The problem with Vitamin C in skincare
By: Rouba Mustafa
Tags: Uneven Skintone, Beauty, Skincare, Vitamin C, Brightening

Vitamin C is probably the most hyped up skincare ingredient in the skincare world. It is truly the hero ingredient for everybody who is looking to brighten their complexion, get rid of dark spots and even out the skin tone. But, in many cases it really just is not that effective! This blog post is all about the problems with vitamin C and how best to make it work.

The main problem with Vitamin C is that it is an unstable molecule. What this is means is that it oxidises quickly on exposure to light, heat and air, making it physiologically ineffective. Product packaging and potency will determine whether you are getting the real deal, or buying an imposter product. Dr. Zamani gives us a guide on potency here.

Ingredient potency

“When looking for a suitable Vitamin C product, finding the right concentration is important. A potency of 10–20 per cent means that results for the skin will be seen quicker and more uniformly across the skin…A concentration of between 3 and 10 per cent will still be effective, in an L-ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid form.”

Maximum skin absorption of Vitamin C occurs at 20% strength. Increasing the potency beyond this point does not equal better skin absorption! Furthermore, using agents with higher potency levels such as 10% strength and 15% strength will give you more apparent results in a shorter amount of time; but you will risk irritating the skin. With skincare it is best to start with the least potent ingredients so that you can give your skin an opportunity to adapt towards these new and serious ingredients. You can do more harm than good if you just go straight in with 20%, you can always work towards the big boys — please bare this in mind, particularly if you have sensitive skin.

Packaging is more than just what meets the eye!

Before you go and spend £200 on a vitamin C product, because we both know you can find one for that price tag, you should know something about packaging.

Vitamin C can become totally useless if not packaged and stored in the right way. Make sure that you keep it away from light to avoid oxidisation and weakening the potency of the ingredient. Also ensure that the packaging is tightly sealed as too much air has the same effect! Dr Zamani recommends to opt for formulas in “air-tight packaging, pumps or single-use, individually wrapped products”.

Individually wrapped products are great for experienced Vitamin C users. You can be the most sure that the ingredients are stable in this form. DIY kits are a great example, as they isolate the vitamin C powder away from the essence to mix it into, until you are ready to use it.

The different types of Vitamin C, and what to look out for

Now, I highly encourage everybody to really analyse the ingredient list at the back of all products, just to be aware of what you are putting on your face. Ingredient lists go in the order of highest potency: the first ingredient is most present in the product, and the last ingredient is the least present. Vitamin C is not necessarily labelled as ‘vitamin C’ in the ingredient list however, as it comes in many different forms. Dr. Mahto has your vitamin C dictionary, and explains it all here:

Investing in a product that combines vitamin C with ferulic acid and Vitamin E can result in even better skincare results. “Vitamin C can be combined with the anti-ageing, UV damage fighting antioxidant vitamin E, or hyaluronic acid, which penetrates into the dermis boosting the elasticity and hydration of the skin. The protective barrier on the skin locks in moisture, which gives the skin a youthful appearance. It is also often combined with ferulic acid, a powerful antioxidant that combats the free radicals in your skin.”

How should I use vitamin C? A cream? A wash? A mask? A serum?

How you use an ingredient is just as important as the effectiveness of an ingredient; it doesn’t matter how much a product can do for your skin if you are only going to wash it down the sink, right? Serums are your best bet for really getting the most of the super-ingredient, serums usually are the form that include a concentrated and active vitamin C. Serums are also great because it means that you can layer your skincare with minimal problems, whereas using something a little more direct may cause some interference with what you can and cannot mix on top of the vitamin C.

Now, you have had the run down of all of the problems with vitamin C and how to get around them; it might feel like you just do not know what products there are left that actually work! Here are some of my personal favourite vitamin C products, and what I have found actually work.

People with sensitive skin, or people who are trying vitamin C for the first time.

No7’s youthful vitamin C fresh radiance essence is an amazing product to start with. At £19.50, you can pick this up from your local Boots or online from several retailers. The reason that I recommend this so much is because it is a DIY product.

You have to mix and shake a 5% vitamin C strength in with a gel like elixir and the concoction lasts you for a two week ‘course’. Due to the low potency of the product, it is great for sensitive skin and for people who are trying Vitamin C for this first time. Working up to higher potencies is the key to success!

The one thing I really urge with this product is to keep it away from light. As it is a two week course, it does not have too much time to go completely unstable, however you can always prevent this through keeping it away from the light.

People with oilier skin

The Phloretin CF gel is a pricey yet very effective form of vitamin C. At £150.00, Phloretin is dermatologist recommended as a superior brand, but it really does work. This product not only features a 10% strength vitamin C, but it also has Ferulic acid that enhances the benefits of this whole product. Due to its water base, it does not feel too thick or heavy on oily skin, and glides on to the skin, seeping in almost instantly.

The packaging helps to keep the product stable, as it is in a dark and opaque bottle, but always keep vitamin C away from the light anyway, especially if you spent £150 on a bottle!

Best for dry skin

Drunk elephant’s C-firma day serum is an excellent product that combined 15% L-absorbic acid (vitamin C) with Vitamin E. The product also has exfoliating fruit enzymes and hydrating Sodium Hyaluronate to leave the skin looking not only bright and even, but also very smooth thanks to the AHA’s. Alongside the vitamin E, plant oils within the product also provide nourishment to the skin, making it a dream for anybody with dry skin. Although this product is £67.00, it is an amazing investment to get your skin on the right track — I always recommend this product because it just has never ending benefits!

That’s all folks! I hope that this blog post has helped you to understand Vitamin C a little bit better, and hopefully help you to spend your money more wisely.

See you soon,

Roubs,

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