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3dprinting.stackexchange.com

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2018-03-11T11:32:40.657

|diy-3d-printer|cooling|mechanics|print-fan|

<p>I have this <a href="https://www.tme.eu/en/details/mf50151vx-a99/dc12v-fans/sunon/mf50151vx-b00u-a99/" rel="noreferrer">fan model</a>, it is a SUNON model number <a href="https://www.tme.eu/en/Document/b30ea71fee61d11101012e50df6ac0ad/MF50151VX-A99-DTE.pdf" rel="noreferrer">MF50151VX-B00U-A99</a> and it is a blower type. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGueR.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGueR.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>When the head is moving in the X-axis it makes noise.<br> I think this type of fans is not suitable for rapid movement and rapid changes in directions.</p> <p>I think the noise is coming from the axial of the fan because I think there is a clearance in the axial for moving up and down.</p> <p>When I put my finger on the fan body(the rotating part) the noise stop! </p> <p><strong>My question, What type of fans suitable for rapid movement and rapid direction change? and if this is not the problem what is the problem in my situation?</strong></p> <p>I have tried searching but I can really find a direct answer!</p>

5618

Cooling fan noise when head is moving in the X axis

<p>MagLev fans with Vapo bearing are (like the name suggests) magnetic levitation bearings - the rotor &quot;floats&quot; in the air, it's not press-fot like in ball bearings, therefore it has movement in perpendicular to the axis.</p> <p>MagLev fans are great at low acceleration and low jerk (or in stationary applications) but their bearings will bang on sudden movement changes. Just take a MagLev (with Vapo bearing - VX, V1, V2..), there actually are Dual Ball Bearing versions of MagLev fans (BX, B1, B2..) which are way better suited in moving applications.</p>

2018-03-12T05:31:51.617

|ramps-1.4|hotend|thermistor|

<p>About two days ago, I started seeing that my hotend was heating up erratically. I first noticed this while printing a part in PETG and the temp jumped to 260&nbsp;°C. I shut down the printer at that time and first started checking the hardware. I noticed that the E3D V6 thermistor had been tightened too much. I disassembled the entire hotend, cleaned everything and then reassembled everything. I thought to retune the hotend and when I tried tuning it at 240&nbsp;°C. </p> <p>This is where the strange behavior occurs. The hotend steadily climbed up till about 200&nbsp;°C. After that it just went nuts. I started seeing unreal temps such as 646&nbsp;°C and such. At this point I thought the MEGA might be at fault. I replaced it and the hotend (an E3D V6 clone). This had the screw on glass thermistor. Again the same erratic behavior and unreal temp readings. </p> <p>What could be wrong here? What am I missing? Can this be the heater cartridge? </p>

5621

RAMPS won't PID tune and shows unreal temps

<p>One of the thermistor wires had come loose from the crimp ferrules. I re-crimped it and it works fine now. </p>

2018-03-12T20:47:31.797

|anet-a6|

<p>So like I sayed in the title, Why can't the Anet A6 do .05 layer height? I found that some printers can do .05 layer heights, but the Anet A6 can't? I am interested to know if it is the stepper motors or the threaded rods or something. Maybe this is something I can do a small "test print" on? </p>

5625

Why the Anet A6 can't do .05 layer height

<p>I have an Anet A6 and once you get your settings dialled in, bed level accurate and belt tensioner correct you can do 0.05&nbsp;mm very well (although I for some reason went with 0.06&nbsp;mm and never tried the extra 0.01&nbsp;mm lower but it shouldn't have an issue). Note: I did this using all the stock parts so 0.4&nbsp;mm brass nozzle.</p> <p>I highly recommend you print and install a front Y axis frame brace and a Y axis belt tensioning mod as well as an X axis belt tensioner. It will allow you to print at these layer heights much more accurately if you can adjust the tension correctly.</p> <p>The kit out of the box makes it almost impossible to get good/correct tension on the belts.</p>

2018-03-14T20:41:20.770

|prusa-i3|

<p>I often tried to print sth in the prusa i3-mk3 but in most time he prints at the middle of the object more right or left. Can someone please tell me why that comes?</p>

5632

Why does the prusa i3 sometimes put the layer more right or left as they should be?

<p>I'm not sure if I read your question correctly, but if I do, <strong>what you are referring to is called "layer shifting"</strong> and looks like this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsHQ3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CsHQ3.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>This happens when the stepper motors fail to perform a step upon receiving the signal from the firmware. Since stepper motors do not have any way to know their <em>actual</em> position (differently, for example, than servos) they will keep on printing as if nothing happened, and thus the subsequent layers will be shifted of the amount of steps they missed to perform.</p> <p>Moving on to why this happens in <code>sth</code>... I don't own a MK3, but I take it that <code>sth</code> is short for <em>stealth mode</em>, the new silent mode that has been widely showcased in reviews and articles on the printer.</p> <p>That mode of operation is made possible by the <strong><a href="https://www.trinamic.com/products/integrated-circuits/details/tmc2130/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Trinamic TMC2130</a> stepper drivers</strong>. Normally these drivers monitor the power consumption of the steppers and are capable of deduce a missed step by sudden changes in that. If they do, the MK3 will actually re-home the X and Y axis to fix the problem and resume printing normally.</p> <p>However when operating in their <a href="https://www.trinamic.com/technology/adv-technologies/stealthchop/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StealthChop mode</a>, the TMC drivers provide less energy to the motor themselves (to keep them operating quietly) and - more importantly - are unable to detect missed steps. Less power will make much more likely that any sort of resistance to the print head movement will cause missed steps, the absence of detection will cause the printer to not even notice and cause layer shifting.</p> <p>Again, I don't own a MK3 and I have no direct experience with it, but <strong>I would suggest updating the firmware to the very last version</strong>: I read in an article some weeks ago that a recent version addressed exactly your problem, by progressively increasing the power output along the Z axis (as the likelihood of layer shifting increases with the height of the print).</p>

2018-03-15T21:47:08.043

|extruder|infill|

<p>We have a Prusa i3 MK2 and we've changed for a print with another colour material but when I pressed "load filament", it didn't make anything. </p> <p>Often after five times doing that the printer works. I don't have any pictures but the filament is in the hole and the printer holds it. However, it doesn't push it into the extruder and the remains of the old filament do not come out, so I wonder why the motors just stop and don't work. </p> <p>Sometimes there are no problems - sometimes more and sometimes less. I hope someone has the reason for this problem.</p>

5637

Prusa i3 MK2 doesn't accept the printing material

<p>I would agree with PR90, cutting the filament tip at a 45% angle before inserting might help. If the new material has required a different temperature to the previous, then you could have burnt the old material clogging the nozzle (take nozzle off by unscrewing, if it a brass hex nozzle) - if the new material requires a lower temperature, then it will not melt the materiel old pushing it out. </p> <p>See if you can go into Move Axis (manually) and then go to 0.01&nbsp;mm then Extrude and see if that works. </p> <p>If you hear a slipping or backlash sound coming from the extruder stepper motor, look at motor gear and check for clogging. </p> <p><em>Please check the heat requirements of the new and old materials</em></p>

2018-03-16T06:42:56.157

|software|printer-building|

<h3>My problem:</h3> <p>I need to connect to my 3D printer via the internet from an Android app (using IP address and API key).</p> <p>My 3D printer is based on Marlin firmware latest and connected to a Raspberry Pi running OctoPi. I don't want to use a router and port forward it, because the Raspberry will be connected to internet via a Wi-Fi hotspot.</p> <h3>My question:</h3> <p>Is it possible to control the printer using a cloud platform or a server (another Raspberry Pi) if my OctoPi Raspberry Pi can access the internet? If it is possible, how can one do it?</p> <p>Any suggestions or solutions are welcome.</p>

5638

Connect to 3D printer via internet without router

<p>There are a few solutions, but each one needs to match same criteria: an open network socket visible outside the local network.</p> <p>So from TCP/IP protocol theory, we don't even need to have an IP address to send a packet to another computer as we can use layer One which is just the MAC address to identify the receiver. But things become more complicated when we have to provide a link to two separate endpoints.</p> <p>Basic requirements:</p> <ol> <li>We need to know <em>public accessible</em> IP address and port that server is exposed (listening) on</li> <li>We can have a DNS entry that will be translated to public IP, but that assume that public IP is same all the time (or we have a dynDNS service)</li> </ol> <p>Solutions:</p> <ol> <li>Have the RPi exposed with public IP address and routed properly; </li> <li>Create a VPN bridge from RPi to your home/cloud network and connect Android to the same VPN;</li> <li>Do a port forwarding to RPi from public IP and expose that in the firewall.</li> </ol> <p>So at this point, if you don't have admin access to network devices then only solution '2' is viable, IMHO.</p>

2018-03-16T09:25:15.337

|3d-design|

<p>I have an STL file that I want to add a tribal tattoo to with the end goal of getting it printed in colour sandstone from Shapeways, or in full colour on an Mcor Arke at some point, but I'm not really sure where to go. </p> <p>I've looked at Microsoft Paint 3D. It's ok, but I cannot get the paint job symmetric. It outputs the .3mf format which the Arke will eventually handle with their Orange software, but it won't export into anything Shapeways will accept.</p> <p>I've looked at UV unwrapping in Blender, but it seems I have to create the image in another graphics program and then import it... but I can't really work out where the images will be applied to the object, and then when I'm done it seems I cannot export the bits I'm expecting. On the plus side I have the mirror function so I can just paint one side and it's symmetrical.</p> <p>I've looked briefly at Maya and 3Ds Max, but they are eyewateringly expensive, way out of my league.</p> <p>Blender with some form of layers for the image might be really useful so I can make the tattoo in bits and then apply them to parts. I've kind of seen how you can split the model into panels but my brain is struggling to get round this as it's really quite hit and miss... and exporting seems to be a problem, although DAE and the texture will go to Shapeways, assuming the DAE has the texture layout embedded. FBX seems to go into Paint 3D and then I can export it to 3MF for the Arke.</p> <p>Has anyone got any helping pointers for this confused noob?</p> <p>Thanks</p>

5639

Painting an STL file

<p>It is indeed more related to the <a href="https://blender.stackexchange.com">blender forum </a> than the 3d printing one. </p> <p>You can start by looking at <a href="https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/65853/can-i-paint-on-my-objects">this post</a> from blender.stackexchange.com which explain how to unwrap and paint on a 3d object. You can also paint the texture on a 2d software like <a href="https://www.gimp.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gimp</a> and then put it in the UV Image editor of Blender. Then you should be able to export your project (with the texture) in a suitable format for 3d print.</p>

2018-03-17T08:28:28.860

|prusa-i3|z-axis|hardware|lead-screw|anet-a8|

<p>I bought a new printer, and unfortunately the left nut for the lead screw isn't tapped.</p> <p>Does anyone know the thread size, w.r.t. both pitch and lead, of the lead screws?</p>

5641

Does anyone know the thread size (pitch and lead) of the Anet A8's lead screw?

<p>The pitch no matter the screw is the distance between the threads. The lead can be different based on a one or two start threads.</p>

2018-03-17T20:57:46.850

|ramps-1.4|stepper|wiring|nema-17|

<p>I have an <code>NEMA 17</code> stepper motor <code>17HS4401</code> and a RAMPS 1.4 driver unit.</p> <p>The motor pinouts are:</p> <pre><code>RED A+ BLUE A- GREEN B+ BLACK B- </code></pre> <p>while the RAMPS board has the following:</p> <pre><code>2B 2A 1A 1B </code></pre> <p>Could someone point me in the right direction? How can I connect the driver to the motor? I have a feeling I already messed things up.</p>

5646

How to connect a NEMA 17 stepper to RAMPS 1.4?

<p>There are very many combinations that will work. A bipolar stepper has 2 coils. Swapping the coils, or reversing the polarity of a coil, will simply cause the stepper to rotate in the opposite direction.</p> <p>On RAMPS, one coil should connect to 1A and 1B, whereas the other coil should connect to 2A and 2B.</p> <p>On the stepper, one coil is A+ and A-, the other coil is B+ and B-.</p> <p>A possible wiring is A+ to 1A, A- to 1B and B+ to 2A and B- to 2B, but there are 15 other possibilities. The only "wrong" way is one that connects a coil of the stepper to two different coil outputs on the RAMPS (so connecting, for instance, A+ to 1A and A- to 2A wouldn't work).</p>

2018-03-18T21:41:31.840

|prusa-i3|extruder|thermistor|

<p>I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall.</p> <p>I've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a "100K NTC Thermistor", so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!!</p> <p>Measuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside.</p> <p>Is it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type?</p> <p><a href="http://www.geeetech.com/assembled-mk8-extruder-p-857.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Documentation for MK8</a></p>

5649

MK8 extruder showing 500+ °C on temperature sensor?

<p>If your printer is a cheap one that uses a ribbon cable or other combined cables, verify your thermal sensor's polarity. I know, I know - it's a resistor (in most cases) and that means there's no such thing as polarity. Bear with me - I just helped a friend diagnose his printer (Geeetech, for the record) for showing 500C on one sensor and 'def' on the other, after replacing the mainboard with a different/more capable model. Turns out, they SHARE PINS, which suddenly makes polarity important. Swap the pins in the connector, and it might just work. First time I've run into this. We swapped only the Ext0 sensor and left the bed disconnected - Ext0 read normal, so we swapped both, and everything's been perfect since.</p>

2018-03-21T11:40:05.433

|prusa-i3|diy-3d-printer|z-axis|z-probe|

<p>I am building a <a href="https://andypi.co.uk/2017/09/17/dolly-build-notes-prusa-i3-mk2-clone-3d-printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">dolly</a> and I am confused as to which proximity sensor to use. </p> <p>Should I go for M8 or M12 and 5&nbsp;V or 6-36&nbsp;V? </p> <p>What should be the best detecting distance? Should it be 2/4/8&nbsp;mm. Which one should I select?</p>

5660

Which proximity sensor to use?

<p>Duet3D has a very nice <a href="https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_a_Z_probe" rel="nofollow noreferrer">overview</a>. It totally depends on your demands. e.g., accuracy, different build surfaces, tolerance. Personly I realy like the <a href="https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/shop" rel="nofollow noreferrer">piezo</a>. It actually uses your nozzle to 'touch' the bed. So 0 height is absoluty 0. This eliminates the need for Z-offset.</p>

2018-03-21T14:30:39.123

|g-code|

<p>Harking back to the days of "singing disk drives," I am wondering if anyone's written music to be performed on a 3D printer. Most of us have noticed in passing that the servo motors for X and Y drive generate a different pitch depending on motion speed. With some care and experimentation, one could write g-code to produce not only a tone but even a 2-tone chord. So -- has this been done? Does anyone want to do so? (Note that there's no need to simultaneously produce a print, but that would be even classier).</p>

5666

Music from the printer?

<p>I actually did this, on my Malyan M150. </p> <p>After not that much experimentation at all it turned out that the frequency of the produced tone scales linearly with the speed of the motors. Due to the nature of the way humans perceive music, the actual frequencies do not matter at all, just the relative difference in frequency between the tones. This means that it is actually really easy to let a 3D printer play a tune, you just have to make sure that when the next tone needs to have a frequency that is for example 20% higher than the last one, the motor needs to move 20% faster, no need to actually measure at which speeds the printer produces which tones. </p> <p>One of the main issues turned out to be the maximum speed of the motors, which wasn't high enough for some of the higher notes, but this issue could be solved by multiplying all the speeds by a number lower than 1, thereby lowering the required speeds while still maintaining the original melody. Playing two tones at the same time proved to be a bit too difficult for my not that great programming skills, while not being worth the effort because somehow there was quite a large difference in volume between the motors. </p> <p>In the end, I made a MATLAB script that converts MIDI files to G-code with the following result: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPV-TolORK4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D-printer playing popcorn song</a></p>

2018-03-21T23:50:50.940

|print-quality|print-material|

<p>I'm new at 3D Printing. I made a model of what I want to print using blender, but it's really small with a little system that must be very precise to work.</p> <p>What I have is like a hollow cylinder with a diameter of 11mm, and a thickness of 1mm. This goes inside a counter part, that is carve with the cylinder shape, but with a little extra gap so it can rotate like an axis. Maybe this picture explains better:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/trZRu.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/trZRu.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>And this should be the front view of the counter part:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNBg.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNBg.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?</p> <p>What hardware and material should I use to do this?</p> <p>Thanks in advance. Sorry for bad english, I hope you understand!</p> <p><strong>EDIT:</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD2N1.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD2N1.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>(6mm is the depth of the hole)</p>

5669

Is possible print this level of detail?

<p>It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic:</p> <blockquote> <p>So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis.</p> </blockquote> <p>"hard enough" is a mysterious quantity. What is the intended application? The load of the axis, the rotation speed, the medium in which the part will be in, its operating temperature... they all affect the answer.</p> <blockquote> <p>And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly?</p> </blockquote> <p>Reading at the question and the comments, I think you may have the wrong representation model in your mind. There are four different concepts at work here:</p> <ul> <li><em>Accuracy</em> is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. </li> <li><em>Tolerance</em> is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.</li> <li><em>Allowance</em> is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.</li> <li><em>Clearance</em> is the intentional space between two parts.</li> </ul> <p>So: what you want to achieve for the object to rotate is to have at least some <em>clearance</em> once you have the parts printed. Therefore, you want to design your part with an <em>allowance</em> which is at least as much as the <em>accuracy</em>.</p> <p>Note that a machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy. So you must design your part with a <em>tolerance</em> equal or greater than your printer <em>accuracy</em>.</p> <p>The correct number will therefore be entirely dependant from the specific printer you will be using. You can find out the specific <em>accuracy</em> of a printer by printing a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Tolerance%20test&amp;sa=&amp;dwh=815ab32c4d0733c" rel="noreferrer">tolerance test</a> (I know, I know... why isn't it called "accuracy test"?)</p> <p>See this <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5187/9134">unrelated answer</a> - from wich I took the above definitions - for learning more about the above and a concrete example.</p> <blockquote> <p>If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?</p> </blockquote> <p>I hope it is now clear why this question makes no sense: <em>clearance</em> is a variable which depends from <em>accuracy</em> (and the application), not the other way around.</p> <blockquote> <p>I can't add so much gap because I have really limited space</p> </blockquote> <p>This comment too is incorrect: the "gap" (clearance) can be very very small. You have to have the correct <em>allowance</em> in your design, and allowance will <em>not</em> intrinsically make a part larger.</p> <blockquote> <p>What hardware and material should I use to do this?</p> </blockquote> <p>Again: this is entirely dependent from your application (load, operating temperature, orientation, speed...)</p> <p>A consumer-grade FDM printer (easy accessible, cheap and cheap to operate) will allow you to print a rotating part, a SLA/DLP printer (less common, toxic resins, more expensive to operate) will allow to print the same part with different materials and tighter tolerances...</p> <blockquote> <p>I don't worry about breaking, but it cannot be flexible</p> </blockquote> <p>Again: without an explanaton of the intended use (or the numbers associated to it) it's impossible to answer this comment conclusively. Resins tend to harden to more rigid solids, but you have thrown around tolerances as small as 0.05mm in your writing, and over 12mm of axis, that is a deviation of less than 0.5% from "perfectly straight". I'm hard pressed to think you will find a printable material with such a rigidity.</p>

2018-03-23T01:26:52.520

|print-material|

<p>Is there any commonly printed plastic which I can buy that might be transparent to UV light? </p> <p>I wish to print a mould, then pour in my plastic which requires a UV light to activate the curing process. </p>

5674

Transparent Plastic

<p>Have you tried printing with Form labs clear resin ? </p> <p>( This is assuming you have access to a desktop SLA like the Form2+ or Form 1 )</p> <p>The printed part itself gets hardened after exposure to uv light and actually can increase the life time of your mould .</p> <p>I have been using the Form labs Form 2+ a lot recently for small moulds and casting them with Polyurethane . They work amazing and the precision of the mould is high due to 0.05mm layer resolution that is achievable .</p> <p>Once hardened the UV light easily passes through it and does not degrade the part at all . </p> <p>Here is the material data sheet <a href="https://formlabs.com/media/upload/Clear-DataSheet.pdf" rel="noreferrer">https://formlabs.com/media/upload/Clear-DataSheet.pdf</a></p> <p>You can easily get a clear resin print done through a local 3D printing service bureau that you can find using 3D hubs . </p> <p>Prices for printing on a formlabs are comparable to FDM 3D printing , it really just depends on your supplier .</p> <p><strong>If the above doesn't cut it then ,</strong></p> <p>Use DSM Somos® WaterClear Ultra 10122 , please check below link and corresponding data sheet for technical specifications .</p> <p><a href="https://www.dsm.com/products/somos/en_US/products/offerings-somos-water-clear.html" rel="noreferrer">https://www.dsm.com/products/somos/en_US/products/offerings-somos-water-clear.html</a></p> <p>This can only be printed on a 3Ds systems viper , Envision tech preform series or other industrial 3D printers . </p> <p>Again you can head to 3D hubs or call up the closest industrial 3D printing service bureau and ask them for the above material . They should be able to hook you up easily .</p>

2018-03-23T09:54:50.250

|ramps-1.4|anet-a8|wiring|microsd|sd|

<p>I want to upgrade my Anet A8's motherboard (the stock one is broken anyway, see: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor">Anet A8 reading 739&#176;C from the extruder thermistor!</a>) to the RAMPS 1.4, without having to get a new LCD/microSD module. I am thinking of getting both a smart adapter and sdramps, then maybe plug the sdramps and the stock Anet A8 LCD into the smart adapter, but I am not sure whether the sdramps module has a different pinout than the RAMPS smart controller, which is what the smart adapter is made for.</p> <p>Can someone confirm whether they have the same pinouts or not, or give me some alternatives to my idea?</p>

5676

Plug sdramps module and Anet A8 LCD together into RAMPS smart adapter

<p>The Anet A8 uses a simple LCD with 5 buttons, the problem is that the buttons do not use digital pin signals, instead analog pins are used. Based on the pressed button, with corresponding resistance the firmware knows which button is pressed. The RAMPS smart adapter uses digital pins, so <strong>the Anet LCD is not compatible with the smart adapter</strong>, you may wan't to opt for a cheap Chinese 12864 LCD smart controller, they are about $8, they are compatible.</p> <hr> <p>The topic <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6030/connecting-anet-a8-2004-display-to-mks-gen-l">Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L</a> shows you to hook up the Anet A8 LCD to a RAMPS board. You <strong>do not use the smart adapter</strong>, instead <strong>you use AUX2</strong>. You only have to change 2 wires (interchange them on AUX2) and you will be able to use the display. The reason you cannot use the smart adapter is that the 5 button display requires analog pins, which are not available on the smart adapter, but are available on the AUX2 header.</p>

2018-03-26T16:06:20.553

|marlin|ramps-1.4|motor|stepper-driver|homing|

<p><a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2</a></p> <p>I tried to illustrate my problem in the videos above, two of them show the weird movement and the other shows me clicking on the home button repeatedly.</p> <p>Some Info:</p> <ul> <li>Marlin 1.1.8 or 2.0.0 (same problem in both)</li> <li>Robotdyn RAMPS 1.4</li> <li>0.9 angle stepper motors</li> <li>DRV8825 drivers configured at 0.8V Vref</li> <li>Anet A2 Plus stock for all the rest</li> </ul>

5695

Weird Movement and not homing

<p>The problem was the logic of the endstops that were reversed</p>

2018-03-27T15:30:40.190

|pla|

<p>I have this clogging problem on my 3D printer that I am having a really hard time to solve. I am a hobbiest so in no way am I a professional with regards to 3D printers. I also know that this is a popular issue and I have tried a lot of the proposed solutions (going through a lot of PLA filament and failed prints) to no avail. I will try to describe the problem and what I have tried to solve it.</p> <p>First the issue:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OremM.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OremM.jpg" alt="Removed hortend to show the clog"></a></p> <p>This shows how the filament clogs. The next image shows the assembled printer head for reference.: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhioD.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhioD.jpg" alt="Assembled printer head"></a></p> <p>This is how the print looks when it fails:<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcvdG.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcvdG.jpg" alt="Failed print"></a></p> <p>I have tried the following: - Adjusting the temperate between 190 up to 220 for the PLA filament. Everything trying a print with it. - Doing a thorough cleaning of the nozzle (Acetone soak, wire brush, guitar string etc.) - Checking the Teflon pipe inside the tube if it is clear and ensuring that the edges allow the filament to pass through. - Check if the cooling fans work well to ensure cooling of the whole assembly (they work, they aren't jammed etc.) - Dissambling the printer head and putting it back together.</p> <p>I have printed with the printer before without a problem. I printed PETG a few times to get that working and the results were decent. When I returned to PLA this issue started and no matter what I change on the profile it won't work. I have tried adjusting feedrate, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, temperature, fan speeds to name but a few things.</p> <p>I have a Cura profile I can upload if that will help. Any advise would be much appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a while now and really need some options.</p>

5706

Filament clogging just above feeding tube - Duplicator 6

<p>that looks like heat creep.<br> heat creep is the result of in too much heat in the hot end creeping its way into the cold end. and results in a gradual clogs mid print.</p> <p>to combat heat creep you need to sink that heat elsewhere and dissipate it.<br> this is where a heatsink and fan come into play.<br> the heatsink should be in direct contact with the throat mount/clamp, giving the heat more space to dissipate, and that dissipation is aided by the fan.</p>

2018-03-29T14:10:50.857

|calibration|anet-a8|y-axis|

<p>I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3" x 6" box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other.</p> <p>I'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it).</p> <p>Does this sound like a sound plan?</p>

5724

Anet A8 - X and Y axis not square - how to fix?

