The Liverpool Standard and General Commercial Advertiser.
Liverpool, Merseyside, England, 1840-07-21 00:00:00

THE TRIP

The directors had invited a number of gentlemen to accom-
pany the ship on the trip to Cork on Wednesday last, and many
of these went on board the night previous to starting, every
accommodation havingbeen provided for them on a most stu-
pendous scale. She was moored in the Sloyne, and a steam-
boat was in waiting to take them on board, leaving it to their
own option to embark in the evening or on the following
morning. I preferred the latter, and on getting on board
found a goodly company seated at a sumptuous breakfast in
the saloon, of which all partook.
At ten minutes to eleven the anchor was weighed. The
beautiful iron steam-ship the Phlegethon, built by Mr. Laird,
accompanied us part of the way down the river. We passed
several vessels outward bound, and amongst them the ship
Argyle—her decks crowded with emigrants—men, women,
and children, about to sail for Sydney. Mr. Stubb's excellent
band was on board, and played appropriate airs.
At starting the speed of the engine was 12 strokes per
minute. Precisely at two minutes before eleven o'clock we
we were abreast of St. Nicholas's Church, which might be
considered our starting point. Numbers of persons were on
the quays, watching our progress, but they were too far dis-
tant to cheer us. A large concourse on the deck of the
Floating Bath, however, gave us several hearty huzzas, which
were as cordially returned. The day was fine, but rather in-
clined to cloudy, with a breeze from the westward. We
passed the battery at 25 minutes past eleven o'clock. We
thence saw a brig on shore near Formby Point, and the life-
boat going alongside of her. When we reached the Formby
light-ship, two handsome brigs were standing down the chan-
nel, nearly parallel with us, and being under a press of can-
vas, they formed agreeable objects until we passed them. At
a quarter to twelve o'clock we got close to the Victoria Chan-
nel light-ship, a distance, in about one hour and five minutes,
of ten miles from the Clarence Dock. About half-past
twelve Liverpool began to sink rapidly in the southern hori-
zon, and little was visible but her towers, spires, and masts.
The sea was enlivened by vessel% steering in various direc-
tions. At 20 minutes past twelve we had accomplished nearly
14 miles. The great height of our vessel's decks from the
water's edge, enabled the passengers to obtain extensive
views of sea and land.
Soon afterwards " all hands" were summoned below to
lunch, by sound of trumpet, from one of Mr. Stubbs's ex-
cellent band. The breeze freshened in the afternoon, and
there was a considerable roll of a sea. A large number of
vessels were running up the Horse Channel. We soon passed
the estuary of the Dee and the Vale of Clwyd, and about
three o'clock rapidly neared the Ormsheads. A considerable
additional sea-way was here experienced; but the ship rode
gallantly over it, without taking in a drop 'of water. At
twenty minutes to four we were off the Great Ormsheads,
the ship then running seven knots, with a strong head breeze
and a crested sea. The Snowdonian range of mountains
were now in view, with Penman Mawr in front. The engine
now made thirty-seven revolutions in three minutes.
At half-past five we were off Point Lynas. Here there is
an iron bound shore, not unlike that of the Isle of Man—
the waves fretting and foaming amongst the grey rocks below.
A little in the interior, and on the heights, there are green
enclosures, houses, and cottages, with a considerable sprin-
kling of vegetation on the hill tops. The shore then becomes
so bold that we sailed within a quarter of a mile of it, passing
between the main shore and a small rocky island called the
Middle Mouse.
When off Holyhead the guests were summoned to dinner,
and partook of a most sumptuous entertainment, consisting
of all descriptions of substantials and delicacies, with abun-
dance of champagne, claret, Madeira, choice fruits, confec-
tionary, &c.
I had now leisure to survey the guests, and noticed
amongt them the following gentlemen :—Sir J. 'robin, Mr.
Mr. Ashton Case, Colonel Aspinwall of the United States
Service ; H. Littledale, Esq. ; Bainbridge, Esq., Chair-
man of the Directors of the Company owning the ship ;
Maddock, Esq., Enderby, Esq. ; Capt. Peake, R.N. ;
Isaacs, Esq. ; Capt. Read ; Moyses, Esq. ; M`Gregor
Laird, Esq. ; Joseph C. Ewart, Esq. ; Horrocks, Esq. ;
fifty essop, Esq., and others to the number of forty-eight to
. _

