Sirha Rio, a versão brasileira de um dos maiores eventos do mundo de hotelaria e gastronomia, começa nesta quarta-feira (14) no Rio de Janeiro. Essa é a primeira vez que o salão será realizado na América do Sul. O evento é gratuito, mas, para participar, é preciso fazer o credenciamento no site oficial. Apenas estudantes e profissionais da área podem se inscrever. O Sirha no Rio contará com 80 expositores e marcas de produtos e serviços, além de produtos regionais brasileiros e empresas estrangeiras presentes no Brasil pela primeira vez. Além dos expositores, haverá concursos gastronômicos como o Bocuse D'Or, que terá o comando do chef Laurent Suaudeau, e a Coupe Du Monde de La Patisserie, presidida pelo chef Philippe Brye. O Bocuse d'Or foi criado em 1987 pelo francês Paul Bocuse, um dos mentores de Claude Troisgros e um dos chefs mais importantes da história da gastronomia. A melhor colocação que o Brasil já teve no Bocuse d'Or foi o décimo lugar, em 1997, conquistado pelo piauiense Naim dos Santos. Por falta de incentivo e financiamento, o Brasil nem sequer competiu nas edições de 2011 e deste ano. Haverá ainda o Sirha World Cuisine Summit, um debate sobre as próximas tendências da gastronomia no mundo. Segundo a organização, cerca de 10 mil visitantes profissionais são esperados no evento. O Sirha Rio segue os passos do Sirha Lyon, a versão principal do evento, que aconteceu em janeiro e recebeu 189 mil profissionais do setor. PARA CONFERIR Sirha Rio QUANDO de 14/10 a 16/10; das 10h às 19h ONDE Centro de Convenções SulAmérica (Av. Paulo de Frontin, 1) Rio de Janeiro QUANTO gratuito; precisa de credenciamento no site oficial | comida |
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] | Luís da Câmara Cascudo (1898-1986) foi um sujeito erudito que encheu cadernos de notas, observou os costumes do brasileiro sem trégua, ouviu escravos de "inesgotáveis recordações", leu vagarosamente receitas escritas à mão. Considerado um dos mais importantes pesquisadores da cultura popular brasileira –e por que diabos tão restrito ao universo acadêmico?–, Cascudo vira personagem central de duas grandes ações culturais, uma exposição e uma série documental de TV. A mostra "O Tempo e Eu (e Vc)" homenageia sua vida e obra a partir de terça (20), no Museu da Língua Portuguesa, em São Paulo. "O grande legado de Cascudo foi registrar a vida das pessoas e valorizar brasis invisíveis", diz o curador Gustavo Wanderley. Em 600 m2, arma-se um passeio sinestésico pela infância do autor, pelas tradições orais ligadas às lendas e aos mitos (eis o saci, o lobisomem), pelos gestos (o aperto de mãos, o abraçar), pelas festas (e o corpo do brasileiro que "não precisou aprender a dançar"), pelas fés. E, bem, sempre seduzido pela alimentação, ainda caminha-se pelas práticas culinárias. Já dizia ele, "o alimento contém substâncias imponderáveis e decisivas para o espírito, a alegria, a disposição criadora, o bom humor". O módulo "todo trabalho do homem é por sua boca" parte da obra "A História da Alimentação no Brasil", um calhamaço de quase mil páginas reconhecido como referência. Foi nesse tratado que Cascudo esmiuçou a contribuição que os índios, os portugueses e os africanos deram à formação da nossa cozinha nacional. "Na época, foi bastante inovador. Cascudo tentou entender como essas três grandes etnias ajudaram a definir o paladar brasileiro", diz João Luiz Maximo, historiador e também curador do módulo. É essa mesma obra, calcada na miscigenação alimentar, que o cineasta paulistano Eugênio Puppo toma emprestada para dar caldo a uma série documental para TV, cuja produção começa em fevereiro e tem lançamento previsto para 2017. "Cascudo foge à regra dos grandes intelectuais. Ele era um bom prosador, ia à feira, conversava com as pessoas. É esse clima do dia a dia do brasileiro que queremos trazer na série", diz Puppo. SUBSTITUIR, INCORPORAR Na mostra no Museu da Língua Portuguesa, um cenário traz 126 tábuas de madeira a girar no próprio eixo, nas quais são apresentadas imagens e trechos do "cardápio indígena", da "ementa portuguesa" e da "dieta africana". Entra-se em contato, por exemplo, com rituais indígenas que celebram bebidas derivadas da mandioca, raiz que recebeu "registro laudatório de todos os cronistas" desde o início da posse da terra. "Também vamos tratar de dois conceitos caros, a substituição e a incorporação", diz Gustavo Wanderley. Para ilustrá-los, toma-se como modelo a doçaria portuguesa, já centenária quando o açúcar apareceu, antes calcada no mel de abelhas à semelhança do que se fazia na Antiguidade clássica. No contato com as frutas tropicais, troca-se o marmelo pela goiaba, por exemplo, mas o modo de cocção, nos tachos de cobre, permanece. Houve rápida incorporação de costumes portugueses –ainda tão contemporâneos–, como "oferecer alimentos na alegria do convívio, comer juntos", registrou Cascudo. "O português sempre fez caldos e cozidos. Aqui, ele encontra a farinha de mandioca, feita com tecnologia indígena e a incorpora nos preparos. Nasce, assim, o pirão", explica o curador. Para Mara Salles, uma das mais icônicas cozinheiras da culinária nacional em São Paulo, a obra de Cascudo propiciou "um olhar mais aprofundado sobre o homem e sobre o ambiente". "Eu entrei na gastronomia um pouco pela antropologia, um pouco pela farra. E sempre fui meio cerebral com a comida." Roberta Sudbrack, da casa homônima no Rio, valoriza ingredientes vulgarizados do nosso dia a dia, e, assim, busca estar em contato com as cozinheiras anônimas do Brasil, com as quais mantém identidade, tal qual Cascudo fez. "Sua obra é fundamental para qualquer um de nós porque até hoje nos identifica." Oxalá seu trabalho possa, enfim, estar mais próximo dos brasileiros, e que os brasileiros, portanto, possam se conhecer melhor. O TEMPO E EU (E VC) QUANDO estreia ter. (20); de ter. a dom., das 10h às 18h (bilheteria fecha as 17h); até 14/02/2016 ONDE Museu da Língua Portuguesa, praça da Luz, s/nº, tel. (11) 3322-0080 QUANTO R$ 6 (grátis aos sábados) | comida |
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] | Uma bebida indígena derivada da mandioca, esta musa que Câmara Cascudo batizou de "rainha do Brasil", nomeia um minúsculo restaurante aberto em Pinheiros há três meses, o Caxiri. A mandioca surge celebrada ali também em frações do cardápio –enxutíssimo, com três opções de prato no jantar (mais porções para compartilhar) e um no almoço, rotativo, feito com o que se pinça de mais fresco no mercado. Um exemplo dessa homenagem é o intenso ceviche no tucupi (R$ 32), caprichado no coentro –ame ou odeie. Aqui, o caldo da mandioca-brava, com leve dulçor e acidez reforçada pelo limão, é servido frio –em contraste com as receitas populares, como pato no tucupi, em que é quente. No escondidinho (R$ 34), a carne de sol, macia, combinada com cebola caramelizada, chega à mesa encoberta por uma camada generosa de mandioca –até desproporcional, eu diria. Amassada grosseiramente, tem textura preservada (e dá para morder). Em sua cozinha autoral, Debora Shornik deixa transparecer ensinamentos de Paola Carosella, com quem trabalhou ao longo de anos. Brilha o respeito pelo ingrediente no estado bruto, com seus sabores conservados. E há ali uma delicadeza recorrente, em harmonia com o atendimento da sócia Daniela Maia –e por que não com o salão, de tijolo aparente, embalado até por Luiz Tatit? Ambas moraram na Amazônia e, no Caxiri, proporcionam certo contato com um Brasil profundo, embora por vias contemporâneas, mas não só. O pudim de leite (R$ 12) podia chamar a atenção só pela cremosidade (sem furinho). Mas a calda densa que o envolve ganha toques de cravo e canela com puxuri –semelhante à noz-moscada. Não passe batido pelo mojito de bacuri (R$ 15). E, se quiser mais emoção, prove a cachaça de jambu, a erva do Norte que tem a magia de causar dormência na língua. Sua flor, aliás, ainda mais potente, enriquece a amanteigada mozarela de búfala, com pimenta-cambuci assada. (LF) | comida |
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] | A companhia aérea JetBlue Airways está tentando trazer um pouco do campo para a cidade com a abertura de uma "fazenda" no aeroporto internacional John F. Kennedy, em Nova York. O espaço de 2.000 m2 –cerca de um quarto de um campo de futebol– ao lado do terminal 5 do aeroporto foi pensado para educar viajantes, mais do que alimentá-los de fato. Ainda que, eventualmente, a JetBlue intenda servir itens plantados ali nos restaurantes do terminal e até preparar chips servidos nos voos. Um dia, se o aeroporto permitir, pode até haver animais, como abelhas e borboletas. O objetivo é tentar ensinar as pessoas sobre o cultivo de vegetais e melhorar a aparência no exterior do terminal. "Sabemos que as pessoas gostam de áreas verdes –é o que elas têm em casa. Por que não colocá-las também no aeroporto, se é o que elas gostam e querem?", diz Sophia Leonora Mendelsohn, chefe de sustentabilidade da companhia aérea de Nova York. "Sua experiência de voo começa em solo". Construir uma fazenda em um aeroporto não é simples: a JetBlube precisou de três anos para obter a aprovação do projeto. Aeroportos têm grande preocupação com qualquer coisa que atraia animais selvagens, especialmente pássaros. Isso significa que não poderão ser cultivados tomates, milho, frutas vermelhas, sementes ou girassóis no jardim. (A empresa originalmente queria plantar trigo e usá-lo em uma cerveja, batizada de JetBlue JFK.) Em vez disso, a JetBlue priorizou batatas, cebolinhas, manjericão, cenouras e outras plantas consideradas seguras. A empresa espera cultivar 1.000 mudas de batata, para colher quase 500 quilos a cada quatro ou seis meses, além de outras 1.100 mudas de plantas como hortelã, rúcula, beterraba, alho, cebola e espinafre. O projeto foi feito em parceria com a GrowNYC, grupo ambiental sem fins lucrativos que busca ajudar os bairros de Nova York. Algumas das ervas e produtos serão usados pelos restaurantes no terminal da JetBlue, outros serão doados a bancos de alimentos locais. Todas as mudas são cultivadas em caixotes plásticos de leite parafusados uns aos outros e presos a ganchos no chão. A estrutura foi desenhada para suportar ventos de até 260 km/h, outra exigência do operador do aeroporto, a Autoridade Portuária de Nova York e Nova Jersey. Nos primeiros meses, a fazenda ficará fechada ao público. Na primavera [do hemisfério norte], após a aprovação de vários órgãos, a JetBlue espera iniciar programas educacionais para estudantes. No futuro, a empresa prevê permitir a seus viajantes que visitem o local antes dos voos. Um dos patrocinadores do projeto é a Hain Celestial, que produz os salgadinhos Terra Chips, servidos nos voos da JetBlue desde o lançamento da companhia, em fevereiro de 2000 –no ano passado, mais de 5,7 milhões de pacotinhos de 300 gramas foram distribuídos. Jared Simon, diretor sênior de marketing da Hain Celestial, diz que o projeto já tem mudas de um tipo de batata azul –o Adirondack– que eventualmente poderá ser usada nos chips servidos a bordo –desde que a safra atenda aos padrões de amido, açúcar e umidade. São necessárias de uma a três batatas para cada saquinho de Terra Chips. Não há maneira de a diminuta fazenda do aeroporto fornecer um número de batatas suficiente. Com sorte, talvez renda algo para menos de 1% da demanda. | comida |
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] | Após ter sido ultrapassada pela França em 2014, a Itália voltou a ocupar o posto de principal país produtor de vinho no mundo. Em 2015, as vinícolas italianas fabricaram 48,8 milhões de hectolitros da bebida (cada hectolitro equivale a 100 litros), contra 46,45 milhões das francesas. Em terceiro lugar ficou a Espanha, com 36,6 milhões. Itália e França brigam todos os anos pela liderança no setor, e a diferença entre as duas nações costuma ser determinada por fatores climáticos. Em 2014, por exemplo, uma condição particularmente desfavorável derrubou a produção italiana, enquanto em 2015 ocorreu exatamente o contrário. Neste ano, por causa de um tempo mais seco do que o habitual, a colheita de uvas caiu 1% na França, mas se aproveitou de uma situação melhor na Itália e cresceu 13% no país. | comida |
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] | Parte da safra de vinhos espanhóis deste ano sairá não de uvas, mas do extrato de lã de ovelha, de peras e até de couro. Os componentes fazem parte da lista de matérias-primas que o atual melhor restaurante do mundo está usando para criar suas próprias bebidas alcoólicas. O restaurante espanhol Celler de Can Roca, que lidera o ranking da revista britânica "Restaurant", uma espécie de Oscar da gastronomia mundial, anunciou nesta terça-feira (6) o ambicioso projeto de elaborar vinho a partir "de qualquer produto que imaginarmos", disse Joan Roca, um dos três irmãos à frente da casa. "É um mundo maravilhoso no qual estamos entrando. Podemos fazer qualquer coisa e estamos só começando", anunciou o chef durante o Gastronomika, um dos principais encontros da alta gastronomia mundial, que acontece até esta quarta-feira (7) em San Sebastián, no norte da Espanha. As bebidas estão sendo elaboradas em um centro de pesquisa e treinamento criado pelos irmãos Roca em uma casa a poucos metros de seu restaurante, que fica em Girona, cidade da Catalunha, região do nordeste da Espanha. O processo consiste em extrair aromas e líquidos de produtos comestíveis, como peras, pêssegos, figos e plantas, e não comestíveis, como madeira e couro, e chegar a bebidas que serão servidas no Celler de Can Roca ou ainda usadas como aromas ou caldos dentro de pratos do menu degustação da casa desta temporada. A única limitação, disse Joan Roca, é que sejam usados apenas produtos regionais. E a ideia já não é apenas utopia: durante sua palestra no Gastronomika, Joan Roca serviu a cerca de 500 participantes um vinho que chamou de figomel, elaborado com uma variação local de figo misturada a mel e pólen de abelhas. A reportagem da Folha estava no grupo e provou a nova bebida, que tem forte aroma e acidez. Para chegar ao figomel, os irmãos Roca fermentaram os ingredientes durante quase quatro semanas a 20ºC. A equipe do La Masia, nome dado ao centro de pesquisa do Celler de Can Roca, também já conseguiu extrair aroma de lã de ovelhas, cuja criação é muito comum no centro e no norte da Espanha. Ao ser um produto originalmente não-comestível, no entanto, o processo foi mais complexo. Os irmãos Roca e sua equipe maceraram a lã previamente limpa a vácuo por duas horas a 45ºC, misturando-a com álcool. Filtraram, destilaram a vácuo a 50ºC e separaram a parte solvente do álcool. Extraíram então o líquido da parte da gordura da lã. Por enquanto, a bebida é servida com uma sobremesa feita de doce de leite, purê de goiaba e iogurte, requeijão e espuma de leite de ovelha. Embora o mundo dos vinhos seja um dos três pilares do Celler de Can Roca –Joan Roca cuida dos pratos; seu irmão mais velho, Josep, da elogiada adega da casa; e o caçula Jordi cria as sobremesas– o ambicioso projeto dos três irmãos surpreendeu chefs e especialistas presentes no Gastronomika, que têm apontado tendência de chefs a criarem seus próprios vinhos. Só não esperavam que alguém fosse (muito) além da uva. A jornalista viajou a convite do Escritório de Turismo da Espanha. | comida |
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] | Entrar no Arimbá, na Pompeia, é mais do que estar em um novo restaurante. Ali surge um passeio simples e saboroso pelas raízes da cozinha paulista, que remonta à história dos tropeiros e dos bandeirantes, cujo receituário permaneceu mais bem conservado em Minas Gerais. O próprio ambiente amadeirado, despretensioso, com fogão a lenha, estimula o imaginário, como se estivéssemos a ler os escritos de Antonio Candido sobre a vida caipira. Aqueles que perpassam o café fervido na garapa, o alimento conservado na banha de porco, a presença inequívoca do feijão, que "vai bem com todas as misturas". No Arimbá, é a chef capixaba Angelita Gonzaga, afeita a essa culinária desde os tempos em que esteve à frente do Garimpos do Interior, que nos acolhe com uma cozinha calorosa, farta e a bons preços. São geralmente porções para dividir, servidas em panelas de ferro. Cachaças ou as várias versões de limonada (tão interiorano isso, né?) podem escoltar petiscos que celebram o milho, como os pastéis de angu (massa de lamber os beiços, mas deveras oleosa; R$ 31,50) e os bolinhos de farinha, galinha e queijo da Canastra (crocantes, mas congelados no miolo; R$ 29,50). Na sequência, pratos para compartilhar. Eis o ensopado de feijão-manteiga com costela bovina a desmanchar (R$ 42,50), a bisteca, com ovos de gema mole (R$ 39,90), e a chuleta bovina –seca e insossa (R$ 42,50). Para acompanhar, vão bem o arroz carreteiro, úmido, enriquecido com charque e rodelas de banana-da-terra tostadas (R$ 39,50), e o guandu tropeiro, com feijão-guandu (que se assemelha a ervilha), bacon, linguiça, couve, ovos e farinha de milho pilada. E, bem, ainda que a comida não seja irreparável, o projeto de recuperar (e comemorar) essa cozinha quase esquecida merece os louros. Arimbá QUANDO: TER. A SEX., DAS 16H ÀS 23H; SÁB. E DOM., DAS 12H ÀS 18H ONDE: R. MIN. FERREIRA ALVES, 464-B, POMPEIA; TEL. (11) 3477-7063 | comida |
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] | Um número recorde de 76 restaurantes de Nova York amealharam as cobiçadas estrelas "Michelin", liderados por diversos aclamados restaurantes japoneses e lugares da mora fora de Manhattan, consolidando a reputação da "Big Apple" como um destino gourmet global. Na 11a edição de seu guia de restaurantes de Nova York, lançada na semana passada, a Michelin concedeu estrelas a três restaurantes a mais do que na edição anterior. "O número impressionante de estilos de cozinha, um total de 61, encontrados em todas as cinco regiões, confirma a posição de Nova York como um dos destinos gastronômicos mais excitantes do mundo", disse Michael Ellis, diretor internacional dos guias "Michelin", em comunicado. O "Michelin" deu três estrelas, sua máxima distinção, por "cozinhas excepcionais, que valem uma viagem especial", aos mesmos seis restaurantes da edição do ano passado: Eleven Madison Park, Jean-Georges, Le Bernardin, Masa e Per Se, todos em Manhattan, e o Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, no Brooklyn. A próxima "linhagem" de restaurantes da cidade, aos quais foram concedidas duas estrelas, por suas "excelentes cozinhas, que valem um desvio", cresceu de nove para dez, com a adição do The Modern, parte do famoso MoMA, o museu de Arte Moderna. Na categoria de uma estrela, destinada aos "restaurantes muito bons em sua categoria", o "Michelin" nomeou dez novidades. Isso levou o número de casas uma-estrela em Nova York a 60, duas a mais do que no ano passado. Quatro desses estreantes oferecem comida japonesa, incluindo Cagen, Hirohisa e Tempura Matsui, por transformar o tempura em "uma forma de arte", enquanto o Sushi Yasuda recebeu a comenda por seus sushis "exemplares". O último guia também exibiu o número crescente de restaurantes de qualidade fora da ilha de Manhattan. O Brooklyn é sede de mais dois restaurantes uma-estrela, com distinções ao vegetariano Semilla e ao The Finch, por sua abordagem da cozinha americana. "A seleção deste ano confirma o dinamismo da cena culinária em todos os bairros, notadamente o Brooklyn e o Queens", disse Ellis. Somtum Der, Gabriel Kreuther, Uncle Boons e Rebelle foram as outras novas casas laureadas com uma estrela. | comida |
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] | Instalada em um teatro no sul de Londres, "Mazi Mas" é um restaurante que se declara feminista e que busca a integração na sociedade britânica de sete cozinheiras imigrantes, entre elas quatro latino-americanas. "Queremos dar poder às mulheres invisíveis de todo o mundo", resumiu a brasileira Roberta Sião, com as mãos submersas em maracujás. A carioca de 43 anos, que comanda a cozinha do restaurante, explica como "sem contatos, nem rede de apoios ou experiência" não conseguia encontrar trabalho no Reino Unido, apesar de seus diplomas e anos de experiência como funcionária de banco no Brasil. Depois de alguns anos em casa criando seu filho, seu encontro com a fundadora do Mazi Mas foi determinante. "Mazi Mas foi para mim uma verdadeira ponte que me permitiu passar de um isolamento total para o regresso ao mundo do trabalho, dos encontros e das oportunidades", explicou. Além de Sião, há outras três latino-americanas nos fogões de Mazi Mas: as peruanas Marlith Tenazoa e Susana Urteaga e a nicaraguense Saira Talavera. "Ceviche de Marlith", "musse de maracujá da Roberta" ou "borek de Ezgi": o menu não deixa dúvidas, é cozinha caseira e familiar do Irã, Etiópia, Brasil, Peru, Nicarágua, Senegal e Turquia, que cerca de cinquenta clientes podem provar diariamente de terça até sábado no teatro Ovalhouse, ao sul do rio Tâmisa. FORMATO POP-UP O restaurante em formato "pop-up" –como são chamados os negócios que vão mudando de lugar– tem seu nome inspirado na tradicional frase grega de boas-vindas: "Elate na fate mazi mas", que significa "venha comer conosco". Nikandre Kopcke, sua fundadora, tirou a frase de sua babá grega, cujo sonho, nunca realizado por oposição do marido, era abrir uma padaria. Aberto em 2012, Mazi Mas recebe abrigo gratuito desde o primeiro semestre deste ano e, pelo menos até o final dele, no Ovalhouse, depois de uma passagem por outro teatro, o do Hackney, e de ter cozinhado para jantares privados, entre outros para o Tate Modern, o grande museu de arte contemporânea em Londres. É "uma aliança em que todo mundo ganha", explicou Mara Klein, uma alemã de 27 anos responsável pelo desenvolvimento da empresa. O restaurante paga somente as contas de luz e gás, não paga aluguel. Em contrapartida, os clientes compram bebidas no bar do Ovalhouse, que foi durante muito tempo um importante ponto de encontro entre os militantes de esquerda e que hoje busca recuperar sua popularidade. Esse sistema permite pagar as cozinheiras, que trabalham meio período, um salário médio de 9,50 libras esterlinas por hora (R$ 57), superior as 6,50 libras do salário mínimo. "Mazi Mas nos dá chance de mostrar nossa comida e nossa cultura", diz a peruana Marlith Tenazoa, que migrou primeiro para a Espanha e que agora prepara as especialidades cada vez mais prestigiadas da comida peruana com produtos orgânicos e locais. EXPANSÃO Laura Harrison, uma londrina de 24 anos, veio jantar no restaurante seduzida por "este sentimento de comunidade em torno da comida" e por dar apoio a uma causa. Diante do êxito da casa, cheia quase todas as noites, os projetos se acumulam. Mazi Mas abrirá um segundo restaurante itinerante no bairro de Shoreditch no início de 2016 e, outro fixo, no meio do ano. "Temos 40 chefs na lista de espera em Londres e vamos abrir uma unidade também em Berlim e outra em Leeds [norte da Inglaterra]" e há, ainda, planos de estabelecer outro em Lyon, na França, adiantou Klein. | comida |