<p>To correct x-y axis alignment to 90 degrees: Loosen the nuts on the two threaded rods at one end and in the middle. Lower the Z-axis to its lowest level. Place a square block of wood or metal so that it rests on the table and is snug against the X-axis rods. Slide the table so that either its rear or front edge is under the edge of the block. There you can clearly see any misalignment by comparing the edge of the block and the edge of the table. Now the 'fun' part: rack the entire assembly, pulling the diagonal corners to square the table and block. You may have to tape the assembly down to keep it in place while you spin the threaded rod nuts back into place....gently,then carefully snug the nuts while watching the table and block to insure they stay put!</p>

2018-03-29T20:17:44.827

|troubleshooting|wiring|anet-a6|

<p>I recently bought an Anet A6 and decided to assemble it today. When I plugged in the power, I don't get any sign of life from the printer. No lights, no bleeps, no fans which are starting to blow.</p> <p>I checked the motherboard and it receives power from the adapter (I live in Europe, the Netherlands, so the voltage is 220V) but nothing happens.</p> <p>Can someone help me out?</p> <p>I added some pictures of the wiring for references. Display cables are correctly set (J3 to J3 and LCD to LCD).</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjM1p.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjM1p.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9wmi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9wmi.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

5729

Anet A6 - First time assembled, won't turn on

<p>Welcome to 3d Printing! as this is a first day of the printer there could be a list of items...</p> <p>First thing first: disconnect all peripherals, so we can test mainboard.</p> <p>Before connecting PSU we can connect mainboard via usb and see if it starts (I will probably use a power bank in that case to avoid burning USB (worse case scenario)). Then you can use cura or another host program to connect to the printer and validate firmware. If the printer is not recognized we can reflash the firmware using provided app or ArduinoIDE .</p> <p>If all looks good we can check PSU.</p> <ol> <li>please check output voltage from power supply unit (shall be 12V) (on the terminals, there is a small voltage regulator on the lefthand side)</li> <li>then double check polarity </li> <li>connect power to mainboard</li> <li>check if we have same voltage on mainboard terminals</li> <li>then check if we have 12v on the fan terminal (40 * 10 fan shall run all the time on the hotend)</li> </ol> <p>if that is done and we have power provided to the mainboard then we need to check for 5V that powers the arduino mega2560 (that could indicate a faulty power regulator)</p> <p>Select one of the available sockets and measure voltage on VCC and GND pins. If we have 5V then we can connect pheriperials one by one, always switching off PSU and disconnecting USB.</p> <p>If one of the underlying components is faulty then you will see straight after powering the mainboard.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Azwzl.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Azwzl.png" alt="reprap pinouts"></a></p> <p><a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Megatronics_3.0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">image source</a></p>

2018-03-31T22:48:49.780

|adhesion|

<p>I have a simple printer bot metal with a heated bed, the heated bed I am not using. I am using conductive pla by protopasta </p> <p>The conductive pla is not that strong, so when I take my pieces off the board, sometimes they break. The only time it appears to be invincibly strong is when it sticks to the bed plate! I cannot get the skirt off the bed plate, no matter what I try</p> <ul> <li>a razor blade does not work, even when the bed isn’t heated and after dumping a bunch of acetone on the board</li> <li>using no skirt does not work, as the printer clogs itself</li> <li>it is difficult enough to remove to the point that printing itself isn’t fun</li> <li>when scratching it off, the pieces only chip, because they stick better to the bed than they do to themselves (unlike PLA)</li> </ul> <p>What’s a good way to remove a conductive pla skirt from one of the beds? The skirt is the initial outline a printer lays down, it is very thin</p>

5736

Removing protopasta conductive PLA skirt from a bed

<p>I think the setting having the most significant effect would be to increase the Z-height by 0.05-0.1mm so that the skirt is not "sandwiched" against the bed like typical first layers in FDM. This should reduce the adhesion enough for you to remove the skirt from the bed without damage. </p> <p>Alternatively, you could also increase the skirt extrusion width if possible (more material=stronger) and/or print another layer of skirt on top (skirt layers=2).</p>

2018-04-02T21:02:54.000

|ultimaker-cura|g-code|support-structures|

<p>Ultimaker Cura offers a platform support type of “<em>touching buildplate</em>” which enables the printer to only make a raft for parts of the object that should be touching the build plate. It also offers “<em>everywhere</em>” for any object that might be hanging over the build plate.</p> <p>I have a need to only offer support for overhangs up to a certain z height, such any overhang located at a z-point of 4&nbsp;mm or below. Is there a software that will enable this, either as a setting/addition to Ultimaker Cura or just a G-code export for Pronterface?</p>

5743

Platform support up to a certain Z height in Ultimaker Cura/G-code

<p>As an alternative, look into 3D modelling tools which allow you to add your own support towers to the model itself. Do that, then set your slicing tool to "no support" or equivalent. </p>

2018-04-03T18:48:05.973

|diy-3d-printer|delta|open-source|

<p>For example, to make a DIY cartesian 3d printer you <strong>could</strong> use/do the following:</p> <ul> <li><p>Create G-code using a program of your choice.</p></li> <li><p>Load it into Universal G-code Sender (GRBL).</p></li> <li><p>Pass it into an Arduino with GRBL.</p></li> <li><p>The arduino can pass the instructions to the drivers through a GRBL arduino uno shield.</p></li> <li><p>The drivers will control the steppers.</p></li> </ul> <p>If you want to make a DYI delta 3d printer, which point of this whole process needs to be altered in order for the delta printer to work properly? Is there an existing open source software for delta printers/cncs?</p> <p>EDIT: This question could be asked about any kind of non-cartesian 3d printer, including Delta, SCARA, Polar, etc.</p>

5748

At which point does a delta 3d printer change the G-code in order to work in its non-cartesian design?

<p>Every 3D printer or machine tool that is commanded through G-code must interpret the G-code in terms of the particular mechanism. Even a Cartesian machine in which there is a clear X, Y, and Z axis, each with independent actuators, interprets the G-code and adjusts for the scale factors, considers the current kinetic energy and the implicit changes in the kinetic energy, and constructs a move plan to implement the G-code. This involves considering the velocity limits, the acceleration, the jerk, and possible higher derivatives. This plan is passed to the motor drivers, and the mechanism responds.</p> <p>A delta mechanism is really the same. The difference is that there is not a distinct X, Y, and Z axis, even though the commands in the G-code are given in Cartesian coordinates.</p> <p>My second 3D printer is one I designed using standard hot ends and extruders. I'm using the reprap firmware, and haven't adequately studied the kinematics.</p> <p>My first milling machine, however, was a delta machine with 3 additional degrees of freedom -- a machine style generically called a parallel-kinematics inverted Stewart platform. In my kinematics code, I plan a movement by breaking the Cartesian command into small enough segments that the non-linearity of the 6-axis movement space never exceeds the tiny error of the actuators. I developed a CPU-intensive but effective calibration system that estimates the errors that I introduced when building it, and so the mechanical performance is good enough. The machine itself is a 5'x6'x6' frame of welded steel, so it is pretty dimensionally stable.</p> <p>A delta 3D printer is simpler because there is no control over the roll, pitch, and yaw of the hot end. Unfortunately, not being able to control also means that you are subject to whatever errors are introduced in the construction.</p> <p>"Bed-leveling" of a delta printer consists of estimating some of the machine-unique parameters and compensating for their effects: cup, bowl, ripple, and tilt. Applying these adjustments is done in the kinematics code as a further modification of the G-code Cartesian parameters to the leg-space delta mechanism motions.</p> <p>TL;DR</p> <p>The G-code is not modified, but the parameters expressed in the G-code are adjusted and interpreted in light of the machine kinematics so that the intention of the G-code can be faithfully followed.</p>

2018-04-05T17:17:46.723

|nozzle|anet-a6|

<p>How do I know what nozzle to get for my Anet A6 printer? I want to get some hardened nozzles because I would love to print with some glow in the dark filament, but I know that eats up brass nozzles fast. But there is so many thread differences so I don't know which one to get, or even what thread the Anet A6 is. Could I have some help finding the thread type and what hardened nozzles would be recommended?</p>

5757

Threads for nozzle (Anet A6 extruder)

<p>look for MK8 or V6 nozzles that are for 1.75mm filament.</p> <p>but to answer your question the exact threading is M6 x 1mm thread pitch</p> <p>both MK8 and e3d v6 nozzles use m6 x 1mm pitch<br> Source: manual measurement of both my brass mk8 and stainless steel v6 nozzle</p>

2018-04-06T02:47:24.460

|heated-bed|

<p>I hear that heated beds can help with removing finished prints, but not all printers have them! </p> <ul> <li>Is this a nice to have or must have feature? </li> <li>Are there any downsides to heated beds?</li> </ul>

5760

Why is a heated bed important?

<p>There is no simple answer. I will only cover the three main filaments: PLA, ABS, and PETG.</p> <ul> <li><p><strong>ABS</strong>: </p> <ul> <li>ABS likes to warp, and dislikes breezes and temperature changes. so a heat bed is required, as is some way to keep breezes off and heat in (I use a plastic tarp over my printer). </li> <li>Although there <em>are</em> print surfaces that will claim to stop the warp. but a print surface can not change the nature of the filament. </li> <li>A heated bed is pretty much required for ABS</li> </ul></li> <li><p><strong>PLA</strong>: </p> <ul> <li>PLA is currently the most popular filament, it has low warping tendencies and it likes breezes, and prints really easy. </li> <li>PLA does not need a heated bed, but if the part is big it may peel off the print surface. </li> <li>A heated bed is optional but will help with any warping you may encounter.</li> </ul></li> <li><p><strong>PETG</strong>: </p> <ul> <li>PETG is described as combining the printability of PLA and the strength of ABS. </li> <li>PETG is quite stringy and has a higher slightly chance of warping then PLA. </li> <li>A heated bed is recommended, and will help keep it from warping.</li> </ul></li> </ul> <p>Now, for print removal, a heated bed can help as well:</p> <ul> <li>Most PLA prints, especially <em>smaller</em> ones will remove just fine without a heated bed, </li> <li><em>Medium</em> prints having a removal tool will get those off </li> <li>A heated bed is really helpful for removing <em>large</em> prints or prints that won't release using other methods.</li> </ul>

2018-04-06T05:18:29.500

|diy-3d-printer|ramps-1.4|power-supply|

<p>I want to run two stepper motors using Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4. But, somehow I burned the Arduino while I was connecting the motor and plugging the board to the computer.</p> <p>Can I plug external power supply and USB connection to the computer at the same time?</p> <h3>Additional info from comments</h3> <p>I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Polulo red stepper drivers and Arduino Mega R3. I am only using two Nema 17 stepper motors and not using any hotbed or anything else other than the two stepper motors for the x and y axes. I am feeding 11.9 V supply to the RAMPS board. When powered on, can I plug the USB to my computer?</p> <p>Suppose I have connected two motors on the X and Y outputs of the RAMPS, and the external power supply is on, then can I connect my Arduino to my PC using USB? Will it burn my board or not?</p> <p>My only trouble is that when the board is on load, connecting the USB to computer motors would take power by Arduino pins instead of the RAMPS external supply.</p>

5762

Arduino and Ramps powering up

<p>I had a similar issue building my Prusa i3 Mk2s clone. I was constantly hooking &amp; unhooking my Arduino from my PC while the printer was plugged into the mains. At some point it had enough &amp; it released some &quot;magic smoke&quot;. Later on I found out this was the power regulator on the Arduino.</p> <p>You shouldn't <strong>need</strong> to plug in the USB and the external power to the Arduino at the same time, but if you did, it is smart enough to only use one.</p> <p>That being said, by default the RAMPS passes 12V straight to the Arduino in order to power it (the Vin pin).</p>

2018-04-06T11:45:29.320

|heated-bed|fdm|safety|wiring|

<p>I'm building a 40x40x40cm corexy and I am quite impatient so I want the heated to reach the target temperature as fast as possible, so I ordered a <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400X400mm-1200W-220V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-Pad-for-Huge-Mega-Cube-3D/32550597606.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Io1mMV" rel="noreferrer">Keenovo silicone heater</a> It is a 220VAC 1200Watt bed, so I really want to make sure that it is safe to use. I also bought a <a href="http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/series-1-240-ac-panel-mount.pdf" rel="noreferrer">Crydom D2450</a> SSR.</p> <p>Could someone tell me if the wiring in the diagram I made below is safe?</p> <p>Do I need to put a fuse or some other kind of safety?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dd7TA.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dd7TA.jpg" alt="wiring"></a></p>

5765

Mains powered heatbed safety

<p>The diagram you show is in compliance with the manufacturers' specifications so far as connections go. Make sure any wire you supply is rated for the voltage and current intended for use.<br> If there is not a safety cover (typically clear plastic) over the junctions where you'll be attaching wires, you should add a cover, or alternatively put the entire relay inside a UL-rated box with stress-release feedthrus for all the wires.<br> It never hurts to add a fuse or breaker in the source hot feed. I'd recommend slow-blow. <strong>NEVER fuse the return side, since a fault or blown fuse here will leave everything live and floating</strong></p> <p>That said, this is more of an electronics question than a 3D printer question, so you might want to wander over to electronics.stackexchange for information on general design safety for high-current systems like this. </p>

2018-04-06T14:59:52.603

|ventilation|

<p>With hot plastic being laid down layer after layer, I am worried about fumes. Should I only print in a well ventilated work space? Should I add additional ventilation?</p>

5768

Should I print in a well ventilated area?

<p>The short answer is: <strong>yes, it is always a good idea to print in a well-ventilated area</strong>. The longer answer can be articulated as follows:</p> <h3>Definition of &quot;fumes&quot;</h3> <p>&quot;Fumes&quot; is a fuzzy word that from a chemical/physical perspective includes at least three different things:</p> <ul> <li><strong>Vapour</strong> - the gas phase of a substance</li> <li><strong>Aerosol</strong> - a airborne suspension of tiny particles of liquid, solid, or both</li> <li><strong>Smoke</strong> - particles and gases emitted when a material undergoes combustion or pyrolysis (so really: a smoke is a combination of <em>vapours</em> and <em>aerosols</em> too... but the combustion/pyrolysis will have changed the very nature of the material, so it will be &quot;vapours and aerosols of <em>a different substance</em>&quot;</li> </ul> <h3>Interactions with the human body</h3> <p>Each of the above has a different way of interacting with the human body. The list of possible interactions is huge, and out-of-scope for this answer, but just to mention a few obvious ones:</p> <ul> <li>Vapours tend to enter cells by osmotic pressure and can have carcinogenic effects by either attacking the genome of the cell or by disrupting its metabolic processes (think: benzene in car fuel)</li> <li>Aerosols can trigger the immune system, and in return have the body develop allergies or autoimmune reactions.</li> <li>Aerosols can deposit their particles on the cellular membrane, making it impossible for it to operate correctly and eventually fail (like neurons failing to transmit electrical impulses, for example)</li> <li>...</li> </ul> <h3>Composition of filaments</h3> <p>Modern filaments are a combination of different substances: the basic plastic (PLA, ABS, PETG...) that gives the name to the filament is almost always mixed with <em>other plastics</em> and additives that change its physical characteristics.</p> <p>In some cases, the filament is host to <em>particles of other materials</em> (like wood, metals or phosphorescent compounds).</p> <p>Each of the different materials have different transition and critical and flash points (the temperatures at which they will become vapour and ignite respectively), and different physical properties which in turn will affect differently the size of the particles in the aerosol coming out of the printer.</p> <h3>Conclusion</h3> <p>The bottom-line is that it is close to impossible to have a <em>complete</em> understanding of how a given &quot;fume&quot; affects human health.</p> <p>Typically the safety of a substance is tested in a lab by directly observing its effect on cells, or by performing epidemiological studies in a population, if the exposure data to a given substance is known.</p> <p>When people comment on PLA being &quot;safe&quot; for example, they typically refer to studies that tested inert, cold, chemically pure PLA. But the <em>fumes</em> of a PLA filament will probably not be inert, nor cold, nor be exclusively PLA.</p> <p>Additionally, it has to be observed that it is much easier to rule a filament harmful than safe: for it to be considered harmful it is sufficient to know that one of its components is harmful (for ABS that is typically studies showing the adverse affect of ABS aerosols on health). For it to be deemed safe, one must know that <em>all</em> if its components are safe, but most filament do not go through the rigorous testing required to ascertain that.</p> <p>In conclusion, <strong>it is always a good idea to get rid of the fumes from 3D printing regardless of the type filament being used</strong>. The ideal solution is a printing enclosure maintaining negative pressure, but an enclosure with air filtering or a well ventilated room are also good options (ventilation can have adverse effects on printing quality though, due to drafts and their cooling effect).</p>

2018-04-07T17:56:22.463

|g-code|anet-a8|

<p>I am currently printing the QTrainer aircraft from 3DLabPrint on my Anet A8, via the supplied i3-compatible gcode files.</p> <p>So far, everything has printed fine, but the main undercarriage part tries to print off the left hand side of the bed by about 5mm. </p> <p>I have tried manually adding an <code>M206 X-10</code> line to the gcode file, just after <code>G28 ; home all</code>, however this has not had any effect:</p> <p><code>G90 M83 M106 S0 M140 S65 M190 S65 M104 S220 T0 M109 S220 T0 G28 ; home all M206 X-10 ; added by me G1 E-0.8000 F1800 G1 Z0.200 F1002 ; layer 1, Z = 0.2 T0 ; tool H0.200 W0.450 ; skirt G1 X9.382 Y10.533 F6000 G1 E0.8000 F540 G1 X10.536 Y10.537 E0.0388 F1440 ... </code></p> <p>However this does not work and I'm not clear on whether I am using this gcode command correctly, or whether my printer simply doesn't support that command.</p> <p>Is there another way I can apply an X-offset to the gcode file (or printer) to move it a few cm to the right of the print area?</p> <p>As I do not own Simplify3D and cannot currently afford it, re-slicing the STL files is unfortunately not an option.</p> <p>Unfortunately there is no X-adjustment on the X limit switch (although I suppose I could temporarily tape something to the print head, so that it activates the switch sooner?).</p> <p>My Anet A8 currently runs stock firmware, hooked up to OctoPrint and I have access to a Macintosh desktop computer.</p>

5775

Apply X-offset to gcode (re-slicing not possible)

<p>You can use <code>G92</code> to change the coordinates the machine "thinks" it's at. If just after homing, you apply</p> <pre><code>G92 X-10 </code></pre> <p>the machine now thinks it's at X = -10, while in reality it's at X = 0. This results in everything thereafter behaving as if it is shifted in the positive X direction by 10 mm (since if you then commanded a move to X = 1 the machine would move to what is physically X = 11).</p>

2018-04-07T22:06:33.297

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|tevo-tarantula|

<p>Recently I noticed that Cura always is giving me less printing time than the print itself takes on my TEVO Tarantula with Marlin firmware.</p> <p>The time difference is about 15&nbsp;%, at requested 50&nbsp;mm/s printing speed.</p> <p><strong>How could I verify real printing speed?</strong></p>

5778

How to determine real printing speed (TEVO Tarantula/Cura)?

<p>I use a Anet A8 which has a system acceleration and jerk of 400 and 20 When i slice with Cura, then I use a gcode without acceleration control, because the printer does this by its own and a combination with the gcode acceleration/jerk control gets me some strange behavior (e.g. sometimes some ultra slow movement in fine detail sections, or random nearly stopped movement) But to get a realistic approximation for the print time, i enable the acceleration/jerk control in cura and then I get a really good result, that is really close to the real values. </p> <p>And to be more specific to your question: It is e.g. 50mm/s >>maximum&lt;&lt; speed you can set, not a exactly and absolut speed. If you know your printer you can also experiment with the following approach: Set the max speed really high, so that the max material volume per time is the limiting factor and set the acceleration and jerk as low as needed for good results. So that your printer will accelerate on long lines as long as it can up to the point it has to deaccelerate for the next corner. </p>

2018-04-09T06:13:29.317

|ramps-1.4|stepper-driver|usb|

<p>I have a RAMPS 1.4 with Arduino Mega 2560 with 2 steppers connected to an external power supply using Polulo stepper drivers. The steppers are for X and Y axis movement. This external power supply is set to 12 volts and power is applied. I have configured the marlin firmware also.</p> <p>Can I connect my setup to my PC using USB when the external power is also on? If i connect the USB while the external power is off, do the motors take power from USB? Will this will burn my board?</p>

5782

Can I use external stepper motor power and USB connection

<p>The motors are powered from 12/24V external power supply, so the motors will not be powered. the ramps <a href="https://download.lulzbot.com/AO-100/hardware/electronics/RAMPS_1.4/RAMPS_1-4manual.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Schematics</a> shows the connection diagram and the power is provided via the VMot pin/12V.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1tLn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1tLn.png" alt="Stepper diagram"></a></p>

2018-04-11T10:22:31.987

|extruder|bowden|wade|

<p>I am planning to buy 4 hotends (e3d clones I assume), but I am wondering if <strong>the Bowden (long distance) be able to be used as Wade (direct extruder)?</strong>. When the pneumatic fitting is removed there is a very similar filament drive to the throat/heat-brak and the collar size is same as wade. As per attached pictures, I think that could be possible. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJcny.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJcny.jpg" alt="front view"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XS7yz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XS7yz.jpg" alt="hotend"></a></p>

5795

Can I use Bowden hotend instead of Wade for a direct extrusion?