I may here also furnish the names of the officers, than
whom a finer, more polite, or more talented fraternity never
trod the deck of a vessel. The ship is commanded by Cap-
tain Fayrer, R.N., a gentleman well known to the Liverpool
public, and of much experience in ocean steam navigation.
The other chief officers—and I place them in the order of
their rank—are Mr. Kean, who brought the' ship from Lon-
don, Mr. Duncan, (previously of the Liverpool,) and Mr.
Little. These all pull together, and consequently every
thing goes, on smoothly and without the slightest bustle or
confusion.

On the cloth being drawn, Captain Fayrer, who presided,
proposed "'!he Queen," a toast which was given with three
times three and followed up by the band playing the " National
Anthem." The dessert was splendid; and the toast and sen-
timent went round. One of the directors of the company
and M'Gregor Laird, Esq., (another,) also headed a table
each. The toasts were successively given, with the honours,
of " Success to the Oriental" and " the President of the
United States." Tune--Yankee Doodle." Colonel Aspin-
wall, a veteran, of the United States Service, who has lost
his left arm, returned thanks for the last in feeling and
appropriate terms.
Sir John Tobin, in a very complimentary address, proposed
the health of " Captain Fayrer," coupled with " Success to
the President."
Capt. Fayrer returned thanks. He said he felt honoured by
the notice, and more particularly from the quarter from which
it proceeded. He concluded by proposing the health ot'their
good friend " Mr. Ewalt." Three times three,—the band
playing—" He's a jolly good fellow."
Amongst the other toasts were "The health of Colonel
Aspinwall." In returning thanks he paid high compliments to
the English, amongst whom, he said, he had passed some of
the happiest days of his life.
We were now close by Holyhead bay—where the land is
bold and picturesque, forming a cape or head-land, near
which is the Stack, on which stands the light-house. The
light was already burning brilliantly.
At a quarter to ten o'clock we hailed the ship Catherine
Jackson, inward bound, and which would no doubt report us
at Liverpool •, she seemed to mistake 'oui'destination—taking
it for New York in place of Cork. Our next refreshment
was tea and coffee, admirably served by Mr. Hemans and as-
sistants.

-----
After this we lost sight of land, and the guests enjoyed
themselves ad libitum—some walking the decks ; some
smoking cigars ; some chatting, and others betaking them-
selves to their dormitories. For myself, I was so much
entertained by the stories told by Captain Fayrer, and a few
others who remained on the watch, that I did not retire un-
til past midnight, and then with my sides aching with laugh-
ter. We in fact amused each other by " spinning yarns."
The vessel meantime rolled gallantly onward though there
was a strong head wind and a rather heavy sea. In order to
give the Irish land a good wide berth, we steered rather more
to the southward than we should have done had it been day-
light; and in the morning had in consequence to bear up so
as to make the south-east part of the island. This was,
however, a proper precaution with so large a ship on a coast
which is beset with shoals and difficulties. _

.... -
About eleven o'clock in the forenoon we saw land on the
starboard bow, which turned out to be one of the Saltee
Islands. The wind was fresh from S.S.W. We had then
been about 24 hours out of port. The ship made good way,
giving about an average of 9/ knots. We now saw the high
land of Dungarvon, and the afternoon was employed in run-
ning down the coast. The sea had here a very black appear-
ance : it looked indeed like " the Black Sea;" probably fi om
the clouds or the colour of the bottom, or both combined.
We passed Drumore Bay, at the southwest entrance to which
there are three conspicuous towers. It was here remarked,
that " the Great Western" might be seen ahead—that was
the Great Western " Ocean." We passed a Liverpool ship,
outward bound, No. 425.
After dinner this day a joke was passed off by one of the
passengers, at the suggestion of another. Mr. Stubbs, Inas-.
ter of the band, when we were nearly off Ballycotton Island,
was commissioned to make his appearance in the saloon as a
newsman, with his horn, bringing a second edition of a Cork
newspaper, written on a sheet of paper. He announced that
he had just arrived alongside, and having delivered his paper
to Captain Fayrer, it was read to the following effect, and
was productive of some amusement, though penned in a few
minutes :

