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] | Desde julho passado, a Vinícola Campestre —produtora do Rio Grande do Sul que inaugurou ano passado sua primeira loja no Sudeste em São Paulo, na região de Pinheiros— abre seu wine bar três vezes por semana para um rodízio de vinhos.Com o preço fechado de R$ 99, é possível degustar 15 rótulos exclusivos, incluindo alguns da linha Zanotto, premiada em 2021 pela Decanter World Wine Awards, que há quase 20 anos escolhe boas garrafas ao redor do globo.Parece tentadora —e é— a oferta de tanta bebida por um preço que, em grande parte dos bons restaurantes, não cobre nem um único vinho. E é este, aliás, o principal ponto a se ter em mente quando da visita ao rodízio: estamos falando de muita, mas muita bebida mesmo.O serviço é generoso não só nos modos, mas também nas doses. Não espere que o garçom ou a educadíssima gerente Michelle façam a moderação do quanto de cada rótulo você vai experimentar —se o cliente não sinaliza nada, as taças vão se enchendo quase até a boca.É pouco provável, também, que alguém "empurre" às mesas alguma das opções de tábuas disponíveis, com petiscos como frios, queijos e até dadinhos de tapioca, todas por uma média de R$ 99. Quem vem só pelos vinhos é tão bem-vindo quanto os que engordam a conta com comida.O segredo para uma boa experiência no rodízio da Campestre mora justamente na sobriedade (que não é sinônimo de abstinência, óbvio). O comensal que vai pela sombra, bebendo pouco de cada rótulo, tomando água e se alimentando, aproveita muito mais do que aquele que de cara queima a largada. Mais Não é obrigatório seguir a ordem sugerida no cardápio, mas ela é interessante porque constrói um roteiro. O programa abre com quatro brancos e um rosé Zanotto, incluindo um surpreendente gewürztraminer —o nome significa "uva apimentada do Tramin", cidade do norte da Itália que fala alemão. O sabor lembra fruta tropical temperada.A transição para os tintos acontece com duas garrafas de castas italianas e francesas, e inaugura o que dá para chamar de "segunda parte" do rodízio com um pinot noir que não fica atrás, em nenhum aspecto, se comparado a hermanos uruguaios e argentinos.Destaque também para o syrah, o sangiovese e o malbec. Em resumo: não há vinhos ruins na seleção, e o grande atrativo do rodízio está em experimentar um pouquinho de cada um, para então voltar aos favoritos com doses mais robustas.O wine bar fica no fundo da loja da Vinícola Campestre, que vende a bom preço guloseimas para os amantes da culinária, incluindo os excelentes presunto cru e salame servidos em uma das tábuas. Mais Lá também estão disponíveis os vinhos que embalam o rodízio —as garrafas do gewürztraminer e do malbec saem a R$ 59,90 cada. Última e valiosa dica (além, claro, do mandatório "se beber não dirija"): não deixe para o final a visita à mercearia.Faça isso na metade da noite, quando precisar levantar para ir ao banheiro, por exemplo. A empolgação com o programa, calibrada pelos muitos mililitros de álcool no sangue, pode render um rombo na conta bancária.Em São Paulo, há também outro rodízio de vinhos, este funcionando desde 2018 de terça a sábado das 18h30 à 1h. É o Bocca Nera (R. Mourato Coelho, 1.160, Vila Madalena, Tel.11 3031-5171), também com 15 rótulos entre espumantes, tintos, brancos e de sobremesa, todos à vontade —pode ser cobrada taxa de desperdício, de R$ 10.Custa a partir de R$ 69,90, a depender do dia da semana escolhido.Rodízio da Vinícola CampestreQuintas, das 18h à meia-noite, só para mulheres. Sextas e sábados, das 18h à meia-noite, para o público em geral. Consumo liberado R$ 99. No programa, 15 rótulos Zanotto e Villa Campestre. Av. Pedroso de Morais, 1047, Pinheiros, São Paulo. WhatsApp (11) 93947- 3933. Reservas em www.wine-locals.com/passeios/rodizio-de-vinhos-no-bar-da-campestre-sp. | comida |
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] | No próximo sábado (6), 3.000 pessoas vão se reunir em um complexo de galpões da avenida Henry Ford, na Mooca, para comer churrasco até cansar.O endereço, mantido em segredo e divulgado pela Folha em primeira mão, foi escolhido como palco da sétima edição do evento Churrascada em São Paulo. Os ingressos —a R$ 550 e que dão direito a comida e bebida à vontade— foram vendidos em abril e se esgotaram em apenas 36 horas.Como já acontece desde 2015, o american barbecue, técnica mais bombada entre os amantes de churrasco, promete ser uma das tônicas do evento. A estrela maior será o pitmaster norte-americano Ed Mitchell, que acaba de entrar para o cobiçado Barbecue Hall of Fame.Mas quem reparar direitinho vai ver que novos ventos estão soprando as brasas da Churrascada, uma tendência que já era visível nas últimas edições e aparece reforçada este ano.Estarão lá Antônio da Conceição, conhecido como Playboy, preparando a tradicional carne de fumeiro de Maragogipe (BA), no Recôncavo Baiano, e o gaúcho Fabricio Goulart, assando shoulders no churrasco de vala, método secular que resiste nos pampas.Maíco dos Santos, trazido de Alter do Chão (PA), foi encarregado de exibir a piracaia amazônica, peixe assado em moquém —pela primeira vez, pescados tiveram entrada permitida na Churrascada.E o paulistano Paulo Yoller vai preparar cordeiro e porco no biaribi, técnica indígena na qual o alimento é cozido em uma cova, envolto em folha de bananeira.Para elaborar o cardápio com acento brasuca, Gustavo Bottino, criador do festival, aproveitou a interrupção do evento durante a pandemia para mergulhar na pesquisa de técnicas dos povos originários das Américas, muitas delas temperadas pelas influências africanas."Acho que essas técnicas têm potencial de virar uma nova onda. Está na hora de encontrarmos uma identidade brasileira para o churrasco", defende.Entre assadores, Bottino tem fama de ser justamente um dos principais responsáveis pela moda do american barbecue por aqui. De 2012 a 2016, ele comandou o restaurante BOS BBQ, na Vila Madalena, e apresentou ao paulistano o então chamado churrasco texano.Nessa técnica, os cortes são assados pela ação indireta do fogo em churrasqueiras especiais, os pit smokers. Quem faz o serviço é uma combinação de fumaça e calor gerado pela lenha ou carvão.O resultado é um tipo de churrasco bem peculiar, como explica o paraense Edvaldo Caribé, autor do livro "O Barbecue Brasileiro – do Moquém ao Pit Smoker" (editora Lettera)."A característica do american barbecue é a crosta escura e caramelizada, diferente da coloração mogno do churrasco brasileiro, fruto do contato direto com o fogo."O que pouca gente sabe é que o churrasco americano e as nossas técnicas ancestrais têm a mesma origem. "Embora o barbecue seja o símbolo da cultura dos Estados Unidos, suas raízes estão fortemente ligadas aos povos indígenas das Américas Central e do Sul", diz Caribé.Nos primórdios, tanto lá como aqui, carnes e peixes eram assados sobre estruturas suspensas de madeira —o moquém, ou barbacoa, cujo princípio também é o preparo na fumaça, sob ação indireta do fogo.Não foi diferente no sul do país, onde os guaranis comiam churrasco malpassado, para desespero dos jesuítas, que temiam contaminação por vermes."O máximo que os nativos faziam era colocar alguns pedaços de carne em cima de uma espécie de grelha chamada môcaêta. Na prática, não assavam, mas defumavam a refeição", explica Clarice Chwartzmann, coautora de "Os Gaúchos e o Churrasco – Uma Jornada ao Redor do Fogo" (editora. Quattro Projetos). Mais A diferença é que norte-americanos investiram tanto na evolução do método de defumação que chegaram ao atual pit smoker, equipamento luxuoso que permite controle preciso de temperatura e circulação de fumaça, com formato similar ao de um barril transformado em churrasqueira.Aqui, o caminho foi outro: o churrasco que se popularizou nos centros urbanos foi o gaúcho dos espetos, devidamente adaptado para a rotina moderna."O churrasco de fogo de chão, feito com cortes enormes, leva de 4 a 12 horas para ficar pronto. À medida em que o mercado passou a oferecer cortes menores, que podem ser assados rapidamente em contato direto com o fogo, a cultura foi mudando", explica Clarice.Enquanto isso, as técnicas mais rústicas, do churrasco assado sob defumação, que exige espaço e paciência, ficaram restritas a culturas regionais."O moquém foi desprezado pelos colonizadores, mas vejo que, aos poucos, está despertando interesse no mundo do churrasco", festeja Caribé, que não perde a oportunidade de montar moquéns nos eventos gastronômicos para os quais é convidado. Mais Ninguém defende que assadores brasileiros lacrem seus caros pit smokers e voltem a usar estruturas rudimentares de madeira para defumação —pelo contrário.Encontrar uma identidade brasileira para o churrasco não depende apenas da técnica. Vale até usar o pit smoker americano, que afinal funciona tão bem, mas com sabores nossos, dos temperos e acompanhamentos ao tipo de lenha.Quer um exemplo? Na Churrascada, a dupla Tatá Lowrider e Walter Amaral vai servir brisket, o corte mais famoso do american barbecue, mas com jambu e tucupi.Para Bottino, é só questão de virar a "chavinha". "O Brasil tem muito craque e está mais do que na hora de deixarmos de ser um país que apenas soube copiar bem o churrasco norte-americano. Agora é a vez do brazilian barbecue." | comida |
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] | Depois de uma troca de última hora, que fez com que a organização deixasse de lado o plano de ter Moscou como sede para sua gala de 2022 (após os ataques à Ucrânia), o 50 Best, maior premiação da gastronomia, acontece nesta segunda (18) em Londres, em cerimônia que tem início às 20h30 horário local (16h30 horário de Brasília).Celebrando 20 anos desde a publicação de sua primeira lista, que elegeu o mítico El Bulli como melhor restaurante do mundo pela primeira vez, este ano a cerimônia ganha mais pompa —e busca renovar sua influência.A começar pela apresentação: o ator hollywoodiano Stanley Tucci, conhecido por papéis em filmes como "O Diabo Veste Prada", será o mestre de cerimônias da noite. É a primeira vez que a gala é apresentada por uma celebridade —Tucci ficou conhecido por uma imersão na gastronomia com uma série e um livro sobre a comida italiana no ano passado.O 50 Best também promete novidades, já que todos os anos a organização tenta lançar novas categorias para se renovar. Entre outras, deve ser apresentada a de restaurante mais sustentável do mundo.No quesito melhor restaurante, as apostas são de que a Dinamarca siga no topo do pódio —o Geranium tem grandes chances de ser eleito o melhor restaurante do mundo nesta noite.Com três estrelas Michelin e uma cozinha de execução perfeita e com base em produtos escandinavos, a casa é comandada pelo chef Rasmus Kofoed e tinha ficado em segundo lugar na lista do ano passado.O menu degustação do Geranium custa cerca de R$ 2.300 reais (sem bebidas alcoólicas). Uma de suas peculiaridades é a vista para o estádio oficial do time de futebol da Dinamarca.Os brasileiros Maní, Lasai, Evvai e D.O.M. foram divulgados na semana passada como parte de uma lista expandida que é feita pela organização dos 50 Best, entre as posições 51-100. O mais próximo que o Brasil já ficou do primeiro lugar foi em 2017, quando o D.O.M., de Alex Atala, alcançou o quarto lugar. Mais Celebrando 20 anos desde sua primeira edição, em 2001, o 50 Best chega à vida adulta como a premiação que ajudou a mudar o panorama da gastronomia mundial, ao permitir que os jurados pudessem votar em qualquer restaurante que quisessem.Os votantes escolhem dez estabelecimentos em ordem de preferência que tenham visitado pelo mundo. A única exigência é que pelo menos três deles sejam de fora da área/continente que está representando e que eles confirmem as datas que estiveram nos restaurantes.Esta última regra, aliás, foi incorporada mais recentemente, desde que a lista passou a ser criticada por muitos pela possibilidade de viés e de interesse entre os votantes e os chefs e seus restaurantes.Outra regra recém adotada é que aqueles que alcançam o topo da lista são automaticamente transferidos para a categoria Best of The Best, e por isso não podem mais concorrer ao primeiro lugar.Controversa, a premiação segue como a mais discutida no setor, defendida por muitos como o "Oscar da gastronomia" pela sua influência e alcance entre cozinheiros e personalidades, além de propagar uma imagem glamourizada dos restaurantes. | comida |
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] | Poucos ingredientes representam tão bem a dualidade entre a preocupação com a saúde e a concessão à praticidade na cozinha quanto os caldos em forma de tablete. Enquanto os vigilantes se preocupam com os malefícios de seu uso, os cozinheiros do mundo moderno —e corrido— se justificam lembrando que, para produzir um rico e saboroso caldo caseiro, que adicione camadas de sabor a uma receita, é preciso cozinhá-lo por horas e horas.Caldos caseiros e industrializados são comumente feitos dos mesmos ingredientes: proteínas, vegetais e temperos. A diferença é que, nos caseiros, os ingredientes são usados em sua forma fresca e natural, enquanto nos industriais esses elementos são liofilizados e, então, acrescidos de sódio, conservantes e aromatizantes artificiais."Os caldos industrializados não são vilões por si só. Se utilizados dentro de um contexto de alimentação equilibrada, eles são facilitadores para o consumo de alimentos caseiros e saudáveis, uma vez que fornecem sabor e podem ser ferramentas importantes para estimular, por exemplo, o aumento do consumo de vegetais", acredita Gisele Bannwart, nutricionista e engenheira de alimentos.Natália Santos, chef da Unilever, diz que os caldos da Knorr, marca parte do guarda-chuva da empresa, não possuem conservantes adicionados às fórmulas e são feitos com ingredientes cultivados de maneira sustentável."A Knorr vem reformulando seu portfólio ao longo dos tempos para melhor atender às necessidades dos consumidores e trouxe recentemente ao mercado inovações como a linha zero sal. É comum encontrar cadernos de receitas que passam de geração em geração, e as receitas de família mais icônicas e saborosas possuem caldo Knorr no seu preparo."De fato, é inegável a presença dos caldos industriais nas cozinhas do país. Para o sociólogo Carlos Alberto Dória, os caldos fazem parte da culinária, sejam originados nas soluções industriais ou feitos no momento."Mas os caldos industrializados, isto é, os liofilizados, substituíram caldos caseiros por razões de praticidade e não pela criação de um novo hábito alimentar ou coisa do gênero. A resistência a esses caldos se deve ao seu excesso de interferência química no sentido de preservar proteínas", diz Dória."O caldo de carne foi inventado em 1850 e pouco. Essa inovação foi muito utilizada no Rio Grande do Sul ainda no século 19, quando se pesquisava a produção de formas de acondicionar carnes e seus derivados para exportação. Esses caldos de preparação imediata repetem esse procedimento, que é transportar o elemento proteico e reidratar no local de consumo.""Quando minha mãe descobriu os tabletinhos mágicos de caldos, passou a usá-los", lembra a chef do restaurante Tordesilhas e pesquisadora da cozinha brasileira, Mara Salles. "Ela, mesmo sem conhecer o sabor umami, instintivamente explorava o sabor do glutamato natural do tomate, parmesão, couve-flor e fazia isso com maestria para suprir a ausência da carne em tempos difíceis.""Porém, quando preparava legumes de sabores menos marcantes como abobrinha, chuchu, e até algumas sopas sem proteína, sempre argumentava que 'com um caldinho de carne isso fica uma delícia', e ficava mesmo."Para Helena Rizzo, chef do Maní e apresentadora do programa Masterchef, os caldos industrializados chegaram por meio de seu pai. "Ele fazia muitos risotos, paellas, e volta e meia botava um pedacinho do caldinho de tablete, e a gente gostava muito da comida dele", conta."Quando eu comecei a trabalhar com comida, meu pai também foi se envolvendo cada vez mais com a cozinha. Eu implicava com ele toda vez que ele usava caldinho de tablete em casa e, hoje em dia, ele não usa mais."Com uma grande pesquisa sobre caldos, o chef mineiro Caio Soter, à frente do restaurante Pacato, em Belo Horizonte, acredita que a memória afetiva do brasileiro é "constituída à base do caldo de tablete"."Na minha família se usava e eu acredito que eles fazem parte da cultura culinária do brasileiro, trouxeram praticidade para uma vida mais corrida. Mas acho que é um comportamento do qual devemos buscar nos afastar. De qualquer forma, só de falar sobre caldo de tablete, já me dá água na boca", brinca.A água na boca, no entanto, não é à toa. Muitos dos caldos têm uma porcentagem de glutamato monossódico, o umami, mais conhecido como o quinto sabor, presente de forma natural em ingredientes como tomate, cogumelos e queijo parmesão."Não tenho dúvidas de que esses caldos industrializados são muito práticos e em tempos de fome, como agora, podem trazer a lembrança da carne, mas a um custo muito alto para a saúde", pontua Mara Salles."Eu consigo identificar uma comida na qual vai caldo industrializado. Fica com aquele gostinho artificial, que acaba mascarando muitas vezes o sabor dos outros ingredientes", garante Helena Rizzo. Mais Betty Kovesi, à frente da Escola Wilma Kovesi de Cozinha, em Pinheiros, conta como o assunto é abordado em sala de aula. "Nossa lição número um é ensinar que o caldo nada mais é do que um líquido saboroso que entra em um preparo para realçar sabor. A lição número dois é para que criem o hábito de ler no rótulo os ingredientes que compõem o alimento que se está comprando", diz. Para facilitar a vida de cozinheiros amadores, a escola passou a vender caldos congelados que tivessem a mesma praticidade dos caldos industriais. Marina Hernandez, chef na Wilma Kovesi, conta que eles produzem semanalmente caldos de carne, aves, legumes e camarão. Custam de R$ 29 a R$ 39 o litro."Caldo não é um bicho de sete cabeças como as pessoas pensam", diz Helena Rizzo. "É possível fazer um caldo gostoso em 20, 30 minutos. Além disso, também é uma maneira de aproveitar excedentes de ingredientes que se tem em casa. Faz um frango assado e sobram ossos? Aproveita no caldo. Talos e cascas de verdura que iriam para o lixo? Também dá para aproveitar."Rendimento: 2 litrosINGREDIENTES225 g de aromáticos base (casca de cebola, casca de cenoura, parte verde do alho poró, folhas de salsão).2,5 L de água fria.Ervas e especiarias (tomilho, pimenta, cravo, alho e folha louro).200 a 300 g de aparas de legumes e outros aromáticos tais como pimentões, casca e semente de tomates, pontas de vagem, pedaços de berinjela, miolo de abobrinha, talos de salsinha, talos de cogumelos, casca de abóbora, casca de nabo, casca de aspargos, talos de ervas frescas (Não utilizar em caldos: cascas de batata, mandioquinha e mandioca , porque soltam amido e não interessam para a estrutura do caldo).PREPAROEm uma panela grande junte todos os ingredientes e cubra com água em temperatura ambiente.Leve para cozinhar e, assim que ferver, abaixe o fogo e deixe cozinhar em fogo brando por pelo menos 2 horas, podendo deixar até 4 horas, escumando a superfície de tempos em tempos para que o fundo fique límpido.Coe, resfrie e refrigere para uso posterior.Rendimento: 1,5 L de caldoINGREDIENTESPara Caldo de Frango: 1 kg de carcaça de frango (ou aparas, asas, pés).Para Caldo de Carne: 1 kg de músculo de boi cortado em cubos.1 cenoura inteira1 cebola inteira, espetada com 3 cravos da Índia6 grãos de pimenta do reino preta3 a 4 litros de água filtrada.Bouquet garni: 10 ramos de salsa, 1 talo de cebolinha verde, 1 folha de louro, parte branca de 1 alho poró, 1 talo de salsão , 1 raminho de tomilho, amarrados.PREPAROEm caldeirão ou panela de fundo largo, leve todos os ingredientes a cozinhar em fogo lento, tampado, retirando ocasionalmente a espuma que se formar.Deixe o caldo ferver durante aproximadamente 2 horas ou até reduzir à metade. Coe (no caso do caldo de carne, reserve a carne desfie e coma fria temperada).Para desengordurar, leve à geladeira e, depois de frio, retire a camada de gordura que se forma na superfície. Conserve 1 dia em geladeira ou congele em porções ideais para consumo como, por exemplo, formas de gelo. | comida |
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] | No Brasil, faz tempo que cacau é sinônimo de Bahia, uma forte ligação cultural que os romances de Jorge Amado e as novelas de TV ajudaram a consolidar. Mas o cenário está mudando com rapidez —mais da metade do nosso cacau já é paraense.Atual líder na produção nacional, o Pará vinha ameaçando a supremacia baiana havia alguns anos, com avanços e recuos, e no momento está à frente. Pelo Levantamento Sistemático da Produção Agrícola (LSPA) de 2022, publicado pelo Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatísticas (IBGE), já responde por 50,68% da produção.O estado também ganha de lavada em produtividade. O rendimento médio é de 948 quilos por hectare, enquanto a média nacional estaciona nos 469 quilos por hectare.Por ser nativo da região amazônica, o cacau encontra no Pará as condições ideais —calor o ano todo e umidade altíssima, que se sente, literalmente, na pele. Mesmo no inverno, considerado época da seca, não é raro o dia ser entrecortado por rápidas chuvas torrenciais, que mais parecem duchas que se abrem de repente.Em seu ambiente natural, o cacau também resiste melhor às pragas mais comuns, como a vassoura de bruxa, que chegou a dizimar as lavouras baianas nos anos 1990 —o fungo até aparece nos cacaueiros paraenses, mas é mais fácil de ser controlado.Não por acaso, o avanço das lavouras paraenses tem sido rápido. A colheita de 2022, que aconteceu mais cedo do que o habitual, em abril, rendeu 233 mil toneladas de amêndoas secas, de acordo com dados do Ministério da Agricultura, Pecuária e Abastecimento (Mapa). Em 2010, eram apenas 67 mil toneladas.Medicilândia, que desde 2021 ostenta o título de Capital Nacional do Cacau, encabeça a lista de municípios campeões no estado. Atrás vêm Uruará, Anapu, Brasil Novo, Placas, Altamira e Vitória do Xingu.Mas tudo ali é muito novo. O cultivo em escala tem apenas 50 anos —foi a rodovia Transamazônica, inaugurada em 1972, que rasgou a floresta e permitiu o acesso a regiões remotas, onde a atividade era puramente extrativista.Iniciado em 1976, o plantio de cacau seguiu tímido até 2012, quando o Código Florestal determinou que fazendas na Amazônia deveriam manter 80% das matas nativas (e não mais 20%, como era antes).Na marra, as lavouras de cana de açúcar começaram a ceder espaço para o cacau, que pode ser cultivado nas reservas legais —no sistema cabruca, os pés de cacau crescem entre árvores nativas.O produtor Élido Trevisan, 68, faz parte da primeira leva de desbravadores. Na companhia dos pais, aos 18 anos, ele trocou Tenente Portela (RS) por Medicilândia, em 1972, atraído pela promessa de terra barata e facilidades para pagar. Mas, de cacau, só ouviu falar quatro anos depois."Em 1976, a gente recebeu as primeiras sementes de Ilhéus. Plantei 10 hectares. A primeira colheita, em 1980, deu só um balainho de fruta", lembra o produtor, que hoje colhe até 70 toneladas anuais.Os anos seguintes testemunharam mais e mais imigrantes chegando à região. Entre eles estava Belmiro Faes, 70, oriundo de Ascurra (SC), que adquiriu 96 hectares nas margens da Transamazônica."Meu pai plantava fumo e não quis mais produzir algo que fizesse mal à saúde das pessoas. Como o governo facilitava a compra e um vizinho nosso já tinha vindo, ele resolveu vir também em 1981. Mas quase desistiu. Era muita dificuldade, isso aqui só tinha um casebre e cinco pés de manga", conta a filha de Faes, Sarah Faes Brogni.Hoje à frente do Sítio Ascurra, Sarah e o marido, Robson Brogni, colhem até 200 toneladas de cacau a cada safra anual. Uma pequena parcela, de apenas 5%, é de cacau fino, aquele preferido pelos chocolateiros artesanais adeptos da cultura bean to bar. Os frutos demandam cuidados especiais desde o cultivo até a secagem e chegam a valer o dobro no mercado. Mais Entre os compradores das amêndoas do Sítio Ascurra, que faturaram o primeiro lugar no III Concurso Nacional de Qualidade de Cacau Especial do Brasil, em 2021, estão a gaúcha Magian Cacao e a mineira Java Chocolates.Só que o casal Brogni descobriu que produzir chocolate bean to bar com marca própria também é um ótimo negócio. Desde 2019, Sarah fabrica barras com alto teor de cacau na pequena fábrica que montou na fazenda. A estrutura de alvenaria com interior azulejado fica bem ao lado das estufas de secagem das amêndoas, pertinho dos cochos de fermentação e a poucos passos da plantação.Aumentar a produção de cacau fino, se alinhar às demandas do efervescente mercado bean to bar e vencer cinco décadas de isolamento são, justamente, os principais desafios dos cacauicultores paraenses a partir de agora.O primeiro passo foi dado na semana passada, com a realização da Chocolat Xingu 2022. Organizada pelo Chocolat Festival, que já promove edições anuais em Salvador (BA), Ilhéus (BA), Belém (PA), Linhares (ES), Portugal e São Paulo (SP), a feira aconteceu em Altamira e reuniu cem expositores de toda a cadeia, de agricultores a chocolateiros.Organizador do evento, o empresário Marco Lessa acredita que o produtor paraense depende de informação para dar um passo à frente."Até hoje, a gente só via iniciativas isoladas por aqui, sem um plano, e o produtor acaba sendo o elo da cadeia que menos ganha. Quero mostrar que é possível verticalizar a produção e chegar até a fabricação do chocolate, porque as tecnologias estão mais acessíveis, e até almejar o mercado externo. Basta trabalhar bem o marketing de Produto da Amazônia."Estimular o turismo de experiência é outro dos alvos do evento esse, sim, um degrau bem mais alto que os produtores paraenses precisam vencer.Até mesmo Altamira, a cidade mais desenvolvida entre os municípios produtores de cacau no estado, com alto potencial turístico por estar às margens do Rio Xingu, recebe um único voo diário oriundo de Belém (PA).Única companhia aérea a pousar por lá, a Azul chega a cobrar R$ 3.500 pela passagem São Paulo-Altamira —só ida. O preço equivale ao de uma passagem para Miami, nos Estados Unidos. Mais As fazendas também carecem de estrutura mínima para receber turistas. Único por enquanto a ter porteiras abertas para visitantes, o médico Antônio Pantoja, proprietário da fazenda Abelha Cacau, estabeleceu-se nos arredores de Altamira em 2015 e já recebe grupos interessados em conhecer seus 25 mil pés de cacau, além do meliponário, onde é possível observar dezenas de espécies de abelhas nativas sem ferrão."Sem elas, não haveria Amazônia. Mais leves e com maior capacidade de voo, as abelhas nativas são as grandes responsáveis por polinizar a floresta", explica, sobre a junção dos assuntos.Na área urbana, onde funciona sua pequena fábrica de chocolates, Pantoja acaba de construir um restaurante e está finalizando uma pousada com 16 suítes. Até o fim do ano, ele espera alojar os primeiros turistas interessados em fazer uma imersão na cultura cacaueira da Amazônia —e torce para que venham não só do Brasil, mas também do exterior. | comida |
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] | O bar já viveu tempos mais gloriosos nas nossas casas. Talvez não os coquetéis —afinal, se há alguns anos todo mundo queria ser chef, nem que fosse na televisão, hoje muita gente quer ser bartender e os drinques caseiros são uma febre real. Vídeos ensinando o segredo do gelo perfeito para o negroni ou como escolher o melhor gim para o seu martini se multiplicam pelas redes.Mas esfrie sua taça um instante. Ao mesmo tempo que os drinques caseiros estão melhores —ainda que haja espaço para aprimoramento–, os barzinhos domésticos em que eles eram preparados e servidos, não vivem mais dias de glória. Nem de mogno. Só que parece que tem gente com saudade.Nas últimas semanas, um post viralizou nas redes sociais, deixando muitos curiosos e nostálgicos. Atribuído ao arroba @satansanto, ele descrevia um mobiliário comum nas casas brasileiras dos anos 1970 e 1980."Toda sala de estar tinha um ‘bar’: balcão, duas banquetas altas, um armário de fundo, às vezes espelhado, com suporte para pendurar as taças de ponta cabeça. Era como se tivesse um barman para atender as pessoas em casa", lembrava o post.Quem viveu a época correu para lembrar, com a memória afetiva aguçada, os grandes móveis de madeira que imitavam bares e ocupavam um espaço generoso da sala de "visitas".Nada como as bandejas e os carrinhos improvisados atualmente usados para colocar os utensílios para os drinques em casa. Bares reais, que chegavam a ocupar cerca de 10 m2.Será que a viralização do assunto prevê uma volta dos bares de madeira (o mogno ficou cada vez mais raro e mais caro) regados a scotch, licores e tacinhas de cristal jateado?A arquiteta Larissa Burke garante que não —pelo menos não nos moldes de antigamente. Sócia do Futura Studio, que assina o projeto de diversos bares na capital paulista, ela afirma que esses móveis enormes já não têm mais espaço —nem nas casas, nem na sociedade."A diferença cultural é muito grande. Há 40, 50 anos, as pessoas não tinham tanto o hábito de sair para beber fora, então, receber amigos em casa era mais comum, e esses móveis cumpriam esse papel dentro da arquitetura da época. Principalmente para os homens da casa, bebendo scotch e fumando charuto", avalia."A partir da década de 1990, isso teve uma decadência porque os hábitos mudaram, as ofertas para se consumir fora de casa aumentaram, e o barzinho caiu em desuso."As mudanças acarretaram ainda outra transformação nos ambientes domésticos: o espaço. O tamanho dos móveis de então ocuparia metade do tamanho de muitos apartamentos vendidos atualmente. Mais "As pessoas se deram conta de que não precisavam ocupar um espaço tão grande e valioso com algo que quase não era aproveitado na casa. Muitos bares acabavam vindo depósito de tralhas, e foram sendo usados cada vez menos", conta o arquiteto Cristiano Chies, da ARCHDUE."Pouca gente continuou tendo tanto espaço para algo que era pouco utilizado e servia muito mais como um símbolo de status da época."O status, aliás era um grande ingrediente que os bares caseiros serviam, além dos martinis, cubas libres e licores. Ter um desses em casa, mais que útil para os moradores, era um atrativo para as visitas."Esses bares enormes eram um surto de loucura coletiva, e viraram uma instituição nas casas. Na época, ter o bar em casa era uma ostentação, mostrava o poder de compra das pessoas, com as bebidas caras à mostra, muitas não eram nem bebidas, ficavam ali pegando pó, mas era importante mostrar que havia muitas garrafas e rótulos", lembra a jornalista e apresentadora especializada em decoração Chris Campos.Se a ostentação já não põe mais a mesa (ou serve o drinque), outro componente da época dos barzinhos de mogno também se diluiu como o gelo dos anos 1980 para cá: o patriarcado. Mais Afinal, os bares —mesmo os caseiros— foram reduto masculino durante décadas. Repare que na descrição do post que viralizou está o "barman" que apareceria nas casas para fazer um drinque, bastante condizente com as telenovelas da época, que reproduziam interminavelmente a cena do executivo que desafrouxa a gravata ao chegar em casa, vai até ao bar doméstico e se serve de uma dose de scotch despejada de uma garrafa de cristal.E, se os bares enormes de então pareceriam elefantes brancos nas casas geralmente diminutas em que vivemos, assim também parece o machismo nos ambientes boêmios. Afinal, cada vez mais mulheres ocupam esses espaços não apenas porque gostam de beber, mas porque apreciam —e sabem— preparar drinques.O bar mudou e, para algumas mudanças, não há retorno. | comida |
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] | Falar sobre vinho pode ser visto como algo elitista e distante da realidade da maioria das pessoas. Em seu novo livro, "Conversas Acerca do Vinho", a sommelière Gabriela Monteleone busca, entretanto, justamente humanizar essa relação com o vinho, aproximando a bebida a todos os tipos de público e trazendo à tona questões que vão muito além do beber.Sommelière há mais de 15 anos, Gabriela trabalha hoje com alguns dos principais profissionais da gastronomia, como Alex Atala e Bel Coelho. Em seu projeto "Tão Longe Tão Perto", ao lado do empreendedor Ariel Kogan, ela deu início a uma série de conversas que criavam elos entre produtores de vinho e consumidores finais.Foi assim que o projeto saltou das reuniões para as páginas deste que é seu primeiro livro, a ser lançado na segunda-feira (20), a partir das 16h, no restaurante Futuro Refeitório, em São Paulo.Em quase 300 páginas, "Conversas Acerca do Vinho" provoca reflexões, questionamentos e discussões sobre a segunda bebida alcoólica mais consumida no mundo.Gabriela propõe ao leitor pensar o que há por trás de cada taça —histórias, pessoas, locais, tradições—, e nos lembra constantemente que, em cada gole, existe sustentabilidade, biodiversidade, regeneração, cultura, economia e política."Como falar de vinho e não falar de política pública, em um momento de colapso econômico e ambiental em todo o mundo?", provoca a autora.São cinco capítulos que discutem a ética perante a produção vinícola, não apenas visando trabalhos inovadores, mas questionando as escolhas do consumidor final diante da responsabilidade do que se ingere, do que se consome.Por meio de entrevistas com produtores de vinhos de diversos lugares do mundo, Gabriela expõe de maneira clara e acessível um novo momento da vitivinicultura, que busca não apenas bebidas saborosas, mas também —e principalmente— éticas.Entre os nomes ouvidos pela autora, nota-se o consenso de uma busca do setor por mudanças de paradigmas. Demonstram, em comum, uma gana pela diversidade e um ideal de mundo, de agricultura e de mercado.Como se houvesse um movimento de novos caminhos a serem traçados, em uma busca por conhecimentos distintos a cada abrir de rolhas."Tudo o que comemos ou bebemos vem carregado de escolhas", coloca Marina Santos, proprietária da Vinha Unna, no Rio Grande do Sul, lembrando ao leitor que vinho também é um alimento e, assim como se tem consciência perante o que se come, também é preciso desenvolver esse olhar perante o que se bebe.Esse compilado inédito e fresco apresenta a bebida milenar como forma de arte, de prazer e sedução. O vinho, como personagem principal do livro, vem para provocar sensações subjetivas, memórias, famílias, imagens, filosofia.Gabriela propõe ao leitor que não se entregue nas mãos da indústria, que tenta constantemente moldar paladares ditando o que se produz e o que se consome. O convite da sommelière é para que se abra os olhos perante as várias realidades que cercam cada experiência com uma taça."Conversas Acerca do Vinho" é feito sobre e para vinhateiros, consumidores, profissionais, especialistas, entusiastas. O que sobra, pós-leitura, é a indagação: "Qual vinho você vai escolher a partir de agora?".A pulga atrás da orelha pergunta se olharemos da mesma forma para cada garrafa tomada ou comprada, ou se novos caminhos foram abertos e desmistificados. | comida |
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] | Em tempos digitais, em que emojis dizem mais que mil palavras, parece tentador o exercício de pensar qual pictograma poderia definir a cena gastronômica de grandes cidades do mundo.Se Istambul poderia ser traduzida com um doner kebab, Paris estaria bem representada por croissant e a Cidade do México na forma de um taco al pastor, como São Paulo poderia ser caracterizada, afinal? Sem dúvida, muitos apostariam em pizza.Em uma capital em que a imigração italiana foi tão determinante, a receita surgida em Nápoles ganhou sua versão à paulistana e se tornou tão popular que é até difícil pensar em outro prato tão amplamente consumido e difundido, que tenha definido hábitos alimentares e mudado tanto o panorama culinário.É essa relação apaixonada da cidade com a pizza que a jornalista Flávia G. Pinho (colaboradora da Folha) esmiúça no recém-lançado livro "Uma Fatia da Itália - Como a Pizza Conquistou São Paulo e o Brasil" (editora Matrix).Ela mostra, a partir de detalhado embasamento histórico (e por vezes excessivamente cronológico), como a pizza saiu da Itália, foi trazida pelos imigrantes e, depois, ganhou camadas de influências distintas até ser considerada "pizza paulistana" —que, curiosamente, foi levada depois a outras partes do mundo, como Madri, Lisboa e até Estados Unidos."O que teve início como uma manutenção das tradições alimentares e preservação da própria cultura se abriu como um valioso veículo de comunicação e integração entre italianos e brasileiros", escreve a também jornalista e pesquisadora Silvana Azevedo logo na apresentação do livro. Mais Equiparada apenas a um rol restritíssimo de receitas unanimemente apreciadas e massivamente consumidas no mundo todo (como, talvez, apenas o hambúrguer), a pizza tornou-se democraticamente global.Ganhou versões distintas por onde chegou pelas mãos dos imigrantes italianos e ainda passa por movimentos de valorização muito importantes, como o que ocorre agora com as "neo-napolitanas" em países como o Japão —onde curiosamente se comem algumas das melhores fatias do mundo hoje.Mas, assim como em outras paragens, o que aconteceu com a pizza em São Paulo é algo único, como os próprios movimentos culturais e gastronômicos que definiram a maior capital do país. "A cidade mais italiana do Brasil se apropriou da receita e a transformou em sua", escreve a jornalista.Pinho conta como o acesso restrito a alguns ingredientes ou a dificuldade de consegui-los com qualidade, como no caso do trigo, que chegava "mofado e rançoso", depois de meses de viagem e de espera no porto— determinou a identidade da pizza "made in São Paulo".Além da farinha, também não havia aqui os queijos, o tomate e outros insumos como os usados na Itália para fazer a pizza com o mesmo rigor das receitas napolitanas. Esses ingredientes tiveram que ser adaptados usando o que estava disponível, dando origem a um novo estilo —de massas mais finas e crocantes, coberturas (bem) mais diversas. Mais Para provar seu ponto, a autora narra a profusão de intercâmbios culturais exclusivos da cidade, como a da rede Camelo, fundada nos anos 1950 por um imigrante árabe (que originalmente vendia homus e esfirras) e que se tornou uma das mais tradicionais pizzarias paulistanas.Ou a popularização de coberturas que só existem por estas paragens: a clássica frango com catupiry (um queijo 100% nacional difundido justamente a partir das pizzas paulistanas) e a portuguesa, feita com presunto, ovos, cebola e ervilhas, uma homenagem ao gosto dos nossos colonizadores, embora nunca tenha existido em Portugal.O tema não chega a ser grande novidade, mas, com um trabalho árduo de apuração, a jornalista consegue dar traços factuais à história, reunindo relatos de personagens que a determinaram e documentos que a comprovam.O livro também ajuda a enfatizar o papel fundamental da pizza no início do setor de restaurantes de São Paulo por meio dos italianos, que estavam entre os pioneiros a abrirem seus negócios na cidade nas décadas de 1920 e 1930 (a descendência italiana segue ainda hoje como a mais presente na gastronomia paulistana).Como na sua origem napolitana, a pizza começou a ser difundida em São Paulo como comida de rua, vendida também por ambulantes, que levavam os discos feitos em casa em tambores de cobre portáteis, com carvão em brasa no fundo. Eram vendidas nas portas das residências e nas saídas dos jogos esportivos.Não demorou para se instalarem nas garagens das casas e depois ganharem estruturas mais complexas, de restaurantes, que deram origem às primeiras pizzarias paulistanas. Algumas delas, ainda remanescentes desse período, seguem abertas até hoje.É o caso da Castelões, no Brás (bairro típico da imigração italiana), da Babbo Giovanni, hoje transformada em rede, e do Jardim de Napoli, que embora tenha se tornado mais "cantina" (outra instituição essencialmente paulistana), começou com um forno de pizza.O livro também resvala —ainda que eventualmente falte um pouco de aprofundamento— nos comportamentos alimentares locais que a pizza determinou, como o do seu consumo pelos paulistanos aos domingos (por que somente aos jantares?) e também a prática corriqueira de comê-la em casa, seja comprada "para a viagem" ou pedida para a entrega.Em uma cidade na qual o delivery já era bastante massivo antes mesmo de a pandemia nos ter restringido a experiências de restaurantes à nossa própria sala, por exigência do distanciamento social, a pizza sempre reinou absoluta.Ou melhor, foi o "disk pizza" que criou nos paulistanos o hábito de não ter que se preocupar com o jantar ao reunir a família ou os amigos aos sábados à noite, que invariavelmente acabavam em "meia calabresa, meia muçarela" antes da profusão de opções trazidas pelos aplicativos."Uma Fatia da Itália" tem um caráter de uma reportagem didática e profunda, fruto de uma pesquisa exaustiva que fica clara na quantidade de fontes e dados que a jornalista reúne no decorrer dos capítulos temáticos.Embora isso traga às vezes um tom um pouco burocrático ao texto, é evidente o esforço que Pinho faz para abranger toda a cobertura do tema, sem deixar um pedaço de massa sequer sem seu olhar detalhista.Mais do que um relato histórico e um registro importante da relação de uma cidade com um de seus pratos mais afetivos e icônicos, seu trabalho pode ser visto como uma declaração apaixonada por uma receita que é tão nossa quanto do mundo. | comida |
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] | O blogueiro Júlio Bernardo, conhecido como JB, se define um "cronista de comida". No entanto, utilizando a ascensão das redes sociais na última década, conseguiu com os seguidores e admiradores do seu blog Boteco do JB um poder comparado ao dos críticos gastronômicos —seus comentários ácidos já abalaram o ânimo dos mais conceituados chefs.Ocorre que as discussões, antes virtuais, migraram para outra esfera bem mais real: a dos tribunais.No momento, o embate coloca em campos opostos JB e a chef Bel Coelho, que comanda o Cuia Café e Restaurante, em São Paulo.O cronista decidiu processar a chef, pedindo indenização por danos morais, e apresentou na ação postagens de Bel que lhe atribuem agenda de ódio, misoginia e machismo e até assédio moral e sexual.A chef, por sua vez, apresentou ao Judiciário, dentro de sua defesa, vários relatos de pessoas, buscando demonstrar que JB extrapolaria a liberdade de expressão para flertar com a agressividade gratuita.A primeira audiência do caso foi marcada para sexta-feira (3), no juizado de pequenas causas em São Paulo, procedimento escolhido por JB. Nem ele nem seu advogado compareceram, e a defesa de Bel pediu a extinção do processo, o que foi concedido pelo juiz.Receba no seu email a seleção diária das principais notícias jurídicas; aberta para não assinantes.Carregando...JB e seu advogado afirmaram preparar um embate na Justiça Civil —não aceitaram, no entanto, especificar à reportagem quando darão entrada na nova ação."A gente entendeu que, como vai vir esse fogo pesado do outro lado, a justiça comum é o foro mais adequado", diz o advogado Humberto Deporte. "Não é uma linha de defesa, é uma linha de atacar o Júlio."Para entender como a temperatura subiu assim na gastronomia paulistana, é preciso voltar no tempo. O ponto de partida dessa ação judicial é o desfecho de outro processo, de injúria e difamação, este movido contra JB por Alex Atala, do restaurante D.O.M.JB publicou em seu blog, em 2020, um texto supostamente de autoria de uma ex-funcionária de um chef não identificado, e que detalhava assédios sexuais do patrão. Não havia nome, mas muitas insinuações."Ele não só não assumiu a autoria como não escrevia meu nome, mas fazia as referências mais óbvias que deixavam claro que o texto falava de mim", afirma o chef Atala."Durante muitos anos eu aceitei quieto os absurdos dele, mas quando ele se esconde atrás do anonimato, se escora em uma causa importantíssima, que é o feminismo, e usa mentiras para atacar minha honra e da minha família, eu não poderia me calar."Atala contratou o advogado criminalista Roberto Podval e pediu explicações na Justiça. "Eu lembro que a primeira vez que ouvi falar dele foi quando ele escreveu uma crítica sobre o D.O.M. alegando ter sido maltratado pela equipe porque não estaria vestido como um cliente normal", conta.A partir daí, diz Atala, as críticas deixaram a esfera profissional. "Ele passou a me atacar pessoalmente. Difícil chamar de crítica, porque raramente era sobre a comida, sobre o trabalho, mas muito mais sobre minha pessoa."JB chegou a ter negócios com alimentação. O mais conhecido foi o Restaurante Sinhá, em Pinheiros, onde foi sócio e comandou a feitura dos alimentos. Ao ingressar em seu boteco virtual e adotar a alcunha JB, criticou do sucesso televisivo "Master Chef Brasil" ao McDonald's.Como o blogueiro não conseguiu comprovar suas acusações, aceitou um acordo negociado pelo Ministério Público e pagou R$ 1.000 para encerrar o processo.A chef Bel Coelho entra na história quando esse acordo vem a público, em agosto de 2021. Bel, que já passou pelo D.O.M., comandou as cozinhas dos extintos Madelleine, Sabuji e Dui, e atualmente cuida do projeto solo Clandestino, conta que há anos se sentia agredida por comentários de JB."Alguém até falou que estava passando pano para o Alex [Atala], mas eu respondi que se mulheres denunciarem qualquer homem, eu uso meu próprio perfil para denunciar junto, mas não será um texto anônimo", diz. "Simplesmente respondi que estava comemorando por não ter como aliado da luta feminista um assediador moral e sexual que me persegue há 12 anos digitalmente."JB registrou todos os posts e foi para a justiça com um pedido de indenização. "Me senti injuriado e ofendido por fake news divulgadas por ela numa rede social", explica.Em uma das postagens de JB sobre Bel Coelho, que consta dos documentos anexados à defesa da chef, ele a compara a uma "aspirante de modelo"."Não sei se sou muito careta, mas acho um tanto desrespeitoso com a profissão alguém que posa devidamente uniformizada na cozinha com uma maquiagem fortíssima. Cozinha não é lugar para aspirante de modelo e só por isso não tenho a menor vontade de conhecer o seu Dui. Vai que cai uma sombra ou um teco de batom no rango...".Na entrevista à Folha, JB disse que sua relação com a chef era "distante", e que tinha pouco contato com seu trabalho. "Que me lembre, fui apenas uma vez a um projeto seu, atendendo a pedido da própria chef, após muita insistência. Não existe 'visita profissional', não sou pago para escrever. Eu saio, como e bebo. Se achar relevante, escrevo sobre a experiência", argumenta.Para tratar da alegada misoginia, a defesa de Bel Coelho também reuniu depoimentos de outras mulheres, caso da carta assinada pela historiadora Adriana Oliveira.Em uma postagem publicada por JB, em 2016, era simulado um "obituário culinário" de seu marido, o chef Rodrigo Oliveira, do restaurante Mocotó. Um trecho foi interpretado como menção a Adriana, afirmando que "dinheiro na mão, calcinha no chão". Mais Outra testemunha no processo Bel Coelho x JB é a jornalista de gastronomia Ailin Aleixo —a "Ailin Desleixo", em postagens do cronista. Ailin afirma que JB a teria desqualificado ao longo de dez anos, "quase que diariamente, ultrapassando limites do compreensível".Um mulher que relata ter sofrido assédio sexual de JB, e que teve depoimento anexado por Bel Coelho ao processo, preferiu não dar entrevista à Folha. Nos autos, ela conta que conheceu o cronista no bar Fel, onde ele foi consultor e ela, bartender.Segundo o texto da mulher, teria havido dois momentos em que JB "passou a mão" em seu corpo, mais especificamente em seus "glúteos". Ela afirma que, em um destes supostos momentos, o blogueiro teria sido alertado por um amigo que não tocasse mais nela.JB diz conhecer a vítima, mas nega as acusações de assédio. "Não aconteceu isso", afirma.Em retrospecto, JB diz que a internet mudou muito nos últimos anos, e que sua postura também vem mudando. "Escrevo desde 2007, tenho um canal no Youtube desde 2014. Estamos em 2022. É natural para mim a busca por um movimento mais elegante", analisa."Se você acompanhar meu trabalho, vai ver que existe um processo, uma responsabilidade, e hoje eu tomo muito mais cuidado com tudo. A meta é que eu seja um exemplo a ser seguido. E acho que podemos e devemos criticar com mais inteligência em vez de deboche, ironia."Segundo Daniela Osvald, professora da Escola de Comunicações e Artes (ECA) da USP, em meados dos anos 2000 começaram a surgir na internet ferramentas que automatizam a publicação, com os primeiros websites pessoais, depois os blogs com comentários."Na popularização dessas ferramentas, foram se criando estratégias discursivas de como ter audiência, entre elas a de ser polêmico", diz ela, que também é coordenadora do Observatório de Comunicação, Censura e Liberdade de Expressão (Obcom), da USP. "Muitas vezes, trata-se de um conteúdo que beira a linguagem ofensiva", completa."Essa discussão global se volta a grupos politicamente e economicamente desfavorecidos ou vulneráveis. Mas vai migrando para outras esferas. Ela chega na moda, na gastronomia, no jornalismo, que buscam também um parâmetro para isso." | comida |
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] | De volta a São Paulo após um período estudando cinema em Londres, Gero Fasano, aos 20 anos, decidiu abrir um restaurante. Queria retomar a tradição iniciada com o bisavô Vittorio, que havia fundado a Brasserie Paulista no centro de São Paulo, em 1902, e perpetuada com o avô, o nonno Ruggero, que lançou a confeitaria e restaurante Fasano no final da década de 1930.O pai de Gero, Fabrizio, que havia se dedicado a outros negócios, como a indústria de bebidas, tentou convencer o filho a mudar de ideia, mas, diante da insistência do rapaz, decidiu apoiá-lo.Foi nesse momento, em 1982, que ele levou um susto ao descobrir que o nome Fasano não pertencia mais à família. Nos anos 1960, o nonno tinha vendido o negócio para a Liquigás e a marca entrou no pacote.Em uma reunião, o presidente da empresa de gás disse a ele: "Tenho uma boa e uma má notícia. A má é que não posso te dar a marca, a boa é que posso vender". Àquela altura, os Fasano estavam à beira da falência e seria impossível readquirir o nome por um valor alto. Conversa vai, conversa vem até que o empresário cedeu: "Te vendo pelo preço de um sorvete".Essa é uma das histórias do livro recém-lançado "Fasano dal 1902", com textos de Gero Fasano, do jornalista Luciano Ribeiro e do consultor financeiro e também jornalista Geraldo Forbes. A publicação é dedicada ao pai, Fabrizio.Embora o grupo esteja completando 120 anos, não foi essa a motivação para a publicação. "O que me moveu foram as coisas pelas quais eu passei [ele se refere ao câncer de fígado que o levou a fazer um transplante, em 2020] e, sobretudo, os meus 60 anos de vida e 40 de profissão", diz o restaurateur, como gosta de ser chamado.Ele também conta que aproveitou o livro para "colocar alguns pingos nos is" nas histórias sobre a expansão do grupo, hoje formado por 26 restaurantes e nove hotéis, baseados principalmente no Brasil, mas com braços nos EUA e no Uruguai.Há quem pense, afirma Fasano, que se trata de uma herança, um patrimônio de alta gastronomia italiana que vem se transferindo de geração para geração. "Não é!", enfatiza."O restaurante do nonno [Ruggero] não tinha pratos italianos, era cozinha internacional, como se falava na época. Quer ver uma coisa engraçada? Olha isso [ele mostra no celular a reprodução de um anúncio do Auto-Grill Fasano, veja abaixo]. Tem alguma coisa a ver com o Fasano de hoje? Essa foi a última versão do restaurante do meu avô antes de fechar. ‘Mesmo de camisa-esporte, você será bem recebido!’", Gero lê um trecho da propaganda da década de 1960.Curiosamente, o que fez a fama do Fasano não foi a gastronomia, mas os casamentos requintados, os jantares de gala e os shows que aconteciam no jardim de inverno instalado no Conjunto Nacional, na avenida Paulista, nos anos 1950."Meu avô casou 80% dos endinheirados paulistanos na época. Eisenhower [presidente dos EUA de 1953 a 1961] esteve num dos jantares, Nat King Cole e Sammy Davis Jr. cantaram lá", conta o empresário.Em meados do século passado, expoentes da política e da cultura dos Estados Unidos vinham ao Fasano. Agora é o Fasano que vai aos EUA. Em março do ano passado, o grupo abriu o residencial de luxo Fasano Fifth Avenue, em Nova York, fruto da parceria com a empresa do setor imobiliário JHSF.No final de fevereiro deste ano, inaugurou o restaurante Fasano, na rua 49, quase esquina com a Park Avenue. O restaurateur demonstra entusiasmo com os primeiros meses de atividade: "Não imaginava a proporção que tomou, a procura, as críticas, o boca a boca".O início bem-sucedido não significa, porém, que ajustes não tenham sido necessários. "Me assustei no comecinho ao notar como São Paulo é mais italiana do que Nova York. O macarrão está incutido na alimentação do paulistano, seja ele filho de italiano ou não. Lá não é assim, as massas e os risotos não saíam com tanta frequência", lembra."Cheguei à conclusão de que as pessoas, quando vão a um restaurante com uma proposta gastronômica, preferem pedir matérias-primas que normalmente essas casas servem, como king crabs ou lagosta. Comecei, então, a fazer risotos e massas com esses ingredientes, que passaram a vender muito."O próximo passo nos EUA é um hotel em Miami, com previsão de abertura em 2024, também um empreendimento com a JHSF.Bem antes disso, no entanto, o grupo vai ampliar seus domínios na capital paulista. Em parceria com a construtora Even, abre em novembro deste ano um complexo no Itaim Bibi, com torre residencial, hotel e restaurante.O empresário planeja para o bairro um casa dedicada a peixes e frutos do mar, o Fasano al Mare. "Se confirmada essa escolha, vou para a Itália e trago mais um chef para cá, alguém que seja especializado nesse tipo de cozinha." Mais Em sua atual avaliação dos restaurantes de São Paulo, o Michelin indica duas casas da cidade com duas estrelas e sete com uma —três estrelas é a cotação máxima do guia francês. Nenhum desses nove estrelados paulistanos pertence ao grupo Fasano.O Michelin não se impressiona com os restaurantes da capital paulista sob o comando de Gero Fasano. Ele, por sua vez, não demonstra simpatia pelo guia francês. "Não sou brigado com o Michelin, mas confesso que não é um dos meus guias preferidos, sobretudo, quando eu estou na Itália. O problema é que o Michelin boicota a Itália. Por quê? Por causa da Pirelli [fabricante de pneus, que concorre com a Michelin]", afirma o restaurateur."Na Itália inteira, eles [Michelin] conseguem achar cinco restaurantes estrelados e, só em Tóquio, acham cinco vezes isso", diz ele. "Não acho correto o que fazem na Itália e não acho correto ser julgado por franceses."Em sua avaliação mais recente, o Michelin destaca 372 casas estreladas em toda a Itália. Em Tóquio, são 202 restaurantes; no Japão, 427. Ou seja, se o critério é estrela no Michelin, a Itália perde para o Japão, mas supera Tóquio. | comida |
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] | Na pequena e pacata cidade de Cambará do Sul, na região dos Campos de Cima da Serra, distante a pouco mais de 230 km ao norte de Porto Alegre, o turista aficionado por aventuras gastronômicas pode caçar cogumelos comestíveis em meio à floresta de pinus, e depois saboreá-los ali mesmo, em seu habitat natural.A atividade é desenvolvida pelo glamping Parador (a palavra vem da mistura de "camping" e "glamour"), localizado próximo aos Parques Nacionais Aparados da Serra e Serra Geral, próximo aos cânions Itaimbezinho e Fortaleza.A caçada dura cerca de 1h30min e pode ser agendada pelos próprios hóspedes entre os meses de maio e junho, todos os dias da semana.A busca por fungos que brotam rapidamente no solo úmido ou em troncos de árvores, após um período de chuva e sol, não deixa de ser uma autêntica aula de biologia ao ar livre, sempre monitorada com um profissional.A bordo de um quadriciclo individual ou duplo, um guia leva os caçadores até as florestas de pinus. Durante o passeio, o turista aprende a identificar as diferentes espécies de fungos [venenosos ou comestíveis], como se desenvolvem e suas funções na natureza. A degustação dos fungos coletados é feita no local.‘’O principal cogumelo encontrado aqui na região é o porcini. Conseguimos coletar em grande quantidade, mas é preciso um bom treinamento antes de sair caçando sozinho. O ideal é que o turista interessado faça um curso de treinamento para saber identificar bem os cogumelos e suas características’’, aconselha o chef Rodrigo Bellora, há 20 anos na gastronomia.Além das roupas leves e um boné, também é recomendável que os aventureiros levem na mochila uma jaqueta impermeável ou uma capa de chuva, pois o clima na serra gaúcha muda rápido e pode surpreender.Um bom par de tênis com solado antiderrapante ou bota específica para trilhas também ajudam dando estabilidade, aderência e segurança ao caminhar.Além da caçada aos cogumelos selvagens, também é possível participar do ‘’Despertar dos Cogumelos Selvagens’’. O evento gastronômico, de caráter sazonal, ocorre de 24 a 26 de maio e de 21 a 23 de junho, e reúne chefs e biólogos especializados em um roteiro de três dias. Mais A ideia é apresentar mais a fundo as variedades de fungos que habitam as matas de pinus e, posteriormente, oferecer aos turistas pratos da alta gastronomia feitos com eles.É o caso, por exemplo, do tabule de feijão, um mix de feijões gaúchos temperados, cogumelos laminados, nozes, azeite de oliva e ervas aromáticas, e do nhoque de pinhão com fungos porcini.O biólogo Jeferson Müller Timm, 40 anos, especialista em cogumelos, afirma que há ao menos três tipos de fungos na mata exótica de pinus da região, entre eles o porcini (Boletus edulis), o Suílus spp e Lactários deliciosus.‘’Há muitas espécies de cogumelos que são tóxicos e inclusive podem até matar, como é o caso do fungo Amanita phalloides, conhecido como ‘cicuta verde’ ou ‘anjo da morte’", alerta o especialista.A espécie é originária da Europa, mas também pode ser encontrada nas Américas, inclusive em países como Argentina e Uruguai. Já no Rio Grande do Sul sua aparição é rara.Sobre a coleta e manuseio dos fungos comestíveis, Jeferson recomenda que, ao realizar a atividade de caça, o turista corte com uma tesoura a base do cogumelo e retire a terra com um pincel antes de colocar no cesto.‘’Assim não leva terra para dentro do cestinho. Não é legal lavar o cogumelo, porque ele absorve muita água e acaba perdendo textura e sabor. Ao usarmos o cesto, a gente favorece que as sementes dele se dispersem pelo caminho proporcionando o nascimento de novos cogumelos’’, explica.Outro conselho do biólogo é que se consuma, de preferência, o fungo cozido.Além de compor pratos saborosos, também é possível criar outros tipos de alimentos como biscoitos, sal e até azeite. Estes fungos comestíveis apresentam uma boa quantidade de proteínas, vitaminas, principalmente B2, B3 e B5 e C, antioxidantes e fibras.Em Cambará do Sul, além dos cogumelos, outro atrativo é o pinhão —mais especificamente a tradicional paçoca de pinhão. Com milhares de hectares de mata araucária, o local torna fácil encontrar a semente espalhada pela mata, principalmente no outono, época da colheita .‘’Muito saboreado nas festas juninas, o pinhão pode ser feito de várias maneiras, seja ele cozido, assado na brasa, ou adicionado a diversas receitas culinárias’’, comenta o chef Rodrigo Bellora.Outro costume da região Serrana do Rio Grande do Sul é comer a ‘’sapecada de pinhão’’, uma herança dos tropeiros —homens que conduziam a tropa, levando o gado de um lugar para o outro. Em outras palavras, é o pinhão preparado no mato, nas grimpas do pinheiro.‘’Basta juntar os resíduos de galhos secos da araucária, colocar os pinhões coletados na floresta e, então, acender uma fogueira. Esse hábito de comer pinhão foi herdado de algumas tribos indígenas daqui da região, como por exemplo, os caingangues, e também serve de alimento para muitos animais’’, explica Bellora.Para que o pinhão cozinhe totalmente, deve-se acender o fogo na parte de cima dos galhos [de cima para baixo]. Depois, é só remover a casca com a ajuda de um martelo ou até mesmo com uma pedra e ter cuidado para não se queimar. | comida |
