Portraiture and fashion at the National Maritime Museum
By: Art, She Wrote
Tags: Art, Portraits, History, Museums, Fashion

Source: Royal Museums Greenwich

Tudors to Windsors: British Royal Portraits

The new exhibition at the National Maritime Museum (part of Royal Museums Greenwich) in London covers over 500 years of the British Monarchy. From the Tudors to the Windsors, over 150 portraits across five royal dynasties adorn the walls of the museum.

The exhibition brings together artworks from the National Portrait Gallery, Royal Museums Greenwich and private collections, and is a testament to how portraiture has evolved over the centuries from Henry VII to Elizabeth II.

For many centuries, portraits were as close as the nation’s subjects could get to their monarch — on paintings, sculptures, stamps and coins; and from the sixteenth century and beyond, these representations increasingly became more faithful to the King or Queen’s image. Yet, the monarch had control over the imagery painted of them, which meant that they were able to shape how they were portrayed — in all their grace or splendour.

The exhibition not only stands out for the development of the English portrait painting tradition, or the intricate and beautiful brushwork, but also for the fashion the monarchs have donned.

And, for this reason, I have put my Project Runway judges’ hat on and decided to rate the fashion I saw at the Tudors to Windsors exhibition.

The Tudors

First up, we have Henry VII.

Henry sent this painting to seduce Margaret of Austria, a potential suitor after his first wife passed away.

The intentions seem pure (check out the flower), and I like the bling, but it’s too understated. I give this a 3/10.

Henry VII by unidentified artist, 1505

Next up we have the bling king himself, Henry VIII. As you can see, he pioneered the 90s brow and has a strong accessory game; look at those jewels. This is all-round elaborate, taking his fathers’ style to the next level. 8/10.

Robert Dudley, the 1st Earl of Leicester, was a favourite of Elizabeth I. I can see why — he’s rocking some amazing frills. A strong look. Not a monarch, but I’ll give it a 6/10. Probably a tad too generous, but the details of this painting are impressive, so much so, I didn’t bother with a picture of his face.

The details on Elizabeth I dress are so crazy, the woman knew how to rock a gown. Check out the full attire here if you dare. I’m giving it a 9/10 — a true fashion G.

Elizabeth I (the ‘Ditchley portrait’) by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, about 1592

Quick shoutout to Mary, Queen of Scots for this patterned number. The pearls in the hair and feather on the hat also deserve attention. 5/10.

Mary, Queen of Scots by an unidentified artist, about 1560–92.

The Stuarts

With the death of Elizabeth I, it was the reign of James I that followed.

More worthy of mention, however, was his lover George Villiers who was described as the “handsomest bodied man of England”.

George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham. Attributed to William Larkin, about 1616.

Look at the pose, the thumbs up, the hair, the hat…the neck collar! He looks like one of those frilly-necked dinosaurs — I’m jealous. Another strong 9/10. I feel like the turn of the 17th century is giving me FASHION.

Now, James I produced some fashionista offspring.

First up, Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales, in a look at deserved to be on RuPaul’s Drag Race “clash of patterns” challenge. He’s got it all — the pose, the smizing, the collar, the gloves, the hat, the dress (?)…

Henry Frederick, by Robert Peake the Elder, c. 1610.

BUT THE SHOES 😱 10/10 because they look painful to walk in. I can only imagine the legendary looks he would’ve pulled off if he hadn’t caught typhoid fever.

Henry Frederick, by Robert Peake the Elder, c. 1610.

Next, his sister, Princess Elizabeth Stuart (later Electress Palatine and Queen of Bohemia). Her waist is CINCHED for the gods. The details on this dress are beautiful, but it looks too heavy for a walk around Richmond Park — 5/10.

Princess Elizabeth Stuart, by Robert Peake the Elder, 1613.

With Henry Frederick’s premature death, his brother Charles I ascended the throne in 1625. Nothing to see here, so I’ll move onto his son.