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] | "Você tem que olhar o prato como uma tela em branco. Você está pintando o prato e suas cores são o que você preparou", disse a chef Paola Carosella na eliminação de um participante na última edição do reality show "MasterChef". As críticas que os jurados faziam ao aspecto visual das criações dos competidores e a influência de apps como o Instagram ajudam a chamar a atenção para um elemento central da gastronomia: a apresentação dos pratos. É como diz a expressão "comer com os olhos": se você pensa em algo que tem vontade de comer, são grandes as chances de os ingredientes estarem dispostos, ainda que só na sua imaginação, de forma organizada -não só viçosos e suculentos, mas também bonitos e atraentes. Esse aspecto é abordado na exposição "Tapas: Design Espanhol para a Gastronomia", em cartaz no Museu da Casa Brasileira, em São Paulo. A mostra aborda, por meio de utensílios, objetos e pratos, a interação entre o design e a gastronomia, que andam lado a lado. "Costumo testar até quatro desenhos antes de bater o martelo na forma de servir um novo prato", conta a chef Renata Vanzetto, do Ema e do Marakuthai (e suas filiais). Treino e dedicação são os primeiros passos para conseguir elaborar melhor a apresentação de um prato (veja abaixo algumas dicas). Mas criar repertório estético também é importante. "Eu pesquiso sobre design e me interesso por arquitetura e outras artes visuais, que servem de estímulo", conta o chef Alberto Landgraf, do Epice. "Brinco com meus funcionários que, se eles não assistirem a algo além de futebol, não vão conseguir montar um prato bonito." Não à toa, a febre de compartilhar fotos de comida nas redes sociais fez com que ganhassem popularidade perfis dedicados só a imagens de pratos com apresentação contemporânea ou inusitada, que ajudam a popularizar referências; dois dos mais famosos no Instagram são o The Art of Plating (@theartofplating; 192 mil seguidores) e o Gastro Art (@gastroart; 185 mil seguidores). Os chefs Gabriel Matteuzzi e Guilherme Vinha, do Tête-a-Tête, observam um aumento expressivo nos pedidos de pratos retratados por perfis na rede social."O impacto é muito rápido, as fotos que aparecem no Instagram têm muita força", comenta Vinha. Além da disposição dos ingredientes, pesquisas visuais de louças e outros suportes para acomodar receitas podem incrementar. "Quando o Alex Atala estava procurando pratos para servir receitas com formigas, lembramos que elas carregam folhas e desenhamos um neste formato", diz Gabi Neves, sócia do StudioNeves, que já criou louças, além do D.O.M., para o Lasai (no Rio), o Epice e o Tuju, entre outras casas. Ela explica que, além do design, os materiais usados podem fazer a diferença. "A argila, que resulta na cerâmica e na porcelana, tem propriedades refratárias, retém bem o calor", afirma. É a forma ajudando o conteúdo. OLHOS QUE ENGANAM No restaurante Soeta, de Vitória (ES) -que usa 30 louças distintas no maior menu-degustação da casa, com 30 pratos-, a ideia é que o visual ajude a criar experiências "multissensoriais", segundo o chef Pablo Pavón. Uma das etapas é o drinque chamado de "falso chope", que leva, em um copo americano, caldo de cana, cachaça, limão e espuma de cerveja. "A brincadeira mexe com os sentidos: o visual anuncia chope e o gosto remonta à caipirinha." * BOM E BONITO Dicas para um prato bem apresentado Menos é mais Manter a simplicidade para ressaltar os ingredientes é a melhor maneira de tornar um prato bonito Prato é de comida Só use o que for comestível; esqueça elementos meramente decorativos como casca de abacaxi e algumas flores Ferramentas de cozinha Recorra a utensílios na hora da montagem: uma bisnaga pode dispor molhos e outros líquidos -em gotas, eles dão senso de organização ao prato Visualize a garfada Ao colocar no prato, pense no ato de comer e tente misturar texturas e sabores; mas evite encher as bordas, que podem dar aspecto sujo | comida |
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] | A partir desta terça-feira (29) a pizzaria Bráz vai oferecer cinco receitas da Roberta's, uma das melhores pizzarias de Nova York, no festival Bráz Fora de Série - Do Brás ao Brooklyn. A ideia é reproduzir fielmente as receitas do chef Carlo Mirarchi e do mestre pizzaiolo Anthony Falco, desde a preparação da massa de fermentação natural até o desenvolvimento dos ingredientes. Aqui as pizzas mais pedidas no Roberta's receberão novos nomes, que homenageiam a imigração italiana em São Paulo, como a "Hospedaria dos imigrantes" –com calabresa em flocos, mozarela, sopressata picante fatiada e fio de mel– ou a "Mercadão" –com cogumelos, mozarela fresca, speck (um tipo de presunto cru) e cebola roxa. Outras receitas que serão servidas são a "Regoli, Crespi & Co.", com calabresa em flocos, massa de calabresa com páprica, alho fatiado, parmesão, cebola roxa e manjericão; a "Nossa Senhora Achiropita", de três queijos (mozarela, parmesão grana padano e caciocavallo) com toque de pimenta calabresa; e a Roberta's, feita com mozarela, parmesão grana padano, cebola roxa, alho fatiado e pimenta dedo-de-moça. Todas as pizzas custarão R$ 79. O evento, que engloba todas as unidades da Bráz, termina no dia 31 de outubro. No ano passado, a edição do Bráz Fora de Série elaborou pizzas com ingredientes exclusivos, selecionados pela pizzaria e reproduzidos por imigrantes italianos radicados no Brasil. Bráz Fora de Série - do Brás ao Brooklyn Quando de 29 de setembro a 31 de outubro Onde unidades da Bráz; brazpizzaria.com.br Quanto R$ 79 (cada pizza) | comida |
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] | "Alguns fazem guerra, mas há melhores maneiras de defender o país". No centro histórico de Naplusa, onde viveu os dias mais duros da Intifada, Fatima Kadumy cozinha abobrinhas recheadas e homus para apoiar a causa palestina. Faz sete anos que ela teve a "ideia louca" de fundar uma escola de cozinha nessa cidade da Cisjordânia para que as receitas tradicionais servissem também para respaldar a criação de um Estado palestino. Seus esforços têm sido recompensado, porque desde 2008 já recebeu mais de 1.200 visitantes de países como China, Austrália, Alemanha e Estados Unidos. "Por trás da cozinha há política e resistência", assegura ela em seu pequeno estabelecimento em Naplusa, chamado de Bait al Karama (Casa da Dignidade, em árabe). "Ensinamos nossa cozinha e nossa vida como a vemos. Assim os estrangeiros podem julgar os palestinos por dentro", afirma. Não faz muito tempo que um casal de norte-americanos de Washington aprendeu a preparar folhas de uva e abobrinhas recheadas graças a Nidal, o chefe da escola. Um dos visitantes, Rex, disse estar encantando em "compartilhar a vida diária" dos palestinos em Naplusa, cidade que viveu, entre 2000 e 2005, os piores dias de violência da segunda Intifada. Antes de cozinhar, Fatima Kadumy acompanhou o casal pelas ruas locais para ir ao mercado comprar produtos unicamente palestinos, porque sua escola boicota os produtos israelenses. Além de uma boa comida, instiga-se a conversa sobre política. "Na mesa sempre se fala com mais calma, com mais facilidade", diz Kadumy, que veste um véu azul e dourado e usa óculos escuros em cima da cabeça. Sua escola faz parte do movimento global Slow Food, fundado na Itália para promover a cozinha local. "Durante muito tempo permitimos que só os israelenses falassem", disse. HOMUS Palestinos e israelenses não só disputam o território, mas também a origem de alguns pratos, como o homus, um creme de grão de bico, que também é usado para fazer falafel. No entando, todos estão de acordo que o melhor homus é o de Abu Shukri, um pequeno restaurante na área da cidade velha de Jerusalém inaugurado em 1948, quando o Estado de Israel foi criado, e que hoje é administrado por Yasser Taha, um palestino que herdou o estabelecimento de seu pai. "Os israelenses aprenderam a preparar o homus conosco", explica. "Aprenderam a cozinhá-lo e agora dizem que eles que inventaram", diz Tahar, que recebe muitos clientes israelenses em seu restaurante. "Nós adoramos vir aqui, é delicioso", diz Elad, 52, que, acompanhada de sua filha, come o que sobrou de homus com pão. Neta, uma mulher israelense, acredita que esse modesto prato poderia desempenhar um papel no conflito entre palestinos e israelenses: "Todo mundo gosta de homus, é algo que temos em comum e que pode nos levar a um entendimento." Próximo ao restaurante, os cartões-postais à venda nas lojas mostram a diversidade de opiniões: em alguns aparece um prato de homus junto a uma bandeira de Israel e, em outros, acompanhado do preto, vermelho e branco da bandeira palestina. | comida |
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] | Ícone do fast-food americano, o hambúrguer era feito com carnes não aproveitadas na época em que era servido nas ruas dos Estados Unidos, no início da industrialização. Hoje, a receita que virou alvo de atenção de cozinheiros e é feita com ingredientes de boa qualidade e bem trabalhados, foi tema do evento promovido pela Folha e pela CBN, realizado neste sábado (26), no teatro da Livraria Cultura do Conjunto Nacional. Para falar sobre a mistura de carnes, métodos de preparo e dicas para o cozinheiro amador, estavam reunidos Jorge Gonzalez, sócio do Buzina Food Truck, Julio Raw, chef do Z-Deli, e o açougueiro e professor Mário Portella sob mediação de Luiza Fecarotta, crítica da Folha, e Fabíola Cidral, âncora da CBN. "A simplicidade ressalta as qualidades dos ingredientes. A carne, o pão e o queijo têm de falar por si só", diz Raw. E qual a mistura perfeita? "O hambúrguer precisa de bom equilíbrio de carne e gordura. É um erro chamarmos certos cortes de 'carne de segunda'. São justamente os mais saborosos, de regiões que o animal exercita mais, e têm, portanto, mais ferro e proteína", explica Portella. O açougueiro também ressalta a importância de moer a carne só uma vez, para que ela não esquente e esfarele, e colocar o sal só quando estiver pronto (ou na hora de grelhar), para que a coloração da carne não mude e você possa ter um resultado rosado. No Buzina, os hambúrgueres são preparados só com sal e pimenta-do-reino, como no Z-Deli, e na chapa. "A gordura da própria mistura ajuda na caramelização da carne e dá mais sabor", diz Gonzalez. "O pão também é muito importante, porque é algo para comer com as mãos." Um segredo, explica Portella, é "dar uma pequena tostada no interior do pão antes de servir para não ficar umedecido pelo líquido da carne". POUCOS FORNECEDORES Os três, porém, reclamam que não há muitas opções de fornecedores em São Paulo, o que acaba fazendo com que as casas trabalhem com os mesmos produtores. "A gente tem dificuldade em achar matéria-prima para fazer sanduíche. Tem dois ou três fornecedores de carne. Todo o mundo usa o mesmo. São um ou dois fornecedores de queijo", diz Raw. "O 'american cheese', que é o queijo mais tradicional e que todas as grandes hamburguerias usam, a gente não encontra aqui." Gonzalez diz que coloca um queijo importado da Europa em um de seus sanduíches –o que acaba aumentando o preço– porque não conseguiu encontrar um equivalente no Brasil. "Rodamos pelo país para termos um produto nacional. Mas seria preciso pagar muito caro por eles. Os fornecedores não conseguem produzir em escala", afirma. | comida |
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] | Um inventário dos alimentos e bebidas autorizados a serem dados diariamente a Napoleão Bonaparte durante seu exílio na ilha britânica de Santa Helena foi leiloado nesta quarta-feira (23) na Inglaterra. "Este documento fascinante fornece uma aproximação detalhada da quantidade e qualidade do vinho, as aguardentes e os alimentos dos quais dispunham Napoleão e sua 'corte' durante o exílio em Santa Helena", explicou a casa de leilões Woolley & Wallis. "Sua partida diária previa mais de 50 garrafas de vinho, assim como de sidra, cerveja forte, champanhe e outras bebidas", e "22 quilos de carne de vitela, 30 quilos de pão, 22 quilos de carne de ovelha e de porco, um porco assado, dois perus, dois gansos, quatro patos, nove galinhas d'angola, 12 pombos, 42 ovos e 15 garrafas de leite, entre outras muitas coisas", detalhou a Woolley & Wallis. O inventário está com a data de 13 de outubro de 1820 e leva a assinatura de Denzil Ibbetson, um oficial britânico que se passava por artista plástico em Santa Helena durante o 'cativeiro' de Napoleão. Foi vendido por 976 libras esterlinas (cerca de R$ 6.215). O documento contém também uma lista dos cerca de 50 habitantes de Longwood, a casa onde Napoleão morava, entre os quais havia sete membros da família do general Henri Gatien Bertrand, de procedência nobre. O ex-imperador chegou em 15 de outubro da Santa Helena após uma viagem de 69 dias desde a Inglaterra. Consumido pelo tédio e pelo despeito, morreu após uma grande agonia em 5 de maio de 1821, aos 52 anos, provavelmente em decorrência de um câncer de estômago. | comida |
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] | Rafael Costa e Silva, 36, gosta muito de ovo, ovo com a gema mole. Ele é quem comanda a cozinha do restaurante Lasai, no Rio de Janeiro –a novidade brasileira na lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes da América Latina, divulgada nesta quarta-feira (23). No ranking organizado pela revista britânica "Restaurant", ele entrou, de cara, no 160 lugar, melhor resultado para os novatos neste ano. Um dos pratos mais emblemáticos do restaurante de Rafa é justamente um ovo frito, mas com "falsa clara". Para prepará-lo, o chef cozinha uma gema por 45 minutos, a 63o C, e a serve com purê de inhame e leite de coco, passado por sifão (a tal falsa clara), uma fatia de carne-seca crocante, congelada e desidratada por 24 horas, e pão da casa, feito com três grãos e fermentado naturalmente. "Na minha cozinha não sei dizer quanto é técnica e quanto é produto. Acho que fazemos uma fusão das duas coisas", diz o chef. "Hoje meu processo criativo é: ir às feiras, colher nas hortas, ligar para o pescador, ver o que mais há disponível e, junto com meus subchefs, decidir o menu do dia ou da semana. É assim vamos... Provando diariamente e catalogando coisas boas e ruins." O carioca começou a cozinhar há 14 anos, no Rio. Em 2003, foi para Nova York estudar gastronomia no The Culinary Institute of America. Em 2007, teve a experiência profissional que considera mais importante da sua formação: trabalhou no estrelado Mugaritz, do chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, no País Basco. "Trabalhei por cinco anos lado a lado com Andoni, respeito e admiro muito seu trabalho –para mim é o melhor restaurante do mundo. Mas o Mugaritz tem uma estrutura e possibilidades que eu, hoje em dia, não tenho, como uma cozinha de investigação e mais de 50 pessoas trabalhando no restaurante, por exemplo. Eu, hoje, foco em produto, horta, sabor e serviço", diz. No início de 2014, ele abriu o restaurante em uma casa de grandes janelas e parede de tijolo aparente, em Botafogo. Lá, serve duas opções de menu-degustação: Não Me Conte Histórias, com opções escolhidas pelo comensal (R$ 185) e Festival, de controle da cozinha (R$ 254). Os produtos para os pratos são sempre do entorno: vêm de suas hortas ou de feiras orgânicas. O Lasai cultiva ingredientes em dois locais: uma horta próxima ao restaurante, de 700 m2, e outra, na região serrana, de 10 mil m2 –esta tem até galinhas. Quando o chef não trabalha com algo de produção própria, compra em feiras orgânicas e de fornecedores conhecidos. O próximo passo, na cozinha, é pensar as receitas a partir dos produtos disponíveis. "Produzir nossos ingredientes é tão importante quando cozinhar. Nos dá energia, renova todos os dias nossa visão quanto às coisas e nos faz conhecer a nossa terra." Apesar da relação próxima e do cuidado com os ingredientes, Rafa Costa e Silva teve problemas, em abril de 2015, com o Procon do Rio. Fiscais do órgão de defesa do consumidor disseram ter encontrado produtos sem especificação de data, como queijo, um bolo de fubá e um presunto cru, além de refrigerantes e cervejas vencidos. O restaurante recebeu uma advertência e, na ocasião, o chef afirmou à Folha que passaria a etiquetar até "as fatias de bolo que tiramos do forno". O chef reclamou da legislação brasileira, que dificulta o uso de produtos artesanais. "No Brasil existe uma série de restrições que em Portugal e na Espanha não há, como o queijo de leite cru de ovelha. Sou a favor da fiscalização, o que sou contra é a lei atual", disse, naquela época. Isso não impediu o jovem restaurante de se tornar rapidamente um dos mais importantes do Rio. Na primeira edição do guia "Michelin" Rio de Janeiro e São Paulo, publicada quando o Lasai tinha pouco mais de um ano funcionamento, a casa foi coroada com uma estrela –ao lado dos já estabelecidos Roberta Sudbrack, Olympe, Oro, Mee e Le Pré Catelan. "A importância do prêmio, em geral, é dar força para você continuar fazendo o que quer. Leva mais gente para o restaurante e mostra que você está no caminho certo", diz Rafa. LASAI Onde r. Conde De Irajá, 191, Botafogo; tel. (21) 3449-1834 | comida |
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] | Você sabe reconhecer um bom hambúrguer? Existe carne certa? Altura certa? A Folha e a CBN vão reunir experts para falar dessa popular receita. No sábado (26), a partir das 11h, estarão no palco do teatro Eva Herz, no Conjunto Nacional, Jorge Gonzales, do Buzina food truck, Mário Portella, consultor especialista em carnes, e Julio Raw, do Z Deli Sandwich Shop. O evento, mediado pela crítica de gastronomia da Folha, Luiza Fecarotta, e pela âncora do CBN São Paulo, Fabíola Cidral, terá também música ao vivo: rockabilly e rock'n'roll dos anos 1950, por Caio Durazzo One Man Band. A conversa, que será transmitida ao vivo pela CBN (90,5), abordará também a história do hambúrguer e dicas para fazer uma boa receita em casa. O evento é gratuito e para integrar a plateia é só chegar mais cedo –as senhas serão distribuídas a partir das 10h, por ordem de chegada. BATE-PAPO SOBRE HAMBÚRGUER QUANDO sáb. (26), às 11h ONDE teatro Eva Herz, na Livraria Cultura do Conjunto Nacional (av. Paulista, 2.073, Bela Vista) QUANTO entrada gratuita; senhas distribuídas por ordem de chegada a partir das 10h | comida |
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] | Na noite desta quarta-feira (23), as atenções do mundo gastronômico latino-americano estarão voltadas para a Cidade do México, onde acontece a cerimônia de premiação do 50 Best América Latina , dos melhores restaurantes da região. Essa terceira edição do evento é a primeira realizada na capital mexicana –as outras foram em Lima, no Peru. O favorito estará em casa: Enrique Olvera, chef do Pujol, na Cidade do México (e do Cosme, em Nova York), que ficou em sexto lugar no ranking do ano passado. Em 2014, o México cravou dez estabelecimentos no ranking –sendo três nos dez primeiros lugares. Em 2013, foram dez também, dois entre os dez melhores. Apesar de ser uma das mais antigas do planeta, a cozinha mexicana experimenta recente reconhecimento na alta gastronomia. A versão que se popularizou mundo afora, contudo, é o fast-food do "tex-mex" (influência do Texas e de outros estados dos EUA próximos à fronteira), com o burrito, a pasta de cheddar e os tacos crocantes. Em São Paulo também reinam os fast-foods com esses pratos. Dentre as poucas casas que oferecem receitas "mex-mex", ou seja, mexicanas de raiz, estão o Obá e a Taquería La Sabrosa. "Nossas receitas tradicionais surgiram muito antes da chegada dos colonizadores espanhóis", afirma Hugo Delgado, mexicano e proprietário dos restaurantes. Inaugurado em 2014, o La Central também serve a comida mexicana como ela é. À frente da casa, localizada no térreo do edifício Copan, estão Sol Camacho, arquiteta da Cidade do México radicada em São Paulo há quatro anos, e a brasileira Camilla Barella. O menu compõe-se de receitas de família, que Sol apresentou à chef-consultora Ana Soares para que fossem adaptadas ao Brasil. A falta de ingredientes típicos exige criatividade das restauratrices. As macias tortillas usadas para fazer os tacos, assim como os totopos crocantes, causam estranhamento pelo tom escuro. Têm como matéria-prima grãos de milho de tonalidade cinza-azulada e maíz, versão branca e bem graúda –ambos adquiridos de fornecedores da feira boliviana do Pari. "Antes de moer o milho, deixamos os grãos hidratando com cal durante uma noite. Depois, são lavados, fervidos por horas e triturados ainda úmidos", conta Sol. Os grãos também são a base do tamal, espécie de pamonha salgada, que vai ao prato com molho de camarões e tomatinhos, rodeada por pasta de feijão-preto (R$ 48). Mas nem sempre é possível adaptar. O huitlacoche, fungo que brota na espiga de milho, não chega aqui –nem na versão em conserva. Ao longo dos 14 anos em que morou em São Paulo, e cozinhou concorridos almoços e jantares em sua casa, a mexicana Lourdes Hernández desenvolveu uma rede de fornecedores informais –amigos que traziam produtos escondidos nas malas–, além de parcerias com produtores. Cyro Abumussi, da Fazenda Ituaú, em Salto (SP), cultivava seus chiles. "Ele conseguiu plantar sete espécies de sementes que eu trouxe", conta Lourdes. "Dava certo. Mas, depois de duas safras, as pimentas começavam a perder sabor e ganhar picância, um problema." Katerina Kaspar, Luísa Assumpção e Karen Gronich, as ex-ajudantes de Lourdes que agora compõem o trio As Lourdetes, fazem jantares por encomenda e mantêm um serviço de delivery em datas especiais. Mas só trabalham com menus sazonais para driblar a falta de insumos. O último menu das três, vendido no Dia da Independência no México (27 de setembro), tinha guacamole com totopos, tamal de peru com mole negro, chiles fingidos con nogada e dulce de marmelo (R$ 75 por pessoa). Estratégia semelhante tem Hugo Delgado, que no dia a dia usa ingredientes locais. Os pratos mais autênticos, que exigem itens importados, ficam reservados aos festivais. É nessas ocasiões que ele prepara o mole negro, seu favorito. "É um molho com 40 ingredientes, incluindo a pasta de mole que trago de lá. Leva dias para ficar pronto. O mexicano o serve em grandes festas." MÉXICO PELOS TEXANOS Nascida nos estados americanos que já fizeram parte do território mexicano, como o Novo México e o Texas, a cozinha "tex-mex" mescla influências dos dois países. "A taco shell, aquela concha rígida e crocante que envolve os tacos vendidos em grandes redes, foi inventada pelos americanos, que não tinham como reproduzir o processo artesanal em grande escala", diz Delgado. "No México, isso não existe." Na origem, os pratos preparados nas fazendas começaram a incorporar sabores adocicados, que os americanos apreciam. O repertório foi sendo reduzido por causa da falta de ingredientes. Mas nem todo "tex-mex" é farinha do mesmo saco, avisa Lourdes Hernandez. "A Antonieta Pozas, do La Mexicana [lamexicana.com.br, em São Paulo, faz um 'tex-mex' bem honesto, que tenta se aproximar das tradições mexicanas", opina. A ESSÊNCIA DA MESA MEXICANA Tortillas Macias, feitas de milho, acompanham todas as refeições. "Ficam sempre na mesa, como o pão dos italianos", diz Hugo Delgado. Pimentas são onipresentes. Mas, ao contrário do que se imagina, têm mais sabor do que picância. Uma das mais famosas é o chipotle, produzido a partir da pimenta jalapeño seca. Tacos envoltos em tortillas macias, são a comida de rua mais popular no país. Podem levar recheio de carne, frango, peixe ou vegetais. "Antes da colonização espanhola, a culinária mexicana já era feita de receitas que se comem rápido pelas ruas. Por isso se adapta tão bem aos food trucks", opina Lourdes. Queso de Oaxaca Queijo branco de leite de vaca, tem textura que desfia, como a mozarela. Entra na finalização de muitos pratos salgados. Cajeta Doce de leite à base de leite de cabra, açúcar mascavo e canela, entra em muitas receitas de sobremesa, entre elas a popular tres leches. Trata-se de um bolinho macio imerso em calda de rompope (licor de ovo), sob uma colherada de doce de leite. Chá de hibisco Gelada, a bebida é consumida diariamente, várias vezes ao dia. "Temos sempre uma garrafa na geladeira, é como matamos a sede", diz Sol. Tequila A bebida é consumida pura, em forma de margarita, a caipirinha mexicana, apreciada em todo o país. Concorre com o mezcal, outro destilado de agave, só que mais rústico, destilado apenas uma vez. Sal de gusano O pequeno verme que costuma ser colocado dentro da garrafa de mezcal, o gusano, é triturado e usado para condimentar o sal, junto com pimenta. Confere sabor defumado aos pratos. Bastante usado também na borda dos copos de drinques. ONDE ENCONTRAR Comida tradicional mexicana As Lourdetes Onde em eventos (agenda em facebook.com/aslourdetes) La Central Onde av. Ipiranga, 200, República; tel. (11) 3214-5360 Obá Onde r. Dr. Melo Alves, 205, Cerqueira César; tel. (11) 3086-4774 Taquería La Sabrosa Onde r. Augusta, 1.474, Consolação; tel. (11) 2925-6189 | comida |
