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2018-07-01T02:09:53.910

|support-structures|stl|algorithm|

<p>How can I detect if a generated STL model will need to be printed with supports?</p> <p>Context: I have a pipeline which parametrically generates OpenSCAD models, generates the STL, and sends them to the printer. I would like to (a) automatically detect the cases where supports are necessary so that I can specify the appropriate flags to the slicer, and (b) attempt to rotate the generated model so that supports won't be necessary.</p>

6266

How can I tell if an STL model will need supports?

<p>You could try to:</p> <ol> <li><p>Slice with slicer (Cura in my case) with support enabled.</p></li> <li><p>Search for text: <em>TYPE:SUPPORT</em></p> <p>G0 F1800 X237.873 Y184.24<br> G0 X233.869 Y183.237<br> ;TYPE:SUPPORT<br> G1 F1500 E562.81355<br> G1 F900 X233.579 Y183.939 E562.91577<br> G1 X233.368 Y184.67 E563.01816<br></p></li> <li><p>If it exists, then try to call it again:</p></li> <li>Use auto-orientation plugin to validate if there is a better (no support) model position.</li> </ol> <p>As an alternative, you could scan the mesh and looks for an angle greater than 45 or 50 degrees.</p>

2018-07-01T02:19:17.693

|slicing|slic3r|

<p>When generating STL files with slic3r I would like to automatically prefix the filename with strings such as PLA or PET before uploading to my printer. How can I specify this in the filament settings?</p>

6267

Slic3r: How can I automatically modify the STL filename?

<p>The filename is under the "Print settings" tab. Under output options, you can change the name template. You can use words like: [layer_height] to make the name dynamic.</p> <p>The variable you are looking for here is: [filament_preset] But the full name, with space and everything, is used.</p> <p>Here is a screenshot: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWVts.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWVts.png" alt="output options"></a></p> <p>Here is a link to fuller docs: <a href="https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ#how-can-i-specify-a-custom-filename-format-for-output-g-code-files" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/slic3r/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ#how-can-i-specify-a-custom-filename-format-for-output-g-code-files</a></p> <h1>New version of Slic3r</h1> <p>It lets you edit the filename when upload it. You will see what will be upload it and give it any name. But this is a manual process. Just updated my answer for the sake of completeness.</p>

2018-07-01T20:19:23.797

|filament|filled-pla|

<p>I recently had a series of issues with my prusa MK3 that kicked off when I tried to print with Proto-pasta's glitter filament using a 0.4 mm nozzle. The glitter clogged up and cleaning it out was pretty difficult.</p> <p>A different user here pointed out that 0.4 mm was too small for glitter filament. When I initially read (and, after the clogging fiasco, re-read) the Proto-pasta website I didn't find any information suggesting that a larger nozzle borehole diameter was necessary.</p> <p>I have the glitter and metalic green filaments. Do I need a nozzle with a larger diameter to print these or not? I emailed Proto-pasta about it the other day but have yet to hear back.</p> <h1>Update</h1> <p>Here's the reply I got from proto-pasta on these questions:</p> <blockquote> <p>Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine. Anyways, on to your questions:</p> <ul> <li><p>Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter? A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.</p> </li> <li><p>If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6? While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.</p> </li> <li><p>Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole? Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.</p> </li> <li><p>I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle? The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.</p> </li> </ul> </blockquote>

6269

What nozzle size should I use for filament containing glitter?

<p>Fact is that you encounter clogs with this filament, so trying a larger diameter nozzle is an option to solve this. Nozzles are very cheaply found in various sizes, so buy a few and experiment. Commonly found larger nozzle sizes are 0.5, 0.6 and 0.8 mm nozzles, even larger nozzles exist, like e.g. 1.0 mm or even larger, but keep in mind that the hot end needs to keep up heating of the extruded filament, so deposition speed may need to be reduced for larger nozzle diameters.</p> <p>Alternatively, you could fight clogs the usual way by playing with temperature, layer height, retract settings, oiling filament, purging nozzle from previous filament or cooked up residue, <a href="https://www.google.nl/amp/s/amp.rigid.ink/blogs/news/clogged-extruder-nozzle-what-causes-it-how-to-avoid-it-and-how-to-fix-it" rel="nofollow noreferrer">etc</a>, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/214/how-do-i-keep-my-extruder-head-from-getting-clogged">etc</a>.</p> <p>Quoting someone's <a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?178,416576" rel="nofollow noreferrer">experience</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>As far as differences, here has been my experience:</p> <ul> <li>0.5 mm low back pressure (High speed), and very hard to clog,</li> <li>0.4 mm medium back pressure, rarely clogs,</li> <li>0.35 mm high back pressure and very easy to clog.</li> </ul> </blockquote> <hr> <p><strong>Edit</strong>: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6183/issues-with-proto-pasta-filament-extruding-on-prusa-mk3">According to Proto-pasta</a>, concerning filament with glitter, a 0.4 mm nozzle should not be a problem as the glitter particles are smaller, the print layer thickness definitely can be a problem. However, they state that a larger diameter nozzle will result in more sparkle as the glitter is not laid too flat.</p>

2018-07-03T19:32:30.193

|marlin|bed-leveling|

<p>My G29 command reports</p> <pre><code>+0.178 +0.281 +0.830 -0.614 -0.012 +0.371 -1.208 -0.849 -0.351 </code></pre> <p>So should I tighten up the screw of the bed, close to 0,0 position or loosen it?</p> <p>I have a feeling that when I loosen it, it gets away from zero and I expect the opposite to happen.</p> <p>For bed leveling i use a capacitive probe and after playing around with the screws here is the result</p> <pre><code>+0.406 +0.127 +0.411 -0.161 -0.007 -0.041 -0.572 -0.652 -0.668 </code></pre> <p>Finally the leveling process was found <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> But the question remains. The value <code>-0.572</code> corresponds close to <code>0,0</code> ?</p>

6277

BiLinear bed leveling

<p>An additional suggestion: after levelling with sensors or mechanically as in Oscar's great answer, verify both the level and the Z-zero by printing a single-layer pattern such as a few concentric squares or circles. Inspect to verify that no location is too high (material fails to extrude) or too low (material doesn't adhere, or appears much thicker than elsewhere). </p> <p>By doing this you can avoid setting up a multi-hour print only to discover a 'bad corner' or some such. </p>

2018-07-04T16:54:07.093

|troubleshooting|

<p>I just received an old 3D printer from one of my school teachers. I have no idea whatsoever as to which brand it is, no instruction manual attached to it, or any other info about it. </p> <p>How can I find some information about it? </p> <p>Some links would be very useful. Remember when giving advice that I know nothing about 3D printers. </p> <p>This is the printer:</p> <p><em>Backside</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC3mb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Printer as seen from the back"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC3mb.jpg" alt="Printer as seen from the back" title="Printer as seen from the back"></a></p> <p><em>Front</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmDtw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Printer as seen from the front"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmDtw.jpg" alt="Printer as seen from the front" title="Printer as seen from the front"></a></p> <p><em>The X-axis stepper</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXuiX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="The X-axis stepper"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXuiX.jpg" alt="The X-axis stepper" title="The X-axis stepper"></a></p> <p><em>The electronics board</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTJwl.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="The electronics board"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTJwl.jpg" alt="The electronics board" title="The electronics board"></a></p>

6279

Very old 3D Printer, which brand or type is this?

<p>Here are some further details on:</p> <ul> <li>The control board, and;</li> <li>The stepper motors</li> </ul> <h2>Control board</h2> <p>The electronics board has this marking:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui1WV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="EJE Electronics Gubbel Engineering"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui1WV.png" alt="EJE Electronics Gubbel Engineering" title="EJE Electronics Gubbel Engineering"></a></p> <pre><code>EJE Electronics Gubbels Engineering </code></pre> <p>The serial number is <code>0070-003</code></p> <p>According to this site <a href="https://wiki.xinchejian.com/wiki/Mendel_Reprap" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Xinchejian First Mendel V2 Reprap</a> the board is:</p> <blockquote> <p>Gen6 Electronics, with AT Mega 644p processor (PCB EJE Electronics, Gubbels Engineering - mendel-parts.com)</p> </blockquote> <p>It seems to be this board (the serial numbers match):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dccKv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Gen6_PCB_final_batch"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dccKv.jpg" alt="Gen6_PCB_final_batch" title="Gen6_PCB_final_batch"></a></p> <p>Information on this board can be found here: <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Generation_6_Electronics" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Generation 6 Electronics</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Generation 6, or Gen6, can be described as a dedicated, Plug-&amp;-Play, single board solution for FFF/FDM 3D Printers. It is designed to be professionally manufactured, with many small surface mount components, as opposed to Generation 7 which is designed to be printed on a Mendel(among other design goals).</p> <p>Another major difference with Gen6 electronics is that they use Texas Instruments DRV8811 chips to drive the stepper motors. This means they require firmware modifications from the normal Polulu-based electronics which use Allegro A4983 chips.</p> </blockquote> <p>It goes on to say:</p> <blockquote> <p><strong>Benefits of this Design</strong></p> <ul> <li>These electronics are a single board solution, so you don't need all those cables and one thick sheet and 4 reprap parts less.</li> <li><strike>However, the thick sheet does add a fair amount of rigidity.</strike> @$@#?? the bottom thick sheet (big one) doesnt add much rigidity, the front one is used for stiffness of the frame, not the bottom one.</li> <li>It has a standard USB connection (USB A>B cable needed)</li> <li>It uses micro-stepping (1/8) for quieter operation.</li> <li>It is cheaper than for example Makerbot's version of the RepRap Generation 3 electronics.</li> <li>It uses small standard Molex connectors for motors, heater, and optos.</li> <li>The pcb of the optos are integrated, so you only need the optos on cables with 5way Molex connectors</li> </ul> <p><strong>Hardware Features</strong></p> <ul> <li>on-board USB-RS232 convertor</li> <li>Integrated hardware for driving one extruder (stepper, heater and thermistor)</li> <li>RS485 bus connector with the possibility to link through the extruder step and dir signals</li> <li>Integrated hardware for driving H21LOB or TCST2103 slotted optosensors</li> <li>High input voltage range: 12-24Vdc</li> <li>Use of standard connectors with easy and clean installation</li> <li>Debug LEDs for power, communication and heater output</li> <li>Reset button</li> </ul> <p><strong>Specifications</strong></p> <ul> <li>Dimensions 110x60mm</li> <li>Mounting grid: 100x50mm (4x M3)</li> <li>Input voltage 12-24Vdc</li> <li>On-board controller: ATmega 644p (Atmel Corp.)</li> <li>RS485 connector: RJ45</li> <li>Heat output: MOSFET output, 4A</li> <li>Thermistors input: 100K thermistor</li> </ul> </blockquote> <p>There is a lot more information on that page, including information about the power supply, USB, End stops, Heaters, Motors, Firmware, etc. I suggest that you read it fully, in order to understand the board's functionality. </p> <h2>Stepper Motors</h2> <p>The stepper's model number can be seen here:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozDOL.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Stepper serial number"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozDOL.png" alt="Stepper serial number" title="Stepper serial number"></a></p> <p>The stepper's model number is <code>SY42STH47-1683B</code>,</p> <p>which is a <em>NEMA-17 High Torque Hybrid Stepper Motor</em>, with these specifications:</p> <ul> <li>Step angle: 1.8°</li> <li>Number of phase: 2</li> <li>Rated voltage: 2.8 V</li> <li>Rated current: 1.68 A</li> <li>Holding torque: 4.4 kg/cm</li> </ul> <p>This would be, at least, part of the <a href="https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/images/SY42STH47-1684B-060047076.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">datasheet</a>:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nZ07.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Stepper specification"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nZ07.jpg" alt="Stepper specification" title="Stepper specification"></a></p> <p>Here are a couple of links, should you need replacements (~€17):</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.poscope.com/product/nema-17-sy42sth47-1684b-stepper-motor/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">NEMA-17 (SY42STH47-1684B Stepper Motor) - Polabs)</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/sy42sth47-1684b-high-torque-hybrid-stepper-motors.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SY42STH47-1684B High Torque Hybrid Stepper Motors</a></li> </ul> <p>This stepper motor is also listed on the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRapWiki - NEMA 17</a> page:</p> <pre><code>Model Holding Torque Rated voltage Shaft Step angle Motor length Rated current Inductance SY42STH47-1684B 43.1 N·cm 2.8 V Ø 5 mm double 1.8° 48 mm n/a n/a </code></pre>

2018-07-04T21:32:04.370

|marlin|anet-a8|

<p>I have an Anet A8, and recently updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.8. My only change was replacing the configuration files by the Anet A8 sample files built in with the firmware zip file.</p> <p>Everything works fine but, sometimes, right after finishing a printing (while doing the "home all"), the LCD shows some weird data, like this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1Vn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="LCD weird data"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1Vn.jpg" alt="LCD weird data" title="LCD weird data"></a></p> <p>The same happens when push the "confirm", after the mesh bed leveling.<br> I'd like to know why it happens. Is it a Marlin bug?</p>

6281

Anet A8 LCD shows garbage data after done printing

<p>I had this issue for a long time and finally I tried a super-simple hack. Attach a testlead from bed to PSU (which is grounded). Problem solved!</p> <p>In other words: The Marlin firmware may be more "sensitive" than the original stock firmware, but it is not really a firmware issue.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3klX.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3klX.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

2018-07-05T17:35:22.243

|ultimaker-cura|extrusion|

<p>I'm working on building a tool to generate G-code (a simpler slicer), and I'm trying to calculate how much filament should be extruded per movement.</p> <p>Is there a standard calculation for this? Something like:</p> <pre><code>layer height * flow % * extruder diameter * distance </code></pre> <p>How does Ultimaker Cura calculate this?</p>

6289

How is the E argument calculated for a given G1 command?

<p>Basically, all movements are (small) straight lines, the volume of a straight line is easily calculated as you already guessed.</p> <p>To calculate the volume to be extruded you multiply the following parameters:</p> <ul> <li>the layer height <em>(h)</em></li> <li>flow modifier (e.g. as percentage) <em>(SF)</em></li> <li>extruder nozzle diameter <em>(d_n)</em> (or extruder line width if different from nozzle diameter)</li> <li>distance of the straight line <em>(l)</em></li> </ul> <p>With this volume you can calculate how much filament you need to extrude. To get the length (thus the length defined by the <code>E</code> parameter), divide the obtained volume by surface area of your used filament by:</p> <ul> <li>π * (filament radius)² or alternatively π /4 * (filament diameter)² = (π /4 * d_f²)</li> </ul> <p>To sum up, the value of E is given by:</p> <p><span class="math-container">$$ E_{value} = \frac{h \times {SF} \times d_{n} \times l}{\frac{\pi}{4}d_{f}^2} = \frac{4 \times h \times {SF} \times d_{n} \times l}{\pi \times d_{f}^2} $$</span></p>

2018-07-06T11:30:53.763

|filament|heated-bed|adhesion|pom|

<p>In the creation of the process of printing my own bearings to reduce noise, minimize play/tolerances and size the bearings to the actual size of the application, I obtained a spool of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene" rel="noreferrer">Polyoxymethylene</a> (POM) or also known as Acetal or Delrin. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/erVOB.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/erVOB.jpg" alt="Spool of POM filament"></a></p> <p>This polymer is a thermoplastic polymer that is frequently used in engineering precision parts that require high stiffness, low friction and dimensional stability. It has been chosen for these material properties to be used as bearing material for linear guide rails.</p> <p><em>This image shows an example of the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476782" rel="noreferrer">application</a> of customized igus&reg; bearing that is as long as the housing part it is going to fit in:</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QnKHc.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/QnKHc.jpg" alt="customized igus&reg; bearing"></a></p> <p>Prints frequently get knocked over as it does not stick well.</p> <p>How do I get POM filament to stick to the build plate?</p>

6298

POM filament not sticking to the build plate?

<p>Great material but very hard to print as it does not stick easy to the build plate as it has a low friction coefficient to grip onto the heated bed. Also, the material sets quite fast, once the filament leaves the nozzle, it soon hardens so you need to be careful with retraction and Z-hop (leaving small peaks that will be hit later by the nozzle knocking over your print). </p> <p>My experience with printing this material is based on printing with an Ultimaker 3 Extended (on glass) using a modified material profile (based on Nylon). It is printed at 240 °C (+5 °C for the first layer), no usage of the part cooling fan (if you do use cooling, the layers will not adhere well), a heated bed temperature of 80 °C, and a slow printing speed of 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for the first and second layer).</p> <p><em>Ultimaker 3 Extended with printed POM bearing:</em></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bznZ5.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bznZ5.jpg" alt="Ultimaker 3 Extended with printed POM bearing"></a></p> <p>First thing I learned is to use quite large brim's (the image above shows a rather small one for this short bearing, for the longer bearings the brim size was more than doubled, e.g. 20 mm), brims enlarge the surface area so that there is more material that grabs hold of the heated bed. Also ensure to get it to stick long enough is heating the bed to 80 °C after smearing ABS juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) and spraying a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_alcohol" rel="noreferrer">PVA</a> based spray over the dried ABS juice layer (3DLAC has been used, but other hairsprays or even gluesticks may work as well, as long as there is PVA in it). The temperature of 80 °C is chosen as this is the temperature where my PVA spray has the most tack/sticky-ness.</p> <p>Other solutions like heating the bed up to 110 °C using 3DLAC or specifically designed sprays for higher temperature like e.g. Dimafix did not work well for me.</p> <p>Note that complete infill may also give problems as filling out the whole surface area sometimes creates excess material that curls up, which is an easy target to be hit by the nozzle on the next layer. </p> <p><em>This image shows an <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2476782" rel="noreferrer">example</a> of using the printed customized igus® POM bearing that is as long as the mount height:</em></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HXXJE.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HXXJE.jpg" alt="Prusa clone X-axis mount with inserted custom bearing"></a></p> <p><em>Collection of POM printed bearings:</em></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HpCBE.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HpCBE.jpg" alt="Collection of POM printed bearings"></a></p> <p><em>Another <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2520976" rel="noreferrer">application</a> of POM bearings:</em></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4B6Dn.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4B6Dn.jpg" alt="Bowden E3D mount"></a></p> <p><em>CoreXY hot end carriage</em></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0Sq2.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0Sq2.jpg" alt="Hypercube Evolution hot end carriage"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFtkN.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IFtkN.jpg" alt="Hypercube Evolution X-Y mount bearing"></a></p>

2018-07-07T08:49:43.057

|extrusion|colorfabb-xt|

<p>I came across several issues which seem to have been lowered. Firstly, I changed from a 0.4 to a 0.5 mm nozzle. Because of the backpressure I was not able to print my PETG (Colorfabb XT filament) below 270°C which caused unresolvable oozing. After that I was able to extrude till 230°C.</p> <p>The left print below shows the result. I disassembled the hotend, there was no leak or whatsoever. Maybe it was too cold for printing. However, the temperature displayed was 250°C. Then I replaced the cheap aluminum heat block with a copper alloy based one. After that my PIDs did not work anymore. I had to greatly enhance the d-term, otherwise there was a big overshoot. Guess there was a serious heat conducting issue with the old BQ hotend. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxd43.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy heatblock (right)"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxd43.jpg" alt="Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy Heatblock (right)" title="Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy heatblock (right)"></a></p> <p>Anyway, from there it became better. However, I noticed that I still have severe underextrusion after travel moves (second piece, first picture, first piece, second picture). I use Cura, so I activated retraction with the feature to prime after travel moves. I got the wall closed just after 0.35 mm³. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oj1Ey.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oj1Ey.jpg" alt="Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)" title="Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)"></a></p> <p>My Question: Is this underextrusion after travel moves normal for PETG/XT? I did not discover such behavior with PLA or ABS in the past. </p> <p>Current Site Advice: Despite the weight, copper heat blocks seem to be worth the upgrade. </p>

6315

Underextrusion after travel moves with PETG/Colorfab XT

<p>Zero retraction is just a special (worst) case of under-retraction. You'll pretty much always lose material to oozing if you don't retract before travel. At best this ends up hidden inside the print (but can still affect weight and weight balance); usually it'll also harm the surface.</p> <p>Ensure that retraction is set to <em>always</em> happen (not skipping short travel), and at least 5-6 mm for bowden extruders. Direct extruders can get away with less but I'm not sure exactly how much less. Less-rigid materials need more retraction to make up for compression of the filament between the extruder gear and the nozzle.</p>

2018-07-07T09:31:29.617

|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|

<p>I'm thinking of buying an <a href="http://s.aliexpress.com/z6jMvy6j" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino WEMOS</a>¹ as I am tired with SD card fiddling. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKi4r.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Arduino WEMOS"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKi4r.jpg" alt="Arduino WEMOS" title="Arduino WEMOS"></a></p> <p>As the ESP8266 chip has 32&nbsp;Mb (~4&nbsp;MB) flash memory, I am hoping to be able to push most of the G-code files over the Wi-Fi. </p> <p>I was trying OctoPi but, having electronic noise issues, the transmission was not stable. </p> <p>Has anyone tried WEMOS with RAMPS? Is the serial communication stable between ESP and Arduino? </p> <hr> <p>¹ Product description is <em>Mega +WiFi R3 ATmega2560+ESP8266 (32Mb memory), USB-TTL CH340G. Compatible for Arduino Mega, NodeMCU, WeMos ESP8266</em></p>

6316

Arduino WEMOS and RAMPS

<p>After having looked into them, these boards certainly seem to be rather interesting.</p> <p>There appear to be two varieties of this board, as I have seen photos with either <em>RobotDyn</em>:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l7vGQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RobotDyn board"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/l7vGQ.jpg" alt="RobotDyn board" title="RobotDyn board"></a></p> <p>rear (from Instructables)</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwceY.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RobotDyn board (rear)"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rwceY.jpg" alt="RobotDyn board (rear)" title="RobotDyn board (rear)"></a></p> <p>or <em>WeMos</em> logos on them. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/62P2A.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="WeMos board"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/62P2A.jpg" alt="WeMos board" title="WeMos board"></a></p> <p>They <em>may</em>, or <em>may not</em>, be the same. There is also this one, with just a generic "WiFi" logo (from the eBay page below):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybdWZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Generic board"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybdWZ.jpg" alt="Generic board" title="Generic board"></a></p> <h2>Memory Discrepancies</h2> <p>However, there is certainly some discrepancy relating to the specification and amount of memory (unless there are a number of variants - which would certainly be possible):</p> <ul> <li>4&nbsp;MB of Flash is in the ESP8266-12, as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6316/arduino-wemos-and-ramps#comment9539_6316">Dan states</a>, see <a href="https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/esp8266-smt-module-esp-12" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ESP8266 SMT Module - ESP-12</a>. But is it the ESP8266-12 in the board, or is it another ESP variant?</li> <li>This <strong>WeMos</strong> product, on eBay, <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/WeMOS-Mega-WiFi-R3-ATmega2560-ESP8266-USB-TTL-For-Arduino-Mega-NodeMCU-/263689252053" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU</a> appears to agree with the 32&nbsp;Mb¹ </li> <li>This <strong>RobotDyn</strong> board, <a href="https://robotdyn.ru/catalog/arduino/boards/kontroller_arduino_mega_revizii_r3_s_integrirovannym_chipom_wifi_esp8266_b_8_mb_pamyati.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Контроллер RobotDyn Mega 2560 R3 + WiFi ESP8266b, flash память 8Mbit, USB-TTL CH340G, MicroUSB</a>, has 8&nbsp;Mb apparently. </li> <li>However the <strong>same</strong> product page, but in English, upgrades the memory to 32 MB! See <a href="https://robotdyn.com/mega-wifi-r3-atmega2560-esp8266-flash-32mb-usb-ttl-ch340g-micro-usb.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MEGA+WiFi R3 ATmega2560+ESP8266, flash 32MB, USB-TTL CH340G, Micro-USB</a></li> </ul> <p>Looking at this article, Instructables - <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-MEGA-2560-With-WiFi-Built-in-ESP8266/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino MEGA 2560 With WiFi Built-in - ESP8266</a>, it isn't <em>exactly</em> the ESP8266-12:</p> <blockquote> <p>In today's text, we discuss an Arduino that I consider extremely special, as it has an ESP8266 embedded in its board. It doesn’t have the ESP12 soldered onto the board. Instead, it has the Espressif chip. So, on the board you have the built-in Tensilica chip with 4MB of memory, along with the ATmega2560, which is the traditional Arduino Mega.</p> </blockquote> <p>So the ESP has 4&nbsp;MB, but where does the 32&nbsp;Mb come in to play?</p> <p>Well, looking at this RobotDyn memory table (taken from the Instructables page):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAmbU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RobotDyn memory table"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAmbU.jpg" alt="RobotDyn memory table" title="RobotDyn memory table"></a></p> <p>The 4&nbsp;MB of the ESP appears to have been immediately contradicted and upgraded to 8&nbsp;MB! The ATmega2560 <em>somehow</em> has 32&nbsp;Mb (which seems a bit of a lie - as there isn't an ATmega2560 <em>known to man</em> that has that much memory²), and is confused further by the corresponding text:</p> <blockquote> <p>As we see in the table above, the ATmega has 32MB of memory, not counting the ESP memory. This is wonderful, since the traditional Mega Arduino has only 256kb of memory. </p> </blockquote> <p>So <code>MB</code> or <code>Mb</code>? Is there an additional flash IC external to the ATmega2560? Looking at the schematic, taken from the Russian RobotDyn page, there doesn't appear to be:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dX5UC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RobotDyn schematic"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dX5UC.png" alt="RobotDyn schematic" title="RobotDyn schematic"></a></p> <p>So this could be nonsense. Logic would dictate that the ATmega has 256&nbsp;kB and the ESP has 4&nbsp;MB... But I could be wrong..?</p> <p>Links from <a href="https://robotdyn.ru/catalog/arduino/boards/kontroller_arduino_mega_revizii_r3_s_integrirovannym_chipom_wifi_esp8266_b_8_mb_pamyati.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Контроллер RobotDyn Mega 2560 R3 + WiFi ESP8266b, flash память 8Mbit, USB-TTL CH340G, MicroUSB</a>:</p> <ul> <li>Schematic (<a href="https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/Schematic==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PDF</a>)</li> <li>Pin out (<a href="https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/PINOUT==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PDF</a>) (<a href="https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/PINOUT==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">JPG</a>)</li> <li>Mechanics (<a href="https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/DIM==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PDF</a>) (<a href="https://robotdyn.ru/upload/PHOTO/0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G/DOCS/DIM==0G-00005302==MEGA+WiFi-R3-AT2560-ESP8266-8MB-CH340G.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">JPG</a>)</li> </ul> <hr> <h2>Reliability of communication</h2> <p>Regardless of the actual spec, to address your question of ESP/Arduino communication reliability:</p> <p>As the ESP8266 and the ATmega2560 are on the <em>same</em> board one would assume that the (serial) communication between the two would be faultless. However, some issues have been reported³. </p> <p>Nevertheless, from your question, it seems that you were having issues with the ESP to the OctoPi communication, rather than ESP to Arduino, so maybe this doesn't actually answer your question.</p> <p>Also, as to their compatibility with RAMPS, there is very little information available currently, and it would seem to be a case of try-it-and-see. The closest I got was <a href="https://groups.io/g/onstep/message/154" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a> on the thread, <a href="https://groups.io/g/onstep/topic/onstep_and_ramps1_4/7358494?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0::,,,0,0,0,7358494&amp;jump=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OnStep and RAMPS1.4</a>, but it seems to be spam. </p> <p>However, it certainly sounds worth a gamble as it would be a nice combination of technologies. However, I would imagine that some modification of the firmware would be necessary.</p> <hr> <h2>Useful Notes</h2> <ul> <li>From <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3485996#msg3485996" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post #8</a> of Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire)</li> </ul> <blockquote> <p>To upload the sketch to the board:</p> <pre><code>5, 6, 7 ON RXD3 - TXD3 </code></pre> <p>To run the sketch:</p> <pre><code>5 and 6 ON RXD3 - TXD3 </code></pre> </blockquote> <ul> <li>Here is an <a href="http://www.sysengineering.ru/blog/%D1%8D%D0%BB%D0%B5%D0%BA%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BD%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%BB%D0%B5%D1%80-arduino-mega-%D1%81-esp8266/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">excellent manual in Russian</a></li> </ul> <hr> <h2>Footnotes</h2> <p>¹ From <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/WeMOS-Mega-WiFi-R3-ATmega2560-ESP8266-USB-TTL-For-Arduino-Mega-NodeMCU-/263689252053" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU</a></p> <blockquote> <h3>WeMOS Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 USB-TTL For Arduino Mega NodeMCU 　</h3> <p>Features:</p> <ul> <li>Full integration on one board: Mega R3 ATmega2560 and WiFi ESP8266 with memory 32Mb (megabyte)</li> <li>All of the modules can work together or each separately. And everyone has their own pinout headers</li> <li><p>The convenient solution for the development of new projects requiring Uno and WiFi </p></li> <li><p>Via USB you can update sketches and firmware for ATmega2560 and for ESP8266. For this on board have the USB-serial converter CH340G</p></li> <li>Use this board is very simple</li> <li>The board has DIP-switch, to connect the modules. For example to: <ul> <li>USB and ATmeg2560, </li> <li>USB and ESP8266, </li> <li>ATmega2560 and ESP8266</li> </ul></li> </ul> <p>Table DIP- Switch:</p> <pre><code>Connection DIP 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ATmega2560&lt;-&gt;ESP8266 ON ON OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF USB &lt;-&gt;ATmega2560 OFF OFF ON ON OFF OFF OFF USB&lt;-&gt;ESP8266 (Update firmware or sketch) OFF OFF OFF OFF ON ON ON USB&lt;-&gt;ESP8266 (communication) OFF OFF OFF OFF ON ON OFF All independent OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF Special solution: USB &lt;-&gt;ATmega328&lt;-&gt; ESP8266 Connection DIP SWITCH 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 USB &lt;-&gt; ATmega2560&lt;-&gt; ESP8266 ON ON ON ON OFF OFF OFF To RXD3/TXD3 </code></pre> <ul> <li>USB converter CH340G connect to RX0/TX0 of ATmega2560</li> <li>ESP8266 connect to RX3/TX3 of ATmega2560</li> </ul> <p>Size: 10.5x5.3cm/4.13x2.09inch</p> </blockquote> <p>² From the <a href="http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/Atmel-2549-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega640-1280-1281-2560-2561_datasheet.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Atmel ATmega640/V-1280/V -1281/V-2560/V-2561/V datasheet</a></p> <blockquote> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zAjV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zAjV.png" alt="ATmega256 memory"></a></p> </blockquote> <p>³ From <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Mega + WiFi R3 ATmega2560 + ESP8266 (8 Mb mémoire)</a>, there <em>do</em> appear to be some issues communicating between the ATmega and the ESP ICs, with a number of users reporting problems. </p> <p>However, a couple of solutions are provided:</p> <h3>Solution 1</h3> <p>From <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3220188#msg3220188" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post #2</a></p> <blockquote> <ol> <li><p>Set the DIP switch to "special" mode: (<code>1=on, 2=on, 3=on, 4=on, 5=off, 6=off, 7=off, 8=off</code>) see the the description of <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mega-WiFi-R3-ATmega2560-ESP8266-USB-TTL-Arduino-Mega-NodeMCU-WeMos-ESP8266-/222305385421" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the product</a>.</p></li> <li><p>Set the switch in RXD3</p></li> <li>Run the below sketch, change the SSID and PASSWORD values. this is just to test that Arduino and ESP8266 are working together. The code originated from BISSA ORBOEA in Element14.</li> </ol> <p>Code:</p> <pre><code>#include "ESP8266.h" #define SSID "YOURSID" #define PASSWORD "YOURPASSWORD" ESP8266 wifi(Serial3,115200); void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); Serial.println("Restart"); wifi.restart(); delay(1000); Serial.println("FW Version:"); Serial.println(wifi.getVersion().c_str()); if (wifi.setOprToStation()) { Serial.println("OprToStation ok"); } else { Serial.println("OprToStation err"); } if (wifi.joinAP(SSID, PASSWORD)) { Serial.println("Join AP success"); Serial.print("IP:"); Serial.println( wifi.getLocalIP().c_str()); } else { Serial.println("Join AP failure"); } } void loop() { } </code></pre> </blockquote> <h3>Solution 2</h3> <p>From <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3301552#msg3301552" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post #6</a></p> <blockquote> <p>First you need to write the code for each board according your application, but in your code you need to establish a commmincation between serial port of Atmega and ESP in both code, again in according you application. Finally, put the switches which make the intenal interconnection between both. </p> <p>For example, I made a code for ESP to connect in an Access Point and put on a TCP server. When a wireless client is connected in ESP and consequently in the TCP Server, all data send by client I redirect to the serial port. As serial port of ESP is connected with serial 3 of the Atmega, the code in Atmega pass to theat the data from serial 3.</p> </blockquote> <h3>Solution 3</h3> <p>From <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=464400.msg3500882#msg3500882" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post #11</a></p> <blockquote> <p>Follow this if you have the same to my cases:</p> <ol> <li>programm to the ESP(upload sketch) for wifi connection by configure the DIP to 5:on,6:on,7:on and other off.</li> <li>program to mega(upload sketch) in case you want to send communication to each other by configure Dip to 3:on,4:on, and other off.</li> <li>switch two RX0/TX0(in my case I use Serial.print() and Serial.readString() for communicate between Esp and Mega)</li> <li><p>after you already upload sketch to both Modules you can test communication between them by configure DIP to: 1:on,2:on,3:on,4:on. and then press Reset Button to restart the boards.</p></li> <li><p>In ESP you can get the string from Mega by if(Serial.available()) Serial.readString(); and In mega you can get data from ESP by : if(Serial.available())Serial.readString(). </p></li> <li>After you got a string so you can split or do anything whatever you want. </li> <li>If you want send data to Firebase you must use the Firebase Library at the Esp side, in Mega it not support.</li> </ol> </blockquote>

