How You Make Our All-Time Best Recipes In Winter Testy Testy Yummy Yummy :
By: M Usama
Tags: Food, SEO, Self Improvement, Cooking, Recipe

If anyone should know if a recipe’s a keeper, it’s the person tasked with making sense of the original instructions — from the far reaches of Sri Lanka, say, or a famous chef who measures nothing. This might explain why many test kitchen staffers named favorites that their predecessors had tested and recommended. (Though a couple put forth recipes they developed themselves.) And while Saveur never shies away from the oddball authentic ingredient, the fare on the following pages is the stuff we cook at home, over and over again. Consider it global comfort food.

Chilaquiles

SERVES 6 • Total: 1 hr. 25 min.

Vivian Jao and I tested this recipe with and without the chicken bouillon powder and decided that it definitely tasted so much more addictive with. We called it “crack-quiles” and could not stop eating it. I have made this truly delicious, down-to-earth dish numerous times since, for both upscale dinner parties and game-day snacking. It’s always a big hit.

Judy Joo, test kitchen assistant, 2004–2005

2 cups corn or canola oil, divided

Eighteen 6-in. corn tortillas, cut into sixths

1½ lb. (about 3 large) vine-ripened tomatoes

4 medium jalapeños

2 medium garlic cloves, peeled

1 medium white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped (2 cups)

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, divided

2 Tbsp. chicken bouillon powder (optional)

2½ cups shredded boiled chicken (optional)

¾ cup Mexican crema or sour cream

4 oz. cotija cheese, crumbled

Pickled jalapeños, for topping (optional)

1 Line a large baking sheet with a few layers of dry paper towels and set it aside. To a large, heavy skillet over medium heat, add 1 cup oil; when the oil is hot, working in batches, fry the tortillas until crisp and golden, 3–4 minutes per batch. Using a slotted metal spoon or spider skimmer, transfer the chips to the lined baking sheet as you continue frying the rest. Discard the oil, wipe out the skillet, and set aside.

2 To a medium pot, add the tomatoes, jalapeños, and garlic. Measure ¼ cup of the onions for garnish and set them aside; add half of the remaining onions to the pot, as well as enough cold water to just cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, lower the heat to maintain a strong simmer, and cook until the tomatoes are very soft, 18–20 minutes. Add ¼ cup of the cilantro and continue cooking 1 minute more. Drain the vegetables, discarding the cooking liquid. Peel and core the tomatoes and stem the jalapeños (for a milder sauce, remove and discard the japaleño seeds). Transfer the vegetables to a blender and purée to make a smooth sauce, then set aside.

3 In the reserved skillet, heat the remaining oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add all but the reserved ¼ cup of onions and cook, stirring frequently, until they are softened and translucent, 7–9 minutes. Stir in the reserved vegetable sauce and chicken bouillon powder (if using), turn the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Add the fried tortillas and chicken (if using), stirring and turning to coat with the sauce. Simmer until the tortillas are tender but still chewy, 2–3 minutes. Transfer the chilaquiles to a warm platter, top with crema or sour cream, cotija cheese, and pickled jalapeños (if using), then garnish with the remaining cilantro and onions. Serve hot.

Originally published in Issue 78, October 2004

Gougères

MAKES 45 • Total: 1 hr. 15 min.

Melissa Hamilton, who was Saveur’s food editor when I ran the test kitchen, pointed me toward this old recipe, which predated both of our stints there. l still make these French cheese puffs often, especially if I’m having people over for dinner.

Vivian Jao, test kitchen director, 2004–2005

½ cup whole milk

8 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut in small cubes

½ tsp. kosher salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

4 large eggs, at room temperature

6 oz. Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated (1½ cups)

1 Preheat the oven (with its 2 racks evenly spaced) to 425°F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.

2 To a medium pot, add the milk, butter, salt, and ½ cup water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the flour and use a wood spoon to beat the mixture until a soft dough forms. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pot as you stir, 2–3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, then use a hand mixer to beat in 1 egg until smooth. Repeat with the remaining eggs until all are incorporated, then stir in the cheese.

3 Using a 1-ounce scoop or medium spoon, portion 2-tablespoon-size scoops of batter onto the lined baking sheets, leaving at least 2 inches between each scoop. Quickly transfer the gougères to the oven and immediately lower the temperature to 375°F. Bake until firm and pale golden brown, 25–30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Originally published in Issue 30, November 1998

Roasted Mushrooms with Chile-Lemon Oi

SERVES 4 • Total: 45 min.

