The Liverpool Standard and General Commercial Advertiser.
Liverpool, Merseyside, England, 1841-10-01 00:00:00

itself into the Shannon. On its banks, a few miles above,
lies the ancient and thriving town of Askeaton, celebrated
for the cascade from which it takes its name ; and the ruins
of its castle, and abbey, both erected by the long powerful,
i% but now e.,:tinct, Earls of Drnrnrnond, and presenting ex-
traordinarr attr.ictions to the antiquarian. They are not,
however. s isible front on shipboard. southward of Askea-
ton, a few miles, :ire the towns of Ratlikeale and Newcastle,
The upper works of the Erin-go-Bragh, which had been situated in a low wooded country. Crossing this hay or hider:-
partially damaged by the storm which she encountered on ture, which terminates on the west in the large island of
her vayage from Liverpool, having been repaired, and the Achnish, the voyager passes on the south side of a hidden
vessel put in crack order, under the active superintendanee reef, called the Beeves Rocks, indicated by another round
of her commander, Captain Kennedy, I gladly accepted of beacon tower rising from the water. A fine Liverpool ship
that gentleman's invitation to proceed with her, as his guest, called the Cicero, was lost on theae rocks about nine years
on her first trip down the Shannon, to Kilrush. The morn- ago. Here, including the inlet in the south, and the estuary
ing was cloudy, with occasional showers, and—an unusual of the Fergus on the north of the direct course of the stream,
circumstance at so advanced a period of the year, it being the the noble Shannon expands to a breadth of from twelve to
beginning of May—the Clare mountains that rise to a consi- fifteen miles. The islands at the mouth of the Fergus pre-
derable height on the northward were sprinkled with snow sent a very beautiful appearance. On one of them, called
that had fallen in the night. Little inconvenience, however, Canon Island, a tall square tower stands conspicuous,—the
was experienced by the passengers (who were numerous, and remains, it is said, of a religious structure, the superior or
included not a few of the gentler sex,) from the state of the " canon "of which drew tribute from the neighbouring MO-
weather ; the spacious saloon affording an agreeable retreat, nasteries in the olden time. East of Canon Island, and di-
whence views of the opposite shores could be obtained from rectly north of the Beeves, lies Low Island, one of the finest
the side windows. The steam had been got up at an early of the group, all of which are fertile, being on a stratum of
hour, and, taking advantage of the tide, we started from the limestone. They are tenanted by wealthy farmers. Near
quay at twenty minutes before seven o'clock. The vessel the small village of Shanagolden, a short distance from As-
dashed along gallantly, her average speed throughout, inde- keaton, is seen an isolated grassy hill, terminating in two
pendently of the tideway, being about 94 knots an hour. conical peaks, apparently artificial, and formed doubtless at
The quays and warehouses, the lofty tower of the cathedral, a very remote period for the purposes of defence. On one of
'Wellesley-bridge, and other conspicuous objects, soon dimi- the peaks stands the remains of a tower, with a fosse and
nished in the distance, and the scenery of the city was suc- earthen wall encircling the cone of the hill below. The other
ceeded by the fresher aspect of the ever-varying landscape. peak terminates in a " rath "or circular hill fort, surrounded
It were impossible, with the limits to which these sketches with fosses and earthwork. This eminence is called the Hill
are prescribed, to do adequate justice to the interesting sce- of Sharnid, or " the old place. It is supposed to be of much
nery of the Lower Shannon, which alone would afford ample older date than the castle, which was held by the Earls of
materials fora considerable volume. lam therefore con- Desmond previous to the 17th century. The peasantry hold
strained to essay a simple outline of the more striking and these raths in high veneration as the especial abodes of the
conspicuous objects that awaken the curiosity and command fairies, or " good people, " and will on no consideration dis
the admiration of the stranger, when he first voyages along turb them, even for the purposes of cultivation.
its ample stream, whether on business or for recreation. One of the most striking objects in the distant landscape,
Immediately below the city, on the banks, are several on the Limerick side, is Knockfeerena, the Hill of Truth,"