2018-07-08T08:15:58.327

|print-quality|bowden|

<p>I have a Bowden extruder in my printer setup. Everything works great except this effect which must be related with retraction and is generated on Z layer change:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vasJH.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Print layer effect"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vasJH.jpg" alt="Print layer effect" title="Print layer effect"></a> </p> <p>The model itself, is printed in one layer perimeter / outline shell, with 0.25&nbsp;mm layer height with the following settings:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/D66PI.png" rel="noreferrer" title="Printer settings"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/D66PI.png" alt="Printer settings" title="Printer settings"></a></p>

6321

What do you call this effect in 3D printing and how can I remove it?

<p>Your <strong>retraction-related setting &quot;Extra Restart Distance&quot;</strong> = 0.12 mm could be the cause of your issue, by using a too-high value.</p> <p>I don't know which slicer you use, but it seems that this setting is the equivalent of &quot;Retraction Extra Prime Amount&quot; in Cura, there explained as follows:</p> <blockquote> <p>Some material can ooze away during a travel move, which can be compensated for here.</p> </blockquote> <p>So if retraction happens on layer changes in your case, then this setting could be too high, leading to the observed zits.</p> <p>Indeed your value is quite high. It is equivalent to <span class="math-container">$\pi \times (\frac{1.75 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.12 mm = 0.29 mm^3$</span> (assuming 1.75 mm filament). Each of your zits is roughly a half cylinder of 0.6 mm in diameter and 0.35 mm in height, so <span class="math-container">$0.5 \times \pi \times (\frac{0.6 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.35 mm = 0.05 mm^3$</span>. It is easy to imagine that your 0.29 mm³ extra prime amount could be too much by 0.05 mm³.</p>

2018-07-08T16:41:08.080

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|monoprice-select-mini|

<p>Why does this happen (circled in red), and how can I fix it? It is making my prints come out horrible.</p> <p>Not shown in the picture, but the option "Coasting" was Enabled:</p> <ul> <li>Coasting Volume 0.064 mm³</li> <li>Minimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8</li> <li>Coasting Speed 90%</li> </ul> <hr> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4sB6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Rendered G-code view of a sliced model"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4sB6.jpg" alt="Rendered G-code view of a sliced model" title="Rendered G-code view of a sliced model"></a></p>

6326

Gaps in Cura's Slicing for Monoprice Select Mini V2

<p>If you enable the option "Coasting", the extruder will follow the extrusion path at the end of switching to the next layer or the next section, but will not deposit any material as it uses the build up pressure in the nozzle to deposit the final bits. This shows up in your G-code representation by empty (non-depositing) gaps (in reality, when fine-tuned correctly, will be filled).</p> <p><em>E.g. sliced without "Coasting" enabled:</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YJCg.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YJCg.png" alt="Print without enabling the coasting option"></a></p> <p><em>E.g. sliced with "Coasting" enabled:</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAtyB.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAtyB.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

2018-07-08T19:29:03.427

|print-quality|delta|kossel|

<p>My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work. </p> <p>Are there any tricks I can employ to get better prints for PIP models?</p>

6329

Print quality of Kossel clone for Print in Place models

<p>It is possible that your printer is over-extruding, and this will certainly give less satisfactory results when you try to print models which have internal clearances. </p> <p>It is also possible that you have some calibration issues which affect orthogonality, x/y/z dimensions or flatness in each axis.</p> <p>In terms of general improvements, slower and maybe cooler might help - but before jumping in with difficult models, how are your 'standard' print test parts coming out?</p>

2018-07-08T21:07:59.630

|heated-bed|

<p>Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts costs and electronics, but it seems that being able to just heat an area a little larger than the part(s) being built would save in time and energy use.</p>

6331

Heatbed with zones?

<p>It makes more sense to insulate &quot;unused&quot; areas, since the heat conduction goes with the surface area. Heating the plate at some place (instead allover the area) makes no big difference (aluminium is a very good heat conductor, this is already mentioned). But insulation will do. I would propose a downside full insulation (5-10 mm) and some &quot;windows-shaped&quot; square silicone (other thin material?) mats to cover the unused areas (mostly on the outer side of the bed) on the top side. Beware of collisions and auto-leveling algorithms (starting very often at corners). Side effect: you may reach much higher temperatures at the uncovered areas (might be doubled if covering half of the surface).</p>

2018-07-09T10:16:53.013

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|

<p>I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle. </p> <p>Slic3r behavior is different: it raises the nozzle in last printed point and then moves to a new layer starting point (which for me is more obvious)</p> <p><strong>Is there a way to instruct Cura to lift nozzle before it goes to the starting point of a new layer?</strong> excluding Z-hops.</p>

6336

Cura slicer, enforce Z move before layer change

<p>OK, after going via all the options I found that CURA has a combing mode which reduces retraction and offers another option which is <code>Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling</code>.</p> <p>That solves my problem.</p>

2018-07-09T11:28:59.720

|3d-design|cnc|

<p>A member of our hackspace wants to get their 8- and 11- year old kids¹ excited about 3D-printing and CNC cutting and makering in general. We have a weekly open training where people can design and print/CNC/laser an item of their choice like a dogboned box or a two-piece sword and hilt, or a name tag, or whatever. I need a few ideas prepared so we don't spend half our lesson on Thingiverse or in Fusion (more like a quarter)! I'm not a parent and my youngest friend is probably in their twenties.</p> <p>What we have: </p> <ul> <li>a full bed 1200x1800 mm CNC (preferred, because it's loud and fast)</li> <li>Prusa mk3</li> <li>cheapo 80W 500x300 mm laser</li> <li>Fusion 360 based workflow, easy :)</li> <li>Arduinos and stuff</li> </ul> <p>Ideas we've had: a minecraft creeper, done as a simple-ish box.</p> <p><hr> _{1: the (girls) are not interested in my normal kids' goto, which is: swords, shields. They are interested in: minecraft, dragons, horses. _o_/}</p> <p>edit: this is NOT an opinion-gathering post, though there may be more than one "correct" answer. We need specific applications of 3d printing for a young audience. This collection of answers will be useful to evangelize making to a whole new generation!</p>

6338

Interesting project for a child

<p>This question is unfortunately, not a good fit for this site, as it stands, for as you say it is opinion based. However, it is great to see that you are getting kids into a relatively new technology (yes, I know it has been around for years, but it is still seen as new to <em>big media</em> and the general public). </p> <p><strike>My answer doesn't provide you with any actual designs, as you asked for.</strike> However, just to add an idea or two that I have been thinking about recently, in order to engage kids:</p> <ul> <li><p>Have you thought about using 3D printing pens (as side projects to the main feature of the printer)? Although I'm not so sure that the fumes at such close proximity would be that great, unless using PLA. That really would show close up the additive process.</p></li> <li><p>Also, there is a lot of useful sites to be found on <a href="https://www.google.co.th/search?q=T3d%20printing%20for%20kids" rel="nofollow noreferrer">google</a> (which you have probably seen), such as:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.kidscodecs.com/what-is-3d-printing/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">kidscodecs - What is 3D printing?</a></li> <li>All3DP has <a href="https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printed-toys-kids-3d-printing-toys/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printed Toys – 11 Ideas for Children of all Ages</a>, but these <em>seem</em> to need to be purchased.</li> </ul></li> <li><p>Alternative applications for kids, from <a href="https://3dprint.com/159445/best-cad-for-kids/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Best CAD Software for Kid Creators</a>, that might be worth considering if Fusion 360 doesn't float their <strike>Benchy</strike> boat: </p> <ul> <li><a href="http://appsforkids.solidworks.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Solidworks Apps for Kids</a>,</li> <li>SketchUp </li> <li>123D Design</li> <li>Tinkercad; </li> <li>LeoCAD</li> <li>Leopoly</li> <li>BlocksCAD</li> <li>3D Slash</li> <li>Some other ideas from <a href="https://3dprint.com/tag/3d-design-app-for-kids/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3dPrint.com - 3d design app for kids</a></li> </ul></li> <li><p>Maybe, as all kids seem to have iPhones, or what have you, these days, how about an App for kids upon which they can play with a design, and then print it later? Such an app would probably provide examples for them to get started with. One such app is the <a href="https://toymaker.astroprint.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Toy Maker by AstroPrint</a> - although that may require a commercial printer, I'm not sure. However, other such apps for smart phones probably are out there. </p></li> </ul> <p>As for examples, there are <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:kids_toy" rel="nofollow noreferrer">42 kids</a> toys tagged on Thingiverse, such as:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238123" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Save the last Unicorn [Game]</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855568" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cartoon Weiner Dog</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2124806" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lily Bobtail (Peter Rabbit Series)</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:368229" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Grand Hillar</a></li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/El7xY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Grand Hillar"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/El7xY.png" alt="Grand Hillar" title="Grand Hillar"></a></p> <p>Also to take from IronEagle's idea, some fidget spinners:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2313626" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Fidget Spinner</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2285700" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kid Sized Generic Spinner</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2245460" rel="nofollow noreferrer">10mm Nut Fidget Spinner</a></li> </ul>

2018-07-09T15:42:07.727

|creality-ender-3|replacement-parts|

<p>I am pondering about buying a Creality Ender-3, and I am honestly confused about some reviews. Some claim it is running 24 V, one did claim it was 12 V, most don't mention it. Since I know about some issues with the clamps, if I get myself an Ender-3, I want to replace the hotend with a proper one from day one. So knowing its voltage is needed to order the right parts.</p>

6342

What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?

<p>The Ender 3 and the CR-10 printers use the same board which runs on both 12V and 24V. I have one of each and have to be careful swapping parts between the two. </p>

2018-07-10T09:38:45.590

|ultimaker-cura|g-code|

<p>Ok, I did it, I ordered myself an Ender-3, a genuine 24V e3D hotend, inductive sensor and some better tubing/clamps to cope with the problem the CR10/Ender line has occasionally.</p> <p>But now I need to fix up my Cura for the machine coming in. The start is the CR10, and fixing the dimensions is easy.</p> <p>But now comes the tricky part: Start and End G-code. For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the "basic" settings that a "custom 3D printer" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:</p> <pre><code>G28 ;Home G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast ;Prime the extruder G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance G1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance </code></pre> <p>The <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Start_GCode_routines" rel="noreferrer">RepRap Wiki</a> suggests that there could be made so much more from this. </p> <p>I would love to <em>swipe</em> the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.</p> <p><strong>How does an example (commented) G-code for swiping the nozzle look like?</strong></p>

6355

Writing G-code : swiping at start of print

<p>I've experimented a lot with priming/swiping in the G-code prologue, as a result of realizing from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8643/11157">this question and answer</a> how important it is to get it right. The key points are:</p> <ul> <li>Don't go back and forth; you risk picking back up material you already got rid of. Just swipe in one direction.</li> <li>Don't overextrude. This can lead to ending with pressure remaining (especially for printers with bowden extruders) after the swipe/prime line is finished. It's fine if your extrusion rate is so low that adhesion doesn't start til halfway down the line.</li> <li>Slow movement with fan on is good.</li> </ul> <p>And with that said, here's what I use with my Ender 3:</p> <pre><code>M106 ; Max fan to discourage ooze sticking to nozzle G28 ; Home all axes G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E18 ; Draw priming line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching </code></pre> <p>I also undo all but 1mm of the filament retraction at the end of my epilogue (custom end) G-code, to leave the printer in a state comparable to having freshly loaded filament. If you don't undo the retraction here, the low extrusion rate in the prologue might not be enough to prime the next time you print, but increasing it would over-prime in the case where you're dealing with freshly loaded filament.</p>

2018-07-10T13:49:35.493

|z-probe|creality-ender-3|inductive-sensor|

<p>I am getting a 24&nbsp;V based Ender 3. From the factory, it has an aluminium bed. So I also put this <a href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B071ZQ6VV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" rel="noreferrer">LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm</a> with 6-36&nbsp;V operation current into the box together with a few other spare parts. Now, as I read up on these things something dawns on me: The normal input and output voltage of a simple switch is 5&nbsp;V, as sensors are ran on 5&nbsp;V on most boards (and in digital logics). The sensors run on 6&nbsp;V plus though.</p> <p>I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24&nbsp;V into the sensor input: What do I have to do (besides making a mount)?</p>

6358

Inductive Sensor in 24 V machine?

<p><strong>Minimalist Solution</strong></p> <p>The very simplest possible implementation is to use a single resistor(!) to protect the input pin, as described in this <a href="https://scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">source</a>. The AVR inputs are protected from over/under voltage by internal silicon diodes D1 and D2. The input resistor must be sized such that it will conduct no more than 1 mA when the internal clamping diode, D1, conducts at Vcc+0.5V, or 5.5V in this case. A 22K resistor could work in this case if we use our 24V supply for the sensor. Our current through the clamping diode is calculated by Ohm's Law as (24V - 5.5V)/22K = 0.84 mA.</p> <p>There is no reason, in this case, to cut so close to the bone though. We do not need particularly high speed detection for this application, so a 100K resistor would be a better choice, and limits diode D1 to 0.19 mA. This gives additional protection for voltage spikes.</p> <p>This solution works well until the internal diode gets fried by a spike or surge, so it is much better to add redundancy, and use a pair of external Schottky clamping diodes, which have a lower forward voltage drop and will conduct before the internal silicon diodes.</p> <p>So, my solution, (the one I plan to implement soon on my own Ender 3 Pro*), is from <a href="https://scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this source article</a> and looks like this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iudxx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iudxx.png" alt="Circuit diagram showing protection diodes for AVR input"></a></p> <p>Where R1, D3, and D4 are my external components as described, and C1 is omitted for simplicity. (If C1 is used, it forms a low-pass RC filter, so you'd need to size it appropriately. If we find that noise or 'bounce' is an issue, we can add C1 easily later.)</p> <p>In my opinion a single 100K resistor and two Schottky diodes are adequate protection for this circuit, and the 6-36V proximity sensor will work very well on the available 24V supply.</p> <p>*Based on the first comment to this proposed solution, I recognize the need to look carefully at the failsafe property here. Depending on whether the existing Z endstop is included in the loop, and how Marlin handles this too will determine whether this is a satisfactory solution. I'll leave my part of the discussion there for now, until I get closer to design and implementation on my own machine.</p>

2018-07-11T20:25:53.417

|heated-bed|calibration|build-plate|knowledgebase|homing|

<p>When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite sites. It appears as if the print is not in the center.</p> <ul> <li>Why is the print not centered on the bed?<br><em>It was centered in the slicer before generating the G-code.</em></li> <li>How can I center the print to make it fit on the heated build platform?</li> </ul>

6375

How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)

<p>As to <strong>why</strong> this happens, particularly with a budget printer the end-stop mountings may not be particularly precisely located, or the moving part may actuate the endstop slightly differently in each build. In my case, replacing the hot end (and thus the whole carriage) gave me an offset of some cm. With this upgrade, it was impossible to retain the stock calibration since the extruder dimensions are quite different.</p> <p>As to <strong>how to fix it</strong>, the easiest way for me was to modify the 'start g-code'. This fix only applies to the particular slicer, means that what I slice for my A8 won't be centred on the work maker-club Prusa, but doesn't need me to mess about with firmware or apply a per-model update.</p> <p>After the Z-home operation, I already have a pre-extrude step. Prior to this, I set the actual position of what I want my homed point to be, using <code>G92</code></p> <pre><code>M82 ; absolute extrusion mode G28 ; home all G92 X17 Y-12 ; re-define origin G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position </code></pre>

2018-07-12T21:17:30.247

|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|anet-a8|build-plate|y-axis|

<p>I have an Anet A8 which I want to convert to an aluminium frame printer like the <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AM8</a> (rebuild of Anet A8 parts):</p> <p>&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;&emsp;<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEiyEm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Anet A8 conversion to 2040 Al profile"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEiyEm.jpg" alt="Anet A8 conversion to 2040 Al profile" title="Anet A8 conversion to 2040 Al profile"></a></p> <p>This should give a much more stiff frame with respect to the acrylic frame to aid in a better print quality.</p> <p>Since the bed (220 x 220 mm) has a slight warp, I want to use a larger build platform (200 mm x 300 mm) I have laying around. My plan is to use the 300 mm in the Y direction. </p> <ul> <li><p>Knowing the maximum outer distance of the current Y bearings to be 105 mm, is that too short for such a large bed?</p></li> <li><p>How do I calculate the length of the Y axis rods? (especially if you take another distance than 105 mm)</p></li> </ul>

6394

How to calculate linear Y rod length for a larger replacement bed?

<p>Basically, your setup is the following:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/96FEK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Y axis schematic"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/96FEK.png" alt="Y axis schematic" title="Y axis schematic" /></a></p> <p>The overhang of the bed, assuming the bearings are in the center, equals <code>(300-105)/2 = 97.5 mm</code> on each side. So the distance from the leftmost bearing face (when bed is at <code>y = 0 mm</code>) to the center of the Y rods assembly equals <code>300 - 97.5 = 202.5 mm</code>. Knowing this distance for the other side of the center to the right when <code>y = 300 mm</code> is the same, the minimum length of the rod will therefore be <code>2 x 202.5 = 405 mm</code> which equals the addition of the bed length and the outer bearing distance <code>300 + 105 = 405 mm</code>.</p> <p>Please note this excludes extra length for e.g. a limit switch, and some extra space around the bed. Basically the extra length of the bed <code>300 - 220 = 80 mm</code> needs to attributed to each side of the bed, so <code>40 mm</code> on each side extra.</p> <p>For a 220 x 220 mm bed, the minimum length would be <code>2 x (220 - (220 - 105)/2) = 325 mm</code>. When I measure the rods between the acrylic flanges it measures about <code>365 mm</code>, about <code>40 mm</code> extra for clearance around the bed (<code>20 mm</code> on each side).</p> <p>The overhang for the 300 mm bed is not that much, and a construction under the heated plate will be used to fasten the bed at the corners, as long as that construction is not too flimsy, the current distance will be alright. For other distances you should change the value of 105 in the formulas above. E.g. for an outer flange distance for the bearings of 120 mm, you would require rods of at least 420 mm.</p>

2018-07-14T11:26:03.753

|ramps-1.4|electronics|print-fan|

<p>I have built a 3D printer from parts. It is using a standard 12V power supply, an Arduino Mega 2560 replica and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The hotend cooling fan is connected to the 12V-AUX pin (the one right next to the x axis stepper driver) on the RAMPS board so that it continuously receives power as long as the machine is turned on. The printer is controlled by the Marlin firmware.</p> <p>When I give power to the board, the cooling fan starts spinning with a lot of noise. It sounds like it is receiving a higher amount of current than it should. Moreover, the noise is not steady, but fluctuates slightly. After about 30 seconds, it gets slightly quieter; after about 40-50 seconds, there is a sudden break. From then on, the fan spins quietly and regularly.</p> <p>According to measurements with a multimeter, the power supply is keeping a constant and correct voltage of slightly over 12V right from the beginning. Hence, I suspect the issue is somewhere on the RAMPS board.</p> <p>I am worried about this being more than a problem of unpleasant noisiness. What could be the cause and is there more to worry about?</p> <p>You can listen to a recording of the sound: <a href="https://soundcloud.com/user-769347820/3d-printer-hotend-cooling-fan-noise/s-OizCr" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D printer hotend cooling fan noise</a></p> <p>Note that I am not talking about a fan for cooling the extruded plastic, but the one sitting on the extruder heatsink.</p> <hr> <p>Shutting down the printer (even literally unplugging the power supply) and plugging it back in does not lead to the startup noise appearing again. Only when waiting for multiple minutes before reconnecting does it happen again.</p> <p>The voltage to the fan is measured to be constant. The current, on the other hand, correlates with the sounds heard. It starts at 110 - 115 mA. When the fan is quiet, it is at about 90 mA.</p>

6398

Cooling fan spins extremely fast, noisy on startup

<p>Late to the party but still...</p> <p>The noise could be caused by the lubrication of the fan ...when you turn on the fan, the lubrication is seated down. As the fan spins, the lubrication gets all over the bearing thus centering the fan reducing the vibrations aka noise.</p>

2018-07-14T18:47:23.570

|creality-ender-3|marlin|homing|knowledgebase|

<p>I got myself the Ender 3. The Home position is about 1 mm left and 2 mm in front of the front left corner. Now, the hotend center axis is 11 mm from the carrier plate with the &quot;Mk 10&quot; cooler mounted right onto a pair of 5 mm pegs that are part of the plate. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22 mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 13 mm) to the current Z axis. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance.</p> <p><strong>How do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches?</strong></p> <p>According to Repetier Host it runs on <strong>Marlin 1.0</strong>. Creality offers the firmware on <a href="https://www.creality3d.cn/download/firmware_c0001" rel="nofollow noreferrer">their website</a> as a <strong>.hex</strong> file - which is hard to edit.</p>

6399

Recalibrating Home-position

<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762/greenonline">Greenonline</a> and I spent this evening hacking/reverse engineering the Ender3 to solve this. <a href="https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2018/08/13/compiling-marlin-for-a-creality-ender-3/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Greenonline also wrote about this in his blog</a>.</p> <h2>Step 1 - Get the Firmware</h2> <p>To do this, there are basically two ways:</p> <ol> <li>Find the a ready-to-use firmware</li> <li>Make your own</li> </ol> <p>Variant 1 would be to use the pre-supplied .hex files from Creality or some other manufacturer. Variant 2 means writing the settings yourself or using <a href="https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Repetier firmware</a> to write the files for you. In the case of the Ender 3, the chip used sadly disqualified Repetier firmware, so writing it yourself is the only option.</p> <p>To write the firmware yourself or using Repetier firmware, you need the old settings. To get these, connect the printer via USB, connect it with a software like <a href="https://www.repetier.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Repetier host</a> and send <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M503</code></a> to get all the settings.</p> <p>Now, either hack those into Repetier firmware or use a blank <a href="http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>Marlin.ino</code></a> and the Arduino IDE to customise it. In the later case, you need to put the folder <code>Marlin-?.?.X.ZIP/Marlin-?.?.X/Marlin</code> into the <code>Arduino</code> folder in Documents (Windows) or Home (Mac). Now open the <code>Marlin.ino</code> in <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino IDE</a>. Set up the new firmware with these base settings or adjust as needed.</p> <h2>Step 2 - Adjust</h2> <p>Now that we have our Configuration files (in the end we pretty much skipped step 1 and <a href="https://www.chaos-drucker.de/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Marlin-Ender3-V1.zip" rel="nofollow noreferrer">grabbed a fitting (<strong>German!</strong>) one</a> from <a href="https://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Christian</a>, a German maker also known as &quot;Chaos-Drucker&quot;), we need to first adjust them as needed to fit our needs and then compile them properly (next step!). As an alternative (<strong>English!</strong>) base to work with, the <a href="https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/th3d-unified-firmware/?seq_no=10" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TH3D firmware</a> is also available, provided by the Hooglands and team at TH3D.</p> <p>So, let's open your <code>Marlin.ino</code> with <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software" rel="nofollow noreferrer">arduino</a> and find the <code>X_MIN_POS</code> (<code>CTRL</code>+<code>F</code> &gt; <code>X_MIN_POS</code> &gt; Search all sketches).</p> <p>In the configurations we grabbed the sketch file <code>Configuration.h</code> contains lines 786-789 <em>(might differ)</em>:</p> <pre><code>// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS -10 #define Y_MIN_POS -15 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 </code></pre> <p>Adjust these till the wanted position is achieved - Repetier Host can help here to determine the right position.</p> <h2>Step 3 - Compile</h2> <p>The hardest step with the Ender3 was to get the code to actually compile, as it uses an <a href="http://www.technoblogy.com/show?19OV" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ATmega1284P 16Bit</a> which isn't supported by Arduino natively. While the <a href="https://github.com/MCUdude/MightyCore" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MightyCore</a> supports this chip, it doesn't compile with this hardware library. However, Christian did figure out that the <a href="https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sanguino</a> set to an ATmega 1284P 16bit does work. These belong as <em>extracted folders</em> into the <code>Arduino/hardware</code> folder, usually in your Documents (if you use Windows) or Home (on mac). Now, we did set <code>Tools&gt;Board:&gt; Sanguino</code> and <code>Tools&gt;Processor:&gt;ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)</code></p> <p>It was also mandatory to have the <a href="https://github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino" rel="nofollow noreferrer">U8glib.h for Arduino</a> installed. To do this, download the zip from github, then in the Arduino software <code>Sketch&gt;Include Library&gt;Add .ZIP Library...</code> and choose the whole zip repository to auto install.</p> <p>With these settings we were able to compile the settings.</p> <h2>Step 4 - Getting it on the machine</h2> <p>Most people would expect to read about bootloaders and flashing now, and indeed that is an option. But as I had just figured out <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware">how to install firmware from .hex</a> and so I wondered: Can't we make .hex files from our settings? And yes, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6658/8884">Arduino supports this</a>.</p> <p>So, in Arduino IDE press <code>Ctrl</code>+<code>Alt</code>+<code>S</code> (or <code>Sketch &gt; Export Compiled Binary</code>). This will result in two files:</p> <ul> <li><code>Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex</code></li> <li><code>Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex</code></li> </ul> <p>Of these two, the <code>Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex</code> is the interesting one for &quot;direct flashing&quot; via CURA. Use this file with the process starting at Step 2 <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6655/8884">here</a> or use one of <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6656/8884">Greenonline's solutions</a> to get the firmware flashed - no bootloader needed!</p>

2018-07-16T13:43:05.273

|3d-models|makerbot|makerware|

<p>I made a simple extrude on a sketch in Fusion 360:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaaYa.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Fusion 360 extrude"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaaYa.png" alt="Fusion 360 extrude" title="Fusion 360 extrude"></a></p> <p>But what MakerBot software shows me in the preview is</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnCJo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="MakerBot preview of extrude"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KnCJo.png" alt="MakerBot preview of extrude" title="MakerBot preview of extrude"></a></p> <p>Can someone explain how to make it print a smooth wall? Mesh of the model also seems to be okay. Configuration is in the high preset.</p>

6409

Why does MakerBot software shows holes in the wall of a 3d model?