Skilled forager and cookbook author Tama Matsuoka Wong once brought us an insane mushroom haul, including many varieties I’d never seen before. (Google image “lion’s mane mushroom.”) The fungi are sponges for flavor, so I whipped up an infusion of herbs, garlic, chiles, and citrus to roast them in. It’s become my favorite side dish of all time!

Jake Cohen, test kitchen assistant, 2014–2015

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, smashed

1 medium shallot, peeled and halved

1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves, plus more, for garnish

2 medium Fresno chiles (1 halved lengthwise; 1 thinly sliced crosswise, for garnish)

Zest of 1 lemon, removed with a vegetable peeler

1¼ lb. mixed wild mushrooms, such as maitake, enoki, lion’s mane, and oyster (8 cups, trimmed)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Flaky sea salt, for serving

1 In a small pot over medium heat, add the olive oil, garlic, and shallot, and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat, then stir in the thyme, halved chile, and lemon zest. Set the oil aside to steep at room temperature for 15–20 minutes.

2 Preheat the oven to 450°F. Meanwhile, transfer the oil mixture to a blender, and blend until completely smooth. Set a fine mesh strainer over a large glass measuring cup and strain the oil, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon or silicone spatula to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard any solids.

3 In a large bowl, toss the mushrooms and the oil mixture to combine. Season with kosher salt and black pepper, then spread the mushrooms out on a large rimmed baking sheet. Transfer to the oven, and bake, stirring every 5 minutes, until the mushrooms are tender and golden brown, 18–20 minutes.

4 Transfer the mushrooms to a large platter, and garnish with additional thyme leaves and chile slices. Lightly sprinkle with flaky sea salt, and serve warm or at room temperature.

Originally published on Saveur.com, August 18, 2015

Carter Rochelle’s Real Texas Chili

SERVES 6 • Total: 4 hr. 30 min.

I hadn’t started working in the test kitchen yet when this recipe was published, but it’s still the only chili I make. I love it for its purity; there aren’t any tomatoes or beans — just tender chunks of meaty deliciousness. The addition of suet and a sprinkling of instant masa give this hearty Texas chili its distinctive flavor and make it a recipe worth making time and again.

Melissa Hamilton, test kitchen director, food editor, 1998–2005

6 oz. suet, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 lb. boneless chuck, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. chili powder

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup masa harina

4 cups low-sodium beef broth, warm

3 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

Cayenne pepper

Fresh cilantro or scallions, for garnish

Tabasco, for serving Saltines, for serving Sour cream, for serving

1 To a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, add the suet and melt, stirring frequently. When the fat has rendered, 8–9 minutes, remove and discard any suet solids that remain. Add the chuck (in batches, if necessary) and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned all over, 8–10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, and stir in the chili powder and garlic. Season lightly with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, add the masa harina and stir well to coat. Gradually stir in the broth, vinegar, and 4 cups water. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, partially covered, until the meat is tender and begins to break down into the sauce, stirring occasionally and adding additional water as needed if the chili seems dry or begins to stick to the bottom of the pot, about 4 hours.

2 Before serving, adjust the seasoning with additional salt, black pepper, and cayenne. To serve, ladle the chili into bowls, garnish with cilantro or scallions, and serve with Tabasco, saltines, and sour cream. Serve warm.

Originally published in Issue 22, November 1997

Martin Yan’s Scallion Pancakes

MAKES 6 • Total: 4 hr. 10 min.

I was asked who I wanted to invite to the office to do a story or video, and there was only one person: Martin Yan. I watched him after school as a kid and endlessly bugged my mom to make his outrageous Chinese dishes. Chef Yan came alone to the kitchen that day, with a bag of knives and his chef coat on a hanger. No press agent, no handler, no entourage. I loved him for being such a confident professional. He not only gave us this scallion pancake recipe that day, but also bestowed a cleaver on me.