neat villas. The principal one on the left, a pavillion-roofed or, more properly, " Knock Dhoian Firinne," the mountain
house amongst trees is the seat of Harvey, Esq. The of Donn of Truth—which Donn, the chief of the fairies, is
gardens are extensive. A little higher up is the residence of here supposed to maintain his abode, and (with his aerial sub-
his brother, who is the principal agent, at Limerick, of the jects) to rule the weather, holding the clouds or vapours for
Dublin Steam Company. Nearly opposite to these, on the some time to give warning of approaching rain, " As," says
Clare side, stands a handsome cottage in the Elizabethan Mr. S. 0. Reilly, " the appearance of mist on that moun-
style, and behind it another villa, both with pleasure-grounds tain in the morning is considered an infallible sign that the
tastefully laid out. Further north is a larger residence with day will be rainy—Donn is called Donn Firinne,' Donn of
a park, appropriated as a cavalry barrack. The river runs, Truth." The hill is very high, and with its steepest side to
for a considerable distance below, almost due west. It is the west ; and the appearance of vapours on its top previous
here about half a mile broad, and is fringed with smooth to rain may be readily accounted for without the interposition
green sward, the fine stone embankment on the north side of supernatural agency.
(before noticed) forming a delightful promenade for the A few miles below the Beeves Rocks, the river again nar-
citizens. Southward from this point the landscape is finely rows, though still forming a magnificent stream of from four
wooded, and terminates in a range of hills. Not far distant, to five miles broad ; and the voyager passes between Foynes
(about three miles from the city, and on the road thence to Island, on the south, (27 miles from Limerick,) and Cahir-
the Lakes of Killarney,) the voyager will notice Alungreet con, (the beautiful seat of J. Bindon Scott, Esq., already de-
Church, and the venerable ruins of Mungreet Priory, on an scribed,) on the north. The scenery on both sides is here
eminence. The latter is of great antiquity, having, it is highly diversified and picturesque, the beauties of an exten-
said, been founded by the patron saint of Ireland. One sive lake and its islands being harmonized with that of the
historian states, that in its palmy days it was the abode of interior landscape. A succession of elegant seats, and 1
no fewer than one thousand five hundred monirs! All that may say marine villas, occupy the south bank of the river in
now remains of its former grandeur—supposing it to have continuous succession as far as Tarhert, nine miles further
been of the extent implied—is part of a Babel end with a down
gothic window, and some fragments of walls and buttresses,
covered with moss and ivy. On the north side of the river
there is here an extensive plain, forming part of the valley
of the Shannon, well cultivated, and enlivened with farm
houses. A considerable portion of this plain appears, from
a vessel's deck, to be some feet below the level of the river
in ordinary tides ; and but for the embankment it would, no
doubt, be subject to inundation during heavy floods. It is
bounded on the north by the lofty mountainous range of
Cratloe, on the south acclivity of which, spreading in dark
luxuriance over a large extent of ground, stands Cratloe
Wood, which, about twenty years ago, was so infested with
daring and reckless banditti, that it was unsafe to travel in
the neighbouring districts, even in the day, without a guard.
Happily the marauders, who, as is well remarked by a recent
accomplished writer, there sheltered during years of tur-
• bulent foray, on the one hand, and melancholy mismanage-
ment on the other," were put down, and tranquility now
prevails throughout that locality. The eastern part of the
range is cultivated nearly to its top.
Close to the first bend, northwardly, of the river, and on its
south bank, is Tervoe, the seat of William Munsey, Esq.,
finely situated amongst stately woods. A small bay or creek,
close to the river, gives shelter to the pleasure yacht of the
proprietor of the demesne. A little lower down, and in a
more elevated site, commanding a fine view of the river,
stands Cooper Hill—the elegant mansion of Mrs. Cooper,
also finely wooded. The stream then again makes a curve,
and continues its course to the westward, leaving, on the
north bank, " Cratloe House,"—a hunting seat of
O'Brien, Esq.', and several castellated remains. This gentle-
