The Sun.
London, England, 1858-09-11 00:00:00

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

The news from Fraser's River and other places
in that vieinity,by the City of Washington, reports
the miners still waiting for the waters to fall. The
river was falling slowly, and in the course of the
next four weeks it was probable that the submerged
bars in the vicinity of Forts Hope and Yale could

be worked.
The San Francisco Bulletin of Aug. 4 thus re
ports on the general situation of affairs :
" The news received on Sunday from the Fraser
River mining region is, in our opinion., more favor
able than any that has reached us for some -time
past. In the first place, it now is certain that there
is no actual suffering
on frome
streams for the the want of provwaters
isions
among those waiting he
to fall, as was supposed to be the case a week or two
ago. Though many articles of comfort were lacking,
the prime necessaries of life—meat, bread, and coffee
—were possessed in sufficient quantities bythe miners
to prevent suffering from famine. And though the
Hudson's Bay Company have not formally opened the
country to free trade, they permit persons going up
the rivers to take an unrestricted quantity of pro-
visions, ostensibly for their own use, but really-, in
many instances, to sell to the miners encamped on
the banks, who may need them. Thus all fears of
a serious famine are dispelled. There seems to be
no doubt, also, about the fact that Fraser River is
now falling for the season. The banks of snow in
the mountains which supplied the streams, and
kept them full, seem now pretty nigh exhausted.
This certainly was the conviction of the persons
Waiting on the river bank. The consequence was,
that all seemed to be in good spirits, and very san-
guine of being able to get to work, on the now sub-
merged bars, in the course of five or six weeks at
farthest. When this should take place, none there
appeared to doubt that large amounts of treasure '
would be obtained—enough to pay for the toil
and patience that have been expended. We
add our hopes to their expectations. It will
_require many an ounce of the precious metal to
square the account which is now heavily against
Fraser River. Six weeks' time will give us some
insight into the probability -of the " solvency" of
the new mining region. The most favourable fea-
ture of the news, however, we have not yet alluded
to. • We mean the discovery of a practicable route
to tho head waters of Fraser's River, over which
supplies of provisions can be easily conveyed as soon
as a trail has been opened. All the facts about that
region prove the existence of rich gold fields in
New Caledonia. The obstacle heretofore present-
ing itself, and which to manyappeared insurmount-
able, was the transportation over the rugged and
precipitous mountain ranges of supplies of provi-
sions to maintain the miners while engaged in
prospecting or working the mines. The Middle
Fraser, owing, to falls and rapids, is perfectly un-
navigable, and no pack animals can crawl up the
precipitous sides of the mountains, or through the
dense forests, that obstructed every known route.
The most hardy hunters and mountaineers could
succeed in carrying only a very light pack over
this rugged road, and thus could provide them-
selves against the attacks of famine but for a
few days. It then seemed impossible that any
important mining or prospecting operations could
be carried on m that region, and the belief
became general that the crowd of adventurers would
have to limit themselves to the narrow confines of
the river bars between the principal rapids, and
wait patiently for the waters to fall. Just at this
time the important discovery is made of a new and
practicable route to the region above, by way of
Harrison and Lillooet rivers and lakes, and easy.
trails. This discovery, therefore, would seem to re-
move the chief difficulty in the way of the success
of this mining country, and its importance cannot
be' overstated. We gave yesterday a full account of
this route, together with a map, by whichthe reader
could comprehend at a glance the nature of the
country it passed through. A steamer, the Umatilla,
had made the pioneer trip to the mouth of the
Lillooet River, and Governor Douglas had expressed
his belief that a good waggon road could easily be
constructed from thence to a point on the head-
waters of Fraser's River, about 70 miles above the
junction of Thompson River. The Hudson's Bay
Company have declared their intention of opening
this trail at once, and, it was stated, were prepared
to spend, at present, 6,000 dols. on it. The Governor
had said publicly that this would soon be the only
way travelled to reach the Upper Fraser, and ad-
vised all going to take it. About the existence of
gold in this region all the credible accounts agree.
Some people declare that the whole thing is a
" humbug, it is true ; but they arc not those who
have had opportunities to become well acquainted
with the country. This fact constantly appears,
that the better a man seems acquainted with that
region, the more sanguine he is in regard to the
existence of gold there. Hear what Governor
Douglas says, who is in possession of more facilities
of information than any other man in the country.