<p>You can use any of them, however the adaptor will be different to make it fit on your printer. I´m using the J-head on direct drive by removing the pneumatic connector; the distance from top to filament hole is close to 4mm, but does not affect the feeding. If the cylinder hasn't the pneumatic connector is possible to print a cap to mount the connector and make it remote drive</p>

2018-04-11T11:44:13.350

|z-axis|stepper|microstepping|

<p>I have a Cartesian style 3D printer (FLSUN Cube), with two Z-axis stepper motors (1.8°, 200 steps/revolution) with T8x8 lead screw (8mm / 2mm pitch with 4 starts), and currently they are using 1/16 microstepping.</p> <p>As I know, microstepping is an unstable state and can affect accuracy of the Z-axis. But many of modern 3D printers (like CR-10, Prusa i3 Mk2s and others) use similar microstepping for the Z-axis.</p> <ul> <li>Is it possible to use full steps? </li> <li>Does it improve accuracy if I use compatible layer height (like 0.04mm, 0.08mm, 0.16mm, etc) for my printer with 0.04mm per full step on Z axis?</li> </ul>

5796

Full steps mode for Z axis stepper controller

<p>Focussing on the questions at hand:</p> <blockquote> <p>Is it possible to use full steps?</p> </blockquote> <p>This depends on your printer board. Many boards use dip switches to select the (micro) stepping mode of the stepper driver. E.g. a <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#Microstepping" rel="noreferrer">RUMBA board</a> has dip switches located underneath the stepper driver boards (e.g. DRV8825 or A4988). Sometimes you also see jumper caps. <strong>The answer is both yes as is no</strong> as it depends on the board you are using.</p> <blockquote> <p>Does it improve accuracy if I use compatible layer height (like 0.04mm, 0.08mm, 0.16mm, etc) for my printer with 0.04mm per full step on Z axis?</p> </blockquote> <p>Increasing the number of microsteps results in reduced <em>incremental</em> torque (for full step this is 100%, for 16 micro steps this <a href="https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/" rel="noreferrer">drops to about 10%</a>; this implies that a micro step requested by the controller may not effectively lead to an actual step as it cannot overcome the torque to turn the shaft). So highly loaded steppers could result in positioning errors. Resolution increases but accuracy will actually suffer. Furthermore, <code>Few, if any, stepper motors have a pure sinusoidal torque vs. shaft position and all have higher order harmonics that in fact distort the curve and affect accuracy.</code> according to <a href="https://www.micromo.com/technical-library/stepper-motor-tutorials/microstepping-myths-and-realities" rel="noreferrer">this source</a>. On the other hand micro stepping makes rotation go smoother (major advantage, see <a href="http://www.machinedesign.com/basics-design/microstepping" rel="noreferrer">source</a>). Interesting literature (must read) is <a href="https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/" rel="noreferrer">this test</a> and <a href="https://www.micromo.com/media/wysiwyg/Technical-library/Stepper/6_Microstepping%20WP.pdf" rel="noreferrer">this paper</a>. </p> <p><strong>The answer to this question also depends on the situation;</strong> when you load the steppers very highly, using micro stepping may result in more inaccurate movement compared to full stepping. When you use the lead screws native resolution for your setup, only when the stepper is actually at the full step position, you would benefit as in this position it will not dwell to the next full step as it is already in the stable position.</p> <hr> <p>As a side remark I've added the correct calculation of the native resolution of your lead screws. From your question I deduce that you have Tr8x8(p2) lead screws. "Tr" for trapezoidal thread, followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digit after the "x" tells you how much the nut advances per revolution, this is called the lead of the screw. The value between the brackets "p2" denotes the pitch. This means that the screw has 8 (lead)/2 (pitch) = 4 starts. So with every revolution of the stepper (200 steps) the nut advances 8 mm which translates to 8/200 = 0.04 mm per step of 1.8°.</p>

2018-04-12T17:56:16.760

|extruder|motor|

<p>I noticed a knocking noise one day on my QIDI and things seemed fine at first glance, then 7 hours later my print only had 3 layers. So I figured it was a jam, and I cleaned it out but every now and then I heard the knock again which cause incomplete prints. When I went back to remove the front facing cooling fan I noticed one of the screws that go through the fan to the stepper motor wasn't secure. This was causing the filament guide to rock out of place periodically until it got worse and worse.</p> <p>I've been trying for hours but the screw just won't "catch" on the stepper motor that feeds the filament into the extruder. The screws aren't stripped because I can take the motor off and screw them directly into it with no problem. It's as if they aren't long enough anymore or that they're bent. </p> <p>Has anyone else had this problem &amp; found a solution that works consistently?</p>

5802

QIDI x-one2 : Fan screws not holding filament feeder stepper motor in place

<p>I just had this same problem and my solution was to push the motor as close as I could up to where the screw goes, because they weren’t lined up. I hope that helped.</p>

2018-04-12T21:40:23.060

|prusa-i3|heated-bed|adhesion|

<p>I try to configure my 3D Printer properly. </p> <p>I printed this boat model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763854" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763854</a> (with a scaling of 0.6):The quality of the print looks nice but at the last roof the entire print slipped away. (e.g. no adhesion between bed and print)</p> <p>Here are some printing configuration</p> <ul> <li>Printer: prusa i3</li> <li>Layer Height: 0.2mm</li> <li>Top/Bottom Tickness: 0.8</li> <li>Material: PLA</li> <li>Bed adhesion: 10mm Brim</li> <li>Printing Temperature: 200°C</li> <li>Bed Temperature: 60°C</li> <li>Travel Speed: 120mm/s</li> <li>Print Speed: 60mm</li> <li>Top/Bottom Line Width: 0.4mm</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MECW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MECW.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVi86.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVi86.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tO9T.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tO9T.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Is this common that the print can slip away? Is e.g. the raft bed adhesion a better option? I have read that glue could prevent the print to slip away. What kind of glue I should use? Could a hotter/colder heating bed prevent the print to slip away?</p> <p>Thanks in advance</p> <p>Edit: Added Pictures after extruder calibration (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb7lit5ZRq4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb7lit5ZRq4</a>): <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DBlEn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DBlEn.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j79MO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/j79MO.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

5804

Print slipped away

<p>If your printer is a genuine Prusa i3, MK2 or MK2.5, it will have a PEI bed which requires no additional adhesive for a model to remain properly attached during the print.</p> <p>The PEI should be cleaned with denatured alcohol prior to a print. If your bed has had many prints in one location, the PEI will lose adhesion. I've recently assisted a Prusa owner to change the PEI sheet which improved print adhesion greatly. The strange aspect of that is the problem was getting the print to release, not that it would not remain attached. The user now knows to move the print location around the bed and not always in the center.</p> <p>In your case, all the parameters look good, although 60mm per second is rather fast, that should not have a big effect on adhesion. </p> <p>Prusa printers have the ability to perform a live-z adjustment. The first layer being printed should have a slightly squished or squashed appearance. When you begin the print, use a skirt or brim to force the printer to outline the model. During that period, use the live-z adjustment to flatten the first layer, but use caution to not drive the nozzle into the print surface.</p> <p>For testing purposes, consider to create a model of only 1 mm thick using the same settings. This will give you faster results on testing the live-z and getting a good bond to the bed.</p> <p>I use 70°C for printing PLA, but the measured temperature on my glass bed is 60°C which leads me to believe that you have a good number. The printing temperature is reasonable too.</p> <p>10mm brim is wide and further indicates that your adhesion may be related to first-layer nozzle height.</p> <p>Post-photo edit: I can see in the image provided that the first layer has large air gaps. This is directly related to either the extrusion factor or the z-height. The remainder of the model looks too good to be extrusion factor, returning my first assessment of z-height problems as more likely.</p> <p>Yet another edit:</p> <p>As best as I can determine from your printer name, you do not have a genuine Prusa i3, but rather a Geeetech prusa clone i3. As such, many things are different. My suggestion about z-height is no longer valid, as the firmware is likely to be different for your printer.</p> <p>I'm not a cura user, but my quick research shows that it's probably called flow percentage. Other posts on the 'net suggest that below 100% would be underextrusion. I've <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb7lit5ZRq4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">found a video</a> that shows how to make your extruder match the 100% flow setting in the software. It's smarter to have the firmware represent accurate figures and the video will allow you to perform this calibration.</p> <p>The z-height for your printer is related to print bed calibration. I was unable to locate anything useful to me with respect to that aspect of your printer. It appears that the bed has four leveling screws, although I'm not certain of that. If your bed leveling involves adjusting those screws, it is possible that all four (or three?) of them are too tight and have to be released a bit.</p> <p>If you have bed calibration instructions, consider to perform them again, especially if you are going to adjust the extruder settings as per the previous video.</p>

2018-04-15T09:20:36.067

|print-quality|3d-models|fdm|m3d|

<p>My model looks like this, does anyone know what's going wrong?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qAUd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Bad print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qAUd.jpg" alt="Bad Print" title="Bad print" /></a></p> <p>I'm thinking that if the small object looks like that, it's probably because of the slicer? And how about the bottom part of the cube... ummmm... I really don't know</p> <p>I'm using an M3D printer, its own slicer and PLA at 205°C</p> <p>Settings:</p> <ul> <li>Layer thickness: 0.200 mm</li> <li>Extrusion width: 0.375 mm</li> <li>Filament flow: 100% --&gt;98%</li> <li>Print speed: 30mm/s --&gt;42 mm/s</li> <li>Retraction amount: 2 mm</li> <li>Retraction speed: 6 mm/s</li> <li>Minimal travel before retraction: 1 mm</li> <li>Retraction z-hop: 0.150 mm</li> </ul> <h3>Update:</h3> <p>The smaller object is using the same file but resized.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYMBP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Side"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYMBP.jpg" alt="Side" title="Side" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kux1J.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Top"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kux1J.jpg" alt="Top" title="Top" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTjoU.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Inside of left object"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dTjoU.jpg" alt="Inside of the left object" title="Inside of left object" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/omdKQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Side of large object"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/omdKQ.jpg" alt="Side of large object" title="Side of large object" /></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAYlS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="20x20x20 cube"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAYlS.jpg" alt="20x20x20 cube" title="20x20x20 cube" /></a></p> <p>Here's the calibration cube. After I've changed the filament flow to 98%, it seems that the situation became better. But, it might also be the problem of the slicer as the two object isn't the same.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FT2RK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Calibration Cube - Flow: 98%"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FT2RK.jpg" alt="Calibration cube - Flow: 98%" title="Calibration Cube - Flow: 98%" /></a></p> <h3>Update :</h3> <p>Here are the settings</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYm7u.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYm7u.png" alt="setting01" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3kKo.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3kKo.png" alt="setting02" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0FJR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0FJR.png" alt="setting03" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7kt9t.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7kt9t.png" alt="setting04" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CJHH.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3CJHH.png" alt="setting06" /></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYK2K.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYK2K.png" alt="setting05" /></a></p> <h3>STL Files</h3> <ul> <li><a href="https://files.fm/f/tnu9yyaj" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://files.fm/f/tnu9yyaj</a></li> <li><a href="https://files.fm/u/p5f7k6ya" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://files.fm/u/p5f7k6ya</a></li> </ul>

5817

Print quality problem with M3D FDM printer

<p>It appears that there are several issues with the prints. </p> <ul> <li>First layer too far from bed<br> The picture showing the bottom of the print clearly shows the deposited lines and gaps in between the lines. Please re-level the bed to get the print nozzle closer to the bed (usually a sheet of paper should fit between nozzle and bed without too much friction when pulled). <strong>Edit after new information:</strong> Your initial layer is definitely incorrect, a 0.4 (assuming you have a 0.4 nozzle) is too high, a rule of thumb is to not exceed about 75% of the nozzle diameter, so this should be max 0.3; this is a strong indication that your bed level is indeed to far from the nozzle. Also 1.5 mm line width for the first layer is way too high for correctly leveled bed to nozzle distance; this should be close to 0.4.</li> <li>Too much flow<br> Various pictures show zits and blobs that stick out of the print. The best solution is to calibrate your extruder. </li> <li>Too high temperature possibly/too few cooling flow<br> The deposited filament is not sharp, it looks like the filament it pretty fluid during the deposition. Please lower the temperature to 195 and or increase the part cooling flow.</li> <li>Z banding or wobble<br> The wavy walls show that the printer suffers from X-Y movement (eccentric movement) when the Z lead screws advance. This cannot be fixed easily as this involves the mechanics and the design of the printer. </li> </ul> <p>To determine to improve the print quality you first should look at the bed leveling issue, second calibrate the extruder (see if you ask it to spit out 100 mm of filament it actually is 100 mm rather than randomly lowering the extrusion flow parameter) before you print some calibration cubes at reduced temperature and or increased part cooling flow.</p>

2018-04-17T03:03:47.340

|software|scaling|

<p>I am trying to 3D print some shells for a project, and would like them to be about 5&nbsp;cm long. </p> <p>I created the shells in Blender and converted them to <code>.stl</code> files which the printer requires, but it tries to print them as 0.02&nbsp;mm long. I am not printing them myself, so I have to rescale the files without access to the actual printer. I have tried scaling the object both in Blender, and when exporting them to <code>.stl</code> files, but can't figure out how to tell what size the printer will interpret the shells as.</p> <p>Is there a way to make sure I have the objects scaled properly before printing them?</p>

5821

Printing .stl file using ObJetPro 3D Printer

<p>the best way is to install slicer on your pc and open the .stl file. Most slicers will tell you the size of an object and there is an option to rescale resize.</p> <p>Using <code>Slic3r</code> you will have object details in the corner <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ygAy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ygAy.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Using CURA you will have a detailed view in scale mode <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYISK.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYISK.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Also you can use online services <a href="https://www.viewstl.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CLICK</a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjOAh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjOAh.png" alt="an online service stl viewer"></a></p>

2018-04-17T03:29:28.043

|troubleshooting|

<p>Are these vertical lines described as "banding"?</p> <p>Would the most likely culprit be the extruder?</p> <p>FWIW, this was printed in "vase mode".</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZCPF.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="&quot;Vase mode, PLA"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZCPF.jpg" alt="Vase mode, PLA" title="&quot;Vase mode, PLA"></a></p>

5822

Is this banding?

<p>Ok, so it turns out that this was caused by a problem in my stepper motor drivers, which results in missed steps, as described on <a href="https://web.archive.org/web/20171127173338/http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html?m=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this guy's blog</a></p> <p>The fix was to hook up these "TL Smoother" modules (I got <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B071WG3SZQ" rel="nofollow noreferrer">these particular ones</a> from amazon but there are a bazillion clones)</p> <p>After hooking up TL Smoother, this is what the print looks like:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/B52kB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/B52kB.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

2018-04-18T13:34:18.830

|filament|nozzle|

<p>When I wanted to take out the filament from the extruder, it didn't wanna come out, it was stuck (even when I heated up the nozzle). So I unscrewed the nozzle and it looks like the filament is all pressed together at the top of the nozzle (see picture). What does this mean? I am heaving issues extruding filament from the nozzle, the filament barely comes out and the extruder motor is clicking. Can someone help, please.<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiRs1.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KiRs1.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

5829

Why is my filament pressed together at the nozzle

<p>As per attached picture I can see that the issue source could be:</p> <ol> <li><p>the ptf tube is not inserted to the end of heat-break, or it is not straight-cut at the end - <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9InOVlQrro" rel="nofollow noreferrer">see this video</a> for help</p></li> <li><p>the cooler on the hotend is not working properly/not installed and heat goes up to the throttle and melts the material</p></li> <li><p>an object in the nozzle that blocks the flow (usually a ptf tube particle that probably melted) - clean/replace the nozzle</p></li> </ol>

2018-04-20T08:25:09.537

|firmware|

<p>When trying to upload firmware I get the following errors:</p> <ol> <li><code>timeout - cannot sync</code>, or</li> <li><code>port is in use</code></li> </ol> <p>What can be the possible sources of these errors?</p>

5848

How to upload firmware to reprap printer?

<p>There are mainly three reasons for that:</p> <ol> <li>Arduino studio settings should be: <ul> <li>Board: Mega 2560 and</li> <li>Programmer: AVR ISP </li> <li><strong>and valid COM port</strong>, please see below:</li> </ul></li> </ol> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Xe3.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C8Xe3.png" alt="Arduino settings"></a></p> <ol start="2"> <li><p>Please close all slicer's instances (Cura, Slic3r, Repetiter) and host servers and other software that communicate with the printer as they lock the COM port;</p></li> <li><p>Please check that the appropriate usb2serial drivers are installed and working - the best way is to start the serial monitor from the Arduino Studio Tools menu and see if there are any. </p></li> </ol>

2018-04-20T09:18:40.610

|heated-bed|glass-bed|

<p>I have a 15x15 cm heating resistor from my current printer (printing area: 12x12 cm).</p> <p>I would like to switch to a glass bed and to rework my printer to increase the printing area to 20 cm (22x22 cm glass plate).</p> <p>Would it be possible to use the old heating resistor placed only in the centre? this way I would have a smaller heated bed for ABS and a bigger one for PLA.</p> <p>Would the glass crack due to non uniform heating? This is because glass has a conductivity of less than 5 W/mK, therefore the hot area will stay hot and basically never really spread the heat to the surrounding area. So the frame will be cold and the center hot, causing stresses.</p> <p>Related: <a href="https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows">https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows</a></p>

5850

Can I have a glass bed with only the center heated?

<p>I purchased some very, very cheap thin glass from walmart (or home depot, cant remember for sure). Probably the thinnest kind available. Went through dozens of prints heating it up to 85C only at the center and never experienced issues with cracking. Personally I believe you’ll be fine. I can look for specifics if you need them.</p>

2018-04-21T12:31:20.670

|diy-3d-printer|linear-motion|

<p>I recently bought the MGN12H linear guide and rail from robotdigg, which is supposed to be the copy of the Hiwin. I have noticed that the motion is very smooth when moving fast, but if I move it very slowly, it gets stuck and the motion is not smooth at all. I think this will cause problems on my prints once I assamble the printer. Am I missing something? Should I put some king of oil on the balls?</p>

5856

Robotdigg linear guide not smooth motion

<p>Difficult to say with the given data, but here are a couple of ideas:</p> <p><strong>First theory:</strong></p> <blockquote> <p>The belt is too thin/flexible for the linear guide.</p> </blockquote> <p>Linear guides remove the backslash by adding quite some pressure in the ball system: The block is slightly too small (compared to the rail) and thus it compress the balls and rail. The backslash is avoided until you reach this force.</p> <p>This pressure require a little bit of force to move the block along the rail, so if your belt is too thin or flexible, the belt will start to move until the elasticity of the belt reach the force required to move the block, then the block move a little bit and stop again.</p> <p>In a fast movement, your block never get to stop, while in a slow movement, it has time to start and stop. Maybe what you feel like &quot;not a smooth movement&quot;</p> <p>If you identify this case, I suggest you the following solutions:</p> <ul> <li>Lubricate correctly the guide, this could be enough to reduce the issue to an acceptable level.</li> <li>Change the belt to a larger one, with fibre glass inside (not only rubber).</li> <li>If I am correct, the &quot;H&quot; of your MGN12H stand for the pressure of the block. <code>H</code> is for high pressure, switching to a <code>C</code> is far enough for a 3D printer and will reduce the drag.</li> </ul> <p><strong>Second theory:</strong> (Thanks to FernandoBaltazar)</p> <blockquote> <p>You got some dust, rust inside</p> </blockquote> <p>Remove the belt and move the block with the hand, if you are able to feel the movement is not smooth, then it's probably this case.</p> <ul> <li>Add some grease (Never in your life use cooking oil)</li> <li>Clean the dust of the rail and exterior of the block</li> <li>Move the block from one side to the other of the rail until the movement become smooth.</li> </ul>

2018-04-21T18:01:35.723

|bed-leveling|

<p>How does Z offset (<code>M851</code>) work with an auto leveling sensor? Does it add the Z offset to the offset of the <code>G29</code> mesh? or the <code>G29</code> value replaces the <code>M851</code>?</p> <p>My printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, I was having issues with the autoleveling sensor and reset the Z offset to 0 and let <code>G29</code> get the mesh offsets and its working good now.</p> <p>I was looking through Marlin G-code page but couldn't figure out how <code>G29</code> affects <code>M851</code> or vice-versa.</p> <p>My setup with level issues:</p> <pre><code>M851 Z0 G28 M211 S0 ;turned endstops off and got a paper to find the zoffset M851 Z-0.59 M500 M211 S1 </code></pre> <p>And <code>G29</code> before printing.</p>

5857

Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup

<p>You must use the sequence </p> <pre><code>G28 G29 </code></pre> <p>If you do <code>G28</code> after <code>G29</code> it will reset bed leveling. I guess you don't want that.</p> <p>On my printer deployed z-probe falls 2.3&nbsp;mm lower than nozzle. In printer settings I've therefore stored static Z-offset of -2.3&nbsp;mm, so after <code>G28</code> and <code>G29</code> I can be sure that when ever I tell Z-axis to lower to zero, it can go down -12.3&nbsp;mm, coming to stop at around 0.1&nbsp;mm above the bed surface (so just a single sheet of paper fits between the nozzle and the bed).</p> <p>That said, I'm not worrying about sending the Z-offset via print commands, as restart restores the aforementioned -2.3&nbsp;mm offset.</p>

2018-04-22T18:45:17.527

|print-quality|dlp|uv-printer|

<p>The light of the build area of a DLP UV printer isn't evenly spread. The source of light is a 9 LED UV array. The light mainly falls of to the sides. This results in objects curing too much in the center, or not enough on the outer sides of the build area. One can compensate for this, making the LCD build area have a homogeneous intensity of light, using a mask. But it needs to be specifically created for each physically unique printer. Having a homogeneous illuminated build area results in better quality prints.</p> <p>How can I create such an mask accurately for a UV 3D resin printer that uses DLP technique, like for example for a Wanhao Duplicator D7?</p>

5859

How to create an accurate mask for a UV 3D resin DLP printer

<p>I've created software to do just that. See the project on Github: <a href="https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CreateMask</a>. It has a <a href="https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask/wiki/3.-How-to-create-the-mask" rel="nofollow noreferrer">wiki page</a> that explains what to do.</p> <p>To summarize: you measure the LCD build area using a multi-meter and a light dependent resistor. You do this with low and high intensity masks. You feed the numbers in CSV files to the software, and the software will generate a mask for you by polynomial curve fitting. <a href="https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask/wiki/2.-How-it-works" rel="nofollow noreferrer">See this page that explains in detail how the mask is created</a>, if you are interested.</p> <p>You can <a href="https://github.com/Devoney/CreateMask/releases" rel="nofollow noreferrer">download a release here</a>.</p>

2018-04-23T18:33:31.267

|extruder|heated-bed|abs|

<p>I have the Monoprice Select 3D Printer (i3 clone). I'm trying to print ABS. I set the temperature to 230°C for the extruder and 110°C for the bed. I can see the printer warming up to those temperatures and then when it gets there the bed and extruder set temperatures reset to 0, and the print does not start.</p> <p>I pulled the ABS out and went back to PLA and printed a part without any issues. </p> <p>Any thoughts on what the issue might be?</p>

5863

Monoprice i3 clone heat shuts off printing abs

<p>this could be connected to a thermal shutdown protection. Most firmwares requires a decent increase in temperature every few seconds.</p> <p>if you use Marlin then in the source code you can extend thermal shutdown timings.</p> <p>what to check: <strong>check every single connector to eliminate any fiddling or play - risk of fire !!!</strong></p> <p><strong>if any of wires goes hot - double check connections, replace wires/connectors</strong></p> <ol> <li>note temperature change (how many seconds/degree) on the hotbead</li> <li>then increase voltage on psu (probably you have a led psu - so there is a small regulator next to the connectors)</li> <li>validate if that help</li> </ol>

2018-04-24T02:51:26.850

|prusa-i3|pla|print-quality|anet-a8|simplify3d|

<p>On nearly all of my prints, my first few layers are flared out slightly. I'm using painter's tape for the bed, and the bed temperature is at 60&nbsp;&deg;C while the extruder is at 205&nbsp;&deg;C. This seems to happen regardless of print quality settings. </p> <p>Here's one example below:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNQVy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dNQVy.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>That extruded rectangle shape is 19.50&nbsp;x&nbsp;19.30&nbsp;mm on the outside on the straight part. On the flared part, it measures 19.92&nbsp;x&nbsp;19.70&nbsp;mm.</p> <p>Is there a way to fix this? If so, how can I improve it?</p>

5865

How can I stop the flare out of the bottom layers?

