The Liverpool Standard and General Commercial Advertiser.
Liverpool, Merseyside, England, 1853-04-12 00:00:00

STANDARD, TUESDAY,

PARIS FASHIONS FOR APRIL.

(FRONI THE COURT JOURNAL.)

Longchamps is over. The seal of Longchamps is set
upon our fashions for the rest of the year, and against
the fiat no appeal is now possible. 'Much had been done
to render it more brilliant this year than it has been since
the Revolution of 1848; and as far as the number of
carriages was concerned, and the congregation of people
assembled, success did certainly attend the effort ; but
the uncongenial weather rendered such efforts useless for
the follower of fashion, whose curiosity was the first day
entirely defeated by the closed carriages and many
wrappers with which the fair forms of the ladies were
concealed. The second day was somewhat more pro-
mising, while the third was all that could be wished to
favour the display of spring toilets, which abounded in
all their freshness and glory.
The great novelty in silk dresses seemed to be the robe
Cleopatre, perhaps the most elegant design which has
appeared in our day. It is perfectly distingue, while
producing the most striking effect. There were several
dresses of divers colours. The Duchess de Beauffremont
was attired in a robe Cleopatre of pale lilac, the broad
stripes, three in number, which ornamented the bottom
of the skirt, of three shades darker than the dress, were
divided by rows of narrow dark green velvet, which,
lying upon the interval of lighter shade, had a most
charming effect. The Princess of Hohenlohe wore one
of these robes Cleopatre, of rose-coloured taffetas, with
rows of black velvet upon the lighter stripe ; and Madame
Lehon a dress of the same fashion, Pomona green, with
black velvet also. Flounces seemed to be much out of
favour, and in general the showy, stylish, though some-
what theatrical Spanish style of costume, seems destined
to become general for the ensuing year. Thus, but few
dresses are made with bodies of the same material.
Jackets of fine black cashmere, bordered with Wallachian
trimming, or of velours mousseline, edged with fine jet
passementerie, are universally worn. and considered
exceedingly becoming. These jackets fit close to the
figure, have merely the basques below the waist. These
basques are edged with fringe, which falls over the hips,
and diminishes marvellously the size of the waist. Some,
indeed, may be considered mere bodies, reaching only to
the waist, and edged with lace so broad that the effect is
that of a double petticoat of rich lace falling over the
skirt of the dress. When this bodice is worn, however,
the skirt is invariably of the stoutest quality of damask,
very full and long, with a slight train behind. So great
is the sudden adoption of ornamental skirts for promenade
and carriage wear, that several dresses, even of plain
silk, were beheld at Lonchamps, with many rows of fine
jet braid, diminishing gradually in width as they ascended
towards the waist. The effect of this trimming is strik-
ingly original and peculiar. Madame Lehon's dust.
coloured silk thus trimmed, with the jacket of black
moire richly decorated with braid and jet, was greatly
admired. The bonnets were all made to wear very low
behind. Several were seen with a wreath of roses or
marguerites encircling the crown, and supported by full
bunches of velvet ribbon, with long floating ends on
either side. Beneath the brim is laid a quilling of blond.
above which a delicate wreath of roses pompons is placed
to lie across the forehead. Gold and silver flowers in
transparent capotes, both black and white, are likewise
much worn, in spite of the opposition which the fashion
has met with on the part of every milliner of taste. The
most remarkable costume of all those displayed at Long-
champs consisted of a dress of delicate jaune paille Glace
silk, richly ornamented with seven rows of embroidery
ha the finest coral. The jacket of the same embroidered
to correspond, and the basques finished by coral fringe,
about three inches in depth. A mante al' Armenienne
of black velvet thrown back to display the embroidery of
the dress, a bonnet of fancy straw, lined and trimmed
with violet-coloured velvet, with bunches of sea-weed
advancing very forward on the passe, composed the most
striking features of this elegant costume, and attracted
much observation. Feathers are but little worn in
bonnets, flowers of the richest hue and texture have
successfully replaced them for the moment. A few
attempts to revive the ostrich feather trimmings, in vogue
some thirty years ago, were attended, however, with
success. These trimmings, used as borders to cloaks
and mantles, have been in some little favour amongst the
opulent ladies of the Chaussee d'Antin.
The novelty in gloves consists in their being made
gauntlet fashion, and decorated with long tassels at the
wrist. Buttons of precious stones, even brilliants, are
used to close the opening of the glove, which, according
to the new fashion, is turned outside. Bows of ribbon,
so much the fashion last month, are completely exploded,
and replaced by agraffes of jewellery, worn even in pro-
menade costume. This fashion, which would have
shocked us some few years ago, appears natural enough
now that gold and silver are no longer compelled to seek
the glare of the ball room to excuse their brilliancy, but
display themselves on bonnets and dresses even in the
broad light of day. Ball dresses have undergone but little
change since our last. The time of Lent is unfavourable
to change. The calotles of flowers are still worn with
great success, and the papillon of net, covered with
daisies and violets, worn by the Empress at the last ball
of the Tuileries, promises to become generally adopted.
Satin dresses, entirely covered with Guipure lace, and
ornamented with garlands of white roses, have been the
rage for young married ladies, while mousseline de soie of
every nuance is the sole article in vogue for the ball dress
of young ladies.