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] | Pelo que todas as pesquisas eleitorais indicam, pode ser que a partir de janeiro de 2023 o Brasil passe a consumir mais lula com chuchu.Quando começou a ser ventilada, a parceria a princípio pareceu escalafobética e improvável. Mas a verdade é que os dois ingredientes tão distintos —um vem da serra, e o outro, do mar— podem formar uma dupla cheia de sabor, de borogodó e de significados, ao menos no mundo da gastronomia. De salada a lasanha, veja como chefs combinariam os dois ingredientes "Combinar frutos do mar com chuchu é um clássico da culinária brasileira, como o ensopadinho de camarão eternizado por Carmen Miranda", lembra Janaína Rueda, do Bar da Dona Onça."Com esses dois ingredientes em mãos, eu faria um arroz de lula com chuchu crocante. Para deixar o prato ainda mais saboroso, usaria no cozimento do arroz um bom caldo de cabeça de peixe. Seria um prato bem brasileiro, com sabor de união e de empatia", completa a chef.De fato, quando unem forças, a lula deixa o chuchu menos insosso e o chuchu atenua a agressividade da lula."A lula é intensa no sabor, e o chuchu traz leveza. Essa união tem uma complexidade muito interessante. Se me pedissem um prato com esses dois ingredientes, eu faria uma lula empanada na tapioca e a serviria com um vinagrete de chuchu. Fica uma delícia!", avalia a chef Bel Coelho, do Cuia Café."Pra mim, essa combinação tem gosto de esperança e de vitória, ela é um verdadeiro remédio contra a barbárie."As chefs Gabriela Barretto (do Chou e do Futuro Refeitório) e Kátia Barbosa (do Aconchego Carioca), também apoiam a aproximação entre a lula e o chuchu. "Existem momentos em que o importante é somar. Às vezes, a lula sozinha não resolve tudo, e é aí que entra o chuchu, para descomplicar um pouco as coisas", insinua Gabriela."Essa combinação é comida de verdade, com sustança. Eu usaria o chuchu e a lula para fazer uma salada com o frescor que estamos precisando nesse momento, temperadinha com cebola roxa, coentro, pimenta dedo-de-moça e limão tahiti." Mais "Pra mim, quem criou essa mistura entende de humildade, de esperança e de fé em dias melhores. A lula é cheia de personalidade, mas o chuchu traz singeleza e um toque comfort à mistura. Eu faria um bolinho, bem temperado, com bastante pimenta, alho, cebola, limão e coentro", imagina Barbosa, que também trabalha como jurada do programa "Mestre do Sabor", da TV Globo.Rodrigo Oliveira acredita que essa parceria de lula com chuchu pode ser uma solução para azia e queimação. "A lula tem mais sabor, enquanto o chuchu possui um paladar discreto e apaziguante. Eles se equilibram e se complementam", resume o chef dos restaurantes Mocotó e Balaio."Eu uniria as qualidades dos dois para preparar lulinhas na brasa e as serviria com chuchu refogado em cebola, alho e pimenta-de-cheiro para uma alegrada. Por cima de tudo, bastante cheiro verde", sugere.Além de combater problemas gástricos, a dupla lula-chuchu pode fazer mais, segundo a mineira Bruna Martins, chef do restaurante Florestal, do boteco Birosca e do wine bar Gira, de Belo Horizonte."Lula e chuchu dão origem a um prato cheio que vai tirar o Brasil do Mapa da Fome das Nações Unidas. Essa combinação tem gosto de vitória, de perspectiva, de fartura. Vamos deixar quem sabe cozinhar fazer a comida", milita a chef, que recomenda o preparo de um gostoso suflê com a dupla de ingredientes.Já Larissa Januário, influencer e apresentadora do programa "Jantar o Quê?", do canal Sabor & Arte, propõe uma união ainda mais radical da chapa formada pelo molusco e o legume: "Eu montaria uma ‘lulasanha’, com camadas intercaladas de chuchu em lâminas finas e um molho de lulinhas refogadas com tomate"."Antes da montagem, eu passaria o chuchu na frigideira para deixá-lo tostado e mais crocante, depois temperaria só com azeite, sal e pimenta do reino. Ao final, no forno, eu polvilharia essa lasanha com um pouco de mollica [espécie de farofa típica da região italiana da Basilicata feita com migalhas de pão, alho e ervas] para dar aquela gratinada e trazer ainda mais uma textura", sugere a cozinheira.Para ela, "essa é uma receita criada para agradar todo mundo, um jeito novo de fazer coisas velhas". Mais Mas Larissa avisa que é preciso tomar alguns cuidados básicos para que a parceria dê certo: não adicione queijo, porque ele não cai bem com as lulas; e tome cuidado para manter as texturas dos ingredientes. Se cozinhar demais, o chuchu fica molenga e a lula, dura. Como na icônica frase, "Hay que endurecer, pero sin perder la ternura jamás!".Outro alerta importante vem de Roberta Sudbrack, gaúcha radicada no Rio e uma das maiores estudiosas sobre ingredientes brasileiros pouco valorizados —como o chuchu, quiabo, maxixe, jiló, jaca e fruta-pão."O chuchu é mal interpretado e mal utilizado. As receitas mais populares o manipulam da pior maneira possível. O legume tem quase 90% de água na sua composição, então porque será que a maioria dos brasileiros sempre o utiliza em ensopados? É como juntar água com água!", queixa-se a chef, dona do restaurante Sud, o Pássaro Verde.Para ela, as possibilidades para a dupla chuchu-lula são infinitas na cozinha. O importante é potencializar o sabor do chuchu, ao contrário do que acontece num ensopado."Partindo dessa premissa, eu buscaria uma receita que preserva a crocância original dos dois. Faria uma salada com lâminas de chuchu grelhado e defumado, junto com uma conserva de lulas marinadas por alguns dias em temperos brasileiros", começa."Finalizaria com folhas de beterraba e de hortelã e um molho à base de leite de amendoim torrado. O que gente está precisando neste momento é disso: de muito frescor, alegria e libertação."Chef do restaurante 31, no centro de São Paulo, Raphael Vieira acredita que lula pode até melhorar chuchu, "que é bem sem sal", mas isso, para ele, não significa que não existam combinações melhores para uma lula."Para usar chuchu, só pode estar desesperado", entende. Para ele, porém, as condições atuais talvez perdoem a escolha. "No atual contexto econômico, em que até tomate está caro, usar chuchu no desespero é válido." | comida |
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] | No pico da pandemia do novo coronavírus, bares e restaurantes que conseguiram sobreviver à crise precisaram adaptar dezenas de pontos de seu funcionamento —e foi assim que nasceram os cardápios em QR Code na maioria dos estabelecimentos em São Paulo.Acontece que, de lá para cá, nestes quase dois anos de vida, a novidade que tinha como objetivo proteger a saúde do consumidor tem mexido com os nervos dele a ponto de transformar a experiência de sair para comer em algo às vezes mais irritante que prazeroso.No perfil do Instagram "Coisas que Sou Contra", que usa o humor para debater polêmicas que vão dos canudos de papel ao hábito de mandar áudios no WhatsApp, um dos posts recentes mais comentados foi justamente o que se dizia contra os cardápios em QR Code."Enquanto você está vendo o cardápio, vêm notificações de mensagens e outros aplicativos que acabam te distraindo e te afastando da conversa da mesa", aponta a servidora pública Bárbara Hashimoto Martins, 29 anos. Para ela, este é um dos principais pontos negativos do sistema."Com o cardápio físico você consegue olhar junto com o colega da mesa o que vai pedir e decidir em grupo o pedido, o que dificulta com o digital. E tem a dificuldade do manuseio e a necessidade de estar sempre com internet disponível", enumera.Martins também diz se sentir vulnerável quando as mesas ficam na calçada, com medo da violência e roubos de celular."É um momento que você está concentrado ali no que vai pedir, principalmente se estiver com fome, e acaba que você perde um pouco da noção do que está acontecendo em volta. Então, olho rapidinho e já tento decidir o que eu quero." Mais Ela, que é frequentadora de filiais da rede de restaurantes Outback e de bares como O Rei das Batidas, no Butantã, lembra que ambos usam cardápios em QR Code. "É algo com prós e contras. O pró é a vantagem de não precisar deixar o cardápio sujo em cima da mesa antes da comida."Para Ana Sweart, gerente de marketing do grupo São Bento, que administra o Tuy Bar Cocina, nos Jardins, o principal benefício dos cardápios em QR Code é "eliminar materiais impressos com grande frequência"."Ilustramos todos os nossos itens com fotos, e a ferramenta online nos traz a agilidade de mudarmos preços e fotos de forma instantânea, sem depender de terceiros como agência publicitária e gráfica, que muitas vezes atrasam a mudança", avalia.Sweart lembra que, quando o sistema foi implementado, houve "estranhamento e reclamação" por parte da clientela —hoje, garante, são poucos os casos. "Muitos notaram que a ferramenta seria um progresso, o novo normal e aderiram com facilidade elogiando a iniciativa."Matheus Ramos, sócio proprietário da QT Pizza Bar, aponta também a retirada de itens importados que se tornaram de difícil transporte por conta da Covid como uma das vantagens dos novos cardápios."Quem reclama mais são pessoas com mais idade, que acabam tendo dificuldade tecnológica. Porém, nosso público é mais jovem, então a adaptação foi tranquila. Ele nos economiza na impressão e também no tempo, já que o garçom não precisa levar a mesa, está sempre lá disponível num display", comenta.Ramos acredita que é uma tecnologia que veio para ficar. "Facilita, economiza e ajuda na operação. Além disso, podemos colocar links de avaliação direta. Acho que os cardápios físicos terão que voltar porque existe uma clientela que ainda prefere eles, mas são minoria. A quantidade de cardápios impressos será bem menor."Recentemente, a advogada Marina El Tayar, 41 anos, precisou recorrer ao cardápio impresso do restaurante Ritz, na unidade do Shopping JK Iguatemi, porque o QR Code estava inacessível."O lado ruim é que o cardápio digital supõe que o cliente possui um smartphone, com acesso à internet, e é preciso estar com o celular carregado para utilizá-lo. Além disso, pessoas mais velhas nem sempre conseguem acessar o QR Code e, nesse sentido, o cardápio impresso se faz indispensável", resume."O lado bom talvez seja a redução de custos para o restaurante, mas acho que, para o cliente, dependendo do estabelecimento, uma parte da experiência é prejudicada pois o cardápio muitas vezes conta a história do restaurante." Mais Coordenador do Centro de Excelência em Varejo da FGV-EAESP (Escola de Administração de Empresas de São Paulo da Fundação Getulio Vargas) Mauricio Morgado compara a adoção dos cardápios em QR Code a uma polêmica famosa do mundo da aviação. "É bem parecido com aquela história da bagagem não incluída, que só é bom para a companhia aérea", diz.Morgado acredita que a irritação do consumidor vai falar mais alto —e inclusive prejudicar os estabelecimentos. "Aquele processo de abrir, baixar, cria uma situação de estresse, acho desnecessária", pontua."E tenho certeza de que estão perdendo vendas. Aquilo é ruim de ver, você não sabe tudo que está disponível, então acho que vai diminuir o tíquete médio. As pessoas não vão ter paciência de montar uma combinação de entrada, prato, acompanhamento, ver bebida com calma, é muito chato naquela telinha, a interação é muito ruim, ficar esticando PDF."A economia com impressão e a facilidade de atualização são pontos positivos reconhecidos pelo coordenador, mas não seriam, na sua opinião, suficientes para compensar o sistema."É tão viciante que o lojista não vai conseguir fazer essa conta da perda. E não sei se ele está lá para ver no dia a dia o nível de irritação, então acho que vai continuar do jeito que está por conta da praticidade para eles. Mas é uma falta de visão de como o consumidor decide a compra." | comida |
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] | Espere o final do almoço de família, aquele momento preguiçoso do doce com cafezinho, e lance a pergunta no ar: "Pudim de leite com ou sem furinho?". Está garantida a polêmica até a hora do jantar.Polarizado também no universo das sobremesas, o Brasil se divide em dois times apaixonados, que não economizam nos argumentos para justificar suas preferências.Sócia da doceria Fôrma de Pudim, Daniela Aliperti é do time sem furinhos. "O pudim fica furadinho quando você bate muito a massa, formando bolhas, e assa em alta temperatura, o que faz as proteínas do ovo coagularem rápido demais. Vira um omeletão", desdenha a doceira.Autora de "O Livro do Pudim" (Panda Books, 88 páginas, R$ 29,90), Aliperti confessa que pôs as duas receitas, com e sem, a pedido do editor. Mas sua preferência é declarada pela textura cremosa e lisa, que ela desenvolveu adaptando o preparo do creme brûlé francês —na doceria, o pudim individual (85 g) sai por R$ 14. "A loja já tem dez anos e, se duas pessoas entraram lá pedindo pudim com furinhos, foi muito."É o oposto do que conta Leonardo Olim, um produtor de TV especializado em programas de culinária que se assumiu doceiro em fevereiro de 2022, com o lançamento do delivery Pudim do Olim. Antes de profissionalizar sua receita, já famosa entre amigos, ele se baseou em uma enquete nas redes sociais."Uma amiga, que tem muitos seguidores, lançou a pergunta e descobriu que 80% preferem pudim com furinhos", revela Olim, que cobra R$ 14 pelo doce individual (140 g). "Já deixei de vender algumas vezes porque o cliente só gosta sem. Mas, em compensação, tem gente que reclama e pede mais furos."Esta não é a única polêmica que envolve o pudim de leite. Há ainda o time —bastante numeroso— que considera o leite condensado um ingrediente fundamental, em oposição aos adversários ferrenhos do produto industrializado.Chef do restaurante Maria Farinha Cozinha, em Pinheiros, Lisandra Amaral aprendeu com a família, que vive em Cachoeira Paulista, no Vale do Paraíba, a receita tradicional que leva apenas leite integral, ovos e açúcar. A fatia sai por R$ 17."Fica pouco doce, com textura lisinha, bem leve. Mas só dá certo usando leite com teor de gordura mais alto e ovos caipiras de verdade. Até os caipiras vendidos no supermercado têm claras muito aguadas, o pudim não dá ponto."O leite condensado entrou tardiamente na receita do pudim. Embora inventado em 1856, foi só na década de 1960 que a Nestlé investiu na recriação de receitas tradicionais brasileiras, trocando o açúcar pelo produto. A estratégia deu tão certo que o Brasil se tornou o maior mercado consumidor, segundo a empresa de pesquisas Euromonitor. Mais Antes dele, imperava o pudim de leite adoçado com açúcar, cuja origem também é tema de discussão. Pode ser herança portuguesa, adaptada do pudim marfim, mas também uma versão do flan espanhol ou do francês crème caramel.Para o sociólogo Carlos Alberto Dória, trata-se de um parente do crème renversée francês, receita que aparece no livro "Le Guide Culinaire", que Auguste Escoffier publicou em 1903 —embora não fosse o pai da invenção. "Escoffier reproduziu uma receita da tradição francesa popular", ele explica.No Brasil, já se faz pudim há muito tempo. Mais de uma dezena de receitas aparecem no livro "O Cozinheiro Nacional", publicado originalmente no século 19 (Senac-SP, 496 páginas, R$ 218). A de pudim de leite lista ovos, polvilho, açúcar, canela, casquinhas de limão e noz-moscada como ingredientes.Detratores do leite condensado costumam alegar que o ingrediente entrou na receita para simplificar o preparo. Mas o fato é que, com ou sem o leite da latinha (ou da caixinha), preparar um bom pudim de leite sempre exige uma certa perícia do doceiro.Para garantir a textura lisinha que a clientela da Fôrma de Pudim aprecia, Aliperti incorpora os ingredientes delicadamente, usando apenas um batedor de arame, para que não se formem bolhas.O leite condensado deve ser obrigatoriamente integral e os ovos, caipiras de preferência. Para a textura ficar ainda mais cremosa, basta substituir metade do leite por creme de leite sem soro. Na hora de assar em banho-maria, vale a combinação de temperatura bem baixinha e paciência.A versão sem leite condensado do restaurante Maria Farinha também requer tempo. Lisandra Amaral bate quatro ovos inteiros e o dobro de gemas com apenas meia xícara de açúcar. Incorporada ao leite, a mistura vai para a forma caramelada e assa em banho-maria, por três horas, em forno bem baixo.Já Olim provoca os furinhos apressando todo o processo. Batida no liquidificador, para ficar bem aerada, a massa vai ao forno por pouco mais de uma hora.Gourmetizações são bem-vindas. Na Fôrma de Pudim, a essência de baunilha pode dar lugar à aromática fava de baunilha, ingrediente 100% natural de preço bem mais salgado, cuja presença é sinalizada pelos minúsculos pontinhos pretos misturados ao pudim.No Maria Farinha Cozinha, o leite só entra no preparo depois de ser infusionado com sementes de curamu, mesmo ingrediente que perfuma o pudim do Holy Burger, que tornou sua sobremesa ainda mais famosa nas redes sociais ao trocar a forma tradicional, com furo no meio, pela própria latinha do leite condensado —o pudim (R$ 25) chega à mesa na lata, para ser desenformado diante do cliente.Entre tantas versões e invenções, só um ponto em comum parece reunir todos os times em um só coro: pudim de leite que se preza tem que ser servido sob muita calda de caramelo. E fim de papo.Fôrma de Pudim. R. Normandia, 102, Moema, www.formadepudim.com.br.Holy Burger. R. Dr. Cesário Mota Junior, 527, Vila Buarque, www.holyburger.com.br.Maria Farinha Cozinha. R. João Elias Saada, 126, Pinheiros, tel. (11) 93279-0060, www.instagram/mariafarinhasp.Pudim do Olim. www.instagram/pudimdolim.BaseINGREDIENTES1 lata de leite condensado. 450 ml de leite integral. 1 colher (café) de essência de baunilha. 2 ovos. 4 gemas.PREPAROMisture manualmente o leite condensado com o leite e a baunilha. Em outra tigela, bata os ovos e as gemas com um fouet e adicione à mistura anterior. Coe e reserve.Calda de carameloINGREDIENTES150 g de açúcar.PREPAROPonha o açúcar em uma panela e adicione água suficiente para molhá-lo. Mexa, ligue o fogo e cozinhe sem mexer, até se transformar em caramelo. Despeje a calda na forma e adicione a base do pudim. Cubra com papel-alumínio e cozinhe em banho-maria, a 150º C, de 1h a 1h30, ou até que o centro esteja firme.BaseINGREDIENTES1 lata de leite condensado. 450 ml de leite integral. 4 ovos. 1 colher (café) de essência de baunilha.PREPAROBata os ingredientes no liquidificador e reserve.Calda de carameloINGREDIENTES150 g de açúcar.PREPARORepita o procedimento da receita anterior e cozinhe em banho-maria, no forno alto, de 45 minutos a 1 hora, ou até que o centro esteja firme. | comida |
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] | Os produtores brasileiros de azeite estão sorrindo de orelha a orelha —a safra 2022 promete bater todos os recordes de produção e chegar perto de inéditos 290 mil litros, um crescimento de 20% em relação a 2021.A natureza deu uma forcinha nas duas principais regiões produtoras do país, Rio Grande do Sul e Serra da Mantiqueira.Segundo o consultor Paulo Freitas, o último inverno foi mais seco, com dias quentes e noites bem frias, o que fez com que as azeitonas chegassem ao ponto certo de maturação mais perto do fim do verão, com até 30 dias de atraso em relação ao ano passado. "Com isso, os produtores conseguiram concentrar boa parte da colheita fora da época das chuvas", explica.Outros fatores contribuíram. Após pouco mais de uma década de experiência, os pioneiros já lidam com oliveiras mais desenvolvidas, produzindo muito mais frutos por pé.Ao mesmo tempo, eles começam finalmente a dominar os segredos do cultivo —trabalhando em circunstâncias muito particulares de solo e clima, os olivocultores brasileiros pouco puderam aproveitar das tradições de outros países e foram obrigados a desenvolver protocolos praticamente do zero."Acho que, agora, todo mundo está acertando a mão na hora da colheita e no modo de processar as azeitonas", arrisca Rafael Marchetti, da gaúcha Prosperato, uma das maiores do país.Seu olival de 250 hectares, localizado em Caçapava do Sul (RS), deu tanta azeitona este ano que a colheita se prolongou muito além do esperado —começou na primeira semana de fevereiro e só deve terminar no fim de abril. "Nunca ficamos tantos dias colhendo", atesta o produtor, que estima chegar a 500 toneladas de frutos. Ano passado, foram 350.Os produtores da Serra da Mantiqueira estão igualmente animados. Moacir Carvalho Dias, da Fazenda Irarema, na fronteira entre São Sebastião da Grama (SP) e Poços de Caldas (MG), viu a produção dobrar em relação ao ano passado –a safra atual de 80 toneladas de frutos, já colhidos, rendeu 8 mil litros de azeite extravirgem.A quantidade de marcas cresce a cada ano. Autor de "Extrafresco – O guia de azeites do Brasil", cuja nova edição chega às livrarias em junho, Sandro Marques registrou 120, 20% a mais do que em 2021.Entre as mais jovens estão a Lagar H, de Cachoeira do Sul (RS), e a Sabiá, cujos olivais ocupam duas propriedades, uma em Santo Antônio do Pinhal (SP) e outra em Encruzilhada do Sul (RS).Também há novas regiões produtoras entrando na lista —é o caso do azeite Davo, de Ribeirão Branco (SP), que fica no Vale do Ribeira, e do Aracê, produzido em Domingos Martins (ES), cuja primeira safra ainda não atingiu escala comercial.A região Sul, onde grandes propriedades de relevo plano permitem a mecanização da colheita, segue campeã em termos de volume. Dos 240 mil litros de azeite produzidos no Brasil em 2021, 202 mil vieram de produtores gaúchos.Mas a produção da Mantiqueira começa a mudar de cara. Embora os terrenos íngremes continuem inviabilizando a mecanização, há cada vez mais olivocultores investindo pesado em grandes plantações e lagares com alta capacidade.Propriedade da família Marinho, a Fazenda Rainha, em São Sebastião da Grama (SP), já tem 90 hectares plantados. É lá que, desde 2020, se produz o azeite Orfeu, novo braço da marca que se tornou famosa pelo café —a safra 2022, lançada em 5 de abril, chegou a 20 mil litros de azeite. No e-commerce próprio, as garrafas de 350 ml custam entre R$ 189 e R$ 249.Os rótulos nacionais têm feito bonito no exterior e abocanhado prêmios em importantes competições internacionais, como a italiana EVO International Olive Oil Contest, a NYIOOC World Olive Oil Competition, nos Estados Unidos, e a Terraolivo, em Israel. Para a sommelière de azeites Ana Beloto, eles já têm identidade própria. Mais "Nos concursos internacionais dos quais sou jurada, sempre com provas às cegas, o azeite brasileiro demonstra frescor de aroma e notas sensoriais muito características, como a couve dos quintais mineiros e frutas tropicais, como maracujá."Os rótulos monovarietais ganharam especial destaque na safra 2022 —com pomares mais desenvolvidos, os produtores já conseguem colher volumes maiores de cada variedade de azeitona e processá-las separadamente, o que permite ao consumidor identificar as características de cada uma. É como comprar um vinho pela uva preferida.Mais delicada, a arbequina é considerada a porta de entrada para os azeites nacionais. Na outra ponta, variedades como a picual rendem azeites potentes, com maior teor de amargor e picância.Mesmo os blends mais suaves, no entanto, entregam um frescor que não costuma ser percebido nos azeites importados. A razão está na rapidez com que os frutos ainda verdes são colhidos, processados, envasados e postos à venda.A Irarema acaba de lançar um novo rótulo, o Azeite 2H, que nasceu de um desafio entre Dias e seu pai. "Parei a fazenda para viabilizar a logística. Entre a colheita e o engarrafamento, levamos só duas horas", comemora o produtor, que limitou o lote a 800 unidades. Envazado em garrafão de porcelana de 750 ml, é vendido por R$ 179,90 na loja online da marca.A produção ainda reduzida não permite que os azeites nacionais cheguem à maioria das redes de varejo, mas há exceções. O gaúcho Batalha pode ser encontrado no Pão de Açúcar a R$ 59,99 (500 ml). A rede St Marche e o empório de luxo Casa Santa Luzia reservam espaço ainda maior para os rótulos brasileiros –um dos primeiros a chegar ao St Marche este ano, o Borriello, da Mantiqueira, sai por R$ 129,90 (500 ml).O preço alto ainda é um problema. A culpa, alegam os produtores, é da falta de escala, já que nenhum olivocultor brasileiro chega perto do volume que as grandes marcas importadas produzem. Nem mesmo o recorde de colheita deste ano deve mudar o cenário –em função do aumento dos insumos, os novos azeites estão chegando ao mercado, em média, 20% mais caros do que os da safra passada."As garrafas aumentaram 60%, as tampas dobraram de preço e a ureia que usamos como fertilizante subiu 500%", reclama Moacir Carvalho Dias, da Fazenda Irarema, que cobra R$ 54,90 pela garrafa de 250 ml dos blends Intenso ou Suave.Os restaurantes paulistanos têm sido importantes meios de divulgação para os azeites brasileiros. Carla Retuci, produtora do Borriello, de Andradas (MG), vende para eles até 70% da produção. Para esse mercado, Retuci criou embalagens bag-in-box de 5 litros e garrafinhas especiais para ser levadas à mesa."Também ofereço treinamento para equipes de cozinha e salão, porque a maioria não tem noção de como se produz azeite. Os restaurantes são muito importantes para nós, porque as pessoas provam e logo perguntam onde podem comprar", diz a produtora.Outra forma de conquistar novos consumidores é o olivoturismo. Localizada em São Bento do Sapucaí (SP), a Oliq promove visitas guiadas com degustação de hora em hora e já dispõe de restaurante. Em um mês de férias, com julho, a propriedade chega a receber 1.000 visitantes, que pagam R$ 39 pela experiência. Mais A Irarema, que também mantém restaurante e porteiras sempre abertas, chega a receber mais de 1.400 pessoas em um único feriado prolongado. Os visitantes, segundo Dias, arrematam metade da produção de cada safra."Esse negócio de turismo é a melhor coisa do mundo, o que nos sustenta", admite.Para o publicitário Bob Vieira da Costa, proprietário da Sabiá, a cultura do azeite extravirgem é recente até mesmo para os europeus e abrir a porteira da fazenda para turistas encurta a distância entre público e produtor. "Nas degustações que promovemos, oferecemos azeites nossos e, no meio, colocamos um de escala industrual. Todos se surpreendem e acabam virando clientes fiéis."Quem não quiser visitar os produtores já consegue encontrar os primeiros vidros de azeite da safra 2022 nos sites das marcas. É hora de produtos especiais como o azeite novello da gaúcha Ouro de Sant’Ana (R$ 60, 250 ml). Extraído de azeitonas bem verdes e envasado sem ser filtrado, tem aromas e sabores concentrados —mas a edição é limitada e tem prazo de validade curto, de apenas quatro meses.Mesmo quando toda a safra 2022 estiver à venda, é bom não esperar muito. Como a produção nacional é pequena, geralmente se esgota entre agosto e setembro. Depois, só no ano que vem.Para comprarBorriello – azeiteborriello.com.brDavo – hotelevinicoladavo.com.brLagar H – lagarh.comOrfeu – loja.cafeorfeu.com.brOuro de Sant’Ana - loja.ourodesantana.com.brProsperato – emporio.prosperato.com.brPara visitarIrarema – fazendairarema.com.brOliq – oliq.com.brSabiá – azeitesabia.com.brPara aprender"Azeite-se – Histórias, curiosidades, receitas", de Ana Beloto (edição independente), 290 pág., R$ 129,90 | comida |
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] | Nem só de tiros e cabeças de cavalo é feito o filme "O Poderoso Chefão", que agora está de volta aos cinemas por conta de seu aniversário de 50 anos. A obra-prima de Francis Ford Coppola também tem em seu roteiro uma rápida, porém importante, pitada de história culinária.À beira do fogão, o personagem Clemenza, interpretado por Richard Castellano, aparece em uma cena preparando um molho de tomate. Ele convida Michael (Al Pacino), o herdeiro da família Corleone, a prestar atenção na receita: alho refogado, tomates frescos, pasta de tomate, linguiças e almôndegas, vinho e um pouco de açúcar.Não há como cravar com precisão o nascimento do debate gastronômico sobre como —e se é necessário mesmo— quebrar a acidez de um molho de tomate, mas não parece arriscado chutar que ele deve existir desde antes de Marlon Brando sonhar em botar algodões no maxilar.Enquanto o açúcar é o segredo de Clemenza, há quem ache o ingrediente desnecessário. "Eu não uso", resume o chef Flávio Santoro, professor do Le Cordon Bleu São Paulo."Se você pesquisa sobre a origem da acidez, ela vem sobretudo da semente e da casca, principalmente da semente quando quebrada. Então, é só retirar ambas que você já vai ter bem pouca acidez. Outro fator é a variedade de tomate usada, algumas são naturalmente mais ácidas que outras. Tomates como o carmem têm uma acidez muito bem-vinda às saladas. Mas, para molho, o rasteiro e o italiano são mais propícios", explica.Quando, ainda assim, precisa consertar o tom do molho, Santoro recorre às cenouras. "A cenoura tem uma taxa natural de dulçor que quebra a acidez. Uma situação em que isso acontece é quando o tomate que você tem ali na hora não está muito maduro. O tomate mais verde é mais ácido."O seu segredo, continua Santoro, é o mirepoix, um preparo típico da culinária francesa em que cenoura, aipo ou salsão, e cebola ou alho poró são cortados em minúsculos cubos —o chef, neste caso, mistura tudo aos tomates."Refogo tudo muito bem até ficar bem marronzinho e provocar a caramelização natural. Depois ponho os tomates. Muita gente acha que o molho é uma preparação que deve ser cozida somente até o tomate desmanchar e depois ele pode ser batido ou triturado. Eu percebo que o resultado é muito melhor quando se cozinha por bastante tempo. Deixo ao menos seis horas, se puder, até mais", ensina. Mais "O açúcar às vezes é bom, mas o bom é botar cenoura, ela pega o lugar do açúcar", concorda o chef Erick Jacquin. Ele recomenda que se faça um refogado com cebola e a cenoura, e que se acrescente também vinho tinto."O tomate fresco tem que estar bem maduro. Pega os tomates velhos que tem na cozinha, é bom que evita o desperdício. Boto tomilho, louro, nunca alecrim. Um pouquinho de alho, manjericão. Deixo cozinhar muito tempo, devagar, metade tomate fresco, metade tomate em lata", diz Jacquin, levantando outro ponto polêmico, o da comida conservada."E pronto, não vou falar todos os meus segredos, porque depois não é mais segredo."Autora de famosos livros de culinária, entre eles o "Fundamentos da Cozinha Italiana Clássica", a italiana Marcella Hazan também não via problemas em recorrer às latas de tomate pelado.Uma de suas receitas de molho mais tradicionais leva duas xícaras do ingrediente, cebola, sal e manteiga. Muita manteiga. Marcella recomendava, em uma preparação para seis pessoas, praticamente uma colher de sopa por comensal.Escritora e chef, Helô Bacelar avisa que talvez irrite os puristas, mas responde que "tudo depende do ingrediente que se tem à mão". "Alguém no sul da Itália tem a plantação de tomate ali do lado, e vai colher o tomate no auge do verão, ultramaduro, doce, e vai fazer o molho usando aquele tomate", exemplifica."É um tomate que tem acidez? Tem, mas ele tem uma concentração de açúcar maior, como acontece com qualquer fruta. E, se você tem um tomate desses na sua mão, é bem possível que não precise quebrar acidez porque ele por si só é quase uma sobremesa."Helô, no entanto, diz que, como nem todos têm acesso ao que ela chama de "mundo ideal", é preciso pensar em alternativas. "Você até pode encontrar o melhor tomate, mas a chance de ele estar caríssimo é gigantesca. Temos que cozinhar de acordo com o bolso de cada um", acredita.Sendo assim, se os tomates mais perfeitos não estiverem disponíveis, é permitido, sim, usar tomates pelados. "A pessoa que gosta de cozinhar tem que ter umas latas na despensa, porque elas quebram um milhão de galhos.""E, para equilibrar a acidez, você tem que usar um elemento doce que pode ser o açúcar, o mel, o melado, a cenoura. Nunca usei bicarbonato com essa finalidade", conta.O chef Roberto Ravioli também entra no debate sobre o açúcar no molho: "Mas é claro que põe! Ele serve justamente para tirar o amargo e a acidez. E, se não tiver açúcar, põe adoçante, duas gotinhas".Ravioli revela que só usa tomates pelados. "Os frescos não têm padrão. Tem uns lindos por fora, você abre e estão uma bosta. As pessoas têm que parar com preciosismo: se o molho fica ácido, ele fica ruim. E quem quer comer molho ruim?". | comida |
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] | A Casa de Carnes Serra da Cantareira, no Tremembé, zona norte de São Paulo, existe há 55 anos no mesmo endereço: avenida Senador José Ermírio de Moraes, 468. Há 15, pertence aos mesmos donos, que tocam o negócio com três funcionários.Entre eles, o gerente Thiago Yoshio Satake, 36, guarulhense, que após concluir o ensino fundamental fez vários cursos voltados para a culinária, higiene e manipulação de alimentos, especializando-se em comida de rua.Há quatro anos, durante uma viagem a Maceió, Satake viu ambulantes vendendo galetos assados nas ruas. Galeto é um frango jovem, abatido com poucas semanas de vida, entre o décimo e o vigésimo primeiro dias.De volta a São Paulo, Satake resolveu abrir uma tenda de assados para vender, em vez de galetos, os seus irmãos maiores em peso e tamanho, mas também desafortunados "frangos atropelados" (desossados e grelhados abertos). Em sociedade com o paulistano Marcelo Campos, 45, dono da Casa de Carnes Serra da Cantareira, açougue onde Satake é gerente, abriram a Templo dos Assados, com uma tenda montada na frente da casa de carnes.No início, antes ainda da pandemia do coronavírus, na tenda montada apenas aos sábados, domingos e feriados, eram vendidos 70 frangos atropelados por dia, além de 30 costelas no bafo, 400 espetinhos e 300 quilos de pancetta, durante o período de funcionamento. "Atualmente esses números variam, por conta da pandemia, mas atendemos em média, entre 200 a 250 pessoas", diz Satake.Dentro da tenda branca há quatro churrasqueiras, duas fritadeiras e uma estufa expondo espetinhos de carne, frango, linguiça, coração, queijo coalho e pão de alho, que custam entre R$ 6 e R$ 7.Entre as carnes assadas nas churrasqueiras, que consomem seis pacotes de carvão de oito quilos ao dia, há costela assada (por oito horas) no bafo, joelho e costelinha de porco, o tal do frango atropelado e a estrela maior, a pancetta enrolada e defumada.Defumada por dois dias, antes de entrar na tenda para ser fracionada em rolos e ser frita na gordura bem quente, a pancetta é um sucesso. "Vem gente de todos os lugares da cidade e de fora dela para comer esse torresmo, que cortamos e servimos na hora, ao gosto do cliente", afirma.Por dia, são expostos na tenda de 12 a 16 rolos de pancetta, cada um com cerca de seis quilos, que, fracionados, geram porções de 350 gramas, que custam R$ 20 —mas, se o cliente quiser levar a peça para casa, ela sai por R$ 35,90 o quilo in natura; defumada fica mais cara, R$ 59,90 o quilo, porque o processo reduz seu peso em cerca de 40%."Tudo que é comprado no açougue e assado na tenda não tem custo", diz Satake. "Fazemos o preparo de graça."Entre as carnes consideradas "diferentonas" estão as de animais silvestres ou de espécies de caça. Entre elas, a rã extralimpa é vendida em pacotinhos de meio quilo; o coelho é disponibilizado inteiro ou cortado para ser feito à caçadora; o pato, inteiro, pode ser temperado ou sem tempero; há ainda jacaré e javali.Como funciona? O cliente liga para o açougue e solicita a carne que quer. Ela será pesada e cobrada pelo preço de balcão, embalada no alumínio e levada à churrasqueira, com hora marcada para que se retire pronta para o consumo. Mas, atenção, não se atrase: o carrê de cordeiro, por exemplo, assa rápido, em torno de dez a 20 minutos, dependendo do ponto solicitado pelo cliente. "No caso do carrezinho de cordeiro", explicou Satake, prefiro esperar a pessoa chegar para assar, porque se ela atrasar no trânsito 30 minutos a carne já secou e não fica boa." Além das carnes exóticas citadas e as tradicionais, que todo mundo conhece, como coxão mole, patinho, picanha, contrafilé e alcatra, na Casa de Carnes Serra da Cantareira há carnes manipuladas. Entre elas, hambúrgueres (um pacote com seis hambúrgueres, com 100 gramas cada um, sai por R$ 23,90), e a maminha recheada com queijo coalho (peça com 1,5 quilo), além de leitão, costelinha, costelinha com couro, sem couro e a porchetta, que é diferente da pancetta de onde sai o torresmo de rolo. Pancetta e porchetta são feitas do mesmo corte —barriga do porco—, mas a porchetta, que também é feita a pururuca, é recheada de farofa especial, com calabresa, bacon e azeitona moídos. A porchetta é um prato para ser servido para bastante gente, pois rende bem."No Natal, por exemplo, muitos clientes preferiram levar a porchetta no lugar do leitão por ser mais barato. É um corte maior, com custo benefício melhor", explica Satake. Mais Ainda há nessa "carnelândia" o bife ancho, prime rib, short rib e tomahawk. Tomahawk é um daqueles cortes utilizados pelo chef turco Nusret Gökçe para propagar sua rede de restaurantes especializada em carnes.Figura famosa em vídeos na internet, Gökçe sempre aparece, de óculos escuros, desossando e fatiando uma bela peça de tomahawk, antes de finalizar, jocosamente, polvilhando sal na carne. Na Casa de Carnes da Serra da Cantareira, o tomahawk é da raça angus, pesando em média um quilo, e cada peça é vendida a R$ 99,90.Do lado de fora da tenda, há uns poucos banquinhos de plástico para acomodar quem quer comer um torresminho ou um espetinho. A tenda fica repleta de gente, e o melhor horário para comprar e levar para casa ou comer sossegado é das 9h às 10h —depois, a muvuca é certa.Em sociedade com Marcelo, dono da Casa de Carnes da Serra da Cantareira, Satake também abriu, há dois anos, na Vila Albertina, perto da casa de carnes, a Templo dos Assados Especiarias, fábrica de onde saem os produtos com a marca Templo dos Assados, uma linha de sais, temperos e molhos usados para temperar as carnes assadas na tenda e para as encomendas.Na fábrica, é feita a linha de sais de parrilla tradicional, temperados com alho, chimichurri, apimentado, com limão siciliano, com ervas finas, além do sal marinho e o rosa do Himalaia (fino e grosso), todos à venda no açougue. Mais Elaborados para que o grelhado asse por completo, evitando que resseque, mantendo a carne suculenta, tanto o sal fino quanto o marinho —que não passam por processos que o sal refinado passa e não possuem aditivos químicos antiaglomerantes e de branqueamento— são ideais para o churrasco.Algumas celebridades do mundo da música costumam aparecer no Templo dos Assados. Já estiveram no local Almir Sater, Sérgio Reis e outros artistas. Segundo Satake, o rapper, cantor, letrista e compositor Emicida, e o cantor e compositor Gaab, são clientes assíduos.Felipe Palazzo, 34, securitário, morador da Vila Nova Cachoeirinha, é cliente há dois anos de Satake. Praticante de mountain bike, dá seus rolês com frequência na Serra da Cantareira. De tanto passar diante das vistosas carnes expostas na tenda, um dia parou."Estava voltando de uma trilha e parei para comer um torresmo e tomar uma cerveja. Aí, meu, fiquei encantado!", lembra. O pernil temperado e o torresmo são seus prediletos. "Meu, não tem o que falar. É fenomenal, inclusive você pode pedir o pernil recheado se quiser. Minha família gosta mais do temperado, sem recheio, mas tudo é bom." Mais Já a guarulhense Cleide Rodrigues, 48, arquiteta e moradora da Serra da Cantareira, é cliente da casa de carnes há oito anos, e do Templo dos Assados, desde quando foi aberto. "No dia em que estou a fim de fazer nada em casa, eu desço a serra para pegar comida na tenda", conta."Acho que não tem nada deles que eu não tenha comido. Adoro o frango [atropelado], que vem sem ossinho e com a farofinha pronta. Também consumo bastante espetinhos, no mínimo uns dez, o de frango é muito bom. E também aquele negócio enrolado do torresmo [pancetta], aí gente, é maravilhoso!", fala a cliente que, às vezes, pede para Satake assar também uma picanha."É maravilhosa, sem falar que depois você não precisa limpar a churrasqueira."O estabelecimento ainda vende carvão, apetrechos para churrasco, palmito em conserva e latinhas de cerveja geladas, que o cliente pode tomar enquanto espera seu pedido ficar pronto, por preços que variam entre R$ 5 a R$ 7."É preço de boteco, mais para atender os clientes que estão na espera, mas temos sucos naturais também para quem não toma cerveja. Aqui, costumamos dizer que é o açougue dos assuntos impossíveis. Tudo o que o cliente quer, que ninguém faz, a gente faz", promete o chef. | comida |
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] | A alcunha de "capital gastronômica internacional" sempre pareceu um pouco exagerada quando atribuída a São Paulo, cidade que, no entanto, se orgulha de ter restaurantes com cozinhas do mundo todo, de Angola a Venezuela.Mas o pomposo aposto tem feito cada vez mais sentido à medida que consagrados chefs internacionais têm escolhido a capital paulista como endereço para seus projetos, comprovando o papel dela no cenário da gastronomia global.O mais recente deles é o canadense Daniel Burs, que conquistou reputação na cena nova-iorquina com seu estrelado restaurante Luksus depois de ter passado por restaurantes mundialmente famosos, como o Noma (Dinamarca) e o The Fat Duck (Inglaterra).Ele assume a cozinha do Corrutela, restaurante da Vila Madalena que se tornou conhecido por seu trabalho com a sustentabilidade e que reabre nas próximas semanas depois de um hiato de quase um ano provocado pela pandemia —o restaurante anunciou o fechamento em abril de 2021.O chef canadense vai substituir César Costa, que continua como sócio do restaurante e com o cargo de um chef executivo, como explica. "Isso significa que eu sigo no conselho", brinca.Costa afirma ser cada vez mais importante a ideia de profissionalização das cozinhas, como acontece em empresas. "É normal de tempos em tempos trocar o CEO. É como eu vejo o que estamos fazendo aqui", explica.Na rotina do restaurante, estará Burns, que já tem se dedicado a criar os pratos novos —como a cabotiã servida com creme de castanha de caju e folhas de mostarda, ou o cracker de polenta com mousse de fígado de galinha e rabanetes."É a mesma banda, mas com um novo vocalista", resume Costa, para quem a vinda do amigo internacional só enaltece ainda mais o panorama gastronômico da cidade. Mais O chef canadense é o mais novo recém-chegado de um fluxo que se intensificou principalmente nos últimos três anos, quando restaurantes comandados por mexicanos, argentinos e espanhóis ganharam destaque em uma cidade que soma cerca de 70 mil empresas no setor de restauração (entre lanchonetes, restaurantes e bares), segundo a Abrasel."Eu já tinha visitado São Paulo e conhecido seu potencial na gastronomia. Mas a ideia de agora poder vir para assumir um restaurante aqui é desafiadora, mas muito excitante", afirma Burns.Para ele, é um grande estímulo lidar com ingredientes e uma cultura nova, mas diz que, na sua visão, a cidade está em um excelente momento em termos de ofertas e restaurantes."Há conceitos muito interessantes aqui, que poderiam estar em qualquer outra grande cidade do mundo, com certeza", afirma. Mas diz que reconhece na capital uma "energia que torna também tudo muito autêntico". "Vim com esse olhar fresco para tentar entender o que eu posso somar a uma cena já tão vibrante", conclui.O chef catalão Gerard Barberan também se encantou com a efervescência da gastronomia paulistana desde a primeira vez que pisou na cidade. "Não tenho dúvidas de que, neste sentido, é uma capital comparável com Nova York e Londres", afirma.Como chef executivo de projetos como a Bottega Bernacca, de cozinha italiana, e do japonês Kuro, ele é testemunha dessa evolução gastronômica pela qual passa São Paulo."No começo, era difícil convencer o cliente local a comer algo diferente: ele queria sempre a mesma massa, o mesmo peixe. Mas não tenho dúvida de que o paulistano está muito mais aberto hoje, o que tem permitido muitos projetos de surgirem aqui", acredita.Ainda que seja uma cidade ainda "muito difícil" em termos logísticos e de mão de obra, ele se diz surpreso com o potencial de adaptabilidade de São Paulo a novos conceitos."É uma cidade muito dinâmica, democrática", afirma Barberan, que acaba de inaugurar também um bar de coquetelaria, o Gran Bar Bernacca, no Itaim. "Este é outro universo que se expandiu de forma potencial na cidade", explica. "Uma prova de como as coisas têm outra velocidade em São Paulo."Para ele, o trabalho prévio de muitos profissionais na cidade, como o grupo Fasano, ajudou a formar uma base para o setor de restauração na capital, elevando o nível de cozinha e serviço que se tornaram uma marca da cena paulistana.Historicamente, aliás, os restaurantes em São Paulo se desenvolveram essencialmente com a vinda de imigrantes de países como Itália, Espanha, França e Líbano, que se estabeleceram por aqui e fundaram muitas das casas pioneiras da cidade —que abriram os caminhos depois para os próprios chefs brasileiros.Essa abertura aos chefs de fora continua ainda hoje, mas agora atraindo também talentos da cozinha que deliberadamente escolheram trocar cidades como Nova York ou Barcelona para desenvolverem seus negócios aqui.É o caso do mexicano Eduardo Ortiz, que antes de abrir o Metzi, no final de 2019, no bairro de Pinheiros, se dedicava à cozinha do Cosme, um dos mais prestigiosos restaurantes de Nova York, do premiado chef Enrique Olvera.Ele e a mulher, a brasileira Luana Sabino, queriam abrir o próprio restaurante e cogitaram ir para a Europa para consumar os planos. "Mas ela me contou de São Paulo e me convenceu da oportunidade que tínhamos, já que a oferta mexicana ainda é fraca na cidade", justifica."Cheguei e lembro que logo pensei: ‘essa é a Nova York da América Latina’", relembra ele, que nunca tinha estado no Brasil. "É uma cidade fantástica, que leva hospitalidade muito a sério."Do ponto de vista do negócio, foi um princípio complicado por conta da pandemia. Mas Ortiz conta que ficou impressionado com a receptividade que teve, tanto do lado pessoal quanto da cozinha que queriam oferecer. Mais "No princípio, as pessoas perguntavam por burrito, pediam cheddar. Aos poucos, mostramos nossa proposta e acho que fomos bem aceitos. Confesso que achei que essa adaptação nos custaria mais tempo."Ortiz também conta que, em relação a produtos, hoje já consegue encontrar muitas coisas que são indispensáveis para sua cozinha como pimentas, tomatillo (fruto nativo mexicano) e até o nopal, o cacto que é tão usado na cozinha de seu país."Você conta o que precisa e os produtores se esforçam para conseguir fornecer, outros chefs indicam onde encontrar. O brasileiro te acolhe muito bem, é algo muito particular daqui", acredita.Isso, segundo ele, também é um dos motivos que, se a princípio não é o que atrai primeiro os chefs internacionais, é certamente algo que os faz ficar. "Acho que muitos vêm pela dinâmica da cidade, a diversidade de clientela, mas fica pelo que nem esperava encontrar. Já digo que me sinto em casa." | comida |
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] | Quem diria que um simples ensopado de carne e cogumelos pudesse gerar tanta discórdia. Pobre estrogonofe, tão rico em sabor e de aparência inofensiva, virou alvo do universo gastronômico junto com parceiros russos como o drinque moscow mule, feito de vodka e gengibre.Ambos sofreram, nos últimos dias, retaliações culinárias por sua origem natal —o coquetel mudou de nome e passou a se chamar kiev mule em bares dos Estados Unidos e em alguns estabelecimentos no Brasil, enquanto o prato foi eliminado temporariamente do cardápio do restaurante Dona Onça, de Janaína Rueda, que voltou atrás menos de 24 horas depois e reanexou os cubinhos de mignon ao menu.O estrogonofe nasceu há mais de um século em São Petesburgo, na Rússia, no palácio dos Stroganov. A história de sua origem tem várias versões contadas ao longo do tempo, sem que nenhuma tivesse sua veracidade absoluta comprovada.Já no Brasil, a gênese é mais precisa. A versão nacional do prato surgiu pelas mãos do chef (russo) Gregor Berezanski, responsável pela cozinha da boate Vogue, fundada em 1947 pelo barão austríaco Max Von Stuckart, e um marco na vida social e política da capital carioca.No passo a passo do estrogonofe de Berezanski, iam carne bovina em tiras, champignons e creme de leite azedo. Da cozinha da Vogue para as casas da alta sociedade foi um pulo.Entre elas estava o apartamento do pianista Bené Nunes, morto em 1997. "Em 1959, o apartamento, na Gávea, competia com o dos pais de Nara Leão, em Copacabana, como o principal ponto de encontro dos jovens bossanovistas", lembra o jornalista e escritor Ruy Castro, colunista da Folha e autor de "A Noite do Meu Bem", em que conta a história do samba-canção."Em ambos, os encontros avançavam pela madrugada, mas no de Bené havia uma vantagem: lá pelas duas da manhã, sua mulher Dulce, a deslumbrante Dulce Bressane, atriz, cantora e ex-capa de 'O Cruzeiro', servia um baita estrogonofe à turma", diz Ruy."Depois de horas de uísque e violão, nada podia bater melhor. Pode-se dizer, portanto, que 'O Barquinho', de [Roberto] Menescal e [Ronaldo] Bôscoli, não nasceu em alto mar, como se pensa, mas de um estrogonofe."Nem um passado tão glorioso, no entanto, foi capaz de salvar o estrogonofe da polêmica envolvendo os protestos contra a Guerra na Ucrânia. E, por via das dúvidas, diante do risco de o prato ser novamente limado dos restaurantes brasileiros, vale aprender a executar a receita em casa mesmo.Confira abaixo duas versões: a original russa, descrita pelo chef Paulo Farias, do Stroganov, restaurante de delivery paulista especializado em estrogonofe, no Itaim Bibi; e uma versão brasileira com frango, proteína (por enquanto) mais em conta nos supermercados, assinada pela culinarista Juliana Ventura.Dificuldade: Médio Rendimento: 2 a 3 pessoasIngredientesModo de preparoDificuldade: Médio Rendimento: 6 pessoasIngredientesModo de preparoCorte o peito de frango em cubos pequenos. Tempere com sal, pimenta e suco de limão.Em uma panela grande, doure a cebola bem picada no azeite. Adicione o frango temperado, o molho inglês e a farinha e misture bem. Tampe e deixe cozinhar por dois ou três minutos.Com a ajuda de uma concha de metal, flambe a carne. Para isso, coloque a vodca na concha, aproxime-a de uma boca de fogão acesa e espere que a bebida pegue fogo levemente. Adicione então à carne. Uma labareda vai levantar. Espere que o fogo baixe e mexa bem.Coloque o ketchup, a mostarda e os tomates pelados picados. Misture.Acrescente o shitake em fatias e cozinhe por 15 minutos.Adicione o creme de leite, acerte o sal e a pimenta. Sirva com arroz e batata palha. | comida |
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] | Em dezembro de 2009, a rua dos Pinheiros ainda estava longe de ser uma das mais bombadas e gastronômicas do bairro mais bombado e gastronômico da cidade.Mas foi ali, entre as esquinas da Joaquim Antunes e Cônego Eugênio Leite, em um imóvel antes ocupado por uma oficina, que Chico Ferreira e Gil Carvalhosa Leite escolheram plantar um bistrô de alma bem francesa, o Le Jazz.São Paulo experimentava a moda da cozinha contemporânea, com suas desconstruções e experimentos moleculares, mas a dupla escolheu o caminho inverso e apostou no cardápio clássico francês. Também faziam sucesso as casas imponentes, erguidas com investimentos milionários, mas os dois preferiram inaugurar uma loja pequenina e aconchegante, que não trabalhasse com reservas, e que acabou incorporando as longas filas à decoração da fachada.O resultado, o paulistano já conhece: a fórmula se revelou certeira e o Le Jazz deu cria nos anos seguintes, já com Paulo Bitelman na sociedade, ganhando mais três unidades, maiores e mais cintilantes. A rua dos Pinheiros, que antes servia de passagem apressada entre importantes avenidas, ficou marcada pela história do restaurante —quem costuma circular por lá nos fins de semana atesta.A história é contada pelo jornalista Luiz Américo Camargo em "Alma de Bistrô – A Trajetória do Le Jazz", livro que acaba de sair do forno pela editora Amê Content.Em 272 páginas ricamente ilustradas por fotos de Romulo Fialdini, Camargo entretém o leitor com todas as histórias dos bastidores do empreendimento, desde a concepção do projeto e a construção do cardápio até a relação estreita com clientes comuns e famosos —tudo entrelaçado com pitadas generosas de cultura francesa e jazz.A minuciosa documentação que os sócios guardaram, com direito a fotos da montagem do salão, e uma coletânea de textos de cronistas convidados, como Josimar Melo, Mariliz Pereira Jorge e Antonio Prata, todos colunistas da Folha, tornam ainda mais divertido o passeio histórico pelos 12 anos de casa.Ferreira explica a data quebrada: "A ideia era lançar o livro em 2020, logo depois do aniversário de dez anos. Aí veio a pandemia e o projeto acabou saindo dois anos depois, com um capítulo adicional sobre essa fase". Mais A página 177 dá início a uma fatia não menos saborosa do livro: o Caderno de Receitas. São 30, de entradas a sobremesas, mais 14 de drinques, escolhidas entre as mais populares do bistrô, com direito a história dos pratos e dicas do chef para que os preparos deem certo na cozinha doméstica.Estão lá o filet au poivre com molho à base de conhaque, o filet à la moutarde e o steak tartare, para comer com fritas ou salada, além do maior hit de todos os tempos: o ovo mollet, empanado em farinha de pão, que deve ir à mesa com a gema molinha, servido com cogumelos refogados na manteiga.Escolher só 30 pratos, confessa Ferreira, foi um verdadeiro exercício de concisão. "Muita coisa ficou de fora. Inicialmente, fizemos uma seleção de umas 40 receitas, incluindo algumas que marcaram época e não estão mais no cardápio, porque sou muito nostálgico. Mas a beleza das fotos nos ajudou a fechar nas 30." | comida |
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] | Era o ano de 1992. Matriculada na Peter Kump’s Cooking School, atual Institute of Culinary Education, em Nova York, a gaúcha Carla Beatriz Danesi Pernambuco foi contratada para servir brunches brasileiros no restaurante Boom (extinto em 2012), no Soho. Até então, era uma jornalista que gostava de cozinhar para os amigos —e sequer imaginava que se tornaria uma das chefs de cozinha mais famosas do Brasil.Nas três décadas seguintes, Carla não só inaugurou o restaurante Carlota, que completa 27 anos em setembro sem acusar a idade, como pôs seu nome em 10 livros e seis programas de TV. E tudo isso muito antes que a popularidade dos chefs passasse a ser medida em likes e números de seguidores nas redes sociais.Durante a pandemia, entrou de cabeça no universo do delivery, até então um ilustre desconhecido. Desenvolveu uma linha de pratos congelados, o Carlota Polar, e quatro produtos com sua marca, criados em parceria com produtores artesanais de café, mel, azeite e doce de leite.Aos 62 anos, casada há 33 com o fotógrafo Fernando Pernambuco, e mãe de três filhos, Carla tem uma agenda de tirar o fôlego de qualquer adolescente —nem mesmo o segundo infarto, que resultou na colocação de um stent, foi capaz de diminuir o ritmo dessa escorpiana que se classifica uma "maníaco-eufórica".Carla acaba de criar um novo menu de comidinhas para o Carlota, em Higienópolis, e que vai vigorar no intervalo entre almoço e jantar. O cardápio foi batizado de Estação Carlota, homenagem irônica à barulhenta obra do metrô colada ao restaurante.Ao mesmo tempo, supervisionou a criação do cardápio do restaurante 1835, que faz parte do novo hotel de luxo Kempinski Laje de Pedra, na Serra Gaúcha —a operação hoteleira só deve iniciar a operação em 2024, mas o restaurante foi inaugurado em novembro de 2021.A chef também pôs um site novo no ar e criou uma newsletter quinzenal, com artigos autorais. Está escrevendo seu 11º livro, "Meu Coração na Mesa", com receitas saudáveis focadas na redução do colesterol.Começou a desenvolver uma linha de louças para a loja de decoração Westwing, em parceria com a filha, além de um curry à base de ingredientes amazônicos, para a marca Manioca, e um chutney para a marca Soul Brasil. Também virou celebridade no Instagram, com 151 mil seguidores.Em uma tarde de tempestade em São Paulo no começo de fevereiro, Carla recebeu a Folha na cozinha do Estúdio CP, espaço que funciona como escola e laboratório de criação, na mesma rua do restaurante.Ela relembrou sua trajetória e contou, na qualidade de testemunha ocular, como o mundo da gastronomia e os restaurantes em São Paulo mudaram nos últimos 30 anos. Você é gaúcha, de família italiana, mas as influências asiáticas sempre foram sua marca registrada. Como se deu essa mistura?Nasci em família de italianos e portugueses de um lado, com uma avó uruguaia do outro. Todos cozinhavam muito. Cresci comendo linguiça caseira, ravióli de miolos, dobradinha com feijão branco, bife de ovelha, todas essas coisas fortes. Era um ambiente propício para uma pessoa virar cozinheira. Recentemente, revisitei essa cozinha gaúcha para supervisionar a criação dos pratos do 1835, em Canela (RS): fizemos cheesecake com calda de butiá, sorvete de sagu, torta de queijo com keschmier, o cottage que se come no café colonial. Foi emocionante. As influências asiáticas vieram bem depois, do tempo em que vivi em Nova York, entre 1991 e 1994. Morei em três endereços, todos perto de Chinatown, e comecei a frequentar os mercados asiáticos. Provava de tudo e abri minha cabeça.Que prato te emociona?Adoro uma massa só na manteiga, com um pouquinho de noz-moscada. É minha comida de alma. Também sou louca por canja, que faço de um jeito diferente, com macarrão cabelinho de anjo no lugar do arroz.Como era o cenário gastronômico paulistano quando inaugurou o Carlota?Imagine que não havia internet. O que se via pela cidade eram cozinhas de maîtres, não de chefs, com poucas mulheres à frente. O Spot e o Gero eram a sensação. Idealizei o Carlota como um lugar descontraído, com poucos lugares e um balcão enorme, onde as pessoas comprassem comida para levar. O nome original era Carlota Café. Contratei três garçonetes charmosas, que mal sabiam segurar uma bandeja. As sobremesas eram da Isabela Suplicy. Aí fomos empurrados para o universo da gastronomia. Eu havia trabalhado com a Joyce Pascowitch, na Folha de S.Paulo, e depois como relações públicas da agência de publicidade DM9. Meu marido era fotógrafo de moda. Ou seja, três tribos de amigos formadores de opinião, que ajudaram o Carlota a acontecer. Quando o Josimar Melo escreveu sobre a gente na Folha, foi uma loucura. Logo vieram prêmios, que fizeram a casa encher, mudaram o perfil do nosso público e nos obrigaram a crescer.O que você se lembra daquele primeiro cardápio?Tinha cavaquinha com purê de mandioquinha e ova de salmão, que virou um sucesso pelo preço baixo. A gente não tinha noção, precisei reajustar quando entendi o tanto de impostos que teria de pagar. Os rolls estão desde o início e continuam no menu, assim como o suflê de goiabada. O camarão crocante saiu uma época, briguei com ele por ser uma fritura muito gordurosa, mas recebia bilhetes pedindo que ele voltasse. Mais O que fazia um restaurante 'bombar' naquela época?Comida boa com preço justo, em ambiente descontraído. Até hoje a receita funciona. Quando você formaliza demais o serviço, espanta uma parcela grande do público. Sempre nos classificaram como "o barato dos caros", um ótimo lugar para ficar, na minha opinião. Consigo usar bons produtos, sem abusar dos preços.Estar na TV ajudou?Sem dúvida. Não é à toa que todo chef quer ir para a TV. Os programas despertam nas pessoas a vontade de cozinhar e de ir a restaurantes, elas passam a fazer parte do mundo da comida. Mas só gosto de fazer tutoriais de receitas, não sou fã dos reality shows. Acho a fórmula esgotada. Não gosto da maneira como são conduzidos, colocar as pessoas publicamente naquelas situações. Aquele clima de tensão só atrapalha. Ele já existe naturalmente na cozinha, ninguém precisa de mais pressão. Depois dos episódios cardíacos, eu até mudei com minha equipe. Era dura, agora sou mais relaxada. Tudo o que não quero na vida é tensão. Mais Você já teve outros restaurantes, como a filial carioca do Carlota e a sociedade no Las Chicas. Por que desistiu deles?Deixei o Rio de Janeiro por problemas com a proprietária do imóvel, mas foi muito importante ter passado aqueles 11 anos no Leblon. Ganhei prêmios importantes e dei visibilidade internacional para o restaurante. A saída do Las Chicas foi uma opção: eu quis encolher de tamanho e cuidar só do Carlota. Ainda bem. Ter tido juízo e me contentado em ser pequena só ajudou a enfrentar a pandemia.Como tem sido sua relação com os críticos de gastronomia?A crítica é necessária e mantenho ótimas relações, viro até fonte deles sugerindo pautas. O texto do Josimar Melo, por exemplo, foi fundamental para o Carlota. Ele é ácido, mas eu nunca fui um docinho de coco, então tudo bem.E com os influenciadores digitais, a relação é a mesma?São bem-vindos, porque representam uma democratização na geração de conteúdo e no compartilhamento de informações. Espero que honrem suas opiniões e tenham critérios de avaliação, independente de retribuições financeiras.O público mudou nessas três décadas?Muito. Quando abri o Carlota, via duplas de homens de negócios preferindo pratos gordurosos. Hoje, há uma preocupação crescente com a saúde, todos pedindo acompanhamentos mais leves. Já vendo mais sucos de frutas do que refrigerantes. Os peixes se tornaram campeões de vendas e os doces têm cada vez menos açúcar. Mas fazer sobremesa diet não funciona, ninguém pede. Mais Por que você trabalha em tantas frentes ao mesmo tempo? É sua personalidade, ou não dá para ganhar dinheiro só com o restaurante?Sempre fui multitarefas, me empolgo com as coisas. E, olha que estou de repouso por ordens médicas! Só consegui conciliar a carreira com meus três filhos em função da rede de apoio que sempre tive ao meu redor, especialmente minha mãe, que faleceu há dois meses. Hoje, minhas filhas Floriana e Julia são meu apoio.Qual sua opinião a respeito da relação entre chefs famosos e publicidade?Não sou contra e já fiz muito. Fui embaixadora da Tramontina, fiz campanhas para o Pão de Açúcar, fornos Pratika e Varig, criei programas de TV patrocinados pela JBS, desenvolvi receita para a Pomarola. Mas não dá para atrelar seu nome a qualquer marca. Já fiz uma campanha, anos atrás, para uma marca de margarina. Aceitei com o coração na mão, porque margarina nunca é um produto bom. Hoje não faria, mas na época estava sem dinheiro, com os boletos chegando. Por isso não julgo, entendo o lado humano de quem aceita.Seu suflê de goiabada foi bastante copiado e sempre aparece nas reportagens sobre autoria de receitas. Ainda há espaço para esse tipo de discussão?Para mim, nunca foi assunto. A melhor coisa para registrar a autoria de uma receita é publicá-la. E fazer sempre melhor do que os outros. Se as pessoas gostam, não há como impedir que copiem.Qual foi sua boia para não naufragar na pandemia?A boia mental foi a criação dos produtos, o que me ocupou bastante. A financeira foi o delivery, que lancei no dia 18 de março. O designer Daniel Kondo foi impecável, criou as embalagens sem cobrar. Mas demiti 15 pessoas e peguei dinheiro emprestado para pagar as rescisões, pois não tenho sócio-investidor. Tinha 400 garrafas de vinho no estoque, precisei negociar com fornecedores. Alguns foram parceiros e parcelaram, outros não. Pelo menos sou proprietária de metade do imóvel. Se estivesse em shopping center ou tivesse várias unidades, teria quebrado. Os governos atuais não ajudaram em nada. O federal... Sem comentários, né? Mas também faltou o governo estadual olhar para o pequeno empresário. Somos pulguinhas tratadas como grandes empresas. A pandemia foi uma palhaçada. Claro que era preciso implementar restrições, mas fecharam os restaurantes e não controlaram o transporte público. Pagamos uma conta gigantesca sozinhos e o resultado está aí, um monte de gente quebrada. Agora vêm as eleições, todo mundo vai receber o que merece. Ninguém vai ser reeleito.Teve medo de morrer quando sofreu os infartos?De morrer não, mas de ter um AVC e ficar com sequelas graves, como aconteceu com a minha mãe. Mudei minha rotina. Hoje faço ioga, pilates e caminhadas, repensei a alimentação. O próximo livro, que deve virar uma plataforma, será sobre isso: como comer comida gostosa à base de ingredientes que fazem bem para a saúde. Não sou maluca de dizer que ninguém pode comer fritura, mas há formas equilibradas de fazer isso. Comendo menos carne, por exemplo. Acabo de criar uma polenta brustolada de milho crioulo, que vai à mesa com molho cremoso de cogumelos e um cogumelo eringui grelhado, como um bife.O que falta realizar?Algum tempo atrás, eu e a Néli Pereira [mixologista e pesquisadora] escrevemos um projeto inspirado no trabalho do crítico Jonathan Gold, de Los Angeles, que revelava talentos da cozinha na periferia da cidade. Ainda não aconteceu, mas é algo que quero fazer. E ter casa de praia para ir de vez em quando.Como serão os restaurantes de São Paulo daqui a 30 anos?Vejo todo mundo comendo melhor. A comida vai ser cada vez mais saudável. Só nos acostumamos a comer tanta carne porque era um produto barato, mas isso mudou. Todo mundo vai ter que comer mais vegetais e consumir peixes com parcimônia, pois o planeta não aguenta mais. Lugares sofisticados não vão deixar de existir, mas a maioria dos estabelecimentos vai ser mais simples. Esse excesso de serviço no salão, típico do Brasil, vai acabar. Vai ser possível trabalhar com equipes enxutas e mais bem pagas. Por isso fico pensando: será que fico menor ainda do que já sou? | comida |