<p>The picture is not very clear so this can be related to either:</p> <ul> <li>Overextrusion at the bottom layer (slicer setting) or an incorrect bed leveling (bed to nozzle distance too small), or</li> <li>this could be the effect called "elephant foot" that is primarily caused by printers with a heated bed. This issue is related to unbalanced printing parameters: heat bed temperature (too high) in combination with insufficient part cooling.</li> </ul> <p>The general remedy for these problems is to level the bed (e.g. nozzle can be too close to the bed). "Elephant foot" can be reduced by reducing the heat bed temperature, re-positioning the cooling nozzle and/or start cooling at a lower height. Please experiment with the print parameters by printing XYZ 20 mm test cubes till you find the correct settings.</p>

2018-04-24T05:03:01.530

|delta|flsun-qq|power-supply|

<p>I just bought a FLSUN QQ and the instructions say I need to change the voltage from 220 to 110. Sadly the instructions don't say how to do that. Can anyone tell me how to do it?</p>

5866

How to change the voltage on a FLSUN QQ

<p>I don't know if this is the case with all FLSUN QQ printers, but mine was indeed set to 220v as the instructions/user manual indicated. First I needed to remove the bottom of the printer. Then there was a switch on the side of the power supply with the following label:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zdhI.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zdhI.jpg" alt="voltage switch label"></a></p> <p>I know the picture is terrible, but the lighting inside the base of the printer was less than optimal. It should be pretty easy to find once you know what you're looking for. </p>

2018-04-24T16:40:29.547

|fdm|print-material|lulzbot|

<p>Not asking for a product recommendation, unless there's only one product out there like this...</p> <p>I have a need for a flexible filament that retains its deformation, kind of like silly putty. Are there any filaments out there that, after you bend or stretch them, they keep their shape?</p> <p>I'm sure to some degree flexible filaments do this -- Which filament might be best? Commenters -- what's the scientific term for this? </p> <p>Actually, metals exhibit this type of flexibility. Do any of the 3D printable metal filaments flex, bend, and keep their shape?</p>

5868

Any family of plastics / filaments that bend and keep their shape?

<p>To have a material be "flexible" and retain the shape after the "flexing", you need to apply a stress in excess of the elastic deformation stress. You will want a material that has the elastic deformation limit that is much lower than the ultimate tensile strength. Unfortunately, for plastics, this is difficult to find.</p> <p>Most plastics are made up of tightly bound, long-chain molecules. Flexing beyond the elastic limit requires breaking these bonds, which introduces weak points in the plastic. You can see this by bending almost any plastic. Either it will snap in two, or you will see a light or white colored line along the fold. The lighter color comes from light scattering from the broken bonds.</p> <p>"Flexible" structural plastics such as ABS are a copolymer (more than one type of molecule) in which one of the polymers is rubbery. The rubbery bits provide places within the bulk material where the stress can create strain that doesn't require breaking bonds.</p> <p>I doubt that any 3D-printer FDM compatible filaments will satisfy your needs. A filament must keep its shape during printing, if for no other reason than to permit the extruder drive mechanism to apply pressure to the filament. There are 3D-printable filaments, but they are very elastic and return to their shape when the stress is released.</p> <p>Some metals can respond to stress with by flowing rather than by elastic strain. Lead comes to mind. Someone suggested copper. There are several degrees of hardness of copper depending on the alloy and the annealing schedule after it was formed. Copper also work-hardens, becoming harder and more likely break under stress the more the copper flows under stress.</p>

2018-04-24T18:25:08.703

|ultimaker-cura|lulzbot|

<p>So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out...</p> <p>One feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a "pause at z-height" feature ("post-processing tool"). I'm building prototypes of an electronics device, and creating two pieces that snap together looks a lot worse than printing a single piece. If I could pause my print, insert my electronics, and continue printing, my device would look a lot more professional (even if it took longer to make).</p> <p>My one concern is the lithium ion battery. Right now I'm printing in TPU. With a heated bed of 40 degrees Celsius, and a heated extruder at 240 degrees Celsius, there seems to be a significant risk that the lithium ion battery reaches a temperature above 60 degrees Celsius (damaging the cell, causing a potential explosion). Granted, I am not sure what "60 degrees Celsius" actually means. It could mean only one part of the packaging needs to reach this temperature, or it could mean the entire LiPo's internal temperature would need to reach this. In either case, the numbers don't look good.</p> <p>On the other hand, the heated bed surely doesn't need to remain heated beyond the first few layers? Additionally, I can create a "roof" for the LiIon battery that I can slip it under, providing some insulative TPU before the rest of the device. I think the print would happen safely like this, but obviously, an explosion would be really really bad. Like it would probably burn my house down, and I would be asleep when it happened.</p> <p><strong>Does anyone have any experience doing this? Is there a way to turn off the heated bed mid-print? I guess I can insert a g-code line during the pause? Will this affect the remainder of the print you think? Am I being paranoid? Can the extruder actually pass heat through a 1–2 mm of insulation and cause an explosion? Anyone know how heat travels from the initial, liquid print material through the rest of the structure?</strong></p> <p>Any more advice or things I should consider before pursuing this?</p> <p>A more specific pause type might be helpful, if anyone knows of any.</p>

5869

Danger in 3D printing over a lithium ion battery

<p>Although the bed may only reach 60°, the extrusion above the battery will be at closer to 200°C. Granted there will be a fairly low heat flux, but it will still cause ageing of the battery. At a minimum, some insulation or packing above the battery would seem like a sensible move. This could be printed material, and you could print over the top if you really want to seal the part.</p> <p>Also remember that as LiPo cells age, they generate gas (this is designed to be trapped in the pouch) and swell. You should try and avoid any risk of puncture if this happens.</p>

2018-04-26T00:15:37.847

|slic3r|axis|

<p>I made my printer to have a left handed coordinate system (it homes to the back left corner of the heatbed), I did this because it happens to make working on the printer easier for me. This, however, causes the objects to be printed mirrored. In Slic3r I manually mirror objects every time I load a new objects. From time to time I forget doing this which is really annoying. I was wondering if there is a setting in Slic3r to automatically do this. Something like mirroring on import, or changing the axis in Slic3r itself.</p>

5878

Change Slic3r settings for left handed coordinate system

<p>The direction of the end stop is set in the firmware of the printer. Even with different setup end stops, you should be able to get a correct coordinate system without mirroring axes in slicers. <strong>This would be the preferred method to fix your problem!</strong></p> <p><em>E.g. my Ultimaker 3 Extended homes the Z on Z max having the platform at the bottom of the machine, a calibrated offset determines the actual Z=0.</em></p> <p>Not knowing which firmware you are using, in e.g. <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Marlin Firmware</a> this is set by code lines in the file <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration.h</a>:</p> <pre><code>// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN // :[-1,1] #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 </code></pre> <p>Your end stop triggers at the maximum of the Y axis, so you need to configure it as a MAX end stop, i.e. use the Y_MAX pins by defining (search for the <em>Endstop Settings</em> section, note to also disable the YMIN endstop):</p> <pre><code>//#define USE_YMIN_PLUG // This disables the YMIN endstop #define USE_YMAX_PLUG // This enables the YMAX endstop </code></pre> <p>and change the homing direction (Y_HOME_DIR) to 1:</p> <pre><code>#define Y_HOME_DIR 1 // This tells the printer where the endstop is located: positive for YMAX direction </code></pre> <p>Otherwise when used at Y_MIN endstop and the homing direction set to -1, the axis is reversed as you experienced.</p>

2018-04-28T17:46:41.677

|software|speed|

<p>If I have a stl file is there a good way to estimate how long it will take to print on a given printer? I know there are a lot of things that go into print speed, such as the speed of the printer, the size of the print, etc. I was wondering if anyone knows of perhaps an application that you could enter your printer's specifications and the stl that you want to print, and it could calculate the print time?</p>

5892

How long will my print take?

<p>I use Repetier software with the Cura slicer and the print time estimate tends to be about 10&nbsp;% longer than the actual print.</p>

2018-05-02T23:36:12.267

|heated-bed|ramps-1.4|switching-power-supply|

<p>Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12) </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fraEVm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fraEVm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXymv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXymv.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Technically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the one with 20 amp because pulse currents from extruders and stepper motors can be stressful to supplies loaded to the max, so for reliability and performance, it is better to use a supply rated for 25% more than you need </p> <p>In the place where I buy the spare parts for my 3d printer they also sell 12 V power supplies capable of delivering 25 amp and 30 amp and they told me that if I use those ones you are going to be able to speed up the heating of the heated bed. Is that true? I understand that the heated bed is only going to take the 11 amp that it needs so is not going to make any difference to use power supplies capable of delivering more current</p>

5905

Speeding up the heating of the heated bed

<p>A more powerful PSU only would solve the problem in two cases: Either your PSU is anemic and underpowered in the first place, or you want you'd separate the bed's power supply from the rest of the machine - by using a higher <strong>Voltage</strong> for the bed. This would however need you to regulate the heating by having the board control not the bed directly but, control a (Normally Open for safety!) MOSFET, which in turn throttles the power to the bed.</p> <p>In that case, you can use the resistance R of the bed with whatever voltage your alternate PSU provides to get the power that is turned into heat from the bed using <span class="math-container">$P_\text{bed}=\frac{U_\text{bed}^2}{R_\text{bed}}$</span>. Our MOSFET can regulate the power that is turned into heat in the bed as it is a Variable Resistance: The total potential differential stays the same, but the voltage available to the heated bed is governed by the resistance of the bed and the MOSFET's resistance. Since the two are in line, they have the same Current flowing through them:</p> <p><span class="math-container">$$U_\text{supply}=U_\text{bed}+U_\text{MOSFET}=I_\text{total}\times(R_\text{bed}+R_\text{MOSFET})$$</span></p> <p>That results in what is commonly called a Voltage Divider: the voltage that is available for the bed comes from a derivate of that: <span class="math-container">$$U_\text{bed}=U_\text{supply}(\frac{R_\text{bed}}{R_\text{MOSFET}+R_\text{bed}})$$</span></p> <h2>Why the hazzle?</h2> <p>Often, a board also might have a potentiometer for each power exit, and these are generally nothing else but variable resistances - and give us the same effect as a MOSFET for controlling the voltage available to a bed. If available, turning the Bed-Potentiometer a tiny bit will provide just a little higher voltage to the bed and allow slightly faster heating.</p>

2018-05-04T09:36:39.083

|extruder|

<p>While this may seem like terribly noobish question, I'm sure one day someone will have same problem.</p> <p>I own a ZONESTAR P802QSU (Bowden extruder) and all of sudden my extruder motor stopped working. What I did:</p> <ol> <li>I check whether or not motor is moving freely - I can rotate it without any problems manually.</li> <li>I checked out cable and plugs - everything seems OK.</li> <li>I checked whether motor is working after plugging it into another slot in motherboard - motor works fine.</li> <li>I checked if another motor works after plugging it into same slot on mainboard - and it does not.</li> </ol> <p>It would seem that there is something wrong with E0-mot driver module, or with socket. I'm however totally at loss about what can I do with any of those. I do not have any electronic equipment except multimeter, and voltage on motor seems fine(11.3V between red and black, I guess V+ and ground). It sometimes seemed to get lower, but I'm almost sure it is my trembling hands.</p> <p>After some googling, I started checking A4988 stepper driver with my multimeter. VDD was ~5V and VMOT around 12V, so it seems to work at least in this way.</p> <p>What can I do, to see what is broken? Visually nothing looks like it burned out, but I'm fully aware it may not be visible. </p>

5913

Zonestar Extruder motor does not work - what can I check?

<p>As this is not an obvious case, most printers' firmware has a <strong>cold extrusion prevention</strong>. That is usually set at 170C, so the nozzle need to be over 170 to allow stepper to move. I experienced that when I was assembling my TT and doing a cold run, to validate all mechanical movements and clearance.</p> <p>In Marlin firmware, the extruder stepper is switched off after extrusion, so we can freely move it, but not other motors and that could give us a thought that something is bad with the driver.</p>

2018-05-06T14:30:03.967

|extruder|hotend|microsd|sd|

<p>My Printrbot simple metal's extruder is jammed and I need to heat it up to unjam it. Unfortunately, the printer does't want to connect to my laptop regardless of the program I'm using (Repetier-Host or Cura 15). </p> <p>Is there a way to use a micro SD card to heat up the printer hotend but not print anything?</p>

5921

How to heat up a Printrbot's hotend using an SD card

<p>I heated it up and was able to extract some plastic that had gotten jammed in the hot ends opening. </p> <p>I heated up the hotend by commenting out all the other lines of code in Cura's start and end G-code tabs (must have missed some because the printer moved. I would just unplug the printer when it stopped moving). I used an SD card but it would probably work with USB too. I tried to force the filament in to force the jam out of the hotend, but that did nothing.</p> <p>I took apart the extruder assembly and discovered that a section of filament that was too wide got stuck in the hotend's entrance. I pulled the filament out using me multitool and put the extruder back together. Hope this helps others with a similar problem.</p>

2018-05-07T09:49:16.743

|extrusion|anet-a8|

<p>I have excitedly decided to get my feet wet in the 3D printing world, and being that budget is fairly small got myself an ANet A8 3D printer. I have it all assembled and am able to 'print' however I don't really have any luck getting a successful print to actually occur.</p> <p>At the moment I am printing with PLA (start easy(er) is my logic) and had a few issues with getting the print to adhere to the print bed so found a plastic-like print surface that seems to adhere fairly well but I am still having issues :(.</p> <p>When the first layers are being deposited onto the bed (extruded at 215, to a bed temperature of 60) they appear to adhere fairly well to the surface, and the layers start to be built up. However, after a random period of time, the layers lost adhesion to the print bed and start to move around the bed which stuffs up all the prints.</p> <p>in terms of the extruder, the range for the PLA is 190 - 215. I tried lower tempertures but it did not really work in terms of properly melting the filiment unless it was around the 215 range.</p> <p>To give you an example of how the prints come out, i have attached two images (front and back) of a set of prints. I stopped these printing as they lost grip on the bed.</p> <p><em>Bottom Layer (on the bed)</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/505G1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/505G1.jpg" alt="Bottom Layer (contacting bed)"></a></p> <p><em>Top Layer</em> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0AEA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0AEA.jpg" alt="Top Layer"></a></p> <hr> <p>Thanks heaps for helping a newbie out. I had tried changing speeds (faster and slower), changing temperatures and so on but i have no real idea what i am doing and was hoping someone far more knowledgable than me could give me some idea on where i may be going wrong and how to fix the issue.</p> <hr> <p>My Cura profile;</p> <pre><code>[profile] layer_height = 0.2 wall_thickness = 1.6 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = 1.6 fill_density = 20 nozzle_size = 0.4 print_speed = 30 print_temperature = 215 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 60 support = None platform_adhesion = None support_dual_extrusion = Both wipe_tower = False wipe_tower_volume = 15 ooze_shield = False filament_diameter = 1.75 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 100 retraction_speed = 45 retraction_amount = 4.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 retraction_min_travel = 1.5 retraction_combing = True retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02 retraction_hop = 0.0 bottom_thickness = 0.2 layer0_width_factor = 100 object_sink = 0.0 overlap_dual = 0.15 travel_speed = 50 bottom_layer_speed = 20 infill_speed = 0 inset0_speed = 0.0 insetx_speed = 0.0 cool_min_layer_time = 5 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 1 skirt_gap = 3.0 skirt_minimal_length = 150.0 fan_full_height = 0.5 fan_speed = 30 fan_speed_max = 70 cool_min_feedrate = 10 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 15 support_type = Lines support_angle = 60 support_fill_rate = 10 support_xy_distance = 1.2 support_z_distance = 0.45 spiralize = False simple_mode = False brim_line_count = 4 raft_margin = 5 raft_line_spacing = 1.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 0.7 raft_interface_thickness = 0.2 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2 raft_airgap = 0.22 raft_surface_layers = 2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = True fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False plugin_config = (lp1 . object_center_x = -1 object_center_y = -1 </code></pre>

5929

Stuck getting ANet A8 Printer to build layers

<p>Your nozzle is way too far from the bed for the first layer. You should adjust the bed leveling screws to bring the nozzle closer to the bed, to the point where a piece of paper just barely fits between the nozzle and the bed. You should closely watch the first layer as it is being put down, the plastic should get squished slightly and there should be no gaps between adjacent lines.</p>

2018-05-07T12:01:12.850

|slicing|slic3r|bed-leveling|pet|

<p>Having printed exclusively in PLA for the past year, I'm now looking at trying out PETG in order to print a set of spare parts for my new Prusa i3 mk3.</p> <p>I have bought a roll of PETG from Rigid.ink and their recommendation is to leave an extra 0.2mm gap between the nozzle and bed.</p> <p>Can I achieve this extra Z offset in gcode using Slic3r PE, or would I need to do it using Live Z Adjust on the printer? How would I go about doing this if so?</p> <p>Or is there some other way of doing it, so whenever I select my PETG filament profile in Slic3r, the extra Z-offset gets added?</p>

5931

Adding extra Z-offset to bed for PETG in Slic3r

<p>An extra gap of 0.2 mm on top of your existing gap seems rather illogical as the filament is not squished at the build plate anymore. Furthermore 0.2 mm plus something you already have will soon result in a gap over 75% of your nozzle diameter (including your first layer; note that 75% is considered to be the max for good adhesion). The filament will then drop down to the plate... Possible effects/results can be seen in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5929/stuck-getting-anet-a8-printer-to-build-layers">this recent question</a>.</p> <p>Having printed about 8 kg's of PETG, I have never had to add an additional gap. I have printed on various machines; Prusa clone, Ultimaker 3E and self build CoreXY. I use a 0.2 to 0.25 mm first layer thickness (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) while printing on glass or directly onto the aluminium bed using a PVA based spray glue (3DLAC). Beds are always leveled with the nozzle to bed distance of a sheet A4 printing paper. I have zero adhesion problems.</p> <p>I would recommend you to try print as you would normally do and, when that does not work, increase the first layer in your slicer slightly. Printing temperature/speed towers is also recommended to find the best settings for your brand of PETG.</p> <p><strong>Now to address your specific question how to change the offset in your slicer;</strong> an additional offset can be added into your start code script by adding a move to a certain height and redefining the zero Z level. This should be typically done after auto leveling of the bed (if used). So before the first layer is being printed you could add:</p> <pre><code>; start code contains homing, pre-heating, auto-leveling, nozzle priming, etc. G1 Z0.2 F500 ; Go to the level of 0.2 mm + your paper thickness G92 Z0 ; This redefines the zero Z level </code></pre> <p>You can create custom startcode <a href="http://manual.slic3r.org/configuration-organization/configuration-organization" rel="nofollow noreferrer">profiles</a> in Slic3r (requires setting the <a href="http://manual.slic3r.org/simple-mode/simple-mode#printer-settings" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printer Settings</a>) and store them with a specific name so you can have different printer profiles.</p>

2018-05-08T13:23:53.930

|anet-a8|usb|

<p>I am a complete noob when it comes to the 3d printing world. I just finished assembling my printer and I plug it into my computer with the included usb cable and nothing happens. My computer does recognize the printer being plugged in but it just says "unrecognized device in com 4". Nothing else past that. Somebody please help me with the following steps that need to be taken to get my CPU talking with my printer. </p>

5942

Help installing my Anet A8 printer to my computer

<p>Most of the latest Windows 10 systems with high speed USB (USB3.0) fail to recognize USB to Serial connector (which is here: CH430).</p> <p>Try with a decent self powered USB 2.0 hub that has been seen to fix a majority of USB 3.0 port issues, or try by disabling driver signature enforcement on Win10.</p>

2018-05-10T08:08:03.047

|software|support-structures|

<p>My main application for my 3D printer (Zortrax M200 Plus) is making 28 mm scale miniatures for role-playing games. Basically people and animals at 1:60 scale, which means that things like arms, legs, or weapons are only a few millimeters thick. If I use the automatically generated supports of the Z-Suite software, the supports end up being thicker than the model parts, and are impossible to remove.</p> <p>I had a bit more luck creating support structures with Meshmixer, but am not totally happy with those. So I am looking for other software to edit .STL files to add supports automatically, preferably with an option to edit those support structures easily afterwards. Any ideas?</p> <p>Note that Zortrax printers only work with proprietary Z-Suite software, so the software that adds the support also needs to be able to export the model with the supports into an STL file, not just gcode.</p>