Kellie Evans, test kitchen assistant, test kitchen director, associate food editor, 2010–2015

4 cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for rolling

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

⅓ cup canola oil, divided

2 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil, divided

1½ cups thinly sliced scallions, divided

1 tsp. crushed red chile flakes, divided

½ tsp. finely ground white pepper, divided Soy sauce, for serving

1 To a food processor, add 2 cups flour and the baking powder. Then, with the motor running, add ⅔ cup cold water; continue processing until a dough forms, about 40 seconds. Transfer the dough to a plate and set aside. Add the remaining flour and the salt to the food processor and, with the motor running, add ⅔ cup boiling water; continue processing until a shaggy dough forms, about 30 seconds. Return the reserved dough to the food processor and pulse until both doughs come together, about 35 seconds.

2 Lightly flour a clean work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Knead the dough until smooth and elastic, about 4 minutes. Grease a large bowl, transfer the dough to it, cover, and set aside at room temperature until it is pliable, and relaxed, about 2 hours.

3 Lightly flour a clean work surface and a rolling pin. Split the dough in half, and roll one half out to a 10-by-20-inch rectangle. Brush the rectangle with 1 tablespoon each canola and sesame oil. Sprinkle with half the scallions, half the chile flakes, and half the white pepper. Beginning with one long side, tightly roll the rectangle up like a jelly roll, stretching gently outward as you roll. Cut the roll crosswise into 3 even pieces. Slightly stretch one piece, and starting from one edge, coil it horizontally, tucking the outer end beneath it. Gently flatten the coil into a disk with your hand, then use the rolling pin to flatten the disk further into a 6-inch circle. Repeat with the remaining pieces and the second half of the dough and fillings. Cover the pancakes with a large sheet of plastic wrap and set aside for 10 minutes.

4 Place a large baking sheet in an oven preheated to 200°F.

5 To a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat, add 2 teaspoons canola oil. When the oil is hot, add 1 pancake to the skillet and cook, swirling the skillet and turning once, until golden and crisp, about 10 minutes. Use a wide spatula or tongs to transfer the pancake to the baking sheet in the oven. Repeat with the remaining oil and pancakes. When all the pancakes are cooked, remove from the oven and cut into wedges. Serve hot, with soy sauce for dipping.

Originally published on Saveur.com, October 8, 2014

Smoked Trout Hash

SERVES 2 • Total: 35 min.

I developed this recipe for the most fun issue I’ve ever been a part of: Saveur’s Breakfast Issue, which won a 2009 National Magazine Award. The dish is an ode to my grandparents in Asheville, North Carolina. My grandfather taught me to fish and smoke trout, and my grandmother would serve the results for breakfast.

Hunter Lewis, test Kitchen director, 2008–2010

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided

1 lb. boiled and cooled russet potatoes, cut in ½-in. cubes (2¼ cups)

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped (1½ cups)

¼ lb. boneless smoked trout, flaked into large chunks

¼ cup heavy cream

1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish

¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

1 medium garlic clove, finely chopped (1 tsp.)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 Tbsp. crème fraîche

2 tsp. prepared horseradish

Finely chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Lemon wedges, to serve

1 In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoonsof the butter overmedium-high heat. When thefoam begins to subside, add thepotatoes and cook, stirring occasionally,until lightly brownedall over, 8–10 minutes. Add theremaining butter and the onion,and continue cooking, stirringoccasionally, until the onion sotens,about 10 minutes more. Addthe trout, heavy cream, dill, cayenne,and garlic; stir to combine.Season to taste with salt andblack pepper. Continue cooking, using a spatula to turn the hash in large scoops and loosening any browned bits until the potatoes are browned and crispy in places, about 12 minutes.

2 Meanwhile, make the horseradish sauce: In a small bowl, stir together the crème fraîche and horseradish to combine.

3 To serve, divide the hash between 2 plates, top with dollops of the horseradish sauce, and sprinkle with chives and dill. Serve hot, with lemon wedges for squeezing.

Originally published in Issue 114, November/October 2008

Sri Lankan Fish Curry

SERVES 4 • Total: 45 min.

This punchy, deeply aromatic coconut curry introduced me to goraka, a dried tropical fruit that adds a unique sweet-sour depth. Though the dish is eaten for breakfast in Sri Lanka, I once made it the night before Thanksgiving, when I knew my family would want something dramatically different from roast bird and potatoes. Light and satisfying, it’s a recipe that can really save you from a cooking rut.