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] | Na noite desta quinta (24), após dois dias de soft opening para convidados, o grupo Fasano abre as portas de seu primeiro restaurante nos Estados Unidos.Projetado pelo arquiteto Isay Weinfeld, o mesmo que assina quase todas as unidades da rede, fica em Midtown, coração de Nova York, a pouco mais de um quilômetro de distância do Fasano Fifth Avenue, residencial de luxo inaugurado em março de 2021.São três os espaços, que somam cem lugares: além do elegante salão principal, há uma osteria com cardápio mais informal e, no andar de cima, uma sala privativa com música ao vivo, para até 26 pessoas. O bar Baretto será inaugurado em uma segunda etapa, na primavera norte-americana.Da cozinha, a cargo do chef Nicola Fedeli, transferido do extinto Fasano Al Mare, no Rio de Janeiro, sairão pratos do norte da Itália que são velhos conhecidos do paulistano, como o ossobuco alla menighina, do Fasano, e o bollito misto, cozido à italiana servido em carrinho, um dos pedidos mais icônicos do restaurante Parigi. A carta de vinhos tem a assinatura do sommelier Manoel Beato.Só que o nova-iorquino vai pagar mais barato. O risotto ai funghi porcini e timo, por exemplo, que custa R$ 223 em São Paulo, sai por 35 dólares em Nova York —pelo câmbio desta quinta (24), seriam R$ 179,08.A poucas horas da inauguração oficial, em meio aos ajustes finais, o empresário Gero Fasano conversou com a Folha por chamada de vídeo e contou os detalhes da nova unidade. Há quanto tempo o projeto do restaurante vem sendo gestado?Assinamos o contrato há 3 anos. Prevíamos a inauguração para um ano atrás, mas a pandemia fez com que todo o processo fosse mais lento. A reforma, que deveria durar seis meses, levou um ano e meio para ser concluída.Quais são as particularidades desta unidade? A parte da frente do imóvel, eu transformei em uma osteria. São mesas mais próximas, menu basicamente de massas e saladas, com serviço mais informal. Equivale à Trattoria Fasano de São Paulo. Depois, um longo corredor leva ao salão do Fasano.Qual é a sua expectativa em relação ao público? Espero que os nova-iorquinos venham bastante, principalmente pela localização. Estamos em um ponto onde muita gente trabalha, como também acontece com a Trattoria, que atrai o pessoal da [avenida] Faria Lima. Acho que teremos muitos clientes assíduos na hora do almoço. Mas, também tenho certeza de que os brasileiros que vierem para cá terão curiosidade para conhecer.Mesmo sendo uma cidade tão cara, na conversão simples, os preços de Nova York são mais baratos. Por quê?Tudo aquilo que é importado no Brasil custa menos aqui, a começar pelos vinhos e outras bebidas. Mesmo que o dólar estivesse em um patamar normal, os preços no Brasil já são caros pelas taxas de importação. Aqui, nos Estados Unidos, os itens que vêm do exterior têm preços competitivos em relação ao que se produz no país. O mercado brasileiro ainda é muito protecionista.Vai ter festa de inauguração?Nunca faço festa. Se você descaracteriza o restaurante, removendo mesas e cadeiras, fica horrível. E, se convidar só o número de convidados que cabem nos lugares, acabo deixando muita gente para fora, vou magoar mais do que agradar. Por isso, a gente nunca abre um restaurante de uma vez só, mas vai abrindo.Fasano Restaurant New York 42 East 49th Street New York, NY 10017 fasanorestaurantny.com | comida |
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] | Na crônica "Almoço Mineiro", publicada pela primeira vez na revista Manchete de julho de 1955, o escritor Rubem Braga concentra sua narração sobre um excepcional lombo de porco com tutu de feijão servido a um grupo de comensais formado por diplomatas, jornalistas e oficiais do exército."O lombo era o essencial, e a sua essência era sublime. Por fora era escuro, com tons de ouro. A faca penetrava nele tão docemente como a alma de uma virgem pura entra no céu (...). O gosto era de um salgado distante e de uma ternura quase musical", descreve.Braga segue, ainda, com a definição de que, por seu sabor "indefinível e puríssimo", o lombo parecia saído da orelha de um anjo. E, ainda que poucos possam ter alguma vez provado um naco de criaturas celestiais, o autor torna fácil saber a qualidade do tal almoço.Escrever sobre comida é um desafio porque propõe que se transporte para o papel o que é fundamentalmente sensorial. A provação faz parte da rotina de jornalistas e críticos do universo gastronômico, e de cada vez mais interessados no tema que se aventuram a abordá-lo nas redes sociais."Existe uma limitação enorme ao traduzir em linguagem uma coisa que é pré-textual’, diz Luiza Fecarotta, jornalista especializada em gastronomia, que ministra em março, em São Paulo, o curso "Língua & Linguagem – A comida e a Escrita Criativa".Conhecido hoje na França e na Itália como um santo, e tido como o padroeiro dos chefs de cozinha, Venâncio Fortunato —ou apenas Fortunato— foi um clérigo e poeta francês cuja paixão platônica por Radegunda, uma ex-rainha se tornou célebre em seu país de origem.Depois de se livrar de um casamento que detestava, Radegunda abraçou a vida religiosa servindo na abadia Sainte-Croix de Poitiers. Lá, recebia cartas de Fortunato, em que ele louvava tanto a existência da amada quanto suas capacidades culinárias."Então, uma gigantesca pilha de fatias de carne surgiu/ uma montanha, com colinas laterais, circundadas por peixes e ragu/ formando um pequeno jardim para o jantar em seu interior", escreveu o poeta em uma de suas correspondências, revelada no livro "A Deliciosa História da França", de Jeni Mitchell e Stéphane Hénaut (Editora Seoman).No Brasil, além de cronistas como Rubem Braga e seu almoço angelical, um dos maiores nomes no campo da tradução de sensações gustativas é o da mineira Nina Horta, autora de "Não É Sopa" (Companhia das Letras) entre muitos livros de gastronomia. Nina, que morreu em 2019, escreveu sobre o assunto na Folha entre 1987 e 2016.São dela escritos como "o Viagra do bolo" para falar do "pó Royal", e descrições de massas leves "como a nuvem". Mais Desde que começou a publicar resenhas sobre restaurantes, nos anos 1990, o colunista da Folha Josimar Melo diz que sempre buscou a objetividade em detrimento da subjetividade."A Nina Horta era uma cronista e podia usar os adjetivos que quisesse. Acho que a crônica pode ter uma coisa impressionista, mas na crítica isso atrapalha. Como quando a pessoa fala que o ‘camarão tinha a delicadeza da minha mãe quando me pegava na escola’, sabe?", compara Melo."E entre a crítica e a crônica tem a reportagem, onde não é necessário o rigor analítico maluco da crítica, e tampouco é desejável a liberdade impressionista da crônica. Na reportagem, menos é mais."Com mais de 45 mil seguidores em seu perfil no Instagram, e um portal criado há mais de uma década para falar sobre comida, o Gastronomium conta com avaliadores anônimos. Marcus, um dos integrantes da equipe, diz preferir o caminho das "referências e emoções" para descrever os pratos que prova."Adjetivos relacionados a sabor ajudam, mas usá-los em excesso pode fazer uma avaliação soar muito técnica e menos acessível. Como minha ideia é aproximar as pessoas da boa gastronomia, procuro escrever de uma forma mais casual", explica.Ele cita uma resenha publicada sobre o restaurante Fat Duck. "Descrevi como o prato lembrou minha infância, o som de fritura que preenchia a manhã, o aroma do açúcar e canela em contato com o bolinho ainda quente."Em uma das aulas de seu curso, Fecarotta trata da comida na construção de personagens e do conceito da comida como cultura. Para tal, cita obras de autores como Rachel de Queiroz, Graciliano Ramos, João Cabral de Melo Neto e Itamar Vieira Junior, com seu premiado "Torto Arado" (Todavia). Mais "Acho que a comida, ou a sua ausência, tem uma grande importância pelas escolhas que fiz de relatar o cotidiano de famílias camponesas. O trabalho no campo necessariamente nos remete à vida e àquilo que nos mantêm vivos", diz Vieira Junior."O alimento não é apenas um gênero na paisagem. É substância, essência, âmago, tudo que nos preenche de vida. Daí o papel que sua presença, e também a escassez, pode ter no movimento do mundo, no movimento das personagens. Costumo dizer que nessa história não apenas os humanos, mas a paisagem, a terra, os rios, a chuva, a mata são personagens. A comida pode nos dizer muito sobre uma pessoa, sobre a sociedade." | comida |
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] | No mês passado, João Pessoa marcava 38 graus no termômetro quando desembarquei no aeroporto e dei de cara com a brisa quente típica da cidade. Fui a Jampa —como carinhosamente chamamos a capital paraibana— a trabalho, participando do maior festival de churrasco do nordeste, o UNQBBQ.O evento acontece todos os anos na praia de Cabedelo, de frente para o mar, com um ventinho que garante a alegria de todos nós churrasqueiros.Nessa edição, eram 20 estações, cada uma comandada por um chef convidado. No cardápio, defumados, cortes de parrilla, fogo de chão e até sobremesa.Como nem só de trabalho vive uma assadeira, a noite foi a hora de relaxar. Fazendo o quê? Comendo churrasco.Depois de indicações de parrillas locais, encontrei o Santa Grelha, casa especializada em cozinha na brasa comandada pela chef Danielle Gondim, responsável também por outras duas unidades da rede. Mais De entrada a pedida foi steak tartare, e, para o prato principal, uma costela bovina assada por 12 horas e finalizada na grelha. De acompanhamento, legumes grelhados com tomates tostados, cenoura, abobrinha, brócolis, vagem, cebola e palmito.Além da costela, chamei também o Especialidades do Mar, um mix de peixes, polvo, lula, camarão e mexilhão preparado com uma manteiga de ervas.Lorena, minha filha, adorou comer o mexilhão direto da casca e queria levar para casa.Minha passagem por João Pessoa teve também visita ao Rei das Carnes PB, onde busquei munição para um passeio de barco com churrasco à beira rio, passando pelo Farol da Pedra Seca e indo ao encontro do rio com o mar no porto de Cabedelo.Em um encontro com um pescador sem sorte que conseguira poucos peixes —um jet sky tinha espantado os cardumes— ganhei duas tilápias que troquei por uma linguiça de cordeiro. Foi preciso insistir bastante para que ele aceitasse.Além do peixe, para o qual Lorena deu nota 8 de dez, assamos também um assado de tira, linguiça de pernil e um cupim defumado por mais de 12 simplesmente divino apresentado pelo meu amigo Xandinho, da Maria Fumaça Smoked.Quando o sol estava se pondo, deu tempo de ver Jurandyr do Sax, que todas as tardes toca o Bolero do Ravel na hora do por do sol.Hoje, ensino aqui o prato que preparei nesta quinta edição do UNQBBQ: uma marinada com ingredientes cheios de umami. É um prato rico em sabor, que dá uma coloração especial à quase pálida carne de porco.INGREDIENTES2 colheres de sopa de extrato de tomate1 xícara de shoyu3 colheres de sopa de azeite½ xícara de água3 dentes de alho picados1 cebola picada2 colheres de sopa de açúcar mascavo3 colheres de sopa de salsinha e cebolinhaSuco de 1 limão1 colher de sopa de lemon pepperPREPAROJunte todos os ingredientes e deixe a carne marinando submersa por no mínimo 2 horas ou até 24 horas. | comida |
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] | Se você acha que gosta de wasabi, melhor saber que aquela pasta verde que costuma acompanhar os sushis em restaurantes e deliveries não é wasabi de verdade. Trata-se de um preparado à base de raiz-forte —em alguns casos, saborizada e colorida artificialmente.A substituição é comum porque o wasabi autêntico, bem diferente, sempre foi um item caro, raro no mundo todo, e que não era produzido no Brasil. Mas agora é.Em Pilar do Sul, interior de São Paulo, o engenheiro agrônomo Vinícius Shizuo Abuno, 26, da Minato Wasabi, cultiva o Eutrema japonicum e já consegue produzir em torno de quatro quilos por mês, que se esgotam rapidamente.A planta demora em média um ano e meio para crescer e produzir, e tem folhas em forma de coração. O rizoma é a parte nobre um caule que se desenvolve sob o solo e atinge o tamanho comercial com cerca de 20 centímetros de comprimento, dois centímetros de diâmetro e peso entre 50 e 60 gramas.Cliente desde a primeira colheita, há pouco mais de dois anos, o chef Tsuyoshi Murakami trata o wasabi como iguaria, como se faz no Japão: no restaurante Murakami, no Jardim Paulista, o caule pode ser ralado diretamente sobre sushis ou sashimis, no balcão, à vista do freguês.O sistema de cobrança é similar ao das caras trufas italianas: o cliente define a quantidade a gosto e paga R$ 80 por dez gramas. Isso mesmo: na ponta do lápis, dá R$ 8 mil o quilo."A cor é mais clara e a picância fica mais ou menos evidente conforme o teor de gordura da proteína. O segredo é adicionar a quantidade certa para cada prato. Geralmente, quem pede são os japoneses ou gente mais curiosa", diz Murakami.Telma Shiraishi, do Aizomê, também é cliente fiel de Abuno. Nas duas unidades do restaurante, uma delas dentro da Japan House, a porção já ralada, com cinco gramas, custa R$ 40. No delivery, é possível comprar o talo inteiro com 12 gramas, para ser ralado em casa, por R$ 125.Produtores de flores, hortaliças e mudas, os Abuno começaram a fazer experimentos com o wasabi há cerca de oito anos, depois de uma viagem ao Japão, onde provaram a versão autêntica. Mais "Sempre focamos em produtos de nicho. Meu pai via que a culinária japonesa se expandia rapidamente em São Paulo, mas ninguém tinha uma produção bem-sucedida por aqui", conta o agrônomo.Das primeiras sementes germinadas, Abuno multiplicou as mudas até conseguir a primeira colheita, em outubro de 2019 —apenas meio quilo. Murakami arrematou o lote inteiro e todos os seguintes, durante dois anos.Não é uma cultura fácil. Segundo o produtor, a planta produz uma substância autoimune que prejudica o próprio desenvolvimento e, por isso, cresce melhor sob ação de água corrente fria e limpa. "Cultivado na água, tem sabor mais acentuado, adocicado e com notas florais. Acho mais saboroso do que o wasabi cultivado diretamente no solo", explica.Apesar do preço salgado, Abuno aposta na demanda e planeja chegar a uma produção de 50 quilos mensais, dentro de um ano e meio. "Estamos pesquisando técnicas para aumentar a produtividade das plantas e reduzir o custo. O tamanho do mercado ainda é uma incógnita, mas sei que não quero recusar pedidos, como faço agora."Pode ser que, dentro de algum tempo, a Minato Wasabi tenha concorrente. Depois de várias tentativas frustradas, o agrônomo Rodrigo Veraldi Ismael, do Viveiro Frutopia, em São Bento do Sapucaí (SP), conseguiu cultivar as primeiras mudas e estima fazer a primeira colheita entre 18 e 24 meses."Vou cultivar em vasos, em estufas, como fazem alguns produtores dos Estados Unidos e da Inglaterra. Minhas mudas já estão vigorosas, dando flores", comemora. | comida |
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] | Basta uma circulada pelas sorveterias da Zona Oeste de São Paulo para notar algo relativamente novo nas cubas geladas. O sorvete de morango, por exemplo, não é mais rosa-chiclete, assim como o de pistache já não exibe aquele tom verde-fluorescente do passado.Por trás dessa mudança está uma nova geração de sorveteiros que, nos últimos dez anos, se estabeleceu nos bairros paulistanos de maior vocação gastronômica e acabou mudando a cara e o sabor dos nossos verões.Entre eles, há desde estreantes na profissão até chefs de cozinha consagrados —caso do catalão Oscar Bosch, sócio do restaurante Tanit e do Nit Bar de Tapas, que inaugura a sorveteria Mooi Mooi no Itaim Bibi nesta quarta (9).Essa turma prefere começar suas receitas do zero e esconjura estabilizantes, emulsificantes e saborizantes industrializados. Os ingredientes são frescos, de preferência locais e da estação, sempre que possível comprados de pequenos produtores.Uma das pioneiras, Marcia Garbin, da Gelato Boutique, começou a vender seus sorvetes em 2012, em carrinhos que percorriam feiras gastronômicas e festas. Ela lembra como o cenário era diferente na época."Até quem fazia sorvete mais ou menos tinha sucesso, porque os clientes mal conheciam os sorvetes artesanais", conta Garbin, hoje à frente de duas lojas, no Jardim Paulista e em Pinheiros.Fernanda Bastos e Thomas Zande, da Frida & Mina, vieram logo depois. Abriram a primeira sorveteria em Pinheiros, em 2013, com a proposta de só usar ingredientes que também entram nas listas de supermercado –zero de bases industrializadas.Hoje com duas unidades, ambas em Pinheiros, o casal vende sorvetes de morango com vinagre balsâmico e de laranja com praliné de castanhas-de-caju –na casquinha de biscoito artesanal, uma bola sai a R$ 14. Em um único domingo de calorão, chegam a sair até 1.200 unidades só na matriz.Montagens cada vez mais gulosas são a bola da vez. Na Gelato Boutique, Garbin prepara sobremesas antigas que andavam sumidas, como as taças de sorvetes com doces e caldas (R$ 29 cada uma) e o baked alaska (R$ 29): sobre uma base de pão-de-ló, o sorvete é coberto por merengue italiano e tostado no maçarico. Mais Na Mooi Mooi, Bosch tritura ingredientes junto com os sorvetes. É possível escolher uma receita da casa, como o king kong, que leva sorvete de banana triturado com sablé (massa crocante) de noz-pecã, cubinhos de banana desidratada e suspiros (R$ 21), ou fazer a mistura a gosto.Na Sorveteria do Centro, que o casal Jefferson e Janaína Rueda abriu em 2018, os sorvetes são do tipo soft, aquele ultracremoso das lanchonetes fast food, mas em produção 100% artesanal.As casquinhas produzidas na casa ganham diferentes cores pela adição de espinafre, cacau, beterraba ou carvão mineral. Maiores do que o tamanho convencional, acomodam outros ingredientes –no geladão (R$ 25), o sorvete de leite quase desaparece sob camadas de bolo gelado, musse de coco, coco crocante, poejo, calda de abacaxi e chocolate branco com coco."Quando era criança, adorava tomar sorvete cheio de confeitos na Alaska. Essa foi nossa inspiração", diz Janaína. Mais A saudade dos sorvetes da infância também guiou o casal Larissa Schutze e João Naufal, que inaugurou a sorveteria Pinguina em 2019."Não queria lançar mais um gelato italiano cremoso. Preferia vender um autêntico sorvete brasileiro, que formasse bolas", explica Schutze.Em uma máquina de 1968 restaurada, a dupla bate sorvetes de mangas colhidas na fazenda da família e café da torrefadora Tocaya, entre outros sabores. Frutas como cupuaçu, graviola, seriguela, goiaba, jabuticaba e cajá aparecem quando estão na época (R$ 12 a bola).Na última semana de janeiro, entraram em cartaz os milk-shakes (R$ 28) –o de pudim de leite é batido com o doce da Pudim do Olim. Também é possível combinar os sorvetes com brownie ou cookie assados lá. Para bebês e cães, tem picolé de fruta pura, batida sem traço de açúcar.Na sorveteria Pine Co., que funciona desde 2018 em Pinheiros, quem responde pela criação dos sabores é o descendente de coreanos Raphael Lee. Ele se define como um camaleão –muda ao sabor dos ingredientes e ideias que vão surgindo. Mais A novidade é o sorvete de yuzu, frutinha cítrica originária da Ásia (R$ 14 a bola). Mas Lee já transformou até infusão de charuto em sorvete."É muito divertido brincar com os sabores. No começo, eu atravessava a rua, entrava no hortifruti e fazia sorvete com o que achava no dia. Só o de charuto não pegou. As pessoas gostam de novidade, mas não tanto", acha graça.A busca por ingredientes naturais ultrapassa o sorvete em si e chega às embalagens. Na Albero dei Gelati, filial de uma sorveteria familiar fundada na Itália, os copinhos são de fécula de mandioca (R$ 14 o pequeno). Em contato com água ou terra, se decompõem em, no máximo, 30 dias –e são até comestíveis.Ex-funcionária da matriz, Fernanda Pamplona recebeu carta branca dos sócios italianos para adaptar os sorvetes ao gosto paulistano. O de ricota com marmelada, por exemplo, virou ricota com doce de leite.Pamplona garimpa seus ingredientes entre produtores artesanais para chegar ao conceito que ela chama de "sorvete agrícola" –um dos sabores mescla queijo da Capim Canastra, mel da Heborá e castanhas-de-caju da Matury Cajucultura.O leite fresco e o creme de leite, as duas principais matérias-primas da sorveteria, são entregues semanalmente pelo projeto orgânico Terra Límpida, conduzido por produtores rurais italianos no município de Cassia dos Coqueiros (SP).Até sabores bem italianos foram abrasileirados. O sorvete de stracciatella, recheio cremoso da burrata, aparece sob uma camada generosa de goiabada. "Encho a vitrine de cor, para derrubar o mito de que sorvete saudável não tem sabor", diz Pamplona. Mais Fazer sorvete do zero dá muito mais trabalho. Na indústria, é farta a oferta de produtos baratos, como o estabilizante, que evita a formação de cristais de gelo, e o emulsificante, que garante a cremosidade.Segundo Francisco Santana, proprietário da Escola Sorvete, receitas livres de tais produtos exigem mais conhecimento técnico do sorveteiro. "Dizem não ser possível fazer sorvetes sem eles, o que não é verdade. Mas é preciso saber balancear muito bem os ingredientes", afirma.A opção por produzir sorvetes 100% naturais ajuda a conquistar um time crescente de consumidores: os veganos. Em tese, todos as receitas à base de água, com frutas e açúcar, atendem a esse público. Em contrapartida, fica mais difícil de agradar à turma fit ou aos diabéticos, já que o açúcar é um ingrediente chave para a obtenção da textura."O que faço é produzir sorvetes com pouco açúcar, entre 18% a 20%. Mas, se quiser eliminá-lo totalmente, terei que usar adoçantes, o que prefiro não fazer", explica Pamplona.A saída, nesse caso, seria produzir picolé –um segmento que as sorveterias paulistanas ainda exploram pouco. Nem mesmo Francisco Santana, um grande entusiasta da ideia, pôs picolés artesanais à venda no delivery de sua fábrica-escola, atualmente focado nos sorvetes cremosos em potes (R$ 39,90, com 400 gramas) e nas tortas de sorvete (de R$ 89,90 a R$ 99,90), outra moda retrô recuperada.Segundo ele, a concorrência dos picolés produzidos em fundo de quintal, por preços muito baixos, e o "trauma da paleta mexicana", que fez muito empreendedor quebrar, têm impedido que esse segmento também deslanche. Quem sabe para o próximo verão? | comida |
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] | Foram alguns anos para ter acesso e dinheiro até poder experimentar. A primeira degustação veio como um teste às cegas, e foi nela que pude, enfim, fazer a comparação: quais seriam as diferenças das raças nelore —a mais encontrada no Brasil—, angus e o wagyu.Cada uma me proporcionou sensações bem diversas e deu para notar as peculiaridades.O corte foi comum a todas: o ancho. Todos preparados na churrasqueira, e todos servidos no mesmo ponto.O Nelore tem um sabor marcante, com que estamos mais acostumados no dia a dia, porém com uma maciez bem menor se comparado às outras duas raças. O angus trouxe um sabor de carne menos acentuado, mas com uma maciez a mais em comparação ao nelore. Mais Enquanto isso, o wagyu já não tinha tanto o sabor de carne que conhecemos bem, mas era uma carne extremamente macia, suculenta e saborosa, pela sua alta quantidade de gordura entremeada.Wagyu é uma raça de gado japonês. "Wa" significa "do Japão", e "gyu" quer dizer "gado". Apesar de ter origem no Japão, já encontramos produtores de wagyu no Brasil, como, por exemplo, a Fazenda Alto Paraíso, que tem sua criação em Boituva, interior de São Paulo.Seu custo está ligado ao grau de marmoreiro, que vai de uma escala de um ao 12 —quanto mais alta sua classificação na escala, mais caro será o corte. Já encontrei preços de R$ 60 kg do coxão mole de wagyu, e bifes de chorizo que valem mais de R$ 1.000.A raça exige mais cuidados na criação e a produção é feita de forma artesanal. Os animais são criados soltos no pasto, onde eles se alimentam de capim de alta qualidade e recebem também ração balanceada.E, para terem um depósito maior de gordura entremeada, são confinados durante um ano —muito diferente das outras raças, que são mais precoces e são abatidas o quanto antes para abastecer o mercado.Vale a pena ter essa experiência. Aconselho chamar uns amigos para dividir o custo, e degustar em conjunto. Cada um come um pedacinho e não fica salgado para ninguém. Será uma experiência nova no seu churrasco!Mas, fique ligado: por causa da sua grande quantidade de gordura, podem subir labaredas na brasa. Então, não saia do lado da churrasqueira e, caso isso aconteça, é só mexer a brasa para dissipar o fogo. | comida |
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] | A escolha de Alex Atala de recolher abordagens múltiplas, por meio de vozes diversas, e imprimir ao seu recém-lançado "Manihot utilissima pohl: Mandioca" um olhar complexo à raiz do Brasil remete à própria polivalência da planta que dá nome à obra.São mais de 400 páginas, nas quais o chef reúne pesquisadores, cronistas, indigenistas e fotógrafos com o mesmo objetivo: discorrer sobre a mandioca e sua natureza tropical. Resulta daí um relato que desperta um sentimento nativista e coloca esse tubérculo em seu devido patamar de importância no Brasil.A obra devolve à mandioca, espécie amazônica de maior importância em âmbito mundial, sua dignidade, e relembra que a nossa alimentação repousou por séculos em seu cultivo e em seu consumo, que outrora também contribuiu para o processo de aculturação dos portugueses na colônia e para o próprio movimento de incorporação dos índios ao processo civilizatório no período pós-cabralino.Seus capítulos vão desvendando com destreza as camadas dessa planta, que nos é integralmente útil na alimentação —folhas, raízes e caules—, e que, no passado, permitiu a sobrevivência e o espraiamento dos indígenas, sendo hoje incorporada de modo permanente às nossas tradições alimentares.Embora não seja a única obra dedicada à mandioca —houve, por exemplo, o ensaio do baiano Pinto de Aguiar (1910-1991), no qual ele abordou aspectos históricos, econômicos, científicos e bromatológicos da planta, em 1982— "Mandioca" é um compilado inédito e fresco, que também recorre à historiografia e, um passo à frente, a estudos arqueológicos que auxiliam na escavação de sua origem e domesticação. São recortes que lhe dão estofo, atualidade e singularidade.Vestígios sugerem que houve formas milenares de cultivo, que venceram o tempo e se perpetuaram, silenciosamente, entre as populações tradicionais do Brasil —indígenas, quilombolas, ribeirinhas, caiçaras, caipiras, sertanejas.No livro, textos são amparados por mapas e diagramas. Ficam ilustradas a domesticação da planta na Amazônia e as redes de circulação de variedades da mandioca na região do Alto Rio Negro —por meio de instituições, homens e mulheres. Estas, inclusive, têm sua relevância explícita.São elas as principais responsáveis pela grande diversidade da mandioca, resultado de fluxos intensos de plantas, cujas diferenças são expressas em características como produtividade, cor, gosto e resistência.Sua participação entre os brasileiros tem tanta expressão que é ilustrada, ainda, num ensaio fotográfico de Pedro Martinelli, o maior etnógrafo visual da Amazônia, feito com a comunidade Baniwa, no extremo noroeste do Brasil, na fronteira com a Colômbia. As imagens surgem alicerçadas por texto de Beto Ricardo, antropólogo do Instituto Socioambiental (ISA), que percorre o cotidiano da indígena Claudia, que se ocupava de colher mandioca-brava e transformá-la em comida —beijus, mingaus e farinhas. Mais A mulher volta a ser eixo narrativo pela antropóloga Flora Dias Cabalzar, cuja pesquisa sobre povoados indígenas na Amazônia também revela mulheres responsáveis pelo preparo das refeições, pelo trato da roça e pela manipulação da mandioca —homens dedicam-se à caça e à pesca.Elas aparecem ainda como provedoras de saliva no preparo do caxiri, bebida de mandioca alva e levemente fermentada, com aspecto semelhante ao da coalhada de leite animal. As bebidas derivadas da mandioca rendem outro curioso capítulo.O extrato assinado pela ecóloga, artesã e herborista Laura Mantovani dedica-se a traçar o emaranhado da vasta nomenclatura que envolve a mandioca —macaxeira, aipim? Lendas e mitos a respeito de sua origem são tratados em outro trecho.Mantovani recebe suporte de um inventário de nomes extraídos da terra indígena do Paraná, de povos quilombolas do Vale do Ribeira (SP), de agricultores do agreste da Paraíba e de um dossiê do sistema agrícola do Rio Negro, no Amazonas. Mais Embora distintos de região para região, identifica-se um consenso quanto aos nomes populares: a mandioca-mansa e a mandioca-brava são termos habituais em todo país. Ambas as variedades pertencem à mesma espécie botânica, embora a última tenha maior concentração de ácido cianídrico, que a torna venenosa.O livro desperta o leitor para a ameaça que essa biodiversidade, alimentada por gerações de agricultores, sofre ao surgir ações como a da Embrapa, que, a partir de estudos das variedades de mandiocas e de macaxeira, promovem seleções genéticas que obedecem à lógica da produtividade, da resistência e do mercado. Essa prática fere sistemas ancestrais e empobrece a sociedade e o capital biológico de um país.Sobre fazeres tradicionais, Neide Rigo, grande conhecedora de mandioca do Brasil, dá rica contribuição ao relatar seus subprodutos, observados em viagens pelo Brasil.Ela também divide um saber popular ao passear pelos tipos de farinha, diferenciadas por mínimas nuances, que, segundo ela, devem ser respeitadas e valorizadas. A farinha "quente", por exemplo, é crocante e fresca; a "fria", tem grãos murchos, que absorvem umidade e não se rompem.A voz do próprio Atala aparece pouco —e, às vezes, custa a ser identificada. Em uma das ocasiões, ele passeia pela farofa, em preparos que afirmam a nossa identidade brasileira. A farofa, que pressupõe a combinação de uma farinha e uma gordura, na opinião do chef, deve ser exportada para o mundo, pois é uma marca da nossa cultura, de fácil preparo, e que pode ser reproduzida em qualquer lugar.A experiência pessoal de Atala e seu repertório enriquecem o texto. Sua voz surge com mais força e limpidez no capítulo em que traz receitas do D.O.M. e de convidados, e no qual debate a inovação com base na tradição —um princípio que sempre o acompanha. A partir dele, Atala compartilha com o leitor alguns dos extensos e minuciosos processos pelos quais a criação de uma receita de seu restaurante atravessa.Um caso simbólico, do cardápio intitulado Pré-Descobrimento, é o da bala de cachaça, envolta em polvilho doce finíssimo. Resulta translúcida, a exibir uma formiga em seu interior, que revela o perfume do capim-santo na boca, em fotografia precisa de Sérgio Coimbra, que ajuda a elevar a gastronomia à arte.Depois de apresentadas as receitas do D.O.M. mais emblemáticas como registro histórico, um apêndice reúne chefs e amigos de Atala com suas receitas com mandioca.O trabalho de Mara Salles surge impresso no barreado (prato clássico de Morretes, no Paraná), com farinha polvilhada de Santa Catarina, assim como receitas de Helena Rizzo (biscoito de polvilho), de Claude Troisgros (mil-folhas de mandioca) e de Rodrigo Oliveira (o dadinho de tapioca).Atala não deixa de se referir a um de seus mestres, Paulo Martins (e sua família), que militava pela gastronomia brasileira e pelos ingredientes paraenses, e à herança de um tucupi que, hoje, é distribuído no país.O livro faz uma ode à mandioca e lhe devolve a honradez já mencionada por intelectuais como Câmara Cascudo (1898-1986), essenciais na construção do reconto da história da alimentação no Brasil, agora continuada. | comida |
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] | Confesso que sou fissurada em realities e, como toda BBB maníaca, adoro acompanhar os barracos —aliás, a gente torce por isso.Mas, além das tretas, tem outra coisa em que eu sempre reparo: as comidas, tanto as preparadas pelos grupos do Vip e da Xepa, quanto as das festas do líder e as dos almoços do anjo.E se tem um prato que é unanimidade, que fez parte de todas as edições, foi o churrasco. Pesquisei edição por edição e descobri que todas, sem falta, tiveram carnes assadas na churrasqueira.No BBB 22, por exemplo. Em pleno dia de eliminação, estava lá o churrasco na casa. Um dos patrocinadores do reality bancou uma atividade onde os brothers puderam escolher 12 produtos pelo app para animar o churrasco.Tinha mesa de pingue-pongue, vôlei aquático, boias, cerveja, gin... No menu, coração de galinha, carnes bovinas, linguiça, legumes na brasa e acompanhamentos.Na edição passada, o BBB 21, Rodrigo Hilbert apareceu no telão para os brothers dando instruções de preparo para o lançamento de uma linha de churrasco de um dos patrocinadores do programa.Além disso, na festa do líder Nego Di, com tema barbearia, foi montada uma churrasqueira em que Caio atuou como churrasqueiro oficial. O brother recebeu vários elogios pela sua performance na grelha.Ah, e não podemos esquecer o "churrasquinho de Juliette", que rolava diariamente.O BBB 20 também teve festa do líder com direito a churrasco. Nele, a temática foi canteiro de obras para o "churras do Prior". Como todo brasileiro sabe, subiu a laje, tem churrasco.Em edições anteriores teve churrasco churrasco com vinho, festa gaúcha, improvisação com churrasco na chapa de ferro, tudo para matar a vontade de comer uma carne assada. Mais Teve até churrasco com gostinho de remorso no BBB 16, quando dois participantes usaram o "dinheiro" coletivo da vaquinha entre a galera para comprar um churrasco para duas pessoas —no caso, só para eles.Quem lembra? Depois de a galera toda ficar bem irritada e ouvir o Bial dar bronca, bateu o arrependimento. Não julgo, eu também ficaria com vontade.E, no BBB 6, teve uma participação muito especial: o saudoso Marcos Bassi, açougueiro e mestre churrasqueiro mais famoso de todos os tempos.No programa, Bassi ensinou sobre cortes de carnes, dicas de utensílios, e preparou um churrasco para os Brothers. Como eu queria estar lá!O BBB 22 mal começou e já estou ansiosa para saber quem nessa nova edição vai pedir churrasco na festa do líder.E você, leitor, qual comida pediria se estivesse no BBB e a festa fosse sua? | comida |
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] | Jornalismo é uma profissão que faz a gente pagar a língua de vez em quando. Há menos de três meses, eu escrevi sobre o copo Stanley no blog Cozinha Bruta:"Se me virem com um copo desses… foi presente. Mas não vão me ver. Se eu ganhar um, vou beber escondido".Eis que eu comprei o tal do copo. Fui reembolsado, mas comprei. E aqui estou, narrando minha experiência com o artigo de ostentação mais topzera dos últimos verões.Devo presumir que ainda haja quem não saiba o que é um copo Stanley. Trata-se de um copo, obviamente. Um copo térmico, feito de aço inoxidável, cujo propósito é manter frias as bebidas frias —e quentes as bebidas quentes.Grande coisa, né? Também foi o que eu pensei quando ouvi falar do Stanley.O que intriga é a modinha, quase um culto, criada em torno de um copo térmico. Um copo térmico que chega a custar quase R$ 200.O Stanley virou item obrigatório dos garotões sarados que jogam beach tennis e vão beber cerveja depois. É o copo que mais passeia no mundo: vai com o dono para a praia, para o bar, para o Instagram. Aparentemente, você é um zé-ninguém fracassado se não possuir um copo Stanley.Enquanto uns ostentam, outros tiram barato da ostentação. A stanleymania foi tachada de frívola e brega. Alguém lançou um copo americano de vidro com a estampa "Stanley é meuzovo". Polarização total.Nem sempre foi assim. A Stanley é uma empresa americana que existe desde 1913, quando não havia TikTok. O negócio cresceu muito na Segunda Guerra, com o fornecimento de garrafas térmicas para pilotos de avião.A tecnologia de isolamento térmico inventada pela Stanley foi usada no transporte de órgãos para transplante e de sêmen congelado de touros.Para pessoas físicas, a companhia especializou-se em produzir garrafas, copos e outros artefatos para trilhas, camping e tudo quanto é atividade ao ar livre.Artigos robustos e duráveis, o que fez nascer o brilhante chamariz marqueteiro: garantia vitalícia. Quem não topa desembolsar 200 contos num copo que, além de ser um baita de um copo, é o último copo que você precisará comprar na vida?Mais de um século depois, o copo térmico virou febre no litoral brasileiro. O registro mais antigo do culto ao Stanley data de janeiro de 2020, numa reportagem do jornal A Gazeta, de Vitória.Diz o texto que o copo "virou moda entre os mais ligados nas novidades no Espírito Santo". Segundo a mesma fonte, a stanleymania se originou nas areias de Bacutia, Três Praias e Praia da Aldeia, em Guarapari –pontos de veraneio da elite capixaba. Mais O que, no copo Stanley, seduz multidões? Dizem que é sua capacidade de manter a cerveja gelada por 4,5 horas. Mas quem fica com a cerveja por tanto tempo no copo? Não importa. Vamos testar a bagaça.Comprei o copo pelo canal de vendas oficial da Stanley. Peguei o "beer pint" na versão com tampa (e abridor de garrafa acoplado!)... se é para fazer, façamos direito. Deu R$ 199, mais frete. A versão sem tampa custa R$ 149.Encomenda recebida, ao primeiro teste. Beber cerveja, simplesmente.Na velocidade em que eu costumo beber, a função térmica do copo Stanley não faz grande diferença. Bem perceptível é a sensação metálica na boca, bem parecida com a das velhas e amassadas canecas de alumínio da churrascaria Boi na Brasa.Definitivamente prefiro beber no copo de vidro.A prova seguinte foi mais controlada. Resfriei previamente o copo (como recomenda o manual) e deixei a cerveja lá dentro pelas 4,5 horas que o Stanley se compromete a mantê-la gelada.Ao fim desse intervalo, voltei ao Stanley. A cerveja havia se aquecido um pouco –era uma noite bem quente em São Paulo–, mas ainda estava numa temperatura aceitável.O problema estava no gás, ou na falta dele. Depois de 4,5 horas, a cerveja estava previsivelmente choca. Foi direto para o ralo.Para o último teste, enchi o Stanley com água e cubos de gelo e o deixei ao lado da minha cama pela noite toda. A promessa da marca é conservar bebidas com gelo por espantosas 15 horas.Não esperei tanto, mas depois de nove ou dez horas ainda havia gelo boiando na água. Ponto para o copo Stanley. Mas não me parece o suficiente para desembolsar duzentão. Mais Um pouco antes de começar a escrever este texto, o sommelier de cerveja Edu Passarelli apareceu todo pimpão com o Stanley, numa foto de Instagram, na piscina. Pô, sommelier! Mandei mensagem para ele: "Qual é a desse copo?""Para piscina e praia é ótimo", respondeu, com entusiasmo, o sommelier. "Nessas situações, a cerveja esquenta bem mais rápido do que o ritmo em que eu bebo. No Stanley, o copo até aquece por fora, mas a cerveja continua gelada."E nas outras situações? "Aí é bem melhor beber no copo de vidro."Bia Amorim, também sommelier de cerveja, concorda: "É um bom copo para vários momentos, mas não todos." "Não arrumaria briga por ele", completa, em referência aos ânimos exaltados das torcidas pró e contra o Stanley.Quem falou em briga? O copo é excelente, só faltou a piscina. Isso eu não tenho. Da próxima vez, compro uma piscina e mando a nota fiscal para reembolso. | comida |
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] | Vestindo um tubinho preto, luvas de renda, colar de pérolas e máscara com cristais Swarovski, Paris Hilton vai às compras em um mercado local para garantir os ingredientes do jantar.Pede quatro filés mignon ao açougueiro, aproveita para comprar duas bolotas pequenas de trufas negras vindas da Itália e algumas folhas de ouro comestível para deixar o jantar mais "glamouroso, claro", como diz.Suas convidadas naquela noite serão sua mãe e sua irmã, que, além de se sentarem para comer, chegaram um pouco antes da hora para ajudar a moça na cozinha.Ao ver as folhas de ouro na bancada, a irmã pergunta: "Que gosto tem isso?". Hilton responde: "Dinheiro!".O programa, que mostra as peripécias da famosa na cozinha, "Cooking with Paris", lançado em agosto passado pela Netflix, foca nas anedóticas e extravagantes práticas adotadas pela socialite na hora de cozinhar para convidadas famosas como Kim Kardashian ou a cantora Demi Lovato.Claramente a patricinha acostumada às capas de revistas não tem muita intimidade com cortes (usa faca de manteiga para picar salsinha), panelas e, sejamos sinceros, preocupações com a higiene.Durante a preparação, depois de algumas horas para escolher o look, usa uma blusa com plumas nas mangas, misturando com a mão manteiga com as trufas negras raladas. Ou decide que é melhor lavar a carne debaixo da torneira antes de grelhá-la."Eu adoro cozinhar, mas não sou uma chef treinada e nem pretendo ser", diz ela, logo na abertura do programa. "Quero mostrar que qualquer bitch também pode cozinhar."O mote de Hilton, na verdade, é uma tendência recente (e crescente) nos novos programas gastronômicos, principalmente em plataformas de streaming e canais no YouTube.Saem de cena os profissionais mais habilidosos e entram as celebridades que se atrapalham nas receitas, erram os pontos e protagonizam desastres comuns a qualquer cozinheiro amador.De Selena Gomez a Sandy, de Amy Schumer a Adriane Galisteu, os programas contemporâneos aprofundam um movimento que já tinha começado em canais fechados, em que atores e celebridades aparecem não só em novelas e programas de auditório, mas colocando a mão na massa."A culinária na TV atingiu um ponto de saturação", analisa o crítico de TV da Folha Tony Goes. Para ele, os antigos programas de receitas surgidos nos anos 1960 e 1970 deram lugar a novos formatos, como o boom dos realities competitivos, por exemplo. Mais Apesar de ainda existirem programas que ensinam técnicas, ele acredita que o foco agora é no entretenimento em si. "As pessoas assistem não para aprender a fazer este ou aquele prato, mas para se divertir. É entretenimento em primeiro, segundo e terceiro lugares."Em seu programa, Sandy recebe ajuda profissional de cozinheiros famosos (como Paola Carosella e Thiago Castanho) para cozinhar em sua casa, com a presença da família.Derruba o ovo no chão, lasca o esmalte da unha com a faca e ensaia um "galopeeeeeeira" a plenos pulmões enquanto verte uma massa na assadeira."Tem sido uma experiência maravilhosa, divertidíssima", assume a cantora no teaser do programa. "Eu fico mesmo muito concentrada, e o pessoal aqui em casa fala que eu estou mandando bem", orgulha-se.A gastronomia tem se tornado, nos últimos anos, uma forma para muitos famosos ampliarem suas imagens, associando-as a uma área diferente da que em que eles originalmente se destacaram.Muitos também pegaram carona na visibilidade que a gastronomia ganhou na atual cultura pop para "sair da geladeira" e aproveitar a visibilidade que pode gerar até novas oportunidades comerciais."No mundo hiperconectado em que vivemos, quase qualquer exposição é válida", explica Goes. A participação em um programa sobre comida pode gerar mais engajamento nas redes sociais, e assim por diante.O ator Stanley Tucci, conhecido por papéis em filmes como "O Diabo Veste Prada" e "Um Olhar do Paraíso" (para o qual foi indicado ao Oscar), virou um trending topic no Twitter quando estreou seu programa gastronômico pela CNN ("Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy"), no qual percorre a Itália para comer e falar de sua paixão pela comida. Mais A repercussão foi tamanha que ele acaba de lançar um livro sobre o tema e virou figurinha assídua em programas de entrevistas na televisão norte-americana."A comida tem esse enorme poder engajador", disse, no programa do apresentador James Corden.Em muitos novos formatos, aliás, a comida tornou-se apenas um pretexto, já que quase não se mostram mais ingredientes ou passos de receitas.No novo programa da GNT, "Bem Juntinhos", o casal Fernanda Lima e Rodrigo Hilbert recebe artistas: ela os entrevista enquanto ele cozinha.Durante os cerca de 30 minutos de duração, nenhuma tábua é construída e nem sequer uma dica de cozinha é partilhada: comida, mesmo, só em curtos takes secundários entre os papos com Dani Calabresa ou Gaby Amarantos.Mesma fórmula segue o "Hessel’s Kitchen", programa culinário lançado no YouTube pela plataforma de conteúdo geek Omelete.Ali, o apresentador e fundador do site, Marcelo Hessel, também cozinha enquanto conversa com seus convidados sobre assuntos como misticismo ou relacionamentos.Para ele, a forma como as pessoas consomem conteúdo audiovisual mudou muito, à medida que as transmissões ao vivo e as comunidades como a Twitch se tornaram a nova rede social, gerando outras formas de interação."O tipo de vídeo professoral que eu sempre fiz como crítico de cinema tem dado lugar a bate-papos informais e a uma aproximação mesmo que coloca o streamer e o público num mesmo patamar, quase uma intimidade", opina. Mais Na pandemia, Hessel passou a cozinhar cada vez mais e postar seus preparos nas redes sociais, o que gerou um engajamento interessante com seus seguidores que o fez pensar que poderia ser bom para um novo formato de programa."É muito comum que as pessoas inclusive deem dicas de como melhorar o que eu estou preparando, então o programa nasceu menos de um lugar de autoridade e mais para testar se essa aproximação entre leigos, eu de um lado e o espectador de outro", afirma.No fundo, ele diz, os ingredientes mais importantes são os convidados, que vão do psicanalista Christian Dunker, o ex-BBB João Pedrosa, à escritora Natália Timerman, que "toparam participar sem sequer saber o que eu ia cozinhar ou como"."Eu cozinho com medidas no olho, cada carbonara que eu faço fica de um jeito. O programa não tem esse objetivo de ser um lugar de autoridade [na cozinha]", ressalta.Como resume o crítico Tony Goes, os novos programas de comida querem entreter, e não ensinar. "Quem quiser aprender a cozinhar, que compre um livro ou faça um curso", conclui. | comida |
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] | Território com a presença de cozinhas de todo o mundo, São Paulo acaba de receber dois novos representantes dos sabores do nordeste brasileiro, pelas mãos de chefs consagrados em suas regiões —o paraibano Onildo Rocha, que ganhou fama pelo restaurante Cozinha Roccia, de João Pessoa, e o alagoano Wanderson Medeiros, do Picuí, de Maceió— ambos também muito conhecidos por seus bufês que atendem festas locais.Rocha, 44, é o pivô de um projeto enorme, e ambicioso, que na verdade transborda as fronteiras de seu estado. Não se trata de trazer a São Paulo uma filial de seu restaurante: o chef assume as cozinhas do complexo bancado pela Mastercard chamado de Priceless, aberto em outubro nos altos do edifício do shopping Light, numa área emblemática da capital paulista, em frente ao Theatro Municipal e ao viaduto do Chá.A área reúne o restaurante Notiê, o bar Abaru, um ponto de café e o terraço Botâma, com vista para o teatro, além de um espaço de intervenções artísticas. A parte gastronômica conta com vários curadores: além do chef, a sommelière Andrea Vilas Boas, o mixologista Ale d’Agostino, o especialista em cerveja Junior Bottura e o barista Boram Um.Eles devem viajar periodicamente pelo país para trazer, em cada temporada, menus e bebidas inspiradas em diferentes regiões. A primeira delas, que está em vigor até março, é baseada na região do chef, mas não apenas na sua Paraíba.O atual tema do menu do restaurante Notiê é "Sertões", inspirado no rio São Francisco, que a equipe percorreu durante 11 dias, da foz à nascente, por cinco estados, para conhecer os pequenos produtores de onde trouxeram os ingredientes. (O relato das viagens pode ser visto na webserie disponível no canal MastercardBrasil do YouTube.)São duas formas de adentrar a interpretação do chef para os produtos e sabores explorados na expedição. No restaurante Notiê eles aparecem de forma mais próxima ao do seu restaurante de João Pessoa: são pratos mais autorais, com soluções contemporâneas, aqui servidos em menus-degustação (de dez tempos, R$ 390, ou 14 tempos, R$ 475).Belamente apresentados, eles podem ser um pitu no vapor ao molho bisque com musseline de macaxeira, acompanhado de alho-poró e finalizado com crocante de macaxeira (que aqui mais ao sul também chamamos de mandioca ou aipim). Ou, adentrando mais o sertão, o pé de porco com inhame; e o cabrito com rapadura, cenouras e cuscuz sertanejo.Para finalizar, doce de caju do cerrado com praliné de castanha de baru e sorvete de castanha-de-caju também segue a toada de utilizar ingredientes bem regionais.Já no bar Abaru, a mesma inspiração se traduz em receitas mais coloquiais, porções e pequenos pratos para acompanhar a noitada de coquetéis igualmente temperados com sabores nordestinos.Caso das ostras frescas de mangue com vinagrete de maracujá da caatinga e raspadinha de cachaça (R$ 69); do tartar de carne de sol com tapioca suflada com maionese de coentro e picles de maxixe (R$ 52); e da barriga de porco com munguzá de milho amarelo, salada de couve e farofa de cítricos (R$ 62).Uma dificuldade que o lugar deve enfrentar é estar numa região que é ao mesmo tempo marco histórico da cidade, e ao mesmo tempo abandonada no período noturno (por isso a entrada para o complexo se dá pela rua de trás, onde os carros deixam os clientes dentro da garagem, o que é uma pena mas transmite mais segurança).Já o Canto do Picuí fica no alegre burburinho de um recente destino gastronômico paulistano, apelidado de baixo Pinheiros.A sucessão de restaurantes animados inclui agora a casa do chef Wanderson Medeiros, 42, que aqui apresenta um menu misto. São pratos tradicionais do seu restaurante Picuí, de Maceió, onde ele representa a quarta geração de uma família de açougueiros dedicada, há 132 anos, à produção de carne de sol; e outros —a maioria— entradas e pratos mais trabalhados que ele serve nas recepções que organiza para os casamentos de São Miguel dos Milagres, no litoral norte de Alagoas.Nestes, entram também ingredientes "estrangeiros", mas integrados num universo inspirado nos produtos locais, como os mariscos sururu e massunim, o siri e a carne de sol.Em São Paulo eles são servidos em louças (e envoltos em decoração) de artesãos de sua terra. São entradas como minicroquetas cremosas de siri alagoano com creme de limão siciliano (R$ 49); croquetas de codornas guisadas, receita da mãe do chef (R$ 39); beijus crocantes de tapioca com carne de sol desfiada com nata (R$ 44); e bobó de camarões com farofa crocante de brioche e castanhas (R$ 59).Entre os pratos principais, há a indispensável carne de sol (mais salgadinha) com creme de queijo coalho e chips de macaxeira (R$ 86); e o bloco de costela bovina prensada com seu molho e toque de rapadura sobre musseline de raízes (mandioca, batata e mandioquinha, R$ 77,00). Mas também, fugindo do sertão, há pratos mais do mar: peixe com sururu e farofa de castanhas, coco e banana-passa (R$ 89); e arroz cremoso de camarão com toque de moqueca e cubos de queijo coalho (R$ 87).São Paulo conhece outras cozinhas do nordeste. Do afamado Mocotó, com seus pratos do sertão pernambucano, ao brejeiro Jesuíno Brilhante, com a carne de sol do Rio Grande do Norte, às cozinhas do interior da Bahia como as da Casa de Ieda (da Chapada Diamantina) e da Baianeira (do Vale do Jequitinhonha) —apenas para citar algumas. A elas, somam-se agora Onildo Rocha e Wanderson Medeiros.Os nordestinos, que tanto contribuíram para construir São Paulo (apesar dos arroubos racistas de governantes que preferem o cheiro de milícias ao do povo), merecem ter seus sabores espalhados tanto por prosaicas casas do norte, onde encontramos o conforto do caldo de mocotó com cachaça, quanto em projetos mais ambiciosos. Que a cidade aproveite seus sabores e lhes preste a devida homenagem.PricelessEdifício Alexandre Mackenzie (shopping Light), r. Formosa, 157, rooftop (entrada exclusiva no estacionamento do prédio) priceless.com/saopaulorestauranteCanto do PicuíRua Ferreira de Araújo, 329, Pinheiros, São Paulo, tel. 011 95583-7134 @cantodopicui | comida |
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] | O preço da carne continua subindo e pesando no bolso das famílias brasileiras. Entre os motivos que impulsionaram essa disparada, estão a alta do dólar, aumento nas exportações (o que diminui a oferta no país), além de fatores como transporte, logística, armazenamento, aumento nos insumos de alimentação dos bois, entre outros.Não vou entrar nesses assuntos, pois meu negócio mesmo é assar carne. Por isso, o que eu trago hoje são alternativas para você driblar a facada do caixa do mercado e não deixar de desfrutar do momento de lazer e confraternização que é um bom churrasco.Esqueça a tradicional picanha: agora, é hora de investir em cortes de frango e porco. Além de serem proteínas mais em conta atualmente, ainda são carnes que, ao contrário do que a maioria pensa, não se resumem à asinha e à linguiça.Sim, pode acreditar, existem diversas opções de cortes para grelha e temperos. A ideia aqui é aumentar a quantidade dessas carnes, diminuir a proporção de carne bovina, e continuar fazendo um churrasco diversificado e divertido.Vale lembrar que todos os cortes que são extraídos do bovino também podem ser retirados do suíno. A diferença é o tamanho do animal. Portanto, é uma ótima opção de fazer aquele charme no churrasco com cortes nobres como o prime rib, tomahawk, short rib e o assado de tira.O assado de tira nada mais é do que a costelinha suína em cortes longitudinais. Peça para que cortem da parte mais carnuda da costelinha, com até seis ossos.O short rib é equivalente ao acém com osso, chamado também de copa lombo -e é uma delícia!Já o tomahawk e o prime rib são cortes extraídos da bisteca. A diferença entre os dois é o tamanho do osso. No prime rib o osso é mais curto, e, no tomahawk, o dobro do tamanho do prime rib. Peça para cortar com três dedos de espessura para levar para a grelha. Mais É claro que, neste caso, a boa vontade do açougueiro vai te ajudar, e muito. Por isso, eleja um açougue de confiança, faça amizade, e já deixe separada aquela caixinha para o café. Você vai ver que nunca um pingado trouxe tantos benefícios.Falando de frango, agora. Bons cortes para investir são a asinha, a sobrecoxa e até mesmo o peito. Sim, leitor, dá pra fazer um bom peito sem esturricar e ficar ressecado. O segredo aqui é preparar o peito com sua pele, e em fogo médio, para ir assando lentamente.O bom é que tanto os cortes suínos como os de aves combinam com qualquer tipo de tempero, desde o agridoce até o basicão do dia a dia, como cebola e alho.Sugiro aqui três opções: sal temperado com ervas, marinada coreana e marinada caseira. Vamos às receitas.INGREDIENTES1 xícara de sal grosso1/2 colher de sopa de folhas de alecrim1 colher de sopa de tomilho1 colher de sopa de manjericãoPREPAROColoque o sal groso no liquidificador junto com alecrim, tomilho e manjericão. Pulse até que o tamanho do sal grosso quebre em 1/3, formando uma espécie de sal de parrilla. Mexa com uma colher entre os intervalos, para que tudo misture bem.A marinada coreana traz uma explosão de sabores e é agridoce, o que combina muito bem com porco, frango e peixes.INGREDIENTES1 colher de sopa de Gochujang (pasta coreana de pimenta fermentada).1 colher de sopa de óleo de gergelim.¼ xícara de xarope de glucose.1 colher de sopa de vinagre de arroz.¼ xícara de molho de soja.1 colher de sopa de gengibre ralado.2 dentes de alho ralados.2 colheres de sopa de cebolinha picada.Gergelim para finalizar.PREPAROMisture os ingredientes e deixe marinando no mínimo 2 horas, até 24 horas.INGREDIENTES1 cebola em pedaços3 dentes de alho3 colheres de sopa de azeite1 colher de sopa de sal1 colher de sopa de salsinha e cebolinha1 pimenta dedo de moça1 copo de águaPREPAROEm um liquidificar coloque a cebola em pedaços, os dentes de alho, o azeite, o sal, a salsinha e cebolinha, a pimenta e a água. Este tempero é o suficiente para temperar 1 kg de carne de porco ou frango, e o ideal é deixar marinando de um dia para o outro na geladeira.Experimente os três e depois me conte de você mais gostou! | comida |
