My Virtual Wine Study: the Northern Rhône
By: William Newman
Tags: Rhone, Wine Industry, France, Wine, Wine Tasting

With travel largely canceled in 2020, I’ve been working my way through Rajat Parr’s seminal tome The Atlas of Taste. One of the regions of France that Mssr. Parr expands in his own eloquence is the Northern Rhône.

While the Southern Rhône may kick ass in terms of numbers (of wine varietal and AOC) … the greatest wines are never about numbers. There are no celebrity maps, no stylish hotels, restaurants or wine bars. In fact … we find quaint old towns that capture the rustic beauty of rural France.

As with other virtual wine studies, this is not an exercise in blind tasting. Rather this virtual wine study is an opportunity to compare and contrast, to map taste and terroir with place, and to delineate the specific nuances that create wine across various AOC in a particularly region.

Hermitage

Perhaps the most intriguing geologicially and stunning visually of the Northern Rhône AOC is Hermitage. While Mssr. Parr and others liken the area to a “giant chunk of granite,” the domains that dot the largely south facing slopes that reach into 100+ meters could inspire even the driving tourist. Cold winters and hot summers punctuate the continental climate with swirling winds capturing cool air masses as they make their way across the valley. While white wine can be made here, the dominant wine is red and varietal Syrah.

This 2017 La Maison Bleu from Domaine Paule Jaboulet is pale purple in color with light aromas of dark currant and cassis. Robust palate of blackberry, forest floor and a bit of black pepper with moderate tannins on the lengthy and ruddy finish. Quite pleasant with ribs and blueberry tort. Outstanding wine.

Crozes-Hermitage

If Hermitage is the high rent hillside of the Northern Rhône, then Crozes-Hermitage represents the nearby suburbs. While lacking in significant elevation of its lauded neighbor, Crozes-Hermitage is no less influenced by the terroir surrounding the slopes with some vineyards positioned for south facing exposure and slight elevation.

The Les Pierrelles 2017 by Domaine Belle wafts full cherry aromas with traces of Maduro tobacco on the nose. Medium palate of dark red currant thyme and more tobacco leaf on the moderate finish. Largely Syrah with up to 15% Marsanne and Rousanne white blends this 14% ABV speaks to the valley surrounding its more famous — and expensive — elevation neighbor at the Hermitage AOC. Very approachable and under $30/btl. Very good wine.

Saint-Joseph

Across the Rhône river from the “Great Hill” of Hermitage lies Saint-Joseph. Started as an appellation of six villages in 1956, the focus may be found in the one village directly across from Hermitage — Tournon. Good wine according to Mssr. Parr “has been made here since the middle ages, and surely even longer.” Lower elevation, river sediment and rolling hillsides with less direct sunlight during harvest notes the earthiness and profile of largely Syrah area once farmed by peasants.

The 2017 Domaine Courbis from remains a Syrah base and south facing though unlike Hermitage not at such elevation. Pale purple in color with light aromas of olive, dark cassis and sage. Balanced mouth feel on the palate of gooseberry, white pepper notes and sage. Moderate acidity on the medium finish. Better with food than alone, very good wine.

Cornas

Last stop on the Northern Rhône valley virtual wine study is Cornas. Down the road a few clicks from Hermitage and very different taste profile than that of the Saint-Joseph AOC. Pale dark purple color with medium aromas of shale, pie crust and blueberries. Grippy tannins on the palate of currant gravel and a hint of clove on a prolonged finish. As a “dirt guy” I love this 2017 offer from Domaine Courbis, and it was interesting to compare and contrast the same vintage and same producer as with Saint-Joseph. Outstanding wine.