5952

Software for adding supports to 3D printed miniatures in STL file

<p>I see that you've already tried <a href="http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Meshmixer - Free Download">Meshmixer</a> and didn't find it helpful, but I wanted to call out <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="How to Create Custom Overhang Supports in Meshmixer - Prusa Blog">an article and accompanying video</a> that I recently found which helped me understand Meshmixer's support generation feature a bit better. It isn't magic, but it is pretty flexible and you can customize them. Plus, you can export them either as a separate file (to be imported via Slic3r's Load Part for example), or as part of the primary object STL file (though you loose the ability to set different print settings for the supports). Much of my printer's time is also devoted to 28mm figurines and I've had varied success with them. There are some models whose detail is too fine and which require too much support to be worth it considering the cleanup - I have a bucket-of-shame that's full of them. I just ordered an upgrade for my printer to allow me to print with multiple filament and I'll be seeing if <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/printing-soluble-interface-supports-prusa-i3-mk2-multi-material/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Printing Soluble Interface Supports with Prusa i3 MK2 Multi Material - Prusa Blog">soluble support material</a> is helpful for those small details. Barring that, I've found that some prints do better with Meshmixer's supports while others do better with simplify3d supports, while others still do better with slic3r supports. </p> <p>Summarizing the <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="How to Create Custom Overhang Supports in Meshmixer - Prusa Blog">article</a> on custom Meshmixer supports:</p> <blockquote> <ol> <li>Open your model in Meshmixer</li> <li>From the top menu select View – Show Printer Bed</li> <li>Select Edit – Transform and move the model to the middle of the print bed <ul> <li>This step is important because Meshmixer won’t generate any supports outside of the print area</li> </ul></li> <li>If you want to print the model on a different scale, scale the model now, again by using the Edit – Transform. It’s better to scale the model now, because an additional change of scale later in slicer would also affect the generated supports, resulting in either too thin and weak supports or too thick and hard to remove supports. <ul> <li>Change the Scale X (Scale Y and Scale Z) to the desired value (1 = 100%, 1.5 = 150% etc.)</li> </ul></li> <li>Select Analysis – Overhangs <ul> <li>You can now adjust the Angle Thresh and see a live preview of areas of the model that should be supported</li> </ul></li> <li>Click on Generate Support to see a preview of the support structure <ul> <li>Every time you make changes to the support settings you’ll have to click on Remove Support and Generate Support to refresh the view</li> </ul></li> </ol> </blockquote> <p>(The <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXFKVmMwXCQ&amp;feature=youtu.be" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="How to create custom supports in Meshmixer - YouTube">video</a> in the article goes into greater detail on the settings available in step 6.)</p> <blockquote> <ol start="7"> <li>Adding and removing supports manually <ul> <li>You can create a new support by left-clicking and dragging from an overhang to the ground or from an existing support to the ground</li> <li>Hold down the Shift key to ignore intersections of the support strut or any other warning and force Meshmixer to generate the new support (use wisely)</li> <li>You can also click on an existing support to generate a new strut going down to the build plate</li> <li>CTRL + Left click on an existing support to remove it</li> </ul></li> <li>When you’re happy with the support structure you can export the model and the support structure together as STL by simply clicking Done and clicking on the Export button in the left menu</li> <li>Alternatively, you can select Convert to Solid to create a separate mesh from the support structure. This will let you set different settings in Slic3r for the supports and for the model itself <ol> <li>After choosing Convert to Solid choose Edit – Separate shells</li> <li>Export both the model and the supports as individual STL files</li> <li>In Slic3r first load the STL with the model</li> <li>Double-click on the model and choose Load part…, select the supports STL file</li> <li>When the STL loads, you can overwrite some of the settings by clicking on the green plus icon</li> </ol></li> </ol> </blockquote>

2018-05-10T14:06:30.123

|nozzle|

<p>My print popped out from the bed and glued to the nozzle. As the printer was printing next hour or so, a lot of pla was extruded and formed on the nozzle. </p> <h2>I'm wondering what will be the best way to remove pla from the nozzle without overheating wires?</h2> <p>a remark: was trying to heat the nozzle over 180, but I am getting a thermal runout. The pla is hard, I don't want to broke the throat.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jC20j.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jC20j.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

5954

What will be the best way to remove pla from a volcano nozzle?

<p>I would suggests to use a heat gun and carefully warm up the PLA to be soft and remove it carefully like a big piece of Play-Doh. Using the extruder to heat up the PLA don't sound like the best idea, for me, because the inner PLA will be fluid and it could be a bigger mess than it is up to now.</p>

2018-05-11T17:53:10.460

|slicing|slic3r|support-structures|

<p>I would like to print a model of my brain (figure 1), it requires supports (figure 2). The supports also get generated between the brain folds/wrinkles of the brain by Slic3r. I only want the supports to be generated between the bed an the object, not within the object itself. I thought of writing a script to edit the g-code, is there an easier way out?</p> <p><strong>Figure 1:</strong> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYqT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYqT.png" alt="brain g-code slic3r stl"></a> <strong>Figure 2:</strong> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIRrw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JIRrw.png" alt="brain g-code slic3r supports stl"></a></p>

5959

Only generate supports between object and bed (for a brain model)

<p>Within Slic3r, there are settings for support, which can be enabled to create support only from the build plate. This would still generate supports under the brain, but not within the hollow sections.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwbOc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwbOc.png" alt="slic3r support settings"></a></p>

2018-05-14T11:56:22.840

|cad|voronoi|

<p>Suppose I'm given a shape with a Voronoi pattern, such as <a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-voronoi-spiral-centerpiece-vase-11900" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this lamp</a>. I'd like to be able to add a "skin" which covers the complete shape on the inner surface so I could print it with translucent material to produce a more-or-less uniform glow. Here's an example of what I'd like to end up with: <a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-voronoi-tea-light-shade-36071" rel="nofollow noreferrer">tea lamp shade</a>. Any ideas on how to reverse-engineer a Voronoi object? </p>

5967

How to add "skin" to a Voronoi shape?

<p>I posted this to an <a href="https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/meshmixer/can-i-reverse-engineer-a-voronoi-object/td-p/8006487" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Autodesk forum</a>, and a fellow named "MagWeb" proposed the following solution. I have not tried it yet. </p> <blockquote> <p>A possible workflow depends much on the overall shape of the voronoi object: If it's convex all over (like an egg) or convex and planar (like a cylinder) e.g:</p> <ul> <li><p>SelectAll (Ctrl+A or Cmd+A on MAC)</p></li> <li><p>Run Edit/FitPrimitive and set its PrimitiveType to ConvexHull (CreateNewObjects checked)</p></li> <li><p>Run MakeSolid on this hull object and set its SolidType to Accurate. Accurate enables the OffsetDistance slider. Pull it down a bit and hit update. You want to get a result intersecting but showing the voronoi object. If needed adjust the offset. Finally accept.</p></li> <li><p>Now activate both the voronoi and the MakeSolid result and run BooleanUnion</p></li> <li><p>Show the FitPrimitive object again (MakeSolid did hide it before) and run MakeSolid again in Accurate mode. Now set a slightly bigger offset as you did before. The difference will determine the "lining's" thickness. Accept</p></li> <li><p>Activate the BoolleanUnion result first and the last MakeSolid result and run BooleanDifference to get a hollow object. You might use another intersecting object to bool-off an opening the bottom.</p></li> </ul> <p>Harder but doable with a different workflow on an voronoi object owning concave regions...</p> </blockquote> <h2>edit</h2> <p>Having run some trials, I can confirm this works for simple convex objects. If there are concavities, most likely the source shape needs to be chopped into sections each of which can be treated as convex.<br> I played around with Meshmixer's "apply pattern" functions with limited success. I could get a form-fitting pattern shape but with a rather uneven surface. Some fine-tuning of the pattern parameters may help. Note that the new shape tends to be as thick as the original voronoi object, so it may well be better to do something like the following:<br> 1) create a duplicate of the original<br> 2) shrink the duplicate by a few percent<br> 3) align the two objects to a common origin and take the boolean difference to create a thin-wall version of the original.<br> 4) Build the pattern object based on that thinwall object. </p> <h3>edit number 2</h3> <p>I succeeded! For those who care, I took an open Voronoi glasses case and put a skin inside to protect your glasses. See <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013220" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this Thingiverse item</a></p>

2018-05-14T18:57:30.283

|extruder|anet-a8|

<p>So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me. </p> <p>It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there. </p> <p>I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot. </p> <p>I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug. </p> <p>I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before. </p> <p>Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?</p> <p>Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase. </p>

5968

Extruder prints fine up until further down the print

<p>I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly. </p> <p>Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break. </p>

2018-05-15T10:53:34.563

|prusa-i3|g-code|slic3r|

<p>I have a spool of translucent PLA filament that doesn't work well with the filament sensor on my Prusa i3 MK3. The translucency trips up the sensor, making it think the filament ran out. I thought I'd create a filament profile in Slic3r and disable the sensor in the "Start G-code" block that gets inserted at the beginning of the exported gcode file. </p> <p>I've got the following code:</p> <pre><code>M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}30{endif}; Filament gcode M406 ; Disable filament sensor M117 Filament sensor OFF </code></pre> <p>The first line is provided by Prusa's default PLA profile. The second line should disable the sensor, and the third line should print the "Filament sensor OFF" message. If I look in the gcode, it's there:</p> <pre><code>G92 E0.0 M221 S95 M900 K30; Filament gcode M406 ; Disable filament sensor M117 Filament sensor OFF G21 ; set units to millimeters G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion ;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE </code></pre> <p>But if I print this gcode file, I see no message, and when checking the sensor in the "Tune" menu while printing, the sensor is still on.</p> <p>I thought I might have a problem with line endings, but looking at the file in a hex editor, all the lines seem to end with a <code>0A</code> line feed character, including mine. </p> <p>Why isn't my printer doing anything with the M406 and M117 messages? Full gcode file <a href="https://pastebin.com/YDTN2Qes" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p>

5971

What is wrong with my "disable sensor" gcode?

<p>When you download the latest version of <a href="https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/archive/v3.2.0.zip" rel="nofollow noreferrer">your firmware</a> you find the implementation of all the codes in <code>Marlin_main.cpp</code>. Here you see that the M406 is not implemented! Hence it does not work. </p>

2018-05-18T14:20:01.363

|print-quality|print-fan|

<p>I had few printing troubles for first layer yesterday (will certainly ask there as soon as I can take photos) but one of the things I've noticed is that the model cooling fan (the fan that is supposed to blow air on the printed model, not the fan that regulates the noozle temperature) is turned off for printing the first layer.</p> <p>It's a Dagoma DiscoEasy200, printing PLA on a non-heating bed (blue tape).</p> <p>Wandering down stackexchange, I also read <code>turn off the part fan for the first layer</code> from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5494/10836">https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5494/10836</a></p> <p>So my question is:</p> <p><em>what's the reason behind turning off the part/model-fan for the first layer?</em></p>

5986

Why turning off model cooling for first layer?

<p>Filament expands as it gets hot. Cooling the filament will make it shrink, so cooling the filament deposited on the bed can lead to adhesion problems and warping of your products. This is exactly the reason why you use a heated bed (the delta temperature is smaller). So keep the cooling off for the first layers and you'll be fine.</p> <hr> <p>Additionally (having answered the question for not using cooling air for the first layer), I would like to add that sometimes you won't need <em>any</em> cooling at all (for other layers), or <em>very little</em> cooling.</p> <p>Please do note that some filaments do not like to be cooled down too fast; this may lead to weaker layer bonding or other issues. E.g. POM filament will harden very quickly when cooled causing the nozzle to bump on the quickly hardened filament knocking the product over. Also I found that too much cooling air when using PETG leads to "string-cheese" products caused by insufficient layer bonding. ABS is reported to be even more sensitive for cooling (shrinkage during cooling is higher than of PLA or PETG filaments); a frequent advice is not to use filament cooling when using ABS filament.</p>

2018-05-20T11:34:41.073

|prusa-i3|pla|

<p>I noticed that one edge (which is also the starting point of the print) is always bigger than the other three. Additionally, the walls do not have the same thickness as well. The wall thickness (starting from the thick edge) starts very thin and gets thicker till reaching the thick edge again. Does anyone have a clue whats the issue?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeept.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeept.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEvrT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEvrT.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZmxi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZmxi.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

5996

Uneven wall thickness with test cube

<p>This happens when you have poor retraction / oozing. </p> <p><strong>Signs of too high temp and poor retraction</strong> </p> <ol> <li>Thick blob at start point, meaning moltin plastic is oozing out as you change Z position</li> <li>As you see at the end of the line less material, you prematurely oozed out liquid plastic. As the melt zone is depeleated you get thinner lines.</li> </ol> <p><strong>Solutions</strong></p> <ol> <li>Increase retraction distance. This will remove the plastic from the melt zone and prevent some of the oozing.</li> <li>Speed up Z axis lower and raising. Or decrease distances</li> <li>Lower temps. Start with 3 cel increments. You want to go as low as you can without causing print defects.</li> </ol> <p>You will likely need to do 1 and 3. 2 you really shouldn't need after you fix your temps. </p>

2018-05-20T15:36:15.710

|3d-models|3d-design|scanning|

<p>I'm trying to build a headrest for my Sayl office chair. For that, I'm designing a 3d-printed part that's going to fit on one of the existing rods of the chair.</p> <p>Check out this picture:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMzGy.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMzGy.jpg" alt=""></a></p> <p>How would you go about in getting the exact measurements of that white rod? I tried a caliper, and I'm able to get the width and depth, and I can just assume that the rod's profile is a perfect ellipse, which is probably a close estimate. But say that I want to get a more precise measurement. Is there any technique to do that? </p>

5997

Getting precise measurement of a complex rod

<p>In an earlier comment you stated that you cannot take it apart. So without taking it apart, you could try to determine the profile the old-fashion way with a piece of cardboard and a short pencil, just cut the rough shape of the rod and place it onto the rod, then take the short pencil and draw the profile onto the cardboard with the pencil parallel to the rod. Measuring the distance from the pencil center to the pencil radius will give you the profile of the rod with that off-set. This technique, or the technique used to create <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9FlfMIMv7Q" rel="nofollow noreferrer">notches in logs</a> for log cabins may be used to find the profile at various sections which have to be entered in a 3D CAD model program and splined/lofted to get the surface of the rod.</p> <p>Alternatively you could use a profile shape tool carpenters use: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyN8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyN8.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

2018-05-20T23:14:38.813

|z-axis|calibration|layer-height|

<p>I have a problem with my first layer height. But lets start at the beginning:</p> <p>I own a Tevo Tarantula Dual extruder printer with a endstop switch for Z axis. No Auto bed level. 0.4mm nozzle. Everything worked as it should. I home extruder with G28 command and level the bed using a piece of paper or a thickness gauge 0.1mm. In the slicer I set Initial layer height 0.2mm for layer height 0.1mm. The fisrt Layer looked perfect and sticked to the bed fine. a few days ago it stopped in the middle of a print, nozzle clogged. No problem i changed the nozzle to a spare one i had. It is not the first time i took it apart.</p> <p>Here starts my problem: After everything was build together again i home the extruder with G28, level the bed and start a print with the same settings i usualy used to print. But either the first layer didn't stick to the bed at all or looks terrible. i tried to level the bed again and also tried to get it to work with playing with the settings. But with no satisfactorily results.</p> <p>Here is is the part my Question starts: I noticed that the first layer is actually not at the same Z=0 if i use G28 to home and the Z0 it shows when i print a part. For example: Set G28 Level bed with 0.1mm thickness gauge. Then start printing with layer height 0.1mm and initial layer height setting 0.2mm</p> <p>The result should be 0.1+0.1+0.2 =0.4 real layer height (if i also count the 0.1 layer heigth(not sure if this is correct)) the printer shows here a Z of 0.2 But if i meassure it, it is around 0.7mm thats way to much.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIJeL.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIJeL.png" alt="hope this makes my more clear"></a></p> <p>I am confused why this is the case after i changed the nozzle. Considering i leveled the bed the exact same way i did before and used the same slicer. The new nozzle is a little bit shorter but i made sure both nozzle of the dual extruder have the same height. I do not understand why this happens. Is there a way to reset the Z? I tried the M851 code but as far as i understand it, it i used for Auto-Bed leveling. It didn't work anyway, says unknown command.</p> <p>I could work around the problem by adjust the endstop until it somehow works, but then if i want to level the bed and use the G28 code the nozzle would crash into the bed and that is not a satisfactory solution. Would it suffice to set a z-offset in the firmware? I don't have much experience on that area.</p> <blockquote> <p>;FLAVOR:Marlin<br> ;TIME:737<br> ;Filament used: 0.351177m<br> ;Layer height: 0.1<br> ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.2.0<br> M190 S47<br> M104 S197<br> M109 S197<br> M82 ;absolute extrusion mode<br> G21 ;metric values<br> G90 ;absolute positioning<br> M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode<br> M107 ;start with the fan off<br> G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops<br> G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops<br> G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm<br> G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length<br> G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock<br> G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again<br> G1 F9000<br> ;Put printing message on LCD screen<br> M117 Printing...<br> ;LAYER_COUNT:9<br> ;LAYER:0<br> M107<br> M204 S2200<br> G0 F3000 X75.185 Y64.596 Z0.2<br> M204 S1750<br> ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1650 X76.267 Y63.316 E0.06132 </p> </blockquote>

5999

First layer height problem after changing nozzle

<p>this is a common case in my TT.... Please check the y-carriage wheels - on the 2040 and 2020 profile. Mostly you shall find a little wobble on one of the ends, that introduces instability in leveling, so you could level it, home it and another level is needed. In my case, I decided to upgrade for dual-z drive - <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2014187" rel="nofollow noreferrer">please see this</a></p> <p>Another interesting Z upgrade: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2163949" rel="nofollow noreferrer">option two</a></p> <p>We can observe z-wobble by watching the x-axis on the left side (no lead screw), it will have a little delay in response when moving up/down comparing to the other side. </p>

2018-05-24T13:43:25.600

|ultimaker-cura|

<p>I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.</p> <p>However, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can generate the G-code files from models I download from MyMiniFactory.</p> <p>I know it uses PLA and the extrusion temperature should be 210°C. However, I need help with the other settings.</p> <p>Can someone please point me in the right direction? Is there a better software I could be using? Where can I find settings?</p> <p>Thanks.</p> <p>UPDATE: For those wondering "what" settings, I would probably start with the printer and extruder specifications. The following is my best guess.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKEP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Machine settings - Printer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKEP.png" alt="Machine settings - Printer" title="Machine settings - Printer"></a></p> <p>and</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BVaF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Machine settings - Extruder1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BVaF.png" alt="Machine settings - Extruder1" title="Machine settings - Extruder1"></a></p> <p>I'm basing these settings on the device specs on this page: <a href="https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_969800.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Link to Alladinbox specs</a></p>

6018

Cura printer settings for Alladinbox SkyCube 3D

<p>Okay, after some research and experimentation, I've come up with some settings that seem to work.</p> <p>Firstly, some specs about the Alladinbox SkyCube 3D:</p> <ul> <li>Firmware: Marlin</li> <li>Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm</li> <li>Nozzle speed: 20 to 70 mm/s</li> <li>Layer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4 mm</li> <li>Printing area: 110 x 110 x 125 mm (WLH)</li> </ul> <p>Note: There is NO cooling fan present and the base is NOT heated.</p> <p>Now for the actual printing settings... </p> <p>I'm using the PLA supplied with the printer so far, and it works well at a nozzle temperature of 210C. </p> <p>I'm printing at 0.2 mm per layer, which seems to afford to a good level of detail. I've printed a scanned Greco-Roman basin, and the details are very nice indeed.</p> <p>So far I'm using a 20% line filling, and this seems to give the structure a good solidity and strength. I'm also operating the nozzle at its maximum speed of 70 mm/s and it seems to work just fine.</p> <p>Obviously, I'm still experiments, and different materials may require different settings, but overall I'm very happy. I hope this post helps someone.</p>

2018-05-24T15:12:23.967

|support-material|

<p>I want to print a structure that I can embed in a resin and later dissolve. I know that some fancy 3D printing systems have raft materials etc., that can be printed and later removed easily. </p> <p>Can any one suggest a 3D printing material that can be dissolved in say water or another readily available solvent?</p>

6022

3D printing template material

<p>Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.</p> <p>Many 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is important to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant as it will absorb moisture from the air, rendering it useless for printing.</p> <p>One such resource is <a href="https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/175mm-pva-filament-half-kg/sk/M4MJTECR" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MatterHackers</a> which prices a half-kilogram at US$45. The link provides suitably appropriate information:</p> <blockquote> <p>PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) is a water-soluble material that is often used as a support material, but can also be used to print independently. PVA supports are useful for complex designs where removing support material manually is difficult or impossible, but leaving the part in a water bath overnight will completely dissolve this material.</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ytSy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ytSy.png" alt="PVA filament"></a></p>

2018-05-25T00:23:27.163

|g-code|

<p>Ok so I am trying to print a new fusion 360 file that I converted into an STL and then into gcode using cura and I got the gcode loaded onto the SD card and mounted into my Monoprice 3D printer, Maker Select 3D Printer v2, and tried to do a print. Now here is the strange part. When I choose "print file" and then select a gcode to print it takes me back to the main screen and from there the 3D printers screen displays "Printing...0%" for a few seconds. After this it just goes back to displaying "Stepper Disabled." And if it is not stepper disabled it is just a blank screen. I tried to mount and print multiple gcodes just to make sure that it was not the softwares fault and low and behold I was running into the same issue. </p> <p>Now before using today all of the gcode was printing just fine, however for some reason today it decided to give me this issue. </p>

6026

Problem with 3D printer not accepting new print gcodes

<p>Determined Solution </p> <p>Ok so after an hour or so of searching and trying to figure this out, I found that the best to deal with this is by reformating the SD Card once the problem starts. </p> <p>Now I had to make sure that I made a backup of all the files so that I could recover them once the process was complete. </p> <p>Also please note that the problem may have been with one of the files on the SD Card so backing up the SD Card and then restoring the files from your place of storage for the SD card may or may not work.</p> <p>Also, this problem and solution were done on a Monoprice 3D Printer V2 so I am not sure how this would work with any other 3D printer.</p>

2018-05-25T01:19:10.300

|3d-models|support-structures|

<p>I want to render a visual of an mesh I created with a real support structure that a 3d printer would print. I haven't had any luck in finding a way to do this. Is there a program (ideally free) that can generate the proper support structure and export it into a mesh format, like .stl or .obj ?</p>

6027

How can I generate and export the support structure for an object as a mesh?