<p>I guess you are referring to the corner of the part facing you in the first figure, and the sliced corner on the left in the second figure and not the white lines on the wall facing you. This latter effect is called <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moir%C3%A9_pattern" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Moiré</a> or moiré pattern which is an optical illusion created by interference.</p> <p>This appears to be a slicer error or a rendering error, the walls are not finished. Furthermore from your sparse question it is noteworthy to say that you have sliced the model on a raft.</p> <p>Why not print the model, it will start a raft and when you come to the part it will clearly show whether it is a slicing or a rendering problem!</p> <p>If it is a rendering problem, keep continuing printing, if not, stop the print and download a most recent version of any other free available slicer tool. The most commonly used free slicer tools are <a href="https://ultimaker.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ultimaker Cura</a> and <a href="http://slic3r.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slic3r</a>. Setup a printer profile and select and modify material and slicing properties to create a new G-code file for you to print. You can now compare the rendering of used new tool to your current rendering and print the model to see if the part now prints well.</p>

2018-07-16T19:07:06.840

|g-code|cnc|

<p>I am wondering if this piece of G-code is valid:</p> <pre><code>G0 (Some comment (Its G0 command)) Y10 Z-5 </code></pre> <p>I have tested this on my Chinese CNC machine and it strips out the comment and works flawlessly.</p> <p>The machine processes this as <code>G0Y10Z-5</code> which seems like the correct approach to me.</p> <p>I have however never seen such comment in real CNC practise. It would be nice if anyone is able to test it out on their CNC/3D Printer.</p> <p>Many G-code simulators on the internet fail to process such a line in their parser so it makes me confused. I haven't found anything about it on RepRap Wiki or even Google.</p>

6410

Are parentheses allowed within a G-code comment?

<p>It looks like comments inside parentheses are not allowed in numerous parsers (ie. Marlin). This seems to be true for most of the 3D printers. Classical CNC milling machines use parentheses without problems.</p> <p>It should work on Prusa printers as stated in their <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Comments" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wiki</a>. Unfortunately there are no words about nesting of the comments.</p> <p>I have however found a comment on cnczone.com forums regarding the nesting of comments within parentheses.</p> <blockquote> <p>Printable characters and white space inside parentheses is a comment. A left parenthesis always starts a comment. The comment ends at the first right parenthesis found thereafter.</p> <p>Once a left parenthesis is placed on a line, a matching right parenthesis must appear before the end of the line.</p> <p>Comments may not be nested; it is an error if a left parenthesis is found after the start of a comment and before the end of the comment.</p> <p>Here is an example of a line containing a comment: <code>G80 M5 (stop motion)</code></p> </blockquote> <p>Source: <a href="https://www.cnczone.com/forums/g-code-programing/103434-coments-g-code.html#post763510" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cnczone.com</a></p>

2018-07-17T23:22:59.773

|ultimaker-cura|

<p>I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to <a href="https://ultimaker.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">their website</a> and download a new version. For whatever reason, I could not get the <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/download-request/191" rel="nofollow noreferrer">download link</a> to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions. </p> <p>Where are reputable mirrors for Cura?</p> <p>Download.Cnet.com and Sourceforge <a href="https://duckduckgo.com/?q=download%20cura&amp;t=ffsb&amp;ia=web" rel="nofollow noreferrer">came up as sources</a>, but years ago they both <a href="http://insecure.org/news/download-com-fiasco.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">went to the darkside</a> (SourceForge: <a href="https://www.howtogeek.com/218764/warning-don%E2%80%99t-download-software-from-sourceforge-if-you-can-help-it/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">HowToGeek</a>, <a href="https://thecomputerpeeps.com/2013/08/sourceforge-malware/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">thecomputerpeeps</a>). I don't see anything else that looks even remotely reputable in the search results.</p> <p>I did some analysis, and it appears that the drop down and form don't work correctly if you select "I don't want to share any personal information", leading me to think this is web page bug.</p>

6419

Where is a reputable place to download Ultimaker Cura?

<p>The answer to your question is: <strong>&quot;From the application developer itself!&quot;</strong>.</p> <p>Below is the explanation how you can (directly) download Ultimaker Cura from the most reputable source: Ultimaker.com</p> <hr /> <h2>Regular download</h2> <p>When clicking the <a href="http://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list" rel="noreferrer">link to download</a> of the Cura application download button from the <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software" rel="noreferrer">Ultimaker website</a> you are presented with a pop-up GUI that asks you if you want to share where you are using the program for. When you select the required field and press download, the download starts. If this doesn't work, a direct download approach can be used.</p> <h2>Direct download</h2> <p>If the regular download method fails, or you do not get the pop-up GUI, you can use the direct link for Ultimaker Cura from the developer's website:</p> <p><a href="https://download.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker_Cura-4.1.0-win64.exe" rel="noreferrer">https://download.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker_Cura-4.1.0-win64.exe</a></p> <p><strike>This link can be found at the download directory at the website:</p> <p><a href="https://download.ultimaker.com/current/" rel="noreferrer">https://download.ultimaker.com/current/</a></p> <p>This web directory overview also shows all previous releases and installers for other platforms.</p> <p>As of version 3.6.0, the download does not appear to be in the list, this link will show an overview: <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list" rel="noreferrer">https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list</a> Do note that the latter link will show the pop-up.</strike></p> <p><em>As of version 4.1, the web directory overview link will serve a 404.</em></p> <h3>Github</h3> <p>The Ultimaker Cura Project has a Github, where they offer the current and previous editions under:</p> <p><a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags" rel="noreferrer">https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags</a></p>

2018-07-19T06:02:46.303

|nozzle|troubleshooting|creality-cr-10|

<p>I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.</p> <p>Today I set it to "preheat" mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wanted to start the print I noticed that the temperature showed as "actual temperature" on the printer's screen showed 233°C and it was going up steadily while the "requested" temperature was still 210°C.</p> <p>Thiking it might be a mis-manipulation on my part I powered it down for a few minutes (I got scared by the high-temp) and then powered it back on. I then immediately requested the print to start. The CR-10 heated up to the proper value, started printing and kept heating the nozzle. I stopped it at 217°C.</p> <p>I looked for an answer on the internet but all I could find is people having trouble with the nozzle not heating at all ...</p>

6427

Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases

<p>A similar condition occurred in my 3D printer. I solved the same. I checked all my connection and I came to know that I connected the thermistor of the extruder in the wrong port. So just check the connection of your thermistor.</p> <hr> <p>Actually my 3D printer circuit board frequently failed because of over current. I then added a multimeter in series with my power supply and the load, also a voltmeter across the voltage regulator. I then corrected every motor driver DRV8825 to a reference voltage of 0.6&nbsp;V so that the maximum current supplied to each of the motor will be less than 1&nbsp;A. All these made my circuit checked ok. Then I uploaded the G-code, but I couldn't print because my extruder gets heated about 280 °C and got reset and suddenly shut down the extruder supply. This continues to happen.</p> <p>Then I reinstalled the Marlin firmware and I also changed the port of my thermistor. Now my 3D printer is ok and prints nicely. I also faced another problem while I gave the print command - it showed that the extruder and bed had started heating but it actually was not heating. So I reinstalled the firmware again and this fixed it. Now my 3D printer works OK. You just try for these steps:</p> <ol> <li>Check the connection.</li> <li>Reinstall the firmware.</li> <li>Try manually preheat the extruder, and just see whether it heats to infinity.</li> </ol> <p>These are my working experience please try for these, I think it will help you. Just don't leave it you will get the solution. Keep on trying.</p>

2018-07-21T23:34:38.153

|3d-models|stl|freecad|

<p>I'm trying to modify some parts on <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115095" rel="noreferrer">this</a> thing. I'm kind of new to dealing with the modeling aspects of this.</p> <p>I am attempting to widen the part essentially 3mm. This would involve modifying the chain segments, and the anchor points.</p> <p>I have already attempted this with 3D Builder and the result was less than stellar. I split the part, cloned off about 3mm of the middle of the X-Chain (including the top &amp; bottom bits). The intent was to break the part, translate one of the halves off 3mm, add back the 3mm into the gap.</p> <p>When I put all the parts back together and merged them in 3D Builder, the resultant model, while visually on screen appeared to be one piece, the slicing proved otherwise.</p> <p>Is there a way that I can do the above in FreeCAD? I'm learning this so tutorial links would be more than sufficient. But if there is someone who can explain this process to me in FreeCAD that would also be appreciated.</p>

6447

Split/edit part in FreeCAD?

<p>I found Dave G's answer to be helpful, however I could only use additive features (e.g. Pad) on the created object, and could not make subtractive features <em>into</em> the object (e.g. Pocket).</p> <p>Here's what worked for me using FreeCAD 0.19 (Instructions from <a href="http://pinter.org/archives/4255" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this site</a>):</p> <ol> <li>Create new document</li> <li>Import STL (File --> Import)</li> <li>Part workbench --> Create shape from mesh</li> <li>Part workbench --> Shape builder...</li> <li>Create shape, select "Solid from shell". Make sure "Refine shape" box is checked. Press "Create" button. (You may need to switch to the "Model" tab in the Combo View and select your shape object.)</li> <li>Change to the PartDesign workbench. Select the newly-created "Solid" in the Combo/Tree View, then select PartDesign --> "Create body"</li> <li>A new Body will be created with your Solid as a BaseFeature that can work with Pad <em>and</em> Pocket features.</li> </ol>

2018-07-23T01:06:44.170

|heated-bed|troubleshooting|flashforge-creator|

<p>I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG (<a href="http://replicat.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ReplicatorG</a>), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.</p> <p>I reset everything and watched it closely. It is a simple abs print at 230/110 degrees.</p> <p>A few seconds after start of print, I noticed that the print bed temp had dropped to 109... and kept dropping.</p> <p>This is new behavior. I haven't started to troubleshoot yet. I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.</p> <p><strong>Edit 1:</strong></p> <p>Tonight RepG would not connect to the printer. I reseated the USB cord and now it does.</p> <p>The test print is ABS at 230/110 from this open scad.</p> <pre><code>difference() { cylinder(d = 10, h = 2); cylinder(d = 9, h = 2); } </code></pre> <p>Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2/Oscar Once the print starts the print bed begins cooling. It is cooling before any filament is laid down.</p> <p><strong>Edit 2:</strong></p> <p>Examination of the gcode shows the root cause. It does contain</p> <pre><code>M104 S230 T1 (set extruder temperature) </code></pre> <p>It does not contain a </p> <pre><code>M109 S110 (set build plate temperature) </code></pre> <p>When I manually add the M109 to the gcode file, the model prints normally, and the build plate temperature holds for the duration of the print. </p> <p>The drop in temperature last week is due to the fact that I tend to preheat the printer before actually starting the print. Since there was no M109 the bed plate cooled to ambient temperature.</p> <p>There isn't a hardware issue here. Most likely it is a Rep G configuration error of some sort.</p> <p><strong>Edit 3:</strong></p> <p>I resolved the issue by a fresh install of the latest Rep G. I rebuilt the profiles from scratch with G Code to set the correct bed temp. Thank you for your suggestions.</p>

6451

Build plate cools during print

<p>Preheating the bed is a commonly used approach to shorten the time to print. I'll explain; it actually does not shorten the physical print time itself, but before you start a print there is always stuff to do like inserting the SD-card or loading the model in the print server, while you do that, the bed will be heating, so time gained.</p> <p>When you load a model it apparently resets the temperatures, so preheating will only have an effect when you also actually set the bed temperature in the G-code file. This means that either your G-code file has some codes that influence the temperature, the connector is loose or loading a print over the program you use must reset the bed temperature, there aren't any other options.</p> <p>To comment on your G-code, M109 is used to set the extruder temperature and wait till it is reached, M190 is used to set the bed temperature and wait till it is reached. Usually M190 is used to set the bed temperature before the first layer is being printed; the printer waits until the temperature is reached before the printer continues to the next command (usually the heating of the hotend). If you have selected a different temperature for the rest of the print you will find the M140 G-code command prior to printing the second layer.</p> <p>I have tested on my Prusa i3 clone running a Marlin fork to print a model with all references to M190 and M140 removed. I pre-heated to 70 &deg;C (for PETG) and loaded the model in OctoPrint print server and commenced the print. The printer retained the bed value and did not drop.</p> <p>Basically, it is needed to take a closer look at your G-code file. The answer must be in there. If there is nothing to find in the G-code file and electronic connections are fine, the answer must be found in ReplicatorG, this might send reset signals prior to sending the print, but that sounds really strange.</p>

2018-07-24T18:19:00.927

|z-axis|layer-height|

<p>I have a new Tevo Tornado, which I have completed two good prints with, a 20x20 test cube from the supplied SD and the spool holder also from the SD. I say this to note that the printer was capable of producing a good print.</p> <p>Print 3 was a design I created in Fusion and it printed badly, very disappointing holes missing. Stringing gaps between material just rubbish. I downloaded a simple print from Thingiverse just to see if it was my poor design skills or the printer and that came out just as poorly: lots of strings between details. Both of these were sliced in Cura. As that doesn't have a tornado driver, I downloaded one from the support group and the prints have not even started properly, see pictures for example.</p> <p>I might be going down rabbit holes here but this is what I have found and tried:</p> <ul> <li>1 relieved bed - done to ridiculous degree of accuracy, cold gross levelling then bed and nozzle at PLA working temp using feeler gauges. I have done 0.1&nbsp;mm, 0.15&nbsp;mm, 0.2&nbsp;mm </li> </ul> <p>Now I have added to the suspicion the z axis coupler see images below: </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KX2DWm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="z axis flexible coupling#1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KX2DWm.jpg" alt="z axis flexible coupling#1" title="z axis flexible coupling#1"></a><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAWNmm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="z axis flexible coupling#2"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAWNmm.jpg" alt="z axis flexible coupling#2" title="z axis flexible coupling#2"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/djWvKm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="z axis flexible coupling#3"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/djWvKm.jpg" alt="z axis flexible coupling#3" title="z axis flexible coupling#3"></a></p> <p>YouTube videos, that I have seen, show couplers that are not a spring - any thoughts? I would certainly appreciate the time anyone has to impart their knowledge.</p> <p><strong>EDIT 1</strong>: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)</p> <p><em>The print bed is brand new from Tevo the unit has only done a few prints most aborted, and I also thought perhaps a residue from the feeler gauges had contaminated the bed, but I have cleaned it with alcohol wipes and also tried putting prints on to unused parts of the bed. You are right the g-code from the test print was from an unknown slicer, no doubt tuned by the manufacturer the part I designed in Fusion was sliced by cura. I have since tried the original test piece and it fouls the extruder nozzle almost straight away.</em> </p> <p><em>The main differences and there are not many between the set up parts, are that the Cura code does a G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-3.5 before starting layer 0 (both set z0,3). The test piece just does a G92 E0 G1 F7200 the feed rates are different the cura print sets M204 S500 and the test sample sets no acceleration. I assume there is a default in the Marlin firmware.. there is no doubt some globs of PLA stick like in dots between the strings, but the extrusion between direction changes do not kind of like join the dots where dots stick and joins don't.</em> </p> <p><em>I am going to change the coupler because, well, I don't know what else to do. Replacing it with a better one can't help. Other things I have thought about - PLA temps - I have gone up the whole range according to the manufacturers bandwidth in 5 degree increments no difference I have also done some bed changes but neither hotter nor colder (it's 30°C and humid at the moment, so maybe a materials property issue, but then again no difference in conditions between a successful first test and all the messes). I am storing the PLA in a gel bead box to reduce humidity. still basically stumped!</em></p> <p><strong>EDIT 2</strong>: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)</p> <p><em>Thanks for your observation, it's a new bed and I clean down with alcohol wipes ( isopropyl) I don't think I have ever put a finger on the bed - very aware of that. While I don't know what I am talking about on the one hand I am semi convinced it is not the bed, anyway I am going to get a glass bed in part to deal with the protruding screw head issue.</em></p>

6462

Layer 1 won't adhere anymore

<p>What it may useful to improve your prints, are the following elements, according to my personal experience with the Tevo Tornado: 1) level the bed when it's warm. 2) print a cylinder that should measure 100 mm, afterwards measure it with a caliper: regulate the steps per mm according to the difference (many guides for calibration are available, for example: <a href="https://youtu.be/Wk3qYOB4E9I" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://youtu.be/Wk3qYOB4E9I</a>) 3) print this object to be installed on the z axis and regulated with an M5 screw and nut: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2827664" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2827664</a> 4) Print a test for temperatures, like this: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131069" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131069</a> I hope it helps. Happy printing.</p>

2018-07-27T12:18:53.717

|extruder|calibration|knowledgebase|

<p>For my <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DIY coreXY printer</a> I use 2.85 mm filament that is fed into an E3D clone hotend using a Bowden tube and a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897762" rel="nofollow noreferrer">custom designed extruder with belt reduction</a> centered around an Aluminium Bulldog extruder with an MK8 extruder gear. The reduction is necessary to create more torque to feed the filament correctly to prevent skipping and filament slipping and grinding.</p> <p>The prints show under-extrusion (e.g. shell lines and bottom layer lines not or barely touching).</p> <p>How can I calibrate my extruder to extrude just enough filament?</p>

6483

How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?

<h2>Basic process<br></h2> <blockquote> <p>To <strong>calibrate the extruder</strong> you would need to <strong>verify</strong> that the <strong>requested amount</strong> of filament is <strong>actually what is being moved by the extruder</strong>.</p> </blockquote> <hr /> <h2>Structural or temporary problem<br></h2> <p>A first thing to check when under or over-extrusion is encountered for a fresh spool of filament on a normally good working printer is to check the diameter of the filament with a caliper (see image below) and change this value accordingly in the slicer software of your choice and make a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865" rel="nofollow noreferrer">test print</a>. If the problem persists or is present from the start of your purchase or build, please proceed. Note that there are two ways to change the extrusion, a simple solution is changing the extrusion multiplier in the slicer software, the better one is to fix the extrusion rate in the firmware. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGF6W.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGF6W.jpg" alt="Measure the filament with a caliper" /></a><br> <em>Please note that you should measure the filament diameter at several positions</em> <br><br></p> <h2>3D printer</h2> <p>There is a difference between DIY and commercial printers. Usually a commercial printer of decent quality <strong>rarely</strong> needs to be adjusted (as this is the job of the manufacturer). But cheap, commercial clones of well known printers, may need adjusting. Depending on the ability to change the settings of the software/firmware (closed or open source, or type of firmware), the user may (or may not) be allowed to change the values through configuration files or G-code commands.</p> <p>For DIY printers, the builder is responsible for the printer as a whole and thus entrusted with the software/firmware setup of the printer controller board. The chosen printer firmware and its configuration should be done based on the printer layout and used hardware (also electronics like stepper drivers, remember the micro steps setting) which e.g. determines the amount of steps that are required to move an axis a certain amount of millimeters (steps/mm). This also applies to the extruder stepper. To start with a value of steps per mm, you could search the internet for your extruder type and recalculate the steps/mm roughly keeping your specifically used micro step value of the used stepper driver (which is set by dip switches or jumper caps an the printer board) in mind. With this basic setting you will be able to do a test. <br><br></p> <h2>Calibrate extruder (hot or cold)</h2> <p>When you have a printer, or build a printer and uploaded a rough setting for the extruder steps per mm, please test the amount of extruded filament. It is customary to mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point, then extrude e.g. 100 mm, and then check the distance the mark on the filament has traveled. The distance should be 100 mm, if not, you should change the value of the steps/mm in the firmware. To extrude 100 mm you will need to send instructions to your printer over USB connection using a terminal or graphical user interface typically found in freeware applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. or by creating <code>.gcode</code> text files with specific instructions and load the models through the menu of the printer from e.g. SD-card.</p> <p>The <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G-code</a> <code>G1 E100 F100</code> commands the extruder stepper to move 100 mm in 100 mm per minute (please lookup if these G-codes are supported by your firmware!). Be sure that you have preheated the nozzle prior to extruding, many firmware's have built in protection to disallow extrusion below a certain temperature of the nozzle. For SD-card printing, e.g. for PLA you should <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait" rel="nofollow noreferrer">preheat</a> the nozzle to e.g. 195 °C with <code>M109 S195</code> and as such must be placed before the actual extrusion command.</p> <p>If the measured distance is different than the instructed length, a simple calculation will determine your follow up actions. E.g. if the instructed length of 100 mm is in reality 95 mm, the extruder should extrude <code>(100 - 95) / 95) * 100 = 5.2 %</code> more, or similarly said, the extrusion needs to be multiplied by 1.052. This could be applied in the slicer, but when this is a structural problem you should fix this in the firmware itself. This can be done by adjusting the printer configuration file and uploading new firmware (and settings) or for some printer firmware solutions use the same method as previously used to instruct to extrude filament. The G-code for setting the extruder steps in Marlin firmware is <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M92</a> if done with codes. If the original value (can be obtained with the command <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M503</a>) is e.g. 400 steps per mm, the value should be changed to <code>100/95 * 400 = 421 steps/mm</code>. The command <code>M92 E421</code> will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using <code>M500</code>.</p> <p>When the configuration file approach is used, the following line in the configuration:</p> <pre>/** * Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm) * Override with M92 * X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]] */ #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 200, 400 }</pre> <p>needs to be adjusted to:</p> <pre>#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 200, 421 }</pre> <p>You can do this a few times to fine tune the extrusion process.</p> <p>For people that have a Bowden setup and firmware that supports altering the minimum extrusion temperature, you could disconnect the Bowden tube to ignore the hotend heat up by temporarily <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudes" rel="nofollow noreferrer">disabling the cold extrusion</a> limit (<code>M302</code> will display the current value) with <code>M302 S0</code>. After calibration please remember to set it back, e.g. <code>M302 S170</code>. Do note that temperature and extrusion speed do influence the extrusion process, so you might want to fine tune the extrusion process at temperature.</p> <p>Now you printer extruder is tuned and should extrude the exact amount as instructed. <br><br></p> <h2>Fine tuning</h2> <p>Although the extruder may now be correctly tuned to extrude exactly the amount as instructed, the slicer may have a different view. Be sure to set the slicer extrusion multiplier to 1.0 when fine tuning the extruder/slicer combination. The ultimate fine tuning starts with printing an object with zero bottom and top layers and a single perimeter with a fine layer height (0.1 or 0.15 mm). <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kdstk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kdstk.jpg" alt="Single perimeter cube" /></a><br> Measure the thickness of the wall and adjust your slicer extrusion multiplier accordingly.</p> <p>Now your extruder and slicer should be optimally fine-tuned!</p>

2018-07-27T12:53:41.203

|marlin|anet-a8|

<p>I just completed assembly of the Anet A8 and powered it up. </p> <p>Powering up shows white blocks on LED and a series of clicking noise for about three seconds with flashing red LED. During power-up, the following happens:</p> <ul> <li>The side heat sink fans start (Blower fan remains off)</li> <li>LED comes up with all white blocks and buttons do nothing</li> <li>No motor moves in any way</li> <li>Motherboard show not light except a three-flash-red-LEDnear the corner (fan connector)</li> <li>Printer remains in the state</li> <li>Reset button only repeats the clicking sound + red flashing LED</li> </ul> <p>Video: <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/mxNNeK5o13a9C6TC8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://photos.app.goo.gl/mxNNeK5o13a9C6TC8</a></p> <p>The display of the Anet A8 now shows white blocks.</p> <p>Any hints as to what could be wrong?</p> <p><strong>Update 1:</strong> The clicking sound is actually the blower powering up and then going off immediately after.</p> <p><strong>Update 2:</strong> I just did a blind flash to Marlin 1.18 and the firmware deployed successfully. Now, the boot sequence is almost 4 secs longer (previously, it was 3) and the clicking sound of the blower fan slowly spinning is replaced by a high spin-up of the blower. but after that, we are back to a dead printer with all whites.</p>