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] | Não é todo mundo que mora em apartamento que tem o privilégio de ter uma churrasqueira, seja por falta de espaço, por morar em imóveis pequenos ou mais antigos, ou, ainda, por ter que acatar regras rígidas de condomínio. A boa notícia é que, qualquer que seja o motivo, é possível, sim, fazer um bom churrasco dentro de casa.Existem múltiplas soluções para estes casos, a começar pela churrasqueira elétrica. São vários modelos desses equipamentos no mercado, e o que você deve prestar atenção na hora de escolher são a potência e o tamanho que lhe agrada.Uma dica é optar por churrasqueiras elétricas mais potentes, que têm um resultado melhor nos quesitos carne dourada e suculência. Com uma temperatura mais alta, você consegue um resultado mais semelhante ao da churrasqueira convencional.Ao trabalhar com este modelo, é importante deixá-la bem aquecida antes de colocar as carnes e vegetais. Para tanto, pré-aqueça a churrasqueira uns 15 minutos antes de utilizá-la. As proteínas devem estar em temperatura ambiente e o ideal é cortar a carne em bifes de dois dedos de espessura. Não dá certo fazer peças grandes de carne nas churrasqueiras elétricas.Outra solução é a fritadeira sem óleo, a famosa airfryer, que funciona como um mini forno de convecção. Nesse tipo de eletrodoméstico, o ar quente circula de forma uniforme, então, qualquer alimento colocado na grelha vai receber o calor de forma igual em todos os seus lados.Já preparei picanha, contrafilé, coxinha da asa, linguiça, e o bom é que tudo fica pronto em minutos, sem fumaça ou sujeira. Mais Tem gente que coloca um carvão aceso dentro do cesto para trazer sabor de churrasco, mas eu não aconselho, pois pode causar acidentes. Pra conseguir este gostinho, use lascas de lenha frutífera, coloque por 10 minutos antes na potência máxima, e depois leve sua carne para assar. Em dez minutos já dá pra servir uma carne mal-passada!Frigideiras de ferro são super bem-vindas, pois conseguem manter o calor por mais tempo. Então, na hora de virar a carne, a superfície de contato vai estar bem quente, criando uma crostinha saborosa de ambos os lados.Isso sem contar que é um utensílio que vai durar a vida inteira. Vale a pena o investimento. Inclusive, pode passar de geração para geração —já herdei algumas da minha vó! Mas, já vou logo avisando: faz muita fumaça e, quanto mais gordura a carne tiver, mais fumaça vai subir. Portanto, invista em um bom exaustor na sua cozinha.Tá, mas e o gosto de churrasco se eu escolhi a frigideira?Neste caso, existem fumaça em pó, fumaça líquida, sal defumado e —o meu preferido— o azeite defumado!O azeite defumado é um coringa na cozinha, dura uns seis meses facilmente, e é muito fácil de fazer.O primeiro passo é ativar o carvão. Pegue um pedaço pequeno de carvão e leve para a boca do fogão até ele ficar bem vermelhinho, no ponto de brasa. Depois, coloque em um pote de vidro esterilizado. Sabe aqueles de palmito? Então, guarde que ele sempre tem utilidade.Coloque azeite até a metade do pote e, se quiser, pode aromatizar acrescentando ervas frescas, como tomilho e alecrim. Daí, é só colocar a brasa dentro do pote e fechar com a tampa. A fumaça que se cria dentro do pote vai aromatizando o azeite, e, assim que acabar a fumaça, já pode usar!Além de usar nas carnes ou legumes antes de levar para a grelha, ou para marinar, dá pra usar também como tempero de saladas, rosbifes e lanches. E Pode armazenar fora da geladeira e até presentear a galera!Viu só? Agora não tem desculpa para não fazer churrasco, seja por preguiça de acender a churrasqueira, ou se não tiver outra opção. | comida |
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] | Algumas coisas não mudam e, no caso da premiação 50 Best América Latina, é a presença dos restaurantes peruanos entre as primeiras posições. Na cerimônia que aconteceu nesta segunda-feira (22), o primeiro e segundo colocados foram, respectivamente, o Central e o Maido, ambos em Lima, reafirmando uma hegemonia de quase uma década —furada apenas no ano passado pela parrilla Don Julio, que ficou em primeiro lugar.Entre os brasileiros, houve uma verdadeira dança das cadeiras: o mais bem colocado, o D.O.M (3ª posição), de Alex Atala, subiu dez posições. Na sequência, vieram os também paulistanos Maní (7º lugar), que subiu 16 posições, e a Casa do Porco (11ª colocação), que caiu sete —mas ainda detém a melhor classificação entre os brasileiros na versão global do ranking. Mais A premiação, batizada de Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2021: Pasado y Futuro, teve sua organização reformulada neste ano: a lista traz 100 restaurantes, em vez de 50 endereços como nas edições anteriores, e foi resultado de uma compilação feita com base nos votos das oito edições do prêmio, que aconteceram entre 2013 e 2020. O ranking é o braço regional do The World’s 50 Best, considerado o Oscar do setor e cuja versão mundial aconteceu mês passado na Antuérpia.Na sequência entre os restaurantes brasileiros vieram o carioca Lasai, que caiu uma posição e consta em 22º, e o Mocotó, que escalou dez colocações e agora está em 23º. Retornaram à lista o paulistano Fasano (66º lugar), depois de sete anos, e o carioca Oro (51º). Perderam posições o curitibano Manu (49º), o carioca Oteque (41º) e o paulistano Evvai (65º).Com a ampliação da lista, novos restaurantes brasileiros ganharam espaço no ranking. Entre os paulistanos, estão o Komah (88º), o Arturito (86º) e o Tordesilhas (75º). Outra novidade é a entrada de restaurantes de outras capitais brasileiras. Vitória está representada pelo Soeta (77º). Belo Horizonte, por sua vez, tem o restaurante Glouton, na posição de número 68, do chef Leonardo Paixão.Dois endereços paulistanos que haviam fechado as portas durante a pandemia foram lembrados: o Corrutela (90º), que também recebeu o prêmio de sustentabilidade, e o Tuju (54º). A novidade é que ambos irão reabrir em breve —o Corrutela em dezembro e o Tuju em meados de 2022, em novo endereço, já que sua antiga casa agora abriga o Tujuína.O evento aconteceu de forma virtual ano passado e neste ano teve celebrações simultâneas em sete países da América Latina para evitar deslocamentos aéreos. Receberam a festa Oaxaca (México), Mendoza (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Lima (Peru), Bogotá (Colômbia), Quito (Equador) e São Paulo. No Brasil, a festa foi marcada no novo teatro B32, projetado por Eiji Hayakawa, na avenida Faria Lima. Foi a primeira vez que São Paulo recebeu a cerimônia.Como parte da programação de 2021, também houve o anúncio de outros prêmios com brasileiros entre os finalistas. O Charco, em São Paulo, foi indicado ao One To Watch, reconhecimento dado a restaurantes "com potencial" que inauguraram nos últimos dois anos —vencido pelo Anafe, de Buenos Aires. Telma Shiraishi, do Aizomê, concorreu ao Chefs’ Choice Award - Best Reinvention, dado a um chef que se reinventou na pandemia, mas não foi escolhida. Telma viabilizou o Movimento Água no Feijão, que, com ajuda de voluntários, fez entrega de mais de cem mil marmitas para aplacar a fome.Alguns prêmios já haviam sido divulgados, como o The Macallan Icon, recebido pelo casal Rodrigo Oliveira, do Mocotó, e Adriana Salay, que é historiadora, pelo impacto social do projeto Quebrada Alimentada.Em abril deste ano outra premiação do World's 50 Best foi divulgada: o 50 Next, que elege jovens que estão moldando o futuro da gastronomia, com a presença de dois brasileiros. Diferente dos rankings de bares e restaurantes do 50 Best, a lista com jovens líderes não tem ordem de classificação. A atuação em regiões periféricas é um elemento em comum entre os dois representantes do Brasil: Mariana Aleixo está à frente de projetos no complexo da Maré, na zona norte carioca; Thiago Vinícius de Paula da Silva atua com a democratização do acesso a alimentos orgânicos no Campo Limpo, zona Sul de São Paulo. Mais Conheça os 10 melhores restaurantes da América Latina e os brasileiros da lista1.Central (Lima, Peru) 2. Maido (Lima, Peru) 3. D.O.M. (São Paulo, Brasil) 4. Astrid y Gaston (Lima, Peru) 5. Pujol (Cidade do México, México) 6. Boragó (Santigo, Chile) 7. Maní (São Paulo, Brasil) 8. Quintonil (Cidade do México, México) 9. Tegui (Buenos Aires, Argentina) 10. Don Julio (Bueno Aires, Argentina) 11. A Casa do Porco (São Paulo, Brasil) ... 22. Lasai (Rio de Janeiro, Brasil) 23 . Mocotó (São Paulo, Brasil) ... 41. Oteque (Rio de Janeiro, Brasil) ... 49. Manu (Curitiba, Brasil) ... 51. Oro (Rio de Janeiro, Brasil) ... 54. Tuju (São Paulo, Brasil) ... 65. Evvai (São Paulo, Brasil) 66. Fasano (São Paulo, Brasil) ... 68. Glouton (Belo Horizonte, Brasil) ... 75. Tordesilhas (São Paulo, Brasil) ... 77. Soeta (Vitória, Brasil) ... 86. Arturito (São Paulo, Brasil) 88. Komah (São Paulo, Brasil) ... 90. Corrutela (São Paulo, Brasil) | comida |
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] | Para iniciar o assunto sobre pontos da carne, primeiro a gente tem que entender que existem basicamente dois tipos de carne: as duras, ricas em colágeno, e as macias.Pra gente comer de uma maneira satisfatória e ter o ápice na degustação das carnes duras —como é o caso do peito, capa de filé, costela, cupim etc—, é preciso um ponto mais elevado para fazer a hidrólise, que é a quebra do colágeno.Em resumo, para transformar esse colágeno em gelatina e água.Com essas carnes, a gente vai conseguir esse processo geralmente a partir dos 90ºC —ou seja, com a carne bem passada. Então, para carnes duras, a gente vai trabalhar com elas por um bom tempo. Vai assar as carnes e deixá-las com temperatura interna acima desses tais 90ºC.Por exemplo: com o cupim eu costumo trabalhar a 94ºC. Um peito, no mínimo 96ºC, e a costela, 92ºC. Ou seja, as deixo assando por um longo período até ficarem macias e bem passadas. Já as carnes consideradas macias podem ser feitas no ponto que a gente quiser: malpassada, ponto menos, ao ponto, ponto mais e bem passada. Existe até um sexto ponto, o blue, em que ela é só selada e fica totalmente crua por dentro.Mas vamos falar dos pontos, porque, para conseguir o ponto blue, é só selar a carne em alta temperatura.Para atingir os pontos corretos, o que eu costumo fazer é primeiro selar a carne em alta temperatura, para fazer uma boa reação de maillard, e deixar a coloração bem dourada, com uma crosta por fora.Depois, coloco essas carnes em uma região da churrasqueira com menos calor, para ir acertando o ponto, tentando preservar ao máximo a suculência da carne.Então, o que eu faço? Selo a carne, coloco no segundo andar ou numa zona com menos calor na própria grelha, e vou tocando na carne.Aí entra a regrinha da mão.Ela envolve tocar tocar na maçã da mão (o monte de Vênus) e compará-la com a firmeza da carne.Se a sensação é a mesma ao tocar, com o indicador, na carne e na mão, é sinal de que eu tenho uma carne malpassada.Se, para o toque, junto o indicador com o polegar da mão a ser testada, e então toco a maçã com o indicador da outra mão, a área adquire um pouco de firmeza —a mesma de uma carne ponto menos. Juntando indicador com o dedo do meio, a firmeza equivale à carne ao ponto. Indicador com anelar, ponto mais. E indicador com o dedo mindinho, uma carne bem passada.Eu não costumo falar em tempo para acertar o ponto, porque em cada churrasqueira, em cada ambiente, em cada região do país a gente vai ter tempos diferentes para dar o ponto na carne. Tudo influencia na temperatura que a gente vai encontrar.Quando a gente fala em ponto, está falando da temperatura interna da carne, ou seja, se uma carne tem entre 47ºC e 52ºC, a gente tem um ponto malpassado. Uma carne entre 53ºC e 57ºC, uma carne ponto menos. De 58ºC a 62ºC, ao ponto. Uma carne de 63ºC até 67ºC, a gente tem uma carne ponto mais. E, acima de 68ºC, uma carne bem passada. Mais Não posso falar que bastam cinco minutos na churrasqueira de cada lado para chegar no ponto mais. Se você está no Rio Grande do Sul, além de ter a temperatura da brasa —que é quente—, tem também a do ambiente, que é gelado. Então, vai demorar mais tempo.Já se você estiver em Recife, no sol de 40ºC, a carne vai chegar ao ponto muito mais rápido. Por isso, vou sempre tocando-a para conseguir descobrir o ponto que eu quero.O ponto que eu particularmente indico para carnes macias é o ponto menos. Na carne malpassada, a gente tem muito pouca cocção nas fibras.No ponto menos, a gente já começa a ter o desprendimento da carne, tem pico de suculência, isso porque boa parte da água das fibras da carne já quebrou e 1) dá para sentir melhor essa suculência do que em uma carne malpassada, e 2) ela não se perdeu, não evaporou, como numa carne ao ponto.É este o ponto que eu indico para carnes macias como ancho, chorizo, picanha, prime rib etc. Não à toa, esse ponto é conhecido hoje entre os meus seguidores como "ponto do Netão".Bom churrasco a todos e que Nossa Senhora do Ponto nos Abençoe. | comida |
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] | Os desafios atuais da crítica gastronômica são os mesmos da crítica de arte em geral, e do próprio jornalismo na era da internet.A disseminação de blogueiros palpiteiros e de plataformas colaborativas (inundadas por quadrilhas que vendem avaliações positivas) já foi festejada como o fim da "ditadura do crítico".Era a celebração da mediocridade e do obscurantismo, da morte dos especialistas. A opinião do vizinho, somada à do tiozinho anônimo, sobre cinema, livros, restaurantes, passaram a ser a lei. Enfim, a democracia!Democracia serve para escolher governantes, mas a opinião da maioria em relação às artes pouco quer dizer. Uma pesquisa de opinião, ou a somatória de votos em um aplicativo, no máximo atesta a preferência de um universo de pessoas, mas não uma avaliação técnica e abalizada sobre nada.Para isto servem especialistas: críticos que dedicam seu tempo a estudar uma área, que sacrificam seu sono para assistir a vários filmes madrugada adentro, ou seu fígado ao almoçar duas vezes seguidas para entregar uma avaliação precisa aos leitores.Acho ótimo a internet abrir espaço para amadores darem pitacos sobre o que gostam. O que pode parecer espantoso é haver tanta gente que os tome como autoridades, e os siga credulamente. Mas isto sempre foi assim. Mesmo antes das fake news atuais.A imprensa de prestígio sempre foi minoritária. Os tabloides sensacionalistas e mentirosos sempre tiveram muito mais leitores (menos em países como Brasil, onde a população iletrada e pobre não consumia jornais).Blogueiros festivos trocam elogios por dinheiro ou comida. Um blogueiro mais ácido está apenas achacando restaurantes (aos amigos, elogios; aos que não aceitam sua extorsão, calúnias). E atraem cliques.Como jornalista, não fico em pânico com a situação, que não é nova: em Londres ou Nova York, jornais sensacionalistas sempre foram maioria; e, se uma crítica do New York Times é influente, uma fofoca no tabloide New York Post sempre infernizou donos de restaurante.Agora, no universo da internet a situação se reproduz. Com as exceções de praxe: a "imprensa alternativa" (jornais nanicos, fanzines) sempre foi um bafejo de independência e olhar crítico, como hoje fazem alguns sites e blogs. Alguns.O que preocupa é como os grandes veículos vão se portar. Já erraram no início, ao disponibilizar seu conteúdo digital gratuitamente: ler a Folha ou Le Monde era o mesmo que ler fake news de um palpiteiro —bastava um clique.A situação está mudando: os veículos agora cobram por seu conteúdo, e os leitores estão aderindo a pagar para ter informação profissional e mais confiável (inclusive críticas abalizadas). Mesmo que este contingente de leitores seja minoritário, como sempre foi. Mais No entanto, algo preocupa. Na crítica gastronômica, uma diferença do palpiteiro para o especialista é que o primeiro vai uma vez ao restaurante e já se julga autorizado a fazer uma "análise" definitiva do lugar, dar cotações a partir de uma única impressão. Como se ouvisse uma única faixa e julgasse um álbum musical inteiro.Já o crítico vai ao mesmo restaurante duas, três ou mais vezes, avalia seu funcionamento em dias e horas diferentes, prova o máximo de pratos do menu —escorado em anos de estudo e trabalho.Isso toma tempo, e custa dinheiro. Para um jornalista se dedicar e fazer um trabalho que diferencia seu veículo do ramerrão dos tabloides (impressos ou digitais), ele precisa ser pago (para ter este tempo dedicado), e precisa ser financiado (ter suas despesas bancadas pelo veículo).Hoje vemos jornais e revistas que crescem em público digital, mas decrescem na receita publicitária, cortando gastos e despesas. Blogueiros (e instagramers, tiktokers...) continuarão a brotar, alguns se divertindo com seu hobby, outros lucrando com sua desonestidade enquanto seduzem os crédulos. Não é o problema.Mas, se a imprensa cortar despesas, asfixiar as condições materiais para seus especialistas, isto, sim, pode ser uma sentença de morte para a crítica minuciosa, verdadeira e confiável. | comida |
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] | Já ouviu falar da Ana Carolina Soares e do José Luiz Soares? Você pode não ligar os nomes às pessoas, mas o casal à frente do perfil do Instagram dopaoaocaviar acumula 534 mil seguidores, que não perdem um post sobre as receitas que eles preparam em casa ou sobre os restaurantes e hotéis que visitam.E Ian Oliver, sabe quem é? Formado em Letras, professor de cursinho pré-vestibular e aluno da escola de cozinha Le Cordon Bleu São Paulo, ele é o quase anônimo por trás do perfil ocritico.antigourmet, com 49.800 seguidores.Tem também o Julio Bernardo, do botecodojb, cujo perfil soma 80.700 seguidores e se tornou uma pedra no sapato de muitos chefs e donos de restaurantes paulistanos.Essa turma, ao lado de outros perfis influentes, como teddys_favorites (471 mil seguidores), gordoprofissional (226 mil), gaspaindica (211 mil) e boccanervosa (56 mil), é a nova cara de uma profissão que se transformou da água para o vinho nos últimos anos: o crítico gastronômico.Eles também passam a vida comendo em restaurantes e relatando suas experiências, o que influencia o público que busca referências na hora de decidir onde almoçar ou jantar. Como os decanos da profissão, podem conquistar desafetos com seus comentários nem sempre simpáticos –embora alguns deles se limitem a elogiar o que gostam, sem jamais apontar problemas publicamente.Mas as semelhanças param por aí.Com mais liberdade para estabelecer os próprios critérios, eles mantêm relações bem próximas com seu público, o que no jargão das mídias sociais se convencionou chamar de engajamento. Mas não se trata só de acumular curtidas e comentários.Quando o post é positivo, os donos dos estabelecimentos não demoram a registrar salões mais cheios e pratos alçados à condição de best-sellers –uma relação de causa e efeito que, não faz muito tempo, era exclusividade das críticas publicadas em veículos de comunicação tradicionais.A relação entre os chefs de cozinha e os novos críticos é de amor e ódio. "As redes sociais me ajudaram muito, cheguei a um lugar que nunca imaginei estar de forma tão rápida. Ao mesmo tempo, lido com gente que fala o que quer, como quer", diz Luiz Filipe, chef do restaurante Evvai."Críticas positivas massageiam o ego, mas não deixo que as negativas me tirem o sono. Esses críticos formados por eles mesmos têm grande alcance, mas não dou bola", retruca Renato Carioni, sócio do restaurante Così."Antigamente, a gente só tinha o trabalho analisado pelo Luiz Américo Camargo [ex-crítico do jornal O Estado de São Paulo], pelo Josimar Melo [crítico da Folha], pelo Arnaldo Lorençato [crítico da Veja São Paulo]. Éramos felizes e não sabíamos. As críticas eram construtivas, nos ajudavam a melhorar. Hoje tem gente causando tumulto no Instagram porque está esperando na fila", chia a chef Janaína Rueda, sócia do restaurante A Casa do Porco.Poucos influenciadores acumulam tantas inimizades –e processos judiciais– quanto Julio Bernardo. Chef do Tujuína, Ivan Ralston conta que os posts do @botecodojb passaram dos elogios às críticas contundentes sem que ele entendesse por quê."O JB começou a me difamar, a me considerar o pior do Brasil, sem jamais voltar ao restaurante. É um desserviço à gastronomia e tem quem acredite no cara."Ciente da fama que carrega, Bernardo admite que já perdeu a conta dos lugares onde virou persona non grata. Mas avisa: não se considera crítico, e, sim, cronista. "Só acabei conhecido dessa forma porque meu pensamento sempre foi crítico, mas não vou ser fiscal de adjetivo. Me chamem como quiserem", diz, com a acidez que já virou a identidade de seus textos.Profissionais da velha guarda também enxergam essa nova concorrência com ressalvas. Para a crítica Ailin Aleixo, que iniciou a carreira em revistas, migrou para a internet com o blog Gastrolândia e hoje está na TV, como jurada do reality show Top Chef Brasil, na Record, a maior parte dos influenciadores escreve sobre o assunto para comer de graça."Nem todo mundo que come está apto para falar sobre comida. Há uma grande diferença entre ser crítico e dar opinião." Mais Com 14 anos de experiência como crítico do extinto Guia 4Rodas, que se notabilizou pelos critérios rígidos na avaliação de restaurantes em todo o país, o jornalista Ricardo Castanho lembra que o anonimato dos avaliadores era inegociável."Se fôssemos conhecidos, daríamos chance para o restaurante preparar algo acima da média. O anonimato é fundamental para avaliar um restaurante no seu normal de atendimento e qualidade de comida", defende.Na era das câmeras dos celulares sempre em punho, o anonimato virou utopia. Ian Oliver não exibe foto nem nome no perfil @ocritico.antigourmet. Ainda assim, foi desmascarado –e seus textos ácidos, que geralmente terminam em notas de zero a dez, não ajudam a torná-lo popular entre chefs e donos de restaurantes."Já cancelaram minha reserva porque descobriram quem eu era, impressionante o nível de insegurança de alguns chefs."O fato é que, apesar dos riscos, quem quiser ser relevante no setor da restauração não pode mais ignorar os influenciadores digitais. Eles têm poder de encher salões, mas também de fazer estragos.Sócia da agência Documennta, que gerencia as redes sociais de vários restaurantes, entre eles A Casa do Porco, Maria Vargas conta que estar no ranking 50 Best, como o 17º melhor do mundo, não exime a casa dos Rueda da maledicência online."Críticas corriqueiras a gente responde educadamente, tenta entender o que aconteceu. Mas um post agressivo pode gerar uma crise enorme, porque todo mundo vai compartilhando e logo cai no WhatsApp. Passamos o tempo todo gerenciando crises de clientes, tudo em tempo real." Mais Até mesmo os prêmios gastronômicos tradicionais, como as cobiçadas estrelas conferidas pelo Guia Michelin e o ranking internacional 50 Best, já parecem ter menos alcance que os influenciadores.Essa é a opinião de Rosa Moraes, atual presidente da academia do World 50 Best para o Brasil."Muita gente ainda faz turismo gastronômico pautada pelo Michelin e pelo 50 Best, e a mídia tradicional ainda é muito relevante para uma fatia do público, especialmente os mais velhos. Mas acho que as redes sociais têm mesmo mais alcance. Tem restaurante que já dispensou o profissional de relações públicas e só mantém um perfil bem feito no Instagram."Apesar da atenção que as redes sociais demandam, a empresária Deni Bloch, responsável pelas mídias sociais de diversos restaurantes, entre eles o Tujuína, acha positivo que a crítica esteja mais pulverizada."Os influenciadores são a nova mídia, não tem jeito. E tudo bem que o público goste desses caras. Podem não ser críticos, e daí?" | comida |
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] | Ninguém questiona mais que o estrogonofe já há tempos desceu do Olimpo gastronômico e entrou no honroso rol de PFs favoritos dos brasileiros. Ainda mais depois da pandemia, quando o prato fez bonito ao viajar bem no delivery de vários restaurantes que, se ainda não o ofereciam no cardápio, rapidamente o incorporaram às receitas disponíveis.Acordado, portanto, que comer carne com molho, arroz e batatinhas não é mais coisa chique, mas, sim, de gente como a gente. Mas e a polêmica do ketchup, será que já se chegou a um consenso? Afinal, o condimento tem ou não tem autorização para entrar na panela?"Eu gosto de ketchup, inclusive adoro comer miojo com ketchup", confessa o chef Erick Jacquin, do restaurante Président e jurado do programa MasterChef. O ingrediente faz parte de sua receita de estrogonofe."Boto e falo porque acho que as pessoas têm direito de saber o que comem. Os americanos encontraram no ketchup o lado defumado que a páprica oferecia. A páprica é uma especiaria que levanta o sabor dos pratos, é um tempero muito legal", comenta.Para ele, a popularização do estrogonofe —receita considerada sofisticada nos anos 1970 —se deu depois que as pessoas aprenderam a fazer em casa. "Virou prato de menu executivo", lembra.E, se para ele o ketchup não é um vilão, será que há algum pecado possível na execução de um estrogonofe, na visão do chef Jacquin? "Não pode deixar virar uma sopa", sentencia."O molho não é nem ralo, nem grosso, ele tem a consistência certa. Você tem que poder passar um pão no prato depois de terminar. O molho deve estar em equilíbrio com a proteína, sem excesso de molho", ensina.O estrogonofe de Jacquin começa com o creme de leite sozinho na frigideira. Depois, o chef reserva, entra com cogumelos, sal, pimenta e cebola na mesma panela, para então voltar com o creme e acrescentar a carne só depois."Filé mignon, se deixa muito tempo, vira borracha, e carne cortada em cubinho é picadinho", finaliza.Ivan Ralston, ex-Tuju, atual Tujuína, acrescentou o estrogonofe ao menu do delivery que o restaurante ofereceu ao longo de boa parte da quarentena. Ao lado da rabada, macarronada, picadinho e peixe, estava lá a receita de estrogone do chef Ralston —e, adivinhe, com ketchup na composição."É um prato bom para o delivery, porque comida ensopada é menos prejudicada, já que, tendo um molho envolvendo, ela segura melhor", explica. "No meu tem ketchup, creme de leite, conhaque, filé mignon, molho inglês. Sirvo com batata palha e arroz basmati, que acho superaromático e dá um ‘tchanzinho’." Mais "As receitas de estrogonofe diferem bastante quando você começa a pesquisar. Quando aprendi na faculdade, não tinha ketchup, mas era com mostarda em grão e cebola julienne, completamente diferente do que eu faço e gosto", lembra a pesquisadora de gastronomia Juliana Ventura."Eu ponho ketchup. Tempero a carne com sal e pimenta, e polvilho farinha de trigo nela, porque isso deixa qualquer picadinho mais cremoso", conta Juliana, que também utiliza conhaque para flambar sua receita.Junto com outros três sócios, o empresário Fábio Prado comprou a receita de estrogonofe do seu restaurante favorito na Rússia, e atualmente a reproduz no Stroganov, casa que abriu com os amigos no Itaim."Nosso grande diferencial é que não vai nem creme de leite, nem ketchup. Fazemos o nosso próprio creme, mais leve, é um segredo. Na carne, a gente faz um glacê que demora uns dois ou três dias para ficar pronto", compartilha Prado.O empresário acredita que sua receita é a que mais se aproxima de uma mítica receita original do prato, supostamente inventada por uma família russa."A mãe do meu sócio é croata, e ela tinha uma receita que era bem parecida. Só que aqui a gente teve que adaptar, porque lá eles não comem com arroz, nem batata palha, mas, sim, batata cozida ou salteada."Além do clássico com carne, o Stroganov serve também versões feitas à base de frango, camarão, cogumelos e a chamada fit, com leite de amêndoas e batata doce. | comida |
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] | Um passeio por Pelotas, na região sul do Rio Grande do Sul, é uma experiência que agrada além do ímpeto cultural dos turistas —é pelo estômago que a cidade, a pouco mais de 260 km de Porto Alegre, conquista os viajantes.Considerada a capital nacional do doce, e reconhecida pelo IPHAN (Instituto do Patrimônio Histórico e Artístico Nacional) de Brasília como Patrimônio Imaterial do Brasil desde 2018, Pelotas oferece um vasto circuito aos fãs dos tradicionais doces finos, vendidos ali em confeitarias, pequenas fábricas e até mesmo em uma rua especializada no centro da cidade.Composta por sete bancas exclusivas para a venda do produto, produzido artesanalmente pelas doceiras locais, a Rua do Doce é parada obrigatória para "formiguinhas" de plantão.Pelotas produz doces com indicação geográfica, ou seja, aqueles que remetem à região em que foram produzidos, seguindo receitas, tradições e costumes. Conhecidos como "doces de bandeja", os doces finos eram um elemento de sociabilidade e peça importante no modelo de refinamento das famílias ricas de Pelotas.Baseados no ovo como ingrediente principal, os docinhos eram servidos em jantares, casamentos e batizados da alta sociedade durante os séculos 18 e 19, e até hoje são encontrados em reuniões familiares, festas de aniversário e outras festividades.Entre eles, os mais famosos são bem-casado, camafeu, beijinho de coco, ninho, papo de anjo, pastéis de santa clara, queijadinha, olho de sogra e os quindins.Vistosos, além de saborosos, os doces de Pelotas têm origem portuguesa e africana relacionada aos escravos que, na época, foram enviados à cidade para trabalhar durante o período das Charqueadas, ligada ao charque (carne bovina seca e salgada), que movia a economia da cidade."O quindim, por exemplo, é chamado de brisas do lis em Portugal. Um doce típico da cidade de Leiria, confeccionado com três ingredientes base: ovos, açúcar e amêndoas", conta o empresário David Lubke, de 31 anos, da Imperatriz Doces Finos. "Quando os portugueses chegaram ao Brasil, não encontraram a disponibilidade de amêndoas e tiveram que substituir por coco-ralado.’’Segundo Lubke, a substituição foi ideia de um dos escravos que trabalhavam na cozinha, e que batizou a criação como "quindim". ‘’É um doce com uma influência africana. Aqui no Brasil, o quindim também é visto muito em rituais de umbanda, como oferendas aos orixás."O camafeu, por sua vez, tem base de nozes, leite condensado e manteiga com cobertura de fondant. Segundo o empresário David Jeske, a palavra "camafeu" vem do latim "cammaeus", e significa pedra esculpida."O doce foi inspirado em uma joia de pedra semipreciosa em tom cinza. O imperador francês Napoleão Bonaparte era apaixonado pelos camafeus, e chegou a fundar em Paris uma escola para ensinar a arte de produção de camafeus para estudantes interessados’’, ensina. Mais Mesmo diante das dificuldades impostas pela pandemia do novo coronavírus, muitas doceiras de Pelotas conseguiram se manter produzindo os doces em suas próprias residências.Foi assim com a confeiteira Ana Beatriz Barreto, de 64 anos, 20 anos deles de prática na cozinha. Seu ‘’carro-chefe’’ é o pastel de santa clara, doce com origem no convento homônimo de Coimbra, em Portugal.‘’Naquela época, as claras dos ovos eram usadas para engomar tecidos e as freiras do convento acabavam por inventar receitas usando as gemas dos ovos, e criaram o pastel de santa clara’’, explica.Feito de uma massa muito fina, parecida com papel de seda e dobrada em forma de um envelope com duas pontas que se unem, o doce é, por fim, recheado com ovos moles. Enquanto a técnica dos doces finos é atribuída aos filhos de charqueadores que viajavam pela Europa e traziam na bagagem receitas novas e caras, servidas apenas em festas de alta classe, os doces artesanais geralmente são produzidos com frutas da época.Os mais comuns têm como base o pêssego, a banana, o morango, o figo e a abóbora. Bons exemplos são as compotas, o schmier (geleia), os doces cristalizados e aqueles em passas. | comida |
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] | Este ano, o Dia Mundial do Macarrão, comemorado neste 25 de outubro, tem gosto diferente. A começar por ter sido este um dos alimentos mais consumidos na pandemia —segundo a Associação Brasileira das Indústrias de Biscoitos, Massas Alimentícias e Pães & Bolos Industrializados (Abimapi), o consumo per capita, em 2020, chegou a 6,4 quilos, contra os 6,1 quilos de 2019.Trocando em miúdos, cada brasileiro comeu três pratos a mais de massa ao longo do ano.Só que não entram nas contas da entidade todo o macarrão que passou a ser feito em casa, à moda antiga, na bancada enfarinhada. Para se ter uma ideia, o e-commerce Americanas.com mais que quadruplicou as vendas de produtos específicos para a produção de massas caseiras em 2020.A lista engloba de cortadores do tipo carretel, a R$ 9,32, a máquinas manuais para cilindrar e cortar a massa, com preços que vão de R$ 97,99 a R$ 1.004,39.Cintia Amaral, 38, é uma das "neomasseiras" da pandemia. Durante a quarentena, ela se dedicou mais à cozinha e passou a assar pães em casa, mas achava que fazer macarrão era um passo complicado demais.Bastou uma única aula na escola Accademia Gastronomica, no entanto, para que perdesse o medo. "É bem mais fácil do que eu pensava, parece mágica!", diz.Sem equipamentos adequados em casa, ela abriu a primeira massa usando uma garrafa de vinho, mas logo se rendeu à máquina manual, capaz de cilindrar e cortar os fios. Pagou R$ 185 pelo equipamento.Três cursos depois, Cintia já faz até massas recheadas. Mas a preferida dos filhos, os gêmeos Romeu e Raul, de cinco anos, é o espaguete com molho de tomate.Durante a pandemia, gente como Cintia encheu as salas de aula —presenciais e virtuais– das escolas de culinária de São Paulo.O megaempório Eataly promoveu lives gratuitas que chegaram a registrar 1.500 acessos cada uma. Chef executivo da casa e professor, José Barattino observou um boom de entusiastas da cozinha, que passaram a encarar o macarrão caseiro como hobby."Muita gente espera encontrar aquele lado chato da cozinha, de muita técnica, temperaturas precisas e equipamentos caros, mas adoro derrubar esses mitos. De cara, ensino a medir um punhado de farinha de trigo e jogar na balança. A partir daí, ninguém mais precisa pesar a farinha, porque já sabe quanto pesa o próprio punhado", explica. Mais A possibilidade de se divertir fazendo macarrão é também o mote das aulas do chef Carlos Siffert, professor da escola WK Cozinha. "Nosso viés é trabalhar como uma brincadeira séria. Todo paulistano tem uma relação íntima com as massas, e não há quem não goste de aprender a fazer. É uma atividade muito lúdica."Pode ser simples, ele diz, mas ter um professor experiente ajuda a entender pequenos truques que fazem diferença. Por tratar-se de uma massa seca, por exemplo, muita gente acha que a receita deu errado e cai na tentação de adicionar mais água e ovo, o que inviabiliza cortá-la depois.A melhor parte, ele emenda, é que se aprende o básico em muito pouco tempo —de uma aula de quatro horas de duração, garante, o aluno sai capaz de fazer macarrão. As massas de fio, como espaguete, são as mais indicadas para quem está começando.Há quem prefira se aprofundar no aprendizado e passe anos se aprimorando. Moradora de Caxias do Sul (RS), Manu Oltramari fez cursos de gastronomia e vinhos em vários países antes de lançar o curso online Mestre em Massas e Molhos, em 2018.As mais de 50 aulas ministradas por ela, com cerca de dez minutos de duração cada uma, mergulham no receituário italiano clássico e podem ser assistidas livremente ao longo de dois anos. Há conteúdo sobre harmonização com vinhos, e outro com dicas para profissionalizar a produção e vendê-la por delivery.Na pandemia, o negócio deslanchou. "Em meados de 2020, entraram mais de 1.000 novos alunos por mês", contabiliza Manu, que diz já ter ensinado a técnica a mais de 14 mil pessoas desde a fundação do curso.A quem pensa que ter uma bancada tamanho GG é fundamental, a professora avisa que dá, sim, para fazer massa em cozinhas compactas. "Conforme você adquire prática, não precisa enfarinhar tanto a superfície e consegue manipular a massa em uma tábua de 50 x 40 cm." Mais Por outro lado, Manu é rígida com a seleção de receitas. "Não ensino a fazer rondele e outras massas recheadas de queijo e presunto, que só existem aqui no Brasil. Me limito ao receituário clássico italiano."Além das massas, ela mostra como preparar molhos, como o ragu à bolonhesa —mas do jeito italiano. "Na Itália, usa-se leite, um segredinho que poucos brasileiros conhecem", entrega.Já o curso comandado pela chef Carla Pernambuco foca em receitas autorais que fazem sucesso no restaurante Carlota, como o fusilli com camarão à provençal e o nhoque de batata com ervas. Com direito a entrada, sobremesa e vinho, a aula mais parece um jantar entre amigos.Os alunos aprendem a fazer as massas do zero, usando equipamentos domésticos, e também têm a chance de observar a extrusora que a chef acaba de comprar. "Com ela, faço os mais diferentes formatos", propagandeia.Quem nunca se aventurou a produzir massa caseira pode se inspirar em um perfil do Instagram que tem feito sucesso por aqui. O @pastagrannies exibe fotos e vídeos de "mammas" e "nonas" italianas, exímias masseiras, que modelam fios, capeletes e raviólis com uma destreza de fazer inveja. Depois de assisti-las, é difícil resistir a virar "neomasseiro" também.Onde aprenderAccademia Gastronomica Como é: Duas aulas práticas presenciais a cargo do chef Leonardo Tavares, que incluem brinde com limoncello artesanal, vinho (ou cerveja) e café espresso.Onde: R. Inhambu, 1126, Moema.Quanto: R$ 680.Quando: 6 e 7 de dezembro.www.agastronomica.com.brCarlota é Massa!Como é: A chef Carla Pernambuco ensina o preparo de focaccia, mais três massas e seis molhos. A aula prática inclui vinho e sobremesa.Onde: Rua Sergipe, 753, Higienópolis.Quanto: R$ 400.Quando: 23 de novembro.www.instagram.com/carlapernambucocarlotaMestre em Massas e MolhosComo é: Cerca de 50 vídeos curtos, que o aluno pode assistir como quiser, com direito a suporte da professora Manu Oltramari durante dois anos.Quanto: R$ 297.www.manuoltramari.com.br | comida |
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] | Mais do que uma forma de produzir alimentos, a agroecologia é um modo de organizar a sociedade e sua economia.Em torno dela vem se articulando uma sofisticada cadeia, de agricultores a agentes de crédito, de redes de comercialização e certificação a cursos e técnicos que qualificam essa prática, apoiados por recursos filantrópicos de institutos e fundações.Agroecologia busca uma relação mais respeitosa com a natureza: diversifica cultivos, integra saberes ancestrais e conhecimentos científicos, não despeja produtos químicos na terra —gerando alimentos saudáveis e renda estável para quem os produz, entre outros benefícios.As monoculturas e a concentração de vastos territórios nas mãos de poucos causam, há séculos, efeitos devastadores. Além das doenças, que ciclicamente dizimam plantações, estudo do WWF afirma que, só nos últimos 50 anos, 60% de todos os mamíferos, pássaros, peixes e répteis foram extintos.Os impactos sociais do modelo hegemônico na agricultura brasileira, acentuados pelo desgoverno atual, são igualmente destrutivos. Basta rever o que aconteceu com as cidades brasileiras. No Censo do IBGE de 1950, cerca de dois terços das pessoas (64%) viviam no meio rural. Já no último Censo, de 2010, a população urbana no Brasil chegou a 84% —e a rural caiu para meros 16%. O resultado se traduz em desigualdades assustadoras, favelas ladeadas por mansões, violência, escassez de água e consumo excessivo de comida industrializada mais barata, mas de baixo valor nutricional.Como diz uma liderança agrícola em Serra Grande, "a gente era rica e não sabia", referindo-se ao tipo de progresso que predomina na região, apesar de existirem na área várias iniciativas inovadoras.Agroecologia se realiza a partir de movimentos sociais de base, articulados a governos, empresas e organizações da sociedade civil, que promovem juntos, não sem conflitos, o que se convencionou chamar de desenvolvimento sustentável.Há certa controvérsia sobre como medir a proporção de alimentos produzida hoje pela agricultura familiar — não necessariamente agroecológica, nem orgânica, embora seja um bom começo.Estudos baseados no Censo Agro 2017 do IBGE apontam que 70% do que é ingerido no país provém desse tipo de lavoura. Outras pesquisas, digamos, menos reconhecidas, indicam que isso seria bem menor, na faixa dos 25%, considerando o valor dos produtos vendidos.A guerra de narrativas é evidente também neste setor —e há de se considerar os recursos que o agronegócio investe em comunicação e marketing, diante da capacidade que agricultores agroecológicos dispõem para isso.Há experiências modelares no país: mulheres e jovens se empoderam nas roças do Nordeste, famílias cultivam alimentos saudáveis e heranças culturais no Sul, povos tradicionais vendem produtos da Amazônia e a preservam, fazendas de cana paulistas implementam novas formas de produção.O caminho para a reorganização da agricultura em bases agroecológicas é complexo, longo e envolve a atuação do Estado, suas políticas públicas e uma revisão profunda do que move os negócios —ESG é apenas o início.Na esfera individual, comprar na feira livre em vez do supermercado (e cobrar um produto orgânico), ou pedir no restaurante suco agroecológico, não refrigerante, além de evitar o consumo de ultraprocessados, constrói uma sociedade mais inclusiva, saudável e sustentável.A alternativa a isso nós já estamos vivenciando. | comida |
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] | O decreto recente que flexibiliza regras sobre agrotóxicos é visto como mais um retrocesso nas políticas ambientais e de saúde. Para organizações que lutam pela redução do uso, o que ocorre em outros países, o Brasil está na contramão do mundo.Do outro lado, indústria, agronegócio e governo veem as alterações como necessárias para desburocratizar o registro de novos defensivos à medida que a agricultura avança.O Brasil é o terceiro país que mais usa agrotóxicos em números absolutos, depois de China e EUA, segundo dados da FAO, agência da ONU para alimentação e agricultura.Com a terceira maior área agropecuária, ocupa a 27ª posição no uso por área plantada, entre 155 nações –5,94 kg por hectare, segundo o ranking da FAO de 2019.Pesquisadores contestam o cálculo e dizem que grande parte da área é destinada a pastos, não a alimentos, o que faria o país subir no ranking.Foram vendidas no Brasil 620 mil toneladas de agrotóxicos em 2019, informa o último boletim do Ibama. Do total, 38,3% são ‘‘altamente’’ ou ‘‘muito perigosos’’, e 59,3%, ‘‘perigosos’’. O restante, 2,4%, ‘‘pouco perigosos’’.O decreto de 7 de outubro (10.833/2021) faz mudanças semelhantes às que já propunha o projeto de lei 6.299/2002, parado no Congresso, conhecido por "pacote de veneno" e alvo de 320 entidades unidas na Campanha Permanente contra os Agrotóxicos e pela Vida.Mas o governo Bolsonaro mudou a lei por decreto. Entre os pontos comuns ao decreto e ao projeto de lei estão novos prazos para acelerar a aprovação de agrotóxicos, maior participação do Ministério da Agricultura nas liberações de produtos e criação de "limites seguros" para que substâncias antes proibidas sejam aprovadas.A flexibilização do registro é um dos pontos preocupantes, apontam Abrasco (Associação Brasileira de Saúde Coletiva), Fiocruz (Fundação Oswaldo Cruz), Greenpeace e Inca (Instituto Nacional de Câncer)."Substâncias que causam câncer, mutação genética e má formação fetal não eram aprovadas no país sob qualquer hipótese, como prevê a lei criada em 1989. O decreto muda isso, ao dizer que, se for possível determinar doses seguras, podem ser registradas. Na prática, acabou a proibição", diz a médica Karen Friedrich, da Fiocruz e da Abrasco. Mais Na visão do governo, a mudança aumentará a concorrência, com produtos mais modernos, menos tóxicos e de menor custo para produtores.O decreto também se alinha a propostas do setor privado que o Ministério da Economia já encaminhara à pasta do Meio Ambiente para análise. Uma delas pede redução de exigências para fabricar agrotóxicos voltados à exportação e assim tornar o Brasil um polo exportador.Ao explicar o decreto, o Ministério da Agricultura destaca que o registro de agrotóxicos destinados exclusivamente à exportação foi simplificado. ‘‘Agora, não será mais necessário que esses produtos estejam registrados para uso no Brasil. Isso aumentará a atratividade de investimentos em plantas industriais de produção para exportação".Segundo a Abrasco, a mudança abre espaço para fabricar agrotóxicos no país sem a avaliação dos seus impactos para a saúde e o ambiente. "O país tem potencial para exportar biodefensivos, um mercado crescente, e não agrotóxicos", diz a engenheira química Sonia Corina Hess, pesquisadora da Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina. "O governo deveria banir o que já foi banido em outros países, em vez de aceitar ser a lixeira do mundo", diz.Sobre essa alternativa dos biodefensivos, a pasta da Agricultura afirma ter ampliado as equipes que analisam produtos de base biológica parar acelerar suas aprovações, mais rápidas que as de agrotóxicos. Para o órgão, a redução do uso de químicos dependerá da velocidade de pesquisas que identifiquem agentes naturais de controle de pragas.Segundo a CropLife Brasil, que representa a indústria do setor, defensivos químicos são fundamentais para assegurar a competitividade do agronegócio. ‘‘Tiveram papel crucial no aumento de 360% da produção de grãos, com crescimento de apenas 50% de área plantada, observados no Brasil nos últimos 30 anos".A mudança, para a CropLife, dará mais transparência e segurança jurídica ao processo. ‘‘Não é razoável aguardar dez anos para a aprovação de um novo pesticida. No cenário atual, quando um defensivo é autorizado para ser utilizado pelo produtor brasileiro, já existem outros mais modernos sendo usados em outros países. Um prejuízo para as lavouras, os produtores, a economia e o consumidor. É isso que a nova lei deve evitar".Marcelo Morandi, chefe da Embrapa (Empresa de Pesquisa Agropecuária) Meio Ambiente, diz que os químicos usados hoje são mais eficientes e permitem a redução de doses."Apesar do avanço do setor de biodefensivos, ainda não há produtos biológicos que atuam contra ervas daninhas. Esse é um desafio não só no Brasil, mas no mundo".De janeiro de 2019 a setembro deste ano, 1.215 agrotóxicos foram liberados no país, segundo dados publicados no Diário da União e compilados por Hess. O ritmo de aprovação chama a atenção. De 2005 a 2015, eram cerca de 140 por ano. Só neste ano foram 345.Dos produtos aprovados e usados no Brasil, 30% têm substâncias ativas já proibidas em países europeus. Apoiadas em pesquisas, Abrasco, Fiocruz e Inca consideram não haver limite seguro para uso de agrotóxicos."Um problema é que apenas as intoxicações agudas por agrotóxicos têm visibilidade e recebem atenção. O adoecimento crônico não é monitorado", afirma a médica Lia Giraldo, pesquisadora da Fiocruz e da Abrasco. Outro ponto é a mistura de agrotóxicos. Testes em animais avaliam um tipo de químico por vez e não consideram dados clínicos nem epidemiológicos.O "Dossiê Abrasco: um alerta sobre os impactos dos agrotóxicos na saúde" lista os principais problemas relacionados ao uso, que vão de câncer, mutação genética e malformações fetais a alterações hormonais e reprodutivas."Agrotóxicos muito usados no Brasil, como atrazina, acefato e paraquate, foram proibidos há anos na União Europeia por serem neurotóxicos, provocando Parkinson e distúrbios respiratórios graves, além do potencial carcinogênico", explica a médica.O acefato e a atrazina são os dois componentes de agrotóxicos mais vendidos aqui. O primeiro já é banido em 30 países. Foi ligado a casos de câncer e ação neurotóxica, o que levou a Anvisa a adotar novas regras para uso em 2013, proibindo sua aplicação manual.Segundo a Anvisa, o uso da atrazina é monitorado desde 2001 no Programa de Análise de Resíduos de Agrotóxicos em Alimentos. O controle, suspenso na pandemia, deve ser retomado em 2022.O paraquete, herbicida usado em culturas de algodão, milho e soja, foi vetado em 2017, mas teve o prazo para uso de estoques estendido até julho deste ano. Ligado à incidência de Parkinson entre agricultores, foi proibido em 37 países, informa a Pestice Action Network, organização mundial de ação contra agrotóxicos.A Anvisa informa ter reavaliado, nos últimos dez anos, 13 ingredientes ativos de agrotóxicos, e proibido 8. "Diversas restrições foram estabelecidas com o objetivo de mitigar os riscos identificados."A análise para liberação de agrotóxicos é dividida entre Ministério da Agricultura (avalia a eficácia), Anvisa (avalia impactos na saúde) e Ibama (avalia riscos ambientais).Pelo PL 6.299/2002, a decisão final passa a ser da pasta da Agricultura. Os demais órgãos perdem poder de veto. A Anvisa já se posicionou contra o projeto, que prevê ainda substituir o termo ‘‘agrotóxico’’ por ‘‘pesticida’’ e criar registro temporário para novos produtos não analisados no prazo de até dois anos. Essas mudanças não constam no decreto editado por Bolsonaro, mas podem vir com a aprovação do ‘‘pacote do veneno’’, temem entidades ligadas ao ambiente e à saúde.A agrônoma Marina Lacôrte, do Greenpeace, diz que mudar o termo para pesticida é mascarar a nocividade, e ‘‘pode dar a ideia equivocada de que é menos tóxico".O Greenpeace e as organizações que integram a campanha contra os agrotóxicos defendem uma Política Nacional de Redução de Agrotóxicos, por meio do projeto de lei 6.670, de 2016, também parado no Congresso.Em contraposição ao "pacote do veneno", esse projeto prega a transição para sistemas agroecológicos. "São práticas que precisam ganhar escala e atenção dos governos, com políticas públicas não voltadas somente ao modelo exportador de commodities. A indústria do setor precisa se reestruturar, e os insumos biológicos terem incentivos", diz Lacôrte.Agrotóxicos recebem incentivos fiscais do governo desde 1997. Levantamento da Abrasco de 2020 mostra que, em média, os estados deixam de arrecadar R$ 6 bilhões por ano, com acordos que permitem a desoneração de até 60% do ICMS nas vendas dos venenos.620 mil... ... toneladas de agrotóxicos foram vendidas no Brasil em 2019, segundo o último boletim disponível do Ibama38,3%... ...dos agrotóxicos vendidos são ‘altamente’ ou ‘muito perigosos’59,3%... . ..são classificados como ‘perigosos’ e 2,4%, ‘pouco perigosos’ | comida |
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] | Entre os 364 produtores do assentamento Santo Angelo, Ivo Bernardo da Silva está ilhado. Dono de um sítio em Mogi das Cruzes, cinturão verde que abastece a maior cidade da América Latina, São Paulo, ele diz ser o único que cultiva alimentos sem agrotóxicos.São 37 variedades, incluindo hortaliças e condimentos, que crescem em quatro mil metros quadrados cuidados por Silva, 67, e a namorada. Só dos vários tipos de alface, eles colhem 18 mil pés por ano."A gente cuida da natureza e ela devolve assim, com comida de qualidade", afirma.Recursos usados no cultivo vêm do próprio sítio: a água da chuva armazenada ou do poço artesiano irriga as plantas; o adubo é resultado da compostagem, feita ali mesmo.A rotina de trabalho é um meio de oferecer à população acesso a alimentos saudáveis, cultivados de forma sustentável, diz Silva. "Acredito nos pequenos, na agricultura familiar", afirma o produtor, que vende o que colhe diretamente aos consumidores.O modo adotado por Silva é um dos caminhos apontados pela ciência para garantir segurança alimentar num mundo que precisa passar por uma transição rápida de modelo."As mudanças climáticas estão ocorrendo. A grande agricultura de impacto ambiental muito forte precisa mudar. Todo mundo já entendeu isso, de consumidores a produtores", diz Gustavo Chianca, representante no Brasil da FAO (Organização das Nações Unidas para a Alimentação e Agricultura).O custo real desse impacto para a saúde do planeta e de seus habitantes quase não aparece nos preços finais dos alimentos. É o que mostra um projeto das universidades de Greifswald e Augsburg, na Alemanha, em conjunto com uma rede de supermercados.Ao calcularem custos ecológicos e sociais de vários alimentos, os pesquisadores constataram grande diferença entre os preços nas gôndolas e os valores reais."Os produtos de origem animal têm um desempenho particularmente ruim", dizem os cientistas. A carne moída, por exemplo, teria que custar o triplo se fossem consideradas emissões de gases de efeito estufa, mudanças no uso do solo e consumo de energia no processo de produção. Já os alimentos orgânicos de origem vegetal são os que têm preços mais "reais", por respeitarem mais o ambiente."Uma internalização desses custos resultaria na correção dos preços de mercado, e o comportamento de compra seria ajustado de acordo com a sustentabilidade", escreveu sobre os resultados a pesquisadora Amelie Michalke.Independentemente do tamanho da propriedade ou da cadeia produtiva, fatores urgentes precisam entrar em definitivo para a equação, alerta Leandro Giatti, pesquisador que integra a recém-criada Cátedra Josué de Castro de Sistemas Alimentares Saudáveis e Sustentáveis, da Faculdade de Saúde Pública da USP (Universidade de São Paulo)."A produção de alimentos é avaliada pela produtividade e o lucro. Não dá mais para fazer isso. É preciso fazer o balanço da disponibilidade de energia, e o custo que essa energia vai gerar em outras regiões. O mesmo vale para a água", diz Giatti.Com o padrão vigente, não seria possível oferecer alimentos a uma população crescente e cuidar do meio ambiente ao mesmo tempo, avalia Manuela Santos, pesquisadora da FGV (Fundação Getúlio Vargas). Mais "Esse modelo de cultivo em larga escala, de monocultura, altamente dependente de insumos de fora da propriedade, não é a resposta que precisamos", diz.Uma alternativa seria o incentivo a produções sustentáveis em pequena escala que, organizadas em cooperativas, conseguem abastecer grandes mercados, sugere Santos."As cadeias de abastecimento são longas, os pequenos produtores ficam à margem. Se não se organizam, se não têm capacidade de chegar ao consumidor final, fica mais difícil", afirma Santos, ressaltando que mais transparência nesse processo traria um grande impacto positivo.Pelos critérios definidos por lei, são produtores familiares os que têm até quatro módulos fiscais (medida de área que sofre variação conforme o município), usam mão de obra da família e têm renda vinculada ao estabelecimento.A agricultura familiar corresponde a 77% das propriedades rurais do país, mas ocupa 23% da área total de estabelecimentos contabilizados no último Censo Agropecuário. Ela produz parte considerável do que vai para a mesa brasileira, como leite, mandioca, abacaxi, alface, feijão."A agricultura familiar garante muitas vezes o alimento que é consumido no dia a dia da população, mas também está envolvida no agronegócio exportador. É ligada à diversidade de alimentos, tem a tendência de ser mais sustentável, mas é preciso aprofundar, também na agricultura familiar, o conceito de produzir e de preservar", argumenta Chianca. Essa é a missão de Veridiana Vieira, da Repoama, Rede de Produção Orgânica da Amazônia Mato-Grossense.Em sua tentativa de ampliar os agricultores adeptos dessa prática, ela encontra resistência. "A primeira coisa que ouvimos é que eles não vão conseguir produzir sem veneno. Nosso trabalho é mostrar que é possível, e mais vantajoso".O primeiro benefício, explica Veridiana Vieira, é a economia de insumos agrícolas. O grupo troca sementes, esterco e experiências. E faz compras coletivas, o que deixa tudo mais barato."São muitos benefícios, mas o principal é a preservação. Ao não usar agrotóxico, você melhora a qualidade da água, do solo, atrai mais polinizadores", acrescenta."Existem outras coisas que não dá pra contar em dinheiro, como o aumento do bem-estar, da saúde, a redução de alergias nas crianças", cita ela, resumindo experiências contadas por integrantes da rede. | comida |
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] | Um terço do PIB brasileiro está atrelado a setores com futuro duvidoso: petróleo (13%, segundo a ANP, Agência Nacional do Petróleo) e agropecuária (21%, de acordo com a CNA, Confederação da Agricultura e Pecuária).São ícones do atraso, que nos renderam o pior governo da história. O primeiro, com a Lava Jato, e o segundo, com a mentalidade colonial bolsonarista. Mais O petróleo tem prazo para se tornar obsoleto, dentro de duas ou três décadas. Os combustíveis fósseis serão deslocados da matriz energética em favor da eletricidade produzida por fontes renováveis de geração, pois não cabe mais carbono na atmosfera.Da agropecuária se espera mais, que o Brasil vá alimentar o mundo. Mas aqui se pratica a maneira menos inteligente de fazê-lo, destruindo florestas e glorificando a carne bovina —proteína animal mais insustentável que existe, apesar do peso considerável na economia.O faturamento com abate de bois e vacas aparece em segundo lugar na produção rural, com R$ 140 bilhões em 2020. Perde só para a soja e seus R$ 176 bilhões. No entanto, boa parte da safra dessa leguminosa e do milho (terceiro lugar) se destina a ração para gado; além disso, o quarto produto do ranking também cabe à pecuária —de leite.Em contraste, 8% dos brasileiros se declaram vegetarianos. É uma proporção similar à do país líder na Europa, Itália (10%), e dos vice-campeões Reino Unido, Alemanha e Áustria (9%); nos Estados Unidos são 5%.A tendência a abrir mão da carne parece galopar, sobretudo entre jovens. Mais Razões para abster-se de proteína animal há várias. Saúde, antes de mais nada: o consumo regular de carnes vermelhas e processadas está associado com risco aumentado de doença cardíaca, tumores de cólon, diabetes e pneumonia.Há quem rejeite esses alimentos por motivos éticos, como a preocupação com bem-estar animal. Bastam imagens e informação sobre granjas industriais de porcos e galinhas ou abatedouros de bovinos para revirar o estômago de qualquer um.Nos mercados internacionais, e até no doméstico, cresce a atenção para o impacto ambiental da pecuária do Brasil. Trata-se, afinal, do maior exportador de carne bovina do planeta (22% do total).Alguns dos maiores frigoríficos do mundo, multinacionais nascidas aqui, tentam a custo livrar-se da pecha justificada de destruidores da biodiversidade amazônica e fornalhas do aquecimento global. Neste último caso, pela emissão de gases do efeito estufa com a queima de florestas (dióxido de carbono) e com a digestão de celulose no rúmen de vacas e bois (metano).O desmatamento tem como motor principal a grilagem, ou seja, a ocupação ilegal de terras públicas, e a derrubada em propriedades acima do permitido por lei. Nas duas frentes, o corte raso serve para abrir terreno para gado.Em seguida, terras desmatadas podem acabar vendidas a agricultores para plantio, mas é comum também os pastos serem degradados pela pecuária extensiva (até 80% estariam nessa situação) ou mesmo abandonados. Em ambas as situações, renova-se a demanda pela abertura de áreas virgens.O desmatamento, sozinho, responde por 44% das emissões de gases do efeito estufa no Brasil, e a criação de bois tem forte influência nisso. A contribuição ruralista para a crise climática, contudo, vai além da queima de florestas. Mais A atividade agropecuária representa 28% da poluição climática produzida no Brasil, mesmo sem contar o desmatamento. E a maior parte disso provém da fermentação entérica, ou seja, do metano emitido no que se convencionou chamar de arroto das vacas.O Seeg (Sistema de Estimativas de Emissões e Remoções de Gases de Efeito Estufa) calcula que 72% das emissões brasileiras de gases do efeito estufa se originam no setor rural. Não seria descabido concluir que a pecuária nacional, em geral de baixa produtividade, merece a fama de vilã ambiental.A alternativa factível não está na substituição de rebanhos pela produção de carne artificial em laboratório (ou mesmo imitações de origem vegetal, "plant-based", embora essa seja uma opção para muitos consumidores). Eis aí um tipo de gambiarra tecnológica ("technological fix") tão fantasiosa quanto livrar-se do aquecimento global pondo em órbita titânicos guarda-sóis. Mais racional seria melhorar a produtividade e o manejo do gado no país, que exibe lotação de apenas cerca de uma cabeça por hectare (10 mil metros quadrados).Só com recuperação de pastagens, rotação de piquetes para diminuir pisoteio e integração lavoura-pecuária-floresta seria possível dobrar a eficiência da pecuária bovina.Haveria benefício triplo. Primeiro, cairia a demanda por terras, liberando áreas para agricultura sem necessidade de desmatamento. Depois, com abate mais precoce, diminuiria a emissão de metano. Por fim, com mais biomassa no solo, aumentaria o sequestro de carbono que de outro modo chegaria à atmosfera. Mais O fato é que a pecuária de corte não vai sumir tão cedo, embora seja possível prever o aumento da pressão de mercados internacionais por carne "verde", ou seja, produzida em condições ambientais aceitáveis.O Brasil só teria a ganhar avançando nessa direção: menos devastação, menores emissões, mais eficiência, custos reduzidos, reputação melhorada, recursos hídricos preservados etc.Fala-se muito, na banda modernizada do agronegócio, em agricultura de baixo carbono. Não seria preciso derrubar um hectare sequer para seguir aumentando as safras para alimentar o mundo, prometem os ufanistas.Apesar dessa conversa, o desmatamento continua aumentando na Amazônia e fora dela sob Jair Bolsonaro. A banda atrasada do setor rural, na qual mandam grileiros e pecuaristas, vai passando a boiada no Congresso e fora dele, indiferente aos danos para o próprio negócio, à saúde da população e ao clima do planeta.Se o setor não se mostrar capaz de acertar o passo com o tempo, de pouco valerá a agropecuária compor mais de um terço do PIB, tornar-se o quarto maior exportador do mundo, absorver um terço da força de trabalho e sustentar o saldo da balança comercial.O petróleo está aí para mostrar que nenhuma hegemonia dura para sempre. | comida |