Stacy Adimando, test kitchen director, executive editor, editor-in-chief, 2016–2019

2 pieces goraka (4 oz.), also known as fish tamarind or Garcinia cambogia

4 green cardamom pods

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

One 1-in. piece fresh ginger, coarsely chopped

1 cinnamon stick

¼ cup coconut oil

1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. coriander seeds

2 inches pandan leaf, cut in 4 pieces (optional)

12 fresh curry leaves

2–3 small green chiles, such as Thai style, split lengthwise

2 stalks lemongrass, trimmed and sliced ¼-inch thick

2 medium shallots, peeled and thinly sliced (½ cup)

1 tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. chili powder

½ tsp. ground turmeric

1 medium plum tomato, cut into thin wedges

1½ lb. tuna or other lean, firm-fleshed fish, preferably skin on, cut into 2-in. chunks

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. ground cumin

¼ tsp. ground cinnamon

¼ tsp. ground clove

¼ tsp. ground nutmeg

½ cup coconut milk

1 Soak the goraka in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain and finely chop. Set aside.

2 Meanwhile, use a small food processor or mortar and pestle to grind together the cardamom, garlic, ginger, and cinnamon stick to make a chunky paste.

3 In a wok or large skillet, heat the coconut oil over medium-high heat until nearly smoking. Add the spice paste and coriander and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Working one at a time, stir in all of the following ingredients: pandan leaf pieces (if using), curry leaves, chiles, lemongrass, and shallots. Lower the heat to medium, then add the salt, chili powder, turmeric, tomato, and reserved goraka; bring to a simmer, then add the tuna, tossing gently to coat. Cover and cook for about 30 seconds, then stir in the black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and ¾ cup water; cook 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk and adjust the heat to simmer; cover and cook until the fish is cooked through, 4–5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed before serving.

Originally published in Issue 192, December/January 2018

Pork Riblets Simmered in Caramel Sauce (Xu’o’n Kho)

SERVES 6 • Total: 4 hr. 30 min.

After all these years, this recipe still sticks in my head. Making the sauce is almost like candy-making — the sugar cooks to the edge of burning. You can make extra, bottle it, and use it for other meats.

Julia Lee, test kitchen assistant, assistant editor, test kitchen director, 1999–2004

3 lb. baby back pork ribs, cut in half crosswise by a butcher and separated into riblets

½ small yellow onion, peeled and minced (¼ cup)

2 cups plus 2 tsp. sugar, divided

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

¼ cup Vietnamese fish sauce, divided

Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

Steamed jasmine rice, for serving

1 To a large bowl, add the pork, onion, 2 teaspoons sugar, the pepper, oil, and 2 tablespoons fish sauce. Toss to combine and coat the ribs. Marinate in the fridge for 2 hours.

2 Meanwhile, preheat a broiler to high and line a large rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Transfer the riblets to the baking sheet and broil, turning once, until the meat is charred in places, 15–20 minutes. Remove from the broiler and set aside.

3 Fill a large bowl with ice water and set it by the stove. In a large pot, stir together the remaining 2 cups sugar and ⅓ cup water. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat until the sugar dissolves, 4–5 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking until the sugar turns dark reddish-brown (370°F on a candy thermometer), 10–15 minutes. Remove from heat and immediately set the bottom of the pot in the ice water to stop the cooking. Add 1 cup cold water to the pot, return it to medium heat, and cook, stirring continuously, until the caramel has liquefied. Add the reserved riblets and any accumulated juices, as well as the remaining 2 tablespoons fish sauce, then bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pot, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, skimming and discarding the fat occasionally, until the pork is very tender, about 1 hour. Top with scallions, and serve with steamed jasmine rice.

Originally published in Issue 57, March 2002

Spinach and Ricotta Dumplings (Ravioli Nudi)

SERVES 4 • Total: 50 min.

Nudi are an unexpected surprise: stripped-down ravioli, hence “naked” in the title. The only tricky part to this simple recipe is using the least amount of flour needed to keep the dumplings intact as they cook.

Kelly Kochendorfer, assistant editor, test kitchen director, 1994–1997

Kosher salt

1 lb. fresh baby spinach

½ lb. whole-milk ricotta, drained

4 large egg yolks

1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more, for sprinkling

½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest

Cayenne pepper

Freshly grated nutmeg

Freshly ground black pepper

1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

¼ cup unsalted butter, melted

1 Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the spinach and cook until wilted and very tender but still bright green, 8–10 minutes. Drain the spinach discarding the cooking liquid, then transfer to a clean kitchen towel; squeeze to extract as much liquid as possible. (If there is too much moisture on the leaves, the ravioli will fall apart during cooking.) Finely chop the spinach and and set aside.

