The Liverpool Standard and General Commercial Advertiser.
Liverpool, Merseyside, England, 1838-07-10 00:00:00

No. N.

Having recruited ourselves at Beddgelert, after our fatigues
from the ascent of Snowdon, we pursued our route to Capel
Curig, a small village about twelve miles off, on the road to
Conway, a here we intended to pass the night. We had
scarcely proceeded a mile on our way, when we were met by
a car, containing one of the ladies whose acquaintance we had
made on the top of Snowdon, and a part of her party, who
were coming rt urn Llanberris where they had returned, to •
join the remainder of their friends, who had come along with
us to Beddgelert over the mountain. It may be supposed
that, though but short acquaintances, we most cordially
greeted each other; and, after many good wishes, we pursued
our separate ways. We were new entering the valley of
Nant Gwynedd, (the vale of the stream,) by reputation the
most beautiful of the vales amoung the mountains. It was
about five o'clock in the evening when we started. The air
was cool and refreshing, but the clouds were heavy, and in
that mountainous district foretold rain. We entered into the
valley by a narrow yet good road. The features which here
presented themselves were totally different from any vale
scenery I have elsewhere beheld. There was scarcely any
expansion of view, the valley lying between bold, craggy,
mountainous precipices of red sandstone and slate, occasion-
ally mingled with limestone, which passed into marble and
quartz, and the base of the hills being so close together
that there was little more than room for the road and
a small stream which gurgled along between them. About
a mile and a half from the village of Beddgelert we
passed a mound-like rock of great height, which rose from
a level plain unattached to any hill, to the very summit of
which, out of the crevices of the rock and on the occasional
levels, stunted oaks and the larch were growing in profusion,
giving it a highly picturesque and beautiful appearance.
We ventured various conjectures as to the fortune a man
might make out of this bill, if placed at a convenient distance
from Liverpool, as a sort of opposition to the Zoological gar-
dens. 'this rock is named Ddinas Emrys, where Vortigern
retired to in the year 465, when unable longer to contiol the
Saxons. There is the remains of a tort on a level flat at the
top. Our attention was here attracted to several of the stones
of which the wall was built, which bounded the road, which
were a kind of mixture of quartz, alabaster, and white marble.
We broke one huge piece which formed a coping-stone to
the wall, into fragments, and selected several fine specimens
of spar, principally of quartz, with a stalueite appearance.
So plentiful was the marble rock, that we were perfectly as-
tonished to see the road here and there Macadamized with
broken marble. I picked up one piece of beautiful pure ala-
baster from amongst the stones repairing the road, which I
thought of sufficient value to weight my coat pocket with.
As we passed along through this narrow valley, the precipit-
ous red brown rocks on either side were occasionally wood-
clad to their summits, giving peculiar richness and beauty to
the bold scenery. The surcharged clouds too, skirting the
tops of the hills in our immediate neighbourhood, were fre-
quently brought down by their attraction, and as they passed
over, occasionally hid the summits of the hills from our view,
with a blue misty appearance, which added greatly to the sub-
lime and peculiar nature of the landscape. Here and there the
bases of the hills would recede from each other a few hundred
yards, leaving beautiful patches of meadow land, which were
crowded with browsing cattle, fullufcontent. About a mile fur-
ther we arrived at a large pool or lake called Lynn y Dinas,
which, opening on the view in the centre of one of the most
charming scenes that can be described. This pool i 3 about a
mile long and a quarter of a mile broad, and is at the bottom
of a kiud of oblong basin, formed by bleak and inaccessible
craggy hills on all sides. It is skirted on the left by the high
road. From the basis of the surrounding hills to the verge
of the lake are nerrow sloping pastures of the richest grass
land, the bright fresh green of which contrasts beautifully
with the frowning, bleak, barren hills above, and with the
sombre hue of the fir trees, with which some of the hills are
lined. As we proceeded along the road this view, like a
lovely miniature bay, burst upon us all at once, and excited
our rapturous admiration. At the furthest extremity of the
lake, on a plain of level, richly-wooded park land, stood a
substantial stone-built mansion, facing the water, with
avenues of fine trees up to it from the water's edge ; and
abruptly rising from the back of the mansion, so much so
that it appeared almost to be leaning against it, was a lofty
hill, every portion of which was thickly covered with wood.