THE FASHIONS FOR GENTLEMEN
Are remarkable for the same luxury of ornament as
that which distinguishes those for the softer sex, the
cloaks and Talmas being most trimmed with rows of
velvet laid on in an Etruscan pattern. Pantaloons very
tight to the knee, displaying the shape of the leg; and
full upon the hips, are much worn for riding. Hats
lower in the crown, and placed farther back upon the
head, are generally ornamented with a narrow band of
velvet and small silver buckle. Coloured gloves are sewn
and embroidered in white silk. Silk stocks of large
pattern, with a small bow in front, have replaced the
various inventions of cravats which have been the mode
for some time past. Embroidered shirts are much worn,
the embroidery of the kind called felaqui, the cambric
laid double in a single pattern between ; the plaits of the
bosom are in general fewer. The studs worn with these
are of coloured enamel, to correspond with the pattern
of the embroidery. Watch ribbons, narrow and of bright
colour, have been revived ; each ribbon holds its breloque,
and we have seen as many as five of these hanging from
below the waistcoat of one of our most fashionable
exquisites. The spring waistcoats are all of a light and
silky material. A bird's eye pattern of sparkling gold
colour, on a purple ground, has been much in vogue.
Canes for the promenade are carried a la Lauzun, thick
and long, with a heavy gold knob at the top, and two
tassels of coloured braid just beneath. Boots ala Tolede,
of varnished leather, are made with heels of unusual
height. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Shoes are worn with large flat bows of ribbon on the
instep, and sometimes black or white lace is introduced ;
bugles, too, are not despised, for the ornamenting of
satin boots, and produce a pretty effect when correspondent
with the rest of the costume. Sleeves must be opened
on the outside, and fastened with a broad bow at the
wrist, instead of inside as before. Dresses made entablie
must be opened down each side, and the cambric petticoat,
with its broderie Anglaise, be visible through the opening.
All letters and invitations must be written on nankeen
coloured paper, and cards no longer turned down at the
corner, but folded in half when the friend you call upon
is from home. Pocket handkerchiefs embroidered in
coloured thread and beads are carried to balls for the sake
of the cotillon, wherein the pocket handkerchief plays so
conspicuous a part. Silk stockings, also embroidered in
beads, are worn with coloured crape dresses.

MUSIC AND THE DRAMA.

