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] | A primeira edição paulistana do festival Fartura, realizada durante este final de semana no Jockey Club, caiu no gosto do público da cidade. A organização do evento informou que vendeu todos os 8.000 ingressos disponibilizados ao público durante os dois dias do festival. Ao todo, foram servidos cerca de 20 mil pratos, totalizando oito toneladas de alimentos. O sucesso foi tanto que houve inclusive relatos de cambistas nas imediações do Jockey, que revendiam os ingressos, que custavam R$ 20, a R$ 40. O festival, que teve pela primeira vez representantes da culinária de todos os Estados brasileiros, também contou com uma programação musical que incluiu uma participação da cantora Elza Soares, no final do primeiro dia do evento. DOMINGO No segundo dia do festival, os ingressos para a entrada no Jockey esgotaram-se rapidamente, por volta das 14h30. Antes do meio-dia, horário de abertura do evento, o trânsito parava na rua que dá para o estacionamento do portão onde estão instaladas as barraquinhas e palcos. No caminho, flanelinhas avisam que cobram o mesmo que o estacionamento do Jockey (R$ 30). O contador Danili Viel, 25, é um dos que esperam para comprar ingresso. Ele veio de Sertãozinho para passar o fim de semana em São Paulo, e resolveu aproveitar o programa gastronômico-cultural. "Não esperava tanta fila, mas também, não me programei. Em São Paulo tudo fica lotado", diz. Quem se beneficiou da voracidade do público paulistano foi a chef Ariani Malouf, do Mahalo, de Cuiabá. O espaço da chef do restaurante mato-grossense foi um dos mais disputados ao longo dos dois dias do festival. Depois de vender 400 das 500 porções preparadas para o festival no primeiro dia do evento, Maluf teve que alterar a sua receita no segundo dia do Fartura, substituindo a costela original por filet mignon. A alteração não desagradou ao público e todas as porções foram vendidas. Vanda Rodrigues diz ter esperado uma hora na fila do Mahalo para provar o pê-efe e explicou um motivo inusitado para a preferência. "É o prato maiorzinho. Comi o arroz cremoso [do Picuí, de Maceió], estava uma delícia, mas não matou a fome", disse. GELADEIRA VAZIA A alta procura do público acabou se refletindo nos cardápios oferecidos pelos expositores. O chef Léo Paixão, do Glouton, também foi forçado a bolar um "novo prato". A barriga de porco ao molho teriaki de cachaça virou churrasco suíno, com espetinhos feitos na brasa - ontem ele vendeu as 500 porções que havia preparado para o fim de semana. Os comensais esperam cerca de 25 minutos para serem servidos em sua barraquinha. No food truck do chef Lucas Corazza, só restou chocolate quente com bergamota. Foram vendidos todos os 400 doces preparados para o fim de semana de evento. Quem tem restaurante em São Paulo conseguiu recorrer a suas geladeiras para chegar ao evento hoje de estoques renovados. Angelita Gonzaga, do Arimbá, assou os rojões que tinha lá para trazer ao Fartura. No espaço dos produtores, o primeiro item a acabar foi o queijo da Serra da Canastra, que teve cem unidades vendidas no Fartura. "Acabou muito rápido. Vendemos quase tudo no primeiro dia", diz Magno Carvalho Ferreira, da Aprocan (Associação dos Produtores da Canastra). DEGUSTAÇÃO Entre os pratos exóticos que fizeram sucesso no último dia do Fartura, nenhum se destacou mais do que a carne de tartaruga. Picado na ponta da faca, o peito do animal foi servido com farofa. A receita é da cozinheira Solange Sussuarana, 63, que comanda o restaurante Café Aymoré, em Macapá (AP). A palestra da chef despertou a curiosidade do público. Quem não conseguiu lugar na plateia, com 40 lugares, observou do lado de fora a preparação da receita. "Fiquei interessada porque é uma carne muito exótica. É uma pena que não vou conseguir experimentar daqui", diz a médica Claudini Cerqueira, 33. Na plateia, um dos mais interessados era Eduardo Prado, 14, ex-participante do programa Master Chef Junior. Ele subiu ao palco duas vezes para fazer perguntas sobre o preparo e olhar o cozimento da carne na panela. "O sabor da tartaruga é único, nunca comi nada igual", afirma o menino. "Achei gostoso e muito bem temperado." PREPARO Uma receita mais tradicional também caiu nas graças dos visitantes. O cheiro dos cookies preparados pelos participantes da aula comandada pelo confeiteiro Lucas Corazza escapava dos fornos e invadia os corredores do evento. A receita dos biscoitinhos tipicamente americanos foi escolhida por Corazza para apresentar três tipos de chocolate de origem brasileira - ele usou versões branca, ao leite e meio amarga com 63% de cacau. Na mais disputada entre as atividades do local, havia gente em pé dentro e fora do espaço. Elanis Moraes, de Florianópolis, era a primeira da fila e aguardou mais de duas horas para conseguir lugar em uma das bancadas. MÚSICA Neste domingo, a programação musical da primeira edição paulistana do festival Fartura teve mineiros, paulistas e uma revelação cearense.. O violinista mineiro Thiago Delgado abriu a programação no palco principal. Ele apresentou músicas de seu último álbum, "Viamundo" acompanhado por bateria, baixo e teclado. Na sequência, o grupo Lenis Rino levou ao Jockey Club sua "descontrução" do álbum "Fatal", de Gal Costa, show que estreou em Belo Horizonte. Às 15h30, horário de pico nas barracas de comida, quando os ingressos para o festival já estavam encerrados, a cearense Lorena Nunes apresentou um repertório dançante, indo do forró a Tim Maia. Lorena foi descoberta pela equipe do Fartura quando o festival foi realizado no Ceará. Impressionados pela voz (incrível) e pelo carisma da moça, os curadores artísticos resolveram incluí-la na edição paulistana. Na parte de artes cênicas, o destaque foi o teatro de bonecos do Grupo Sobrevento. A história girava em torna da produção artesanal de farinha e foi acompanhada por um trio de forró "raiz". A programação artística do Fartura foi encerrada com o show do paulistano Curumim. Ao lado de Zé Nigro, Lucas Martins e André Lima, Curumim interpretou clássicos de Steve Wonder, como "Superstition", "Sunshine of my Life" e "I Just Call to Say I Love You". Fez um show delícia para o público que permaneceu após a folia gastronômica. A fartura se encerrou com o povo bebendo vinho e cantando junto com o baterista que só ligaram para dizer "I Love You". (MAGÊ FLORES, IARA BIDERMAN, JÚLIA ZAREMBA, MARÍLIA MIRAGAIA, CAROLINA MUNIZ) | comida |
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] | O primeiro dia da edição paulistana do festival Fartura, no Jockey Club, em São Paulo, neste sábado (25), ofereceu comida, diversão e arte para todos os gostos. O evento, do qual a Folha é parceira, nasceu de um projeto que realiza expedições pelo país para mapear e catalogar ingredientes e produtores, muitas vezes anônimos, que ajudam a compor a cadeia alimentar no Brasil -de cabo a rabo, do campo à mesa. A primeira edição paulistana do Fartura é também simbólica porque, depois de encerrado o primeiro ciclo das expedições, que percorreu os 26 Estados brasileiros mais o Distrito Federal, pela primeira vez no evento haverá ao menos um representante de cada uma dessas paradas. Antes do meio-dia, horário de abertura do festival, o público já aumentava em frente à bilheteria. Ao todo, 3.500 pessoas foram ao primeiro dia do evento e 8.000 pratos foram servidos, o que equivale a um total de três toneladas de alimentos. Enquanto os primeiros visitantes entravam, contudo, as panelas já estavam a todo vapor. Os chefs chegaram cedo e, às 9h, já estavam cozinhando em suas barraquinhas. PROCURA ALTA Apenas começou a hora do almoço e havia fila para experimentar o pê-efe da chef Ariani Malouf (Mahalo), de Cuiabá. Às 14h, essa era a barraquinha que atraía o maior número de pessoas. "Deve ser bom mesmo", dizia alguém que passava. Pois no prato, costela bovina que solta do osso é acompanhada de arroz cremoso com queijo de coalho, ovo, banana e farofa (R$ 25). Segundo a chef, até as 16h30 já haviam sido vendidas 400 porções do prato. Ariani afirmou que teria que encerrar as atividades da sua cozinha, já que os ingredientes são trazidos diretamente do Mato Grosso, e ela precisaria economizar para servir mais pratos no segundo dia do evento. Os chefs são orientados pela organização do Fartura a produzirem 500 porções de seus pratos para os dois dias do festival. A grande procura pelos pratos salgados trouxe como principal consequência uma alta demanda por sobremesas. O cheiro de brigadeiro de cacau em um dos corredores do evento animou os visitantes a enfrentarem a fila para comprar o doce. O tempo de espera chegou a 20 minutos. Dona Nena, a chef, conversava enquanto enrolava o doce. Por volta das 18h30 ela já havia vendido 700 unidades. "Pedi ajuda pro pessoal e estou fazendo mais. Tinha me preparado para vender até 500 hoje." MÚSICA A programação cultural que acompanha o evento, e que tem entre os destaques as apresentações de Anelis Assumpção (que recebe Elza Soares) e Curumim, além de atrações para crianças -caso das companhias Pia Fraus e Sobrevento, começou pontualmente às 13h. Dividida entre o palco principal e o espaço cultural –tablado no setor de comida de boteco e food trucks, o sábado teve MPB, rock e teatro para o público infantil. Isaías e seus Chorões, a primeira banda a se apresentar, tocaram por mais de uma hora clássicos do chorinho. As mesas em frente ao palco, no início ainda vazias, foram lotando durante o show. Depois de uma degustação de cacto, os pais gourmets puderam levar seus filhos para o caatinga cenográfica montada no espaço cultural, onde a cia. Pia Fraus apresentou "Bichos do Brasil". Por volta das 18h, quando a temperatura começou a cair, a banda Mustache & os Apaches chegou para esquentar o público, que se aproximou do palco principal para dançar o "folk jazz" do grupo. O grande destaque do dia foi a apresentação das cantoras Elza Soares e Anelis Assumpção, que encerraram com muita energia a programação cultural. Mesmo com os termômetros marcando quinze graus, o show reuniu mais de cem pessoas, que entoavam animadas as canções das cantoras. Alguns chefs também aproveitaram para curtir o som das duas, como Léo Gonçalves (Cozinha DOC). Elza entrou no palco logo após Anelise cantar a música "Elza Soares", de autoria do seu pai, Itamar Assumpção. O público ficou em polvorosa com a cantora, que estava em uma cadeira de rodas. A artista cantou três músicas: "Maria da Vila Matilde", "A carne" e "Volta por cima". O público até pediu "bis", mas Elza, de quase 80 anos, não cedeu e se despediu mandando beijos no microfone. AULAS Além de experimentar pratos criados por chefs de diferentes regiões do país e de aproveitar a programação cultural, o público também teve a chance de conhecer mais sobre a história, a técnica e curiosidades de algumas dessas receitas nas aulas e demonstrações apresentadas ao longo do festival. O chef Fernando Oliveira, dono da loja "A Queijaria", destacou em sua palestra o crescimento do consumo de queijo no país -segundo ele, em torno de 10% ao ano. "Nós vamos virar a pátria do queijo. Temos um mercado pronto pra absorvê-lo, terras e, o mais importante, biodiversidade. Vivemos uma revolução queijeira", disse. Outros espaços também apregoavam novas revoluções, levantando-se contra ingredientes tradicionais. "Quando a gente fala que a receita tem cacto, todo mundo faz uma cara", disse o cozinheiro sergipano Timóteo Domingos, durante sua aula no Espaço Degustação. Aos 19 anos, ele é conhecido como "chef do sertão" por transformar as plantas da caatinga, até então utilizadas na alimentação de animais, em receitas premiadas. Já o estande da Cajuespi (Cooperativa dos Produtores de Cajuína do Piauí) impressionava pela variedade. Eram 400 receitas à base de caju. Era ali que Leonildo Lima, entusiasta da fruta, mostrava produtos como a cachaça de caju, o mel de caju (uma espécie de melado) e uma cerveja com ela. Apesar do portfólio grande, a marca só consegue produzir 14 das 400 receitas que tem. Entre elas, tem até um espumante, "que já esta no mercado em Teresina", diz. Victor Serrano Pereira experimentou e comprou uma cachaça. "Tem um gosto muito legítimo da fruta e só depois desse sabor você sente o álcool. É muito gostoso", diz. LADO A LADO Uma das atrações mais procuradas ao longo do primeiro dia do festival foi o Espaço Interativo, onde os visitantes comandavam as caçarolas sob a orientação de chefs renomados. Durante todo o dia, filas se formaram na porta do local. O casal paulistano Silmara Cosme e Marcos Dutra aguardou mais de 1h30 para garantir espaço na aula da chef Bel Coelho, à frente do restaurante Clandestino. A chef coordenou a demonstração mais disputada, e preparou um filé de pintado defumado guarnecido de purê de banana-da-terra e farofa de jatobá mais caapeba. "Eu sirvo esse prato em um menu-degustação criado a partir do bioma do pantanal", explicou ela. A programação do Fartura pode ser vista no site do festival –no qual também há um link para a compra de ingressos. (MAGÊ FLORES, IARA BIDERMAN, JÚLIA ZAREMBA, MARÍLIA MIRAGAIA, CAROLINA MUNIZ) | comida |
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] | Parte do projeto que culmina no festival Fartura consiste em garimpar ingredientes e preparos que são referência cultural, parte da identidade local e motor da economia de famílias; no Fartura, eles estão a venda por valores que vão de R$ 3 a R$ 98. Um desses produtos curiosos, comum em países europeus como a França, é a flor de sal. A produção brasileira dessa especiaria começa agora a ganhar relevância no mercado. Parte desse movimento, a Cimsal uma indústria salineira potiguar mostra no Fartura seu produto, que vem diretamente de Mossoró, no Rio Grande do Norte. "Ganhamos a oportunidade de mostrar nosso produto", diz Roberto de Freitas, gerente da marca. O engenheiro Marcos Mariotto e a terapeuta Silvana Mariotto estão familiarizados com o produto italiano e, pela primeira vez vão experimentar a versão nacional. "É um produto mais saudável, com menos sódio e brasileiro", diz Marcos. A flor de sal nada mais é do que a primeira camada, muito delicada, que se forma depois que a água do mar armazenada em tanques na salina evapora. O beneficiamento é todo manual, sem qualquer uso de máquinas. "Ela é muito sensível, pode se desfazer se não for bem manipulada", diz Freitas. O sabor do produto lembra muito o do mar, já que ele possui uma alta concentração de minerais, mas tem menos poder de salga. Por isso, é utilizado normalmente na finalização de pratos. CAJU Já outro produto, mais trivial, impressiona pela variedade. Imagine 400 produtos à base de caju. Se você não consegue, então vá ao estande da Cajuespi (Cooperativa dos Produtores de Cajuína do Piauí), conversar com Leonildo Lima. Entusiasta da fruta, ele criou produtos como a cachaça de caju, o mel de caju (uma espécie de melado) e uma cerveja com ela. Apesar do portfólio grande, a marca só consegue produzir 14 das 400 receitas que tem. Entre elas, tem até um espumante, "que já esta no mercado em Teresina", diz. Victor Serrano Pereira experimentou e comprou uma cachaça. "Tem um gosto muito legítimo da fruta e só depois desse sabor você sente o álcool. É muito gostoso", diz. Apesar da variedade, o destaque da produção da Cajuespi é a cajuina, com 420 mil unidades ano passado, feitos com caju oriundos de 2.700 famílias de pequenos produtores. Espécie de refresco de caju, é feito do suco decantado, coado e cozido em banho-maria. "Para ser bom não se deve acrescentar açúcar ou outro ingrediente. É o suco da fruta puro", diz Lenildo. A programação do Fartura pode ser vista no site do festival –no qual também há um link para a compra de ingressos. | comida |
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] | "Quando a gente fala que a receita tem cacto, todo mundo faz uma cara", diz o cozinheiro sergipano Timóteo Domingos, durante sua aula no Espaço Degustação do festival Fartura. Aos 19 anos, ele é conhecido como "chef do sertão" por transformar as plantas da caatinga, até então utilizadas na alimentação de animais, em receitas premiadas. "Jamais tinha passado pela minha cabeça que era possível fazer um prato com cacto", diz a artesã Silvia Mazinini, 60. Ela foi escolhida na plateia por Timóteo para a função de degustadora oficial. A cada novo ingrediente, Silvia era solicitada pelo chef. O seu favorito foi o xique-xique: "Tem a consistência de chuchu, mas é azedinho", afirma. O restante do público, cerca de 40 pessoas, também pôde provar receitas elaboradas com ingredientes da caatinga, como umbu e urtiga. A mais famosa é a cocactus, uma cocada feita com palma, um tipo de cacto. O doce foi criado por Timóteo quando ele ainda era criança. Para ajudar na renda familiar, ele vendia cocada aos colegas no intervalo da escola, em Canindé (SE). Num dia, o coco faltou e aí veio a ideia de inserir a palma, um tipo de cacto. "Não falei para ninguém que tinha palma", conta o chef. "O pessoal falou que estava mais saborosa do que antes." A estratégia utilizada por Timóteo na aula foi exatamente essa: oferecer o prato à plateia e só depois contar do que ele é feito. "A ideia é que as pessoas experimentem e imaginem mil coisas", diz o chef, que hoje tem no repertório mais de 1.200 receitas. No final da degustação, Timóteo convidou a todos para fazer uma roda e dançar forró. "O prato final é um detalhe. O mais importante é valorizar o contexto histórico e cultural da nossa região", afirma. RÃS Nem o vento gelado da noite paulistana diminuiu o desejo do público de experimentar carne de rã. No Espaço Degustação, a plateia de cerca de 30 pessoas teve a chance de provar dois pratos feitos com a iguaria: bolinho de carne de rã e carne de rã à milanesa. "Não como carne de boi, de porco e nem de frango, mas quis provar a de rã para saber qual é o gosto", afirma Maura Costa, 48, que trabalha na área comercial. "Parece um frango, só que mais úmido." A professora Márcia Matos, 53, também comeu rã pela primeira vez. "Tem menos gordura que o frango. Gostei muito das duas receitas", diz. A degustação foi realizada durante a palestra do produtor Ivanilto Cunha, 42, que há dois anos cria mais de 10 mil rãs em Monte Negro, no interior de Rondônia. "Ser produtor de rãs era um sonho de infância", conta Ivanilto, que também é operador de máquinas pesadas no garimpo. "No começo, recebi muitas críticas. Ninguém achava que iria dar certo." Na produção, trabalham apenas Ivanilto, a esposa e o filho. O abate é realizado manualmente. Aos seis meses, as rãs são colocadas em um recipiente com gelo e sal. Depois, é feita a sangria. O produto é comercializado ao preço de R$ 70/kg a restaurantes e supermercados da região. Esta foi a primeira aula ministrada por Ivanilto. "O pessoal do Fartura me achou quando fez a visita a Rondônia, buscando coisas diferentes de lá. Para mim, estar aqui hoje é muito gratificante. Não preciso ganhar dinheiro para dizer que sou vitorioso", afirma. CHURRASCO No espaço Cozinha ao Vivo, a alguns metros dali, cerca de 40 pessoas se esticavam para ouvir André Lima de Luca (All Fire Lab) falar sobre churrasco. Quatro grandes peças de carne são preparadas sob sua batuta, na brasa. O termômetro indica que a carne esta a 20 graus em seu interior - isso quer dizer que ela vai demorar para ficar pronta (a 56 graus estaria perfeita). "É melhor já ir fazendo a farofa", palpita Beatriz, de 8 anos, filha do especialista, em alto e bom som (as crianças não tiram os olhos do pai). "As pessoas me perguntam quanto tempo levei para preparar aquela carne. Eu digo que não se trata disso, mas sim qual era a temperatura dela." | comida |
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] | Além de experimentar pratos criados por chefs de diferentes regiões do país, o público do festival Fartura também teve a chance de conhecer mais sobre a história, a técnica e curiosidades de algumas dessas receitas no Espaço Aulas. A versatilidade da culinária brasileira foi o tema da primeira aula do dia, ministrada pelo chef baiano Jorge Luiz da Hora de Jesus, professor de gastronomia do Centro Universitário Senac. Entre todas as lições de culinária passadas aos alunos, Jorge destacou a importância de estudar a história das receitas tradicionais para conseguir inovar na cozinha. "A culinária brasileira não está engessada. O que comemos hoje não comeremos amanhã. Precisamos revisitar a história para conseguir, com maestria e domínio de técnica, ousar para o futuro", afirmou. Além da aula, também houve uma degustação de um prato criado pelo chef: crème brûlée de pirarucu defumado. A receita foi muito elogiada pelo público, composto por cerca de 20 pessoas. REVOLUÇÃO QUEIJEIRA Já o chef Fernando Oliveira, dono da loja "A Queijaria", destacou o crescimento do consumo de queijo no país –segundo ele, em torno de 10% ao ano. "Nós vamos virar a pátria do queijo. Temos um mercado pronto pra absorvê-lo, terras e, o mais importante, biodiversidade. Vivemos uma revolução queijeira", disse. Para Oliveira, no entanto, os brasileiros ainda consomem muito pouco queijo em relação a outros países - uma média de 6,5 quilos por ano, contra 28 quilos na Grécia e 25 quilos na Argentina. O público, de aproximadamente 50 pessoas, também pôde aproveitar a degustação de cinco tipos de queijos, do mais forte para o mais suave: coalho, serrano, canastra, joaninha, branco de cássia e do serro. SOBREMESA Depois de tanto sal, foi a vez da chef Rita Medeiros, da Sorbê Sorvetes Artesanais, de Brasília, falar sobre a matéria-prima das suas receitas: as frutas do cerrado. "Enquanto nos outros biomas há nichos ecológicos, no cerrado, em um espaço de apenas um metro quadrado, você encontra uma diversidade de espécies", afirmou. O público, de cerca de 20 pessoas, também pôde experimentar cinco diferentes sabores de sorvetes - cajuzinho, pequi, jenipapo, araticum e murici. Além deles, os chefs Léo Gonçalves, da Cozinha DOC, Juliana Motter, da Maria Brigadeiro, e Tatiana Peebles, da Fazenda Yaguara Ecológio, também vão palestrar no espaço. A programação do Fartura pode ser vista no site do festival –no qual também há um link para a compra de ingressos. | comida |
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] | Antes do meio-dia, horário de abertura da primeira edição paulistana do festival Fartura, o público já aumentava em frente à bilheteria do evento montado no Jockey Club de São Paulo. Enquanto entravam os primeiros visitantes, as panelas já estavam a todo vapor. Os chefs chegaram cedo e, às 9h, já estavam cozinhando em suas barraquinhas. Quem veio de longe, de João Pessoa, por exemplo, fez todo o preparo ali mesmo, em duas bocas de fogão. Onildo Rocha, do Roccia Cozinha Contemporânea, preparou o típico arroz vermelho paraibano em um panelão e aos poucos foi acrescentando feijão verde, carne de sol e queijo de coalho para o seu baião de dois, servido com um ácido picles de maxixe (R$ 25). Apenas começou a hora do almoço e havia fila para experimentar o pê-efe da chef Ariani Malouf (Mahalo), de Cuiabá. Às 14h, essa era a maior fila. "Deve ser bom mesmo", dizia alguém que passava. Pois no prato, costela bovina que solta do osso é acompanhada de arroz cremoso com queijo de coalho, ovo, banana e farofa (R$ 25). Segundo a chef, até as 16h30 já haviam sido vendidas 400 porções do prato. Ariani afirmou que teria que encerrar as atividades da sua cozinha, já que os ingredientes são trazidos diretamente do Mato Grosso, e ela precisaria economizar para servir mais pratos no segundo dia do evento. Os chefs são orientados pela organização do Fartura a produzirem 500 porções de seus pratos para os dois dias do festival. Nas mesas, disputadas, não raro se veem tacinhas de vinho de um lado e folheto com a programação do outro, enquanto os comensais discutem qual será a próxima receita. O vinho harmoniza com o vento fresco que percorre o Jockey Club, e baixa as temperaturas mesmo com o solzinho presente. Em outra ponta, apesar de marcada para 16h, a Cozinha ao Vivo de Antônio Costaguta (El Topador), de Porto Alegre, começou mais cedo. Costaguta montou um fogo de chão com quatro costelões bovinos e um cordeiro inteiro às 8h30. A carne, cheirosa e dourada, chama a atenção de todo o mundo que passa. "Estou tomando pitos porque ela não está pronta", brinca o gaúcho. As 80 porções serão servidas no horário marcado, com farinha de mandioca e molhos a R$ 25. "Isso é carne de boi?", perguntou o pequeno Pedro Henrique Malta, de 5 anos, ao pai Alberto Malta, ao ver os costelões. O pai responde que sim, apesar de ser "um churrasco diferente do nosso, com a carne em pedaços maiores e madeira para o fogo". SHOWS A programação cultural que acompanha o evento, e que terá entre os destaques as apresentações de Anelis Assumpção (que recebe Elza Soares) e Curumim, além de atrações para crianças –caso das companhias Pia Fraus e Sobrevento, começou pontualmente às 13h, no palco principal. Isaías e seus Chorões tocaram por mais de uma hora clássicos do chorinho. As mesas em frente ao palco, no início ainda vazias, foram lotando durante o show. Boa parte do público veio mesmo para comer, mas alguns, como a aposentada Virgínia Lobo Ferreira, 68, disse que veio tanto por causa do chorinho quanto dos comes e bebes. "Adoro chorinho e adoro comer. Mas não cozinho nada, sou péssima", diz Virgínia, que tinha provado o prato feito da Mahalo Cozinha Criativa, de Cuiabá: costela bovina, arroz com queijo coalho, milho, farofa, banana e ovo frito. "Pensei: ah, mas é arroz com ovo?' Comi e adorei!" O show terminou por volta das 14h, quando ainda havia fila nas bilheterias, mas a espera era pequena, não mais do que dez minutos. A programação do Fartura pode ser vista no site do festival –no qual também há um link para a compra de ingressos. | comida |
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] | Sobre um prato de cerâmica, estão acomodados pintado defumado, farofa de jatobá enroscada em caapeba e purê de banana-da-terra. E o que vem a ser caapeba, jatobá? O menu mais maduro que a chef Bel Coelho já elaborou, servido sob reserva ao longo de curtas temporadas em seu Clandestino, em São Paulo, causa certo incômodo ao colocar o público em contato com ingredientes nunca dantes degustados -e nem sequer observados, nus e crus. Tem um valor, portanto, de educar. "As pessoas não querem consumir o que não conhecem. Formar um consumidor também promove e conserva a biodiversidade", diz Gabriel Menezes, diretor do Auá, um instituto de empreendedorismo socioambiental que trabalha com a divulgação do uso de espécies nativas da mata atlântica. Se avançarmos, pode-se dizer que o cardápio de Bel Coelho também protege espécies que correm o risco de desaparecer, uma vez que as coloca em uso -em que se pese a quantidade irrisória. A propósito, caapeba é uma planta alimentícia não convencional cujo sabor remete a um apanhado de temperos, e jatobá, uma fruta de casca dura e polpa adocicada que, cozida, exala um perfume de jaca, típica do Cerrado e ameaçada de extinção. Em seu menu, ela propõe um passeio pelos biomas e engrossa um coro de cozinheiros e ativistas que têm visto o Brasil gastronômico de um novo ponto de vista. Parece haver o consenso de fontes ouvidas pela Folha de que as divisões sociopolíticas determinadas pelo IBGE, enraizadas no nosso imaginário desde os anos 1940, começam a se desfazer no âmbito da culinária. "Houve um esgotamento dessa lógica", diz o sociólogo Carlos Alberto Dória. Serve de ilustração para algumas incongruências o fato de a indústria do turismo se fixar na cozinha praieira para caracterizar a culinária do Nordeste e deixar no anonimato o que se come no sertão, por exemplo. No Sul, em que destaca-se o churrasco, ficam escanteados ingredientes simbólicos, como o mate. "Faz muito mais sentido dividir o Brasil gastronômico pelos biomas e não pelas regiões", diz Bel Coelho, que andou debruçada em pesquisas e viagens para garimpar ingredientes nacionais. Foi Alex Atala (e seu instituto Atá), no entanto, que levou o termo da ecologia enfaticamente à mídia ao abrir os boxes de biomas no Mercado de Pinheiros, neste março. Mas, enfim, que diabos são biomas, noção já experimentada no século 19? Bel Coelho toma emprestada a definição de seu sogro, José Mariano Amabis, doutor em biologia, com o qual rascunha um livro sobre o tema. "Bioma é um conjunto de ecossistemas terrestres com vegetação característica e paisagem típica no qual predomina certo tipo de clima." COMER BIOMA Não é de hoje que o cozinheiro Gabriel Broide, à frente do Mina, em Campos do Jordão, no qual usa o que está "ao alcance das mãos", trabalha com o conceito. "Estamos nos apropriando desse termo técnico para explicar o que a gente faz." Diante do furdunço que a abertura dos boxes de Atala causou, Carlos Alberto Dória fez uma provocação em seu blog: "Eu não como bioma". "As pessoas comem produtos concretos, frutas, legumes, independentemente da origem", diz à Folha. "Bioma não é uma categoria explicativa da culinária, é uma explicação botânica, que não está ligada a nenhum processo de produção." Bem, sobre "comer biomas", Beto Ricardo, fundador do ISA (Instituto Socioambiental), diz que eles estão sob forte ameaça por formas de exploração econômica predatórias no Brasil. "Estão literalmente comendo os nossos biomas." Nem biomas, nem Estados. Dória busca um "caminho do meio" para refletir sobre uma nova lógica de divisão do Brasil, desde outrora, quando publicou a primeira edição de "A Formação da Culinária Brasileira" (editora Publifolha), em 2009. Ele leva em conta as diversidades botânica e histórica, uma associada à outra, e propõe um redesenho do território que parte do que chama de "manchas de ingredientes". "A natureza desenhou os biomas mas eles, em si, não relevam o uso dos ingredientes. Uso é uma coisa cultural. Precisa da história e da antropologia." Pois Paulo Inácio Prado, do Instituto de Biociências da USP, desperta a atenção para o fato de que todos os biomas são ocupados por pessoas. "Se esses produtos estão sendo produzidos graças a um conhecimento tradicional, isso também é positivo. A biodiversidade também pode estar ligada a uma diversidade cultural. " O empório do qual o Auá participa no Mercado de Pinheiros, aos olhos do instituto, tem como missão conservar os biomas. "Quando a gastronomia consome esses produtos ou ajuda a divulgá-los, ela fomenta a existência desse tipo de mercado e conserva o bioma", diz Menezes. "A mudança de escala vai acontecer com o engajamento dos populares, quando o cambuci [fruto ácido da mata atlântica] virar a laranja para o suco." SERVIÇO CLANDESTINO O QUÊ menu dos biomas brasileiros QUANDO 13 a 16 de abril; 10 a 14 de maio QUANTO R$ 260 e R$ 380 (harmonizado) RESERVA (11) 2861-0010 O QUE É Bioma Região com clima característico e certo conjunto de espécies animais e vegetais DE ONDE VÊM OS SABORES Amazônia Floresta úmida de terra firme, tipos de matas, campos abertos e espécies de cerrado. É importante reserva de água doce e de biodiversidade) Ingredientes filhote (peixe de água doce de sabor delicado) e jambu (erva que amortece a boca) Caatinga Predominante no nordeste do Brasil, tem vegetação seca e espinhosa, por causa da escassez de chuva Ingredientes umbu (suculenta, aromática e agridoce) e coroa de frade (cacto usado em doces e bolos) Cerrado No Planalto Central, o cerrado tem árvores baixas, arbustos e gramíneas Ingredientes pequi (fruta amarela e perfumada) e castanha de baru (sabor que lembra amendoim) Pantanal Área de transição entre cerrado e região amazônica, tem ecossistemas periodicamente inundados Ingredientes jacaré (de carne branca e sabor suave) e jatobá (vagens de casca dura e polpa adocicada) Mata Atlântica Rica em espécies de fauna e flora, hoje tem apenas 7% de sua cobertura florestal original. Concentra os recursos hídricos que abastecem 70% da população brasileira Ingredientes cambuci (levemente doce, adstringente e bastante ácida) e uvaia (fruta amarela e pequena, azedinha) Campos sulinos/Pampas De relevo com topos mais planos, tem vegetação rala, pobre em espécies, que fica mais densa nas encostas, com gramíneas e leguminosas. Há também matas de araucárias, semelhantes à savana Ingredientes erva-mate (aromática e amarga, usada no chimarrão) e butiá (fruta ácida, doce e aromática) Biomas Costeiros Ao longo do litoral, há manguezais, restingas, praias, costões rochosos, falésias e outros ambientes ecológicos, com diferentes espécies Ingredientes manjuba (pequeno peixe de água salgada) e caju (suculento e doce) Fontes: Ministério da Agricultura, IBGE e "Misture a Gosto" (ed. Melhoramentos) | comida |
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] | Mais de cem atrações culturais e gastronômicas farão parte da primeira edição do festival Fatura em Porto Alegre (RS), nos próximos dias 16 e 17 de abril. Além do festival da capital gaúcha, o projeto é responsável pelos festivais de Belo Horizonte, São Paulo e Fortaleza, e pelo Festival Cultura e Gastronomia de Tiradentes. Durante os dois dias de evento em Porto Alegre, o público poderá experimentar pratos de diversas regiões do país –como o quibe do sertão (do Favorito Cozinha Típica, de Teresina), o cogumelo gigante recheado com javali (do La Caceria, de Gramado) e o pão de queijo recheado com pernil de lata e copa lombo (do A Pão de Queijaria, de Belo Horizonte). Também há espaços para degustação de pratos dos chefs participantes, petiscos, lanches e doces, além de comercialização de produtos típicos oriundos de produtores locais. Para quem quiser aprender mais sobre gastronomia, é possível assistir a aulas teóricas no Senac –que serão abertas e gratuitas. Os interessados ainda podem colocar a mão na massa e cozinhar sob supervisão dos chefs, além de participar de atividades de degustação, onde é possível degustar comidas típicas e conhecer métodos de preparo. Por fim, também existe a opção de acompanhar ao vivo a elaboração de receitas pelas mãos de alguns dos chefs participantes. Entre os presentes no evento estarão nomes como o mineiro Leonardo Paixão, do Glouton (eleito, em 2015, como um dos restaurantes tendência pelo ranking 50 Best Latin America, da revista 'Restaurant'). O festival conta com 34 apresentações culturais, incluindo shows musicais e teatro. Apresentam-se artistas como Samuca do Acordeon, acordeonista do Rio Grande do Sul, e o grupo Teatro Mototóti, com o espetáculo "O Vendedor de Palavras" (a peça já foi assistida por mais de 80 mil espectadores por todo Brasil, Uruguai e Argentina). PROJETO FARTURA Com o objetivo de promover a cadeia produtiva brasileira, o projeto desenvolve a Expedição Fartura, que durante os últimos cinco anos, saiu em viagem pelo Brasil garimpando ingredientes, personagens das cadeias produtivas e modos de preparo. A programação dos festivais foi pensada com base nos resultados da expedição –que são divulgados nas redes sociais e em outros meios. No início deste ano, o Fartura também foi premiado pela Organização Mundial do Turismo na categoria Inovação. PARA CONFERIR Festival Fartura Gastronomia - Porto Alegre ONDE estacionamento BarraShoppingSul, setor B; av. Diário de Notícias, 300, Cristal - Porto Alegre QUANDO 16 e 17/4; das 13h às 23h QUANTO entrada a R$ 15; compra on-line e mais informações no site | comida |
