West Oakland’s Gastronomic Renaissance
By: Matt Charnock
Tags: Bay Area, Restaurant, Food, Oakland, This Just In

Oakland’s food scene, while it’s long been eclectic and excellent, has completely blown up during the past few years—so much so that it’s safe to say that the East Bay’s culinary scene is officially more exciting than San Francisco’s.

While neighborhoods like Temescal and Uptown have received the majority of the attention, many still consider the dynamic neighborhood of West Oakland a foodie desert. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. In fact, even though beloved Brown Sugar Kitchen recently closed its doors after 10 years in the area to open in Uptown and the SF Ferry building, plenty of other culinary endeavors are taking place—perhaps more than the neighborhood has ever seen.

From community-first grocers like the soon-to-open People’s Community Market to thriving community gardens to a melting pot of global and local tastes, it’s time for you to get eating in West Oakland. We’ve rounded up the most exciting places where you should sip and savor now.

Where to Eat

Photo courtesy of Soba Ichi

Just over a year old, this Magnolia Street noodle emporium has amassed a loyal following thanks to its homemade soba noodles—a rare find outside of Japan and certainly in the United States. In fact, its chef, Koichi Ishii, is the Bay Area’s only one hand-making them from scratch. He whips up only a handful of batches each day, including both jyuwari soba, consisting of 100 percent buckwheat flour, and nihachi soba, a blend of 80 percent buckwheat flour and 20 percent wheat flour. The entirely buckwheat ones, more difficult to craft, often sell out.

The calming wood-filled restaurant—designed by Zen Buddhist priest and master wood craftsman Paul Discoe—sits inside industrial park O2 Artisans Aggregate. Diners can order their soba hot or cold, along with sides such as delicately fried tempura vegetables, pickles and miso-simmered herring. The beverage list is also extensive and geographically “on brand,” including Japanese beers, shochu and sake. Wait times often exceed 45 minutes—but trust us when we say it’s worth it.

2311 Magnolia Street | www.sobaichioakland.com

No, butter is not a carb. But it’s the caloric law of the land at 10th & Wood, a neighborhood staple that opened in 2014 by owner Anastasia Levitansky. The community-focused cafe prides itself on responding to what its neighbors want, saying it specializes in “Oakland cuisine.”

Biscuits slathered with homemade white gravy and pork hashes round out the breakfast offerings. Lunch is an ode to old-school patty melts and the overstuffed sandwiches of yesteryear delicatessens. And don’t forget the beignets, which are perfectly draped with liberal amounts of powdered sugar. To top it all off, dishes at 10th & Wood rarely cost more than $12.

945 Wood Street | www.10thandwood.com

Oakland has plenty of good taco joints, but La Perla is up there as a resident favorite, perched alongside West Oakland’s ever-changing scene along West Grant Avenue near BART. The truck opened nearly a decade ago and still sees long lines on weekdays (but isn’t open on weekends).

If you go, make sure to try their “tripas” (tripe) and “lengua” (tongue) tortilla foldings or less adventurous offerings such as carnitas or al pastor, which are also excellent. Once your burrito or tacos are in hand, there’s nothing to do but savor the sustenance in front of you, complemented by a cold bottle of Jarritos.

1395 7th Street | www.facebook.com/pages/La-Perla-Taco-Truck

Every neighborhood needs a good diner, and Pretty Lady is filling that spot in West Oakland. Old fashioned in many ways (with its U-shaped counter with stools and its kitschy decor), the restaurant is less traditional in others—including its menu, which puts a Korean twist on American classics.

Dishes include everything from homemade strawberry cheesecakes to teriyaki rice plates to both cheesesteaks and breakfast burritos that could double as dumbells. The best part? Anyone can request a complimentary plate of homemade kimchi.

1615, 1733 Peralta Street | www.facebook.com/prettyladyrestaurant