THE ROYAL AMPHITHEATRE.—For the first time in
England since the memorable achievement of Mr. W. C.
Macready, Henry V has been put upon the stage on a
scale of great magnificence, for which the play affords
abundant scope. During the past week it has been per-
formed nightly to large and admiring audiences. Mr.
George Vandenhoff, as the royal conqueror of Agincourt,
is evidently much appreciated, although we think his
delineation somewhat imperfect. His courtship with the
French princess, so much relished by the " gods," is a
misconception, and there is throughout a want of consist-
ency in the portraiture of the brave and generous monarch.
Mr. Vandenhoff was well supported by the whole of the
local talent, though the play developes little pristine
talent, partaking largely of the character of the spectacle.
That the play will have a long and successful run we doubt
not; Mr. Copeland's spirited exertions are well entitled
to receive the patronage of the play-going public.
PHILHARMONIC SOCIETY.—The second subscription
concert was given on Tuesday evening. The principal
vocalists were Mrs. Endersohn, Miss Williams, Mr.
Lockey, and Mr. Weiss. Spohr's " Last Judgment"
(presented for the first time in its entirety in Liverpool),
and Rossini's " Stabat Mater" formed the evening's pro-
gramme. The chorus also advances steadily ;it is be-
coming more accurate and compact, under the skilful
guidance of its drill-master.

THE LITERARY AND DRAMATIC SOCIETY will give
their annual dramatic representation at the Theatre
Royal, on the 25th instant, when the members will per-
form Sir E. Lytton Bulwer's comedy of Not So Bad As
We Seem. The society expect the valuable assistance of
their honorary member, Mr. Barry Sullivan. The pro-
ceeds will be devoted to the fund for the completion of
the new schools and almshouses of the Licensed Victual-
lers' Association.

GORDON CUMMING, the famous lion-hunter, is ex-
hibiting his collection in Glasgow.
THE BENEFIT OF COMMERCE.—We have much plea-
sure in directing the attention of our readers to the Glen-
field Patent Starch manufactured by Mr. Wotherspoon,
who, we understand, some time ago received a testimonial
from no less a personage than the laundress of the royal
household, and we believe that Mr. Wotherspoon is the
only person iu Scotland who has been so honoured. He
has lately made extensive additions to his premises, which
has enabled him to employ about 400 young andindus-
trious females, in a town where labour to that class of the
population has hitherto been scarce and unremunerative.
We hail this as a great acquisition to the town of Paisley,
near where the works are situate ; there are also a great
number of men employed, at good wages; this fact of itself
is of great importance, and we trust will have its full
weight of influence on the public mind. The recent
extensive enlargement of these works enables him to carry
out, on a large scale, the various improvements which his
experience in the manufacture of Starch has suggested for
the enhancement of that article. The last, but not the
least important of these, is a simple, but very efficient and
ingenious method of drying the Starch, which exerts con-
siderableinfluence in maintaining its purity and strength.
We have seen several testimonials from the principal
laundresses in this country, besides other competent
authorities, who have made a searching investigation of
the " Glenfield Patent Starch," and who all state that it
is an excellent article. To such testimonials no additional
recommendation is necessary to convince the ladies, mer-
chants, &c., &c., to be purchasers of the Glenfield Patent
Starch. It will be necessary, on purchasing it, to see that
the name, R. Wotherspoon, is on each packet (without
which none is genuine), as some disreputable makers
endeavour to foist on the public worthless articles, closely
resembling the Glenfield Patent Starch in outside appear-
ance. We understand it is sold by all the principal shop-
keepers in town, who deliver to all purchasers a list of the
testimonials we have here alluded to.

CORRESPONDENCE.

Letters addressed to the Editor should be accompanied by the
real name and address of the writer, not for publication, but
as a guarantee of good faith ; this is indispensably requisite

in any statement of facts.
The Editor wishes it to be understood that he does not hold
himself responsible for the opinions or statements of his

correspondents

STATE OF EASTHAM CHURCH.