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] | Um forno a carvão, uma parrilla e um yakitori japonês. Esses três instrumentos prometem dar o tom ao restaurante Oro, que será reaberto por Felipe Bronze, agora como chef e proprietário da casa, na próxima terça (12), no bairro do Leblon, no Rio. A aposta da casa será a brasa. Por ela, passa a maioria dos pratos, com influências japonesa, argentina e espanhola, e divididos em dois menus: o criatividade (feito diariamente com ingredientes do mercado, respeitando a sazonalidade) e o afetividade (formado por dois pratos e com receitas consagradas do chef). Fazem parte do menu, por exemplo, pururuca de vieiras, minimilho com crocante de galinha caipira e caldinho de feijão e porco com missô, bok choy e maçã-verde. O menu criatividade custará R$ 320 ou R$ 495 com a harmonização de vinhos –a carta de vinhos foi elaborada pela sommelière argentina Cecilia Aldaz. Já o afetividade, R$ 215 ou R$ 335 (com vinhos). Bronze decidiu fechar o Oro em junho do ano passado com a proposta de reabrir o restaurante com outro conceito e em outro endereço –depois de ter sido premiado com uma estrela na edição Rio e São Paulo do guia "Michellin", em abril. "Acreditamos que a vanguarda não existe sem a tradição. Em nosso restaurante, o melhor produto e a criatividade reencontram agora a brasa e a afetividade para definir o novo Oro, em sua essência: a cozinha brasileira de vanguarda", afirmou o chef em nota divulgada à imprensa. Oro Onde r. General San Martin, 889, Leblon, Rio de Janeiro Quando ter. a sex., das 19h às 23h; sáb. das 13h às 15h e das 19h às 23h Mais para reservas: (21) 2540-8768; reservas@ororestaurante.com | comida |
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] | A cada dois dias chegam, de manhã, três carcaças de boi no Açougue Central, nova casa de carnes na Vila Madalena, em São Paulo. É James Rodrigues, açougueiro há mais de 25 anos, que faz o trabalho de destrinchar o animal –algo que aprendeu a fazer quando tinha 12 anos. "É como cortar madeira, se cortar fora do nó, muda até o gosto", diz. James faz parte da equipe do terceiro restaurante do chef Alex Atala (proprietário também do premiado D.O.M. e do Dalva e Dito), que abriu as portas nesta terça-feira (5) e tem como proposta o aproveitamento total do boi. Picanha, filé-mignon e bife ancho, no entanto, estão fora do menu. Na casa, eles recebem outros destinos, como a refeição de funcionários. "Se o restaurante trabalhasse com elas, seria igual a todos os outros", diz o açougueiro. A intenção no Açougue, explica James, é usar a parte dianteira do boi, menosprezada por "açougues de bairro, que usam um boi mais judiado". O discurso de James é semelhante ao de Atala, que costuma defender que não há cortes ruins, mas bois ruins. Os fornecedores do restaurante, Beef Passion e Bosque Velho, trabalham com as raças wagyu e angus. Isso e o modo de criação (com ração de qualidade, liberdade dentro do pasto e tempo adequado de vida dos animais) garantem que a carne seja macia e tenha bom marmoreio (gordura entremeada na carne) também em cortes dianteiros. O conceito de Atala para o cardápio, com carnes em diferentes tipos de cocção, acompanhamentos simples e brasileiros e alguns pratos para compartilhar, foi posto em prática pelo chef argentino Alejandro Peyrou, que passou seis meses testando receitas e está à frente da cozinha. "Conseguimos aproveitar 100% do boi", conta Alejandro. "Da parte dianteira, grelhamos o acém e o sete de paleta, fazemos ragu com o ossobuco e croquetes com as partes mais duras." Os croquetes citados por Alejandro, de carne desfiada e úmida e com pedacinhos de queijo de coalho (R$ 29) são destaque entre as entradas, ao lado do steak tartare com farofa de pão (R$ 45). Também é da parte dianteira o tomahawk, corte popular nos Estados Unidos, de carne suculenta, sabor suave e bom marmoreio, que integra o cardápio. A peça grelhada na brasa, de dois quilos, é servida com osso e fatiada no salão (serve de três a quatro pessoas e custa R$ 289). Acompanhamentos, como a mandioca frita em gordura do boi, são cobrados à parte (R$ 23). Numa sessão do cardápio chamada de "panela", estão o nhoque de batata com ragu de carne (R$ 62) e o músculo (que se desfaz com o garfo) com purê de cará (R$ 57). Há ainda bife de coxão-duro à milanesa com tomate, queijo e salada de folhas (R$ 69) e hambúrguer de patinho (R$ 55). Entre as sobremesas, pudim, tartelette de chocolate e sagu com vinho e creme inglês (R$ 23, cada). A partir de segunda-feira (11), a casa terá almoço-executivo, a R$ 49, com salada de entrada, carne e guarnições à vontade –opção para conhecer a casa pagando preços mais em conta. O açougue, com ganchos e facas expostas está, assim como a cozinha, às vistas do salão. Com sorte, pode-se ver o açougueiro trabalhando. * Açougue Central Onde r. Girassol, 384, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 3095-8800 Quando de seg. a qui., das das 12h às 15h e das 18h à 0h; sex. e sáb., das 12h à 1h; dom., das 12h à 0h | comida |
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] | No Jesuíno Brilhante a comida é servida "como se come lá". Lá em Patu, no sertão do Rio Grande do Norte, de onde vieram as receitas e os cozinheiros. Comida com muito leite e muita carne, "uma cozinha de fazenda, de subsistência, como era a dos meus avós, que produziam leite", conta o jornalista Rodrigo Levino, à frente do restaurante que abriu as portas nesta segunda-feira (4), em Pinheiros, sem pretensão nenhuma, quase como um lugar de estar. Da inquietude de não encontrar por aqui comida de sua terra e da vontade de trazer a família para perto, nasceu o projeto do restaurante. "A cozinha nordestina que existe em São Paulo é cearense e pernambucana, por causa da migração. Aquele feijão não é nosso", diz Levino. "O arroz de leite, a paçoca, a carne de sol são muito diferentes." No cardápio diminuto –mas que deve crescer, pois há 30 receitas na gaveta–, brilha a carne de sol. Preparada naquele sobrado por João Batista Rodrigues, pai de Rodrigo, a peça de coxão-mole passa 12 horas em sal refinado, é congelada ("para recuperar a água perdida, por isso é suculenta"), descongelada e então cozida. Na paçoca, servida como tira-gosto, é refogada com manteiga de garrafa e cebola-roxa e então recebe a farinha de mandioca e o coentro (R$ 7). Também é abre-alas a porção de bolinhos de arroz de leite, de casquinha crocante e recheio cremoso, feitos com arroz-vermelho cozido em água e leite, nata fresca, queijo de coalho, cebola-roxa, cebolinha e pimenta (R$ 12, seis unidades). São três as opções de prato principal: carne de sol na nata (desfiada e cozida em creme de leite fresco), servida com cuscuz de milho e vinagrete de tomate (R$ 20), carne de sol na chapa, com arroz-vermelho cozido com nata e queijo de coalho e feijão de corda (R$ 25), e o cozido do dia, com arroz branco e feijão de corda (R$ 18). Muitos dos ingredientes vão ser trazidos "de lá": o queijo, a manteiga, o arroz-vermelho. Doces, como a burra preta (pão de melado de cana com especiarias à semelhança de um pão de mel), nem existem aqui, diz Levino. Na casa, ela é servida com nata fresca e mel de engenho (R$ 10). O pequenino restaurante, em que pedidos são marcados em comandas pagas no caixa, funciona apenas no almoço. Em breve, terá tapiocas, "café passado" e sanduíche, ao longo da tarde. JESUÍNO BRILHANTE Onde r. Arruda Alvim, 180, Pinheiros Quando de seg. a sáb., das 12h às 15h | comida |
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] | O Sailor Burgers & Beers terá, neste sábado (2), a segunda edição do "Burger no Quintal", com música ao vivo e churrasco à céu aberto. Das 14h às 19h, os clientes poderão experimentar o hambúrguer hereford, que faz referência à raça bovina de mesmo nome. O sanduíche, com queijo brie, shitake defumado, chutney de laranja kinkan e farofinha de castanha de caju será preparado pelo chef Felipe Bellim às vistas do cliente. Serão cem unidades do sanduíche. Para harmonizar com o novo hambúrguer, o sommelier de cervejas Digão Cachate sugere a italiana Baladin Wayan (R$ 34), com 5,8% de teor alcoólico, e a holandesa La Trappe Witte (R$ 28), com teor alcoólico de 5,5%. Durante o evento, também serão servidos itens do cardápio da casa, preparados normalmente, na cozinha fechada. Burger no Quintal ONDE Sailor Burgers & Beers (r. Vupabussu, 309, Pinheiros) QUANDO 2/4, das 14h às 19h (a casa abre normalmente das 12h à 1h, mas sem cardápio especial) O QUÊ hambúrguer hereford (R$ 35) | comida |
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] | As tortillas são massas de trigo ou milho na chapa que, quando recheadas, tornam-se tacos –quitutes espalhados por feiras de rua, mercados e elegantes mesas do México. "É algo tão importante no país que dizemos 'vamos a echar un taco' para qualquer refeição rápida", já disse Lourdes Hernández, "la cocinera atrevida", que voltou à sua terra natal em 2014, depois de viver 13 anos no Brasil. Em São Paulo, um conterrâneo de Lourdes comanda a Taquería La Sabrosa, casa na rua Augusta especializada na receita. Hugo Delgado é também o idealizador do evento Taquero por um Dia, em que a casa recebe cozinheiros para "entrar no clã dos tacos". A primeira edição será realizada no domingo (3) e terá como convidado o chef Marcelo Bastos, do restaurante brasileiro Jiquitaia. Na versão do brasileiro, a massa de milho será recheada por linguiça, pé de porco, salsa verde de dedo-de-moça e pimenta-de-cheiro, coentro, cebola-roxa e rabanete (R$ 18). Além do "taco del rancho", serão servidas outras 13 receitas, do cardápio da taquería. O evento será mensal e terá outros convidados. A ETIQUETA DO TACO Como comê-lo sem passar vergonha Não peça talheres: taco se come com as mãos Não use guardanapo para segurar; sinta a textura e a temperatura da comida Dobre e segure em paralelo ao chão (por causa do molho, que pode escorrer) Comece mordendo pelos lados, como um cachorro-quente –nunca por cima Não se leva taco para casa: ele deve ser comido na hora (abandone os petiscos, se necessário) TAQUERÍA LA SABROSA Onde r. Augusta, 1474, Bela Vista; tel. (11) 2924-6989 Quando domingo (3/4), das 13h à 0h | comida |
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] | A loja de chocolates espanhóis Cacao Sampaka anunciou, nesta quarta-feira (30), o fechamento de sua loja em São Paulo e o encerramento de sua operação no Brasil. A loja na Vila Madalena deixará de funcionar no domingo (3) e, até lá, os chocolates (conhecidos por seus preços salgados) serão vendidos com desconto de 50%. A marca criada em Barcelona, no ano 2000, é de um grupo familiar que se dedica ao cacau e ao chocolate desde 1935. O primeiro ponto de venda da Cacao Sampaka na América Latina, um quiosque no shopping Morumbi, foi inaugurado em junho de 2014. A loja da Vila Madalena o substituiu no mesmo ano. Em comunicado enviado à imprensa, os responsáveis pela marca atribuíram o fechamento ao aumento do custo de operação e à retração do consumo. A marca espanhola mantém suas lojas no país de origem, no Japão e na Arábia Saudita. Cacao Sampaka Onde r. Aspicuelta, 207, Vila Madalena; tel. 11/3280-2055 | comida |
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] | Adilson Adílio de Sousa, 56, acha mais cansativo fazer queijo do que trabalhar na construção civil, ramo no qual atuou por 37 anos. Ainda assim, trocou um ofício pelo outro quando conheceu a agrônoma Elisabeth Schober, uma francesa que na ocasião precisava de "uns serviços de pedreiro". Eis que a relação desembocou em uma sociedade num laticínio, o Queijo com Sotaque, que elabora 23 receitas francesas à beira de uma rodovia em Paulo Lopes, município de Santa Catarina, a uma hora de Florianópolis. São processos como esse -particulares, artesanais e, sobretudo, brasileiros- que estiveram no radar da Expedição Fartura ao longo dos últimos cinco anos. O projeto nasceu como ramificação do Festival de Cultura e Gastronomia de Tiradentes, com o propósito de mapear o país. Garimpou-se ingredientes, personagens das cadeias produtivas e modos de preparo Brasil afora. Bem, depois de percorrer todos os Estados brasileiros (mais o DF), 176 cidades, 66 mil quilômetros em uns tantos meios de transporte -tais quais canoa, bugue, búfalo, mototáxi-, de três livros (leia em folha.com/no1755173) e de uma série de documentários a expedição encerrou seu primeiro ciclo, em Florianópolis, na semana passada. "Conversamos com produtores, historiadores, feirantes, biólogos, pescadores, cozinheiros", diz Rusty Marcellini, que coordenou as viagens dos quatro últimos anos. "A conclusão desta etapa me deu uma certeza: o Brasil tem uma gastronomia riquíssima que ainda precisa ser descoberta pelos próprios brasileiros." DE NORTE A SUL À beira do rio Negro, no Amazonas, chega-se de barco a uma comunidade na qual vive Manoel Gomes. Ele colhe mandioca-brava numa pequena roça, faz farinha d'água e enterra bucho de jaraqui, um peixe popular na região, para adubar a terra. Manuel Bandeira, o poeta, diria que o ribeirinho fala a "língua errada do povo" -o povo que fala "gostoso o português do Brasil". Pois ele mistura banha de cobra com raiz de açaí para lhe servir de cura quando o "corpo rói". Em outra população remota, em Mangue Seco (BA), uma senhora canta para atrair aratus, aqueles caranguejinhos típicos dos manguezais, que se prestam a preparos como a moqueca enrolada na folha de bananeira, como faria dona Flor, a cozinheira da ficção de Jorge Amado. Também no mangue, mas dessa vez na Ilha do Marajó, no Pará, dois meninos "parrudinhos", nas palavras de Adriana Benevenuto, a produtora da expedição, entram descalços naquela área lodosa para alcançar um tronco no qual se alojam os turus. Tratam-se de moluscos à semelhança de minhocas, degustados com limão e sal e só. Num rápido apanhado, a equipe acompanhou ainda sergipanas a tirar sururus de suas conchas; o abate de tartaruga no Macapá, com serrote, martelo e furadeira, autorizado pelo Ibama; e o preparo de uma cabeça de boi, em Tocantínia (TO), enterrada num buraco com brasas e depois compartilhada, com molho de tomate e arroz. Pois bem. Dormiu-se em barco, enfrentou-se um calor do cão, comeu-se bem (e muito). As viagens, para além do repertório intrínseco, servem de alimento aos festivais Fartura, com barracas de comida, produtos brasileiros à venda, shows, aulas e workshops de gastronomia. Com edições já realizadas em Belo Horizonte e Fortaleza, o Fartura tem parada marcada em Porto Alegre e São Paulo -esta em junho, em parceria com a Folha. A jornalista LUIZA FECAROTTA viajou a convite da Expedição Fartura | comida |
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] | O Dadinho, aquele docinho feito de amendoim, começou a ser vendido pela primeira vez em um formato que não o de cubinho. Seguindo os passos da rival Paçoquita, que dois anos atrás gerou comoção com sua versão cremosa, o produto também ganhou uma versão vendida em potinhos para ser passada no pão. O doce começou a ser distribuído para atacadistas há cerca de duas semanas (preço sugerido de R$ 5,50, por 180 g), e deve chegar gradualmente aos pontos de venda para os consumidores finais nos próximos dias, segundo a Doce Sabor, a atual fabricante –o produto foi lançado há 62 anos, em 1954, com o nome IV Centenário, uma homenagem aos 400 anos de São Paulo, comemorados naquele ano (a embalagem ainda exibe essa marca, ao lado do nome Dadinho, adotado depois). "É um produto de textura bem cremosa, como de requeijão", conta Anderson Siqueira, gerente de marketing da Doce Sabor. Ele explica que a empresa fez investimentos em máquinas para mudar a forma de refino do produto e adaptá-lo à nova versão. Ele nega, entretanto, que a estratégia seja copiar a transformação da Paçoquita. "Não a considero uma concorrente. É como se fosse um irmão", afirma ele. "Apesar de os dois serem feitos de amendoim, a Paçoquita é mais crocante, como a paçoca, e tem um pouco de sal. O Dadinho tem mais cremosidade." O que a Doce Sabor está tentando fazer é aumentar a presença da marca, responsável por 60% de seu faturamento, no mercado. O Dadinho vai virar também biscoito wafer em pacote de 130 g e de 26 g –este, para o lanche da escola– e bombom (um wafer recheado com o doce de amendoim e cobertura de chocolate). | comida |
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] | A obsessão por café atingiu um novo pico: você agora pode saber a altitude na qual os grãos usados para a sua xícara matinal foram cultivados. Estimuladas pela popularidade dos fornecedores de cafés boutiques, a Starbucks e outras redes estão tomando medidas para atrair o crescente número de aficionados por café. Elas estão experimentando diferentes técnicas de torra, além de fornecer mais informações sobre a origem da bebida favorita de seus clientes. Isso inclui de onde vem o café, assim como quando e como ele é tostado. Na cafeteria Augie, na Califórnia, sacos de café mostram a elevação na qual o grão foi cultivado. Altitudes mais altas dizem levar a um sabor mais frutado e complexo. Por enquanto a Starbucks não está oferecendo esse nível de detalhe, mas a companhia tem trabalhado para polir sua reputação. Em 2014, a rede abriu, próximo de sua sede, o Reserve Roastery, um estabelecimento de alta capacidade técnica que torra e serve café. A companhia também está oferecendo mais café de uma única origem, em vez das misturas, com as quais a maioria dos americanos já está familiarizada. E, recentemente, começou a usar um método de extração chamado clover, que ajuda a extrair um sabor ótimo para cada xícara. Para café gelado, a companhia também mudou seu método de extração, em vez de meramente esfriar um café quente. As mudanças da Starbucks vem em um momento que as redes menores já estão usando técnicas como a infusão de nitrogênio para criar um café mais cremoso. "Eu pude experimentar o gosto de um bom café de verdade", disse Bekah Stoneking, enquanto bebia um café com a infusão de nitrogênio na Back Alley Coffee Roasters, na Carolina do Norte. Chris Vigilante, fundador e diretor-executivo da Vigilante Coffee, vem experimentando alguns métodos de torra em um porão há alguns anos e viaja o mundo para selecionar grãos. Sua marca tem vários estabelecimentos em Washington e seu café é distribuído nacionalmente. A popularidade de uma nova onda de redes menores foi o suficiente para que outra grande companhia, a Peet's, adquirisse duas marcas de torra, que ajudaram a gerar interesse por diferentes métodos e origens de grãos. "Nós queremos oferecer experiências diferentes para as pessoas por meio de conceitos variados e capturar nossa fatia desses novos consumidores de 18 a 34 anos, que tem entrado com muita paixão no mundo do café", diz David Burwick, diretor executivo da Peet's. Até a Dunkin' Donuts introduziu um café de torra escura no final de 2014, em um aceno às mudanças nas preferências das pessoas. "Essa é uma tendência que você não pode ignorar se você é uma dessas redes maiores", afirma Duane Stanford, editor da Beverage Digest. | comida |
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] | Cultivar uma horta em casa pode ser mais fácil do que se imagina. Recentemente, na busca por produtos mais saudáveis e livres de agrotóxicos, mais e mais pessoas ao redor do mundo têm decidido plantar suas próprias verduras e hortaliças. Entre elas, celebridades como a primeira dama dos Estados Unidos, Michelle Obama, que fez sua horta ecológica assim que chegou à Casa Branca em 2009, com o objetivo de "promover uma alimentação saudável". Mas as hortas não são apenas uma "moda" de pessoas famosas ou ricas. A Organização das Nações Unidas para Agricultura e Alimentação (FAO, na sigla em inglês) atesta que as hortas domésticas têm representado uma "fonte cada vez mais importante de alimentos e nutrientes para as famílias pobres das zonas urbanas ou periféricas". Além dos benefícios físicos e mentais de se cultivar uma horta, o hábito também pode ajudar as pessoas a terem uma alimentação mais saudável e a gastar menos dinheiro. A BBC preparou uma lista com os vegetais mais fáceis de cultivar em casa elencando os benefícios que eles podem trazer à saúde. TOMATES Essa fruta originária do Equador, Peru e norte do Chile –e que consumimos como hortaliça– é um dos alimentos mais fáceis de plantar e é comum ser o ponto de partida dos iniciantes na aventura de ter uma horta em casa. A diferença de sabor entre um tomate cultivado em casa e um que veio do supermercado pode ser gigantesca. As vantagens do tomate para a saúde estão na quantidade de nutrientes, como potássio e fósforo, assim como antioxidantes e vitaminas A, C e E. De acordo com um estudo recentemente publicado na revista especializada "Medical News Today", é um alimento "funcional" já que, além de sua função nutritiva, beneficia o organismo, prevenindo doenças crônicas, como problemas do coração, diabetes e câncer. Os especialistas aconselham a cultivar a planta em um lugar com bastante luz e a regá-la em pequenas quantidades, algumas vezes por semana. É importante plantar o tomate em solo profundo, porque ele desenvolve raízes grandes e extensas. As folhas mais próximas do solo são mais propensas a contaminações, então devem ser eliminadas regularmente. CENOURAS Outra hortaliça muito fácil de cultivar e com altas propriedades nutritivas é a cenoura. Neste caso, o mais importante é manter a umidade da terra –quando elas começarem a crescer, já é possível diminuir a frequência de regar o solo. As cenouras são ricas em vitamina A, antioxidantes e fibras. Costuma-se dizer que "comer cenoura faz bem para a vista", mas ela também fortalece os dentes e as gengivas, ajuda a combater a constipação e revigora mentes cansadas. A cenoura pode ser plantada ao longo de todo o ano e cresce sem grandes dificuldades. Leia também: Grupos pró-impeachment trocarão megaprotestos por pressão no Congresso PIMENTAS A melhor época para plantar essa hortaliça, que é nativa da América Central e do Sul, é a primavera, porque ela é sensível ao frio. Para cultivá-la, é preciso ter um terreno com bastante sol e plantar as sementes a uma profundidade entre 40 e 50 cm. É preciso também regá-la constantemente. As pimentas verdes, vermelhas e amarelas contêm nutrientes como ácido fólico, tiamina e manganês e são ricos em fibras e em vitaminas C e B6. Também contêm uma sibstância que se chama capsaicina e têm efeitos analgésicos. ESPINAFRE Tanto o espinafre, como a couve e o brócolis são relativamente fáceis de plantar em casa. No caso do espinafre, é possível cultivá-lo em pequenas hortas, separadas por 30 cm de distância entre si ou espalhando as sementes em vasos. Ele prefere os solos ricos e úmidos, ainda que possa crescer em qualquer tipo de solo, com tanto que haja matéria orgânica suficiente. Esse é o tipo de planta que não precisa de muito calor, nem de muito sol. É um alimento muito recomendado por causa de seu alto valor nutritivo, ainda que não se aconselhe o consumo exagerado, porque o ácido oxálico em excesso pode causar cálculo renal. Espinafres têm muitas propriedades nutritivas, mas não podem ser consumidos em excesso No entanto, o espinafre tem muitas propriedades e é um bom anti-inflamatório. Traz benefícios neurológicos e ajuda a regular a pressão arterial e a melhorar o metabolismo. Além de ser muito duradouro –pode sobreviver a todo o inverno para ser consumido na primavera. ERVILHAS As ervilhas concentram muitos minerais –potássio, fósforo, cálcio, ferro– fibras, açúcares, hidratos de carbono e proteínas, além de vitamina A. É um alimento indicado para diabéticos e ajuda a eliminar o colesterol. Leia também: A misteriosa base que a China está construindo na Patagônia argentina Também tem um efeito tranquilizante muito benéfico para o sistema nervoso e para ajudar a dormir bem. Elas podem ser cultivadas principalmente no outono, em um clima fresco, sem muito calor, e se adaptam bem a todos os tipos de solo. Além de seus benefícios alimentares, as ervilhas também melhoram a qualidade do solo, já que elas fixam o nitrogênio na terra. | comida |
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] | Em meio ao bom momento da coquetelaria brasileira, nossa icônica caipirinha parece ter sido esquecida. "Por que não dedicar a ela o mesmo cuidado que se dá a um negroni? Não é só colocar gelo, cachaça e limão que está tudo certo", diz Carolina Corrêa Bastos, conhecida pelas equilibradas caipirinhas do restaurante Jiquitaia, do qual é sócia. Nesse cenário, dois novos bares aparecem em São Paulo para resgatar e erguer versões clássicas do drinque. Carolina se prepara para inaugurar, no andar de cima da casa de receitas brasileiras na Consolação, o Bar do Jiquitaia. Previsto para a segunda quinzena de abril, terá petiscos como coxinha de batata e frango caipira, bolinho de taioba (hortaliça que lembra espinafre e couve), torresmo e... caipirinhas. "É preciso seguir princípios como cortar o limão na hora, usar boa cachaça e pouco açúcar", diz. Na mesma toada, entre maio e julho o bartender Jean Ponce (ex-D.O.M.) abrirá, sobre o 12 Burger & Bistrô, em Pinheiros, seu bar. "Será uma casa de coquetelaria brasileira, valorizando nossos ingredientes, com drinques autorais e espaço reservado à caipirinha, emblemática de São Paulo." Ponce se refere à origem (uma das mais aceitas) do drinque. No começo do século 20, um mix de cachaças da região de Piracicaba, limão, mel e alho, usado para aplacar a gripe espanhola, teria começado a ser difundido pelo porto de Santos com o apelido de "caipirinha". A epidemia acabou, a bebida abandonou o alho, incorporou o açúcar e entrou para a história. "A caipirinha ainda sofre com o desrespeito aos ingredientes", diz Jean Ponce, que critica a falta de padrão na elaboração do drinque. Existe pisco sour com uísque? Mojito com tequila? Não. Então por que há de existir caipirinha com outro destilado? "Existe um dogma de que cachaça é muito forte, mas isso está mudando. Cabe a quem está no balcão um papel didático", afirma Carolina Bastos, que não servirá caipirosca no novo bar. Derivan de Souza, barman há mais de 40 anos, conta que nas décadas de 1970 e 1980 a caipirinha não era pedida em "casas elitizadas". "As pessoas podiam tomar nas suas piscinas, mas não em público, tanto que nem se expunha cachaça nas prateleiras dos bares", lembra. Apesar da aceitação maior, ele ainda serve caipiroscas no Bar Numero. "Ruim é fazer caipirinha com lichia e com kiwi, que não combinam com cachaça." CINCO PASSOS PARA A CAIPIRINHA PERFEITA Confira receitas de caipirinha | comida |
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] | Vestindo trajes brancos e carregando mesas e cestas com comida, mil pessoas se reuniram na noite do último sábado (19) para a primeira edição do evento Dîner en Blanc no Brasil. O jantar, uma espécie de "piquenique chique", foi feito no parque Burle Marx, em São Paulo. "É completamente diferente de tudo que eu já tinha visto", diz a superintendente de recursos humanos Daniela Belisário, 38. Ela, que não conhecia a proposta, foi ao evento a convite da empresa em que trabalha. Criado em 1988 pelo francês Fraçois Pasquier, o Dîner en Blanc é realizado em mais de 60 cidades ao redor do mundo e reúne cerca de 100 mil pessoas todos os anos –sempre com roupas brancas. No Brasil, os ingressos para o evento foram vendidos apenas em pares, ao valor de R$ 420,50. Para participar, era preciso ser convidado por um dos organizadores ou aprovado em uma lista de espera depois de inscrição on-line. Assim como é feito no resto do mundo, o local do piquenique só foi divulgado minutos antes do evento. Para aguardar o anúncio, os convidados se reuniram em sete pontos pré-determinados de São Paulo e seguiram, em ônibus fretados, até o parque. A tradição reza que os participantes devem levar os próprios alimentos, talheres, toalhas, arranjos –e até mesas; na edição brasileira, contudo, as mesas foram fornecidas pela organização. Também havia a opção de comprar cestas preparadas por chefs como o apresentador do "MasterChef" Henrique Fogaça (dos restaurantes Sal e Jamile), o francês Olivier Anquier (L'Entrecôte d'Olivier) e Augusto Pinto (Goa). As encomendas custavam entre R$ 69 e R$ 178, além de uma opção "banquete", que saía por R$ 800. Segundo a organização, foram vendidas 200 cestas. Muitos, no entanto, escolheram trazer os alimentos de casa. Não era difícil ver grupos com croissants, pães, frios, carnes pré-cozidas, patês, castanhas e queijos de vários tipos. Para a sobremesa, bolos. A advogada Fátima Ribeiro, 34, combinou com uma amiga a divisão do cardápio de sua mesa. Encarregada da sobremesa, escolheu pão de damasco, minibolos e docinhos franceses. Alguns investiram em pratos mais elaborados, como o ratatouille na mesa ao lado de Daniela. A superintendente aproveitou para se servir da comida trazida pelo "vizinho" –que, por sinal, acabara de conhecer. "Aqui todo mundo compartilha, conversa, vê o que o colega trouxe." O engenheiro Gustavo Castelan, 27, e a noiva, a advogada Paula Paschotto, 26, estavam na mesa que acabou sendo eleita a mais bonita da festa. Como prêmio, eles ganharam uma máquina de bebidas de uma das marcas patrocinadoras. "Vivemos num mundo em que está todo mundo sempre no celular, um não fala com o outro no elevador. Aqui todo mundo confraterniza, mesmo quem não se conhecia antes", diz Gustavo. "A gente termina de montar a própria mesa e vai ajudar a pessoa ao lado." Para Daniel Pelegrinelli, 35, porém, faltou ao jantar "um pouco de alma". "Está um meio-termo entre um piquenique e uma festa chique. Não sei se eu voltaria no ano que vem", diz. MUDANÇA NO PARQUE A ideia é que o jantar sempre aconteça em um espaço público. Mas, como o local não é divulgado com antecedência, muitos frequentadores do parque olhavam espantados para a caravana de branco que chegava de repente. Ana Paula Lima, 30, tinha ido ao local com uma fotógrafa para produzir seu álbum de gravidez. "Estava sonhando com esse gramado verde nas fotos, mas não foi dessa vez", disse a professora, ao ver o parque ser invadido pelas mesas e atrapalhar as fotografias. Entrando no clima, Ana aproveitou para tirar algumas fotos com o jantar ao fundo. "Parece um daqueles episódios de 'Gossip Girl'", aponta, lembrando da série de TV norte-americana. Os convidados começaram a chegar pouco antes das 18h, e o parque funcionou normalmente até 19h. A organização do Dîner en Blanc paga pelo aluguel do espaço, mas os valores não foram divulgados. Violão nas costas, o músico Felipe Garibaldi, 28, foi ao Burle Marx para tocar, como costuma fazer. Mas decidiu ir embora quando o evento começou. "Hoje eu queria um pouco de silêncio, mas não deu." A playlist, que começou com calma música francesa, também teve jazz ao vivo e, logo no início do baile, às 21h, migrou para samba e música eletrônica internacional. Ao som tipicamente paulistano de Thobias, da escola de samba Vai-Vai –que se apresentou no evento com passistas–, a designer Gina Elimelek, 55, contou que já conhecia os eventos no exterior e sempre teve vontade de participar de algo do tipo por aqui. "Foi uma pausa numa semana em que estávamos precisando de descanso", conta, referindo-se aos atribulados acontecimentos políticos nos últimos dias. "Nem parece que estamos no Brasil." GUARDE SEU LIXO Outro conceito diferente para muitos era o fato de os convidados serem responsáveis por montar suas mesas e retirar o lixo ao fim do evento. Às 23h, o alto-falante orientava os presentes a iniciar a desmontagem. Embora todos tenham começado a se movimentar para retirar seus pertences, faxineiras também estavam no local. "Tomara que [a obrigação de retirar seu próprio lixo] funcione mesmo", brincou uma das responsáveis pela limpeza, que não quis se identificar. "Às vezes as pessoas ainda querem ser servidas, não entenderam muito bem esse conceito", afirma Amanda Costa, 30, vendedora e voluntária. Ela conheceu o Dîner en Blanc em 2013, enquanto fazia intercâmbio em Paris. "Eu estava na torre Eiffel um dia, vi as pessoas chegando e me juntei ao grupo." Comparando o evento parisiense com o brasileiro, a vendedora avalia que talvez a edição francesa seja um pouco mais democrática. "Eu, por exemplo, estava de calça colorida, mas todos me receberam muito bem. Já aqui, se chegasse alguém 'estranho', não sei muito bem como seria o tratamento." No Dîner en Blanc paulista, cada grupo tinha um líder voluntário, responsável por afastar possíveis penetras. Mas como o evento ainda é pouco conhecido no Brasil e a localização é secreta, não houve ocorrências do tipo. Para o empresário Erico Theodorovitz, o Dîner en Blanc traz uma atmosfera pouco comum. "Vi uma senhora muito elegante carregando um saquinho de padaria", conta. "Pessoas acostumadas a mandar de repente estão em fila, obedecendo a ordens. Isso é fantástico." Contudo, ele faz uma ressalva para a exclusividade do evento. "Nós ainda somos uma elite. Todos deveriam poder participar disso, deveria ter uma edição aberta na Paulista em algum domingo." | comida |
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] | A cafeteria Isso é Café, que fica no Mirante 9 de Julho, realizará neste domingo (20) um brunch em parceria com o Canastra Food Truck. Os pratos, comandados pelo chef do food truck Pedro Savastano, terão como estrela os queijos da serra da Canastra. Será servido um tostex no pão de queijo da canastra com queijo e tomate confit e uma tapioca com mussarela, carne seca e geleia de fruta (ambos por R$ 18). O menu inclui ainda ovos mexidos (com bacon, pão italiano e mel), salada (com folhas verdes, tomate cereja, frango e lascas de queijo Canastra bem curado com chutney de manga e torrada) –cada um por R$ 28– e um bolinho mineiro feito com mandioca, coco e um queijo chamado de mané pelado, por R$ 2. Há opção de harmonizar cada receita com um café determinado, o que acrescenta R$ 4 ao preço dos pratos. Os ovos mexidos, por exemplo, podem vir com cappuccino e a tapioca, com o café coado do dia. Alguns dos ingredientes usados, como o mel e a muçarela, vem da FAF (Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza), que produz café no interior de São Paulo. A Isso é Café é a primeira cafeteria da marca. O brunch começa às 10h e vai até às 17h. A partir das 15h, uma banda tocará jazz ao vivo. * BRUNCH NO MIRANTE Quando domingo, 20 de março, das 10h às 17h Onde Mirante 9 de Julho; r. Carlos Comenale, s/n Quanto receitas por R$ 2, R$ 18, R$ 22 e R$ 32 Mais: (11) 3111-6342 | comida |
