Italy takes off the masks (just for some gelato)
By: The Whole Beast
Tags: Ice Cream, Coronavirus, Food Writing, Italy, Food

Italy takes off the masks (just for some gelato)

Loosening of the lockdown due to Covid-19 pandemic tests the prudence of Italian citizens, who seem dangerously confident the whole beast May 11, 2020·3 min read

(photo credit: TheWholeBeast)

It’s beautiful out there. The word on the street is that for years Springtime wasn’t that pleasant. Maybe one could blame it on the lockdown, which potentialized the beauty of little things. As Phase 2 of the gradual reopening of the economy here in Italy eases the eagerness for going outdoors, part of the old normality establishes back. However still demands the practices of social distancing and the adoption of face masks, which are of mandatory use in indoor environments.

A week went by, and life gets strangely normal, besides the lack of smiles. Kids are allowed back on the streets, biking, skating, hanging out since schools remain closed. No team sports, though. Also, the “keep away” sign remains at the playgrounds.

The thing is that it may develop a false sense of security from the virus. Sars-CoV-2 keeps on spreading, despite the flattening of the curve. There’s fear alright: people cross to the other side of the streets to avoid physical contact. But, after two months of lockdown, the freedom for dislocating from one place to another without being stopped by the police is somewhat irresistible.

Still, no handshakes, no visiting friends, no bars or restaurants with table service — the prognostic for dining out is set for Phase 3, from June 1st. But since last Monday, May (the) 4th (be with you), Italy slowly restores its main cultural traits foodwise: shopping from the local farmers market, having some early morning pastry-coffee colazione (breakfast), and, of course, the gelato.

The gelaterie were among the most affected business in Italy for a particular issue of bad timing. The ice cream shops usually rest closed from one to two, or even three, months during winter. So as the Carnival marked the gradual reopening of these places, the pandemic of Covid-19 engulfed the retail stores as a hungry giant just when the sun came out, and the skies turned blue.

Phase 2 came as a literal refreshment for the Italian people. Going back to their close-to-the-heart neighborhood coffee shop is not quite the same thing, though. The so-called new-normal consists of sipping espresso outside of the joint or having it as a takeaway drink. This may be quite an ordinary thing, about the American imaginaries, but culturally of significant impact even for the most cosmopolitan Italian cities.

As part of dystopic Italy, going to the local farmer’s market is now a police business. A though control of lines and of people who enter and leave is now the way to shop for fruit and veggies. No touching the products, which kills me. Part of the beauty of going to the farmer’s market is to touch and smell the freshness of the harvest, get to know with some degree of intimacy the one cabbage stalk that sensually looked to you… Now the relationship buyer-ingredient is also under the laws of social distancing.

Phase 2 is driving people to do the infamous revenge shopping with a twist. We’re not speaking just of the high-end luxury retail sector, but the little things. The philosophy is the same behind that kind of shopping: we’re going to purchase whatever because now we can do it freely. So, people may be drinking more coffee and more gelato just because they’ve got deprived of the possibility of doing so for such a long time.

Ultimately, that’s good for business. Especially for the gelaterie, surprised with more extended vacations than they could’ve afforded. To survive the pandemic times, some ice cream stores started delivering, so as most food businesses.

But for the Italian imaginaries, eating gelato as a genuine experience is not something you do at home. It may be useful to freeze the sorrows in the quarantine, but that feels more like using an ice pack for a wound of the soul. The truth is that you can’t top the experience of having a cone with an unpretentious walk under the sunlight. Masks off. Coffee and gelato on!