To the EDITOR of the LIVERPOOL STANDARD,

SIR,-As you have allowed to appear in your columns some
remarks on the present state of Eastham Church, perhaps you
will have the goodness to grant a like publicity to the following.
Being interested in the subject of church accommodation,
and the regulation of public worship, I paid a visit to Eastham
Church, and made some inquiry into the disposition of the
parishioners towards these matters. I perceive the Church to
be in some respects such as your correspondent, "A Regular
Churchman," had described—damp, cold, open in the roof,
and much out of repair. I cannot speak particularly as to the
colours on the walls— " rust, must, and dust" may be their
appropriate names, as they are oalled by " A Regular Church.
man," who appears to know something of colouring; but the
interior arrangement of the Church is altogether opposed to
ecclesiastical taste—ill-adapted for uniform devotion,—which
matters appear to have had an injurious influence on at least
one member of the congregation. Not having seen the clerk,
I cannot judge of the arrangement of his hair—the subject of
your correspondent's solemn and seasonable contemplations;
but I have ascertained that Easthani Church is in the precise
state that the parishioners desire; for, at a vestry meeting
lately convened to consider the propriety of reparing the
Church, a large majority decided that a rate sufficient for that
purpose should not be levied.

Though not a parishioner of Eastham, yet knowing that talk
is cheap,l have ventured to tax your kindness to allow me, as
well as " A Regular Churchman," to do something for Eastham
Church.—l am, Sir, yours, &c., VIATOR.
Eastham, April 5, 1833.

LONG SERMONS AND BAD VENTILATION,

To the EDITOR of the LIVERPOOL STANDARD,

SIR,—You are doing great service to the public by admitting
into your columns remonstrances on the subject of long
sermons and badly-ventilated Churches. With regard to the
latter, it does not follow that because the effects are not imme-
diate, or inconveniently perceptible to the congregation, that
the air of a crowded Church is not foul. On the contrary,
some people can sit in a foul, obnoxious atmosphere, without
being at all sensible of it : and I could point out a Church or
two where the atmosphere soon becomes foul, especially in the
gallery, where there is not a crevice or a window open to allow
a change of air to take place. But a word or two upon long
sermons. Some people are apt to think that we can never
have too much of a good thing. This is a mistake: for too
much of a good thing satiates and in time disgusts. We
should, moreover, be governed by a consideration for the feel-
ings of others,—not always be guided by our own. The young,
the old, the delicate in health, cannot endure a long service—it
becomes irksome and unprofitable to them, and keeps many
persons away from Church who otherwise would attend regu-
larly. It would be far better if the Church services were re-
duced in length, and more services during the Sunday held in
each Church; and the additional services should be especially
devoted to the poor, who should be invited to attend, and then
it might he said " that the poor have the Gospel preached to
them." lam far from wishing to be thought ungrateful for
the indefatigable devotions of the clergy; I merely seek to
point out where much good might be effected, and some trifling
incongruities avoided.—Believe me to be, Sir, your very humble
correspondent,

A LOVER OF PURE AIR AND SHORT SERMONS,
Liverpool, April 6, 1853.

LETTERS ON FAMILIAR SUBJECTS.—No. V.

" WHAT'S IN A NAME ?"

To the EDITOR of the LIVERPOOL STANDARD,

SlR,—Our glorious Will Shakspere puts the above question,
and answers it in a way as if he thought there was nothing in
it. It may be true that a rose by any other name would smell

as sweet, but if we called something of an opposite character
by the same name, we should soon begin to associate our idea
of it with anything but the pleasant truth. It is too much the
practice at the present day to misuse terms, and call things by
names which do not belong to them ; and the defence for this
is, that, so long as the meaning is understood, it matters little
about the term that may be employed. It is the conclusion
thus arrived at I am anxious to dispute, as I feel ccovinced
that much of the erroneous opinion which prevails in the public
mind is owing to the carelessness and disregard of the impor-
tance of names.

