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Je艣li chcecie dosta膰 si臋 na Wyspy Phoenix, znajduj膮 si臋 one 5 dni od Fiji, 5 dni od Hawaj贸w, 5 dni od Archipelagu Samoa.
If you want to get to the Phoenix Islands, it's five days from Fiji, it's five days from Hawaii, it's five days from Samoa.
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S膮 w centrum Oceanu Spokojnego, zaraz obok r贸wnika.
It's out in the middle of the Pacific, right around the Equator.
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I had never heard of the islands 10 years ago, nor the country, Kiribati, that owns them, till two friends of mine who run a liveaboard dive boat in Fiji said, "Greg, would you lead a scientific expedition up to these islands?
Jeszcze 10 lat temu nie mia艂em poj臋cia ani o tych wyspach, ani o Kiribati, pa艅stwie, do kt贸rego nale偶膮, dop贸ki moi dwaj przyjaciele nurkuj膮cy na Fiji nie powiedzieli: "Greg, chcia艂by艣 poprowadzi膰 wypraw臋 naukow膮 na te wyspy?
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They've never been dived."
Nikt tam nigdy nie nurkowa艂."
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Odpowiedzia艂em: "Jasne,
And I said, "Yeah.
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ale powiedzcie mi, gdzie one s膮 i do jakiego kraju nale偶膮."
But tell me where they are and the country that owns them."
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Wtedy si臋 o nich dowiedzia艂em i nie mia艂em poj臋cia, w co si臋 pakuj臋.
So that's when I first learned of the Islands and had no idea what I was getting into.
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But I was in for the adventure.
Ale by艂em 偶膮dny przyg贸d.
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Poka偶臋 Wam kawa艂ek obszaru chronionego obok Wysp Phoenix.
Let me give you a little peek here of the Phoenix Islands-protected area.
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Jest to cz臋艣膰 naszej planety g艂臋boko pod wod膮.
It's a very deep-water part of our planet.
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艢rednia g艂臋boko艣膰 wynosi 3,7 km.
The average depths are about 12,000 ft.
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Jest tam wiele podwodnych g贸r, kt贸re s膮 szczeg贸ln膮 cz臋艣ci膮 obszaru chronionego.
There's lots of seamounts in the Phoenix Islands, which are specifically part of the protected area.
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Te g贸ry s膮 wa偶ne dla r贸偶norodno艣ci biologicznej.
Seamounts are important for biodiversity.
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W rzeczywisto艣ci wi臋cej g贸r znajduje si臋 w morzach ni偶 na l膮dzie.
There's actually more mountains in the ocean than there are on land.
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It's an interesting fact.
To bardzo ciekawe.
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A obok Wysp Phoenix jest ich niezwykle du偶o.
And the Phoenix Islands is very rich in those seamounts.
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So it's a deep -- think about it in a big three-dimensional space, very deep three-dimensional space with herds of tuna, whales, all kinds of deep sea marine life like we've seen here before.
Jest to wi臋c -- my艣lcie o tym jako o wielkim, tr贸jwymiarowym obszarze, bardzo g艂臋bokim tr贸jwymiarowym obszarze, z 艂awicami tu艅czyka, wielorybami, wszystkimi gatunkami morskich organizm贸w, tak jak widzieli艣my wcze艣niej.
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That's the vessel that we took up there for these studies, early on, and that's what the Islands look like -- you can see in the background.
To jest 艂贸d藕, kt贸r膮 tam dop艂yn臋li艣my, aby prowadzi膰 badania, a tak wygl膮daj膮 Wyspy Phoenix; mo偶ecie je zobaczy膰 w tle.
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They're very low to the water, and they're all uninhabited, except one island has about 35 caretakers on it.
S膮 nisko nad poziomem morza i wszystkie s膮 niezamieszkane, opr贸cz jednej, na kt贸rej mieszka 35 stra偶nik贸w.
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And they've been uninhabited for most of time because even in the ancient days, these islands were too far away from the bright lights of Fiji and Hawaii and Tahiti for those ancient Polynesian mariners that were traversing the Pacific so widely.
Przez wi臋kszo艣膰 czasu nikt na nich nie mieszka艂, gdy偶 nawet w staro偶ytno艣ci znajdowa艂y si臋 zbyt daleko od jasnych 艣wiate艂 Fiji, Hawaj贸w czy Tahiti dla staro偶ytnych polinezyjskich 偶eglarzy, kt贸rzy przemierzali ca艂y Pacyfik.
