The Sun.
London, England, 1850-05-27 00:00:00

THE BEHRING'S STRAITS EXPEDITION.
COMMANDER PULLEN'S JOURNAL.

Fort Simpson, Mackenzie River, Oct. 4, 1849.
Sir,—l beg to acquaint you, for their Lordships' in-
formation, of my arrival at this place yesterday morning
with the greater part of my party, having left the re-
mainder with an officer, Mr. Cooper, acting mate, at one
of the Hudson's Bay ports, on the River Peel. I left
the Plover off Wainwright Inlet, on the night of the
25th of July, 1849, in pursuance of orders from Com-
mander Moore. a copy of which I herewith send, toge-
ther with those from Captain Kellett, of her Majesty's
ship Herald. Our voyage has been successful, with
the exception and main object of not finding any traces
of our missing and unfortunate countrymen. Extracts
from my journal of proceedings I can only at this time
send, as an extra express will be sent directly the boats
arrive from the Great Slave Lake, momentarily expected,
and where the party pass the winter, and it will only be
by great exertion that (the express) will save the open
water. A track chart and complete journal I hope to lay
before their Lordships on my arrival in England, leaving
this for York Factory about the middle of June, 1850,
and expected to arrive there the latter end of August.
JOURNAL.

On the night of the 25th of July, off Wainwright's
Inlet, her Majesty's brig Plover, her Majesty's ship
Herald, and schooner yacht Nancy Dawson in company,
I shoved off from the first-named vessel (received three
hearty cheers ; the same from the Herald on passing
her, which we, about to prosecute the search for the gal-
lant Sir J. Franklin and his party, heartily returned),
with four boats—via:, the Herald's decked-boat, called
the Owen, the Plover pinnace, and two whale boats, with
a crew of five-and-twenty, including officers and myself;
seventy days' provisions for each man, and twenty cases
of pemmican.

On Sunday, the 29th, early in the morning, passed
Cape Smyth, and soon after came up to the main pack
of ioe, close into the shore, and stretching westward as
far as the eye could reach. I now thought that our
voyaging was over, and we should have to return to ear
ship. The wind N.E.; hauled to the westward, and ran
along the pack in hopes of finding a passage there, as at
one time I fancied I saw an opening, when I saw the
Nancy Dawson coming towards us. She is commanded
and owned by a Mr. Shedder], formerly a mate in our
service, and from whom I received very valuable as-
sistance and great kindness. Ho seemed determined to
keep by us, follow as long and as far as possible. At
noon I got the latitude on the ice 71 deg. 15 min. 58 sec.,
N., and on looking well round I saw a narrow lane of
open water close in shore, leading to the northward, but
apparently blocked up at its entrance. I made for the
shore again, when we were visited by natives, who gave
us to understand that there was a narrow passage close
in shore, leading up the coast. Here our interpreter
was at fault; he could not talk to these people or make
himself understood a bit better than we could, gaining
all our information by signs, succeeding to admiration,
the Esquimaux being, apparently, so used to that
mode of receiving: and imparting information. As
we got in shore we saw the channel in the bottom, and
et arly centre of a deep bay formed by the pack and
mainland, the western horn being about two miles off
shore. There was heavy ice driving through it, together
with a current of two knots, and wind dead on end
N.N.E., light. It was impossible to get on, so I anchored
in 4 fAthoms, between two bergs at the mouth of the
bay, to wait for an opportunity of getting through; and
as the ice was driving fast down on us, weighed and
made fast to the western berg, under its lee.
The next morning the yacht took a berth alongside of
us, mooring with two ice anchors. During the night of the
30th, as well as all day, it blew hard from the N.N.E.,
and on the morning of the 31st not quite so much wind,
but still heavy ice driving down the channel, our friendly
berg parted and set all adrift, surrounded by heavy floes
and drift ice. Tho boats were aeon again fast under
the lea of the in-shore or eastern berg, where the Daw-
son again took up her berth, working up, threading her
way through the drift ice, and against a strong current,
in gallant style. Towards the evening the wind began
to moderate, and at 6.30 P.M. sent the two whale boats
to pull up close in shore, while the large ones turned up
with a moderate breeze until nine, when it had hauled so
much to the westward, that we stood along shore, and
took our small craft in tow. As we advanced we saw many
natives, who tried every inducement to get us to land—
dancing, shouting, and following us till we came to the
southern part of the low narrow spit terminating to the
northward iu Point Barrow, and which point we were in
hopes of reaching by twelve o'clock. We were disap-
pointed, for at eleven, P.M., were stopped by an immense
floe effectually blocking up the channel, so we hauled
close in to the shore, under a projecting point of ice
lying on the beach and secured, when we were visited
by many natives, quite friendly, and apparently delighted
to see us, offering their furs for trifling pieces of tobacco,
and helping us in various ways. It was light all night,
but rather cold, the thermometer standing at 33.
The next morning the ice had driven offshore a little,
and allowed us to get on, partly under sail and partly
tracking, in which the natives readily took a share, when
at eleven, A.m., we were effectually stopped, the ice from
the shore to the main pack quite set fast, and no chan-
cel as far as the eye could reach. Hauled close in un-
der the ice of a projecting point from the beach, and
made fast. The wind was moderate from the N.E. off
shore, so it might clear a passage for us; but no, it was
too heavy, although mach of it was shore ice, from its
colour. Our latitude at noon was 71 deg. 20 min. 30
sec. N. In the afternoon hauled close up to the ice, and