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] | Quando pensa em agroecologia, a professora Solange Struwka, da Universidade Federal de Rondônia (Unir), em Porto Velho, fala logo do protagonismo das mulheres."São elas que acabam puxando os trabalhos ligados aos pomares, aos quintais, ao cuidado com as sementes. Elas que foram mantendo as práticas, conhecimentos, materiais genéticos e o domínio teórico, que não está sistematizado."Na Amazônia, Struwka acompanha um grupo dedicado ao plantio agroecológico de mais de 200 famílias, numa região considerada crítica, pelo avanço das lavouras de soja, que recebem agrotóxicos despejados de aviões. "Agroecologia é respeito à natureza e às pessoas, é divisão justa do trabalho, é um projeto de sociedade, muito diferente desse modelo do agronegócio", diz.A definição de agroecologia compreende tanto um campo de estudo na ciência quanto movimento social e práticas agrícolas.Na literatura científica, o termo foi usado pela primeira vez na década de 1930 pelo agrônomo russo Basil Bensin (1881-1973) para descrever o uso de métodos ecológicos na pesquisa de espécies comerciais —como uma aplicação da ecologia na agricultura.O conceito evoluiu. No Brasil, estudiosos ressaltam que o termo envolve várias disciplinas científicas para a criação de sistemas alimentares sustentáveis. Não apenas isso: define ainda uma estratégia de mobilização que considera aspectos éticos e sociais na produção de alimentos, para além dos ambientais."A agroecologia integra a ciência, mas está na base das organizações sociais", explica Isabel Cristina da Silva, agrônoma e parte da diretoria da Associação Brasileira de Agroecologia (ABA). "Estão na sua raiz a reforma agrária, o direito aos territórios e à qualidade de vida, as comunidades tradicionais, o respeito às diversidades", complementa.O conceito não se resume ao cultivo orgânico. "Não adianta só deixar de usar glifosato. Se o sistema continua violento, se a produção continua impactando de outras formas a sociedade, não é agroecologia", diz a especialista.Essa compreensão sempre esteve na vida da produtora Cleide Passos, segundo ela, que precisou abandonar o passado às margens do rio Madeira, em Rondônia, devido a construção de uma barragem."Eu já praticava agroecologia, só não sabia que esse era o nome", afirma.Hoje, Cleide coordena um grupo de mulheres em Candeias de Jamari, em Rondônia. "Botar a mão na terra, saber que aquilo vai alimentar teus filhos, sua família e, depois, outras pessoas, faz com eu tenha vontade de trabalhar, de unir a agricultura familiar e agroecológica para alimentar o campo e a cidade."Também no bioma amazônico, pesquisadores da UFMT (Universidade Federal de Mato Grosso), em Sinop, apoiam uma iniciativa agroecológica com assentados.A principal fonte de financiamento do projeto, batizado de "Gaia", vem do banco alemão KfW."A gente enfrenta muita resistência aqui", diz a pesquisadora Rafaella Arantes Felipe, que coordena o grupo. "Trabalhamos com os produtores, ajudamos no treinamento e a escoar a produção. Eles levam o conhecimento adiante e resistem, cuidando da saúde do solo, em meio a tanto cultivo com agrotóxico", afirma. Mais A milhares de quilômetros dali, na Zona da Mata alagoana, a história de Edcleide da Rocha Silva, em União dos Palmares, não é diferente. O assentamento onde sua família cultiva os alimentos faz fronteira com tradicionais e extensas lavouras de cana-de-açúcar que também recebem pulverização aérea de produtos químicos."Em apenas um hectare, minha família planta com bastante diversidade. Nos alimentamos com nossas frutas, verduras e raízes, vendemos nas feiras e ainda doamos em ações de solidariedade", diz a agricultora."A mão que planta não pode produzir violência, seja contra criança, seja contra mulher, seja contra a natureza", diz Edcleide da Rocha Silva.No quintal de Ana Correia dos Reis, 67, os pés de amora estão carregados. A colheita do fruto já começou, logo será a vez das acerolas e mangas. "Trabalho todos os dias na roça, ajudo a cuidar das plantas", diz ela, que mora num assentamento homologado do Movimento dos Trabalhadores Rurais Sem Terra, MST, em São José dos Campos, a 90 km de São Paulo. Mais Desde que ganhou a posse da terra, essa produtora escolheu seguir os ensinamentos da agroecologia. "Sinto muito orgulho de poder oferecer essa comida sem veneno para as pessoas".Durante esta crise sanitária, a feira agroecológica em que Ana vendia sua produção foi cancelada. Sem condições de escoar os alimentos, ela e o filho passaram a receber ajuda de um pequeno grupo, chamado de coagricultores. Eles pagam um valor mensal para a família investir na produção e na manutenção do sítio e, em troca, recebem cestas semanais com o que é colhido."Eles correm o risco junto com nossa família de termos imprevistos na produção, como seca, geada e excesso de chuva. E quando a colheita é abundante, eles também se beneficiam com mais produtos", diz o filho, Leandro Reis. A agroecologia deveria ser pauta do Estado, defende Isabel Cristina da Silva: "No Brasil, há mais de 19 milhões de pessoas passando fome. O país precisa de políticas que promovam acesso a alimentos de qualidade e facilitem sua comercialização". | comida |
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] | A fome está na foto de pessoas catando ossos em uma caçamba e na estatística: não era tanta pelo menos desde 2004. No entanto, a produção da agropecuária aumentou praticamente sem parar desde então. O produto das lavouras e da pecuária cresceu mais do que a população; há mais matéria-prima de comida por cabeça ou boca, mesmo se descontada a quantidade destinada a exportações.No caso de alguns produtos, a quantidade disponível por brasileiro é ao menos a mesma registrada em torno de 2013, período de fome mínima.Esse paradoxo parece fácil de explicar, ao menos no que diz respeito a quantidades. Desde 2014, a pobreza aumenta. Há quem argumente que, ainda que a conjuntura dura pese muito, o predomínio econômico e político do agronegócio sustenta a estrutura que causa também a fome.A contraposição simples entre agronegócio e agricultura familiar, porém, não ajuda a pensar o problema, porque existem variantes sob cada um desses rótulos. Por falar em mitos, a agricultura familiar não produz "70% dos alimentos" consumidos no país.Neste século, aumentou no Brasil a produção per capita de soja, milho, trigo, de carne de boi, porco e frango, por exemplo, segundo contas feitas com dados da Companhia Nacional de Abastecimento (Conab). No caso de arroz e feijão, a produção per capita diminuiu um pouco, mas a quantidade disponível para consumo doméstico é quase a mesma dos anos de fome mínima. A disponibilidade interna (produção mais importação menos exportação) de carne de frango e de porco é ligeiramente maior do que nos anos de maior segurança alimentar (próximos de 2013); a de carne de boi era a mesma até 2019, e menor em 2020.Pesquisas do IBGE de 2004, 2009, 2013 e 2018 mediram o grau de insegurança alimentar no país. Com metodologia similar, completa a série uma pesquisa de 2020, feita pela Rede Brasileira de Pesquisa em Soberania e Segurança Alimentar e Nutricional (Rede Penssan), consórcio independente de pesquisadores.A "insegurança alimentar" moderada e grave —fome ou quase isso— atingia 21,5% da população em 2004, foi a 10,3% em 2013, voltou a aumentar e chegou a 20,5% em 2020. É maior no meio rural, no Norte e no Nordeste.A pobreza havia baixado de 25% da população em 2004 para 8,4% em 2014. Subiu para 11% na recessão de 2015-2016 e foi a 16% no início deste 2021 (sem o auxílio emergencial). No primeiro semestre, a renda per capita do trabalho da metade mais pobre do país foi um terço menor que a de fins de 2014 (dados do FGV Social). O número de pessoas com algum trabalho é o menor desde 2012 (IBGE.) Domicílios sem renda alguma vinda do trabalho são 28,5% do total (Ipea).O valor médio do Bolsa Família é 16% menor do que em agosto de 2014, máximo da série. O PIB per capita caiu quase 11% de 2014 a 2020; ao fim deste 2021, a baixa ainda deverá ser de 7%.Para piorar, o surto inflacionário é o terceiro maior do século; a carestia de alimentos, a maior desde 2003. A inflação mundial de alimentos em 30 anos só não é maior do que em meses de 2008 e 2011, segundo a FAO (Organização das Nações Unidas para a Alimentação e a Agricultura). Nem sempre a carestia mundial e a brasileira coincidem: problemas climáticos e o preço do dólar podem piorar a situação aqui, como agora.Gerd Sparovek, professor da Escola Superior de Agricultura da USP (Esalq) e o pesquisador Alberto Barretto, do Grupo de Políticas Públicas da Esalq, não acreditam que a estrutura de propriedade e produção agrícola sejam a causa recente da fome: mudam de modo mais lento que a conjuntura, para começar. Mas dizem que a falta ou o anacronismo de políticas públicas para o setor pioram o problema.Os pesquisadores citam o PAA, Programa de Aquisição de Alimentos, que garante demanda para o pequeno produtor, movimenta economias locais, atenua a pobreza e a migração para cidades maiores. Eles acham que estoques reguladores (compras governamentais) podem servir a estratégias pontuais para controlar crises de escassez (como a do arroz, no ano passado).Walter Belik, professor aposentado de economia agrícola na Unicamp, é outro defensor de estoques, criticados pelos mais liberais. Ele defende um programa modernizado: em vez de acúmulo de grãos em silos, o governo deveria ter opções de compra para situações de escassez.Renato Maluf, professor da UFRRJ e coordenador da Rede Penssan, e Regina Sambuichi, pesquisadora do Ipea e conhecedora de agricultura familiar, vão além no que diz respeito a intervenções.Fome depende de conjuntura, mas também de desigualdade, criada em parte pela formação histórica, com concentração fundiária, dizem. É maior no campo, o que tem a ver também com falta de acesso à terra, encarecida e ocupada pela expansão da agricultura exportadora."O problema não é de produção, ponto, mas de produção, atendidos certos requisitos", diz Maluf. Isto é, produção com menos impacto ambiental, que aproveitaria culturas locais diversas, insumos e fontes de energia regionais, que preservaria circuitos locais de produção e comércio. Mais Tal modelo reduziria a sujeição do país a flutuações internacionais, o que ameaça o abastecimento e a segurança alimentar. Enfim, uma agricultura que não fosse fruto da mera regulação privada, que ocupa o vazio da falta de regulação estatal, processo acelerado pela aliança do agronegócio com o atual governo.O orçamento do PAA tem sido reduzido pelos governos desde 2014. Em 2021, é de R$ 324 milhões, 0,03% do valor bruto da produção agropecuária. Mas faz diferença, dizem Maluf e Sambuichi, assim como o programa de cisternas em regiões áridas, e são apenas traços do que deveria ser uma política ampla de sustentação do agricultor familiar.A grande agropecuária, de resto, tem privilégios, concordam vários pesquisadores. Apesar de acesso a mercados de capital, têm subsídios diretos por meio de crédito a juros abaixo de mercado e com escassa (e recente) contrapartida ambiental; têm isenções de impostos e perdões de dívidas. Contam com subsídios indiretos: incorporação de terra desmatada sem que se pague o custo ambiental, por exemplo. Quanto à pequena agricultura, terá mais problemas para se sustentar. O lucro por área diminui, o que exige terras mais extensas associadas a investimento pesado em capital, tecnologia. Os donos envelhecem e, na sucessão, suas terras são fragmentadas e se tornam insustentáveis, diz Barretto.O pesquisador afirma que classificar os produtores sob os rótulos agricultura familiar, não familiar, médios e grandes não contribui muito para explicar o que fazem, para onde vão e de que política precisam os muito diversos 5,1 milhões de estabelecimentos rurais do país.A massa dos agricultores familiares produz pouco e é pobre. Na análise de Barretto, há um grupo de agricultores chamado de "vulneráveis". Trata-se de 3,2 milhões de propriedades, sendo que 81% delas são de agricultores familiares. Seu faturamento médio por ano é de alguns salários mínimos. Produzem cerca de 4% do ‘‘valor bruto da produção’’ (VBP) da agropecuária brasileira, segundo dados do Censo Agropecuário mais recente do IBGE.Um outro grupo pode ser classificado como ‘‘empreendedor’’, com faturamento médio anual 70 vezes maior que o do grupo de vulneráveis. São 347 mil propriedades, das quais 70% pertencem a agricultores familiares. São responsáveis por 32% do VBP. Em termos de valor produzido, ficam atrás apenas da ‘‘elite’’, grupo constituído por 43 mil propriedades, responsáveis por quase metade do VBP. Mais Os pesquisadores não sabem dizer de onde surgiu a ideia disseminada de que a agricultura familiar produz 70% dos alimentos consumidos no país. Decano das estatísticas sociais e agrícolas, Rodolfo Hoffman demonstrou em nota técnica de 2014 que a conta não faz sentido. Como somar toneladas de alface, carne e uva?Pelo valor da produção agropecuária, diz Barretto, o peso da agricultura familiar deve andar em torno de 23%, proporcional à área ocupada por esses produtores. Caiu entre os Censos de 2006 e 2017 (mais recente), principalmente na produção vegetal; na pecuária, faz 33% do valor produzido. | comida |
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] | Em Portugal, vinho é coisa séria e orgulho nacional. No fechado universo vínico do país, porém, nota-se cada vez mais a presença de profissionais brasileiros, da produção à degustação.Além de criar uma premiada marca de vinhos, o empresário paulista André Manz, por exemplo, foi responsável por ajudar a evitar a extinção de uma uva nativa considerada perdida. Apreciador de vinhos, o brasileiro começou no setor como um hobby, já que, antes de enveredar pela produção de vinhos, em 2010, Manz, em Portugal há 33 anos, criou uma das maiores empresas de fitness do país.A oportunidade surgiu após se mudar com a família para Cheleiros, pequena cidade a cerca de 45 km de Lisboa, e se deparar com algumas vinhas antigas. Uma variedade de uva branca em particular, pequenina e muito doce, acabou lhe chamando a atenção. Após uma investigação, descobriu que se tratava de uma plantação de jampal, que, por ser considerada frágil e pouco rentável, havia caído em desuso.O empresário decidiu investir no cultivo da espécie, dando origem ao Dona Fátima, primeiro vinho da Manzwine. A produção cresceu e ajudou a revitalizar o centro histórico de Cheleiros. Atualmente, Manz também produz vinhos na região do Douro, na península de Setúbal e na Toscana, na Itália.O empresário relata que, nos primeiros anos do negócio, sentiu um pouco de dificuldade por ser um brasileiro no mundo dos vinhos em Portugal. “Nos primeiros cinco anos eu senti dificuldade, porque ainda não havia muitos brasileiros. Quando eu fazia viagens internacionais com outros produtores, me sentia estranho. Não é que eu fosse discriminado, longe disso, mas era estranho", afirma.Para Manz, a boa recepção do público —a empresa já exporta para quase 30 países e tem no Brasil um mercado importante— e as premiações ajudaram a conquistar espaço entre os portugueses. “Para além do negócio em si, o vinho é uma comunidade, forma relações de companheirismo, o que é gratificante.”Na newsletter de Mundo, semanalmente, as análises sobre os principais fatos do globo, explicados de forma leve e interessante.Carregando...Após várias experiências no ramo de vinhos, incluindo uma adega em São Paulo, uma sociedade no ramo de exportação e uma temporada de estudos em Londres, o recifense Ricardo Melo decidiu começar sua própria produção da bebida em Portugal. Na região de Torres Vedras, próximo a Lisboa, ele encontrou uma propriedade com quase 500 anos de história, a Quinta da Ermegeira, que até então estava abandonada.Após recuperar o espaço e as vinhas, Melo deu início à confecção dos chamados vinhos naturais: orgânicos, não filtrados e sem adição de fermentos ou de açúcar. Ele lamenta não ter conseguido vender o produto no Brasil até o momento. “Tentei fazer o possível, fui para feiras em São Paulo, mas todo mundo acha que está muito difícil, que o câmbio faz tudo ficar muito caro. Mas ainda tenho esperança”, diz.A maior parte da produção da Quinta da Ermegeira já é para exportação, e os dois maiores mercados são os Estados Unidos e o Japão, onde a demanda por vinhos naturais é bastante aquecida.“O mercado de vinhos naturais é um nicho muito específico. São vinhos sem interferências, sem aditivos químicos, sem nada. É um conceito que existe no mundo inteiro, inclusive na Europa, mas que em Portugal não tinha sido muito difundido. Esse movimento começou há menos de cinco anos”, explica. Mais A recuperação de antigas fazendas abandonadas, aliás, tem sido uma porta de entrada para muitos brasileiros interessados em se aventurar na produção de vinhos.No Norte de Portugal, no Douro –região vinícola demarcada como a mais antiga do mundo–, o mercado para estrangeiros tem estado particularmente aquecido. A presença brasileira, no entanto, não se limita à produção. Sommeliers e enólogos do país são presença comum em restaurantes e lojas de referência.É o caso do carioca Pedro Henrique Ramos, 39, um dos sommeliers chefes do Alma, restaurante em Lisboa com duas estrelas Michelin, e influencer de vinhos nas redes sociais.Especialista em vinhos portugueses, ele se mudou para Portugal em 2014 para estudar todas as etapas da produção da bebida, da plantação à degustação. Pedro chegou a morar durante um período em uma fazenda na região do Alentejo para acompanhar a colheita das uvas e o processo de fabricação dos vinhos. Ele conta ter ficado fascinado pelos vinhos portugueses ainda criança, após passar férias com a família em Portugal e visitar as históricas caves do vinho do Porto.Conhecido nas redes sociais como Pedrones, o sommelier concilia o trabalho no restaurante com posts e vídeos bem-humorados nas redes sociais. Junto com a esposa, a especialista em comunicação digital Liana Saldanha, ele dá dicas e ensina técnicas de harmonização e degustação da bebida.Ramos relata que o fato de ser brasileiro, às vezes, causa alguma desconfiança entre os clientes lusitanos. “Felizmente é algo raro, mas já aconteceu. Houve um cliente que fez questão de dizer que não estava muito confiante na minha indicação. No fim das contas, depois de provar o vinho, ele veio me pedir desculpas. Nesses casos, a melhor resposta que eu posso dar é o meu trabalho”, diz.Inaugurado em 2019 e já com uma estrela Michelin, o restaurante Eneko Lisboa também tem um brasileiro como sommelier. A harmonização dos vinhos da casa fica a cargo do paulista Diego Apolinário, que integra o projeto desde a abertura. Em Portugal há oito anos, ele relata que a conexão com o mundo dos vinhos aconteceu por acaso, já após se estabelecer na capital portuguesa.“Resolvi me mudar para Portugal depois de vir de férias e me apaixonar pelo país. Eu nem gostava de vinhos, mas comecei a trabalhar em um restaurante com uma pessoa espetacular. Meu chefe era uma enciclopédia ambulante, um dos sommeliers mais antigos do país. Comecei a estudar por conta própria e, depois, a fazer as certificações internacionais”, explica.Os estudos e as provas de certificação como sommelier o levaram ainda para Áustria e Reino Unido.“Os portugueses têm muito orgulho de seus vinhos. Então, num primeiro momento, pode até haver alguma desconfiança, mas é só começarmos a falar sobre o tema que a conexão vem”, diz. “Os portugueses são bem mais abertos do que muita gente espera." | comida |
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] | O crescimento do interesse de brasileiros por vinhos nos últimos anos fez com que produtores portugueses passassem a olhar o país com um interesse especial.Historicamente ligada ao Brasil devido ao período colonial, a bebida feita em terras lusas ficou um pouco distante nas últimas décadas, e assim Portugal viu a ascensão de concorrentes sul-americanos. Mais Vinhos produzidos na região, especialmente no Chile e na Argentina, ganharam espaço nas taças brasileiras, porque chegam ao país com valores mais baixos e em maior quantidade, em parte pela facilidade de transporte e por acordos regionais, como o Mercosul, no caso argentino.Portugal, no entanto, já ultrapassou a Argentina e se tornou o segundo país que mais exporta para o mercado brasileiro, atrás apenas do Chile. Neste ano, entre janeiro e maio, 17,1% dos vinhos importados pelo Brasil eram portugueses, índice que, no mesmo período de 2020, foi até um pouco maior: 17,9%.O consultor Carlos Cabral afirma que o aumento do turismo em Portugal, com destaque para o enoturismo, também ajudou a alavancar esse crescimento, já que, quando voltam para casa, os brasileiros buscam os rótulos que conheceram durante o período no país europeu.E os queridinhos são os vinhos verdes, que, apesar do nome, podem ser tintos, rosés ou brancos. Produzidos na região norte de Portugal, no Minho, ganham a denominação de origem "Vinho Verde" em razão do local em que a bebida é feita —não pela cor do líquido.Os vinhos verdes são conhecidos por serem, em grande parte, jovens, baratos, aromáticos, com acidez e frutados. Também harmonizam bem com frutos do mar, peixes e carne de porco, características que combinam com um país tropical como o Brasil, o que pode explicar, em parte, o interesse.Cabral também cita como diferencial dos vinhos portugueses a produção feita a partir de uvas autóctones –oriundas de um determinado país. Segundo ele, existem cerca de 250 tipos de uvas de Portugal, e o país privilegia este tipo em suas produções. As autóctones portuguesas, no entanto, ainda são pouco internacionalizadas e, portanto, não são muito utilizadas nas produções de vinhos em outros países.Um bom exemplo de cepas autóctones internacionais são as uvas Cabernet Sauvignon e Merlot, da França, amplamente replantadas em outros países e presentes na produção de uma grande quantidade de vinhos de outras nacionalidades.Entre as brancas, algumas das principais uvas autóctones de Portugal são a Alvarinho, Fernão Pires e Encruzado. Já entre as tintas estão Alfrocheiro Preto, Baga, Castelão, Tinta Negra e Trincadeira.Mas a mais famosa das uvas portuguesas é a Touriga Nacional, a mais internacional das cepas do país, diz o sommelier Rodrigo Ferraz. "É a que tem mais vocação para ser popstar de Portugal. É a mais internacional, na cola com a Alvarinho, famosa branca utilizada para produzir os Vinhos Verdes."A Touriga Nacional, afirma, costuma gerar vinhos "no estilo do consumido no mercado brasileiro, que é um estilo de vinho mais encorpado, um pouco mais tânico e com bastante aroma".Ferraz lembra ainda que a Touriga Nacional é uma das uvas mais florais que existem. "Tanto que é usada na produção de blends [vinhos com mais de um tipo de uva], para dar essa intensidade aromática."O enólogo portugues Miguel Ângelo Vicente Almeida conta que mais de 90% dos vinhos de Portugal são feitos com as castas portuguesas.Segundo ele, que está no Brasil desde 2008 e atua na Miolo, a Touriga Nacional origina vinhos florais e intensos. "É uma casta de aroma próprio. Os aromas dos vinhos tintos sempre advêm da fermentação, do estágio em barrica, e a Touriga Nacional incute já uma característica aromática muito própria."O sommelier Rodrigo Ferraz explica que a influência dos vinhos portugueses foi além do mercado consumidor e já chega, em algum nível, na indústria produtora. Segundo ele, já existem várias iniciativas de produtores brasileiros produzindo com a Touriga Nacional."Tem vinhos sendo produzidos no estilo português desde Campos de Cima da Serra, a 1.100 metros de altitude, no Rio Grande do Sul. Vinhos hiperelegantes, porque vinhos de altitude tem essa pegada", diz."Já na Serras do Sudeste, também no Rio Grande do Sul, que é uma região mais quente, aparece um Touriga Nacional do Alentejo, mais pegado, mais intenso, mais aromático. Os portugueses estão sabendo exportar não só vinhos, mas o estilo de fazer vinho."Na newsletter de Mundo, semanalmente, as análises sobre os principais fatos do globo, explicados de forma leve e interessante.Carregando...Outra característica dos vinhos portugueses é um preço considerado justo. Os especialistas avaliam que a bebida exportada pelo país europeu apresenta valores condizentes com a qualidade que oferece. Apesar disso, a produção em euro dificulta a concorrência com os sul-americanos no mercado brasileiro."No vinho de entrada, de até R$ 40, é muito difícil bater Chile e Argentina", diz Ferraz. "Mas o velho mundo está muito consagrado nas bebidas da faixa média de preço para a mais alta. E Portugal, tratando-se de Douro e Alentejo, as principais regiões portuguesas de marketing, é muito consagrado."Apesar de toda essa movimentação provocada pelos vinhos portugueses no mercado brasileiro e da predileção pelo Vinho Verde, o vinho do Porto segue ainda como o mais conhecido de Portugal. Não só no Brasil, mas no mundo todo. Mais A fama vem de séculos atrás, alimentada pelas relações comerciais e políticas entre o país ibérico e o Império Britânico. A potência inglesa, cuja corte abraçou o vinho do Porto, foi o maior mercado de vinhos por décadas e ditava as tendências de consumo em boa parte do mundo ocidental.O vinho do Porto é um vinho fortificado, com teor alcoólico mais elevado e, por isso, costuma ser consumido em menores quantidades do que os outros tipos, sendo ingerido como aperitivo.Assim, Portugal apresenta uma grande variedade de tipos de vinho, o que também pode ser considerado um atrativo para o mercado brasileiro. Como ainda está amadurecendo quanto ao volume de consumo e ao conhecimento da bebida, o brasileiro, em geral, está experimentando e desenvolvendo o paladar. Reportagens sobre cultura, turismo e gastronomia das nações lusófonas Cada região possui características próprias de clima e solo, e cada produtor costuma empregar sua própria identidade na hora de produzir os seus vinhos. De forma simplificada, o sommelier Rodrigo Ferraz deixa uma dica que pode ajudar quem quer começar a se aventurar na compreensão de características dos vinhos portugueses."As regiões mais do centro para o sul de Portugal, Alentejo, Lisboa, Península de Setúbal, fazem vinhos no estilo intenso: mais tânicos, frutados, que tendem a parecer mais com vinhos de novo mundo [América do Sul, EUA, Austrália], de regiões mais quentes", explica."Do meio para cima –Dão, Bairrada, Douro–, são regiões que fazem vinhos mais elegantes, não tão intensos. São igualmente nobres, mas mais comedidos e leves." | comida |
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] | Os olhos de Henrique Azeredo, sócio da rede de lanchonetes Patties, brilham mais do que os de Marcos Mion na estreia do “Caldeirão”. Com entusiasmo genuíno, ele exclama: “Realizei um sonho!”.O sonho em questão é uma parceria da Patties com a americana White Castle, para celebrar o centenário dos gringos —e da fast food em si, já que a cadeia fundada em 1921, em Wichita, no Kansas (Estados Unidos), é a mais antiga do mundo.Nem todo hambúrguer é fast food. A White Castle, que não opera no Brasil, inaugurou o modelo de atendimento. A fast food se caracteriza pela ausência do serviço de mesa.O cliente paga antecipadamente, recebe a comida embalada em sacos de papel e caixas de cartolina e só então vai buscar um lugar para se sentar. É “fast” porque ninguém aguenta ficar muito tempo em pé na espera.Nem todo fast food é hambúrguer. O sistema vale para pizza, sushi, acarajé e qualquer comida que caiba numa praça de alimentação. Aqui, para manter o foco, falaremos apenas de hambúrguer.O secular esquema tem legiões de admiradores —o próprio Azeredo se diz fanático pelo McDonald’s—, mas chega à idade avançada com a reputação de vender comida de qualidade inferior.“Quando você tem 40 mil lojas, precisa abrir mão de algumas coisas”, afirma Julio Raw, chef dos restaurantes Z Deli e sócio da Jota Hamburgers —lanchonete fast food aberta há seis meses em um shopping da avenida Paulista.O documentário “Super Size Me”, de 2004, desferiu um golpe doloroso na imagem das grandes redes. Nele, o jornalista americano Morgan Spurlock passa um mês se alimentando exclusivamente de McDonald’s, dieta que lhe faz engordar 11 quilos no período.A primeira década do milênio viu o surgimento de cadeias de fast food menores, com ingredientes melhores e mais frescos e um capricho que é inviável na escala mastodôntica de McDonald’s, Burger King e White Castle.Nos EUA, o movimento foi liderado pelo Shake Shack. Nascido em 2001 como um carrinho de dogão em Nova York, o grupo hoje tem 254 unidades em vários países.Aqui, como de costume, a tendência demorou alguns anos a mais para pegar tração. São representantes desse subgênero o Patties, o Jota e o Bullger, entre outros.A inspiração do Patties vem, além dos já citados White Castle e McDonald’s, de uma pequena lanchonete em Nova Jersey (EUA) chamada White Manna. Azeredo, egresso do setor de marketing, é tão vidrado em marcas clássicas que suas casas ostentam, sem benefício comercial algum, luminosos de fabricantes de ketchup e de refrigerantes.Mas a chapa —sob o comando do chef e sócio Greg Caisley (também do bar Guarita)— não imita nem copia as referências.A tal ação com a White Castle, a rigor, está mais para homenagem do que para parceria. Azeredo obteve a autorização para usar elementos gráficos da rede americana nas embalagens, nas fachadas e nos uniformes dos funcionários.A coisa muda de figura na cozinha. Apesar da admiração, Azeredo sabe que a White Castle faz alguns dos hambúrgueres mais baratos do mundo —os preços começam em US$ 0,72 (R$ 3,78) por sanduíche— e que isso afeta negativamente a qualidade da comida. O sanduíche especial que começa a ser vendido nesta segunda (13) é apenas uma alusão ao estilo da lanchonete do Kansas. O cheesonion (R$ 21) leva dois hamburguinhos de 40 gramas prensados com cebola —a cebola na chapa é uma marca registrada da White Castle— com queijo fundido desenvolvido por Caisley, e um pão também feito sob encomenda. Tem sabor de comida fresca, não de hambúrguer de rede de fast food.No Jota, o chef Julio Raw deixa de lado os hambúrgueres altos e sumarentos, que fazem sucesso no Z Deli, para também investir em sanduíches que remetem às cadeias de fast food, mas com outro patamar de execução e frescor.“Cada um dos estilos é para um momento de consumo”, avalia Raw. “E os hambúrgueres mais finos, feitos ao ponto ou bem passados, viajam melhor.” A demanda por comida para entrega, na pandemia, viabilizou o projeto que o chef incuba há nove anos: a família Ralston, do grupo Ráscal, embarcou no investimento.No cardápio, são alguns detalhes que imprimem no Jota a excelente reputação hamburgueira de Julio Raw. O picles é produzido artesanalmente na Z Deli. Além dele, o Jota Jota (R$15,90) leva 85 gramas de carne moída, queijo processado na casa, bacon, maionese e cebola roxa crua. O cliente pode acrescentar pimenta jalapeño se quiser um pouco de ardência.São apenas sabores típicos americanos, uma obsessão do chef. “Nada contra, eu adoro, mas as lanchonetes brasileiras, com essa coisa de maionese verde, misturam o hambúrguer dos EUA com o sanduba de padoca.” | comida |
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] | Semanas antes do Natal, bandejas de cerejas importadas começam a ganhar espaços chamativos nos corredores de supermercados. Mas, em vez dessas frutas, a confeiteira Joyce Galvão usa grumixama para fazer a decoração da ceia e cereja-do-rio-grande para servir no topo do manjar de coco. Ao compartilhar pequenas histórias pessoais em "Ingredientes para uma Confeitaria Brasileira", a autora diminui a distância entre o leitor e 42 produtos nacionais.Depois de folhear o livro, dividido em cinco seções (frutas, farinhas e cereais, para adoçar, especiarias e frutos secos), fica difícil não querer experimentar itens como a pitangatuba, uma fruta endêmica da Mata Atlântica, que já foi abundante em uma faixa que vai do Espírito Santo ao Rio de Janeiro, e tem polpa carnuda, suculenta, perfumada e agridoce. Provocar interesse é um empurrão da confeiteira para que a oferta de ingredientes nacionais como esses, que depende da demanda de consumidores, um dia seja tão viável quanto a de cerejas chilenas —ainda que exista um longo caminho a trilhar, que passa pelo apoio de institutos de pesquisa e por melhoramento genético, por exemplo. A ideia aproxima a confeitaria de um discurso que chefs estrelados vêm sedimentando em seus restaurantes: o de empregar insumos locais. Entre nossos vizinhos sul-americanos, o chef Virgilio Martínez, do restaurante Central, no Peru, fundou o Mater Iniciativa, um centro de resgate de ingredientes e preparos em sua região. No Brasil, Alex Atala, do D.O.M. e do instituto Atá, ajudou a atrair atenção para méis de abelhas nativas, entre outros alimentos. Joyce Galvão também tem experiência nessa seara: trabalhou na Fundación Alícia, centro de pesquisa e inovação liderado por Ferran Adrià, um dos chefs mais influentes da atualidade, e com o chef Jordi Roca, responsável pelas sobremesas do restaurante El Celler de Can Roca, na Espanha.Formada em gastronomia e em engenharia de alimentos, Galvão também é autora de "A Química dos Bolos" (Companhia de Mesa, 288 págs.). Mas a experiência em cozinha, a conexão com produtos e o domínio técnico não ofuscam a escrita da confeiteira, que consegue transmitir conhecimento de forma acessível e com histórias saborosas. Por exemplo, depois de ler o livro, você não cometeria o mesmo erro da chef, que comprou lindos jenipapos firmes e verdes na feira com a intenção de conhecer melhor o ingrediente. Correu para a cozinha só para descobrir que o produto, antes de amadurecer, é amargo e sem aroma —neste estado, serve apenas como corante azul-índigo. Isso acontece, aprendemos na leitura, graças à genipina, substância que, em contato com proteína, oxigênio e calor forma o geniposídeo, pigmento que vai do violeta ao azul-escuro. O leitor também será advertido de que excesso de cumaru pode dar às suas sobremesas um gosto de sabão. O ingrediente, que tem origem amazônica e sabor adocicado, já era usado por Joyce Galvão na Espanha uma década atrás, época em que no Brasil estava restrito à indústria cosmética. A cumarina, princípio encontrado nesta semente, também está presente na baunilha —o que, explica a autora, faz com que muitas pessoas substituam uma pela outra. Para usar, ela recomenda repousar três sementes em um litro de leite por um dia e, então, empregar o líquido para perfumar receitas como pudim. As recomendações sobre como escolher, preparar e congelar ingredientes brasileiros estão por todos os capítulos. Mas não há receitas propriamente ditas. E existe uma certa coragem em publicar um livro sobre comida que não resvale necessariamente no passo a passo para preparar alimentos. Receitas são uma boa forma de contar uma história --mas não a única dentro da gastronomia. | comida |
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] | Mais do que gostar de comer bem, àqueles que editam o jornalismo voltado à gastronomia são exigidos dois pré-requisitos: a curiosidade e o respeito por todos os tipos de culinária ao redor do globo. Em resumo, é fundamental ter a mente aberta para o que quer que se coloque no prato —e nas reportagens— à sua frente.Como carne, bebo leite, consumo mel e ovos. Já quis parar com todos. O máximo que consegui foi eliminar das panelas em casa os animais em si, mas segui comprando seus derivados em formatos variados. Ser vegano, repetia mentalmente, dá muito trabalho.A crença limitante vem em boa parte do que já encontrei em publicações específicas —por causa delas e de suas receitas pouco práticas, fez-se o preconceito. Mas o problema, ao que parece, é que este universo sem bichos funciona como tudo no mundo: tem seus maus e seus bons exemplos.Patricia Helú é do segundo grupo. Cozinheira consultora de restaurantes, empresas e residências para as culinárias vegana e vegetariana, ela ministra cursos e workshops. Trabalhou como assistente da chef canadense de raw food Joanne Gerrard Young e estudou no Natural Gourmet Institut em Nova York.Em seu currículo, também constam experiências com a comida macrobiótica e a nutrição ayurvédica. Seu “Divina Alquimia”, lançado em julho passado, reúne mais de 300 receitas sem ingredientes animais e sugere que, ao contrário do que se possa pensar, ser vegano não dá tanto trabalho assim.O livro até traz pratos mais trabalhosos, com tempo de preparo que ultrapassa uma hora cheia. A própria autora, no entanto, se mostra a par dessa, que é apenas uma entre as falsa impressões dos carnívoros sobre veganismo, e propõe alternativas mais ligeiras.É o caso do arroz integral com cúrcuma, da salada de minifolhas com picles de beterraba, manga e castanhas ao chimichurri, e do tartar de banana e carambola, que, combinados, formam uma refeição fresca e nutritiva.As receitas são divididas em 11 capítulos e, na introdução, Patricia apresenta receitas-base que prometem facilitar o preparo dos pratos seguintes. São sugestões bem frugais, como o sal de especiarias e o sal verde, o gersal (tempero de origem japonesa) com nori ou simples, e uma pasta de alho. Já o leite de amêndoas, um dos grandes astros do veganismo, aparece no capítulo “Banquete Árabe”, e vale para entrar não só nos pratos ensinados por Patricia, mas em outras receitas de doces e salgados sem produtos animais de outras autorias.A autora sabe que fala também com leitores adeptos de dietas sem qualquer restrição, e inteligentemente oferece dois capítulos que podem agradar a quem sente falta do visual que as carnes proporcionam.São eles “Churrasco”, com tofu coalho no palito e espetinho de legumes defumados, e “Parece, mas Não É”, com um impressionante lombo de jaca idêntico àquele com que carnívoros estão acostumados.Já para substituir peixes, Patricia convoca o coco, que entra no ceviche, e os cogumelos, escalados para a moqueca. Em “Fast Food, há hambúrguer de falafel e nuggets de tofu defumado acompanhados de milkshake de banana com caramelo à base de leite de aveia.São boas as dicas para evitar desperdício e as (poucas, mas muito válidas) propostas de substituição de ingredientes complicados de encontrar ou com preço salgado, derrubando, assim, outra barreira comum aos reticentes.O maior brilho do livro está nas receitas de sobremesa, convidativas e inovadoras —o cheesecake, o caramelado de amêndoas e a bruxinha de doce deleite (assim mesmo, tudo junto) instigam o leitor a correr para a cozinha. Única ressalva é que poderiam estar todos reunidos em um capítulo temático, para facilitar a busca. | comida |
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] | Quando entrei pela primeira vez no chalé do hotel que, desde fevereiro deste ano, passou a se chamar Six Senses Botanique, num vale da porção paulista da serra da Mantiqueira, 15 quilômetros a sudoeste de Campos de Jordão, minha atenção se dividiu por três focos.De imediato, o ambiente do quarto, dominado por materiais quentes, muita madeira, pedras, tecidos brutos, lareira, banheira ao pé da cama, transmitindo um calor de casa de montanha associada com a natureza.Mas também chamou a atenção a própria natureza, exposta através de janelões de vidro (com o aviso de que devem permanecer fechados, afinal, se a natureza animal entrar no quarto inadvertidamente, pode trazer problemas), e que, aparte a vegetação, se materializou na visão de um avantajado jacu, poucos metros adiante, e que logo alçou voo.Finalmente, instalado numa acolhedora poltrona, minha vista ser atraída pelos livros dispostos no quarto: não eram decorativos, mas para ler mesmo, e de cara atraquei-me com um clássico do crítico literário Roberto Schwarz (mais tarde a fundadora do hotel me explicaria que coube ao jornalista e editor Paulo Werneck a curadoria dos livros do hotel: está explicado).Esta sensação inicial confirmava a impressão que eu tivera ao receber, no início do ano, a notícia de que os proprietários do Botanique, o casal Fernanda Ralston e Ricardo Semler, haviam decidido, depois de quase dez anos, outorgar a operação para a rede internacional Six Senses: me pareceu que a filosofia de ambos, os proprietários e a rede, tinha muito em comum, portanto a essência do empreendimento não seria alterada.Os Semler lançaram o Botanique em 2012 dentro de uma visão que hoje se conhece como o novo luxo, pós-luxo ou algo parecido: qualidade e confortos ao máximo, com o mínimo de desperdício e ostentação.No caso do hotel, isto significava aderir à sustentabilidade, à integração ao meio, à utilização dos recursos locais (de materiais de construção a ingredientes culinários) com menor impacto ambiental e social possível.Pois não era muito diferente o que pensava um outro casal, criador da bandeira Six Senses, vendida em 2012 e hoje parte da corporação inglesa InterContinental. A marca nasceu em 1995 nas ilhas Maldivas, pelas mãos da dupla de ambientalistas que já naquela época pregava tais bandeiras (e até hoje mantem a propriedade pioneira, o resort Soneva).O espírito inicial não se dissipou, mesmo com a grande expansão recente, que resultou em mais de 40 hoteis, resorts e spas em 20 países. Baseada na Ásia, em 2015 a bandeira chegou à Europa, com o Six Senses Douro, à beira do rio em Portugal; e este ano chega pela primeira vez às Américas, com o Botanique.Em comparação com a primeira visita que fiz anos atrás ao hotel, há mudanças como novos ambientes, mantida a estrutura geral —que inclui sete apartamentos no edifício principal e 13 chalés espalhados pela propriedade, alguns com vista para a montanha, outros voltados para o vale.A região tem atrações ao redor, mas no espaço curto de um fim de semana dá pra se entreter mesmo nos limites do hotel.O spa, por exemplo, é sempre um item cultuado dos Six Senses, e no caso do Botanique, tem pelo menos uma novidade com pinta gastronômica: o Alchemy Bar, onde cada hóspede transforma poções de ervas, sais, frutas e uma variedade de ingredientes orgânicos da horta do hotel numas gororobas aromáticas que viram esfoliantes corporais e máscaras faciais.Outra novidade foi o novo lobby bar, chamado Fire Side.Como todo o hotel, tem móveis elaborados com madeira da região, e além disso, drinques preparados com probióticos caseiros, tônicas feitas lá mesmo com ingredientes das hortas locais, servidos com queijos e frios produzidos no entorno e vegetais da horta grelhados na brasa. Esta área da gastronomia do hotel —que inclui o café da manhã no quarto e um piquenique na relva— não mudou de direção. O chef de cozinha continua o de sempre, Gabriel Broide, que antes fora chef em São Paulo, com Felipe Ribenboim, do restaurante autoral Dois Cozinha Contemporânea.O Mina é o principal restaurante do hotel, com vista envidraçada para as escarpas da serra da Mantiqueira.Serve pratos que vão desde a comida de conforto com sabor trivial —como carne de panela feita com músculo, vinho tinto, batata, cenoura e urucum (que pode ser acompanhada de arroz, feijão e farofa); até pratos mais ambiciosos, mas não menos reconfortantes, como o coelho braseado com cenoura glaceada no mel e mostarda.Uma experiência mais gastronômica é realizada, sob reserva, na adega do hotel, com menu-degustação harmonizado com vinhos.No dia em que o provamos, havia pratos como tempura de flor de abobrinha com pancetta e gergelim; leitão caipira com batata doce, alho-poró e molho hollandaise de porco; pêssego flambado com mel de abelhas nativas, amora e morango silvestre, telha de laranja, coalhada e manjericão.Em todos eles, ingredientes da horta do hotel, vegetais e carnes das redondezas, produtos de sitiantes locais, reforçando a ideia de imersão harmoniosa no entorno.Six Senses Botanique R. Elídio Gonçalves da Silva, 4.000 - Bairro dos Mellos, Campos do Jordão, São Paulo. Tel. 012 3662-5800. Diárias durante a semana a partir de R$ 2.277 + taxas, e aos finais de semana a partir de R$ 2.673 + taxas (sixsenses.com/pt/resorts/botanique). O jornalista hospedou-se no Six Senses Botanique a convite do hotel. | comida |
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] | Abrir um vinho às 11 da manhã de uma quarta-feira parece uma ideia ousada, mas se justifica quando a dona da garrafa é uma das mais respeitadas sommeliers do Brasil.Do escritório montado em seu apartamento, em São Paulo, Gabriela Monteleone, 38, deu entrevista pelo Zoom com uma taça na mão e depois de propor “um brinde à vida e ao vinho”.Gabriela é head sommelier e wine director do restaurante D.O.M. desde 2018. Começou a vida profissional como garçonete em um bar na Vila Madalena.Na época, a jovem se encantou com a área de serviços e quis cursar hotelaria, mas a decisão não se sustentou por muito tempo.“Meu pai, um aquariano visionário, me avisou que a Anhembi Morumbi havia iniciado um curso de gastronomia, que era mais minha cara. Eu tinha 20 anos na época e segui o conselho dele. Migrei de curso e me apaixonei”, conta.Em 2005, Gabriela conseguiu estágio no antigo restaurante Acqua Santa. Ali, encontrou o que se tornaria sua especialidade: o vinho.“Não tomava vinho em casa, tomava Coca-Cola. A virada de chave foi quando comecei a estagiar. Eu ficava muito mais tempo na sala de vinhos do que na cozinha. O que era ótimo, porque eu podia provar qualquer garrafa desde que estivesse lendo sobre aquele produto. E aí foi um caminho sem volta”, lembra.Já em um relacionamento sério com a seção de vinhos, Gabriela recebeu um convite. A dona do restaurante propôs uma viagem à Itália para conhecer os produtores dos rótulos que a casa comprava.Depois de um mês de estudos no país, voltou “com os dois pés na profissão de sommelier”. “Eu tinha uma matéria de vinhos na faculdade, então não senti a necessidade de fazer uma formação. Comecei a estudar por conta e usar meu trabalho para aprender, o que foi enriquecedor.”Foi um caminho sem volta. A partir dali, Gabriela trilhou sua carreira em casas como Ici Bistrô, Pomodori, Gero, do Grupo Fasano, e o Grupo D.O.M., onde trabalhou fixo por quatro anos, saiu em 2014 e, em 2018, voltou para não sair mais.A pausa teve um bom motivo: a chegada do filho Francisco. “Decidi sair para ficar mais tempo com o meu filho. E isso acessou um outro botão, que foi começar a trabalhar como consultora, dando palestra, fazendo degustação, adega privada e algumas cartas de restaurante”, comenta.“A jornada de trabalho ainda é muito difícil para as mulheres, principalmente para aquelas que têm filhos. As jornadas são duplas”, avalia Gabriela, que, na entrevista, se dividiu entre as respostas e conversas com Francisco, que brincava na sala ao lado.“Tem que existir uma rede de apoio para isso, e eu tenho esse privilégio. Tenho minha mãe e o pai do Francisco, que divide a semana comigo, possibilitando que eu foque no trabalho.”Durante a pandemia do novo coronavírus, os restaurantes fecharam e Gabriela se viu sem trabalho. Os planos pessoais, então, saíram do papel. Nasceu, assim, o “Tão Longe, Tão Perto”, projeto em que o cliente compra um kit de garrafas e, via Zoom, tem a oportunidade de degustá-las com os produtores e receber explicações sobre o tipo da uva e o processo de fabricação, por exemplo.O projeto, que reuniu mais de 60 profissionais de diversos lugares do mundo, vai virar livro: “Conversas acerca do vinho” tem previsão de lançamento para setembro.Gabriela também lançou recentemente o “Vinho de Combate”, rótulo de três litros acondicionados em uma bolsa plástica , disposto em uma caixa de papelão. O nome faz referência à expressão com que os restaurantes batizam os vinhos mais pedidos da casa.“É um envasamento prático, que é mais reciclável e sustentável que um vidro. Reciclagem gera menos monóxidos de carbono do que vidro”, explica.“O vinho pra mim é algo de muita potência. É um objeto de transformação gigantesca através do diálogo. O estilo, a acidez, a construção econômica. E pode ser algo muito transformador se a gente fizer com o mínimo de respeito. Ele tem um papel central na minha vida.” | comida |
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] | A técnica de colocar carnes, vegetais e temperos em uma só panela, e levá-los ao fogo por longas horas até que se transformem em um alimento caldoso e perfumado, é uma das mais antigas da história da humanidade —pode ter surgido no período Neolítico, afirma a pesquisadora Maria Lucia Gomensoro em Pequeno Dicionário de Gastronomia (Objetiva, 436 páginas, R$ 149).Chegou ao Brasil pelas mãos das mulheres portuguesas e, aqui, ganhou temperos africanos e indígenas para assumir diferentes feições regionais. Mas a receita não é exclusividade portuguesa —basta procurar direitinho para descobrir que cada país e cada cultura tem um cozido para chamar de seu.A versão servida pelo português Eduardo de Castro no restaurante Casa do Chef, no Morumbi (R$ 150, para dois), é tradicional de Trás-os-Montes. Nascido em Alfândega da Fé, ele mistura carnes bovina e suína, toucinho, chouriço, cenoura, batata, repolho, alho e cebola.“O caldo do cozimento, nós portugueses usamos para preparar o arroz e tomar como um consomê, em uma tigelinha de barro chamada malga”, explica.Outros países europeus têm versões parecidas, do pot-au-feu francês ao bollito misto italiano, apresentado ao paulistano pelo restaurante do hotel Ca’d’Oro —o prato, que também faz parte do cardápio do Parigi, às quartas e domingos (R$ 180), e do Gero, às sextas-feiras (R$ 165), chega ao salão no tradicional carrinho, à moda Ca’d’Oro.Já o cozido “herança das mulheres da minha vida”, que a chef Janaína Rueda serve às quartas no Bar da Dona Onça (R$ 69), inspira-se no puchero espanhol. Abrasileirado, não leva grão-de-bico, como a receita original, e incorpora legumes daqui, como chuchu e quiabo.“Eu morava com minha mãe, minha madrinha e minha avó, de ascendência espanhola, e toda semana comíamos esse cozido. Como as três trabalhavam muito, era preparado na panela de pressão, como faço até hoje.”Alguns cozidos de origem europeia se mantiveram como um segredo familiar e raramente aparecem em restaurantes. É o caso do cholent judaico, que praticamente se prepara sozinho por ser o prato típico do Shabat, período reservado ao descanso, que vai do pôr do sol de sexta-feira ao mesmo horário do sábado.Além de carnes e legumes, leva feijão e cevadinha.“A gente põe tudo em uma panela grande e deixa no fogo bem baixo durante a noite toda, para comer no dia seguinte”, ensina Eliana Guttman, 67, paulistana de família polonesa.Cozido típico da cidade de Arequipa, no Peru, o chupe foge da combinação clássica carnes e legumes —surgiu como uma tradição da Semana Santa e, por isso, tem como base frutos do mar.“É como uma sopa espessa, que leva camarões de água doce, batatas, queijo fresco, favas, ervilhas, milho e abóbora”, explica o chef peruano Victor López, do Cena Cozinha, especializado em eventos e pratos por encomenda.Variações são permitidas. López faz uma versão de peixe (R$ 120, para dois) e outra vegetariana (R$ 90, para dois). Como não encontra por aqui a erva huacatay, a menta peruana, adota como substituta a hortelã —só não podem faltar os ajís, pimentas andinas bem ardidas e aromáticas. O Japão também tem seu cozido. Adaptação do curry inglês, o karê é servido no norte do país, especialmente nas estações frias, e se destaca pela pimenta em porção generosa.“As casas de karê costumam oferecer cinco níveis de picância e quem come a última não paga a conta. Tentei e não consegui”, conta Thiago Bañares, chef do restaurante Kotori.O karê que ele prepara na casa, servido com gohan e ovo frito (R$ 52), leva paleta de porco, caldo de frango, cenoura e batatas, parte delas amassadas para engrossar o caldo, temperado com curry, muita cebola, shoyu, cardamomo e cominho.Quando se percorre o Brasil, a fartura de cozidos não é menor. Típico do Paraná, o barreado mistura carne bovina, barriga suína e ervas, preparadas em panela de barro selada com goma feita de farinha de mandioca, para que o vapor não escape.Reza a lenda que a receita se popularizou no famoso Carnaval de rua da região —bom para repor as energias, o prato ia cozinhando enquanto as famílias se divertiam.Há controvérsias sobre a origem da técnica. Luís da Câmara Cascudo, autor de História da alimentação no Brasil, vê influência dos índios, que enterravam a panela sob a fogueira. Mas a chef Mara Salles, do restaurante Tordesilhas, lembra que a ideia pode ter sido trazida pelos imigrantes açorianos —o cozido das furnas, da Ilha de São Miguel, é feito em panela enterrada em solo vulcânico.“Como o lacre na tampa deixa escapar muito pouco ar, os sabores ficam represados. A tradição, no Paraná, é comer com farinha de mandioca muito fina, para formar um pirão no próprio prato, e banana”, explica a chef, que mantém o prato no cardápio do Tordesilhas, inclusive para delivery (R$ 75 no Ifood).No interior de São Paulo, o afogado é cozido de carnes e batata típico da Festa do Divino, em São Luiz do Paraitinga. No século 19, os ingredientes eram doados pela população, que esperava em troca bons frutos na plantação —até hoje, o prato é distribuído gratuitamente no dia da festa.“Cansei de entrar na fila com meu irmão, com pratinho na mão, e sentar na beira do rio para comer”, lembra a chef Heloísa Bacellar, que cresceu na cidade e aprimorou a receita. “Sempre foi uma coisa meio tosca, cozida em tachos imensos pelos homens. Eu faço com maminha bem limpa e capricho no refogado. O segredo é cozinhar por muito tempo, até a carne desmanchar.”Quando se chega ao Nordeste, os cozidos também se sobrepõem. No cardápio do restaurante Panelão do Norte, na Penha, fazem sucesso a panelada à moda do Nordeste, com fava, bucho, mocotó, calabresa, jabá, bacon, batata e cenoura (R$ 103, para dois) e a galinhada caipira, na qual a ave cozinha na mesma panela com arroz, tomate, pimentão, cebola e ovo (R$ 96, para dois).“Aprendi com a socióloga Maria de Lourdes Ramalho que os cozidos nordestinos são herança das cozinhas portuguesas e judaicas”, explica o chef Carlos Ribeiro, consultor do restaurante e pesquisador da culinária brasileira.COZIDO À MODA DE TRÁS-OS-MONTES(Casa do Chef Eduardo de Castro)4 porçõesIngredientes2 folhas de louro; 1 ramo de tomilho; 1 cebola cortada em quatro; 3 dentes de alho; 6 grãos de pimenta branca; sal a gosto; 200 g de acém; 200 g de costela suína; 150 g de toucinho defumado; 1 chouriço português; 1 maço de couve-manteiga; 1 talo de alho-poró; 4 cenouras; 1 repolho; 8 batatas médias; 1 nabo; 200 g de coxas e sobrecoxas de frango (cozidas à parte). Modo de fazerEm uma panela com bastante água, coloque o louro, o tomilho, a cebola, o alho, a pimenta branca e o sal. Quando ferver, junte todas as carnes (menos o frango) e cozinhe por 4 horas. Retire as carnes e reserve.Em outra panela, com metade do caldo do cozimento (coado) e outra parte igual de água, cozinhe os legumes inteiros até que estejam macios. Junte então as carnes e o frango, acerte o sal e sirva com arroz branco, cozido no restante do caldo do cozimento das carnes (coado).AFOGADO(Heloisa Bacellar)6 porçõesIngredientes200 g de bacon em cubinhos; 1 cebola grande picada; 2 dentes de alho picados; 1 pimentão vermelho em cubinhos; 4 tomates sem pele nem sementes em cubinhos; 2 kg de maminha bem limpa em cubos de 2 cm; 3 litros de água fervente; 1 folha de louro; sal e pimenta-do-reino a gosto; ½ xícara de ervas frescas (hortelã, manjericão, salsinha e cebolinha); 6 bananas-nanicas maduras; 3 xícaras de farinha de mandioca fina; óleo para refogar.Modo de fazerUnte o fundo de uma panela grande com um pouco de óleo e doure ligeiramente o bacon. Junte a cebola, o alho, o pimentão e o tomate e espere murchar. Acrescente a carne, mexa até dourar e então adicione a água, o louro, sal e pimenta. Quando ferver, retire com a escumadeira a espuma que se formar na superfície. Abaixe o fogo e cozinhe por três horas com a panela semitampada, até que a carne esteja desmanchando. Junte então as ervas e sirva com as bananas cozidas, farinha e molho de pimenta.CHUPE DE PEIXE(Victor López, Cena Cozinha)4 porçõesIngredientes2 colheres (sopa) de azeite; 1 colher (sopa) de manteiga; 1 cebola branca picada; 2 dentes de alho picados; ½ xícara de ají amarillo; ½ xícara de ají panca; sal e pimenta-do-reino a gosto; 4 colheres (sopa) de abóbora ralada; 2 colheres (sopa) de extrato de tomate; 1 litro de caldo de peixe; 2 batatas cozidas em cubos; 1 xícara de milho; ½ xícara de ervilhas frescas; 1 colher (sopa) de orégano fresco; ½ xícara de penne; 4 filés de peixe branco empanados; queijo branco em cubos a gosto; 4 ovos fritos em manteiga; croutons a gosto.Modo de fazerEm uma panela, no fogo baixo, doure a cebola no azeite com a manteiga. Adicione o alho, refogue um pouco e acrescente os ajís, o sal e a pimenta-do-reino e cozinhe por dez minutos. Incorpore a abóbora ralada e o extrato de tomate, adicione o caldo de peixe, as batatas, o milho, as ervilhas frescas e o orégano e deixe ferver por mais dez minutos. Por fim, acrescente o macarrão e deixe cozinhar por seis minutos. Sirva com o peixe empanado, o queijo, os ovos e os croutons.COZIDO BRASILEIRO(Janaína Rueda, Bar da Dona Onça)2 porçõesIngredientes200 g de patinho em cubos; sal a gosto; pimenta-do-reino a gosto; 30 ml de azeite; 1 coxa grande de galinha caipira; 100 g de linguiça artesanal; ½ cebola pequena picada; 2 dentes de alho picados; 1 litro de caldo de legumes; 50 g de cenoura em rodelas; 50 g de batata em rodelas; 50 g de chuchu em rodelas; 30 g de quiabo em rodelas; salsinha e cebolinha a gosto.Modo de fazerNa véspera, tempere a carne com sal e pimenta e deixe marinando na geladeira. Aqueça bem o azeite e doure a carne, pingando um pouco de água para soltar o caldo. Retire da panela e reserve. Na mesma panela, doure o frango, pingando um pouco de água também, e reserve o frango e o caldo. Repita a mesma operação com a linguiça.Na mesma frigideira, doure a cebola e o alho, adicione o caldo de legumes para soltar o sabor da crosta que se formou no fundo e leve tudo à panela de pressão, junto com as carnes e os caldos, e cozinhe por 25 minutos a partir do momento em que começar a apitar.Desligue, retire a pressão, abra a panela, acrescente a cenoura e deixe ferver (sem pressão) por dois minutos. Adicione então a batata e o chuchu e ferva até que estejam macios. Depois, faça o mesmo com o quiabo. Finalize com salsinha e cebolinha e sirva. | comida |
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] | Se nos últimos meses você sentiu mais vontade de procurar conforto em sabores clássicos —e até nostálgicos—, como algodão doce ou churros, ou de temperos que remetam a outras culturas, como um frango ao molho sweet chilli (a pimenta agridoce), saiba que não está sozinho.Essas são duas das principais tendências de sabor que surgiram ao longo do último ano. É o que revela o último relatório Global Taste Trends divulgado pela Kerry, empresa multinacional da área de sabor e nutrição.“A pandemia de Covid-19 certamente teve um impacto no que o consumidor procura”, afirma Pedro Tatoni, gerente de marketing da Kerry para o Brasil e Cone Sul.Ele explica que, no Brasil, foram dois os caminhos que o público encontrou para lidar com estes momentos de incerteza: um foi buscar alimentos que trazem sensação de conforto e acolhimento; o outro, o que consola a ânsia de não poder viajar. “Caminhos por um lado confortáveis e, por outro, exploratórios.”“Com isso, temperos como chimichurri e cheddar ficaram em alta novamente. Sweet chilli, de pegada oriental, e páprica também apareceram. Do lado da nostalgia, vimos aumentar a procura por sabores caseiros e nostálgicos, como chocolate ou guaraná”, afirma.Tatoni explica que o relatório de tendências de sabor é produzido há quatro anos pela Kerry, mas que este é o segundo ano em que ele é divulgado para o público —ele pode ser acessado pelo site da empresa (kerry.com).O documento mapeia os principais sabores na América do Norte, América Latina, Europa e região da Ásia-Pacífico, Oriente Médio e África, e ressalta como eles variam e viajam através dessas regiões.Além das macrotendências de sabores chamados de nostálgicos e exploratórios, o estudo avalia o que é chamado de sabores sazonais (alimentos com gosto de panetone que surgem na época do Natal, por exemplo), tentadores e inovadores.Também aparecem duas categorias que demonstram que há uma preocupação do consumidor com a saúde: a batizada de dulçor aceitável —que, no Brasil, traz produtos adoçados com mel ou xilitol, por exemplo—, em uma tentativa de gerenciar a ingestão de açúcar, e o que foi denominado de “healthy halo”, algo como “aura saudável”. É o que faz o consumidor escolher o suco verde ou com palavras como “detox” nos corredores do supermercado ou no menu de restaurantes.“Usamos essa pesquisa nas conversas com nossos clientes para poder fomentar a inovação”, explica Tatoni.Entre os produtos que a Kerry faz estão aromas e sabores para redes de alimentação e fast-food, como McDonald’s e Burger King. “Esse material dá base para dizer coisas como ‘o tempero tailandês apareceu muito no último ano’”, afirma.Ou seja: são temas que já estão no mercado e que podem, ou não, cair no gosto do público em geral. “É muito legal ver como os sabores aparecem e como eles se consolidam”, analisa Tatoni. “Ver o que é ‘mainstream’ (algo como ‘popular’) no Brasil mostra um pouco do que é a cultura brasileira”, acredita.Ele cita o exemplo do chimichurri, que está em uma “crescente evolução”. “Aparecia em uma churrascada, de repente está em uma maionese, em um salgadinho...”, diz.Outro, é o “sweet chilli”, de sabor agridoce, que aparece em geleias de pimenta. “É algo que não existia na culinária brasileira, mas que tem ganhado força. Acho que conecta com a coisa do dadinho de tapioca”, avalia.Nostalgiaalgodão doce, brigadeiro, brownie, cereja, cookie, churros, groselha e tutti-fruttiSabores sazonaiscookies & cream, cravo da Índia, maçã com canela e panetoneSabores tentadoresaçaí, beterraba, lemon pepper, pink lemonade, spirulina e piña coladaDulçor aceitávelaçúcar do coco, cacau, canela, mel e xilitolExploratórioscrème brûlée, feijoada, guacamole, habanero, limão-siciliano e tiramisuSabores inovadoresalho negro, cajá, ginger ale, lichia, moscow mule, romã, umbu e wasabiHealthy Haloalho, alho-poró, cardamomo, chá verde, cúrcuma, gengibre, guaraná, hortelã, laranja, limão e manjericão | comida |