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But we got up there, and I had the unique and wonderful scientific opportunity and personal opportunity to get to a place that had never been dived and just get to an island and go, "Okay, where are we going to dive?
Dop艂yn臋li艣my tam i mia艂em unikaln膮 i cudown膮 naukow膮, a tak偶e osobist膮 mo偶liwo艣膰 bycia w miejscu, w kt贸rym nikt nigdy nie nurkowa艂, spytania si臋 na brzegu wyspy: "No dobra, to gdzie nurkujemy?
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Spr贸bujmy tutaj", a potem zanurzenia si臋 w wodzie.
Let's try there," and then falling into the water.
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Moje 偶ycie prywatne i zawodowe zmieni艂o si臋.
Both my personal and my professional life changed.
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To by艂 ekosystem -- papugoryby sk艂ada艂y ikr臋. To oko艂o 5000 papugoryb d艂ugonosych sk艂adaj膮cych ikr臋 w pobli偶u jednej z Wysp Phoenix.
It was an ecosystem. Parrotfish spawning -- this is about 5,000 longnose parrotfish spawning at the entrance to one of the Phoenix Islands.
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Wyspy Phoenix i wszystkie r贸wnikowe obszary naszej planety s膮 bardzo wa偶ne w po艂owach tu艅czyka, zw艂aszcza tu艅czyka 偶贸艂top艂etwego, kt贸rego tu widzicie.
The Phoenix Islands and all the equatorial parts of our planet are very important for tuna fisheries, especially this yellowfin tuna that you see here.
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Phoenix Islands is a major tuna location.
Wyspy Phoenix to g艂贸wne siedlisko tu艅czyka.
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I rekiny -- od pocz膮tku widywali艣my rekiny, nawet do 150 za jednym razem, co wskazuje na to, 偶e jest to niezmiernie zdrowy i silny ekosystem.
And sharks -- we had sharks on our early dives, up to 150 sharks at once, which is an indication of a very, very healthy, very strong, system.
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My艣la艂em, 偶e widoki nieko艅cz膮cego si臋 dzikiego 艣rodowiska b臋d膮 trwa艂y i trwa艂y, ale w ko艅cu si臋 sko艅czy艂y.
So I thought the scenes of never-ending wilderness would go on forever, but they did finally come to an end.
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Zbadali艣my tak偶e same Wyspy Phoenix -- odkryli艣my bardzo wa偶ne tereny l臋gowe ptak贸w na l膮dzie, jedne z najwa偶niejszych teren贸w l臋gowych na Pacyfiku i na 艣wiecie.
And we explored the surface of the Islands as well -- very important bird nesting site, some of the most important bird-nesting sites in the Pacific, in the world.
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And we finished our trip.
I zako艅czyli艣my nasz膮 podr贸偶.
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And that's the area again.
To ponownie ten obszar.
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You can see the Islands -- there are eight islands -- that pop out of the water.
Mo偶ecie zobaczy膰 Wyspy -- jest osiem wysp -- wynurzaj膮ce si臋 z wody.
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Szczyty, kt贸re nie wychodz膮 na powierzchni臋, to podwodne g贸ry.
The peaks that don't come out of the water are the seamounts.
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Pami臋tajcie, podwodna g贸ra zmienia si臋 w wysp臋, kiedy dosi臋gnie powierzchni.
Remember, a seamount turns into an island when it hits the surface.
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A jak to si臋 odnosi do Wysp Phoenix?
And what's the context of the Phoenix Islands?
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Gdzie one si臋 znajduj膮?
Where do these exist?
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Well they exist in the Republic of Kiribati, and Kiribati is located in the Central Pacific in three island groups.
C贸偶, s膮 one po艂o偶one w Republice Kiribati, a Kiribati znajduje si臋 na centralnym Pacyfiku; s膮 to trzy grupy wysp.
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In the west we have the Gilbert Islands.
Na zachodzie mamy Wyspy Gilberta.
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Na 艣rodku s膮 Wyspy Phoenix, o kt贸rych opowiadam.
In the center we have the Phoenix Islands, which is the subject that I'm talking about.
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And then over to the east we have the Line Islands.
A dalej na wschodzie s膮 Sporady 艢rodkowopolinezyjskie.
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To najwi臋kszy nar贸d 偶yj膮cy na atolu na 艣wiecie.
It's the largest atoll nation in the world.
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Mieszka tam oko艂o 110 tys. ludzi rozproszonych na ponad 33 wyspach.
And they have about 110,000 people spread out over 33 islands.
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They control 3.4 million cubic miles of ocean, and that's between one and two percent of all the ocean water on the planet.