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] | Com suas cadeiras de couro, suas mesas de cristal e seus preços de Londres, The Clink parece ser um restaurante qualquer. Mas os talheres são de plástico, as facas de cozinha estão guardadas a chaves e da janela se vê uma cerca de arame. Localizado na prisão de Brixton, no sul de Londres, The Clink é aberto ao público, mas está atrás de três portões de segurança, dentro de um pátio rodeado por altas cercas, e seu corpo de funcionários é composto por presos que diariamente atendem até 120 comensais. "A prisão é a pior experiência da minha vida. Isso me salvou, me manteve são", disse Matt, que está há nove meses trabalhando na cozinha. Quando estava em liberdade, o detento de 45 anos tinha um negócio de construção. No restaurante, prepara pratos como um peito de pato envolto em gergelim com acelga, vendido por um valor equivalente a R$ 76. Matt é um dos seis alunos de um "masterclass" do chef Gilles Quillot, o cozinheiro da embaixada francesa em Londres. "Ficava um pouco nervoso em vir à cadeia, como podem imaginar", disse Quillot, enquanto ensinava a um de seus pupilos como preparar aspargos brancos. "Mas tenho que dizer que os rapazes têm sido fantásticos... Já ofereci trabalho a um ou dois." A visita de Quillot faz parte do programa "Gout de France" (Sabor da França) realizado na semana que vem para celebrar a cozinha francesa em todo o mundo. "Ser um bom cozinheiro é fácil: trata-se de desfrutar dando algo aos outros", disse à AFP. "Por isso a cozinha é uma boa ideia para a reabilitação." The Clink é um dos quatro restaurantes administrados por uma organização sem fins lucrativos que se dedica a gerar emprego a presos, para que possam começar uma nova vida ao sair. Mas para muitos deles, o programa serve para sobreviver em seu tempo de cárcere. TALHERES DE PLÁSTICO Construída em 1819, Brixton é uma das prisões mais antigas do país, e entre seus célebres "hóspedes" estiveram Mick Jagger, que passou uma temporada por lá, em 1967, por envolvimento com drogas, e os gêmeos Kray, os gangsteres mais famosos de Londres. O diretor da prisão, Giles Mason, diz que o restaurante, aberto em 2014, é "realmente uma parte boa do que fazemos em Brixton", e insiste que não há nenhum risco para a segurança dos clientes. As mesas têm talheres de plástico escuro, e as facas da cozinha são controladas. Não há álcool e clientes deixam celulares e computadores do lado de fora. "Aqui você não se sente em uma prisão", disse Mohammed, um garçom de 23 anos. Outro garçom, Jamie, já esteve em 17 prisões na última década e afirma que servir o público reforçou sua confiança: "Me dei uma segunda oportunidade". Quillot elogiou a bem equipada cozinha, mas, por outro lado, a antiga prisão tem condições diferentes, muito piores. "É horrível", diz Lancelot, enquanto faz arancini, os bolinhos de arroz típicos da cozinha siciliana. "Por isso eu gosto de estar aqui, escapo da hostilidade [da prisão]." Antes de ser preso, o homem de 59 anos tinha seu próprio restaurante, um estabelecimento de comida entregue a domicílio, que servia receitas das Índias Ocidentais. O curry de cabra era sua especialidade –diz ele que fica com água na boca ao recordar, e olha para Quillot empratando vieiras com favas e chouriço. Os pupilos se dispõem a provar a receita, mas não Lancelot, que franze a testa. "Isso não é para mim", se justifica. | comida |
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] | Todos os anos, um tradicional concurso escolhe a melhor baguete de Paris. O "Grand Prix de la Baguette de la Ville de Paris" acontece nesta quinta-feira (17), na capital francesa. No concurso, centenas de padeiros competem pelo reconhecimento na produção de um dos ícones da gastronomia francesa. As baguetes são registradas e embaladas anonimamente, e depois recebem um número de identificação. Cada uma delas é pesada e medida para assegurar que não viole as regras –os filões devem medir entre 55 e 70 cm, e pesar de 250 a 300 g. O vencedor também ganha o direito de fornecer baguetes para o presidente da França em exercício, que neste ano é François Hollande. Em 2015, o vencedor da competição foi Ridha Khadher, 42, padeiro tunisiano naturalizado. Veja imagens do concurso na galeria acima. | comida |
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] | Nos anos 1980, plena madrugada, para onde você iria tomar um último trago se quisesse estar em um ambiente cosmopolita? Você, não sei; mas eu costumava ir para um lobby de hotel: do Maksoud Plaza, inaugurado em 1979, com atendimento 24 horas por dia e uma arquitetura de tirar o fôlego. Afundado nas poltronas relaxantes, com a última taça de Cognac e um charuto nas mãos, bastava inclinar a cabeça para avistar a gigantesca escultura de Yutaka Toyota pendendo daquele fosso invertido de concreto; as formas de Maria Bonomi entalhadas nas paredes; e imaginar a vertigem dos elevadores panorâmicos –tudo cenário para inovações na gastronomia (e até no show-business) que o hotel trazia para a cidade. E se você conhecesse alguém da produção musical do hotel, poderia se enturmar à mesa dos jantares tardios dos artistas de fora, que aconteciam ali mesmo no lobby, no restaurante Brasserie Bela Vista, aberto 24 horas. Ou se fosse amigo de amigos de Caetano Veloso, notívago inveterado, engrossaria, no mesmo lugar, a fila de apóstolos da ceia tardia do baiano após seus shows (o único à mesa sempre sem bebida alcoólica, ainda assim sempre com fôlego para pontificar sobre tudo, em geral com teorias tão curiosas quanto originais). Mas o Maksoud não era só madrugada. E suas noites fizeram mais do que hospedar, no 150 Night Club, apresentações de ícones como Frank Sinatra, Alberta Hunter, Bobby Short, num espaço pequeno o suficiente para que, por exemplo, Buddy Guy pudesse descer do palco e, sem interromper seu solo de guitarra, viesse mexer com a garota a meu lado. O outro lado do Maksoud era composto de comida e bebida da melhor qualidade. Saindo do lobby, descendo as escadas rolantes, já o final da tarde atraia os bebedores sérios para o classudo Trianon Piano Bar: num espaço pequeno à meia-luz, lembro de ouvir (de preferência acompanhado) o jazz e a bossa-nova interpretados por músicos como os irmãos Peixoto, irmãos de Cauby. Para beber? Uísques escoceses (não paraguaios) e coquetéis clássicos (do dry martini à indispensável caipirinha) preparados com precisão e elegância por bartenders impolutamente engravatados (como o Rodrigues, cujos gestos, entre sorrisos matreiros de dentes alvos na moldura negra do rosto, não cansei de admirar). O público? Hóspedes que ali mesmo viviam o lado elegante da cidade; empresários que se encontravam para tomar seu scotch; e bem, com o passar do tempo, também clientes mais velhos com jovens acompanhantes de ocasião. Os coquetéis eram para antes ou depois de comer: e era também no subsolo (para quem entrava pelo lobby) que se comia muito bem. Dos quatro restaurantes do hotel (como o raro escandinavo Vikings, onde a burguesia paulista aprendeu o que era o smorgasbord, mesa onde brilhavam peixes marinados e defumados), o mais vistoso era o La Cuisine du Soleil. Vetusto mas confortável, este tinha a consultoria do chef Roger Vergé (1930-2015), que em seu Moulin de Mougins, no sul da França, era um dos ícones da inovadora nouvelle cuisine. Para o Brasil Vergé enviou o jovem chef Hubert Keller –que pouco depois foi para São Francisco, onde abriria o Fleur de Lys. Para nós brasileiros a nouvelle cuisine, ainda pouco firmada mesmo na França, era assunto do momento; e era com reverência que víamos aquele francês se virando com produtos brasileiros para tentar oferecer pratos franceses mais leves que o habitual. Peixes com caldos leves e translúcidos, frutas tropicais compondo purês que acompanhavam carnes, legumes cozidos al dente, tudo nos encantava, e valia a economia feita para gastar ali –embora nunca fosse suficiente, no meu caso, para arcar com os vinhos fantásticos que a carta oferecia. Por muito tempo o restaurante virou ponto de encontro das então nascentes confrarias gastronômicas, que ali se reuniam para degustar vinhos com boa companhia no prato. As lembranças desta época vêm agora à mente quando a atual gestão do hotel empreende mudanças para revitalizar seus serviços. Verdade que é difícil traçar paralelos entre a leve e luminosa cozinha inspirada por Vergé, num ambiente exclusivo, e o novo e agora único restaurante do hotel –o 150 Maksoud, que funciona escancarado no lobby onde foi o Brasserie Belavista. E o que dizer do novo bar do Maksoud –o Frank? Também funcionando no lobby, ele parece não ter relação alguma com o passado, se considerarmos a indumentária (tatuagens inclusive) da atual equipe, e o amontoado jovial de clientes dispostos a esperar por horas para sentar. Mas como testemunha etílica dos dois momentos, posso atestar que há também muito em comum: com receitas criativas e serviço diferente supervisionado pelo talentoso barman Spencer Jr., o Frank leva a bebida tão a sério quanto o velho Trianon. O Maksoud tenta, positivamente, reocupar um lugar que já teve na cidade. Para isso renova seu repertório, que vinha em vertical decadência. Não chega perto dos tempos áureos; mas ao mesmo tempo investe numa pegada mais jovem e descontraída. Mesmo um velho frequentador torcerá a favor de uma virada que entrega à cidade novas opções de gastronomia e lazer. * O QUE TEM LÁ Veja algumas atrações funcionando do Maksound PANAM CLUB No 22º andar do edifício, a casa noturna de Facundo Guerra, aberta em janeiro de 2015, prioriza a música eletrônica e tem vista ampla para a cidade FRANK BAR O pequenino bar no lobby, comandado por Spencer Amereno Jr., tem drinques elaborados com esmero, clássicos e autorais, com ingredientes produzidos na casa - VEM AÍ Veja espaços que o hotel planeja inaugurar CINEMA Deve começar a funcionar no final do ano, no subsolo, o Cinema Paradiso, de 460 lugares, fruto de parceria entre Facundo Guerra e a MK2, rede francesa de cinema CAFÉ Ainda sem data certa, o Planta será um espaço, no estacionamento aberto, com receitas saudáveis e floricultura | comida |
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] | A chef Tatiana Cardoso, do Moinho de Pedra, dará um curso sobre culinária vegetariana que começa no dia 7 de abril, na Nutrição e Ação, em São Paulo. Serão dez aulas sobre diferentes ingredientes e pratos, como arroz integral, tortas salgadas, sobremesas, sopas e massas naturais. O primeiro encontro fará um panorama geral sobre a culinária natural. As aulas, que vão dos dias 7 de abril a 27 de junho, serão realizadas sempre das 19h às 22h no Espaço Gourmet, no bairro Jardim Paulista. O curso sai por R$ 3.500 e pode ser pago em quatro vezes de R$ 875. Inscrições devem ser feitas pelo telefone (11) 3061-5214 ou pelo e-mail atendimento@nutricaoeacao.com.br. * Aulas de culinária vegetariana com Tatiana Cardoso Quando de 7/4 a 27/6 Onde Espaço Gourmet, al. Casa Branca 652, cj. 12, Jardim Paulista Quanto R$ 3.500 (valor do pacote de dez aulas) Mais (11) 3061-5214; atendimento@nutricaoeacao.com.br. | comida |
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] | Em maio, São Paulo reunirá 14 chefs de diferentes cidades do Brasil e do mundo, para preparar um jantar em homenagem à cozinha nordestina sertaneja e a Zé de Almeida, fundador do restaurante Mocotó e pai do chef Rodrigo Oliveira. O evento, chamado de Walk With Us São Paulo, é o segundo de uma série de quatro jantares pelo mundo, organizados pelo Gelinaz –um coletivo de chefs criado pelo jornalista italiano Andrea Petrini. O primeiro jantar foi realizado em Londres, em fevereiro. Funciona assim: o chef Rodrigo Oliveira, filho de Zé de Almeida, apresentará um menu com quatro entradas, um prato principal e sobremesa, usando paçoca, sarapatel, carne-de-sol com macaxeira e torresmo. Os outros chefs serão divididos em três grupos e, a partir desse menu, vão criar mais pratos usando os mesmos ingredientes. As receitas vão ser servidas a 90 comensais. Entre os participantes do evento estão os chefs brasileiros Alex Atala (D.O.M.), Thiago Castanho (Remanso do Bosque), Helena Rizzo e Daniel Redondo (Maní), Jefferson Rueda (A Casa do Porco), Thomas Troisgrois (Olympe), Manu Buffara (Manu) e Alberto Landgraf. Já os estrangeiros são Virgilio Martinez (Central) e Mitsuharu Tsumura (Maido) –ambos em Lima, no Peru–, Inaki Aizptarte (Le Chateaubriand, em Paris), Rodolfo Guzman (Boragó, em Santiago) e Leonardo Pereira (Areias do Seixo, em Portugal). Nesta sexta-feira (11) começam as vendas do segundo lote de ingressos. Serão disponibilizados 30 convites, cada um por R$ 650, no site Foodpass –o primeiro lote foi vendido por R$ 590 nesta quinta-feira (10). O terceiro lote terá 29 ingressos a R$ 720 cada um e começa a ser vendido no sábado (12). O jantar será realizado no dia 1º de maio, um domingo, às 20h, no restaurante Dalva e Dito. * WALK WITH US SÃO PAULO Quando 1º de maio, às 20h Onde Dalva e Dito, r. Padre João Manuel, 1.115, Jardins Quanto 2º lote: R$ 650; 3º lote: R$ 720 Mais foodpass.com.br/gelinaz-walk-with-us-01-05.html | comida |
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] | A Netflix anunciou novos episódios da série documental "Chef's Table", que mostra a vida e o trabalho de renomados chefs da gastronomia mundial. Serão mais duas temporadas, uma ainda neste ano e outra em 2017 –também neste ano, um especial de quatro episódios será dedicado apenas a chefs franceses. Dirigido por David Gelb, o programa estreou no serviço de streaming no ano passado. Cada capítulo é dedicado a um profissional, como um mini-documentário, e a proposta é contar inspirações, desafios, sucessos e fracassos dos chefs, além da história de seus restaurantes e pratos mais conhecidos. Na segunda temporada, que começa em 27 de maio, o brasileiro Alex Atala, do D.O.M., é tema de um dos episódios. "Nós fomos para a selva com o Atala, que eu acredito ser um dos homens mais interessantes do mundo", disse David Gelb ao Eater. O diretor conta que o chef cozinhou uma cobra que caçou durante as filmagens. "Comer comida indígena no meio da Amazônia não é o mesmo que sentar em uma mesa no salão do L'Arpege." Os outros cinco episódios vão apresentar histórias de Ana Ros, do Hia Franki (Eslovênia), Dominique Crenn, do Atelier Crenn (Estados Unidos), Enrique Olvera, do Pujol (México), Gagan Anand, do Gaggan (Tailândia) e Grant Achatz, do Alinea, Next e The Aviary (Estados Unidos). "Uma das coisas mais difíceis é escolher os chefs", afirmou Gelb ao site. Em três temporadas, não há chefs espanhóis. "Começamos com a França", ele disse. Para o diretor –que também esteve à frente do filme "O Sushi dos Sonhos de Jiro" (2011)–, o "Chef's Table" apresenta um novo formato de programa. As gravações de cada episódio duram duas semanas, período em que a rotina dos chefs é acompanhada intensamente. "É realmente um show sobre pessoas. Nós não damos explicações sobre como cozinhar. É um filme psicológico, baseado nos personagens", disse. "Eu acredito que os chefs podem contar suas próprias histórias." | comida |
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] | Usando uma lógica "pollyanna" para tempos de crise, vai ser mais fácil manter a dieta nesta Páscoa: na média, os ovos estão menores. De acordo com o IPCA, o índice oficial de inflação, o preço de barras e bombons de chocolate subiu 13,2% nos últimos 12 meses. Com isso, a estratégia da indústria foi reduzir o tamanho das guloseimas. Em 2015, esses produtos tinham em média 196 g, peso que caiu cerca de 5% neste ano, segundo estimativa da Abicab (associação do setor de chocolates). "A ideia é que, apesar da situação econômica do país, o consumidor não deixe de comprar na Páscoa", afirma Ubiracy Fonseca, vice-presidente da instituição. Já que o orçamento anda limitado, é bom saber identificar os produto de qualidade. O ideal é evitar ovos com muitos compostos impronunciáveis e atentar para a ordem em que cada ingrediente é apresentado. A sequência é decrescente, formada do item com maior concentração até aquele em menor quantidade. "Para fazer um bom chocolate, você só precisa de três ingredientes: cacau, manteiga obtida do fruto e açúcar", afirma Carolina Iwai, chef pâtissier da Casa Sabor Amma. No rótulo do chocolate chamado de "artesanal" ou "gourmet", uma informação não pode faltar: a porcentagem de cacau. Nos produtos de escala industrial, esse dado raramente é especificado. Para padrões internacionais, considera-se chocolate ao leite aquele que apresenta, em média, 35% de sólidos de cacau. Para ajudá-lo na escolha, a Folha convidou um time de três especialistas para avaliar os ovos disponíveis no mercado, em uma degustação às cegas (veja abaixo). Levando em conta a preferência do brasileiro por chocolate ao leite, já indicada em pesquisas, foram selecionados sete produtos desse tipo. A lista inclui os vendidos em supermercados, outros produzidos por marcas de abrangência nacional e um artesanal –todos com menos de 250 gramas, a versão que mais poderá ser vista nos corredores dos supermercados. * OS SETE OVINHOS Especialistas dão notas para produtos do mercado Ovo Leite Power 40,7% Cacau, da Renata Arassiro NOTA 8,3 "No visual, percebe-se a cor mais escura e a boa espessura. É gostoso na boca, tem açúcar na medida" (Carolina Iwai) PREÇO POR GRAMA R$ 0,35 QUANTO R$ 80 (230 g) ONDE Renata Arassiro - r. Pascal, 1.195, Campo Belo; tel. (11) 5092-4977 - Ovo Milka Chocolate ao Leite, da Lacta "Aparência uniforme, certo brilho. A cor e o aroma remetem ao leite. Na boca, tem notas de caramelo" (Cintia Sanches Lima) NOTA 7 PREÇO POR GRAMA R$ 0,25 PREÇO sugerido R$ 25 (100 g) ONDE Pão de Açúcar (paodeacucar.com.br) - Ovo Truffon Tradicional, da Cacau Show NOTA 6,3 "Espessura fina e uniforme, bem feito. Na boca, lembra frutas secas, mas sobra açúcar" (Arnor Porto) PREÇO POR GRAMA R$ 0,12 PREÇO R$ 24,90 (200 g) ONDE Cacau Show (572 lojas em SP); cacaushow.com.br - Top Cau Class Chocolate ao Leite, da Top Cau NOTA 4,6 "Insosso, gorduroso e muito doce" (Cintia Sanches Lima) PREÇO POR GRAMA R$ 0,08 PREÇO SUGERIDO R$ 13 (160 g) ONDE Top Cau - r. Coronel Emídio Piedade, 378, Pari; tel. (11) 2172-3500, e supermercados - Classic ao Leite, da Nestlé NOTA 3,3 "Além de muito doce, deixa a boca encapada de gordura" (Carolina Iwai) PREÇO POR GRAMA R$ 0,16 PREÇO SUGERIDO R$ 32 (200 g) ONDE Americanas (americanas.com.br) - Gold Bunny, da Lindt NOTA 3,3 "Acabamento irregular com lado mais espesso que o outro. Na boca, senti muita essência, me lembrou remédio" (Arnor Porto) PREÇO POR GRAMA R$ 0,30 PREÇO R$ 37,90 (125 g) ONDE Shopping Pátio Higienópolis - av. Higienópolis, 618, tel. (11) 3661-2295) + 10 endereços em SP - Ovo ao leite, da Kopenhagen NOTA 2,5 "Excesso de químicos e gordura hidrogenada. Típico produto que não poderia ser chamado de chocolate" (Cintia Sanches Lima) PREÇO POR GRAMA R$ 0,26 PREÇO R$ 39,10 (150 g) ONDE Na Kopenhagen (90 lojas em SP); kopenhagen.com.br Participaram da degustação: a chocolatier Cintia Sanches Lima e os chefs pâtissier Arnor Porto (Sweet Café) e Carolina Iwai (Casa Sabor Amma) | comida |
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] | No final de 2015, violentas tempestades de inverno atingiram o norte da Inglaterra, provocando prejuízos calculados em mais de R$ 20 bilhões e deixando centenas de pessoas desabrigadas –felizmente, o número de mortes não chegou a dois dígitos. A catástrofe, porém, também causou transtornos inesperados: entre as muitas casas e edifícios atingidos estavam as instalações da McVitie's, o principal fabricante de biscoitos Reino Unido –um produto que os britânicos consomem à razão de 34 mil toneladas por mês, especialmente como acompanhamento para uma xícara de chá. Os fornos da fábrica, por exemplo, foram submersos. Leia também: #ViajoSozinha: Como a morte de duas turistas argentinas levou a debate sobre assédio As instalações da McVitie's, na cidade de Carlisle, perto da fronteira com a Escócia, ainda estão passando por reparos e os biscoitos há meses vem rareando nas prateleiras dos supermercados. Recentemente, a empresa que controla a McVitie's (United Biscuits), anunciou que março marcará o retorno dos "ginger nuts" , populares biscoitos doces de gengibre. Mas um porta-voz da empresa disse à BBC que a fábrica só conseguirá voltar a algo próximo da produção normal no final de abril. "Gostaríamos de pedir desculpas aos consumidores que estão passando por dificuldades para encontrar nossos produtos. Estamos trabalhando duro para normalizar a produção o mais rápido possível", disse a empresa em um comunicado. No mês passado, a United Biscuits até publicou anúncios em jornais explicando a extensão do problema. Tentou fazer piada, ligando a inundação ao hábito de os britânicos mergulharem biscoitos no chá. Leia também: 'Rezei para meu filho morrer': Mãe de atirador de Columbine relembra tragédia Pouca gente riu e alguns supermercados temem não contar com estoques suficientes para aguardar o retorno da produção. Nas mídias sociais, britânicos compartilharam fotos de prateleiras vazias e dicas de onde encontrar biscoitos. Houve até um intenso debate sobre o problema ético das chamadas "compras de pânico", em que consumidores levam quantidades de um produto maiores que o normal como forma de se prevenir de uma escassez - algo normalmente visto em supermercados americanos antes de furacões ou nevascas. Em 2005, a fábrica também foi inundada e precisou pedir ajuda financeira ao governo britânico para voltar a operar. | comida |
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] | Comer ao ar livre e cercado de amigos é uma prática comum em vários lugares do mundo. Mas para elevar o conceito de piquenique, o francês François Pasquier criou, em 1988, o Diner en Blanc (jantar de branco), que terá neste ano sua primeira edição em São Paulo. "Não é um evento de rua comum: ele tem alguns valores", explica Fernando Elimelek, coanfitrião em São Paulo. A proposta é que os convidados, todos elegantemente vestidos de branco, tenham espaço para desfrutar de alta gastronomia ao ar livre. Realizado anualmente, o evento tem como cenário espaços públicos de grandes cidades como Paris, Nova York e San Diego, e conta com mais de 100 mil entusiastas ao redor do mundo, segundo a organização. A refeição é feita em mesas portáteis. Cabe aos convidados montar e desmontar as mesas, assim como recolher o lixo produzido. "As pessoas acham que, porque estão pagando, tem de ser servidas. Tentamos mostrar uma visão diferente", afirma Tami Meza, também coanfitriã. Para Tami, é justamente o envolvimento dos convidados que torna o Diner en Blanc especial. "É um evento em que você realmente participa, não é um show em que a pessoa vai lá e assiste", explica. "A participação é a mesma para todos, seja organizador, voluntário ou convidado." EXCLUSIVIDADE Cada convidado pode optar por levar sua própria comida ou adquirir com a organização, antecipadamente, cestas de piquenique assinadas por chefs como o apresentador do "MasterChef" Henrique Fogaça (do restaurante Sal Gastronomia), Olivier Anquier (L'entrecôte) e Augusto Pinto (do Goa). Para quem prefere comprar a refeição pronta, é possível compor a própria cesta com itens como queijos Cruzília, chocolates Ferrero Rocher, champagne Chandon, vinhos Terrazas e bolos da Casa Suíça. Outra particularidade é que o local só é divulgado minutos antes do início do evento. Os convidados irão se reunir em sete pontos espalhados pela capital, e de lá seguirão para o local secreto em um transporte fretado. O par de ingressos custa R$ 420,50 e, assim como acontece no exterior, a participação só funciona mediante convite. De acordo com os organizadores, o objetivo é justamente unir amigos no mesmo ambiente. "Nós começamos a montar uma rede, esses amigos chamam os amigos, e esses últimos começam a chamar outros", diz Tami. Interessados também podem se inscrever em uma lista de espera no site do Diner en Blanc São Paulo. A organização revelou que convites serão enviados a todos inscritos nesta segunda-feira (7), mas ressalta que isso não é garantia de vaga no evento e que por isso orienta que, após o recebimento da invitação, o ingresso seja adquirido o mais rápido possível. "Por ser a primeira edição, a gente quer que o máximo de pessoas interessadas consiga participar", afirma Tami. * SERVIÇO Diner en Blanc em São Paulo QUANDO 19/3 ONDE local divulgado no dia do evento QUANTO R$ 420,50 (valor dá direito a um par de ingressos, mediante convite). Inscrição para lista de espera no site do Diner en Blanc São aulo | comida |
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] | As companhias que fornecem kits-refeição vêm crescendo explosivamente nos últimos quatro anos, enviando pacotes de carne crua, frutos do mar, legumes e verduras frescos e outros ingredientes para os lares urbanos de pessoas ocupadas que não têm tempo para o supermercado mas ainda assim gostam de cozinhar em casa. Agora, elas desejam que ainda mais pessoas experimentem seus serviços. Mas essas empresas enfrentam diversos desafios ao seu crescimento. Precisam reter os clientes que já têm, descobrir como transportar comida crua para áreas mais distantes das cidades e continuar a atrair capital de investidores cada vez mais cautelosos com seu dinheiro. O setor está crescendo rapidamente nos Estados Unidos, depois de conquistar popularidade inicialmente na Europa, e a concorrência está esquentando, com novos competidores entrando na parada. Por causa disso, as companhias que fornecem kits de refeição vêm fazendo tudo que podem para se destacar. A Blue Apron começou no ano passado a enviar vinho compatível com os pratos que fornece. A HelloFresh desde novembro está veiculando comerciais estrelados pelo chef televisivo Jamie Oliver. A Gobble promete que suas refeições podem ser cozinhadas com apenas uma panela e em 15 minutos. E a Purple Carrot, que entrega refeições vegan, contratou Mark Bittman, autor de livros de culinária, para desenvolver receitas como crepes recheados com cebola e fritas de tofu. Até mesmo Martha Stewart quer entrar nesse segmento. O presidente-executivo da Sequential Brands, empresa que adquiriu a Martha Stewart Living no ano passado, declarou em dezembro que a companhia está estudando lançar kits-refeição criados pela magnata dos cuidados com a casa, e parecidos com "o modelo da Blue Apron". Os kits refeição são entregues nas casas dos compradores e os ingredientes crus vêm em caixas de papelão isoladas. Os compradores os cozinham seguindo receitas passo a passo que acompanham os kits. Cada kit traz comida suficiente para diversas refeições, com preço médio de US$ 10 cada. Os assinantes recebem uma nova caixa a cada semana. Pessoas de todo o mundo gastaram US$ 1,5 bilhão na compra desses kits no ano passado, e menos de metade das vendas foram realizadas nos Estados Unidos, de acordo com o grupo de pesquisa Technomic. Foi a primeira vez que a companhia aferiu os gastos com kits refeição. O mercado dos Estados Unidos deve crescer mais rápido que o de qualquer outro país, nesse segmento, pelos próximos cinco anos, e atingirá até US$ 6 bilhões em 2020, de acordo com a Technomic. "Não sabemos como o mercado será dentro de cinco anos, mas certamente algumas empresas sairão vencedoras e outras não sobreviverão", diz Erik Thoresen, um dos sócios da Technomic. Reter clientes pode se provar especialmente desafiador. Saltar de fornecedor em fornecedor de kits-refeição é tentador, já que muitos deles oferecem refeições gratuitas ou pesados descontos para as caixas adquiridas por novos assinantes, diz Thoresen. Para ajudar a capitalizar sua expansão, as empresas também dependem de dinheiro de investidores, e o influxo já mostrou sinais de redução. O setor de capital para empreendimentos arrecadou US$ 28,2 bilhões junto aos seus clientes no ano passado para investir em startups de todos os setores, 9,5% abaixo do valor arrecadado no ano anterior, de acordo com a Associação Nacional de Capital para Empreendimentos norte-americana. E entregar comida crua não é fácil, além disso. No momento, muitos dos clientes vivem em áreas urbanas, onde é mais fácil realizar as entregas das caixas, diz Darren Seifer, analista dos setores de alimentos e bebidas no NPD Group. Mas a expansão rumo a áreas mais suburbanas pode ser complicada, porque nelas as casas ficam mais dispersas, ele diz. "Não acredito que veremos adoção generalizada dos kits de comida para preparo em casa", diz Seifer. Keith e Sharon Robinson, de Evanston, Illinois, começaram a comprar kits de refeição da Blue Apron e Plated dois anos atrás, depois de descobrir descontos para essas empresas nos sites de ofertas Groupon e Gilt City. Os kits permitem que o casal, um vice-diretor de escola e uma pediatra, cozinhe refeições saudáveis para a família (eles têm duas filhas) sem precisar fazer compras de mantimentos. "A comida literalmente chega à nossa porta", diz Keith Robinson. "Está tudo lá: saquinhos de temperos e especiarias, carne, todos os legumes". Alguns dos fornecedores de kits-refeição reformularam seus negócios a fim de atrair a atenção de potenciais clientes e do setor de capital para empreendimentos. A Gobble, sediada em San Francisco, surgiu em 2010 fazendo entregas de refeições já cozidas, que precisavam apenas ser aquecidas em um micro-ondas. Mas o crescimento se desacelerou e, depois de conversar com clientes, Ooshma Garg, fundadora e presidente-executiva da empresa, percebeu que na verdade as pessoas queriam cozinhar. "Elas se sentiam culpadas por alimentar os filhos com comida requentada no micro-ondas", ela diz. Assim, Garg desenvolveu um conceito diferente, o de entrega de ingredientes crus que os clientes podem converter em refeição com apenas uma panela e em 15 minutos. Os funcionários da empresa fatiam e picam os legumes, temperam as carnes e preparam os molhos nas cozinhas da Gobble, antes de enviá-los aos compradores. A mudança fez sucesso junto aos clientes, e resultou em 2.000% de aumento no número de clientes da companhia em um ano. Os investidores do Vale do Silício também gostaram do novo conceito, capitalizando a Gobble em mais de US$ 11 milhões para que ela pudesse contratar mais pessoal e entregar refeições em mais cidades dos Estados Unidos. A Purple Carrot, de Nova York, enquanto isso, no ano passado contratou Bittman, cujos livros e artigos de culinária se concentram em promover o consumo de alimentos de base vegetal por parte do dia. A Purple Carrot, fundada em 2014, entregou 100 mil refeições em seu primeiro ano. Isso é pouco se comparado à Blue Apron e Hello Fresh, que dizem embarcar milhões de refeições por mês. Mas a Purple Carrot tem grandes planos para Bittman, que se tornou sócio da empresa, e o serviço se expandiu à costa oeste dos Estados Unidos. Outros kits vão além do jantar, e enviam ingredientes para o preparo de cupcakes e vitaminas. A Foodstirs, que tem entre seus proprietários a atriz Sarah Michelle Gellar, de "Buffy, a Caçadora de Vampiros", envia kits mensais com ingredientes e instrumentos para o preparo de bolos de chocolate e baunilha, e outras guloseimas. E para quem prefere refeições líquidas, a Green Blender, de Nova York, envia caixas de frutas, legumes, sementes de chia, amêndoas e outros ingredientes, já cortados, que podem ser despejados em um liquidificador para o preparo de vitaminas. "É muito bom que os clientes agora se sintam confortáveis quanto a receber ingredientes e comida pelo correio", diz Jenna Tanenbaum, cofundadora da Green Blender. Tradução PAULO MIGLIACCI | comida |