6485

White blocks on LCD screen after Anet A8 power up

<p>This is a known and <a href="https://www.gearbest.com/blog/how-to/solve-anet-a8-3d-printer-black-screen-white-square-problems-2140" rel="nofollow noreferrer">documented problem</a> of this printer. I'm afraid your printer board is dead.</p> <p>If you have white squares on the display like this picture: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJwsv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJwsv.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <blockquote> <p>You need to check Anet A8's mainboard - click reset button and check the D1 indicator: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9i0dG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9i0dG.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <ul> <li><p>If D1 lights on for a second then went out and the screen is full of white square, try to reconnect screen wire for several times. When it's well connected, click the reset button. If still not working, you need to replace a screen.</p></li> <li><p>If the D1 indicator is always off and the screen is full of white square, you need to replace a mainboard.</p></li> </ul> </blockquote> <p>From the video you posted it can be seen that the D1 LED does not light up, it is off the whole time. Hence the main board is dead.</p>

2018-07-27T23:27:12.887

|filament|extruder|pla|

<p><em>Context</em></p> <p>A while ago I bought a kit for a 3D printer, along with filament etc. however, after some weeks I ran into some mechanical problems and because I had a lot of other things to do at the time I put the project on hold.</p> <p>Now, almost a year later, I thought I would continue the project. I've got all the mechanical pieces back to work right now, but I have some questions concerning the filament.</p> <p><em>Main question</em></p> <p>Firstly, I have a nearly full roll of PLA still, but it has been left in a dusty attic for almost a year. I read <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1404/can-aged-pla-be-refurbished">here</a> that it could still be used if baked for a couple of hours at 50 degrees Celsius. Does anyone have experience with this? Can this be done in my regular oven that I also use for food without risk? </p> <p>Secondly, there is still some PLA stuck in the printhead. As this may have taken up moisture I fear it might expand and damage the printhead. Is this possible? How could I remove it?</p>

6488

Baking old PLA spool

<p><strong>Oven drying PLA</strong></p> <p>Heating filament below the transition temperature of the filament should not be unsafe when using that oven later for cooking food. You need the temperature to stay under the glass transition temperature of PLA so that the filament doesn't deform. Depending on the PLA filament, you should use the very lowest temperature your oven will be able to handle. Temperatures around 40 ℃ to 50 ℃ would be fine to leave the filament in for periods of 3 to 6 hours. Even at this temp your PLA will soften anyways at elevated temperatures, oven drying PLA not necessarily will give you good results. It is therefore of prime importance to store at least PLA (and nylon) in airtight containers with bags of desiccants. </p> <p><strong>Stuck PLA</strong></p> <p>Moisture will not travel that far into the hotend, so changes are minimal that expanding filament has already damaged your hotend. Just heat up the nozzle and push the filament in by hand, put off the heat and pull the filament out fast. Heat up again and insert some fresh filament. Note that moisture in filament breaks the large polymer molecules, so even after drying you are left with brittle filament. Personally this has caused few of my prints to fail as the filament string broke a couple of times during prints (just snapped before the Ultimaker 3 extruder feeder); this was experienced with 2.85 mm filament on small diameter spools (about 20 cm in diameter).</p>

2018-07-29T15:48:39.010

|marlin|anet-a6|

<p>I had a Z probe installed but the wires came out of the header so I am trying to use software endstops, but any time I <code>G28</code> the nozzle will always ram into the bed. I am using Marlin Firmware. Which I am relatively new with. I'm used to having hardware endstops, but,</p> <p><strong>I don't have a hardware endstop currently (no probe/no switch).</strong> </p> <ul> <li><p>Is it possible to do this with software? </p></li> <li><p>I took out <code>G28</code>/<code>G29</code> in my G-code and it shows that it is going to z0.2 and working upward (but it still hits the bed). If the bed is level do I need a <code>G28</code>?</p></li> <li><p>Should Z probe offset be 0?</p></li> </ul> <pre> #define USE_XMIN_PLUG #define USE_YMIN_PLUG #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG #if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS) // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE #endif #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe. // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. #define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE #define PROBE_MANUALLY #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 1 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle] #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle] #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3.4 #define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2 #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 0 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 3 // Z Clearance between probe points // For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20 #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20 #define INVERT_Z_DIR true #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS) //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y #define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z #endif #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0 #define Z_SAFE_HOMING #if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING) #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28). #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28). #endif </pre>

6495

Anet A6 Z-axis min endstop not triggering

<p>The <a href="https://www.elektor.com/downloads/dl/file/id/1606/installation_instruction_anet_a6_3d_printer.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A6 3D Printer Installation Instruction</a> shows that there is an endstop, part <code>2-7-2</code>, page 4, included in the kit:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AJmU.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Limit switches"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5AJmU.png" alt="Limit switches" title="Limit switches"></a></p> <p>It needs to be fitted as shown on page 8:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uybcV.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Image showing Z-axis minimum stop"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uybcV.png" alt="Image showing Z-axis minimum stop" title="Image showing Z-axis minimum stop"></a></p> <p>Page 36 shows the correct length of the wires, which should prevent the wires being pulled out of the sensors/switches:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/my8Gp.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Wire lengths"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/my8Gp.png" alt="Wire lengths" title="Wire lengths"></a></p> <p>Page 38 shows where the Z-axis endstop is attached to the controller board:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRa3u.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Controller board connections"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRa3u.jpg" alt="Controller board connections" title="Controller board connections"></a></p> <p>To be fair, this assembly guide seems to be rather poor quality and after having looked through it a number of times I fail to see any actual instructions on how, or where <em>exactly</em>, to mount the Z-axis minimum endstop.</p>

2018-07-29T21:26:42.103

|z-axis|printer-building|lead-screw|

<p>Having just re-read <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack#answer-3528">Tom's excellent answer</a> to my question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack">Advantages of GT2 over a rack</a>, as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3527/advantages-of-gt2-over-a-rack#comment4831_3528">my comment</a> ponders¹:</p> <p><em>Why is a threaded rod, or lead screw, used for the Z-axis movement in a Prusa (and its derivatives) given the inherent problems relating to backlash?</em></p> <p>Indeed the majority of, if not all, delta printers generally use GT2 for the three vertical movements, presumably for this reason (of reduced backlash). Maybe cost and simplicity also play a part? I am purely speculating on these three reasons. The mass of the three vertical carriages and the associated carbon rods, would certainly seem to be a lot less than the mass of a cartesian X-axis gantry. </p> <p>Is it purely for reason of the mass of the X-axis gantry (especially if the extruder is mounted upon it - in a non-Bowden solution) that mechanical rods are used, as GT2 would not be able to lift the weight, without stretching (both over time and flexing slight upon each movement)? If so, then surely <em>wire reinforced GT2</em> could be used?</p> <p>As a potential aside, would another consideration be to compare the inertia of a GT2 solution to that of a threaded rod, leadscrew solution²?</p> <hr> <p>¹ I have a nagging worry that I have <em>already</em> asked this somewhere else, but after having spent the best part of a day looking for it and failing, I am asking here.</p> <p>² Although I am not entirely sure how that would be measured/compared, as one solution (leadscrew) is rotational, with a translation to linearal via the screw thread, and the other (GT2) is (effectively) fully rotational? I am going to ask about this particular point on SE.Mechanical Engineering, and will update this question as necessary.</p>

6498

Why not use GT2 en lieu of a Z-axis threaded rod or leadscrew?

<p>A lead screw can be fitted with a anti-backlash nut to get past your concern about backlash. Generally, backlash is not that of a problem considering the weight of the carriage (e.g. Prusa), or whole bed (e.g. CoreXY or Ultimaker). Certainly if you're not using Z-hop, the Z screw will only advance in a single direction!</p> <p>GT2 belts are always reinforced with fibres either glass, steel or some other fibre, all with their own (dis)advantages.</p> <p>As far as I have learned is that lead screws are far better capable of transporting higher loads at the cost of speed. Also, a leadscrew will have more resistance so that if you unpower the steppers, the gantry will not plummet to the bed.</p>

2018-07-31T07:54:46.837

|filament|

<p>High performance polymers are becoming available for specific applications.</p> <p>One of such materials is PEEK (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyether_ether_ketone" rel="noreferrer">PolyEther Ether Ketone</a>), a thermoplastic polymer in the polyaryletherketone (PAEK) family. PEEK competes with certain Aluminium alloys but is half the weight of Aluminium. For aerospace application this sounds very promising!</p> <p>NASA has <a href="https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20170000214.pdf" rel="noreferrer">shown</a> that printing these types of polymers is feasible using low-cost, open source hardware.</p> <p><strong>Does anybody know why the prices of PEEK are so high?</strong></p> <p>Depending on the supplier/manufacturer you're looking at about 700 - 900 Euro per kg.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqNar.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqNar.png" alt="Natural colored PEEK filament samples"></a></p>

6511

Why is PEEK filament so expensive?

<p><strong>Patents</strong> still seem to play a role as well.</p> <p>I was curious about this question and did a bit of research: If you filter the <a href="https://patents.google.com/?q=%22Polyether%20ether%20ketone%22&amp;country=US&amp;after=priority:20100101" rel="noreferrer">U.S. patents after 2010 mentioning PEEK</a> and its various applications and improvements, you still get roughly 10,000 patents. Those are not all primarily patents for PEEK, but still.</p> <p>Even <em>Victrex PLC</em>, formerly named <em><a href="https://drakeplastics.com/peek/" rel="noreferrer">Imperial Chemical Industries</a></em>, who filed the <a href="https://register.epo.org/application?number=EP78300314&amp;tab=main" rel="noreferrer">first patent for PEEK back in 1978</a>, had a <a href="https://patents.justia.com/patent/20160208045" rel="noreferrer">patent published in 2016</a> for a new PEEK production procedure:</p> <blockquote> <p>The process can be used to produce high quality, relatively light coloured polymers having a lower Tm than those produced using a standard PEEK process.</p> </blockquote>

2018-07-31T12:03:38.773

|sla|resin|t3d|

<p>I'm one of the lucky (??) Kickstarter supporters who received a T3D resin printer. This uses a proprietary (so far as I can tell) resin which cures under exposure to visible, rather than the usual UV, light. The manual is full of dire warnings about touching the resin, but no MSDS. Anyone know if there is a datasheet on their resin, or more generally, for light-curing resins in general?<br> (see <a href="http://myt3d.com/" rel="noreferrer">myt3d.com</a> for limited info on the machine and the resin)</p>

6513

Toxicity of Light-curing resin?

<p>While you probably cannot find an MSDS on the resin for your printer (yet), they are out there for other resin based printers. Here's a generic MSDS on one for Objet RGD515:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gG0bS.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gG0bS.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>It's not a pretty thing.</p> <p>To back this up, Fabbaloo has two articles out which talk about the toxicity of liquid resin which is light cured. I'm not <em>entirely</em> positive your resin falls into this arena, but would assume since they state in the handling instructions it's toxic, it's probably right along the same lines as the other toxic resins. Please note, in the article it states there are resins out which <em>aren't toxic</em>. They suggest one should handle all resins of this type as though they are toxic unless you have specific documentation which states otherwise.</p> <p><a href="http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2015/11/5/3d-printing-materials-toxicity-assessment-yes-toxic" rel="noreferrer">In one of the articles (Nov 2015)</a> quotes findings which were published by the University of California, Riverside. Their study focused on zebrafish embryos and the toxicity of two different 3D printed materials which are commonly used. The materials were Stratasys Dimension Elite (plastic extrusion) and Formlab’s Form 1+ (photo-cured resin). These printed samples were placed in zebrafish tanks to observe their effects on fish embryos and compare to “control” tanks without the samples.</p> <p>The University stated:</p> <blockquote> <p>While the embryos exposed to parts from the plastic-melting printer had slightly decreased average survival rates compared to control embryos, the embryos exposed to parts from the liquid-resin printer had significantly decreased survival rates, with more than half of the embryos dead by day three and all dead by day seven. And of the few zebrafish embryos that hatched after exposure to parts from the liquid-resin printer, 100 percent of the hatchlings had developmental abnormalities.</p> </blockquote> <p>Note: <a href="http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2016/4/20/the-two-dirty-secrets-of-resin-3d-printing" rel="noreferrer">Here is the second Fabbaloo article from April 2016.</a></p> <p>Fomrlabs has <a href="https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/#material-properties" rel="noreferrer">quite an extensive list of MSDS sheets</a> for their products. Their page states the following about their resin materials:</p> <blockquote> <p>Formlabs Standard resins are designed to be similar or safer to handle as other household chemicals or adhesives. When measuring potential acute health effects of inhalation or ingestion, there are no known significant effects or critical hazards. Eye contact may cause eye irritation. Skin contact may cause an allergic skin reaction. The safety data sheets (SDS) are up to date for every resin product and follow the latest government guidelines. Always consult the SDS as the primary source of information to understand safety and handling of Formlabs materials.</p> <p>Use chemical-resistant gloves - such as nitrile or neoprene; do not use latex - when handling liquid resin, including when removing printed parts from the printer. Exposure to resin in the liquid form can cause mild skin irritation for some people. If you get any on your skin, make sure to wash thoroughly with soap and water before moving on to other activities. Do not use solvents to wash hands, face, or any body parts. Wear gloves and use alcohol, followed by soap and water, to clean tools after handling resin.</p> </blockquote> <p>While this is not conclusive about your specific resin, like was stated, always treat the material as though it <em>is toxic</em> until documentation tells you otherwise. If all else fails, treat it as toxic and you can't go wrong.</p>

2018-08-01T05:50:15.653

|slicing|infill|

<p>I´ve have read an article to change different pattern depending on amount of layers, but my question is if is possible to have different infill in the same part? For example:</p> <ul> <li>Base: has the infill of 25&nbsp;% but the same base has some tabs for screws and mount the part for this area the infill need to be 40&nbsp;% or greater.</li> <li>The walls and forms: this has the same of the whole part and can be filled at 25&nbsp;% but some areas need to be filled at 15&nbsp;% or less.</li> </ul> <p>Probably someone has seen or reviewed another software to achieve this, or I'm fooling myself.</p>

6522

Different infill in the same part

<p>Using Cura 4.8</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEkYR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEkYR.png" alt="https://puu.sh/HuLkR/085842df24.png" /></a></p> <p>5% infill</p> <p>This is the <strong>Support Blocker</strong> button:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9lJO.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Support blocker button"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9lJO.png" alt="Support Blocker button" title="Support blocker button" /></a></p> <p>Drop anywhere on bed, then resize and move like any model, make sure to turn off uniform scaling</p> <p>With support blocker selected, then click the <strong>Mesh Type</strong> button:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ10p.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Mesh Type button"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ10p.png" alt="Mesh Type button" title="Mesh Type button" /></a></p> <ul> <li>Modify settings for overlaps</li> <li>Select settings</li> <li>Type infill in the search</li> <li>Select infill density</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LmCH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LmCH.png" alt="https://puu.sh/HuLAu/926ffa4208.png" /></a></p> <p>Infill density has now been changed to 100% for selected part only.</p>

2018-08-01T12:47:21.620

|electronics|creality-cr-10|creality-ender-3|

<p>Following on from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at/6521#comment9993_6521">What level of voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?</a></p> <p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at#answer-6521">Dave's answer</a> states that both 12&nbsp;V and 24&nbsp;V can be used on the controller board. It also goes on to say that the controller board is used in both configurations in two different printers:</p> <ul> <li>Ender 3 and;</li> <li>CR-10</li> </ul> <p>I would like to know how this dual voltage operation works:</p> <ul> <li>Does it use both voltages at the same time, or either one or the other? </li> <li>Are there two different electrical inlets or are they the same?</li> <li>Does it auto-detect or are there jumpers used to configure or are the components tolerant to both voltage levels? </li> </ul> <p>Also related:</p> <ul> <li>What is the board used? </li> <li>Is the board a proprietary design or a standard third party board? </li> <li>Does anyone have any photos of the board and/or schematics?</li> </ul>

6524

What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10?

<p>I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VrGx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VrGx.jpg" alt="Ender3 Power supply" /></a></p> <p>From power supply to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXc5B.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXc5B.jpg" alt="XT60 connector on Ender3" /></a></p> <p>The board itself is a proprietary design and labeled as &quot;V1.1.2&quot;. The Voltage in is the lowest input on the left: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQBpB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQBpB.jpg" alt="Creality3D V1.1.2" /></a></p> <p>The Cooling fan (blue-yellow wire), the hotend cooling fan, heater cartridge (white shielded), bed heater (left black-red), board cooling fan (middle red-black) run (in this setup) on 24V. The Logic connectors (black-black &amp; White-white) run 5V logic. I could not figure out the voltage of the stepper motors (upper row).</p> <p>I have not figured out how the power management circut works, but it achieves this:</p> <ul> <li>Supply voltage <span class="math-container">$ U_S = 12\ \text V \lor 24\ \text V $</span></li> <li>Logic Voltage <span class="math-container">$ U_L = 5\ \text V $</span></li> <li>Sensor Voltage <span class="math-container">$ U_{sens} = U_L$</span></li> <li>Hotend Cooling Fan <span class="math-container">$ U_{cool} = U_S$</span></li> <li>Hotend Heating Cartridge <span class="math-container">$ U_{hot} = U_S $</span></li> <li>Heatbed <span class="math-container">$ U_{bed} = U_S $</span></li> </ul> <p>The chip's caption can't be read on the photo, but it is labeled as &quot;Δ ATMEL // ATMEGA1284P // AU 1726&quot;</p> <p>For the pinout, a <a href="https://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">german maker</a> did determine, that it the configuration of a <a href="https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sanguino</a> equipped with an Atmega1284P 16Bit works for compiling firmware and flashing via a bootloader.</p>

2018-08-01T14:28:24.807

|print-material|safety|

<p>We know from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/183/11242">this answer</a>, 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:</p> <ul> <li>How much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing? </li> <li>Does the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/quality of the print?</li> </ul>

6525

Out-gassing of printed material when heated

<p>This is not an answer to your question, but it relates to outgassing so I am sharing it here. </p> <p>I have used the acetone vapor method of smoothing the surface of ABS prints. It works really well, and the surface becomes much smoother and glassy. I printed a large coffee mug (lets, for the moment, ignore food safety issues) and made it very smooth.</p> <p>After a couple of weeks to allow the acetone to fully evaporate, I poured a nice, hot cup of tea. Unfortunately, the acetone had not fully left the print, and the surface was immediately covered with dozens of bubbles as the acetone evaporated and pushed against the ABS.</p> <p>This effect was only because of the acetone. Another cup that had not been vapor smoothed worked perfectly and was unaffected by the hot water.</p> <p>I have not seen similar outgassing from PLA, ABS, Nylon, or PETG.</p> <p>If I may hazard an opinion about the substance of your question...</p> <p>I don't think that outgassing is the biggest contributor to the aging of prints and their properties changing. I suspect that (perhaps not in order) these are larger factors:</p> <ol> <li>exposure to UV light. UV light breaks polymer bonds and reduces the strength of plastic. </li> <li>absorption of water vapor, which can both expand the material which causes stress, and chemically break polymer bonds.</li> <li>long-term crystallization of the material</li> <li>fatigue from repeated sub-failure stress</li> </ol> <p>NASA used to have resources that spoke to outgassing rates related to suitability for space applications.</p>

2018-08-02T12:25:20.660

|marlin|ramps-1.4|octoprint|print-fan|

<p>I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin. With Marlin, you can control a large number of fans with the <code>M106 P&lt;fan index&gt;</code> command. I'd like RAMPS to control some additional fans, independent of layer fan. Are there free pins on RAMPS 1.4 to do that? Otherwise, could I setup the RAMPS board to send a command to a separate Arduino? I also have Octoprint if that makes it easier.</p>

6535

Controlling more fans with RAMPS board

<p>From the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">sources of Marlin</a> you can find how may fans you can use, even if you're not a coder it should be doable. From there you can find how to set the pins for the fans, provided that there are free unused and exposed (so that you do not have so solder directly to the microprocessor). First find how many fans are possible.</p> <p>Starting in <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/ed86550061ab94f10dd1d310c994bd74db582740/Marlin/Marlin_main.cpp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin_main.cpp</a> and searching for <code>106</code> (or <code>106</code> on the Marlin GitHub website) will lead you to the sources of the execution of the <code>M106</code> command. Below a snippet of <code>M106</code> and <code>M107</code> is shown. The reason for <code>M107</code> to be there becomes clear later.</p> <pre> #if FAN_COUNT &gt; 0 /** * M106: Set Fan Speed * * S&lt;int&gt; Speed between 0-255 * P&lt;index&gt; Fan index, if more than one fan * * With EXTRA_FAN_SPEED enabled: * * T&lt;int&gt; Restore/Use/Set Temporary Speed: * 1 = Restore previous speed after T2 * 2 = Use temporary speed set with T3-255 * 3-255 = Set the speed for use with T2 */ inline void gcode_M106() { const uint8_t p = parser.byteval('P'); if (p &lt; FAN_COUNT) { #if ENABLED(EXTRA_FAN_SPEED) const int16_t t = parser.intval('T'); if (t &gt; 0) { switch (t) { case 1: fanSpeeds[p] = old_fanSpeeds[p]; break; case 2: old_fanSpeeds[p] = fanSpeeds[p]; fanSpeeds[p] = new_fanSpeeds[p]; break; default: new_fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(t, 255); break; } return; } #endif // EXTRA_FAN_SPEED const uint16_t s = parser.ushortval('S', 255); fanSpeeds[p] = MIN(s, 255U); } } /** * M107: Fan Off */ inline void gcode_M107() { const uint16_t p = parser.ushortval('P'); if (p &lt; FAN_COUNT) fanSpeeds[p] = 0; } #endif // FAN_COUNT &gt; 0 </pre> <p>Looking at this code, the first thing (actually the first line, <code>#if FAN_COUNT &gt; 0</code>, already hints to that) that catches your attention is constant <code>FAN_COUNT</code>. Apparently the software knows how much fans are defined! Interesting! How does it know that! This piece of code ends just after handling the <code>M107</code> command (line <code>#endif // FAN_COUNT &gt; 0</code>), hence it is displayed here.</p> <p>Continuing the search by finding how <code>FAN_COUNT</code> is set (using the search on GitHub for the Marlin repository) leads to file <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/ed86550061ab94f10dd1d310c994bd74db582740/Marlin/Conditionals_post.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Conditionals_post.h</a>. An interesting part is:</p> <pre> /** * Up to 3 PWM fans */ #if HAS_FAN2 #define FAN_COUNT 3 #elif HAS_FAN1 #define FAN_COUNT 2 #elif HAS_FAN0 #define FAN_COUNT 1 #else #define FAN_COUNT 0 #endif </pre> <p>So depending on <code>HAS_FANx</code> (where x denotes 0, 1 or 2) you can have multiple fans, up to 3 in total! Cool, learned something in the process. :)</p> <p>Let's now search for <code>HAS_FANx</code>; in the same file you will find:</p> <pre> // Other fans #define HAS_FAN0 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN)) #define HAS_FAN1 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN1) && CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN && E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN1_PIN) #define HAS_FAN2 (PIN_EXISTS(FAN2) && CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E1_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E2_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN && E3_AUTO_FAN_PIN != FAN2_PIN) </pre> <p>Now we are getting into clear water! This codes hints to <code>FAN1_PIN</code> and <code>FAN2_PIN</code>. If you look into you pin layout file, e.g. <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pins_RAMPS.h</a> you see that that are the pin constants that need to be defined, actually <code>FAN1_PIN</code> is e.g. set if you choose an "EFF" configuration (Hotend, Fan0, Fan1), e.g. <code>#define FAN1_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN</code>.</p> <p>What is left for you to do is find an unused pin of your micro-controller and set the <code>FAN2_PIN</code> with <code>#define FAN2_PIN &lt;a free pin number&gt;</code>.</p> <p>E.g. pin 4 is not a used pin number (and an analog output pin). Don't forget that the pin you choose cannot directly run a fan, it should be used to schedule a MOSFET.</p> <p>Note that a dual external fan header <a href="http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Reprap_Ramps1.4_RRD_Fan_Extender" rel="nofollow noreferrer">"Reprap Ramps1.4 RRD Fan Extender"</a> exists, this describes using the D6 and D11 pins. Further investigation led to a 3D.SE posting using this fan header: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/5220/5740">"How to configure Marlin to enable auto-fans with dual extruder"</a>.</p>

2018-08-03T19:42:13.433

|pla|monoprice-maker-select|

<p>I have been having a problem with stringing on my 3D printer, so initially I <strong>increased retraction distance from 6.5&nbsp;mm to 8&nbsp;mm.</strong> Then I tried again, with the same issue, so I <strong>increased retraction speed and lowered the extruder temperature.</strong> Same problem. Over and over. After I did each of these, I have since <strong>decreased move speed, increased minimum layer time, put fan on full blast</strong>, and nothing has seemed to increase print quality. </p> <p>I realize this is a lot of alterations to be making, but I'm not sure what to do next. I am using 1.75&nbsp;mm PLA and a Monoprice Select V2.</p>

6541

How to eliminate stringing and regulate flow rate?

<p>Stringing can be fought by increasing the retraction length, but 6.5 mm (the default in Ultimaker Cura) is already pretty much. Please do note that too much retraction can lead to sucking air into the nozzle, which can lead to air pockets/holes.</p> <p>Basically there are 3 mechanisms that are in play:</p> <ul> <li>Retraction</li> <li>Temperature</li> <li>Speed</li> </ul> <p>You have tried changing multiple parameters already. You may have better luck in reducing the temperature of the nozzle even further, start with a decrease of 5 &deg;C. All that is left to do is increasing the travel speed.</p> <p>There are many <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=stringing&amp;dwh=65b64b59ba5f5d" rel="nofollow noreferrer">stringing test prints</a> to print to fine tune stringing.</p>

2018-08-04T10:56:57.320

|history|

<p>I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.</p> <p>By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the &lt;€300 price range, as price-reduced clones of designs which had already seen several iterations.</p> <p>Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines (as opposed to the >€2000 semi-professional lab budget prototyping class), or were the earlier iterations of these kit machines also suitable/adopted by hobbyists?</p> <p>I realise that early popularity would grow exponentially, but I'm thinking particularly at what point people could build a printer without needing to compile their own firmware, solder any boards, etc.</p>

6546

When did mass produced FDM printers become available?

<p>The Makerbot Replicator was released in 2012 and was the first 3D consumer-level printer that was sold only as a complete unit, not a kit. They were also well funded and had a famous Maker-Person as a founder. This seemed to coincide with wide-scale coverage of 3D printing in the media, and a big boom in the DIY side of the movement which is continuing to this day.</p> <p>The unit was still expensive by many standards (US$2500), but it did solve the bootstrap problem... you could just buy one at a store, instead of having to have a specific knowledge set in order to build one.</p>

2018-08-05T00:21:28.250

|print-quality|fdm|

<p>I'm printing PLA with the Creality Ender 2 and my print comes out totally fine with the exception of the first layer.</p> <p>Here's the weird part though, if I place a raft or a brim below/around the print - the raft or brim will print perfectly cleanly. Even on a raft though, the very first layer of the actual print comes out ugly, as seen in the photo below, but the raft itself will be perfectly printed.</p> <p>Following that first ugly layer of the actual print, the rest of the print will be 100% clean. This happens consistently every time I print any object.</p> <p>The perfectly printed raft can be seen on the right and the ugly first layer that printed on top of that raft can be seen on the left. Be sure to click the image to see the details of what I mean.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Kem.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Ugly first layer and raft"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Kem.jpg" alt="Ugly first layer and raft" title="Ugly first layer and raft"></a></p>

6554

First layer of print comes out poorly even when placed on a raft (which prints fine)

<p>Turns out it had to do with the nature of the small holes that I was printing. I had to slow the speed of the initial layer down from 25mm/s to 15mm/s and also set Cura to 'optimize wall printing order' so that it didn't jump back and forth between holes constantly. </p> <p>I also sped up the travel speed to 50mm/s on the initial layer to minimize oozing (although I'm not sure this actually did anything). Print came out beautifully.</p> <p>Didn't even need the raft.</p>

2018-08-06T20:53:31.277

|heated-bed|bed-leveling|glass-bed|

<p>I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is. </p> <p>It appears the glass is slightly "dished" in the center from one side and "raised" in the center on the other side. I am wondering if this is a sign of a defective glass, or if it is likely that the glass may change shape slightly as it is heated?</p> <p>If it does change shape, should it be put with the dish side up or down? </p> <p>Logic would say that if it does change shape, the bottom would probably get hotter since it is against the heater while the top is slightly cooler, so in theory the bottom may expand more "pulling" the center down?</p> <p>I guess the bottom line is, should I send the glass back as defective or wait until the printer arrives and see what happens when I heat it up?</p>

6572

Will a glass bed warp as it is heated?