Kontroluj膮 oni 5,5 mln kilometr贸w kwadratowych oceanu, to od 1 do 2 procent ca艂ej wody oceanicznej na 艣wiecie.
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Kiedy wybiera艂em si臋 tam pierwszy raz -- 10 lat temu prawie nie zna艂em nazwy tego pa艅stwa -- i ludzie pytali si臋 mnie: "Czemu p艂yniesz do jakiego艣 Kiribati?
And when I was first going up there, I barely knew the name of this country 10 years ago, and people would ask me, "Why are you going to this place called Kiribati?"
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And it reminded me of that old joke where the bank robber comes out of the courthouse handcuffed, and the reporter yells, "Hey, Willy. Why do you rob banks?"
". To przypomnia艂o mi stary dowcip, w kt贸rym przest臋pca wychodzi w kajdankach z s膮du, a reporter krzyczy: "Willy, dlaczego napadasz na banki?"
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And he says, "cause that's where all the money is."
A on odpowiada: "Bo tam s膮 wszystkie pieni膮dze".
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And I would tell people, "Why do I go to Kiribati?
Ja m贸wi艂em ludziom: "Dlaczego jad臋 na Kiribati?
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Because that's where all the ocean is."
Bo tam jest ca艂y ocean".
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To praktycznie jeden nar贸d kontroluj膮cy wi臋kszo艣膰 w贸d r贸wnikowych 艢rodkowego Pacyfiku.
They basically are one nation that controls most of the equatorial waters of the Central Pacific Ocean.
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They're also a country that is in dire danger.
Jest to r贸wnie偶 kraj, kt贸ry znajduje si臋 w strasznym niebezpiecze艅stwie.
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Poziom morza si臋 podnosi, a Kiribati, jak r贸wnie偶 42 inne narody na 艣wiecie, za 50 do 100 lat znajdzie si臋 pod wod膮 z powodu zmian klimatu i zwi膮zanego z nimi wzrostu temperatury, a tak偶e wp艂ywaniu s艂odkiej wody do oceanu.
Sea levels are rising, and Kiribati, along with 42 other nations in the world, will be under water within 50 to 100 years due to climate change and the associated sea-level rise from thermal expansion and the melting of freshwater into the ocean.
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Wyspy wystaj膮 tylko jeden do dw贸ch metr贸w nad powierzchni臋 wody.
The Islands rise only one to two meters above the surface.
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Some of the islands have already gone under water.
Niekt贸re z nich ju偶 s膮 pod wod膮.
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Te narody musz膮 zmierzy膰 si臋 z prawdziwym problemem.
And these nations are faced with a real problem.
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My jako 艣wiat musimy si臋 zmierzy膰 z problemem.
We as a world are faced with a problem.
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What do we do with displaced fellow Earthlings who no longer have a home on the planet?
Co zrobimy z naszymi rodakami Ziemianami, kt贸rzy nie maj膮 ju偶 swojego domu na naszej planecie?
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The president of the Maldives conducted a mock cabinet meeting underwater recently to highlight the dire straits of these countries.
Prezydent Malediw贸w przewodniczy艂 niedawno podwodnemu, udawanemu zebraniu rady ministr贸w, aby unaoczni膰, w jakich tarapatach znajduj膮 si臋 te pa艅stwa.
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Musimy si臋 wi臋c na tym skupi膰.
So it's something we need to focus on.
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Ale wracaj膮c do Wysp Phoenix, kt贸re s膮 dzisiejszym tematem.
But back to the Phoenix Islands, which is the subject of this Talk.
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After I got back, I said, okay, this is amazing, what we found.
Po powrocie powiedzia艂em, 偶e to, co odkryli艣my, jest wspania艂e.
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I'd like to go back and share it with the government of Kiribati, who are over in Tarawa, the westernmost group.
Chcia艂bym tam wr贸ci膰 i podzieli膰 si臋 tym z rz膮dem Kiribati, kt贸ry ma swoja siedzib臋 w Tarawa, mie艣cie w zachodniej grupie wysp.
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Wi臋c zacz膮艂em si臋 z nimi kontaktowa膰 -- poniewa偶 oni wyrazili na to zgod臋 -- i powiedzia艂em: "Chc臋 przyjecha膰 i powiedzie膰, co odkryli艣my".
So I started contacting them -- because they had actually given me a permit to do this -- and I said, "I want to come up and tell you what we found."
