How to Care for Succulents
By: Delaney Ramirez
Tags: Succulents, Light, Houseplants, Outdoor Plants, Watering

Succulents are easy to find, relatively cheap compared to other houseplants and look extremely unique — sometimes even strange. But for those who are new to succulents, caring for these plants can be tricky as succulents will typically not do well with the same lighting and watering conditions that work for other plants. Knowing some basics about these colorful plants is key to making their care simple and rewarding.

Succulent species come in a range of colors and growth patterns.

Light

Most succulents prefer higher light conditions than other plants. Bright, unobstructed sunlight through a window can work well for many succulents. Window light, even when direct, is less intense than full outdoor sun, protecting plants from sunburn. In the northern hemisphere, east-facing windows (which provide morning light) and south facing windows (which give plants more direct sun throughout the day) are good growing areas for succulents. The plants should be close to the window to get the most sun.

My indoor succulents sit in a southeastern window and receive bright light (notice the morning sun shining in).

Some succulents, such as haworthias, are similar to most other types of houseplants in that they grow best in bright indirect light. Young succulents, including new propagations, prefer this type of lighting as well. Once a propagated succulent’s roots have become established, the plant can slowly be transitioned to a brighter spot.

While growing indoors, the greatest concern for the majority of succulents is too little light. Many succulent species need at least four to six hours of bright light. If a succulent begins to stretch out or lose its pink, blue or dark green color, it is begging for more light! In addition to etiolation, too little light will cause the succulent to use less water, which can cause root rot and kill the plant.

This kalanchoe was growing in low light before I got it, which caused the long, bare stems. It has started to grow more compactly since moving into brighter light.

Succulents can also be grown outside, though only a few, like aeoniums and some cacti, can handle the full brunt of direct outdoor sunlight. Before placing a succulent in full sun, the plant needs to adjust to the higher light. Move the plant to an outdoor space with bright shade for at least a week, then begin letting the succulent get direct sun in the mornings. After another week or so, try moving the plant to a full-sun spot. Watch carefully for sunburns, which look like brown or black patches, and move the plant back into a shadier area if sunburn appears.

Some succulent species can grow in full outdoor sun, but they need to adjust to the light first.

A succulent in an ideal lighting environment will have compact growth. Some species may even ‘blush’ or become sun-stressed, with pink or reddish colors appearing on the leaves. Though sun stress might sound dangerous for plants, it is normal for some succulent species to turn reddish; it is only an issue if the plants begins to sunburn.

Watering

Succulents store water in either their thick leaves, stems or roots, which means they don’t need to be watered as often as other types of plants. But there is a common misconception that succulents don’t need much water when watering time comes. On the contrary, succulents are similar to all other plants in that they need a thorough watering when they are thirsty — in general, overwatering is not a matter of giving a plant too much water at once, but rather of giving a plant water too often.

Signs of a thirsty succulent are dry soil and leaves that feel softer than usual or have wrinkles. To water a succulent, pour water into all sides of the pot, drenching the soil completely. Afterwards, let the plant drain any excess water into a tray, sink or bathtub. Be sure to dump any drained water sitting in a tray to let the plant’s roots breathe.

When succulents need water, their leaves may become soft and wrinkled. After a deep watering, these plants will perk back up.

Soil

Succulent soil should be very well-draining, even more so than for common houseplants like philodendrons. Bagged cactus soil amended with sand and a significant amount of perlite is an effective mix for succulent growth.

Look out for soil problems like fungus, lack of drainage and slow-drying soil. These symptoms are indications that a succulent needs to be repotted with a new soil mix.

Succulent soil should be very well-draining, with sand and quite a bit of perlite mixed into the soil.

Propagation

Succulents are known to be easy to propagate. One of the simplest ways to propagate these plants is by leaf cuttings. Succulents will often drop a leaf that begins to grow roots and becomes its own plant, propagating all on its own. While its great to have the plant do all the work, growers can do leaf propagations as well. Pull a healthy leaf off of the mother plant or use a leaf that has fallen and sprouted roots but hasn’t grown into the soil yet. For freshly removed leaves, set them on a paper towel in partial shade for a few days until a callus forms at the base of the leaf. Then place the leaf on soil and mist the plant, keeping the soil most until the roots establish themselves into the soil.

Succulent leaf propagations sprout roots and new leaves after callusing over.

Another method is to cut the stem of the plant. This method can correct etiolation — if a succulent has stretched out, the bare stem can be cut to allow the growing tip of the plant to return to compact and full-looking growth. The propagation will become a new plant, and the old stem and its root system may even begin to produce new growth as well. To propagate from stem cuttings, first cut the stem an inch or two below relatively healthy leaves. Let the newly cut portion of the succulent callus over for a week in partial shade, then plant the stem cutting into a small pot, letting the soil come up to the bottom leaves. Allow the potted plant to grow roots in the partially shaded area. After about a month, gently tug on the plant to see if it is loose or secure in the soil. If the plant feels anchored in the soil, it is ready to gradually move into brighter light and be watered as normal.

I was given this etiolated echeveria, which had a long, flopped-over stem. I propagated the top of the plant and now have a new, healthier succulent.

Some types of succulents will also produce offshoots, or buds. These buds can be separated from the mother plant and propagated. When the bud grows to be about two inches around, cut it away from the main plant, making sure to include any roots the offshoot might have grown along with a bit of the stem. If the offshoot didn’t have roots, let it callus as described above. Once it has callused, stick the offshoot into soil. Wait for the plants to grow roots in partial shade, then begin to water as normal.

Offshoots can be separated from the main plant and propagated.

Fertilizer

Fertilizing can induce faster and stronger growth in succulents. Choose a succulent-specific fertilizer if possible, or look for a fertilizer with balanced levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

For flowering succulents, like the Christmas cactus (schlumbergera cacti), a fertilizer with higher levels of phosphorus and potassium can support healthy blooms.

Fertilizing with higher amounts of P and K can help succulents like the Christmas cactus bloom beautifully.

Fertilizer should be diluted before application to protect the roots from fertilizer burn. Give a succulent fertilizer only when it is growing in an adequately-lit spot to get the best results. Succulents that receive fertilizer while sitting in a darker area will indeed grow faster than before, but the growth will be thin, weak and etiolated.

Some growers fertilize their succulents once a month when the plants are in active growth, while others fertilizer once a season and still others choose to only fertilize once a year in the spring. When succulents are dormant, hold off on fertilizing.