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] | O primeiro supermercado dedicado exclusivamente à venda de alimentos que seriam destinados à lata do lixo –ou seja, aqueles produtos com prazo de validade já vencido, mas que ainda são apropriados para o consumo, foi inaugurado na Dinamarca. O Wefood foi inaugurado na capital, Copenhague, pela princesa Marie e a ministra do Meio Ambiente e Alimentação, Eva Kjer Hansen. A iniciativa é de uma ONG dinamarquesa; a ideia é combater o desperdício. A ONU calcula que pelo menos um terço dos alimentos produzidos no mundo é jogado fora a cada ano. "Todos os dias, mais de 800 milhões de pessoas no mundo vão dormir com fome. Ao mesmo tempo, só na Dinamarca cerca de 700 mil toneladas de alimentos por ano vão para o lixo", disse à BBC Brasil o dinamarquês Per Bjerre, da ONG responsável pelo Wefood, a Folkekirkens Nødhjælp. É talvez o primeiro supermercado do gênero no mundo, diz Bjerre –que faz questão de destacar que não se trata de um "supermercado social", destinado a pessoas de baixa renda. "Os clientes são de várias camadas da sociedade, e têm em comum o desejo de comprar produtos a preços substancialmente menores e combater o desperdício de alimentos. Além, talvez, do desejo de lutar contra a pobreza, que está entre os motivos da abertura do Wefood." O interesse dos dinamarqueses pela novidade já é, segundo Per Bjerre, evidente. "Vendemos praticamente todo o nosso estoque no primeiro dia de funcionamento", disse ele. "E há filas do lado de fora do supermercado antes de abrirmos as portas." DATA DE VALIDADE Com um espaço de 250 metros quadrados, o novo supermercado oferece uma variedade de produtos que inclui laticínios, carnes, frutas, vegetais, pães e alimentos congelados que já ultrapassaram a data de validade recomendada nas embalagens. Os preços são entre 30 a 50 por cento mais baixos em comparação ao que é cobrado nos supermercados tradicionais. Para suprir as prateleiras, o Wefood opera em cooperação com duas das maiores cadeias dinamarquesas de supermercado, a Føtex e a Danske Supermarked, além de mercados locais. "E estamos buscando mais fornecedores", diz Per Bjerre. Todos os funcionários do Wefood trabalham de forma voluntária, e os lucros serão destinados a projetos de combate à pobreza conduzidos pela ONG Folkekirkens Nødhjælp em regiões como a África e a Ásia. O trabalho dos voluntários cumpre uma função essencial. "Quando há frutas já em vias de apodrecer em uma caixa, é mais barato para os supermercados jogar toda a caixa fora, em vez de gastar tempo selecionando as frutas boas e ruins. Mas os voluntários do WeFood fazem esse trabalho com prazer", disse Bjerre. Entre as razões apontadas para o desperdício mundial de alimentos, estão as condições inadequadas de armazenamento –e também a adoção de prazos de validade demasiadamente rigorosos. "Ainda existem regras e barreiras que tornam difícil distribuir alimentos com prazos de validade vencidos", destacou a ministra dinamarquesa do Meio Ambiente durante a inauguração do Wefood, observando que pretende discutir a questão no âmbito da União Europeia. "É ridículo jogar comida fora e é prejudicial ao meio ambiente, já que implica em desperdício de recursos como água e energia, necessários à sua produção. O Wefood é um passo importante na batalha contra o desperdício de alimentos", concluiu Eva Kjer Hansen. FINANCIAMENTO COLETIVO A inauguração do supermercado foi resultado de um projeto que levou um ano para ser concretizado, e que foi viabilizado através do sistema de financiamento coletivo conhecido como crowdfunding. A coleta de doações reuniu um milhão de coroas dinamarquesas (cerca de US$ 145 mil). A fim de superar obstáculos legais para a venda de produtos com prazo de validade vencido, a ONG Folkekirkens Nødhjælp trabalhou junto a políticos dinamarqueses para mudar as regras. Só depois disso, o supermercado pôde abrir as portas. O Wefood é mais uma iniciativa deste país que, nos últimos cinco anos, conseguiu reduzir em 25% o desperdício de alimentos. A empreitada, liderada por ONGs dinamarquesas como a Stop Spild Af Mad ("Pare o Desperdício de Comida", em tradução livre), inclui campanhas de conscientização dos consumidores e palestras em escolas para chamar a atenção para o valor –tanto financeiro como ambiental– de comprar produtos com datas de vencimento prestes a expirar. Cada vez mais, os dinamarqueses buscam nas prateleiras dos supermercados esse tipo de produto, que é vendido com desconto. Reduzir o desperdício de alimentos também se tornou uma estratégia central dos principais supermercados da Dinamarca para aumentar a competitividade. Reportagem da TV dinamarquesa mostrou recentemente que produtos de preço reduzido, com data de validade a ponto de vencer, têm "voado" das prateleiras - nos últimos anos, o supermercado Dansk Supermarked, pioneiro dessa estratégia, passou a jogar fora 50% menos pães, e entre 10% e 20% por cento menos frutas e vegetais. "Parece pouco, mas faz uma grande diferença. E nossos clientes apreciam isso", disse na TV dinamarquesa Maja Lindstrøm Sejersen, porta-voz do Dansk Supermarked. Conter o desperdício é vital: projeções da ONU indicam que a população mundial deve chegar a 9,5 bilhões de pessoas até 2075 - o que vai significar três bilhões a mais de pessoas para alimentar, em um mundo onde milhões já passam fome agora. | comida |
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] | "O mercado municipal traz memórias, é onde se comia pastel e se compravam laranjas. Esse valor afetivo está se tornando uma marca", reflete Renato Maluf, professor da Universidade Federal Rural do Rio. Equipamentos públicos de abastecimento, como mercados e feiras, têm como função regular o mercado, ao estabelecer preços, e oferecer produtos frescos à população. Segundo a Prefeitura de São Paulo, os mercados assumiram um papel que vai além do abastecimento e funcionam como lugar de convívio social, com estrutura segura. No caso do Mercado de Pinheiros, agora renovado, há uma preocupação com a memória e preservação do lugar, principalmente por parte de coletivos como o BatataMemo, que resgata a história do largo da Batata. "A chegada [dos chefs] pode ser positiva, mas o poder público precisa firmar uma política de mercado municipal: qual é a sua função? Caso contrário, pode virar um equipamento de elite", diz a publicitária Fernanda Salles, ativista das causas do bairro. Para a acadêmica Isabella Callia, a "implementação de um modelo turístico em um mercado municipal, equipamento público por primazia, pode vir a ser positiva caso estimule a retomada do hábito da população do entorno". PREFEITURA A parceria que deu fruto aos boxes de biomas foi formalizada por meio de um termo de cooperação entre a prefeitura e o Instituto Atá e não por meio de licitação, como é feito normalmente. "A prefeitura resolveu testar um novo modelo com o intuito de oferecer à população local maior variedade gastronômica, acessível e com qualidade. O projeto do Alex Atala foi considerado inovador e pode servir de referência para iniciativas em outros mercados municipais", disse à Folha o prefeito Fernando Haddad (PT). Um modelo que agregue um viés turístico não necessariamente se opõe a um papel de abastecimento, de acordo com a presidente do Conselho Municipal de Segurança Alimentar e Nutricional, Christiane Araújo Costa. "Precisamos evitar uma visão setorizada da alimentação. Se a pessoa pode provar no mercado uma fruta que ela não conhece, isso é algo integrador. Perdemos muito do entendimento do percurso do alimento", diz. "Essas iniciativas são uma aposta para revitalizar o mercado." | comida |
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] | O Tribunal de Justiça do Estado de São Paulo encerrou, na última quarta-feira (24), a discussão sobre o projeto de lei que proibia o comércio e a produção de foie gras na cidade de São Paulo. No julgamento de uma Adin (ação direta de inconstitucionalidade) movida pela ANR (Associação Nacional de Restaurantes), o tribunal decidiu, agora em caráter definitivo, que o projeto aprovado pelo prefeito Fernando Haddad (PT) em junho do ano passado é, de fato, inconstitucional. Na ação, a ANR argumentava que a lei significaria "usurpação de competências" por parte do município. "A proibição de produção e comercialização de foie gras não encerra matéria de predominante interesse local", ratificou o relator do caso, desembargador Sérgio Rui, em despacho do Órgão Especial do TJ-SP. Em julho de 2015, Rui já havia suspendido a aprovação do texto; em agosto, o órgão negou recurso movido pela prefeitura à decisão. Assim, empórios e restaurantes da cidade podem continuar a comercializar e usar normalmente a iguaria francesa –fígado gordo de patos e gansos. Vale dizer, ainda cabe recurso da decisão, agora ao STJ (Superior Tribunal de Justiça), em Brasília; a prefeitura anunciou que deve recorrer. "A proibição nunca chegou a valer", afirma o advogado da ANR, Eduardo Yoshikawa. O CASO O cerco ao foie gras em São Paulo começou a ser desenhado em 2013, quando o vereador Laércio Benko (PHS) apresentou um projeto que impediria a venda e a produção da iguaria na cidade. Depois de passar um tempo esquecido na Câmara, o projeto foi aprovado, por unanimidade, em maio de 2015. Cerca de 40 dias depois, Haddad sancionou o texto –depois também de protestos de ativistas de defesa dos animais pedirem sua aprovação e de um parecer da Procuradoria Geral do Município recomendar o veto ao projeto. A expectativa à época, diga-se, era que o prefeito, tido como apreciador da iguaria, derrubasse o texto vindo da Câmara. "Nem tudo que gosto, eu consumo", justificou, dias depois. Tradicional na culinária francesa, o foie gras –na tradução literal, "fígado gorduroso"– é obtido a partir da alimentação forçada de gansos e patos, por uma técnica conhecida como "gavage". Na justificativa do projeto original, o vereador Benko alegava que o produto, classificado como "simples aperitivo das classes abastadas", "não traz nenhum beneficio à saúde humana" e que, para sua produção, submete as aves a "um verdadeiro sofrimento". | comida |
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] | Os donos do Pitico e do Pita Kebab acabam de abrir uma nova opção para quem busca comprar alimentos orgânicos. Batizado de Quitandoca, o espaço fica no próprio Pitico, um bar que ganhou fama com seu ambiente descontraído, uma cozinha que funciona em contêineres e refeições feitas ao ar livre, sem fru-frus, em cadeiras de praia. Segundo Gabriela Mattos, uma das sócias que idealizou o projeto, o objetivo é incentivar práticas agroecológicas e consumo sustentável. "Defendemos ideias como agricultura familiar, compras diretas, preço justo e venda de alimentos frescos", diz. Ali, ficam expostos e à venda frutas, legumes, temperos, laticínios e grãos, além de doces e bolachas caseiras –tudo fornecido por pequenos produtores, em caminho direto, sem atravessadores. Pode haver, por exemplo, banana, limão, melancia, cebola, alho, chuchu, abóboras e gengibre. Ainda não há estrutura, porém, para a comercialização de itens mais sensíveis, como folhas. Por enquanto, as compras podem ser feitas apenas presencialmente, de terça a domingo, mas há planos de ampliar o negócio, em breve, para viabilizar pedidos de cestas orgânicas também on-line. No site, o consumidor personalizará uma cesta com o que desejar. O pedido será encaminhado aos fornecedores e deverá ser retirado pelo cliente na Quitandoca. QUITANDOCA QUANDO de terça a sexta, das 10h às 20h; sábado e domingo, das 10h às 18h ONDE rua Guaicui, 61, largo da Batata | comida |
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] | Apesar de deter o título de "melhor restaurante do mundo", o Noma, em Copenhague não é o melhor restaurante da Dinamarca, segundo os críticos do guia "Michelin", que atribuíram nesta quarta-feira (24) três estrelas a outra casa. A edição nórdica do guia coroou outro restaurante da capital, Geranium, como o primeiro do país com esta distinção. O Noma continua a ter duas estrelas. O chef do Geranium, Rasmus Kofoed, foi ganhador do concurso mundial de cozinha Bocuse d'Or em 2011. Adepto ao uso de alimentos orgânicos, ele abriu seu restaurante em 2007, obteve sua primeira estrela "Michelin" em 2012 e a segunda em 2013. Na Dinamarca, o reconhecimento não surpreende aos gastrônomos, que vêm destacando a qualidade constante do Geranium. "Noma faz da comida um jogo", declarou à televisão pública DR Jesper Uhrup Jensen, da revista Gastro. "Servem uma comida divertida, mas há piadas demais para o 'Michelin'", acrescentou o jornalista. O Noma, do chef René Redzepi, foi eleito o melhor restaurante do mundo na lista da revista britânica "Restaurant" em 2010, 2011, 2012 e 2014. "La Liste", o ranking que compila mais de 200 guias gastronômicos e sites participativos, atribui ao Geranium o 173o lugar no mundo, à frente do Noma, no posto 217. | comida |
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] | "Delivéri para na porta –e já dá moleza de atender a campainha, vai ter qualquer coisa errada, com certeza esqueceram a Coca outra vez", já escreveu a colunista Nina Horta. Mas, apesar de às vezes esquecer o refrigerante e trazer batatas molengas, o delivery parece estar em seu melhor momento. A consultoria internacional de restaurantes Baum+Whiteman colocou o serviço de entrega em seu relatório anual como principal tendência em comidas e bebidas para 2016. Os motivos: aplicativos que reúnem restaurantes –e que, no futuro, podem identificar o gosto do cliente e fazer sugestões mais precisas-, a evolução de embalagens e a entrada, em alguns países, de empresas especializadas em transporte –como o Uber, ainda não há previsão da vinda do UberEats para o Brasil. Por aqui, as pizzas ainda são campeãs de entrega, de acordo com as principais empresas de pedidos on-line. Engordam a lista os sanduíches e a comida oriental. Há em todos os casos algo em comum, de acordo com o professor de negócios da gastronomia na Anhembi Morumbi Mario Oliveira: a comida entregue nunca é tão boa quanto no restaurante. "Quem exige qualidade não espera isso do delivery. Nesse caso, o custo pesa mais do que o benefício, pois o benefício é estar em casa." "Levando isso em conta, até restaurantes gastronômicos podem entrar nesse mercado, se entenderem que só alguns de seus pratos poderiam ir para um menu de entrega", afirma Michael Whiteman, da Baum+Whiteman. Nas páginas do guia "Michelin" Rio e SP de 2015 há casas paulistanas que aderiram ao serviço: Miya, Brasserie Victoria, Tian e Zena Caffe, que figuram na lista do Bib Gourmand, os "bons e baratos" da publicação. Antes de começar o serviço, Flavio Miyamura, chef do Miya, fez testes por oito meses. Algumas receitas foram retiradas do cardápio e outras, adaptadas –o lamen, campeão de pedidos, é entregue com o caldo à parte, em um saquinho à vácuo. Ele conta que o motoqueiro Silas Pereira foi treinado para explicar os pratos como um "garçom de longas distâncias". Famoso pelas coxinhas, o Veloso vai retomar o delivery em março, em nova casa e com barman exclusivo -as caipirinhas viajam entre lâminas de gelo e chegam tinindo. PELO CELULAR Os aplicativos de delivery, que apontam as casas mais próximas do cliente, pipocam no Brasil há quatro anos. Eles atuam como um intermediário entre cliente e restaurante, com cardápio atualizado e opção de pagamento on-line –não há controle do tempo de entrega ou qualidade da comida por parte das empresas, mas aos clientes é permitido avaliar o serviço. O app pode servir como um "canal de divulgação" do restaurante e cobra uma taxa da casa em cada pedido, de cerca de 10%. No caso do Disk Cook, braço do iFood que faz a entrega para o restaurante, a taxa é mais alta, de 27%. Segundo Felipe Fioravante, presidente-executivo da empresa, o desafio hoje é fazer a taxa de entrega não parecer um absurdo. "O percurso que algo que custa R$ 20 faz para chegar é o mesmo de um banquete. Como fazer isso a um preço que as pessoas considerem justo?" * COMIDA PARA VIAGEM Veja o que privilegiar e o que evitar nos pedidos O que vai bem ‣ Arrozes e massas com pouco molho (quando em excesso, a massa absorve o líquido e passa do ponto) ‣ Picadinhos e guisados ‣ Sanduíches e hambúrgueres O que vai mal ‣ Frituras perdem crocância com o vapor dentro da caixa ‣ Carnes de cordeiro e porco tendem a ficar ressecadas O que ajuda ‣ molhos e caldos separados de itens crocantes ‣ guarnições à parte, para que o prato não vire um "mexidão" ‣ locais próximos, com tempo curto de viagem (até 20 minutos) ‣ no caso das frituras, embalagens com respiro e com um guardanapo dentro ‣ dar retorno ao restaurante ou em aplicativos sobre a qualidade do pedido ‣ cardápios pequenos contribuem para a logística * FOLHA TESTA APPS Confira os prós e contras de três aplicativos de delivery PEDIDOSJÁ Pedido a pizza mais bem avaliada chegou dez minutos antes do previsto, com azeitonas à parte, como solicitado Prós a interface é clara e simples; mostra de cara o valor da taxa de entrega Contras tem poucos restaurantes com opção de pagamento on-line Número de restaurantes 6.000 - IFOOD Pedido o sanduíche da lanchonete mais bem avaliada chegou em menos de 15 minutos -como pedido, com picles à parte Prós número de casas e filtros para escolher mais facilmente Contras erro em tela de observações causa confusão (ao ticar, não se sabe se o item sai ou entra no sanduíche) Número de restaurantes 10 mil - HELLOFOOD Pedido o temaki do restaurante mais bem avaliado (depois de pizzarias e lanchonetes) chegou dez minutos antes do previsto Prós tem a mais atraente e completa interface; oferece opção de pagamento on-line já no primeiro uso Contras o campo de observações do pedido não foi localizado com facilidade Número de restaurantes 2.500 | comida |
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] | Existe certa inovação no delivery lançado pela Maria Feijão no ano passado, ainda com área de entrega bem restrita. Pede-se feijoada em casa como se estivesse a pedir uma quentinha ao vizinho, mas com profissionalismo. O pedido chega no tempo acordado ao telefone e exibe a mesma delicadeza nas embalagens: tudo separado, etiquetado, bem acondicionado. Abre-se, então, o recipiente da feijoada e nos vem à cabeça o sambista Adoniran Barbosa a devorar, madrugada adentro, os feijões com os vários cortes de porco em um botequim na praça da Sé, em mil novecentos e alguma coisa. Chico Buarque a pedir mais água no feijão. Quiçá os ensinamentos de Renato Pompeu, em seu "A Dialética da Feijoada", no qual trata desse prato nacional popular no triângulo Rio-São Paulo-Minas. Fecha digressão. O feijão, firme, vem em caldo espesso e perfumado, com carne-seca, paio, linguiça, lombo e costelinha defumada. Por R$ 39 (individual), soma-se ainda a porção de arroz (soltinho), couve (pouco viçosa), farofa de farinha de mandioca (com bacon "que estala", bingo!), laranja e molho de pimenta, intenso. Como extras, porção de torresmo (crocante, mas pouco carnudo; R$ 8, 250 g) e caldinho de feijão (saboroso, mas ultraespesso, um erro; R$ 6). Existe boa tentativa em oferecer uma versão vegana (R$ 42) –mas não parece um descompasso? Bem, na prática, o caldo é mais ralo e menos saboroso, apesar de sinalizar um defumado e de haver boa presença de legumes, em ponto mais resistente, bons de morder. A farofa sem nada de origem animal é murcha (ainda que haja semente de soja) e o arroz integral não se salva: duro e oleoso. Ponto para o pavê de receita secreta (R$ 6), que intercala creme branco (doce e leitoso), biscoito maisena e doce de leite denso, para comer de colher, geladinho, ui. MARIA FEIJÃO QUANDO: DE QUA. A DOM., DAS 11H30 ÀS 16H30 ONDE: R. JOSÉ MARIA LISBOA, 662, JARDIM PAULISTA; TEL. (11) 3052-1012 | comida |
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] | O parmesão que americanos estão ralando sobre o prato de massa pode ter um tanto de madeira em sua composição. Madeira? Sim, agentes da FDA (Food and Drug Administration), órgão equivalente à Anvisa nos EUA, visitaram uma produção de queijo na Pensilvânia, de surpresa. E encontraram o que estavam procurando, informou a agência Bloomberg: evidências de que um queijo rotulado como 100% parmesão tinha sido barateado com outros ingredientes em sua composição, como polpa de madeira. O produto estava sendo distribuído para grandes redes de mercado do país. Alguns fornecedores de parmesão ralado têm adulterado produtos incluindo muita celulose, um antiaglutinante que bloqueia a umidade e dá textura cremosa, que vem da madeira, ou usando cheddar mais barato no lugar do queijo romano. Por causa disso, a presidente da empresa Castle Cheese Inc., Michelle Myrter, por exemplo, pode responder criminalmente. Especialistas ouvidos pela Bloomberg afirmam que a celulose é um aditivo seguro e aceitável em níveis entre 2% e 4%. Mas alguns produtos disponíveis no mercado foram testados em laboratório e apresentaram até 8,8% de celulose. A FDA regula o que pode ser legalmente nomeado "parmesão" ou "romano", com leis estabelecidas na década de 1950, para garantir que produtores não vendam queijos diferentes. E esses queijos duros, de receitas italianas, são muito consumidos nos Estados Unidos –os números seguem crescendo, segundo o Departamento de Agricultura. Mas os produtores italianos não estão satisfeitos com essa história. O Consórcio do Parmigiano Reggiano já solicitou à União Europeia que proteja seu produto das companhias americanas, que estão usando os nomes de seus queijos e bandeiras italianas nas embalagens. Eles definiram isso como um "engano". Por causa do alto custo, esses queijos duros são os que podem conter mais "ingredientes substitutos". Como eles passam muito tempo envelhecendo, perdem água, e rendem menos do que o cheddar, por exemplo. Esse rendimento resulta em uma diferença de muitos dólares para a indústria Alemães protegem a reputação de sua cerveja com a lei da pureza, franceses proíbem produtores de espumante de chamá-los "champanhe" fora da região e, agora, o governo americano tem se dedicado a defender a autenticidade de seus queijos ralados. | comida |
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] | Se você está em busca da melhor baguete do mundo, uma bem fresquinha e crocante, Paris seria o destino mais certeiro, não? Não mais, segundo o resultado de uma competição internacional de padeiros, ocorrida na semana passada. Isso porque os vencedores da Coupe du Monde de Boulangerie –a copa do mundo da panificação– foram padeiros sul-coreanos. O resultado foi considerado uma humilhação aos franceses, até porque a competição ocorreu em Paris –a capital mundial da baguete. Até o presidente francês, François Hollande, presenciou a derrota dos franceses, que amargaram um terceiro lugar. Taiwan ficou em segundo. Para os franceses, a derrota deve ser difícil de engolir, ainda que os ganhadores sul-coreanos não cheguem a ser desconhecidos no país. Há dois anos, eles inauguraram uma cadeia de cafeterias sul-coreana Paris Baguette, que já se expandiu pelo país. Mudanças rápidas Além de levar a França no nome, a empresa usa símbolos do país: seu logo tem a Torre Eiffel e os funcionários vestem roupas no estilo bretão. A Coreia do Sul passou de um país baseado na agricultura para uma economia industrial em apenas 50 anos. E o sucesso do pão sul-coreano mostra que essa mudança está se enraizando em todas as áreas. As preferências alimentares dos sul-coreanos, por exemplo, estão mudando à medida que sobe o poder aquisitivo do país. Há indicativos de que o consumo de trigo per capita cresça a cada ano, enquanto o consumo de arroz cai. Essa mudança na dieta teve início quando o país começou a importar trigo dos Estados Unidos para compensar a escassez de alimentos que atingia o território sul-coreano, há mais de 40 anos. Homens cozinheiros Na cozinha, as relações entre os gêneros na Coreia do Sul também estão mudando. Agora, os homens cozinham mais - pelo menos na hora de aparecer para o público. Os três padeiros que venceram o concurso em Paris são homens, e a TV do país está repleta de programas de gastronomia em que os chefs são homens. A comida passou de um status de mero combustível do corpo para se tornar uma fonte de prazer. Aos sábados de manhã em Seul, é possível participar de concursos de cozinha onde, novamente, há muitos homens. Um dos participantes, K.H. Park, conta que sua mãe ficaria chocada se o visse cozinhando. "Quando eu era pequeno, um menino não podia nem chegar perto da cozinha." Park tem mais de 60 anos e se aposentou há quatro. Sua história que pode ser considerada bem coreana: trabalhou durante quatro anos na Mongólia, onde não teve alternativa a não ser aprender a cozinhar. Agora, em sua aposentadoria, cozinhar é um prazer. No concurso em Seul, muitos dos pratos escolhidos pelos participantes são ocidentais. Há uma tendência que favorece a gastronomia global na qual pizza, carne e, claro, pão estilo francês estão cada vez mais populares. Mudanças culturais Um adesivo com a silhueta de um cachorro é um indicador das mudanças que estão surgindo. O selo indica que cães são bem-vindos a estabelecimentos gastronômicos –em uma época em que cachorrinhos de estimação se tornaram um "acessório" para muitos jovens endinheirados, assim como acontece no Ocidente. Isso mostra ainda que algumas tradições estão se enfraquecendo, já que alguns locais onde antes se servia carne de cachorro se transformaram em bistrôs que aceitam a presença dos animais de estimação. À medida que a prosperidade muda os gostos dos sul-coreanos, esses restaurante tradicionais de carne de cachorro também vão mudando, ao se chocarem com os costumes ocidentais. | comida |
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] | O famoso Festival de Sopas da Ceagesp (Companhia de Entrepostos e Armazéns Gerais) inspirou um novo evento, um tanto mais adequado às altas temperaturas do verão: um Festival de Massas. A partir de quarta-feira (17), serão servidas no Espaço Gastronômico da Ceagesp mais de 40 opções de pratos, à vontade, por um preço fixo de R$ 45,90 por pessoa (bebidas não estão incluídas). O cardápio muda semanalmente e inclui saladas, massas, risotos, molhos e carnes. Há receitas como mezzaluna de espinafre e ricota ao molho zucchini, risoto de cogumelo fresco e fettuccine al mare. Como a sopa de cebola do festival original, este evento também terá um prato "destaque", um macarrão caipira no tacho –o espaguete com molho de frango caipira será receita fixa no cardápio. A lista de massas da semana é informada no site festivaisceagesp.com.br. O festival vai até o dia 8 de maio. FESTIVAL DE MASSAS CEAGESP Onde Espaço Gastronômico Ceagesp ( (altura do da av. dr. Gastão Vidigal, altura do 1.946, portão quatro, Vila Leopoldina) Quando de 17/2 a 8/5; qua. e qui., das 18h à 0h; sex. e sáb., das 18h à 1h.; dom., das 11h30 às 17h Quanto R$ 45,90 por pessoa | comida |
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] | O chef suíço Benoit Violier –cuja morte chocou o mundo da gastronomia ao no último mês pode ter sido vítima de uma fraude que o deixou em problemas financeiros. De acordo com a revista suíça "Bilan", a polícia do país investiga se o chef teria perdido de U$S 800 mil (R$ 3,2 milhões) a US$ 2 milhões (R$ 7,9 milhões) após comprar vinhos da companhia Private Finance Partners (PFP), também suíça. A empresa teria vendido uma série de vinhos raros, com valores entre US$ 20 mil (R$ 80 mil) e US$ 40 mil (R$ 159 mil), mas nunca os entregou. Segundo as informações da revista, o esquema consistia em vender os mesmos produtos, repetidamente, a diversas casas –incluindo a comandada por Voilier, Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville, premiado com três estrelas "Michelin" e número um no ranking francês "La Liste". Com a fraude, a Private Finance Partners teria embolsado quase US$ 8 milhões (R$ 31,5 milhões). A companhia declarou falência em novembro do ano passado. Ainda segundo a "Bilan", um dos donos da companhia era amigo próximo de Violier. Uma fonte da revista afirma que "não há dúvida" de que o chef tenha comprado ao menos alguns vinhos da PFP. André Kudelski, sócio do l'Hotel de Ville, nega que o chef tenha se envolvido na fraude. "O restaurante não tem problemas com a companhia citada no artigo [da Bilan] e não perdeu nenhum dinheiro. O restaurante não se envolveu e a família de Violier não teve nada a ver com essa história", disse ele à RTS. "O restaurante está cheio, melhor do que em qualquer outro ano. Temos uma base financeira muito sólida". | comida |
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] | Um dos mais relevantes cozinheiros da França, Paul Bocuse, comemora 90 anos nesta quinta-feira (11) com uma robusta biografia empreendedora que lhe rendeu o título de melhor chef do século 20. Há mais de cinco décadas ostentando estrelas do guia "Michelin" –a tradicional publicação que elege os melhores restaurantes e hotéis mundo–, Bocuse é um dos criadores da "nouvelle cuisine", movimento que revolucionou a gastronomia francesa pregando leveza aos pratos. São inúmeras as suas receitas célebres –a mais famosa delas é a sopa de trufas negras–, mas extraordinária, de fato, é a contribuição de Bocuse à gastronomia, através da defesa da simplicidade e da seleção de produtos de qualidade. "Tenho três estrelas, tive três 'by-pass' e sempre tive três mulheres", resumia ao jornal "Libération" Bocuse, que em 1946 se casou com Raymonde Duvert, 20 anos depois conheceu Raymone Carlut e aos 70 anos se uniu a Patricia Zizza, que administra sua carreira. Ele almoça com uma, toma o chá com outra e na hora do jantar está com a terceira, dizem os amigos íntimos de Bocuse, que nasceu em 1926 às margens do Rio Saône, no pequeno município de Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, no leste da França. Foi nessa região, próxima a Lyon, onde ele começou a se aproximar da gastronomia, no restaurante da família, que dava continuidade a uma linhagem de cozinheiros que remonta a 1765. É lá também que agora está o principal dos 23 restaurantes que ele tem espalhados por França, Suíça, Estados Unidos e Japão. Aos 15 anos, Bocuse se tornou aprendiz de Claude Maret. Em 1944, quando chegou à maioridade, se alistou nas Forças Francesas Livres para combater na Alemanha nazista, época em que ganhou a tatuagem que leva no braço esquerdo com a imagem de um galo, feita pelos soldados americanos que lhe atenderam após um ferimento. Depois da guerra, o jovem Bocuse continuou sua formação e fez amizade com os irmãos-cozinheiros Troisgros e se colocou à disposição de Fernand Point, que ele considera seu "mentor" e para quem dedicou seus excelentes caranguejos de rio gratinados. Em 1958, abriu seu próprio restaurante, recuperando o L'Auberge du Pont, a loja da família, e que foi rebatizado com seu próprio nome. Em 1965, recebeu a terceira das estrelas, que nunca lhe abandonaram. Mas o auge de sua carreira veio no início da década de 1970, com a "nouvelle cuisine". Bocuse consolidou o movimento ao lançar um livro de receitas baseadas nos preceitos dessa inovadora forma de cozinhar, que prioriza ingredientes frescos, molhos leves e dá especial atenção à apresentação. Esse movimento representou também a consagração dos cozinheiros como estrelas midiáticas, circunstância que Bocuse aproveitou com habilidade: recebeu a comenda da Legião de Honra, em 1975, desembarcou no Japão, em 1979, e criou o Bocuse d'Or (1987), prestigiada competição na qual, a cada dois anos, 24 grandes cozinheiros concorrem. Em 1990, fundou o Instituto Paul Bocuse, um dos templos de aprendizagem da profissão, com sede em Lyon. A saúde do chef que inspirou a animação "Ratatouille" (2007) –que sofre de parkinson–, vem fraquejando, mas ele não perdeu o bom humor. Em 2014, por exemplo, se submeteu a uma complicada cirurgia e, ao se recuperar, disse a sua esposa: "Querida, fui bem-sucedido na vida, mas fracassei na morte". "A vida é uma piada. Portanto, é preciso trabalhar como se fôssemos morrer com cem anos e viver como se fôssemos morrer amanhã", disse certa vez o chef. | comida |
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] | Quando se lê Hirá Ramen Izakaya, espera-se o que ele vende de largada, no nome. Bem, se formos recorrer a uma explicação bem simplista, um izakaya, no Japão, apoia-se no tripé bebida-petiscos-ambiente familiar, pequeno e despretensioso. O que quer dizer que, já da porta, o cliente se sente um tanto injuriado: o espaço da casa, que abrigava o extinto AK Villa, em nada conversa com a tradição. De pé-direito alto e música idem, carece de aconchego. Pede-se um drinque sugerido pela garçonete (esperta e delicada), que combina cachaça, purê de caju, açúcar de cardamomo, limão (R$ 32). Dulcíssimo. Dos petiscos a serem compartilhados, vale o lado lúdico da experiência de provar o saquaritá, um molusco escondido na concha, com gosto de maresia, embebido em um caldo leve e ácido. O pão chinês, feito no vapor, é massudo (sem a delicadeza que lhe é característica), mas envolve uma barriga de porco tenra, enriquecida com molho picante e aioli de leite, uma emulsão leve com consistência de maionese (R$ 22, dois). Já a carne suína empanada tem duplo tropeço -é pouco suculenta e de superfície murcha. Na tigela, há ainda omelete (de doçura exagerada) e gohan. Pois este, o arroz japonês, merece mais cuidado -em vez de úmido e aglutinado, seco e solto (impossível de fisgar com o hashi). O tataki de salmão é outra escolha para compor o teishoku (menu-executivo servido no almoço, de R$ 35 a R$ 45). O peixe, de sabor neutro, trouxe uma espinha. Bem, a cena não condiz com o olhar dos donos, imersos no negócio e com bagagem -entre eles, Daniel Hirata, que flerta com a cozinha coreana, esteve à frente do bem-sucedido Mori Sushi Ohta. Hirá Ramen Izakaya QUANDO: seg. a qua., das 12h às 15h e das 19h às 23h30; qui., das 12h às 15h e das 19h à 0h; sex., das 12h às 15h e das 19h à 1h; sáb., das 12h30 às 16h e das 19h à 1h; dom., das 12h30 às 16h e das 19h às 23h30 ONDE: r. Fradique Coutinho, 1.240 V. Madalena; tel. (11) 3034-3832 | comida |
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] | Elas poderiam ser só uma moda, mas as pequenas e coloridas máquinas que fazem café expresso caseiro continuam aparecendo. Desde a quebra de patentes da pioneira Nespresso, em 2012, as cápsulas ganharam múltiplos rótulos, o que embaralha as possibilidades de escolha. Além dos aparelhos da fabricante suíça, que hoje recebem cerca de cem cápsulas compatíveis, até com grãos brasileiros, há máquinas com sistema próprio (que não aceitam alternativas, como a illycaffè). Outras aceitam cápsulas similares, que não as do fabricante, mas que funcionam na máquina -e que ainda não estão disponíveis no Brasil, no entanto (como a Delta Q). "Aqui, a demanda é pelas compatíveis com Nespresso. Outras são, neste momento, economicamente inviáveis", explica Alexx Noga, diretor comercial e de marketing da Kaffa. A empresa portuguesa, instalada em Ribeirão Preto (SP) desde 2014, produz cápsulas "genéricas" para cerca de 95 marcas. As monodoses estimularam o mercado brasileiro de grãos. A Abic (Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Café) estima que o consumo desse produto deve triplicar até 2019, chegando a render R$ 2,9 bilhões. As marcas têm investido pesado. Em dezembro, a Nestlé inaugurou a primeira fábrica de cápsulas (da marca Nescafé Dolce Gusto) fora da Europa, em Montes Claros (MG), mesma cidade onde o Grupo 3corações inaugura a sua, ainda este ano. Até meados de 2016, a guerra esquenta com a entrada no país da Mocoffee, do Grupo Wine, empresa brasileira de e-commerce de bebidas que adquiriu a empresa suíça de Eric Favre, criador do sistema da Nespresso. A fábrica, em Viana (ES), já está em construção e a empresa contratou a barista Isabela Raposeiras (Coffee Lab) como consultora. A Folha escolheu cinco máquinas e indica abaixo pontos positivos e negativos de cada uma. * Sistema Nescafé Dolce Gusto (Café Dolce Gusto) QUANTO de R$ 444 (Dolce Gusto Piccolo) a R$ 999 (Dolce Gusto Drop Automática) CÁPSULAS R$ 24,50 (caixa com 16) PONTO POSITIVOS faz várias bebidas, quentes e frias (22 opções, entre chá, chocolate, cappuccino, café com leite, expresso) PONTOS NEGATIVOS em função do design, o modelo Dolce Gusto Drop Automática (foto) sacrificou o tamanho do reservatório de água (0,8 litro) > Cápsulas compatíveis não disponíveis no Brasil - Sistema Nespresso QUANTO de R$ 399 (Inissia) a R$ 1.799 (Gran Maestria) CÁPSULAS de R$ 1,75 a R$ 2,30 (a unidade em caixas com dez) PONTOS POSITIVOS além de cafés, alguns modelos fazem bebidas com leite, que tem compartimento exclusivo PONTOS NEGATIVOS alguns modelos, como o Lattissima Touch (R$ 999, foto), são um pouco barulhentos durante a extração > Há cápsulas compatíveis (cerca de cem marcas) - Sistema Iperespresso (illycaffè) QUANTO de R$ 950 (Francis Francis Y1.1, foto) a R$ 1.200 (Francis Francis X7.1) CÁPSULAS R$ 52 (lata com 21) PONTOS POSITIVOS máquinas robustas e com design arrojado. As cápsulas de café (sete opções) vêm em embalagem pressurizada PONTOS NEGATIVOS o alto preço das máquinas e cápsulas > Não tem cápsulas compatíveis - Sistema TRES (café 3 Corações) QUANTO de R$ 399 (TRES Mimo) a R$ 699 (TRES Gesto) CÁPSULAS R$ 15 a R$ 19,90 (caixa com dez) PONTOS POSITIVOS faz 19 tipos de bebidas (café, chá, chocolate quente, cappuccino e café com leite) PONTOS NEGATIVOS botões de extração de cada bebida, diferenciados por cor, podem causar confusão no modelo TRES Modo (foto) > Não tem cápsulas compatíveis - Sistema Delta Q (Delta Cafés) QUANTO R$ 299 (Qool Automática) e R$ 399 (Qosy Automática) CÁPSULAS R$ 15,95 a R$ 17,85 (caixa com dez) PONTOS POSITIVOS faz cafés e chás, num total de 16 opções (12 blends de café e quatro tipos de chá) PONTOS NEGATIVOS regulagem de altura da xícara na (Qool Evolution, foto, R$ 349) é difícil de entender, mesmo com manual > Cápsulas compatíveis não disponíveis no Brasil * PERGUNTAS E RESPOSTAS Veja algumas dúvidas frequentes sobre as máquinas de café expresso. O que muda entre as máquinas? O sistema é o mesmo: o aparelho fura a cápsula e ejeta água com pressão. O que muda é o design, a potência do motor (que pode resultar em economia de energia) e a diversidade das cápsulas Como escolher? Escolha entre uma multibebidas ou exclusivamente de café -em geral, a melhor opção para quem gosta muito dessa bebida. Entre funções e facilidades de preparo, avalie o controle manual de dose (pode ser mais trabalhoso preparar a bebida), descarte automático de cápsula (ajuda a prevenir entupimento), acessórios disponíveis (para aquecer o leite, por exemplo), e quanto se quer gastar Preciso estar atento à potência? Não, é mais importante que a energia da casa seja constante, para que ela trabalhe 100% (em temperatura e pressão) Usar cápsula de outro fabricante estraga o aparelho? Não necessariamente, mas já houve casos de cápsulas de plástico rígido (que não é furado pela agulha) derreterem dentro da máquina, com a água quente. A Nespresso informou que em caso de dano causado por cápsulas compatíveis não cobre o reparo Cápsulas fazem mal ao ambiente? É mais uma embalagem que precisa ser reciclada. A Nespresso e a Dolce Gusto têm programas de reaproveitamento Fontes: Lucas Salomão, barista da Libermac expresso, e Alexx Noga, da Kaffa Brasil | comida |