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Z jakiego艣 powodu nie chcieli, 偶ebym ich odwiedza艂, albo ci臋偶ko by艂o znale藕膰 czas czy miejsce, a to zaj臋艂oby chwil臋, lecz w ko艅cu powiedzieli: "OK, mo偶esz przyjecha膰.
And for some reason they didn't want me to come, or it was hard to find a time and a place, and it took a while, but finally they said, "Okay, you can come.
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Ale musisz postawi膰 lunch ka偶demu, kto przyjdzie na seminarium".
But if you come, you have to buy lunch for everybody who comes to the seminar."
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So I said, "Okay, I'm happy to buy lunch.
Wi臋c odpar艂em: "Jasne, ch臋tnie postawi臋 lunch.
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Just get whatever anybody wants."
Dowiedzcie si臋 tylko, co kto lubi".
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So David Obura, a coral reef biologist, and I went to Tarawa, and we presented for two hours on the amazing findings of the Phoenix Islands.
Wi臋c David Obura, biolog badaj膮cy rafy, i ja przybyli艣my do Tarawa i przez dwie godziny pokazywali艣my, jakie wspania艂e rzeczy widzieli艣my na wyspach Phoenix.
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And the country never knew this. They never had any data from this area.
Ten kraj nie zdawa艂 sobie z tego sprawy. Nigdy nie mieli 偶adnych danych z tego rejonu.
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They'd never had any information from the Phoenix Islands.
Nigdy nie mieli 偶adnych informacji z Wysp Phoenix.
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After the talk, the Minister of Fisheries walked up to me and he said, "Greg, do you realize that you are the first scientist who has ever come back and told us what they did?"
Po rozmowie minister rybo艂贸wstwa podszed艂 do mnie i powiedzia艂: "Greg, czy zdajesz sobie spraw臋, 偶e jeste艣 pierwszym naukowcem, kt贸ry wr贸ci艂 i opowiedzia艂 nam, co robi艂?
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He said, "We often issue these permits to do research in our waters, but usually we get a note two or three years later, or a reprint.
". Doda艂: "Cz臋sto udzielamy pozwole艅 na badania w naszych wodach, ale zwykle po dw贸ch czy trzech latach dostajemy notatk臋 lub przedruk.
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Lecz ty jeste艣 pierwszym, kt贸ry wr贸ci艂 i opowiedzia艂, co robi艂.
But you're the first one who's ever come back and told us what you did.
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And we really appreciate that. And we're buying you lunch today.
Naprawd臋 to doceniamy. I to my dzisiaj stawiamy lunch.
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And are you free for dinner?"
Masz czas na obiad?
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And I was free for dinner, and I went out to dinner with the Minister of Fisheries in Kiribati.
". Mia艂em czas na obiad i zjad艂em go razem z Ministrem Rybo艂贸wstwa Kiribati.
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And the deal that they strike is the extracting country gives Kiribati five percent of the landed value.
Interes polega na tym, 偶e kraj, kt贸ry wy艂awia ryby, oddaje Kiribati pi臋膰 procent ze swojego zysku.
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So if the United States removes a million dollars' worth of lobsters from a reef, Kiribati gets 50,000 dollars.
Je艣li wi臋c Stany Zjednoczone z艂owi艂yby w rafie homary warte milion dolar贸w, Kiribati dosta艂oby tylko 50 tys.
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And, you know, it didn't seem like a very good deal to me.
dolar贸w. To nie wygl膮da艂o jak dobry interes.
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Podczas obiadu zada艂em wi臋c ministrowi pytanie: "Wzi膮艂by艣 pod uwag臋 sytuacj臋, kiedy Kiribati nadal dostaje pieni膮dze -- my obliczamy, jak膮 warto艣膰 maj膮 zasoby ryb -- ale wy zostawiacie ryby, rekiny i krewetki w wodzie?
So I asked the Minister over dinner, I said, "Would you consider a situation where you would still get paid -- we do the math and figure out what the value of the resource is -- but you leave fish and the sharks and the shrimp in the water?"
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". Zatrzyma艂 si臋 i odpowiedzia艂: "Tak, chcieliby艣my tego, 偶eby poradzi膰 sobie z problemem nadmiernego po艂owu ryb, i my艣l臋, 偶e nazwaliby艣my to odwr贸con膮 licencj膮 po艂owow膮".
He stopped, and he said, "Yes, we would like to do that to deal with our overfishing problem, and I think we would call it a reverse fishing license."
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He coined the term "reverse fishing license."
Uku艂 termin "odwr贸cona licencja po艂owowa".
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Powiedzia艂em: "Tak, odwr贸cona licencja po艂owowa". Sko艅czyli艣my obiad, tak naprawd臋 nie wiedz膮c, dok膮d nas to zaprowadzi.