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] | Controlar a temperatura do fogão pode ser uma das partes mais desafiadoras na hora de cozinhar. O sucesso de pratos como ovo poché ou um bom bife dependem muito do calor do fogo. Um aparelho, em financiamento coletivo no site Kickstarter, promete facilitar as coisas. O Meld é um aparelho 'inteligente' que substitui o botão do fogão e controla sozinho a temperatura dos pratos por meio de um termômetro avulso, que é colocado dentro da panela. Os dois aparelhos se comunicam via conexão sem fio. Há ainda um terceiro componente: um aplicativo para o celular, que mostra instruções de receitas e permite que o usuário controle a temperatura manualmente. Assim, o cozinheiro pode determinar uma temperatura específica na escala Fahrenheit (já que a sede da empresa é em Seattle, nos Estados Unidos). O app, disponível para os sistemas operacionais Android e iOS, recebe dados da temperatura medida pelo termômetro e avisa quando o cozinheiro deve colocar um ovo na água, por exemplo. Segundo a companhia, o Meld funciona para frituras, cozimentos lentos, escaldados, sous-vide e para fazer doces, como caramelo. A campanha de financiamento coletivo já levantou mais de US$ 200 mil, o objetivo era de pelo menos US$ 50 mil. A contribuição mínima para receber os aparelhos era de US$ 99 (R$ 386). | comida |
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] | Abriu as portas oficialmente no sábado (12), o Mano Sanduíches, em Pinheiros. A pequenina casa, dos mesmos donos do restaurante Nou, tem receitas com salsichas, assados, marinados e defumados feitos na própria cozinha. É de lá que sai, por exemplo, o bacon defumado que pode complementar, por R$ 3 extras, o hambúrguer (com queijo, alface, tomate e picles, por R$ 20). "A ideia é ser uma 'sanduicheria' em que a gente consiga, ao máximo, ter as produções na nossa cozinha, nos associando a pequenos produtores, para que a gente consiga controlar o produto: que seja algo natural e saudável", diz Paulo Sousa, um dos sócios. "Sempre quisemos fazer nossos defumados e embutidos e agora temos estrutura para isso." O sanduíche de pernil com azeitonas pretas, cebola crocante e rúcula (R$ 20) e o de salmão defumado, com coalhada, limão-siciliano e dill (R$ 20) podem vir na ciabatta branca ou integral –os pães são da PÃO e de Rogério Shimura. O cachorro-quente tem salsicha suína, mostarda e relish de pepino e pimentão (R$ 15). Para beber, há cervejas especiais (belgas, inglesas, americanas), chás e sucos. O Mano fica a poucos metros da casa irmã, na rua Ferreira de Araújo, e funciona também entre almoço e jantar. MANO SANDUÍCHES ONDE r. Ferreira de Araújo, 381; tel. (11) 3816-1725 QUANDO de seg. a dom., das 12h às 23h | comida |
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] | Nesta semana, o Sesc Belenzinho realizará duas atividades para quem gosta de gastronomia: um bate-papo sobre pão caseiro e uma oficina sobre plantas comestíveis não convencionais. O jornalista Luiz Américo Camargo vai ensinar truques e segredos para aprender a fazer um bom pão em casa, em um bate-papo na quarta-feira (23). Camargo é jornalista, crítico de restaurante e autor do livro "Pão Nosso", do selo Panelinha. Já no sábado (26), será realizada uma vivência sobre plantas alimentícias não convencionais –como hortaliças, legumes e frutos que crescem nas calçadas e quintais, mas não aparecem nas feiras e supermercados– com Guilherme Reis, gestor ambiental e pesquisador desse tipo de planta, e a nutricionista Neide Riego, que vão apresentar o cultivo e consumo dessas plantas e ensinar como inseri-las no cotidiano. As atividades, gratuitas, fazem parte da segunda edição do projeto Comer É Mais, com programação grátis até novembro que inclui bate-papos, visitas e oficinas sobre gastronomia. SESC BELENZINHO Onde r. Padre Adelino, 1000, Belenzinho; tel. (11) 2076-9700; sescsp.org.br/belenzinho Quando bate-papo sobre pão caseiro: quarta-feira (23), às 19h30 e oficina sobre plantas alimentícias: sábado (26), às 10h Quanto ambas atividades são gratuitas, a retirada de senhas será realizada 30 minutos antes do início no local | comida |
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] | A Colômbia sabe de café, mas também de envoltos defumados, manga e milho tostado, de feijões e mariscos ensopados: com gosto de mar, de montanha, de selva, de manguezais –todas sazonalidades com as quais a chef Leonor Espinosa dá prazer ao paladar. "Meus pratos mostram não somente as regiões da Colômbia, mas a vida em seus ecossistemas e os produtos que essa vida dá", disse à AFP a mulher que muitos vêem como "Carlos Vives da cozinha colombiana", por difundir o autóctone com selo próprio. Para ela, que quando criança sonhava em se dedicar à arte, e que estudou economia e trabalhou na publicidade antes de se entregar por inteiro aos fogões, a cozinha é uma paixão criativa com a qual aposta "reivindicar e reconciliar" a variada cozinha colombiana. "Eu gosto de demonstrar que, ao final, somos um país sem limites, um único país unido sob a mesma força", afirma, entusiasmada, em seu restaurante Leo, em Bogotá –atual 49o colocado na lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes da América Latina. "O sabor da Colômbia é protagonista na minha comida. E o sabor da Colômbia é muito diverso", diz, com seus lábios carnudos e sangue espanhol, irlandês e indígena, tão mestiça e exótica como sua cozinha de fusão. Em sua proposta confluem o pão de achín com manteiga de chontaduro e os tamales de achira e refogado de porco. Convivem sem afã o atum em crosta de formigas, mel de cana e creme de guandu com uma salada de tubérculos andinos, folhas de limão verbena, caracóis e flores. Como sobremesa, um creme gelado de arrechón se funde com um gel de sapoti e araçá em um recipiente de cacau. "Somos uma grande despensa", afirma sobre a riqueza de ingredientes que o país possui. "Cabe a nós fazer coisas novas todos os anos." ARTE NO PRATO Espinosa descobriu que cozinhar para os outros permitia que ela se expressasse plenamente, graças a seus amigos, que elogiavam seus preparos e a impulsionaram a deixar o mundo publicitário. Apesar de aparecer na televisão e de escrever colunas em diferentes meios, não se tornou uma chef midiática, mas a artista que sempre quis ser. "Minha cozinha é arte", diz. "Mas uma arte que se sustenta dentro de um marco teórico e dentro de uma pesquisa." A alma dos pratos surge de suas viagens e vivências com diferentes grupos étnicos de todo o país, dos "conchadores" (que coletam os frutos do mar) do Pacífico até a culinária que os escravos negros legaram ao Golfo de Urabá, passando pelos sabores caribenhos e herança gastronômica nas cordilheiras. TRADIÇÃO SUSTENTÁVEL Ela, que descende dos índios e conquistadores, não duvida de que seu destino esteve marcado a fogo por sua avó materna, "uma senhora fazendeira que liderava um grupo de parteiras que sempre me mimavam". De cabelo vermelho transgressor, famosa por sua personalidade forte, se criou nas cozinhas "de portas abertas", das propriedades de sua família, na selva caribenha, e responde rapidamente a quem a acusa de roubar saberes. "As pessoas morrem e as receitas não ficam. Isso é grave para a memória gastronômica", diz, convencida de que este empenho de conservação do patrimônio intangível a tornou "um pouco socióloga e antropóloga". Para potencializar a comida tradicional e gerar desenvolvimento a partir da gastronomia, fundou há oito anos a FunLeo, uma fundação dirigida por sua filha Laura, uma especialista em desenvolvimento e sommelière, com o que busca empoderar as comunidades, preservar sua cultura e construir identidade. "Na Colômbia, falta sentirmos orgulho do que é nosso. Sem isso, não nos serve de nada ser o segundo país mais biodiverso do mundo e ter recursos naturais que nos promovam no exterior", afirma. O desafio? "Voltar de forma sustentável à tradição", diz, orgulhosa de promover um café cultivado por negros descendentes de escravos em Caldas, em plena zona cafeeira, e de servir palmitos de Putumayo, produto da substituição de cultivos ilícitos em comunidades indígenas. | comida |
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] | No Quem Quer Pão 75, casa de clima roceiro em uma rua tranquila da Barra Funda, o final é um bom começo. O café coado é de um lote limitado, de grãos de uma microrregião mineira, de solo de origem vulcânica, com delicado sabor herbáceo. Se é final da tarde, um pão de queijo robusto (R$ 4,20 o tradicional), com dose respeitável de queijo, do Vale do Jequitinhonha, em Minas, pode ser boa companhia. Se é para encerrar o almoço, vai bem o brigadeiro (R$ 3,50), aquele "puxa", como os da infância, com leite condensado e Nescau. É tentador também sugerir uma fatia dos bolos caseiros (R$ 5,90) –imagina: fubá com goiabada; banana-passa, açúcar mascavo e aveia, coberto com doce de leite; cenoura, em pratinhos de antigamente. Meu palpite, porém, é que ainda falta para que os bolos sejam irresistíveis: em todas as visitas, estavam secos. A pequena casa é embalada por música popular brasileira, tem poucas mesas adornadas com crochê e lembra o acolhimento das avós, reforçado pela presença de uma moringa com água da qual os clientes podem se servir, no minúsculo quintal. O tom hospitaleiro avança para a cozinha, orquestrada pela mineira Manuelle Ferraz, 32, formada em gastronomia e com experiência em um restaurante de carnes em Nova York. Suas receitas são caseiras e, no balanço, saborosas. Exemplo: a coxa e a sobrecoxa de frango (R$ 19,90), servidas em uma peça vistosa, dourada e úmida. A pele, crocante, ganha graça com o incremento de temperos (surge um sabor discreto e suave de coentro) e mel. Também se sai bem a tilápia, carnuda e suculenta, grelhada com delicadeza (R$ 22,90). Para acompanhar, arroz cremoso, com leve toque de dendê, nata e tomate. Pode-se passar batido pelo filé-mignon (R$ 21,90) –pálido, fino e seco, se salva pela presença de um creme de batata, pastoso, e de chips de alho-poró, cortado em tiras finíssimas e crocantes. Mais o arroz e feijão nosso de cada dia. QUEM QUER PÃO 75 QUANDO: DE SEG. A SEX., DAS 8H ÀS 18H ONDE: R. DONA ELISA, 117, BARRA FUNDA, TEL. (11) 2538-0844 | comida |
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] | "Bem-vindo ao novo Noma", disse o chef de cozinha René Redzepi em uma manhã ensolarada de verão. "É aqui". Redzepi, 37, o padrinho do movimento New Nordic e chef do Noma, talvez o mais influente restaurante do planeta no momento, estava do lado de fora de uma edificação que parecia um muquifo de crack em tamanho auditório. Latas vazias de tinta spray se espalhavam em pilhas entre as ervas daninhas de um terreno abandonado. Arte de rua cobria as paredes de um armazém vazio; do lado de dentro, adolescentes deslizavam ruidosamente em seus skates. Parada obrigatória da gastronomia internacional? O local, logo além do limite impreciso do agitado bairro de Christiania, em Copenhagen, parecia mais um Four Seasons pós-apocalíptico. Mas a visão de Redzepi era outra, enquanto ele galgava uma escadaria até o telhado revestido de papel alcatroado para contemplar um lago na divisa do terreno. Em uma aposta arriscada, ele planeja fechar o Noma depois de um último banquete na véspera do Ano Novo de 2017, e reabrir no ano seguinte com um novo cardápio e uma nova missão. Como parte crucial disso, ele deseja transformar o terreno decrépito em que estamos em uma fazenda urbana avançada, com o Noma como peça central. "Faz sentido colocar a ideia em prática aqui", ele disse, a despeito das provas visuais em contrário. "Faz sentido ter uma fazenda própria, para um restaurante desse calibre". Os planos dele são declaradamente ambiciosos. Redzepi construirá uma estufa no telhado. Arrancará o velho e mal cheiroso asfalto do estacionamento e o substituirá por terra fresca. E quer que uma parte da fazenda flutue. "Construiremos uma jangada, e faremos dela uma grande plantação", ele disse. "Vamos precisar de um agricultor em período integral, com uma equipe de trabalhadores". Se o conceito traz um ligeiro eco do sonho de construir um teatro de ópera na selva em "Fitzcarraldo", filme de Werner Herzog, Redzepi parece plenamente ciente da aposta. "Isso realmente me deixa muito, muito, muito, muito preocupado", diz. "Não tenho medo. Mas estou preocupado". Dan Barber, um cozinheiro de Nova York que se envolveu a fundo com a agricultura, disse que um grande desafio para Redzepi seria a imprevisibilidade do trabalho agrícola. "Isso traz riscos? Com certeza", disse Barber. Quando um restaurante opera sua própria fazenda, como acontece com o Blue Hill, de Barber, em Stone Barns, no vale do rio Hudson, isso pode ser uma declaração do desejo do chef de ter "controle total" dos ingredientes, ele afirma, "mas obviamente a melhor coisa na agricultura é a falta de controle", e os cozinheiros precisam aprender a trabalhar com seja lá o que for que a terra produza. "Continuo impressionado com ele", diz Barber sobre Redzepi. "É preciso um líder do setor para mudar a cultura". As mudanças no Noma não foram ditadas pela necessidade. Não houve aumento de aluguel no espaço original do restaurante; o movimento continua forte. Redzepi só chegou à conclusão de que a casa, cuja cozinha ele comanda há 12 anos, está pronta para uma dramática evolução. Em sua cabeça, o Noma ainda está engatinhando, e vive sua infância. "Estamos começando a descobrir nosso caminho", disse. "Ainda que tenhamos obtido sucesso, ainda que tenhamos atraído atenção da mídia e tudo isso". Recentemente, ele vem se questionando existencialmente sobre o que significa ser um restaurante local em uma região nórdica. "O que somos?", ele pergunta. "E como podemos progredir?" Para ilustrar tudo isso, enquanto exibia o imóvel, ele apanhou um pedregulho e com ele rabiscou o número 12 na terra. Depois acrescentou um zero, transmitindo a ideia de que o Noma pode durar 100 anos ou mais. "Deveríamos tomar decisões que façam com que essa evolução dure 912 anos", ele disse. Nos próximos dois anos, ele já assumiu o compromisso de reformular radicalmente o seu cardápio. Com o tempo, ele vem se tornando menos e menos certo de que faz sentido que os clientes passem pelos estágios tradicionais de um menu-degustação, de bocadinhos de carne até os doces e café no final da refeição. "Permitimos que o formato de um menu-degustação determinasse o que cozinhamos", ele afirmou. Sua intenção é substituir essa progressão previsível por uma aderência mais fervorosa à sazonalidade. No outono, portanto, o foco do cardápio do Noma serão as carnes de caça (de gansos selvagens a alces), e ingredientes outonais de coleta, tais como cogumelos e frutas de floresta. No inverno, "quando as águas estão gélidas e alguns peixes estão com as barrigas cheias de ovas", nas palavras dele, o Noma se tornará um restaurante de frutos do mar. Primavera e verão? "O mundo fica verde", ele disse. "O mesmo acontecerá com o cardápio". Em uma decisão que contraria expectativas, nesses meses o Noma se tornará um restaurante 100% vegetariano, com boa parte da abundância de produtos que ele pretende oferecer vinda da fazenda que ele está determinado a conjurar. "É uma ideia grande", ele disse. "Como é que você vai fazer com que um prato de espinafre propicie o mesmo prazer que um filé? Uma riqueza de sabor. Isso é algo que teremos de resolver". (Até mesmo a louça do restaurante mudará a cada estação.) Redzepi, que parece ter fome de mudança da mesma forma que a maioria das pessoas sente fome por um belo filé, disse que essa transmutação é apenas uma das mudanças que planeja para os próximos meses. Do final de dezembro até a metade de abril do ano que vem, a equipe do restaurante será transferida à Austrália, para ver o que acontece quando a abordagem do Noma é aplicada a ingredientes australianos. (Experiência semelhante foi realizada no Japão este ano, e a reverência japonesa pelas estações do ano claramente influenciou a fundo o pensamento de Redzepi. "É como se tudo que eles comessem estivesse no momento certo", ele afirmou.) Pela primeira vez em sua carreira, Redzepi está formando uma sociedade para abrir um segundo restaurante, um projeto mais casual em Copenhague com o chef Kristian Baumann comandando a cozinha, e ele atraiu o chef irlandês Trevor Moran, que trabalhava no Catbird Seat em Nashville, de volta ao Noma (onde ele havia trabalhado por quatro anos) a fim de ajudar a liderar a próxima onda. As indicações sugerem que os subordinados de Redzepi estão acostumados a ouvir ordens de seu capitão para que zarpem rumo ao alto mar. A cada semana no Noma, depois do jantar no final da semana, sempre um momento de alta pressão, eles se reúnem para os "projetos de sábado à noite", um duelo público, com cara de luta de gladiadores, nos quais jovens cozinheiros criam pratos que Redzepi analisa e inspeciona. Ele até mesmo transmite o processo em vídeo via Periscope. "É como o Google dos restaurantes", disse Malcolm Livingston 2º, que se transferiu de Nova York no ano passado para se tornar o chef de sobremesas no Noma. "Isso é o que mantém as coisas empolgantes: há sempre novidades". Ao longo dos anos, o Noma foi pioneiro quanto a abordagens de fermentação, busca de fontes de alimentos na natureza, envelhecimento de ingredientes e até de uso de insetos na culinária. "Cada avanço é um risco", disse Daniel Giusti, o chef de cozinha da casa, que cresceu em Nova Jersey. Mas o grande salto para a agricultura pode ser o avanço mais arriscado. "Será aí que surgirão os desafios", disse Giusti. "Estamos cultivando as coisas certas? O gosto é bom? Conheço René. Será ótimo". Tecnicamente, o novo lar do Noma fica no centro da cidade, ainda que pareça estar em alguma fronteira distante, perdido em meio à vegetação emaranhada. Redzepi pode estar buscando pastos mais selvagens na hora certa. Uma nova ponte com espaço para pedestres em breve conectará Nyhavn, uma das partes mais turísticas de Copenhagen, à zona portuária que hoje abriga o Noma e seu laboratório de fermentação. Como acontece em Nova York, bairros baratos estão se tornando bairros caros. A mudança está no ar. "É claro que poderíamos só continuar, ficar no mesmo lugar e fazer o que já fazemos lá", disse Redzepi. "Mas acredito genuinamente que assim não progrediremos". Ele parecia entusiasmado, parado em meio às ervas daninhas e vidro quebrado como se estivesse admirando o novo Noma em sua versão já completa. "Ninguém que conheço acha que essa é uma ideia estúpida", ele disse. Depois parou para pensar sobre a declaração por um ou dois segundos. E logo começou a se remexer, como acontece sempre com ele. "Não consigo ficar parado", ele disse. Tradução de PAULO MIGLIACCI | comida |
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] | Com "ceboras", "flangos" e lagostas (chamada de "a rainha do mar"), a chinesa Jiang Pu, terceira colocada no programa "MasterChef", conquistou os internautas brasileiros. Na última terça-feira (8), no episódio mais comentado da atual temporada do programa do Twitter, 45% dos 551 mil tuítes referentes à atração citavam a concorrente, que acabou eliminada (o que gerou revolta na rede). Em entrevista à edição ao vivo do "TV Folha", nesta segunda-feira (14), ela disse que não consegue nem mais ir à feira do bairro por causa do assédio do público. "Eu agradeço muito todos esses elogios, mas com tantos meu ego vai explodir e daqui a pouco vou estar olhando vocês de cima", brincou ela. Jiang foi entrevistada por Felipe Maia, editor-adjunto de Semanais e Magê Flores, repórter do "Comida". Ela contou que chegou à competição por forte incentivo do marido. Para o primeiro teste, preparou um magret de pato temperado e uma salada de macarrão. Durante o programa, admitiu que teve dificuldades com o tempo imposto para preparar os pratos. "Na prova de comida oriental eu me enrolei porque, como sabia muito, queria mostrar muito." QUESTÃO DE TEMPERO Outra dificuldade foi adaptar sua cozinha para o paladar brasileiro. Ela comenta que os jurados reclamavam que seus pratos estavam muito apimentados, "Mas eu não sentia, porque eu gosto de pimenta. Percebi que não podia usar mais meu costume e fazer comida chinesa, tinha que internacionalizar". Sobre seu famoso tempero, comentado entre os colegas de programa, Jiang explica que são três "amiguinhos": alho, cebolinha e gengibre. "Depois, pode colocar outras coisas que goste, anis-estrelado, canela, cravo." E, para deixar mais brasileiro, salsinha. "Eu trabalho mais com a memória, faço um exercício de imaginação", explica ela sobre o processo de combinar os ingredientes na hora de cozinhar. O jeito que prepara miojo pode ser um exemplo. Na entrevista, Jiang explica que faz um caldo separado e "taca" outras ingredientes, como curry verde e limão (às vezes, até um "camarãozinho") e se está com vontade de deixar mais japonês coloca missô, tofu e cebolinha por cima. Sobre sua eliminação, a ex-participante diz não ter se sentido injustiçada. "É importante ganhar, mas também é importante perder com respeito", comentou. Por causa de seu paladar, que gosta de "mais tempero", ela diz torcer mais para Raul na final do programa, nesta terça-feira (15). Atualmente, Jiang está montando um canal no YouTube a preparar comida chinesa com ingredientes que podem ser encontrados aqui– e considerando alguns convites. | comida |