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] | Os estrelados chefs Yoshihiro Narisawa e Alex Atala prepararam um jantar a quatro mãos na capital japonesa, e realizaram o sonho de estabelecer um diálogo gastronômico entre Brasil e Japão. O evento culinário, que reuniu os importantes chefs (que compartilham sua obsessão pelo produto local e pela sustentabilidade), aconteceu nesta segunda-feira (8), na residência do embaixador do Brasil em Tóquio, como parte das comemorações dos 120 anos de relações entre os países. "É a primeira vez que cozinhamos juntos, preparando um menu em comum. Tínhamos feito coisas com mais cozinheiros em vários lugares do mundo, mas é a primeira vez que fazemos um jantar a quatro mãos", contou Atala à Agência Efe durante os preparativos. Dono do D.O.M., restaurante de São Paulo considerado o nono melhor do mundo no 50 Best, lista elaborada especialistas em gastronomia para a revista britânica "Restaurant", Atala conhece bem o Japão, onde já esteve em sete ocasiões, e confessa que é um apaixonado pela cozinha e os produtos do país. "Trouxe algumas coisas do Brasil, mas é um luxo utilizar os ingredientes daqui", disse o chef de 47 anos, conhecido por sua cozinha contemporânea com ingredientes da região amazônica. A ideia da parceria foi do fotógrafo gastronômico brasileiro Sérgio Coimbra, e a embaixada do Brasil no Japão conseguiu viabilizar o que os chefs diziam ser "um sonho". "É uma boa oportunidade para aproximar a cultura culinária do Brasil ao Japão, onde ainda não é bem conhecida. Estou aproveitando muito, é um luxo ver como Alex utiliza os ingredientes japoneses", afirmou Narisawa, de 46 anos, que fez as vezes de anfitrião e passou dias guiando o brasileiro por seus cantos gastronômicos favoritos. O japonês, dono do restaurante Les Créations de Narisawa, em Tóquio, que tem duas estrelas "Michelin" e ocupa o oitavo posto na lista dos 50 melhores restaurante do mundo da revista "Restaurant", lembra que os dois países têm uma conexão muito forte graças ao enorme fluxo migratório. "São dois países que estão muito longe. Quando é de dia no Brasil, aqui é de noite, mas há algo que nos une: o uso do produto local", disse Atala. Para esta ocasião, os dois cozinheiros decidiram esquecer um pouco seu lado mais vanguardista e experimental e apostaram em um menu mais clássico, servido para cem pessoas, com um total de oito pratos que representam a cozinha dos dois países: dourado assado com escamas, ceviche e tartare de carne pelo lado brasileiro, e sushi, tofu de sésamo e flã de leite de baiacu pela parte japonesa. "Trabalhamos e cozinhamos com muita liberdade. Talvez o principal desafio tenha sido a diferença fundamental entre a cozinha brasileira e a japonesa, a quantidade de sal. Aí tivemos que buscar um ponto em comum e uma convergência", explicou Atala. O evento gastronômico é parte da celebração dos 120 anos das relações bilaterais entre Japão e Brasil, que a embaixada do Brasil em Tóquio lembra com um amplo programa de eventos culturais desde abril de 2015 promovendo mostras de artes visuais, arquitetura, música, gastronomia, teatro e cinema. | comida |
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] | Com água tônica, com cerveja, com limão e vodca, em um copo cheio de gelo ou diretamente da garrafa (morna). A catuaba compõe cenas de mais um Carnaval. Desde meados de 2013, a bebida (nos mercados há mais de 20 anos) vem ganhando espaço nos copos de plástico. Nunca se bebeu tanta catuaba –e até o Google Trends mostra o crescente interesse por ela. Afinal, ela é doce, barata e eficiente. "Comida" convidou a sommelière e colunista de vinhos da Folha, Alexandra Corvo, a encher sua taça de duas marcas de catuaba –bebida tão popular nas festas de São Paulo que não foi fácil encontrá-la nas prateleiras dos mercados. "É fácil de beber, suculenta, docinha e acidinha. Obviamente não é um produto para ser degustado até porque no nariz você sente, essencialmente, cheiro de cocô seco, de terra seca, de mofo", disse. "Depois que a gente engole, sente os químicos. O retrogosto [aquele que fica na boca depois de beber] tem cheiro de ovo meio podre, que vem desses químicos pesados, dos sulfitos e conservantes." Bebedora de vinhos do velho e do novo mundo, Alexandra Corvo diz que a catuaba, vendida por cerca de R$ 10, tem muitos defeitos e que, certamente, causa uma bela ressaca. "A dor de cabeça, a tremedeira e aquele mal-estar do dia seguinte são causados por esse monte de conservantes." Ela explica que a quantidade de açúcares e essências faz com que a bebida seja "instável", que possa voltar a fermentar na garrafa, o que implica a adição de químicos. "Eu não tomaria. Não tanto pelo gosto, mas porque é um produto incoerente. Quer ficar bêbado? Prepare e leve para a festa um coquetel com cachaça. Invente um drinque, com vermute, açúcar mascavo, suco de maçã, e você vai chegar nesse sabor", passa a receita. | comida |
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] | Queijo Parmigiano Reggiano como forma de garantia em troca de um empréstimo de € 6 milhões. Isso é o que a cooperativa QuattroMadonne, responsável pela produção mundial de 2% de um dos itens mais típicos da culinária italiana, começou a fazer na Bolsa de Valores de Milão. O "Parmesan Bond" é uma debênture (títulos de dívidas de empresas) que usa mecanismos similares a qualquer outro utilizado para favorecer o acesso de empresas menores ao mercado de capitais. A QuattroMadonne, por exemplo, tem 40 sócios e 32 funcionários. Cotada no segmento ExtraMot da Bolsa Italiana, os títulos vencem em janeiro de 2022 e garantem um rendimento fixo anual de 5%. O reembolso do capital está previsto a partir de 2018 com extinção total no dia 27 de janeiro de 2022. E se a empresa não tiver como pagar? Os investidores receberão, claro, queijo Parmigiano Reggiano em uma quantidade correspondente a 120% do valor inicial investido. A QuattroMadonne está no mercado desde 1967 e produz cerca de 75 mil unidades de queijo por ano. Apesar de inusitada, essa não é a primeira vez que uma empresa usa desse artifício para atrair investimentos. O instituto bancário Credem, na Emília-Romana, fornece crédito recebendo como garantia tanto queijos como o famoso prosciutto de Parma. Outras empresas têm conseguido bons investimentos garantindo, além de queijo, garrafas de vinho em troca. | comida |
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] | Grandes chefs de várias nacionalidades apresentaram, na semana passada, no norte da Espanha, um novo prêmio culinário destinado a recompensar ações positivas de restaurantes na sociedade, além de seus pratos. O espanhol Joan Roca, chef do El Celler de Can Roca –eleito o melhor restaurante do mundo em 2015 no "50 Best", organizado pela revista "Restaurant"– e o peruano Gastón Acurio –do Astrid & Gastón, atual número três no "50 Best América Latina"– lançaram o prêmio na cidade de San Sebástian, conhecida por seus numerosos estabelecimentos estrelados. Os dois chefs formarão o júri do prêmio, a ser entregue pelo Centro Culinário Basco, universidade de gastronomia fundada em 2011 e contemporânea à cozinha molecular, criada por Ferran Adrià. O prêmio vai recompensar "uma iniciativa ligada a gastronomia (...) que, acima de tudo, tenha um grande compromisso com a sociedade", explicou Roca à AFP. "Essa é a chave do prêmio, que não necessariamente é ligado a alta gastronomia", acrescentou. Chefs de renome já colocam sua imagem e talento a serviço de causas sociais, como o britânico Jamie Oliver, que faz campanha por mais qualidade na alimentação nas escolas e contratou desempregados como aprendizes no restaurante Fifteen, em Londres. Acurio, por sua vez, é conhecido por ter fundado uma escola de cozinha para jovens carentes no Peru. O prêmio mundial do Centro Culinário Basco será o primeiro a reconhecer essas práticas. "A cada ano será premiado um cozinheiro que demonstre como a gastronomia pode se traduzir em uma força transformadora, afirmou Joxe Mari Aizega, diretor-geral do centro. Ele "servirá para destacar o trabalho que está sendo feito em todo o mundo: projetos vinculados a temas culturais, responsabilidade social, sustentabilidade e desenvolvimento econômico". Os chefs candidatos devem ser inscritos pela internet. O vencedor receberá € 100 mil euros para investir em um projeto que demonstre o papel positivo da gastronomia na sociedade. As inscrições estão abertas até 30 de abril. Em junho, serão selecionados 20 finalistas e o ganhador será anunciado em 11 de julho. Além de Roca e Acurio, compõem o júri os chefs Ferran Adrià, o britânico Heston Blumenthal e o francês Michel Bras, e especialistas como Hilal Elver, relator especial sobre o direito a alimentação do Alto Comissariado das Nações Unidas para os Direitos Humanos. | comida |
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] | Em nome da liberdade de criação e da luta contra o desperdício, os restaurantes britânicos decidiram limitar o número de pratos dos cardápios e até oferecer um menu único, uma fórmula que é economicamente interessante. "Nós fazemos o menu", disse Mikael Jonsson, chef do Hedone, um restaurante localizado no tranquilo bairro de Chiswick, oeste de Londres. Jonsson, um sueco de 49 anos, tomou a decisão em agosto do ano passado, depois de quatro anos de intensa observação de seus clientes. "Os clientes habituais desistiram de olhar o cardápio e pediam um menu personalizado, elaborado por mim", conta, no salão do restaurante que, desde 2012, tem uma estrela "Michelin" e desde 2013 figura na lista dos 50 melhores restaurantes do mundo, o "50 Best". "Alguns queriam uma surpresa, outros não sabiam o que pedir", conta Jonsson, que apura o gosto dos clientes quando fazem a reserva, mas não decide por eles. Do ponto de vista pessoal "é muito interessante trabalhar assim", afirma. "Cada dia é diferente", acrescenta o chef, cujo cardápio se limita a sete ou dez pratos, no máximo. Esta nova forma de trabalhar permite apostar mais em qualidade e oferecer produtos singulares. "Se não encontro o peixe que quero, posso servir um outro tipo", disse o chef sueco. "Posso também servir uma perdiz em uma mesa e uma lebre em outra porque não terei o mesmo ingrediente para todos", acrescenta, ao explicar as vantagens da nova fórmula, entre as quais está a redução de resíduos. "Nota-se a diferença, principalmente nos produtos do mar e na confeitaria, que agora podemos preparar no último momento", destaca. O restaurante Hedone reflete uma tendência cada vez mais forte, opina William Drew, diretor do "50 Best". Nela coincidem a demanda por surpresa dos comensais, em uma época em que o Instagram revela como são os pratos de um restaurante antes de se cruzar a porta, e o interesse dos chefs. "Para os comensais, a ideia consiste em viver uma experiência mais próxima de seus desejos, mas na prática isso dá maior liberdade aos chefs, principalmente com respeito a disponibilidade de ingredientes", diz Drew Essa tendência, percebida também na França e em Nova York, se limita a lugares que atraem apaixonados pela gastronomia, conta Drew. "Há que se conquistar o direito de trabalhar assim, obter uma reputação que gere confiança dos comensais no chef e sua equipe", conclui. A tendência ganha adeptos em Londres, onde surgiu a nova moda, com o restaurante especializado em sushis Araki (duas-estrelas "Michelin"), que adotou o menu único, e o Hibiscus (também duas-estrelas), que reduziu drasticamente seu cardápio, mas também se expande fora da capital britânica. O Checkers, de Montgomery, no País de Gales, decidiu oferecer entre cinco e nove pratos por dia. "Esse novo formato permite que nossa equipe controle melhor o que prepara", explica Kathryn Francis, do restaurante que tem uma estrela "Michelin". Além disso, diminui a quantidade de comida jogada no lixo em momentos em que o desperdício é cada vez mais criticado. "Os clientes querem saber se somos responsáveis", diz. Um cardápio menor também dá vantagem econômica em um ramo em que a margem de lucro é estreita. "Isso permite oferecer o melhor a nossos comensais e, ao mesmo tempo, desenvolver uma gestão mais econômica", afirma Kathryn Francis. | comida |
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] | O órgão de fiscalização do Ministério das Políticas Agrícolas, Alimentares e Florestais da Itália realizou, nesta quarta-feira (3), uma operação de busca e apreensão em estabelecimentos que vendem lotes de azeite italiano falsificado. Chamada de Mamma Mia, a ação foi coordenada pela Procuradoria da República da cidade de Trani e pela Guarda de Finanças do país e desbaratou um esquema de fraudes nas regiões da Puglia, da Calábria e da Úmbria. Ao todo, o ministério confiscou mais de 2.000 toneladas de azeite de oliva extravirgem identificado como "100% italiano", mas produzido na Espanha e na Grécia. O valor da apreensão chega a € 13 milhões. Segundo os investigadores, empresas fantasmas sediadas na Puglia e na Calábria emitiam documentos falsos para comprovar a origem italiana do óleo, que chegava aos engarrafadores como "Made in Italy". Aparentemente, estes últimos não sabiam do esquema. Oito pessoas estão sendo investigadas por fraude agroalimentar e crimes fiscais. "A operação confirma o nosso alerta sobre a multiplicação de fraudes, com azeites importados que são frequentemente misturados aos nacionais, sob a cobertura de marcas históricas, para adquirir uma aparência italiana e desfrutar disso nos mercados locais e estrangeiros", diz uma nota da Confederação Nacional dos Cultivadores Diretos. | comida |
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] | O italiano Attimo perdeu boa chance de se renovar. A saída do chef Jefferson Rueda, em 2015, poderia ter valido de impulso para uma mudança para além do cardápio. Bem, a cozinha mudou. Passou a flertar menos com o caipira, ganhou certa pompa e saiu perdendo. E os preços, que poderiam estar mais sintonizados com a tendência dos novos restaurantes (que andam fazendo o diabo para cortar custos e praticar valores camaradas), continuam altos –e agora desconectados da estatura da casa. Num passeio pelo cardápio, nota-se que o carbonara custa R$ 74 –e não vale o quanto pesa. E pesa: a massa vem em bom ponto, firme, mas a mistura de queijos é intensa demais, a combinação de pancetta, bacon e lardo (este, defumado e temperado), idem. A sensação é a de que um ingrediente mata a potência do outro –tem até queijo trufado. O dourado (R$ 79), alto e suculento, bronzeado no forno de carvão, chega à mesa encoberto por uma espuma insossa, de cogumelo e limão-siciliano. Mais valem os legumes que acompanham o peixe, viçosos e al dente. Mas a cozinha de Francisco Pinheiro tem momentos de acerto: o fusilli ganha companhia de um ragu de javali encorpado, saboroso, denso (R$ 63). Também mostra personalidade o risoto com linguiça, vinho tinto e legumes (estes, de novo se saem muito bem; R$ 79), mas o cardápio erra ao anunciar que a linguiça é feita ali. Não é. A fruta da estação até cairia bem neste calor, mas R$ 21 por uma porção? Mais elaborado, perde-se em pretensão o trio de pudins (pistache, doce de leite e Nutella), a R$ 35. No mesmo pacote, garçons confusos nas explicações ao cliente acerca do que é novo ali e sem firmeza para ajudar na escolha do vinho. A propósito, a taça pinçada de uma carta relevante, com garrafas de até R$ 4.200 (como os 375 ml do Château d'Yquem), foi servida de uma vez só, sem que o cliente provasse. Pode, Arnaldo? Attimo QUANDO: TER. A QUI., DAS 12h ÀS 15h E DAS 19h30 ÀS 23h30; SEX., DAS 12h ÀS 15h E DAS 19h30 À 0h; SÁB., DAS 12h ÀS 16h E DAS 19h30 À 0h; DOM., DAS 12h30 ÀS 17h ONDE: R. DIOGO JÁCOME, 341, V.N. Conceição; TEL. (11) 5054-9999 | comida |
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] | O Restaurante de l'Hôtel de Ville, de Crissier (Suíça) reabriu as portas nesta terça-feira (2), dois dias depois que seu chef, o franco-suíço Benoît Violier, recentemente consagrado o melhor cozinheiro do mundo pelo ranking "La Liste", se suicidou. Segundo os meios de comunicação suíços, a viúva de Violier recebeu os clientes que tinham agendado refeições no premiado restaurante, em que é necessário fazer a reserva com semanas de antecipação. "Tinha feito a reserva de uma mesa para esta terça, ao meio-dia. Me explicaram que o chef Violier gostaria que o restaurante seguisse seu curso e me perguntaram se eu viria para apoiá-los. Acredito que são todos muito valentes", opinou um cliente, citado por um meio de comunicação suíço. Violier, de 44 anos, foi encontrado morto no domingo, em sua casa, próxima de Lausanne, Suíça. Segundo a polícia, teria se suicidado com um revólver. O restaurante tinha conquistado, em dezembro, o primeiro posto no "La Liste", um ranking de 1.000 restaurantes. Filho de viticultor, Violier já tinha se consagrado o chef do ano, em 2013, na edição suíça do guia Gault&Millau. Era um caçador apaixonado e especialista no preparo desse tipo de carne. | comida |
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] | Felipe Dable, 35, aprendeu a cozinhar em casa com os pais em Porto Alegre. Ele é filho de uma chef francesa de cozinha. Débora Dable, 33, é intérprete e professora de Libras. Com uma irmã mais velha surda, ela aprendeu a língua brasileira de sinais antes mesmo de ser alfabetizada em português. Em novembro do ano passado, o casal, que se conheceu na faculdade e hoje vive em Curitiba, juntou suas habilidades na cozinha e na comunicação para lançar um canal no YouTube, no qual ensinam receitas vegetarianas em português e em Libras. Os dois começaram a postar receitas na internet em 2014, quando criaram o blog Chef Cenoura –que, mais tarde, emprestou o nome para o canal e não tinha nada a ver com Libras. "A gente não queria cair em uma rotina gastronômica, então fizemos o blog para nos obrigar a fazer um prato novo a cada semana", contou Débora, também vegetariana. Mais tarde um amigo, Lucas Costa, 26, que viria a se tornar o terceiro membro do canal, sugeriu que eles filmassem e colocassem as receitas no YouTube. A ideia só se tornou realidade depois que Débora pensou em adicionar a língua de sinais à mesa. "Além de conversar com a minha irmã, fiz uma pesquisa internacional e só encontrei um outro canal na Índia que transmitia receitas em língua de sinais. Vi que era algo que precisava ser feito, porque ninguém estava fazendo", contou ela, que diz ter sido motivada principalmente pelo lado social do projeto. Da parceria com Costa, que dirige e edita os vídeos, nasceu o canal. Por enquanto são 11 vídeos –um novo é postado toda semana– e mais de 2.000 inscritos. Há receitas de risoto, brusqueta, batatas e massas, e, enquanto Felipe fala em português, Débora transmite tudo em língua de sinais. "A Libras tem vários sinais para alimentos e dá para traduzir praticamente tudo. É raro ter algum sinal que eu não conheça", diz ela. Mas já aconteceu. No preparo de um hambúrguer vegetariano feito com grão-de-bico, ela não conseguiu encontrar um sinal para o ingrediente principal. A solução? Inventar na hora. LIBRAS Para ela, traduzir para Libras é tão automático quanto falar português. Antes de nascer, seus pais foram instruídos por um fonoaudiólogo a aprender a língua de sinais para poderem se comunicar melhor com a filha mais velha, que ficou surda quando bebê. Quando Débora nasceu, um ano e nove meses depois da irmã, todos na família usavam sinais para se comunicar. "Isso é uma das coisas que mais gosto no canal, poder mostrar um pouco da minha história e como a minha família sempre usou Libras sem esforço nenhum", diz. Ela conta que já teve retorno positivo de surdos e ouvintes (como são chamadas pessoas que não são surdas), inclusive de um casal que tem usado o canal para estudar novos sinais para poder se comunicar com sua filha surda de dois anos. CENOURA O nome do canal e do blog foi dado em homenagem ao apelido de Felipe, que ao se tornar vegetariano passou a ser chamado de "cenoura" pelo pai, como uma brincadeira (afinal, onde já se viu um gaúcho vegetariano? brinca Débora). Por enquanto, o projeto é um "trabalho voluntário" para os três integrantes, diz ela. Eles ainda não tiveram retorno financeiro, apesar de já terem fechado algumas parcerias com marcas que mandam produtos. Mesmo assim, os três se comprometeram a manter a empreitada por pelo menos um ano. "Com uma receita por semana, teremos quase um livro de receitas filmado. Acredito que é um registro que pode ser útil para um surdo em algum momento da vida", diz Débora. | comida |
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] | Nesta terça-feira (2), a Taquería La Sabrosa vai servir tamales –típicas pamonhas mexicanas salgadas– preparados pelo trio As Lourdetes, discípulas da cozinheira Lourdes Hernández que fazem jantares por encomenda. Serão quatro sabores de recheio: carne de porco com urucum e cítricos, carne de boi na ponta da faca com amêndoas, ameixa e canela, frango com mole e abobrinha com queijo e molho de espinafre. Todos vendidos a R$ 12. O prato faz parte das celebrações do Dia da Candelária –a festa religiosa cristã é comemorada, no México, em 2 de fevereiro, 40 dias depois do Natal. Segundo a tradição, quem encontrou o menino Jesus no bolo de reis em 6 de janeiro, deve oferecer tamales a amigos e familiares na festa da Candelária. O cardápio regular da Taquería também estará disponível –com as águas jamaica e tamarindo para beber (R$ 4,50). * TAMALIZA NA LA SABROSA Onde Taquería La Sabrosa, r. Augusta, 1.474, Consolação Quando terça-feira (2), das 12h às 0h Quanto R$ 12 cada tamale | comida |
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] | Desde a manhã desta segunda-feira (1o), o especialista em embutidos, Mário Portella, está a assar costelas de wagyu para servir no evento que fará no jantar de hoje no Mercado de Pinheiros, zona oeste de São Paulo. O boliviano Checho Gonzales o receberá em seu box de cozinha andina, que completou um ano recentemente e mantém filas enormes ao longo do horário de pico do almoço, para mais uma edição do Laboratório Gonzales, que realiza no happy hour. O projeto, segundo Checho, busca estimular o horário estendido do mercado, que fecha normalmente às 18h, com comida servida em sistema descontraído (compra-se ficha no caixa e come-se ali nas poucas mesas altas, no balcão, ou em pé) a bons preços, embalado por música. Serão três receitas, cujo combo sai por R$ 35, oferecidas das 19h às 23h. Para a entrada, o mineiro recupera uma receita de pão de queijo de sua avó, com base de de queijo da serra da Canastra, recheado com ragu de paleta e costela (estas assadas ao longo da noite), enriquecido com um molho roti (redução do sumo da própria carne) e shiitake (R$ 9). A estrela será a farofa de ora-pro-nóbis, cactácea tão típica de Minas Gerais com sabor que lembra espinafre, com o vegetal assado e costela de wagyu, assada por sete horas e meia –trata-se de uma raça de gado celebrada pela elevada quantidade de gordura entremeada na carne (R$ 28). Para a sobremesa, Portella toma emprestada de sua mãe a receita de uma musse de chocolate "básica", diz ele (R$ 9). LABORATÓRIO GONZALES COM MÁRIO PORTELLA Quando: 1º/2, das 19h às 23h Onde: Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros (r. Pedro Cristi, 89, Pinheiros) | comida |
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] | O guia "Michelin" premiou com sua cobiçada terceira estrela o restaurante Plaza Athenée, do chef e empresário Alain Ducasse e a retirou do Relais Bernard Loiseau, comandado pela viúva do famoso cozinheiro (que dá nome ao restaurante), morto em 2003. O manual francês do bem comer anunciou, nesta segunda (1o), em Paris, sua seleção de 2016 para a França, em meio à consternação causada pela morte, por aparente suicídio, de um dos chefs mais importantes do mundo, Benoît Violier. O corpo do cozinheiro franco-suíço foi encontrado neste domingo (31) em sua casa, na região de Lausanne, na Suíça. Segundo a polícia, ele teria usado uma arma de fogo em circunstâncias que ainda estão sendo investigadas. Durante a cerimônia do "Michelin", realizada em Paris, foi feito um minuto de silêncio em homenagem a Violier. A edição 2016 do guia concedeu também uma terceira estrela ao restaurante Le Cinq, comandado pelo chef Christian Le Squer, em Paris. Ducasse (que ganhou a terceira estrela) perdeu, no entanto, a máxima qualificação "Michelin" em outra de suas casas parisienses, a do famoso Hotel Meurice. O restaurante Le Relais Bernard Loiseau, de Saulieu na Borgonha, comandado pela viúva do chef –que se suicidou em 2003–, também perdeu a terceira estrela, que havia ganhado em 1991. "Estou consternada e muito decepcionada", disse Dominique Loiseau em um comunicado, antes de anunciar que colocará imediatamente suas mãos à obra para recuperá-la com sua equipe de cozinheiros, hoje chefiados por Patrick Bertron. Ainda que suicídios deixem sempre perguntas sem respostas, quando ocorreu a morte de Loiseau, muitos especularam que a possibilidade de a casa perder a terceira estrela poderia ser um dos motivos do suicídio. No caso de Benoît Violier, o Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville, em Crissier (Suíça), manteve suas três estrelas na versão suíça do guia, publicada em novembro. O cozinheiro acabara de ser coroado, em dezembro, como o melhor chef do mundo na nova classificação gastronômica internacional La Liste, incentivada pelo governo francês e que reúne as 1.000 melhores casas do mundo. | comida |
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] | O chef franco-suíço Benoit Violier, cujo restaurante foi classificado como o melhor do mundo pelo ranking francês "La Liste", foi encontrado morto neste domingo (31) em sua casa, em Crissier, na região oeste da Suíça. Violier tinha 44 anos e seu Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville em Crissier, já havia recebido três estrelas do guia "Michelin" antes de figurar no topo da lista francesa entre 1.000 restaurantes. Segundo a polícia suíça, há a suspeita de suicídio. O chef foi morto com um tiro. O site de notícias suíço 24 Heures disse que Violier era esperado no lançamento do novo guia "Michelin" em Paris nesta segunda (1º). Ele trabalhava no restaurante do hotel desde 1996, e, em 2012, assumiu o lugar ao lado de sua mulher, Brigitte, antes ainda de obter a cidadania suíça. O chef era também um caçador e especialista na preparação de carne de caça. Ao "The New York Times", Violier havia dito na época em que ganhou o prêmio, que sentiu "uma enorme responsabilidade" com a escolha. Segundo ele, o sucesso do restaurante, de cerca de 50 lugares, devia-se à consistência: a casa detém três estrelas do guia "Michelin" há 20 anos e seu maître, Louis Villeneuve, está no cargo há cerca de 40. Violier morreu depois de seis meses da morte de Philippe Rochat, seu mentor e predecessor no Restaurant de l'Hotel de Ville. | comida |
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] | No domingo (31), o 210 Diner servirá seu último sanduíche (e também o último prato). A casa, que funcionou por seis anos em Higienópolis, fechará as portas para passar ser "reavaliado". "O panorama mudou muito, e o Diner está precisando de uma atualização. Estamos avaliando se vamos simplificar o cardápio ou mudar o perfil da casa", disse o proprietário Enrique Blanco. O cardápio, de sanduíches como philli steak, com carne cortada na faca, cebola frita, cogumelos e emmental (R$ 32,90), e o 210 bagel, com fatias de salmão defumado, cream cheese com mostarda dijon e saladinha de ovos (R$ 32,90), vinha sendo difícil de ser mantido por causa do aumento dos preços de ingredientes (como cheddar inglês e emmental francês), afirma Blanco. "Não vamos sacrificar o produto para economizar e ter um preço competitivo", afirma. "O Diner é um restaurante, não é uma lanchonete. Uma casa que vende um hambúrguer por R$ 30 não pode ser considerada uma lanchonete." O 210 Diner já não tem mais no menu os nobres sanduíches que levavam foie gras e lagosta, dos tempos em que Benny Novak integrava a sociedade –em 2014 o chef que comanda o Ici Bistrô e o Ici Brasserie deixou a casa. "A qualidade não mudou, mesmo porque mantivemos a equipe da cozinha, com o cardápio e os preparos de antes", diz Blanco. O atendimento, no entanto, foi tema de críticas entre clientes no Facebook e no TripAdvidor. "Estamos ajustando a equipe, mas tudo funcionava", disse o proprietário. Segundo ele, não há previsão de reabertura da casa. 210 Diner Onde r. Pará, 210, Higienópolis; tel. (11) 3661-1219 | comida |
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] | Porco, esse poema, escreveu Nina Horta. "Essa obra de arte inventada por um deus guloso, uma divina construção, um clássico, um único." Eis o objeto de desejo de Jefferson Rueda, que surge explorado em açougue próprio "do focinho ao rabo" (o velho clichê) n'A Casa do Porco, há três meses no centro. Mas, ora, ora, não é clichê o aproveitamento que Rueda é capaz de fazer do bicho em apresentações sensuais, desdobrando-o em receitas diversas, que passeiam pelo mundo sem que soem repetitivas. Come-se porco do começo ao fim da refeição sem marasmo, sem mesmice. Fica explícito no cardápio de Rueda, prestes a completar 20 anos de carreira (ex-Attimo, ex-Pomodori), sua ousadia e maturidade, sua ânsia de ir ao extremo e chocar, sem perder o aconchego caipira, a referência tão afetiva à estrela da mesa, o comer com as mãos, sem frescura, o lamber os beiços. São criações como o torresmo de pancetta, com um naco suculento de carne e superfície crocante, coberto com goiabada bem cremosa (R$ 24, quatro unidades). Esta, que surpresa, traz um agridoce sui generis, com toque de pimenta e alguma acidez. Cria-se ali uma atmosfera que convida o cliente a sair da zona de conforto, confortavelmente. É provocativo o tartare de lombo de porco maturado em câmara fria por dez dias, a ponto de apurar o sabor, enriquecido com untuosa manteiga de tutano (são gotículas, mas fazem presença) e pó de cogumelo (R$ 19, quatro canapés). Uma beleza. Na sequência, o sushi de papada (R$ 29, quatro). Tirinhas de gordura besuntadas com tucupi preto, denso e ácido, são acomodadas sobre bolinho de arroz (bem japonês, de sabor suave, meio adocicado) e submetidas rapidamente ao calor do maçarico. Também soa perturbador o ceviche de pé e rabo (R$ 17). Cubinhos translúcidos (e dá-lhe colágeno!) são embebidos em suco de limão, com pimenta, cebola e coentro, como manda o figurino. Depois de vir aos pedaços, ôh-abre-alas-que-eu-quero-passar, o porco San Zé (R$ 42), estrela da casa, é assado inteiro em churrasqueira de carvão feita sob medida e, à mesa, nos faz voltar aos sabores comezinhos. O prato traz várias partes do animal, úmidas, crocantes, douradas, e até pedaços mais secos, com menos gordura. Para acompanhar, banana em cubos (com pimenta-biquinho, cebola-roxa, azeite e suco de limão), tutu de feijão e couve crua. Esta, quando a casa abriu, era temperada com azeite e o conjunto da obra ficava demasiadamente gorduroso. Hoje, leva apenas limão e sal –a acidez, apesar de diminuir a intensidade da gordura, esconde o gosto da couve. Um recorte do menu se dedica às receitas autorais de Rueda (que o perseguem ao longo da estrada –caso do porco em cinco versões (R$ 66), no qual desfila, por exemplo, o antiquado medalhão envolvido em bacon, em referência bem-humorada aos anos 1980. Também há ousadia nas sobremesas da confeiteira Saiko Izawa, de delicadeza rara. Ela explora frescor e leveza ao combinar morangos, salsão e sorbet de manjericão (R$ 22). Que fique registrado o capricho no serviço de café: pode ser coado à mesa, em copo de cristal, bem diluído e suave, ou expresso. Para este, diferentes grãos são apresentados em uma caixa de madeira, como um serviço de chá. Costuma haver edições limitadas arrematadas em leilões –mas a extração ainda está devendo: o café queima a boca e, sem crema, perde o aroma num piscar. Da janela, compra-se a porcopoca (torresmo supercrocante, feito da pele do animal; R$ 10 a porção) e o sanduíche de porco com abacate, alface, tomate e maionese de mostarda com tucupi preto para o qual tiro o meu chapéu: custa R$ 15, é fácil de comer na calçada e viaja bem. Uma aura despretensiosa ronda aquela esquina, com jeitão de bar, filas de duas, três horas e cardápio democrático –nos preços e nas porções para dividir. Aliás, pinga ou champanhe? Ambos. A espera dia e noite pode ser um convite para observar o açougue, da rua, ou, como diz Janaina Rueda, mulher de Jefferson e também à frente do Dona Onça, no Copan, para descobrir (e ocupar) o centro. * Entrou em cartaz nesta terça (25), n'A Casa do Porco, um cardápio que comemora o aniversário de São Paulo e homenageia a imigração japonesa na cidade. Da parceria de Jefferson Rueda e da confeiteira Saiko Izawa saem criações como o porco frito com nabo ralado, o cozido de barriga, cebolinha e ovo cozido e o temaki de tartare de porco, com shisô. O menu, com oito etapas mais serviço de chá (R$ 160), começa especial: vai à mesa um sifão, no qual se faz café, e, nele, prepara-se um daishi, caldo-base da culinária japonesa. Peixe seco, alga e presunto cru fazem dessa receita um carinho na alma. | comida |
