Date: 202106
Local time of day: 1201-1800
Location: ZZZZ1.ARTCC, US
Flight conditions: Mixed
Weather elements / visibility: Rain; Thunderstorm
Light: Daylight
Aircraft: B737 Undifferentiated or Other Model
Operator: Air Carrier
Flight plan: IFR
Mission: Passenger
Flight phase: Descent
ATC / advisory: TRACON ZZZZ
Reporter organization: Air Carrier
Reporter function: Pilot Flying; Captain
Reporter qualification: Flight Crew Multiengine; Flight Crew Air Transport Pilot (ATP); Flight Crew Instrument
Human factors: Communication Breakdown; Workload
Anomaly: Deviation - Track / Heading All Types; Deviation / Discrepancy - Procedural Clearance; Deviation / Discrepancy - Procedural Published Material / Policy; Inflight Event / Encounter Weather / Turbulence; Inflight Event / Encounter Fuel Issue
Detector: Person Flight Crew; Person Air Traffic Control
When detected: In-flight
Result: Air Traffic Control Provided Assistance; Flight Crew Requested ATC Assistance / Clarification; Flight Crew Diverted
Contributing factors: Procedure; Weather; Human Factors
Primary problem: Weather

Narrative: Starting with the descent into ZZZZ we were cleared the arrival and a descent to FL190 with thunderstorms and lightning on both sides of the route. Turbulence was light to moderate with intermittent rain and ice pellets. We were instructed that an airplane had gone around on the RNP Runway XX for lack of visibility although we could not get any exact information on what the conditions at the field were. ATIS was not operating for the station and we were relying on Approach Control to pass us that information. METAR through ACARS showed that the conditions at the field were OK with a few low clouds but high ceilings and almost no wind. Further complicating matters was the fact that enroute we received a message from Dispatch that the ILS for Runway XX was unserviceable thus forcing us into the RNP Approach with higher minimums and higher visibility requirements. Shortly after being told by Approach that an aircraft had gone around at ZZZZ we were instructed to hold at ZZZZZ as published at FL190. This hold was in airspace that was mostly clear from severe weather but with thunderstorms mostly to the north and east in close proximity to the hold. At this time we calculated a Bingo fuel to our filed alternate of ZZZZ1 which was 95 miles away. Fuel upon entering the hold was 10;200 and we calculated a BINGO for ZZZZ1 of 8;100 lbs. which would get us from a missed approach to ZZZZ1 with about 6;000 lbs. remaining. Requesting the METAR through ACARS showed the weather at ZZZZ1 was VMC. With little knowledge of the actual field conditions at ZZZZ other than that visibility may have been poor we elected to commence the arrival and attempt the RNP for Runway XX. Approach was still reporting that the conditions on the field were good but that an airplane had gone around about a half hour ago. We were then cleared a descent in the hold and then cleared for the approach. This was only after making many radio calls to ZZZZ Control to determine what their plan was for us. Other than being told to hold they provided no EFC (expect further clearance) time and we were given no options. We informed Approach that if we needed to execute the missed approach we would then need to proceed directly to our filed alternate; ZZZZ1. It was at this time we were informed that this was not possible and that ZZZZ1 was not accepting any more aircraft. I instructed the FO to contact Dispatch for clarification. Dispatch informed us that ZZZZ1 was in fact accepting aircraft but that the nearest alternate beside ZZZZ1 was ZZZZ2; which was over 300 miles away. During the approach ATC told several other aircraft requesting a diversion to ZZZZ1 including 2 other [Company] aircraft and a [Airline] heavy that they were not accepting aircraft. After Approach switched us to ZZZZ Tower they informed us that there was 'no visibility'. They also told us that they 'cannot see the runway from the Tower' but they had the lights full up. We flew the approach to minimums and I did not see the runway and started the published missed approach. The FO said he saw the runway just after we started the missed approach. During the missed approach we once again asked for vectors to ZZZZ1. This was a very high workload environment at night; in the weather with terrain and still burning fuel. Approach told us that ZZZZ1 was not accepting aircraft. He repeatedly told others the same thing. At this time we were looking for further options but in my mind we could not afford to hold and did not have the fuel to go to ZZZZ2. Exacerbating this problem was the fact