Mid-Market’s New Slice of Spain Has All the Art Deco Vibes
By: Virginia Miller
Tags: Wine Bar, Spanish, Restaurant, Food, Foodies

The seductive space is one of the key factors separating La Bande from other tapas/wine/aperitivo bars. Designed by Kelly Wearstler, the triangular corner spot is lofty yet intimate, given extended tables under a long sidewalk tent, glowing with lights and heat lamps. The 1908 Beaux-Arts flatiron building is an 1800s architectural style, though the feel is more 1920s Art Deco, recalling the best of New York, SF, LA and Chicago in that era. Wearstler’s eye makes it feel fresh yet respects its history with green marble and tiles, brass, black and white stripes, dim lighting and Iberico ham on the counter when available (it’s tough to source right now, like so many things). Sherry, Madeira, Spanish wines and vermouth line shelving above and behind the bar/kitchen counter. This space feels oh-so Spain yet truly SF and U.S. It’s one sultry combination.

Warm and cold tapas, pinxtos (bites), plancha-grilled dishes, house bread, Galician conservas (tinned seafood), charcuterie and cheeses: it’s all here, with necessary Spanish imports alongside locally-farmed and foraged vegetables. Whether salt cod croquettes, cold, comforting potato tortilla (aka Spanish omelette) or the simple, garlic-laced perfection of pan con tomate (tomato toasts), this is Spain-worthy eats. From silky mortadella to Rioja chorizo or rabbit terrine, the charcuterie is on point. Ditto the cheeses, from lush Andazul goat’s milk blue cheese to smoked Etxegarai sheep’s milk cheese.

La Bande’s blood sausage and chickpeas. (Photo: Courtesy of Virginia Miller)

California/modern touches come in mini-smoked salmon avocado toasts or roasted pumpkin and sunchokes. Grilled a la plancha dishes include squid or mini-truffled ham and cheese sandwiches (ideal drinking food). While white beans and pork shoulder is a heartier shared plate, my number one dish over multiple visits was the similarly heftier spinach, chickpeas, and blood sausage bowl. This dish nailed sweet-savory contrast with spiced-sweet, crumbled blood sausage intermingling with savory and vegetal. All three desserts win, especially Spanish almond cake, balancing sweetness and nuttiness.

As with other Proper SF restaurants, Josh Harris’ BVHospitality created the cocktails and drink list. When it comes to cocktails, it’s straightforward, whether a Nitro Negroni or Fiero Spritz. There are two versions each — white and red — of a classic Negroni, Americano or Sbagliato (sparkling Negroni). While there’s Gin & Tonic Service for 4–6 people, complete with garnishes and pricey German Monkey 47 gin, the single Gin & Tonic on the menu was just a basic G&T in a tall glass vs. Spain’s ubiquitous goblet/stemware and garnishes style. Drinks pair well with the food and though common, are made well. Rather than offering Spanish vermut (an exciting world on its own), the vermouth list is just four offerings, all from Italy or France, but served as in Spain: on the rocks with an olive and a citrus twist.

I’m more into the wine list (there are also seven European and local beers on draft), particularly with Spanish pours like a 2019 Viñátigo Tenerife Islas Canarias Listan Blanco from one of my favorite wine regions in Spain, the Canary Islands. The acidic, chalky ease of a 2020 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina sings with seafood dishes, while a longtime go-to Spanish cidre (cider) of mine, crisp-punchy Isastegi Sagardo Naturala pairs nicely with many a dish (there are also two French ciders on offer).

La Bande’s charcuterie. (Photo: Courtesy of Virginia Miller)

The real drink highlight was vintage Madeira from D’Oliveira with La Bande’s collection dating back to the 1930s. Granted, Madeira is from Portugal/the island of Madeira. But as a close neighbor to Spain, the fortified wine pairs with the food beautifully (as does Spanish sherry). Post-dinner, we sampled Madeiras from 1994, 1989, 1987 and 1973, covering the gamut from nutty complexity to raisin-y lushness. Each wowed (especially the ’73 with its welcome mustiness and age), further warming a chilly night already warmed by kind service, heartwarming tapas, conversation and drink.

Savoring the aged Madeira tied together the unique history of the building with its new inhabitant. In its striking but snug space, La Bande marries Spain with San Francisco, as it unites New and Old World, traditional Spanish tapas and bites with modern freshness and ease. If we were going to have another Spanish restaurant, I’m grateful it’s one that brings something original to the equation in a space as beautiful as this. ¡Mola!

// 1100 Market St., www.properhotel.com/san-francisco/restaurants-bars/la-bande