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] | A chinesa Jiang Pu, terceira colocada no programa "MasterChef", da Band, será a entrevistada ao vivo do "TV Folha" segunda-feira (14). O programa começa às 14h. Para enviar perguntas, use a hashtag #tvfolha no Twitter. A eliminação da competidora, na última terça-feira (15), gerou uma comoção na internet: com expressões faciais e um sotaque marcante, Jiang caiu nas graças os internautas. Ela perdeu a disputa com Raul e Izabel, os finalistas dessa segunda temporada do programa, após apresentar aos jurados uma cesta de batatas fritas um tanto queimadas para acompanhar uma receita de lagostas. | comida |
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] | Carne de búfalo, jacaré, coelho e javali. É com esses ingredientes, pouco utilizados na cozinha convencional, que o chef Fernando Rivarola, do restaurante El Baqueano, em Buenos Aires, montou o menu que servirá no restaurante Dalva e Dito, de Alex Atala, a partir desta segunda-feira (14). Até sexta-feira (18), os comensais poderão provar guioza de jacaré, coelho com cenoura em conserva, lombo de javali com mandioca e tartare de búfalo. O restaurante do chef argentino –conhecido pelo uso criativo de ingredientes regionais– é o atual 18º colocado na lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes da América Latina. Rivarola é um dos fundadores do projeto Cocina Sin Fronteras, iniciativa que tem como missão divulgar os produtos regionais argentinos. O chef promove também o intercâmbio gastronômico entre países e a aplicação de tecnologia em tradições locais. O chef Alex Atala é um dos entusiastas deste projeto. DALVA E DITO CONVIDA FERNANDO RIVAROLA Onde Dalva e Dito, r. Padre João Manuel, 1.115; tel. (11) 3068-4444 Quando Segunda-feira (14): 19h à 0h (apenas jantar), 15 a 18 (almoço e jantar) de setembro Quanto R$ 160 (menu com cinco etapas), bebidas, valet e serviço não estão inclusos | comida |
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] | Nem mesmo as forte chuvas estragaram a festa da nona etapa do "Gelato World Tour", festival que divulga o sorvete italiano, em Tóquio, no Japão. Na "Vila do Sorvete", espaço montado no Komazawa Olympic Park nos dias 4, 5 e 6 de setembro, foram servidos mais de 72 mil casquinhas e copinhos a um público que enfrentou filas de mais de 350 metros e algumas horas de espera para conseguir uma pequena degustação gratuita. As reservas on-line acabaram em pouco tempo e o evento bateu recordes com 3,2 mil litros de leite, 700 quilos de açúcar, 400 litros de creme de leite e 600 quilos de outros ingredientes usados para produzir 5 mil quilos de sorvete no laboratório Carpigiani, o maior de Tóquio. O primeiro dia de festival foi dedicado à apresentação da primeira "Gelato Pastry University" do mundo, que terá sede na capital japonesa e desenvolverá combinações com a tradição italiana do sorvete artesanal e da alta confeitaria. As aulas deverão começar em 26 de novembro deste ano. Já os dias seguintes foram marcados por degustações e pelo concurso de melhor gelato, disputado por 16 sorveteiros do Japão, de Taiwan e da Coreia do Sul. O vencedor foi o sabor "Natsumatsuri" ("Festival de Verão", em tradução livre), de Akira Hattori, seguido pelo "La Dolce Vita di Tè" ("A Doce Vida de Chá"), de Yu Lee e Amber Lin, e pelo "Delizie al Limoni - Um Ricordo di Amalfi" ("Delícias ao Limão - Uma Lembrança de Amalfi"), de Yoshifumi Arita. | comida |
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] | Para celebrar o Dia Nacional da Cachaça, comemorado no próximo domingo (13), a Rota do Acarajé, no centro de São Paulo, recebe no sábado uma festa inspirada na bebida. Das 14h às 18h, um salão do restaurante será ocupado por quatro rodadas de conversas sobre a cachaça e degustações. Os temas dos bate-papos vão abranger a escolha de uma cachaça pelo rótulo, a história da bebida e dicas para diferenciar um produto de qualidade. Para participar de cada palestra é preciso pagar uma taxa de R$ 20, que dá direito a degustações, água e petiscos. Na carta de cachaças disponíveis nos bate-papos há rótulos artesanais de vários Estados, alguns não encontrados tão facilmente, como o pernambucano Triumpho e o mato-grossense Serra Pantaneira. O cardápio do restaurante, incluindo um acarajé especial, com camarão flambado na cachaça, também estará à disposição dos frequentadores –os pratos serão cobrados à parte. A festa do Dia da Cachaça é organizada pelos sommeliers de cachaça Bruno Videira, João Almeida e Guiba Monteiro. Clique aqui para comprar os ingressos. | comida |
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] | Por R$ 200, 120 comensais poderão brincar de encarnar o papel de jurado como fazem Erick Jacquin, Paola Carosella e Henrique Fogaça no dia 14 (uma segunda). É quando quatro ex-participantes de "MasterChef", competição gastronômica que vem garantindo à Band minutos no primeiro lugar de audiência, organizam seu primeiro jantar para o público. Uniram-se na empreitada, que promete pratos inspirados nos mostrados na TV, a consultora Carla Correia, 52, o agente de trânsito Cristiano Oliveira, 37, o analista de marketing Murilo de Oliveira, 26, e o estudante Lucas Furtado, 24. Os quatro candidatos a chef servirão petiscos como pão de queijo e chipotle, dadinhos de tapioca e tartare de salmão, salada de melancia e rúcula selvagem para entrada e frango com ervas, quirera e minicenouras como primeiro prato. O prato principal será porco com frutas amarelas e batatas. Para encerrar, panna cotta com mexerica e pimenta-rosa. Depois do jantar, o café será servido com bombocados, sobremesa que rendeu a Carla uma vitória no programa. "A receita é da minha avó. E da minha mãe, que também fazia. E minha", diz ela. O jantar acontece no salão do restaurante Villa Mille (r. Barão do Triunfo, 348, Brooklin), e ingressos podem ser reservados pelo telefone: (11) 5531-7727. | comida |
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] | Se você está de férias em um cruzeiro pelo Mediterrâneo, jogando em um cassino da Ásia ou jantando com o presidente dos Estados Unidos, há grandes possibilidades de que um cozinheiro filipino esteja preparando a comida. Desde os anos 1970, milhões de filipinos emigraram para trabalhar como garçons ou pedreiros na construção. Mas nos últimos anos, a formação profissional veio melhorando, também no setor da hotelaria, e a cada ano saem das escolas de cozinha filipinas milhares de chefs que vão trabalhar em todo o mundo. "Sempre me interessei pela cozinha, sobretudo a confeitaria, inclusive quando era criança", disse à AFP Rochelle Evaristo, uma ex-funcionária de banco que agora está estudando em uma escola de cozinha em Manila, capital do país, administrada pelo governo. "Também queria trabalhar no exterior. Meu primo mora no Canadá e me disse que lá precisam de cozinheiras", afirma a jovem de menos de 30 anos, uma das mais velhas de sua classe de 39 estudantes, em que a maioria é adolescente. Mais de 10 milhões de filipinos trabalham fora de seu país, principalmente como garçons, marinheiros ou pedreiros. Mas segundo o assistente da diretoria na escola de Evaristo, Teodoro Pascua, os jovens aspiram cada vez mais se transformar em cozinheiros, padeiros e confeiteiros. A escola –uma das 2.500 que existem no país, sendo a maioria privadas– oferece curso básico de seis meses. Entre 2010 e 2014, cerca de 180.000 filipinos trabalharam com gastronomia em barcos do mundo todo, 72.000 deles como cozinheiros e o restante como auxiliares de cozinha e garçons, segundo dados do ministério do Trabalho. No mesmo período, outras 65.000 pessoas trabalharam no setor de hotelaria no estrangeiro. Os filipinos têm a vantagem de falar bem inglês e são conhecidos por sua capacidade de adaptar-se facilmente em outro país. "Estes 'soft skills' [capacidades que permitem a um profissional se relacionar melhor no trabalho] nos distinguem dos vizinhos e dos trabalhadores de outros países", assegura Pascua. | comida |
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] | A chef Rita Lobo, do site "Panelinha" e autora de livros de culinária, lança neste mês seu sexto livro, o "Cozinha Prática", que reúne as receitas preparadas por ela na última temporada do programa Cozinha Prática, do canal GNT. Como na TV, os capítulos da publicação foram organizados por ingredientes típicos da mesa brasileira: arroz, feijão, carne-seca, banana, entre outros. O livro conta com 60 receitas, todas as apresentadas na temporada do programa, como a de arroz soltinho e picadinho de filé-mignon, e algumas extras: suflê de frango, musse de chocolate e água e sopa de milho. Há, ainda, dicas de cozinha (como congelar feijão e conservar ervas, por exemplo) e de utensílios indispensáveis. O lançamento em São Paulo acontecerá no dia 24/9, na Livraria Cultura do Conjunto Nacional (av. Paulista, 2.073, tel. 11/3170-4033). Veja como preparar uma das receitas, a de bolo cremoso de chocolate, aqui. "COZINHA PRÁTICA" Autora Rita Lobo Editora Editora Senac São Paulo e Editora Panelinha Quanto R$ 79 (304 págs.) | comida |
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] | O primeiro-ministro israelense, Benjamin Netanyahu, foi criticado nesta semana por judeus ultraortodoxos por ter comido, em uma viagem recente à Itália, em um restaurante que servia coelho, caracóis e crustáceos, proibidos pelo judaísmo. Membros da Lista Unificada da Torá –um dos partidos ultraortodoxos que integram a frágil maioria parlamentar de Netanyahu– classificaram de inaceitável esta transgressão por parte de um chefe de governo israelense, indicou um site de informações ultraortodoxo. Segundo o site Kikar Hashabbat, Netanyahu se dirigiu no fim de semana durante uma visita à Itália ao restaurante gastronômico Enoteca Pinchiorri em Florença, convidado por seu colega Matteo Renzi. Este restaurante, apresentado pelo guia "Michelin" como um "templo da gastronomia" é não kosher, ou seja, não respeita as regras alimentares do judaísmo. Netanyahu "não comeu alimentos proibidos", disse um responsável do gabinete do primeiro-ministro, interrogado pela AFP. "É uma conduta que respeita sistematicamente em suas viagens ao exterior", acrescentou. O que o primeiro-ministro ingere é acompanhado com atenção. No ano passado, o mesmo site denunciou que Netanyahu comeu em um restaurante não kosher em Nova York com Sheldon Adelson, milionário americano que financia um jornal que apoia o primeiro-ministro. | comida |
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] | A ManCan lançou nesta semana, nos EUA, um novo "growler" (recipiente de vidro ou cerâmica, em média de dois litros) para armazenar cervejas artesanais. O equipamento pôde chegar ao mercado depois de a empresa ter obtido mais de US$ 320 mil em uma campanha de financiamento coletivo no site Kickstarter, no começo do ano. De acordo com a ManCan, por ser feito de aço inoxidável e em forma de botijão, o "growler" impede a entrada de luz e mantém, de forma mais eficiente, a carbonatação. Assim, preserva o gás e aumenta a vida útil da cerveja por semanas. Em uma garrafa padrão, a cerveja deve ser consumida em até um dia depois de aberta, antes de perder a qualidade. O material usado na fabricação do "growler" da ManCan também torna o recipiente difícil de ser quebrado –a ideia é que ele possa ser transportado com segurança. Cada "growler", que poderá ser reenchido, armazena o equivalente a 11 garrafas, mas cabe em uma geladeira. O produto custa US$ 195 (cerca de R$ 650) e pode ser comprado no site da empresa. O ManCan não é o primeiro "growler" a fazer uso dos sites de financiamento coletivos para lançar um projeto. No ano passado, uma start-up criou uma campanha no mesmo Kickstarter para comercializar a Synek, choperia que poderia ser abastecida em qualquer cervejaria artesanal ou bar. | comida |
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] | A fracassada proposta feita pelo Burger King ao McDonald's no final de agosto para a criação do "McWhopper" como comemoração pelo Dia Mundial da Paz chamou a atenção não apenas de frequentadores das duas redes, mas também de outras cadeias de fast-food, que mostraram interesse em participar da brincadeira. Por isso, o BK anunciou em suas contas no Facebook e no Twitter que qualquer restaurante que quiser participar do "The Peace Day Burger", que acontecerá no próximo dia 21 de setembro, será muito bem-vindo, já que a "paz inclui a todos", afirma a companhia por meio de uma nota. "Então, Denny's, Wayback Burgers, Krystal e Giraffas, nós gostaríamos de fazer nossas propostas individuais para colaborarem com o Dia Mundial da Paz, em 21 de setembro de 2015", diz o comunicado. Segundo a empresa, a ideia é "criar um hambúrguer que combine ingredientes-chave de cada um de seus principais sanduíches". Além disso, o Burger King ainda afirmou que está esperando o "sim" das redes e suas doações para o Dia Mundial da Paz. A proposta original do BK era unir o seu principal lanche, o Whopper com o carro-chefe do McDonald's, o Big Mac, mas ela foi recusada pela companhia vermelha e amarela. "A inspiração para uma boa causa é uma boa ideia. Nós adoramos a intenção, mas acreditamos que nossas duas marcas juntas poderiam fazer algo maior para fazer a diferença", justificou a rede. | comida |
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] | O Eataly de São Paulo, que não tem nem seis meses de vida e recebe cerca de 2.000 pessoas por dia, será cenário de mais uma edição do Fechado para Jantar, em três dias da semana que vem. Trata-se do projeto do chef Raphael Despirite, do Marcel, inquieto em garimpar lugares inusitados para fazer jantares pop-ups, cujas temporadas são curtíssimas e os ingressos, limitados. Desta vez, o chef irá fechar os 4.000 metros quadrados da loja da rede italiana para armar uma enorme mesa entre as gôndolas do vão central –ficam de lado os cenários óbvios dos sete restaurantes dali. Para o jantar, realizado em parceria com José Barattino (ex-Emiliano e chef executivo do St Marche, rede dona do Eataly), haverá receitas fixas na ala das guarnições, como batatas assadas com alecrim e outras surpresas. No mais, os comensais poderão escolher livremente o que mais lhes apetecer para dar forma ao menu-degustação, de seis etapas -itens que possam ser pinçados do próprio mercado, na hora. Do mar, pargo, atum ou polvo? Do açougue, porcheta ou cordeiro? E qual massa fresca, de produção própria? Os convivas também poderão zanzar entre as estantes para fazer compras, à vontade –e sem as filas enormes que têm se formado ali. Podem ser itens para complementar o jantar –como um vinho especial– ou para levar para casa –e aí são mais de 7.000 produtos à venda. O convite, a ser comprado no site do FoodPass a partir desta quinta-feira (3), custa R$ 200, com vinho, cerveja, drinques e água, mais tour pelos bastidores do Eataly. Uma banda de blues e jazz e um DJ embalarão a experiência. A saber: na quarta, dia 9, o evento será exclusivo para o lançamento do Clube Fechado, plataforma de relacionamento de empresas. Nesta estreia, a Jaguar Land Rover e a incorporadora Alfa serão as mestres de cerimônia. FECHADO PARA JANTAR ONDE Eataly (av. Pres. Juscelino Kubitschek, 1.489, Vila Nova Conceição; tel. 11/3279-3300) QUANDO 9, 10 e 11 de setembro (na quarta o evento será fechado) QUANTO R$ 200 (com água, vinho, cerveja e drinques); foodpass.com.br | comida |
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] | Algo na história e na cozinha de Paola Carosella, a musa do "MasterChef", me faz lembrar os feitos de Gabrielle Hamilton, do aclamado Prune, de Nova York, cujas memórias estão registradas em "Sangue, Ossos e Manteiga" (ed. Rocco). Quiçá as lembranças da infância que ambas carregam –e a relação visceral que estabeleceram com a comida. A presença do fogo a céu aberto a assar animais inteiros no jardim de casa, a lenha colhida em um pomar de maçãs ou extraída das videiras para dar sabor aos alimentos, o rio que, para a argentina, servia de fonte para o avô buscar caracóis e, para a americana, era útil para gelar as bebidas das festas. Esse repertório deu a Carosella a possibilidade de alcançar maturidade rara na cozinha, que hoje ela expõe em seu restaurante Arturito. (Ela, em carne e osso, pouco aparece no salão.) Uma cozinha na qual valoriza os ingredientes (sabe suas origens, usa temperos básicos, explora os sabores verdadeiros), lida com calor extremo (fez por merecer a alcunha de "rainha do fogo") e imprime potência aos pratos. ("Sem desejo, não atravessamos nem a rua", diz ela.) Sente-se essa potência em pratos como o polvo com feijão-manteiguinha (R$ 76). Primeiro na textura do animal. Carosella opta por um ponto mais ousado –que pode parecer duro para alguns–, capaz de preservar as fibras do polvo sem que perca a suculência. O chamuscado da superfície cria sabores contrastantes que entram em boa sintonia com o aioli, com dedo-de-moça queimada na brasa, em consistência de maionese. Também surpreende o ojo de bife (R$ 72), submetido ao calor da lenha. O garçom falha ao não perguntar o ponto, mas a carne chega à mesa no auge: rosada, úmida, na qual se afunda os dentes. Já no peixe do dia (R$ 69), um namorado de boa espessura, que passa por tempo brevíssimo pelo forno a lenha, sente-se delicadeza -e aí capta-se mais uma vez a precisão da técnica para lidar com altíssimas temperaturas. Suculento, tem uma crosta de folhas de erva-doce (que remetem ao sabor do dill) e é servido com os verdes do dia, feitos de forma simplíssima: na frigideira, com manteiga, azeite e sal. Valem ainda a berinjela tostada na brasa, de um defumado intenso, os pães fermentados naturalmente, com leve acidez, e os drinques -o suco de tomate que dá base ao bloody mary é feito à mão, ali mesmo. Para encerrar, o sorvete de doce de leite que acompanha a chef desde os primórdios. O doce de leite caseiro, escuro, com baunilha, com mais leite e gema, passa na máquina para virar sorvete –fica supercremoso, um presente. Café coado à mesa para um final feliz. A água, no entanto, precisa de mais atenção. Ficou quente demais e queimou a boca na despedida. arturito QUANDO: SEG., DAS 19H ÀS 23H30; TER. A SEX., DAS 12H ÀS 15H E DAS 19H ÀS 23H30; SÁB., DAS 12H30 ÀS 16H E DAS 19H ÀS 20H30; DOM., DAS 12H30 ÀS 16H ONDE: R. ARTUR DE AZEVEDO, 542, PINHEIROS; TEL. (11) 3063-4951 | comida |
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] | O restaurante AK Vila, da chef Andrea Kaufmann, servirá sua última refeição no domingo (6). Depois de quatro anos trabalhando na Vila Madalena, a chef (que empresta as iniciais de seu nome para o letreiro da casa) decidiu que é momento de se dedicar mais à vida pessoal –em julho de 2014, a família cresceu: ela é mãe de três crianças. "Eu estava dividida e me sentindo muito culpada por não estar em casa ou por não estar no restaurante", disse à Folha. "Foi difícil, mas hoje [esta terça, 1o] eu assinei o contrato de venda do AK Vila." A chef diz que a decisão não tem relação com a atual crise econômica. "Apesar dos custos altos, a casa está em um bom momento. Fazemos muitos eventos, o almoço é ótimo e o jantar, apesar de não ser cheio, tem suas 50 pessoas. O AK vai bem. Sou eu que estou em crise." O restaurante foi vendido "de porteira fechada" e Kaufmann, depois de ficar alguns meses afastada do trabalho, pretende voltar a cozinhar. "Talvez em catering ou dando aulas. Preciso repensar." NOVA CASA O imóvel foi vendido para Daniel Hirata, chef-executivo do Mori Sushi Ohta, e a mulher, Valéria Cedano, consultora na área de bares e restaurantes. A nova casa, que deve ser aberta em novembro, terá cozinha oriental: com teishoku (pê-efe japonês) no almoço e em formato de izakaya (boteco japonês) no jantar. "Quero algo menos purista, com receitas coreanas, vietnamitas e japonesas. Além dos saquês, teremos drinques tradicionais e modernos", diz Hirata. Versões de lamen e robata (espetinho) também serão servidos. "Eu vou usar tudo o que eu aprendi com Charlô [Whately], Neka [Menna Barreto] e no Sushiguen. Eu venho de uma linha tradicional", diz Hirata. A casa não deve passar por intensa reforma, mas ganhará um balcão em que clientes podem provar os pratos. AK VILA Onde r. Fradique Coutinho, 1.240, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 3231-4496 | comida |
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] | Mais de um século depois de os passageiros da primeira classe de um Titanic fadado ao naufrágio terem comido carneiro grelhado e pudim numa rebuscada sala de refeições, espera-se que o cardápio do último almoço servido no navio seja vendido por no mínimo US$ 70 mil em um leilão virtual. O navio cruzeiro de luxo afundou no oceano Atlântico em 15 de abril de 1912, depois de atingir um iceberg durante sua viagem inaugural, de Southampton, na Inglaterra, a Nova York. Nesta terça-feira (1o) contam-se 30 anos desde que os destroços do navio, que tinha sido considerado impossível de afundar, foram encontrados no fundo do oceano por uma equipe de pesquisadores. O menu de almoço vai ser leiloado em 30 de setembro através da Invaluable, uma casa de leilões on-line, junto com uma carta escrita por um dos sobreviventes e um ingresso para uma cadeira de pesagem que se usava nos banhos turcos do navios. David Lowenherz, dono da Lion Heart Autographs, que comercializa manuscritos raros e é responsável pelo leilão, disse existir somente dois ou três menus conhecidos do último almoço no navio. Ele estima que o cardápio seja vendido por entre US$ 50 mil e US$ 70 mil. Os itens são todos provenientes de passageiros que sobreviveram ao naufrágio do Titanic no bote salva vidas número 1. | comida |