<p>Yes, glass will warp. Think about it this way: the edges cannot be as hot as the centre if you use uniform heating, because they lose heat more quickly.</p> <p>If the edges are colder, they are also shorter than the hotter centre, which expands more.</p> <p>If the centre is longer than the edges, it will bend to accommodate the extra length.</p> <p>You can solve it by placing extra heating along the edges. Once you heat the edges more than the centre, the edges will pull apart the centre, which will result in a flat centre. However, the edges will deform as well, you need just a bit of stretch of the centre, but not so much that it pulls the edges back.</p>

2018-08-07T03:32:37.460

|ultimaker-cura|

<p>Let's say I'm modeling a simple open-top rectangular box to slice via Cura for printing. Normally I would set up a solid box of the size I want in the modeler, and then subtract a slightly smaller box to create the final result.</p> <ul> <li>Is it possible to get the same results with Cura by instead only modeling the simpler solid box if set my wall lines and thickness for the base and sides, set the infill to 0&nbsp;%, and then set the <em>Top Layers</em> to 0 and/or <em>Top Thickness</em> to 0&nbsp;mm? </li> <li>How might that change the resulting print? </li> <li>How will that impact the total height of the print?</li> </ul>

6574

Can I use a 0 mm top layer thickness in Ultimaker Cura to create an open box?

<p>Yes that will work in Ultimaker Cura exactly as you say.</p> <p>So if you have a solid model of a cube, you select wall thickness, bottom thickness, 0 % infill, and no top layers or top layer size of 0 mm. You will then end up with a box without a top layer, but with walls reaching up to the height of your model.</p>

2018-08-07T05:51:29.623

|reprap|

<p>I've been watching this video <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong</a> and at the start (at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&amp;t=30" rel="nofollow noreferrer">0:30</a>) three of the first Reprap printers are mentioned (and shown): </p> <ul> <li>Darwin;</li> <li>Prusa Mendel, and;</li> <li>what sounds to be "Cells".</li> </ul> <p>Here is a screenshot:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/D2DaA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RepRap Cells"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/D2DaA.jpg" alt="RepRap Cells" title="RepRap Cells"></a></p> <p>which, to me, looks like a Mendel.</p> <p>However, after having looked at:</p> <ul> <li>RepRapWiki - <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap project</a>, and;</li> <li>All3DP - <a href="https://all3dp.com/history-of-the-reprap-project/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Official History of the RepRap Project</a></li> </ul> <p>... I can not see the "Cells" printer listed or mentioned. </p> <p>Am I hearing it correctly?</p> <p>Or is it "Sells", in reference to Edward Sells, one of the four authors of <a href="https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/robotica/article/reprap-the-replicating-rapid-prototyper/5979FD7B0C066CBCE43EEAD869E871AA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap – the replicating rapid prototyper</a>? However, this paper only mentions/shows the Darwin and Mendel printers.</p>

6577

What printer is this?

<p>Yes, it is a "Sells Mendel" in reference to Edward Sells. As noted on the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap wiki</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Ed Sells, a student of Dr. Adrian Bowyer, designed and built the first Mendel printer, sometimes called a "Sells Mendel" to distinguish the original design from later tweaks.</p> </blockquote>

2018-08-07T14:58:32.433

|filament|

<p>Recently, I have heard people talking about masterspool, when talking about 3D printing filament.</p> <ul> <li>What <em>exactly</em> is master spool?</li> <li>Where did the idea come from and when?</li> <li>Is it being widely adopted? Or to be specific, how many distributors/manufacturers have adopted this already, and is it gaining traction?</li> <li><strike>Is this something that I should get excited by?</strike></li> <li><strike>If so, why is it such a good idea?</strike></li> </ul>

6586

What is a masterspool?

<p>One key difference between a 'masterspool' and any old spare empty reel you have left over is that the masterspool is a 2-part design which can be fitted over an existing roll of filament without needing to un-spool and re-spool the whole roll.</p> <p>The idea being that filament can be packaged and secured for shipment (with cable ties or the like) without needing to include a whole spool every time. The end user can buy/print only as many spools as they need.</p> <p>This concept also allows for 'extra' features to be included in the spool (such as retention for loose ends) without these features being wasted on every discarded spool.</p>

2018-08-08T18:04:20.210

|ultimaker-cura|infill|

<p>Looking in the Cura interface, I can set any whole number 0-100 for the infill percentage. Does Cura have an algorithm to calculate a pattern for any of those possible values, or does it have a few patterns where it selects the closest one?</p>

6602

Does Cura have an algorithm for any infill percentage or does it just have specific patterns?

<p>Infill serves two main purposes. These don't seem to map particularly well to the available controls.</p> <p><strong>Adding strength to the part</strong> The more plastic your part has inside, the stronger it will be. At least, that is the simplistic assumption. In fact, it seems that infill is not a particularly effective way of strengthening a part (compared for example with thicker walls and structural design features). What is apparent is that some infill patterns are stronger in certain directions, some are more isotropic, and some are just weak.</p> <p><strong>Supporting upper layers</strong> Without infill, any top faces on a model will involve bridging, so there is a trade-off between infill density, the number of top layers, and the quality of the top surface of your print. To reflect this function, slicers allow you to incrementally increase the infill density as you approach a top surface. This is particularly useful in a model that has a large inner void which does not otherwise need to be filled.</p> <p>In addition to affecting the infill strength, adjusting the infill pattern can influence the points at which infill connects to the walls. For complex shapes this might affect how successful the print is. There are also other parameters which you can adjust (overlap, orientation).</p> <p>The 'best' infill settings are influenced by the requirements of infill, and the 'success' metric does not appear to have a sharp response that would be useful in performing an optimisation.</p>

2018-08-08T20:32:58.603

|3d-models|software|calibration|

<p>I've just bought <strong>Anycubic i3 Mega</strong> printer and trying to level it. So far I've printed test object and 2 others but looks like there are problems with leveling.</p> <p>I want to make image of 5 small one layer squares(one in each corner and one in center). Looking for recommendations of <strong>simple</strong> software/tutorials/approaches to do it. I tried zbrush but found that it kind of complicated.</p>

6606

Recommend simple software to create calibration print for table leveling

<p>One of the most accessible modelling tools has to be <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tinkercad</a>. Everything is done in the browser, and it even works (to an extent) on a tablet. </p> <p>I wouldn't recommend getting too attached to it, since it is fairly limited. As an introduction to modeling in 3D, and some of the spatial concepts that you will need to get used to, it works very well.</p>

2018-08-09T19:22:11.633

|bowden|

<p>I came across this suggestion on the klipper github, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/</a>. In order to reduce the stretching in the bowden tube you can add fiberglass packaging tape lengthwise along the tube. This would decrease the elasticity while still allowing the plastic filament to run through it. Allowing you to reduce the retraction length and have better control over the amount of plastic being extruded.</p> <p>Is there any reasons that this would not work or actually decrease the performance of the bowden tube? </p>

6618

Would adding fiberglass packaging tape to a bowden tube be beneficial?

<p>The <a href="http://La%20solution%20propos%C3%A9e%20dans%20la%20revendication%201%20de%20la%20pr%C3%A9sente%20demande%20ne%20peut%20%C3%AAtre%20consid%C3%A9r%C3%A9e%20comme%20impliquant%20une%20activit%C3%A9%20inventive%20pour%20les%20motifs%20suivants:%2050%20Ohm%20repr%C3%A9sente%20la%20valeur%20ordinaire%20de%20l&#39;imp%C3%A9dance%20des%20dispositifs%20de%20mesure,%20voir%20D3%20[alin%C3%A9a%2083].%20L&#39;homme%20du%20m%C3%A9tier%20utiliserait%20cette%20valeur%20sans%20faire%20preuve%20d&#39;esprit%20inventif." rel="nofollow noreferrer">Young modulus</a> of <a href="https://www.designerdata.nl/plastics/thermo+plastics/PTFE?cookie=YES" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PTFE</a> is about 500&nbsp;MPa and the surface of a PTFE tube for 1.75&nbsp;mm filament is about 9.4&nbsp;mm².</p> <p>The Young modulus of <a href="https://aip.scitation.org/doi/pdf/10.1063/1.4918424" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PLA</a> is variable, between 350 and 2800&nbsp;MPa, let's say 2000&nbsp;MPa. The filament surface is 2.4&nbsp;mm².</p> <p>The ratio is about 1 because the surface ratio is 4x and the Young's modulus ratio 1/4x. As result, the stretching of PTFE is about similar to the compression of PLA inside it (of course they sum, since they go in opposite directions). PLA is very stiff: other materials will compress much more and make the stretching of PTFE less relevant.</p> <p>However the filament is thinner than the tube, so it will curl a bit, which increases its contraction much more! It is likely that even for PLA the stretching of the PTFE is much less relevant than the compression of the filament.</p> <p>Anyway, <a href="https://www.azom.com/properties.aspx?ArticleID=764" rel="nofollow noreferrer">fiberglass</a> has a Young's modulus of about 80&nbsp;GPa (150 times PTFE), but its thickness is what? 0.1&nbsp;mm? That bring a surface of 2&nbsp;mm² at most (and I'm very optimistic, more likely much less than 1&nbsp;mm²). Fiberglass helps to strengthen PTFE by a factor of surely less than 30, more likely 10 or less (will the glue hold or slide?).</p> <p>As result, PTFE, from a contribution to the overall stretching/compression of 50&nbsp;% (in fact, much less due to curling), will be reduced to about 5&nbsp;%. It is good, but this is an optimistic value.</p>

2018-08-10T19:31:29.763

|nozzle|y-axis|creality-ender-3|

<p>I just received my new Creality Ender 3. I was going through and checking/adjusting everything for alignment, and I noticed that when you &quot;auto home&quot; the print head, the nozzle stops off the front of the print bed by 5-10 mm.</p> <p>Is that normal?</p> <p>Is it perhaps by design to allow purging the nozzle without dumping on the bed?</p> <p>It doesn't appear that there is any way to adjust the Y stop switch without making modifications to it. It also didn't look like there was any easy way to move the bed either.</p>

6624

Ender 3 nozzle homes off the bed in the Y axis

<p>It is intentional for the head to start slightly off the build plate. </p> <p>If it did start on the build plate you could crash the nozzle when the bed is not levelled. Note the level varies with temperature and build plate type. If you switch from PLA to ABS etc you should relevel the bed. </p> <p>Having just had the innaccurate z-end stop switch cause a deep gouge across my stock build plate, I strongly recommend getting an ABL (auto bed leveller). </p>

2018-08-11T12:10:56.980

|z-axis|extrusion|

<p>Recently I bought a Prusa i3 pro W (from Geeetech) and I've been struggling with something that is ruining all my printings. I attach a photo with what was supposed to be little "boxes":</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPctH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed cube print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPctH.jpg" alt="Controller display" title="Failed cube print"></a> </p> <p>As you can see the Z distance is doing weird things, I think may can be fixed through this configurations, as it seems the Z axis is moving too much:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCZqn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Controller display"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCZqn.jpg" alt="enter image description here" title="Controller display"></a></p> <p>On the other hand, the form the printer is doing the skirt is also bothering me, I've tried a lot of configurations and I think it's a problem of over extrusion, but I'm a newbie and I don't really know what more could I do...</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mFOw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Close up of failed print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0mFOw.jpg" alt="Close up of failed print" title="Close up of failed print"></a></p> <p>I'll really thank you for every answer because I've been a lot of days with this and I begin to feel really disappointed with all.. Thank you!</p>

6628

Problems with Z step

<ol> <li>as per base of the pink printout it looks like the bed is far below the nozzle (level the bed)</li> <li>to check the Z steps/mm setting, the best way will be to home it, then from menu move Z by 50mm and check with a ruler or meter traveled distance.</li> <li>then using a formula (requestedMove/measuredMove) * currentSteps set new value in to Z steps/mm setting. After that repeat the exercise until you will get no difference.</li> </ol>

2018-08-11T15:43:00.390

|g-code|cnc|

<p>For developing a CNC system, I am reading the "ISO 6983-1:2009". </p> <p>In it, there are several references to what they call "Detailed format classification" which I struggle to understand:</p> <blockquote> <p>A classification of the data in a block shall be used to specify the programming detail for a system and machine configuration. This is called the detailed format classification and is described in Annex C.</p> </blockquote> <p>...</p> <blockquote> <p>Zero omission shall be specified in the detailed format classification (see Annex C). </p> </blockquote> <p>...</p> <blockquote> <p>The number of digits shall be designated by the detailed format classification ( see Annex C).</p> </blockquote> <p>...</p> <p>It seem this "Detailed format classification" is sort of a definition of the machine on which the program will run. But in this case, I do not understand why this is something part of the program and not some values of the control system.</p> <p>My question is: What exactly is this "Detailed format classification"?</p> <ul> <li>Is it part of the program?</li> <li>What is it purpose?</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXEJv.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXEJv.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

6629

What is the "Detailed format classification" of the ISO 6983 (G-Code spec)

<p>This is simply the formalised definition of the syntax, so that a parser can be written to interpret any legal G-code. Without this, there is ambiguity - not in the general operation, but in the bounds of what is 'legal' and what should be rejected.</p> <p>Taking the example <code>X+053</code>, this is not a position of 53 units, it is:</p> <ul> <li>Address <code>X</code></li> <li>Sign is required (in this implementation)</li> <li>Leading zeros can be ommitted</li> <li>Up to 5 orders of magnitude before the decimal</li> <li>Up to 3 digits of precision after the decimal</li> </ul> <p>This means that X can range from +99999.999 to -99999.999 - an interpretation which matches the verbiage at the bottom of the page.</p> <p>As hinted at in the text, it is <em>possible</em> to use various fixed precision number systems (think using integer milimetres rather than decimal metres), and also to anchor at the most significant bit, so <code>001</code> could represent <code>00100.000</code>. It may help to remember that these specifications were designed in the days of dedicated hardware rather than general purpose computers, when the standard portable storage medium held ~600 kB, and relate to actual machines that had been developed long before that.</p>

2018-08-11T16:04:26.237

|marlin|stepper-driver|tmc2130|

<p>I have recently got an MKS GEN L V1.0 board and 5 TMC2130s. (X, Y, two Z, E). I have wired it all up and uploaded Marlin 1.1.9 and after some quick troubleshooting I got the motors moving. Next day I tried it again and it gave me this error: </p> <blockquote> <p>E0 driver error detected: overtemperature short to ground (coil A) short to ground (coil B)</p> </blockquote> <p>with the following driver debug report: (notice that the extruder driver doesn't show up)</p> <blockquote> <pre><code> X Y Z Enabled false false false Set current 800 800 800 RMS current 795 795 795 MAX current 1121 1121 1121 Run current 25/31 25/31 25/31 Hold current 12/31 12/31 12/31 CS actual 12/31 12/31 12/31 PWM scale 10 10 10 vsense 1=.18 1=.18 1=.18 stealthChop true true true msteps 16 16 16 tstep 1048575 1048575 1048575 pwm threshold 0 0 0 [mm/s] - - - OT prewarn false false false OT prewarn has been triggered false false false off time 5 5 5 blank time 24 24 24 hysteresis -end 2 2 2 -start 3 3 3 Stallguard thrs 8 8 0 DRVSTATUS X Y Z stallguard sg_result 0 0 0 fsactive stst X X X olb ola s2gb s2ga otpw ot Driver registers: X = 0x80:0C:00:00 Y = 0x80:0C:00:00 Z = 0x80:0C:00:00 </code></pre> </blockquote> <p>I did some research and found that you should change the CS pin for that stepper and so I did. I tried almost every available pin on my board but no luck. The only change I got was when I wired it to pin 11 and got this:</p> <blockquote> <p>E0 driver error detected: overtemperature short to ground (coil A)</p> </blockquote> <p>I have the Watterott TMC2130 SilentStep Sticks and have examined the board which seemed correct. Is all wired correctly. Tomorrow I will try to switch the driver to one from another axis and try to switch the stepper to see if anything changes, but it seems to me that it shouldn't since it worked for some time. </p>

6630

Short to ground error using TMC2130 stepper drivers

<p>I have fixed it. I tried uploading the bugfix version of Marlin and no luck. Then I noticed a loose jumper wire that connected the driver to the board and when re-installing it I noticed it didn't grip the pin that strongly and could be easily pulled off so I switched the wire and everything works now. Turns out that even jumper wires can have a bad connection. Hope this helps someone.</p>

2018-08-11T23:18:20.737

|electronics|part-identification|

<p>Am wondering if anybody knows what type of sensor this is (from a build plate).</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKUBa.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKUBa.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Perhaps a thermocoupler? The colouring of the wires seems to suggest it is not directional?</p> <p>Would like to know details so that I can make use of it in my own projects.</p>

6632

Identify temperature sensor

<p>It is quite likely not a thermocouple, but a thermistor:</p> <ul> <li><p>A thermocouple would look like a small blob of metal. The tip of your temperature sensor appears to be a glass bead, which is a commonly used way to encase thermistors.</p></li> <li><p>Thermocouples are polarized. The fact that the wiring is not "directional" suggests it is a thermistor.</p></li> <li><p>Thermocouples are used in high-temperature applications (such as a high-temperature hotend for printing specialty materials), where a thermistor would break down. The bed is not such a high-temperature application.</p></li> </ul> <p>You can easily verify this with a multimeter. If it was a thermocouple, its resistance would be near zero. With a thermistor, you should see a decent amount of resistance (most 3D printing thermistors are 100k at room temperature).</p>

2018-08-13T19:51:37.393

|firmware|

<p>Creality does offer its firmware on <a href="https://www.creality3d.cn/download/firmware_c0001" rel="noreferrer">creality3d.cn</a> as .hex files. These are pretty good as backups as one can't alter and destroy them by accident.</p> <p>But... How do you install them?!</p> <hr> <p>This is about installing firmware <em>directly</em> and <em>without</em> another microcontroller. To use another mictrocontroller is <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685">How to install new firmware via a Microcontroller?</a></p>

6654

How to install a .hex firmware?

<p>The Prusa i3 MK3 comes with <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slic3r, Prusa Edition</a>. It has a menu for flashing the firmware, which takes a HEX file as input.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5TEH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5TEH.png" alt="Slic3r screenshot"></a></p> <p>You can then select the HEX file. It will auto-detect the printer, if connected via USB.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQ9Lk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQ9Lk.png" alt="Screenshot firmware update details"></a></p>

2018-08-13T20:18:42.070

|firmware|repetier|arduino|

<p>Because <code>.hex</code> files can be installed without any need of an Arduino (serving as an ISP) to flash the firmware on Creality machines I was wondering, if firmware compiled via some other means (for example the <a href="https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Repetier firmware</a> or <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software#toc2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino</a>) could be exported as a <code>.hex</code> file.</p>

6657

Export firmware as a .hex

<h2>Current versions of Arduino IDE</h2> <p>Use the menu option in the Arduino IDE:</p> <p><strong>Sketch</strong> ► <strong>Export Compiled Binary</strong></p> <p>See <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.msg2445740#msg2445740" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post #6</a> from the thread <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to get hex file from arduino files ?</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Well, since it was bumped it's worth mentioning there is a new way to do this added in Arduino IDE 1.6.5:</p> <ul> <li>Sketch > Export Compiled Binary</li> <li>If you are doing this with an example then you will be prompted to save the sketch in another location.</li> <li>Wait until the sketch has finished compiling.</li> <li>Sketch > Show Sketch Folder</li> <li>The .hex file will be in the sketch folder</li> </ul> </blockquote> <p>Here is a screenshot for OS X:</p> <blockquote> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhdPn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Export compiled Binary menu option"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhdPn.png" alt="Export compiled Binary menu option" title="Export compiled Binary menu option"></a></p> </blockquote> <p>There is no need to fully compile, a simple verify will suffice. From <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.msg3118445#msg3118445" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post #10</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Reopen Arduino, and open a sketch of your choice (use the Examples->Digital->Blink if you have no other sketches). Hit the Verify button to compile the sketch. Now, navigate to the build.path folder. You should see a bunch of files including one with a .hex extension.</p> </blockquote> <hr> <h2>Older versions of Arduino IDE</h2> <p>If using an older version of the Arduino IDE, from <a href="https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=131655.msg3399334#msg3399334" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post #12</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Try this if using an older version of Arduino </p> <p><a href="http://arduinoisfun.blogspot.in/2016/01/taking-out-hex-file-from-arduino.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Taking out HEX file from Arduino in 3 simple steps</a></p> </blockquote> <ol> <li>Open Arduino IDE</li> <li><strong>File</strong> ► <strong>Preferences</strong> menu</li> </ol> <blockquote> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUgn2.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Arduino IDE Preferences menu"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUgn2.png" alt="Arduino IDE Preferences menu" title="Arduino IDE Preferences menu"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zd2te.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Arduino IDE Preferences dialog"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zd2te.jpg" alt="Arduino IDE Preferences dialog" title="Arduino IDE Preferences dialog"></a></p> </blockquote> <ol start="3"> <li>Find "Show verbose output during " and check the "compilation" box</li> <li>Locate the <code>preferences.txt</code> file and open it</li> <li><p>Add the following line (this is the path to the directory where the hexfile will be stored): </p> <pre><code>build.path=C:\Users\&lt;username&gt;\Desktop\hexfile </code></pre></li> <li><p>Change the following line</p> <pre><code>export.delete_target_folder=true </code></pre> <p>to </p> <pre><code>export.delete_target_folder=false </code></pre></li> <li><p>Quit the Arduino IDE and restart it.</p></li> <li>Now when you compile, the directory specified in <code>build.path</code> will contain the <code>.hex</code> file (along with other files which can be ignored)</li> </ol>

2018-08-13T20:44:29.197

|print-quality|build-plate|

<p>Up till now, I've tended to scale my first layer according to the print quality, so a 0.12&nbsp;mm first layer for a 0.08&nbsp;mm print, and 0.28&nbsp;mm for a 0.2&nbsp;mm print.</p> <p>After changing to a PLA which isn't sticking well, I'm wondering if the first layer is best determined by the printer/tolerance/material, rather than the overall print quality settings. Am I going to get more predictable results if I stick to a 0.12&nbsp;mm first layer regardless? This is with a 0.4&nbsp;mm nozzle on an Anet-A8.</p>

6659

Should I vary the first layer height

<p>Layer height in my cura settings means that head of extruder will be going up at 0.3mmm, and how i know that? Because i measure few different settings with height of bed. When I set bed to -0.2mm, ike everybody is proposing on internet, and i started printing first layer, I did stop it and measure with precise caliper thickness, it was 4.2mm, (human precision with leveling bed :P ) that was for me to much, because extruded material almost was not sticking to the bed,, and walls was not connected each other. I did test also with home position of nozzle and setting bed to touch nozzle, to 0 height. ( YEAH) And again I measure thickness of first layer. It was precise 0.3mm. Exactly as I want. That means that or I have better software witch can take nozzle up with initial layer in cura settings?, or magical printer, but my printer is cheap and is buy'ed almost by everybody. That means that peoples who are teaching others how to set bed in a printer are totally wrong. Maybe no one measure thickens of first layer? Even seller from who I buy printer propose me use paper with thickens of 0.25mm to set level of the bed.</p> <p>Previously I have problems with first layer, because that was too high from bed, now when I set 0 position of nozzle exactly with bed, I don't have problems with thickens of layer, and printed element looks allot better from bottom.</p>

2018-08-13T23:26:30.287

|printer-building|laser|

<p>I would love to start a small engraving business without having to purchase expensive hardware. </p> <p>Using scrap parts at home, or parts from broken CD players, are there any ways to make a laser engraver at home? My cousin managed to make one of his own from scraps.</p>

6661

How to build a cheap (but safe) laser engraver with spare parts

<p>If you do not have knowledge about the electronics then consider buying a cheap etching machine instead.</p> <h1>Build</h1> <p>Take a look on <a href="https://hackaday.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://hackaday.com/</a> and search for laser engravers.</p> <p>I have found following articles in few seconds:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://hackaday.com/2013/05/06/dvd-laser-diode-used-to-build-a-laser-engraver/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hackaday.com: DVD LASER DIODE USED TO BUILD A LASER ENGRAVER</a></li> <li><a href="https://hackaday.com/2016/03/14/laser-pcb-exposer-built-from-cd-rom-drives/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hackaday.com: LASER PCB EXPOSER BUILT FROM CD-ROM DRIVES</a></li> <li><a href="https://hackaday.com/2017/10/31/homebuilt-laser-engraver-using-salvaged-parts/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hackaday.com: HOMEBUILT LASER ENGRAVER USING SALVAGED PARTS</a></li> <li><a href="https://hackaday.com/2017/11/27/entry-level-3d-printer-becomes-budget-pcb-machine/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hackaday.com: ENTRY-LEVEL 3D PRINTER BECOMES BUDGET PCB MACHINE</a></li> </ul> <h1>Cheap laser engravers</h1> <p>And this one is about 2018 list of laser cutters/engravers: <a href="https://all3dp.com/1/best-home-desktop-laser-cutter-engraver-aio-machine/%20It%20lists%20machines%20around%20100$" rel="nofollow noreferrer">15 Best Laser Cutters, Laser Engravers &amp; AIO Machines of 2018</a>. It lists machines around 100$</p> <ul> <li>Meterk Laser Engraver ($125)</li> <li>NEJE DK-8-KZ ($70)</li> <li>QIILU Mini Laser Engraver ($130)</li> <li>SuperCarver K2 ($160)</li> </ul> <h1>Safety</h1> <p>Laser could damage your eyes (imagine laser reflection or if the machine falls from table when it's working). Take a look on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_safety" rel="nofollow noreferrer">wikipedia</a>.</p> <p>The best option is to use <em>acrylic cover</em> in same color as your laser, so you can observe the etching process and the laser beam is always blocked. For example take a look on orange cover of <a href="https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Formlabs Form 2</a> 3d printer (it uses laser for printing).</p> <p>Another protection is to wear <em>laser protection glasses</em>. Again the glasses must have same color as your laser. </p> <p>Using laser for cutting or engraving means to burn material away. You should have good ventilation in the room.</p> <p>Buy a <em>smoke detector</em> if you use cheap electronics with higher power consumption.</p>

2018-08-14T04:44:35.477

|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|

<p>I got my Ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Within a couple days of test prints, I was able to get it working pretty well. Prints looked great. However, I installed <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2959991" rel="noreferrer">a more permanent solution to my X-Gantry binding issues</a> and now print quality is down again.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5yjv.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5yjv.jpg" alt="Layer separation issues"></a></p> <p>The bottom .25" of the calibration part looks absolutely terrible, with hideous layer separation issues, while the upper .75" looks flawless. I have little idea what could be causing this issue.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5lab.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5lab.jpg" alt="Macro closeup on layer separation"></a></p> <p>The only possible failure mode I can think of is that the bed isn't the right distance from the print head, but even fiddling with the knobs doesn't yield any better print quality than the print on the right of the first image. What can I do?</p> <p>I slice with Cura and can make my profile available if it would be useful.</p>

6664

Strange layer separation issues on Ender 3

<p>I had a real problem with what I was poor bed adhesion and layer separation on my 6month old Ender 3 pro. this problem started all at once, I checked the bed height several times and layer height, temperatures etc still the problem was there. Then I noticed the filament guide pinch roller was at a slight angle and on further inspection the plastic arm on removal was fractured so instead of holding the filament against the toothed drive it was metal to metal causing a slip on the nozzle feed. I ordered a replacement aluminium feed roller kit at £6.99 the machine is working as it did when I first got it. So it’s worth removing the pinch arm and inspecting.</p>