After his father’s beheading, the abolition of the monarchy, and the Commonwealth of England was established as a republic, Charles II ascended the throne in a period known as The Restoration.

Baby Charles looked oblivious to what was to come, rocking the short fringe before it became fashionable. The lace shoulders also really complement the hairdo — 6/10. Points deducted for poking the dog’s eye.

There was a lot going on in this King’s reign — the Great Plague, Great Fire of London, and many lovers. Just look at his face, he’d had enough. He mastered the “slumped on couch look”, but there’s no denying that the man knew about fashion. An all round flamboyant look I approve of — 9/10.

Leaving no legitimate children, Charles I was succeeded by his brother, James II. And although hated by his people, you can’t say that James II (1672) didn’t have style. Pure chaos — I live.

James, Duke of York, by Henri Gascar, 1672–73.

There’s so much going on, I simply cannot do it justice. The hair and tache, the vibrant colours, the ribbon around the waist, the 3/4 length tights, the nipple tassels, and… the SHOES

James, Duke of York, by Henri Gascar, 1672–73.

Just wow — 10/10.

A shoutout to James II son-in-law William of Orange who took over the throne whilst being ON BRAND — 6/10.

William of Orange, by Jan Wyck, 1688.

Queen Anne soon followed, but from a fashion point-of-view, hard to follow her father’s act. 5/10.

The Georgians

The Hanoverians reigned during this period, and served some extravagant fashion. For some reason, this section in the exhibition was much smaller than the other eras, but was full of ermine fur and curly wigs — a delight for the eyes.

Following Georges I and II, the third George really went for it. Dressed head to toe in gold, he looks pretty epic. The fur, the bows, the tassels; a solid 8/10.

Coronation portrait by Allan Ramsay, 1762. Source: Google Art Project.

This close-up shows how extra he was; layers of fur, gold and bling. And a safety belt around his waist for good measure.

His wife Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz also had a lot going on; shame I didn’t take a full body shot, because the details on her dress were INSANE. The woman had 15 children and still found time to be stylish — 9/10.

Portrait by Thomas Gainsborough, 1781.

The extravagant life of George IV earned him the title of “the first gentleman of England”. Here, the portrait portrays him as Prince Regent, before things went downhill. 2/10, not much fashion going on here.

George, Prince of Wales, by Sir Thomas Lawrence, c. 1814.

The Victorians

Fast-forward 70-odd years, Queen Victoria took to the throne.

Queen Victoria by Sir George Hayter, 1863.

Here, she looks slightly more understated compared to the pomp and frills of Georgian times — how sad. The Victorians were pretty somber. 6/10, the crown saves the look; check out the jewels!

Queen Victoria, by Bertha Muller, 1900.

She couldn’t be bothered here — 3/10.

The Windsors

A couple of Kings later, George V ascended the throne in 1910 after becoming heir-apparent following the death of his brother.

The wedding of Prince George (later George V) and Princess Victoria Mary of Teck, by W. & D. Downey, 1893.

People didn’t seem to enjoy the wedding of George V — look at the guests’ faces; they’re probably unimpressed by the lack of symmetry of those medals on his chest. Queen Mary looks good though — 5/10.

Next, George VI is looking peachy and regal — a 6/10 as he looks smooth, and that fabric looks expensive.

George VI, by Meredith Frampton, 1929.

And that brings us to Elizabeth II who worked as a truck driver and mechanic during the war and obviously rocked this boiler suit — 8/10 as beige tones are very in fashion today.

The Queen’s wedding was also unpopular with some people…

LOL.

And a bonus shoutout to this style icon; one of the first (if not first) royal portraits of a woman wearing trousers. A true boss.

Diana, Princess of Wales by Bryan Organ, 1981.

And that’s it! A fashion tour of the “Tudors to Windsor” exhibition. If you’re into portraiture and fashion, I hope this review has tickled your fancy — now go check the exhibition out!