:-Aan has a fine estate in Sussex, where he principally resides.
Here, on both sides are thriving woods and plantations. The
game is preserved at Cratloe, and is said to be very
abundant.
The next prominent object, and certainly one of the most
interesting in Ireland, is Carrig-o-gunniel Castle, the broken
tower and walls of which frown in isolated grandeur, from a
lofty rock-capped hill, on the south side of the river. The
base and face of the hill are thickly wooded, and the site—
chosen doubtless for defence—commands a most extensive
and glorious prospect of the Shannon, and the surrounding
district for many miles. The Irish name which it bears
signifies " The Rock of the Candle," and is derived from a
legend to the following effect :—ln ancient times a hut stood
on the site of the castle, the sole inhabitant of which was an
old witch named Beamon. She kept a candle burning every
night, and so malignantly fatal was its influence, that who-
ever saw it became a corpse before morning! Even to this
day, many of the more superstitious of the peasantry, when
they pass it, avert their eyes from the rock, lest the glare of
the candle may fall upon them, and convey to them the fear-
ful assurance of speedy dissolution. An intelligent cottager,
however, who resides on the side of a road leading to the
castle, and who guides strangers to the ruins, relates a
tradition, which, it general credited, would appease all ap-
prehension of the further power of the hag to cut short the
earthly span of the lated wayfarer. He states that St.
Patrick once got benighted in Cratloe, and knocking at an
old woman's door, sought shelter as a poor traveller. She
said she would give him a kindly welcome but for dread of
Beamon's candle. The saint upon this looked towards the
rock, and, " by the power of his holiness," extinguished the
candle, and with it the interwoven vital spark of the necro-
mancer; and then took possession of the rock and turned it
into a monastry, "or something of the kind," saying, that
while Ireland was green it shoul retain the name of " The
Rock of the Candle," so that future ages might know what
power was given to him to extinguish the false light of witch-
craft ! Of the castle, portions of several towers and walls,
covering a large area, still remain, and a fine ash tree grows
within them. It is said to have been built by the famous
O'Brien, and after having been frequently lost and won in
the contests with the Earls of Desmond, was the seat of a
branch of the former family in 1530. It became a ruin only
so recently as 1689. During the siege of Limerick it was
surrendered without a struggle, by the adherents of James
11., rather (according to Dean Story) from want of in-
structions than means or courage to defend it. The same
historian, it appears, was appointed to destroy it, together
with Castle Connell, and received £l6O for the purchase of
gunpowder to blow both fortresses up. " The effects of the
explosion, (says Mrs. Hall—to whose recent and clever work
on Ireland I refer for some traditional lore respecting the
castle,) are still sufficiently obvious ; for huge masses of
broken walls are scattered about in picturesque confusion ;
although one or two of the towers still endure in a state of
tolerable preservation."
I learned from Captain Kennedy that the peasantry in the
neighbourhood of the castle have still an idea that a vast sum
in money and valuables is buried somewhere amongst the
ruins, and that many of them have gone, from time to time—
always by night—with spades and picks, and dug till morning
in hopes of " treasure trove" ; but, it need scarcely be added,
without success.
Proceeding down the river, on which there are various
seats, the voyager passes a group of rocks, invisible when the
tide is up, called " the Scarlets . These are nearly in the
middle of the stream, and are marked by a plain but pic-
turesque-looking round tower rising from the water. A mile
or two further on, lies Grass Island, so named from its ver-
dure, also in the middle of the river. The island is uninha-
bited, and forms a sort of landmark to the navigators of the
Lower Shannon ; and it is a somewhat remarkable coinci-
dence that the principal places and stations called at by the
steamers, or referred to by those who navigate them in com-
mon parlance, with reference to distance between Limerick
and Kilrush, all chance to be equidistant, namely :
From Limerick to Grass Island is about 9 Irish miles
Grass Island to Begh Castle
Begh Castle to Foynes Island
Foynes Island to Tarbert
Tarbert to Kilrush