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] | As palavras de ordem são "ocupe o centro". Enquanto espera para comer na badalada casa de Jefferson Rueda –que tem espera que chega a três horas ou simplesmente pelo prazer de sair por aí, explorando a cidade. Em um caso ou em outro, vale se programar para almoçar em um lugar, tomar um café em outro e aproveitar o cair da noite em um terceiro. Veja aqui bons motivos para descer na estação República (ou Santa Cecília) do metrô. BAR DA DONA ONÇA o quê receitas com dobradinha, rabada, fígado e galinha onde av. Ipiranga, 200, Lojas 27/29; tel. (11) 3257-2016 CONCEIÇÃO DISCOS o quê arroz com coração de galinha, pão de queijo e pudim onde r. Imaculada Conceição, 151, Santa Cecília; tel. (11) 3477- 4642 COSÌ o quê carnes e massas de sotaque italiano de Renato Carioni onde r. Barão de Tatuí, 302, Santa Cecília; tel. (11) 3826-5088 JAZZ B o quê jantar com jazz e almoço executivo, à la carte ou bufê onde r. General Jardim, 43, Vila Buarque; tel. (11) 3257-4290 HOLLY BURGER o quê pequena e lotada casa de caprichados hambúrgueres onde r. Doutor Cesário Mota Júnior, 527, Consolação; tel. (11) 4329-9475 LA CENTRAL o quê receitas mexicanas em um belo salão no Copan onde av. Ipiranga, 200, loja 48; tel. (11) 3214-5360 RAMONA o quê clima de bar, hambúrgueres, pratos e drinques onde av. São Luís, 282, centro; tel. (11) 3258-6385 RINCONCITO PERUANO o quê ceviches e arroz chaufa, com bons preços e espera onde r. Aurora, 451, Santa Efigênia; tel. (11) 3361 -2400 VOVÔ ALI o quê libanês com sanduíches enrolados, esfihas e pastas onde al. Barão de Limeira, 608, Campos Elíseos; tel. (11) 3331-7509 DEPOIS DO ALMOÇO BELUGA CAFÉ o quê café de grãos especiais, bolo e bom pão de queijo onde r. Doutor Cesário Mota Júnior, 379, Vila Buarque; tel. (11) 3214-5322 POR UM PUNHADO DE DÓLARES o quê café preparado em diferentes métodos e sanduíches onde r. Nestor Pestana, 115, Centro; tel. (11) 3214-5891 MANDÍBULA o quê bar moderninho, com gim-tônica e vista para a praça onde pça. Dom José Gaspar, 106, 2º andar, loja 40, Centro; tel. (11) 3129-3556 | comida |
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] | Barris dentro de uma câmara fria são conectados à mangueiras. As mangueiras passam por um furo na parede e alimentam as torneiras. Vinte torneiras de chope, todos produzidos em São Paulo. A Choperia São Paulo (já em soft opening) abre as portas oficialmente na segunda-feira (25), em Pinheiros. O bar, com 12 sócios, tem entre seus idealizadores David Michelsohn, da cervejaria Júpiter. É ele quem faz a curadoria dos chopes vendidos na casa –e quem definiu que todos seriam paulistas. "Em São Paulo temos de tudo: da Bamberg pilsen, simples, que sua tia tomaria, até a Modern Doma, mais extrema", diz Michelsohn. "As cervejarias paulistas já ganharam medalhas, prêmios internacionais, não devemos para nenhum Estado do país." Além disso, quanto menos a cerveja viaja, é melhor para ela, diz o cervejeiro. "Quando há agitação, a cerveja pode ficar turva, ela se degrada. Há outras questões: logística refrigerada é raridade no Brasil e os impostos interestaduais deixam a operação mais cara." Determinado esse "filtro", a escolha do número de torneiras (20) foi fruto de uma confluência de fatores: o espaço da câmara fria e uma boa amostra do que é feito por cervejeiros das redondezas. Manter os barris dentro da câmara faz com que se as características do chope se mantenham. "Quem gosta de cerveja, e das lupuladas [aromáticas e mais amargas], principalmente, deve priorizar o chope, a bebida local [mais fresca] e mantida em câmara fria. Melhor do que isso só na fábrica", diz Michelsohn. Os chopes são vendidos em 200 ml (de R$ 7 a R$ 17) em 290 ml (de R$ 9 a R$ 25) e 580 ml (de R$ 14 a R$ 45). Para acompanhar (já que as cervejas são as estrelas da casa), há uma tábua de charcutaria paulista (R$ 52), bolinhos de arroz (R$ 20) e de rabada (R$ 22), sanduíches, como o de filé de lombo empanado com molho tártaro e alface (R$ 29), e pratos, como o filé à parmigiana com batata rústica e arroz (R$ 31). No almoço, são servidos pê-efes, de segunda a sábado, por R$ 36. Com macarronada, picadinho, feijoada e virado à paulista, a depender do dia. CHOPERIA São Paulo Onde r. dos Pinheiros, 315, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 3360-5101 | comida |
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] | Senta que lá vem história. Na calçada, apinhada de gente, burburinho e rock dos anos 1990 -Red Hot Chili Peppers, Guns N'Roses... Espera-se uma, duas horas para provar a aconchegante especialidade do jovem Thiago Bañares, no minúsculo Tan Tan Noodle Bar, recém-aberto em Pinheiros. A massa, sem ovo, sai-se bem: é suave, firme e tem elasticidade. Mas o que dá personalidade às receitas é o caldo-base no qual é mergulhada, intenso e aveludado. (Bem, a receita, ufa, ganhou potência com os dias de funcionamento da casa.) Parte-se de um caldo de carcaça de galinha e pé de porco, que lhe empresta o colágeno. E, então, brinca-se com versões, como a tantan (R$ 30) que, além da massa e do caldo, carrega pimenta, que lhe dá força, copalombo moída (corte da nuca do porco, de sabor concentrado) e um ovo, que vale uma digressão. Este, depois de cozido e submetido a um choque térmico, descansa de um dia para o outro em uma marinada com shoyu e gengibre de forma que sua gema fica cremosa, e a clara com um sabor particular, levemente adocicado. Outros preparos, de mesma base, ganham incremento de curry (R$ 34) ou de missô (R$ 32) -este, sem graça. Bañares, que já trabalhou com Alex Atala, Paola Carosella e Julio Raw, mostra boas ideias nas entradas. Ele envolveu sobrecoxa empanada, maionese caseira, picles e uma folha de alga, que dá um toque oriental, no Egg Spong, aquele pão arredondado, bem fofinho. O resultado é gostoso, mas doce demais (R$ 24). Ele lançou ainda um tempurá de broto de chuchu (R$ 20), de sabor neutro, bem sutil, mas com uma interessante suculência, e está às voltas com uma versão de guioza, de tutano e carne de boi. Para acompanhar, os bons drinques ganham mais graça se bebericados no balcão, do qual se vê o trabalho dos cozinheiros de perto, uma delícia. Eu passo a sobremesa: a raspadinha de chá verde e leite condensado (R$ 15) tem mais gosto de gelo do que de chá, embora seja curiosa a experiência -as raspas de desfazem na boca num piscar. Tan Tan Noodle Bar QUANDO: TER. A DOM., DAS 19H ÀS 23H30 (FECHA O ÚLTIMO DOM. DO MÊS) ONDE: R. FRADIQUE COUTINHO, 153, PINHEIROS, TEL. (11) 2373-3587 | comida |
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] | O sociólogo Carlos Alberto Dória vai ministrar um curso sobre a culinária caipira e suas raízes na cozinha tupi-guarani. O primeiro módulo do curso, que será realizado neste mês, terá um total de 12 horas divididas em quatro aulas sobre a cultura culinária guarani. Nos primeiros dois encontros, os alunos, a partir de registros arqueológicos e históricos, entrarão em contato com preparos derivados, principalmente, do milho e da mandioca. Nas duas últimas aulas, as receitas serão levadas à cozinha, com a presença do cozinheiro Ivan Santinho Pinheiro, e haverá uma degustação avaliativa. O curso custa R$ 650 e será realizado em uma casa residencial no bairro Alto de Pinheiros, em São Paulo. As primeiras aulas, nos dias 28 e 29 de janeiro, serão das 20h às 23h e as últimas, nos dias 30 e 31, das 9h às 12h. Interessados devem enviar um e-mail para cadoria2@gmail.com. CURSO CULINÁRIA CAIPIRA - Módulo I Onde r. Aquiramum, 12, Alto de Pinheiros Quando 28 e 29, das 20h às 23h; 30 e 31 das 9 às 12h Mais e-mail cadoria2@gmail.com | comida |
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] | Primeiro veio a febre dos cupcakes, depois uma mistura entre croissant e donut batizada de "cronut", e agora a última moda gastronômica dos Estados Unidos é uma rosquinha banhada em ouro e champanhe pelo módico preço de US$ 100 (aproximadamente R$ 400) a unidade. Quando o chef Bjorn De La Cruz, do restaurante Manila Social Club, no Brooklyn, acrescentou ao seu menu de sobremesas essa exclusiva joia comestível, ele sabia que a invenção causaria frisson. O doce leva glacê de champanhe, um recheio cremoso de gelatina de espumante e musse, e é coberto com ouro de 24 quilates. "As pessoas dizem que isso é apenas um truque publicitário. Eu me pergunto: será que os que criticam nunca quiseram presentear alguém com algo especial?", defendeu o chef filipino, de 32 anos, em uma entrevista à revista "Forbes". Após ficar famoso depois de uma reportagem no jornal "The New York Times" no final de 2015, ele apresentou seu reluzente doce ao blog especializado "First We Feast". Desde então, é uma das sensações da internet e recebeu de reprovações a aplausos daqueles que tiveram a oportunidade de provar a iguaria. O crítico gastronômico da "New York Magazine", Adam Platt, não demorou em admitir que o donut é "surpreendentemente delicioso", embora tenha afirmado que não pagaria os US$ 100 que custa a rosquinha. "Reconheço que é um manjar interessante, mas não mandaria ninguém correndo para comprar um deles", escreveu Platt em sua resenha. O doce é vendido somente às sextas-feiras, e pode ser comprado diretamente na loja física ou pedido em casa. "Um ricaço do Texas nos pediu que enviássemos 24, mas tivemos que recusar. O donut não podia viajar de de avião", explicou, em tom bem-humorado, Bjorn De La Cruz. Mesmo assim, o chef contou que em todas as semanas o produto se esgota. É que, além de ser vendido por unidade, o donut foi alvo de tanta publicidade midiática que, entre a comunidade endinheirada e fanática por doce, já tem quem peça por dúzias. A vantagem de pedir assim é que, além de um pequeno desconto no preço final, o doce vai embalado em um papel especial. Especializada em ditar moda, a gastronomia da 'Big Apple' também se destacou recentemente por outro tipo de aposta curiosa, a wastED, um coletivo de chefs comprometidos com a ideia de reduzir o esbanjamento da rede hotelaria. Assim, pratos de alta culinária são feitos à base de produtos ignorados ou desperdiçados por outros restaurantes. Ou seja, as sobras. O grupo estimou já ter produzido 10 mil pratos utilizando centenas de ingredientes "feios" e que outros restaurantes descartariam, mas que sempre tem um "aspecto delicioso". O que está claro é que sejam os donuts cobertos de ouro e champanhe ou qualquer outro prato inovador, como lembrou o chef filipino: "Todos comemos com os olhos". | comida |
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] | O jornalista norte-americano Michael Pollan, autor de sete livros e estudioso da alimentação moderna, será tema de um novo documentário do serviço Netflix. A série, baseada em seu livro, "Cozinhar - Uma História Natural da Transformação" (2013), vai explorar, em quatro episódios, a relação dos elementos naturais (fogo, água, ar e terra, que também dão nome aos capítulos do livro) com práticas antigas e modernas de cozinha. Segundo o site Eater, no episódio "Fogo", o autor vai mostrar as técnicas de uma tribo aborígene da Austrália que faz churrasco de lagarto. Já em "Água", Pollan discutirá os problemas de alimentos processados e viajará à Índia. Em todos os episódios, o jornalista aparecerá também na cozinha de sua casa em Berkeley, na Califórnia, reiterando sua própria ideologia de que devemos voltar a cozinhar. Michael defende que, diante da indústria alimentar, cozinhar a própria comida é um ato político. A série leva o nome do diretor Alex Gibney, do documentário "Steve Jobs: The Man in the Machine", como produtor-executivo –além do próprio Pollan. A estreia está prevista para daqui a um mês, no dia 19 de fevereiro. COMA COMIDA Não é a primeira vez que uma obra de Pollan é adaptada para a televisão. O best-seller "The Botany of Desire" (a botânica do desejo), que ainda não foi traduzido para o português, inspirou um documentário homônimo de duas horas, lançado pela PBS em 2009. A emissora lançou, em dezembro do ano passado, outro documentário, "In Defense of Food" (em defesa da comida), baseado no livro de mesmo nome. A produção explora a dieta moderna ocidental, dos supermercados lotados nos Estados Unidos até as planícies da Tanzânia, e como a indústria dos alimentos vem causando danos a nossa saúde. O documentário é norteado pela pergunta "o que devemos comer?" e examina as últimas descobertas científicas sobre Ômega 3, além do princípio básico dos nutricionistas, segundo o qual é preciso diminuir as quantidades de gordura para uma alimentação mais saudável. A resposta, baseada nas pesquisas do autor, é bastante simples: "Coma comida. Não muita. Principalmente vegetais." | comida |
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] | O chef Alberto Landgraf serviu seu último prato no restaurante Epice, nos Jardins, no final do ano passado. Destacado na cena paulistana e reconhecido internacionalmente por seu trabalho, ele anunciou oficialmente, nesta segunda-feira (18), a saída do restaurante, do qual também era sócio. Com isso, a casa fecha as portas, definitivamente. "Eu precisava de um novo projeto. Nunca achei que o Epice fosse algo definitivo", disse. A decisão, insiste, teve forte motivação pessoal, do desejo de constituir uma família e ter uma rotina coerente a isso. Mas existia uma insatisfação com o restaurante. Em novembro de 2014, o Epice passou por reforma e teve seu ambiente modernizado, numa tentativa de aliviar o incômodo. A cozinha, no entanto, continuou separada do salão. "Eu quero estar mais próximo do cliente. No Epice, com a cozinha no último andar, você faz pratos sem saber para quem. Não quero mais ter um restaurante em que eu não veja o salão." "A melhor coisa do Epice foi poder viajar e conhecer pessoas e lugares que me fizeram mudar a forma de ver um restaurante. A última viagem, para o Japão [em 2015] me fez pensar sobre a conexão de quem cozinha e de quem está comendo. Um bom restaurante não tem só boa comida", diz. Sua próxima casa (que pode ser no Rio de Janeiro) terá um balcão, será menor do que o Epice e pode funcionar apenas no jantar. Mas a comida não será tão diferente. "A cozinha vem com a gente. Continuo buscando a pureza do sabor. A busca por ingrediente, que faz parte do trabalho dos chefs modernos, só faz sentido se ele for preservado ao máximo." "A grande questão é que a alta gastronomia como era, morreu. Ela mudou e eu estou tentando acompanhar essa mudança. O estilo de serviço e de ambiente têm que seguir mais o perfil de quem está trabalhando ali. Não vou pensar um projeto que seja barato, mas é preciso lidar com dois vilões: a equipe, que pode ser mais enxuta, e o alto custo do alimento." Landgraf afirma que o Epice está sentindo a crise, "como todos estão", mas que isso não foi determinante para a decisão. O restaurante, atual 26o colocado na lista dos 50 melhores da América Latina, fechou suas portas, de acordo com o sócio Bruno Ventre. "A casa era ele, a imagem era dele e a definição de fechar foi dele, que é sócio majoritário." | comida |
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] | Se existe um rótulo que Antonio Falcone, médico que se tornou líder cívico, não deseja ver aplicado a ele é o de "prefeito antipizza". Mas foi exatamente assim que o prefeito de San Vitaliano, uma cidadezinha na região de Nápoles, se tornou conhecido no final de dezembro, quando, em um esforço para combater a poluição do ar, ele promulgou uma norma que proíbe o uso de fornos a lenha que não contassem com filtros que reduzam a emissão de poluentes tóxicos. A proibição afetou também as residências equipadas com chaminés, além de empresas como padarias, restaurantes e –o aspecto mais controverso da medida– pizzarias equipadas com fornos a lenha, o orgulho gastronômico de uma área conhecida como terra natal de uma das mais renomadas exportações culinárias italianas. A indignação era inevitável. "Fomos até comparados à China", se queixou Pasquale Tufano, do Ristorante La Vigna, irritado por meia dúzia de pizzarias da cidade terem sido colocadas na berlinda e comparados a um país cuja capital, Pequim, lançou seu primeiro alerta vermelho sobre smog tóxico no mês passado. O prefeito de San Vitaliano foi atacado na mídia social. Houve protestos públicos e apelos por sua renúncia. "Tornei-me o prefeito antipizza", lamenta Falcone, acrescentando que agiu no melhor interesse da cidade. "Sou responsável pela saúde dos cidadãos desta comunidade. Tínhamos de começar em algum lugar". Na verdade, Falcone é só um entre dezenas de prefeitos italianos que adotaram medidas de emergência no mês passado, depois que uma seca prolongada levou a poluição atmosférica a exceder repetidamente os limites autorizados. Roma, que vem tentando reduzir as emissões de poluentes por automóveis a fim de limpar a atmosfera, criou um rodízio baseado em finais pares e ímpares das placas dos carros. Milão proibiu a circulação de automóveis por três dias consecutivos, sem muito efeito, e além disso, em companhia de outras cidades, proibiu queimas de fogos na véspera do Ano-Novo. A Itália é um dos piores países da Europa em termos de qualidade do ar. O norte do país é fortemente industrializado, e as fornalhas industriais não recebem manutenção adequada; os congestionamentos de trânsito não param de crescer, o uso do diesel como combustível é alto e os investimentos de infraestrutura em trens de carga e no transporte coletivo vêm sendo negligenciados há anos, afirmam ambientalistas. Com a alta nos níveis de poluição no começo do ano, prefeituras começaram a impor limites às emissões de certos poluentes, e o ministério do Meio Ambiente realizou uma conferência de emergência em Roma com representantes das regiões e municípios italianos. O grupo propôs reduzir a temperatura dos sistemas de aquecimento domiciliares e de escritórios, baixar o limite de velocidade dos automóveis, tirar de circulação os carros mais antigos, encorajar o uso do transporte coletivo e limitar o número de chaminés. Mas nenhuma dessas medidas era compulsória, e na ausência de uma estratégia nacional integrada de combate à poluição –a Itália não tem um plano para isso em vigor, no momento–, a responsabilidade recaiu sobre prefeitos como Falcone. A norma do governo local deu prazo até 29 de fevereiro para que as pizzarias e outras empresas equipassem os seus fornos com os filtros apropriados. A partir de 1° de março, os fiscais municipais começarão a verificar se a norma está sendo cumprida. "Estamos lhes dando tempo para que se preparem. É uma questão de civilidade", disse Tulliano Carpino, que comanda o departamento técnico da cidade. Que os fiscais venham, declarou Giovanni Arricchiello, proprietário do restaurante Il Cavallino, em tom de desafio. O restaurante dele fica no final de uma longa rua comercial no limite da cidade de San Vitaliano. Como outros pizzaiolos locais, Arricchiello já tem filtros contra poluição em seus fornos, e por isso a norma não vai afetá-lo. "Sem eles não se pode conseguir uma licença para operar um restaurante", ele disse sobre os filtros, mostrando uma pasta que contém uma foto do modelo de alta tecnologia que ele tem em uso, bem como os registros anuais de manutenção do restaurante. A vasta maioria das pizzarias de San Vitaliano diz que já conta com os filtros requeridos. Excetuados os fornos de pizza, Falcone diz que a principal causa de poluição atmosférica em San Vitaliano continua a ser um mistério. O tráfego é ocasionalmente intenso, mas a cidade, a apenas 25 quilômetros a nordeste de Nápoles, é bem pequena, ele diz, e não abriga grandes fábricas. Mas San Vitaliano fica ao lado de uma área de conexão rodoviária e é parte da região metropolitana de Nápoles, densamente povoada e conhecida pela incineração ilegal de lixo tóxico por grupos do crime organizado. Vincenzo Russo, o vereador que cuida de questões ambientais na cidade, afirmou que o carvão barato e tratado quimicamente usado em fornos e caldeiras talvez seja culpado. Os líderes de San Vitaliano, disse ele, também iniciaram um estudo com a Universidade Frederico 2º, de Nápoles, para determinar –entre outras causas possíveis– que impacto uma usina que converte detritos em energia localizada em Acerra, uma cidade a menos de 20 quilômetros de distância, pode estar causando. "Mas a mensagem que acabou por ganhar circulação foi a de que temos um prefeito antipizza", disse Russo. Quando Falcone convocou uma reunião com representantes das cidades vizinhas para discutir o problema da poluição, só dois funcionários de escalão médio compareceram. Os moradores locais dizem ter sido colocados na berlinda sem motivo válido, só porque San Vitaliano é a única cidade da área a ter um monitor de qualidade do ar, que entrou em operação cerca de um ano atrás. "A poluição é problema real em toda a região, mas nós temos o único monitor ativo. Por isso, fomos apanhados no fogo cruzado", disse Tuffano, cuja pizzaria, La Vigna, está equipada com filtros. Ele disse que dedicou a maior parte das duas últimas semanas a garantir aos seus clientes que a pizzaria não havia sido fechada. Tradução de PAULO MIGLIACCI | comida |
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] | "Trinta e sete!" "Trinta e sete?" "Trinta e oito!" Os funcionários do Mocotó Café tem gastado a voz chamando, em ritmo intenso, os donos das porções de dadinhos de tapioca, baião-de-dois e escondidinho. Em funcionamento há um mês no Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros, a nova casa do chef Rodrigo Oliveira tem formado uma pequena fila de clientes no corredor durante a hora do almoço. Saem das bocas do pequeno fogão, em pratos descartáveis, algumas receitas conhecidas da casa da Vila Medeiros. São exemplos do cardápio o baião-de-dois em versões simples (arroz, feijão fradinho, carne-seca, linguiça e queijo de coalho, por R$ 19) ou completa (com vinagrete de abóbora, carne de sol ou de panela e farofinha do dia, por R$ 24) e escondidinho de carne-seca (com vinagrete de abóbora e arroz, por R$ 24). Fora do horário de almoço, o visitante do mercado pode pedir os dadinhos de tapioca "originais" (R$ 16), torresminhos (R$ 14) e mocofava (R$ 13 ou R$ 16). Prepare em casa os famosos dadinhos do Mocotó. Como bom café, tem de manhã o pão na chapa, em pão artesanal, com manteiga (R$ 4) ou requeijão (R$ 5), tapioca (R$ 10, a de queijo) e uma opção bem nordestina: cuscuz com ovo mole (R$ 8). Para adoçar, pudim de tapioca com coco queimado (R$ 10) e sorvete de rapadura com calda de catuaba (R$ 9). No espaço também é possível comprar produtos do empório: farinha de mandioca, tapioca granulada, manteiga de garrafa e molhos de pimenta, por exemplo. Como na Cebicheria Gonzales (no mercado há pouco mais de um ano), os pedidos devem ser feitos no caixa e retirados no balcão. Os clientes então se espalham pelas mesas no entorno do box e no deque, até o começo da noite. Mocotó Café Onde Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros (r. Pedro Cristi, 89, box 62/63, Pinheiros; tel. 11/3031-7932) | comida |
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] | "Um ginger ale, por favor." "Ginger ale com quê?" "Ginger ale com ginger ale", pediu Norman Maine, sentado no balcão de um bar. O decadente astro de cinema, interpretado por Fredric March em "Nasce uma Estrela" (de 1937), surpreende o bartender, pois não é de seu feitio pedir bebidas sem álcool. De sabor picante e cítrico, o refrescante ginger ale acompanha bem os destilados, mas é um refrigerante de gengibre consumido (sob a indicação de mães) até por crianças com dor de barriga. Mas não no Brasil. Para provar aquele sabor picante, em São Paulo, é preciso fazer como Maine: ir a um balcão de bar. "A indústria não conseguiu atender os bares com ginger de qualidade, como nos Estados Unidos e Europa. Na falta de produto, os bartenders começaram a produzir suas próprias receitas", diz o mixologista Marco De la Roche. Por aqui, não há nas prateleiras dos mercados versões da grande indústria (em 2012 a Schweppes lançou um rótulo em edição especial, que durou um ano). Com o rótulo de "gengibirra", a empresa familiar Refrigerantes Orlando, de Piracicaba (SP), vende uma versão desde 1913. Mas, apesar de fazer menção à especiaria, o sabor é de soda limonada. "Com o tempo, fomos aumentando o limão e diminuindo o gengibre da receita. Acho que é porque o limão é mais gostoso", diz o proprietário Renato Orlando. A falta da bebida se somou às tendências da coquetelaria de resgatar receitas clássicas e de ter ingredientes (bitters, xaropes) artesanais. No laboratório que tem em Belo Horizonte, Tony Harion, da Mixing Bar, produz 200 garrafas de ginger ale por semana, que serve em eventos e fornece para bares da região. "A ginger vai bem com muitos destilados. É versátil. Para mudar o mojito, por exemplo, você pode tirar a água com gás e adicionar ginger ale", diz. Bom termômetro desse movimento é o último ranking elaborado pelo site de coquetelaria Diffordsguide com um top 100 mundial de drinques, em que o moscow mule aparece em terceiro lugar (atrás de bloody mary e margarita) e em variações como o mexican mule. Drinque mais pedido no balcão de Marcelo Serrano, da Brasserie des Arts (são 3.000 por mês), o moscow mule leva vodca, limão e ginger ale ou ginger beer. A diferença entre as duas é que ale é carbonatada (em versões caseiras, acrescentando água com gás) e a beer é fermentada, menos doce e levemente alcoólica. Segundo os mais puristas, a fermentação deve ser feita com a "ginger plant", uma colônia de bactérias que é passada de uma receita para outra -mas que pode ser substituída. "É só adicionar uma pitada de levedura para champanhe na garrafa, com presilha de metal e borracha, e esperar dois dias fora da geladeira", conta Pablo Muniz, da lanchonete Tigre Cego. A dificuldade em manter condições ideais para a fermentação em bares de alta demanda fez com que os profissionais de São Paulo optassem por servir apenas a bebida carbonatada nos bares. Mesmo assim, é possível dar complexidade ao refrigerante, segundo Spencer Amereno Jr., do Frank Bar. "Você pode ir para muitas direções, personalizar a ginger ale com ingredientes exclusivos. Eu coloco especiarias como pimenta-da-jamaica e pimenta-preta." ONDE PROVAR ASTOR ONDE r. Delfina, 163, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 3815-1364 O QUÊ Kentucky mule, com uísque bourbon, Amaro Lucano, limão e ginger ale e gin gin mule com gim, limão, hortelã e ginger ale (ambos R$ 26) BRASSERIE DES ARTS ONDE r. Padre João Manuel, 1.231, Cerqueira César; tel. (11) 3061-3326 O QUÊ Moscow mule com espuma de gengibre (R$ 29) FRANK BAR ONDE al. Campinas, 150, Jardim Paulista; tel. (11) 3145-8000 O QUÊ La mula, com tequila, limão galego, licor de laranja e ginger ale (R$ 31) e tormenta perfecta, com rum, conhaque, mel, limão-tahiti, grapefruit e ginger ale (R$ 31) ISOLA BAR ONDE shopping JK Iguatemi (av. Juscelino Kubitschek, 2.041, Vila Olímpia; tel. 11/3168-1333) O QUÊ Moscow mule, com ginger ale e espuma de gengibre (R$ 28) LE JAZZ PETIT BAR ONDE r. dos Pinheiros, 262, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 2359-8141 O QUÊ Moscow mule, com vodca, limão e ginger ale artesanal (R$ 31) TIGRE CEGO ONDE r. Girassol, 654, Vila Madalena; tel. (11) 3586-8370 O QUÊ Dark and stormy, com ginger ale e infusão de rum e especiarias chinesas (R$ 29) SUBASTOR ONDE r. Delfina, 163, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 3815-1364 O QUÊ Dark and stormy, com rum, limão, melaço de cana, ginger ale e absinthe bitter e Kentucky-tivocom uísque bourbon, Amaro Lucano, jerez e ginger ale (R$ 29 cada) TUBAÍNA BAR ONDE r. Haddock Lobo, 74, Cerqueira César; tel. (11) 3129-4930 O QUÊ Gengibirra da Refrigerantes Orlando (R$ 5,20) e Canada Dry (R$ 7,50) | comida |
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] | O queijo artesanal brasileiro vêm, pouco a pouco, ganhando força em cardápios de restaurantes em algumas cidades do país. Em tábuas, as casas podem apresentar uma boa amostra do que é produzido aqui –e, por causa da dificuldade em obter com regularidade o mesmo produto, substituir um ou outro ingrediente por aqueles que estão disponíveis na semana. Em receitas, esses queijos mostram a versatilidade de produtores e cozinheiros. No restaurante Tête à Tête, na região dos Jardins, o já popular queijo da Canastra, de Minas Gerais, se mescla com a batata em uma croqueta (um bolinho, comum na Espanha) que acompanha o filé. Bife e batata frita em uma gostosa nova roupagem. Confira aqui a receita servida no restaurante. TÊTE À TÊTE Onde r. Dr. Melo Alves, 216, Cerqueira César; tel. (11) 3796-0090 O quê No prato bife com batata (R$ 66), uma croqueta de batata feita com queijo Canastra é servida como guarnição | comida |
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] | Uma garrafa de pelo menos 120 anos de idade foi descoberta na baía de Halifax, no leste do Canadá, contendo cerveja ainda própria para consumo –anunciou nesta quinta-feira (7) o pesquisador que degustou a bebida. A garrafa, recuperada em novembro do ano passado por um mergulhador amador, foi elaborada em Halifax entre 1872 e 1890, alguns anos após o nascimento da Confederação canadense em 1867, segundo a equipe que fez o estudo. "Para determinar a idade fizemos provas da estrutura e nos baseamos no que estava no rótulo", disse à AFP o professor Andrew MacIntosh, especialista em fermentação, que dirigiu os testes com colegas da universidade de Dalhousie, em Halifax. Os exames determinaram que o pH da cerveja ainda era baixo, continha álcool e não era tóxica, explicou. Apesar de ainda ser própria para o consumo, a cerveja não tinha um gosto bom, mas era "uma oportunidade que só surge uma vez na vida", disse MacIntosh, que foi o degustador da bebida. Conforme descreveu o pesquisador, o gosto era de enxofre e o cheio de queimado. "Tinha um aroma de barris de madeira. Na boca, deixou um gosto de menta que deve vir do nitrogênio, e um sabor salgado e um pouco amargo." Análises complementares da cerveja serão enviadas para um laboratório especializado em Dalhousie, na Escócia. | comida |
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] | O restaurante São Judas Tadeu, ou Demarchi (a família de proprietários), há muito tempo era mais folclórico que gastronômico, mas sempre dono de um grande poder simbólico. Gigantesco, cresceu em paralelo com a intensa industrialização do ABC. Virou um programa "refinado" para as famílias dos que já foram os operários mais bem pagos do país, os da indústria automobilística de São Bernardo e região. Mais tarde passou também a sediar a elite política que teve ali seu nascedouro. Ao anunciar seu fechamento depois de quase 60 anos de história, seus proprietários apontam para a crise econômica como uma das causas. Não duvido que isso tenha ocorrido. Mas nas últimas décadas esta não é a primeira crise –o Brasil já passou por momentos de descontrole total da economia, e ainda de uma inflação galopante que corroía o poder de compra dos assalariados, como aqueles que são a base da economia da região. E o São Judas continuava firme, pronto a se beneficiar de uma era –os anos Lula– que nasceu justamente ali ao redor, com as greves metalúrgicas de 1979. Vinte anos depois, estando um desses metalúrgicos no poder, o país veria a emergência de um novo mercado consumidor, e setores como os serviços e a alimentação sendo irrigados por um novo sangue financeiro. Mas se o país mudou, o São Judas talvez não tenha feito o mesmo, para acompanhar o novo momento. Curiosamente, se o mesmo não ocorreu em todas as áreas da cultura, na gastronomia a era Lula correspondeu a um novo tipo de sofisticação no ramo dos restaurantes –mais no conteúdo (a cozinha) que na forma (luxo). A crescente autoestima do país incentivou a pesquisa de ingredientes nacionais (mais baratos que os importados), a procura por sabores autóctones, feitos por uma entusiasmada nova geração de chefs. Brotaram restaurantes mais informais baratos –adequados inclusive a momentos de crise– que se aproximam mais do artesanato e na cultura local. Isso é muito diferente de um modelo popularesco que mais se assemelha às gigantescas linhas de montagem da indústria automobilística. Para os novos tempos, muitos se reinventaram; o São Judas não se moveu. E acabou. Já o Mocotó, de origens tão populares quanto, e o Esquina Mocotó, vão muito bem, obrigado. | comida |