" CORK SOUTHERN REPORTER OFFICE,
" Six o'clock, p.m. Thursday, July 16, 1840.
" SECOND EDITION !
" We stop the press to announce to our readers, that the
steam-ship President, from Liverpool is now off this port.
She is the largest steam-ship in the world, and appears to be
a most noble vessel. Through our editorial telescope we can
perceive that though some of the passengers feign to be ill, it
is nothing but sham pain. Every one has been pleased with
the captain. No gentleman indeed could conduct himself in
a fairer manner. Mr. Keen, also looks sharp, and Mr. Little
is a great man amongst the company. Many of the gentle-
men on board disappeared below yesterday, and as was sup-

posed had gone to Davy Jones's Locker; (query—Mr. He-
man's ?—Printer's Devil ;) but a general resurrection took
place this afternoon, and they seem to be all busy now biking
views of our town, that is, drawing Cork, and they have all
become nautical, their cry ever and and anon being port
port ! more (a) port
" We shall publish full particulars in our Third Edition."

Ballycotton Island was now at hand. It is a very pic-
turesque rock, with caves and precipices at its base, and a
sprinkling of vegetation on its acclivities. It lies at the
entrance of Ballycotton Bay, and we could see close to it,
several small row boats, though the sea was breaking in white
foam over the rocks. The coast beyond it, towards Cork, is
beautiful and bold, with corn fields and pastures. Further
onward the shore is still steeper at its margin, with clefts,
ravines, and caves amongst the rocks, and green fields above.
The roads winding in tortuous directions from the coast up
the hills, to farm-houses and hamlets, are also conspicuous.
On a beautiful and abrupt head land, were a number of the
" natives," who ran up the hill to the verge of a precipice to
watch the passing of the ship, which they doubtless regarded
as a huge leviathan. The sea birds, on circling wing, were
noisy among the rocks below. We were now nearing Cork,
and the engine was making thirteen revolutions in a minute,
the ship running about nine and'a quarter knots.

COVE, PASSAGE, &c.
Your readers who have not seen the • Cove of Cork, and,
indeed, the scenery all round in going up to the harbour, can
form but an imperfect idea of its beauty from the short and
inadequate account which I can here furnish. On either
side of this land-locked estuary there are romantic islands
and head-lands, and hills topped by forts, and other places of
strength. Two of the outer islands are called the Cow and
Calf, on the starboard side ; and here we fired a salute at
about Bh. sm. p.m., having then steamed from Liverpool,
275 to 280 miles. We had thus accomplished the voyage in
about thirty-three hours, or about 81 miles an hour through-
out, which, considering that the engines are as yet stiff, and
that the wind was strong and unfavourable, may be said to be
excellent going. It is probable too, that from two to three
hours were lost by steering so far to the southward in the
night, a precaution, however, which, as before stated, was
necessary under the circumstances.
The forts on each side of the estuary, at its entrance, are
called respectively Cambden and Carlisle forts. The scenery
that opens out upon the'speotator sailing up is peculiarly Va-
ried and striking. It combines the united charms of lake
and land, villages, • towns, country seats, embosomed
amongst woods, and nested on the hills ; old castles, &c.,
thickly gemming a beautifully undulated country, rich with
fertile fields and lofty woods. In about half an hour from
entering from the open sea we reached Cove, a beautiful
town, built on the face of a hill, with churches and pub-
lic buildings of white stone, and cottages to the water's edge.
On the right, in running up, we saw a charming village or
bathing place, in a romantic bay, and the houses, as white as
snow, reflected on the waters. On the left, rising out of the
sea, the government store-houses, large fine buildings,
on an island. We dashed up close to the town of Cove, and
let go our anchor. The inhabitants were seen running to
the lower streets and esplanades, to look at our big ship ; and
an American brig, close to the shore, and a cutter, fired a
salute. We speedily- returned the compliment, and the
sound reverberated amongst the hills: Having immediately
afterwards learned that some gentlemen at Passage, a place
further up the river, had prepared to give the directors a
welcome reception, we again weighed -anchor in smart style,
and setting the engines a-going, proceeded onward, in a tor-
tuous direction, through a narrower channel, with forts,
islands, and a beautiful wooded shore on each side.

