The Three Pieces of Gear Every Beginning Climber Needs
By: Mary Andino
Tags: Outdoors, Climbing, Rock Climbing, Gear

The Three Pieces of Gear Every Beginning Climber Needs

The first few times I went rock climbing, I rented my gear from the gym. I didn’t want to commit to buying expensive gear until I knew I really wanted to pursue this hobby. About a month in, once I knew I was hooked on the sport, I started researching the best shoes and other items to buy. The climbing marketplace is huge, and can be very confusing; what type of shoe is best for a beginner? What kind of belay device should I buy? The price of many of these items was also intimidating; shoes can run from eighty dollars and up, and a basic harness will cost at least fifty bucks. I wanted to be sure that I made purchases of high-quality goods that would be durable and functional. After a great deal of research and trial and error, I discovered a few items that I now swear by. There are hundreds of different climbing products out there, but beginners only really need these three.

#1- Climbing Shoe

Climbing shoes are the one product any beginning climber needs, whether they boulder, top rope, or lead climb. Shoes come in three different grades: neutral, moderate, and aggressive, based on how flat or curved the shoe is. An aggressive shoe will have a much more pronounced arch from heal to toe, to help advanced climbers with more complex moves. A beginning climber’s best bet is a neutral shoe that is comfortable and will last until they are ready to move on to a more aggressive shoe. The Scarpa Origin is one of the best beginner’s climbing shoes on the market.

I can wear the Scarpa Origins for a two hour bouldering session without needing to take them off. The fit is tight enough that the climber’s foot does not move around, but not so tight that it constricts movement or blood flow. The break in time for these shoes is relatively short; within a trips to the gym, they soften up and have enough give.

This heel system, according to Scarpa, “helps both spread the force of the heel tension, which also helps with over-compression of the toe box, and increases the fit of the heel.” The PAF comes in three different tension levels; the Origin offers the highest level, called “strong tension.” This system also decreases the amount of stress put on the Achilles tendon. For a beginning climber attempting to learn heel hooks, this system ensures a snug heel fit and works to reduce the chance of injury.

I’ve owned these shoes for almost a year, and they have endured all the scrapes, smears, and falls that I’ve put them through. The shoe is nothing special or fancy, but is a comfortable, durable climbing shoe great for those new to climbing.

#2- Harness, Belay Device, and Carabiner

I initially started my climbing journey by only bouldering, meaning I climbed routes that were no more than twenty feet off the ground, without any belaying. Then, at the insistence of a friend, I started top rope climbing, the classic belay, high wall climbing. For this discipline, I needed a harness, belay device, and a locking carabiner. There is no better deal on the market for the these items than the Black Diamond Momentum Harness Package. For $100, the buyer gets a harness, ATC belay device, and locking carabiner, along with a chalk bag and some chalk. At REI, if purchased separately, these items would total at least $130. There are much more expensive and complex belay devices available, but for a beginner, the ATC is straightforward to learn and easy to use. The Momentum Harness itself is quite comfortable; there is adequate padding on the waist and the material is breathable in warm conditions.

#3- Tape

When I started climbing, the worst part was the damage to my hands. Not to be graphic, but entire quarter size pieces of skin often ripped off. It took quite a lot of blood and pain to develop enough callouses to toughen up my skin. I tried every type of fix I could think of to cover these wounds: band-aids, athletic tape, gauze. A few weeks in, I discovered my holy grail: Metolius Climbing Tape. It might seem silly to buy special climbing tape; wouldn’t any old athletic tape from a CVS do the job? The short answer: no. This tape has zinc oxide adhesive to keep it in place. If I nick my finger on a hold and use this tape, no amount of chalk, sweat, or climbing will displace it. I use the tape during climbing to cover and protect any open skin; it cushions the wound enough to allow me to keep climbing. After my session, I clean the wound and put on Neosporin and this tape, in order to let it heal. The tape is also handy as a cover-all for any other scrapes or cuts. If I graze my shin on a gritty hold, this tape does a great job of sticking, covering the wound, and ensuring that none of my blood gets on the wall or anyone else. I bought a roll of this four dollar tape months ago, and I’m only about half way through. Cost effective, high quality, and long lasting: what more could you want out of climbing tape?

One of the best parts of climbing is that anyone can do it; all you need is an open mind and a desire. The world of climbing gear can seem like a labyrinth, but this should not keep anyone from experiencing the joys of the sport. These three items are all one needs to leave the world of rental gear behind. I hope that sharing these comfortable, durable basics set all the beginning climbers out there on a path to success.