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] | Requentar comida parece um jeito ótimo de evitar o desperdício e economizar. Mas quando esse simples ato pode ser perigoso? O médico e apresentador da BBC Michael Mosley foi atrás da resposta. Depois de uma boa refeição, a gente costuma se deparar com sobras da comida, e seria uma pena jogá-las fora. Alguns desses alimentos, por incrível que pareça, podem até ser mais saudáveis após requentados. No entanto, ninguém quer correr o risco de passar por uma intoxicação alimentar. Se você já enfrentou uma, sabe do que estou falando: são comuns sintomas desagradáveis como vômito, diarreia e cólicas estomacais. Cerca de 1 milhão de pessoas sofrem com intoxicação alimentar todos os anos no Reino Unido. Em metade dos casos, o alimento que causou o problema foi preparado por elas mesmas –churrascos no verão e comidas requentadas do Natal são as principais culpadas. Cerca de cem pessoas morrem anualmente por intoxicação alimentar no país –geralmente muito novas ou muito idosas. Mas então, qual é a regra? Como e quando é seguro requentar sua comida? Perigo no frango A intoxicação é geralmente causada por uma bactéria que contamina sua comida. A maior culpada é uma chamada Campylobacter (ou bactéria retorcida). De acordo com a agência de segurança alimentar (Food Standars Agency), ela está presente em mais de 65% dos frangos à venda no Reino Unido. Essa bactéria pode sobreviver algumas horas em superfícies da cozinha e se espalha facilmente. É por isso que não é uma boa ideia lavar o frango antes de cozinhá-lo: o melhor é colocá-lo direto no forno após temperá-lo –e lavar bem as mãos depois disso. A chave para matar bactérias é usar o calor. Por isso, cozinhar totalmente o frango (sem deixar partes cruas) é fundamental. Espere esfriar Agora falando em casos gerais: o que fazer quando sobrou um pouco da sua deliciosa refeição? Primeiro de tudo, você precisa esperar ela esfriar antes de colocá-la na geladeira. Colocar comida quente no refrigerador faz com que sua temperatura interna aumente, criando assim uma incubadora perfeita para bactérias e afins. Já fiz testes e a temperatura da minha geladeira chegou a aumentar em mais de 5 graus. Então, cubra o recipiente da comida, espere que ela chegue em temperatura ambiente (mas não deixe mais de quatro horas sem refrigeração) e só então coloque na geladeira. Quantas vezes posso requentar a mesma comida? A agência britânica recomenda que se requente uma refeição apenas uma vez. Porém, a verdade é que é seguro fazer isso várias vezes, desde que a comida tenha sido colocada no refrigerador conforme explicado acima. Mas tenha em mente que o sabor do prato não vai melhorar a cada reaquecimento. Outro segredo é requentar totalmente sua comida. Nós costumamos fazer isso no micro-ondas, o que pode ser um problema. Isso porque ele esquenta a comida de maneira desigual, deixando áreas frias, onde as bactérias podem prosperar. Assim é importante que, ao usar o micro-ondas, você retire o alimento no meio do processo, dê uma boa mexida e depois coloque para esquentar novamente. Arroz indefeso? Talvez não No caso do arroz, a coisa pode ser mais complexa. Isso porque ele pode ser contaminado por uma bactéria chamada Bacillus cereus. A bactéria em si é morta com o calor, mas alguns esporos produzidos por ela não são apenas tóxicos, como também extremamente resistentes a altas temperaturas. E isso pode causar o que conhecemos como "síndrome do arroz frito", batizada com esse nome porque antigamente era comum as pessoas ficarem doentes depois de comerem em bufês de comida chinesa, onde o prato era deixado em temperatura ambiente por várias horas. Atualmente, os padrões de higiene nesses restaurantes melhoraram bastante. Apesar desse temor, é seguro requentar o arroz. Eu mesmo costumo usar sobras de arroz do dia anterior para fazer um "stir fry" (método que envolve fritura rápida em fogo alto em um panelão tipo wok). Mas não deixe o arroz fora da geladeira durante a noite. Assim como a carne, é preciso deixá-lo refrigerado o quanto antes –sempre deixando esfriar antes de colocá-lo na geladeira. Quais os pratos mais arriscados? As comidas que são frequentemente requentadas e que a agência britânica lista como potencialmente perigosas são: | comida |
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] | Quinto melhor restaurante do mundo no ranking da revista britânica "Restaurant" e dono de três estrelas no "Michelin", o Eleven Madison Park, localizado em Nova York, nos Estados Unidos, está mudando a forma como serve seus menus. Em uma entrevista ao site Eater, o chef Daniel Humm e o sócio Will Guidara (responsável pelo serviço) afirmaram que, até o fim de janeiro, pretendem diminuir o número de fases em suas refeições para que os clientes possam se lembrar de tudo o que provaram. O novo método foi inspirado no clássico restaurante italiano Rao's, no Harlem. No novo formato, os comensais terão mais escolhas sobre o que será servido, e o jantar terá menos fases –cerca de sete, comparado aos 14 atuais. Alguns deles serão em estilo família, e a refeição será um pouco mais curta. Humm e Guidara disseram que o formato longo do menu foi um sucesso, mas o novo estilo representa melhor seus gostos atuais e suas atitudes quanto ao serviço. Humm afirmou ao Eater que um prato monocromático recentemente introduzido –raiz de salsão braseada na bexiga de porco– o ajudou a repensar o menu. "Foi com ele que eu pensei ter libertado alguma coisa". Alguns desses novos pratos serão maiores que os então servidos pelo EMP. "Nós queremos que, no fim, a pessoa se lembre de todos os pratos." Os chefs vão interagir com os convidados menos do que fazem agora. Assim como no Rao's, no começo da refeição, os clientes vão dizer o que querem comer, e o menu será servido com base nesses pedidos. "Não é sobre nós servindo o que achamos que você deve comer", explica Guidara. A nova versão do Eleven Madison Park vai estrear no dia 19 de janeiro. | comida |
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] | O Dia de Reis é comemorado nesta quarta-feira (6) e faz parte da tradição cristã servir um bolo ou uma rosca com frutas cristalizadas em homenagem aos Três Reis Magos. O bolo, que pode ser feito em formato de coroa, representaria os presentes oferecidos por Gaspar, Melchior e Balthazar, os Reis Magos, ao menino Jesus quando foram conhecê-lo em Belém. Cada cultura tem a sua receita do doce e lembra a data segundo seus hábitos religiosos. Em alguns países, como a Espanha, o Dia de Reis é mais festejado que o Natal. No Brasil, o costume manda desmontar a árvore de Natal neste dia. Há ainda uma brincadeira antiga que pode ser feita junto com o bolo: esconder no meio da massa uma fava, algum objeto pequeno ou mesmo uma imagem –de plástico ou porcelana– do menino Jesus. Quem encontra a prenda é declarado o "Rei da festa" e tem a promessa de um ótimo ano. Veja receitas para fazer em casa, a maioria tem grau de dificuldade médio e leva uma hora ou mais para preparar: Bolo de receitas da chef Daniela Meneghini, do Marie et Marie Receita fácil da doceria Douce France Rosca de Reis Bolo de Reis que rende dez porções Versão mais fácil do que a receita clássica | comida |
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] | Com uma explosão no crescimento da indústria de cerveja artesanal na última década nos Estados Unidos, não basta ter paixão por fermentação e por cerveja quando se trata de começar um novo negócio em um cenário competitivo. Reconhecendo isso, algumas universidades norte-americanas estão oferecendo cursos sobre como gerir uma cervejaria artesanal. Na última década, o número de cervejarias artesanais cresceu de 1.400 em 2005 para mais de 4.000 nos EUA, de acordo com a Associação de Cervejeiros do país. Segundo Gregory Dunkling, diretor do novo programa on-line certificado da Universidade de Vermont sobre negócios em cervejarias artesanais, muitos desses estabelecimentos começaram há cinco ou dez anos com foco em cerveja. "Na época, um cervejeiro caseiro talvez fosse capaz de criar ótimas receitas, mas não tinha o jeito para negócios, então, ao longo do caminho, tinha que contratar gente para marketing, vendas e gestão", disse. É mais difícil fazer isso hoje em dia. Conforme a indústria ganha em competitividade, o padrão subiu para aqueles que abrem uma cervejaria ou trabalham em uma, disse Bart Watson, economista chefe na Associação de Cervejeiros. "Certamente a demanda por pessoas com um alto nível de conhecimento em cervejaria subiu e isso no lado dos negócios também. Eu acho que nós estamos vendo uma variedade de cursos que buscam maneiras de capitalizar isso", disse. A universidade estadual de Portland, em Oregon, começou um curso on-line sobre negócios de cervejarias artesanais em 2013, cuja turma lotou na primeira semana, com cerca de 40 pessoas. Ele se tornou um dos programas com certificado profissional de maior sucesso da faculdade, atraindo pessoas de todo o mundo, disse Scott Gallagher, diretor de comunicação da universidade. "Nós descobrimos que há uma enorme quantidade de pessoas que querem um certificado. Elas não necessariamente querem fazer faculdade ou já têm um diploma e querem abrir uma cervejaria", disse Gallagher. "Elas precisam de alguns conhecimentos básicos e outros avançados, como em marketing." Segundo Gallagher, a demanda é tão alta que a Universidade de Portland está buscando novas formas de desenvolver e ampliar o curso. "A verdade é que não é só fazer e beber cerveja. Há muito do mundo dos negócios por trás e, normalmente, é isso que está faltando", afirmou. Uma universidade em San Diego também têm cursos de gestão de negócios de cervejarias artesanais. As aulas acontecem em cervejarias locais e na própria universidade. Até agora, o programa da Universidade de Vermont, Estado que ficou famoso por suas cervejas artesanais, atraiu interessados do Arizona, Flórida, Georgia, Oregon e Texas, de acordo com Dunkling. O programa custa cerca de US$ 4.400 (R$ 17.700) para os dois cursos: um sobre os fundamentos da cerveja artesanal e o segundo com foco escolhido pelo estudante, em marketing digital, vendas ou gestão de negócios. Membros do ramo concordam que é necessário maior conhecimento na indústria e que há diferentes meios de conseguir isso, seja por experiência, contratação de talentos ou treinamentos, o que algumas cervejarias fazem. Como investidores de fora e marcas de cerveja maiores constantemente se envolvem na feitura da bebida, a Harpoon Brewery, que vai oferecer oficinas para estudantes, sente a necessidade de manter sua independência. "Contratar pessoas talentosas é uma parte crítica desse esforço", disse por e-mail Rich Ackerman, diretor de recursos humanos da Harpoon. Mas a companhia não aconselha pensar uma cervejaria artesanal puramente como um negócio. "É um projeto que exige paixão antes de tudo", afirmou. | comida |
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] | Uma pitada de Instagram, uma dose de Facebook e uma porção de Twitter, essa é a receita de uma nova rede social dedicada exclusivamente ao mundo da gastronomia. Nela, alguns dos usuários são cozinheiros profissionais e chefs, e as fotos são de pratos deslumbrantes –melhor não entrar se estiver com fome. A ChefsTalk se pretende uma comunidade para que chefs e foodies (interessados por gastronomia) possam interagir curtindo e comentando fotos (com filtros e efeitos), mandando mensagens por chat, seguindo outros usuários e usando hashtags –daí a mistura das maiores redes sociais. O usuário pode se registrar no aplicativo, disponível gratuitamente para os sistemas operacionais iOS e Android, como foodie, chef ou produtor. O feed é atualizado com as fotos e galerias dos usuários que você segue. As imagens de pratos, que mais parecem obras de arte, dão água na boca. A ChefsTalk não é a única rede social onde se pode comer com os olhos. Lançado em 2009, o Foodspotting mostra fotos de pratos e onde encontrá-los em diferentes cidades do mundo –no Brasil, ele reúne endereços de São Paulo e Rio de Janeiro. O usuário pode buscar um tipo de comida específico, como cupcake, batatas fritas ou sushi, e compartilhar seus pratos preferidos. Para quem estiver apenas procurando belas fotos de comidas, o Instagram é um prato cheio. O tema "comida" é um dos mais populares na rede social, que reúne contas para todos os paladares: doces, salgados, alta gastronomia, alimentos saudáveis e gordices. Há ainda quem faça arte com ingredientes, como a fotógrafa norte-americana Brittany Wright que organiza vários alimentos em degradês coloridos. | comida |
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] | Não há nada mais triste do que jogar fora os últimos goles de espumante sem borbulhas depois do Réveillon. Não faça isso. Se você se esqueceu de guardar as sobras da bebida na geladeira, incorpore os restos de espumante em alguns pratos fáceis de preparar e comece 2015 com uma explosão de criatividade na cozinha. Você pode ficar tranquilo em saber que os pontos altos da folia de seu feriado não foram desperdiçados. Espumantes perdem suas borbulhas em velocidades diferentes, por causa de vários fatores, mas, quanto mais quente o ambiente, mais rapidamente ele libera as bolhas de dióxido de carbono e fica sem gás. Como eles possuem quantidades variadas de carbono em suas garrafas, cabe a você determinar que ele está sem borbulhas –e, a partir daí, há um bando de opções para salvar o sabor. Sem as borbulhas, o espumante perde toda a sua atraente efervescência e fica com um gosto esquisito para ser bebido sozinho, mas continua sendo um complemento versátil para vários pratos. A bebida dá corpo a marinadas, contraste para caldas de frutas, uma nuance para seu risoto favorito e adoça sopas. Na verdade, qualquer receita que leve vinho branco fica gostosa com uma dose de espumante –só cuidado para não ficar doce demais. Mesmo se tiver uma garrafa com rolha largada na geladeira por uma semana, você pode usar o restinho para dar uma grande e ambiciosa levantada em pratos cotidianos, como um risoto. Tudo o que é necessário para dar parte do sabor da bebida a uma receita é cerca de um quarto ou metade de uma xícara da bebida. Veja sete pratos para experimentar com seu espumante ou champanhe "velho". * Ingredientes - 4 xícaras de caldo de galinha - 1/4 de xícara de chalota (ou cebola) picada - 2 colheres (sopa) de manteiga - 2 xícaras de arroz arbóreo - 1/4 de xícara de espumante - 1 colher (sopa) de manteiga sem sal - 1 limão - 1/4 de xícara de queijo parmesão (opcional) - 230 g de carne fresca de caranguejo - folhas de hortelã despedaçadas - flocos de pimenta malagueta Modo de preparo - Em uma panela, adicione 4 xícaras de caldo de frango e deixe esquentando - Em outra panela, doure as chalotas com duas colheres de manteiga até elas ficarem translúcidas. Adicione o arroz arbóreo e o espumante, mexendo constantemente. Quando o líquido tiver evaporado, comece a adicionar o caldo de frango quente até o arroz ficar no ponto - Quando todo o caldo estiver incorporado ao arroz, adicione uma colher de manteiga e o suco e raspas do limão - Adicione o parmesão, se desejar - Antes de servir, adicione os pedaços de carne de caranguejo. Adorne com a pimenta e as folhas de menta * Ingredientes - 1 xícara de espumante - 1/3 de xícara de açúcar - 1/2 xícara de água - 1 limão - 2 colheres (sopa) de suco de limão - 1 palito de canela Modo de preparo - Em uma panela, adicione o espumante, o açúcar e a água. Misture com raspas do limão e o suco - Adicione a canela e deixe ferver - Reduza a temperatura e deixe cozinhar em fogo brando, mexendo sempre, por cerca de 5 minutos ou até o açúcar dissolver - Tire do fogo e deixe esfriar por meia hora - Sirva com frutas ou como cobertura de bolo * Ingredientes - 1 cebola picada - 1 colher (sopa) de azeite de oliva - 1 colher (chá) de sal - 1/2 colher (chá) de raspas de limão - 1 dente de alho picado - 1 filé de linguado - tomate picado a gosto - salsinha a gosto - 1/4 de xícara de espumante Modo de preparo - Em uma panela, refogue a cebola com o azeite. Adicione o sal, as raspas do limão e o alho picado - Coloque o peixe sobre as cebolas - Adicione o tomate picado e salsinha em cima do peixe e despeje o espumante - Embrulhe tudo em papel alumínio e deixe cozinhar em fogo médio por 8 a 10 minutos * Ingredientes - 1/2 xícara de azeite de oliva extravirgem - 1/4 de xícara de espumante - 1/4 de xícara de vinagre de vinho branco - sal a gosto - pimenta a gosto - açúcar Modo de preparo - Misture o azeite, o espumante e o vinagre - Adicione uma pitada de açúcar - Adicione o sal e a pimenta * Ingredientes - 8 fatias de pão italiano - 4 ovos grandes - 1/4 de xícara de espumante - 5 colheres (sopa) de manteiga - 1 colher (chá) de essência de baunilha - 2 xícaras de açúcar - 3 xícaras de leite - açúcar e canela a gosto Modo de preparo - Misture o açúcar e o leite com o espumante - Passe as fatias de pão por essa mistura, até que fiquem encharcados - Em uma frigideira, aqueça a manteiga. Passe os pães pelo ovo batido e coloque-os na manteiga, deixando até dourar dos dois lados - Antes de servir, polvilhe com açúcar e canela. * Ingredientes - 1/4 de xícara de espumante - 1/3 de xícara de azeite de oliva - 1/2 colher de mostarda seca - 1/2 colher (sopa) de manjericão seco - 1/4 de colher (sopa) de tomilho - sal a gosto - pimenta a gosto Modo de preparo - Misture o espumante ao azeite - Adicione a mostarda, o manjericão, o tomilho e uma pitada de sal e pimenta - Use para marinar por ao menos duas horas um peixe a ser grelhado * Ingredientes - 4 xícaras de caldo de legumes - 5 peras descascadas e picadas - 1 limão - 1 xícara de espumante - sal e pimenta a gosto Modo de preparo - Em uma panela, ferva o caldo de legumes com as peras - Adicione o suco e as raspas do limão e o espumante - Cozinhe até as peras ficarem macias, cerca de 10 minutos - Bata com cuidado a sopa e o caldo no liquidificador até ficar consistente - Adicione o sal e a pimenta | comida |
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] | Uma sorveteria da cidade italiana de Alassio, na província de Savona, anunciou o lançamento, nesta segunda-feira (28), de um novo sabor de gelato –um tanto quanto polêmico. Dedicado ao pai do reggae, Bob Marley, o sorvete do estabelecimento Perlecò conta com sementes de maconha e o sugestivo nome Marley. A iniciativa nasceu graças à colaboração com a Canapa Ligure, associação que promove os benefícios da droga à saúde física e mental. "É bom e faz bem", afirmam os produtores do sabor, que deve começar a ser comercializado ainda neste final de ano. "Trata-se de um sorvete com sementes de cânhamo [provenientes da espécie cannabis sativa] sem casca, muito bom e com todas as propriedades benéficas da planta, existentes principalmente pela alta presença de ácidos graxos poli-insaturados que ajudam a combater e prevenir distúrbios entre os quais arteriosclerose, distúrbios cardiovasculares, colesterol, artrose, doenças do sistema respiratório, eczemas e acnes", explicam os responsáveis pelo sabor. | comida |
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] | Quinto produtor mundial de cacau, o Brasil estava ausente do mercado de chocolates de alta qualidade até pouco tempo atrás. Mas um grupo de pioneiros luta por um lugar neste saboroso universo, com barras de cacau puro, aromatizadas com café ou recheadas com frutas amazônicas. A empresa Mendoá, localizada no sul de Salvador, por exemplo, ficou entre os 50 "melhores chocolates do mundo", no último Salão de Paris. "Temos que deixar de unicamente exportar matéria-prima. Somos capazes de vender um produto final de alta qualidade", assegura Rodrigo Aquim, presidente da empresa que leva seu sobrenome. O tablete que desembala com orgulho, gravado com estampas assimétricas, fez o gosto da rainha da Inglaterra e da família imperial do Japão. O sabor de seu produto evolui de acordo com as "colheitas": notas frutadas para o 75% produzido em 2014 ou mais intensas para o de 2015. "Todo o cacau da barra vem de uma só parcela da plantação. Portanto, a quantidade de chuva ou de sol do ano influencia no gosto do chocolate", explica Alessandro Michelon, representante da marca. EVOLUÇÃO DO GOSTO Michelon mostra as fotos da produção: primeiro a sombra de uma selva tropical, sob a qual crescem os pés de cacau. Logo, os barris de aço inoxidável onde se fermentam os frutos, cobertos ainda por polpa, antes de secarem no sol da Bahia. Imortalizada na obra de Jorge Amado, a produção brasileira de cacau é uma das mais importantes do mundo –e cerca de 90% dela é exportado. As 780.000 toneladas de chocolate nacional, no entanto, são quase totalmente devoradas no país. A maioria dos brasileiros prefere o chocolate com leite, açucarado e aromatizado. Um quadrado bem negro, com 80% de cacau, pode provocar caretas. "O paladar dos consumidores brasileiros evolui lentamente. Mas com o aumento do poder de compra, sobretudo, eles se voltam a produtos gourmet, como vinhos e queijos... E o chocolate de alta qualidade", destaca Caio Tomazelli, da Abicab (Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Chocolates, Cacau, Amendoim, Balas e Derivados). COMPETIR COM A SUÍÇA A fabricação de chocolates "premium" é ainda modesta. Acumulando algumas pequenas marcas, como Amma e Montanhês, e cadeias de lojas como Kopenhagen ou Cacao Show, alcança a 7% da produção nacional. Mas os produtos de alta qualidade ganham compradores a cada ano, enquanto as vendas de chocolate internacional caem no país. Segundo a Abicab, o Brasil –terceiro produtor mundial de chocolate e quarto consumidor mundial– possui os ingredientes para competir um dia com a Suíça ou a Bélgica. "Produzimos todas as matérias-primas no nosso território: o cacau, o açúcar e o leite. Começamos a dominar as tecnologias e a formar chefs em nossas escolas de gastronomia", disse Caio Tomazelli. "Quando uma criança sonha com um chocolate, deve sonhar com uma selva tropical, não com uma vaca nas montanhas suíças", disse sorrindo Rodrigo Aquim, que exporta sobretudo para a Grã Bretanha e Portugal. O exercício segue sendo arriscado. Com suas 12 toneladas de produção anual, o ramo "chocolate" da empresa familiar acaba de obter equilíbrio em suas contas, depois de sete anos em atividade no Brasil. | comida |
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] | Com a hora do brinde de Ano-Novo chegando, a Folha reuniu um time de barmen de São Paulo para estender os votos de renovação às bebidas servidas na festa. Especialistas como Spencer Amereno Jr., do Frank Bar, Fabio La Pietra, do SubAstor, e Marcelo Serrano, da Brasserie des Arts, sugerem drinques que podem ser feitos sem complicação ou ingredientes difíceis de encontrar, de acordo com as tendências que chegaram –ou chegarão em breve– a seus bares. Estão em alta, por exemplo, os coquetéis "low alcohol", de teor alcoólico reduzido, e os ponches, receitas geralmente com frutas, servidas em grandes tigelas –uma boa pedida para as festas com muitos convidados. Para os mais tradicionalistas, o espumante, bebida símbolo das comemorações de final de ano, também está garantido na seleção dos mixologistas convidados. Prepare o gelo e comemore. Bons brindes! ESPUMANTE Tradicionais em comemorações, os espumantes são ótimos para coquetéis. É possível usar todos os tipos -champanhes, proseccos, cavas e as versões nacionais. Em bares, segundo Fabio La Pietra, barman do SubAstor, é mais comum usar os bruts, mais secos e de sabor mais neutro. Há que se ficar atento ao balanceamento de ingredientes para a bebida não ficar, por exemplo, muito adocicada. Para combinar, prefira destilados claros não envelhecidos, como brandies (conhaques), e sucos de frutas, especialmente as cítricas. Veja a receita do french 75 PONCHES "A imagem dos filmes americanos, de bebida de baixa qualidade servida em bowls, é ultrapassada", diz Kennedy Nascimento, do Riviera e da Z Carniceria. Segundo ele, essas misturas para serem compartilhadas dominavam livros antigos de coquetelaria; surgiram nos tempos do império britânico, feitas com chá, açúcar, especiarias, frutas e rum (ou brandy). No preparo, misture antes os destilados, licores e xaropes; só ao servir adicione as ervas e bebidas com gás. Brinque com especiarias, cítricos e cascas, ervas e frutas desidratadas. Um grande bloco de gelo –em vez de cubos– retarda a diluição Veja a receita do gin punch BOURBON O bourbon é um uísque com no mínimo 51% de milho, em geral feito no Kentucky (EUA), que tem aromas de baunilha, caramelo e carvalho. Com rótulos chegando em maior número e variedade ao Brasil, coquetéis com a bebida ganharam força. Ao contrário do que pode parecer, esses drinques não são só para quem gosta de uísque. "O sabor pode ser mais marcante, com um bourbon mais envelhecido, mas também bem refrescante", diz Talita Simões, bartender do Side. A bebida vai bem com frutas vermelhas (amora e morangos) ou cítricas, como abacaxi e suco de limão Veja a receita do agente 86 'LOW ALCOHOL' Tendência principalmente nos EUA, os drinques que levam menos álcool "estão ligados ao consumo responsável e são uma maneira de apreciar a coquetelaria sem exageros", explica Spencer Amereno Jr., à frente do Frank Bar. São coquetéis como o Isidor Rickey, com 16% de teor alcoólico –bebidas clássicas como o old fashioned podem chegar a 30%. Menores proporções de álcool podem ajudar na melhor percepção de sabores. Amereno sugere famílias de coquetéis mais leves, como buck (com ginger beer), collins (água com gás e limão-siciliano) e rickey (água com gás e limão-taiti); espumantes também são bons aliados Veja a receita do Isidor Rickey FRUTAS BRASILEIRAS Elas rendem ótimos coquetéis, mas nem sempre vão parar nas cartas de bares. "É difícil encontrar referências desses ingredientes", diz Marcelo Serrano, à frente da Brasserie des Arts. Dicas: em geral, com a fruta fresca, é preciso fazer um suco e coá-lo; polpas de boa qualidade podem ser substitutas. Frutas azedinhas, como cupuaçu, seriguela e cajá, caem bem, mas devem ser combinadas a elementos doces. Outras boas combinações são caju com gengibre, maracujá com morango e pitanga com pimenta. Entre os destilados, gim, vodca e rum branco são opções para não errar Veja a receita do pitangueiras ONDE BEBER BRASSERIE DES ARTS Onde r. Padre João Manuel, 1.231, Jardim Paulista; tel. (11) 3061-3326 FRANK Onde al. Campinas, 150, Hotel Maksoud Plaza, Bela Vista; tel. (11) 3145-8000 RIVIERA BAR Onde av. Paulista, 2.584, Bela Vista; tel. (11) 3258-1268 SIDE Onde r. Tabapuã, 830, Itaim Bibi; tel. (11) 3168-0311 SUBASTOR Onde r. Delfina, 163, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 3815-1364 Z CARNICERIA Onde av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 724, Pinheiros; tel. (11) 2936-0934 | comida |
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] | A Career Education Corporation, empresa que administra mais de 50 campi de diferentes universidades nos Estados Unidos, anunciou que vai fechar as 16 unidades da Le Cordon Bleu que mantém no país. O instituto francês é uma das mais reconhecidas escolas de culinária do mundo, com unidades em 16 países –nenhuma outra será afetada pela decisão da companhia americana. Nos EUA, a Le Cordon Bleu é conhecida por ter sido a "alma mater" da escritora e apresentadora de TV Julia Child –ela estudou na unidade de Paris durante sua estadia na França. A decisão da Career Education Corporation, segundo a agência Associated Press, está ligada a uma nova regulamentação federal sobre faculdades ligadas a empresas. A administração Obama cortou repasses para esse tipo de instituição. As unidades americanas da Le Cordon Bleu vão aceitar novos estudantes até o próximo dia 4 de janeiro e permitir apenas que as pessoas já matriculadas concluam seus cursos. Até setembro de 2017, as escolas –em cidades como Atlanta, Austin, Boston, Chicago, Las Vegas, Miami, Orlando e San Francisco– serão fechadas. | comida |
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] | O chef palestino Johnny Goric já cozinhou para o presidente Barack Obama e foi jurado da versão local do "MasterChef", reality show culinário. Em julho, lançou seu primeiro livro de receitas –mas, em vez de publicar em sua língua materna, o árabe, ou em inglês, ele estreou no mercado editorial em hebraico. Seu livro destaca algo inesperado em relação ao crescente grupo de chefs palestinos e israelenses de origem árabe, que tem saído das sombras da agitada cena gastronômica local com novos restaurantes, livros e escolas: seus melhores clientes são, em sua maioria, israelenses. Nas últimas duas décadas, a cozinha de Israel floresceu na cena internacional. No ano passado, a revista sobre comida e vinhos "Saveur" nomeou Tel Aviv um destino gastronômico extraordinário. A edição local do "MasterChef" é muito popular entre israelenses e um reality show local, "Game of Chefs", ganhou recentemente uma versão na TV alemã. Ainda que se baseie nos mesmos ingredientes locais, a cozinha palestina recebeu muito menos atenção global –até agora. Na semana passada, duas dúzias de chefs árabes e um punhado de colegas judeus desembarcaram na cidade portuária de Haifa para quatro dias de celebração à cozinha árabe. O festival foi criado pela chef árabe israelense Nof Atamna-Ismaeel, que foi aclamada nacionalmente quando ganhou a versão local do "MasterChef" em 2014 –e que regularmente aparece em programas de TV do país. No festival de Haifa, multidões de curiosos vagaram pela cozinha de um restaurante enquanto o chef-celebridade judeu Meir Adoni preparava pratos com húmus ao lado do restaurateur de origem árabe Hussam Abbas. "Judeus e árabes podem e devem aprender sobre as tradições culinárias de um e de outro", disse Atamna-Ismaeel, que quer fazer do festival um piloto para uma escola de cozinha que pretende abrir em sua cidade natal, Baqa al-Gharbiya, no norte de Israel. Cerca de um quinto da população de Israel é árabe. Esses cidadãos têm direitos iguais, mas enfrentam certa discriminação em relação a verbas de governo, emprego e habitação. As taxas de pobreza são maiores entre os árabes do que na população judia do país. Por anos, o descompasso de rende reprimiu a cena gourmet. Nos anos recentes, cidadãos árabes alcançaram novos patamares em áreas como música, artes, esportes, jornalismo –e gastronomia. Um grande desafio para os chefs árabes tem sido superar as baixas expectativas dos clientes israelenses, segundo Abbas, dono da El Babur, rede de três restaurantes no norte de Israel. Ele diz que, quando abriu sua primeira casa, em 1979, os comensais só queriam "húmus, batata frita e salada". Agora, eles têm abraçado o uso de ingredientes locais como rúcula, espinafre selvagem, aspargos e endívia. Chefs árabes mais jovens têm mudado o patamar, abrindo restaurantes de tapas na cidade de Acre e revisitando antigas receitas sírias em Haifa. Ainda assim, o clima político permanece um desafio para essa nova geração de chefs. O festival foi organizado durante uma onda de três meses de violência. Desde o meio de setembro, palestinos mataram 19 israelenses em tiroteios, ataques a faca e com carros. Ao menos 109 palestinos morreram por ataques israelenses no mesmo período; 73 deles eram, segundo Israel, agressores. Abbas diz que seus restaurantes sofreram grandes perdas, na medida em que clientes judeus hesitam em entrar em cidades árabes para jantar. Ao mesmo tempo, as portas que têm sido abertas a israelenses árabes permanecem fechadas, em sua maioria, aos palestinos da Cisjordânia e da Faixa de Gaza, largamente excluídas dos clientes israelenses, com as restrições impostas a viagens a essas regiões. Não há uma rede de TV palestina especializada em comida. Uma revista dedicada à cozinha palestina foi lançada em Ramala em 2012, mas acabou meses depois; o "MasterChef" palestino foi encerrado depois de uma temporada, por falta de patrocínio. Uma rara exceção ao anonimato da comida palestina foi "The Gaza Kitchen" (a cozinha de Gaza), livro de receitas publicado em 2013, via financiamento coletivo, para celebrar os pratos desse enclave costeiro. Peter Nasir, dono de um restaurante em Ramala, na Cisjordânia, diz que seus clientes palestinos relutam em "apostar" seus limitados ganhos em pratos novos e geralmente pedem por clássicos "old-fashioned", como o frango à Cordon Bleu. "Israelenses são mais abertos a provar coisas novas. Aqui você coloca romãs na salada e as pessoas começam a pirar", afirma. Ele diz que não tem pressa em colaborar com colegas israelenses, "que em algum momento podem vestir um uniforme e apontar uma arma para você". No festival gastronômico de Haifa, as relações calorosas entre chefs árabes e judeus ofereceu uma rara luz em um período sombrio na região. O chef israelense Meir Adoni, que tem raízes no Marrocos, serviu um rico cozido de cordeiro, frango e alcachofras de Jerusalém sobre um cremoso húmus. "A assinatura que você tem nos meus pratos é a mistura dessas duas influências: uma, os pratos da minha avó judia; a segunda, a influência dos árabes", diz ele, acrescentando que, enquanto os jovens chefs árabes agora perseguem a cozinha molecular, os judeus estão vasculhando as raízes da cozinha palestina. O palestino Goric serviu, no festival, sua especialidade, shishbarak da cidade síria de Aleppo –delicados bolinhos cozidos de carne fritos e servidos com iogurte de leite de cabra temperado com hortelã e alho e finalizado com raspas de limão. Em setembro, ele abriu uma escola de culinária em Ramala e tem grandes ambições para a região. "Minha visão é elevar o nível de hospitalidade", disse. "É como estar em uma caixa. Precisamos sair dela e descobrir artes culinárias". | comida |
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] | Esqueça o dinamarquês Noma, o espanhol El Celler de Can Roca, o italiano Osteria Francescana e até o paulistano D.O.M. Vem da Suíça, de uma pequena cidade próxima a Lausanne, o mais novo melhor restaurante do mundo. No sábado (12), os organizadores do prêmio "Mil mesas de exceção", guia criado pela França em oposição ao ranking de 50 melhores restaurantes da revista britânica "Restaurant", divulgaram o top 10 de sua primeira edição. Ficou com o restaurante do Hôtel de Ville de Crissier o primeiro lugar. A casa é comandada, desde 2012, pelo chef franco-suíço Benoît Violier, 44, em parceria com sua mulher, Brigitte. Ao jornal americano "The New York Times", ele disse que sentiu "uma enorme responsabilidade" com o prêmio. Segundo ele, o sucesso do restaurante, de cerca de 50 lugares, deve-se à consistência: a casa detém três estrelas do guia "Michelin" há 20 anos e seu maître, Louis Villeneuve, está no cargo há cerca de 40. Os menus podem custar até 390 francos suíços (R$ 1.530) TOP 10 A lista das "Mil mesas de exceção" é uma iniciativa da Atout France, instituição de diplomacia e promoção turística da França. Com custo estimado em € 300 mil (R$ 1,2 milhão), bancado por patrocinadores como a Nestlé e a Moët Hennessy, o ranking foi feito por um sistema de computador que analisou e compilou dados de cerca de 200 guias gastronômicos (como "Michelin", "Gault&Millau" e "Zagat"), sites colaborativos a exemplo do TripAdvisor, avaliações de críticos gastronômicos e mesmo listas como a da "Restaurant" –englobando um universo de 92 países. Entre os mil restaurantes selecionados, os países mais representados devem ser Japão (mais de 120 locais), França (117) e Estados Unidos (115). A lista final será divulgada em uma cerimônia na próxima quinta-feira (17), em Paris –por enquanto, só se conhece o top 10, divulgado no último sábado, no qual se confirmou o favoritismo de Japão e França; cada país teve três casas no topo do ranking. Destacam-se ainda a presença de casas que estão na lista da "Restaurant", como o Per Se, de Nova York (EUA), no segundo lugar, e o Celler de Can Roca, na Espanha (6o). Veja abaixo o top 10. | comida |