There is a political party, formed of the dregs of faction,
which have assumed the style of Liberal; and this phrase has

been conceded to them by those who know their utter hollow-

nets and selfishness, with a total forgetfulness that its effect
has been to betray numbers of unthinking people into the belief
that the policy of the party is identified with the attractive
word which is applied to it. There could not be a more dan-
gerous error, and all owing to carelessness in the use of names.
In matters of religion this unconcern as to the importance of
names is far more apparent, and, at the same time, more likely
to prove injurious in its results. Take, for instance, the words

Catholic and Protestant, which are almost universally mis.

applied. In our creed we speak of the Holy Catholic Church,
and yet by public writers and speakers, and in ordinary con-
versation, we have the term almost exclusively devoted to the
Romish Church, which, perhaps, has the least claim to it of
any. It is part of the policy of Rome to have its claim to being
Catholic believed in; and we have unwittingly favoured the
deception, by conceding to them a name which it was the
object of the Reformation practically to deny. Had the Church
of Rome been what it professes, there had been no need of the
Reformation ; bat it lost its claim to be called Catholic by
teaching distinctive doctrines, and overlaying the pure Catholic
faith of the primitive Church with vain deceits and gross fables.
The true meaning of the word, as applied to Christianity, is
comprised in those doctrines which were common to the whole
Church before it was divided and corrupted ; and, as the Refor-
mation was the restoring of our own branch to the purity of
the primitive faith, the Church of England has a real claim to
the term Catholic which Rome has forfeited. It is, indeed, a
contradiction in terms, to speak of Rome, with her mariolatry,
idolatry, and other peculiar tenets, and use the word Catholic.
To say Roman Catholic, we may as well say particular general,
while the English Church may, with propriety, be termed so,
because she teaches nothing which was not taught and believed
by the Apostles and early Christians. Another error in ordi-
nary use is, to apply the term "the Pope" to the Bishop of
Rome. The believers in his infallibility style him so; he claims
to be at the head of the Christian Church, and as such is the
Pope, as distinguished from all other Popes or Bishops; but
when our Church was reformed, we'denied his supremacy, and,
consequently, his right to the title, but by conceding the latter
we virtually admit the former, although we practically deny it.
Had we been as jealous for the honour of the King of Heaven
as for that of our temporal Sovereign, we should have repu-
diated the phrase; for, be it remembered, it was a political
offence to apply the term King to the banished Stuart, who was
better known as the Pretender. Again, there is the word
Papist, which, though intended to mean a believer in the supre-
macy of the Pope or Bishop of Rome, implies strictly a believer
in episcopacy, and would, therefore, apply to any Churchman.
As Englishmen, the word Romanist should alone be used when
speaking of members of the Church of Rome, and their head
should be styled the Bishop of Rome. The advantage would
be that much of that prestige would be destroyed which too
often attaches in weak minds to the pompous pretensions of
that dangerous heresy.
In the minor affairs of life, perhaps, there is less conse-
quence from the disregard of what is in a name; yet, at the
same time, it tends to a slovenly style of language, and a cor-
ruption of our beautiful mother tongue. How often is it that
misconstruction arises through the speaker believing that his
hearers know what he means, instead of his really expressing
it. It is in effect a substitution of what may be termed slang
for graceful propriety ; and though, from its almost impercep-
tible growth, we cannot see all the mischief, we may form some
idea of what our language may become from the specimens
which are now and then brought to us from across the Atlantic.
Absurdities and quaint conceits may serve to point a jest and
excite a smile; but our youth should beware how they admit
many of our modern writers and speakers to form their models
for our language, or they may find the difficulties of unlearning
almost insuperable, and the rich storehouse of English litera-
ture almost a dead letter.