2018-08-14T12:21:52.117

|nozzle|

<p>I recently purchased some glow-in-the-dark PLA filament (just "because"). Being new to 3D printing, I didn't realize you shouldn't run this type of filament through a standard brass nozzle and should replace it using a "wear resistant" type nozzle. This is true of carbon fiber type filament as well. </p> <p>My questions are:</p> <ul> <li>What types of nozzle material are considered "wear resistant" and are some materials better than others?</li> <li>Can I use this type of nozzle all the time (ie: are there any downsides for regular use)?</li> <li>What types of filament should you use a wear resistant nozzle with?</li> </ul>

6667

Wear resistant nozzles

<p>E3D have a <a href="https://e3d-online.com/blog/2015/09/09/is-carbon-killing-your-nozzle/" rel="noreferrer">blog post</a> on the subject of hardened nozzles. The common abrasive materials are carbon fibre, wood impregnated filament (or any other particulate fill), and some pigments. The blog describes that as little as 250g of the more abrasive filaments can wreck a brass nozzle.</p> <p>For wear resistance, different manufacturers will have different options. Stainless steel is a little harder than brass, and hardened steel is a big step forward. If you fancy spending more money, aluminium oxide (i.e. Ruby) <a href="http://olssonruby.com/faq/" rel="noreferrer">is an option</a>.</p> <p>The downside is printability and cost. Specifically thermal conductivity of brass (or copper) is very good when compared to steel. However, this may not be the limiting factor for your printing unless you're running a very large machine. The various materials may also give different friction/wetting performance which can affect jams.</p> <p>Depending on the printer and the type of hardened nozzle, it probably makes sense to avoid swapping between hardened and standard nozzles most of the time.</p> <p>Hardened nozzles cost between 3 and 20 times what you will pay for a branded brass nozzle (and arguably a bag of no-name brass nozzles can be treated as near enough free disposables in comparison).</p>

2018-08-14T23:55:20.540

|marlin|anet-a8|firmware|

<p>I have an Anet A8 that I just flashed with the latest Marlin firmware (1.1.9). I'm sending prints to my printer with Ultimaker Cura via OctoPrint.</p> <p>I have affixed a PEI surface to my bed that's about 10&nbsp;mm smaller in each direction than the full size of the bed (that is, I lose about 5&nbsp;mm on each side of the bed). This hasn't been a huge problem as usually I account for this myself and just make sure there's lots of room on each side of a print, but having upgraded my firmware, I'd like to take advantage of Marlin's bi-linear bed-levelling. Unfortunately, several of the points it chooses are outside the bounds of my PEI surface and so it's impossible to get a decent setting for those points.</p> <p>What's the "correct" way to configure Marlin to know that my bed size is actually smaller than it thinks it is? Do I need to additionally adjust settings in Ultimaker Cura and/or OctoPrint?</p>

6671

Setting custom x/y bed bounds for Anet A8/marlin

<p>As you just flashed your own Marlin, you probably have the <code>marlin.ino</code> and its associated files in the <strong>Arduino IDE</strong> set for your Processor and board and know how to work with them to some degree. This is <em>just the short version</em> <strong>where</strong> to find <strong>what</strong> you need to change the bed size, if the marlin.ino is based on the <strong><a href="http://marlinfw.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">marlinfw-release</a></strong>.</p> <h1>Changing &quot;home&quot;</h1> <p>In <code>Configuration.h</code> there should be a set of lines that reads akin to this:</p> <pre><code>// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE #define Z_MAX_POS 200 </code></pre> <p>Usually it is faster to use <code>Ctrl</code>+<code>F</code> and then typing in <code>X_MIN_POS</code> and adding the hook in front of <em>Search all Sketch Tabs</em> and then moving through all the finds till the right one pops up. This not only brings you right to the lines you want to alter, but also covers up the bases in case the distribution you work with did put the movement limits into a different location like <code>Configruration_adv.h</code>.</p> <h1>Changing Bed Size</h1> <p>Alter these minimum positions and make sure that the Maximum positions (usually just after them) to fit the maximum of the bed.</p> <p>If you reduced your bed size, you also might need to change <code>X_BED_SIZE</code> and <code>Y_BED_SIZE</code>, which (in the marlin.ino) is in the same <code>Configuration.h</code> - I found it to preceede the Travel limits:</p> <pre><code>// The size of the print bed #define X_BED_SIZE 200 #define Y_BED_SIZE 200 </code></pre> <p>Adjust these as needed to fit the new sizing.</p> <h1>Hint: Getting the Values for Adjusting</h1> <p>For finding the adjusted values, I have had good experiences using Repetier Host on <em>Manual Control</em> to move the nozzle (lifted 1mm to prevent any accidents) into the correct XY-position and taking this position as adjustments for the minimum positions. Finding your personal settings is a bit of a trial and error still, <em>so take your time</em>.</p> <h1>Finishing up</h1> <p>Now, recompile the marlin.ino (the checkmark in the top left) to check for errors and <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685/how-to-install-new-firmware-with-a-bootloader">flash the new firmware</a> it.</p>

2018-08-16T08:25:40.037

|firmware|

<p>While uploading <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware">.hex firmware directly</a> onto boards that allow this via CURA, this is not always an option for all machines (for lack of a functioning USB-connectable port for example).</p> <p>On both my TronXY X1 board (Melzi 2.0 V5 with <code>ATMEGA1284P</code>) and the Creality Ender 3 (Creality 3D v.1.1.2 with <code>Δ ATMEL ATMEGA1284P AU 1726</code>) I spotted these 6 pins labeled <code>ISP</code> that are supposed to allow to connect an Arduino or similar to flash firmware. According to the RepRap Wiki, Melzi is a derivative of the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Melzi" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sanguinololu</a> and both are <a href="https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sanguino Compatible</a>.</p> <p>After creating the new firmware in <strong>Arduino IDE</strong> and making sure it compiles for the correct chip in the board, how can I use an Arduino Uno or other microcontroller to flash the new firmware <strong>via the ISP</strong> to my printer?</p> <p>This is asking specifically about ATmega based controller boards, using the Arduino toolchain.</p>

6685

How to install new ATmega firmware via the ISP pins?

<p>Considering AVR based controller boards...</p> <p>You might not need an additional Arduino, to serve as an ISP. It really depends upon the board. There are basically three scenarios:</p> <ol> <li>Controller board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - <em>with</em> a bootloader</li> <li>Controller board which is Arduino based - Arduino Mega 2560 with a RAMPS 1.4 - <em>without</em> a bootloader</li> <li>Controller board which is AVR based board (no separate Arduino board) - as is the case with an Ender-3 and the TronXY board¹ - <em>without</em> a bootloader</li> </ol> <p>Option 1 is the easiest, and you simply upload with the USB cable, directly from the Arduino IDE.</p> <p>Options 2 and 3 is where you would require an In-circuit Serial Programmer (ISP). Such as a USBasp: <a href="https://www.fischl.de/usbasp/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">USBasp - USB programmer for Atmel AVR controllers</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ksElR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="USBasp"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ksElR.jpg" alt="USBasp" title="USBasp"></a></p> <p>or you can use another Arduino, see <a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Arduino as ISP and Arduino Bootloaders</a>.</p> <p>An ISP device basically converts the USB to TTL signals (along with a serial protocol (JTAG or derivative)) which then connects to the ICSP² interface on the controller board:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnPk8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="ICSP connector"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fnPk8.jpg" alt="ICSP connector" title="ICSP connector"></a></p> <h3>Scenario 1</h3> <p>As stated above, you simply connect the board to the PC/Mac using the USB cable and, within the Arduino IDE, you hit <strong>Upload</strong> - ensuring that you have the correct <strong>Board</strong> (i.e. Mega2560) and <strong>Port</strong> selected in the <strong>Tools</strong> menu.</p> <h3>Scenario 2</h3> <p>For the Mega2560 the pins the MOSI, MISO and SCK are broken out on to are:</p> <pre><code>Arduino / Genuino Board MOSI MISO SCK Level Mega1280 or Mega2560 51 or ICSP-4 50 or ICSP-1 52 or ICSP-3 5V </code></pre> <p>To program the Mega2560 using an Uno, connect as follows:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifLTz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Uno as ISP programming Mega"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifLTz.png" alt="Uno as ISP programming Mega" title="Uno as ISP programming Mega"></a></p> <p>or using the ISP connector (in this diagram the electrolytic capacitor³ is not shown):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFhfl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Uno as ISP programming Mega via ICSP connector"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gFhfl.png" alt="Uno as ISP programming Mega via ICSP connector" title="Uno as ISP programming Mega via ICSP connector"></a></p> <p>Take note of the electrolytic capacitor³ on the programming device:</p> <blockquote> <p>The 10&nbsp;µF electrolytic capacitor connected to RESET and GND of the programming board is needed only for the boards that have an interface between the microcontroller and the computer's USB, like Mega, Uno, Mini, Nano. Boards like Leonardo, Esplora and Micro, with the USB directly managed by the microcontroller, don't need the capacitor. </p> </blockquote> <p>or using the Mega's ICSP connector, from <a href="https://www.gammon.com.au/bootloader" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Atmega bootloader programmer</a> (see <a href="https://www.gammon.com.au/images/Arduino/Atmega_Chip_Detector9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">original image</a>):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PscDO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Uno programming a Mega"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PscDO.jpg" alt="Uno programming a Mega" title="Uno programming a Mega"></a></p> <p>Note D10 is used, not <code>RESET</code>⁴</p> <h3>Scenario 3</h3> <p>So, to use an Arduino Uno on your controller board, which is scenario 3 (an AVR based board, but not an Arduino board per se), you would need to connect the Uno to the ICSP of the controller board like this:</p> <pre><code>ICSP Uno MOSI D11 MISO D12 SCK D13 GND GND 5V 5V RESET D10 </code></pre> <p>or, like this, from <a href="http://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Chaos Drucker - CREALITY ENDER3 MIT MARLIN AUSSTATTEN</a> (see <a href="https://www.chaos-drucker.de/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Schemata-225x300.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">original image</a>):</p> <p><strong>There is an error in the image and the red line should go to <code>D10</code> and not <code>D9</code> as shown</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mq7zN.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mq7zN.png" alt="Uno to controller board connections"></a></p> <p>Note, again, that the <code>RESET</code> on the Arduino Uno's ISP connector is <strong>not</strong> used (and Pin 10 is used to connect to the controller's ICSP's <code>RESET</code> pin instead)⁴. </p> <h3>Configure the Arduino IDE</h3> <p>Then in the Arduino IDE you will need to select the Programmer to be used, in this case <em>Uno as an ISP</em>, like so:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywWQ3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Uno as an ISP"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywWQ3.jpg" alt="Uno as an ISP" title="Uno as an ISP"></a></p> <p>Once you have connected correctly, and selected the programmer, then you <em>should</em> be able to hit compile and upload as usual.</p> <hr> <h3>Footnotes</h3> <p>¹ Which <em>both</em> use the <em>same</em> board - see <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at#answer-6521">this answer</a> to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at">What voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?</a></p> <p>² In case you are wondering, see <a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/19130/whats-the-difference-between-icsp-vs-isp">What's the difference between ICSP vs ISP?</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The difference between ISP and ICSP is a hyphen.</p> <p>ISP stands for In-circuit Serial Programming, and ICSP stands for In Circuit Serial Programming.</p> <p>Any arrangement that allows you to program a microcontroller while it is in a circuit using a serial protocol can be called ISP or ICSP.</p> </blockquote> <p>See also <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Wikipedia - In-system programming</a>.</p> <p>³ See <a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/55498/when-using-an-arduino-as-an-isp-is-the-capacitor-required-or-not">When using an Arduino as an ISP, is the capacitor required or not?</a> </p> <p>⁴ Why? From <a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/1003/can-the-arduino-uno-become-an-avr-programmer-and-use-the-icsp-header-to-program">Can the Arduino Uno become an AVR programmer and use the ICSP header to program the target board</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>First of all, as configured, the RESET pin can not be used as an output pin. In order to use it as an I/O pin, you would have to program the RSTDISBL fuse. But once you do that, as jippie said, it becomes near-impossible to reprogram your Arduino (if you have the socketed through hole variety of the MCU, you could pull it out and put it into a high voltage programmer; in all other cases, it's effectively impossible).</p> <p>So in theory, you can use the ICSP header the way you suggest. In practice, it's under almost any conceivable circumstance a terrible idea.</p> </blockquote>

2018-08-21T08:19:49.693

|prusa-i3|calibration|extrusion|

<p>Most tutorials ask you to change the printer settings using the <code>The command M92 E420 will set the new value which can be saved to memory (so that it is available after a printer power off/on cycle) using M500.</code></p> <p>But I just want to modify the Extrusion Multiplier in Slic3r's settings. It's default at for each filament, and I'd like to modify this by adding a profile for each roll I have after calibration.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kIPm.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kIPm.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>What's the best way to do this? If I measure extruding 100mm and checking how much is left, what is the formula used to get the new EM value?</p>

6706

How can you calibrate extrusion multiplier value in Slic3r WITHOUT changing printer settings in memory?

<p>Divide the amount overextruded by the desired amount. If you wanted 100mm but got 101mm, that's 1mm extra, or 1% over. Use an extrusion multiplier of 0.99 (1% under) to compensate - AND THEN DO ANOTHER TEST to confirm.</p> <p>This modifier will be used by Slic3r to generate E values in your gcode without flashing anything. </p> <p>I recommend saving this recipe with an intuitive name, like <em>Acme Green PLA.</em></p>

2018-08-23T02:06:23.387

|diy-3d-printer|printer-building|

<p>So apparently the wiring in my home is... questionable. Very rarely, plugging or unplugging things will cause a power dip. This is almost always the result of turning on a fan or something, is only for a moment before coming back, but its long enough to cause my printer to reset. I want to add a backup battery supply using either the 12v cell pulled out of an old apc ups (before the suggestion of just plugging it into that... I did, somethings fried in it and it will ALSO power cycle everything connected to it every few hours) or an old car battery. Is there any reason I shouldn't use this circuit, which was originally intended for amateur radio equipment? <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jd7Sp.gif" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jd7Sp.gif" alt="battery backup circuit"></a></p> <p>Also is there anything else i should be considering?</p>

6715

Adding a battery backup power supply

<p>There are a couple of points to consider with this question. First, you will need to make sure the PSU is correctly adjusted to the float charge voltage of the 12V battery. SLA should be safe to float charge, but over voltage will damage it over time.</p> <p>One alternative solution (since powering the heaters will limit your run time) is to detect power failure, cut the heaters immediately, and save state to EEPROM in the firmware. This is the approach taken in the latest Prusa printers, and is a bit more complex, but might turn out to be more reliable.</p> <p>If the problem you are solving really is brown-outs, then a simpler solution might be to isolate the high current and control sides of the circuit. The MCU will be run from a regulated 5V or 3V3, so a large capacitor (with diode isolation) on that regulator's input would do the trick.</p>

2018-08-23T06:02:36.050

|pla|safety|health|

<p>I have an Ender 3 which I primarily use for printing with PLA. I haven't branched out to other materials yet. :)</p> <p>I've done <a href="https://3dprinthq.com/desktop-3d-printer-safety/" rel="noreferrer">some research into PLA fumes and airborne particulates</a> which seemed to mention that PLA is mostly safe, but ABS is rather dangerous to print without proper ventilation. However, I understand that there isn't much research on the topic and that there haven't been many studies.</p> <p>I have been keeping my printer in my bedroom, far isolated from flammable materials, which I sometimes leave on to print while I'm asleep. Should I be concerned with my health safety with respect to airborne particulates emitted by printing with PLA?</p> <p><strong>Other questions ask about ABS, but here, I'm asking specifically about PLA.</strong></p>

6716

Serious safety concerns with living in same room as PLA 3D Printer?

<p>Having asthma, I'm very sensitive to air quality and when i first started 3D printing i quickly noticed a sore throat, feeling out of breath, headaches and well the smell.</p> <p>One thing many beginners overlook is material oozing out of the extruder in places other than the nozzle itself. This causes a dirty extruder head which 'burns' that material and thus creating a ton of air pollution and a nasty smell. As a fix, i took my extruder head apart and reassembled it with PTFE tape on all the threads. The oozing and burned smell of material is now completely gone, my initial health issues have also gone away.</p> <p>This does not take away the fact that ultrafine particles are still being generated, but you will not notice this problem in an acute way. If you print daily use a fume extractor, your lungs cannot clean out this size of particles. The health effects will be similar as living near a busy street or highway.</p> <p>One last thing few people mention: cleaning up parts. When you file or sand down parts this creates a lot of very fine dust, and since plastics are electrostatic this becomes very hard to clean up. I now use an extraction fan whenever I'm cleaning up a printed part.</p>

2018-08-23T10:59:49.767

|print-quality|slicing|

<p>I've seen many references to a FDM print being weakest in the Z axis, due to poor bonding between layers compared to the extruded walls. </p> <p>Thinking about optimising this for a specific material (excluding temperature and geometry), is there an optimum layer height? It seems obvious that too thick a layer will give less compression and maybe less heat transfer into the layer below (so 0.3 with a 0.4mm nozzle might be expected to be a bit weak). Is there a single break point (i.e. less than half the nozzle is good), or are super fine layers either good or bad?</p> <p>I'm specifically using PLA at the moment, in case different materials have different behaviour in this respect.</p> <p>I am <strong>not</strong> asking how to model the strength of layer bonds or how to take that into account when designing a part.</p>

6722

Relation between layer height and bond strength

<p>Just adding another datapoint. CNCKitchen has a new <a href="https://youtu.be/fbSQvJJjw2Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">video</a> where he analyses this for cross layer and between layer tension. He also references some other research (which is rather inconclusive). He supports the coarse estimate of 'no more than 50% of the nozzle diameter, with performance also dropping at very low layer height.</p> <p>He found cross layer tension supported more than 2x the layer-to-layer tension (with a typical 3-wall, low infill pattern).</p>

2018-08-23T12:08:25.053

|pla|post-processing|knowledgebase|glue|

<p>I will be creating a small tube styled piece to use as a junction between two pieces of plastic. The idea is to reattach the two pieces and provide strength so they don't break apart again. I plan on using PLA.</p> <p>My question is, will superglue (cyanoacrylate) work best for this or are there better choices for attaching PLA to hard (injected molded) plastic? The big thing I'm wanting to make sure is if any of these glues will dissolve the PLA and whether some glues might bond better than others.</p>

6723

What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic?

<p><a href="https://www.3dgloop.com/shop/pla-gloop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PLA Gloop</a> is dedicated glue for PLA. It contains chloroform, so be careful.</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTtW_NXFMCY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Gloop! // 3D Printing Adhesive Spotlight</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQc5TBPF8uw" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!</a></li> </ul> <p>Additionally a PrusaPrinters guide: <a href="https://blog.prusaprinters.org/the-great-guide-to-gluing-and-assembling-3d-prints_44908/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Great Guide to Gluing and Assembling 3D Prints</a></p>

2018-08-23T21:30:56.073

|3d-design|knowledgebase|

<p>What are the 'headline' basic design rules for FDM? </p> <p>Which topics for design principles do you recommend to someone who has purchased an FDM machine and wants to understand what is practical? In other words, where is the place to start when you don't yet know what questions to ask?</p> <p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5215/3d-printing-references-for-beginner">This question</a> and its answer discuss design tools and the workflow but doesn't cover design rules.</p> <p>Design rules here meaning the principles of what is <strong>special</strong> about <strong>planning</strong> a design to be manufactured with an FDM process as opposed to traditional machining or a printing process like SLA, not the detailed/automated checks that would be applied to something like a PCB layout prior to sign-off.</p>

6726

What special considerations must be taken when designing parts for 3D printing?

<p>In a <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p62P1ZvTwCKK0TGZL7FKhxg-lZQLMe3Q/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">presentation</a>(pdf) that I've used as an introduction to 3D printing, I listed out the following points:</p> <ul> <li>Structures have to be built-up from the build platform, with only about 45° overhang (or small <strong>flat</strong> bridges). <ul> <li>supports can be added (generally automatically), but results can be variable.</li> <li>changing the print orientation can solve overhand problems.</li> </ul></li> <li>Infill is used partly to provide additional strength, and partly to support any roof parts. Generally a print will not be solid.</li> <li>Small parts in particular may need a brim to help with bed adhesion.</li> <li>Designs must be 'manifold' to be printable. Arguably this is part of the workflow, but it can be the cause of non-obvious failures.</li> </ul> <p>The other detail worth calling out is the precision of what can be printed with FDM, although the best case resolution is ~0.1mm, the overall accuracy will be closer to the nozzle diameter due to the way that extruded filament is squashed during the print.</p>

2018-08-24T09:48:06.743

|stepper-driver|motor|ultimaker-original|

<p>I recently upgraded my Ultimaker 1. The upgrade includes a different stepper motor for the Extruder, the same a Ultimaker 2+ would use. I plugged the new motor and nothing happened.</p> <p>To eliminate the problem I ordered a new PCB and stepper motor drivers, reassembled all electronics. For some reason the extruder does not move, and actually any other motor I plug into the extruder port doesn't either. I switched the driver, twice, but without a different result.</p> <p>Can anybody tell me what component could be faulty or how I can find the problem? Could it be the Arduino board, even when I use the Ulticontroller? Maybe remove one of the jumpers next to the driver?</p>

6727

Customized Ultimaker 1: Extruder motor does not move

<p>Did you heat the hotend before attempting to move the extruder? Most firmwares block cold extrusion. If you send the printer <code>M302</code> it will allow the extruder motor to move without the hotend being above the temperature set in the firmware. Jumpers next to drivers are used to set microstepping, no need to adjust these unless you changed to a different type of driver or want to use different microstepping. Changing them usually requires changing the steps in firmware as well. Also, swapping drivers or motors while the driver is powered can destroy it.</p>

2018-08-25T13:50:51.290

|maintenance|bearing|

<p>When I purchased my China made Anet A8 printer, it came with the ball bearing style linear bearings for the 8mm guide rods. While pulling parts out of the box and putting them together, I noticed several of the small ball bearings fell out of their respective holders. At the time, I really didn't know what to think of it (ie: were these just <em>extra</em> ball bearings falling out; were they actually needed). I put the printer together anyway and it seems to work okay.</p> <p>I have noticed while I've been printing, there's a lot of noise during travel of the pieces. I'm not exactly sure where the noise is coming from, but realize it has to be coming from one or more of the bearings. To hopefully fix the issue, I've purchased some Igus Drylin polymer bushings to replace the linear bearings:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dA0pj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dA0pj.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>My questions are:</p> <ul> <li>When installing these bushings, should they be completely dry?</li> <li>Should I at least clean the rods?</li> <li>Are they completely maintenance free?</li> <li>Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?</li> </ul>

6739

Replacing bearings with Drylin bushings

<p>In addition to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6741/5740">this answer</a> and addressing <code>Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about?</code> I would like to add that you should take care in installing the plastic bearings in suitable housings. It is best to lower the mass of the carriages by replacing the blocks and the bearings, there are a lot of printable bearing housings to find on the internet (e.g. Thingiverse). When installing plastic bearings, it is quite easy to get problems with bearings that bind, so take care when you install them and make sure the bearings do not bind (before you re-install the belt).</p>

2018-08-27T13:17:40.447

|filament|pla|extrusion|hotend|

<p>I sadly have a big problem since a couple of weeks and I cant fix it myself. For over 20 prints, I had the same problems: At the <strong>start, everything goes well</strong> but at some point of time, my Creality CR-10 starts <strong>under extruding and</strong> after like 1 minute, <strong>NO filament is extruded anymore</strong> and the 3D printer moves over the printing bed without extruding anything. After that, I have to pull out the filament and the feeder always grinds into it.</p> <p>Some problem with the hotend (so the feeder works well but it cant push the filament through somehow - I cleaned the nozzle and couldn't find anything wrong there. When I push the filament through by hand it gets extruded but after a failed print, it is <strong>VERY hard to pull it back</strong> (because of the filament being slightly bigger at the nozzle - hard to remove! - </p> <p><strong>That could be the problem:</strong></p> <p><strong>I just tried to remove the filament from the printer (another failed print) I had to use two tongs because the filament was so hard to pull back. I noticed that the diameter of the PLA close to the hotend was a lot bigger (way over 1.75&nbsp;mm) <em>For about 5&nbsp;cm</em> that's a very long distance - that's the reason why it's hard to pull back (and also push through?) But I don't know why that happens... If I get an answer for that, I think that I have solved my problem</strong></p> <p>I already tried printing at 50&nbsp;% which didn't work.</p> <ul> <li>Creality CR-10 with 0.4&nbsp;mm nozzle, </li> <li>1.75&nbsp;mm PLA filament used (white)</li> <li>0.27&nbsp;mm layer height</li> <li>45&nbsp;mm/s printing speed at 220° (I can easily push the filament through at 200° by hand)</li> <li>60° bed temp</li> </ul> <p>And here some pictures of the failed prints:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPB2n.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPB2n.jpg" alt="Failed print" title="Failed print"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mrw3I.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament grinding"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mrw3I.jpg" alt="Filament grinding" title="Filament grinding"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKJTQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Sorry for the bad resolution"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKJTQ.jpg" alt="Sorry for the bad resolution" title="Sorry for the bad resolution"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/54vPw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed print #2"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/54vPw.jpg" alt="Failed print #2" title="Failed print #2"></a></p> <p><strong>I think I can exclude these:</strong></p> <p>It could be: (the things I can imagine but don't have a solution for)</p> <ul> <li>The feeder being too strong/my new PLA filament being too soft</li> <li>Maybe a software problem? I'm using the newest Cura version and I don't know what could be wrong there.</li> </ul> <p>The filament seems to run out of the hotend. Something is really broken here. I tried to lower the print temperature and don't have an issue (at least not that big) with pulling out the filament but instead, the feeder started grinding into the filament again.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHT78.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament exiting nozzle"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHT78.jpg" alt="Filament exiting nozzle" title="Filament exiting nozzle"></a></p> <p>I'm very happy for any answer and possible solutions. </p>

6747

Constant under extrusion and filament grinding

<p>A 0.27 mm layer height is not correct for any printer, any nozzle/hotend, any file, and should never be used as a layer height variable for any FDM printer.</p> <p>Layer height should be a factor of the diameter of your nozzle size. i.e. Your nozzle is 0.4 mm, so depending on your printer, your range of resolutions/layer heights could start as low as 0.04 mm, but is monumentally more likely to begin at 0.08 or 0.12 mm, with a maximum value being 0.28 mm, and maybe 0.32 mm if you're doing some risky/experimental spiralized vase printing.</p>

2018-08-27T13:50:32.257

|bed-leveling|rafts|

<p>I get the concept of automatic bed leveling...the printer moves around the bed and uses a sensor to identify high and low spots, then "software compensates for differences". </p> <p>But what exactly does "compensates" mean? </p> <p>It is extruding more material in the low spots to build them up and thinning out the high spots? Is it adding or removing layers? Is it shifting layers as it goes up to compensate tilt? Or...? </p> <p>In what ways will this affect the final outcome? Would it be valid to say that if you wanted an automatically leveled bed and dimensional accuracy you should always print to a raft?</p>

6751

What exactly does automatic bed leveling do?