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] | Cerca de uma centena de chefs mexicanos, entre eles os reconhecidos Enrique Olvera e Álex Ruiz, pediram na semana passada ao governo de Enrique Peña Nieto que tome a dianteira sobre a decisão de um juiz que permite a retomada do cultivo do milho transgênico. Os cozinheiros do chamado "Coletivo Mexicano de Cozinha" enfatizaram em um comunicado sua oposição à decisão do juiz que, no dia 19 de agosto, cancelou uma medida cautelar vigente desde 2013 que proibia o plantio de milho geneticamente modificado no México, um dos principais produtores e consumidores deste grão. Esta resolução foi contestada por organizações civis e ecologistas no passado, com o objetivo de que se mantivesse a proibição. "O cultivo desses produtos atenta contra a diversidade do nossos milhos nativos e coloca em risco suas existências", denunciaram os chefs. Além disso, seus agroquímicos "podem representar um perigo à saúde", ressaltaram. Em 2009, o governo de Felipe Calderón (2006-2012) autorizou o cultivo de milho transgênico da Monsanto –uma das maiores empresas do mundo no ramo de sementes geneticamente modificadas– e outras empresas, mas quatro anos depois, organizações civis ganharam uma liminar que impedia autoridades de outorgar mais permissões para a liberação do grão modificado. "Solicitamos ao governo federal que, através de instâncias correspondentes, expresse uma postura clara e firme a respeito", pediram os cozinheiros, unindo-se a vozes críticas à decisão judicial, como a do Greenpeace. Os chefs citaram a preocupação de vários países europeus com os efeitos dos transgênicos na saúde e também cifras "alarmantes" na América Latina, como a de que 56% do cultivo de soja da Argentina é transgênico e "uma série de histórias preocupantes sobre doenças e contaminações" estão sendo documentadas "cada vez em maior escala". O México é um dos principais produtores do mundo de milho branco, com o que se produz a tortilla, base da alimentação local. | comida |
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] | Desde 1998, o festival de gastronomia de Tiradentes movimenta a cidade histórica em Minas Gerais, à semelhança do que se observou neste fim de semana, o último do evento. Nesta 18a edição, os organizadores esperam a presença de 40 mil visitantes –20 mil estiveram na cidade no fim de semana passado, o primeiro do festival. A essência do evento é a mesma: valorizar o universo da gastronomia brasileira, do campo à mesa. Para tal, degustações, palestras e workshops são realizados em uma estrutura montada ao ar livre, próxima ao centro da cidade, com diversas barracas de comida e música ao vivo. Neste ano, o festival avançou e intensificou o intercâmbio com produtores locais da região –ele integra um projeto mais amplo, o Fartura, que, por meio de expedições pelo país, garimpa produtos, modos de vida de comunidades locais e suas relações com a comida. A equipe do projeto, que calcula ter percorrido mais de 60 mil km para mapear tradições culinárias brasileiras, trouxe à cidade histórica chefs do Piauí, do Maranhão, de Alagoas e do Tocantins, entre outros, para jantares e apresentações. Dona Nena, que produz chocolate artesanal na ilha do Combu (PA), esteve em Tiradentes para falar de seu saber, bem como representantes das baianas do acarajé de Salvador (BA) –que discorreram sobre o patrimônio da receita e a polêmica em torno da venda do quitute durante a Copa do Mundo – e de restaurantes do Tocantins, para destrinchar a culinária no Estado. Neste ano, o festival também promoveu roteiros pelas comunidades rurais da região –como o distrito de Caixa D'Água e a cidade de Coronel Xavier Chaves– para visitas a produtores de cachaça, biscoitos, queijos, linguiças e méis (eles custaram de R$ 80 a R$ 210). * QUITUTES Duas praças centrais, no largo das Forras e na praça da rodoviária, concentraram as atividades ao longo do dia –e da noite. Além das aulas de gastronomia, as barracas de restaurantes locais e de outras cidades de Minas e os shows como o do bandolinista Hamilton de Holanda, neste sábado (29), atraíram público diversificado. Na barraca da Estalagem do Sabor, por exemplo, a batata rösti (R$ 25) podia levar 40 minutos para ser preparada –mas valia a espera. Também estavam à venda pastéis de angu, de fubá recheado com carne moída ou calabresa (R$ 25 a porção com oito unidades). Os quitutes do restaurante Trindade, do chef Frederico Trindade, de Belo Horizonte, também estavam disputados, sobretudo o sanduíche com queijo da Canastra (R$ 25) e o arroz com costela desfiada, ovo frito e farofa de pão enriquecida com páprica (R$ 45). Com a temperatura próxima dos 15 graus, garrafas de vinho eram vistas às centenas –as filas para comprá-las superavam em muito as de cerveja artesanal. SABER Entre as palestras, uma das mais esperadas foi realizada neste sábado (29): a do chef francês Laurent Suaudeau, radicado no país desde o final da década de 1970 e um dos precursores na valorização dos ingredientes brasileiros tratados com técnica francesa. Em sua apresentação, no entanto, Laurent pouco falou de técnica. Além de contar novidades –como a seletiva brasileira para a competição mundial do Bocuse D'Or, que ele coordena, e uma parceria de seu instituto para oferecer a jovens de baixa renda bolsas de ensino na escola que dirige–, o chef tocou em questões políticas envolvendo a gastronomia. Pediu mais atenção das autoridades à voz do setor e, aos chefs, mais união para que isso seja alcançado –citando polêmicas como restrições a ingredientes, a exemplo do caso do foie gras em São Paulo, e utensílios. "É falta de visão proibir o sangue para fazer molho pardo, o uso da colher de pau, do tacho de cobre; prefere-se proibir do que ensinar, educar, formar", disse Laurent. "A miopia de uns poucos não pode impedir o avanço do setor. O momento exige objetividade, seriedade, esforço e união; mesas e cadeiras foram criadas também para se sentar e conversar". O chef aproveitou para elogiar em público o trabalho da nova geração de chefs brasileiros, como Rafael Costa e Silva, do carioca Lasai, que estava presente e fez uma palestra sobre a horta de seu restaurante logo em seguida. FESTIM À noite, o festival também promoveu jantares especiais nos quais chefs de restaurantes da cidade receberam cozinheiros convidados de outros Estados e países. Neste ano, o intercâmbio maior foi com a França: quatro chefs de lá vieram ao festival e, em setembro, quatro mineiros (Leo Paixão, Frederico Trindade, Ivo Faria e Rodolfo Mayer) irão ao país para cozinhar no festival de Mougins. O jornalista viajou a convite da organização do Festival de Cultura e Gastronomia de Tiradentes | comida |
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] | A batatinha frita do tipo "chips" fez sua estreia na Exposição de Nova York de 1853, no Crystal Palace. A Exposição Panamericana de 1901, em Buffalo, Nova York, apresentou a máquina de raio-X ao mundo. A feira mundial deste ano, a Expo Milão 2015, pode não reinventar a roda ou a batatinha chips. Mas é um instantâneo de nossos tempos, um parque de diversões para uma era marcada pela ansiedade. Baseada no tema "Alimentando o Planeta, Energia para a Vida", a feira, que funcionará até outubro, é descrita por seus organizadores como "um laboratório de inovações" ligadas ao "desenvolvimento sustentável, à segurança alimentar e [à] qualidade na cadeia de produção". Então o que exatamente é a Expo? Em parte Disneyland, em parte Bienal de Veneza, ela é voltada à conscientização do público sobre as mudanças climáticas e o desperdício de alimentos. É uma maneira de os países se expressarem com pavilhões projetados por arquitetos de renome. É uma oportunidade de networking para empresas italianas em busca de novos mercados. É um lugar para os italianos experimentarem comida não italiana, muitos pela primeira vez. Os organizadores dizem que sua meta para esta feira, que ficará aberta por seis meses, é que 20% dos visitantes venham do exterior. Minha impressão foi que a Expo se alterna entre o registro divertido e o apocalíptico. As crianças parecem adorar a rede elástica que todos os visitantes precisam transpor para entrar no pavilhão do Brasil. As pessoas pulavam tanto que eu quase caí. Os gourmands parecem curtir o pavilhão da Identità Golose, organização de chefs de cozinha de Milão, que põe chefs que receberam estrelas Michelin trabalhando em duplas para servir refeições de quatro pratos por €75, ou cerca de R$ 312. A praça Eately, com um pátio ajardinado central com mesas e algumas obras de arte estranhas, inclui restaurantes de delivery e destaca a culinária de cada uma das 20 regiões italianas, incluindo os piadine, ou sanduíches de pão prensado do tipo sírio, de Emília-Romanha, a temperada linguiça calabresa 'nduja e o pesto genovês. A Expo conta com cerca de 150 lugares para se comer. E é enorme -não tanto um centro de convenções quanto uma minicidade, com 54 pavilhões nacionais posicionados ao longo de uma artéria central de dois quilômetros de extensão, com prédios nas ruas laterais. Alguns dos pavilhões da Expo são mais bem vistos a partir de fora. É o caso do belo wadi (vale) criado por sir Norman Foster para o pavilhão dos Emirados Árabes Unidos. O pavilhão de Israel inclui um interessante campo vertical onde são cultivadas plantações com métodos de irrigação inovadores. O pavilhão britânico, um tanto conceitual, tem uma colmeia de alumínio de 17 metros de altura. Os visitantes entram por uma passagem estreita que abre caminho por um campo ao nível de seus olhos, para reproduzir a vista a partir da posição de uma abelha. O serviço de catering Mosimann's, de Londres, que cozinha para a família real britânica, comanda a cozinha do pavilhão. Experimentei tomates deliciosos, além de queijo de cabra, costeletas de carneiro e um refrescante pudim de pão branco ao molho de geleia de framboesa. No pavilhão alemão, os visitantes assistem a um vídeo de dez minutos que explica o conceito da exposição e então são instruídos a segurar folhas de cartolina em um ângulo preciso em relação a sensores que, então, projetam informações sobre o meio ambiente. "É incrível", ouvi alguém comentar, "só os alemães para nos darem regras sobre como nos divertir". A fachada de treliça branca do pavilhão italiano é feita, segundo me disse um porta-voz, de "concreto biodinâmico". Atrás dela se ergue a Árvore da Vida, uma torre onde a cada noite acontece um show de som e luz com música. O Pavilhão Zero, comandado pela própria Expo e que inclui conteúdos fornecidos pela ONU, tem o display mais impressionante. Um enorme paredão de monitores mostra os preços sempre mutantes de alimentos (canola, papaia, carne bovina, batatas etc.) nas Bolsas de Valores do mundo, ao lado de anúncios de alimentos. A mensagem, que obriga o espectador à reflexão, é que nossas escolhas alimentares têm consequências. No restaurante Alce Nero Berberè, comandado pelo restaurante bolonhês do mesmo nome, por € 9 você pode comer uma pizza margherita perfeita com muçarela orgânica de búfala, molho de tomate fresco e base feita com fermento natural. A pizza, por si só, já justifica a visita à Expo. Acabei indo ao Ferrari Spazio Bollicine, o único restaurante da praça Eataly com serviço de mesa. Ele é comandado pela vinícola Ferrari, que produz os vinhos espumantes Trentodoc. Passei de um Ferrari perlé para um perlé rosé, que, segundo me disse o gerente, combinava bem com massas. Sim, nosso planeta está em maus lençóis. Mas acho que faríamos bem em seguir o exemplo dos italianos. Se vamos todos afundar, que o façamos em grande estilo. | comida |
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] | Termina neste fim de semana o 18º Festival Cultura e Gastronomia de Tiradentes, um dos mais prestigiados do país e que atrai milhares de visitantes para a pequena cidade do interior de Minas Gerais. Mesclando gastronomia e artes, música e teatro, o festival marca presença com a boa mesa em praticamente todos os restaurantes e bares locais. Os jantares especiais, chamados de festins, são o ponto alto na programação dos fins de semana, quando são apresentados os pratos de chefs locais e convidados. O evento faz parte de um projeto maior, o FARTURA, que também promove uma expedição pelo Brasil, mapeando os estados e buscando ingredientes e pratos locais. Neste ano será apresentado o resultado da pesquisa feita em Goiás, Tocantins, Pará, Maranhão e Piauí. Além dos brasileiros, o evento conta este ano com a participação de alguns chefs franceses que vieram cozinhar e dar aulas, em uma parceria do Festival de Tiradentes com o Festival L'Etoile de Mougins, na França. Neste sábado (29) apresentam seus pratos Ana Lula (Maranhão), Silvana Watel (Minas Gerais), Julien Mercier (França) e Serginho Jucá (Alagoas). A programação tem também um evento exclusivo: o Festival da Lagosta, com o chef Rodrigo Zarife, de Belo Horizonte, cozinhando o ingrediente, que será acompanhado de espumante e vinho branco. No domingo, dia 30, último dia do evento, a programação cultural do festival é o destaque, animando os visitantes e encerrando as atividades desta 18ª edição. | comida |
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] | O Kalles Kaviar é a resposta sueca à Marmite –pasta salgada muito popular no Reino Unido, feita de extrato de levedura, um subproduto da cerveja. Feito de ovas de bacalhau, ele é espremido de um tubo azul e não deve ser confundido com o fino caviar russo. Os suecos o adoram, mas para os outros pode ser difícil de engolir, a menos que você ache interessante uma gosma cor-de-rosa salgada com gosto de peixe. Esse é o cerne de uma campanha de publicidade da companhia alimentícia norueguesa Orkla, proprietária da marca Kalles. Um comercial ambientado em Los Angeles, que foi ao ar na Suécia no ano passado, era típico. Um sueco simpático de avental está atrás de uma barraca na praia. Ele serve aos frequentadores pão com Kalles, ou tenta servir. "Desculpe, você gostaria de provar o Kalles Kaviar?", pergunta ele aos passantes. Os californianos recusam, invariavelmente. Um velho surfista com roupa de mergulho é duro: "Você não vai servir isso às pessoas, cara!" No fim do comercial, o vendedor, esgotado, senta-se enquanto o sol se põe e come a gosma rosa sozinho na praia, parecendo satisfeito e em paz. A tagline que encerra o comercial diz: "O original sabor sueco". Cecilia Sajland, diretora de marketing da Kalles, disse: "Quisemos mostrar a incompreensão das outras nacionalidades quando se trata de sabores muito suecos, como Kalles. Queremos que os suecos se sintam originais e orgulhosos da marca e do gosto". A receita foi vendida por um camelô à Abba Seafood, uma extinta empresa sueca, por mil coroas, ou menos de R$ 700 na época, no início dos anos 1950. Ela era vendida em tubos simples, segundo o site da Orkla, mas que foram refeitos com as cores da Suécia, azul e amarelo, e uma foto do filho do executivo-chefe da companhia. O filho, hoje adulto, recebe um suprimento vitalício do produto. A fórmula parece ter atingido seu ponto ideal em um país que ama caviar, e um milhão de tubos foram vendidos no primeiro ano. A Orkla adquiriu a Abba em 1995. Hoje a companhia vende quase 3.000 toneladas de Kalles por ano. Algumas pessoas o comem com pão, outras com queijo, mas cerca de 60% o consomem com ovos, segundo pesquisa da Orkla. Os comerciais de Kalles começaram em 2012 e eram feitos pela empresa de publicidade sueca Forsman & Bodenfors. Enquanto os californianos não escondem seus sentimentos, um teste de sabor na Suíça produz mais gestos de mãos e sobrancelhas que respostas verbais. A reação mais expansiva veio de um homem de gravata. "O gosto é ach!", disse. "Ach!" "Fantástico?", pergunta um sueco. "Não", responde o suíço, com total firmeza. Em Budapeste, a reação é ainda mais fria. Uma mulher dá uma mordida e troca olhares assustados com uma amiga. Ao responder se gostou, ela sorri e diz "sim" com um olhar que claramente diz "não". Enquanto habitantes da Costa Rica riem e gesticulam, uma mulher em Tóquio se inclina, sorri e recua enquanto parece engasgar com um bocado de Kalles. "Você precisa ter nascido com ele ou crescido com ele para apreciar o sabor", disse Ann Spennare, que cuida da conta da Kalles na Forsman & Bodenfors. | comida |
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] | Eu cresci em Memphis em meio ao leve aroma inebriante que emanava do copo de uísque do meu pai. Ele bebia bourbon do Kentucky puro -não seu primo, o uísque do Tennessee, que considerava doce demais. Já houve 2.000 destilarias no Kentucky. A marca de papai era Jim Beam. Naquela época, o bourbon era muito menos popular que o scotch, o gim e a vodca, e ninguém previa que sua popularidade renovada iria tão longe. Recentemente, decidi explorar a fabricação da bebida preferida de meu pai no centro do Kentucky, onde as corridas de puro-sangues concorrem com o negócio florescente do turismo em destilarias. O bourbon e os cavalos têm algo em comum: ambos precisam de boa água. Filtrada pelo calcário, ela absorve muito cálcio, que fortifica os ossos dos cavalos, e se livra de elementos como o ferro, que afeta o sabor do uísque. Em Versailles, a Woodford Reserve fica no final de uma estrada estreita. A adega onde os barris são armazenados sugere uma prisão de colarinhos-brancos do século 19, mas as grades nas janelas são para impedir a entrada de pessoas. Tranquilo, o uísque libera sua "parte do anjo" (o processo de evaporação conforme ele envelhece) e adquire o gosto da madeira e de milho branco. Esse uísque me pareceu próximo do uísque do Tennessee por causa de sua doçura, mas era bem feito e recendia a madeira chamuscada e açúcar caramelizado que eu cheirava quando criança. Buffalo Trace, em Frankfort, reflete a história mais realista do bourbon como uma empresa digna de Dickens. A adega de tijolos era velhusca, mas romântica, e a produção de uísque com muita fumaça e vapor exalava as essências do grão em cozimento. A destilaria modernizada Jim Beam, uma cena impecável que meu pai não teria apreciado, e a Maker's Mark vendem todo tipo de coisas que não têm nada a ver com doses de bourbon. Ainda assim, as duas empresas foram importantes para reviver o negócio do bourbon, em parte graças a técnicas de marketing moderno. Na Independent Stave Company, em Lebanon, trabalhava um tanoeiro -um fabricante de barris. Assim como o vinho, o uísque recebe grande parte do sabor da espécie de carvalho utilizada e da quantidade de calor aplicada às aduelas (as ripas que formam os barris). Ali perto, a destilaria Limestone Branch é propriedade de dois irmãos chamados Beam, a sétima geração de sua linhagem. Ela se mantém à tona com sua inebriante linha de aperitivos feitos apenas de frutose e uma dúzia de sabores artificiais. Você poderia pensar que o fabricante de uma bebida alcoólica que intencionalmente tem gosto de Moon Pie (chocolate e marshmallow) não estaria interessado em produzir um bom bourbon, mas estaria enganado. Grande parte da arte de Steve Beam vai para o bourbon. Ele é feito de milho branco tradicional, centeio e cevada maltada e é destilado em um alambique de cobre, ainda com desenho árabe antigo. "Com ele você tem o controle total de cada etapa da fermentação", explicou ele. O bourbon da Limestone Branch, envelhecido em barris por mais de dois anos, seria lançado em alguns meses, e Steve concordou em me deixar provar a amostra 107, sem corte. Tinha um aroma de carvalho, bom corpo e longa terminação, sem ser doce demais. Papai o teria amado, assim como a abordagem hábil e franca de Steve: diretamente do Kentucky. | comida |
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] | O Festival de Sopas da Ceagesp, em São Paulo, que terminaria no próximo dia 30, foi prorrogado até 6 de setembro. Na última semana, entre quarta (2) e domingo (6), serão servidas a clássica sopa de cebola, o creme de couve-flor com roquefort, a sopa de rabada e a canja de galinha caipira. Por R$ 32,90 é possível servir-se à vontade das sopas. O festival acontece sempre a partir das 18h. Às quartas, quintas e domingos, o serviço acaba à 0h. Às sextas e sábados, às 2h. Confira receita da sopa de cebola gratinada da Ceagesp. Festival de Sopas Ceagesp Quando até 6/9 Horário qua., qui. e dom., das 18h à 0h; sex. e sáb., das 18h às 2h Quanto R$ 32,90, por pessoa Onde av. Dr. Gastão Vidigal, altura do 1.946, portão 4,Vila Leopoldina; http://festivaldesopasceagesp.com.br/ | comida |
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] | Uma das receitas mais reconfortantes da cozinha brasileira, o picadinho vai bem com o que há de mais clássico por aqui: arroz, feijão e farofa. Mas também combina com banana à milanesa, pastel, purê de abóbora e ovo frito com a gema cremosa. O importante é que a carne seja tenra e o caldo, bem saboroso. "A receita do picadinho é muito livre, cada um tem um segredinho diferente", diz Heloisa Bacellar, do Lá da Venda. O macio filé-mignon ainda lidera a preferência do público, mas outros cortes podem apresentar ótimos resultados, variando apenas o tempo de cocção. Confira aqui a receita do chef Carlos Ribeiro, do Na Cozinha, e, abaixo, dicas para um bom preparo.Veja também 19 lugares para comer o prato em São Paulo. * 7 DICAS PARA FAZER UM BOM PICADINHO EM CASA Fontes: os chefs Carlos Ribeiro, Gustavo Eiji, Heloisa Bacellar e Renata Braune | comida |
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] | Nacos de carne dourados e tenros. Um caldo rico, vigoroso, de cor intensa. E, de acompanhamento, o que mais vier –de pastel, para os paulistas, a banana à milanesa, segundo os cariocas. O picadinho é dos mais reconfortantes clássicos da cozinha nacional. Não à toa, trata-se de um pê-efe encontrado em cardápios de botecos e de casas mais sofisticadas (veja 19 lugares para comer bons pratos). "Talvez porque vá bem com itens brasileiros fundamentais –o arroz, o feijão e a farofa", diz a chef Heloisa Bacellar, do Lá da Venda. Nesta semana, São Paulo ganhou uma casa dedicada só à receita: O Rei do Picadinho, dos mesmo donos da rede L'Entrecôte de Paris. "Buscávamos um prato aceito de norte a sul do país, e nossas pesquisas levaram a ele", diz o chef Gustavo Eiji. O restaurante, no Itaim, terá quatro receitas. Entre elas, a vegetariana, com legumes e cubos de proteína de soja. No La Reina, aberto em março, o picadinho lidera os pedidos. Ali, é feito segundo a cartilha da mãe da chef Renata Braune: com cubinhos de alcatra e banana grelhada. "Acho que o sucesso se deve ao apelo de comida que remete à infância e que as pessoas não preparam com tanta frequência", diz Renata. No cardápio de almoço do Na Cozinha, há versões com filé-mignon e frango –este, com curry, leite de coco, cenoura e maçã verde. O chef Carlos Ribeiro ainda deve incluir na carta uma opção com copa lombo (corte suíno). "A receita é muito livre: cada um tem um segredinho diferente", diz Heloisa. Para alguns cozinheiros, ele está no caldo. Outros veem o corte da carne (de alcatra a filé-mignon) como essencial. E vale variar as guarnições: o Bar da Dona Onça aposta em tartare de banana nanica; o Maní, em purê de abóbora; no Brasil a Gosto, a farofa ganha palmito pupunha. HISTÓRIA PICADA Acredita-se que o picadinho tenha desembarcado no Brasil com os portugueses. Com o tempo, ganhou espaço: há registros de que guisados com carne, acompanhados de arroz e farinha, eram os preferidos das primeiras repúblicas estudantis da faculdade de Direito do Largo São Francisco, fundada em 1828. Na década de 1950, virou "refeição oficial" da boemia carioca e ganhou status de ícone gastronômico. | comida |