tried to force a passage, but it was useless, many parts
of it aground in five fathoms water, but went away
fast. In the evening I landed amongst the natives,
and was most graciously received by rubbing noses ;
they dancing and shouting to each other with
stentorian lungs, and showing us round their
camps with evident satisfaction. At one in par-
ticular, the chief apparently, assembled all his people,
and entertained us for an hour with dancing, accompa-
nied with singing, and music on a sort of tamisorine—a
thin skin (intestine of the seal) well stretched on a cir-
cular frame of wood, and beat against a stick. I gave
them beads, tobacco, and snuff, winding up with a scram-
ble, at which they wore as much pleased as our men, for
it was rather a ridiculous sight, so many (women and
all) wrapped up in furs, rolling about on the ground to-
gether. We parted good friends, many following us to
the boats, where I dressed the hand of one man who had
received a wound in it while seal hunting. I am sure
it never got such a washing before as I gave it.
At 11 this night the wind hauled to the south-east;
shortly after the ice began to break, when I heard the
booming of a heavy gun, which I returned with a small
3-pounder we had in the bows of the Owen, and pulled
down the coast in hopes of seeing the Plover. It was
foggy at the time, but on its breaking away a little I
discovered the Nancy Dawson most perseveringly follow-
ing us up. I went on board and tried to persuade Mr.
Shedden to return south, as his vessel was quite unfit to
encounter the ice. But no; he was determined to follow
us as far as he possibly could with a chance of getting
back. At 12 the ice was driving northward, and a
large floe coming up from the south; the schooner then
at anchor; it drove her close in shore, but not on the
ground, as it was checked by projecting points from
the beach. As she was not in any danger I left her, re-
turning to my boats, with a current setting to the north-
ward, at the rate of one and a half knots an hour; when,
at 5.30 A.M., seeing our obstruction in full move, we made
sail after it, threading our way through the loose pieces
towards Point Barrow, and at seven rounded it, and
came to in two fathoms water, 100 feet off shore, with
unmingled feelings of delight, and silent thanks of gra-
titude to that merciful Providence who had conducted us
thus far in safety, and with a prayer for 'a continuance
of His help on our voyage. I now had to consider and
determine on my future proceedings. It did not take
me lone; for with the fine open sea to the eastward I
concluded there could be little difficulty in reaching the
Afackenzie, and resolved to make a bold push. I landed
among a large concourse of natives, recognising many of
our former friends. Got observations for time, dip, and
variation; a large pole up, with directions on it for find-
ing buried information of our movements, and that there
were two ships in the Arctic Seas—one to winter either
at Kotzebue or Port Clarence. Purchased a biadar;
gave the natives a few trinkets and tobacco, with which
they were highly delighted; when at eleven o'clock that
night we were all ready for a move, and the yacht a mitt-
south of the point driving up with the ice. Shortly after
Mr. Shedden came on board, having walked up the coast
landing two miles below, to see us—to see the last of us.
lii Wilt CAM 10911 *IOU We got under Weigh at