In a recent speech to the people at Victoria he said
—' This I will tell you, as my own settled opinion,
that I think the country is full of gold, and that
east, and north, and south of Fraser River there
is a gold field of incalculable value and ex-
tent. I have told our glorious Queen so, and
I now tell you so.' Nobody can now doubt as to
Governor Douglas's opinion of the mines ; and
it, would certainly seem that no other person in
the country is as well able to form a correct
idea as he. The next three months will, however,
tell the true story. Analysing the evidence
by any rules known or practised, we must come to
the conclusion that there are rich gold fields in New
Caledonia. We have to wait for the practical con-
firmation or overthrow of this conclusion."
The Alta California, which has a special corres-
pondent at Fraser River, publishes a letter contain-
ing much information of a character likely to be
useful to intending emigrants. The correspondent
writes :

" Fraser River, Monday, July 10, 1858.
" Mr. Walker, the factor, at this post, gives me
many interesting items concerning the Indians,
climate, river, &c. He is by birth a Scotchman,
but has been many Years in the employ of the com-
pany, and is one of their most trusted employes.
He is married to an Indian woman, by whom he
has two children, and from his position and rela-
tionship to them, exercises great control over them.
" From the mouth of Fraser River to the forks of
Thompson, there is a population of 10,000, known
as the Langley or Tump-si-en Indians, who lead a
careless life, andrsubsist upon salmon, game, and
berries. The men are intelligent smart-looking
fellows, walking about among white men wit!i an
air of equality, curiously examining all the new in-
ventions, often seizing upon a thing that pleases
them, and declaring their right to it. They are
said to be brave but very vindictive. Among them
are many good hunters, and some good traders, but
they are naturally dishonest. The company do not
depend upon them, though they buy all the furs
they bring in. The market for their skins has
always been a great resource for them. The com-
pany, however, show them little favour, often
punishing delinquents with great severity. An In-
dian trader has seldom proved faithful for more
than one season. It is not in their nature to be
honest. When Mr. W. came here, the company
told him to be very cautious, and not to take notice
of slight offences ; for in a long series of years they
have been unable to reform the Indian character.
There were many times when their insolence
made him fearful, but as he learned the lan-
guage he became more daring- ; and, at last, upon
the commission of a grave offence, he seized the
delinquent and gave him such a flogging, that he
carried the marks of it for a year. Some base fel-
lows, more brave than wise, took up the quarrel,
and dared the factor to punish them, at the same
time flourishing their weapons and talking grandly
—but they were much astonished and iniliated
at being instantly seized and most unmercifully
beaten, their cries and yells only increasing the
punishment. Since this summary punishment they
have held the factor in peculiar awe, and have been
very obedient. Now, whenever punishment is in-
flicted, it is done in presence of the family and
friends of the criminal, and the mortification made
as severe as possible. The Indians are Catholics, by
profession, but their faith is very weak. They know
there is a God, and they worship the Cross. They
never have religious service, except when the priest
comes, which is seldom, none having appeared
among them since 1856. They are married in early
childhood ; but before arriving at majority the mar-
riages are sometimes broken off by differences be-
tween families. The wives are exemplary, and as
true as the average of other women. Some of the
young women are sprightly and very pretty, but
are not all celebrated for chastity. The men are al-
ways jealous; they do
in not allow their wives to
speak to a man except their presence. The wo-
men do all the drudgery as in other savage nations.
There is no chief among them. The oldest men
having the largest family, are the chiefest,.g but
they-
have no authority. They are held in i
for their age and family, and are appliiellil :i
torel
difficulties arise. The Hudson Bay Company is
respect
chief, and they obey no other. They have but one
law, and that is blood for blood. Should one Indian
kill another, and fly, the friends of the dead do not
follow—the friend. of the murderer suffers, where-
ever they meet him. They never forgive injuries.
They lead a very senseless life, and have no know-
ledge of the years nor of their own ages. When one
dies he is instantly rolled up in his mat, and car-
ried out of the. house-. After spending a night in
weeping and howling, seated around the corpse, the

body is taken to the ishnd, graveyard, in the river,
and placed in a. box be .ilt c,f splint sticks, and raised
a few feet from the g• :oviid. They have no idea of
the future, except 1-laat heaven is above and hell
below. There is ri, 3 -devil, no evil spirits. Their
nice from God. Many of them
g, and laugh when God, heaven,
Pbhueelnlilie,slot n il
rulicliaftutUtshraeir life are mentioned. They are vain,
c'agantly when they have money.
