Mask-light Holidaying in Greece. Living in Copenhagen, capital of one of…
By: Mikael Colville-Andersen
Tags: Denmark, Facemasks, Greece, Covid 19

We had an overnight stay in Athens before heading to the island. The taxi required them, as well as only being allowed to carry two passengers. The driver asked where we were from and when we replied “Denmark”, he knew that our country did well through COVID. He then said he didn’t mind if we didn’t wear masks as “the police aren’t checking today”. The hotel was a self check-in, due to eliminating personal contact because of COVID-19, but it was easy and efficient. The remote controls for the TV and AC were covered in plastic film. Breakfast was in the fridge. The jacuzzi on the roof was empty. Otherwise, it all felt normal.

We wandered the streets of Old Athens and found a café in the afternoon. Serving staff are required to wear masks, but not customers on the outdoor seating. It was here that we noticed that masks were usually around the chin, ready to be pulled up in a hurry. No customers wore them and we saw people wearing them on busses and coming out of Metro stations, but they immediately took them off when disembarking, shoving them into bags or pockets.

On the way back to the airport the next day, the taxi driver said that the police “were checking today” and we would get fined €150 if they saw us without masks, so we wore them. No problem. The airport lounge in Athens seemed to be an acceptable mask-free zone - fair enough when you’re consuming drinks and food.

Arrival at the tiny airport on the island was quick and efficient and we soon arrived at the hotel. Our host had a full visor on and welcomed us with a rundown of the Greek rules for masks - carry one in your pocket or beach bag and wear them in the shops or risk a €150 fine - and the shop would get slapped with a €500 fine. We never saw the hotel staff — a family — with masks after that first impression. We were told that the hotel would only clean the rooms every third day - another regulation from the authorities - and the pool was empty. We are only 100 metres from the beach, so no problem there.

Outside a supermarket: “Do you have the masks? I thought YOU had the masks… oh here they are”

During our three weeks on the island, we followed the locals’ lead. We dutifully pulled out our crumpled masks to enter shops and supermarkets and on short taxi rides. We found some new ones for the trip home. As we entered the shops, the staff put on theirs. No big deal. Although if you knew the locals - and they recognised you - we could pop in quickly without one.

All of the serving staff have them on, but often they are around their chin, ready to be pulled up. The authorities sent a squad of off-island cops to police mask-wearing among the staff at tavernas and in shops. If the staff have them covering their nose and mouth, you know the cops are around. Word-of-mouth travels fast in small communities.

The Greeks are similar to the Danes in many ways. A unique culture surrounded by other countries that are very different in culture and language. We all listen to the authorities and take the pandemic seriously but both of our cultures are pragmatic (from the Greek pragmatikos ‘relating to fact’, from pragma ‘deed’ (from the stem of prattein ‘do’)) and while everyone I have spoken to here completely understand the necessity of the rules, we’re from countries that did so well in the face of COVID, so we’re doing the right thing, going through the motions, but also freestyling a bit.

Interestingly, I had to overnight at the local hospital after a minor tumble and stitches to the head - just to be sure. Nobody in the ward - patients or staff - were wearing masks - although they did in the emergency ward. We arrived in an ambulance, but otherwise nobody is allowed to enter the hospital grounds without having a good reason. They take your photo and ask you a bunch of questions. A guarded perimeter around the hospital.

Tourists from other countries arrived during our stay. You could spot the newbies by their masks on their chin or tied around their wrist or overarm. They disappear from view the next day after the newbies realise that nobody is wearing them. They are stuck in their pockets until they need to visit a supermarket. The French and Italians who arrived in Greece by car report that they were stopped and tested thoroughly at the border. Greece is protecting its border very efficiently and allowing for a certain espace libre within.

We calculated that during the 504 hours we spent on the Greek island, we wore a facemask for about 90 minutes. Popping in and out of shops or supermarkets and the occasional short taxi ride. Basically the same as all the locals and other tourists.

Some of the rules regarding bars and clubs were tightened after we arrived, due to a few infections in Greece’s second-largest city, Thessaloniki, but that has little consequence on this island, with only one nightclub.

Danish politicians and health authorities at a press conference on 09 August, 2020

Infections are rising around Europe once again - we follow the news closely like everyone else. Greece continues to do fine and Denmark, as well, with only some local infection spikes that the authorities are tackling. While we were gone, the Danish authorities for the first time ever, started suggesting mask use. Loosely suggesting to use them on public transport — when it’s busy — and also making them mandatory on public transport in seven towns with infection spikes. But they are making clear that masks are merely a supplement to hygiene and social distancing. They are very clear and strategic in their language that masks are just a part of the bigger picture.

Free COVID-19 testing station at Copenhagen Airport for arriving passengers

We also knew that Copenhagen Airport has free COVID-19 testing for arriving passengers. We arrived at midnight and it was still open. We exited the airport and took off our tired old masks and rode the Metro home with our fellow Copenhageners— ready to return to daily life after a brilliant and safe summer holiday.