half-past eleven of the night of the 2d of August, part-
ing with mutual good wishes for success. I hope and
trust he got clear and away to the southward without any
difficulty.
We made sail to the eastward with alight northerly air
and easterly set, threading our way through louse ice
until two o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d, when we an-
chored in five feet water, 200 feet from the shores of a
low and sandy spit. in lat 71.15 N., and long. 155. 37 W.
It was now blowing hard from the south, and kept us
here until the night of the 4th ; when the weather mo-
derating, and our three boats loaded, having given
them names—the first whaler Louisa ; second, Logan;
and, biadar, Supply—l gave Mr. Martin directions to
return to Refuge Inlet with the large boats, and there
wait as long as he considered it prudent ; and on no
account to run the risk of being caught by the ice, or
north of Icy Cape, after the first week of Septem-
ber, but on the first indication of it to get away to the
southward and rejoin the ship, finding her at either the
places mentioned in Commander Moore's orders. Re-
fuge Inlet was examined coming up the coast, but found
it not available for the large boat.. My crews con-
sisted of 11 men (three of them petty officers), John
Abernethy, acting quartermaster ice ; Mr. Hooper
acting mate, and myself, 14 in number.
In my orders I was directed to take Mr. Martin ; but
as Mr. Hooper was the magnetic observer I made the
change ; particularly as Commander Moore had left it
entirely to myself on speaking to him about it. The
interpreter, also, I did not bring on, as up to Point
Barrow I found him useless ; he did not understand
the natives—in fact, none of the northern tribes ; and
told us so after starting. Again, when I was first going
to leave this night I found him very ill ; I waited for an
hour and no improvement. I resolved not delaying
any longer, and lose the light wind which was now
blowing from the south ; so at 11.45 T.M. shoved off
with three hearty cheers from those we left behind us,
and who would most gladly have come on to share our
danger and our difficulty. Mr. Martin, in particular,
was much cut up, greatly disappointed at not taking the
larger boats further on; but I did not like to run the
risk. I considered we had now fully 90 days' provision,
besides 20 casks of pemmican. Our little craft were
certainly very deep; but we had light hearts, and every
hope of success in reaching our destination. We kept
close in shore, with wind from S.S.W., a moderate
breeze.

At 11.30 A.X. passed Point Christie, crossed Deese In-
let, and 2.50 P.M. landed on a low point in Fatigue Bay
for dinner. As the wind was blowing fresh, although fa-
vourable, I remained hero till 5 p.m.; for our heavily
laden boats were in no condition to stand heavy sea; but
by that time it was a little more moderate, so we shoved
off, passed Boat Extreme, Cape Governor Simpson, and
were getting well across Smith's Bay with an increasing
breeze, now from the westward, and sea getting up, that
we tried to keep closer in shore; but the water so shoal,
were obliged to haul off again. When at seven the
Logan, with Supply in tow, made a signal of distress ;
shortened sail, and pulled towards them, and found the
latter shipping a great deal of water, from being so deep.
Took some of the stores out of her, and I, with the
Louisa, took her in 'tow. This was almost out of the
frying•pan into the fire, as the extra weight in the
whalers rendered their situation ticklish; but there was
no help for it, and we all kept close together, when at
nine P.M. we were obliged to land on a dead lee shore,
with the sea breaching right over us, in the eastern part
of Smith's Bay. Hauled the boats up, and unloaded.
Found all our bread wet, with the exception of 1201bs.
in a cask, and about 1001bs of flour ; the preserved po-
tatoes saturated, with all our small stock of clothing in
a like condition. We camped in low boggy situations,
the best we could find, and made the most of it.

The next morning, the 6th, still blowing and raining;
built a sort of o►en, and commenced drying our bread,
which kept us at work all day, and the watch all night,
and then only imperfectly done, for it took up more time
than I was willing to spare, particularly as in the e►en-
ing the wind was falling and the sea going down. Since
leaving the large boats we ha►e not seen much ice, and
none to the north; as far as the eye can reach it is clear
open sea. Crossing Smith's Bay we could see the pack
from four to fi►e miles distant.

On the morning of the 7th, the weather was almost
calm; we launched our boats and loaded them; sorry to
find that a great quantity of our bread is still wet, which
we were likely to lose, as well as six tins of preserved
potatoes. At 11 we shoved off, the Logan taking the
lead, the Louisa (my boat) with Supply in tow; pulled
up the eastern shores of the bay close to; rounded Point
Drew, and landed a few miles east of it; got our dinners
and the dip, and at three moved on again, winding our
way among drift ice, with wind light from the eastward.
At 8.30 we landed for the night, by the deer•pound and
salt creek of Simpson, with wind from south-east.
(To be continued.)