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] | Experimente digitar “A Casa do Porco” na busca do Instagram —no dia 28 de junho, data do fechamento desta reportagem, a lista exibia 26 perfis, a maioria com a logomarca do restaurante. Mas só o primeiro, que acumula 373 mil seguidores e exibe o selo azul de autenticidade conferido pelo próprio Instagram, é verdadeiro.A casa do chef Jefferson Rueda, eleito melhor restaurante do Brasil pelo ranking 50 Best Restaurants, tem sido um dos alvos preferidos dos golpistas que atuam na rede social.A estratégia se repete. Por meio de perfis falsos fáceis de criar, que têm nomes bem parecidos e exibem fotos roubadas do original, golpistas entram em contato com seguidores, através do próprio aplicativo, e oferecem de descontos a refeições grátis.Condicionam o prêmio ao envio de um suposto código de verificação. Assim que o número é enviado, o usuário tem seu WhatsApp clonado.O canal sugerido pelo Instagram para resolver o problema —preenchimento de um formulário na Central de Ajuda, indicando violação de propriedade intelectual e direitos autorais— não funcionou para A Casa do Porco.Segundo Flávia Nóbrega, 41, advogada do grupo ao qual pertence o estabelecimento, a questão foi parar na Justiça.“Preenchemos o formulário, mas foi inútil. Após muita espera, notificamos extrajudicialmente o Facebook (empresa à qual o Instagram pertence), mas continuamos sem resposta. Em 26 de outubro, ingressamos com ação judicial”, diz.O recurso, emenda Nóbrega, também não funcionou. Em 30 de outubro, o juiz Luiz Fernando Rodrigues Guerra, da 38ª Vara Cível do Foro Central de São Paulo, determinou que os perfis falsos fossem removidos em 48 horas. “Mas eles continuam lá”, ela chia.O auditor fiscal Luiz Sampaio, 51, foi uma das vítimas. Seguidor do restaurante, recebeu uma mensagem pelo Direct, ferramenta para conversas privadas, com a oferta de desconto de 50% em compras no empório da casa. O diálogo partiu de um perfil falso, mas ele não se deu conta.“Sem pensar muito, mandei o código e imediatamente meu WhatsApp sumiu. Eles então começaram a mandar mensagens para pessoas da minha agenda, sempre pedindo R$ 3.100 em meu nome. Felizmente, eram textos tão toscos que ninguém acreditou.”Sampaio denunciou o perfil falso, para que ninguém mais caísse no golpe. Mas a denúncia, para sua surpresa, caiu no vazio. “O suporte respondeu que o perfil denunciado não infringia nenhuma regra do Instagram”, afirma.A designer de cílios Viviana Russo, 56, também foi abordada por um perfil falso d’A Casa do Porco. Mas, no caso dela, a golpista, que se apresentou como Bruna, foi mais ousada: iniciou a conversa de forma pública, nos comentários de um post.Como já era seguidora do perfil do restaurante, Russo não se atentou ao nome da conta, diferente da original, e enviou, também publicamente, seu número de celular.“Por sorte, a ficha caiu assim que eles avisaram que iam mandar o código de verificação. O pior não aconteceu.”Com 45.600 seguidores no Instagram, o restaurante de cozinha francesa Freddy também tem acumulado perfis falsos —eram 14 no fechamento da reportagem. Quinze anteriores já foram derrubados, mas a casa também precisou apelar à Justiça.“Dois clientes caíram no golpe e um deles nos ameaçou de processo, porque a tia chegou a transferir dinheiro para a quadrilha”, conta Juliana Mello, 32, responsável pelo marketing da casa.Às vezes, o golpista dá azar. Aconteceu com alguém que falseou o perfil do restaurante Le Jazz e, sem saber, mandou mensagem justamente para um amigo de Paulo Bitelman, um dos sócios.Quando entendeu que tinha sido descoberto, o suposto Gilberto assumiu seu papel: “Maluco o foco é o golpe se não for passar o zap me poupe (sic)”.De acordo com Gil Leite, 39, sócio do Le Jazz, os perfis falsos não são novidade, mas se multiplicaram de forma expressiva desde o início da pandemia. “Como os clientes passaram a usar mais os canais digitais para delivery, os golpistas devem ter enxergado uma oportunidade.”De março de 2020 para cá, a agência Mar Aberto, responsável pela gestão das redes sociais do Le Jazz, contou mais de 20 perfis falsos. Todos foram derrubados só com o preenchimento do formulário de denúncia. Mas a empresa não conseguiu, até hoje, obter o selo de verificação.“Tentamos várias vezes sem sucesso. Enviamos toda a documentação exigida, mas eles indeferem sem qualquer justificativa”, diz Lucas Terribili, da Mar Aberto.Segundo o Instagram, um dos requisitos para a concessão do selo é o perfil ser “notável”: a conta deve “representar pessoas, marcas ou entidades famosas e muito pesquisadas” e “aparecer em várias fontes de notícias”.Tais critérios, na opinião de Gil Leite, não ajudam empresas como a dele. “O Instagram deveria ter um sistema mais sério de certificação para se tornar mais seguro”, critica. Mais Irmã da chef Renata Vanzetto e responsável pelas redes sociais do restaurante Muquifo, Luiza Vanzetto, 29, inseriu o alerta “Perfil oficial e ÚNICO do Restaurante” na bio, texto que apresenta o estabelecimento no Instagram. Não adiantou.“Além de roubarem nossas fotos, os golpistas copiam o texto da bio e se apresentam como oficiais também. Dá até raiva. Alguns clientes acham que a culpa é nossa, já temos um protocolo de atendimento para essas situações. Os golpes são tão bem armados que até uma de nossas sócias investidoras caiu”, desabafa.A esperança de Vanzetto é que a nova lei nº 14.155, em vigor desde 27 de maio, faça diferença. Ela determina que aplicar golpes pelo Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp ou qualquer outro meio eletrônico é crime. A pena prevista é de até oito anos de prisão quando há prejuízo financeiro.Já o advogado Luiz Augusto D’Urso, presidente da Comissão de Cibersegurança e Dados Pessoais da Associação Comercial de São Paulo, não é tão otimista.Para ele, a lei é bem-vinda, mas a identificação e consequente condenação dos golpistas depende da ação do poder Judiciário e da polícia, ambos já sobrecarregados.“O Instagram é que deveria ter um canal de denúncias eficiente, para evitar que as questões fossem judicializadas. O Facebook só presta esse serviço de péssima qualidade porque tem o respaldo do Marco Civil da Internet. Ele determina que as plataformas só se tornam corresponsáveis a partir de uma ordem judicial.”Aos estabelecimentos que são vítimas de perfis falsos, D’Urso recomenda lavrar um boletim de ocorrência, que tem dupla função: pode gerar a instauração de um inquérito policial, para que o golpista seja identificado, e protege o restaurante no caso de eventuais processos, movidos por clientes que se sintam lesados.“Sugiro lavrar um BO para cada perfil falso. Pode ser feito de forma digital. Mesmo que seja preciso lavrar vários, o custo-benefício compensa.”Guilherme Farid, do Procon-SP, recomenda que os donos de estabelecimentos também façam a denúncia no órgão, que se responsabiliza por dar início à investigação, acionando a Divisão de Crimes Cibernéticos da Polícia Civil de São Paulo. Os consumidores que caírem no golpe do perfil falso, por sua vez, não devem deixar de registrar a reclamação no site do Procon-SP.“A partir do registro, nós notificamos a rede social e ela não pode mais se eximir da responsabilidade, sob risco de multa de até R$ 10 milhões. Há até a possibilidade de o consumidor exigir ressarcimento por danos materiais”, explica Farid.Procurado pela Folha, o Instagram, por meio de sua assessoria de imprensa, condicionou a entrevista ao conhecimento prévio do conteúdo da reportagem. Diante da negativa, só se pronunciou através da nota abaixo, assinada por “um porta-voz do Facebook”.“Fingir ser outra pessoa, marca ou negócio viola as Diretrizes da Comunidade do Instagram. Temos uma equipe dedicada para detectar e impedir esses tipos de golpes e encorajamos as pessoas a denunciarem quaisquer contas ou atividades suspeitas no Instagram por meio das nossas ferramentas de denúncia.” | comida |
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] | Depois da clara de ovo e das azeitonas, outros ingredientes agora “pulam” dos pratos para as coqueteleiras, e a opinião de chefs e bartenders sobre os ganhos com a experiência é unânime: personalidade, conhecimento e sustentabilidade.“A identidade se fortalece e a mensagem dos valores é passada naturalmente”, entende a chef Bel Coelho, do Cuia Café. “Valorizamos os biomas e a cultura alimentar brasileira.”No balcão do Cuia, a chefe de bar Larissa Fernandes prepara drinques como o Fitzgerald de Jambu (R$ 36) e o Sucupira (R$ 36), que leva louro. “Também usamos pimenta de cheiro, puxuri, buriti, noz moscada, cúrcuma, coentro, semente de cacau”, lista.Segundo Larissa explica, a troca vai além dos insumos, passando por técnicas como o ponto perfeito da geleia, e a lida com equipamentos, como as formas de usar o forno.No Jiquitaia, a dica é harmonizar doce com licor correspondente. Nos sabores de abacaxi tostado, cupuaçu e café (R$ 25), os digestivos criados pela sócia Nina Bastos são feitos com as caldas das sobremesas.“Essa sinergia é essencial para o restaurante”, comenta. Tanto que, para criar o Caju Amigo, Nina recorreu ao irmão, o chef Marcelo Corrêa Bastos.“Ele fez junto comigo a compota de caju, é um coquetel a quatro mãos”. É dele, ainda, o mix de temperos do drinque Jiquitaia’s Blood (R$ 32), com suco de tomate, gin e mix de temperos do chef.As bebidas da casa seguem o fluxo. A mesma calda de abacaxi adoça o novo Antiquado (R$ 32), o Maracatu (R$ 34) leva beterraba, e o Si Hay Coentro, Soy Contra! (R$ 36) —criado pelo consultor de bares Danilo Nakamura— soma xarope, além de folhas maceradas e inteiras da erva.“É um dos drinques que mais harmonizam com os pratos, porque é uma cozinha que usa muito o coentro”, diz o chefe de bar David Moraes, autor do Antiquado e do Maracatu.No bar do Komah, por sua vez, o kimchi (conserva coreana feita à base de hortaliças) e o khaenipp (folha de gergelim) protagonizam o Kimchi Mary (R$ 31) e o Khaenipp Sour (R$ 32), respectivamente.“O khaenipp é uma folha refrescante servida com a pancetta, e o kimchi veio da ideia do fermentado, do picante que o coreano gosta”, explica Marcos Vinicius Apolinário, idealizador da primeira carta autoral do restaurante.O atual chefe de bar, André Seiti, mantém a lógica e acaba de criar o Oh My Ghost (R$ 35), que leva vodka fat washing de óleo de gergelim.“Guarneço com cebolinha e grãos de gergelim torrado, remetendo à culinária típica”, detalha.O chef Paulo Shin dá carta branca e vê receptividade no cliente. “Uma vez que o garçom oferece um drink que é diferente de tudo que ele poderia ter tomado, a resposta que ele tem é ‘sim’!”, relata.A conexão bar-cozinha é mais profunda do que parece. “A maioria não sabe, mas está comendo caju fresco e desidratado, da infusão com gin”, conta o chefe de bar do Balaio IMS, Rafael Welbert.“Você consegue ser sustentável e ter essa troca de experiência”, diz.Enquanto o caju infusionado para o Gin Tônica do Sertão (R$ 32) e o Robert Cocktail (R$ 32) entra na moqueca vegana do chef Rodrigo Oliveira, os nibs de cacau do xarope viram acompanhamento do café pela chef confeiteira Patrícia Moryta —dela, vem o creme do fruto do Cerrado para o Pequiii (R$ 32).No Tujuína, do chef Ivan Ralston, a acidez do vinagre de maracujá dá o tom do Ginbugueiro (R$ 48), enquanto a untuosidade vem do óleo de avelã no Golden Hazelnut (R$ 32), e da manteiga no Noisette (R$ 42).“Foi com o Ivan que comecei a criar drinks que tivessem base na gastronomia”, lembra o bartender Maurício Barbosa, que já trabalhou com conservação em cera de abelha e sorvete em preparações.Ralston dá autonomia. “A gente tem equipamentos que um bar talvez não tenha, então é possível incorporar técnicas”, complementa.“A primeira pergunta que eu faço é: por que não?”, provoca a mixologista e pesquisadora Néli Pereira. Ela é incisiva sobre a ligação entre bar e cozinha: “É a sustentabilidade do planeta, do negócio e dos funcionários.” Néli relembra as experiências no Espaço Zebra —temporariamente fechado por conta da pandemia, mas com planos de reabrir já no próximo semestre—, onde conservas, picles, geleias e compotas viravam insumo para coquetéis e vice-versa.“A catuaba que sobrava da infusão ia pra cozinha e virava um chutney para a tábua de queijos”, conta.Quanto mais mergulha nesse universo, mais o carrinho de bar da Néli cresce, provando que é preciso “botar pra jogo” boas combinações ao abusar dos temperos, doces e molhos. “Quando estamos fazendo tucupi, um shot com cachaça sempre rola aqui em casa”, revela.Há muitos mixologistas dispostos a colocar esse conceito em prática, acredita Néli, e cabe aos chefs se abrir para a troca. “Eles têm muito a nos ensinar. O que não pode é transformar o bartender num replicador”, alerta.“É incorporar a coquetelaria como uma experiência de gastronomia. É o que as pessoas vão querer provar no pós-pandemia.” | comida |
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] | Comida global versus local, o fast e o slow, o prazer e a nutrição, a tecnologia e a ancestralidade, o campo e a mesa são algumas das tensões alimentares contemporâneas exploradas pelo jornalista Rafael Tonon em “As Revoluções da Comida”, lançado pela editora Todavia.A obra semeia provocações oportunas e urgentes, em um mundo em iminente esgotamento, em que homem e natureza estão cindidos e a indústria avança e obscurece a origem da nossa comida. O mesmo mundo, aliás, em que 20 milhões de adultos que vivem nos Estados Unidos acham que leite achocolatado vem de vacas marrons, segundo pesquisa à qual recorre o autor.Tonon constrói caminhos para reflexão —amparado por bibliografia robusta, estudos científicos, entrevistas com neurocientistas, filósofos, sociólogos, agricultores— e expressa, assim, a multidisciplinaridade da comida.Nos momentos em que aparece explicitamente nos relatos, como um repórter que viaja, investiga, come, entrevista, o autor fortalece o enredo. São trechos como o de sua conversa com o chef espanhol Andoni Luis Aduriz, que trabalha com acadêmicos para tentar compreender o que torna uma refeição em um restaurante inesquecível a longo prazo; ou do relato sobre quando provou minienguias vivas e sugou “um ‘mamilo’ feito com tartar de ostras colado a uma esfera de gelo”.Um dos méritos de Tonon está no talento de costurar histórias e ziguezaguear pelo tempo e pelo espaço. Ele menciona estudos sobre como a espécie humana evoluiu a partir do descobrimento do fogo e faz referência a robôs que podem eliminar a nossa necessidade de alimentação nos próximos 20 anos.Sua desenvoltura também está em como transita pelo mundo —e traz o Brasil ao epicentro em alguns bons momentos, como ao tratar de grupos de consumo coletivo, modelo que dá estabilidade aos produtores e torna os compradores coprodutores.Não deixa de mapear, no entanto, informações desse movimento nos Estados Unidos e na França, e alcança a Espanha ao contar a história dos irmãos valencianos donos de uma fazenda de laranjas orgânicas que passaram a disponibilizar as laranjeiras para adoção, com negociações online.Adiante, Tonon faz uma escavação na história do restaurante. Recupera sua origem em Paris, nos caldos restauradores para enfermos; passeia por descobertas arqueológicas mais recentes; e desemboca no restaurante como experiência inesquecível, em que inovar é mais importante que satisfazer.O jornalista avança ao trazer pesquisas que sinalizam o crescimento do número de pessoas que comem sozinhas; informações sobre como as redes sociais interferem na forma como nos relacionamos com a comida ou sobre a invenção do Soylent, um substituto de refeições que atende às necessidades bioquímicas do corpo.Fomenta, assim, a reflexão sobre fenômenos como os das fazendas urbanas, movidas por tecnologia ultramoderna e que prometem ser o futuro da agricultura; o dos molhos de tomate enlatados, que se vendem como italianos, mas são feitos com frutos da China; ou o do desaparecimento de populações inteiras de anfíbios em um processo disparado pelo capricho gastronômico de comer rãs.Diferentes perspectivas perpassam a obra —a comida como nutrição, como prazer, como elo social ou como ato político. Se, por um lado, esses olhares dão vigor e longevidade ao livro, este incorre em alguns generalismos imprudentes.Os millennials são apresentados, por exemplo, como uma geração que se preocupa com o que come, cozinha cada vez mais e gasta mesada em restaurantes. Quem são essas pessoas, em um mundo em que a pobreza se alastra e a fortuna se concentra cada vez mais?Idem para quando declara que o restaurante se tornou “o luxo possível para (quase) todos”. Ele próprio diz, em seguida, para “todo homem com suas notas na carteira”.O mesmo vale para a ideia de que “nove em cada dez grandes cozinheiros” foram influenciados por Dan Barber, chef norte-americano, ativista, que constrói seus pratos guiado pelo sabor e pela paisagem na qual está inserido. Essa colocação faz sentido se o recorte for uma nata de superchefs, mas certamente é cedo para sugerir que esse pensamento tenha contaminado a maioria.Se tomarmos essas considerações como estímulos para refletir, nos beneficiaremos do que há de melhor no livro. Rafael Tonon imprime contorno ensaístico à obra e mergulha nas transformações que a alimentação sofreu nos últimos 50 anos.Ele cerca o tema com coesão e provoca o leitor a compreender que suas escolhas à mesa abatem o mundo. Há que sair da ignorância e da passividade. | comida |
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] | O café arábica, até hoje considerado sinônimo de alta qualidade, não está mais sozinho.No dia 27 de abril, um lote de 250 sacas de café conilon, variedade da espécie canéfora produzida pela Família Venturim, do Espírito Santo, recebeu o certificado inédito pela Associação Brasileira de Cafés Especiais (BSCA) —até hoje, só os da espécie arábica tinham merecido a certificação.No dia último dia 1º, o canéfora rompeu outra barreira. O Instituto Nacional da Propriedade Industrial (INPI) concedeu o registro de Denominação de Origem Matas de Rondônia, também inédito para grãos da espécie, aos cafés robusta produzidos em 15 municípios da região amazônica.Comumente associado a cafés de baixa qualidade, destinados sobretudo à indústria de solúveis, o canéfora começou a mudar de cara em 2007, quando Lucas Venturim, 39, assumiu com o irmão, Isaac, a fazenda da família, localizada em São Gabriel da Palha (ES).“Comecei a visitar produtores de arábica especial para entender o que faziam de diferente, e era muita coisa. Aplicamos esse conhecimento aqui sem saber se daria certo, nem se teríamos mercado”, lembra.Onze anos depois, em 2018, os Venturim colheram um lote que obteve 90 pontos pelo método de avaliação da Specialty Coffee Association (SC) —para ser considerado especial, a pontuação mínima exigida é 80.Formalmente associados à BSCA, primeira associação no mundo a abrir as portas a produtores de canéfora, os irmãos foram então em busca de clientes.Já em 2019, fizeram as primeiras exportações para a Rússia e a Alemanha —metade da produção atual vai para o mercado externo.Eles continuaram fornecendo seu conilon à indústria, mas com outro status. Vem de suas lavouras, por exemplo, o café premium Nescafé Origens do Brasil Pontões Capixabas.O restante da produção vai para o e-commerce próprio ou para cafeterias como o Coffee Lab, da barista Isabela Raposeiras, e a rede Santo Grão, onde é comercializado com o nome 0% Arábica. O primeiro lote certificado foi para a cafeteria Be Brave Coffee, em Sorocaba, no interior paulista.“Ainda há muito trabalho de convencimento a fazer, mas o mercado está mais consolidado, temos clientes pulverizados pelo Brasil. A entrada das grandes marcas ajuda a popularizar o conilon entre o público não especializado, que não tem moedor em casa”, aposta Venturim.Bem longe dali, em Rondônia, o otimismo também toma conta dos produtores de café canéfora.Vice-presidente da Cooperativa de Agricultores Familiares da Amazônia (Lacoop), Leandro Dias Martins, 37, foi pioneiro na região e conseguiu disseminar a cultura do robusta, outra variedade do canéfora.Concentradas na região oeste do estado, as 25 propriedades cooperadas são predominantemente familiares, com apenas quatro hectares em média.Todas estão investindo em estufas, terreiros de secagem suspensos e na técnica de fermentação induzida, que aumenta a complexidade aromática.“Ganhamos concursos na Associação Brasileira da Indústria de Café e já começamos a mandar amostras para grandes indústrias de outros países. Dizem que nosso robusta supera o do Vietnã e está em pé de igualdade com o indiano e o indonésio”, orgulha-se Martins.No Brasil, parte desses cafés amazônicos premiados acaba de chegar ao mercado com a nova marca Remmo, nas versões em grãos e em cápsulas, vendidas pela Companhia dos Fermentados.É só um começo —a produção de canéfora de alta qualidade promete deslanchar no Brasil.Com 6.300 associados, sendo 80% de propriedades familiares, a Cooperativa Agrária de Cafeicultores de São Gabriel da Palha firmou convênio como o Instituto Federal do Espírito Santo para a realização de cursos de capacitação.“É só uma questão de virar a chave e produzir de outro jeito”, acredita o presidente da cooperativa, Luiz Carlos Bastianello, 58.O investimento em irrigação e maquinário é alto, mas a produtividade dobra, assim como o lucro —Venturim revela que já vendeu microlotes por preço três vezes mais alto do que a tabela.Terceira geração de produtores do município de Pinheiros (ES), Thiago Orletti, 38, tem 1.800 hectares plantados com cafés conilon. Das 100 mil sacas anuais que produz, apenas 5.000 são classificadas como cafés especiais.Sem marca própria, os lotes são vendidos a indústrias e pequenas cafeterias, mas Orletti vê futuro no segmento e não esconde o entusiasmo.“Muita gente torce o nariz para o conilon porque não conhece os novos cafés fermentados, que proporcionam uma explosão de aromas. Queremos reforçar nossa identidade de cafés produzidos no nível do mar. É uma bebida jovem de beira da praia, que não tem nada a ver com montanha”, define o produtor.Outra característica do canéfora que pode atrair o consumidor jovem é a concentração de cafeína, até 50% maior comparada a dos cafés da espécie arábica.Já o amargor pronunciado ficou no passado, explica Isabela Raposeiras. Mais “Muita gente espera um café amargo, com notas de amendoim e terra molhada, mas se surpreende. O último lote de conilon capixaba que vendi, da Família Venturim, estava especialmente frutado”, diz a barista, que comercializou o pacote de 250 gamas a R$ 50, mesmo preço dos melhores arábicas disponíveis na cafeteria.A quebra do paradigma entre os coffee lovers pode até demorar, avalia Giuliana Bastos, uma das criadoras da São Paulo Coffee Fest.Segundo ela, a supremacia do arábica vem sendo reforçada há mais de uma década e, para que o público mude sua percepção, leva tempo. Mas ela acredita que o movimento já começou.“Quem frequenta cafeterias está experimentando canéforas especiais e ficando encantado. São cafés bem cuidados, com notas sensoriais surpreendentes de frutas vermelhas, especiarias, uísque e até florais. Esse público já foi picado.” | comida |
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] | Há ocupações que requerem humildade e generosidade, capacidade de se dar ao outro. Em Mari Hirata, que morreu de câncer aos 61 anos neste domingo (30) em Tóquio, estas qualidades tanto abundavam que ela dedicou a vida a cozinhar e a ensinar —ofícios que requerem esta entrega, que era sua marca.Mari era para mim uma irmã querida. Mesmo tendo morado em países diferentes por quase todos esses mais de quarenta anos de convivência, conseguimos nos manter unidos com intimidade e cumplicidade.Tínhamos encontros quase sempre breves pelo mundo, em meio a nossas rotinas tumultuadas, mas eram sagrados.Eu a visitava em Paris ou Tóquio (e ela, a minha casa em São Paulo, às vezes às escondidas, para pernoitar longe das inúmeras solicitações); desbravávamos restaurantes em rápidos assaltos a Copenhagen ou Kyoto ou à Auvergne francesa; e cozinhávamos juntos onde houvesse uma cozinha disponível, em qualquer lugar do planeta.Suas aventuras além-mar começaram quando, aos 20 anos, estudante de jornalismo (dedicada a diagramação, que exercia no jornal trotskista O Trabalho, que eu editava na época), em 1980 resolveu fazer um curso desta especialidade em Paris.Entre as aulas, começou a tomar aulas de doces, de pães... e foi ficando. Voltou três anos depois como chef-pâtissière do hotel Caesar Park em São Paulo, mas frustrou-se ao perceber que seus doces franceses, leves e pouco açucarados, não batiam com o gosto dominante daqui.Alçou asas novamente: na virada da década de 1990 foi para o Japão conhecer a cerimônia do chá e outras delicadezas que intuía na convivência com uma família (pai nissei, o deputado João Sussumo Hirata, mãe japonesa de nobre estirpe, Cecília) com incrível sofisticação no paladar e habilidades na cozinha.O começo lá foi difícil —trabalhava de graça para aprender. Até que, procurando melhor oportunidade, conseguiu um emprego de verdade. E não em qualquer lugar: foi na tradicional Toraya, confeitaria oficial da família imperial, tocada pela 17ª geração da mesma família.Ali mergulhou na sofisticação da alta gastronomia japonesa, e ainda por cima conheceu o confeiteiro Hisao Sato, que se tornou seu marido e pai de seus dois filhos.Em meados da década de 1990, Sato foi enviado a Paris para a abertura do recém-inaugurado Café Toraya.Para lá se mudaram o casal e os filhos. Mari voltaria às suas origens de aprendizado, aprofundando-o (tornou-se, por exemplo, brilhante aluna da Le Cordon Bleu) e aplicando-o nos restaurantes em que trabalhou, mas onde também aprendia (sua melhor memória de aprender trabalhando foi dos tempos do L'Arpège, de Alain Passard, que ela considerava um gênio).Passado o período de implantação do Café, voltaram todos para Tóquio em 2001. E, nos últimos vinte anos, Mari entregou-se a uma rotina incessante.Desde 1995, quando a convidei para dar aulas no evento Boa Mesa em São Paulo, ela começou a despontar no Brasil como grande professora (além de cozinheira para eventos).Começou a vir regularmente para dar aulas, para grupos cada vez mais numerosos, enquanto tinha uma legião de alunos fãs no Japão. Tanto os de lá quanto os de cá organizavam viagens de aprendizado para diferentes cantos do mundo, levando Mari como tutora e fonte de inspiração: ela ensinava sushis, foie gras, moquecas, e no seu repertório imenso não faltavam as doçarias que ela executava com precisão.Além disso, seu jeito era tão cativante que terminava trabalhando também para receber turistas no Japão —somente conhecidos, ou indicados por estes. Nos passeios por parques e museus, nas visitas a mercados e restaurantes, recebia a todos com o mesmo sorriso largo de olhos fechados, fossem jovens cozinheiros, fossem celebridades do jet-set mundial, fossem estudantes ou banqueiros. Mari também escreveu livros e foi colunista da Revista da Folha. Pela Publifolha, lançou "Minhas Receitas Japonesas"; pela BEĨ, "Mari Hirata Sensei", com Haydée Belda.A generosidade de Mari era só comparável a seu metódico afinco na cozinha, e à alegria de viver (e comer e beber). Generosidade tamanha que enfrentou os últimos nove meses no maior recolhimento, pois não quis que os amigos se condoessem por meses com sua dor, que eu compartilhei e pela qual não me conformo.Morreu em casa, em Tóquio, ao lado do marido Hisao e dos filhos Shohei e Anna. Deixa ainda seis irmãos. E este mundo de mortes estúpidas aos milhares, de genocidas ainda impunes, ficou agora ainda mais pobre sem ela. | comida |
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] | O crítico de vinhos Jorge Carrara (1947-2021), morto na terça-feira (25), era um argentino com interessantes vicissitudes. Fugia de estereótipos. Adorava São Paulo, falava um português corretíssimo, quase sem sotaque, e não tinha o menor nacionalismo em relação aos vinhos argentinos.Enquanto viveu em Buenos Aires, sua cidade natal, só conhecia os vinhos do país, o que ali é natural. Mas mudou ao morar no Brasil —onde, claro, não havia chauvinismo vinícola, aberto aos sabores de todo o mundo, mesmo numa época de precárias importações.Carrara trabalhava na IBM, quando, desgostoso com a situação do seu país na época, pediu transferência para São Paulo em 1976.Os trâmites levaram a outro marco em sua vida: voltando para a Argentina de uma viagem em que preparava sua vinda, conheceu no avião uma turista brasileira, Silavia Bergman, com quem iniciou uma relação amorosa que duraria até o fim da vida.Carrara deixou a faculdade de engenharia quando estava na IBM da Argentina. No Brasil, aposentou-se na empresa depois de trabalhar com hardware e depois com software.Quando chegou aqui descobriu uma entidade de enófilos —a Sociedade Brasileira de Amigos do Vinho— à qual se filiou, em 1984, para ampliar seus conhecimentos. Foi onde depois o conheci —eu principiante assistindo aulas, ele já professor. Quando a Folha lançou o pioneiro caderno Comida, eu o convidei como colunista de vinhos. Por décadas, mesmo quando as páginas de gastronomia mudavam de tamanho ou de lugar, Carrara se adaptava sem sobressaltos a cada novo formato da coluna.Chegou a ter uma adega com três mil garrafas de vinho, uma extravagância que há cerca de 20 anos leiloou revertendo o dinheiro para filantropia.Atualmente escrevia para a revista Prazeres da Mesa, até o diagnóstico de câncer na garganta que o levou ao hospital em março, para tratamentos que não lograram efeito.Jorge Carrara tornou-se o mais preciso, curioso, arguto —e modesto— crítico de vinhos do país. Sem arrogância ou preconceito, era aberto a todo bom vinho independente da origem ou preço. Era também inteligente e ótimo de conversa —mesmo aquelas que, vizinhos, encetávamos em encontros fortuitos no supermercado.Jorge (acho que eu era dos poucos a chamá-lo assim) partiu aos 73 anos e deixa Silavia, sua mulher, e a nós, órfãos de sua inteligência e sábio humor. | comida |
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] | O gado invadiu o Palácio da Alvorada com alarde na semana passada. Mais precisamente, o gado japonês wagyu —materializado numa picanha de R$ 1.799,99/kg, que deu as caras no churrasco presidencial de Dia das Mães.O valor equivale a 12 vezes o auxílio emergencial pago em 2021 pelo governo para pessoas sem dependentes. Parece um despropósito gastar tanto num bife.Pode ser difícil justificar a despesa, mas o preço da carne se explica pelo altíssimo custo de produção e pela lógica particular que regula o preço dos artigos de luxo.Para começar, os quase R$ 1.800 cobrados pelo Frigorífico Goiás —que chegou a embalar alguns nacos de bife sob o rótulo “Picanha Mito”— são extorsivos sob qualquer aspecto.A loja virtual Intermezzo, de São Paulo, vende sua peça mais cara, um contrafilé de wagyu puro-sangue, a R$ 829/kg; a picanha está a R$ 410/kg.A carne wagyu é valorizadíssima devido ao alto grau de marmoreio —presença de gordura entremeada na fibra muscular, fator determinante para sabor e maciez. Só que, para produzir toda essa gordura, o boi precisa comer muito. Muito, muito mesmo.“É uma raça com baixa eficiência de campo”, afirma o veterinário Gelson Feijó, pesquisador em ciência da carne da Embrapa Gado de Corte.Em termos menos técnicos: para atingir o ponto de abate, um animal wagyu demanda muito mais ração do que um nelore ou um angus.“A suplementação alimentar começa antes mesmo de o bezerro nascer”, diz George Gottheiner, produtor de carne wagyu na Fazenda Bosque Belo.“No último terço da prenhez, a vaca recebe suplemento de ração para que o filhote tenha predisposição ao marmoreio”, completa.A superalimentação prossegue por toda a vida do animal, até o confinamento —etapa final da criação do gado de corte, em que o bovino é transferido do pasto para a engorda.“Enquanto um nelore passa 90 dias confinado, o wagyu de raça pura precisa de pelo menos 250 dias”, conta o produtor George. Mais Raça, para a denominação wagyu, é um termo tão impreciso quanto universalmente empregado.“A palavra ‘gyu’ significa ‘gado’, e o prefixo ‘wa’ quer dizer ‘do Japão’ ”, diz Telma Shiraishi, chef do restaurante Aizomê. Logo, wagyu se refere a todo boi de origem japonesa.A pecuária bovina requer espaço e muita água —ambos escassos no Japão— para a criação em larga escala. Assim, os japoneses sempre trataram a carne como um alimento especial, de produção limitadíssima e caprichada em nível nipônico.Os bois do Japão quase não se locomovem. Eles passam a vida em um cercadinho, a comer. “Cada região aprimorou os rebanhos a seu modo”, ensina Telma.Há pelo menos quatro raças bovinas produtoras de carne wagyu. Em comum, todas são conhecidas pelo marmoreio.Segundo a chef, os japoneses conferem status de segredo industrial aos métodos de criação. “A exportação de touros e sêmen é proibida”, diz. “O que existe no resto do mundo veio por contrabando.”O fazendeiro George diz que os bois chegaram primeiro aos Estados Unidos, onde a genética wagyu foi replicada, multiplicada e repassada a outros países. John, pai de George, foi um dos pioneiros da criação desse gado no Brasil, ainda nos anos 1990.“Os japoneses alegam que não existe wagyu fora do Japão”, afirma George, “pois não há garantia da pureza genética desses animais.” É um argumento forte, até porque os cruzamentos com outras raças são praxe —no Brasil e em grandes rebanhos como EUA e Austrália.A miscigenação preserva boa parte das características da carne wagyu e resulta em animais que engordam mais facilmente. “Criar wagyu puro-sangue é inviável economicamente no Brasil”, diz o veterinário Gelson, da Embrapa.George insiste nesse nicho, mas com cautela: “De 520 cabeças do meu rebanho, só 70 não têm cruzamento.”É uma reserva muito especial para um público muito específico, que pode e quer pagar, pela carne, valores incompatíveis com um churrasco de domingo.No Japão, por sinal, a carne também é cara. “Lá não existe essa coisa de um boi inteiro no prato”, diz Telma. Além do preço, a cultura alimentar leva ao comedimento. “O eixo da refeição não está na proteína, ela é um complemento.”Segundo a chef, duas formas comuns de consumo do wagyu no Japão são o sashimi e o yakiniku —“churrasco japonês”, tiras de carne assadas à mesa em restaurantes especializados.Na opinião de Telma, não faz sentido comer essa carne em grandes quantidades.“Ela é muito gordurosa, pesada, parece um bloco de manteiga.” O churrasqueiro Tom Penafiel, da Chimichurri Parrilla, concorda: “Fica enjoativo e, se bobear, tem mais gordura do que carne.”Tom, contudo, às vezes serve wagyu em sua churrascaria-boteco argentina. “Eu busco cortes pouco comuns, mais baratos e que são duros em animais de outras raças.”Quando encontra para comprar, prepara na brasa a aranha da alcatra —recorte da região pélvica, apenas duas peças de mais ou menos 300 gramas por animal.Carnes extraídas da paleta e do acém podem custar menos de R$ 100 por quilo. Elas são a saída para quem quer provar wagyu sem empenhar as joias de família.Mesmo George Gottheiner, entusiasta do churrasco de wagyu, diz que os cortes menos famosos são os melhores. “Picanha é o que eu menos recomendo”, afirma. “Coxão duro fica fabuloso e já fiz churrasco até com o músculo, surpreendentemente macio.”Na fazenda em Boituva (SP), George põe música clássica para tocar para os animais. Ele se inspira nos criadores japoneses, que adotam práticas insólitas como dar cerveja e fazer massagem nos bois.Isso melhora a carne? “Pode até ser coincidência, mas a produção decaiu quando meu aparelho de som quebrou”, argumenta George. “Essas coisas são como rezar: ou você acredita ou não”, diz o veterinário Gelson.De qualquer maneira, Beethoven, cerveja e shiatsu agregam valor impalpável à carne dos bois wagyu. “O consumidor também paga pela marca, pela exclusividade”, acredita Gelson.O pesquisador da Embrapa faz uma comparação com o mercado da moda.“Você compra uma calça jeans de R$ 50 no comércio popular e outra de R$ 500 na butique do shopping. O produto caro tem acabamento melhor, mas o preço aumenta mais do que o custo e a qualidade. Se você for olhar as etiquetas, as duas calças são feitas com o mesmo brim.” | comida |
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] | O francês Alain Ducasse, o chef com maior número de estrelas do guia Michelin no mundo, deixará o comando do restaurante do hotel Plaza Athénée em Paris após 30 de junho. Este é o seu restaurante mais conhecido, mas atualmente é somente um dos quatro onde ele tem a cotação máxima do guia.A notícia foi divulgada nesta segunda (17) pelo grupo Dorchester, dono do hotel.A novidade não significa, porém, uma ruptura com o grupo. Ducasse, 64, segue à frente de dois outros restaurantes da mesma rede hoteleira, ambos com cotação máxima do guia Michelin: o do hotel Dorchester, em Londres, e o do hotel Le Meurice, em Paris.O outro três-estrelas do chef fica em Monte Carlo: é o Le Louis 15, no Hotel de Paris, que pertence ao príncipe de Mônaco. A presença de Ducasse, há 21 anos, no Plaza Athénée, do qual agora se despede, foi emblemática. Ele era o mais jovem chef a conquistar as três estrelas do guia Michelin, que ostentava no Le Louis 15, quando abriu seu primeiro restaurante em Paris, em 1996.O conservador guia viu-se ante um impasse: nunca atribuíra antes a cotação máxima a dois restaurantes do mesmo chef (ante o dogma de que para ter três estrelas, o chef deveria estar em tempo integral em sua cozinha, o que não era possível tendo dois restaurantes, e em cidades diferentes). Sendo assim, no primeiro ano em Paris (onde inicialmente instalou-se no emblemático ponto deixado por Joël Robuchon, que anunciara sua aposentadoria), Ducasse ganhou as três estrelas —mas ao mesmo tempo foi rebaixado a duas em Mônaco.Foi preciso mais um ano para que o Michelin se rendesse à evidência de que ambos os restaurantes atingiam a excelência requerida pelos padrões do guia. Então, Ducasse mudou-se, com todas as glórias, para o requintado salão do Plaza Athénée no ano 2000. Mas, recentemente, assumiu também a cozinha do Le Meurice, um igualmente suntuoso "hotel-palácio" parisiense, também do mesmo grupo, também com três estrelas Michelin.O comunicado do Dorchester não esclarece os motivos da decisão, mas parece claro que o perigo de uma redundância de propostas na mesma cidade deve ter pesado. | comida |
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] | Quem encara os vinhos em lata ou em caixas bag-in-box como modismo passageiro precisa urgentemente rever o conceito. A tendência, que começou pela mão das novidadeiras startups e já está consolidada no exterior, começa a ser adotada por tradicionais vinícolas brasileiras —e promete ter vindo para ficar.Em outubro de 2020, a .Nero, marca da centenária Casa Valduga, pôs no mercado a linha de frisantes enlatados Becas, com um rosé, um branco e um moscato. As latinhas de 269 mililitros são vendidas em e-commerces e grandes redes de varejo por R$ 17 em média.Em março de 2021, foi a vez da Guatambu, localizada na região da Campanha Gaúcha, lançar os vinhos Mysterius —o prosecco brut Intuição e o tinto seco Veraz. Com 310 mililitros, as latas custam R$ 35 na loja online da vinícola.A intenção de ambas não é convencer os bebedores mais conservadores a trocar a garrafa pela lata. Pelo contrário. “É um produto novo para outro público. Queremos conquistar pessoas jovens, que gostam de beber vinho na piscina, na festa ou na praia”, recita Valter José Pötter, segunda geração à frente da Guatambu.Serviram de estímulo às duas vinícolas decanas o sucesso que as startups já vinham alcançando com os vinhos em lata. O primeiro lote de 15 mil latinhas da Lovin’Wine, lançado em agosto de 2020, duraria um semestre nas contas do sócio João Paulo Sattamini. Esgotou-se em um mês, mesmo com as vendas limitadas ao e-commerce próprio.Os dois espumantes, um branco e um rosé, assim como o rosé tranquilo, são blends produzidos com exclusividade pela Casa Perini, de Farroupilha, na Serra Gaúcha. O pack com quatro unidades de 269 mililitros custa R$ 79,60 na Amazon.O isolamento social imposto pelo coronavírus, na opinião de Sattamini, não atrapalhou as vendas e ainda ajudou. “A pandemia fez aumentar o consumo em casa e o vinho em lata é melhor para se beber sozinho”, opina.De fato, o brasileiro nunca bebeu tanto vinho. O consumo, em 2020, cresceu 18,4% segundo a Organização Internacional da Vinha e do Vinho (OIV). Significa que cada brasileiro adulto bebeu, em média, 2,6 litros nesse período.A praticidade é também o argumento de Adriano Santucci, da Fabenne, para explicar o crescimento de 315% que a empresa alcançou em 2020.Seus vinhos são distribuídos em embalagens bag-in-box de 3 litros (R$ 99) —como a bebida é acondicionada em um dispenser hermeticamente fechado, sem contato com o ar, a qualidade se mantém por até 30 dias.São três “rótulos”, um branco, um tinto e um rosé, produzidos pela Cooperativa Vinícola São João, também de Farroupilha. “Dá para beber um pouquinho por dia, sem que o vinho se deteriore, como acontece à garrafa aberta na geladeira”, diz Santucci. O bag-in-box não é novidade no Brasil, mas nunca emplacou de verdade, porque gerava desconfiança entre consumidores conservadores. A própria Fabenne, fundada em 2018, apostou inicialmente só nos restaurantes. Foi a pandemia que obrigou Santucci a recomeçar do zero.“Mudamos o tom para falar com o consumidor final mais jovem, fizemos um paralelo com as cervejas especiais e conseguimos quebrar a resistência”, diz.Lançada oficialmente em setembro de 2020, a Vinho 22 não inovou na embalagem. Já a forma de vender seus rótulos e conquistar o consumidor passa longe das convenções.Começa com o nome, inspirado na Semana de Arte Moderna de 1922, e segue com o divertido material informativo: os dados sobre os vinhos são fornecidos no livreto “Guia de simplificação da vida com atividades simples para quem não aguenta mais complicações”.Sócio da Vinho 22, Guilherme Melo escolheu a vinícola-boutique Lídio Carraro, do Vale dos Vinhedos, para fornecer os vinhos exclusivos: um rosé Pinot Noir (R$ 65) e um Chardonnay (R$ 55) na linha 22, além de um Merlot (R$ 105), um Chardonnay (R$ 100) e um rosé Pinot Noir (R$ 110) na linha premium Tarsila, cujos rótulos estampam quadros de Tarsila do Amaral.Para Melo, dois fatores são decisivos na hora de conquistar o público jovem: informação descomplicada e preço.“Nosso modelo de vendas é 100% digital em e-commerce próprio. Ao eliminar intermediários, reduzimos o preço final, remuneramos melhor o produtor e estimulamos a produção nacional”, defende.Duas características dessa nova geração de vinhos saltam aos olhos. A primeira é a preferência pelos canais de venda digitais —mesmo as marcas que já chegaram aos supermercados e empórios têm forte presença em lojas online, sejam elas próprias ou marketplaces.Outro ponto em comum: a predominância de brancos, espumantes e rosés.Sócia da Bliss, que desde 2019 vende vinhos em lata produzidos pela vinícola Santa Bárbara, de Garibaldi (RS), a gaúcha Priscila Simon explica o porquê.“O vinho tinto é mais relacionado a rituais de consumo. Envolve conceitos como tradição, formalidade e status e atinge a faixa etária acima dos 35 anos. Já os brancos, rosés e espumantes têm a ver com o Brasil do calor, da diversidade e da modernidade. Com eles, conquistamos consumidores a partir dos 18 anos.”A juventude no alvo das vinícolas não está necessariamente no RG. Uma das influencers contratadas para fazer propaganda dos vinhos em lata Somm é Maria Cardoso, 101 anos, famosa desde que divulgou o currículo para conseguir um emprego e poder comprar seus vinhos sem depender de ninguém.“Meus consumidores são uma galera urbana, moderna e aberta a novidades. Inicialmente, eles têm de 25 a 35 anos, mas queremos atingir outras faixas etárias com o mesmo perfil”, diz Diogo Cortez, que lançou a marca em janeiro de 2021.Os vinhos da Somm —um tinto, um rosé, um branco e um frisante branco— têm a assinatura da vinícola Miolo e são os mais baratos entre as latinhas: R$ 9,90 a unidade de 269 mililitros.Como a maioria dos concorrentes, se enquadram na categoria dos vinhos de bom custo-benefício, para consumo no dia a dia. São bebidas jovens, que não entregam grande complexidade e não foram feitas para envelhecer.As exceções são as linhas Mysterius e Vinho 22, que sobressaem em termos de qualidade —não por acaso, são os que mais pesam no bolso.Na opinião do consultor Marcio Marson, fundador da Pró-Vinho, entidade que tem como objetivo estimular o consumo da bebida no país, a nova roupagem dos vinhos nacionais segue uma tendência mundial.Faz mais de uma década, segundo Marson, que os vitivinicultores europeus e americanos entenderam que a fórmula para vender mais é despertar o interesse dos jovens.“O consumidor tradicional pode até torcer o nariz, mas as novas embalagens são a saída para o vinho brasileiro.” | comida |
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] | Não aguentava mais ouvir falar em air fryer e, preciso admitir, sentia-me excluído. Aparentemente, eu era a única pessoa cozinhante do Brasil a nunca ter operado o eletrodoméstico favorito dos confinados na pandemia.As vendas do aparelho cresceram 22% em 2020, ano em que a economia brasileira murchou 4,1%. Blogueiros, influencers e anônimos usaram as redes sociais para louvar os predicados da máquina que, em tese, frita sem óleo.Cheguei atrasado, mas quis pegar um assento com janela: consegui uma air fryer (gentil empréstimo do fabricante Midea) e conduzi duas semanas de testes culinários intensos.Quanto ao resultado, uma notícia boa e outra ruim. Vamos primeiro à má notícia, como é de praxe: air fryer não frita coisa alguma. É um forno elétrico e, como qualquer forno, assa os alimentos. Fritura sem óleo é uma fraude conceitual.A boa notícia é que, superada a raiva pelo engodo, você terá um eletrodoméstico formidável.A air fryer faz jus ao hype. Ela estica os horizontes da cozinha doméstica e substitui com vantagem o forno convencional, o micro-ondas e até o fogão –a depender da preparação, que fique claro.O aparelho é campeão em três categorias: aquecer, assar e desidratar, sempre trabalhando com alimentos de pouca umidade e em porções comedidas.A despeito disso tudo, a comida que vem automaticamente à cabeça com a palavra “fritadeira” (estampada na caixa da air fryer) é: batata frita. A máquina, embora não frite necas, faz um bom serviço com a batatinha.Eu era negacionista. Só fui dar pelota para a air fryer quando me disseram que a coisa poderia ressuscitar batatas fritas de delivery. Elas chegam invariavelmente mortas: o vapor liberado pelo miolo quente, dentro da caixa de entrega, amolece a casquinha da fritura.Por isso, muitas hamburguerias optam por batatas chips ou palitos muito finos –crocantes e secos por completo, sem o interior cremoso das boas fritas.Para o teste, escolhi as batatas do Frevo da rua Augusta –desde 1956, segundo a logomarca–, velhas conhecidas da velha guarda. Chegaram como eu as esperava, murchas, encharcadas e frias.Alguns minutos na air fryer e, minha gente, o milagre se consumou: batatas fritas como se tivessem viajado da fritadeira ao balcão. O segundo experimento batatal envolveu batatas cruas cortadas em palitos finos, enxaguadas para perder o excesso de amido, secas em calor baixo na própria air fryer e depois submetidas a dez ou 15 minutos de temperatura máxima, banhadas em pouco óleo. Obtive as melhores batatinhas assadas da vida, incontestavelmente não-fritas.Em coisa de dez minutos, xazam!, você tem um cesto cheio de batatas idênticas às da praça de alimentação do shopping. Para famílias que prezam tal negócio, a air fryer tem mais serventia do que o micro-ondas.O mecanismo da air fryer é um prodígio da baixa tecnologia. Ele consiste em hélices que giram na direção de uma resistência aquecida, e o ar quente circula no compartimento onde fica o alimento. Grosso modo, é como um secador de cabelo soprando continuamente numa caixa fechada.“A diferença é que o secador se alimenta com o ar externo”, corrige-me João Brasil Lima, professor do Instituto Mauá de Tecnologia. “Na air fryer, o ar aquecido retorna à ventoinha, o que reduz a perda de energia e aumenta a eficiência do aparelho.”Apesar do formato de fritadeira –uma bacia vazada com alça remete aos cestos de trama quadriculada que fritam batatas e coxinhas em óleo pelando–, a air fryer é um pequeno forno de convecção. Este, em versões maiores e mais sofisticadas, um brinquedo muito prezado na gastronomia profissional.Parênteses para recordar física do ensino médio. Convecção é uma das formas de propagação do calor. As outras duas são condução (contato) e radiação (por ondas, sem a necessidade de um meio gasoso ou líquido).Elas podem agir isoladamente –o calor do Sol chega à Terra por radiação, pelo vácuo– ou em conjunto, como na maioria dos fornos.Na convecção, o calor provoca movimentos cíclicos em um meio fluido –água, óleo ou até magma. Fiquemos com o ar dos fornos. O gás aquecido fica leve, sobe, resfria, fica pesado, desce e se aquece de novo. É algo que ocorre naturalmente, mas os chamados fornos de convecção forçam a barra com hélices de ventilador.Os modelos convencionais têm a ventoinha no fundo do forno; a air fryer lufa por cima. Empurra o ar quente para baixo antes do resfriamento, aumenta a temperatura da câmara e torna o cozimento mais rápido.“Quanto menor a caixa da air fryer, mais eficiente”, diz o professor Brasil Lima. Espaços maiores favorecem a dispersão do calor, e aí jaz uma das fraquezas do aparelho: não interessa o tamanho da família, ele só prepara um pouco de comida por vez.Mas nada é perfeito, né?A air fryer é excelente para aquecer pizza, pão, pão de queijo, empadinha, salgados e frituras em geral. É muito boa para assar batatas, pães de massa firme e pizza. Não consegui, em duas semanas, preparar um churrasco que estivesse tostado por fora e malpassado por dentro —falha minha, talvez.O efeito é curioso no bife à milanesa e outros empanados: embora seja patente que a comida está assada, ela fica crocante e seca. A praticidade e o serviço limpo compensam a perda do tchan que só o óleo tem.Por falar em seco, um predicado pouco explorado da air fryer é a desidratação. Com a regulagem na temperatura baixa, é fácil preparar tomates secos e fazer passas com frutas. Deixa lá e esquece por horas.Não recomendo a traquitana para quaisquer comidas que precisem de uma cumbuca para conter o líquido: o lance da air fryer é o vento infernal a lamber o contorno de cada pedaço de alimento.Ainda assim, uma pesquisa na internet vai mostrar receitas de arroz, de pudim, de brigadeiro, de lasanha na air fryer. Dá pra fazer, é claro. Assim como dá para cozinhar feijão no micro-ondas e assar um porco numa fogueira no meio da sala.Com o perdão do óbvio, melhor usar cada ferramenta para aquilo que ela faz melhor. E a air fryer é uma ferramenta bem topzera.Nome: Midea 5,5 LCapacidade: 5,5 litrosPotência: 1.700 WQuanto: R$ 679Onde: mideastore.com.brNome: Philips Walita VivaCapacidade: 2,2 litrosPotência: 1.425 WQuanto: R$ 1.199Onde: loja.philips.com.brFabricante: Mondial AF-30Capacidade: 3,5 litrosPotência: 1.500 WQuanto: R$ 559Onde: loja.emondial.com.brFabricante: Oster Super FryerCapacidade: 10 litrosPotência: 1700W (127V)/2200W (220V)Quanto: R$ 1.499Onde: oster.com.br | comida |
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] | Existem duas maneiras de ser revolucionário no mundo dos vinhos: uma é olhando para trás, e a outra, mirando onde ninguém mais olhou. O primeiro método foi adotado pelo produtor italiano Josko Gravner ao resgatar, nos anos 2000, as grandes ânforas e o jeito de fazer vinho no berço de tudo, a Geórgia de 6.000 anos a.C.Gravner trouxe ao mundo o que hoje é chamado de vinho laranja. Por tabela, também ajudou a incentivar a onda de orgânicos, biodinâmicos e naturebas de toda estirpe.O segundo método é o que move um projeto cearense chamado Alquimista da Caatinga. Com a ousadia típica dos transgressores, os fabricantes têm feito “espumante” a partir do caju.A empresa de Fortaleza nasceu em meados de 2020 para trabalhar com elementos presentes no bioma cearense, e produzir fermentados alcoólicos de forma mais natural. O primogênito é a Cauína, bebida fermentada naturalmente, com 11% de teor alcoólico.“O processo de produção ocorre pelo método champenoise”, diz Vicente Monteiro, criador do Alquimista da Caatinga. Por este processo, a segunda fermentação da bebida acontece na garrafa.Embora a Cauína tenha cara de espumante, teor alcoólico de espumante, e seja feita pelo método mais tradicional de se produzir espumante, Monteiro sabe que ela se equilibra em um terreno minado.“Não é uma cerveja e não é um vinho pela definição estritamente técnica. E talvez por isso seja inovador”, acredita.O primeiro restaurante a incluir a Cauína na carta de vinhos foi a Enoteca Saint VinSaint, em São Paulo.Para a proprietária Lis Cereja, especialista em vinhos naturais, orgânicos e biodinâmicos, apesar de a legislação de muitos países se referir a “vinho” apenas como o fermentado de uvas, existem pelo mundo muitas outras bebidas que se encaixam na categoria.“Boa parte deles tem origem em uma antiga, longa e complexa tradição de bebidas alcoólicas ancestrais fermentadas”, afirma Lis. “É muito errada essa visão de que esse tipo de bebida começou depois da chegada dos europeus.”Ela explica, ainda, que alguns autores não conseguem escolher entre o termo cerveja ou vinho para situações como esta. Assim, fazem referência a “vinho” para fermentados de frutas, e usam a palavra “cerveja” para fermentados a partir de grãos, tubérculos e raízes.Longe da semântica e perto do bioma cearense, a alquimia de Vicente Monteiro nasceu por meio de uma pesquisa dentro da Escola de Gastronomia Social Ivens Dias Branco, em Fortaleza, em 2019.“Fizemos 27 coletas em 27 plantas nativas entre flores e frutas dos três territórios: litoral, serra e sertão do Ceará”, explica Monteiro. “Ali, eu vi potencial para trabalhar com o caju.”A opção não foi somente uma questão de identidade com a região. Para ele, também é uma escolha sustentável. “Além de beneficiar o pequeno produtor, eu não preciso desmatar para produzir e ainda consigo aproveitar muito suco de caju que é produzido e acaba desperdiçado.”Até a escolha pelo nome vem de uma certa reciclagem, derivada do que ele considera uma mania cearense de juntar alcunhas. “Minha irmã, por exemplo, é Laurismar porque meus pais são Laura e Irismar. Já Cauína é a junção de cauin (bebida primitiva indígena) e cajuína (suco de caju típico no Nordeste)”, explica.Hoje, um ano depois de colocar a Cauína no mercado, com a produção de 1.500 garrafas, o projeto Alquimista da Caatinga já tem a segunda safra em andamento —são 200 unidades. A garrafa no site do fabricante sai por R$ 85.Mesmo mirando a inovação de produzir bebida alcoólica a partir do caju, Monteiro não deixou, de certa forma, de fazer como o pai do vinho laranja, o italiano Gravner, referenciando o passado.Fazer vinhos com outras frutas além da uva é um caminho que resgata a ancestralidade de obter fermentados alcoólicos, a exemplo das comunidades nativas de diferentes lugares do mundo.“Acredito que o grande movimento brasileiro vai ser resgatar nossas próprias técnicas ancestrais de fermentados alcoólicos”, prevê Lis.Para ela, projetos como o Alquimista da Caatinga ainda têm o olhar necessário para um estilo de vida sustentável.“É driblar um sistema de produção e consumo que normalizou o industrializado em nosso dia a dia”, resume.O bartender Maurício Barbosa, que comanda o balcão do restaurante Tujuína, em São Paulo, desenvolveu a receita exclusiva de um drink com Cauína para a Folha.Ingredientes30 ml de gin Vitória Régia com infusão de gengibre e gomos de limão Taiti*15 ml de shrub de cumaru**espumante Cauína3 gotas de solução salina***uma fatia de limão para decorar o copocopo sugerido: long drinkPreparoEm uma coqueteleira, adicione o gin, shrub de cumaru e a solução salina. Encha com ¾ de gelo e bata por oito segundos. Coe dentro do copo com gelo e complete com Cauína. Decore e sirva.Gin Vitória Régia com infusão de gengibre e gomos de limão*400 ml de gin Vitória Régia50 gramas de gengibre descascado2 limões TaitiPreparoDescasque os limões destacando a casca com a parte branca e corte em gomos. Descasque o gengibre e corte em quadrados. Em um recipiente de vidro, coloque os limões, gengibre e o gin. Deixe infusionar na geladeira durante oito horas, e coe para uma garrafa.Shrub de cumaru **200 gramas de açúcar demerara200 gramas de água filtrada100 ml de vinagre de vinho branco8 sementes de cumaruPreparoEm uma panela, coloque o açúcar, a água e o cumaru em fogo médio. Mexa para misturar e deixe ferver. Tire do fogo. Tampe e deixe esfriar. Depois, coe dentro de uma garrafa. Adicione uma pitada de flor de sal, vinagre e misture. Tampe e deixe na geladeira por uma hora.Solução salina***20 gramas de flor de sal80 gramas de águaPreparoEm um recipiente de vidro, coloque o sal e a água, e misture até diluir o sal. | comida |
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] | Dois brasileiros fazem parte da lista 50 Next, divulgada nesta terça (20), que elege jovens que estão moldando o futuro da gastronomia. Em sua primeira edição, a iniciativa é promovida pelo World's 50 Best, considerado o Oscar do setor, e vem em um momento de crise e fechamentos provocados pela Covid —que fez premiações e avaliações serem postergadas.Diferente dos rankings de bares e restaurantes do 50 Best, a lista com jovens líderes não tem ordem de classificação e foi dividida em categorias com um olhar mais abrangente à gastronomia —produção, tecnologia, educação, indústria criativa, ciência, hospitalidade e ativismo.A atuação em regiões periféricas é um elemento em comum entre os dois representantes do Brasil: Mariana Aleixo, 33, está à frente de projetos no complexo da Maré, na zona norte carioca; Thiago Vinícius de Paula da Silva, 32, atua com a democratização do acesso a alimentos orgânicos no Campo Limpo, zona Sul de São Paulo.“Com o restaurante e o armazém, damos visibilidade à conexão do campo com a periferia e à nossa quebrada. Até brincamos que vamos colocar mais Capão Redondo no Waze: é um convite para a cidade curtir os roteiros gastronômicos que estão nos extremos”, diz Thiago Vinícius.Responsável pela organização de festivais de música e uma agência cultural, a Solano Trindade, ele decidiu conectar produtores de orgânicos da zona sul ao habitantes da região, marcada pela alta ocorrência de negócios que vendem comida ultraprocessada. Assim nasceu, em 2018, um armazém e um delivery, e, no fim de 2019, o restaurante Organicamente Rango, comandado por sua mãe, Tia Nice.Além de entregar 1.500 pedidos de orgânicos por mês e produzir 200 pratos de comida por semana, Thiago também viabilizou, com apoiadores, a doação de quase 20 mil cestas de alimentos e 22 mil marmitas desde o começo da pandemia.Em 2020, Mariana Aleixo também ajudou a organizar um banco de alimentos e a entrega de 65 mil refeições para populações em situação de rua no complexo da Maré, no Rio de Janeiro.Desde 2010 ela usa a gastronomia em benefício dos moradores da região com o projeto Maré de Sabores, que está integrado ao Redes da Maré, movimento comunitário que atua em diferentes frentes no conjunto de 16 favelas da Maré, que tem 140 mil moradores.Mulheres vindas da qualificação do Maré de Sabores também podem atuar em um bufê, que desde o começo da pandemia opera por delivery e produz uma cozinha brasileira que resgata memórias e tradições alimentares dos moradores locais —entre as sugestões, estão costela de porco com mostarda de cajá e bobó de banana-da-terra com leite de coco, dendê e farofa.Dessa iniciativa também nasceu em 2016 a Casa das Mulheres, espaço voltado à equidade de gênero, que oferece acolhimento psicológico, jurídico e formação profissional."A gastronomia pauta a cultura e a cultura precisa falar mais da nossa identidade. Quando começamos a pensar na comida brasileira, vamos chegando em questões históricas, sociais e trazendo discussões de gênero e refletindo como esse poder econômico pode desenvolver territórios. O prêmio está trazendo essas questões, de como a gastronomia pode ser mais coletiva”, diz Mariana. Uma agricultora filipina, uma chef indígena mexicana e uma empreendedora indiana estão entre os jovens de 34 países, de até 35 anos, eleitos pelo 50 Nexts por sua contribuição e pelo potencial de causar impactos positivos no mundo.Eles foram escolhidos entre um conjunto de 700 candidatos, considerados entre inscritos, indicados e prospectados, em um processo feito em parceria com o Basque Culinary Center, instituto que atua na formação de chefs, no pólo gastronômico de San Sebastián, na Espanha.Além do anúncio virtual desta terça, o 50 Next também prevê a realização de uma cerimônia física em Bilbao, no País Basco, na Espanha, para celebrar as listas de 2021 e 2022, quando as restrições de viagens forem aliviadas.No ano passado, a organização do prêmio voltou esforços a iniciativas, como um leilão, para apoiar a recuperação de um setor profundamente abalado pelos meses de fechamento e pela crise econômica que se seguiu à chegada da Covid-19. Em março de 2020, a entidade cancelou a cerimônia global dos melhores restaurantes do mundo —a expectativa é de que o prêmio, que geralmente acontece em junho, deva acontecer no final deste ano na Antuérpia, Bélgica.O “Guia Michelin”, por exemplo, anunciou na semana passada que vai retomar as atividades de avaliação em várias cidades nos Estados Unidos, com a reabertura de restaurantes no país. Segundo uma entrevista de um porta-voz do guia ao New York Times, 80% dos restaurantes estrelados estão abertos nos EUA —em todo o mundo, apenas um terço dos estabelecimentos estão em pleno funcionamento agora. | comida |