<p>Basically there are two problems to address: first - bed inclination and second - uneven bed surface.</p> <p>There are different algorithms dealing with one or both problems. Most specialists insist that bed should be flat and most people use glass as the top to achieve this. And this eliminates second problem and require to solve only the first one.</p> <p>To find bed inclination - autolevel algorithm usually do three points test and get transformation matrix. This matrix then used to transform XY motion to be parallel to the surface.</p> <p>For uneven bed surface more complex algorithms used. But usually bilinear mesh used that could be looked as the whole square surface subdivided into smaller ones with individual inclinations. Basically algorithm from XY coordinates determines the sub-square and then applies corresponded transformation for it's inclination.</p> <p>The transformation fade out with the Z going up and usually applied within first 10mm over the bed level.</p> <p>There is UBL (Universal Bed Leveling) algorithm that deals with two problems simultaneously. Only once it probes the whole bed with many points to produce two dimensional mesh to address second problem. And for each next auto level it does three points test to find the whole bed inclination. Then it combines measured inclination with the mesh information stored in memory. UBL assumes that surface do not change but only it's inclination could change.</p> <p>In all cases this is all about to guarantee that the first levels of filament will lay on the bed evenly and will stick to it.</p>

2018-08-27T16:48:01.473

|support-structures|

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNWsZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNWsZ.png" alt="extruded text on flat surface"></a></p> <p>Hey!</p> <p>Pretty new to all this. Wondering how you would approach this problem to have an extruded element on top of a flat surface. I want to avoid lots of support material (actually no support at all for a cleaner print and no work with sanding etc.) I intend to print this inverted in Z (i.e. text down) for the main structure.</p> <p>My only idea would be to print it separately and then glue it on. But maybe there is another solution that comes to your mind?</p> <p>Cheers!</p>

6755

How to print text upside down for minimal support when printing

<p>One way that I have solved that issue is by model it in openscad and embed the letters in the surface. then with my dual headed printer, print the letters in a different color. No support material is needed in that case.</p>

2018-08-27T21:02:10.920

|diy-3d-printer|nozzle|

<p>Are there any specific type of FDM 3D printers that I should look for?</p>

6760

Do all 3D printers allow the printing of flexible material?

<p>No. Not all 3D printers can print flexible material.</p> <p>The first place you will have trouble is in the extruder itself. Flexible filament will find any way to escape from the confines of the rollers and the guide tube. Any opening will allow the filament to buckle and find a new path. It is common to find that the filament has filled any gaps inside the extruder, and wrapped itself tightly around the drive roller.</p> <p>@0scar describes this in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6761/5740">his answer</a>. If the extruder does not have tight tolerances, with 1/4mm or less clearance between the drive roller on all sides, AND if there isn't a tube mated right up into the place where the filament is pressed between the drive roller and the idler, your extruder will fail to print Ninjaflex (a very flexible filament).</p> <p>Oscar also mentions that Bowden feed doesn't work well. It is fundamentally the same buckling problem. There is always a gap around the filament inside the Bowden tube. A stiff filament will rub at some points, but a soft filament will compress and ripple, filling the entire lumen inside the tube, and greatly increasing the friction. Higher friction means more extruder pressure, so more buckling, more friction, and more failure.</p> <p>Even if you are lucky and don't experience the run-away friction problem, the flexible filament is more compressible. With a Bowden feed system, that compression must be preloaded at the beginning of each extrusion movement and relieved for each retraction. With direct drive, the filament also compresses, but the amount of filament is much less, so the compression is less, and the problems are less.</p>

2018-08-27T22:30:49.547

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|slic3r|

<p>I'm trying to slice this model: <a href="https://www.shapeways.com/product/VVNUVZ6JL/dread-warrior?optionId=66361748&amp;li=user-profile" rel="noreferrer">https://www.shapeways.com/product/VVNUVZ6JL/dread-warrior?optionId=66361748&amp;li=user-profile</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdPE9.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LdPE9.png" alt="Original"></a></p> <p>I'm using a .4mm nozzle and .1mm layer height. When using slic3r some of the layers seem to just not get generated. You can see this on the horns. It also has some weird artifacts on the shield of the model. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRT6G.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRT6G.png" alt="Slic3r"></a></p> <p>I tried using Cura to slice the same model and while it does a better job for the horns it removes most of the face on the model.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kkl7h.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kkl7h.png" alt="Cura"></a></p> <p>Are there any slicer settings I can adjust to help fix these artifacts? Is there any other slicer out there that may fix the problems? Is this just a problem of needing to use a smaller nozzle and lower layer height?</p>

6762

Slicing problem - Slic3r prusa

<p>It's a nozzle size issue. The model contains a lot of details which is really challenging to print with a 0.4&nbsp;mm nozzle.</p> <p>A big nozzle is just not able to print such fine details. You should switch to 0.25&nbsp;mm or 0.15&nbsp;mm. Just try to set a smaller nozzle in your slicer.</p> <p>There is a nice article on Prusa's blog showing the difference in printing details with 0.4mm and 0.25mm: <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/everything-about-nozzles-with-a-different-diameter/" rel="noreferrer">EVERYTHING ABOUT NOZZLES WITH A DIFFERENT DIAMETER</a>, especially chapters <em>Examples of practical use</em> and <em>Printing miniatures</em>.</p> <p>See the difference:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/juRTb.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Business card in slicer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/juRTb.jpg" alt="Business card in slicer" title="Business card in slicer"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVd9Z.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Business card print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVd9Z.jpg" alt="Business card print" title="Business card print"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLaVF.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Pirate with sword"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLaVF.jpg" alt="Pirate with sword" title="Pirate with sword"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nAzv.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="Chest"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6nAzv.jpg" alt="Chest" title="Chest"></a></p>

2018-08-28T08:27:49.767

|firmware|desktop-printer|

<p>A couple weeks before, I bought a custom 3D printer that has an Ultimaker 2 motherboard in it. However, the dimensions of the printer is not same with Ultimaker 2 (X and Y same, a bit smaller on Z). The printer had tinkerfirmware installed in it. Today, I tried to print a premade .gcode file (Which was for another 3D printer I guess) and after pressing print, The machine told me the file will overwrite machine settings, and I pressed yes for it. After that, the dimensions of my 3D printer has changed in it's firmware. The bed is raising more than it should while starting calibrating, and not setting it's position precisely. (To make the 1mm gap, I had to move the bed down 4-5mm away from where it should be.) Now the question is, what can I do to fix this problem ? I also tried reinstalling original firmware which didn't really worked. (All the parts are orginal except the frame, which is a bit more smaller on height) How should I measure the height of printing area?</p>

6764

Custom 3D printer printing dimensions has changed because of a .gcode file

<p>Firmware <em>is</em> stored in EEPROM, and may contain some default values, but does not affect the <em>calibration</em> values which are stored in EEPROM.</p> <p>You should be able to reset the calibration to 'factory defaults', this actually means to take the defaults in the firmware and store them in EEPROM.</p> <p>Use <code>M502</code> to load firmware defaults into the current session. Use <code>M500</code> to write the settings from the current session into EEPROM.</p> <p>It is unusual for a design in gcode to include modifications to the settings, but maybe it was done to change acceleration or something similar.</p>

2018-08-29T16:45:04.900

|marlin|g-code|firmware|scripts|

<p>When running <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin Firmware</a>, is it possible to run <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G-code</a> scripts/series of commands automatically when you insert the SD card?</p> <hr> <p>I'm running Marlin on a 3D printer board using an ATmega 2560 based board with a reprap discount LCD controller with an SD card slot. I would like to do this without the need to add another computer/board, so native from the board running the Marlin Firmware.</p>

6778

Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?

<p>I don't know what you would like to achieve.</p> <p>As @typo mentioned there is similar functionality which triggers at printer startup: <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart</a></p> <p>I found in Marlin's source code that you can enable that autostart feature to be triggered from menu. Just enable <code>MENU_ADDAUTOSTART</code> in <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration_adv.h</a>. </p> <p>If you really need a g-code that start after sd-card insert then you have to adjust the marlin source code on your own. I suggest to alter file <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/cardreader.cpp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">cardreader.cpp</a>. There you have to trigger the autostart procedure after a sd-card is inserted.</p>

2018-08-30T16:30:23.963

|pla|filament-quality|storage|

<p>I've heard I should store filament in sealed container, preferably with a desiccant. </p> <p>But let's say I let a spool get a little old on the printer, or I purchased a filament spool that was old or improperly packaged. How would I know? How would this impact prints (what kind of symptoms would I see)? What things could I do (perhaps in the slicer) to correct for this and prolong the life of marginal filament?</p> <p>And the corollary... in a typical environment, how long can filament be left out without suffering from the exposure?</p> <p>I'm thinking mainly about PLA, but responses for ABS and other materials are useful, too.</p>

6784

How do I know when filament is getting old, and what things can I do to correct for it?

<p>Moisture creeps into the filament when PLA is exposed for a long time to a humid environment. This is audible like popping bubbles when heated in the hotend and does worsen the print quality. The moisture causes a noticeable property as it breaks the long molecular chains of the thermoplastic material. Once this has happened, its effect is irreversible. </p> <p>The effects of this moisture breaking the long molecular chains results in a more brittle filament; it can even snap during feeding, leading to unpleasant results like unfinished prints. If the filament snaps/breaks when you bend it, instead of folding, your filament has taken up moisture.</p>

2018-08-31T12:52:27.280

|print-quality|

<p>What about the strength parameters? Where can I give CAD models to print them and receive them? Please guide me.</p>

6793

Can 3d-printing be used to print drone frames which carry around 4 kilograms?

<p>Yes, no problem! But this does not depend on the production process, it depends on the design. </p> <p>Not only the production process (adhesion in Z direction is usually weaker than X or Y) should be taken into account, but also the choice of material. Even carbon fibre doped filaments (nylon or PLA) exist (harder to print however, due to excessive wear of the nozzle by the carbon fibres). </p> <p>You can also consider using carbon fiber tubes, and only print the connectors/mounts to connect the tubes to the engine mounts and main body mount.</p> <hr> <p><em>Basically, your question is not specific enough and boils down to a "How do I design a drone frame" or "What are the main design issues for designing a drone frame", which should be asked in an other forum. Once you have a design you could change your question and ask for specifics regarding printing the parts using FDM (e.g. orientation, positioning, materials, etc.).</em></p>

2018-08-31T15:23:36.763

|creality-ender-3|electronics|safety|

<p>I had recently purchased an ender 3 and after setting it up and plugging it in, I received an electrical shock from the power supply. I live in the UK and so I was provided an EU to UK adapter which I used and I set the voltage to 230&nbsp;V.</p> <p>Does anyone know why I was shocked and if there is any solution? Was it because EU to UK isn’t grounded (or am I wrong)?</p> <p>Would an older 10 amp monitor power cable work better as it’s grounded? </p>

6794

Electric shock from ender 3 printer PSU

<p>Sorry for leaving this so late, I completely forgot about my account until I went through some old emails. In terms of the PSU shock issue, it was fixed through a replacement 13 A cable from an old monitor (so @Green Online and @Sean Houlihane's response worked best I think).</p>

2018-09-02T09:07:26.637

|extruder|print-quality|creality-ender-3|

<p>I have printed a couple weeks perfectly fine with my Ender 3. Two weeks ago I changed the firmware but the settings were all fine and resulted in good prints.</p> <p>Now, suddenly <em>during</em> a print the extruder motor started to under-extrude.</p> <p>I thought "hey, could be the file" and used a test file that printed well two weeks ago: Under-extrusion, barely a line.</p> <p>I looked at the extruder, no filament grinding, no clicking from lost steps or moving against pressure. The Bowden tube is firmly seated though.</p> <p>I measured what is coming out: instead of 50&nbsp;mm I ordered to push into the hotend got 28.7&nbsp;mm. So I went and looked at the steps/mm, which is 93, exactly what it is also on the TronXY X1, which uses pretty much the same extruder setup but for a different style, same sized gear.</p> <p>I cleaned out the nozzle nevertheless, but that didn't change the results.</p> <p>What might be wrong and how can I fix it?!</p> <p>Edit:</p> <ul> <li>Touching the filament while I was printing a freshly sliced test, I realized it DID lose steps, just the filament did slip back (almost) quietly. Pressing a finger on the filament made me able to feel the shiver in it.</li> <li>Inspecting what was printed showed, that the nozzle had migrated against the print platform a little over the weeks.</li> </ul>

6807

Sudden underextrusion on Ender3

<p>A close inspection of what happened when printing the first layer resulted in this:</p> <ul> <li>The missing steps on the new print came from the nozzle scraping too close to the print surface, which lead to no first layer</li> <li>Readjusting the Z-axis end stop, which had moved down, resulted in no more lost steps, but the print not sticking for the first test.</li> <li><p>Releveling the bed and making sure the bar was parallel to the bed resulted in a perfect first layer.</p></li> <li><p>Lost steps and under-extrusion could not be replicated after 48 hours of <em>rest</em> for the printer.</p></li> </ul> <p>I have no idea why the print had failed due to under-extrusion <em>during</em> the print, but apparently, my immediate tests were flawed enough to not detect the first layer height resulting in getting almost no extrusion. This I mistook for massive under-extrusion, making me believe something else was at fault.</p>

2018-09-04T12:55:05.430

|print-quality|

<p>I have tried to print a 3D model with Creatr HS from Leapfrog. This print failed twice. The 3D model is the same, .gcode the same. Surprisingly it failed at different stage. Please look at the pictures. You can see the place where extruder was when print stopped. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrCvi.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrCvi.png" alt="Same model interrupted at diff. stage"></a> </p> <p>I checked the filament and extruders, it is NOT a problem here. Extruders are not clogged, filament is not tangled nor blocked. Stepper motors stopped working, anyway the display shows that print progresses. </p> <p>I have created a ticket for this issue on Leapfrog support page, but had an answer that this printer is no longer supported.<br> Does anyone has an idea what could be the core of the problem?<br> <strong>EDIT</strong><br> Today I have tried print again to observe and answer questions from the comments. Observations are:<br> - The process suddenly stops<br> - Hotend cools down (you can observe it on the picture below - I am using left extruder - as you can see it shows 24/0; 24 is actual hotend temp, 0 - wanted temperature )<br> - Display shows that print is progressing even faster than it would happen when everything is fine (maybe this is not important) </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfUMf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfUMf.png" alt="46 percent"></a><br> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3ioE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3ioE.png" alt="49 percent"></a></p> <p><strong>EDIT2</strong> </p> <p>I have opened the printer to see what is happening inside. The electronics is divided into 2 PCBs. One is an 'heavy job workhorse' (drivers and some logics), the other is a Olimex A20-Olinuxino-Micro. The pendrive with .gcode is connected to this board as well as the display and control joystick (actually encoder). <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZBah.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZBah.jpg" alt="Olimex"></a><br> One of the USB ports from Olinuxino is connected to 'workhorse' board. Next to the USB port here you can see Rx/Tx diodes.<br> <strong>Observations:</strong><br> When the print is in active state, two Rx/Tx diodes located on workhorse PCB blinking occasionally (mainly when there is a print head direction change), what brings the suggestion, that the data comes from Olinuxino PCB. When the print stops, these two diodes are blinking rapidly. I am thinking that there is some problem with Olimex board (it is sending uncontrolled data or data is being send too quick).<br> Below you can see image of drivers board with Rx/Tx diodes continuously on. There is also another Rx/Tx pair and these are also both on. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvaO6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vvaO6.jpg" alt="Driver pcb Leapfrog"></a><br> I'm going to do some search on Olinuxino board/system. </p> <p><strong>EDIT 3</strong><br> Finding: During board and temperature check I have found that the fan cooling bottom Olimex pcb is dead. I have took it out, connect to +24V and... no spinning.<br> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8p2Ma.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8p2Ma.jpg" alt="Dead fan Creatr HS"></a> I have replaced the fan to a new one. Also, I have created a 20mm box model for printing, sliced it and tried to print it. No success here. After 2 lines of print sudden stop and Rx/Tx blink. I have downloaded model of Marvin, sliced it and tried to print: all ok!<br> Also I want to know if the data is continuously fetched from USB or loaded to Olinuxino and then used to print. So, started the Marvin print, removed USB from Creatr HS and yes, the print continues until the end. I am thinking that the data must be stored in Olimex memory and then fetched and fed to drivers PCB. Question is: where in Olimex the data is stored? Is lack of fan (and possibly overheat) damaged it slightly? If this is stored in onboard NAND memory it could cause a problem after a long time - it has 100 000 write/erase cycles.<br> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjo8Z.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjo8Z.png" alt="NAND Kynix"></a><br> New board would be a solution, unfortunately Leapfrog ran out of them. Olimex is selling boards, will try to buy one. I hope that different revision will work. </p>

6829

Leapfrog Creatr HS stops mid print (extruders not clogged)

<p>I have solved the problem. After some investigation I have decided to connect directly to the drivers board. It needs to be disconnected from Olimex board and instead connected to the PC, then select 250kbps speed, COM port can be found through Device manager. I have used Repetier-Host in not Easy Mode and all possible messages turned on to see all possible messages. Then I prepared 20mm box to print and tried to print. After two lines voila! Error message: </p> <pre><code>12:35:32.401 : N187 M105*41 12:35:32.841 : Error:0 12:35:32.841 : : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered ! 12:35:32.924 : Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting) </code></pre> <p>Now I went for quick search and learned that this can be caused by intermittent fault of thermistor or its wiring. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcbMv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcbMv.png" alt="Thermistor connection on Creatr HS"></a> So, I disconnected thermistor from the PCB and checked its resistance: 170kohm. Now, when I moved the extruders on X axis there was a particular position when thermistor resistance went to infinity. There is a connector in head which went loose. After refitting the printer is behaving correctly.<br> <strong>Summary:</strong><br> It is a shame, that the display on this machine does not present any feedback from the drivers board. Also, the PC connectivity on the rear of this printer does not bring any clear information (rear USB is first connected to the Olimex PCB and then to the drivers PCB, some information from drivers PCB are lost). BTW: Leapfrog drivers board is an Arduino based Marlin firmware. Info sent to serial connection after connectivity established is: </p> <pre><code>Leapfrog Firmware: 2.5 Model: CreatrHS PROTOCOL_VERSION: 1.0 FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Extruder offset X: 15.23 Y: 0.02 </code></pre>

2018-09-05T03:25:42.310

|slicing|infill|

<p>I am attempting to write a basic slicer for some objects I am working with. I need to write a custom slicer as the objects are not polygonal based (they are implicit objects) and therefore cannot be plugged into slic3r. I can easily obtain the perimeter/shell of the objects I am working with and have a few successful prints. What I am having trouble with is how to add infill. I think the biggest hurdle is simply my inability to frame the question properly. How do current software tackle this problem?</p> <p>I don't know of my current approach is feasible but if I have a collection of vectors that represent the path around the outside of the object and a collection of vectors that represent an arbitrarily large infill pattern is there a way to union the two paths together to from an outer path (the object shell) and an inner path that is the infill pattern cut out in the shape of the object?</p> <p>EDIT:</p> <p>Sorry for the lack of clarification. So lets say I cut out the infill pattern to match the inside of the object. How do I then intelligently connect all the broken infill segments together to form an efficient path that doesn't cross gaps or mess the object up in any way? </p>

6832

How are infill paths connect to form an efficient path that respect the object's geometry?

<p>The answer to this is pretty much basic algebra: The software tackles the problem by using a set of functions that generate the infill pattern for ALL the build volume, then discard anything outside the shells. Which is determined by algebra:</p> <h1>Basics</h1> <h3>Outline Function</h3> <p>Assume the outline of the body is a function <span class="math-container">$O(l)$</span> that has a parameter <span class="math-container">$l$</span> for its length. This function can be calculated into XY coordinates, giving us <span class="math-container">$y\mapsto O^{xy}(x)$</span>, that is parameterized after <span class="math-container">$x$</span>, and should give us the values of <span class="math-container">$y$</span> for a closed function <span class="math-container">$O(l)$</span>.</p> <h3>Infill Functions</h3> <p>Now, let's generate a function for infill pattern. Let's make it easy for us and use a diagonals pattern: <span class="math-container">$I_n(x)=x+n\times d$</span> where <span class="math-container">$d$</span> is a fixed parameter for &quot;distance to last line&quot; and <span class="math-container">$n\in\mathbb Z$</span> is the number of the line with 0 passing the origin.</p> <h3>Comparation: Outline=Infill</h3> <p>Now basic algebra! Let the computer solve for each <span class="math-container">$n$</span> the term <span class="math-container">$O(x)=I_n(x)$</span>. The result should be (in the best case) paired points, all on the linear function <span class="math-container">$I_n(x)$</span>. Sort these points by their correlating <span class="math-container">$n$</span> value first, then the <span class="math-container">$x$</span> values.</p> <h1>Dealing with the results</h1> <p>Let's assume we have some banana shape and our solutions for n=0 are like this: <span class="math-container">$P_{i=1 \to 4}=\{\{1,1\},\{2,2\},\{3,3\},\{4,4\}\}$</span></p> <h2>Modeling starter</h2> <p>On the most simple cases, we hope to only have paired results - the outline is closed and thus each line passing it has to <em>cut</em> it in multiples of two. Because we don't allow geometry to be below <span class="math-container">$\{0,0\}$</span>, the line in this example will pass into the body at the first solution of these points and pass out of it at the second and so on. Generally: It moves in at odd and exits at even i. So our infill lines in the example need to connect <span class="math-container">$\{1,1\} \to \{2,2\}$</span> and <span class="math-container">$\{3,3\} \to \{4,4\}$</span>.</p> <h1>Enhancing the Modeling</h1> <h2>checking for tangents</h2> <p>Now, we might have an odd number of points that solve O(x)=I_n(x) for a given n. Let's assume <span class="math-container">$P_{i=1 \to 5}=\{1,1\},\{2,2\},\{3,3\},\{4,4\},\{5,5\}$</span>.</p> <p>Now we need to be careful as one of these points is guaranteed to be a point in which <span class="math-container">$I_n(x)$</span> is a tangent at of <span class="math-container">$O(x)$</span>. So, we need to know the first differential of <span class="math-container">$O(x)$</span> in the points, which is the tangent at <span class="math-container">$O(x)$</span>. But we don't need to solve <em>all</em> the points: We know the first should enter and the last exit the body, so we need (for most cases) to only solve this for the points <span class="math-container">$P_i$</span> with <span class="math-container">$i=2 \to i_{max-1}$</span>. When <span class="math-container">$O'(x)=I_n(x)$</span>, we got a tangent and remove this point from the list of points to connect with infill lines.</p> <p>Because we could have several tangents in a set of points, this check has to be done for all sets of points to eliminate these points.</p> <p>Also, I used the &quot;usually&quot; there by intent: there are cases where the first or last point is a tangent, and because it is easier to cose, we should run the elimination process over all <span class="math-container">$P_1 \to P_{max}$</span>!</p> <p>The new, reduced set of points will be a paired list: <span class="math-container">$Q_{i=1 \to 4}=\{1,1\},\{2,2\},\{4,4\},\{5,5\}$</span>. The Infil connects <span class="math-container">$Q_1 \to Q_2$</span> and <span class="math-container">$Q_3\to Q_4$</span>.</p> <h2>Turning Points into vectors</h2> <p>Now, we have our points <span class="math-container">$Q_1$</span> and <span class="math-container">$Q_2$</span> (or any other pair of <span class="math-container">$n \land n+1$</span>, where n is an element of the odd numbers), both on <span class="math-container">$I_{n=0}(x)$</span>. How to connect? Easy! <span class="math-container">$I{n=0}$</span> is a function, most likely a linear one. Along this line has to be our connecting line from <span class="math-container">$Q_1\to Q_2$</span>, so the movement we have to plot is the function of our pattern between the points. For a simple, linear pattern this would be:</p> <p><span class="math-container">$L_1=\frac{I(x)}{|I(x)|} \times |\vec{Q_2}-\vec{Q_1}|+\vec{Q1}$</span></p> <h1>Optimisation</h1> <h2>Sorting properly</h2> <p>Now, we have a set of Lines <span class="math-container">$L_n$</span>, where, as established in the last paragraph, n is an odd number declaring it has the lower-end <span class="math-container">$Q_n$</span>, and the upper-end <span class="math-container">$Q_{n+1}$</span>. How do we sort these lines smartly so we have the least movement? Let's take a look at our lists:</p> <ul> <li>The list of P_i, which contains all tangential points and end points. Not very helpful.</li> <li>The reduced list of <span class="math-container">$Q_{n}$</span>, which contains all the start and end points; it is <em>sorted</em> in a way that odd numbers are starts, and even ends.</li> <li>The list of <span class="math-container">$L_n$</span> with i always being an odd number, that contains the movement paths (=lines) from each <span class="math-container">$Q_{n}$</span> to its corresponding <span class="math-container">$Q_{n+1}$</span></li> </ul> <h3>Shortest movement between prints?</h3> <p>Now, let's do some math again: What is the closest <span class="math-container">$Q_{a}$</span> to the <span class="math-container">$Q_{n+1}$</span> we did end at after doing the <span class="math-container">$L_n$</span> movement? Well, first of all, we need to make sure we don't get back to already moved paths so let's make a new list <span class="math-container">$R_{i}$</span>, which contains all the <span class="math-container">$Q_{i}$</span> we have not yet moved to.</p> <p>So what is the closest <span class="math-container">$R_{i}$</span> to the end point of the path <span class="math-container">$L_e$</span> we just moved? Well, easy! Solve <span class="math-container">$min|R_i-L_e|$</span> with i being all the odd numbers in the list of <span class="math-container">$R_{i}$</span> and <span class="math-container">$L_e$</span> the point where the printhead was sent to at the end of the last movement</p> <h3>fewest direction changes?</h3> <p>Always moving just the shortest distance might create a large number of direction changes. So it might be a good idea to keep the point-lists sorted by the parameter n of the function <span class="math-container">$l_n(x)$</span> that created the points in the first place, and run down that list from minimum n that generated points (which can be below 0) to the maximum n that generated points.</p> <h3>optimizing direction changes &amp; movement paths</h3> <p>Now, we have 2 approaches that pretty much only follow the pattern. However, we might make our average movement paths more efficient by using a simple trick:</p> <p>Up to now, all our line functions <span class="math-container">$l_n(x)$</span> had the same vector and just a different starting point to one another. So all the starts were on one side of the body, all the ends on the opposite. With a very simple trick on the infill function we can generate a group of functions that alternate the sides of the end-points between each line, jsut by adding an inverse element:</p> <p><span class="math-container">$L_n(x)=-1^n\times l_n(x)$</span></p> <p>Now, after all the movements with the same <span class="math-container">$n$</span> are done, check for the closest starting point (which should be on the same side, but is not necessary the neighboring line), and go down that line fully, eradicating these points from the list of remaining points <span class="math-container">$R_{i}$</span>. Once back on the side we <em>started</em> first at, we look for the closest unused point again, run down that line, rinse and repeat.</p>

2018-09-06T04:59:31.737

|marlin|z-axis|

<p>When manually controlling the z-axis in reprap, it works fine. If I use the home button, it doesn't move. Instead, it stalls/freezes/hangs. It attempts to turn, but can't successfully make a full turn. </p>

6845

Weird stepper issue when setting up Marlin printer

<p>If you run M503 you should be able to see your max speeds. They, along with your homing speeds, are probably far too high and causing skipped steps (no movement). You can lower them down temporarily with M203. <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M203.html</a></p>

2018-09-06T18:12:10.460

|replacement-parts|ultimaker-original|

<p>The title almost says it all.</p> <p>I was searching on websites like amazon.com and ebay.com for a replacement of the temperature sensor of my Ultimaker 1, but could only find replacements for Ultimaker 2 (PT100), but I know those aren't compatible.</p> <p>What specifications have replacement temperature sensors that work with the tc2 signal amplifier of the Ultimaker Original?</p>

6849

Ultimaker Original temperature sensor replacement?

