The Sun.
London, England, 1867-07-05 00:00:00

FASHIONS FDR JULY.

(From Le Follet.)
As a very favourite costume of the present sea-
son, we must mention the thin white dresses worn
over skirts of coloured silk. Nothing can be more
elegant, as the coloured lining breaks the monotony
of the white without detracting from its charm.
For very young ladies, the under-skirt is made
generally of batiste, in which case tho skirt should
be lightly trimmed—an insertion of black or white
lace is quite sufficient ; the same trimming is placed
on the high body, in such a manner as to resemble
a low square body with a high guimpe. This
toilette a l'ltalienne is very pretty, and need not be
at all expensive.

A very- elegant costume was made with two skirts
of embroidered muslin over a skirt of maize silk, the
upper skirt raised by a scarf of maize silk. A small
jacket of muslin with manches religious°, the whole
trimmed with a rich guipure.
Another iu the same style, worn for slight
mourning, was of white muslin over black silk, the
front trimmed with three rows of papillon bows of
black ribbon, surrounded with rosettes of
guipure,
forming the tablier.
Also, for half mourning, a peplum of white mus-
lin over a skirt of black silk, trimmed all round
the bottom with rosettes of white guipure and
centres of black silk. The sash, of white muslin
over black, was edged with guipure. The skirts
are also trimmed with bouillonnes from the waist
the whole length of the skirt; these arc placed
sometimes simply up each breadth, with a narrow
lace each side, or the same trimming may be so
placed as to form a train ; in each case, however,
the bouilonne should be lined with a ribbon the
same colour as the under skirt.
For more useful dresses batiste is much used,
trimmed either with broiderie russe
or briaht-
coloured braid. The small jackets are made to
match.
A very elegant dress of silver-grey silk was raised
at each side under an olive-leaf made of bronzed
silver. Under-skirt of the same, simply trimmed
round the edge with a bouillon of the same
coloured satin. Half high body, with plain long
sleeves. This charming toilette was completed by
a mantelet " Marie Antoinette," forming a small
pointed fichu at the back, crossing in front with
ends falling over the skirt ; this mantelet was
trimmed all round with a bouillon of the same
coloured satin. The bonnet was of fancy straw
trimmed with olive-leaves to match those on the
dress, and a scarf of grey tulle tied at the back.
A very pretty dress was made of white chaly over
a blue silk skirt, raised at each side by a blue silk
scarf drawing all the plaits quite to the back.
Straight jacket of chaly, without sleeves,
completed
by a high body of blue silk, with plain sleeves.
Tunic of Chambery gauze with wide stripes, mauve
and white, trimmed with a flounce of rich lace.
Under-skirt of mauve poult de soie, trimmed at the
bottom with a plaited flounce of Chambery gauze
edged with lace. Paletot to match, with Giecque
sleeves, and long tight sleeves of mauve silk. Fancy
straw bonnet, trimmed with a bouillonne of mauve
tulle, with daisies set in so as not to touch each other.
Short dress of poil de chevre, white ground, with
fine lines of blue cut in scallops, which are bound
with blue silk, and edged with guipure. Under-skirt
of blue silk, trimmed with straps of guipure put on
crossways, and finished by a band of the same along
each end. Paletot without sleeves, cut in scallops
to match the dress, and bound with blue silk edged
with guipure. Chemisette of guipure, with long
sleeves, made of alternate rows of guipure and blue
ribbon. Round bonnet of rice straw, trimmed with
a bouquet of seringa and honeysuckle, and two long
guides of blue velvet.
Brochees silks are worn, but embroidered silks
are more in favour, either in black embroidery on
coloured grounds, or coloured embroidery on black
silk. For the robe " Princesse," each breadth should
be embroidered in a separate pattern ; but this is of
necessity a very expensive style of dress, and will be
confined to the few. Black sashes are extremely
' fashionable, and are worn with any summer dresses ;
even with those of plain white muslin.
Tulle is much used as trimming for toilettes de
The following is a model that may serve very well
for slight mourning. Short skirt of silver-grey
poult de soie over one of violet silk, trimmed all
round at equal distances with large rosettes of tulle
of both colours, one on the other, with amethyst
buttons in the centre. The casaque very short in
front, fitting to the figure, ending at the back in
two small jacket ends surmounted by a rosette of
tulle. Faucher' of white tulle, trimmed with white
lilac and brides of tulle.
Jupe fourreau of blue silk, open at the side over
a skirt of white alpaca. Small basquine of blue
silk, very short, and ending with a short skirt
behind under a scarf of blue silk tied at the
back. Short tunic, with high body of black silk
striped with gold colour, raised at the sides over a
skirt to match, which is trimmed with a plaiting of
plain silk worked with jet. The tunic is open up the
front, and laced together with a plait of black and
gold, fixed at each sic',3 under bows of the same and
aiguillettes of jet. The sleeves are laced up the back
of the arm iu the same manner.
As chapeaux de vile, the " Fanchon" and the
" Du Barry," with scarf of tulle or barbed of lace,
are much worn. The Spanish mantilla is also gain-
ing favour, and seems likely to be very generally

worn. They are of different sizes, some forming only
a small mantelet, and crossing in front like a fichu ;
whilst others are quite large, enveloping the whole
figure. One was arranged so as to form a hood,
with a bandeau of jet across the forehead and bou-
quet of cherries over the left temple ; another,
worked all over with jet, was raised by a bandeau
of gold and white camellia ; whilst a third, still more
Andalusian, was simply raised by a rose at the side,
and fastened over the chest with another.
A " Fan'2hon" of white straw was trimmed with
a scarf of green tulle at the back, draped across the
chignon, and forming long barbes over the narrow
strings of green ribbon ; the front trimmed with a
delicate wreath of jessamine reaching on to the
strings.

Round bonnet of black crinoline, trimmed with a
jet fringe ; at the side a bouquet of roses with green
leaves, and others of jet. Long guides of black
velvet.

The chapeau mouche of white tulle, worked with
crystal and edged with white satin; flies of diffe-
rent colours placed on the front, and on the bow of
white satin ribbon placed at the side. Brides of
tulle edged with satin.

The " Marie Louise" of black straw ; on the
summit a flat baw of blue satin, with coquilles of
the same satin in front, with guides of the same.
Brides of black lace, and small bouquets of ane-
mones with gold centres placed across the front.
The " Parisien" is also much worn, made of crape
--white, blue, pink, maize, or lilac. It is of the form
fanchon ; the crape is bouillonne with tulle of the
same colour, and the front is trimmed with small
flowers, such as lilies of the.valley, daisies, myosotis,
wild roses, &c., placed on the crape and covered
with tulle. The part of the bonnet resting on the
chignon is trimmed with a bow of narrow ribbon
the same colour as the crape, and a voilette of tulle
illusion.

A very pretty fringe, formed of small balls or
beads of silk the same colour as the trimming, is
much used instead of those of crystal or jet, and
makes a pleasing change.