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] | A Tasca da Esquina, restaurante português na região dos Jardins, vai realizar nesta quarta-feira (26) um jantar harmonizado com pratos inspirados nas raízes portuguesas, como o arroz a cabidela, que leva o sangue da ave. As receitas de autoria do chef Vitor Sobral serão combinadas com vinhos da vinícola Herdade do Esporão, da região do Alentejo. O jantar começa com uma degustação de cinco variedades: verdelho, alicante bouschet, touriga nacional, petit verdot e syraz. Em seguida, serão servidos vinhos 2 castas para as entradas e 4 castas para os pratos principais. O menu começa com lâminas de atum, ostras e brotos e segue com o bacalhau panado, com curry verde e coco torrado. Os pratos principais são porco, batata rústica e goiaba e arroz de cabidela –a receita, com carne de frango caipira desfiada e arroz remete à brasileira galinha ao molho pardo, que leva sangue do animal, e é bastante tradicional em Portugal. Como sobremesa, mexidos de amêndoas. O menu custa R$ 210, com água e café incluídos. Tasca da Esquina Onde al. Itu, 225, Jardins; tel; 11/3262-0033 | comida |
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] | Como parte da divulgação do McDia Feliz deste ano –campanha de arrecadação de fundos para o Instituto Ronald McDonald, de combate ao câncer infanto-juvenil–, a rede de lanchonetes McDonald's está vendendo "microlotes" do molho especial do Big Mac, cuja receita é considerada secreta. A venda começou nesta segunda-feira (24) e vai até quinta (27) –o McDia Feliz será realizado no sábado (29). Segundo a empresa, apenas cem unidades serão comercializadas, a preços variáveis; o primeiro lote custou R$ 100. Para comprar os potinhos, com 480 ml da receita, é preciso ficar atento ao site da campanha, já que os lotes são bastante limitados. Nas primeiras 24 horas, entre segunda e terça-feira, foram vendidos apenas 45 unidades, divididas em quatro lotes –a venda de cada um, segundo a rede, se deu em uma média de três minutos. É possível cadastrar o e-mail no site para ser avisado de um novo lote. Em fevereiro, a rede fez ação semelhante na Austrália, com um leilão de 200 garrafas de 500 ml do molho. | comida |
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] | Enrique Olvera dá um grande sorriso e não é para menos. Nem todos os grandes chefs triunfam em Nova York, mas ao mexicano bastaram alguns meses para que o Cosme se tornasse a sensação de Manhattan e encabeçasse as listas dos melhores restaurantes. Considerado o melhor chef do México -o único entre os primeiros 20 na prestigiosa lista do 50 Best (os 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo)-, Olvera se tornou o embaixador da nova cozinha mexicana, que vive um momento de efervescência que alguns comparam à Espanha e a países nórdicos alguns anos atrás. Em setembro, o México será o anfitrião de gala do 50 Best América Latina, tomando simbolicamente o lugar da outra grande potência gastronômica regional, o Peru. Olvera ganhou fama com sua reinterpretação contemporânea de tradições gastronômicas milenares e, agora, na mesma Nova York onde batalhou desde pequeno para estudar a cozinha, os críticos americanos se rendem ao seu novo restaurante. O futuro do Cosme, inaugurado no fim de 2014 em um antigo clube de strip de Flatiron District, parece ser bem diferente do fechamento prematuro que sofreram o La Mar, do chef-estrela peruano Gastón Acurio; o francês Adure, de Alain Ducasse e o Romera, do hispano-argentino Miguel Sánchez Romera. No entanto, aos 38 anos, Olvera se mantém cauteloso e com humildade nesse desafio e também ao ter se tornado uma das caras mais conhecidas de uma geração de cozinheiros que está revolucionando o México a partir dos fogões, como Álex Ruiz ou Guillermo González Beristain e, mais recentemente, Jorge Vallejo e Elena Reygadas. "É muito importante para a cozinha mexicana. É um momento com o qual muitos cozinheiros já haviam sonhado e pelo qual também havíamos trabalhado muito", celebra o chef, em uma entrevista à AFP no seu emblemático restaurante Pujol, que abriu há 15 anos no badalado bairro Polanco. Ali, este chef com vocação de DJ e que gosta de música indie e da banda The Cure levou a comida de rua mexicana à categoria de "fine dining" com pratos como seu elote (feito com a espiga de milho) com maioneses de formiga chicatana ou sua "mole madre" ao posto número 16 da lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes. PADRINHO INQUIETO E ENGRAÇADO Cheia de elogios, a cozinha de Olvera foi considerada um divisor de águas da gastronomia asteca pelo catalão Ferran Adrià. "Enrique é alguém com muito senso de humor e que parece ter muita generosidade", descreve de forma mais contida o argentino Estanis Carenzo (do Sudestada), que nesta semana cozinhou como chef convidado no Pujol. No comando de outros cinco restaurantes no México e responsável por eventos que serviram para refletir sobre a gastronomia, como o congresso Mesamérica, Olvera não consegue parar quieto. Nesta semana, tem sido o guia de Carenzo na compra de produtos frescos no mercado da capital, aonde vai desde pequeno com seu avô padeiro. "O México tem tudo para ter uma grande cozinha. Temos uma tradição milenar, uma riqueza de ingredientes, de receitas e de cozinhas regionais como poucos países", diz. No Pujol, Olvera ajuda seu amigo Carenzo sem perder o sorriso. Sem gritos nem palavrões, a coordenação da sua equipe chama a atenção, e no ambiente se respira o espírito exultante que acompanha há meses este chefe protetor e exigente, que todos aqui chamam de "padrinho". "Merecemos beber!", comemora o chef ao terminar de empratar entre aplausos de seu colega argentino. "Aqui só bebemos quando temos chefs convidados. Daí, não há regras", diz com seu sorriso este cozinheiro que, segundo as más-línguas, está acostumado a ser a alma da festa. VIVER EM UM RESTAURANTE Entre palestras, convites e viagens exploratórias, "nem sei onde vivo", diz Olvera. O chef admite que sua vida é "divertida", mas "muito corrida" e acontece principalmente entre Nova York e a Cidade do México. No entanto, se perguntarem a algum de seus três filhos, eles vão responder que o pai vive em um restaurante. Com tatuagens em homenagem à sua família nos dois braços, Olvera se pergunta às vezes "se vale a pena tanta correria" e se não vai ser arrepender mais adiante. Por enquanto, acredita que deve aproveitar este momento iluminado e concentrar-se no México e em Nova York, ainda que os ares de La Habana, em Cuba, e sua intenção de abrir ali um restaurante com o basco Andoni Luis Aduriz e o italiano Massimo Bottura percorram a sua cabeça de vez em quando. Saboreando sua sorte e consciente do influente papel que os chefs têm hoje em dia, Olvera continua com os pés no chão. "Não se trata de salvar o mundo fazendo tacos", afirma. | comida |
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] | Roberta Sudbrack, 46, aprendeu a cozinhar com os livros de Carême em francês, "embora eu nem falasse francês [risos]". Carême foi um dos mais relevantes cozinheiros franceses do século 19, conhecido como "o rei dos cozinheiros e o cozinheiro dos reis". Agora, completa 20 anos de carreira, depois de sete a cozinhar no Palácio da Alvorada para o então presidente Fernando Henrique Cardoso, para chefes de Estado do mundo todo, para príncipes e princesas. Também comemora os dez anos de seu restaurante carioca que leva o seu nome, no Jardim Botânico, no Rio, e o prêmio de melhor chef mulher da América Latina pelo 50 Best, promovido pela revista inglesa "Restaurant". Confira entrevista. Folha - Qual era o futuro, há dez anos, quando você abriu seu restaurante? Roberta Sudbrack - Sou muito artesã, muito chata. Falo que a gente costura bainhas à mão todas as noites aqui, nosso "mise en place" muda todos os dias –e começa na roça. A gente fez isso há dez anos. E há dez anos isso era muito ousado. Hoje em dia, acho lindo que a tendência seja essa, e fico feliz que seja, mas acho engraçado isso parecer novo. Quando eu mesma fiz, já havia me inspirado em algo que tinha visto lá fora. E há dez anos, no Rio de Janeiro, foi um desafio: propor um menu que mudava todo dia, e ter sido o primeiro restaurante de alta gastronomia a servir só menu-degustação. Tomamos muita paulada, foi difícil, mas hoje, abrir qualquer cardápio e ler ali estampado "qui-a-bo", "chu-chu" É um orgulho! Penso, 'pô, passei a mensagem'. E qual é o futuro, hoje? Menus curtos e que mudam todos os dias. A gente tem de ouvir a natureza, se a gente não ouve, não faz sentido se aproximar do produtor, se preocupar com a qualidade dos ingredientes, com a sazonalidade. Quem faz o menu aqui não sou eu, é o mar, é o pescador, é a natureza. É a partir do que eles nos oferecem que a gente se movimenta. E precisamos prestar atenção no que estamos fazendo para fazer um trabalho consistente. Tão primitivo, né? Quem não lembra do cheiro do forno a lenha, da roça? Não existe a nova cozinha brasileira. Trata-se da moderna cozinha brasileira. Isso é justamente trazer a cozinha para os dias de hoje, em uma linguagem mais relacionada aos dias de hoje, mas sem abandonar as raízes. Inteligência x afeto. No que você pensa? É muito importante que a gente pense, reflita sobre o que fazer, usar a inteligência para pensar na nossa proposta para aquele prato, mas nunca se desconectar do afeto. A cozinha brasileira é afetiva, é quintal, fogão a lenha, roça. Mas não tenho nenhum problema com a modernidade. Minha cozinha, na verdade, é superousada, moderna. E o boom da cozinha espanhola foi ótimo, mesmo sendo algo oposto ao que acredito. Foi ótima porque nos fez parar para pensar. O que estamos fazendo? Pode parecer loucura, mas identifico uma relação intensa da sua cozinha com a do [Ferran] Adrià... Sim, a ousadia. Por caminhos completamente diferentes, mas em busca da ousadia. Não tenho nada a ver com a tecnologia. A cozinha moderna que eu faço é muito artesanal, feita à mão. Ausência de tecnologia não quer dizer algo retrógrado, portanto. De jeito nenhum. Quero mostrar justamente isso, que eu faço uma cozinha moderníssima, só com a inteligência, as mãos e os ingredientes. A tecnologia é só um caminho, e eu respeito. Não quer dizer que eu gosto, mas isso eu posso me dar o direito. Não é uma textura que me agrada, um sabor que me agrada, mas eu respeito profundamente. E, bem usado, pode chegar a resultados ótimos. Sempre cito o exemplo do Rodrigo Oliveira [do restaurante Mocotó, em São Paulo]. Ele humanizou o processo do cozimento do sous vide quando colocou manteiga de garrafa. Ele fez um processo muito moderno, que é contra tudo o que eu acredito, mas quando colocou manteiga de garrafa ele humaniza aquele processo frio. Aquela coisa do saco, da carne, da água. Por quê? porque ele usou a inteligência e ele usou o afetivo. Ele lembrou de um sabor. Você estuda cada ingrediente que elege como objeto por um ano? Um ano. Ficamos focados em um ingrediente. Minha maior inspiração são cozinheiras de forno e fogão. Minha frase de ponto de partida para as minhas pesquisa é: "Mas como é que você faz isso?". Parto desse fazer muito simples para algo que vá passar uma mensagem mais conectada com o nosso presente, com a linguagem da nossa gastronomia, mas sem desconectar das raízes. E o que é essa linguagem do presente? Uma linguagem moderna, que pode ser universal, da gastronomia, do mundo. Eu, particularmente, tenho uma ligação muito forte com a cozinha do dia a dia, a essência dos sabores, os afetos. Não uso marinada, porque eu gosto do sabor, a essência pra mim é uma coisa fundamental. A escolha pelos ingredientes simples [jaca, milho, quiabo, repolho, banana] também tem a ver com essa simplicidade e com essa dificuldade. É muito complicado pensar que há dez anos eu coloquei quiabo em uma cozinha de alta gastronomia. Em que pé está a alta gastronomia no Brasil, aliás? Está engatinhando ainda, mesmo com tudo que já conquistamos. Por quê? Porque temos muito a evoluir ainda. Penso assim para a minha cozinha e também para a cozinha brasileira. Não interessa o quanto já conquistamos, temos sempre de querer chegar a um outro lugar, onde a gente se sinta fazendo algo novo, que renove. O trabalho na cozinha é muito massacrante. Precisamos ter esse viço, essa gana. Por falar em massacrante, e essa história de que mulher não suporta o "pesado trabalho na cozinha"? A cozinha é machista, infelizmente. Existe um ditado popular, totalmente pejorativo, que diz que lugar de mulher é na cozinha. Aí, quando a mulher resolve ocupar esse lugar literalmente na cozinha, ela não pertence àquele ambiente. A questão do calor, das horas, da pressão é bobagem. Vou te dar um exemplo muito simples: uma panela com 30 litros de caldo, um homem não pega sozinho. Assim como a gente. No mais, é a inteligência, a capacidade de gerenciar, de suportar pressão, cansaço, e um ambiente que é desafiador. E a mulher tem isso no sangue, a mulher dá à luz. Suportar dor? Poxa, suportar pressão? Isso é machista, é uma ignorância. Escoffier [o chef que sistematizou a cozinha francesa] dizia que os homens são mais atentos aos detalhes. Uma grande bobagem. E também esse termo "cozinha feminina". Ainda mais na cozinha moderna. A cozinha moderna é delicada, é sensível, é detalhista. Não importa se é um homem ou uma mulher. A comida passa identidade, filosofia. Não existe a cozinha feminina. Eu gostaria de saber como é uma cozinha muito masculina? [risos]. Mas o que você acha sobre o 50 Best, para além do machismo dessa espécie de prêmio-cota? Acho que não teria cabimento quem ganha pensar que aquilo tem a ver consigo próprio, Tem a ver com a gastronomia brasileira, com o momento do país. Isso é um prêmio para o Brasil. Mas eu sempre uso uma filosofia de botequim que é: o jornal de hoje embrulha o peixe de amanhã. E o "Michelin"? Teve um monte de reclamação, que isso ou aquilo não foi justo. Por mais que eu não consiga me pautar ou sofrer por prêmios, acho que foi importante o "Michelin" vir para o Brasil por um motivo: na América Latina inteira, ele veio primeiro para cá. Isso é sinal de que tem um trabalho consistente aqui. Eu vivo batendo nesta tecla. Existem não só os chefs que têm repercussão, mas grandes cozinheiros espalhados pelo Brasil afora, que usam ingredientes de altíssima qualidade. E a gente não se dá conta de que isso tem a ver com todo o contexto da gastronomia brasileira. Qual é esse contexto? A cozinha brasileira está vivendo uma tranquilidade porque ela tem consistência, substância. A gente não precisa criar um fato, ser exótico, a comida brasileira é rica porque ela tem expressões das mais diferentes e das mais fortes de Norte a Sul, que passam mensagens diferentes do que se vê no mundo. Todas as cozinhas queriam ter essa força. E a cozinha vanguardista espanhola? O grande barato da cozinha espanhola, que não é a minha praia, é que fez a gente pensar. Tiro o meu chapéu. Na sua cozinha, sinto, não há uma briga entre tradição e modernidade, como na cozinha de Santi Santamaria [chef espanhol maior rival de Ferran Adrià]. Há uma convivência. Faz sentido? Minha grande inspiração foi a cozinha de Santi Santamaria [risos]. E a ironia da "baixa temperatura caseira"? Faço assados à moda antiga. A minha avó, a sua avó faziam isso, e sempre fizeram o controle humano. É o ser humano que controla aquele cozimento para que não perca umidade, volume, que controla daquela maneira caseira o vapor que circula ali. É a simulação de um cozimento moderno, mas com humanidade. Meu cozinheiro tem de tocar na comida. E o que ele [esse cozimento] tem o que a favor dele? Caramelização, sabor. E tem uma relação com o afetivo. A gente procura, mesmo, nos conectar com essas lembranças, esses afetos. Nem todas as cozinhas do mundo são afetivas. Mas acho que as mais bonitas são. Como tem sido usar a grelha que Francis Mallmann [chef argentino conhecido como o rei do fogo] te deu? Temos usado exaustivamente a grelha, a brasa. Estamos tentando até hoje entender e dominar o fogo. E a gente sabe que nunca vai conseguir. Mas a gente tenta [risos]. Você se diz uma chef "atormentada, inquieta e com desassossego permanente". O cozinheiro precisa disso, se ele se acomoda, perde isso e acha que fez algo perfeito. Perde a graça, a cozinha fica triste. Porque tem isso, a cozinha pode ser uma coisa mecânica, feita por máquinas. Isso é triste. A gente está lidando com seres humanos, com vida, com ingredientes. E sua máxima "está quase perfeito" [risos]? A cozinha é difícil, é massacrante, ela precisa ser alegre, divertida. Essa é uma profissão que pede do seu físico, do seu mental, do seu espiritual. Tem vezes que você faz tudo certo, mas você está lidando com ser humano e você não pode ter a pretensão de achar que todos os dias você vai emocionar ou tocar as pessoas É muito importante para mim que a pessoa saia daqui me amando ou me odiando. Os dois valem. De alguma maneira eu te toquei. E o novo Da Roberta, que você vai abrir no Leblon? O Da Roberta tem a ver com a historia de vida. É uma maneira de canalizar a minha energia e essa minha capacidade de me expressar de outras maneiras, além da alta gastronomia. Estou muito envolvida com a comida de rua, viajei o mundo inteiro para entender sobre isso. O Da Roberta [sem mesas e sem cadeiras, numa antiga borracharia] está ligado a tudo aquilo que eu acredito, apesar de ser uma expressão mais simples ainda. Ele está ligado à qualidade do produto, ao contato com fornecedores, ao consumo sustentável. E essa relação com a sua história de vida? Parece um conto de fadas, não parece? A menina que vendia cachorro-quente na rua, foi chef do Presidente da República, cozinhou para todos os chefes de Estado, príncipes e princesas, tem um restaurante premiadíssimo, agora ganha esse prêmio. Não foi nada de conto de fadas. Foi uma coisa horrorosa. Fui vender cachorro-quente para atar as contas, para sustentar minha avó. Eu era uma menina, foi doloroso no corpo, inclusive. Eu carregada engradados de Coca-Cola de garrafa. Naquela época era garrafa de vidro. Minha coluna até hoje grita. Não foi agradável, mas fez parte da minha historia. Tive de parar meus planos naquele momento, planos de estudar, de viajar, para pagar o aluguel, para comprar comida para casa. A gente teve questões difíceis, não vou te dizer que passamos fome, mas de passar por muita dificuldade.. Sem transformar em drama, mas isso aconteceu, mesmo. Eu poderia ter horror de cachorro-quente, mas aprendi com a própria vida e a dar valor a qualquer coisa. É como eu faço com a cozinha, qualquer coisa é importante para mim em um ingrediente. E por que ingredientes tão simples? Quiabo, chuchu, jaca... A simplicidade é muito importante para mim. E usar ingredientes enjaulados é coerente com a nossa história. Outras marcas da sua cozinha? Dou muita atenção a duas coisas nas minhas pesquisas: ao erro e ao gesto de jogar fora. Minha criação está muito ligada ao erro porque eu lido com a humanidade. E se isso pode nos trazer expressões tão bacanas por que a gente vai largar isso? | comida |
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] | O chef Ivan Achcar, do bar Alma Esquina, vai preparar seu famoso bolovo –um bolinho de carne frito recheado com um ovo inteiro– neste sábado (22) no restaurante colombiano Maíz, do chef Dagoberto Torres. A participação de Achcar, que servirá também o sanduíche "Copa Lombo" (R$ 16), é a primeira de uma série de participações especiais que o restaurante receberá mensalmente no chamado "Maíz Apresenta". Neste sábado (22), a casa recebe ainda as cervejarias Schornstein e Mea Culpa e o DJ Pancho Valdez, que se apresentará das 13 às 17h. Os pratos e cervejas serão servidos das 12h até a meia-noite. MAÍZ APRESENTA Quando sábado (22), das 12h às 0h Onde r. Mateus Grou, 472, Pinheiros | comida |
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] | Dentro de um contêiner de 14 metros quadrados, um balcão de inox, um forno elétrico, freezers, pias e outros utensílios. Esta será a primeira cozinha comunitária (e móvel) no meio de um espaço público –no caso a praça Marechal Cordeiro de Farias, mais conhecida como praça dos Arcos, próxima à avenida Paulista, em São Paulo. A iniciativa é fruto de uma parceria entre a prefeitura da cidade e a empresa Contain [it] e será inaugurada neste domingo (23), quando a avenida será fechada para carros, com a presença de Wellington Ramos Rech, do projeto social de gastronomia Sustenta Capão. O cozinheiro vai preparar pratos como cuzcuz paulista com manteiga de garrafa e vendê-los a partir de R$ 15. A ideia é oferecer oportunidade para que jovens chefs e cozinheiros, sem condições de arcar com custos de pontos fixo, possam fazer eventos gastronômicos e divulgar seu trabalho. Segundo o Instituto Mobilidade Verde, que fará a curadoria do projeto, a verba arrecada será destinada à projetos sociais que incentivam a gastronomia na periferia. De acordo com a Contain [it], a estrutura tem capacidade para servir 1.500 refeições e só levou 45 dias para ser finalizada, tendo mobilidade para ser transportada para outras praças da cidade. A cozinha comunitária deve funcionar diariamente, das 11h às 16h, junto com um bicicletário dentro de outro contêiner e mesas de piquenique. Os preços das refeições serão de R$ 15 a R$ 25. | comida |
