A New Take on Napa
By: Dena Roché
Tags: Napa Wine Tasting, Wine, Napa, Napa Wineries, Wine Tasting

Image Courtesy of Faust

With more than 375 wineries offering tastings, a visit to Napa is a must-do pilgrimage for any oenophile, but with so many choices it can be hard to decide where to sip your Sauvignon Blanc and swirl your cabernet.

On my recent trip to Napa I decided to forgo the obvious big names like Stag’s Leap or Cakebread to focus on smaller, family-run wineries that I was less likely to stumble upon during a Total Wine run in Phoenix.

Since the pandemic, nearly every winery, including those I visited, requires advance reservations. On the plus side, the tastings are much more private, intimate and informative than simply bellying up to a tasting bar and flying through a flight. The setting and experience now is much more befitting the quality of wine these wineries are producing.

Larkmead Vineyards

Founded in 1895, Larkmead Vineyards in Calistoga is one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Napa. Since 1948 it has been under the stewardship of the Solari family.

I was met on the porch by my host and taken to an enclosed patio, with a roaring fire and chairs adorned with warm throws; perfect for the rainy December day. The mist above the vineyards gave the entire setting a magical touch.

During the Estate Tasting we sampled four wines from the 110-acres of vineyards. With each wine coming from grapes grown in different soils it was a true taste of terroir.

While we tasted our way through the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, which is actually a Bordeaux blend, the 2018 Solari, which is 100 percent cabernet and the 2015 Firebelle, another Bordeaux blend, our host Erinn not only told us about the wine, but also the fascinating history of Larkmead.

The first family to own the land was the famous Coit family from San Francisco. It was their daughter Lillie who put Larkmead on the wine map. In the late 1800s Lillie was everything a good society woman wasn’t — she drank bourbon, smoked cigars and played poker. Her distraught parents sent her to their country estate in Napa, hoping the tranquil country life would rub off on her. It didn’t. Instead Lillie became even more of a bad ass, creating the winery and throwing wild salons for her artistic and intellectual friends to gather to share ideas and drinks. It’s no surprise that the Firebelle is an homage to her.

When I said the Firebelle was my favorite of the wines sampled, a 2011 Firebelle was brought out to compare it with. The extra aging and the difference in the blends made the 2011 even more special.

Davis Estates

Photo Courtesy of Davis Estates

Davis Estates is the perfect midday stop to enjoy a wine tasting paired lunch. In 2011 the Davis family purchased the century-old estate and did a massive renovation, including building an 11,000 sq. ft. cave.

The caves not only store the wine, they also offer spaces for tasting and a way to showcase the extensive art collection Mike and Sandy Davis have accumulated. The art loving couple gifts each other a piece of art on each wedding anniversary. Sandy’s tastes run to beautiful glass pieces, while Mike’s art is more masculine and whimsical.

Members of the winery’s Founder’s club have access to a cellarium in the cave. This private area is accessed with a hand scan and can hold eight lucky souls for a tasting. The jaw-dropping chandelier above the table is another true work of art.

Photo courtesy Davis Estates

After a tour of the cave we’re ushered into a lounge space for the tasting and lunch created by Executive Mark Caldwell. Had the weather cooperated I would have opted to sit on the outdoor terrace on one of the large swinging sofas to enjoy both the food and wine and the bucolic Calistoga landscape.

My menu was catered for a non-meat eater. The first course paired the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc with a green apple and butternut squash soup. The wine was fuller bodied than a New Zealand sauvignon, which I prefer. It was so good we ended up buying it to pair with our pescatarian Christmas dinner during the trip.

The next course, a crostini with carmody cheese and a bourbon fig compote was paired with the 2018 Classic Chase, a Cabernet Franc focused Bordeaux blend. The wine was smooth with layers of berry, spices and herbaceousness. It was my favorite wine of the tasting.

The 2017 Oakville Cabernet paired with a roasted cauliflower, sautéed spinach and garlic mashed potato dish. The 2017 Zephyr was made with four of the Bordeaux varietals and barrel aged for 28 months in French Oak. The result was a full-bodied red that was lovely now and will only get better with age. The braised red cabbage with chestnuts, roasted squash, caraway crumble and a Huckleberry reduction made for an interesting pairing that brought out the wines flavors of cherry, black currant and chocolate notes.

Faust

Image courtesy of Faust

After three years of renovation, Faust opened its Faust Haus in late 2020. The 1800s Victorian home in St. Helena is a former farmstead and housed a prohibition-era speakeasy.

I’m lead to a table on the large wrap around porch, thankfully outfitted with heaters and wool blankets for an estate tasting of Faust’s portfolio. The haus has several rooms allowing for private tastings. The downstairs plays up the sultry, lusty nature of a good big red, while the upstairs is a minimalist Scandinavian design perfectly paired to the luscious Sauvignon Blanc. Our host told us that there are stories that that the basement is haunted. While he personally hadn’t experienced anything, others claim to have seen chairs flying around the space.

Image courtesy of Faust

However most people’s only otherworldly experience will be tasting the sublime wines. While Faust is known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, I found myself agreeing with the host that the Merlot was my favorite. Merlot is finally experiencing a resurgence in Napa after the 2004 movie Sideways killed the popularity of the grape. The Lure is 100 percent Merlot and is an homage to old school Napa. It’s juicy, lush and fruit-forward and can pair with a wide range of food, making it a great dinner party or holiday choice.

The other wine I adored was The Hour, a Syrah that Faust paired with corn nuts and pimento cheese of all things. While Napa is known for cab, it does a pretty mean Syrah.

The Pact is Faust’s 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and the fact that the grapes come from Coombsville, the coldest part of Napa, helps this cab standout from the many cabs of Napa. It’s a wine that can pair with fatty fish, which as a pescatarian who loves red, I appreciate.

Charles Krug

Image courtesy of Charles Krug

When most people hear Krug, they think of bubbles, but Charles Krug, the oldest winery in Napa, isn’t that Krug.

The winery was started by Charles Krug; the father of Napa winemaking and since 1943 has been part of the Mondavi family. Today it’s part of the Peter Mondavi Sr. Family Estate.

The Krug tasting was a bit more traditional than any of the others, held inside a large tasting room, albeit with each party seated at socially distanced tables.

My favorite sips were from some of the portfolios more expensive reds.

Image courtesy of Charles Krug

The 2018 Generations honors the four generations of Mondavi winemakers. The Cabernet Franc Bordeaux blend is full-bodied with scents of berries, dark chocolate and tobacco. The grapes were night-picked and with near perfect growing conditions in 2018 the wine is a great expression of a Bordeaux blend.

Krug’s flagship wine, the 2017 Vintage Selection, is a standout full-bodied cabernet with baked berry, vanilla, coffee and caramel aromas. The elegant wine not only drew my favor, but also received 93 points from Robert Parker and 94 from James Suckling.

With so many wineries in Napa you can visit many times and never have the same experience twice. Next time you’re in the Valley, take a chance and explore some of the small, boutique, family-owned operations to find some great bottles of wine that aren’t the everyday options at your local wine shop.