It would be tedious to particularise the many instances in
which words are misapplied; but I may especially allude to
the assumption of titles by those who have no right to them.
As a loyal subject, I have always considered the Sovereign to
be the fountain of honour, and no distinctions to be valid but
those conferred by her or by her authority; yet how often are
degrees conferred by foreigners recognised here, and even the
mock dignities of voluntary societies. The use of initials after
a person's name often bespeak only his trade or profession,
though by the rules of etiquette they should only be borne as
a distinction. The word chapel is commonly applied to a Dis-
senters' meeting-house, though by law it only belongs to a
building consecrated or licensed by the Bishop for Divine
worship. I have, however, said enough to show that, despite
the authority of Will Shakspere, there should be something in
a name, though modern custom seems about to confound all
distinctions between the real and the pretended.—l am, Sir,
EPHRA.

'ours. &c.,

AN OLD SOLDIER, at the birth of a child at the dig.
gings, instantly seeing his chance, went round with his
hat for the little stranger—the first child born at the dig-
gings ! The value of the hatful was found to amount to
about £3,000.

BLAIR'S GOUT AND RHEUMATIC PILLSeXtraCt of a
letter, written by John Molard Wheeler,- sq., Collector
of Customs, Jamaica, having been harp by his brother,
at Swindon, to Mr. Prout, for publication :—" I know
you have never bad occasion to take Blair's Pills, but let
me emphatically tell you, in mercy to any friend who may
suffer from gout, rheumatic gelit, lumbago, sciatica, rheu-
matism, or any branch of/that widely-allied family, to
recommend their using ,them. In this country they are
of wonderful efficacy ; /ot only am I personally aware of
their powers, but I ,ee my friends and acquaintances re-
ceiving unfailing bpefit from their use. I would nut be
without them On any account. If taken in the early stage
of disease they issipate it altogether : if in a later, they
alleviate pain, nd effect a much speedier cure than by any
other means Rhin my knowledge." Sold by Thomas
Prout, 229 trand, London ; and by all respectable Me-
dicine V dors throughout the kingdom.

YEARS ENDED APRIL 5.
1852. 1853. i Incr. Deer.
£ £ 1 £ £
Customs 18,827,828 18,513,189 .... 314,639
Excise 13,182,698 13,385,493 202,800 ....
Stamps 5,910,526 6,429,025 527,499 ....
Taxes 3,691,226 3.194,271 .... 496,955
Property Tax 5,283,800 5,593,043 309,243 .. .
Post Office 1,051,000 1,045,000 . . 6,000
Crown Lans 190,000 252,000 .62.,000 ... •
Miscellaneous
Imprest, &c 522,686 714,718 192,632 .• . •
Repayments of
Advances.

Total Income .149,591,807 150,512,806 1,738,5931
Deduct decrease

Increase on the Year

T--20,9991.

QUARTERS ENDED APRIL 5.

817,594

1852. 1853. I Incr. 1 Deer.

X £
Customs 4.633,267 4.451,238
El:cise.... ... • 2,078,171 2,105,331 28,517
Stamps....... 1,515,985 1,657,749 141,764
Taxes
Property Tax 2,068,827 2,152,233 83,406
Post Office 259,000 282,000 23,000 ....
Crown Lands BO,OOO 72,000 .... 8,000
Miscellaneous 41,733 19,518 .. .. 22,215
Imprest, &c 18,631 113,558 276,687 395,980
Repayments
Sale of Stores 121,810 I 107,538 80 655 ....
I__l '

182,193

183,572

Total 1nc0me.111,201,080 { 11,244,500 440,593 395,980
Deduct Decrease 395,980 ....

Increase on the Quarter

44,613 I

A. WRITER in the Athenum remarks :—" We may
mistrust teetotalism, as an empirical mode of manufac-
turing a virtue, tending to warp and corrupt the victim
Into superstitions as deleterious as the sin abandoned,—
but we have learned to look more coldly than our ances-
tors did on bottle-wit and philosophy, the sequel to which
is hypochondriacal nausea, and maudlin penitence. The
sot bids as fair to become an obsolete animal in English
society as the amateur prize-fighter."