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] | A mala com um saco cheio de pó branco deteve a chef Daniela Narciso no aeroporto de Miami por várias horas. “Precisei abrir o pacote e comer três colheradas”, conta ela. Como não morreu nem passou mal, a polícia a liberou para seguir viagem com a carga de farinha de mandioca artesanal, extrafina, típica dos açorianos que povoaram Florianópolis.“Se não é farofa, não é comida”, diz Daniela em tom brincalhão. Só que a chef fala muito sério. Ela gosta de farofa a ponto de levar farinha brasileira na mala sempre que viaja para o exterior, a pretexto de divulgar nossa gastronomia —“mas sempre com segundas intenções”, admite.Daniela gosta tanto de farofa que escreveu um livro sobre o tema, em coautoria com o amigo Danilo Rolim, também chef de cozinha.Intitulado, veja só, “Farofa”, o livro reúne 82 receitas de farofas e assemelhados, mais dezenas de variações possíveis.A obsessão por farofa, mais do que uma excentricidade da chef, é um traço cultural do Brasil. Ela aparece na alimentação de todas as regiões do país, e há tantas receitas que pode ser complicado encontrar semelhança entre elas.Assim, o livro “Farofa” começa com a definição de seu objeto de estudo. Apresenta, para depois contestar, o verbete do dicionário Caldas Aulete: “Prato (geralmente acompanhamento) preparado à base de farinha de mandioca frita em gordura, geralmente misturada com outros ingredientes como cebola, ovos, linguiça etc”.Farinha de mandioca é apenas uma das bases possíveis. Danilo, natural de Itapeva (SP), diz que lá o clima é frio demais para o cultivo de mandioca. “Minha farofa, aquela presente nas mesas de domingo na casa da minha bisavó (...), sempre foi a de milho”, escreve o chef no livro.Milho e mandioca são a base da alimentação brasileira —e, portanto, da farofa— desde antes da chegada dos portugueses. Mas farofa também evolui.Tem a farofa de pão torrado (farinha de rosca), como a que a minha mãe, neta de italianos, sempre fez para acompanhar o frango assado. De pinhão de araucária, nas terras altas do Sul e do Sudeste. De piracuí —farinha de peixe seco— na Amazônia. De biscoito triturado, de quase qualquer coisa.Daniela e Danilo abrem o leque para estipular o que merece ser chamado de farofa. Um requisito: o ingrediente primário deve ser farinha ou migalhas previamente cozidas ou torradas. Assim, o preparo da farofa se resume a um refogado rápido.Quanto à consistência, a farofa deve ser solta, desagregada, com grãos livres —o que requer um grau muito baixo de umidade. Se molhar a farofa, ela muda de nome. “O virado é mais úmido, e o pirão é mais úmido ainda”, afirma Danilo.Mas os próprios autores mandam às favas a rigidez taxonômica, ao incluir no livro receitas de virado à paulista e de cuscuz, também na sua versão paulista —pelos parâmetros de umidade de Danilo, algo entre o virado e o pirão, compactado e enformado feito bolo, definitivamente não-farofa.A amplitude da acepção é a maior graça do livro. Com um punhado de receitas, a maioria de execução simples, os autores atribuem identidade farofeira a pratos dificilmente reconhecidos como tal.O feijão tropeiro, por exemplo. Tendemos a pensar nele como um feijão sem caldo, refogado com torresmos e farinha. Na ótica de Daniela e Danilo, trata-se de uma farofa de feijões. E faz muito sentido.A mesma coisa com a paçoca de amendoim, guloseima de porta de escola, campeã da memória afetiva de nove entre 10 brasileiros. Sua receita aparece, assim como quem não quer nada, no capítulo dedicado às farofas doces.Sem cravar o termo “farofa”, mas já erguendo um puxadinho no conceito, o livro reserva uma seção para os primos internacionais da farofa: as migas portuguesas, o stuffing (recheio) dos perus americanos, a salada panzanella, de pedigree italiano. Tudo feito com pão dormido —o mundo rico ainda não descobriu as delícias da farinha de mandioca.“Farofa” abre espaço ainda para algumas receitas fit, com linhaça, quinoa, amaranto e quetais. Justo. No Brasil democrático, marombeiro também pode ser farofeiro. | comida |
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] | Já colhi trufas em lugares tão diferentes quanto a Toscana, na Itália, e Margaret River, na Austrália. Já provei as que vêm da França, mas também as do Chile.A trufa negra que acabo de provar, nascida no estado de São Paulo, não é a mesma que a do Périgord francês. Também não é colhida aos pés de velhos carvalhos —estava oculta entre as raízes de um pé de avelã. Não é portanto a mesma que costumamos associar, na memória do paladar, às mais famosas, do sudoeste da França.Mas basta cheirar para saber: é trufa. Como um vinho de uma determinada uva, que em cada lugar do globo em que é feito ganha características locais —mas não deixa de ser vinho daquela uva.A raridade das trufas é tal que faz sua oferta imprevisível, e seu preço, astronômico. Saber que podem ser colhidas aqui ao lado (e em reais, não em euros) é sempre boa notícia.Esta que provei estava muito bem embalada (e bem acompanhada de linguine ao creme de parmesão), obra da Tartuferia.Mas curiosamente, a embalagem tinha muito mais aroma do que a trufa em si. E o aroma é o veículo primordial do seu sabor —mas neste caso mostrou pouca persistência, evanescendo rápido. Ficou longe de ter a potência das melhores trufas. Mas é trufa —o que não é pouca coisa. | comida |
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] | A trufa branca (Tuber magnatum Pico) é a mais cara do mundo –as maiores são vendidas em leilões. Em outubro de 2020, a cotação oficial na bolsa de trufas atingiu € 3000 o quilo, ou seja, R$ 20,30 por grama da iguaria.Embora seja encontrada apenas na região centro-norte da Itália, entre outubro e dezembro, a França entrou na corrida e já anunciou ter descoberto uma forma de cultivá-las. Mas só a Itália, por enquanto, tem produção em escala comercial.Lamberto Percussi, sócio da Vinheria Percussi, em São Paulo, importou 4 quilos e vendeu tudo –para ralar a trufa fresca sobre os pratos, os clientes pagaram R$ 72 por grama.“Como as pessoas não viajaram e o restaurante ainda estava aberto, o mercado bombou”, comemora o restaurateur.Mais comuns, as trufas negras (Tuber melanosporum), as cinza, também conhecidas como bianchetto (Tuber borchii), e as trufas estivo (Tuber aestivum), típicas de verão, custam um pouco menos.As mais famosas são as de Périgord, na França, de Norcia, na Itália, e dos Pirineus, na Espanha. Mas elas estão se espalhando –Chile, África do Sul, Nova Zelândia, Austrália e Argentina já têm produção.As trufas estivo italianas que acabam de chegar ao empório da Tartuferia San Paolo, já laminadas, saem por R$ 45 (pacote de 3 gramas). | comida |
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] | A pandemia faz mais uma vítima de peso no mundo da gastronomia. O El Barri, grupo de restaurantes capitaneado pelo genial chef catalão Albert Adrià em Barcelona, na Espanha, teve seu fim anunciado nesta quinta (8). Eram cinco casas de estilos diferentes, todas próximas —por isso o nome do grupo, "o bairro".Adrià, com seu irmão Ferran, foi artífice do restaurante mais revolucionário das últimas décadas, o ElBulli, no litoral da Catalunha, que fechou para transformar-se numa fundação e centro de pesquisas em 2011.Antes disso, Albert já havia deixado seu posto, em 2009, para abrir um pequeno e delicioso bar-restaurante em Barcelona, Inòpia.Logo o passou adiante, e há dez anos abriu o Tickets, sensacional mistura de referências populares, de tapas feitas com técnicas de vanguarda e ambiente descontraído e divertido, e que foi o início do grupo El Barri.Os outro quatro eram Pakta (cozinha nikkei peruana), Enigma (ambiciosa cozinha de vanguarda), Hoja Santa (mexicano), e Bodega 1900 (vermutes e cozinha trivial espanhola). Em todos, o irmão Ferran dava também seus pitacos.O empreendimento se tornou possível pela sociedade com os irmãos Iglesias, donos da tradicional marisqueria Rías de Galicia. Foram eles que anunciaram o fim do grupo —que em maio passado tinha 230 funcionários—, explicando que por um ano inteiro só perderam dinheiro, chegando então ao limite.Por enquanto, o restaurante de peixes continua existindo, bem como um bar de tapas da família Iglesias. Quanto a Albert Adrià, um dos mais importantes chefs de cozinha do mundo, o futuro é incerto."Tenho que fazer um balanço e decidir se para mim vale ou não a pena ter um restaurante", declarou ao jornalista Pau Arenós, do jornal catalão El Periódico. | comida |
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] | No fogareiro à esquerda do balcão, Yūsuke Tsuen prepara chá com a consciência de quem carrega 23 gerações. Prestes a completar 40 anos, ele é o herdeiro da loja de chá mais antiga do Japão, a Tsuen Chaya, fundada em 1160 em Uji, província de Kyoto.A simpática cidade é conhecida pelo chá de ótima qualidade, e abriga outras lojas centenárias, além de invencionices como guioza e cerveja à base de matchá, a versão em pó do chá verde.Para esta matéria, tive a oportunidade de provar sencha, gyokuro e hōjicha —todos extraídos da planta de chá verde, a Camellia sinensis— preparados por Tsuen.No mesmo endereço (o prédio atual é de 1673), seus antepassados serviram matchá para o daimyō, ou “senhor de terras”, Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536-1598), e para seu sucessor, o xogum Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), figuras centrais no processo de unificação do Japão e na difusão da cultura do chá no país.As visitas estão em registros oficiais e também nos relatos passados de pai para filho. “Ouvia essas histórias desde criança enquanto bebia matchá”, lembra.Primeira geração da família, o samurai Masahisa Tsuen se aposentou em 1160, ano em que abriu a loja de infusões medicinais, bem antes de a cultura do chá verde se popularizar no arquipélago.Duas décadas depois, ele se juntou ao seu antigo senhor, Minamoto Yorimasa, para uma batalha derradeira que terminaria no templo Byōdo-in, em Uji, Patrimônio Mundial da Unesco, e que está estampado na moeda de 10 ienes. A história dos dois homens foi retratada em uma peça do gênero dramático tradicional Nô.A narrativa dá uma ideia da importância do clã na história da cidade. A família é considerada guardiã da lendária ponte de Uji, uma das mais antigas do país, do século 7, e que desemboca na casa de chá —era dever dos Tsuen fazer reparos na estrutura e organizar cortejos de nobres e militares que cruzavam o rio.A Tsuen Chaya é um shinise, negócio centenário e familiar não tão raro no Japão. De acordo com o Instituto de Pesquisa de Gestão Centenária, em Tóquio, existem no Japão cerca de 33 mil companhias com pelo menos um século de idade (mais de 40% do total mundial), sendo que 140 existem há mais de 500 anos.“Estudei com herdeiros de lojas centenárias, como eu, e assumir o negócio era natural como ter nascido na minha família”, diz Tsuen, que é pai de quatro filhos. Quando a família era menor, ele discotecava em festas. Hoje, os hobbies são a pesca e a fotografia.“Na pista de dança e na sala de chá, é preciso ter sensibilidade para dar ao público o que ele quer, assim como para jogar a isca no lugar certo.”Yūsuke Tsuen assumiu o negócio há cerca de dez anos, o que faz dele o responsável pelos blends da casa, feitos a partir da colheita de diferentes fornecedores dentro da província. Para se adaptar aos novos tempos, ele conta que a marca reduziu embalagens, já que as famílias estão menores, e inseriu criações no menu da casa, como o sorvete de matchá e o matchá dango, doce de arroz glutinoso com chá verde em pó.Existem, ainda, a loja online e uma pequena revenda no Canadá. A irmã de Yūsuke, Yuka, é casada com um canadense. Não há, no entanto, planos de expansão, garante o herdeiro.Yūsuke mantém uma expressão serena enquanto conversa, harmonizada com a destreza ao manejar uma concha de bambu com a qual retira água do kama, um tipo de caldeirão. Depois, ele a deposita sobre pequenas tigelas com chá chamadas chawan.O sabor e a coloração dos diferentes tipos de chá verde variam de acordo com tamanho e idade das folhas, torra, e tempo de exposição ao sol antes da colheita.Na hora de preparar, interferem no resultado a temperatura da água, a quantidade de chá e o tempo de infusão. Para Tsuen, o estado de espírito dá o toque final: “É sobre estar presente com o coração.”O delicado gyokuro, por exemplo, é preparado a 40ºC, com as folhas mais jovens da Camellia sinensis cobertas poucas semanas antes da colheita, para inibir a fotossíntese e liberar seu sabor umami característico.A produção de gyokuro corresponde a menos de 0,5% do total no país. Na Tsuen Chaya, o pacote de 50 gramas custa a partir de 1200 ienes, cerca de R$ 61.O hōjicha, por sua vez, usa folhas maiores e mais maduras da planta, é torrado previamente, e suporta temperaturas mais altas, de 100ºC. Na loja, 100 gramas saem a cerca de R$ 28.Originária da China, a Camellia sinensis contém cafeína, taninos e T-theanina, um aminoácido com propriedades relaxantes encontrado apenas nela e em um tipo de cogumelo. Há estudos que relacionam a T-theanina à melhora da capacidade cognitiva.“Mais que um ‘superalimento’, chá é cultura e conta a história do Japão”, defende Tsuen. A depender da trajetória de sua família, eis aí uma verdade.ONDE ENCONTRAR CHÁ VERDE NO BRASILNo início do século 19, Dom João 6º ordenou a vinda de imigrantes chineses para cultivar a Camellia no Jardim Botânico do Rio de Janeiro. A cultura entrou em decadência poucos anos depois, e renasceu no século seguinte, quando o imigrante japonês Torazo Okamoto levou as primeiras sementes a Registro, a 190 quilômetros de São Paulo. Conta-se que foram escondidas em miolos de pão. O auge do cultivo na “capital do chá” ocorreu entre os anos 1950 e 1980. Hoje, poucos produtores resistem. Conheça dois deles:Sítio ShimadaO produtor artesanal cultiva um tipo de sencha proveniente da Camellia assamica, espécie mais adaptada ao solo local. Além da loja online, há pontos de venda espalhados pelo paíswww.sitioshimada.com.brInfusorinaNo site, a especialista Renata Acácia faz uma curadoria de marcas como a Sítio Yamamaru, com chá cultivado em sistema agroflorestal, e a Amaya, com 90 anos de históriawww.infusorina.com.brColaborou Tata Meraki | comida |
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] | Cristãs ou não, muitas famílias brasileiras têm o costume de preparar bacalhoada para a sexta-feira santa. No prato, não pode faltar azeite, e ele costuma ser acompanhado de vinho.As receitas são muitas. Cada família tem a sua. Boa parte das pessoas tem também a sua marca preferida de azeite e de vinho para a data. O velho trio, no entanto, não obrigatoriamente é a melhor combinação possível.O mercado está cheio de novidades, principalmente no caso dos azeites. Há azeites especiais importados de vários perfis e procedências e, nesta época do ano, chega às prateleiras a nova safra dos azeites extra virgens nacionais, que têm se mostrado de qualidade excepcional. Para quem pode pagar, vale a pena sair do comum e experimentar novas combinações em busca do trio perfeito.“A gente vê muita coisa escrita sobre vinho e comida”, diz Glenda Haas, diretora-geral e azeitóloga do Lagar H, empresa gaúcha que chega ao mercado este ano. “E agora estão aparecendo texto também sobre como harmonizar azeites com comida, mas nunca vi nada escrito sobre como harmonizar azeite e vinho”.No entanto, na prática, se sabe que tem combinação que não dá certo, na qual um piora o outro. Os azeites têm três elementos que devem ser considerados: o perfil aromático, o amargor e a picância. Segundo Glenda, há azeites suaves, médios e intensos, no que se refere ao amargor e à picância. “Os diferentes cultivares de azeitona, assim como as castas das uvas, têm características próprias”, diz a azeitóloga. A picual, a coratina, a grappolo e a koroneiki, por exemplo, costumam dar azeites intensos. A arbosana, a hojiblanca e a cobrançosa, azeites de picância e amargor médios. A arbequina e a galega ou Maria da Fé (variante brasileira), azeites suaves.“Mas isso varia dependendo da região, da safra (clima no ano), do modo de extração e, também, do ponto de maturação no momento da colheita”.A azeitona colhida verde costuma render azeites mais picantes e mais amargos, com notas aromáticas mais herbáceas que lembram grama cortada, ervas frescas ou alcachofra, por exemplo. Quando colhida madura, produz azeites mais “adocicados”, delicados, que podem ter aromas de frutas secas, nozes e até baunilha. Os azeites italianos costumam ser mais pungentes que os portugueses. Os gaúchos, mais verdes do que os da Serra da Mantiqueira. Uma azeitona forte pode render um azeite não tão intenso se ficar muito tempo na batedeira na hora da extração. Nos anos em que chove muito, as variedades intensas ficam mais delicadas.Os aromas, a picância e o amargor, do azeite, assim como os aromas, o corpo e a textura do vinho, devem ser levados em conta na hora de combinar azeite e vinho.“Mas não podemos esquecer que a combinação dos dois passa sempre pelo prato”, diz António Roquette, diretor de enoturismo da Herdade do Esporão, empresa portuguesa do Alentejo que produz uma boa variedade de vinhos e azeites, além de manter um dos restaurantes gastronômicos mais bem cotados da região.“O prato modifica o azeite. É o prato quem manda na harmonização com o vinho”. A marca é uma das poucas importadas que já tem no mercado brasileiro a safra de azeites produzidos no fim de 2020. “Azeite é um ingrediente”, diz a azeitóloga da Herdade do Esporão, Ana Carrilho. Segundo ela, é mito que não se deve cozinhar com azeite. Ele é a gordura mais saudável.“Como todo ingrediente, o azeite usado para cozinhar muda a relação com o vinho”. Contudo, o que muda mesmo essa relação é o azeite usado para a finalização, aquele fio que se coloca depois do prato pronto. Pois, na cocção, as características dos ingredientes se fundem e se perdem um pouco.A finalização é um tempero final. “Muita gente, por exemplo, coloca pimenta ou molho picante nas carnes vermelhas grelhadas”, diz Ana. “Se, em vez disso, você usar um azeite picante, funciona muito bem, ele envolve toda a carne”.E o vinho escolhido para a carne com azeite picante não será o mesmo daquele escolhido para a carne simples. Tanto picância quanto amargor no azeite não vão bem com vinhos encorpados, de muitos taninos. As características se potencializam e podem ficar desagradáveis.“Eu sou muito chato com meus azeites”, diz o chef português Vítor Sobral, do restaurante Tasca da Esquina, um sucesso de Lisboa que também se instalou em São Paulo.“Cada prato tem um azeite certo. Separo os azeites doces, feitos com azeitonas maduras, dos mais picantes e verdes. Com o bacalhau, não vai bem um azeite verde. Bacalhau já tem sabor intenso. O melhor para o bacalhau tampouco é o vinho tinto, mas, sim, o vinho branco”.O chef é autor do livro “Vítor Sobral com os Azeites” (Casa das Letras, Portugal, 288 páginas, 30 euros). Confira a receita da foto acima no final desta reportagem.“A gente precisa lembrar também que azeite é gordura”, afirma o chef Marcelo Giachini, responsável por testar receitas e harmonizações dos produtos importados pela Casa Flora, empresa que traz para o Brasil uma série de azeites especiais, como as linhas do espanhol Joseph Lorens e do chileno Deleyda.“Qualquer comida gordurosa pede um vinho com boa acidez para limpar a boca. Espumantes também são ótimos para isso”, afirma. No geral, quando a pessoa conhece as regras de harmonização do vinho, fica fácil combiná-lo com azeite. “Uma forma muito comum de harmonizar o vinho com os pratos é pela região de origem”, diz Fernanda Fonseca, criadora da Pandora Experiências de Vinho, série de eventos em torno de bebidas e comida.“Costuma funcionar. A combinação de azeite, comida e vinho pode seguir esse mesmo critério. As regiões produtoras de vinho costumam também produzir azeite. E os dois produtos trazem características do terroir. Eu colocaria um azeite da Serra da Mantiqueira com um vinho da Serra da Mantiqueira e um azeite da Campanha Gaúcha com um vinho da Campanha Gaúcha.”Na sexta-feira santa, o bacalhau é uma tradição. No almoço do domingo, a carne vermelha está liberada. No feriado todo, o chocolate é a estrela das sobremesasBacalhau a lagareiro com batatas a murro O lombo do peixe é assado no forno com muito azeite e alho. É servido com batatas assadas. Aqui o azeite entra como ingrediente principal e em grande quantidade, por isso não pode ser muito intenso. O ideal é um suave como os varietais de arbequina, galega ou Maria da fé. Os blends portugueses também costumam ser delicados. Como o prato é untuoso, o vinho precisa ter boa acidez e corpo, como um chardonnay ou um espumante da Bairrada. Bacalhoada Leva batatas, tomate, cebola, alho, azeitonas pretas, ovo cozido e, por vezes, pimentão. E bastante azeite. Para o preparo, o melhor é um suave. Para finalizar, um fio de azeite de intensidade média, com alguma picância e algum amargor, como os das variedades grappolo ou cobrançosa. Um vinho branco, como os da região do vinho verde, pode fazer frente aos aromas deste prato. Para quem prefere os tintos, o ideal é escolher algo com boa acidez como os vinhos do Dão ou um cabernet franc da Serra Gaúcha.Pernil de cordeiro Marinado no vinho tinto com ervas, alho e sal, o pernil de cordeiro ao forno deve ser assado no azeite suave. Se a finalização for com um azeite de média intensidade, o vinho pode ser mais encorpado, como um tannat da Campanha Gaúcha ou do Uruguai. Se for com um intenso, como picual, coratina ou koroneiki, o melhor é escolher um vinho tinto mais leve como um pinot noir ou um syrah de clima frio.Carne grelhada Cortes bovinos magros, como a maminha, o patinho ou o filé mignon, ficam muito bons apenas grelhados com azeite sem sal. O suave vai no preparo. Para finalizar, um fio de azeite intenso e flor de sal. O vinho aqui tem de ser tinto, mas não deve ter muito tanino ou madeira para não brigar com a pungência do azeite. Um pinot noir ou um gamay são boas escolhas.Mousse de chocolate Doces também combinam com azeite. Aqui há dois caminhos. Pela semelhança, escolhe-se um azeite suave com aromas de frutas doces. Pelo contraste, um azeite intenso, com boa picância. Quem quiser ousar ainda mais, pode acrescentar flor de sal. Nos dois casos, o vinho deve ser de sobremesa, como os do Porto e os da Madeira. Receita do livro português “Vítor Sobral com os Azeites”Tempo de preparação: 1h10 Porções: 10 Sugestão de vinho: verdelho do AlentejoIngredientes Bacalhau 2kg de lombo de bacalhau dessalgado 10 dentes de alho com casca Pimenta da Jamaica a gosto 20g de gengibre laminado 80g de tomate seco picado Pimenta malagueta a gosto Azeite extra-virgem maduro frutado (o quanto baste)Creme de favas 250g de favas portuguesas congeladas 50g de bacon picado 80g de alho-poró picado 4 dentes de alho picados 100g de tomate em cubos 50ml de vinho branco 200 ml de caldo de galinha 30g de hortelã fresca Azeite extra-virgem maduro frutado (o quanto baste) Sal e pimenta a gosto Modo de fazer Bacalhau Em uma panela grande, mergulhe o bacalhau até a metade em azeite. Junte todos os outros ingredientes. O bacalhau deve cozinhar lentamente em fogo muito brando para que o azeite não ferva (cerca de meia hora).Creme de favas Faça um refogado com o bacon, o alho-poró, o alho picado e o tomate. Acrescente o vinho branco e deixe reduzir. Adicione o caldo, deixe levantar fervura e junte as favas descascadas e a hortelã. Quando ferver de novo, leve ao liquidificador e acerte o tempero. Passe por uma peneira e sirva com o bacalhau por cima. | comida |
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] | Nos anos 1970, conheci na França —e passei a frequentar, em viagens posteriores— uma charmosa loja de vinhos chamada Les Caves de la Madeleine, aberta em 1971 na margem direita do Sena.Ali funcionava também a primeira escola de vinhos aberta ao público comum, chamada Académie du Vin. Nada de surpreendente, estando em Paris.A não ser pelo fato de que seu dono não era francês: era um inglês, Steven Spurrier, que morreu de causas não divulgadas na madrugada de hoje, rodeado pela família, em sua casa em Dorset, na Inglaterra, aos 79 anos.Seu atrevimento em pontificar sobre vinhos na França era patente. Ele adorava, divulgava e vendia vinhos franceses, mas também fazia algo raro naquele país: promover e vender vinhos de fora, como por exemplo vinhos do Porto, de Jerez e da Madeira.Mas o que tornou Spurrier e sua loja famosos foi uma degustação que ele organizou ali, em 1976, e que ficou conhecida como o Julgamento de Paris, no qual —desta vez, inadvertidamente— ele mais uma vez lançou a luz sobre vinhos não franceses.A degustação foi planejada para cotejar grandes vinhos franceses com outros, sobejamente desconhecidos no mundo, vindos do então obscuro vale californiano do Napa, num país sem tradição vinícola, os Estados Unidos.Um embate aparentemente tão esdrúxulo que a imprensa francesa sequer compareceu ao evento —o único jornalista presente era da revista americana Time (que depois faria uma bombástica matéria a respeito).Já o júri era composto por degustadores de alto coturno (como o dono do vinho Romanée-Conti, Aubert de Villaine, a editora da revista La Revue du Vin de France e sommeliers de grandes restaurantes) e, mesmo sendo uma degustação às cegas (o júri não sabia quais vinhos estava provando), o próprio Spurrier estava certo de que os franceses venceriam de lavada.Mas entre os tintos, todos da uva cabernet sauvignon, ganhou o americano Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 1973, batendo grandes Bordeaux como Mouton-Rothschild e Haut Brion. E entre os brancos, venceu o também californiano do Napa Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 1973, batendo os franceses da Bourgogne.Com isso, os americanos entraram para a história do vinho —assim como o inglês Spurrier, mesmo com os franceses alegando que seus vinhos, que evoluiriam mais lentamente, eram muito jovens (não estariam ainda em seu esplendor) para comparar com americanos de safras semelhantes.Anos depois deste evento, o inglês voltou para seu país natal, onde nasceu em 1941 e onde começara sua carreira nos anos 1960, trabalhando na Chistopher's, a mais antiga loja de vinhos de Londres.De volta ao lar, desenvolveu sua carreira como consultor de lojas, vinícolas e importadoras, escreveu livros (como o mais recente, sua autobiografia intitulada "A Life in Wine"), publicou colunas e participou em vários postos editoriais na importante revista Decanter.Para completar, fundou uma vinícola —a Bride Valley Vineyard, em Dorset, onde morava. Mas nunca deixou de ser lembrado pela famosa degustação de 1976.O evento chegou a virar filme recentemente. "Bottle Shock" (2008), ou em português, "O Julgamento de Paris", está disponível na Amazon Prime Video, mas, infelizmente, apenas em versão dublada.Nele, Spurrier é representado pelo ator Alan Rickman como um inglês esnobe e pernóstico, o que é injusto. Conheci Spurrier, ainda que superficialmente, em eventos (inclusive no Brasil), e ele foi sempre uma pessoa elegantemente trajada, mas educado e gentil.Como um sincero amante do vinho deveria sempre ser. | comida |
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] | “No século 16, os jesuítas já plantavam azeitonas para produzir o seu azeite”, afirma Marcelo Scofano. “Quando, depois de viver no Brasil, Dom João VI voltou para Portugal, mandou arrancar todas as oliveiras daqui para não fazerem concorrência ao produto português”.Pouco mais de um ano depois, foi proclamada a independência do Brasil, mas as oliveiras só voltaram no fim do século, pela mão dos imigrantes. Esses, contudo, não souberam manejar o cultivo da árvore. “O nono e a nona, como todos italianos do sul, tinham oliveiras no quintal, mas não davam frutos”, diz o produtor gaúcho Paulo Marchioretto.Criou-se, então, a ideia de que as condições de clima e solo no Brasil não permitiam o cultivo da oliveira. Só na década de 1930, essa hipótese começa a ser contestada.Em 1935, em Maria da Fé, Minas Gerais, o português Emídio Ferreira dos Santos plantou mudas da árvore na fazenda que administrava e no centro da cidade. As árvores frutificaram, mas ele não chegou a extrair azeite. Seu pomar, no entanto, décadas depois serviu de base para os estudos da Epamig.“Na Epamig de Maria da Fé, a pesquisa com o cultivo de oliveiras começou em 1955”, conta Nilton Caetano de Oliveira, que por oito anos gerenciou essas pesquisas.“Mais de 150 variedades foram testadas. Delas, só seis se adaptaram: arbequina, arbosana, koroneiki, grappolo, manzanilla e ascolano”. Em 2004, quando Nilton chegou para gerenciar as pesquisas, ainda não havia se tentado extrair azeite por falta de equipamento.“Em 2006, recebemos a visita de Ítalo Mostarda, um curioso”, conta. “Ele tinha uma empresa de restauração de máquinas em São Paulo e se ofereceu para criar uma prensa para de extração de azeite. Topei na hora. Assim, em 2008, extraímos o primeiro azeite da história do país.”Mais ou menos na mesma época, a Embrapa ( Empresa Brasileira de Pesquisa Agropecuária) já vinha pesquisando a produção de azeite e começavam a surgir iniciativas privadas.“Quando resolvemos plantar, em 2006, tinha alguns olivais pelo país, mas nós fomos os primeiros a lançar um azeite comercial no país em 2010”, diz Vani Ceolin Aued, sócia do azeite Olivas do Sul.Ela e o marido, José Alberto Aued, funcionários públicos aposentados, plantaram 11 hectares de oliveiras em seu sítio em Cachoeira do Sul, próximo a Santa Maria (RS). Hoje o casal tem também uma fazenda em Encruzilhada do Sul, na Serra do Sudeste, RS. No total, têm 127 hectares de olivais.Muitos produtores do país são casais de profissionais, com carreira de sucesso, que viram na olivicultura um projeto de futuro. É o caso, por exemplo, da jornalista Bia Pereira e do publicitário Bob Vieira da Costa, que fazem o Sabiá. Eles começaram produzindo na sua fazenda em Santo Antônio do Pinhal, São Paulo.Pouco depois, compraram também uma fazenda em Encruzilhada do Sul, Rio Grande do Sul, especialmente para a produção de azeites.O azeite extravirgem é o produto mais nobre que pode ser extraído da azeitona. Para que ele receba essa classificação, é importante que o produtor siga uma série de etapas1 - As azeitonas devem ser colhidas quando ainda não estão muito maduras. Isso garante aromas frescos, picância e amargor que mudam um pouco de acordo com a variedade. Elas não podem ser machucadas, o que pode provocar oxidação (ranço) e/ou fermentação (aroma de azeitona em conserva)2 - Após colhidas, devem ser transportadas para um local fresco. E a extração deve começar o quanto antes. O ideal é no máximo em 24 horas3 - No lagar (fábrica), passam por uma seleção para separar folhas e galhos4 - Em seguida, são moídas. Lagares mais antigos usam prensas5 - Depois, o líquido é separado do bagaço. E o líquido separado em óleo e água. Em geral, isso é feito por centrifugação. Mas pode-se usar também a decantação6 - O produto final, em geral, é filtrado antes de engarrafar para eliminar impurezas. Mas existe um estilo de azeite não filtrado, o novello | comida |
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] | Anos depois que o movimento #metoo nasceu nos Estados Unidos denunciando o assédio sexual no mundo do cinema, outro segmento profissional, o dos vinhos, viveu escândalo semelhante naquele país.Uma espécie de #winetoo, atingindo mulheres que trabalham como sommelière (responsável pelo serviço da bebida, principalmente em restaurantes). Situação que, revela uma pesquisa do colunista carioca de vinhos Marcelo Copello, diretor da revista Baco, pode ser parecida no Brasil.Em outubro de 2020, o jornal The New York Times levantou denúncias envolvendo uma das entidades mais respeitadas do setor, a Court of Master Sommeliers dos Estados Unidos, que organiza os concursos que conferem o cobiçado título de Master Sommelier.O calvário dos candidatos é retratado no documentário “Somm”, mas os relatos do jornal americano vão além dos rigores de um exame. São eventos de sexismo e assédio denunciados por 21 mulheres, culminando, em dezembro, na queda de toda a direção da entidade.Detalhe: desde 1997 foram concedidos 155 títulos de Master Sommelier, sendo somente 24 para mulheres.Suspeitando que as profissionais do vinho no Brasil também enfrentassem percalços, Copello organizou, pela internet, entre 18 e 25 de janeiro, uma enquete entre sommelières brasileiras para colher opiniões e relatos. “Achei que poderia existir problema semelhante, e que era preciso fazer algo a respeito”, diz.“Nossa cultura latina é muito machista, e às vezes não percebemos. Vejo pequenas atitudes diariamente no meio do vinho e fora dele.”Ante o acordo de sigilo em seus depoimentos, participaram 500 profissionais de 18 estados. Delas, 43% são sommelières, as demais trabalham em outras funções na indústria, comércio e divulgação de vinhos —como enólogas em vinícolas, vendedoras em lojas, jornalistas. E 79,5% afirmam que sim, o mundo do vinho é machista.Muitas escreveram relatos de problemas vividos, como piadas humilhantes e sexistas de clientes em restaurantes e lojas; salários menores para mesma função de homens; questionamento da competência por serem mulheres; oferta de comprar vinhos caros em troca de sexo; promessas de promoção no trabalho se aceitas as cantadas dos superiores; e houve até um relato de estupro.Cerca de 20% das profissionais negam existir problemas, algumas acham que o cenário já foi pior, e que hoje as mulheres são mais respeitadas.Sommelière pioneira no Brasil (formou-se na primeira turma da Associação Brasileira de Sommeliers do Rio de Janeiro, em 1982), a carioca Deise Novakoski sente os problemas na pele há quarenta anos. Nos restaurantes, enfrentava incredulidade tanto servindo vinhos quanto em sua outra especialidade: preparando drinques como bartender.“Tive que rodar a baiana muitas vezes para me impor; e passado tanto tempo, o preconceito continua, mesmo com todo meu currículo”. Seu último posto em restaurante, por quinze anos, foi no agora extinto Eça Café.Em Santa Catarina, a situação pareceu menos sufocante, ao menos durante os oito anos (até 2019) em que o cargo de presidente da ABS foi ocupado por uma mulher. Mas Néa Silveira relata que, mesmo no comando da entidade, muitas vezes teve que usar argumentos de autoridade para ser ouvida pelo público masculino.“Nos últimos vinte anos a situação melhorou muito, já é mais fácil aceitar uma mulher no posto de sommelier”, diz ela, “mas ainda sinto que, para que a mulher conquiste o mesmo lugar de um homem, ela tem que ser muito melhor que ele, tem que desempenhar muito mais”. A desconfiança da capacidade de conhecer vinhos por ser mulher apareceu muitas vezes na carreira da sommelière Jessica Marinzeck. Não tanto quando trabalhou em restaurantes na Europa —onde se formou numa escola de sommellerie—, mas quando no Brasil assumiu, em 2014, o posto de compradora global de vinhos da loja digital Evino.“Eu era a responsável por tomar as decisões, mas havia representantes das vinícolas que exigiam falar com o CEO da empresa. Depois, quando abri um quiosque meu de vinhos num shopping, clientes perguntavam se era do meu marido, ou meu pai”, lembra ela.Afinal, não é só o mundo dos vinhos. “O mundo todo é machista”, constata a sommelière do restaurante D.O.M., Gabriela Monteleone, que já viveu experiências negativas como não ser autorizada a decidir a lista de vinhos. Mas ela se considera privilegiada porque ao longo da carreira esteve quase sempre em ambientes com forte presença feminina.“Minha primeira mentora foi a Adriana Grasso, da Enoteca Acqua Santa, onde fui estagiar no salão, em 2005”, recorda. Dali em diante, quase sempre esteve escorada por profissionais mulheres —chefes ou colegas— que incentivavam seu trabalho.“Hoje no mundo todo há mulheres que são referência no setor de vinhos, atuando em postos-chave, e servem de exemplo de como a situação de equidade é importante”, afirma. Os resultados da pesquisa sobre o machismo no mundo dos vinhos serão divulgados em detalhes numa transmissão ao vivo nesta quinta-feira (11), no Instagram @marcelocopello e no seu site marcelocopello.com.“A revista italiana Gambero Rosso também vai publicar e, inspirada nessa iniciativa, pretende fazer uma pesquisa semelhante na Itália”, diz Copello. “Espero que inspire atitudes iguais em outros países e em outras indústrias fora do vinho.” | comida |
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] | Estão abertas as inscrições para o curso online “Nina Horta - Literatura de Sensações”, que propõe uma escavação arqueológica da obra da ex-colunista da Folha, morta em 2019, aos 80 anos.Produzido e ministrado pela jornalista especializada em gastronomia Luiza Fecarotta, colaborada do jornal, o curso de quatro aulas pretende identificar as várias camadas da literatura de Nina, capaz de evocar cheiro, temperatura, sabor e que resulta na criação de um novo jeito de pensar a comida.Seus livros “Não É Sopa” (de 1995, reeditado em 2020) e “O Frango Ensopado da Minha Mãe” (2014), ambos lançados pela Companhia das Letras, servem de fio condutor e seguem influenciando jornalistas, escritores e cozinheiros.Voltado a interessados e curiosos em comer, cozinhar, ler e escrever, o curso, que tem apoio da família da cronista, passeará ainda por autores como Antonio Candido, Rubem Braga, Walter Benjamin e Proust, e poetas como Adélia Prado, Manoel de Barros e Fernando Pessoa.Quem é Nina Horta e o que a sua literatura desperta Duas maneiras de apresentar Nina Horta; a crônica e suas particularidades; traços comuns desse gênero brasileiro na obra da autora; interpretação da comida por meio da memória Aula 2: Escrita dos sentidos A interferência da cultura nas vivências; a língua curiosa e a linguagem da cozinha de Nina Horta; a comida de alma e a comida perversa; a observação como ferramenta para construir ideiasAula 3: Riqueza narrativa Receita como narrativa; uma cozinheira entre livros e fogão; a utopia da receita inédita; roubar, adaptar, inventar; riqueza de detalhes x excessos; bons cozinheiros precisam ler romances Aula 4: Literatura de costumes As modas e as breguices gastronômicas; o exótico e o estrangeiro; o cozinheiro: técnica ou brilho nos olhos?; o esnobismo x arroz e feijão; cozinhar em casa é chique; a origem do que você comeCurso online Nina Horta - Literatura de Sensações De Luiza Fecarotta; online, pelo Zoom; R$ 380; inscrições abertas em www.aipim.etc.br; sempre às terças-feiras (23/2, 2/3, 9/3 e 16/3), das 19h às 20h30; contato: luiza.fecarotta@gmail.com | comida |
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] | O estrondo vinha de longe —ou essa era a impressão. O ronco tonitruante e contínuo interrompeu a palestra. Era uma oficina, oferecida pela Prefeitura, para pequenos agricultores da zona sul de São Paulo. Quanto ao ruído, pensei, era um avião.Jorge Ferreira, o orador, arregalou os olhos em deslumbre e perguntou: “Bugios?”. Roseilda Lima Duarte sorriu e assentiu com a cabeça.Os bugios, pequenos macacos que rugem como leões, são abundantes nas árvores que cercam o sítio de Rose. A pequena propriedade rural recebera outros agricultores para uma aula teórica e prática sobre a coleta de cogumelos silvestres comestíveis.Numa trilha de 100 metros, o grupo recolheu 31 espécies diferentes de cogumelos nos troncos e na serrapilheira —a matéria orgânica do chão. Destas, dez eram comestíveis.O sítio de Rose fica no Jaceguava, região de Parelheiros. É a zona sul profunda, rural e um tanto selvagem que sempre aparece, no aniversário de São Paulo, em reportagens sobre cachoeiras e tribos indígenas. Pois bem, aqui estamos outra vez, por acidente.A caça de cogumelos na cidade começou no Pacaembu, ao lado do estádio. É lá que o chef Leo Botto ronda praças e canteiros na companhia do pitbull Moreno.Botto, que fechou o restaurante Boto (com um tê só) na pandemia, percebeu a variedade de fungos na vizinhança e vislumbrou a possibilidade de usá-los na cozinha.Identificar cogumelos, contudo, é tarefa para quem estudou o tema. As espécies tóxicas são muitas, e ingeri-las pode ser letal. Para levar a cabo a exploração fúngica, o chef cercou-se de especialistas.Um desses é justamente Jorge Ferreira, o instrutor de Parelheiros. Jorge cresceu em Paraty (RJ) e desde pequeno se empenhou em catalogar os recursos da floresta. Seu trabalho ganhou a admiração de chefs como Helena Rizzo e Paola Carosella.“Caminhando em volta da casa do Léo, encontrei seis espécies de fungos comestíveis”, diz Ferreira sobre a primeira expedição com o chef. Cabe a distinção: comestível não é sinônimo de gostoso, significa apenas que não faz mal a quem come; os cogumelos bons para a alimentação são chamados de palatáveis.Das espécies encontradas na cidade de São Paulo —bioma Mata Atlântica coberto por asfalto, concreto e outras tralhas—, várias têm aplicação culinária.O Oudemansiella cubensis, sem nome vulgar, nasce em troncos e raízes de árvores. Tem textura delicada e notas aromáticas que remetem ao coco. O Favolus brasiliensis é rico em umami. O Lepista sordida só se torna comestível depois de cozido, quando fica com gosto de camarão.No rolê com Botto, encontramos alguns exemplares de Oudemansiella na praça Prefeito Paulo Lauro, habitada por galinhas selvagens —algo excepcional, de fato, mas tentemos manter o foco nos cogumelos.“Colho apenas os cogumelos que nascem no alto, nunca os do chão”, afirma o chef. Além das penosas, cães, gatos e outros animais menos fofos circulam livremente na paisagem urbana.O maior senão do cogumelo silvestre paulistano, porém, anda sobre rodas. “Cogumelos são como esponjas para metais pesados”, adverte Marcelo Sulzbacher, doutor em biologia de fungos pela Universidade de Santa Maria (RS), outro consultor de Botto. A poluição de áreas com muita circulação de carros transforma cogumelos em doses de veneno de efeito cumulativo.O Pacaembu, apesar de arborizado e tranquilo, fica na área central da cidade; já Parelheiros tem muitos problemas, mas a poluição atmosférica não é um deles. Lá, atrapalham a conexão precária com a cidade distante —são 40 km e 90 minutos de carro até a Praça da Sé— e a baixa margem de lucro das verduras plantadas pelos agricultores.A oficina foi parte de um programa que visa atenuar esses dois perrengues. O projeto Ligue os Pontos, da Prefeitura com financiamento filantrópico privado, capacita os roceiros da zona sul para que eles possam atender com profissionalismo a demanda da cidade ao norte.Tal demanda, apesar de ainda incipiente, já é maior do que a oferta. Existe uma elite de chefs que busca fornecedores locais de alimentos orgânicos e produtos nativos —frutas da Mata Atlântica, mel de abelhas sem ferrão e algumas ervas silvestres se encaixam nessa categoria. Os cogumelos são um passo além.“Cogumelos desidratados são pouco perecíveis e têm valor agregado altíssimo”, diz Ferreira. Mas ainda é longa a trilha que os agricultores de Parelheiros precisam percorrer até ganhar dinheiro com os funghi secchi paulistanos. “Para ter um volume rentável de produção, é preciso domesticar o cogumelo.”Domesticar significa encontrar um modo de cultivar em um ambiente mais ou menos controlado, ainda que no meio da floresta. Antes disso vem a identificação das espécies que tenham, ao mesmo tempo, aceitação comercial e viabilidade de cultivo. Tudo isso exige muita pesquisa.Dá para fazer e já foi feito no Amazonas. Os ianomâmi do Alto Rio Negro produzem e desidratam cogumelos que chegam à Casa Santa Luzia, nos Jardins, com etiqueta de R$ 25 no pacote de 15 gramas.Das espécies encontradas em São Paulo, o Oudemansiella cubensis é um forte candidato a mascote da gastronomia regional. Depois da coleta no Pacaembu, Leo Botto preparou o cogumelo numa receita ridiculamente simples.Besuntou o botão de fungo com óleo virgem de coco —para amplificar suas características naturais—, salpicou sal marinho e aplicou um fio de mel de jataí, levemente fermentado, que deu um toque de acidez. Delicioso e delicado.É a vanguarda da alta gastronomia 100% paulistana: cogumelo silvestre DOC Praça das Galinhas. | comida |
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] | Ainda jovem, a sateré-mawé Clarinda Ramos deixou a sua aldeia, no rio Andirá, para estudar na cidade de Barreirinha (AM). Sofreu com comentários preconceituosos, entre os quais contra o costume de comer formiga. Décadas depois, ela coordena a cozinha do Biatüwi, o primeiro restaurante indígena de Manaus.“Quando saímos da comunidade, não temos a noção de que o contato com o não indígena pode trazer um desequilíbrio. Acabamos deixando o que praticamos na aldeia. Hoje, entendo que é por causa do racismo e tenho argumentos. E a cozinha é uma reconstrução de tudo isso que deixamos de fazer. É emocionante”, afirma Ramos, 52.De terça a domingo, ela e sua equipe preparam centenas de formigas maniwaras e saúvas para os clientes, quase todos não indígenas. Levadas à mesa em cuias, elas acompanham a quinhapira, caldo de peixe com tucupi e pimenta, alimento tradicional dos povos habitantes do rio Negro.Também servido em uma cuia, o caldo é o carro-chefe do Biatüwi, que significa “casa da quinhapira” na língua tucano, povo que habita o Alto Rio Negro, no município de São Gabriel da Cachoeira, no noroeste do Amazonas."A pimenta é o ingrediente principal”, explica o antropólogo tucano João Paulo Barreto. Marido de Ramos, ele coordena o Centro de Medicina Indígena Bahserikowi’i, que funciona no mesmo local.“A pimenta era usada pelos demiurgos (deuses) com a função de limpar a contaminação dos alimentos e transformá-los em fontes proteicas, seja de peixe ou de carne de caça. Era também usado para limpar seus corpos e proteger-se das doenças, afastar a preguiça e sonolência e manter a memória e o apetite sexual ativados”, completa.O centro de medicina e a casa de comida indígena —como Barreto prefere chamar— estão abrigados em um amplo e bem conservado casarão antigo na rua Bernardo Ramos, de calçamento de pedra, amplas calçadas, arborizada e com fiação enterrada. Um oásis de urbanismo e silêncio no caótico e descuidado centro manauara.A decoração é minimalista, mas cheia de história. No teto, há lustres trançados em arumã (tipo de palha) por artesãos do povo baniwa. Os talheres são embalados em folhas, dispostos sobre esteiras com grafismo indígena. Para apoiar a cuia, uma base de sementes de tucumã, espécie de palmeira. Nos cantos, prateleiras com peças de artesanato e medicina tradicional, para venda.A maior parte dos ingredientes, incluindo a pimenta e as formigas, é trazida do rio Tiquié, no Alto Rio Negro, onde Barreto nasceu. Para chegar até São Gabriel, são até quatro dias de rabeta (barco de baixa potência).É preciso descarregar e carregar três vezes para atravessar corredeiras. Na cidade, são despachados em barcos maiores. E mais três dias de viagem até Manaus.De todos os ingredientes, o mais delicado é o japurá, preparado na comunidade São Domingo Sálvio, onde Barreto nasceu. É preciso colher a fruta no igapó (floresta inundada), pilar a polpa, colocar a massa em um tubo de palha e enterrar na terra por dois a três meses. Com um detalhe crucial, confidencia Barreto: “A pessoa que está cuidando do processo não pode soltar gás”.O tempero é usado na mujeca (wai pêke, em tucano), o único outro prato oferecido no cardápio além da quinhapira, que tem uma versão vegetariana com batata roxa e cará roxo.Quanto às bebidas, as opções incluem o aluá, fermentado de abacaxi, e o xibé, uma mistura de farinha com açaí, buriti ou bacaba.Há também o guaraná natural raspado na língua de pirarucu, representante no cardápio do povo sateré-mawé, que habita o Baixo Rio Amazonas, a centenas de quilômetros de São Gabriel da Cachoeira.O restaurante é um sonho antigo do casal e de outros indígenas que gravitam em torno do centro de medicina. Em um passado recente, eles ofereciam a comida tradicional uma vez por mês, em almoços.Mas o projeto só ganhou forma no ano passado, graças a uma parceria com o badalado restaurante Caxiri, da chef Debora Shornik. Durante meses, os indígenas assumiram a cozinha aos sábados à noite para preparar a quinhapira, enquanto aprendiam sobre como gerenciar o negócio.Ao mesmo tempo, Shornik e seu sócio, o empresário paulista Ruy Tone, mobilizaram uma campanha de doações para equipar a cozinha do Biatüwi. Com tudo pronto, o espaço foi inaugurado em 14 de novembro.Coordenadora da cozinha, formada em pedagogia e na reta final de um mestrado em antropologia pela Universidade Federal do Amazonas, Ramos considera a abertura do Biatüwi mais uma etapa vencida. “O período de preconceito está superado. Não me arrepia mais quando alguém fala que sou indígena. Estamos aqui oferecendo nossa comida para um público diferente. Isso nos fortalece.”PIMENTA O restaurante utiliza um pó com cerca de dez variedades de pimenta, como a jiquitaiaMATRINXÃ De sabor suave, este peixe de escamas e tamanho médio é um dos mais apreciados da região amazônica.JAPURÁ Pequena fruta marrom, ácida e terrosa, é a matéria-prima de uma massa usada como tempero na mujeca, um caldo com peixe desfiado.TUCUPI PRETO Sumo da raiz da mandioca. Geralmente amarela, nesta variação a goma não é extraída. Caldo denso e amargo, apelidado de “shoyu da Amazônia”.MANIWARA Formiga vermelha de sabor suave e levemente apimentado consumida no Alto Rio Negro e no Baixo Amazonas Restaurante Biatüwi - Casa da Pimenta Rua Bernardo Ramos, 97, Centro, Manaus, Amazonas, tel. (92) 98832-8408 das 11h30 às 15h (ter. a dom.) e das 19h às 21h (qui. a sáb.). Instagram: biatuwi_casa_de_quinhapira | comida |
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] | Dizem que Tim Maia, depois de uma dieta rigorosa, disse: “Em duas semanas, perdi 14 dias”.Eu me senti como o Tim ao trocar comida de verdade por um preparado em pó chamado Foodz. Alegadamente, o tal pó reúne todos os nutrientes de que o corpo precisa para funcionar com saúde.Não se trata de um produto para dietas. É algo para quem não quer perder tempo comendo. Um substituto possível das refeições. Em definição menos lisonjeira, uma espécie de ração para seres humanos. Eu inventei de ser cobaia da coisa.O Foodz vem em garrafas de plástico transparente com 125 gramas de pó. Diluída em meio litro de água, a fórmula se transforma numa bebida grossa com três opções de sabor: chocolate, cappuccino e tomate com manjericão.Encomendei, no site da empresa, duas caixas mistas com um total de 24 garrafas. A tabela nutricional informa que uma dose fornece 24% das calorias diárias recomendadas. Logo, eu teria estoque suficiente para seis dias de quatro, bem, “refeições” cada —uma semana bíblica, com descanso no sétimo dia.Comecei o projeto numa quarta-feira pela manhã, logo ao acordar. Para começar o dia, cappuccino. Primeiro problema: a bagaça não mistura direito. Por mais que eu sacudisse a garrafa como uma coqueteleira cheia de pisco sour, sobravam muitos grumos.Beber é desagradável. O líquido grosso e empelotado tem forte gosto de gordura vegetal. É doce, muito doce —resultado da presença do adoçante sintético sucralose. Não há nada que lembre café. Demorei oito minutos para tomar tudo. Comeria fácil quatro pedaços de pizza nesse tempo.O almoço, engolido no fim da tarde, foi pó de tomate com manjericão. Definitivamente, o mais detestável dos três sabores. A sucralose é uma nota persistente, que não sai nem na escovação. Credo.As quatro garrafas diárias se converteram em duas. Eu sofria ao pensar que precisaria beber aquilo outra vez em breve. Era melhor dormir com um pouco de fome.Para ser justo com o Foodz, a sensação de saciedade persiste como o gosto da sucralose. Não mata a vontade de comer, mas mata a fome. No dia seguinte, provei o de chocolate. Como esperava, o mais tranquilo de todos. Parece chocolate barato, de baixa qualidade: uma mistura doce de castanhas, gordura de coco e algo de cacau.Conheci o Foodz por uma mensagem que Morgan Dierstein, o criador da marca, me enviou no Linkedin —a mais abandonada das minhas redes sociais. Ele descreveu o produto como “parecido com a Soylent dos Estados Unidos”.Soylent é uma ração humana inventada em 2013 por Rob Rhineheart, um engenheiro de computação do Vale do Silício, na Califórnia.Ele não queria interromper o trabalho para comer. Então, pesquisou a composição de uma refeição nutritiva e comprou os 35 elementos necessários —muitos deles, produtos químicos que nada têm a ver com cozinha.O nome do produto norte-americano foi tirado de “Soylent Green”, filme de distopia futurista lançado em 1973. Na obra, apenas os ricos têm acesso à comida de verdade. Todo o resto se alimenta de uma ração que, descobre-se no final, é feita de cadáveres humanos.No Brasil, o título de “Soylent Green” virou “No Mundo de 2020”. Adequado.Procurei Morgan para uma entrevista. Esperava falar com um farialimer, mas era um francês de Paris. Como tal, apaixonado por comida. Que frequenta o Chez Claude, restaurante de Claude Troisgros, para reencontrar os sabores de sua terra.Por que um cara assim se meteu nesse negócio?Morgan buscou desfazer a comparação com o Soylent —“uma visão muito triste”. Disse que a proposta do Foodz não é substituir a comida, como uma ração, mas ser uma opção prática e saudável quando é impossível uma refeição nos conformes.“Não consigo comer besteira”, contou o empreendedor. “Queria algo nutritivo, para me sentir saciado sem digerir uma coxinha por quatro horas.”Já o site do produto afirma que comer apenas Foodz o dia todo, no café, no almoço e no jantar não tem contraindicações nem oferece riscos “do ponto de vista nutricional”.Mandei a lista de ingredientes para o professor Carlos Monteiro, coordenador do Nupens —Núcleo de Pesquisas Epidemiológicas em Nutrição e Saúde, da USP. Ele me respondeu com um “afe!”.“É um monte de nutricionismo, pseudociência”, disse. O nutricionismo é um sofisma —aceito por muitos profissionais de saúde– que propõe a falsa equivalência entre o alimento e a soma de seus nutrientes.Se uma maçã fosse decomposta em açúcar, fibra e mais 118 substâncias, um adepto do nutricionismo buscaria esses 120 componentes, vários sintetizados em laboratório, para replicar a maçã. Mas não funciona assim. A alimentação é algo muito mais complexo do que uma conta de adição.Aos poucos, descobri macetes para deixar a rotina mais tolerável. Gelei a bebida no limite da estupidez. O curso de sommelier de cerveja me ensinou: o frio anestesia o paladar. É ruim para as boas cervejas; assaz conveniente para as ruins —e para o Foodz.Outra coisa que aprendi com a cerveja —em particular, com as competições de chope por metro— foi engolir grandes volumes de líquido sem intervalo para respirar. O shake de ração agora descia todo em um minuto ou dois.Incluí na dieta café e limonada gasosa, ambos sem adoçar. Trapaceei de leve ao turbinar com cacau em pó as garrafas de sabores cappuccino e chocolate —não precisei tomar mais as de tomate, aleluia!E, para exercitar a mandíbula, retomei depois de uma década o hábito de mascar chiclete.Quinta e sexta-feira transcorreram suaves comigo em casa, sozinho, triste e resignado. No sábado, encontrei a família em Atibaia. Resisti bravamente à macarronada do jantar, sentado à mesa com garrafa plástica em punho.No almoço de domingo, capitulei. A churrasqueira foi mais forte. Não dá para resistir a um churrasco. Foram quatro dias e uma manhã à base do tal Foodz. Na lógica de Tim Maia, ganhei dois dias —dos seis que eu já tinha dado por perdidos.O que é Um preparado em pó que se propõe a substituir uma refeição completaIngredientes Principais Maltodextrina (carboidrato extraído de vegetais como milho, arroz ou batata) Proteína de girassol Fibra de milho Óleo de girassol Triglicerídeos de cadeia média (TCM, uma espécie de gordura) Sucralose (adoçante sintético)A nutrição* Valor calórico 24% Carboidratos 21%-22% Proteínas 33%-34% Gorduras totais 29%-30% Gorduras saturadas 29%-30% Fibras 33%-34% Sódio 2%-4% Vitaminas 34%-35% *dos valores diários recomendados (VD), em uma garrafaUma garrafa pronta contém 125 gramas de pó 500 mililitros de águaQuanto custa R$ 24,90, uma garrafa de Foodz www.foodz.store | comida |
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] | É raro um restaurante completar 40 anos de idade em São Paulo. Mais ainda quando se mantém décadas no auge da popularidade. Caso do Famiglia Mancini, no centro da cidade.Inaugurado em 10 de maio de 1980, ele nasceu sem um plano claro de como se estabelecer —mas foi um sucesso imediato graças a uma casualidade, conta o proprietário Walter Mancini, hoje com 78 anos.Na época endividado, trabalhando como garçom, comprou o ponto da pizzaria Zi Tereza meio por impulso, com dinheiro emprestado. Ficava numa área efervescente da cidade, na rua Avanhandava, próximo à rua Nestor Pestana e a referências da boemia como a cantina Gigetto, para onde rumavam os artistas e público de teatros como o TBC e o Maria Della Costa, mais a clientela de outras áreas artísticas, pois ali perto ficavam as TVs Excelsior e Record.No primeiro dia no seu primeiro restaurante, com a casa fechada e sem funcionários, horas depois de receber as chaves, Mancini viu uma turma assomar à porta. Lelia Abramo, grande atriz que também presidia o sindicato da categoria, chegava com uma comitiva depois de um desentendimento na casa ao lado, o sempre lotado Gigetto.Sendo conhecido da turma, Mancini improvisou o jantar junto com os atores (que além disso fizeram uma vaquinha para ajudá-lo neste começo). E seu restaurante tornou-se uma nova referência para o mundo do teatro em São Paulo.Filho único de mãe analfabeta, nascido num cortiço próximo ao Mercado Central, desde os dez anos Mancini fizera bicos nas ruas e no Mercadão. Mas aos 17 anos passou a trabalhar na noite, em boates do centro (como Ton-Ton e Cave).Fez produção de shows, iluminação, sonoplastia, administração; foi bailarino, foi DJ. Ao mesmo tempo frequentava as cantinas tradicionais, levado por um tio que cantava canções napolitanas nos restaurantes.Afora uma inovação (a mesa de antepastos cobrada por quilo), o Famiglia Mancini seguia o filão das cantinas sem cozinha notável, mas honesta, farta, barata (e no seu caso, contando com o molho preparado por sua mãe, Mariannina, que já fornecia massas para cantinas históricas como a Balilla).Com o dinheiro que ganhou com as filas intermináveis de clientes, terminou “adotando” a rua Avanhandava, onde havia morado, chegando a reurbanizar, tornando atração turística aquele trecho cenográfico com calçadas planas, palco a céu aberto, luzes coloridas e chafariz.Naquela época, ano 2000, abriu em frente o Il Ristorante Walter Mancini, de ambiente e menu italiano mais sofisticado e jazz ao vivo. Depois vieram a pizzaria Famiglia Mancini; o Madreperola, de cozinha do mar; a lanchonete Migalhas.As casas empregam 380 pessoas que antes da pandemia serviam mais de 35 mil refeições por mês —usando uma tonelada de tomates (por dia!), uma tonelada de camarões por mês, outro tanto de polvo —90% disso somente para a casa-mãe.Nesta os pratos mais pedidos são —como em qualquer cantina paulistana— lasanha e filé à parmigiana, seguidos de longe por spaghetti com frutos do mar e perna de cabrito ao forno com batatas e brócolis.Hoje, na lenta retomada, Mancini atende 5.000 pessoas por mês. Durante a pandemia não houve demissões, houve investimento (por exemplo, a reforma do Walter Mancini): voluntarista, o empresário vive imerso em dívidas milionárias (“já que tenho credibilidade e crédito, eu uso”) mas não abandona seus projetos.Nos 130 metros do quarteirão que tem sua cara também funcionam sua papelaria/loja de arte Calligraphia (ele é um calígrafo primoroso), o brechó Gato Bravo Vintage Shop de sua filha Rachel, e seu ateliê.Como “devo tudo ao mundo do teatro” (diz ele), Mancini nunca deixou de apoiar a área, chegando a criar o Piccolo Teatro, um palco profissional aberto para a rua, onde peças e músicas gratuitas são apresentadas. Música, aliás, não falta por ali: o restaurante Walter Mancini tem um belo palco para jazz e bossa-nova, e suas várias casas dão sustento a cerca de 30 músicos.Neto de italianos da Puglia, casado há 38 anos, três filhos, religioso, atleta, abstêmio (“já bebi muito mais do que devia”), workaholic (quase não dorme), Mancini é um homem de sete instrumentos.Também poeta, mas com especial paixão pelas artes plásticas. Autor de elegantes telas, minuciosamente pontilhadas com delicados elementos gráficos e caligráficos, ele decora seus restaurantes com objetos e esculturas próprias que dão uma finesse inesperada a quem imaginasse um ambiente cantineiro.O argentino Quino (1932-2020), criador da Mafalda, levou um quadro seu; “ele disse que meu traço lembra Steinberg, e que invejava meu uso das cores”, diz, com orgulho. Seu restaurante, aliás, é adornado por retratos dele e sua turma desenhados pelo artista Ziraldo.A revitalização do centro da cidade, assunto hoje em voga, teve um precursor em Walter Mancini —que sempre recusou convites para migrar para os Jardins, expandindo seus negócios no rincão onde nasceu.Por coincidência, quando ele inaugurava o Famiglia Mancini, não longe dali engatinhava uma menina que também nasceu pobre perto do mesmo Mercadão da sua infância, e que desde criança, como ele, trabalhava nas imediações. Chamava-se Janaína e hoje, com seu marido Jefferson Rueda e seus restaurantes (A Casa do Porco, Bar da Dona Onça), é pilar da mesma luta por preservar o centro de São Paulo.Quando os Rueda se casaram em 2005, quem desenhou o convite foi Walter Mancini. Como que selando uma aliança tácita em torno de um sonho que cada um realiza a seu modo. No caso de Mancini, desdobrando-se em muitas paixões e artes —das quais a culinária abriu caminho para inscrever seu nome na cidade. | comida |