A scene more beautiful can scarcely be conceived, or a site
more lovely for a residence. We learned that the mansion
is the seat and occasional residence of Lord Gullet. I re-
gretted that our time would not permit us to spend a day in
fishing in this retired and secluded sheet of water, that we
might inure leisurely have enjoyed the beauties around,

" Forgetting all the world ;
By all the world forgot."
As it was, we were obliged to content ourselves with sitting
on a piece of low rock which overhung the water, and enjoy-
ing the scene as long as time would permit us. Whilst here,
we were highly amused by an example of the mode in which
some tourists post-horse it through a country, the beauties
and characteristics of which they professedly go to acquaint
themselves with, but in reality to follow a beaten track and
visit two or three noted places, the sight of which constitutes
all the knowledge they have of the country through which
they travel. We had just regained the road and were pro-
ceeding on our way when we were passed by a travelling
plimton-sort of carriage, with a postillion driving. The car-
riage contained a party of five or six ladies and gentlemen,
inside and on the dicky. apparently English from their dress
and appearance. A lady and gentleman sat on the dicky,
and looked neither to the right nor the left as the vehicle
was rapidly driven through this beautiful scene. Inside the
open carriage were comfortably packed in the corners one or
two ladies and a gentleman—what think you reader?—
making the most of their eyes as they were driven through
one of the loveliest scenes in Wales ?—no such thing; they
were fast asleep ! When their tear should be completed,
they would be able to say of the general scenery of \Vales
about as much as the sailor when asked on his return from
Calcutta what sort of a place it was—that " there was prime
grog at the sign of the White Bear's Paw." We passed an,
leaving behind us this sequestered and lovely valley. We
tvere led into reflections as we passed it on the strange taste
which leads the owners of properties like these—who, possessed
of ample independencies, are little kings in their own neigh-
bourhoods when at home, and a real blessing to their pour
tenantry around when so, by the wealth they diffuse—to pre-
fer wasting their time and their health and all these blessings
in the crowded metropolis, where they are possessed of no
consequence, where no one either knows, thinks, or cares
about them, and where the only substitutes for this real, sub-
stantial peace and happiness are—nocturnal gambling, frivoli-
ty, and dissipation, followed by their long train of consequent
evils, mental upbraidings and self-dissatisfaction. i could
riot help thinking over the beautiful lines of Pope—
" Happy the man whose wish and care
A few paternal acres bound,
Content to breathe his native air
In his own ground."
If the public service demanded their absence from their do-
mains to take part in the " great councils of the nation.,"
their absence would, of course, be a necessary one and from
honourable motives ; but such is not the case with one in
twenty of our country aristocracy, who trifle away a useless
existence in the metropolis, on the paves of Regent-street
and Portland-place, and in the parks, by day, and in the
club-houses, the theatres, or Crocklard's at night. Along
the side of the road, a picturesque little trout stream ran
gurgling past, supplying the lake we had just left. The hills
again closed upon the road, and were thickly wooded with
stunted oak, birch, and tir. A sharp shower coining on, we
were glad to turn off and take refuge in a cottage on the hill
side, at a short distance from the road. We here found the
only dirty cottage we had seen in Wales. Thefloor consisted
of broken flag stories, which were made level with earth.