2 In a large bowl, stir together the ricotta, egg yolks, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and lemon zest. Add the reserved spinach and toss to combine, then season to taste with cayenne, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper. Add the flour and stir just until combined.

3 Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a simmer over medium heat. With wet hands or a 1-tablespoon scoop, shape the spinach mixture into 1-inch balls. Drop one ball into the simmering water and cook until it floats to the top; if it holds its shape, continue with the remaining mixture. If the ball falls apart, add additional flour to the mixture, 1–2 teaspoons at a time, until it holds together in the water. Cook the dumplings in batches. As they float to the top, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a large plate and tent with aluminum foil to keep them warm as you continue cooking the rest. To serve, drizzle with melted butter, top with additional Parmigiano-Reggiano, and serve warm.

Originally published in Issue 12, May/June 1996

Barbecued Shrimp

SERVES 4 • Total: 20 min.

Turns out, New Orleans–style barbecued shrimp never hits a grill! At first, I was concerned that Commander’s Palace had sent us a recipe riddled with typos, given its dizzying measurements of mismatched ingredients: fresh rosemary steeped in Crystal hot sauce, and 6 tablespoons of Worcestershire where I’d normally use a dash? But the sharp and buttery results fashioned a powerful memory, as the interns and I leaned over the counter, using warm bread to wick up every bit of sauce.

Liz Pearson, test kitchen assistant, test kitchen director, 2004–2008

16 jumbo shrimp (1 lb.), peeled and deveined (tails left on)

2 Tbsp. Creole or Cajun seasoning, preferably Tony Chachere’s

¼ cup canola oil

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary

½ cup light to medium lager, preferably Abita Amber

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. hot sauce, preferably Crystal brand

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

12 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Cooked grits or crusty French bread, for serving

1 To a medium bowl, add the shrimp and Creole seasoning, and toss well to coat. Set aside to marinate at room temperature.

2 Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the oil and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is fragrant and just beginning to color, about 1 minute. Add the rosemary and cook for a few seconds more before adding the shrimp. Cook, flipping once, until they begin to turn pink, about 30 seconds per side. Transfer to a large plate and set aside.

3 Return the skillet to medium heat, then add the lager, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and lemon juice. Cook, stirring and scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pan until the sauce has thickened enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon, 7–8 minutes. Turn off the heat and begin whisking in the butter a few pieces at a time (the sauce will thicken further as the butter is incorporated). Add the reserved shrimp to the skillet, toss to coat, and return to medium heat. Cook 2–3 minutes more, then transfer to a deep serving dish and serve with grits or chunks of crusty French bread for dipping.

Originally published in Issue 100, March 2007

Chicken Liver Pâté

MAKES 1? CUPS • Total: 30 min.

When I moved back to the US after working as a chef in New Zealand, I missed the creamy liver pâté I had fallen in love with there. I turned to my favorite food magazine’s website and found this recipe, along with a link to “Ask the Test Kitchen.” I quickly emailed the kitchen director, Kellie Evans. The recipe secured a place at all of my family holidays; I scored an internship and eventually a job at Saveur.

Farideh Sadeghin, test kitchen assistant, digital assistant, test kitchen director, 2012–2016

8 oz. chicken livers, cleaned

4 cups chicken stock

2 Tbsp. rendered chicken fat or unsalted butter

½ medium yellow onion, minced (1 cup)

1 Tbsp. plus 1. tsp. Cognac or other brandy

2 large, hard-boiled eggs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Toast points, for serving

1 To a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the livers and stock, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the livers are firm but still faintly pink at the center, 6–8 minutes.

2 Set a colander over a large bowl and strain the livers, reserving the cooking liquid. Transfer the livers to a food processor and set aside.

3 In a large skillet over high heat, melt the chicken fat or butter. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent and just beginning to brown, 6–8 minutes. Transfer the onions to the food processor, add ¼ cup of the reserved liver cooking liquid along with the Cognac and eggs and process until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, transfer to a jar, and chill until ready to serve, at least 4 hours or up to 3 days. Serve cold or at room temperature with toast points.

Originally published on Saveur.com, October 15, 2012

Canadian Butter Tarts

MAKES 28 TARTS • Total: 2 hr. 20 min.