So I said, "Yes, a 'reverse fishing license.'" So we walked away from this dinner really not knowing where to go at that point.
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Wr贸ci艂em do Stan贸w i zacz膮艂em szuka膰 przyk艂ad贸w, kiedy udzielono odwr贸conej licencji po艂owowej. Okaza艂o si臋, 偶e nigdy.
I went back to the States and started looking around to see if I could find examples where reverse fishing licenses had been issued, and it turned out there were none.
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There were no oceanic deals where countries were compensated for not fishing.
Nie by艂o takich um贸w, w kt贸rej pa艅stwa dostawa艂yby zap艂at臋 za niewy艂awianie ryb.
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Zdarza艂o si臋 to na l膮dzie, w lasach deszczowych Ameryki Po艂udniowej i w Afryce, gdzie w艂a艣ciciele ziemscy dostawali pieni膮dze za to, 偶e nie 艣cinali drzew.
It had occurred on land, in rainforests of South America and Africa, where landowners had been paid not to cut the trees down.
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And Conservation International had struck some of those deals.
Conservation International zawar艂o niekt贸re z tych um贸w.
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The Oak Foundation and National Geographic have been big funders of this as well.
Oak Foundation i National Geographic tak偶e sponsorowa艂y to przedsi臋wzi臋cie.
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Za艂o偶yli艣my park na zasadzie fundacji, kt贸ra p艂aci艂aby r贸wnowarto艣膰 utraconych licencji po艂owowych temu biednemu pa艅stwu, aby zachowa膰 ten obszar w nienaruszonym stanie,
And we basically founded the park on the idea of an endowment that would pay the equivalent lost fishing license fees to this very poor country to keep the area intact.
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Halfway through this process, I met the president of Kiribati, President Anote Tong.
W po艂owie tego procesu spotka艂em si臋 z prezydentem Kiribati, Anote Tongiem --
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to naprawd臋 wa偶ny przyw贸dca, wizjoner, cz艂owiek my艣l膮cy przysz艂o艣ciowo -- kiedy do niego podszed艂em, powiedzia艂 mi dwie rzeczy:
He's a really important leader, a real visionary, forward-thinking man, and he told me two things when I approached him.
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He said, "Greg, there's two things I'd like you to do.
"Greg, chc臋, 偶eby艣 zrobi艂 dwie rzeczy.
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Po pierwsze, pami臋taj, 偶e jestem politykiem, wi臋c musisz wsp贸艂pracowa膰 z moimi ministrami i przekona膰 ludno艣膰 Kiribati, 偶e to dobry pomys艂.
One is, remember I'm a politician, so you've got to go out and work with my ministers and convince the people of Kiribati that this is a good idea.
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Secondly, I'd like you to create principles that will transcend my own presidency.
Po drugie, chc臋, 偶eby艣 ustanowi艂 zasady, kt贸re przekracza艂yby m贸j urz膮d prezydenta.
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I don't want to do something like this if it's going to go away after I'm voted out of office."
Nie chc臋 robi膰 czego艣 takiego, je艣li si臋 to sko艅czy po mojej prezydenturze".
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So we had very strong leadership, very good vision and a lot of science, a lot of lawyers involved.
Mieli艣my wi臋c bardzo silne kierownictwo, bardzo dobr膮 wizj臋, wielu naukowc贸w i prawnik贸w.
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Musieli艣my zrobi膰 wiele krok贸w, aby tego dokona膰.
Many, many steps were taken to pull this off.
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And it was primarily because Kiribati realized that this was in their own self-interest to do this.
Uda艂o si臋 to g艂贸wnie dlatego, 偶e Kiribati zda艂o sobie spraw臋, 偶e le偶y to w ich interesie.
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They realized that this was a common cause that they had found with the conservation community.
Uzmys艂owili sobie, 偶e jest to wsp贸lna sprawa ich i ludzi zajmuj膮cych si臋 ochron膮 艣rodowiska.
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Potem w roku 2002, kiedy wszystko sz艂o pe艂n膮 par膮, dosz艂o do blakni臋cia koralowc贸w na Wyspach Phoenix.
Then in 2002, when this was all going full-swing, a coral-bleaching event happened in the Phoenix Islands.
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Here's this resource that we're looking to save, and it turns out it's the hottest heating event that we can find on record.
Chcemy uratowa膰 tamten ekosystem, a nagle okazuje si臋, 偶e przysz艂y rekordowo wysokie temperatury.
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