There was no ceiling, nothing but the roof. There was no
fire place, but a few embers were burning on the hearth, the
smoke from which made its way outof a hole in the roof, and
gave a dingy appearance to the whole of the interior. An
iron pot was stuck ou three legs over the embers, and a dirty
loakiuss young woman, the wile of the woodman who occupied
the cottage was nursing a child whilst sitting on her hams
by the fire, and at the same time greasing a pair of shoes with
het...fingers. The husband was a decent healthy looking, man,
who had been a gardener in Warwickshire, and spoke toter-
ably English ; he was getting his tea consisting of ,Cheshire
cheese, oaten cake, and thick buttermilk. He was very pres- •
sing that he should share his meal with him, and to avoid af-
fronting hint we told him we would take a bowl of buttermilk,
for which we insisted on paying him. lie told us lie liked
England much better than Wales; it was more comfortable
and not so poor. We soon found out, however, that the poor
fellow's dissatisfaction proceeded from his having the misfor-
tune to have a dirty idle woman for his wife, of which his
miserable dwelling gave many proofs. As we proceeded from
thence on our way we passed several beautifully situated
Summer residences amongst the hills, having fine views; and
excellent fishing in the lakes near to them. We were told by
a cottager that they were let for the Stormier at a very rea-
sonable rate. We were much struck as we journeyed along
by the general stupidity of the men whom we occasionally
met, on asking them the distance we were from Capel Curig,
or how far we were from Beddgelert. One roan told us we
were about four miles front Capel Curig, and after walking
about two miles further, another man informed us it was about
eight miles farther on. We had knowledge enough of the
country From our guide book map to know that both were in
error. We had the greatest difficulty to make most of the
men we met comprehend our meaning, their stock of English
words being very limited. When we had proceeded about a
mile further we arrived at a second lake, Llyn Cwynant,
which communicated by a small stream with the one we bad
passed. Its appearance however was totally different to that
of the other lake, steep and rugged declivities approaching
the very verge of it, wills scarcely any vegetation on them but
the mossy covering of the rocks. Bounding the left side of
the lake, and rising abruptly from its bosom, was one of the
hills of Snowdon, rising almost perpendicularly a height of at
least 500 yards, and the base of it not 300 yards from us. The
top of this fearful looking hill was covered with cloud which
kept driving down its sides and then clearing off. The whole
character of the scenery here was so bold and striking as to
astonish us. The road threaded through a successionof hills,
whose steepness and nearness to us. was different to anything
of the kind we had before seen. English hills almost invari-
ably partake of the character of long sloping ascents. Many
of these hills reminded us of the Tarpeian rock spoken of by
the Roman historians, from the summit of which a man might
be hurled to the bottom. Occasionally masses of cloud
would be driven against and impeded by one of' these moun-
tain sides, and becoming snore and more dense, would de-
scend in torrents of rain into the valley. At one time a range
of these hills had imposed a barrier, as it were, to the
further progress of the clouds, which became almost pitchy
black, and the rain fell in torrents, wetting us through, the
road led us to the other side of the hill, where it was quite
fine. Gradually the clouds surmounted the top, and came
rushing down the side of the hill, like thick columns of
smoke; and we prepared for another wetting. A sharp
breeze, however, springing up, the clouds were driven rapidly
off, and broken into fragments, the clear sky shining between.
As the clouds passed over the hills, casting over them their
dark shadows, an occasional gleam of sunshine would shine
through these breaks, and light up portions of the hills, giv-
ing an indescribable beauty to the sublime scenery. At
len^th, greatly fatigued and wet, we reached Capel Curig, a
small village: consisting only of an immense inn and the
habitations of its domestics, and famous for the inn, a chapel
dedicated to St. Curig, and a large lake. The inn is situ-
ated on a romantic and beautiful spot, at the foot of the lake ;
and at the other side is the mountain of Moel Siabod raising
its lofty head. We were surprised by the style of everything
in the inn. We were ushered with much state into the tra-
vellers' room, and passed, in an alcove close to the door,
an old Welsh harper, playing the favourite airs of his coun-
try for the entertainment of the guests. The room was fur-
nished more iu the style of a gentleman's drawing-room than
the travellers' room of an inn; the carpet, sideboard, mir-
rors, window-hangings, and furniture being of the hand-
somest description. We had most excellent coffee and eggs,
which were served with a profusion of massive plata. \Ve
faunal__ ited,rooms _fitted up with equal magnificence.
Next morning we started early to walk to Conw.iy. -It was
as dreary a prospect for us as could be well imagined, rain-
ing continually in torrents, and was a most disheartening
beginning of the twenty miles. We, however, so far carried
out our determination to let neither distance, difficulties, nor

weather daunt us in our pedestrian peregrinations, as to make
a start. We had not gone a mile, however, before we were
glad to take shelter in a cow-keeper's shippen, where we
bought as much new milk of the Welshman who was attend-
ing the cows, as we could drink. The walk from Capel
Curig to Bettws y Coed, the next.village, is one most roman-
tically beautiful. The country, while it retains much of its
bold hilly character, becomes more fertile, and the hills to
their very summits are wood-clad. Along the side of the
road, a small river, the Lugwy (swift river) dashes along
through deep ravines, making numerous waterfalls, and af-
fording infinite scope for the pencil of the landscape painter.
About half way to Bettws y Coed, the river, jutting through
a cleft rock down a precipice, forms a very beautiful water-
fall, called Rhaiadr y Wenol (the Cataract of the Swallow).
In order to see this, a pathway is formed from the road.