Apple Inc. to Apple Fritter: Phing Yamamoto of Oakland’s Colonial Donuts
By: Debbie Kim
Tags: Donuts, Food, Entrepreneurship, Gentrification, Oakland

Can you imagine quitting a prestigious job at a Silicon Valley tech giant to make and serve donuts? That’s exactly what Phing Yamamoto did back in 2017 when she left her job at Apple to return to run her family’s shop, Colonial Donuts. Located near Lake Merritt on Lakeshore Avenue, Colonial Donuts has become an Oakland institution since its founding in 1969, and is one of the few 24/7 shops in the area. Showcased in the recent Berkeleyside profile of Pink Box Stories, the shop prides itself in perfecting its classic donuts — recipes that haven’t changed since 1989. As you walk in, the smell of fresh donuts and coffee permeates the air, with donuts lined up in the glass case and rows of winning lotto tickets on the wall.

Phing Yamamoto, Store Manager of Colonial Donuts (Credit: Debbie Kim)

Yamamoto’s move may come as a surprise for many — not only because of the glamour associated with a job at Apple, but also because of the escalating tension as tech giants leave their footprint on affordable housing and small businesses, especially in cities such as Oakland. In the eyes of many, tech has been an adversary to small businesses. Gentrification has become rampant, in part because of all the new tech companies cropping up in the Bay Area, and with gentrification comes increased demand for housing, which has exacerbated issues of rent and homelessness.

“As with any business owner, we are constantly dealing with rising business costs, food costs, staffing issues (people moving out of the Bay Area due to costs of living) and so we have felt the effects of gentrification within our business,” Yamamoto remarked. Having been both an Apple employee and a small business owner, Yamamoto added, “I think I’m in a unique situation where I can see both sides. Coming from the tech industry has shown me the value of innovation and with that mindset and wanting to move forward comes change.”

Yamamoto is an active member of the Lakeshore Association, where homelessness and community health are central topics. “I’m not resentful of tech. We need tech and innovation which results in more people coming to Oakland. But we need to find a natural balance. I just want to see my community thrive.”

Though her transition from the tech world to small business proved difficult at times, Yamamoto explains, “I am excited for the future of Colonial Donuts and to be in a new phase in my life.” “Although a new phase of her life, it is one that is rooted in her beginnings. Yamamoto explained how growing up a donut kid, not only helped her gain familiarity with business early on, but also gave her a work ethic as she watched her parents, Phey Yam and Ching Ung, support their business.

Colonial Donuts Storefront (Credit: Debbie Kim)

Yamamoto’s parents took over Colonial Donuts from its original owner Richard Seymour in 1989. Fleeing the Khmer Rouge genocide in Cambodia, they first landed in Seattle before settling in Oakland. Seymour sold five of his donut shops to Yam and Ung. They kept two shops and sold the other three to other Cambodian families, a story with a similar ring to that of Ted Ngoy, the Donut King. By selling them these donut shops, Ngoy and Yamamoto’s parents gave opportunities to other Cambodian families to start fresh in California. Having experienced this shared trauma of being a refugee, Yamamoto reflects, she sees how her parents gave back to their community by supporting Cambodian refugees.

For many 9-year-olds, getting up early and skipping Saturday morning cartoons in order to open a business would be a nightmare, but for Yamamoto, it was anything but. “When I was younger, I couldn’t wait to get out there and work and converse with customers,’’ she says, “I love chatting with customers and getting to know our regulars, some who have seen me grow up for the past 25 years.” She even found herself developing an entrepreneurial spirit: “I loved working and getting the tips. I either saved them or waited to save enough to spend on what I wanted to buy.”

That financial savviness stayed with her as she matured, and today the financial success of her family’s business allows her to hone her culinary skills and creativity. Yamamoto has been experimenting in creating new donuts though she is proud that her shop has perfected the classics. “What makes us unique is that we maintain quality classic donuts, but we introduce new flavors from time to time.” A customer classic favorite is their French cruller, made with a family recipe that hasn’t changed since her parents took over the shop. Using Instagram and Facebook as a tool to introduce and publicize new donuts, Yamamoto has been able to bring her parents’ donut shop into mainstream media. “Social media has played a role in our popularity, especially with our new product offerings over the past few years. I love hearing that customers are coming to the shop because they saw my post of us celebrating a long-time customer of ours who was turning 100 years old.” She uses social media to introduce innovative spins on Colonial Donuts’ classics, like the popular seasonal pumpkin spice cake donut during the fall, and the red velvet with cream cheese frosting. She’s even gotten the approval of her parents when it comes to social media. She jokes, “When my parents are telling me to post online, that gives me validation that something is working!”

Customer classic favorite: French Cruller (Credit: Phing Yamamoto)

She jokes, “When my parents are telling me to post online, that gives me validation that something is working!”

However, growing up as a donut kid in a 24/7 donut shop wasn’t always easy. Vacations and holidays were never a part of her and her family’s routine. “So many people depend on us to be open,’’ she states, “Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s, we’re open!” Their business schedule also meant her parents couldn’t always be present when she was younger. “I did miss out on weekend sports or having my parents attend any of my games, but it’s because they were busy with the business and building it to what it is today,” she said. As a parent of three young children now, she reflects, “Seeing how delighted my children are when I attend their sports games does make me feel nostalgic.” However, she knows that she wouldn’t be able to experience these moments with her kids if it weren’t for her parents’ hard work and dedication.

She credits her move to Apple, working in pricing, to her experiences as a donut kid. “Whether it was interacting with different staff personalities, learning customer service, or knowing how to prioritize tasks, my donut kid experiences played an integral role in landing summer internships to eventually working full-time at Apple Inc. after graduating from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.” However, the 12-hour days at Apple and the grueling back and forth from Oakland to Cupertino began to take a toll. Paired with her desire to “live a more balanced and passion-filled life” ultimately led Yamamoto to make the transition back to her donut kid roots in 2017. The move triggered the question often posed by family, friends, and customers: “Did you really leave Apple for donuts?”

The move triggered the question often posed by family, friends, and customers: “Did you really leave Apple for donuts?”

Yamamoto laughs when asked whether she is happy with her decision to carry on her parent’s business. “I’ve never looked back,” she says. “It’s a testament to my parent’s work. They spent 35 years building this business and truly are the model of the American Dream.” When thinking about where Colonial Donuts is going in the future, she says, “My parents have kept their dream alive for the past 35 years and I hope to keep Colonial Donuts a staple in Oakland for many generations to come. I think they are proud that I want to continue what they built and I’m excited to take it to the next level.”