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] | O que é coquetelaria brasileira e como preparar drinques com ingredientes nacionais é o tema do Ao Vivo Em Casa, série de lives da Folha que recebe Néli Pereira, mixologista e pesquisadora de ingredientes brasileiros. O bate-papo acontece nesta sexta (30), às 17h e será transmitido nesta página e no canal da Folha no YouTube, com mediação da jornalista Marília Miragaia. Néli Pereira percorreu o Brasil estudando raízes, cascas e plantas das populares garrafadas, misturas usadas com fins medicinais no Norte e Nordeste. Nos últimos anos, especializou-se em receitas de drinques brasileiros e que usam itens como cataia, catuaba, puxuri e até boldo.Na conversa, a mixologista também fala sobre a oferta de bebidas no mercado nacional —a tradicional cachaça, vermutes e gins com fórmulas brasileiras— e explica como usá-los em receitas fáceis de reproduzir em casa.Além de drinques, entra em discussão o consumo de álcool depois da chegada da Covid-19: como controlar a quantidade ingerida e quais alertas de que você pode estar exagerando.O Ao Vivo em Casa é transmitido no site da Folha e também em seu canal no YouTube, em que é possível mandar perguntas para os entrevistados. | comida |
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] | Às margens do rio Tapajós, em Santarém, município paraense, o chef Saulo Jennings, do restaurante Casa do Saulo, prepara o que chama de cozinha tapajônica, uma tradução da identidade alimentar daquele território —marcado pelo rio, pelos costumes indígenas e pela agricultura familiar.Para Saulo, essa é uma das cozinhas que convivem dentro da floresta amazônica, que mudam de uma região para a outra, dentro e fora do Brasil. Essa pluralidade é o tema do Ao Vivo Em Casa, série de lives que nesta sexta-feira (2) trata de gastronomia e será transmitida nesta página e no canal da Folha no YouTube. A mediação é da jornalista Marília Miragaia. Saulo é parte da programação do 23° Festival Cultura e Gastronomia Pró-Tiradentes que vai até dia 4 com 250 atrações digitais. Mas quem estiver em São Paulo, Belo Horizonte e Rio também pode pedir comidas preparadas pelos cozinheiros participantes.Além da Casa do Saulo, o chef também dirige um restaurante na capital paraense na Casa das Onze Janelas, um complexo cultural e histórico de Belém. Nos dois restaurantes, ele usa ingredientes de mais de 80 fornecedores de agricultura familiar —o que também será tema da conversa, assim como o impacto das queimadas na produção de comida.O Ao Vivo em Casa é transmitido no site da Folha e também em seu canal no YouTube, onde é possível mandar perguntas para os entrevistados. | comida |
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] | Boa notícias: temos mais dois restaurantes com duas estrelas no Guia Michelin no país, o paulistano Ryo e o carioca Oteque. Agora são quatro, com o D.O.M., em São Paulo, e o Oro, no Rio.Má notícia: seguimos sem representantes três estrelas, a classificação máxima do guia centenário.Além disso, nenhum endereço novo foi incluído na constelação de estrelas do Michelin brasileiro. No total, o Brasil reúne 14 casas estreladas: dez com uma e quatro com duas.O chef Edson Yamashita, do japonês Ryo, comemora a novidade. “É um objetivo que eu tinha traçado depois que eu fechei a casa para reforma, no ano passado. Agora, com a segunda estrela, é hora de dar a partida para buscar a terceira”, disse.Depois da reformulação, o Ryo só serve menu degustação e diminuiu a capacidade de 50 para apenas oito clientes. Ainda fechada pela quarentena, a casa deve reabrir em duas semanas.Comandado pelo chef Alberto Landgraf, que fez fama em São Paulo com o Epice, o carioca Oteque destaca os peixes e frutos do mar. Essas são as novidades da edição 2020 do mais importante guia de restaurantes do mundo, anunciadas na noite desta sexta (25) em evento adaptado para o novo normal dos tempos de pandemia: com uma live transmitida no canal da publicação no YouTube.O evento virtual conectou Brasil e França, com a apresentadora Didi Wagner fazendo os anúncios do Copacabana Palace, no Rio de Janeiro, junto a Gwendal Poullennec, o diretor internacional da publicação, de Paris.Até a conhecida capa vermelha da brochura ficou no passado. Neste ano, a publicação ficará disponível exclusivamente no aplicativo do Guia Michelin Brasil, disponível gratuitamente para Android e iOS.O Brasil é o único país da América Latina coberto pelo Michelin, que avalia restaurantes de São Paulo e do Rio de Janeiro.Talvez a maior falta diga respeito ao Tuju, duas estrelas no ano passado e que deixou de figurar em 2020 —a casa está com as portas fechadas e pretende reabrir apenas no final do próximo ano.Três restaurante saíram da publicação, pois tinham uma estrela e a perderam. São dois paulistanos, o Kosushi e o Tangará Jean-Georges, e um carioca, o Olympe. Com cozinha comandada por Thomas Troisgros, o Olympe passa por situação semelhante ao do Tuju. Fechou as portas devido à pandemia e, agora, deve voltar em novo formato, ainda sem previsão de data.Já a categoria Bib Gourmand, que elege estabelecimentos de “excelente relação qualidade/preço”, lista, agora, 39 opções —dez delas, novas.Do Rio de Janeiro, são novidades o Didier e o Maria e o Boi. Das casas paulistanas, entraram AE! Cozinha, Ama.zo, Banzeiro, Cepa, Charco, Kith 2º Andar, Nit e Più Iguatemi. Saíram da seleção os paulistanos Jiquitaia e La Peruana, além do carioca Pomodorino. Os dois últimos encerraram as atividades.O Jiquitaia, por sua vez, mudou de endereço em agosto —saiu da região do Baixo Augusta e se mudou para o Paraíso.Em 2019, os destaques haviam sido os cariocas Oteque e Cipriani, além do paulistano Evvai, que conquistaram a primeira estrela no Guia. Também houve duas baixas naquele ano, com os restaurantes Fasano e Dalva e Dito, de São Paulo, deixando a lista.Para fazer a avaliação, os inspetores visitam anonimamente os estabelecimentos, avaliando receitas com base em cinco critérios. São eles: qualidade do ingrediente, personalidade do chef, técnicas de cozimento e harmonia de sabores, custo-benefício e, finalmente, regularidade.No evento de anúncio da seleção de 2020, a apresentadora Didi Wagner afirmou que as visitas para avaliação foram feitas antes da pandemia.As cotações podem ser três estrelas (cozinha excepcional), duas estrelas (excelente) e uma estrela (requintada).O guia foi criado pelos irmãos Edouard e André Michelin em 1900, na França, com informações de onde abastecer e consertar o carro, onde comer e se hospedar. * Conquistaram 2 estrelas Ryo (SP) Oteque (RJ)Mantiveram 2 estrelas* D.O.M. (SP) Oro (RJ)Mantiveram 1 estrelaSÃO PAULO Evvai Huto Jun Sakamoto Kan Suke Kinoshita Maní PicchiRIO DE JANEIRO Cipriani Lasai MeePerderam a estrela Kosushi (SP) Tangará Jean-Georges (SP) Olympe (RJ)Bib Gourmand (bom e barato)Entraram na categoria AE! Cozinha (SP) Ama.zo (SP) Banzeiro (SP) Cepa (SP) Charco (SP) Kith 2º Andar (SP) Nit (SP) Più Iguatemi (SP) Didier (RJ) Maria e o Boi (RJ) Agora, integram a categoria Bib Gourmand 39 endereços como A Casa do Porco (SP), Artigiano (RJ), Arturito (SP), Manioca (SP), Komah (SP), Lilia (RJ), Mocotó (SP), Pici Trattoria (RJ) e Tordesilhas (SP). Saiu da lista o restaurante paulistano Jiquitaia, além de dois que fecharam: La Peruana (SP) e Pomodorino (RJ) * | comida |
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] | A morte, nesta quarta (23), do grande chef Pierre Troisgros, 92, em sua casa em Le Coteau (França), encerra um capítulo (mas não a história) da memória viva de um ciclo fantástico da cozinha francesa e mundial, o do renovador movimento da nouvelle cuisine, nos anos 1970.Vitimado por um infarto na tarde de hoje (manhã no Brasil), Troisgros, pai do chef e apresentador de TV Claude Troisgros, radicado no Brasil, foi um dos líderes daquele movimento que agora tem como último protagonista vivo o chef Michel Guérard. Da turma de inquietos inovadores faziam parte também nomes como Paul Bocuse (o mais famoso), Alain Chapel, Alain Senderens e Roger Vergé. Foram os precursores da leva seguinte de grandes nomes, da qual o mais notável foi Joël Robuchon, também já falecido (em 2018). Se Bocuse era o mais esfuziante da turma, precursor das vaidosas aparições pelo salão do seu restaurante em Lyon (e das fotos em pose altiva, quase um imperador), Pierre Troisgros, seu amigo por setenta anos, ostentava a imagem contrária: exalava simpatia, simplicidade, sempre com ar de tio querido ou de avô protetor.Mas tinha tudo para se orgulhar de sua trajetória. Ainda jovem assumiu, junto com seu irmão mais velho, Jean (que morreu precocemente em 1983), o restaurante de seu pai Jean Baptiste em Roanne, o Hôtel Moderne, que foi fundado nos anos 1930 e que eles mais tarde renomearam Les Frères Troisgros, em 1957.Ali conquistaram a primeira estrela no guia francês Michelin em 1955. A segunda estrela veio dez anos depois; e a terceira (a cotação máxima) chegou em 1968, e nunca mais saiu ao longo dos últimos 52 anos. Foi nos anos 1970 que, com seus colegas, os dois Troisgros embarcaram na aventura de renovar a pesada e classicona cozinha francesa.Passaram a reduzir o número de componentes de cada prato, realçar o sabor de cada ingrediente, fazer molhos mais leves, esmerar a apresentação de uma forma menos barroca e mais japonesa. Encantaram os críticos da revista e guia Gault&Millau, que descreveram o movimento como a "nouvelle cuisine française" e decretaram que seu restaurante era o melhor do mundo."Tive, com meu irmão Jean, a sorte de evoluir num período muito criativo, em seguida ao pós-guerra mas também na posterior alta do poder aquisitivo do público. O interesse da clientela pela cozinha também foi estimulante. Daí veio o fenômeno da 'nouvelle cuisine', que pregava a leveza dos pratos", contou-me Pierre em 2006.Desde 2017 seu restaurante, que fez história numa localização improvável (em frente à estação de trem da insossa cidade de Roanne), funciona em Ouches, a dez quilômetros dali —o nome atual é Maison Troisgros. . Ele é um exemplo vivo de uma história que Pierre Troisgros viveu e levou para os filhos.Da mesma forma que, com seu irmão, ele assumira o restaurante dos pais, já há anos é seu filho Michel quem agora comanda a cozinha, ladeado pelo neto César.Uma história que presenciamos no Brasil: seu filho Claude foi trazido por seu espírito aventureiro ao Rio de Janeiro em 1979, mas aqui também assumiu a função de cozinheiro (abrindo inclusive esta semana um restaurante em São Paulo, Chez Claude) —e igualmente transmitiu ao filho Thomas o amor pela cozinha.Aliás, da mesma forma que o jovem Pierre e seu irmão, antes de assumir o restaurante da família, foram treinar em grandes casas de grandes chefs da França (como o La Pyramide, do mítico chef Fernand Point, e o Maxim's de Paris), também Claude e Michel fizeram seu "tour de France" em casas como as de Paul Bocuse e Gaston Lenôtre antes de voltarem à Roanne natal.O fio da tradição tem se mantido, assim, literalmente de pai para filho, há quatro gerações. | comida |
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] | “Acabaram as brigas sobre uva-passa no arroz do Natal: neste ano não tem arroz.” Esse foi um dos memes, entre os bem humorados e os mais raivosos, que circularam na última semana sobre o aumento no preço do produto no Brasil, que acumulou alta de 19% no ano, de acordo com o IBGE. O surgimento das piadas na internet é simbólico: o ingrediente, presente em mesas de todas as regiões do país (com menor intensidade no norte), é um elemento fundamental da cozinha brasileira —o que engrossa a intensidade das reações com a ameaça de sua ausência ou encarecimento. Em momentos de restrição econômica, como o atual, a estratégia usual do brasileiro é recorrer a componentes mais acessíveis para acompanhar a mistura de arroz com feijão, diz o sociólogo Carlos Alberto Dória. Deixam o prato carnes como a de frango ou bovina, e entram itens mais baratos, como ovos, abóbora, chuchu. Na ausência deste cereal, a base da equação fica comprometida. “Arroz e feijão é aquilo ao qual você agrega complementos. Se você desestrutura essa composição, desestrutura a refeição. Mesmo que adicione alguma outra coisa, vai ficar a sensação de falta”, diz o pesquisador. O arroz é o principal representante do grupo dos cereais no Brasil, proporcionando uma refeição equilibrada em dupla com o feijão, segundo o Guia Alimentar para a População Brasileira. Mesmo elogiado dentro e fora do Brasil, o documento acaba de sofrer pedido de revisão e foi desqualificado por nota enviada pelo Mapa (Ministério da Agricultura, Pecuária e Abastecimento) ao Ministério da Saúde —o órgão, porém, afirma não ter recebido a solicitação. Como está enraizado aos hábitos, é difícil para as pessoas, principalmente em centros urbanos, conseguirem visualizar suas refeições e buscarem substitutos a ele, afirma Letícia Massula, chef e pesquisadora de cozinha brasileira. “O arroz já está muito incorporado ao nosso repertório. Sem ele, o que vai ser colocado no lugar? Macarrão ou pão industrializado, que são mais pobres do ponto de vista nutricional. É uma perda grande”, diz Massula.A falta do cereal também pode assumir outros significados, diz Elaine de Azevedo, socióloga da alimentação. “O sumiço do arroz é o sumiço da própria brasilidade e da soberania, chegando a um alimento que afeta todas as classes. É um simbolismo forte entender que o arroz está fora do país hoje”, diz ela, que apresenta o podcast Panela de Impressão. O grão é um dos produtos agrícolas que bateram preços recordes devido, entre outros fatores, ao grande volume de exportações, impulsionado pela desvalorização do real. Ao lado do trigo, ele é um dos cereais mais cultivados do mundo. Mas, ao contrário do feijão, que esteve presente na dieta desde o início da vida colonial no Brasil, o arroz teve sua difusão tardia, depois do século 18, com a chegada da corte portuguesa, explica o livro “Formação da Culinária Brasileira”(ed. Três Estrelas; 280 págs.), de Carlos Alberto Dória. Investigador da cozinha brasileira, Luís da Câmara Cascudo (1898-1986) diz em “História da Alimentação no Brasil” (ed. Global, 972 págs.; R$ 91) que o brasileiro come arroz indiferentemente e que esse cereal não pode competir com a farinha de mandioca ou o milho —raiz e grão já domesticados no continente sul-americano entre dez mil e sete mil anos atrás. Aliás, se estamos falando de cereais, “é simbólico a gente ter dificuldade de olhar para o milho e enxergá-lo como substituto do arroz. A gente perdeu o milho há muito tempo e isso também é emblemático”, diz Elaine de Azevedo, socióloga. Uma explicação para o arroz ter perdido sua neutralidade foi sua associação ao feijão. Mas há quem discorde dessa condição imparcial. Para a chef Mara Salles, do Tordesilhas, em São Paulo, um erro que não se pode admitir é diminuir a importância do preparo do arroz. “Por que o arroz não pode ser feito de forma excepcional, para que fique soltinho e saboroso? Em geral, as pessoas menosprezam o preparo, como se fosse um elemento de encher a barriga. Desde sempre, aprendi que o arroz e feijão têm status de prato principal. E se a base é o arroz, ela precisa ser bem feita”, diz. Tanto é que Mara criou uma técnica própria, que ensinou em aulas e no livro “400g - Técnicas de Cozinha” (ed. Companhia Editora Nacional; 576 págs.). O método começa com lavar o grão e deixá-lo bem sequinho, exclui o uso da cebola e exige atenção para regular a intensidade do fogo durante o preparo. Foi depois de uma das demonstrações sobre o preparo, em São Miguel Paulista, extremo da zona leste de São Paulo, que Mara disse ter ouvido uma das frases que mais marcaram sua carreira: “o arroz ficou soltinho lá em casa. E, agora, eu nunca mais joguei fora”, disse uma aluna. | comida |
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] | Sair do básico, evitar o pedido no delivery e economizar dinheiro na cozinha não é tão difícil quanto pode parecer. As estratégias para isso serão o tema do Ao Vivo Em Casa, série de lives da Folha que nesta sexta-feira (4) recebe a chef e apresentadora Letícia Massula, cozinheira desde a década de 1970.A live será transmitida nesta página e no canal da Folha no YouTube e terá mediação da jornalista Marília Miragaia. Além de dicas de compra, preparos e ingredientes, a conversa também vai discutir o uso de alimentos ultraprocessados, divisão do trabalho doméstico e formas de comprar diretamente do produtor —e como tudo isso influencia nos gastos com comida.Letícia Massula comandou o projeto Cozinha da Mathilde, um espaço de cursos e restaurante itinerante em sua própria casa em São Paulo e trabalhou à frente do Açougue Feed, onde especializou-se no preparo de carnes. Há três anos vive em Pirenópolis, em Goiás, onde pesquisa e escreve sobre ingredientes e tradições brasileiras.A chef também é apresentadora de duas séries disponíveis na Amazon Prime, a “Receitas Brasil” e “Prato do Dia”. Nessa última, a cada episódio, ela vai ao mercado fazer compras com um tema e um valor fixos para mostrar jeitinhos de cozinhar com orçamento limitado.O Ao Vivo em Casa é transmitido no site da Folha e também em seu canal no YouTube, onde é possível mandar perguntas para os entrevistados. | comida |
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] | O Noma, considerado um dos melhores restaurantes do mundo, reabriu suas portas na quinta-feira (21) —mas mudado, na forma de um bar ao ar livre, substituindo suas refeições por hambúrgueres que custam a partir de 125 coroas dinamarquesas (cerca de R$ 100).Com duas estrelas Michelin, a casa geralmente geralmente exige reservas pré-pagas feitas com meses de antecedência. Fechado desde março por causa da pandemia do novo coronavírus, o local se valeu da diminuição das restrições e do isolamento na Dinamarca para reabrir reconfigurado.São dois os lanches servidos, o Noma Cheeseburger e uma versão vegetariana, servidos das 13h às 21h, de quinta a domingo. No total, há espaço para 65 pessoas no jardim.De acordo com o anúncio oficial do local, o bar ao ar livre montado nos jardins do restaurante não trabalha com o modelo de reservas. Ainda não há data para reabertura do restaurante com seu funcionamento regular. | comida |
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] | O premiado chef Patrick O’Connell escolheu uma maneira excêntrica de respeitar o distanciamento social e retomar as atividades de seu luxuoso restaurante, o Inn at Little Washington, no estado da Virginia, nos EUA. Ele preencheu as cadeiras e mesas vazias do salão de jantar com manequins.Os bonecos têm tamanho real, usam peruca e são maquiados. Eles vestem trajes elegantes e coloridos da década de 1940, do período pós-guerra —ternos listrados, vestidos de renda e colares de pérola —e imitam gestos tipicamente humanos. Um se ajoelha diante da namorada (como que para pedi-la em casamento em uma típica cena hollywoodiana). Outro está cabisbaixo, parece pensativo, talvez triste.Dotados de olhos pintados onde estaria o globo ocular de uma pessoa, os manequins olham em diferentes direções, como se fizessem parte de uma fotografia antiga onde podemos adentrar, escolher beber um vinho da seleta carta do Inn e experimentar uma refeição prestigiada com três estrelas Michelin.O estado da Virginia irá retomar o comércio, com reabertura de bares e restaurantes, no dia 29 de maio. Mas o chef Patrick O’Connell começou a se preparar para o momento muito antes.Formado em arte cênicas e conhecido por sua especial atenção ao detalhe e gosto performático, ainda no início do mês, ele encomendou os figurinos do século passado para o teatro Shirlington’s Signature.Os funcionários do restaurante são orientados a interagir normalmente com as pessoas de plástico. Os manequins serão cumprimentados com cordialidade e servidos de vinho, como os clientes humanos. À emissora Fox News, o chef justificou sua escolha afirmando que todos queremos estar acompanhados, não “necessariamente por pessoas reais”.Seu restaurante não foi o único no mundo a adotar medidas do tipo.Na Tailândia, o restaurante de gastronomia vietnamita, Maison Saigon, está usando pandas de pelúcia para instruir os clientes sobre as medidas de distanciamento.O proprietário Natthwut Rodchanapanthkul afirma que a medida é pedagógica (não é tão teatral quanto o caso de O’Connell). Ele percebeu que a clientela ficava confusa com decisões outrora mais simples —como onde se sentar em um restaurante.Mas, assim como O’Connell, sua iniciativa também considera a vontade pela companhia. Para ele, os pandas podem amenizar a sensação de isolamento de quem está desacompanhado.O cliente Sawit Chaiphuek, 25, confirmou que a estratégia funciona.Ao sair pela primeira vez em meses para jantar, sozinho, gostou de encontrar os ursos de pelúcia no Saigon. “Eles me fizeram sentir menos solidão”, diz. | comida |
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] | Até os anos 1970 imperava em São Paulo um modelo de restaurante francês baseado no dos bistrôs parisienses —com destaque para os mais antigos, como Freddy, La Casserole e Marcel. Até que nasceu, em 1977, o Le Coq Hardy.Apesar de servir cozinha francesa, ele foi criado por um italiano da Brescia: Vincenzo Ondei, que viveu dez anos na França e no Brasil por seis décadas, até dia 15 passado, quando morreu do coração aos 91 anos, em casa, nos braços da mulher, Margarida.Seu restaurante já não existia mais —fechara as portas em 2009. Mas marcara época no país. Diferente dos predecessores na cidade, o Le Coq Hardy mirava mais na imagem de grande restaurante gastronômico, elegante e formal, e com uma cozinha abastecida por ingredientes então difíceis de encontrar —como os graúdos escargots importados, e servidos à la bourguignonne. O que ele tinha em comum com os bistrôs paulistanos era que ali brilhava a figura do restaurateur —o proprietário, a alma da empresa— mais do que a do chef. Era ele que escolhia quem chefiaria tanto salão quanto a cozinha —e como na maioria dos demais, os chefs eram brasileiros, como os cearenses José Pereira de Souza, nos primórdios da casa, e numa fase posterior, em 2003, seu irmão Elizeu Pereira.Anteriormente sócio do paulistano La Maison Basque, Ondei instalou o Le Coq Hardy em uma grande residência adaptada em Santo Amaro, perto da estátua de Borba Gato. Era um programa pitoresco deslocar-se até lá, quando a maioria dos outros franceses ficava no centro.Mas pelo final dos anos 1980 o cenário da gastronomia em São Paulo começava a mudar. Chefs de cozinha ganhavam destaque, e no caso dos franceses, foi um marco a abertura do Roanne em 1986, fundado pelo chef Claude Troisgros (que fazia sucesso no Rio) e que logo depois passou para outro chef, Emmanuel Bassoleil. Além disso, o centro da gastronomia da cidade deslocava-se para o eixo Jardins-Itaim Bibi.Ondei —que era um empresário do comércio de automóveis, mas um apaixonado pela gastronomia— resolveu atualizar seu restaurante. Em 1994 mudou-o para a rua Jerônimo da Veiga, no Itaim Bibi. E resolveu descobrir em Paris um chef para reforçar o rosto francês da casa. Foi quando trouxe Érick Jacquin para o Brasil (ele chefiou a casa entre 1995 e 1999).Mais tarde, em 2007, Ondei procurou novamente renovar o Le Coq Hardy. Fez uma reforma radical, modernizando o visual clássico do lugar, e chamou outro chef francês, Pascal Valéro, que à época trabalhava no Grand Hyatt.Mas o custo da operação era alto, e o movimento não acompanhava. Em 2009 fechou o restaurante, estimando que era grande demais para a gastronomia refinada e serviço impecável que pretendia oferecer. Aproveitou uma oferta para vender o ponto, e passou a pensar em, no futuro, abrir algo menor, com no máximo 40 lugares (menos da metade do que tinha o Le Coq Hardy).Não chegou a realizar este sonho. Mas este italiano que, segundo Jacquin, era mais francês que qualquer um (ou, segundo Bassoleil, mais francês do que ele e Jacquin juntos), deixou uma marca inesquecível.Em seu perfil no Instagram, Jacquin deixou uma mensagem curta, mas que mostrava o carinho e o respeito que nutria por Ondei. "Até logo meu grande amigo, meu segundo pai. Muita saudade de você. Família, contem comigo. Te amo, sr. Ondei." | comida |
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] | Na entrada de um condomínio no Morumbi, em São Paulo, o porteiro pergunta o nome do entregador.“Jun Sakamoto”, diz o motorista e também chef do restaurante japonês de mesmo nome, que fez escola na capital paulista ao preparar sushis com obsessão pelo detalhe e pela técnica. O carro é conduzido para a área de descarga do prédio, e um segurança com walkie-talkie acompanha Sakamoto, 54, até a entrada de serviço. “É o sushi”, se ouve no aparelho. Com uma mistura de curiosidade e preocupação por causa da Covid-19, o dono do apartamento pega a refeição evitando contato direto. “Poxa. Prazer. Obrigado”, diz ao ver ali o sushiman Jun Sakamoto, usando máscara. Em uma comparação, seria o mesmo que receber, na porta de casa, o chef Alex Atala, do D.O.M., para fazer uma entrega de comida brasileira ou então o MasterChef Erick Jacquin, do Président, com delivery de pratos franceses. “Como faço para devolver tudo isso?”, pergunta o cliente ao sentir o peso da louça no lugar de embalagens descartáveis. E, na sequência, fecha rapidamente a porta. No delivery comandado pelo chef, os pedidos são entregues em louças feitas à mão que custam até R$ 700. No dia seguinte, Sakamoto volta para recolher os utensílios. “Quero que o cliente coloque o prato na mesa e aquilo seja bonito em um conjunto. Quer pedir com bandeja descartável? Tem várias opções no mercado. Quer algo especial? Estou fazendo”, diz. Uma semana depois do fechamento de restaurantes no estado de São Paulo como tentativa de barrar o coronavírus, o estrelado sushiman começou o delivery a pedido dos clientes. A primeira entrega, ainda informal, foi para o empresário Rogério Fasano.Ao contrário de muitas casas na cidade, que adotam um sistema misto (com entrega própria e feita por aplicativos), todo o atendimento no restaurante de Sakamoto, que completa 20 anos em setembro, é conduzido pelo chef. Ao fazer a entrega, Sakamoto monitora a qualidade do sushi durante o trajeto, consegue cortar custos e também mantém o tratamento pessoal que recebem os clientes que vão ao seu restaurante. A Folha acompanhou o sushiman em quatro entregas entre as zonas sul, oeste e central de São Paulo. “Que chique” e “que honra” foram algumas das reações de clientes. “Não nego que fico feliz quando sou recebido assim. Todo mundo tem ego. É a imagem que as pessoas fazem de você. O que muda é quanto você dá importância a isso”, afirma Sakamoto. O chef tem funcionários de confiança no preparo dos pedidos enquanto centraliza o funcionamento do delivery —praticando a vocação administrativa que exerceu ao ser, por volta de 2012, vice-presidente do hospital Santa Cruz, na Vila Mariana, que atende à comunidade nipo-brasileira. É o sushiman que responde às mensagens no WhatsApp, preenche planilhas com pedidos e atende o telefone do restaurante, cujas ligações foram redirecionadas ao seu celular. Sakamoto não espera que as entregas deem lucro, mas pretende ao menos cobrir os custos do restaurante e pagar os funcionários. O menu de encomenda tem duas opções, ambas a R$ 200: sashimis (25 fatias) e sushis (15 sushis, quatro uramakis, três hossomakis), mais taxa de R$ 20. No J1, outra casa de Sakamoto, mais acessível, instalada no shopping VillaLobos, o delivery é feito pelo Rappi e tem entre as opções o sashimi com 12 unidades (R$ 72). “Lá [J1], trabalhamos com produtos top, só um nível abaixo do que temos no restaurante da rua Lisboa. Aqui é essa coisinha mais artesanal. Minha base de clientes assíduos tem 170 nomes”, afirma. Cadeiras e mesas ainda estão nos mesmos lugares de tempos pré-quarentena e sons do ar-condicionado e de mensagens no celular ocupam o espaço, na ausência de conversas entre clientes e do vaivém de garçons. A produção acontece em silêncio no balcão em que Sakamoto, em dias normais, serve seu omakasê (R$ 395, 16 etapas), uma espécie de menu-degustação, para apenas oito pessoas por noite. Na gastronomia, o sushiman é conhecido por aprimorar processos de forma rigorosa, como o do preparo do arroz. “Quando todo mundo ia buscar um novo ingrediente para usar, como avocado ou manga, eu olhei para dentro do sushi. Adicionar ingrediente é diversificar, não enriquece essa gastronomia.” O arroz usado nos sushis é importado de uma empresa japonesa na Califórnia, nos Estados Unidos, e foi escolhido porque tem amido suficiente para fazer a liga do grão e, ao mesmo tempo, manter textura firme em seu interior. Para isso, é feito em uma panela de ferro japonesa com oscilações de temperatura. “É mais ou menos o conceito da pasta al dente.”Sakamoto também ficou conhecido por entregar ao cliente sushis já pincelados com molho de soja. “Virou um mito que eu sou muito exigente quanto à quantidade de shoyu. Isso aqui é um serviço, não uma ditadura. Quem está pagando usa o quanto quiser. Mas se você quiser aprender, eu explico.” Ao pincelar o molho de soja no sushi, diz o chef, a chance do delicado arroz esfarelar é minimizada —porque evita que o cliente passe a peça no shoyu por conta própria, correndo o risco de despedaçá-la. “O prazer da textura de um sushi vem quando o arroz se solta dentro do calor da sua boca. Aí, você mastiga grão a grão. Essa é a diferença”, diz. No delivery, o shoyu não pode ser pincelado e vai em tubinhos envasados à parte —uma mistura de molho de soja temperada na casa dá lugar à versão de saquinho. Na maioria dos dias, Sakamoto se encarrega de toda a logística. Quando é preciso, tem a ajuda de um garçom. Mal os pedidos ficam prontos, ele sai com o roteiro feito no Waze —no lugar da lista de favoritos, agora estão ali as informações dos clientes. Aizomê O restaurante comandado por Telma Shiraishi tem no cardápio bentôs, espécie de marmitas japonesas, como o lombo de porco empanado. Mas a lista também inclui sashimi, sushi e um especial do dia, entre outras opções. Trabalha com delivery e pedidos no iFood.Pedidos pelo tel. (11) 2222-1176 (opção 1) e via iFood. Al. Fernão Cardim, 39, Jardim Paulista, região oeste. Seg. a sáb.: 11h30 às 14h30 e 18h30 às 22h.Jojo Ramen Famosa pela receita de lámen, a casa também oferece domburis, tigelas com arroz e acompanhamentos.Pedidos via Rappi. R. Dr. Rafael de Barros, 262, Paraíso, região sul. Seg. a sex.: 11h30 às 14h30 e 18h às 22h. Sáb.: 11h30 às 15h e 18h às 22h.Jun Sakamoto A casa do sushiman homônimo entrega duas opções, ambas a R$ 200: sashimis (25 fatias) e sushis (15 sushis, quatro uramakis, três hossomakis). A região de delivery deve ser consultada por telefone. A taxa é de R$ 20.Pedidos pelo tel (11) 3088-6019. R. Lisboa, 55, Pinheiros, região oeste. Seg. a sáb.: 9h às 21h.Kitchin Além de sushis, tem entre as sugestões o carpaccio de barriga de salmão (R$ 64) e o batera feito com o mesmo pescado (R$ 50). Destaque para receitas veganas, que variam diariamente.Pedidos via WhatsApp (11) 96914-8762. R. Iaiá, 83, Itaim Bibi, região sul. Seg. a qui.: 11h30 às 23h. Sex a sáb.: 11h30 a 0h. Dom.: 11h30 às 23h.Tadashii Japanese Restaurant Entre as opções mais pedidas pelo delivery, estão os combinados (a partir de R$ 54,90). Também oferece pratos quentes, como yakisoba (R$ 36,90) e shimeji preparado na chapa, e sobremesas.Pedidos pelos tels. (11) 2579-7777 e (11) 2579-3737, via WhatsApp (11) 99543-0138 para bairros próximos, iFood e Rappi. R. Jamanari, 40, Vila Andrade, região sul. Seg. a qui.: 12h às 15h e 19h até 23h. Sex.: 12h às 15h e 19h a 0h. Sáb.: 13h às 15h e 19h a 0h. Dom.: 13h às 15h e 19h a 0h. | comida |
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] | Na casa da atriz Maíra Dvorek, mãe do Henrique, de seis anos, os doces estão liberados nos dias de semana. Antes do confinamento, era só nos fins de semana.Também já foram servidos batatas fritas e cachorros quentes, o que nunca acontecia. Como ela não está mais fazendo feira, acabaram as hortaliças e as frutas.“Mas estou tentando não avacalhar muito para não acabar esse período com o Henrique com diabetes, colesterol, essas coisas”, ela brinca. Refrigerantes, por exemplo, o menino continua sem saber o que é. “Quando eu tomo, falo que é bebida de adulto”, diz ela.A comida das crianças é mais um fator de ansiedade para os pais durante a pandemia do coronavírus —maior para os que podiam contar até a crise com refeições na escola ou os serviços de uma cozinheira.Mas, segundo a pediatra e nutróloga Giuliana Taralli, não é hora de estressar muito com isso. “Em períodos de grande instabilidade, ainda mais nesse momento de isolamento social, as regras de nutrição podem —e devem— ser relaxadas”.Mais importante é fazer da refeição um momento agradável, leve e em família. “Tudo bem se não deu tempo de preparar uma comida perfeitamente saudável e a criança vai comer arroz com ovo pelo segundo dia seguido. Forçá-la a comer algo que ela não quer só faz aumentar a ansiedade, o grande vilão da alimentação saudável.”A especialista em nutrição pediátrica Elaine Bento, no entanto, alerta para um problema que tem crescido muito na infância no Brasil, a obesidade infantil. “Com a criança afastada das suas atividades, isso tem um impacto no seu balanço energético, e se ela comer muito mais do que gasta a energia será acumulada.”A família da jornalista Lígia Carvalhosa, mãe do Theodoro, de seis anos, e da Martina, de quatro, tem feito as três refeições do dia juntos. Antes, só conseguiam tomar o café da manhã os quatro ao mesmo tempo."É o momento em que nós nos desconectamos das demandas de trabalho, deixamos o celular longe e ficamos só nós”, diz ela.Na casa de Lígia o cardápio não mudou tanto, só o macarrão e os doces que foram mais liberados, mas quase todas as refeições têm saladas —”e frutas o dia inteiro”.Luana Bottini, uma psicóloga social e mãe da Maria Clara, de seis anos, e do Guilherme, de oito, tem um hortifruti do lado de casa e tem feito compras semanalmente. Desde que dispensou a cozinheira, quando começou o confinamento, ela mesma prepara as refeições para a família e tem tentado fazer comidas saudáveis e gostosas.“Uma noite fiz fondue de queijo, na outra fiz x-salada com hambúrguer com menos sódio”, conta ela. “Mas entraram guloseimas no nosso cardápio que não tinha antes, como yakult, danoninho, sucos em caixas”.A arquiteta Maria Fernanda Nascimento, mãe do Theo, de sete anos, mora em uma casa com cinco adultos e duas crianças. São ela, um irmão, a mãe, o pai, a avó, o filho e a sobrinha.Ela e a mãe estão se revezando na cozinha nesse período, e as duas fazem muitas coisas em casa, como iogurte, granola, pão e bolos. “Mas produzi uma gaveta de chocolates para os momentos de faniquito das crianças, e temos feito cachorro-quente duas vezes por semana, antes não entrava salsicha de jeito nenhum em casa”, afirma a arquiteta.Elaine Bento, a especialista em nutrição pediátrica, também mãe de dois filhos pequenos, Lucas, de seis anos, e Lorenzo, de três, sugere envolver as crianças nas preparações das refeições.“O simples fato de quebrar um ovo ou misturar ingredientes pode ser uma descoberta incrível que faz com que a criança se aproxime do alimento”, afirma.E a família deve negociar o que pode entrar no cardápio das crianças com elas mesmas. “No último domingo fizemos brigadeiro em casa e os meninos ajudaram a enrolar. Mas não puderam comer quantos quiseram. Negociamos o fracionamento durante a semana”.O mais importante, na visão de Elaine, é ser o exemplo. “Não adianta querer que a criança coma um prato cheio de salada se ela nunca vê você comendo”. Do mesmo modo, se você passar o dia inteiro beliscando ou abrindo e fechando a porta da geladeira, vai ser isso que as crianças vão tender a fazer. | comida |
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] | Salmão, pólen de erva-doce e mostarda são três elementos combinados em um prato criado a partir da raiva do dinamarquês Bo Bech, 47, chef celebrado na cena nórdica, hoje à frente do Geist, em Copenhague. Inquieto, ele trava batalhas com ingredientes que lhe despertam cólera, por não compreendê-los. Tal qual sua história com o salmão, onipresente na dieta de seu país. Bech narra em seu segundo livro, “In My Blood” (no meu sangue, sem tradução), o processo de reconciliação com o peixe, que lhe exigiu anos, nos quais encontrou um fornecedor em ilhas do Atlântico Norte e alcançou uma maneira de abrandar a gordura da carne sem ter de recorrer à acidez. Neste sábado (7), ele lança sua obra em São Paulo. Nela, assume o papel de autor, fotógrafo e editor. Com ingressos esgotados, também irá cozinhar com Helena Rizzo no projeto Segundas no Maní, que pretende aprofundar diálogo, troca e coletividade com chefs internacionais. Nunca remover a identidade dos produtos é um dos ensinamentos de Bo Bech, cujo tino para a cozinha foi despertado quando integrou o exército da guarda da rainha da Dinamarca e teve de fazer sua própria comida. Outro é que “para cozinhar bem é preciso aprender a comer bem”. De seu primeiro restaurante, o Paustian, eleito pelo chef René Redzepi como “o lugar mais interessante da Europa para comer”, Bech carrega sua receita emblema, que combina bolacha de abacate, caviar salgado e óleo de amêndoas. Ele foi capaz de desmembrá-la em cerca de 80 páginas em seu primeiro livro, “What Does Memory Taste Like” (que gosto tem a memória), no qual revisita o Paustian, outrora agraciado com uma estrela Michelin e hoje extinto. Instalado em um edifício projetado por Jorn Utzon, arquiteto da Ópera de Sydney, o restaurante de Bech dependeu, à época, de um empréstimo no banco para ser aberto —e ainda assim foi inaugurado aos trancos e barrancos, com móveis emprestados e paredes por pintar.Para conseguir o dinheiro, negado depois de algumas tentativas, o chef fez certo malabarismo. Levou um kit de acampamento para a calçada do banco, com alho-poró, manteiga e ervas, os preparou, serviu ao gerente e disse que era o que gostaria de fazer no restaurante.Foi ao longo dos anos que Bech empenhou-se em desenvolver uma linguagem própria, de modo a se manter desafiado constantemente. “Inovação é movimento progressivo e muito fracasso.”Em seu Geist, no qual migra da alta cozinha para refeições mais descontraídas, com pratos para compartilhar e que realçam os vegetais, o chef aprimora o cardápio até a hora do serviço. Trabalhar sob pressão, para ele, gera uma energia que faz com que o show continue. “É preciso estar aberto aos seus sentidos. Rock n’ roll.”Ele fala dos sentidos no início de seu livro ao eleger algumas perguntas para responder. Sua ideia de miséria é a perda dos sentidos. “Causa uma sensação de desconexão”, diz. “In My Blood”, portanto, não é somente um livro de receitas, ainda que acolha cem modos de preparos. É um livro de arte, que conjuga aquarelas, escritos manuais e fotografias de seus pratos. Um livro visceral, perturbador, provocante. Assim como a cozinha de Bo Bech, que ele há de passar adiante. “No momento em que você revela seus segredos, entra em um novo nível de descoberta e pode seguir adiante.” | comida |
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] | Quando na virada para este século a gastronomia espanhola tomou inédito protagonismo mundial, um personagem se destacava como o mais jovem e inquieto da turma liderada pelo chef Ferran Adrià: Andoni Luis Aduriz.Ele vem ao Brasil para dar palestra nesta quarta (24), no evento Mesa São Paulo, e cozinhar no Farol Santander no próximo dia 30. Andoni, 48, festejou no ano passado duas décadas de seu Mugaritz, aberto no seu País Basco natal depois de ter estudado hotelaria ali perto e passado pelos principais restaurantes da região (além do El Bulli de Adrià, na Catalunha).A casa é a número sete na lista World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 —está há 13 anos entre os dez primeiros— e desde 2005 ostenta duas estrelas no guia Michelin (a terceira chegará, o guia é tradicionalmente lento em reagir a novidades).Este tranquilo templo na zona rural é também o epicentro de oficinas e laboratórios de pesquisa —que vão da biologia à neurociência, a serviço da culinária—, nos quais o chef procura equacionar suas muitas interrogações. Para alguns o restaurante deixa uma sensação de incompletude, por pratos onde o sabor parece submergir diante de ideias exuberantes. Seria o paladar algo secundário em sua cozinha?“Gosto é um sentido que se amplifica se o resto for utilizado numa experiência. No Mugaritz queremos dar às texturas o mesmo protagonismo dado ao sabor, exaltar o tato ao se comer com as mãos ou com o corpo, brincar com o tempo como ingrediente”, disse Andoni à Folha.“Afinal a língua começa no cérebro, e ampliar o sentido do gosto com o restante dos sentidos é uma maneira de ampliar a experiência gastronômica e sua narrativa.”Ele repete sempre que está mais atrás de perguntas do que de respostas. “Hoje há oportunidades antes impensáveis. Por exemplo, mais de um bilhão de pessoas atravessando alguma fronteira por ano: isso permite acessar um público muito mais global. O que antes se resolvia no marco local ou nacional agora é resolvido no âmbito global”, prossegue.“Se você cria um espaço que suscita a pesquisa, a dúvida e a interrogação, talvez não encontre cúmplices em seu entorno, mas certamente no mundo existem pessoas que amarão o desafio.”Nesta edição do evento Mesa São Paulo, o tema, Cozinha de Transição - Novos Significados para um Planeta em Mutação discute como comeremos no futuro. Ali estarão diferentes visões —do italiano Carlo Petrini, do Slow Food (agricultura e biodiversidade) ao açougueiro toscano Dario Cecchini.Também estarão os americanos Bruce Friederich, do The Good Food Institute (falando da “carne do futuro”), e Matthew Kenney, guru do conceito plant-based, além de Jefferson Rueda, com seus porcos sadios, e Bela Gil, com sua queda pelos vegetais.E Andoni Aduriz (cuja palestra é “A Insustentável Leveza de Comer”), o que opina? “Alimentação e cozinha são reflexos da sociedade. Hoje temos desafios que vão do aquecimento global, que pode levar a uma situação sem retorno, à injustiça social.”E acrescenta: “Ao mesmo tempo, minha mãe, de 91 anos, sempre diz que nunca se comeu melhor do que hoje, nunca tivemos tanta escolha. Em algumas coisas perdemos, em outras ganhamos. Meu ponto de partida é nos assustar com isso. Agimos com a preocupação de controlar nosso impacto com a energia, com o lixo. Mas de resto, estamos em constante interrogação”.Se vive em estado de dúvida, que ele alimenta, sua cozinha a transfere ao cliente como provocação. No jantar que fará a quatro mãos com o brasileiro Alex Atala, aberto ao público pagante, no próximo dia 30 no Farol Santander, servirá pratos conhecidos do Mugaritz que embutem suas reflexões.O Crema Catalana é um deles: junta montanha e mar, frango e lagosta (no Brasil usará cavaquinha). “É típico da Catalunha, onde a lagosta era abundante e barata, e o frango era considerado um produto de luxo; de alguma forma queremos refletir sobre o que é luxo e o que não é”, diz o chef.A sobremesa será Rayando lo Imposible, um jogo de palavras —pelo som, “rayar” significa “roçar”, mas lembra também “ralar” (o trocadilho em português poderia ser algo como “raspando o impossível”). É um tempurá de creme acompanhado por uma pedra de açúcar e especiarias que cada pessoa rala como quer. “É um prato para brincar, conectar comensais, e onde tudo é possível”, conclui.Andoni acaba de lançar o instigante livro “Mugaritz. Puntos de Fuga” (ed. Planeta Gastro, sem tradução), feito “para abrir a mente, não só a boca”. São reflexões sobre seu trabalho, mais 30 conceitos sobre a criatividade, 50 receitas “fora da caixa”, e um “glossário não culinário para afrontar desafios culinários”. | comida |
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] | A Casa do Porco é o melhor restaurante brasileiro segundo a lista dos 50 melhores da América Latina, do "50 Best". O restaurante de Jefferson Rueda foi 6º colocado no ranking latino. Ele também é o único brasileiro entre os 50 melhores da lista global, considerada o "Oscar da gastronomia".A cerimônia aconteceu na noite desta quinta-feira (10), em Buenos Aires, na Argentina. É a primeira vez que o país recebe o evento.Já o restaurante Maido, de Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura, em Lima, no Peru, foi eleito, pela terceira vez consecutiva, o melhor restaurante da América Latina.Formam o top 5, na sequência: Central (2º), no Peru; Pujol (3º), no México; Don Julio (4º), na Argentina; e Boragó (5º), em Santiago, no Chile. O Brasil teve duas estreias, o curitibano Manu (42º) e o paulistano Evvai (40º). Também teve duas baixas: o carioca Oro, 49º em 2018, e o paulistano Tuju, o 50º, deixaram a lista.As cozinhas de Felipe Bronze e Ivan Ralston não foram as únicas que caíram. O Olympe, de Claude e Thomas Troisgros, foi 27º para 35º. O Maní, de Helena Rizzo, foi da 12ª para a 18ª posição. Já o D.O.M., de Alex Atala, caiu cinco pontos e ficou em 10º lugar.Apesar das quedas, parte dos restaurantes brasileiros foi bem: além dos estreantes Manu e Evvai, o Mocotó subiu de 45º para 43º; o carioca Lasai foi de 26º para 24º e ainda conquistou o prêmio de hospitalidade. Já o Oteque, de Alberto Landgraf, subiu dez posições —de 33º foi para 23º.Além das 50 casas presentes na lista, a cerimônia revelou destaques individuais. São eles: melhor confeiteiro (mexicano Luis Robledo); a escolha do chef, votado por cozinheiros (Tomás Kalika, do Mishiguene, em Buenos Aires); a arte da hospitalidade (Lasai, no Rio de Janeiro); o restaurante que mais subiu posições (Alcalde, no México, que foi do 31º para o 14º lugar); e o prêmio dedicado à sustentabilidade (Central, em Lima).A melhor estreia do ano foi a do restaurante peruano Kjolle, aberto em 2018, que chegou à lista já na 21ª posição. Quem comanda a casa é Pía León (ex-La Central), apontada como melhor chef mulher da América Latina em 2018.Outros prêmios divulgados anteriormente foram entregues durante a noite, entre eles o de melhor chef mulher. A escolhida foi Carolina Bazán, dos restaurantes Ambrosía e Ambrosía Bistro, em Santiago, no Chile.Já colombiano Celele, em Cartagena, levou a categoria revelação (One To Watch), que reconhece potencial para integrar a lista nos próximos anos. Por fim, o peruano Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, do Amaz, recebeu o prêmio American Express Icon Award.A celebração, em seu sétimo ano, é a versão latino-americana do 50 Best Restaurants global, publicado atualmente pela William Reed Business Media e lançado em 2002. Em 2018, os brasileiros que estiveram na lista foram: D. O.M. (5º), A Casa do Porco (7º), Maní (12º), Lasai (26°), Olympe (27º), Oteque (33º), Mocotó (45º), Oro (49º) e o Tuju (50º).1. Maido, em Lima, Peru2. Central, em Lima, Peru3. Pujol, na Cidade do México, México (o melhor do país)4. Don Julio, em Buenos Aires, Argentina (o melhor do país)5. Boragó, em Santiago, Chile (o melhor do país)6. A Casa do Porco, em São Paulo, Brasil (o melhor do país)7. El Chato, em Bogotá, Colômbia (o melhor do país)8. Leo, em Bogotá, Colômbia9. Osso, em Lima, no Peru10. D.O.M., em São Paulo, Brasil11. Quintonil, na Cidade do México, México12. Isolina, em Lima, Peru13. Astrid y Gastón, em Lima, Peru14. Alcalde, em Guadalajara, no México15. Pangea, em Monterrey, no México16. Sud 777, na Cidade do México, México17. Maito, na Cidade do Panamá, em Panamá (o melhor do país)18. Maní, em São Paulo, Brasil19. Rafael, em Lima, no Peru20. Máximo Bistrot, na Cidade do México, México21. Kjolle, em Lima, Peru22. Harry Sasson, em Bogotá, na Colômbia23. Oteque, no Rio de Janeiro, Brasil24. Lasai, no Rio de Janeiro, Brasil25. Tegui, em Buenos Aires, Argentina26. La Mar, em Lima, Peru27. Rosetta, na Cidade do México, México28. Máximo Bistrot, na Cidade do México, México29. Chila, em Buenos Aires, na Argentina30. Ambrosía, em Santiago, no Chila31. Nicos, na Cidade do México, México32. Le Chique, em Cancun, no México33. Parador La Huella, em Jose Ignacio, Uruguai (o melhor do país)34. De Patio, em Santiago, Chile (novidade)35. Olympe, no Rio de Janeiro, Brasil36. Mil, em Cusco, Peru (novidade)37. Restaurante 040, em Santiago, no Chile38. La Docena (Polanco), na Cidade do México, México 39. El Baqueano, em Buenos Aires, Argentina40. Evvai, em São Paulo, Brasil (novidade)41. La Docena, em Guadalajara, México42. Manu, em Curitiba, Brasil (novidade)43. Mocotó, em São Paulo, Brasil44. Osaka, em Santiago, Chile45. Elena, em Buenos Aires, Argentina46. Gran Dabbang, em Buenos Aires, Argentina47. 99, em Santiago, Chile (novidade)48. Malabar, em Lima, Peru49. Mayta, em Lima, Peru (novidade)50. Narda Comedor, em Buenos Aires, Argentina | comida |
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] | Tradicional na década de 1990, a churrascaria que oferece apenas o rodízio de carnes não encanta tanto um consumidor cada vez mais exigente. Produtos de primeira linha e atendimento atencioso também não são mais estandartes. Por isso, antes de sofrerem uma queda no faturamento e se distanciarem dos concorrentes, algumas casas de carne repensaram o próprio modelo.“Negócios de qualquer ramo passam por ciclos. O de gastronomia se tornou algo além da comida e está mais voltado à experiência”, diz Alberto Wachholz, diretor de operações da rede Fogo de Chão, que tem hoje 58 unidades pelo mundo —cinco delas na capital paulista.Revitalizada, a unidade da churrascaria no bairro dos Jardins substituiu a velha sala de espera e a transformou em um bar, que serve de ponto de encontro para happy hours, com um menu de comes e bebes à parte do salão. O empreendimento também inaugurou uma ala reservada aos apreciadores de charutos —que teve a consultoria de Cesar Adames, especialista em mercado de tabaco, para montar uma carta de fumos especiais para o estabelecimento.“Fizemos uma pesquisa de mercado durante três anos para ajustar o conceito da marca para uma nova geração consumidora, alinhado com a herança gastronômica dos 40 anos de existência do grupo”, completa Wachholz. “Precisávamos nos adaptar tanto a quem buscava uma nova alternativa gourmet na cidade, até para aqueles que não dispensam o tradicional.” O sucesso, diz, pode ser medido pela lotação frequente da casa, que tem capacidade para 380 pessoas.Espaços privativos têm sido uma procura constante não só para eventos corporativos, mas também para convivas. Bastante difundida nos Estados Unidos, essa prática desembarcou em São Paulo com o restaurante americano Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse, que pertence ao mesmo grupo dono do Outback.Para estas reservas, o menu é selecionado de acordo com o orçamento e gostos dos clientes. Há também uma equipe de atendimento exclusiva. Em média, são 25 reservas do serviço Private Dining do restaurante por mês.“Prezamos pela vivência dos clientes em dois aspectos: comida feita com excelência e serviço de alto nível”, diz Jean Paul Maroun, proprietário da casa, que tem quatro salas de 19 a 96 metros quadrados, equipadas com itens multimídia e que comportam até 70 convidados sentados. O Fleming’s apostou ainda no serviço de vinhos em taças (medidas de 180 ml e 270 ml, a partir de R$ 12). O programa F100 consiste em uma seleção de cem rótulos, apresentados por níveis de intensidade. “Se um casal ou um grupo de uma mesa tem gostos diferentes, nada os impede de vir aqui. Eles podem pedir taças diferentes”, indica Gabriel Raele, sommelier do local. Já que o assunto é casa de carnes, o churrasco em si não pode ficar de fora. Especializado em cortes argentinos, o Corrientes 348 promove festivais com peças das raças mais nobres do mundo, como o black baldy, um cruzamento de duas raças britânicas. “Estamos sempre de olho em tecnologias e serviços inéditos, analisando o que pode ser aplicado na operação para conquistar satisfação”, explica Relio Classio, gerente da rede. É uma oportunidade para apreciadores provarem algo realmente diferente. Reinventando a forma de servir, sai de cena o sistema de espeto corrido. No NB Steak House, o que vigora é o menu-degustação, com uma seleção de cortes nobres e inventivos (R$ 162). “Esta não foi uma oportunidade de negócio, mas uma janela que existia entre os antigos rodízios e o serviço à la carte”, diz Arri Coser, sócio-fundador da rede, que tem seis unidades —três delas na capital paulista.Ali, o extenso bufê de comida foi substituído por um enxuto cardápio de entradas, seguido por porções de guarnições selecionadas. Entre as peças de gado de raças britânicas, a mais recente pedida é o brisket defumado, extraído da parte dianteira do animal. “Não chamaria este sistema de diferencial. Todo o setor se ajuda com novidades e conceitos, atraindo assim novos clientes”, diz Coser. O resultado está em expansão —até novembro, a rede terá mais unidades no estado de São Paulo, uma em Barueri e outra em Campinas. | comida |
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] | A Folha estreia nesta segunda-feira (19) o blog Racha uma Breja, da jornalista Maria Shirts.Ela embarcou em uma viagem de seis meses pela Europa e pelos Estados Unidos para traçar uma linha do tempo da cerveja artesanal e mostrar esse mundo pela “ótica das mulheres”.Grande "entusiasta de cerveja", como ela própria se descreve, começou a fazer cursos e frequentar bares especializados. Há dois anos, passou a produzir cerveja em casa e criou um coletivo com amigas. Todas mulheres."Foi assim que surgiu meu projeto para o blog", diz. Para Shirts, ainda "há uma discriminação de gênero muito forte, mais até do que outros meios tradicionalmente masculinos".Apesar do foco, Shirts ressalta que não vai se restringir a isso. “Quero mostrar toda a cadeia de produção." Desde o processo dentro de fábricas tradicionais, até quando a cerveja é servida em um bar ou vendida em um supermercado.“Não quero falar do sofrimento das mulheres”, diz, em tom de brincadeira, “mas quero trazer experiências e mostrar como elas veem as tendências de mercado e de consumo porque não temos muita voz nesse universo”.Depois do tour por países como República Tcheca, Inglaterra e Alemanha, onde existe uma tradição antiga de cerveja artesanal, em outubro ela cruza o Atlântico. Apesar da produção mais recente, ela conta que a quantidade de fábricas nos Estados Unidos já ultrapassa as europeias.Para Shirts, é importante ter esse tipo de espaço para o blog. “É um assunto que está na moda, mas ainda é muito nichado. É preciso democratizar, também é cultura, gastronomia.” | comida |
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] | O Festival Fartura, realizado no último fim-de-semana no Jockey Club de São Paulo, ofereceu pratos e ingredientes típicos de todas as regiões do Brasil. O jornalista Marcos Nogueira, autor do blog “Cozinha Bruta”, esteve no evento, do qual a Folha é parceira, para provar receitas diferentes vendidas pelos expositores. Da região Nordeste, o destaque ficou para o espeto de bode moído —uma espécie de cafta– do restaurante Cá-Já, do Recife. O Sul foi representado pela polenta de milho crioulo e cogumelos do Quintana, de Curitiba, e pelo churrasco de fogo de chão do El Topador, de Porto Alegre.A linguiça artesanal de Leo Hamu, de Brasília, representou a região Centro-Oeste. Do Sudeste, Marcos preferiu a tradição paulistana da pizza. Feito pela Queijaria, o brotinho levava quatro queijos de quatro leites: vaca, búfala, ovelha e cabra.A região Norte apareceu três vezes na rota do Cozinha Bruta. No arroz vermelho ao tucupi com pirarucu, do NiÁ, de Porto Velho; nos sorvetes de frutas amazônicas da Boto, de Santarém (um enorme sucesso, apesar do frio); e no estande Sinimbu, de Belém, que vende produtos à base de jambu.A erva amazônica, que provoca sensações de dormência e choque elétrico, estava em conservas, em bebidas e num spray chamado Tremidão –feito com o extrato da planta. O produto, segundo, a produtora Tatiana Sinimbu, serve para fins gastronômicos e sexuais. | comida |
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] | Cerca de 8.000 pessoas ignoraram a frente fria que baixou em São Paulo neste fim de semana e a crise econômica para aproveitar a diversidade da gastronomia brasileira no Festival Fartura, do qual a Folha é parceira, encerrado neste domingo (4) no Jockey Club.“Enfrentamos o clima, um ano adverso em termos econômicos e a dificuldade logística de trazer chefs e produtores de todo o país”, diz Rodrigo Ferraz, diretor geral do Fartura. Neste domingo, o público formava filas para provar sabores inusitados como carne de bode, jambu e tucupi no espaço Chefs e Restaurantes.O panzerotti recheado de queijo com ragu de linguiça, do chef Matheus Zanchini, do restaurante Borgo (SP), e a polenta de milho crioulo branco com fonduta de queijo e cogumelos selvagens, da chef paranaense Gabriela Carvalho, do Quintana Gastronomia, foram os campeões entre os pratos quentes, com mais de 700 porções servidas de cada.De sobremesa, difícil concorrer com o marketing presencial do chef Leonardo Macedo, do Nanica (SP), que anunciava para os frequentadores sua torta banoffee como a “melhor torta do mundo”. Foram mais de 1.300 pedaços nas duas versões: banana com doce de leite e banana com Nutella. A versão raiz saiu na frente.Para harmonizar, muito vinho: foram consumidas 4.100 garrafas. “Estamos conseguindo mostrar essa questão da origem ao prato. Você começa a despertar nas pessoas questões como: 'de onde veio esse sorvete?'”, diz Ferraz.“É muito satisfatório movimentar a cadeia do alimento, uma das principais missões da plataforma”, afirma a jornalista Luiza Fecarotta, curadora do evento.O casal Carlos Xavier, 39, e Ayla Fernandes, 30, que trabalha na área de tecnologia, já tinha vindo ao festival no ano passado. A primeira vez, foi só para comer, segundo Xavier. Neste ano, os dois resolveram aproveitar ao máximo a programação e passaram os dois dias no Jockey Club. Conseguiram assistir a meia dúzia de aulas e palestras –além de comer bem.O maranhense Xavier, que mora há 16 anos em São Paulo, gostou da experiência. "Você aprende coisas novas, faz conexão com pessoas diferentes, troca ideias, prova um doce junto", diz ele, que pretende aplicar o que aprendeu nas aulas na cozinha de casa. O tecnólogo diz considerar o festival um espaço de diversidade. "São Paulo é uma bolha, tem gente que mal sabe o que é um acarajé. Imagina o que significa ter a oportunidade de comer bode."A sustentabilidade, tema que permeia o evento, também foi colocada em prática pela organização. Cerca de 200 litros de óleo usados durante o festival serão doados à ONG Trevo, que faz seu reprocessamento.Além disso, 60% das 20 toneladas de lixo produzidas durante o fim de semana serão recicladas. Pratos, facas e garfinhos são biodegradáveis. | comida |