;lack coats, &c., are common among
andt
e 'Whitem . dress
Theshirts, Is
Indians along Fraser River, to the head
of the big 'eanon, all speak the same language, and
are supposed to be oiie tribe. Above the canon the
Cote: ns reside, with whom the Langleys are always
at war. They live chiefly on salmon, which are
caught in great quantities at this season, and dried,
then placed for preservation in a box, called pau.-
go-ee, lashed into thi. branches of tall trees. 'When
the berries, and the summer supply of food is gone,
they resort to ,those depots, and live upon fish,
through the long whiter. The habits of some of
them are changin, now. We often see them with
loaves of bread, pie or cake, bought at the bakery.
They sustain a bad character among the miners,
whose experience proves them to be treacherous,
thievish liars, and always ready to break an engage-
ment when they can do so in safety. At present
they have no fear of punishment ; but the patience
lof the Bostons is nearly exhausted. I have heard
threats of a war of extermination. They are use-
ful, however ; for it is not considered safe to navi-
gate the river without one Indian pilot.
" Mr. 'Walker gives me some particulars concern-
ing the climate, which will be interesting at this
time. The cold is not so severe nor sit long con-
tinued as might be supposed from the high latitude
and mountainous features of the country. Snow
never remains long upon the ground in the valley,
though it at times falls to the depth of three andfive
feet. In winter the mountains are covered with
snow close down and the air is chilly. The climate
is very variable, and the changes sudden, violent,
and of the most disagreeable character. A
strong wind blows in the afternoon, raising
clouds of dust. At this time the mornings
and sonic of the evenings are delightful.
We rise so early, and the daylight lingers so
long, that we often fall asleep before night. The
skies, except an occasional shower, are now cloud-
less. The moon is growing, and the bright stars
of lingering twilight make ahnost a perpetual day.
It is not pleasant to look upon the contrast between
man and nature now. The one is bright and cheer-
ful, and inviting to labour • the other lying listless,
bound hand and foot. These precious days a thorn
—all wasted—the hopes of each are becoming an
illusion, a vanity, a vexation of spirit—picks,
shovels, and rockers lying idle—and flour, pork,
and beans, being exhausted.
" In May and June there is considerable rain at
intervals. As the sun gets north and warm, the
snows melt, and the rivers, which have been swell-
ing gradually, reach their height about the 20th
of July, when the water begins slowly to abate,
and continues going down until it is at its lowest
stage in January. At that time the river at Fort
Hope is not more than 60 yards wide. It never
freezes in the upper river : the current is too rapid.
At Fort Langley, above and below, where the
-water is sluggish, it always freezes hard. Through
August and September it is pleasant, and many
varieties of berries ripen in the woods—occasionally
rain falls. In October commences the wet season
—heavy, cold, drizzling rains, accompanied with
wind. The sun becomes obscure, and a fire
is needed in the evening. November continues the
same, the sun almost constantly obscured by heavy
fogs and clouds. The tops of the mountains are
never seen for the mists that envelop them ; and
these fogs and clouds enveloping the snow are
supposed materially to modify the temperature. It
is time now for the Indians to retire into their
winter house, where they remain with blazing fires
until they are forced out to climb the trees, and
open the pau-go-eel for salmon.
It is not until the middle of December that grim
winter shows his hoary locks, ' and binds in icy
fetters fast' all this mountain world. Then the
cold becomes intense, requiring furs and big warm
fires. The river becomes choked with drift ice,
broken, from the lakes above, and sent down on
the current. In sluggish places this ice forms a
barrier resembling the floe described by Arctic
explorers, so densely packed that it may be crossed
in safety. This extreme cold, which freezes up all
active out-door operations, continues but a short
time. In 1857- this cold continued 25 days, and the
river was entirely blocked with ice. In 1858 the
frost continued only 14 days, and did not arrive
until Ist February. January was chilly, but no
frost ; but from October to February the sun was
scarcely visible through the fogs and clouds, and
the cool drizzling rains were frequent. In March
and April the snows melt, and the river rises slowly,
but recedes again in May, -when it again rises, and
reaches its highest point in June and July.