<p>You could try <a href="http://www.meshmixer.com" rel="noreferrer">Meshmixer</a> its free and the supports generated with it are embedded into the 3D model.</p> <p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Meshmixer-Generate-Supports/" rel="noreferrer">Here</a> you can find a reference on Meshmixer supports. Meshmixer is well known for making custom supports for complex 3D models.</p>

2018-05-25T08:11:14.310

|anet-a8|

<p>Was anyone able to connect the default Anet A8 (2004) display to a MKS GEN L? </p> <p>I've tried direct connection with re-wiring, and see white squares there, but I'm only able to see white squares on the screen as on screenshot:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xc0x9.jpg" rel="noreferrer" title="White squares on the image"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xc0x9.jpg" alt="White squares on the image" title="White squares on the image"></a></p> <p>Wiring:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RjQdZ.png" rel="noreferrer" title="Wiring"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RjQdZ.png" alt="Wiring" title="Wiring"></a></p> <p>The code that is currently used for the display :</p> <ol> <li><p><code>Config.h</code> uses <code>#define ZONESTAR_LCD</code>. Also <code>#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L</code></p></li> <li><p>Config_adv.h uses <code>#define LCD_PROGRESS_BAR</code></p></li> <li><p>Pins were left as they were in config file.</p></li> </ol> <p>Also I've tried replacing them with this numbering (which comes from MKS spec):</p> <pre><code>35 16 25 29 5V 37 17 23 27 GND </code></pre>

6030

Connecting (Anet A8) 2004 display to MKS GEN L

<p>I've got the Anet A8 display working on a RAMPS 1.6 (which basically works exactly the same as a RAMPS 1.4 board). Note that at first connection I got exactly the same display when I connected the LCD to the EXP1 and EXP 2 headers using the "smart adapter".</p> <p>To get the Anet A8 display working on a MKS GEN L (which is basically a RAMPS board as the pin layout of the RAMPS configuration are used in the firmware of the MKS GEN L) you need to forget about the EXP1 and EXP2 headers and the "smart adapter" for the Anet A8 display. Instead you need to connect the Anet A8 display to the AUX2 header. The only thing you would have to do (from the hardware side) is to switch the cables that are connected to the pin 1 and pin 2. I used Dupont connectors and cables. Pin 1 on AUX2 is VCC and pin 2 on AUX2 is GND, this is reversed on the Anet A8 display.</p> <p>From the software side you need to set the following constants:</p> <pre><code>#define ULTRA_LCD // Character based </code></pre> <p>and</p> <pre><code>#define ZONESTAR_LCD </code></pre> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqGyq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqGyq.jpg" alt="Anet A8 display working on RAMPS 1.6"></a></p> <p>Please note that in the photo you still see the "smart adapter" with flat ribbon cables, but they are not connected to a screen, the reason for them being there is I also tested the full graphic discount controller in a previous session. The Anet A8 display is connected to the flat ribbon cable on AUX2 just above the top-left most stepper driver.</p> <hr> <p>UPDATE: At the time of writing and the use of an older Marlin version, this required to set <code>#define ULTRA_LCD</code>. In Marlin 1.1.9 you do not need to set <code>#define ULTRA_LCD</code> explicitly, this is now intrinsically set by <code>#define ZONESTAR_LCD</code>. To elaborate on this, the <code>#define ZONESTAR_LCD</code> sets the constant <code>#define ULTIPANEL</code> which sets constant <code>#define ULTRA_LCD</code> in <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>Conditionals_LCD.h</code></a>.</p>

2018-05-28T04:36:45.853

|slicing|stl|

<p>I need to add some simple image renders of STL files to a document. I currently open the STL files in Preview or one of the slicers and grab a screen shot.</p> <p>Is there an easier or automatic way to generate PNG images from STL files on a Mac?</p>

6046

How can I create PNG image files from STL files?

<p>You can use OpenSCAD, as stated in the accepted answer. Here is a version of that script that works for Windows for anyone who needs it, as I did.</p> <pre><code># Change height and width to the desired output image dimensions, in pixels. # The path to openscad.exe may also have to be adjusted based on your installation. height=1080 width=1080 for i in *.stl; do T=__tmp__<span class="math-container">$i b=`basename "$</span>i"` echo import\(\"./<span class="math-container">$i\"\)\; &gt; "$</span>T" C:/'Program Files'/OpenSCAD/openscad.exe -o "<span class="math-container">$b".png --autocenter --viewall --imgsize=$</span>width,<span class="math-container">$height "$</span>T" rm "$T" done </code></pre>

2018-05-29T01:40:38.827

|heated-bed|adhesion|

<p>In cura one of the options under "build plate adhesion" is "skirt", which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed?</p>

6055

How do skirts aid print bed adhesion?

<p><strong>To use skirts as a bed adhesion tool</strong></p> <ol> <li>Make the value of Skirt Offset from part to 0 </li> <li>Set the number of Skirt outlines to 10 or 15 ,so that it forms an extended outer perimeter of the first layer</li> </ol> <p>notes:</p> <ul> <li>This also doubles as a primer for the nozzle </li> <li>Also can be used to make minor adjustments to the distance between the bed and the nozzle , before the first layer begins printing </li> </ul>

2018-05-29T10:56:45.593

|extruder|heat-management|

<p>The printer stopped heating the extruder in the middle of the print and I noticed it getting cooled down. After a few seconds, I heard a ticking noise near the filament (which could probably mean the filament was being pushed into a cold extruder and was skipping. Now, when I try to heat the extruder, it won't heat up. What could've gone broken?</p>

6058

German RepRep Neo can't heat the extruder

<p>first, check the breakers <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpRGh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fpRGh.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://www.germanreprap.com/myfactory/web/cms/produkt/100279.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pic source</a></p> <h2>secondary stuff</h2> <p>please see a list of item to check, that could point you to the source:</p> <ol> <li>heater cable cut/melted/loose => the best way will be to check the resistance (it shall be around 3.3 Ohms) from the heater cable terminals on the mainboard, if that fails it could be a wire on heater itself.</li> <li>with the heating switch on - measure the voltage on terminals - shall be 12V, if not - that could suggest a mainboard failure or mosfet failure (in case of mosfet you could measure if there is an input signal given on the middle pin)</li> <li>there also could be a breaker that was engaged due to short circuit on the wires (the main board layout is not known to me and it is not clear form manual I found online)</li> </ol>

2018-05-29T12:48:31.387

|anet-a6|

<p>After lots of hassle, I finally made the printer work.</p> <p>I also got myself one bed leveling sensor from eBay, <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/LJ18A3-8-Z-BX-3D-Printer-Inductive-Sensor-Bed-Auto-Level-Plug-For-Anet-A8-A2-A6/322718359043?hash=item4b23835e03:g:H14AAOSwicJZr8ro" rel="nofollow noreferrer">LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 3D Printer Inductive Sensor Bed Auto Level +Plug For Anet A8 A2 A6</a>. </p> <p>I'm not sure how to setup it. Should I print some holders for it first? Where are they?</p> <p>Should I somehow update the firmware?</p>

6060

Anet A6 install bed leveling sensor

<p>You need to do two or three things:</p> <ol> <li>Print a holder or bracket for the probe, if your probe did not come with one, and looking at the eBay item listing, it doesn't appear to include a bracket. There are a number of designs out there, take a look at thingiverse, for example: <ul> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2424360" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Installing the BLtouch on Anet A6</a> - This one includes a PDF guide.</li> <li><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2030075" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Anet A6 Autolevel Sensor Support 18mm</a></li> </ul></li> <li>Change the firmware - <strike>SkyNet 3D</strike>, Marlin is a good choice, or Anet's own </li> <li>You <em>may</em> need to change the Z-stops</li> </ol> <p>There is a step by step guide here, <a href="https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/autobedleveling" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Autolevel for the A8 Anet 3D Printer</a>. It is for the A8 but most, if not all, of the steps will apply to the A6</p>

2018-05-30T13:03:56.937

|print-quality|monoprice-select-mini|

<p>I have been having an issue with certain portions of the walls of certain prints becoming separated from the rest of the model. It happens with smooth vertical edges. </p> <p>Specifically, this model, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2517008" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> ID Badge Holder</a>, on the edges where the lanyard would be attached. And on several places on this model, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253220" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cat Necklace</a>. </p> <p>Here is the resulting issue: </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VU11w.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Detached print wall"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VU11w.jpg" alt="Detached print wall" title="Detached print wall"></a></p> <p>I am quite new to 3D printing, so I'm sure this is an easy fix, I just don't know about it yet. </p> <p>I am printing with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, using Hatchbox PLA, and the default slicing settings inside Cura. I don't have problems with any of the D&amp;D figures I've printed, or some of the other thicker square pieces I've printed. I know I've got kind of a bargain printer; if it's just a quality issue I have to learn to live with, no problem. But if an expert knows of some slicer settings to tweak for these kinds of prints with flat vertical walls, I'd love to give it a try.</p>

6067

What is causing the walls of my prints to separate?

<p>Yup I can tell at a glance it is under extrusion. I bet the issue is temp.</p> <p>Test your steps per MM for E. See <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide</a></p> <blockquote> <p>Measure Required tools: vernier caliper with depth gauge, or similar tool that can precisely measure 100mm. Your hob effective diameter is unlikely to be exactly 7mm.</p> <p>Remove the hot-end from extruder so you don't waste filament. Feed in some filament. Using the extruder body as a reference point, mark the filament at 120mm. Tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament. Measure the distance from the extruder body to the mark you made. It will be over 20mm if it moved too little, under if it moved too far. new_e_steps = old_e_steps * (100 / distance_actually_moved) … or, old_e_steps * (100 / (120 - distance_to_mark)) Set this value in your firmware. You may need to re-flash your board. Sprinter/Marlin supports M92 Ennn to set this value temporarily. Repeat from Step 3 until you get between 96-104mm. Then continue with this guide. You'll dial it in perfectly later on. Don't flash firmware yet. There's a further refinement to this value below. Why? The back-pressure from the hot-end alters how much plastic each hob revolution pushes, and you'll probably end up tightening your idler more which reduces the hob effective diameter. Re-attach hot end.</p> </blockquote> <p>If that comes out correct, your Temps are too low. </p> <p>To fix this, you will need to play around and increase your temps by 2-3 degrees until the infill comes out correctly. Do not go over the minimum needed else you will have other issues.</p> <p>Also check for obstructions such as carbon buildup in the nozzle. In addition to the tightness of your filament tensioner on your extruder drive if you have one. </p> <p>I will say, I had this issue on my Ultimaker 2. An apparent design flaw caused the filament drive to lose power over time or possibly wear on the tube causing extra drag (bowden tube only issues). I corrected it by increasing the extrusion multiplier in simplify3d. However that is a bandaid and the real issue should be addressed. In my case in the end I replaced the drive with a bondtech. </p>

2018-06-01T11:00:48.853

|reprap|firmware|repetier|troubleshooting|

<p>I'm running a RepRap based ORDBOT Hadron on Repetier firmware version 1.0 that I built from a kit. I've slowly worked out the kinks but this one is an utter doozy.</p> <p>Basically I occasionally get shifting in the y-axis - the print bed moves on this axis - but only in the positive y direction. Never in the negative y direction. I'm not sure if I'm using those terms correctly, but the bed shifts forwards (negative y), so subsequent print moves are displaced in the positive y direction relative to the rest of the print. I'm calling that a "positive y direction shift".</p> <p>The offending y-axis is belt-driven by a single NEMA 17 stepper motor. The belt is tight (not too tight I don't think) and well-aligned. It would be difficult for it to become unaligned or lose tension since it runs along a piece of extruded aluminium that is very rigid.</p> <p>It took a long time to notice the pattern. Some prints don't have the problem, and some prints I simply cannot finish no matter what I do. Finally I found a model that reliably reproduces the problem, on the same move, on about 50% or so of its layers.</p> <p>This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp; down. Wild.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlckP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp; down"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IlckP.jpg" alt="This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp; down" title="This piece is supposed to be straight up &amp; down"></a></p> <p>The moves that cause the shift are on this red line.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOUJN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="The moves that cause the shift are on this red line"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EOUJN.jpg" alt="The moves that cause the shift are on this red line" title="The moves that cause the shift are on this red line"></a></p> <p>The issue seems to only occur on curved moves with a radius of approximately 2-3&nbsp;mm that point their convex side towards the y-negative direction. Larger or smaller radius moves don't cause the problem. In fact sharp turns don't cause the problem either. <strong>Only 2-3&nbsp;mm radius moves with their convex side towards y-negative produce the issue.</strong> No other kind of move causes the problem.</p> <p>I think the offending move is highlighted here in red, but it might be one of the two moves either side of it. I haven't been able to narrow it down.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1K7s.pnga" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Cross-section of print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1K7s.pnga" alt="Cross-section of print" title="Cross-section of print"></a></p> <p>Also note that there is no opportunity on this part of the G-code for the hotend to snag on the model, and I see no evidence of this when it happens. If it were, I imagine a small model like this would simply dislodge, rather than jamming the y-axis.</p> <p><s>I've tried lowering the y-axis acceleration, to the point where you can hear the y-axis spooling up and down as it slowly accelerates to and fro, and the problem remains. What is especially baffling is that if I leave the y-axis acceleration at 300&nbsp;mm/s², the shifting never happens in the negative y-direction, only in the positive. And even if I lower it to 50&nbsp;mm/s², the shifting still happens towards positive y. So somehow this problem is <em>independent</em> of y-axis acceleration as set in the firmware.</p> <p>One thing I have noticed, is that even if you can visibly see how slowly the y-axis accelerates, when the problem occurs, the y-axis seems to launch itself into overdrive and whip around that corner as fast as possible, to the point that it overwhelms itself. I'm almost certain the moves that cause the skip are breaking the acceleration limit, but I have no idea what to do about it. It seems like a bug in the firmware, like instead of reducing the acceleration it's increasing the acceleration.</p> <p>I would guess that somewhere in the code there should be a mathf.abs() around a term, so it slows down the move whether it's positive or negative, but that's pure speculation.</s></p> <p><strong>The above paragraphs no longer appear to be true. I changed the y acceleration limit to 50&nbsp;mm/s² and the piece printed perfectly. It's possible the firmware update made a difference. I've also enabled EEPROM, so that may have changed something as well. It's also possible that by re-compiling the firmware every time I made a change in the past, I made an error that misled me about the problem. I will try to reproduce the problem and post an answer about it if I manage to, otherwise I may just close the question.</strong></p> <p>I'm hesitant to say the firmware is the problem because a) I don't know enough to confirm it and b) it makes the solution super difficult: either wait for a solution from the developers, or write it myself. Whilst I could find &amp; write the solution, it would take a lot of work and I'm hoping it's simpler than that.</p> <p>I've recently upgraded the Repetier firmware from 0.92 to 1.0, and the problem has remained. This also has happened when controlling the printer from Repetier Host, Repetier Server and Octopi, so I'm confident it's not the controller. I'm also using Slic3r.</p> <p>Here are some photos of the y-axis belt as requested:</p> <p>Motor: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/swVT0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Motor"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/swVT0.jpg" alt="Motor" title="Motor"></a></p> <p>Idler: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOZUi.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Idler"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOZUi.jpg" alt="Idler" title="Idler"></a></p>

6078

Perplexing Y-axis shifting problem - only in positive y direction, and only on moves of a very specific radius

<p>You see this for a few reason. First you are going too fast and you are getting belt shift from the whip lash. You can mitigate that by going slower and adjusting your Jerk settings to lower. Though usually this is not a consistent wall. Usually you see <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-shifting-or-misalignment" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>.</p> <p>That said it is likely you have not adjusted the current to your stepper motors correctly. I don't know if your system has <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pololus</a>, but you will want to adjust your current carefully. If you hear thudding from your stepper or the stepper cannot move, you have not done this correctly. Note I've fried many boards adjusting these, make sure to do it with the board unplugged or with a ceramic screw driver. <a href="https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/Tuning+Motor+Current/37" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> is a more complete guide.</p> <p>A last option is your system has too much friction as Ultimaker points out in their trouble shooting <a href="https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning" rel="nofollow noreferrer">guide</a>. You said your belts are very tight. I wonder if you have them So tight you are actually creating binding. Check to make sure the belts are not rubbing in any way.</p> <blockquote> <p>Leaning: A leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Make sure that the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub up against the main body of the printer. Similarly make sure that the pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not touching the side of the printer. If they are you must move the pulley closer to the stepper motor.</p> </blockquote> <p>My bet is it's current.</p>

2018-06-04T07:42:42.550

|prusa-i3|g-code|microsd|sd|

<p>I have various G-code files stored at SDCard attached to my Prusa i3 MK2S printer. They are either for ABS, PLA or SBS. The more files I had on the SD card, the more I was running into trouble of finding for which material is which G-code. </p> <p>To tackle the situation I created folders <code>ABS</code>, <code>PLA</code> and <code>SBS</code> and put new files into those directories.</p> <hr> <p>Is there any better method of finding, backwards from G-code, which material settings were intended to be used? </p> <p>If so, is there a way to read temperature settings from G-code by Prusa i3 firmware without printing the actual model?</p>

6085

How to sort G-code on SD card based on material (ABS|PLA|SBS)?

<p>Good question as I also ran into some files not remembering for which purpose or which material I printed these. The online G-code visualizers do not display the temperature or the correct filament width, so basically that won't help you (unless you modify the open source programs...). Reading from firmware would not be possible without adding a new feature, as far as I know, this is not implemented in Marlin Firmware or in Prusa firmware (which is based on Marlin).</p> <p>When using a printer server like OctoPrint, you can store your G-code files in a folder structure that you can define yourself; so basically create a directory structure based on the material type, brand, etc.</p> <p>However, it is relatively easy to write a small program in Python to read a file and interpret the lines (even if you're not a programmer). There are lots of tutorials and examples to find to open files read the file e.g. line by line and detect strings to identify the settings for G-codes M104/M109 (hot end temperature) and M140/M190 (bed temperature). Usually you slice your models with a specific set of bed and hot end temperature (which you know), so basically you can find out which material was meant to be printed with the G-code file. You could even let the program sort the files for you by moving them into separate folders.</p> <p>I'll add it to my list of things I'd like to do some rainy day! :)</p> <p><em>Note that some printers use different, or even custom G-codes to control bed temperature; e.g. when reading Ultimaker 3 G-code files you cannot see the bed temperature!</em></p>

2018-06-04T13:14:29.050

|z-axis|bed-leveling|monoprice-select-mini|

<p>I'm having an issue with my very first printer, a Monoprice Select Mini V2. After doing about 20 successful prints on it, the Z axis is suddenly acting very odd.</p> <p>When I 'home' the Z axis and move the nozzle on the X and Y, I can do the paper test on all four corners of the bed without issue - the leveling is near-perfect. But when I start a print job, the nozzle is much lower - by at least 1-2 mm. </p> <p>This causes the print head to grind against the print bed, which I unfortunately need to replace as it's pretty much destroyed. The nozzle is so much lower at the start of a print job than it is at the home position that it ground a permanent line on the bed. It's trying to go so low, there's enough pressure on the nozzle to not let any filament escape - leaving a bad gouge like I dragged a screwdriver across the print surface. Not good.</p> <p>It's not the Z-axis limiter switch. I confirmed that is both working and secured tightly to the printer body. When homing the Z axis, I can hear the switch click and the printer stops at that position correctly. It's only when I start a print job that it ends up lower, almost as if it's ignoring the switch.</p> <p>I also eliminated my slicer software from the equation by printing something I had printed successfully just a couple hours prior - without reslicing or modifying the GCODE file at all. I'm at the point now where I can't print anything that I could before, without having this problem. My heat and speed settings remained untouched.</p> <p>How can I solve this? The issue popped up just after doing a successful print. What gives? I've heard of the opposite problem (Z-Axis 'too high'), especially after changing nozzles, but not 'too low', and I've never seen it where the print job actually starts lower than the true zero position. Help!</p>

6088

Z-Axis zero/home position is higher than the actual print starting position

<p>I just had this issue with my Monoprice Select Mini V2. It seems there's some bug in the software if you already have the 3D printer at its lowest Z-elevation before starting the home calibration. To make sure it prints correctly, move the head up using the manual controls, then hit home. It should then go to the correct default location. I then adjusted my print height to that default home location and it seems to be working again.</p> <p>Hope this helps other people still having difficultly with this is</p>

2018-06-04T17:12:49.220

|extruder|filament|diy-3d-printer|abs|

<p>We wanted to test the post process properties of PVA but did not want to print anything. We unloaded the ABS that was in the printer and then started loading some PVA. After the PVA was loaded we let it keep going through the loading process until it pushed all the PVA out and we had our test sample. We then stopped the loading process and started the loading process again to put the ABS back so we could continue with normal printing procedures. Now, the ABS will not load into the right side and started making a clicking/ticking noise. Our printer is a Flashforge Dreamer. What is wrong with my printer and how can I fix it?</p>

6090

3D printer filament will not load after running the printer out of filament

<p>PVA is nasty filament to print (from experience). I use it in the Ultimaker 3 in a separate designed core (BB) and even with that core the filament frequently cooks up and carbonizes clogging the nozzle resulting in grinding of the filament at the feeder (it also attracts water really easy, so keep it in the bag with desiccant bags).</p> <p>To clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. E.g. by performing a <code>cold pull</code> or using the <code>atomic method</code>. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see <a href="https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-Unclogging-the-Hot-End-Using-the-Cold-Pull-Method" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> or <a href="https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. </p> <p>The trick is that you pull out all the goo inside the nozzle, you do that by raising the temperature and sticking some (cleaning or high temperature) filament (your ABS will do fine) to the goo. When the temperature lowers, you quickly pull and hope that some of the goo sticks to you cleaning filament. Cut of the tip and repeat until no goo or burnt particles come out and you can push the cleaning filament through the nozzle. You do not need the automatic feeding, it's all manual labor, just raise temperature through the menu and press the lever of the extruder to load the cleaning filament, lower temp and pull back after cooling a bit while pressing the extruder lever.</p>

2018-06-05T01:22:33.147

|build-plate|

<p>2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.</p> <p>I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.</p> <p>The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so. I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.</p> <p>What typically causes the plate clips to come free? Is there anything I can do about it? Will adding more clips around the edges help? I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...</p>

6096

What can cause the build plate to slip?