It was now becoming dusk, but after the view of the wide
sea we had had through the day, nothing could be more de-
lightful or refreshing to the senses than was the panorama
formed by the beautiful hills, seats, and marine villas that
everywhere met the eye from this spot. We made a sharp
turn to the right in going up, and rapidly neared Passage.
Here the width of the channel, from shore to shore, does
not, I should think, exceed a quarter of a mile ; and it must
have been a magnificent sight for those on the shore to see
so large a ship rushing up at full speed, like a floating island,
so close to the land. Passage lies on the west side, and is a
small but bustling place, with a custom-house, inns, &c.
There are smart river steam-boats constantly plying on the
river, and calling here on their way backwards and forwards
between Cove and Cork. The villas, cottages, and other
dwellings on the wooded heights on each side are beautiful
and picturesque.
Passage is about five miles from Cork. We reached it at
five minutes before ten o'clock. Before we got to+ it, the
gentlemen who had resolved to welcome us began a sort of
fee de joie by sending up rockets and firing pieces of artillery.
The commander of one of the neighbouring forts being
known to some of the company to which the President be-
longs, had sent down four pieces of artillery and a sufficient
number-of men. They blazed away in fine style, and we re-
plied in a similar way. Our guns roused a hundred echoes
in the hills and valleys around us. We also sent up rocket
for rocket, and two lads were stationed aloft, one on each
topsail yard-arm with blue lights. The shore meantime re-
verberated with shouts of welcome and surprise; the even-
ing was beautifully placid, and all seemed to give a joyous
welcome to the " big ship." Numerous boats came along
side loaded with the curious ; and many of the gentlemen
went on shore, where a splendid supper was provided for
them. Some few also found their way to Cork, by cars over
land.

During the whole time the ship remained at Passage, she
was literally besieged by visiters, including all the nobility
and gentry of the country side. Better dressed or more re-
spectable individuals as a mass, no part of the kingdom could
produce, and the greatest good humour and harmony pre-
vailed throughout. Mr. Stubbs's band, dressed in uniform,
began to play choice selections at an early hour on the morn-
ing after our arrival, and continued to give occasional enliven-
ment to the gala during the stay of the ship. A temperance
band from Cork was also on board of a vessel moored close
to the quay as a landing stage. A fine ship, the Osceola, lay
near us. I should state by the way that our ship lay within
30 or 40 yards of the shore, a proof, as she draws upwards of
15 feet of water, of the excellence of this harbour, though
considerably in land.