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] | Comer, defende o autor e ativista gastronômico norte-americano Michael Pollan, é um ato social. É mesmo? A questão rondava a cabeça da designer holandesa Marina van Goor, que achava que a socialização em torno da comida havia se banalizado. Ela levou então a questão para seu escritório de design, especializado em encontrar novos formatos e modelos para produtos comuns, como pode ser um restaurante. O resultado se materializou no Eenmaal, que reivindica ser a primeira rede de restaurantes com mesas apenas para uma pessoa. A casa abriu suas portas em meados do ano passado em Amsterdã no formato "pop-up" –locais abertos apenas um determinado período de tempo–e já passou pela Antuérpia, Nova York, Londres e irá à China e ao Japão. A Folha visitou a pop-up da capital holandesa em sua última abertura, no fim de novembro. E descobriu que a experiência pode acabar sendo mais social do que se imagina. Aliás, embora o lema da rede seja "chegar sozinho, sentar-se sozinho e comer sozinho", não há nada ali contra a socialização, segundo frisou Marina van Goor. "Sair para comer sozinho é visto hoje como algo estranho e constrangedor, especialmente no jantar, que é a máxima experiência social por excelência", disse. "Há uma overdose social. Temos que estar rodeados de pessoas o tempo inteiro hiperconectados, então queremos mostrar que não há problema em sair para comer sozinho." A reportagem e mais cerca de 30 de comensais foram os convidados para provar o primeiro menu da sexta edição do pop-up em Amsterdã, montado por três dias em um estúdio de trabalho no Herengracth, um dos canais mais badalados da capital holandesa. O cardápio do restaurante é único: um menu simples e sem firulas (embora com toques de humor) e composto por entrada, prato principal, sobremesa e bebida a um preço fixo de € 35 (cerca de R$ 130). Atravessada a galeria de arte situada no primeiro andar do local, chega-se ao restaurante em si, que é na verdade uma série de micro-mesas acessíveis apenas pelas escadas finas e ingrimes típicas das casas do centro de Amsterdã. Sentados, os comensais iniciavam suas experiências individuais. A maioria deles olhava a vista do canal pela janela enquanto devorava, literalmente, o cardápio, escrito em um papel comestível com queijo holandês curado e ralado em cima. No segundo andar, um cliente registrava tudo com uma câmera GoPro posicionada atrás de si mesmo. Mais um lance de escada e uma surpresa: duas pessoas conversavam. Mas o papo durou menos de 5 minutos, e ambos logo voltaram a seus universos particulares, objetivo do almoço: ele compenetrado no prato, ela variando a vista entre um livro e a janela. Para evitar que os comensais desviem a atenção de si mesmos, toda a proposta do restaurante, menu incluído, é simples e limpa –exceto pela falta de guardanapo, estrategicamente ausente, para, segundo van Goor, não "sujar" o conceito minimalista das mesas. A casa também não serve pão, sem o qual europeus não costumam passar uma refeição. Sobre uma mesa preta e quadrada de pouco mais de 40 centímetros de largura, o suficiente para encaixar as pernas, havia apenas um garfo e uma faca, uma taça de vinho, nenhum guardanapo e um prato com um desenho de brochete de linguiças, com o menu comestível e um bloody mary. Menu e drinque devorados, garçonetes despojadas traziam o primeiro prato: homus com quinua, cenoura glaceada, beterraba e cebola com flores comestíveis e arroz selvagem canadense em um formato que propositalmente lembrava o de minhocas. "Nossa ideia é conectar completamente os clientes com a comida, e para isso tentamos atiçar a curiosidade deles com essas pequenas brincadeiras", explicou a chef Emmy Ronken, responsável pelo menu. Entre um prato e outro, outros dois comensais também trocam palavras, ainda que cordiais. "É a primeira vez que você vem?", perguntou um deles. "Sim, aproveite seu almoço", respondeu a outra. Ao final da refeição, no entanto, os dois acabaram em um bate-papo em um dos sofás da casa, mas aprovaram a experiência. "É como uma meditação", definiu o chef holandês Aaron Van Henegowven, que pensa em abrir o próprio restaurante também com mesas apenas para um. "Sua atenção é toda para você e para a comida, não é preciso falar nem ouvir nada". O serviço, também propositalmente, é bem informal e, pasme, social. Batucando talheres na mão, garçons de tênis batiam papo com comensais, desde que estes buscassem a conversa. A decoração, a cargo da galeria de arte do espaço, era composta por armários pequenos com chaves gigantes, tapetes, o nome do restaurante projetado na parede e um quadro de arte urbana. Duas poltronas com revistas davam apoio às micro-mesas. Entre um prato e outro, alguns clientes sentaram-se nelas para ler. O peixe, prato principal, veio com a pele dourada, mas com um cozimento leve. Sob ele, tomates-cereja e aipos grelhados com azeite de oliva, cuja crocância interrompia o silêncio nas salas de serviço. No dia da estreia, o silêncio também foi interrompido pelo ruído de comensais que bebiam champanhe no mezanino. E, claro, acabaram conversando entre si. Segundo a idealizadora, foi um dia incomum. Para levar a atenção dos clientes de volta à comida, chegou a sobremesa, com pedaços de pêssegos assados com mel e nozes em diferentes texturas e rum secretamente camuflado em um formato sólido similar ao de passas. "Isso nos deixa realmente atentos ao que estamos vendo, cheirando, provando e comendo", afirmou a chef Emmy Ronken. "Quando as pessoas estão sozinhas e desconectadas, elas ficam muito mais aptas a usar todos os sentidos, e acho que com isso o ato de comer passa a ser uma experiência totalmente nova". E até mesmo social. Os idealizadores do projeto informaram nesta quarta (19), que estão elaborando um livreto do Eenmaal e, por enquanto, não há agenda com novas edições de jantares. | comida |
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] | Tomo emprestada, aqui, a frase que o sociólogo Carlos Alberto Dória destacou em seu último livro ao rememorar a ocasião em que Carlos Drummond de Andrade foi chamado de maior poeta do Brasil. Eis que Drummond perguntava: "Como você sabe? Por acaso saiu com uma fita métrica, medindo os poetas?". Pois bem. E o que viria a ser a melhor chef mulher da América Latina? Um pouco do que é Roberta Sudbrack, que acaba de ser alçada ao posto pelo 50 Best, premiação da revista inglesa "Restaurant". Para ela, quem ganha é o Brasil. Afora o machismo, tão démodé, que envolve um prêmio que aparta homens e mulheres, o reconhecimento tem a ver "com o momento da gastronomia brasileira". Uma gastronomia que ainda engatinha, em sua avaliação, mas já conquistou "constância e coerência". Que já é capaz de se comunicar com o resto do mundo por meio de uma "linguagem universal, moderna". "A cozinha brasileira está vivendo uma tranquilidade porque tem consistência, substância. A gente não precisa criar um fato, ser exótico, a nossa cozinha é rica porque tem expressões das mais diferentes e das mais fortes de Norte a Sul. Todas as cozinhas queriam ter essa força." Pois no trabalho de Sudbrack, fincado nas memórias afetivas, nas histórias do dia a dia e nas "cozinheiras de forno e fogão", fica explícita a potência do que se chama hoje de moderna cozinha brasileira. "Não existe a nova cozinha brasileira. Isso é uma cilada, não se deve abandonar as raízes." É antagônico. A chef que vai contra toda sorte de tecnologias, que se firma no calor da brasa, na "baixa temperatura caseira", aquela que simulou um cozimento moderno, mas com o controle humano, capaz de preservar umidade, sabor, volume, mostra uma conexão tão visceral com a vanguardista cozinha do catalão Ferran Adrià. Por caminhos opostos, buscam algo singular: a ousadia, o novo. "Quero mostrar que faço uma cozinha moderníssima só com a inteligência, as mãos e o ingrediente." Pois há dez anos, quando abriu seu restaurante, Sudbrack estava a propor algo extremamente revolucionário para a cena carioca à época -e até mesmo brasileira. Um menu-degustação que mudava todos os dias, de acordo com o que a natureza lhe oferecia de melhor. Era o futuro. E qual é o futuro, hoje? "É principalmente isso, ouvir a natureza, estar perto dos produtores." Algo tão primitivo? "O futuro é primitivo, modernidade e tradição convivem." Algo na filosofia de Santi Santamaría (1957-2011), o maior rival de Adrià, que bradava pela manutenção da cozinha tradicional, parece traduzir as construções de Sudbrack. Disse o chef espanhol: "Amar a cozinha é aceitar o legado histórico que é patrimônio coletivo e transmiti-lo às futuras gerações totalmente renovado e vivo, reconhecível e atual". A chef se aventurou a celebrar ingredientes vulgarizados (e tão simples) como o quiabo, o milho, a jaca, em experimentações e pesquisas profundas, nas quais busca extrair tudo o que um produto pode oferecer e a essência de seus sabores. (Eis que a baba do quiabo, por exemplo, surge soberana em seu restaurante estrelado até pelo guia "Michelin"). Roberta Sudbrack é uma cozinheira "atormentada, inquieta, com um desassossego permanente". Conta que sua forma mais enfática de elogiar é dizer que algo ficou "quase perfeito". "Você está lidando com seres humanos. Não pode ter a pretensão de que fez algo perfeito." Ame ou odeie. A jornalista Luiza Fecarotta é jurada do 50 Best América Latina RAIO-X Roberta Sudbrack, 46, nasceu em Porto Alegre, viveu em Brasília e está há dez anos no Rio de Janeiro Formação Cursou veterinária em Washington e trocou o ofício pela cozinha, na qual é autodidata. "Aprendi lendo os livros do Carême [um dos mais relevantes cozinheiros franceses do século 19, conhecido como "o rei dos cozinheiros e o cozinheiro dos reis"] em francês, embora eu nem falasse francês [risos]" Carreira Aos 17 anos começou a vender cachorro-quente nas ruas por necessidade, foi cozinheira de Fernando Henrique Cardoso no Palácio da Alvorada e, em 2005 abriu o restaurante que leva seu nome no Rio; também comanda o SudTruck, caminhão no qual vende cachorro-quente Novidade No final de setembro deve inaugurar o restaurante Da Roberta, em uma antiga borracharia no Leblon, no qual exercerá uma espécie de volta ao passado, para explorar o que ela entende por comida de rua, "uma comida que está conectada com o produtor, com o artesanato". Servirá pastrami, linguiças e salsichas -estas, feitas em parceria com uma pequena produtora do interior de São Paulo-, vinhos naturais e cervejas artesanais brasileiras Prêmios 2015 É eleita a melhor chef mulher no 50 Best América Latina O restaurante recebe uma estrela no primeiro guia "Michelin" brasileiro 2014 O restaurante é o 13º na lista dos 50 melhores da América Latina 2013 80ª casa no ranking dos 100 melhores restaurantes do mundo, da revista "Restaurant" e 10ª na lista latino-americana 2012 71ª colocada na lista dos 100 melhores restaurantes do mundo, da revista "Restaurant" | comida |
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] | As coxinhas e caipirinhas do Veloso Bar voltam à segunda edição do festival gastronômico Na Garagem, no próximo sábado (22), na Vila Madalena. O evento, que começa às 13h, terá também os embutidos de Bragança Paulista (Linguiçaria Real Bragança), cannoli (Cannoli do Calimano), queijadinhas (Reino das Queijadinhas), ravióli ao sugo (Bar do Magrão) e, para beber, mojitos (Mojito Porreta) e vinhos (Zahil Vinhos). Como na edição do ano passado, artistas e escritórios de design irão expor e vender suas obras e produtos. Três bandas também vão se apresentar e o DJ Ne-On ficará a cargo da música das 13h às 15h30. NA GARAGEM Quando 22 de agosto, sábado, das 13h às 21h Onde Hilo Coworking, r. Aspicuelta, 345, Vila Madalena QUANTO entrada gratuita MAIS facebook.com/hilocoworking | comida |
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] | Quase um terço das despesas de férias de turistas e locais na Itália está relacionado à alimentação, incluindo restaurantes, pizzarias e produtos típicos regionais e totalizando uma quantia de cerca de 11 bilhões de euros em gastos. É o que afirma um estudo da Confederação Nacional de Cultivadores Diretos (Coldiretti) italiana apresentado no pavilhão "No Farmers No Party", na Expo Milão 2015. Entre todos os elementos que envolvem uma viagem, do transporte à hospedagem, dos serviços de entretenimento aos culturais, a qualidade dos alimentos na nação europeia é o item que obtém a nota mais alta dos turistas. Segundo a Coldiretti, a Itália conquistou a liderança mundial no turismo enogastronômico graças a 4.886 produtos tradicionais de todas as suas regiões, 272 especialidades com Denominação de Origem Protegida (DOP), 415 vinhos com Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) e quase 21 mil pontos de turismo rural. "Esse é o resultado do trabalho de unir gerações de agricultores empenhados em defender a biodiversidade do território e as tradições alimentares. Trata-se de um bem comum e de um patrimônio também cultural que a Itália pode hoje oferecer com orgulho por ocasião da Expo", afirmou o presidente da Coldiretti, Roberto Moncalvo. | comida |
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] | Gilberto Smith Álvarez não perde detalhes enquanto lhe ensinam truques para fazer uma verdadeira pizza napolitana. Espera voltar com novas técnicas para seu restaurante em Cuba, assim como outros chefs que visitaram Miami nesta semana. Quatro cozinheiros de restaurantes promissores em Cuba conviveram por uma semana em Miami (EUA), dentro de um programa de intercâmbio que promove o diálogo entre os dois países. A iniciativa se dá enquanto a "quebra do gelo" entre EUA e Cuba avança mais um passo: o secretário de Estado, John Kerry, vai içar a bandeira norte-americana pela primeira vez em mais de meio século na embaixada localizada em Havana nesta sexta-feira (14). "Levo comigo muitas ideias porque nos reunimos com chefs e donos de restaurantes", disse à AFP Smith Álvarez, dono e chef da Pizzanella, em Havana, ao observar como um cozinheiro do Stanzione 87, em Brickell, preparava de forma habilidosa uma pizza em poucos minutos. "No nosso forno demoramos mais", afirma Álvarez, que espera colocar um forno à lenha em sua pizzaria, aberta há dois anos. Segundo ele, a casa se diferencia de outras por investir em preços baixos, "dentro do possível". FINANÇAS, PONTO NEVRÁLGICO Os "trabalhadores por conta própria" se interessam pelo aspecto financeiro dos locais e em como colocá-los em prática na ilha de regime comunista, onde os restaurantes privados se multiplicaram desde 2008, com as reformas econômicas de Raúl Castro. "Além de trocar sobre comida, aprenderam sobre compras e administração do dinheiro –esse, um ponto nevrálgico que te quebra rapidamente", disse o chef do Gringo Viejo, Luis Alberto Alfonso Pérez, conhecido como Lucio. Apesar de ser um chef veterano, Lucio ajudou a picar cogumelos na terça-feira, no restaurante Golden Fig, um dos que visitou na semana. Novas técnicas e ingredientes alternativos são bem recebidos pelos cozinheiros cubanos, que sofrem para conseguir insumos de boa qualidade de forma constante na ilha. "Por enquanto a questão dos produtos é o que nos complica, mas acredito que está aqui a parte criativa do chef", disse Yamilet Magariño Andux, que tem uma padaria. A autora do livro "Como para chuparse los dedos" e apresentadora de um programa na televisão estatal "Cubavisión" opta por produtos locais. "Eu prefiro ir para o interior de Cuba e conseguir bons queijos, azeites, ervas aromáticas e um bom pão-de-ló, que só se encontra em Santiago de Cuba", disse Magariño Andux durante uma degustação no restaurante asiático Sushi Maki. Em Miami, os cozinheiros puderam "provar esses ingredientes que para nós podem ser algo muito fácil [de conseguir] e cotidiano, mas que ainda são desconhecidos para eles", disse a chef Sushi Maki, Hilda Ysusi BENEFÍCIOS PARA A ILHA Os chefs locais afirmam que além de aprender sobre cozinha cubana, puderam desconstruir impressões sobre a ilha. "Eu não pensei que havia esse tipo de cozinha em Cuba", disse impressionado o chef americano de origem cubana Tomás Prado, do Golden Fig. "Sabemos que há algumas dificuldades lá, mas falando com eles e vendo o processo, entendemos mais sobre as dificuldades e como lidam com o que têm", afirmou. | comida |
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] | O foie gras continua tendo venda e produção permitidas na capital paulista. Nesta quarta-feira (12), desembargadores do Tribunal de Justiça do Estado se manifestaram contrariamente ao recurso que a prefeitura apresentou para tentar manter a lei. No dia 14 de julho, uma liminar foi concedida pelo TJ-SP, a pedido da ANR (Associação Nacional de Restaurantes), suspendendo o texto. A prefeitura havia aprovado a proibição ao foie gras em 26 de junho. Depois da suspensão, entrou com recurso contra a liminar. A Câmara Municipal fez pedido semelhante –os dois foram negados. Segundo o advogado da ANR, Eduardo Yoshikawa, os 25 desembargadores foram contrários aos recursos. "Eles confirmaram fundamentos da liminar, que havia suspenso a lei em 14 de julho", disse. A proibição ao foie gras (fígado gordo de pato ou ganso) continua suspensa, por prazo indeterminado, até o julgamento do mérito da ação –que dirá se a lei é constitucional ou não. O PROCESSO O projeto, apresentado pelo vereador Laércio Benko (PHS) em 2013, havia sido aprovado por unanimidade na Câmara no último dia 13 de maio. A expectativa era que o prefeito, tido como apreciador da iguaria, vetasse o texto. Juristas como o advogado Ives Gandra Martins haviam se manifestado de forma contrária ao projeto, no qual viam inconstitucionalidade -segundo eles, não caberia à prefeitura legislar sobre o comércio de um tipo específico de produto, mas sim à União. A Procuradoria-Geral do Município também emitiu parecer recomendando o veto ao projeto, com o mesmo argumento. Haddad, entretanto, optou por "tratar do tema dentro do âmbito da legislação ambiental, considerando a manifesta intenção do projeto de proteger aves e animais de sofrimento", segundo comunicado da prefeitura. A produção de foie gras inclui a alimentação forçada de aves, feita com um tubo introduzido na garganta. A lei, proposta pelo vereador Laércio Benko (PHS), veta ainda o comércio de artigos de pele de animais criados só para este fim. | comida |
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] | Se a a panela de pressão causa receio (medo, em alguns), imagine uma que vai dentro do micro-ondas. Três, dois, um... ufa. Deu certo. Para alguém desacostumado a usar o aparelho, a desconfiança é ainda maior. Mas isso é besteira –seja com a panela ou com o micro-ondas (sabe as histórias de que ele dá câncer e tira nutrientes dos alimentos? Estudos sérios refutam isso). A panela parece aguentar o tranco, tem travas o suficiente (elas podem até vencê-lo por 7x1). Mas requer alguns cuidados. Por exemplo, esqueça o óleo para dar sabor: ele pode derreter o plástico. Além disso, é preciso esperar a bendita esfriar para abri-la –nada de colocá-la em água corrente. No teste, duas receitas foram preparadas ao mesmo tempo: uma na panela de pressão para micro-ondas e uma na panela de pressão convencional. Demorou um pouco mais, mas o feijão da nova panela ficou pronto (foram 30 minutos de cozimento mais 15 para poder abri-la, contra 25 minutos de cozimento e 5 de refogado na convencional). O feijão tinha cara de feijão mesmo, apesar de um pouco branquelo. O que não deu jeito foi o caldo. Espremer alguns grãos (para liberar o amido) e voltar ao micro-ondas com a tampa da panela aberta não resolveu. O gosto era bom (nem sinal de plástico), assim como o cozimento dos grãos. Se não houvesse outro jeito, a receita quebraria um galho. Mas o fato é: com os R$ 610 da engenhoca quase se compram um fogão e uma panela de verdade. Ainda melhores e mais rápidos. Depois do teste, a Tupperware, marca do utensílio, foi questionada pelo "Comida" sobre preço e eficiência. Disse que as receitas mais longas levam 30 minutos e que o tempo para abrir as panelas (de micro-ondas e convencional) é o mesmo. A empresa ressaltou a praticidade de programar a receita em um timer e não ter que se manter atento à receita que pode queimar. Já o preço, atribuiu à tecnologia da panela, que faz com que ela suporte ainda mais pressão do que a panela tradicional. A panela de pressão para micro-ondas da Tupperware é vendida por consultoras. Informações estão disponíveis no site da empresa. Além desta, há uma versão da Vizio Brasil, um pouco mais em conta (na faixa de R$ 500), à venda no Extra, Ponto Frio e Casas Bahia, por exemplo. | comida |
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] | Será inaugurado neste sábado (8) um espaço dedicado à gastronomia na avenida Rebouças, em São Paulo. Com uma área de 2.000 metros quadrados, o Piknik poderá ser ocupado por até 40 expositores, que vão oferecer diferentes tipos de comida e bebida. A ideia é que o almoço executivo saia por, no máximo, R$ 27. O espaço vai funcionar diariamente, das 11h às 22h, e nos sábados terá shows ao vivo. Aos domingos, serão realizadas oficinas e atividades para crianças de 4 a 11 anos. O empreendimento, localizado próxima às estações Faria Lima e Fradique Coutinho do metrô, também promete wi-fi gratuito. PIKNIK Onde av. Rebouças, 3128 Horário de funcionamento todos os dias, das 11h às 22h; entrada gratuita Mais piknikpark.com.br | comida |
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] | São Paulo vai ganhar uma nova rede de pastéis de nata –típico doce português, também conhecido como pastel de Belém–, a Manteigaria Lisboa. Segundo a rede, os doces serão preparados de acordo com uma receita centenária de família. As duas primeiras casas da Manteigaria serão inauguradas em breve, na região da av. Paulista. A empresa, que partiu de um investimento inicial de R$ 2 milhões, pretende chegar a R$ 15 milhões até o final de 2016 e atingir a meta de 50 unidades da marca no país. Os estabelecimentos foram pensados para ter uma alta rotatividade: poucas mesas e poltronas, com serviço focado no balcão. A cozinha ficará exposta ao salão por uma parede de vidro e os clientes poderão assistir ao processo de feitura dos pastéis, que serão preparados na hora, diz a rede. Outro detalhe prometido é um sino na porta, cujas baladas anunciarão as levas de pasteizinhos recém-saídas do forno. Cada pastel vai custar R$ 5, uma caixa com seis unidades sairá por R$ 25. MANTEIGARIA LISBOA - FÁBRICA DE PASTÉIS DE NATA Onde r. Padre João Manuel, 37 Mais (11) 3032-2229 | comida |