<p>Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.</p>

2018-06-05T09:35:19.560

|3d-models|surface|

<p>How much should I subdivide a surface in preparation for 3D printing?</p> <p>For computer graphics, I know that I need to balance the smoothness and the rendering time, but for printing, I'd like it to be completely smooth. Are there any reasons why I shouldn't subdivide a lot (e.g. 7x) in preparation for 3D printing?</p>

6100

Subdivision surface for STL files

<p>Subdividing an existing mesh further won't do anything because you're not adding additional detail, just representing the same thing with more triangles. Subdividing as "preparation" doesn't make much sense. You should make sure the mesh is created with sufficient detail <em>while modelling</em>.</p> <p>A mesh created for 3d printing should generally have a lot more triangles than one created for use in rendering, but within reason. It doesn't make sense to make the mesh (much) more detailed than the printer can print, and similarly having lots of triangles can make the slicer slow or unreliable. As a very rough guideline, I would say that 10.000-100.000 triangles per model is reasonable (but this obviously depends on the size and level of detail).</p> <p>Some slicers may output G-code that will have segments corresponding to each and every triangle in the model, even if these segments are very tiny. This may cause the printer to slow down a lot while printing, but most slicers take care of this by merging small segments into larger ones. Depending on your slicer, you might have to watch out for not having the triangles be so tiny that the number of segments created becomes a problem.</p>

2018-06-05T13:37:43.077

|marlin|ramps-1.4|bltouch|

<p>Has anyone configured BLTouch with Marlin firmware?</p> <p>I could only find videos about older firmware version. I followed <a href="https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/f5a1c8_77c6538efc934dbeab2f6e06e175ec35.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this document</a>. To avoid causing any damage to the printer, I removed all connections, took the board out and connected a stepper to Z-axis terminal and BLTouch to Z-min and servo 1. All other axes are not connected. X-min and Y-min end stops were shorted using jumper (Mine is NC configuration). </p> <p>After updating the firmware, I can move the X and Y steppers, but not Z stepper. There's a blue light glowing inside BLTouch, which turns off if I remove Servo connections.</p> <p>The <code>M119</code> command shows all end stops are open.</p> <p>Do I have to change pull up settings of end stop?</p> <p>I cuurently have:</p> <ul> <li>Marlin 1.1.6</li> <li>BLTouch Classic</li> </ul> <p>Here's my <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hX5qZ3nnSY7cxfvX1J8z8wPrAGqynfKL" rel="nofollow noreferrer">configuration</a> file</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIoLA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIoLA.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

6102

Configuring BLTouch with Marlin firmware

<p><strong>Edit:</strong> <em>The answer below reflected the original question and upload of the configuration that was incorrectly configured. The value of this answer can be found in checking your configuration thoroughly before you post a question. It also answers the question whether pull-up resistors need to be set for the end stops.</em></p> <hr> <p>Basically you need to follow the instructions of the manual/sheet you mention in your question. Be sure to <strong>get all the changes correct in your configuration.h</strong> file!</p> <p>E.g. in your configuration</p> <pre><code>//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command </code></pre> <p>should be</p> <pre><code>#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command </code></pre> <p>So no servo was defined (the servo pulls up the pin of the BLTouch sensor)! Also your BLTouch delay is <code>375</code> while <code>100</code> is prescribed. Please check that you managed to get all the proposed changes in the configuration file (as I stopped comparing for you after finding 2 errors in your configuration!) as I believe that you have not updated your configuration correctly as described. There should be no differences in setup for Marlin 1.1.6 or 1.1.8.</p> <p><strong>To answer your question</strong>: No, you do not need to change pull-up settings.</p>

2018-06-07T07:27:17.280

|hotend|extrusion|development|

<p>IANAE (I am not an engineer), but I've been wondering: wouldn't it make more sense to limit the length of the melt-zone and hot-end as much as possible? I've been having a lot of problems with nylon causing jams inside the heat-block, this being the region where the filament is no longer rigid, but becomes squishy then liquid as it is heated. </p> <p>In my extruder (E3d v6) there is a cold section, then a heat-break then about 20mm of hot-end.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICWoS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICWoS.jpg" alt="Extruder cross-section with heat break"></a></p> <p>If the heating of the filament took place at the last possible moment, say the last couple of mm before the orifice, wouldn't this not only alleviate jamming problems caused by soft filament deforming, but also allow for much more precision with extrusion - less hysteresis due to the reduced volume of semi-liquid material.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFbAQ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFbAQ.png" alt="Extruder cross-section without heat break"></a></p> <p>I'd imagine that this would work by having a heated nozzle tip, say a nichrome ring around the nozzle orifice, and as the filament hits the inside of the bottom of the nozzle it melts and is forced out the hole.</p>

6111

Would a really short melt-zone be beneficial

<p>There is a trade-off between the length of the melt zone and the speed at which you can print. The filament itself is somewhat of an insulator, so as the outside of the filament is heated up by being in contact with the melt zone, the inside stays cold. Therefore, the filament needs a certain amount of time inside the melt zone for the inside to fully melt. If you have a shorter melt zone, you need to print more slowly to give the filament enough time to melt. This is precisely the reason why the <a href="https://e3d-online.com/volcano-kits" rel="noreferrer">E3D volcano</a> exists. It has a longer melt zone, so you can print more quickly.</p> <p>You can partially compensate for a shorter melt zone by heating the nozzle up more, but there is an upper limit to how hot you can go (you don't want the outside of the filament to <em>burn</em> before the inside is melted).</p>

2018-06-07T19:31:09.973

|pla|filament-choice|stability|

<p>I'm in the process of building my own head unit / stereo prototype for a car, which will have a 3D-printed enclosure.</p> <p>My concern is that cars can get quite hot in the sun, and even more so if you live in hot climates. Some estimations put the interior of cars getting up to 50-60&nbsp;°C, sometimes even in only 20&nbsp;°C weather due to the 'greenhouse' effect created in the car. I live in a fairly temperate climate, but the summers can still get up to 20-29&nbsp;°C (80-85&nbsp;°F), and my car might get up to 60&nbsp;°C/150&nbsp;°F on a hot day.</p> <p>The part won't be exposed <em>directly</em> to the sun, but will obviously be exposed to heat both from the interior of the car when in the sun, and potentially from the engine radiating heat through the firewall, though the latter factor will differ from car to car.</p> <p>Should I be concerned using PLA for my part? If not, what material, if any, would be better suited for these possible temperatures (other than metal)?</p>

6119

Can you put PLA parts in your car (in the sun)?

<p>Just for completeness sake, one can print a casting mould and then cast UV resilient resins from the mould.</p> <p>The mould would be made of PLA. Because it is quite brittle, you would need to make a multi-part mould if you want it to be re-usable. Otherwise, if you are using something heat-resistant then you can melt or break the mould once you are done.</p>

2018-06-09T10:47:22.053

|filament|pla|wanhao|

<p>I changed the filament (PLA) in my Wanhao Duplicator I3+. I ended the first try to print when I saw that the 'lines' were too thin. I re-sliced with a higher temperature (195°C instead of 190°C). Now the print started without a problem but after about 25% no more filament came out of the extruder. What can be the reason and how can I resolve it?</p> <p>The filament is from Vertex, grey. The object that I use to test is a 20&nbsp;mm hollow cube from Thingiverse that I have used for the previous filament too.</p> <p>I am not sure that this is a clogging problem since the print starts with no problems. It just stopped after 25%. When I started another print I was able to finish by increasing the temperature. </p>

6130

Extrusion stops during print

<p>I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @kdtop. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve the problem I changed the temperature to 200°C. Now the output became consistent and my print finished. It was not as good as the one that I did with my previous filament. The top was not as neatly closed. Only the last 2 layers covered more or less for 100% the surface (perhaps 200°C is too high for this?).</p> <p>For me the solution is to higher the temperature to 200°C (or perhaps 205°C).</p>

2018-06-13T16:29:46.320

|ghosting|knowledgebase|

<p>I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2. It is the kind where the moving plate (heat bed) provides the Y-axis and the moving extruder provides the X-axis. It has a fairly rigid sheet metal frame. In addition, I added steel rods has Z-braces.</p> <p>I see some pretty obvious ghosting. This happens for an inch or so right after every sharp turn. Clearly, vibration is to be blamed. I found two simple techniques that improves the situation:</p> <ol> <li>soft floor mats under the feet (allowing the machine to move freely)</li> <li>bolt the machine to the desk (preventing the machine from moving)</li> </ol> <p>Surprisingly, these two opposites provided exact same level of improvement for ghosting. My question is: <em>which approach is better</em>? Moreover, to further improvement, should I use...</p> <ul> <li>(extreme version of 1) hanging the printer from the ceiling using bungee cords (maximize the freedom to move); or...</li> <li>(extreme version of 2) bolt the printer to garage floor (0 freedom to move) ?</li> </ul>

6172

Fix ghosting problem (damping versus bolting printer to a desk)

<p>I got good results by mounting my printer on a concrete paving slab (obviously cleaned and sealed) and placing that on a foam mat. The combination of high mass and flexible mount has substantially reduced ghosting in my prints. Not my idea; I found it on a video on YouTube (linked below). Honestly not sure if this is the best solution from an engineering perspective (I like the idea suggested above of trying to find the resonant frequency) but it's easy, fast and cheap. And as a bonus, it has substantially reduced the noise level of my setup.</p> <p><div class="youtube-embed"><div> <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/y08v6PY_7ak?start=0"></iframe> </div></div></p>

2018-06-16T14:01:06.227

|filament|prusa-i3|filled-pla|

<p>Has anyone run into problems printing with Proto-pasta's HTPLA on a Prusa MK3 (or any printer really)?</p> <p>I picked up some samples from PP, specifically their glitter filament and a couple of the premium HTPLA filaments. I printed one small piece with the glitter filament the first night I got the package, but I haven't been able to get any of the filaments to print since.</p> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/275396962" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here's a video I shot outlining the issue's I'm running into.</a></p> <p>The problem seems to be that the filaments won't extrude from the nozzle and this problem applies to all of the samples I got. If I unload the HTPLA and print with any of the other filaments I have been printing with (various inland filaments) they all print out fine.</p> <p>I thought maybe I had a clogged nozzle so I did a couple of cold pulls with a different filament. The pulls came out clean each time. I tried loading the HTPLA back in and while the filament extrudes fine during the MK3's loading process it still doesn't extrude when trying to run an actual print.</p> <p>I've read through <a href="https://www.proto-pasta.com/blogs/how-to/avoid-clogs-with-pla-composites-and-all-metal-hotends" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Proto-pastas page on avoiding clogs with composite PLAs</a> and adjusted my slicer settings accordingly but still can't seem to get a print out.</p> <p>I'm printing with:</p> <ul> <li>The Prusa i3 MK3</li> <li>Slic3r Prusa Edition <ul> <li>Tried Extruder temp as low as 195c and as high as 220c</li> <li>Speed of 50mm/s with first layer of 20 or 30mm/s</li> <li>Tried at .15 and .2 mm layer heights</li> </ul> </li> <li>Stardust Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm</li> <li>Cloverleaf Metallic Green HTPLA - 1.75mm</li> <li>Winter Blue Glitter Flake HTPLA - 1.75mm</li> </ul> <p>Any ideas??</p> <h1>UPDATE</h1> <p>Over the weekend I talked a bit with proto-pasta and did some tests on my own. Proto-pasta suggested disabling the filament sensor on my printer since the additives in some exotic filaments can falsely trigger the sensor.</p> <p>I went to try this, but my sensor was already off.</p> <p>I tried switching back to a known good filament and found that I couldn't get <em>anything</em> to extrude anymore. After researching a bit online I suspected that there may be an issue with a clogged nozzle, so I did a couple of cold pulls and then tried one of my known good filaments again. This time I was able to extrude and print out a full test without issue.</p> <p>After that I switched to one of the HTPLAs and it started printing. I thought all was good, but during the course of the test print the nozzle clogged again and stoped extruding.</p> <p>So I'm close, but not quite there. I'm wondering if cold pulling again to unclog the nozzle and then walking through some of the settings changes outlined in proto-pasta's page on avoiding clogs will help. If I spent the entire time walking through that page with an <em>already clogged</em> nozzle it would make sense that nothing worked. That page is more a list of preventative measures rather than reactive.</p> <p>I'm going to dig in more tonight. I'll post back with an update.</p> <h1>Reply from Proto-pasta</h1> <p>I got a reply from Proto-pasta for some questions I asked regarding the nozzle dimensions I should use with their filament. The 0.4 nozzle borehole is not too small for the glitter, though the larger diameter will help it sparkle more.</p> <blockquote> <p>Thank you for following up. Yes cold pulls that leave behind material can cause all sorts of trouble. It happens to me on the Lulzbot quite often, probably my biggest gripe about that machine. Anyways, on to your questions:</p> <ul> <li><p>Is this accurate? Should I print the glitter filament with a nozzle with a larger borehole diameter? A larger bore is not needed, the glitter flake is quite small and flows through a 0.4 nozzle fine. However, using a 0.4 nozzle and printing layer heights of 0.1 or 0.05 with glitter can cause a shift in apparent color as it forces the glitter to lay down flat.</p> </li> <li><p>If so, what diameter should I use? 0.6? While not needed, a 0.6 nozzle does allow for a better sparkle or shine from the glitter filament.</p> </li> <li><p>Are there other proto-pasta filaments that require a larger borehole? Generally any metal or wood filled filament benefits from a large nozzle size. For example, wood filaments most people suggest a 0.5 for better flow but they do work at 0.4. For us, we like to use 0.6 on the metal fills as it allows for a good flow.</p> </li> <li><p>I have a spool of matte fiber htpla that I got with my last order. Can I print this with my nozzle? The matte fiber was designed as a non-abasive alternative to the Carbon Fiber filament. It does not require a larger nozzle, a 0.4 will work just fine.</p> </li> </ul> </blockquote>

6183

Issues with Proto-pasta filament extruding on prusa mk3

<h1>tl;dr</h1> <p>I had a dragging idler pulley that was causing extrusion issues. Opening the idler pulley door and working it a bit with my finger resolve the issue. </p> <h1>The detailed explanation</h1> <p>So after two weeks or so of troubleshooting, banging my head, taking a break, and coming back to it I'm finally getting good prints again.</p> <p>I do believe the original problem started with the clogged nozzle due to the bore hole diameter being too small for the glitter filament as mentioned by Axel in the post comments (a bit rude about it, but still probably true), but there were other issues that I ran into. </p> <h1>Troubleshooting steps</h1> <h2>General cleaning</h2> <p>After I switched back to inland filament (which had been working fine for months) I was still having extrusion issues. At this point it was due to the clog (I suspect).</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik0ha.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ik0ha.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>I tried several steps to unclog the nozzle including <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/l/en/article/WWVRzOY1dX-clogged-nozzle" rel="noreferrer">the steps suggested by prusa support</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8uvh6kvr54&amp;t=315s" rel="noreferrer">cleaning techniques suggested by Tom</a> amongst other places. </p> <p>I also picked up <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00CWDO1XU" rel="noreferrer">a couple of pencil brushes on amazon</a> including a small brass brush that's perfect for cleaning off the extruder pulley teeth. </p> <h2>Cold pulls</h2> <p>During these steps, I think I introduces the second problem without being aware of it. I perform a bunch of cold pulls (explained by Tom in his video and other videos and posts). During one of these cold pulls I forgot to loosen the MK3's idler pulley door before tugging. Once I noticed it I loosened the door, but I think that tug may have affected the idler pully getting it a bit gritty (I don't know <em>how</em> it would have done that, but it's my current guess). </p> <p>At this point I was still getting extrusion issues and didn't think about the idler pulley being the issue, so thinking that the nozzle was still the issue I ordered a second E3D nozzle and some Ethyl Acetate which dissolves PLA.</p> <h2>Notes on Nozzles and Ethyl Acetate</h2> <h3>E3D nozzles</h3> <p>A couple of helpful points I learned while researching these purchases. </p> <p>There are a <em>lot</em> of cheap nozzles that say they work on the E3D, but be sure to read the comments from whatever nozzle you're looking at because apparently a lot of them either don't fit or don't print well. </p> <p>I ended up purchasing a replacement nozzle sold directly from E3D to be safe. </p> <h3>Ethyl acetate</h3> <p>As far as the Ethyl Acetate, I was having a hard time finding it online when looking for it as a solvent without having to purchase the chemical in a giant jar. I didn't want to buy a jug, I only needed a bit. </p> <p>After doing a bit more research I found out that it's the same chemical that <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_acetate#Entomological_killing_agent" rel="noreferrer">entomologists use to kill insects for preservation</a> and when you look for the chemical from that context you can find it sold in much smaller quantities. I was able to find <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0755JYFJS" rel="noreferrer">a small jar of ethyl acetate on amazon for 7 dollars</a>. Smaller, safer, and cheaper. </p> <h2>Finding the actual problem</h2> <p>Once the nozzle and ethyl acetate came in I pulled off the old nozzle, dropped it into the ethyl acetate to soak, put the new nozzle on (per the instructions from prusa's website), and reaccelerated the printer just to be safe. I tried printing a test block and it seemed better, so I then tried a larger print and while the printed model seemed better, it was still obviously having extrusion issues and crumpled in my hand. </p> <p>With the nozzle ruled out, I started looking elsewhere on the printer. After watching <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2C_LkHyCNM" rel="noreferrer">a video from the 3D Printing Nerd on extrusion issues he was having on his MK3</a> I decided to check the extruder pulleys. When I tried to open my extruder idler pulley door I noticed I couldn't actually get it open; it seemed to be stuck on the bottom. I tried to free the bottom of the door, but couldn't without forcing it past my comfort level. Instead, I unscrewed <a href="https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/5.+E-axis+assembly/510?lang=en#s8310" rel="noreferrer">the top of the pulley door</a> to remove it. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jWuoE.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jWuoE.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>From here I noticed two things, I didn't get the pulley teeth as clean as I though I had before and the idler pulley's mounting rod was extended just a bit (which is what was causing it to stick at the bottom). I adjusted the rod and put the door back on. It was printing better but still had extrusion issues. </p> <p>I then watched the pulley during the filament loading and notices that while the extruder stepper motor was turning smooth, the idler pulley was stuttering a bit while turning. I imagine those little stops and starts were what was causing the extrusion issue. </p> <p>I opened the idler door back up and worked the idler pulley a bit with my finger. It started to spin free (maybe there was gunk in it? maybe it was rubbing a bit against the mount? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯), so I closed the door and screwed it back in tight. </p> <p>Ran a test print -> perfect. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ploY0.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ploY0.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>I've run several prints increasing in complexity and it seems like I'm back to printing well. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVcRA.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVcRA.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <h2>How I introduced my own problem</h2> <p>As I noted above in the explanation, I think I introduced the problem during a cold pull where I forgot to loosen the idler pulley door. I know this explanation is super verbose, but when looking around, even after fixing the printer, I haven't really seen many people noting that on the MK3 you should make sure the door isn't screwed down when performing the cold pull. It's def a common sense move, but I don't see it mentioned as a potential for introducing a problem. </p> <p>Also I didn't see a dragging idler pulley as a possible cause of extrusion issue so I thought I'd note it here as well. </p> <p>Hopefully if anyone else has a similar problem on the MK3 this will be a source of help. </p>

2018-06-17T11:49:21.653

|pla|abs|ventilation|enclosure|

<p>I am building an enclosure for my 3D printer (Anycubic i3 Mega) and I'm wondering about heat and ventilation for my machine. My enclosure is is build from five 50x50x50&nbsp;cm Plexiglass frames glued together. Currently I'm using only PLA for printing. </p> <ul> <li>Does my enclosure need ventilation so my 3D printer would not overheat? </li> <li>If yes, what type of ventilation? <ul> <li>Is only drilling holes enough? or </li> <li>Do I need to add some ventilator? </li> </ul></li> <li>If I would print with ABS in the future would it change the answer?</li> </ul>

6187

Enclosure Ventilation

<p>When printing PLA you do not require an enclosure! PLA does not shrink as much as e.g. ABS. When printing PLA you should definitely ventilate your casing. I guess your steppers are also located in the enclosure, so you should be careful of not overheating the enclosure. Not only the steppers, but also think of the cold end cooling, too much heat in the enclosure means that the cold end cannot cool enough to prevent the filament to melt prematurely; this can lead to clogs. Also note that the printer electronics board may become too hot too (too hot stepper drivers will cause steppers to miss steps).</p> <blockquote> <p><em>I once tried a towel over a Ultimaker 3 Extended to print a difficult filament to keep some heat in the enclosure; I encountered the above problems when I was young(er) and inexperienced :) We learn by trial and error some times!</em></p> </blockquote> <p>However, ABS, requires control over the temperature during printing. Draft or uneven temperatures may lead to problems related to layer separation or heat bed separation. Many of the high-end box printers have <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49779-installing-the-advanced-3d-printing-kit-for-the-ultimaker-3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">doors available to enclose the front</a>, this results in an enclosure with an open top (sometimes even for <a href="https://www.makerpoint.nl/en/ultimaker-cover-ultimaker-3-extended.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the top there are covers available</a>). The heat of the bed then heats up the enclosure. A constant temperature of 45°C should not be too high to cause problems. When boxing it up completely, you could use a temperature sensor to monitor the enclosure temperature and schedule a fan to ventilate when it gets too hot. </p>

2018-06-19T11:53:31.143

|prusa-i3|reprap|

<p>I am building a <strong>AlfaMendel 3D printer</strong> <em>(<strong>edited</strong> : The original question named it to be Prusa Mendel I2)</em>. I printed the extruder drive <strong>using PLA material</strong> from the STL available in the package but I'm not able to insert the hobbed drive as well as the filament in it. The dimensions of hobbed drive is correct. </p> <p>Is the problem related to shrinking of print material while printing the extruder drive or something else.</p> <p>I have included few pics of the extruder drive and hobbed drive.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIhLs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Filament hole in extruder drive"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZIhLs.jpg" alt="Filament hole in extruder drive" title="Filament hole in extruder drive"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YbaYk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Extruder drive"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YbaYk.jpg" alt="Extruder drive" title="Extruder drive"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFbGF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Close up of extruder drive"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFbGF.jpg" alt="Close up of extruder drive" title="Close up of extruder drive"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxIBH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Hobbed Drive"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxIBH.jpg" alt="Hobbed Drive" title="Hobbed Drive"></a></p> <p>This image shows the maximum possible insertion of hobbed drive in the extruder drive.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmgsF.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Trying to insert the hobbed drive in the extruder drive"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HmgsF.jpg" alt="Trying to insert the hobbed drive in the extruder drive" title="Trying to insert the hobbed drive in the extruder drive"></a></p>

6201

Not able to insert hobbed drive and filament in the extruder drive

<p>Your parts are not in the Prusa Mendel i2 as found <a href="http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_(iteration_2)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> or <a href="https://github.com/josefprusa/PrusaMendel" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p> <p>Also note, quote:</p> <blockquote> <p>Parts included in Github repository have the wrong dimensions for the nut traps! Download the correct version from <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8252" rel="nofollow noreferrer">[Thingiverse Greg's Hinged Accesible Extruder]</a></p> </blockquote> <p>Are you sure you have the correct parts for the original Prusa Mendel i2? Maybe you have a different version? The original extruder mount uses an M8 hobbed bolt, not an MK8 hobbed extruder gear. The first is 8 mm in diameter, the latter is 9 mm in diameter.</p> <hr> <p><strong>Edit:</strong> After you updated your post to hint to the correct printer, it appears that my answer still holds. You did use the incorrect extruder gear. The 9 mm gear doesn't fit in the extruder part as it requires an 8 mm diameter extruder gear.</p> <p>It might be difficult to find a 8 mm hobbed gear with a 3 mm shaft diameter, they are usually 5 mm (as in the stepper shaft diameter) or 8 mm (as in the diameter of 8 mm bolts that are frequently used for extruder setups). You could redesign the part (load STL in a 3D CAD program and make the changes). By the way, PLA should not shrink so much. As can be seen in the photo's, it looks like your current printer does not print very accurately, that may also contribute.</p>