While all this was going on, the gentlemen who remained
on board enjoyed their meals and intermediate refreshments,
which were served with scrupulous regularity. It would be
impossible to estimate the number of individuals who visited
the ship in the two days, while she lay at Passage, and amongst
whom a great proportion were elegantly dressed ladies. I
should be wanting in gallantry, and in justice, however, did I
not here add that a lovelier bevy of beauties never met the
eye of the enthusiast, or visited the dream of the poet. There
is something peculiarly attractive in Irish beauty, and without
flattery it might be said of many of the ladies who trod the
deck of the President, that "grace was in• all their steps,
heaven in their eyes; in every gesture dignity and love."
The number who visited the vessel on the two days do not
probably amount to fewer than six to seven thousand. Cork
indeed and its neighbourhood on this occasion poured ont
her " loveliest and her best." I need scarcely add that
Captain Fayrer and his officers had some work on their hands
to welcome such a company and show them the ship, her
cabins and -equipments. They were all unremtting in their
attentions, and the greatest good humour and urbanity pre-
vailed. Not the slightest accident occurred notwithstanding
the number of boats that swarmed alongside, all of them
anxious for precedence,—if I except a ludicrous upset of three
lads, who were rescued immediately.
On the morning after our arrival an excellent breakfast was
again partaken of by the gentlemen on board, amongst whom
was that veteran Sir J. Tobin, a deserved favourite on all
nautical occasions, and who always sticks to his ship. A
great number of our passenger guests now dispersed them-
selves in different directions, some visiting Cove and the
neighbouring country, but a greater number finding their
way to Cork, either by steam-boats or by cars. I preferred
the former mode, in order the better to view the scenery on
each side of the river, and I do not remember to have seen,
even in a southern or tropical climate, anything more beau-
tiful. The entrance, indeed, to Cork harbour is replete with
all that can enrich the landscape, in wood and water. The
estuary above Passage widens out like a lake, and then again
contracts towards the town. 1 embarked in a pretty green
painted steamer, " The Maid of Erin,"—for the Irish will
have everything green. The succession of views on either
side was beautiful. Some of the gentlemen's seats are built
in the Elizabethan style. There is great undulation and va-
riety in the land, which presents an agreeable and rich ad-
mixture of hills, woods, gardens, and lawns, with many large
mansions, fanciful villas, cottages, bathing retreats, and rustic
pleasure-houses. There are also some ruinated places of
strength and antiquity, including Monktown Castle, once a
fine structure, now suffered to fall into decay. Many seats
and cottages were pointed out to me ; but I have not time
to particularise. The lake part of the river is called Loch
Monghan. The channel thence narrows, and runs to the
westward, and the land becomes higher, covered with trees
to the top, and studded with beautiful mansions, terraces,
and cottages. On entering the narrow part towards Cork, a
handsome embattled fort, with towers, called Black Rock
Castle, stands on the south point, founded on a rock. Here
there is a telegraph, but the place is not garrisoned. Through-
out the whole distance numerous pretty sailing and row boats
are met with, many of them crowded with parties of plea-
sure. On the right, and on the face of a wooded hill, is
the seat of D. O'Callan, M.P. for the city of Cork.
We here met another steam-boat, the " Queen," com-
ing down, and crowded to excess, with passengers going
to pay a visit to another potentate, " The President." The
diversity of scenery is such, in approaching Cork, that any
attempt to describe it would only " bother" me and your
readers to boot. Let them only go there and see and they
will pardon the admiration I have expressed. We passed a
convent on the left, also a ruined castle, covered with ivy,
amidst fine groves of trees. Here is also the seat of Mr.
Morgan, the verdure round which is. rich and variegated.
On the right, nearer to Cork, are shipbuilding yards and
slips, and here some fine vessels are built. On approaching
nearer to the city, the Custom-house faces the voyager.—on
a neck or point, which divides the channel into two, the north
and south. We soon ran up past a quantity of shipping on
each side the walls that inclose the river, and here saw •' the
Ocean," (steamer,) which had come from Liverpool on the
previous morning in 36 hours—having missed the stormy
night we had enconntered. Here also was a large Bristol
steamer , " The Queen," and another that runs to Dublin
and Glasgow.

CORK

We are vow, Mr. Editor, in Cork, and as your readers
must generally have read of it, I shall he brief in noticing it.
Cork is the southern metropolis of Ireland, scarcely inferior
in wealth and population to Dublin, and withal a splendid
and thriving city. Many of the streets are wide and beau-
tiful, in the court part of the town, south of the river Lee,
on the banks of which it stands. The population is said to
be upwards of 80,000, and with the environs probably more.
There are good shops and " stores," several large public
buildings, and three or four good small stone bridges across
the Lee—the town being on both sides. The site of the
south side is nearly level ; that of the north or poorer part,
is on the face of an acclivity.