<p>You need a <strong>thermocouple</strong>, not a thermistor. Also, as you say the Ultimaker Original+, and the Ultimaker 2, (which both use version 2.x.x boards) use a PT100¹.</p> <p>According to <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/?do=findComment&amp;comment=105879" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a>, on <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+</a>, a <em>k-type</em> thermocouple will do:</p> <blockquote> <p>I am changing over to E3D V6 on my UMO, and have elected to used the k-type thermocouples sold by e3d with the standard/original UMO amplifier board.</p> </blockquote> <p>Or to be more precise, from <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/?do=findComment&amp;comment=175376" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a>, on <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">THERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT</a>, it is a <em><strong>3 mm k-type</strong></em> thermocouple:</p> <blockquote> <p>I would ask the reseller to measure the thermocouple to be really 3mm. I never bough a thermocoupler so no idea. I know that some aliexpress sellers did sell me a pt100 with 3.05mm (it doesn't fit in) so is good idea to ask for a photo with a caliper before paying.</p> </blockquote> <p>The thermocouple in question, on AliExpress was this, <a href="https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/Type-K-Thermocouple-TC-for-Ultimaker-Original-3D-printer-3mm-K-type-thermocouple-for-Ultimaker-Original/2412069_32728579529.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SWMAKER Thermoelement Typ K (TC) für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker 3mm K thermoelement typ für Ultimaker Original 3D drucker</a>, ~$10</p> <p>Or this, considerably more expensive at €33, <a href="https://www.3dprima.com/accessories/spare-parts/ultimaker/ultimaker-original-thermocouple-sensor/a-20948/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor</a> (out of stock):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IpvsK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IpvsK.png" alt="Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor" title="Ultimaker Original - Thermocouple Sensor" /></a></p> <hr /> <p>With respect to the firmware, from <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/?do=findComment&amp;comment=105888" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a>, on <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9461-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3D Thermocouple mount on UMO+</a></p> <blockquote> <p>Normally you won't have any modifications to do cause your UMO already works with a thermocouple.</p> </blockquote> <p>So, assuming that you have an <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/IC/AD595.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AD595</a> amplifier and not a MAX6675, ensure that you have</p> <pre><code>#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 </code></pre> <p>set in <code>Configuration.h</code></p> <pre><code>//=========================================================================== //=============================Thermal Settings ============================ //=========================================================================== // //--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table // //// Temperature sensor settings: // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0) // -1 is thermocouple with AD595 // 0 is not used // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup) // 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup) // 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup) // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !! // 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp; J-Head) (4.7k pullup) // 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup) // 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup) // 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup) // 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) // 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup) // 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup) // 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup) // 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed) // 13 is 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend &quot;Simple ONE &quot; &amp; &quot;Hotend &quot;All In ONE&quot; // 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x // 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950 // // 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k // (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID) // 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup) // 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup) // 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp; J-Head) (1k pullup) // // 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup // 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard) // 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup // 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard) #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 </code></pre> <hr /> <p>However, according to <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/11834-questions-about-thermocouple-and-thermistor/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Questions about thermocouple and thermistor</a>, the UMO board is 1.5.7, and <em>can</em> use NTC100K thermistors and (maybe - but it isn't clear) a 4.7K pullup resistor:</p> <blockquote> <p>Firstly we have to do the Challenge with a Sainsmart UM Kit with that UM 1.5.7 Board.</p> <p>We also have bought the print heads by E3D model V6 which have including ntc 100k thermistors which have already tables in marlin. As the V1.5.7. Board works with thermocouple, there was the question how to connect this. I got already an answere to just connect Signal and GND, to the board but I'd have to look for the resistors behind the connectors. Is it true, that I need a different resistor for each type of thermistor?</p> </blockquote> <p>However, it is probably advisable to stick with the 3 mm k-type thermocouple, for simplicity's sake.</p> <hr /> <h3>Footnote</h3> <p>¹ Apparently for these reasons, from <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/?do=findComment&amp;comment=175503" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this post</a>, on <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/17460-thermocouple-sensor-replacement/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">THERMOCOUPLE SENSOR REPLACEMENT</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The UMO has the 'old' UltiBoard 1.5x which is a shield for an Arduino Mega, with the Pololu / Allegro stepper drivers plugged on it (Like the RAMPS controllers).</p> <p>At that time RTDs where not very popular, and most printers came with thermistors. To improve the temperature feedback loop Ultimaker decided to use a thermocouple with an amplifier on top of the print head, which gives better results in particular at higher temperatures.</p> <p>If you want to use a thermsitor instead of the thermcopule, you just have to swap the connections, and add a resistor on the board (the place for the resistor is foreseen on the board).</p> <p>You can even go for an RTD using E3D's adapter plate.</p> <p>The UMO+ is using the UltiBoard 2.x which is the same as in the Ultimaker 2, so it is PT100...</p> </blockquote> <p><em>Note: RTD = Resistance Temperature Detector (such as a Pt100). A thermistor is similar to an RTD, but contains a ceramic or polymer resistor en lieu of metal.</em></p>

2018-09-06T22:12:11.863

|3d-models|stl|

<p>I've got a bracelet concept that I've sketched up as a flat design. I'm trying to found a route by which I can extrude this into a 3d object (depth map?), curve it into a bracelet, then ultimately create a STL file out of it. I'm having trouble finding a way to do this that allows me to "warp" the flat object into a bracelet before I try to print. </p> <p>Is there a recommend technique for this? I'm not worried about representation of the picture; it's effectively meant to be an 'etched' pattern.</p>

6853

Route to transform 2d image (depth map) into a curved bracelet (and STL file)?

<p>This is the best and simplest way I've found to transform a flat design into a 3D object that you can then save as an STL file: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ows2QTiMRPg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Blender-Converting 2D Image to 3D Object</a></p> <p>This solution requires you to use <a href="https://www.blender.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Blender</a> and <a href="https://inkscape.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Inkscape</a>, both softwares are open-source and available for free at this time.</p> <p>As suggested below by @Greenonline, I will provide a step by step in case the video is removed from Youtube. I'm sorry that I cannot provide screenshots at the moment, but I'm on a trip and writing from an old laptop that cannot run either Blender or Inkscape.</p> <ol> <li><p>Load your image in Inkscape.</p> <ul> <li>Format is unimportant as long as Inkscape can read it. It works with black and white and color images, but please note that color information won't be sent to Blender in the end, you'll have to add color materials yourself once the picture has been converted to a 3D object.</li> </ul></li> <li><p>Select the image or the portion of it that you want to turn into a 3D object.</p> <ul> <li>For some unknown reason, Inkscape doesn't automatically select the image you loaded into it, so you have to do it manually. When the image is selected, it will be surrounded by a dotted line and you'll see arrows appear on the sides and corners.</li> </ul></li> <li><p>Go to Path > Trace Bitmap, or use Shift+Alt+B, and a pop-up window will appear. Keep the default settings, just make sure that the 'Remove background' option, located at the bottom of the window, is checked, then click OK.</p> <ul> <li>You can see the result of the operation in the 'Preview' window. If the 'Preview' is empty, just click on the 'Update' button located below 'Preview'. If it is still empty after you clicked on 'Update', then you haven't selected your picture as indicated in Step 2!</li> </ul></li> <li><p>Got to File > Save As and save your file as 'Plain svg'.</p> <ul> <li>Saving as 'Inkscape svg' should work as well, but it's always best to use the standard format.</li> </ul></li> </ol> <p>And you're done with Inkscape, time to switch to Blender.</p> <ol start="5"> <li><p>Go to File > Import > Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) and import the picture you just created in Inkscape.</p> <ul> <li>If you do not see Scalable Vector Graphics (.svg) in the list of importable files, it means the add-on hasn't been activated. You can do it by going to File > User Preferences > Add-ons then typing 'svg' in the search field will bring up the relevant add-on (Import-Export: Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) format). Clicking the checkbox next to it's name will automatically activate it. </li> <li>The picture will usually appear very small in Blender. Press 5 on the numeric keyboard to home onto it, then you can stretch it to the desired size by using the relevant tools in Blender. </li> <li>It might be a good idea to move the object center into the middle of the geometry, although, from personal experience, you can do it after it becomes 3D without too much trouble.</li> </ul></li> <li><p>Your picture has been loaded in Blender as a Curve object. Go to the 'Curve' tab and in the 'Geometry' sub-menu you can use the 'Extrude' slider to give depth to your picture.</p></li> <li><p>Finally, once you've extruded your curve to your satisfaction, go to Object > Convert To > Mesh from Curve/Meta/Surf/Text, or use Alt+C, and voila, you're done!</p></li> </ol> <p>You know have a nice 3D object made of polygons that you can modify at your leisure using Blender's tools.</p>

2018-09-07T11:15:28.410

|ultimaker-original|

<p>When exchanging the mainboard of my Ultimaker Original, I found the new (unoriginal) mainboard to have a condensator that is quite a little higher than on the original, which means the fan duct doesn't fit any more.</p> <p>I read somewhere that those A4988 stepper motor drivers don't have to be actively cooled, but a heatsink will be sufficient:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJmlL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJmlL.jpg" alt="A4988 stepper motor driver with heatsink"></a></p> <p>After testing the theory I found the heatsinks to be really hot, but not too hot to touch. Sadly I do not have any means of temperature measurement other than my fingers...</p> <p>How hot do they normally get, when should I abort printing and look for a different solution?</p> <p>Are there any good solutions other than the original cooler &amp; cooling duct?</p>

6859

A4988 driver cooling specifications

<p>The answer to that question is not as simple as it looks as we don't see the hardware. Main issue is the current pointed by Himanshu, that generates most of the temperature in the silicon chip. </p> <p>I was using drivers without active cooling, but my case was open so there was enough heat dispersion. </p> <p>You could do a dry run - by creating a command file with G-code like below</p> <pre><code>G28 G1 X200 Y200 F6000 G1 X0 Y0 G1 X200 Y200 ... ... copy and paste many times to have a 10 minutes run on the printer </code></pre> <p>That will keep the stepper busy and you could observe radiator temperature and probably see/hear miss-steps.</p> <p>other solution could be a duct <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-coolboard-duct-for-control-board-cooling" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like this one</a></p>

2018-09-07T11:23:42.370

|print-quality|

<p>I am using cura with M3D entry level printer.</p> <p>When I print things more than 6-7cm/2.5-3inches, at the end of the print, the hot end sink back into the print then gets stuck as it tries to return to idle position.</p> <p>Please see the attached photo. Has anyone had this problem? Thank you<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xpD4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xpD4.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The last 20 lines of gcode is:</p> <pre><code>G0 X50.83 Y49.982 G1 F600 X50.541 Y49.975 E4399.62304 G1 X50.268 Y49.985 E4399.62637 G1 X49.999 Y49.999 E4399.63024 G1 X49.73 Y50.012 E4399.6341 G1 X49.457 Y50.023 E4399.63742 G1 X49.168 Y50.016 E4399.63941 G0 F7200 X49.28 Y49.87 ;TIME_ELAPSED:6301.614981 G1 F1500 E4393.13941 M107 M104 S0 M140 S0 ;Retract the filament G92 E1 G1 E-1 F300 G28 X0 Y0 M84 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode M104 S0 ;End of Gcode </code></pre>

6860

3D printer ends print by sinking in to it and getting stuck

<p>From the provided G-code:</p> <pre><code>G28 X0 Y0 </code></pre> <p>The meaning of the <code>G28</code> code is <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29" rel="nofollow noreferrer">move printhead to home</a>. In theory, the presence or absence of <code>X</code>, <code>Y</code>, and <code>Z</code> values are used to indicate which axes the printhead should move on, but as the RepRap wiki notes, some printers ignore this, typically interpreting any <code>G28</code> code as "move to 0,0,0". In particular:</p> <blockquote> <p>Because the behavior of G28 is unspecified, it is recommended not to automatically include G28 in your ending GCode. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use G0 or G1.</p> </blockquote> <p>You should probably replace the code with <code>G1 X0 Y0 Z[value near the top of your printer]</code>. You could simply replace <code>G28 X0 Y0</code> with <code>G1 X0 Y0</code>, but that risks dragging the tip of the nozzle across the upper surface of the finished print.</p>

2018-09-08T15:54:48.133

|print-quality|creality-ender-3|

<p>After noticing that my ender 3 couldn't print a 'perfect' circle I decided to use a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865" rel="nofollow noreferrer">calibration cube</a> to see if that could be the issue. These were my results:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHJOF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHJOF.jpg" alt="X Y Z" /></a></p> <p>I did have some successful prints before noticing these problems but it would be great if anyone could help/find a solution.</p> <p>I think it may be because of the belts tension as I had accidentally over stretched it by putting it over the wheels instead of under: is it worth getting a new belt then?</p> <p>I use 20% infill, with triangle pattern in cura, using the standard 0.4mm nozzle.</p> <h1>Edit</h1> <p>After doing a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3090144" rel="nofollow noreferrer">different testprint</a> and measuring, it revealed that both had an accurate 20mm Y and Z, but only an 18.5mm X. Might I have destroyed my belt when I mounted it overstrained?</p> <h1>Edit2:</h1> <p>After purchasing a new X belt, the calibration cube was much closer at 19 x 20 x 20. But still not at a good enough tolerance for my liking. Additionally, when printing a cylinder, two relatively flat edges were printed with it either side (perpendicular to the x-axis).</p>

6869

Ender 3 Calibration Cube Fail + Can't Print Circles

<p>First, check that the calibration part you have is actually a cube. Maybe you downloaded a trick 'calibration cube' model. Cura will show he overall dimensions of any model which it is slicing.</p> <p>Ignore any print quality issues first off. A hollow calibration cube is mainly used to check the X/Y/Z motion and so long as you print at a sensible (slow) speed), the other parameters shouldn't have much effect (so long as the first layer is OK, and you get within 30% of the right extrusion).</p> <p>If the calibration cube is within +/- 0.5mm on each side, it's probably good. Under/over extrusion, caliper technique, etc, can explain this sort of variation, and you might want to use a bigger test part like <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2566871" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this star on my thingiverse account</a> once you think you're close.</p> <p>The 'steps per mm' setting is determined within the firmware, it is part of how your printer consumes G-code. For a delta printer, for example, there is some fancy maths to combine X/Y/Z into the motor movements. This means that you can't change steps/mm in Cura, you need to either change the firmware defaults and 'reset to factory settings', or modify the parameters in EEPROM by sending G-code.</p> <p>Seeing too small a calibration part (for a Cartesian printer) can easily be explained by problems in the printer's motion system:</p> <ul> <li>Stepper missing steps due to jerk or acceleration too high</li> <li>Stepper missing steps due to binding/friction in the bearings (Send <code>M84</code> to idle the stepper motor, and move X by hand)</li> <li>Teeth missing on the drive belt (may show up on a diagonal 'bar' print)</li> <li>Loose drive pinion (maybe backlash on the flat on the spindle means the problem is greater on small parts) - see below</li> <li>Flex in the drive mechanism (e.g. belt mount to traveller is loose)</li> </ul> <p>An annoying feature of a lot of these problems is that for any particular repetitive sequence of steps, you might see a very consistent result. Even thought to problem is something being badly adjusted, it gives the impression that the problem is calibration.</p> <p>The drive wheel is held in place with a grub screw, see this diagram from the Anet-A8 assembly diagram.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C3fcb.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C3fcb.png" alt="Anet X-drive"></a></p>

2018-09-10T22:44:53.173

|extruder|print-quality|pla|cooling|

<p>Really strange observation with my MP Select Mini V2 printing PLA. I've printed a dual-fan shroud so I can have a dedicated part-cooling fan. I've noticed that when I turn it on, the extruder starts stringing everywhere. Little tiny spider-web wisps. No amount of temperature change will make them go away (printing at 200&nbsp;&deg;C). But if I simply turn off the part-cooling fan, I get a perfect print. This doesn't make sense to me - isn't the part-cooling fan supposed to reduce stringing by cooling the filament faster?</p> <p>More info: Using Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, retraction enabled at 3.5&nbsp;mm and 40&nbsp;mm/s, which works great when the part-cooling fan is OFF. But when I turn it on without changing any other settings, I get stringing everywhere.</p> <p>Please see picture below. The part on the left was printed using the part-cooling fan and the one on the right was printed without the part-cooling fan. No other changes. The part-cooling fan is pictured in upper left (bottom fan).</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dB744.jpg" alt="Two printed fan shrouds" title="Two printed fan shrouds"></p> <p>Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?</p> <p>Note that I print at 0.175&nbsp;mm layer height, or "Normal" for the MP Mini. The cooling fan can be controlled but if I turn it completely off then the cold end part of the nozzle won't get actively cooled. Using Cura I can slowly increase the fan over the first several levels as well, but I'm worried that if the cold end doesn't stay cold it will get clogged up with melted filament. I will try some different fan speed settings and report back - currently running at 100&nbsp;% all the time.</p> <hr> <p><em>I went back to the stock shroud with single fan to remove variables. The stock shroud has a small vent at the bottom where air blows over the part, but not much. I had the same problem - I had to put a piece of tape over the blow hole to get the part to print without strings. I also couldn't get the PLA to stick to the bed easily when the blow hole was open. I'm not using the heated bed in any cases - I've found I can print most PLA without heating the bed at all. I'm beginning to think maybe this PLA is just extremely temperature sensitive. The brand is 3D Solutech Printer Filament Real Black.</em></p>

6878

Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?

<p>Prior to a move the print cooling fan causes the filament to cool on the outside while the nozzle is still hot, when it then moves it causes a strings to form that will be cooled instantly. This means that the cooling you have is too much and should be reduced.</p> <p>This printer has a single fan to cool the cold-end and the print through a slot with the same fan. As this fan can be scheduled, it would be recommended to create a dual fan on the carriage where you have a dedicated fan cooling the cold end at a fixed voltage, while the print is cooled by a separate fan that can be scheduled through slicer settings.</p>

2018-09-11T05:34:32.090

|prusa-i3|octoprint|

<p>A corner of my model curled up, causing the head to crash into it. The Prusa MK3 detected the error, printed a message to that effect, and moved the print head to the home position.</p> <p>I was surprised when printing immediately resumed, and of course immediately went awry as it pulled the model off the print bed and dragged it around.</p> <p>My questions:</p> <ul> <li>Is it expected that printing stops when a head crash is detected?</li> <li>If so, does Octoprint recognize this condition and stop printing?</li> </ul>

6879

Does Octoprint stop printing on Crash Detection?

<p>You are describing precisely how the crash detection should work on the Prusa Mk3, so it is doing exactly what it should do. If you look into <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDJq0WplXb0&amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;t=145" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this video from Jozef Prusa</a> you will see him explaining that in case a crash is detected (steps missed are registered because the Mk3 uses trinamic stepper drivers), the print head is homed and will immediately restart printing. </p> <p>Please do read <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/others-archive--f66/octoprint-with-mk3-crash-detection-missed-lines-of-t15123.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this interesting post</a>; it describes your similar problems: after detection it resumes. He noteworthy mentions that even a few lines of G-code went missing, this is probably caused by the fact that OctoPrint buffers a few commands or something that get lost because the Pruse Mk3 crash fail safe kicks in.</p> <p>In effect, OctoPrint is just a simple supplier of G-code commands and does not recognize the problem to act on it and will therefore continue sending new commands after the Prusa Mk3 crash has recovered (sending <code>ok</code> to OctoPrint for receiving new commands) from the crash and re-homed and got the temperatures back to normal levels.</p> <p>An existing plugin for OctoPrint may help you in this case. The <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/actiontrigger/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Action Trigger Plugin</a> is able to detect events, but have to be implemented in your firmware. E.g. the action for filament <a href="https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/actiontrigger/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">describes</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>This trigger will pause the print and home the X and Y axis, giving the user the opportunity to change out the filament. The print needs to be resumed manually through the UI.</p> </blockquote> <p>Maybe it can be configured to pick up the existing event and issue a pause. It could be worth looking into this.</p> <hr> <p><strong>EDIT</strong><br> Looking closer to the ActionTrigger plugin I noticed that you cannot configure it and the "manual" is very terse. I guess this might involve some serious hacking...</p>

2018-09-11T15:35:51.963

|ultimaker-cura|software|

<p><strong>problem solved by resetting cura.</strong></p> <p>I have problems like this: How can I fix this? I can't find the right setting.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cf9Q.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="No top layer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cf9Q.png" alt="No top layer" title="No top layer"></a></p> <p>Also, what are these yellow lines? Do you know how to remove them? They disappear when I disable to show the brim/raft/skirt.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bj7Sx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Yellow lines #1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bj7Sx.png" alt="Yellow lines #1" title="Yellow lines #1"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnAc4.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Yellow lines #2"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnAc4.png" alt="Yellow lines #2" title="Yellow lines #2"></a></p>

6883

(Cura setting) How can I fix this? No top layer

<p>This problem appears when a face is inverted, so the slicer confuses and expect the other wall to close the object. So you need to reverse that face to show the face out and the back face inside the shape to be filled</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OklcS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OklcS.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> </p> <p><em>I will edit this answer with more examples</em></p>

2018-09-12T00:02:34.023

|3d-design|

<p>Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?</p> <p>If not, is there any tool can convert it to another format such as STL, OBJ, STEP, and IGES? </p>

6890

Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?

<p>No, <code>gltf</code> is not a format that slicers accept commonly, and indeed, it is not even intended to be reverseable in the 1.0 format version. This has changed a little for the 2.0 standard. Some programs that allow exporting into the sliceable <code>stl</code> and <code>obj</code> formats can also import <code>gltf</code>:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.blender.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">blender</a> has an <a href="https://github.com/KhronosGroup/glTF-Blender-IO" rel="nofollow noreferrer">importer plugin</a> - more info <a href="https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/93415/how-to-open-a-glb-or-gltf-file-in-blender">here</a></li> <li><a href="https://www.sketchup.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">SketchUpp</a> has an <a href="https://www.simlab-soft.com/3d-plugins/GLTF_Importer_For_Sketchup-main.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">importer plugin</a></li> </ul> <p>You have to be careful though: formats like <code>dae</code> or <code>stl</code> are meant to transfer 3d objects usually without the loss of information or with just a minimal loss (stl, for example, does technically not contain a <em>scale</em> natively), while <code>gltf</code> is end users and <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/questions/40549453/is-there-a-way-to-convert-gltf-to-dae">does not contain all the information</a>. This can lead to models getting distorted and destroyed on importing them into a rendering or modeling software.</p>

2018-09-12T15:00:15.403

|heated-bed|anet-a8|glass-bed|

<p>I'm looking for clamps to fix the glass on my heatbed. After some search I found that some people use clamps printed of PLA. Can I use PLA clamps for a heated heatbed (~60&nbsp;°C)? </p> <p>I also tried foldback clips but they block my nozzle. The Anet A8 starts in the front left corner. When I start to print, the nozzle moves a little bit up on z, then up on y and right on x. At this first move it moves into the fold back clip. I'm looking for a way to fix the corners and not to fix the edge in the middle.</p> <p>What other clamps or clips can I use to fix the glass (~3&nbsp;mm) on the heatbed (~2.5&nbsp;mm)? I don't want to use glue.</p> <p>My printer is an Anet A8.</p>

6896

Clamps / clips for glass on heatbed

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOeIf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOeIf.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>I went to OfficeMax and got some Small clips. They are bigger than the Micro/Mini clips that ship with the printer and seem to fit just right on a glass plate. </p> <p>One of the Mini clips that shipped with the Ender 3 is shown to the left. The Small size that works best is obviously centered. The Medium in the back seem way too big. </p> <p>For an added bonus, they sell this sandpaper with a rubber back and it really increases traction. An oversize chunk of that worked really well. But it's optional.</p>

2018-09-12T22:55:02.340

|print-quality|troubleshooting|extrusion|asa|flashforge-creator|

<p>I have been having issues with a vase print using a FlashForge Creator Pro. I am using the default slicer for the printer(FlashPrint) because the Creator Pro only accepts <code>.x3g</code> rather than <code>.g</code>/<code>.gcode</code>.</p> <p>The issue is that the printer seems to be both under extruding and over extruding. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvK6Q.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pvK6Q.jpg" alt="Under and Over Extrusion"></a></p> <p>I am printing ASA filament at 0.18&nbsp;mm layer height at 240&nbsp;&deg;C with a heated bed at 110&nbsp;&deg;C. I am running the print with the fan on. I am also running at 80&nbsp;mm/s print speed.</p> <p>I have tried both lowering and raising the temperature, changing the print speed from 80&nbsp;mm/s to 60&nbsp;mm/s, and changing the extrusion multiplier.</p> <p>At this point I am not really sure what to do in order to get this to print nicely, any advice would be welcome.</p> <hr> <p>After a few more prints and the link that "E-Doe" posted I am beginning to think that the problem might be with the z-axis. My reason for thinking this is that the layers that bulge out do so consistently for the entire layer and then stop for a bit. I think I also ruled out temperature variation. I measured the temperature in the enclosure with a separate device and it stayed pretty constant the whole time.</p> <p>Not really sure how to fix that but I will call this question answered.</p>

6902

Unknown issue affecting print quality

<p>A very helpful page for troubleshooting common errors is: <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/" rel="noreferrer">Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide</a> - <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#lines-on-the-side-of-print" rel="noreferrer">Lines on the Side of Print</a></p> <p>It seems like your problem is inconsistent extrusion or temperature variation. From the photo you posted I guess that you use a big diameter nozzle. Keep in mind that your extruder might not be well equipped to deliver such a large amount of plastic consistently. This most likely is a problem with the heating capacity.</p> <p>You can try to lower the speed even more to give your extruder more time to heat the plastic.</p>

2018-09-13T05:57:50.193

|bed-leveling|

<p><em>I asked this question as a small question under an <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6365/5740">answer</a> of another <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6364/how-bed-leveling-is-achieved-without-table-screws">question (How bed leveling is achieved without table screws?)</a>, but have been asked to post this as a separate question to answer it with more detail conform SE policy.</em></p> <hr> <p>One question with respect to automatic bed leveling (also known as ABL): If the bed is tilted and the auto leveling measured this and then the printer adjust the z axis over the position on the bed, will a x-y-point on the first layer be located exactly under the (in model) same x-y-point in a higher layer, or will it be shifted to? I mean, if the bed is 1 mm lower on one side over 10 cm then a top corner of a 10-cm-cube should be also 1 mm shifted, so that the cube still is real cubic and not sheared.</p>

6904

Does auto leveling result in sheared prints?

<p>Using automatic bed leveling assists you in getting the print to stick better to the build platform as a result of the print head following the non-uniform geometry or tilt of the build plate.</p> <p>In, e.g. Marlin Firmware, the bed level correction is fading out over a predefined distance, this is determined by the constant <code>#define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT</code> in the printer firmware <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration.h</a> file and the height can be set with <code>M420 Z&lt;height&gt;</code> (see <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>).</p> <blockquote> <pre><code>M420 S1 ; Enable compensation using current grid/mesh M420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10 </code></pre> </blockquote> <p>If Z equals zero, leveling compensation will be fully applied to all layers of the print object.</p> <p>Yes, a cube will not be perfectly cubic, that is why even with auto bed leveling you need to provide a bed as level as possible, it only should correct for very small deviations.</p> <p>When the print is smaller than the fade out height, you would indeed get a sheared print, if larger, then the top of the print would be level with respect to the reference plane (machine true; this is the level of the X-Y plane, basically the level of the hot end carriage). Note that that still can be skew if the printer is improperly calibrated (e.g. when using 2 Z steppers or misalignment of the height on either side).</p>

2018-09-14T17:06:07.100

|filament|extruder|creality-cr-10|

<p><em>The pictures explain my problem. I have already tried to reduce the retraction but that showed no effect. Thank you for your help.</em> </p> <p>The effect is a total stop of the print (no material is extruded).</p> <ul> <li>Creality CR 10</li> <li>Cura 3.4.1</li> </ul> <p>I recently added this new feeder aluminium block because the 3D printed stock version was bad quality.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/05Kkq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament not entering Bowden tube"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/05Kkq.jpg" alt="Filament not entering Bowden tube" title="Filament not entering Bowden tube"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzUD5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Close up"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzUD5.jpg" alt="Close up" title="Close up"></a></p>

6914

Filament isn't going into the Bowden tube, instead it goes "into the room"

<p>You just have to cut the filament at a 45° angle. Then push down the extruder and push the filament in. Then heat up the nozzle. Next, hand feed the filament until the filament starts oozing out.</p>

2018-09-15T22:04:02.290

|pla|ptfe-tube|bowden|

<p>There's PLA filament clogged in my Bowden tube, is there a best practice for cleaning it out or do I need to replace the whole tube?</p> <p>Also, the couplings are totally stuck, so I guess those would need replacement too or are there ways to get stuck couplings off?</p> <p>Click <a href="https://streamable.com/bi73e" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> for a video.</p>

6922

Bowden tube clog

<p>Most standard filaments soften at 200 °C, meaning a pot of near-boiling water should soften whatever is stuck, allowing you to either fuse another strand of filament to it or use it to push it out of the tube.</p>