that my years old iPad; although sufficiently charged was at times very slow to respond to my inputs. Several times I had to look across the flight deck at my FOs iPad to confirm information. After telling Approach that we needed to divert to our filed alternate they would again insist we couldn't go there then started talking to other aircraft. At this time I instructed the PM to tell approach that we were proceeding to ZZZZ1;that we were minimum fuel; and we put that at the top of the LEGS page and began heading that way at 10;000 ft. Approach was still being unhelpful and he was saturated with other aircraft and radio calls. I instructed the PM to remain on ZZZZ Control frequency and selected ZZZZ1 Approach on VHF2. After contacting them and relaying our position and intentions they said they would make room for us and to proceed direct the field. I told them we were still in contact with ZZZZ control and that we would be back with them shortly. Switching my attention back to the flight deck the PM had set up the FMC for ZZZZ1 and I sent the Diversion message to Dispatch and informed the Flight Attendants and passengers that we were proceeding to ZZZZ1. While proceeding direct to ZZZZ1 I used Captains Authority to deviate west and south for more thunderstorms between ZZZZ and ZZZZ1 as ZZZZ still wasn't responding to queries in a timely manner. The PM informed me that he could not get a word in edgewise with ZZZZ Control but they had reluctantly cleared us to ZZZZ1 at 12;000 ft. I instructed him to switch frequencies to ZZZZ1 Approach since we could not get ZZZZ to respond or give much helpful information at all. After the weather deviation ZZZZ1 approach was very helpful and accommodating and cleared us for the VOR DME Runway XX at ZZZZ1. The approach and landing were uneventful. After landing we held on a taxiway for about an hour waiting for a gate. There were at least 4 other diversions there in similar situations. At this time I called Dispatch and told them what had happened and we decided that we would attempt to refuel with a ZZZZ2 alternate and go to ZZZZ. There was no response with ZZZZ1 Operations so coordination was done with Ground and Operations personnel there. They were very helpful. The Flight Attendants also informed us that several passengers were asking if they could disembark at ZZZZ1. After seeing the situation I said that this was not possible.... we didn't even have a gate or jetway driver let alone Customs personnel or ground handlers to retrieve bags. After coordinating the short flight back to ZZZZ we departed and landed relatively uneventfully at ZZZZ a little over 3 hours late. The only issue upon arrival was that although METAR said that conditions at ZZZZ were CAVOK upon switching to Tower we were once again informed that visibility was poor and that they could not see the runway from the Tower. ATIS was still not updated or even operating. We saw the runway at about 800 ft. AFE. There was significant low level fog but the approach was safe and uneventful. Taxi in and shutdown was also uneventful. A few things to note here: The ILS being unserviceable significantly impacted our ability to land in poor visibility. ATIS was not operating and Approach and Tower were passing conflicting; ambiguous field conditions. There was a significant problem in understanding what the conditions on the field actually were as METAR said one thing while Approach said another and then Tower advised there was 'no visibility' with no concrete data on what the visibility really was. The runway has no centerline lights; no distance remaining markers; and no grooves even though it was wet. ZZZZ Control was far less than helpful in all regards. We had to 'push the rope' to get any kind of clearance. They didn't even provide an EFC (Expect Further Clearance) time in the hold. They appeared task saturated which is completely understandable. However; his insistence that nobody could go to our legally filed alternate led to a lot of confusion. Ultimately we had to just be forceful and tell them that's where we were going. They provided us a clearance there but no handoff. We felt like we basically had to affect our own rescue. Flying around in bad weather; at night; in terrain; with a developing fuel situation with little help from ATC was task saturating. The PM (the FO); although with low time and on probation; was excellent and we could not have accomplished the mission without him.




Synopsis: B737 Captain reported communication difficulties exacerbated conditions during bad weather causing a diversion to refuel and later arrive safely at original destination airport.