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] | A célebre marca de champanhe francês Taittinger anunciou nesta semana que comprou terras no sul da Inglaterra para produzir vinho espumante, se beneficiando do aquecimento do clima britânico. A Taittinger comprou um terreno de 69 hectares em Kent, um condado do sudeste da Inglaterra, em que plantará vinhas de uvas chardonnay, pinot noir e pinot meunier para produzir o espumante inglês. O produto não pode ser chamado "champanhe", porque a denominação se resume ao produto da região francesa de mesmo nome. "Nosso objetivo é fazer um verdadeiro produto de excelência em um clima britânico cada vez mais moderado, sem compará-lo ao champanhe ou qualquer outro espumante", explicou Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, presidente da bodega. O vinho levará a marca Domaine Evremond, em homenagem a Charles de Saint-Evremond (1614-1703), poeta e sibarita francês que popularizou o champanhe na corte do rei Carlos 2 da Inglaterra. | comida |
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] | "Queremos demonstrar que entendemos tudo isso", depois de conhecer a guerra, durante a infância, vários jovens croatas integram um grupo de ajuda a imigrantes a refazer a vida através dos prazeres da cozinha. Em um local da periferia de Zagreb, um nigeriano, um etíope e um croata trabalham com uma massa de farinha e casca de laranja. Os três são cozinheiros e preparam pães que lhes recordam seus respectivos países. Pertencem a "Okus Doma" ("sabor de casa"), um grupo que ajuda migrantes a refazer a vida e a fazer amigos na Croácia, cozinhando e trocando receitas. "Instalar-se em um novo país é difícil", explica David Ajobi, um nigeriano de 34 anos, vindo de Abuja, enquanto manipula a massa para fazer o pão "agege", diante de uma mesa cheia de vasilhas e rolos de macarrão, seguindo a receita ensinada por sua mãe. A ideia surgiu em uma das conversas entre voluntários croatas e requerentes de asilo, que passavam horas falando de cozinha nos cafés de Zagreb. "Todos conhecemos a experiência do conflito, e as ondas de refugiados, queremos demonstrar que entendemos tudo isso", disse Emina Buzinkic, uma das idealizadoras do projeto, referindo-se à guerra na Croácia entre 1991 e 1995. Desde metade de setembro, centenas de milhares de migrantes transitam pela Croácia, fugindo de conflitos e da pobreza no Oriente Médio, Ásia e África, a caminho de países da Europa central e do norte. Alguns decidiram ficar na Croácia, onde "Okus Doma" os acolhe, sejam quais forem as razões pelas que chegaram ao país, recentemente integrado na União Europeia. O grupo foi criado muito antes da atual crise migratória, em 2006, e reúne pessoas e receitas de todo o mundo, da Síria, Afeganistão e Iraque e também Zimbábue e Argélia. SONHOS CULINÁRIOS O projeto busca também aproximar a população do pequeno país (de 4,3 milhões de habitantes, de maioria branca e católica), a outras culturas. Na Croácia, "as instituições são muito tradicionalistas e não muito abertas (...) a população não está acostumada a ver pessoas com outra cor de pele", afirma Emina Buzinkic, de 31 anos. Cozinhar pratos com os refugiados e outros recém-chegados "nos aproxima deles", destaca Emina. "Nos damos conta de que são pessoas, com seus medos e suas vidas. É um intercâmbio muito importante". "Uma palestina, de nome Sara", recorda, "me falou de uma torta que sua avó preparava, e me disse que era a lembrança mais forte de sua infância". "Nunca voltou a prová-la e tinha a sensação de ter perdido suas raízes." Sara seguiu para a Europa ocidental, mas a conversa, entre outras, inspirou a criação de Okus Doma. Um dos cozinheiros do centro, na ladeira da montanha que domina a capital croata, é o senegalês Sadou Diagne, de 25 anos. Ele vive na Croácia há pouco mais de um ano. O refugiado prefere não contar porque deixou seu país. "É uma coisa que realmente quero esquecer", disse. No entanto, recorda com muito gosto o dia em que cozinhou pela primeira vez um dos grandes clássicos do Senegal, um prato a base de peixe e arroz, com molho de tomate e especiarias. Trocar receitas de outras regiões do mundo "tem sido um prazer", e uma forma de refazer a vida em Zagreb, conta. "Agora tenho uma nova família e novas experiências", assegura. | comida |
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] | Helena ia à igreja aos domingos com os avós, conservava certa inquietude sobre a vida e anotava toda sorte de pensamentos e imagens em um diário -eis a menina chorando lágrimas de gelatina. Ganhou um dinheiro fazendo bolo de maçã, limpou peixes, descascou batatas. Daniel fritava croquetes na infância, fora expulso da escola e de uns tantos jogos de futebol. Na cozinha, aprendeu disciplina, lavou louça, descascou cebolas. Não atrasa. E é de poucas palavras. As histórias individuais da gaúcha Helena Rizzo e do catalão Daniel Redondo estão reunidas em "Maní", a ser lançado na semana que vem pela editora DBA, com textos da jornalista Milly Lacombe, integrados com trechos de diários e grafites de Helena. Mas o livro é, acima de tudo, uma história de amor (que virou casamento, encerrado no ano passado). Trata de um "terceiro elemento", "uma espécie de chef-combinado" que alia a "técnica dele e a capacidade criativa dela", "um chef metade homem, metade mulher". Sai dessa narrativa, portanto, um registro do nascer e do amadurecer de um dos restaurantes mais celebrados do Brasil e, para além do Maní, um registro de uma cozinha que representa um símbolo para a gastronomia do país -pela delicadeza, pela inovação, pela precisão, pela valorização dos elementos brasileiros e seus produtores. Soam mais preciosos os textos de introdução, que ajudam a tornar claro e transparente o trabalho que se faz no Maní (e o porquê de sua projeção dentro e fora do país), do que as receitas ali contidas, geralmente fora do alcance do leigo. Muito embora sejam úteis para levar o leitor às entranhas do processo criativo de Helena e Daniel, da exploração da técnica, do uso de ingredientes nacionais. Verbetes esclarecem ainda que produtos são esses e de onde eles vêm. Bem, a cozinha brasileira surge no Maní como veículo de expressão, de paisagens, de emoções e ilusões, nas palavras de Joan Roca, considerado um dos melhores chefs do mundo, à frente do espanhol El Celler de Can Roca, onde Rizzo e Redondo se conheceram. Alex Atala ressalta a simplicidade e a ausência de excessos das receitas, nas quais, para o jornalista Luiz Américo Camargo, texturas e surpresas visuais sempre estiveram subordinadas ao sabor. SABOR, PRODUTO Os relatos deixam explícita a busca pelo sabor e por ingredientes nacionais, muitas vezes orgânicos, vindos de sistemas autossustentáveis. Caso do leite, dos ovos, das frutas e dos grãos fornecidos pela fazenda do sócio Pedro Paulo Diniz, na qual "o resíduo das aves aduba a pastagem das vacas, o esterco das vacas produz biofertilizantes que adubam fruteiras e os resíduos industriais das casas e dos jardins viram compostos que retornam à horta, ao pomar e à plantação de grãos". A ideia do capítulo "Fornecedores", inclusive, é boa: celebrar e dar visibilidade a pequenos produtores parceiros do restaurante. (E tem um apelo artístico: cria-se uma narrativa visual, por meio de fotos poéticas e intensas, que perdem força na impressão, em papel esverdeado.) É como se o leitor pudesse estar mais próximo do expressivo nhoque de mandioquinha e tucupi ao saber que a araruta usada em seu preparo, "um amido cultivado por índios brasileiros há 7.000 anos", vem de um sítio do interior da Bahia. O passeio pelas histórias dessas terras e personagens, no entanto, soa breve e pouco aprofundado. Não se sabe, por exemplo, o que é cultivado na propriedade de seu Zé, um pernambucano que mantém uma espécie de laboratório em Paraty (RJ), onde não existe relógio, luz elétrica, nem cama de hóspedes. E, bem, afora algumas imprecisões (Helena passou três ou seis meses no El Celler, afinal? O livro fala desses dois períodos) e alguns clichês que empobrecem a narrativa, tais quais "aprendiz de feiticeira", "pontapé inicial", "surfar na onda", eis uma obra que há de ajudar a contar a história da moderna cozinha brasileira. Maní AUTORA: MILLY LACOMBE EDITORA: DBA QUANTO: R$ 180 (302 PÁGINAS) LANÇAMENTO: 16/12, ÀS 19H, NA LIVRARIA CULTURA DO SHOPPING IGUATEMI (AV. BRIG. FARIA LIMA, 2.232) | comida |
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] | O chef André Mifano (ex-Vito) participará de uma viagem, do dia 20 ao 23 de janeiro, para a Patagônia chilena, onde vai cozinhar no hotel The Singular Patagonia, na cidade de Puerto Bories. Mifano vai preparar um jantar especial unindo ingredientes brasileiros, como feijão e embutidos, a ingredientes típicos da Patagônia. A viagem, organizada pela agência de rotas gastronômicas Gouté, terá uma expedição em busca de produtos locais com o chef Pato Luhuede, que tem um restaurante na região. O pacote custa a partir de US$ 2.145 (R$ 8.266), incluindo hospedagem. As vagas são limitadas para dez pessoas. PATAGÔNIA, COM O CHEF ANDRE MIFANO Quando 20 a 23 de janeiro Mais inscrições em dezembro pela Gouté (goute.com.br ) | comida |
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] | Você é louco por leite e cereais? Então, existe um estabelecimento feito para você em Londres. O "Cereal Killer Café", aberto há cerca de dez meses em Brick Lane, está fazendo tanto sucesso que os donos decidiram inaugurar mais uma unidade em Camden Town. Com ambiente inspirado nos anos 1980, o restaurante tem até um acervo. Cerca de 120 caixas de cereal estão expostas nas paredes e a atmosfera, composta de bancos e mesas de madeira, leva o visitante de volta para a infância. É possível encontrar de tudo no local: misturas improváveis que fazem sucesso em qualquer lugar do mundo, opções para quem não se preocupa com a grande quantidade de açúcares do alimento e também para aqueles que não podem ingerir glúten. Grande parte dos produtos vêm dos Estados Unidos e da Grã-Bretanha, mas há ainda opções da Austrália, Espanha, Israel, África do Sul e Nova Zelândia. O preço inicial da tigela é de 3 libras (cerca de R$ 17) e serve-se as porções como em um sistema de bufê. Depois de escolher o tipo de cereal, joga-se uma das 30 variedades de leite –que vai do tradicional até aqueles saborizados, com menta e coco, canela, chocolate branco e caramelo. Depois é só escolher os acompanhamentos: torradinhas à francesa misturadas com coco, chocolate, morango, mel –para falar dos mais clássicos– até doces picantes, com receita indiana, ou caramelos norte-americanos. Ao todo, são mais de 20 tipos diferentes de acompanhamentos. Se preferir, há modelos prontos como o "Trife Up Your Life" (flocos de arroz, geleia, creme, morangos, bolinhas de açúcar, creme de leite) ou o "Peanut Butter Jelly Time" (manteiga de amendoim, amendoim triturado, cookies de amendoim com chocolate, morangos, chantili) que custam menos de 5 libras esterlinas (menos de R$ 29). Para quem quiser, há ainda a possibilidade de comprar um clássico chá londrino ou um café para acompanhar o pedido. A visita não é para quem está de dieta, mas sim para quem quer ganhar uma energia extra durante o dia. Isso porque o "Cereal Killer" não está aberto apenas no café da manhã, mas também no almoço e jantar. Os donos lançaram ainda um livro especializado nos mais variados tipos de flocos que compõem um dos cafés da manhã mais tradicionais do mundo. | comida |
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] | A artista plástica e "food designer" Simone Mattar falará, no Centro de Pesquisa e Formação do Sesc, sobre gastronomia e design na quarta-feira (16), às 19h30. Ela apresentará o conceito de "gastroperfomance", com base em suas pesquisas e trabalho artístico, entre eles o "Como Penso Como", um misto de jantar e exposição que unia gastronomia, história e design. As inscrições para o evento –só há 30 vagas– pode ser feita pelo site do Sesc ou nas unidades. O ingresso custa R$ 30. Gastroperformance: uma proposta transdisciplinar Quando quarta-feira (16), das 19h30 às 21h30 Onde Centro de Pesquisa e Formação do Sesc, r. Dr. Plínio Barreto, 285 (4º andar), Bela Vista (tel.: 11 3254-5600) Quanto R$ 30 (inteira) Mais inscrições pelo site sescsp.org.br/cpf ou nas unidades do Sesc | comida |
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] | Um minúsculo estabelecimento de lamen em Tóquio entrou, nesta terça-feira (1) ao clube dos melhores restaurantes do mundo, ao obter uma estrela no guia "Michelin". A "bíblia" da gastronomia outorgou assim, pela primeira vez, a distinção a um restaurante de lamen, o Tsuta, com capacidade para nove comensais. O lamen –um caldo com macarrão, é uma das receitas mais típicas do Japão, onde as pequenas casas que o servem podem ser encontradas quase a cada esquina. Sua popularidade quebrou fronteiras nos últimos anos, com novos restaurantes em Hong Kong e Nova York. O Tsuta, que vende as tigelas de lamen por valores entre US$ 7 e US$ 9,75 (R$ 27 e 37) no bairro de Sugamo, no norte de Tóquio, propõe, entre outros pratos, o lamen com porco assado ao tempero de alecrim, caldo de soja e cogumelos. "O mais importante é que os clientes gostem do nosso lamen", afirmou Takatoshi Itami, um dos cozinheiros. "Temos boas críticas graças a eles [os clientes]. Ter uma estrela não é nossa prioridade", acrescentou. A nova edição do guia de Tóquio, lançada nesta semana, contém uma lista de 27 estabelecimentos de lamen na capital, classificados no Bib Gourmand, de casas com bom custo-benefício. No guia, 13 restaurantes foram classificados com a honraria máxima, de três estrelas, 51 com duas estrelas e 153 com apenas uma, o que faz da capital nipônica a cidade com mais estrelas "Mchelin" do mundo. | comida |
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] | O panetone, doce mais tradicional da época natalina, agora pode ser preparado no conforto de casa. Graças ao kit "faça você mesmo" chamado "Il Mio Panettone ("O Meu Panetone", em português), será possível apresentar orgulhosamente na ceia de Natal uma versão caseira de 1 kg da sobremesa, sem conservantes e por um preço mais baixo. A ideia é da empresa familiar italiana Molino Gatti, que produz farinha de trigo desde 1959. "Com este produto inventivo, queremos estimular os consumidores para sempre ficarem mais atentos a uma alimentação correta e para terem vontade de colocar a mão na massa e preparar algo que estamos acostumados a encontrar já pronto", diz o dono da marca, Massimiliano Gatti. Além de fazer sucesso na Itália, o panetone "faça você mesmo" também ganhou espaço no exterior, em países como Estados Unidos, China, Canadá, Suécia e França. | comida |
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] | As berinjelas são tortas e um pouco compridas demais, contorcidas o suficiente para perder um hipotético concurso de beleza contra similares mais redondas ou mais simétricas. No terreno onde foram cultivadas ou nos supermercados para onde foram destinadas, elas teriam sido provavelmente descartadas. Não porque não sejam comestíveis –simplesmente porque não alcançam um padrão estético. Mas a noção de que a comida de verdade tem curvas pode ser tão atraente como uma campanha publicitária subversiva sobre a beleza das mulheres. "Nós achamos que é realmente fácil convencer as pessoas quando elas percebem que podem pagar menos para obter o mesmo tipo de sabor e saúde", disse Ron Clark, diretor de abastecimento da Imperfect Produce (produto imperfeito), uma start-up da Área da Baía de San Francisco que vem vendendo o que chamam de frutas e legumes "cosmeticamente contestados" durante os últimos seis meses. "Uma vez que uma pessoa se convence, não demora muito para que converta outras." A Imperfect Produce entrega caixas de frutas e legumes feios nas portas de moradores da Área da Baía. Uma caixa grande com produtos mistos –entre 8 e 10 kg de frutas e legumes, com cinco a oito tipos de itens, dependendo do que for típico da estação– custa US$ 18 (aproximadamente R$ 67,50), por exemplo; uma pequena caixa de frutas (de 4,5 kg a 7 kg) custa US$ 12 (cerca de R$ 45) por semana. Clark conta, principalmente, com a compra dos produtos diretamente de agricultores da Califórnia e complementa seu estoque com o que consegue encontrar em mercados de vendas por atacado em Oakland. Na San Francisco obcecada por comida, e em suas cidades vizinhas, a empresa vem difundindo sua atividade em grande parte baseando-se em campanhas atrevidas nas redes sociais: a imagem de uma pimenta com uma forma particularmente curiosa é acompanhada pela mensagem: "Morda-me". Um tomate particularmente bulboso leva a etiqueta "Minhas curvas fazem bem para você", e um limão anormalmente grande representa "mais para amar". Em algumas regiões da Área da Baía, onde compras em mercados de agricultores são a norma e um apreciado tomate a US$ 10 dificilmente chegue a impressionar, a noção de que o alimento pode ser ligeiramente desbotado ou ter uma forma estranha não parece implicar uma venda difícil. Mas para Clark e seus colegas não foi fácil convencer os principais supermercados de que seus produtos deveriam estar expostos nos corredores. "Há uma mudança envolvida nisso, e que muitos consumidores ainda não estão dispostos a fazer", disse Clark. "Nós nos acostumamos a ter produtos uniformes por décadas, então não é algo que vá mudar da noite para o dia." Raley, uma rede de supermercados com base no norte da Califórnia, vendeu pimentas, peras e maçãs da Imperfect durante alguns meses deste ano, com preços aproximadamente 40% menores do que seus similares de aparência mais tradicional. Mas depois de anunciar o programa piloto com muita difusão, a rede abandonou o negócio agora. Representantes da loja não quiseram fazer comentários a respeito para este artigo. Jordan Figueiredo, especialista em resíduos sólidos da vizinha Castro Valley, começou este ano uma campanha nas redes sociais para promover produtos feios. Todos os dias, ele envia imagens -cenouras grudadas uma à outra, maçãs com amplos vãos, qualquer coisa de aparência estranha que haja estimulado sua imaginação. Deu início a um abaixo-assinado em que pede que as redes Wal-Mart e Whole Foods se comprometam a adquirir alimentos feios, mas nenhuma das redes aderiu à petição ainda. "Existe um problema real de se o que nasceu primeiro foi o ovo ou a galinha, porque os varejistas dizem que não vendem esses produtos porque as pessoas não os compram, e as pessoas dizem que querem comprá-los, mas que os varejistas não os vendem", disse Jonathan Bloom, que escreveu "American Wasteland" (terra norte-americana do desperdício), em que investiga por que tanta comida é desperdiçada nos Estados Unidos. De 1974 a 2006, a quantidade de alimentos desperdiçados pelos norte-americanos aumentou em 50%, disse ele, e acrescentou que os produtos feios foram a "porta de entrada" para problemas maiores e mais complicados relacionados ao desperdício de alimentos em geral. "A maioria das pessoas realmente não vê elementos estranhos como algo melhor, muito pelo contrário", disse Bloom. "Há ainda uma noção profunda, visceral, de que as coisas que parecem perfeitas não vão fazer mal para nós." A Imperfect Produce é apenas uma das maneiras que empreendedores e ambientalistas utilizam para combater o desperdício de alimentos, que é cada vez mais visto como uma espécie de epidemia. Em Boston, o ex-presidente da Trader Joe abriu um mercado e uma loja de comida pronta que vende alimentos embalados com a data de vencimento passada, mas que ainda são seguros (e saborosos) o suficiente para consumo. A comida no mercado, chamado Daily Table (mesa diária), também inclui produtos que foram colhidos em campos e pomares locais. Na Imperfect Produce, Ben Simon, diretor executivo, e Ben Chesler, chefe de operações, começaram a trabalhar com o desperdício de alimentos ainda como estudantes universitários, quando viram bandejas de comida das lanchonetes do campus sendo jogadas fora todas as noites. Chesler e Simon criaram a Food Recovery Network (rede de recuperação de alimentos), que agora conta com mais de 100 faculdades que doam alimentos não consumidos para sopões. "Ouvíamos falar o tempo todo sobre a quantidade de comida que era desperdiçada, mesmo no campo", disse Chesler. "Vemos isso como uma forma de que mais pessoas comam alimentos mais saudáveis." Os dois conheceram Clark, que havia trabalhado por mais de uma década na canalização de produtos, que teriam ido para o lixo, para bancos de alimentos em toda a Califórnia. A partir do uso das relações que tinham com os fornecedores, os três criaram um negócio que chamou a atenção de muitos dos luminares da tecnologia na região, incluindo a empresa de design Ideo, que recebe sua própria encomenda a cada semana. Na semana anterior ao Dia de Ação de Graças, a caixa de produtos da Imperfect incluía abacates, nabos, romãs, batatas-doces, abobrinhas e caquis hachiya. "Eles oferecem uma maneira extravagante de entender como são irracionais as especificações dos produtos que consumimos massivamente", disse Bloom. "Qualquer pessoa com um quintal pode compreender que os alimentos crescem de forma engraçada e dinâmica -a noção de que isso seja uniforme é uma falácia total." | comida |
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] | Neste domingo (29), o restaurante Le Repas Bistrot vai realizar um festival gastronômico com música ao vivo. Para comemorar a chegada do chef Thiago Cerqueira Lima na casa, ele e a chef Fernanda Barros servirão steak tartare com batatas rústicas (R$ 20), espetinhos de polvo com mini batatas e aioli de pimentão (R$ 20) e hambúrguer Le Repas (com queijo gruyère e picles caseiro, R$ 20). Para sobremesa, tartelettes de maçã e brigadeiros com farofa de paçoca, ambos por R$ 5. Os drinques serão do bartender Laércio Zulu e vão custar R$ 15 –as taças de vinho promocionais saem pelo mesmo preço. O evento, que vai das 16h às 22h, contará com a participação das bandas Les Serges –inspiradas em Serge Gainsbourg–, às 17h30, e Suites, às 20h30. CHANSONS ET REPAS Quando domingo (29), das 16h às 22h Onde r. Ferreira de Araújo, 450, Pinheiros, tel.: (11) 2366 9882 Quanto de R$ 5 a R$ 20 | comida |
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] | Conta a história que o quarto conde de Sandwich, John Montagu (1718-1792), estava sempre tão ocupado com jogos de cartas que trocava o jantar por um pedaço de carne entre dois pães. O conde não foi criador do sanduíche, mas emprestou seu nome à popular receita –que, por definição, tem duas fatias de pão e um ou mais ingredientes em pedaços ou fatias no recheio. O livro "Sanduíches Especiais - Receitas Clássicas e Contemporâneas", lançado nesta semana, reúne informações sobre a origem do sanduíche, fala sobre o cenário atual, dá dicas, apresenta regras básicas e ensina preparos tradicionais e criativos, com molhos e acompanhamentos. Os autores, Vinícius Capovilla (chef da Federação Australiana de Futebol e pesquisador do restaurante Brasil a Gosto), Eduardo Mandel (sócio do restaurante Obá e da Taquería La Sabrosa) e Felipe Vianna (coordenador na área de gastronomia do Senac) defendem no livro que a ordem dos fatores, nessa receita, altera o produto. Por exemplo, o queijo deve ficar sobre a carne pois "o sabor da carne é aguçado pelo sal e pela textura do queijo" e o tomate deve ficar entre o alface e a carne porque "se colocarmos o hambúrguer em contato com a alface, em poucos segundos ela estará murcha pelo efeito do calor do hambúrguer". No capítulo específico sobre receitas brasileiras, os autores dão o passo a passo e contam histórias sobre o bauru, beirute à milanesa, churrasquinho com vinagrete, sanduíche de pernil, de mortadela e o buraco quente (confira aqui a receita do sanduíche com recheio de carne moída). Há ainda capítulo com receitas "gringas", hambúrgueres, molhos e acompanhamentos. Veja dicas para o preparo de um sanduíche: - Tente sempre derreter o queijo sobre algum outro ingrediente para facilitar a manipulação (se a receita tiver carne, derreta sobre ela); - Impermeabilize o pão com algum item gorduroso, como manteiga ou maionese; - Sirva molhos à parte para evitar que o pão fique encharcado; - Saladas picadas perdem água com mais facilidade, ficam murchas e umedecem o sanduíche; Sanduíches Especiais - Receitas Clássicas e Contemporâneas Autores Vinícius Martini Capovilla, Eduardo Mandel e Felipe Soave Vianna Editora Senac São Paulo Quanto R$ 84,90 (168 págs.) | comida |
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] | Neste ano, ganhou força um estilo de restaurante de inspiração brasileira e bons preços. "Uma solução inteligente para a crise", diz o colunista da Folha Josimar Melo, que lança na segunda-feira (30) o "Guia Josimar 2016", com 629 restaurantes e 155 bares e cafés. Melo ressalta casas como Jiquitaia, Micaela, Bona, Bossa e Alma, que ajudaram a consolidar uma vertente de lugares "despojados que usam ingredientes locais, de forma tradicional ou criativa". Na edição deste ano, os três-estrelas permanecem os mesmos (D.O.M., Fasano, Maní e Vecchio Torino) e duas casas ganharam uma segunda estrela (Tête à Tête e Kaá). A primeira, com cozinha comandada por Gabriel Mateuzzi e Guilherme Vinha, teve um "crescimento rápido". "O cardápio contemporâneo é econômico e concentra talento com certa despretensão." Josimar considera o caso do Kaa "mais previsível", graças à entrada de Laurent Suaudeau, em julho. "É gritante a perícia técnica do chef." GUIA JOSIMAR 2016 Autor Josimar Melo Editora DBA Quanto R$ 35 (240 págs.) Lançamento 30/11, às 19h, no Badebec (r. Jerônimo da Veiga, 248, Itaim Bibi) | comida |
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] | Os donos de vinhedos em Bordeaux se planejam para aumentar o número de cachos de uvas por videiras, atrasar o ciclo vegetativo e introduzir novas variedades para enfrentar o aquecimento global sem perder qualidade nos vinhos. O calor e a aridez que marcaram a colheita de 2015 e que devem prevalecer nas próximas "não preocupam hoje os viticultores porque as vindimas mais precoces são um fator de qualidade", explica o presidente do Comitê Interprofissional do Vinho de Bordeaux, Bernand Farges. Mas no futuro, as variedades de uvas mais precoces, como a merlot tinta, terão dificuldades. A produção do extenso vinhedo de Bordeaux se compõe de cerca de 80% de tintas e 20% de brancas. A variedade merlot é a mais cultivada (50% das videiras), muito mais do que a cabernet sauvignon (23%). "Em 20 ou 30 anos, a merlot poderia amadurecer em agosto, o que prejudicaria a qualidade dos vinhos", afirma Kees van Leeuwen, pesquisador e professor da Escola Nacional Superior de Ciências Agrônomas de Bordeaux. Os vinhos poderiam então "carecer de frescor, com uma graduação alcoólica muito alta", diz. Para combater esses efeitos é preciso atrasar o ciclo vegetativo da videira merlot, para que amadureça lentamente em meio ao frescor das noites de princípio de outono. Aumentar o número de cachos por videira ou proteger as uvas do sol tirando menos folhas da planta são medidas realizáveis a curto prazo para atrasar o ciclo vegetativo. A médio prazo, a ideia é propor aos viticultores novos porta-enxertos (a parte enterrada do pé, que serve de suporte à haste), mais tardios e resistentes à seca, mas também incentivá-los a aumentar a proporção de videiras tardias entre as que se cultivam em Bordeaux. O cabernet sauvignon, uma "variedade que responde bem às características da região", amadurece cada vez melhor em um clima mais quente e "deveria ser plantada cada vez mais", acredita o especialista. Van Leeuwen menciona também a variedade "petit verdot", também tardia e autorizada nas denominações de origem da região vinícola de Bordeaux, mas que tem sido deixada de lado nos últimos 50 anos. Ambas poderiam ocupar um lugar mais importante nas combinações de diferentes variedades utilizadas para elaborar o vinho. Mas, a longo prazo, talvez seja necessário ir além: "até 2040-2050, quiçá tenhamos necessidade de introduzir variedades que atualmente não são cultivadas em Bordeaux para ter uma paleta de variedades que amadureçam no período ideal para fazer grandes vinhos", estima van Leeuwen. Se estuda, entre outras, a futura entrada da uva tinta cao, variedade portuguesa utilizada hoje nos vinhos do Porto, indica Kees van Leeuwen, porque o "clima atlântico da região se parecerá ao de Bordeaux em 30 ou 40 anos, com dois ou três graus a mais". Muitos viticultores bordeleses reivindicam a possibilidade de fazer experimentos dentro da denominação de origem, em 1% ou 2% da composição. "O gosto do vinho não se modificará com a alteração de 1% nas variedades e nós, em contrapartida, aprenderemos (...) coloquemos em prática novas técnicas para estarmos preparados, dentro de dez anos, para lançá-las de maneira oficial", afirma Jérémy Ducourt, enólogo das bodegas Ducourt, que acabou de começar os testes. Essa questão não preocupa somente a França. Por isso, há um programa de pesquisa financiado pela União Europeia, Adviclim, cujo objetivo é avaliar a influência da mudança climática nas vinhas e estudar possibilidades de adaptação. | comida |
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] | Renzo Garibaldi, 31, é um peruano bonachão, de boné e óculos de aro grosso, dono do Kobe, um buldogue. Largou a cozinha do La Mar, de Gastón Acurio, em San Francisco, para trabalhar com o que mais gostava de comer: carne. E então comprou sua primeira vaca morta, de quase meia tonelada, por US$ 3.500, e levou uma semana para transformá-la em hambúrgueres, filés e afins. Hoje, toca o Osso, que nasceu como açougue e faz as vezes de restaurante (34º na lista regional da revista "Restaurant"), em um bairro afastado do centro de Lima, no país que menos consome carne na América Latina. Renzo é um militante da carne de animais sobre os quais se conhece a vida e a morte, usados em sua totalidade. "Alguém que tem fome abre a geladeira e come. Quem quer uma experiência, vai a um restaurante." Uma de suas marcas é o steak tartare, com só quatro elementos (carne maturada, cebolinha, gema de ovo e sal) e para comer com as mãos. Folha - Comer com as mãos é uma volta ao primitivo? Renzo Garibaldi - Às vezes é preciso retirar as pessoas da zona de conforto. Quando você come com a mão, só pensa na comida. Vamos parar de comer carne? Acho isso complicado. Estou de acordo com muitas das crenças dos vegetarianos, os motivos pelos quais se deixa de comer carne. Mas o mundo não é tão preto e branco, há muito cinza. Há que se procurar qual carne comer, de animais criados e abatidos de forma correta. O que é uma carne correta? Um animal que tenha chegado a uma certa idade, tenha tido uma vida, tenha sido alimentado com pasto, que caminhou livremente -como era antes. Temos que nos afastar da industrialização. Michael Pollan diz que a indústria alimentar nos distanciou da origem da comida. Nos supermercados os açougueiros são uma pequena parte de um processo muito industrializado. Cortam "uma coisa", vendem "uma coisa". Não conhecem bem o animal. O açougueiro tem que saber cozinhar, tem que saber como a carne se comporta. O ofício vai desaparecer? Nos Estados Unidos, já desapareceu. Os americanos não iam ao açougue, nem ao verdureiro, nem ao fruteiro, iam apenas ao supermercado. Depois de muito tempo, percebemos que o estresse causa doença. Queremos diminuir o ritmo e voltamos a dar oportunidade ao ofício. Reaparecem açougueiros, padeiros, queijeiros. E, com a volta desses ofícios, a matéria-prima passa a ser tratada melhor? Muito melhor. E o cliente começa a ser tratado melhor também. A experiência de compra começa a mudar. Você recebe o animal inteiro para fazer os cortes? Compramos sempre os animais pela metade. Penduramos durante uma semana, dez dias, para depois desossar e maturar. O animal tem que secar um pouco, soltar água. As fibras também precisam de tempo, e não é rápido. E isso os supermercados não podem fazer porque têm de trabalhar com velocidade e volume. Você só serve carne maturada. Quais os benefícios? Com a maturação conseguimos três coisas: amaciar a carne, intensificar o sabor e suavizar a acidez. É possível identificar a qualidade da carne pela aparência da gordura? Quando você vê a gordura -cor, textura, cheiro-, sabe o que o animal comeu. Se é branca, comeu muitos grãos. Se é amarela, pasto, que tem clorofila e pinta a gordura. E o que é bom? Para mim, o meio. Uma carne que foi alimentada com pasto e terminada com grão. O pasto tem sabores de terra, de couro. A carne de um animal alimentado com grãos tem sabor de manteiga e de gordura. Dario Cecchini faz o oposto do que faz a indústria: abate animais mais maduros, alimentados com pasto, feno e grãos. O que acha disso? Não gosto de trabalhar com nenhuma carne muito jovem. Como é servir carne no país que menos consome esse produtor na América Latina? Fomos um pouco loucos, mas nos saímos bem. Era uma aposta arriscada, mas a cozinha peruana está em desenvolvimento, tudo o que alguém pode fazer é uma soma. | comida |
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] | O leilão de vinhos dos Hospícios de Beaune, na Borgonha, bateu um recorde no domingo (15), com uma garrafa vendida por 480.000 euros, valor que será revertido, em parte, para vítimas dos atentados de Paris, constatou a AFP. A garrafa em questão é um Corton Renardes Grand cru de 2015, milésimo considerado "muito promissor", arrematada por uma compradora francesa, cujo nome não foi divulgado, informou a diretora geral da Christie's, Aline Sylla-Walbaum. O recorde anterior para a chamada "peça de caridade", venda cujo benefício vai para obras beneficentes, era de 400.000 euros, em 2010. Neste ano, além das associações previstas inicialmente, como o Instituto Curie contra o câncer e a Fundação para pesquisa sobre acidentes vasculares cerebrais, os organizadores do leilão resolveram reverter parte do lucro para vítimas dos atentados que deixaram 129 mortos na capital francesa. O evento, que reúne compradores do mundo inteiro, começou com um minuto de silêncio, e em seguida a sala entoou o hino francês, a Marselhesa. | comida |