Several of our passenge-guests betook themselves to the
" Imperial," an excellent hotel near the Postoffice. I and
several others, after cursorily seeing the principal streets,
strolled up the hill, amongst the poorer inhabitants ; where,
however, is the great butter-market, a general market, and,
I must add, a rag-market. The peculiarity of Irish charac-
ter, and the diversity of their circumstances in life, is vividly
shown in Cork. Here are well-dressed ladies and gentlemen,
rolling in wealth ; there, the extremes of misery and destitu-
tion. Like everything Irish, there is even an inversion of
locality in the grades of society. The lower, or humbler
classes, inhabit the higher parts of the town, and the higher
the lower parts. Notwithstanding the elevation of the north
part, such is the want of proper sewerage, and the acemula-
tion of manure, &c., that the savour is anything but odorous.
Yet even here there are good dwelling-houses, and not a few
fine buildings, with, in the outskirts, tasty mansions and
cottages. It is scarcely possible to conceive a stranger ad-
mixture. Many of the women go barefooted—a fashion pe-
culiar also to Scotland. I walked a considerable length of
grothatund (siiiie, butcompT with an intelligent friend from the ship)
onmistaking our way we did not obtain so good
a view of the main part of the city, which lies in a valley, as
we anticipated. In the evening I fiound a new road, whence
the view was most magnificent, but as darkness set in, I re-
turned to the city, and " took mine ease at my inn."
BLARNEY CASTLE.

Having heard of ilarney Castle, I rose at five o'clock next
morning, and walked out to that celebrated ruin. I was told
that the journey was but four miles, but I found it at least
six English miles.
The first part of the road was through a long straggling
succession of cottages on the north-west of the city, known
by the cognoman of " Blarney-lane." But I must be brief.
I turned at a little public-house to the right, called Blarney
Cross, with a vacant space in front, but no cross that I could
discover. From this road the valley of the Lee is open to
the view, with an extensive country to the south and west,
all cultivated in cord fields and pastures, &c., enclosed with
but few trees,—in the Scottish style. A smart walk brought
me to Blarney village, before reaching which, the traveller
will see Blarney Castle—all that is thence visible of it through

high trees being a large square lofty stone tower embattled at
the top, but grey with moss, and partly delapidated. It is
situated on the margin of a pleasing valley, and is surrounded
by rich lands, with chimps of trees. I had to walk across a
lawn, on the south of it, to tind the female who keeps the
keys, and she accompanied me back, and took me to the

" kissing stone," a chip or two of which I contrived to brim•
with me. The old lady seeing me a little shy insisted upon
my kissing the stone, (or rather stones—for it has got broken
in two), which I did with all due respect, so that you need
not be surprized should I tip you a little of the blarney.

The castle has doubtless been once a splendid place: The
ascent to the top is by spiral stone stairs, of 218 steps, and
the " kissing stone' is on the top of the north-east
corner of the town. The walls are thick, and have
enclosed some large apartments, but the roof and floors have
been suffered to go to decay. Adjoining, on the lower part,
on the east, are the remains of a portion of the castle, of a
more modern date, with towers and numerous windows; but
this, too, has, comparatively of late years been abandoned to
the weather. A brook. or small river, winds under the castle,
on the north side, and below are a dungeon and a cave on the
rocky foundation. The view from the top of the hamlet and
church of Clarney, and the adjacent country, is very delight-
ful. On the demesne of the castle 600 head of cattle are fed.
I found my way back to Cork by a route rather less tor-
tuous, and soon afterwards proceeded down to passage to join
the ship. My Blarney journey, and a short delay in Cork,
had nearly lost me my passage ; I was, indeed, all but left
behind.