2018-06-20T00:03:11.560

|calibration|creality-ender-4|

<p>I have just assembled the Creality3D Ender-4 kit a couple of days ago. I completed some rewiring and everything seems to be wired correctly, I'm able to auto-home successfully, but this is the problem I'm having:</p> <p>I tried printing a <a href="https://makerware.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865" rel="nofollow noreferrer">calibration cube</a>. The first problem I noticed is that the printing is starting on one corner instead of the center as specified on the Printer Settings in CURA (check settings below).</p> <p>Second problem is that I'm getting significant distortion. The movement of the printer seems to be fine, no jerks of weird sounds. I tried all I know but I honestly don't know how to proceed with this. I have a couple of hours of experience in 3D Printing so I'm completely lost.</p> <p>This is the result I got (Model printed with Raft for adhesion):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXkCz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Model printed with Raft for adhesion"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXkCz.png" alt="Model printed with Raft for adhesion" title="Model printed with Raft for adhesion"></a></p> <p>These are my CURA settings:</p> <p><strong>Printer</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaqvA.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="CURA settings - Printer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaqvA.png" alt="CURA settings - Printer" title="CURA settings - Printer"></a></p> <p><strong>Extruder</strong></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfRst.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="CURA settings - Extruder"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfRst.png" alt="CURA settings - Extruder" title="CURA settings - Extruder"></a></p>

6204

How to calibrate Ender-4

<p>Fix was actually pretty simple.</p> <p>I just removed the printer that I had setup on CURA following the manual provided by Creality (found on the provided SD Card) and started from scratch.</p> <p>The one that worked was actually setting up the printer as a <a href="https://www.inky.mx/MPRESORA-CREALITY-CR-10-,728_1513022174?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6p6pnq_v2wIVQh1pCh3FyQntEAQYBCABEgJ1hPD_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality CR-10</a> and then just changing the XYZ dimensions. This setup has the <em>Origin at Center</em> option unchecked as suggested in the comments. That's all it took...</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nt1io.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/nt1io.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> </p> <p><strong>New results:</strong> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8SIH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8SIH.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

2018-06-20T18:27:14.750

|printer-building|electronics|

<p>I'm about to build myself a 3D-printer.</p> <p>After a long search for a brain for this one I came across the <a href="http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/images/4/45/GT2560_wiring.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">GT2560</a> from Geeetech, because it leaves a solid impression on me. The manufacturer himself has a quite <a href="http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560" rel="nofollow noreferrer">extensive wiki page</a> for this board. </p> <p>My idea now was to use an ATX power supply. </p> <p>The PSU is a <em><a href="https://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/675" rel="nofollow noreferrer">be quiet! BN257</a></em>. On 12&nbsp;V (combined) it can deliver 324&nbsp;W. On 12V1 there is 20&nbsp;A, on 12V2 16&nbsp;A.</p> <p>Would that be enough or would you rather use a 24&nbsp;V power supply?</p> <p>Since I have read some reports about the Anet A8 and its danger of overloading, I am a bit uncertain, even if the GT2560 looks a lot better than the A8.</p> <p>Are the connections to which the heating bed and the extruder are connected sufficiently large to withstand 10&nbsp;A and 15&nbsp;A respectively, or should I solder the cables directly to the board from the very first?</p> <p>According to the information I received from Dr. Search Engine, MOSFETs of type STB55NF06 are used. According to the data sheet, these can withstand loads up to 60&nbsp;V/55&nbsp;A. I don't necessarily need to replace them with external ones, do I?</p>

6206

Geeetech GT2560: Electronic safety and power source

<p>Whether 350 Watt is enough depends on the amount of Ampere can be generated over the 12 V lines. Computer power supplies add up the power of all the voltages! A nameless or cheap 350 Watt PSU may not deliver enough power (in the sense that they may never reach the given power), you should check that out. The high-end PSU's are usually well fabricated and can usually deliver more power (but should not be taken for granted!).</p> <ul> <li>a typical (214x214 mm) heatbed is about 12 V/1.5 Ω = 8 Amperes (about 100 Watt),</li> <li>a typical hotend is about 40 Watt,</li> <li>steppers and board could draw another 5 Amperes (about 60 Watt)</li> </ul> <p>This totals to about 200 Watt, which your PSU should be able to generate without a problem.</p> <p>Those green connectors plug in and out of the board don't they, usually with those small pins, transporting up to 10 Amperes is not recommended, you should look up the ratings of those connectors.</p>

2018-06-23T14:41:38.567

|g-code|ramps-1.4|laser|

<p>I have an old laser engraver that runs from Windows 98SE and DOS-6. Yup, still works fine but a pain as I regularly have to open it up and unplug and re-seat all the ribbon connectors. Fifteen of them and I tire of that fast.</p> <p>I am thinking of pulling out all the electronics and installing a TB6600 stepper drivers and Arduino to run G-code. My order of desire is based on price, RAMPS, Smoothie and the AWC708C. I'd actually like to stay away from the AWC as it is closed source and I would be stuck with whatever it has.</p> <p>With the existing NEMA 17 steppers I can get rapids to 400&nbsp;mm/s. Will a RAMPS system drive this fast enough? It doesn't have to be that fast, but close to and certainly not below about 200&nbsp;mm/sec.</p> <p>I have been searching but cannot find any actual figures achieved. If not then I guess my second option is the smoothie.</p>

6214

Laser Engraver with Smoothie, RAMPS 1.4 or AWC708C?

<p>Marlin supports a stepping frequency of up to 40kHz. For a pretty typical setup with 100 steps/mm, this translates to 400 mm/s - obviously, if you use higher microstepping settings or use finer pitched belts you will get a lower maximum speed.</p>

2018-06-24T11:40:27.047

|3d-models|3d-design|g-code|fdm|

<p>I was reading this research paper titled <em><a href="https://sci-hub.tw/https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7103095/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sub-modeling Finite Element Analysis of 3D Printed Structures</a></em>. In this, firstly, the author is trying to create a sketch for Engineering analysis using the 3D printing path coordinates and integrating it to a CAD software like Autodesk Inventor.</p> <p>It says,</p> <blockquote> <p>By analyzing the corresponding G-code for the desired structure, important information can be extracted, such as the coordinated of the 3D printing path, key points, paths of printing and non-printing paths. </p> <p>...</p> <p><em>The coordinate of the 3D printing path can then be imported into CAD software to obtain the corresponding sketch and consequently a solid body for each layer. Most of commercial CAD software packages are capable of this task. For this Purpose we have chosen Autodesk Inventor.</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Paper is attached here: <a href="https://sci-hub.tw/https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7103095/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Research Paper in subject</a></p> <p>Can anyone help me out with how this can be done?</p>

6217

Linking the 3D printing path coordinates to CAD for modelling

<p>The wording in the paper is quite verbose and somewhat unclear. All it says is they read the G-code file and <em>somehow</em> turn it into a 3D model.</p> <p>A g-code file is just a list of linear moves. Here is an example snippet I took from a random file (keep in mind a typical file would consist of thousands of such lines):</p> <pre><code>G1 X140.621 Y114.840 E0.0065 G1 X140.804 Y114.765 E0.0129 G1 X141.016 Y114.737 E0.0199 G1 X158.984 Y114.737 E0.6070 G1 X159.196 Y114.765 E0.6140 </code></pre> <p>Each move is relative to the previous, so the second line of the code (for example) tells the printer to move to X=140.804 and Y=114.765 from the previous position (X=140.621, Y=114.840) while extruding an amount of material equal to 0.0129-0.0065=0.0064 mm of filament.</p> <p>It appears that the authors have developed a toolchain to turn a G-code file into a 3D model, translating every extrusion segment into a part of a solid body (from the pictures, it appears that for a given move segment, they create an ellipsoidal extrusion and merge all of these together into a single solid body) - see Figure 9 in the paper.</p>

2018-06-24T23:48:25.937

|slic3r|octoprint|

<p>I have configured slic3r's OctoPrint Upload section with the with hostname ("octopi") and port (80) of my OctoPrint server. The Test button indicates a successful connection.</p> <p>But when I use "Send to Printer" I get an HTTP error 302.</p> <p>How can I fix this? <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKSFV.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKSFV.png" alt="Error 302"></a></p>

6223

Why does slic3r get an error "302 moved temporarily" when uploading to OctoPrint?

<p>Specific answer: use "octopi.local" rather than "octopi", since that will properly resolve to the correct Octopi IP Address.</p> <hr> <p>More generally, investigating the network traffic on my network (AT&amp;T Fiber Home) revealed these facts regarding the octopi server:</p> <ul> <li>With a browser, the octopi can be accessed via either "octopi:80" or "octopi.local:80".</li> <li>However, "octopi" actually talks to the network router, which sends a "302" message with the target name "octopi.local".</li> <li>So, for the browser it seems either name is correct, but in actuality only "octopi.local" is the correct network name for the octopi system.</li> </ul> <p>And these facts regarding the slic3r configuration:</p> <ul> <li>slic3r does not process "302" messages, instead treating them as errors. This is OK, since a properly configured network won't be generating these.</li> <li>the slic3r connection test is incomplete. It reports success because it receives an HTTP response, even though the response is a 302 rather than the version information that it is requesting.</li> </ul> <p>So in this particular case, entering "octopi.local" instead of "octopi" corrected the error. If you receive a 302 error, you will need to research and verify the exact IP address or host name for the target Octopi system.</p> <p>A future version of slic3r should probably report an error on the "test" button if it doesn't (a) get a proper 200 return code and (b) return the proper version information as slic3r is requesting.</p>

2018-06-25T00:34:15.073

|marlin|delta|bed-leveling|

<p>I'm trying to get my printer to auto level its bed, with Marlin firmware using the following:</p> <ul> <li>Printer: Kossel Linear plus (Delta 3D printer)</li> <li>Board: MKS Base V1.5</li> <li>Firmware: Marlin customized</li> </ul> <p>I go into the menu on my LCD, and go to the prepare screen. The screen has the following options: </p> <ul> <li>Auto home </li> <li>Level Bed </li> <li>Bed leveling: off</li> </ul> <p>When I select the "Auto home" function, the printer uses the stops at the top of the delta to zero itself.<br> When I select the "Level bed" function, the printer once again uses the end stops to level itself.<br> If I turn the Bed leveling to ON, then the Level Bed function will do the exact same thing.</p> <p>My auto-leveling device is connected to the Z-axis end-stop, and looks like so:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iT48D.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Auto-leveling device connected to the Z-axis end-stop"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iT48D.jpg" alt="Auto-leveling device connected to the Z-axis end-stop" title="Auto-leveling device connected to the Z-axis end-stop"></a></p> <p>I have the <code>#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR</code> line in my config.h, as well as the <code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN</code> line. I'm not sure why the printer doesn't actually lower the head to the plate and press the endstop.</p> <p>Any clues as to how to make the printer level the bed and not home the XY axis?</p>

6225

Marlin Firmware Auto Leveling only re-centers the XY-axis (Delta printer)

<p>You are correct to define the constants <code>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR</code> and <code>Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN</code>, be sure to define the following also:</p> <pre><code>#define Z_MAX_POS MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS </code></pre> <p>and</p> <pre><code>#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 300 // Distance between the nozzle to printbed after homing </code></pre> <ul> <li><em>Note that 300 should be the distance from nozzle to bed after homing.</em></li> </ul> <p>Please look into the configuration files of this <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2784940/files" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kossel Linear Plus</a> and compare them with your own configuration files, you may have missed something. </p>

2018-06-25T16:19:52.930

|3d-models|slicing|

<p>I have been given a proprietary 3D file of a real world item from an item manufacturer with the obligations not to hand it out to anyone to produce a print in a low single digit percentge scale of the object. The object model I was handed was given in STL format, and contains even the tiny geometry of the internals. The first set of files given did come with walls that became too thin to be printable in some areas, and I had to ask them to thicken these parts, which they did.</p> <p>Now, these files <em>still</em> contain tons of redundant internal geometry), like bolts that would be M20 or something IRL. The technical design is actually produced in a 1:1 scale - and thus much of the item's complexity is retained in scaling and slicing, because I was provided with neat, nested shells that don't intersect at all. A tiny piece of internal geometry after slicing for illustration without giving much about the actual object (which is under DND).</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>ALL of this internal is superflous, waste of material and additional print time.</p> <p>The STL of this item contains (according to Meshmixer) about 40 shells, most of them representing single bolts, while the really relevant parts are all in the shell 1. The really problematic part is though, that even ditching these 39 superfous shells, the space reserved for them and a lot of internal geometry is left behind when I try to get rid of the internal geometry.</p> <p>Saturday I tried for hours to simplify the model first and then stitch away tons of the internal geometry with blender, but while this did reduce print time greatly for the internal cavities were gone, the simplification did mess up other parts of the model to a degree that wasn't nice anymore and it messed up the scaling. Also, it was very time consuming - 6 hours or more - which makes this a very bad time-effect ratio. The print with the retaining 2 % of the vertices was... ok, but not as nice as with the half million vertices from the original file, mainly because I had to simplify the model <em>first</em> to even have a chance to see into the model to get the internal cavity vertices grabbed and removed/merged, before fixing any holes left from the mercyless treatment by Meshmixer's auto-repair feature.</p> <p><strong>Is there a way to analyse a model for internal structure and remove them for slicing without having to remodel a 500k vertex / 50 MB object in its full? It would be best if such a way was somewhat automated.</strong></p> <p>My setup usually uses <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software" rel="noreferrer">Cura</a> as a slicing engine, my modeling softwares of choice are - in this order - <a href="https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview?mktvar002=685066&amp;mkwid=sV3AFxPXf%7Cpcrid%7C151820528550%7Cpkw%7Cfusion%20360%7Cpmt%7Ce%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7Cpgrid%7C39045227510%7Cptaid%7Ckwd-295025727776%7C&amp;intent=&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_source=google&amp;utm_campaign=GGL_Fusion-360_DE-EN_BR_SEM&amp;utm_term=fusion%20360&amp;utm_content=sV3AFxPXf%7Cpcrid%7C151820528550%7Cpkw%7Cfusion%20360%7Cpmt%7Ce%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7Cpgrid%7C39045227510%7Cptaid%7Ckwd-295025727776%7C&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwpcLZBRCnARIsAMPBgF1N3idbNzM7lBo-tGNVNN_J86wSOpYFEgYp9Gq7iz-05tnYg596a_kaAvh9EALw_wcB" rel="noreferrer">Fusion360</a> or <a href="https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software" rel="noreferrer">DesignSpark Mechanical</a>. If nothing else helps and I have to attack singe vertices I do my way around <a href="https://www.blender.org/" rel="noreferrer">Blender</a>^{auto-updated via Steam}. <a href="http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html" rel="noreferrer">Meshmixer</a> I usually use only to fix up models before slicing.</p>

6230

Easy way to refine a 3D-model for 3D printing by removing internal geometry

<p>About 10 minutes after writing the question, it suddenly dawned on me, that I was not using Meshmixer to its full potential, and especially not a simple property of Cura:</p> <ul> <li>Cura can discard all parts of a model, that are intersecting a closed volume and thus are <em>inside</em> another volume - fixing intersecting shells this way. This option is called "<a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20424-mesh-fixes" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Union Overlapping Volumes</a>"</li> <li>Meshmixer can, using the meshmix tool, add simple and somewhat complex geometries to specific places in given size and orientation.</li> </ul> <p>Now, these two parts can be used to get rid or complex internal geometry by intentionally setting it up an intersecting shell. Usually intersecting shells are a no-no for good 3D design, but by having something - for example a cylinder - intersect just the internal geometry and enclosing it, these parts <em>vanish</em> in the slicing, if the slicer is set to fix intersecting shells by ignoring internal geometry. Cura does so with a simple setting, one that seems to be on by default in the 3.3.1 distribution. </p> <p>So the odd solution to <em>how to reduce a model's internal geometry without impacting the outer look</em> can be this at times: </p> <ul> <li>Manually <strong>add</strong> geometry, that <em>(fully) encloses</em> the internal geometry and turns it into an intersecting shell, allowing (some) slicer softwares to ignore this part.</li> </ul> <p>To illustrate, almost the same area of the object before and after the added cylinder:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KP7Ev.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5V78.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c5V78.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>As one can see, the structure became much simpler, as the cylinder cuts away all the internal structure (the 'spokes' and 'axle' one might want to identify from the left picture, but that would be a misidentification) is gone. Much less internal geometry is retained and instead it is now filled with a cylindrical space of nice and fast(er) to print infill, here "Quarter Cubic".</p> <p>While this is just a <em>partly</em> automated solution - demanding the manual addition of the intentional intersecting shell - I am yet to be taught about a <em>fully</em> automated way.</p>

2018-06-28T00:14:49.520

|software|

<p>I'm trying to print a model that looks like this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxEDs.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxEDs.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>at a size of approximately 10"x7"x7". I've tried 3 times now, with various different infill and shell settings, and had it fail all 3 times in the same way at the same point: right at the point where the central column begins to angle back (which is a bit higher than where the two side columns angle back--those angles print just fine) the whole thing ends up detached somehow and I end up with messes like this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3jv3.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S3jv3.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgcQ9.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgcQ9.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>How can I figure out what's going wrong with this print? I've already wasted a non-trivial amount of time and filament on this, and it's starting to drive me up the wall. Somehow, I've got the wrong settings to make this geometry print, but I can't seem to find any settings that actually work.</p> <p>Using the Raise3D N2 Plus dual-extruder printer.</p> <p><strong>EDIT:</strong> WRT questions raised in the comments:</p> <p>The extruder isn't clogging. It's continuing to print; it's just that at the point where the central column angles back, the whole thing separates and I end up with a distinct layer that prints straight up and down rather than angling inward.</p> <p>I'm using PLA at 215°C and 3 wall layers.</p> <p>This problem seems to be specific to this model; I've been able to print other large things before without problems.</p> <p>Never heard of MeshMixer, but <a href="https://apps.autodesk.com/FUSION/en/Detail/Index?id=4449224772584128239&amp;os=Win64&amp;appLang=en" rel="nofollow noreferrer">the reviews on the download page</a> make it appear to be a very buggy and wouldn't work at all, at least in the current version, and it requires a registration to download even though it's nominally free, so I think I'll pass on this one.</p>

6244

What is wrong with this angle?

<p>Hex infill patterns are normally chosen for strength, as the honeycomb resists force in many directions. However, hex infill patterns are slow to print and the older, simpler fill patterns print faster and provide sufficient support for solid architectural models.</p> <p>Models with shallow roof angles of less than 45 degrees are challenging to print and often result in "air prints" where unsupported filament cascades into a sorry tangle of sadness. Shallow roofs are challenging because each horizontal filament overlaps very little with the preceding adjacent filament. This is where infill proves critical, since the infill supports these filament bridges as they cross each infill line segment.</p> <p>Slicing software has only recently introduced the hex fill pattern because the code to print a hex infill is VERY complicated. You can see this in the picture as all those fine lines of retracted filament scattered throughout the hex infill. Earlier, simpler fills such as diagonal lines provide simpler longer paths for the slicer to implement. Bridging works best at speed over many supporting points. Excessive retraction causes the extruder to "stutter", and makes bridging difficult.</p> <p>It may therefore help to choose a simpler fill pattern for printing this model and reserve hex infill for simpler models requiring utmost strength.</p>

2018-06-28T13:24:45.037

|extruder|anet-a8|

<ul> <li><p><em>This post was taken from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor#comment9221_5097">this comment</a>, as the OP did not repost <a href="http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor#answer-6143">their deleted answer</a> as a new question.</em></p></li> <li><p><em>See associated post on SE.Meta: <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/311849/is-it-possible-to-attribute-a-wiki-post-to-a-user">Is it possible to attribute a wiki post to a user?</a></em></p></li> </ul> <hr> <p>With respect to this question: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor">Anet A8 reading 739&#176;C from the extruder thermistor!</a></p> <p>Having read the issue, it seems that this is a common problem for the ANET3D board. I'd like to ask two questions:</p> <ol> <li><p>Is it possible to sever connections to the ATMEGA and use the hardware itself while controlled with the Raspberry Pi or some other dev board?</p></li> <li><p>While waiting for a new board (seems to be the only cost/time effective choice), is there any way to use the other temperature circuit (likely having to do some work in Arduino IDE)? </p></li> </ol> <p>My hot end decided to set itself to 265°C while my bed is reading the new thermistor on the new Hot End just fine. I need to get a few prints made while waiting on funds to replace the board for full functionality.</p> <p>I figure #1 is too much to hope for, but I have to ask. So, if you swap the heater circuits, what do you have to modify in <code>configuration.h</code> to convince the firmware to accept the modified input?</p>

6247

How to use an Anet A8 control board with a damaged AVR IC?

<p><em>This post was taken from <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5097/anet-a8-reading-739c-from-the-extruder-thermistor#comment9222_5097">Tooniis's comment</a>.</em></p> <hr> <p>I've been doing #2 for a week now. I swapped ports of the nozzle and hotbed. Now I have a functional nozzle but the bed cannot be heated. The new hardware should arrive soon though. As for #1, it would be very hard to do since the ATmega chip is an SMD package. </p> <p>In <code>sanguino.h</code> there are two lines which define the pins for the hotbed thermistor and the nozzle thermistor. One of them is <code>6</code> and the other is <code>7</code>, and I just swapped those two. The lines are next to each other.</p>

2018-06-29T10:25:09.957

|prusa-i3|print-quality|fdm|calibration|troubleshooting|

<p>I just re-ran all basic calibration steps from the Original Prusa i3 MK2 Manual.</p> <p>Now, when doing the first layer calibration, lines that are running in positive X direction are ok, while those running in negative X direction are severely squished.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zzEl.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zzEl.jpg" alt="Print of the default V2Calibration.gcode file on my Prusa i3 MK2"></a> <em>(The "waviness" of my print bed is an artifact of the camera lens distortion of my smartphone)</em></p> <p>I already did Bed level correction, so each line is exactly the same width over its entire distance and tried to raise the live-adjust Z, but that leads to the thin lines not adhering at all. My printer is 100% stock, I modified nothing about it. </p> <p>What can I do to troubleshoot this further?</p>

6260

Line width changes depending on the direction the print head moves

<p>Due to the advice from @0scar i formulate my answer in the comments as a proper answer ;)</p> <p>Check the nozzle, if it is in shape and good condition. I scratched my nozzle over the metal heat bed by accident...it becomes nasty... and produced inconsistent line widths. Since the metal of most nozzles is brass it is easy to machine...and easy to deform. And since you will need several nozzles over time get some new ones and try with them.</p> <p>Also not every new nozzle will be perfect, so defect products happen, especially if they are cheap and have really tight measurements. </p>