I was 16 when this recipe was published, and it was among the first I snipped from a magazine and made for my family, who loved the sweet, intentionally runny results. That old Saveur page is probably still tucked in a box of old prom photos and concert tickets.

Kat Craddock, test kitchen assistant, test kitchen associate, test kitchen manager, test kitchen director, 2015–present

For the dough:

5½ cups all-purpose flour

1½ tsp. kosher salt

1 lb. vegetable shortening

1 large egg

1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

For the filling:

2 cups raisins

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces

2 cups brown sugar

½ cup maple syrup

¼ cup light corn syrup

4 large eggs

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1 Make the dough: In a large bowl, sift together the flour and salt. Using a pastry cutter or 2 knives, work the vegetable shortening into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal; set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg, vinegar, and 1 cup cold water, then drizzle the liquids into the flour mixture while stirring with a fork just until a shaggy dough begins to form. Lightly flour a clean work surface, then turn the dough out onto it. Give the dough several quick kneads to smooth, then shape into a 1-inch-thick disk. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.

2 Meanwhile, make the filling: To a medium pot, add the raisins and enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then drain, discarding the cooking liquid. Transfer the raisins to a medium bowl, then add the butter, brown sugar, maple syrup, and corn syrup; stir until the butter melts and the mixture is combined. Set aside to cool slightly, 3–4 minutes. In a small bowl, beat 1 egg well, then fold it into the raisin mixture; repeat with remaining 3 eggs. Stir in the vanilla and set the filling aside at room temperature. (The raisins will sink to the bottom and need to be stirred up again when you fill the tarts.)

3 Preheat the oven to 425°F. Meanwhile, retrieve the dough from the fridge and unwrap. Lightly flour a clean work surface and a rolling pin, then roll out the dough to an even ¼-inch-thick sheet. Using a 4-inch round cookie cutter, cut 28 circles from the dough, gathering the scraps into a ball and rerolling as needed. Press the rounds into standard-size muff in tins, then fill each with 2 tablespoons of filling. Bake until the crusts are lightly golden and the filling is crackly and dry on the surface and barely set, 12–15 minutes. Cool the tarts completely, then use a thin, off set spatula or butter knife to lift them carefully from the tins. Serve at room temperature.

Originally published in Issue 41, March 2000

Leaf and Spear

MAKES 4 COCKTAILS • Total: 20 min.

I keep coming back tothis vibrant rum drinkwhenever I’m faced withhosting brunch or a bridalshower. It’s fresh andbright with lime juice,and spicy-sweet from ajalapeño-infused syrup,all grounded by the earthinessof Tuscan kale.

Judy Haubert, test kitchen assistant, associate test kitchen director, associate food editor, food and prop stylist, 2008–2015

For the green harissa syrup:

1 cup sugar

2 cups packed fresh cilantro leaves

½ cup packed fresh Italian parsley leaves

1 medium jalapeño, stemmed and seeded

½ tsp. caraway seeds

½ tsp. cumin seeds

For the kale-infused rum:

1 cup white rum

2 large Tuscan black kale leaves, plus 4 small leaves, for garnish

½ cup fresh lime juice

1 Make the green harissa syrup: To a small pot, add the sugar and ⅔ cup cold water, and bring to a boil over medium high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat, cool slightly, then transfer the syrup to a blender. Add the cilantro, parsley, jalapeno, caraway, and cumin, and blend until completely smooth. Set a fine mesh strainer over a medium bowl, then strain the mixture, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon or silicone spatula to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

2 Make the kale-infused rum: Rinse out the blender and strainer, and set the strainer over a medium jar. To the blender, add the rum and 2 large kale leaves. Puree until smooth, then strain the liquid, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon or silicone spatula to extract as much liquid as possible; cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

3 Make each cocktail: Fill a collins glass and a cocktail shaker with ice. In the shaker, combine 2 ounces (. cup) of the kale-infused rum, 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) lime juice, and ¾ ounce (1 tablespoon plus 1. teaspoons) harissa syrup. Shake vigorously, then strain into the glass and garnish with a small kale leaf. Serve immediately and repeat with the remaining cocktail ingredients.

Originally published in Issue 173, April 2015

FOOD STYLING: EUGENE JHO; PROP STYLING: CARLA GONZALEZ-HART ■