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] | Algo na cozinha de Victor Dimitrow, 26, lembra os pilares da "nouvelle cuisine". Em seu novo Petí Gastronomia, ele parece entusiasmado na missão de fazer receitas leves, explorar produtos da estação e embalar tudo em apresentações caprichadas. Dimitrow já passou pela França para estudar e trabalhar, mas foi da Irlanda que trouxe o costume de avançar na floresta para colher ervas, frutas e cogumelos selvagens e usá-los na cozinha. No Petí, que fica no fundo de uma loja de materiais de pintura em Perdizes, o chef aplica um pouco dessa filosofia. Ele cultiva uma horta vigorosa, vai ao mercado diariamente e não tem freezer para armazenamento. E assim é capaz de transportar frescor aos pratos. Em um menu rotativo –e com preço abaixo da média (entrada, prato e sobremesa saem por R$ 38,50)–, os produtos têm seus sabores essenciais preservados. Caso do creme de beterraba assada, que ganha graça com especiarias sem perder a intensidade. Idem para as finíssimas fatias de pepino que envolvem o tartare de salmão, em outra entrada, que conjuga doçura e acidez. O mix de folhas, com musse de queijo de cabra, chips de batata-doce e azeitonas (estas, desidratadas, de gosto acentuado), combina frescor e apresentação com delicado jogo de cores. Pode haver sobrecoxa de frango, de pele crocante e interior úmido, e feijão-andu, com gosto de mato. Ou arraia grelhada e emulsão de camarão (esta espuma tem sabor forte do crustáceo, mas textura que nada acrescenta ao conjunto da obra –a mim, não faz a menor graça). Alguns escorregões, porém, mostram que falta amadurecer. O vinho chega à mesa já na taça, o risoto de abóbora passou muito do ponto e a torta de chocolate é densa e pesada, em desarmonia com o restante da experiência. Mas o que fica é uma vontade de voltar para ver o que há de surgir. Agora estão em cartaz, por exemplo, receitas como o ovo poché com quiabo tostado e pargo com nhoque de banana-da-terra. A ver. petí gastronomia QUANDO: DE SEG. A SÁB., DAS 12H ÀS 15H ONDE: R. COTOXÓ, 110, PERDIZES (DENTRO DA LOJA PINTAR MATERIAIS ARTÍSTICOS); TEL. (11) 3873-0099 | comida |
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] | O consumo de vinhos no Brasil aumentou em 4,6% no primeiro semestre, em comparação com o mesmo período de 2014, um crescimento que se dá em momentos de sinais de debilidade na economia do país e em que as famílias reduziram as compras em 0,9% no primeiro trimestre, informaram fontes do setor. O Instituto Brasileiro do Vinho (Ibravin) apontou que os vinhos, sucos, espumantes e outros produtos derivados da uva registraram crescimento no consumo, mas o vinho tinto se destacou, com um avanço de 4,6%, chegando a 9,1 milhões de litros. "O próprio consumidor está sabendo apreciar o vinho, tanto o nacional como o importado, mas o volume consumido ainda é pequeno e nos dá espaço para crescer por vários anos mais", disse Oscar Lo, presidente da Federação de Cooperativas Vinícolas do Rio Grande do Sul (Fecovinho), principal estado produtor. Para Lo, por mais que o país enfrente uma retração econômica, nos últimos anos as famílias aumentaram seu poder aquisitivo e incorporaram o vinho em suas mesas. A forte baixa do real frente ao dólar, de 28% até esta parte do ano, encareceu as importações e deu início a uma queda de 1,9% dos vinhos importados no Brasil neste semestre. No entanto, o chefe de promoção vinícola da Embaixada da Espanha no Brasil, Antonio Correas, disse à Efe que a leve redução não é alarmante. "O consumo do vinho não compartilha o mesmo pessimismo que existe em outros setores, continua vigoroso, apesar de certa queda do consumo em restaurantes", comentou Correas. Para ele, o fortalecimento do produto nacional é positivo e contribui para reforçar em brasileiros a cultura do vinho. | comida |
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] | A cena é trivial em cidades como Nova York ou São Francisco (EUA): você entra em um restaurante, escolhe seu prato, espera ele ser rapidamente embalado e sai com o pacotinho para comer onde quiser –em casa, no escritório, no táxi, no banco do parque. Se lá esse serviço já é moda, os restaurantes que fazem "take-out" são parte de um mercado que ainda desponta em São Paulo, mas que "tem crescido muito", diz Eduardo Scott, consultor de negócios especializado em gastronomia e que atua nessa área há 25 anos. Aos poucos, começam a surgir por aqui casas como o Sanpo, o Cha-Cha e a Comedoria Gonzales, que foram planejadas para operar com essa vocação, mesmo que mantenham o serviço para quem quer comer no local. Os pratos "para viagem" desses lugares ficam disponíveis em minutos, com embalagens próprias para a comida viajar, ser consumida em qualquer canto sem complicação e ir ao micro-ondas, se preciso. O sistema dispensa serviço: o cliente pede, paga e retira seu próprio pedido. "O 'take-out' está ganhando força no Brasil e deve crescer mais. É um conceito prático, rápido e com bom preço", diz Felipe Sigrist, sócio do Cha-Cha, que pretende abrir outras lojas com esse formato. O Cha-Cha funciona em um bonito espaço envidraçado, no térreo de um prédio no Itaim Bibi. Lá, a clientela, em geral dos escritórios ao redor, tem à disposição uma geladeira com sucos (R$ 9), saladas como a de quinoa, quiche de gruyère e mel (R$ 20), wrap de frango (R$ 20) e sobremesas. Também dá para fazer o pedido no balcão, onde estão sugestões como torta de camarão, bacalhau com batatas, salada de grãos e cuscuz paulista –a comida é então pesada (o preço muda de acordo com a receita), embalada e você paga no caixa. Em um ambiente mais informal, com balcão e um par de mesas, o Sanpo, em Pinheiros, funciona como uma déli de receitas japonesas. Lá, pratos como bentôs (espécie de marmita japonesa), donburis (bowl de arroz com diferentes opções de carne) e, em breve, saladas, podem ser levados para viagem. A clientela ainda está descobrindo o serviço. "Às vezes as pessoas vêm para almoçar aqui, mas quando descobrem que os pratos estão disponíveis para viagem, resolvem levar a comida. Mas funciona porque a espera é pouca", diz Ana Kanamura, dona. Os preços são contidos: os donburis vão de R$ 16 a R$ 21 e os bentôs (compostos de arroz, proteína, salada e acompanhamento), de R$ 20 a R$ 25. "O custo final do produto é a vantagem. Você não precisa comprar a bebida, pagar os 10% e, se estiver em casa, pode completar a refeição com outros elementos. O preço final acaba mais baixo", diz Eduardo Scott. Para o chef Checho Gonzales, dono da Comedoria Gonzáles, no Mercado de Pinheiros, o que ele oferece é um serviço rápido com bom custo-benefício. "Tenho um giro grande e, assim, consigo ter um produto mais barato. É acessível, feito para quem precisa de facilidade", diz. Tudo que está no cardápio pode ser pedido para viagem e, entre as opções, estão costelinha suína com batatas ou milho (R$ 15) e ceviche de peixe (R$ 17) ou frutos do mar (R$ 20). Dedicado à cozinha tailandesa, o Tian colocou o "take-out" em prática há seis meses. Para conseguir dar conta, não oferece todos os produtos do cardápio, só os que viajam bem (não é o caso de frituras, por exemplo) e os que ficam prontos com rapidez, caso do curry vermelho com pato, leite de coco, lichia e manjericão (R$ 33). "Começamos porque muita gente perguntava se poderia levar a comida. Temos muitos hotéis com estrangeiros por perto e também escritórios", diz Caio Alciati, chef da casa. FIRME E FORTE Além da rapidez da cozinha, outra preocupação recorrente das casas é com as embalagens usadas. Elas precisam ser resistentes, evitar vazamentos, manter a temperatura, ir ao micro-ondas (de preferência) e impedir que a receita sofra com o transporte. No Tian, por exemplo, uma embalagem plástica com divisórias separa os elementos do pad thai (macarrão de arroz tailandês; R$ 36) para que itens como broto de bambu não amoleçam. A mesma preocupação acontece no Sanpo, para que o molho não se misture ao arroz do bentô. "Precisamos fazer nossas embalagens sob medida e, por isso, elas são mais caras. Em alguns países, como EUA, existem muitas opções desses produtos à venda, mas aqui não", diz Ana Kanamura. Além disso, para minimizar o impacto do lixo produzido, o Sanpo procura usar embalagens biodegradáveis e até fazer compostagem. Na Comedoria Gonzalez, além das embalagens, até o fim do mês os garfinhos que vêm com a comida serão de bambu. Comedoria Gonzales Onde r. Pedro Cristi, 31 e 71, Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros, boxe 85, Pinheiros, São Paulo, tel. (11) 3813-8719 Cha-Cha Onde r. Lopes Neto, 340, Itaim Bibi, São Paulo, tel. (11) 2640-4004 Sanpo Onde r. Fradique Coutinho, 166, Pinheiros, São Paulo, tel. (11) 2579-0066 Tian Restaurante Onde r. Jerônimo da Veiga, 36, Itaim Bibi, São Paulo, tel. (11) 2389-9399 | comida |
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] | Rémy Martin comercializará no mercado chinês uma garrafa de conhaque capaz de se conectar à internet para garantir ao consumidor que seu conteúdo é autêntico, informou o fabricante francês. A garrafa, chamada de "Rémy Martin Club Connected Bottle", só estará disponível na China e será comercializada no fim deste ano "nas discotecas de três grandes cidades do país", disse à AFP Florence Puech, diretora de comunicação desta companhia fundada em 1724. Para comprovar que o conteúdo da garrafa é autêntico, o consumidor primeiro precisa baixar um aplicativo em seu telefone celular, desenvolvido junto à companhia Selinko. Depois só deverá aproximar o telefone da garrafa, que se comunica com ele graças a uma tecnologia sem fio e indica se ela foi aberta. A diretora de comunicação da marca reconheceu que lançar este produto na China "não é por acaso" e que neste país "as falsificações são reais e não podem ser ignoradas". China e Estados Unidos são os dois principais mercados de Rémy Martin. | comida |
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] | Com olhar atento, a russa Viktoriya Kashirceva manuseia o leite vaporizado e o mistura ao café expresso. Dali a pouco tempo, surgem desenhos delicados e surpreendentes sobre cappuccinos, lattes e macchiatos. Nascida em Moscou, Kashirceva está no Brasil para dar uma oficina de "latte art" no Octavio Café, em São Paulo. Em 2012, na Coreia do Sul, com apenas 20 anos de idade, ela conquistou o título de campeã mundial dessa modalidade muito conhecida entre baristas e frequentadores de cafeterias, que consiste em fazer desenhos com a ajuda do leite na xícara de café. A "latte art" é popular principalmente por causa de um torneio criado em 2008, numa cafeteria de Atlanta, nos Estados Unidos: o TNT (sigla para "Thursday Night Throwdown"). O evento se espalhou e acontece sempre na última quinta-feira de cada mês em várias capitais do Brasil e do mundo, onde os competidores mostram seus talentos artísticos. O Brasil tem representantes na modalidade. Quando Viktoriya foi campeã mundial, a brasileira Graciele Rodrigues, que mora em Curitiba e atualmente trabalha no Black Coffee, disputou xícara a xícara o alto do pódio com a russa e amealhou o vice-campeonato. A russa trabalha atualmente na Double B Coffee & Tea, uma rede com dezenas de cafeterias em Moscou e São Petersburgo. Pela primeira vez no Brasil, ela aproveitou para conferir a cena cafeeira paulistana e visitou endereços como Suplicy, Coffee Lab, Sofá, Santo Grão e Beluga. "Particularmente eu amo o coador japonês V60, que extrai uma bebida limpa e encorpada, e encontrei muita gente usando esse método por aqui. O trabalho que vocês estão fazendo com grãos brasileiros é muito bom. Em Moscou, nós também servimos algumas variedades do Sul de Minas e do Cerrado Mineiro, além de muito café da África. O nosso estilo de torra é mais claro, pois procuramos realçar o frescor da bebida", contou. Ela ainda diz que na Rússia o movimento de cafés especiais está desenvolvido. "Já temos um grande numero de micro torrefações, e recebemos visitas constantes de baristas campeões para oficinas e treinamentos. Eu pratiquei durante dois anos até alcançar, em 2011, o terceiro lugar no campeonato russo de 'latte art'. No ano seguinte, tentei de novo e venci, e isso me credenciou para competir no mundial, em Seul, onde consegui o primeiro lugar". No Brasil, a russa se apaixonou por tapioca recheada com doce de coco. Viktoriya veio a São Paulo a convite do Octavio Café, onde dará uma oficina de "latte art" na próxima segunda-feira (3) para interessados que já tenham conhecimentos básicos, como extração de expressos e vaporização de leite. Para fazer os desenhos, é preciso treinamento e destreza, além de dominar variáveis como textura correta do leite e controle do fluxo da espuma sobre o café na xícara para criar figuras que impressionem. Workshop de Latte Art com Viktoriya Kashirceva Quando segunda-feira (3), das 19h às 22h Onde Octavio Café - av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 2996; (11) 3074-0110 Quanto R$ 100 por pessoa (verificar se ainda há vagas) | comida |
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] | O restaurante dinamarquês Noma –terceiro colocado na lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo da revista britânica "Restaurant"– vai se mudar para Sydney, na Austrália, por dez semanas. O chef René Redzepi vai levar toda sua equipe –"do lavador de pratos ao gerente", escreveu ele em um comunicado– para o novo endereço, no bairro Barangaroo. A casa funcionará na Austrália a partir de janeiro de 2016. "A Austrália sempre me atraiu: grandes cidades, povo generoso e, é claro, sol sempre presente. Mas o que realmente me impressiona são as diferentes paisagens e ingredientes que você pode encontrar. Honestamente, eu nunca vi nada igual", diz o chef no site do restaurante. Não é a primeira vez que o Noma passa uma temporada fora de casa, que fica em Copenhague. Em janeiro deste ano, o restaurante passou cinco semanas no Hotel Mandarin Oriental, em Tóquio, no Japão, onde serviu menus-degustação de 15 pratos por R$ 960. A casa já foi eleita a melhor do mundo quatro vezes (em 2010, 2011, 2012 e 2014). Neste ano, o restaurante ficou em terceiro lugar na lista dos 50 melhores do mundo. | comida |
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] | Acontecerá de 21 a 30 de agosto mais uma edição do Festival Cultura e Gastronomia Tiradentes, na cidade histórica de Minas Gerais. O festival reúne pequenos produtores, cozinheiros e outros interessados na gastronomia para aulas, jantares e outros eventos ligados à gastronomia e à cultura. Nesta edição, haverá espaços para aulas gratuitas (com temáticas das regiões Norte e Sul do país, por exemplo), espaço para degustação de sabores brasileiros, restaurantes na praça e oficinas de plantio e colheita de alimentos. Alguns jantares vão ser realizados em restaurantes da cidade, custando entre R$ 250 e R$ 320. As casas abertas a estes eventos são Kitanda Brasil, Pacco e Bacco, Angatu e Via Destra. As reservas podem ser feitas pelos telefones (31) 9965-2505 e (31) 2516-0333 a partir desta terça (28). No Kitanda Brasil, o chef Ari Kespers, do Provence Cottage e Bistrô (Monte Verde) vai preparar no sábado (22) um menu com stinco de cordeiro com mel, polenta e crocante de milho-verde, por exemplo. No Via Destra, a chef Manu Buffara, do Manu (Curitiba), fará um jantar na sexta (21). O chef Marcelo Corrêa Bastos, do Jiquitaia (São Paulo), estará na mesma casa no sábado (22) e o chef Rafa Costa e Silva, do Lasai (Rio de Janeiro), na sexta-feira (28). | comida |
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] | O Senac Aclimação terá um curso de extensão universitária sobre os tradicionais pães franceses, com certificado emitido pela escola Lenôtre de Paris. As aulas, que começam no dia 3 de agosto, vão abordar as técnicas de fermentação ensinadas na França e aspectos da boulangerie do país. As inscrições para o curso, que dura três dias e vai das 9h às 18h, já estão abertas e podem ser feitas no site sp.senac.br/aclimacao ou pelo telefone (11) 3795-1299. O curso custa R$ 2.344,00. O valor pode ser parcelado em 4 vezes no boleto bancário ou em 6 vezes nos cartões de crédito. Pães Franceses Tradicionais – Parceria Lenôtre Quando de 3 a 5 de agosto (seg., ter. e qua.) das 9h00 às 18h00 Onde Senac Aclimação; r. Pires da Mota, 838 (próximo da estação Vergueiro do Metrô) | comida |
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] | Ervas, partes de cactos, pimentas, queijos e grãos, juntos, somavam 168 quilos. Todos esses produtos vieram do México para o Brasil nas malas de cozinheiros. Com eles, o chef Eric González vai preparar receitas típicas de seu país durante a 10ª Semana de la Gastronomia Mexicana y del Tequila do Obá, em São Paulo. No restaurante Obá, na região dos Jardins, González vai reproduzir métodos de preparo e sabores de várias partes do México –algumas das receitas integram o cardápio do La Gruta, casa que funciona dentro de uma caverna do sítio arqueológico de Teotihuacán, nos arredores da Cidade do México, cuja cozinha é comandada por ele. O festival, que começou nesta quinta (23), vai até o dia 2 de agosto. Durante o período, clientes vão poder provar chile ancho com caldillo de frijoles (pimenta recheada com palmito, cogumelo e queijo, com molho de feijão, por R$ 49), tostadas de salpicón de conejo (tortillas crocantes com salada de carne desfiada, por R$ 32), guajolote en mole de lechuga (medalhões do peito do peru em mole de alfaces, por R$ 58) e outras receitas tradicionais. 10ª Semana de la Gastronomia Mexicana y del Tequila do Obá Quando de 23/7 a 2/8 Onde Oba (r. Dr. Melo Alves, 205, Cerqueira César; tel. 11/ 3086-4774) | comida |
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] | O food truck do restaurante Mocotó, inaugurado em junho, estará na próxima edição da Feirinha Gastronômica. O evento acontecerá no domingo (26), no Butantan Food Park, das 12h às 19h. O truck venderá famosas receitas do restaurante nordestino, localizado na Vila Medeiros e comandado pelo chef Rodrigo Oliveira. O público vai poder provar pirão de galinha com cuscuz de galinheiro (R$ 20), dadinhos de tapioca (R$ 15) e torresmo (R$ 10). Além do carro do Mocotó, vão estar no Butantan Food Park o Ruaa, o chef Lucas Corazza, a bike Los Mendozitos, entre outros. Butantan Food Park Onde r. Agostinho Cantu, 47, Butantã Quando domingo (26), das 12h às 19h Quanto entrada gratuita | comida |
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] | O food truck La Peruana começou na última semana uma campanha de financiamento coletivo para ajudar na construção de sua nova sede fixa, nos Jardins, em São Paulo. Depois de um ano de funcionamento, o truck de culinária típica do país andino vai virar cevicheria, com previsão de abertura para agosto. "Como a obra ainda está em curso, pode ser que atrase um pouco", diz a descrição no site. A intenção da chef peruana Marisabel Woodman é expandir o cardápio, que hoje oferece ceviches de R$ 20 a R$ 25 e tem como receita clássica o peixe marinado no limão, coentro e pimenta, acompanhado de milho e batata-doce. Até o momento, a campanha arrecadou R$ 1.380. A meta é juntar R$ 15 mil até 5 de setembro. Em troca, os colaboradores podem receber recompensas que vão de uma sobremesa no novo estabelecimento a aulas de ceviche e eventos para 40 pessoas. O novo endereço será na al. Campinas, 1.357. | comida |
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] | Provar, conhecer, saborear. Essa é a ideia da quinta edição do Dum Day, que acontece no próximo sábado (25), em Curitiba, no museu Oscar Niemeyer. A festa, que comemora o aniversário de cinco anos da cervejaria local Dum e deve atrair cerca de mil pessoas, vai oferecer 73 variedades da bebida –de marcas de várias regiões do país, mas principalmente do Paraná. O Estado, nos últimos anos, se tornou um dos principais polos do país da produção de cervejas artesanais –aquela com produção de até 300 mil litros por mês, segundo os critérios da associação local. Hoje, nas vias de Curitiba, o chope de marcas locais divide espaço com o de grandes marcas industriais, bares especializados neste tipo de produto cresceram, assim como o número de empórios que comercializam cervejas mais elaboradas. Este movimento começou a se consolidar no final da década passada, quando pequenos produtores estreitaram relações, graças a eventos como as aulas oferecidas pela Bodebrown, uma das primeiras cervejarias-escolas do Brasil. Nesses encontros, segundo o sócio da Dum Murilo Foltran, os produtores passaram a dialogar e se dar conta que a cerveja que faziam podia melhorar de qualidade e se tornar comercial. "Sem contar que muitos paranaenses, por causa da colonização europeia do Estado, tiveram contato com a fabricação em casa –minha família, de origem polonesa, por exemplo, fazia cerveja em casa", conta Luciano Wengrzinski, diretor-presidente da Procerva (Associação das Microcervejarias do Paraná) e proprietário da Wensky Beer, da cidade de Araucária, na região metropolitana de Curitiba. Como resultado, o Paraná tem hoje 15% do total de 300 microcervejarias estimadas no Brasil. No último Festival Brasileiro da Cerveja, de 2014, as marcas do Estado conquistaram um terço das medalhas disputadas. O Dum Day é justamente uma chance de provar esse reconhecimento, segundo Foltran. "Nossa ideia é divulgar para mais gente a história dessas cervejas, para que as pessoas saibam que há cervejarias de qualidade em vários lugares do país", diz. Na entrada do evento, os visitantes vão receber uma taça e um vale para tomar uma Jan Kubis, uma american pale lager da Dum –boa opção para matar a vontade de cerveja enquanto entra na fila para trocar fichas. As barracas venderão, por preços entre R$ 3 e R$ 7 (60% dos rótulos custarão até R$ 4), doses de 150 ml de chope. Uma boa ideia para diversificar a experiência é ir com amigos. "Assim, cada um pega uma cerveja de um estilo e todos provam várias bebidas", recomenda Foltran. Entre os destaques nas torneiras, a Petroleum, russian imperial stout da Dum, será oferecida em dez variações. Veja o cardápio completo aqui. Para manter o ânimo e não se deixar abater com o álcool, sanduíches, massas, frios, doces e sorvetes estarão à venda, entre R$ 5 e R$ 20. * DUM DAY 5 Onde Museu Oscar Niemeyer (Salão de Eventos); r. Marechal Hermes, 999, Curitiba (PR) Quando sábado (25), das 12h às 22h Quanto R$ 50 (no segundo lote); na hora, R$ 60 Mais dumcervejaria.com.br | comida |
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] | O chef francês Erick Jacquin, jurado do programa "MasterChef", publicou um vídeo em seu perfil no Facebook em resposta à crítica de seu novo restaurante, Le Bife, avaliado como "ruim" pela jornalista da Folha Luiza Fecarotta. "Eu estou aqui para resolver, e eu vou", diz o chef no vídeo, após explicar que seu restaurante fora mal avaliado na Folha e na rádio CBN. Veja vídeo "Em breve vai ser tudo perfeito aqui, porque eu não vou admitir ser menos que o melhor", continua Jacquin, que ainda faz um sinal de positivo. O recém aberto Le Bife fica no Itaim Bibi, no mesmo local em que ficava o extinto La Brasserie, também do chef francês. A casa serve apenas dois cortes de carne, filé-mignon (R$ 62) e entrecôte (R$ 69), que foram servidos mornos e fora do ponto pedido em mais de uma visita da Folha. Os acompanhamentos são servidos em sistema de rodízio. As batatas fritas foram criticadas por estarem murchas e cruas. | comida |