RIVER SHANNON

LIMERICK TO KILRUSII, C

(Our next notice will conclude these sketches.)

THE NIURIJER IN EASTCHEAP

CAPTURE AND EXAMINATION OF THE MURDERER OF

To the south of Grass Island is the mouth of the Maigue
river, navigable for small craft up to the interesting town of
Adair, celebrated for its fine monastic ruins—a distance of
seven miles. Directly on the opposite (or Clare) side of the
Shannon is another of its tributories, the Ougarnee or Oil
Mill river. Westward of the latter, in a densely wooded
bottom, stand the ruins of Bunratty Castle, the largest and
most compact and perfect pile in this part of the country. It
forms a square, enclosing a court, after the fashion of the
feudal times, with four projecting square towers,—one at
each corner. The walls are high, 'and apparently in a fine
state of preservation. An arch runs through the south front
into the court, and over it the wall is indented to nearly its
extreme elevation, terminating in another blank archway,
and giving it the appearance of a very lofty entrance or gate-
way. Peering darkly over the dense and stately trees that
surround it, this castle conveys no inadequate an idea of
a boronial residence in the olden time. A little to the west
of it is Bunratty House, on a richly wooded eminence.
There are several small islands a short distance further
down, amongst which may be noticed Sod Island, and a
smaller islet, called Battle Island, of about two acres in ex-
tent, on which it is said the last of the " Danes," or rather
Anglo-Normans took shelter when defeated by the Irish.
Hence, too, may be seen Clonmoney Hill, rising from the
water, and topped by a small cairn or pyramid. It is re-
markable as being covered with verdure, of a yellowish pea-
green hue, which it retains all the year round. On the south
bank, a little further below, is Shannon Grove, a fine do-
main, and, beyond it, Castletowu, another seat on a hill,
both surrounded by beautifully variegated scenery in woods,
lawns, and plantations. The river is here about five miles in
breadth. The attention of tourists will also be directed to
Bushy Island, on the same side, which is a splendid and ap-
propriately named little gem, covered with foliage from the
water's edge to its summit. Near it (also on the Limerick
side) is the handsome house of Dr. Peppard—a private
lunatic asylum—finely situated on a peninsula. The river
here averages about four miles broad, and becomes more
expansive as the traveller proceeds, combining all that
is beautiful and varied in river and landscape scenery, super-
added to a generally, and peculiarly clear, and exliilerating
atmosphere. As we passed swiftly along, our regret in being
unable to catch all the beauties of one enchanting view, were
dispelled by the attractions of the next, and each in suc-
cession gave rise amongst the groups of passengers to a re-
ciprocal interchange of historical or traditional information
and anecdote connected with the more prominent objects of
antiquity.
.The wheels of the chatting department in the
human machine were. also lubricated by an excellent breakfast
in the saloon, served in good style by my old friend "William"
the steward. The view, as we steamed along, was deversified
by numerous vessels, including several fine large schooners,
making their way towards the city.
In an hour and ten-minutes, we were off Begh Castle, a
remarkable ruin on a point on the Limerick shore, a distance
from the town of 18 Irish miles. On the opposite side is
liinana Point, the eastern boundary of the mouth, or rather
estuary of the river Fergus, the islands in which form, it may
be said, a beautiful small archipelago. The Furgus is navigable
to Clare, the county town, and might easily be made so to
Ennis, two miles further, a town of much more importance,
and to which the metropolitan franchise of the county ought
to be transferred.
The remains of Begh Castle consists almost solely of the
delapidated, and ivy-clad walls of a square tower, close to
the river. In front is a small pier for boats, and behind it
are a few small houses, forming a little hamlet. The fields
in the immediate neighbourhood appear to be cultivated with
considerable care, but even here, and indeed, in large tracts
throughout these whole districts, though more particularly on
the Clare side of the river, may he seen, scattered up and
down in the back ground, those miserable clay built hovels,
yelped" cabins," that disfigure the Irish landscape by im-
parting a lamentable assurance of the destitution of domestic
localities,comfort am
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yt hien
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possessing peasantry,a
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ihnagt , too,
fertility
and natural richness of soil.
Below Begh Castle, the land on the Limerick side forms a
bay studded with islands. Here the river Deel discharges