Except the cold snap which follows the rains and
fogs of October, November, and December, there is
no frost in the river valley, but there are many days
so uncomfortable that it would require a very de-
termined man to brave them. Daylight breaks at
this place at seven in the morning, and it is dark at
five, and there are not more than seven working
hours in the short days. From the time the river
begins to fall until it rises and covers the bars is
about nine months, and of those nine there are at
least seven and a half of working days, and those
days not averaging more than eight hours in
length. lam told that at low water there arc bars
making out into the river from all points, and
stretching for long distances; and it is from these
bars that all the people who are waiting intend
to pay themselves for their delays, fatigues, and
anxieties. Will they be able to do it? Everybody
says yes ; and there is room enough for all, who
may come and get rich. Does ' everybody' speak
the truth? Qui riera terra.
" Mu.squitoes and small gnats swarm here and
are very annoying, and I have been poisoned fre-
quently by the bite of a black ant. Flies are
abundant. Bugs are scarce. There are but few
birds ; this surprises me when I look at the profu-
sion of berries and the dense woods. I have not
seen a squirrel nor any other wild animal; not even
a snake. In the Fort are two cats, and the Indians
have a dog which must be a cross with a fox. Igo
out into the mountains and get lost in the thickets
—the stillness almost alarms me. There is no sound
except the heavy, mournful sighing of the wind
through the trees. The heavens are above and the
forest around. There is grandeur and magnificence
in it all ; but in the feeling of awe which the silence
imposes, one longs for a voice, if it were only a
bird's, to break the spell that steals over the senses.
" Ten miles below Fort Langley, Pitt River emp-
ties into Fraser from the north. Mr. Lance
Nightingale, who has prospected many hundreds of
miles on these rivers, and who gives a glowing ac-
count of all he has seen, and who has the utmost
confidence in every river he has visited, except
Thompson, made a trip up Pitt River in the spring.
After ascending the river 15 miles he came to a
chain of lakes 60 miles long, with water clear and
deep, surrounded by high snowy mountains. Above
the lakes the river is very rapid, and he was only
able to ascend ten miles in his canoe. Found gold
and black sand everywhere. The Indians were
friendly, but very shy of whites. The 'chief told
him no white men had ever been there, and there
were no traces of them to be found. There was
plenty of quartz, and the country had the appear-
ance of barrenness, which indicates the gold region.
The party was not able to prospect much. The
chief, on seeing a quartz specimen, said there was
plenty of the same further up the river, and offered
to point out the place.
" A party of twenty men came in from Thomp-
son River. They are particularly down on the
country. They don't believe.there is gold there,
and acivise all persons to avoid the region of the
fort for its inhospitality and barrenness. Fresh
beef is the only article to be had in abundance, but
white men cannot live on fresh beef alone. They
state that most travellers turn aside now, and go
up Fraser's, towards the sources of which rumour
clothes the earth with shining particles. It is far
up, but every one hopes to reach it, and all are
satisfied. if there is only gold J they can bear the
wheianrtetrh'semeoslad; athnlyedywork through the short days that
scarcely flash da liftloipteutopobne
ablethe to
orozen make euasretohf.
e
long, twilight. tofsurprises me, the confidence withtli
InwleinichbamveeniAt
ianlktered eiondrueigiinogoshfaartd. .asbhoire.wTbleireeytireyv
why cannot they do the same ? Perhaps taheesy —c
n n
propose to go, and lived to tell them t 1
for the human will is a powerful engine, and aaha d;
performed performed wonders. Some wonderful develop-
ment i in the form of human endurance arc doubt-
less about to be made known.
"Mr. J. Waugh, of Victoria, has a claim upon
Sailor's Bar, which he took up in April. The river
was low, and he was able to work after making a
rocker out of a pine tree with an axe and a ja-
knife.
He has been
ou able to work but seven weeks
4
since he went
river,heesi; the last 19 of which
I have just seen put into land in that time he
u
shows as a resultpof.° the-
who has just Purchased somee nine pofun-IN Idrs.
from
11 ktehre,
same source, and affirms the truthof his story.
"Patsy, Banta, and several more of these unamiable
characters, who left San Francisco, and have con-
gregated on this river, were in town yesterday,
drunk and quarrelsome. They were gambling 'll
the night previous, and created much disturbance
by shooting off pistols and threatened violence.
They broke up the crockery in several places, gnd
wound up with a general row in M'Kenzie's cabin,
well
know
they
where they whipped Mac severely, .and were them-
selves severely cut and
This
se
morning
wruie very sad and gentle.
bruised.
They
are
here, but the people would rather they would leave